WWB MAGAZINE DECEMBER ISSUE 260 by fashion buyers Ltd

WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk DECEMBER 2016/ ISSUE 260/ Â£6.95

THE BIG CHILL WRAP UP WARM The leading outerwear brands for every budget SHOW TIME The trade shows not to miss for a/w 17 ONE STEP AHEAD The success story behind Italian footwear brand Manas

C A N A D A

CELEBRATING 40 YEARS OF ELEGANACE FALL - WINTER 2017 SHOWING: Monday 23rd January Friday 17th February 2017 MODA, 19th - 21st February 2017, Stand Q67 Apt Collections Ltd - Nigel and Claudia Hughes T: 00 44 207 580 3202 E: nigel@aptcollections.ltd.uk / claudia@aptcollections.ltd.uk

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NEW YEAR’S RESOLUTIONS

WWB quizzes industry players about their plans for 2017

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EXHIBITION CALENDAR

A summary of the shows not to miss for a/w 17

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LONDON CALLING

A sneak peek at Scoop’s next edition

48/ M O D A A first look at what’s in-store at the Birmingham show

51/ P A N O R A M A

The latest news from the Berlin exhibition

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TOP DRAWER

WWB previews the gift, homeware and accessory show

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EDITOR’S COMMENT

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TALKING POINT

Your views on the issues shaping the industry

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RETAIL FORUM

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E-TAIL CLINIC

Expert e-commerce advice

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THE LAST WORD

With Jeff Abrams, founder of LA label Rails

16/ I N T E R V I E W With Anita Tillmann, co-owner and founder of Premium Berlin

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STYLE FILE

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VELVET OVERGROUND

The key pieces channelling this season’s hottest trend.

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FASHION RADAR

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STEPPING UP

How Manas Footwear went from artisan workshop to global brand

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DRESSED TO CHILL

Fashion focus on outerwear brands

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NET GAINS

Bricks and mortar vs e-commerce competition under the spotlight

FRONT COVER: RINO & PELLE

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Editor Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Contributors Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Writer Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com Design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com

Editor’s comment Isabella Griffiths

Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com Sales manager Sam Chambers sam@ras-publishing.com Editorial director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com Portfolio director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie.parker@ite-exhibitions.com Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com Reprographics & printing ImageData Group 01482 652323

WWB is published 9 times per year by ITE Moda Ltd The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2016 WWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither ITE Moda Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

So, Christmas trading is now in full swing, once again unofficially launched by the shopping extravaganza that is Black Friday and Cyber Monday, which took place at the end of last month and yet again set off a discounting frenzy across both online and high street retailers. No longer are Black Friday and Cyber Monday limited to just those days; year on year the whole event increases in both duration and scale, with this year spanning from 21 to 28 November. According to first official trading updates, Black Friday purchases were up by 13.9 per cent on last year, with consumers staying up into the small hours to take advantage of deals that began at midnight. Shoppers also cashed in on the deals before work or straight after, with peak times online between 7am and 9am and 6pm to 9pm. While this may be good news for consumers, for retailers it causes quite a headache. With no real consensus or code of conduct on when to start discounting and to what degree, many stores were already trading at heavily reduced prices prior to the Black Friday period to secure their share of the consumer spend and get ahead of the competition. Furthermore, this has also very much created a mentality where no one is going to ever be prepared to pay full price on anything prior to Christmas, as shoppers are now savvy to the heavy discounting and know that they can most likely get a bargain at some point. This puts a huge amount of pressure on

indies in particular, and it was no different this year. I have spoken to a number of indies over the last few weeks, with some having stood firm on discounting and determined not to launch into early reductions – out of principle as well as confidence in their stance that their customers know they are paying a good and fair price for their products. Some also said that they simply cannot afford to compete on such a discount level, which is why they won’t even try and attempt it. And then there were some indies who have had their own Black Friday deals and events on, and who believe that you have to join in with something or lose out entirely. Both points of view are completely understandable and valid, and there is no right or wrong policy here. But it just goes to show how pressurised the sales period – which once was the most crucial but also the most lucrative – has become, and how tough it is to compete, whatever the size of your business. By the time this issue comes through your post box, there will be just under three weeks of Christmas trading left, and whichever way you are luring in customers – whether that’s with discounting, in-store events, loyalty offers or simply on the merit of the strength of your products and brands – I wish you all the best for the remainder and a very merry Christmas indeed. I will see you in 2017, when we’re kicking off a/w 17 with a bang.

WWB is a fashion business publication produced by ITE Moda Ltd. Other titles include MWB and CWB. ITE Moda Ltd is an ITE Group PLC company

FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK OR EMAIL ISABELLA@RAS-PUBLISHING.CO.UK FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @WWBMAGAZINE, FACEBOOK WWB MAGAZINE, INSTAGRAM WWBMAGAZINE AND PINTEREST WWBMAGAZINE

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OVER HALF OF CONSUMERS EXPECT PRICES TO RISE IN 2017 UK consumer confidence in the economy, personal finances and spending plans saw second consecutive decline in October.

UK consumers anticipate a bleak economy over the next six months, Verdict Retail’s latest poll of 2,000 UK consumers reveals. The survey shows that the future consumer sentiment index has fallen once again, as all three components – views towards the economy, personal finances, and future retail spending – decline. The index plummeted 6.6 points on September to -32.9, driven by a sharp 10.1 decline on the UK’s economic outlook index. This index is expected to decline further as the uncertainty caused by the recent US election gave only a short-lived boost to the pound against the dollar and is now weakening once again. October’s inflation index, which looks at consumer sentiment regarding price rises in sectors such as food, fuel and clothing, declined by 8.7 points on September, reaching its lowest level since November 2013. During October, the preempted price rises caused by a rapid depreciation of the pound became reality and Verdict predict that this index will fall once more as import costs increase. According to the figures, 48.2 per cent of consumers anticipate the UK economy to worsen over the next six months, up 8.5 per cent from September. More than half (51.7 per cent) of consumers expect prices to rise over the next six months, with the highest increases expected in supermarket food and fuel. “Consumer sentiment has taken a significant knock over the last two months and with March 2017 (when the UK

government is expected to invoke Article 50) looming ever closer, this index may see little improvement over the coming months. Retailers are likely to have a particularly hard time as almost 50 per cent of consumers plan to spend less, compared to under a third of consumers planning to spend less this time last year,” says Zoe Mills, analyst at Verdict Retail. The findings come amid last month’s Autumn Statement by Chancellor Philip Hammond, with key points including increased borrowing, forecast until 2021 to be £122bn higher than estimated in March’s Budget. Debt is set to rise from 84.2 per cent of GDP last year to 86.3 per cent this year, peaking at 90.2 per cent in 2017/19. Growth forecasts by the Office for Budgetary Responsibility were upgraded to 2.1 per cent, from 2 per cent for this year, but are set to fall to 1.4 per cent from 2.2 per cent in 2017 as a result of the uncertainty caused by the Brexit vote and higher inflation due to the fall in sterling. Going forward, growth is forecast to be 1.7 per cent in 2018, 2.1 per cent in 2019 and 2020 and 2 per cent in 2021. More positively, Hammond’s affirmation to the pledge to reduce the burden of business rates by £6.7bn over the next five years was welcomed by industry commentators, with the communities secretary set to lower the transitional relief cap from 45 per cent to 43 per cent next year and from 50 per cent to 32 per cent the year after, while corporation tax will fall to 17 per cent.

FOR DAILY NEWS, ANALYSIS AND UPDATES, VISIT WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

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NEWS IN BRIEF

MAJOR REBRAND FOR BRAINTREE CLOTHING

STEILMANN MAKES UK COMEBACK

Ethical fashion label Braintree Clothing has undergone a major rebrand and will be relaunched as ‘Thought’ in a bid to align the company’s name with its sustainable ethos and lay the foundations for further expansion. The brand will continue to focus on developing its wholesale business, increasing its presence in premium boutiques and large department stores, in addition to its current 500 independents in the UK and over 400 stockists in mainland Europe. As part of the rebrand, the business is also redesigning and re-platforming its website. The new site, www.wearethought.com, will further support the brand’s stockists and will be ready for the consumer launch of the s/s 17 collection in early 2017. Over the past six months, Braintree has also strengthened its board with the appointment of Sally Bailey, former White Stuff CEO, Kish De Silva, ex-Wolsey, heading up the e-commerce business, and Aviva Bard, who joins as commercial director.

German womenswear brand Steilmann, which went into liquidation earlier this year, will make a return for a/w 17, with the brand officially relaunching at the February edition of Moda Woman in Birmingham. German department store group Adler Modemärkte AG has bought the rights to the brand, designs and patterns, and has appointed a small team of former Steilmann employees around ex-product manager Björn Reich to resurrect the brand. The a/w 17 collection will be a focused line of 120 pieces, building on the handwriting and brand DNA Steilmann was known for, with coordinated looks at the core. Irish fashion company Fashion Hse, the previous distributor of Steilmann in Ireland, has been appointed as the main distributor for Steilmann in the UK and Ireland, with sub-agents for the south and north of England. The brand will be showcased at Moda Woman, held 19 to 21 February at the NEC in Birmingham, as well as in London and Fashion City, Dublin.

APANAGE MAKES MARKET RETURN German womenswear brand Apanage, which went into administration earlier this year as part of the demise of the Steilmann Group, is being brought back to market for a/w 17. The brand will be officially relaunched for the new season, after a small capsule collection for s/s 17 had already been produced. The relaunched company is a joint venture between former Apanage MD Josef Kämmerer, German entrepreneur Wolfgang Geuting and the Chinese Anhui Huamao Textile Company, who together have formed FS Fashion & Style GmbH. Former product manager of Apanage Femme, Ute Thier, has also joined the company and will be responsible for the general design direction of the brand, keeping to its general handwriting and DNA, while also creating a new, more modern look.

CLARKS VILLAGE WELCOMES NEW BRANDS The White Company, Wonderbra and Gourmet Burger Kitchen are the latest high profile signings to designer outlet shopping centre Clarks Village in Somerset. Providing luxury fashion and lifestyle products, The White Company has opened a 1,754 sq ft store, the brand’s fourth outlet within its portfolio, featuring a full range of clothing, homewares and accessories. Joining alongside is iconic lingerie brand Wonderbra, which will be unveiling an 864 sq ft store. FOLLI FOLLIE OPENS NEW CONCEPT STORE Accessory and jewellery brand Folli Follie has opened a new concept store on Regent Street, with interactive features and a contemporary look that are set to enhance the shopping experience. The new store portrays four new design elements: the sea of flowers, the aquarium showcase, the fantasy wall and the diamond cloud, achieved through statement graphics, luxurious marble flooring, rose gold furnishings and transparent surfaces. The concept store will be rolled out worldwide, with imminent openings also due in Hong Kong, Tokyo, Beijing and Athens. MAKE IT BRITISH FORUM HAILED SUCCESS The first Make It British Forum which was held in Leicester was hailed a success by organisers, delegates and guests, with the inaugural event paving the way for more regional forums across the UK in the next year. The sell-out event, which also attracted an online audience as it was streamed live from De Montfort University as part of the Leicester Business Festival, was launched by Make it British, the go-to resource for information on UK manufacturing and British-made brands.

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NEWS IN BRIEF

TEMPERLEY

SAINT JAMES EMBARKS ON UK GROWTH

LONDON FASHION WEEK MOVES HOME

French lifestyle brand Saint James is looking to double its currently 50-strong wholesale base in the UK next year, with a London flagship store also part of the brand’s ambitious expansion plans. The brand’s president, Luc Lesenecal, says the UK represents huge growth opportunities, with the aim to strengthen its distribution levels significantly. “Exports represent 40 per cent of our business, split evenly between Europe, North America, and Asia. Within Europe, the UK definitely represents a significant, and growing, part of our sales,” he says. “We’re present through roughly 50 specialty stores, Saint James being often their main brand. Our ambition is to double that amount. We also intend to eventually open a flagship store in London,” he adds. According to Lesenecal, the post Brexit vote devaluation of the pound against the Euro will be absorbed by the company, ensuring that UK customers are not at a disadvantage and suffer from inevitable price hikes as a consequence, safeguarding the growth potential of the brand.

The British Fashion Council (BFC) is set to move its two biannual events, London Fashion Week and London Fashion Week Festival, to The Store Studios, located at 180 Strand, WC2, the home of London Fashion Week Men’s. As part of the move, the event formerly known as London Fashion Weekend will be renamed London Fashion Week Festival and will run over a period of 10 days, twice a year, in February and September in an effort by the BFC to build consumer engagement with British designers. The move to The Store Studios will fulfil the BFC’s ambition of creating a fashion and cultural hub in the heart of London. Meanwhile, the London Fashion Week Festival will enable key industry players such as designers, retailers, culture institutions and industry partners to catch the eyes of consumers and high-net worth individuals through digital engagement and events throughout the city.

ZILCH TO BUILD ON SUCCESSFUL LAUNCH Dutch womenswear brand Zilch is looking to expand its UK stockist base following a successful first season. The brand launched to the UK for s/s 17 through Hebe agency and has opened up around 20 new accounts in independents such as Katie Kerr in Corbridge, View in Ludlow and Pure Clothing in Huddersfield in its first season. Originating in Amsterdam, Zilch can also be found in shops across Germany, Belgium, France, Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Switzerland and Ireland. The collection features easy to wear dresses in colourful prints with coordinating knitwear at commercial price points, with key a/w 17 items including knitted cardigans, bamboo tops and viscose dresses.

THE OUTNET REFRESHES BRAND IDENTITY Luxury e-tailer Theoutnet.com has unveiled a refreshed brand identity encompassing a bespoke typeface, a new logo and iconography. With a clean and contemporary look and feel, the reworked identity reflects the brand’s playful yet sophisticated personality and luxury offering. With the brand placing a key focus on consumer mobile usability, legibility has been optimised for all font sizes and screens across desktop and mobile. NEW CHAPTER FOR DIESEL Diesel has opened the doors to its flagship store in Knightsbridge, two decades after it first arrived in the UK. The store showcases a new retail design concept, which sees a men’s and women’s offering intertwine with industrial steel fixtures and antique style furniture. A wine cellar-inspired space houses the menswear and denim, while womenswear is featured alongside textiles and interiors found in the brand’s interiors line, Diesel Living. A stainless steel and glass installation, high definition screens and a cement mortar façade all promote the contemporary store aesthetic. The two-storey flagship spans 230 sq m and is a collaboration between Japanese architecture firm Wonderwall and Diesel’s artistic director, Nicola Formichetti. H&M SIGNS FIVE STORE DEAL AT WESTFIELD Swedish fast fashion chain H&M has signed a major five-store deal at Westfield Stratford City. Already boasting a successful store at the shopping mall, H&M will relocate and expand to become a full concept flagship store totalling 70,000 sq ft. On completion, Westfield Stratford City will be the company’s largest store in the UK offering all concepts, including the brand’s own Home and Beauty ranges. The opening is scheduled for spring 2017.

WOMAN & ACCESSORIES 19-21 FEBRUARY 2017

NEC Birmingham

Apply to exhibit or register for tickets at moda-uk.co.uk

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NEWS IN BRIEF

UKFT LAUNCHES MADE IT

MILLENNIALS MISTRUST ONLINE SECURITY

The UK Fashion & Textile Association (UKFT) has announced the launch of Made It, a collaboration with Marks & Spencer and Graduate Fashion Week to bring together graduate designers and UK manufacturers. The new partnership aims to recognise the skill within UK manufacturing and nurture emerging design talent, with both M&S and UKFT having committed to sponsor a selection of Graduate Fashion Week winners to have their collections made in the UK. To promote a better understanding of how and why young emerging brands should look to the UK as their preferred source of manufacturing, UKFT will host a series of fashion masterclasses to be held at five selected universities across the country. In recognition of the year round work the charity does, the organisation’s name will change from Graduate Fashion Week, to the Graduate Fashion Foundation. The name of the annual showcase will remain Graduate Fashion Week.

New research released by LexisNexis Risk Solutions has revealed UK millennials have growing security concerns around sharing personal information with retailers. The report, entitled UK Millennial Study: Privacy vs. Customer Experience in Retail, shows that despite millennials being digitally connected via smartphones and laptops, more than half are concerned about having their identity stolen through online or mobile/app-based activities. The research also found that 84 per cent of millennials do not believe that their personal information is fully protected online. Despite this, 89 per cent of millennials are still shopping online at home, with nearly half on their smartphone and 29 per cent on their tablet. Worryingly, 93 per cent also expressed that they do not fully trust retailers with their data, possibly suggesting that because millennials are task-rich and time-poor, the convenience and flexibility online shopping offers still prevails.

STOREFRONT LAUNCHES RETAIL MARKETPLACE Storefront, a leader in short-term retail space rental, has launched into the UK market. Dubbed the ‘Airbnb of pop-up space’, the company has worked with global brands including Samsung, Etsy, Adidas and L’Oreal and is looking to offer access to space across London. Storefront specialises in matching a network of over 80,000+ brands, from fashion brands to designers, retailers, e-commerce players, artists and start-ups, with commercial spaces across three continents. “London is a fresh trendsetting market with tremendous opportunities for brands to gain exposure,” says Mohamed Haouache, Storefront CEO and co-founder. “The ability to use a single service to find premium retail spaces for pop-up stores in cities around the world is something many brands have requested,” he adds.

OPENING DAY FOR JOHN LEWIS LEEDS John Lewis has opened its doors in Leeds as the anchor to Hammerson’s £150m Victoria Gate development. Representing a £37m investment in Leeds, the 255,000 sq ft regional flagship has created 550 jobs locally, and is one of the largest John Lewis shops outside of London. The Leeds store is the retailer’s most service and experience led to date, offering customers a range of services from in-store beauty spa concepts and travel agents to an innovative coffee experience. ANTHROPOLOGIE OPENS AT BRENT CROSS US concept store chain Anthropologie has opened its 11th store in the UK at the Brent Cross Shopping Centre in North London last month, joining brands such as Fenwick, Jaeger and Jigsaw. The store offers the company’s fashion ranges, as well as a curation of homeware and lifestyle products. Using nature as a reference point throughout, a New York-based plaster artist has drawn inspiration from the Earth for the store’s façade, while an earthy-green palette, pops of warm wood and bespoke artwork continue the theme in store. THE CLOTHES SHOW MOVES TO LIVERPOOL After 27 years in the NEC Birmingham, consumer fashion exhibition The Clothes Show is relocating to Liverpool and will be rebranded British Style Collective presented by The Clothes Show. The interactive city-wide festival, which will run 7 to 9 July, is backed by Liverpool City Council and will take over the whole of the ACC Liverpool site as well as utilising iconic city centre buildings including Liverpool Cathedral, St George’s Hall, and Camp & Furnace. The new format will allow visitors access to a multitude of catwalk shows, shopping from over 250 fashion and beauty brands, and much more.

S A AT C H I G A L L E R Y, L O N D O N

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R E G I S T E R F O R Y O U R T I C K E T AT S C O O P - I N T E R N AT I O N A L . C O M

Credit: Mantero 1902

Diane Sykes is delighted to introduce the beautiful dress collection Fee G to the U.K market for aw17. View Fee G at Diane Sykes fashion marketing showroom, 10 Middleton Place, London, W1W 7TG. Telephone 07906 070081 or email diane@dianesykesfashion.com for an appointment. www.dianesykesfashion.com

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Talking Point

Your views on the issues shaping the industry (Show)room for growth

DIANE SYKES, owner, Diane Sykes Fashion Marketing I am now officially in business and with one full year of trading under my belt, I feel like I am 100 per cent unequivocally a fully fledged agent. No longer just a fanciful idea or a far off daydream, my new daily reality (and breathtaking responsibility) is a fully functioning multi-label agency with a full-time showroom representing hand picked collections from all over Europe. Aside from the acquisition of said labels (and that is a whole different conversation) one of the

The value of fostering communities to build a brand

WILL ROWE is the CEO and founder of Protein, which helps businesses to grow and develop by understanding consumer trends and behaviour. Every single year in our annual Audience Survey we ask our global early adopters a certain question: do you purchase more items online or in store? While the figures have been inching ever closer, for the first time this year we saw online purchases overtake in-store purchases. Figures reveal that 52

toughest decisions that agents – new or established – now face is the space that they show in. It is their biggest financial consideration and therefore a real make or break decision. The impact of this can literally dictate whether or not your season is a success or not. No pressure then! A very successful agent told me once that if your product was right you could show in a barn. I suppose there was some truth to this, back when all agents showed in the West End of London and there was a designated rag trade area. For the most part agents could afford a year-round space in any one of the many buildings adapted especially for our industry. Few ventured outside it. Sadly times have changed and this formerly gritty, eccentric area is now full of fancy coffee shops and modern concept art galleries. What a shame. It seems that only the biggest brands with the biggest budgets can show their wares in this now achingly cool area known as Noho (North of Soho). The eye-watering rents in the West End have forced many multiple brand agents to take a leap into pastures further afield where they can get a lot more bang for their buck. This move requires nerves of steel and only really works with agencies with a large stable of labels to help create a

destination. Many agents are fans of the temporary showroom too. There are some really lovely temporary arrangements; although not ‘cheap’ at least there is the comfort that you are only paying for the time and space you need. Alas, with my 12-week selling period this was not for me. I’ve worked in some fabulous showrooms and so I had become a little spoilt. My own business dream was always to replicate that luxury vibe on a smaller scale, and with the brands I represented I knew I needed a West End base. The sky-high rents meant thinking outside the box, so the result was a little rented town house set right in the heart of it all. It’s ‘bijoux’ but pretty and customers tell me they like it, so a happy ending for the time being. But what is really interesting about this wholesale space ‘evolution’ is that there are no expectations. There is no right or wrong. Wherever you show, in the West End or Chelsea, hotels or exhibitions and whether you are in a temporary space, or invest in a building, each case is unique. There is so much more choice and each brand or agent can look at their business and take the approach that works for them. Quite simply, there are now no rules, and when there are no rules, there is freedom.

per cent of our Protein Audience prefer to buy online. But it doesn’t have to be a case of one versus the other, rather understanding the comparative advantages each one has to offer. In order to determine the advantages for the early adopter we dug deeper with our questioning and discovered that 61 per cent of the Protein Audience would rather spend money on experiences than products and 64 per cent want an in-store experience to connect them with members of the local community. The responses saw an overwhelming desire for connection, community and experience, but in what ways is it possible for retail to really capitalise on this? Above all else, when a brand decides to action any or all of these desires it’s vital it aligns with their core brand values. Dove recently launched the #MyBeautyMySay campaign, which is an online platform that highlights the judgemental comments women experience about their appearance. It encourages women worldwide to participate using the #MyBeautyMySay hashtag, allowing a community to thrive off the back of negative incidents. The reason it works so well for Dove is that they’ve spent the last 12 years carving a space for themselves within the female

empowerment territory. It’s entirely in line with the values the brand is built on. If a company with no previous association attempted a similar thing, it could have come across disingenuous at best, if not exploitative. A fashion brand that has fostered a physical – not online – community space is COS. The Swedish retail chain teamed up with bookstore project The Book Society for their Cheongdam store in Seoul, South Korea. They turned the passive experiences of shopping on their head by providing a reading area, bookstore and exhibition space for people to peruse in between shopping, or while waiting for partners. It was an experience that encouraged people not only to shop, but immerse themselves in the sensibility of the brand, as well as giving them the chance to interact more easily with one another. We believe that a brand isn’t what you tell people it is, it’s what people tell each other it is. If you can nurture a community and show them the values and principles of your brand, then you provide an opportunity for our Audience to identify with those values. And if there’s something they identify with, they’re going to want to share that with their friends – their community.

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With Premium, Seek, Bright and now Show & Order in the Premium Group’s trade show portfolio, co-owner and founder Anita Tillmann tells Tom Bottomley why Berlin is still very much a must-visit city for serious buyers across the board. Tom Bottomley: When and why did you initially launch the Premium trade show? Anita Tillmann: It was in 2003 with the aim to really revolutionise the trade show concept. It was all about customer centred strategies and concepts. It was the first time, in Europe at least, that women’s, men’s, denim and accessories had been put together in one show – all relevant product for the buyers in the premium sector. The portfolio was curated while the usual trade show formats at that time were just selling square metres to brands. TB: How has Premium grown? AT: We started with 70 brands in January 2003. By the July 2003 show, we had 160 exhibitors. Then, in 2005, we moved in to the STATION-Berlin property, which we’ve owned since 2007, and where we still are now. We now have in excess of 1,000 exhibitors. We’ve worked on the concept of the show constantly. We analyse the market, and we are in constant dialogue with the buyers and our exhibitors. We do everything to make the buyers happy and to maximise the whole customer journey and experience. We put a lot of effort into it – both financially and emotionally. TB: Do you think that the Premium show of today is more like a traditional trade show, given the way it has grown? AT: Not at all, because the work we do as a basis for each show and each season is completely different from traditional shows. The usual trade show format has always been about the brands who are able to pay the most in order to get the biggest stands. We don’t follow that strategy at all. For us, it is about putting the right brands together by themes, and creating the right feel and ambience to optimise how brands transport their brand image. We put a lot of thought in to how the buyers experience the show.

ANITA TILLMANN CO-OWNER AND FOUNDER, PREMIUM GROUP

TB: Is technology now playing a bigger part in your communication with buyers? AT: We have an app, which you can automatically use when you register for the show. You can put in all the requirements you have, the brands you want to see and get recommendations

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for new brands if you wish. With this you can prepare your trip to Berlin in advance in a very professional way. On top of that, there’s an integrated GPRS system to guide you through the halls when you are in Berlin. To make the stay more convenient, the app includes all information about all the Premium Group’s shows which makes it easier to see what you need to in the time you have, making the visit more efficient – especially if you also need to get to another trade show in Berlin. TB: Seek is also another of your show concepts; how did that come about? AT: Seek started as a side area next to Premium. It’s grown very organically, focusing on a completely different community. The exhibitors and buyers are part of that community. It’s not only business; it’s a lifestyle. Seek focuses more on smaller and new brands, or more niche market brands. It creates a whole different world which needs to be kept separate from Premium. Seek is more in line with the original Premium concept.

on, don’t even do trade shows any more. They changed their distribution strategy, and that can have a knock-on effect for a trade show. But it’s not all about the big brands, it’s the mix of big and smaller, traditional and innovative, young and established brands that makes an assortment vibrant. TB: Do you still believe trade shows are the most relevant format to view collections? AT: Yes, I do. First of all, there is nowhere else in Europe that gives such a complete overview of the contemporary fashion world for women, men, accessories, denim, sportswear, outerwear and shoes. All visitors get all the information and inspiration at the beginning of the season. Everybody in the industry comes together; brands from all over the world, buyers from all the big department stores, and buyers from multiples and small independents. It’s about having a physical exchange. It’s still a ‘people’ business.

TB: Are you planning on adding womenswear to Seek? AT: Yes, we are increasingly introducing womenswear, because we’ve had a lot of requests from brands like Levi’s who present both men’s and women’s collections. Womenswear is only currently about 10 per cent maximum at Seek, but that will see growth. Also, the boundaries between the womenswear and menswear collections are increasingly blurring. So, at Seek, we will be dedicating space to accommodate this. We aim to help buyers to think and buy outside of the traditional categories. At Seek, we call this new direction ‘Neutral sex’. This is reflected in women’s and men’s collections being presented within the same area; the fact is that brands no longer draw a clear line between women’s and men’s clothes when it comes to design.

TB: What do you think the future holds? AT: It’s important to keep up with the changes in the industry as well as with new developments. Therefore, we also run #Fashiontech, a conference on the future of fashion which focuses on three big topics: E-commerce & Future of Retail, Wearables & Design as well as Digital Marketing & Communications. It’s a networking event that brings together all relevant people from both the fashion and technology industries, in order to find innovative solutions for your business or to create new business models. At our last event, we received 3,500 attendees joining the talks and exhibition. Today, #Fashiontech is the biggest event of its kind in Europe. No other trade show offers this kind of quality and insight. And the best thing? It’s free for all our buyers, visitors and exhibitors.

TB: What is your general view of trade shows? AT: Trade shows are market places, and they mirror what’s going on in the market. In the best case, they guide the industry through changing times. So, you always have to question your own concept and adapt. You have to be very flexible and always strive to be better, much like retail businesses need to. Some of the bigger brands, that certain trade shows were heavily reliant

TB: Are you planning on growing your trade show business outside of Berlin? AT: For the moment, it’s all about Berlin. Consolidation of the market is a big topic right now, and that’s what we’re doing in Berlin. Through structuring the trade show landscape, we aim to make it better. But, thinking forward, we will look at expanding in Europe, and possibly to the US.

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Style File

The hottest brands not to miss this month q SNEAK PEEK Danish brand Garment Project has created a range of trend focused and comfortable footwear for s/s 17. Understated luxury is at the core, with metallic bronze and silver alongside bursts of bright pastel shades crafting an eclectic look. Key styles include the Spy, a sneaker featuring a feminine upper in soft brushed suede and chunky white sole; the Army, a retro design with a gum sole, and the Sillo, a range of super soft nubuck sandals.

u SPECIAL OCCASION Women’s bridal designer Catherine Deane has extended her e-commerce offering with a capsule collection of ready-to-wear. The handcrafted s/s 17 range features dresses and separates with delicate embroidery and intricate lace details, offering an elegant occasion wear wardrobe.

Pepe Jeans is launching In Your Dreams, a new range of jeans that stretch in all the right ways to fit curves and show them off. Featuring denim technology that combines push-up, re-shape and accentuating techniques, the jeans give a flattering effect by optimising the holding power of highelasticity denim. The re-shape element prevents puckering lengthwise along the inseam, for a streamlined yet comfortable wear, while focus on the hips and thighs in the design process achieves a balance of proportions. t DRESSED FOR WORK AND PLAY Sarah Bond is a new addition to the luxury ready-to-wear industry with designs that appeal to women who appreciate fine detail, quality and comfort. Blending statement work wear and evening dresses, the range is made in Britain and uses high quality silks and techno fabrics which are seen in expert colour blocking.

t THE COOL FACTOR O’Neill’s a/w 17 collection introduces new outdoor styles that are designed to transition through the seasons. Functional fabrics and utility trends are key, as are technical fleeces and soft shells, creating versatile and cool silhouettes. Fill levels from polyfill or down to featherless offer different options to layer up or dress down.

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1/ EASTPAK £24.45 020 3137 3901 • 2/ MOTEL ROCKS £17.50 020 3137 6235 • 3/ PIA ROSSINI £13.95 028 9146 7999 4/ HUDSON £64.71 020 7324 7590 • 5/ SAMSOE & SAMSOE £27.80 020 3137 3901 6/ BA&SH price on request 0033 1450 81415 • 7/ GLAMOROUS £22 0161 832 9996 • 8/ MI-PAC £14.60 020 7739 7620 Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

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PURE LONDON 12-14 February 2017 Stand: H104

Hebe Agency | Joanna Mulcahy | +44 771 427 97 43 | jo@hebeagency.co.uk

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Fashion Radar

SONIA DE NISCO Italian brand Sonia de Nisco is making its UK foray for a/w 17, with a clean-cut, sophisticated collection which combines urban with romantic influences. The contemporary brand is pitched at the affordable luxury sector and sits alongside the likes of L’Autre Chose, Sportmax, Rag & Bone, Vanessa Bruno and Etoile Isabel Marant, with a focus on high quality fabrics, fit and commercial appeal. The styling offers ‘comfortable glamour’ and a balanced mix of feminine and masculine elements, with the collection fully made in Italy. Offering two collections a year, each seasonal range includes around 150 pieces as well as a selection of accessories. Tone-on-tone outfits, contrasting geometric motifs and slender silhouettes sum up the key looks of the brand, with the Italian handcrafting tradition recognisable in every item. The brand has appointed London-based fashion agency Winnie & Eds and will be targeting high-quality, multi-brand independents and relevant online stores across the UK.

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Stepping up Italian footwear brand Manas has managed to grow into a leading global player while staying true to its artisan roots. WWB catches up with CEO Luciano Bagnobianchi, who, along with the third generation of the Sagripanti family, is at the helm of the business, and chats about brand integrity, the recipe for success and what else is in store.

When Italian footwear brand Manas was established in 1956 in the town of Montecosaro in the Marche region, which is famed for its small artisan businesses producing leather goods and fine footwear, it would have been hard to imagine that the business would grow into a global PLC supplying top stores around the world. But Manas has achieved just that, and in its 60-year history the company has undergone significant expansion and developments, and now employs not only 100 staff directly in its headquarters, but over 1,000 people across its wider global business operation. The Manas story began when company founder Giuseppe Sagripanti started his small crafts laboratory; the first ‘Conchita’ slippers were created here and made even more comfortable thanks to a specialist vulcanisation process that made the rubber elastic and resistant. New technologies and further perfecting of the production process meant that in the 1980s a larger manufacturing plant was needed. This set the foundation for Manas’ evolution from small craft-based workshop to industrial company, which culminated two years ago in the creation of the Alma company, a holding corporation behind the Manas and Alfiere brand names – a slick, cohesive, industrial and thoroughly modern concern with ambitions to continue the global success story, led by the third generation of the Sagripanti family, along with CEO Luciano Bagnobianchi. But despite its global reach and outlook, Manas has managed to remain true to its artisanal heritage and the traditions and history of the region it is steeped in, which is still reflected in the collections and the craftsmanship of each design. “The Marche region is at the heart of each creation. Our footwear, with its different features, reflects the craftsmanship mixed with the industrialisation of an old manufacturing district that Manas has made famous all over the world. This is the reason that the company is a perfect expression of the art of footwear manufacture in the Marches,” says Bagnobianchi proudly. Pitched at the medium to upper end of the market, Manas shoes sit alongside the likes of Ash, Ugg, Timberland, Fly, Isabel Marant and Dubarry, with the collection divided into a design and fashion segment and a sport/casual category. Each collection includes around 20 lines with 200 styles in total.

“Manas shoes are designed to accompany a woman during her day, from eight in the morning to eight in the evening, making her feel fashionable and guaranteeing her maximum comfort,” says Bagnobianchi. “Over the last few years we have worked hard on some important areas such as quality, product innovation and partnership consolidation and Manas has become a summer and winter brand. A sandal, a shoe and a boot brand. A weekend, a work and an evening brand,” he explains. Manas has been represented in the UK and Irish markets since 1990, and for the last eight years by Cocoon Partners from the agency’s showroom in West London. “The UK market currently represents about 15 per cent of our export and in recent years this figure has grown considerably,” says Bagnobianchi. “The British and Irish consumers greatly appreciate our product, both in terms of styles and quality, and we are seeing rewards for our continued investment in the collections.” Currently Manas is stocked in around 50 independents across the UK and Ireland, which are split between fashion footwear boutiques, family footwear and specialist stores, as well as another 50 or so accounts with department stores and key multiples. It’s a distribution level that suits the market positioning of the brand and represents it well without overexposure. Growth is always part of the overall strategy; however, it has to be within the right environment, as Bagnobianchi is keen to stress: “We would like to add an additional 25 independents over the next two years. This seems quite aggressive, but we have found that giving the retailers the right product, with great quality at a price with a healthy margin along with really good designs and supporting them with repeats in-season rapidly grows their sell-through percentage and leads to a strong partnership. Many of our existing accounts have been with us for over 10 years,” he elaborates. Good, long lasting relationships with stockists are evidently part of the Manas success recipe, as well as the company’s marked commitment to wholesale. “For the time being we only have wholesale partners, and in the short term we do not forecast the roll-out of a direct retail channel, apart from

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our existing e-commerce site, which is as much a global window to our brand philosophy and collections as a sales platform,” says Bagnobianchi. Manas’ typical customer is between 35 and 50, with a “young attitude and international spirit”, as Bagnobianchi puts it, “She has a preference for a sober and contemporary style both in her working time and off-duty,” he continues. Key items in the collection include ankle boots, chunky boots, sneakers and more elegant designs, with many of the winter styles featuring high quality shearling trims and sheepskin. Technological advances are always incorporated, with this year’s key developments including its Gore-Tex and Manas Sur Le Fil collections. The former is a debut capsule collection incorporating Gore-Tex, with each style waterproof and fully breathable; the latter features styles where the outsole is stitched on the upper, so there is no use of glue or iron, only leather and cotton cable, which means that the shoes are flexible with internal removable and washable insoles. This focus on combining cutting-edge performance

technology with fashion continues into a/w 17, with easy to wear boots inspired by military mountaineering, shearling lined hero pieces across an Out of The Woods theme and casual cool styles set to feature in the collection. Manas is successfully bridging the demands from global consumers for functional, contemporary and trend-led footwear with the attention to detail, quality and workmanship of its artisanal roots, which together are clearly the recipe for success. Bagnobianchi agrees: “Our history, craftsmanship, care and attention to the product are what defines our company and our ethos and which ultimately is rewarded by the loyalty of our customers,” he says. “We are optimistic about the future as we are in a good position to continue our growth plans, both in the UK and globally. But the most important thing for us is to continue to grow with the right stockists and with integrity to our brand ethos, and then growth will develop organically.” It looks like Manas is ready to tackle the next phase of its development – step by step. www.manas.com

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Dressed

to chill

Outerwear is one of the strongest product categories for autumn/ winter, with a multitude of specialist brands offering fashionable and functional design across all market levels. WWB takes a look at some of the leading players in the sector.

PARKA LONDON Launched in 2013 with the mission to transform the parka into an affordable, modern classic, Parka London uses a range of water-repellent fabrics and clever functional details that help to shield the wearer from the wind and rain, while the design remains effortlessly stylish and easy to wear. Bestsellers in the range include the Alexia 3-in-1 parka, featuring a detachable internal bomber jacket.

POLARBEAR Polarbear is a contemporary lifestyle brand offering commercial and comfortable shapes in balanced and harmonious colours. Mixing modern contemporary, vintage and ethnic chic, Polarbear uses both the latest technical and trend-led outdoor fabrications, including jacquard finishes in seasonal colour stories. Wool blends, soft quilting, detachable faux fur trims, storm cuffs, hoods, zips and stitching details are among the key features.

SOIA & KYO Soia & Kyo was founded in 2004 by creative director Ilan Elfassy with the belief that beauty is found in simplicity. The collection is therefore focused on luxurious materials with a contemporary, timeless signature style that has wide appeal. Hailing from Canada, the brand has now expanded worldwide, with its effortless style resonating with women all over.

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KIRSTEN German brand Kirsten focuses on fashionable but functional jackets and coats that are elegant yet informal. Smart casual designs and soft fabrics are at the core of the range, which is among the leading outerwear brands in its market. Look out for flattering wool coats, leopard and herringbone print jackets and coats with fur trims, which are set to define a/w 17.

RINO & PELLE Founded in 1987 with its origins in a small chain of leather stores in Southern Holland, Rino & Pelle has developed to be one of Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fastest growing outerwear brands. With a commitment to craftsmanship and quality, combined with commercial pricing, the brand has made a name for both coats and jackets in leather and fabric, as well as trend-led offerings alongside classic staples.

CO.EXIST

DOM GOOR For over 20 years Dom Goor has brought impeccable craftsmanship to the outerwear sector, and is particularly renowned for its luxury shearling jackets and coats, as well as an array of scarves and mittens, all produced in London. Using only the softest and most luxurious sheepskin, each design is crafted with practicality and style in mind, creating chic and versatile garments.

Co.Exist ist the own label by renowned Dutch designer and outerwear specialist Jetske Kooi, harnessing her elegantly feminine aesthetic to create innovative and distinctive styling pitched at the middle to upper segment of the womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s outerwear market. Using luxurious fabrics with attention to detail and finish, the designs complement the lifestyles of contemporary women.

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GEOX Breathability, comfort, innovation and styling are the core principles of Italian brand Geox. The membrane used for apparel is a microporous PFE, which guarantees transpiration to the outside, but does not let water in. Alongside functionality, styling is also hugely important, with the collection offering a multitude of versatile looks.

SCHNEIDERS Schneiders is an Austrian family business which combines heritage with the latest developments in technology. The womenswear collection reflects this philosophy, giving a modern interpretation of authentic looks. Light downs and quilts are a big feature of the range, with innovative silhouettes and material mixes at the core. Popular a/w colours include warm tones such as cinnamon, tobacco and chilli as well as blue, taupe and gravel.

BARBARA LEBEK Barbara Lebek is a family run business founded in 1923 as a ladiesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; coat company. Since the 90s the brand has been successfully expanded into separates, however, the core competency remains within outerwear. Now managed by the third and fourth generation of the company, the range offers a diversity of styles, including quilt and light down jackets, often reversible, gilets, waistcoats, down jackets and coats, as well as pure wool coats, both in timeless and contemporary silhouettes.

JUNGE For more than 70 years Junge has made its mark on Danish textile design. The brand is known for its vast array of outerwear styles, with transseasonal designs having become a big growth area. Key pieces in the collection include lightweight down jackets in various permutations alongside new features such as two-tone designs, offering an elegant mix of black and blue for a sophisticated visual effect.

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OAKWOOD For more than 30 years French leather specialist Oakwood has been experimenting with new qualities, colours and treatments to achieve desirable styles that have a loyal following the world over. With attention to authentic craftsmanship, the collection stretches from casual cool to smart chic, and from urban to minimalist. Wool coats sit alongside parks, fur and shearling coats, as well as a wealth of sophisticated leather styles. p

GLOVERALL The ultimate duffle coat company, Gloverall’s history goes back to 1951 as a supplier to the British Navy. The brand still maintains a naval link through the iconic ‘Monty’ style and its Made in England quality has fans around the world. Key styles include the Chesterfield with tailored fit, three pockets and fully lined horn buttons, the Drop Shoulder Duffle Coat with Buffalo horn toggles, as well as the Bonded Peacoat with its double breasted style and naval anchor button fastenings.

BLUE FLAME German brand Blue Flame produces fashion-led casual coats and jackets at affordable price points, covering UK sizes 10 to 26. The brand is aimed at the 30-plus woman and picks up and translates international trends into wearable collections across outerwear and skiwear. Now in its third season in the UK, the brand’s customer base is growing steadily and is set to make an even bigger impact for a/w 17.

DIEGO M What started out with an idea to reinvent outerwear based on contemporary influences, colour, fine fabrics and new silhouettes to create a new wearability, has developed into one of Italy’s most successful specialist brands. Diego M stays true to its Made in Italy principles of high quality and design, and a lot of elaborate creative work goes into each garment. The brand is stocked in some of the world’s most prestigious stores and continues to grow rapidly in the UK.

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CREENSTONE Dutch brand Creenstone offers a blend of sophisticated modern fashion and confident, feminine style. The brand’s coats and jackets are made to be durable and practical as well as fashionable and are guaranteed to hold their shape in all weather conditions. Building on extensive expertise in the outerwear sector, each design is carefully crafted using latest technologies and treatments, with a diverse range of coats and jackets each season.

DIDRIKSONS Didriksons’ philosophy is not to challenge the elements, but to adapt to them. The Swedish brand’s heritage goes back to 1913 when it supplied workwear for the fishermen of Grundsund on the edges of Sweden’s western coast. Making functional clothes that keep the wearer dry and comfortable has remained the driving principle, but now combining functionality with an equally as strong element of fashion. Padded parkas with detachable synthetic fur trims on the hood and three-inone jackets designed for outdoor activities are among the key styles.

COLUMBIA Established in Portland, Oregon, USA, Columbia has been making sportswear for more than 70 years. Today the brand is a global player, building on its sportswear roots with a high fashion content and a no nonsense approach which focuses on functionality, technological innovation and clever design features.

See us at Moda Stand P41 19-21 February 2017

Didriksons UK Ltd +44 1275 390451 www.didriksons.com

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Net gains Exclusivity on a certain brand and lucrative price architecture are cornerstones of bricks and mortar retail, but once online, it’s a very different marketplace with harsh competition. Isabella Griffiths chats to key brands and retailers about their approach to online vs in-store trading.

The rise of e-commerce has opened up a myriad of lucrative opportunities for the fashion sector and significantly expanded the reach of conventional bricks and mortar retail. On the flip side, however, this has also brought a multitude of pitfalls, with increased pressure on both retailers and brands and how they deal with the growing competition. For one, there is the issue of exclusivity. Back in the day when there were only bricks and mortar shops, it was relatively easy for brands to grant retailers territorial exclusivity in their towns or areas, and it was often a defining factor in the relationship between a brand/agent and the stockist. But this concept has been turned on its head with the arrival of the internet, and a global online market that is literally limitless. Whilst a retailer may have the exclusive rights to a brand within a certain radius of their store, and is therefore protected against unwanted direct competition, it’s a very different story online, where the same brand will be stocked by multiple other e-tailers, and often also sold on the brand’s own e-commerce site. It can be a tricky situation, especially when the retail prices vary significantly or there is heavy discounting, which can lead to an out-and-out price war that can quickly spiral out of control and leave indies, in particular, unable to compete. “Territorial exclusivity is still very important for indies like me,” says Alexandra Boardman, owner of Alexandra’s in Keswick, who runs both a bricks and mortar store as well as a transactional website. “But of course, this only applies to my bricks and mortar store. It’s not so easy to enforce online, where we compete against anyone and everyone. As long as brands and retailers agree on a certain code of conduct, there usually isn’t a problem. Sadly, this isn’t always the case, and it’s ‘the big boys’ who will dominate the online marketplace. She adds, “Earlier this season I took delivery of some new stock; the day the delivery arrived some of the garments were on the supplier’s website with 20 per cent off. I felt very let down and demoralised, since when I had placed my forward order I was given a date for when the supplier would mark the prices down on their website. I did contact my sales rep, who was great and gave me a price reduction as well. But it did affect my s/s 17 order with that company,” she explains. “I have always struggled with the companies who think that to grow they must always have an ‘offer’ on. But all this does is educate the customer never to pay full price.” This is mirrored by Angela Wybrew, owner of Angela in Long Melford, Suffolk, who purely trades through her bricks

http://jameslakeland.net/

and mortar store, and says she often falls victim to the ‘showrooming effect’, where customers will browse and try on in-store, but then buy online at the lowest possible price. “We don’t sell from our website, so we don’t encounter problems in terms of competing for online sales. However, there is now the issue of customers coming into the store, trying things on and then going away to see if they can source it in other colours/ sizes and cheaper online. In that respect it’s made it more difficult to secure a sale,” she says. Price is evidently a – if not the – most important consideration and defining factor in whether there is a level

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https://www.alexandrasofkeswick.com/

playing field between online retailers or not. And a lot depends on how brands handle this via their trading policies. According to Nick Williams, co-founder of Marble, this boils down to good, honest communication and a common sense approach. “We don’t sell online ourselves, so we don’t compete with our own customers, and one of our key policies is that we don’t supply pure e-commerce retailers, either. They haven’t got rents and rates to pay like our bricks and mortar customers, and can therefore afford to undercut on price, so this is a way of protecting the interests of our stockists,” he explains. “That said, many of our stockists have their own transactional websites, and it’s impossible to police the prices they are selling our collections at. It’s just a reality of trading; if our stockists have a website and want to sell our products there, then we don’t have a problem with that. In fact, we are very much geared towards supporting them; we supply professional photography on all our styles, for instance. We also direct anyone searching for our brand to them. As long as everyone is sensible about it, you have to accept that online is not going to go away and is just another way of trading,” he adds. James Lakeland, owner of the eponymous brand, which trades via wholesale as well as own stores and its e-commerce website, takes a similarly pragmatic approach. “Everything is online now. We have to be realistic that the world has moved on and retailers need to adapt – you don’t dictate the market, the market dictates you. For us as a brand, e-commerce is essential

and a very important trading platform. We are not oversubscribed on our wholesale; for example, we haven’t got any stockists in Norfolk, so being online and reaching the end consumer that way is essential,” he says. Lakeland stresses, however, that this does not mean he does not support the brand’s stockists. “We encourage our indies to buy differently to what we have on the website, to give them their own edit, so to speak, and we will always direct any customers that find us via our stores or website to their local James Lakeland stockists where possible. Of course when it comes to online, there is no such thing as guaranteed exclusivity, and you can’t police on pricing either. But we do offer good margins, so even if our stockists are forced to compete and reduce their prices by 10 or 20 per cent, they still make a good profit, as we have created a price architecture that facilitates this,” he concludes. Howard Ross, managing director of Retail Brand Connections, which represents wholesale brands Ronen Chen, Domina and Calaluna in the UK, believes that online competition does not have to be a bad thing, and that, in fact, it can help maximise the visibility, and therefore the desirability, of a brand, which helps all stockists: “I think it’s a fallacy to think that exclusivity helps sales. Proven research shows that the more visible brands are, the more consumers recognise them and buy into them. Psychologically, they think that if they see it in many places, it must be good. If they only see it in a few places, then they question it. The business is changing at a rapid pace, and independents and stores alike need to embrace this change if they are to survive,” he says. He, too, believes that an open, honest relationship with stockists and a common sense approach are best in dealing with the physical vs online competition. “When it comes to bricks and mortar, we try to be fair as far as keeping distances between bricks and mortar stockists goes, and if brands operate their own e-commerce site, we endeavour to ensure prices are fixed, and that reductions are in line with UK sales periods. Most of our customers do their own websites and promotions anyway. We do give RRPs, which they appear to keep to. Customers will always buy differently, so there is always a difference between each stores’ offer, but inevitably bestsellers are bestsellers everywhere,” he adds. “Brands, like everyone else in business, want increased sales, and with fewer independents around, there is no doubt that more and more brands will develop their own e-commerce.” James Lakeland agrees: “Online competition doesn’t have to be a bad thing. If you can create a hype about a brand and generate desirability, then that works for all retailers. Ultimately, I think we all have to join the competition and get on with it.”

FALL - WINTER 2017/2018 SHOWING: Monday 23rd January Friday 17th February 2017 MODA, 19th - 21st February 2017 Stand Q68 Apt Collections Ltd Nigel and Claudia Hughes T: + 44 - 207 580 3202 E: nigel@aptcollections.ltd.uk / claudia@aptcollections.ltd.uk

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New Year’s Resolutions As 2016 is drawing to a close, WWB takes the opportunity to quiz some of the movers and shakers of the industry about their highlights and challenges of the last 12 months – and their plans for 2017.

SALLY LONGDEN, OWNER, STICK AND RIBBON, NOTTINGHAM What was your business highlight of 2016? To come top in the Retail & Services Category in our city’s competition to find the best independent business was a real highlight for us. It showed us that we are doing something that people love and it was great to receive some recognition for all the team’s hard work. What was the biggest challenge for you this year? The weather had a huge impact on sales yet again this year. Also, the large retailers on the high street having constant sales means customers are always looking for a bargain or waiting for your sale. What are your business resolutions for 2017? To stick to our guns. We are reducing the amount of large forward orders and working with suppliers to get the right mix.

MEL ROLLINSON, WOODIE & MORRIS, HASLEMERE, SURREY

JOANNA DAVIES, OWNER, BLACK WHITE DENIM, WILMSLOW What was your business highlight of 2016? Having our most profitable year since we opened. What was the biggest challenge for you this year? The weather! A mild winter and a wet summer were very tricky to navigate in retail. What are your business resolutions for 2017? I want to focus on my own business and not worry what anyone else is doing.

What was your business highlight of 2016? We’ve experienced a lot of growth in the past year. We’re up on customer numbers and on sales, which is really great considering the tough business climate and Brexit earlier this year. What was the biggest challenge for you this year? Getting the ordering timing and balance right. It’s important not to order too much and to really think about how much we are forward ordering. It’s a learning curve. The aim for us is to get the right stock at the right time in the right place. We started an own label cashmere range this year and so far that’s gone really well. What are your business resolutions for 2017? Generally to build on 2016 and learn the lessons from the last year and take them into 2017. We want to focus on the idea of right stock, right time, right place, and trying to get this spot on. With this in mind, we want to develop more of our own label garments. The control over ordering and delivery, and not having to receive the stock into the store in September, has worked really well for us. We’re looking at using different materials and developing different products in the own label range, so watch this space.

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FRANK LYMAN, OWNER, FRANK LYMAN

LIZ TRENDLE, OWNER, THE GATE BOUTIQUE, GUILDFORD

What was your business highlight of 2016? We are excited to see how independent stockists who carry our collections are thriving in the current political and economic climate. We also had such sensational response from our first time attendance at the Moda show that we are looking forward to returning in February with our new collections.

What was your business highlight of 2016? The highlight in 2016 for me has been having month on month increased sales in both of my stores, during a period of time when many independent businesses have been struggling.

What was the biggest challenge for you this year? Some stockists harbour a fear that online shopping will destroy their independent business. The reality, however, has proven itself to us over the last few years in the UK and around the world: that a brick and mortar stockist operated by owners who know their customers and service them brilliantly, will never go out of style or out of business. Many of our savviest customers are embracing this new world including social media to enhance their marketing effectiveness, with great success – retail is now a ‘multi-channel’ social world.

What was the biggest challenge for you this year? Recognising the different customer base in each of my stores and adjusting my buying to suit these very different audiences. What are your business resolutions for 2017? To keep increasing my sales by reaching out in a more personalised approach to my clients by creating a tailor-made VIP customer service. I believe this is what we as independent stores do best and why we can stand out against the big boys and the internet.

What are your business resolutions for 2017? Continue to deliver collections that excite customers and sell better than ever at retail by focusing on design and an unmatched fit, while remaining true to our core beliefs: producing top quality Canadian-made garments and not competing with our customers (we don’t retail, sell online or sell on TV shopping networks). This is what drives us every day and what will keep our customers in business for years to come.

TESSA ROBERTS, OWNER, BLUE MILL AGENCY MARK ROWE, UK SALES MANAGER, JOSEPH RIBKOFF What was your business highlight of 2016? We again achieved a record year of sales thanks to the support, drive and enthusiasm of our team, together with loyalty and belief in JR from our customers. And of course, most important is having product that sells in the stores What was the biggest challenge for you this year? Time! Making sure we manage it correctly to continue to offer our superb service to our retailers. What are your business resolutions for 2017? As we approach the 60th anniversary of the company, we aim to continue our momentum of building ever stronger relationships with our partners.

What was your business highlight of 2016? Setting up my agency and seeing it gradually start growing. I really enjoyed meeting all my lovely new customers and visiting all their shops around the country. What was the biggest challenge for you this year? The biggest challenge has been the euro/pound exchange rate. I buy mostly from Europe for my shops and am also selling mainly French and Spanish brands with my agency work, so I think 2017 is going to be a very challenging year until we all get used to the low pound. What are your business resolutions for 2017? To get out of bed 30 minutes earlier and try and always be on top of my paperwork. I could get quite a bit done if I had my cup of tea at the computer instead of in bed, surrounded by dogs.

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Exhibition

calendar The key shows for a/w 17 at a glance.

TOP DRAWER 15-17 January 2017 Olympia, London 020 7384 8042 www.topdrawer.co.uk — London tradeshow Top Drawer presents a curated choice of new products and brands across home, gift, fashion and craft. Over 1,000 UK and international brands will showcase collections across the fashion and lifestyle categories. This season, the show will present UK Jewellery Collections, a category designed to highlight brands that stand out. Meanwhile, a fashion catwalk will showcase the latest trends in accessories and jewellery.

PANORAMA BERLIN 17-19 January 2017 ExpoCenter City, Berlin 0049 3027 595 6040 www.panorama-berlin.com — Panorama will welcome more than 700 leading fashion and lifestyle brands for the a/w 17 showcase. As one of the anchor shows of Berlin Fashion Week, more than 50,000 buyers and fashion professionals are expected to attend the show. This season, the show’s Nova Concept is given a sharper profile with a series of new exhibitors from across denim and urbanwear.

Sponsored by:

PROJECT NEW YORK 8-10 January 2017 Jacob Javits Center, New York 001 218 740 6873 www.magiconline.com WHITE 14-16 January 2017 Via Tortona 27, 20144 Milan 0039 02 345 92785 www.whiteshow.it COUROMODA 15-18 January 2017 Expo Center Norte Sao Paulo 0055 (11) 3897 6100 www.couromoda.com BRIGHT 17-19 January 2017 Am Flutgraben, 12435 Berlin 0049 696 696 2157 www.brighttradeshow.com SEEK 17-19 January 2017 Eichenstrasse 4, 12435 Berlin 0049 3020 8891 3400 www.seekexhibitions.com

The UK’s largest fashion trade exhibition

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PREMIUM 17-19 January 2017 STATION-Berlin Luckenwalder Straße 4–6 10963 Berlin 0049 (0)30 629 0850 www.premiumexhibitions.com — After focusing on the activewear trend at last season’s show, Berlin tradeshow Premium continues to present athleisure as one of the key trends. Among the diverse categories, which ranges from athleisure to accessories, beachwear and footwear, the show welcomes 30 per cent new labels to the upcoming edition. Established names such as Humanoid, Birkenstock and Harris Wharf London also help to make up the 1,000 strong portfolio of brands.

INDIA INTERNATIONAL GARMENT FAIR 18-20 January 2017 Pragati Maidan, New Delhi 0091 124 270 8027 www.indiaapparelfair.com — India International Garment Fair (IIGF) is one of the largest and oldest apparel sourcing destinations in India. Organised and managed by the Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC), the 58th edition of the fair will host more than 400 leading exhibitors from around the world. This season sees the introduction of a new e-catalogue system, showcasing new products displayed by the exhibitors during the fair.

SCOOP INTERNATIONAL 12-14 February 2017 Saatchi Gallery, Kings Road London 020 7596 5154 www.scoop-international.com — Premium womenswear and accessories tradeshow Scoop is held at the Saatchi Gallery, London. As an international and design-led exhibition for niche brands, the show offers a diverse mix of over 250 international contemporary designers. This upcoming edition welcomes the likes of Lulu Guinness, Anna + Nina, Mila & James and Second Female. Meanwhile, TV personality Rosie Fortescue will bring her debut jewellery collection Rosie Fortescue Jewellery to the a/w 17 show.

SHOW&ORDER 17-19 January 2017 Kraftwerk Berlin-Mitte Köpenicker Str. 70 10179 Berlin 0049 3057 704181 www.showandorder.com BIJORHCA 20-23 January 2017 Paris Expo Porte de Versailles, Paris 0033 1 4756 5282 www.bijorhca.com PREMIERE CLASSE 20-23 January 2017 Porte de Versailles, Paris 0033 1 4013 7483 www.premiere-classe.com WHO’S NEXT X PREMIERE CLASSE 20-23 January 2017 Porte de Versailles, Paris 0033 1 4013 7483 www.whosnext-tradeshow.com MODEFABRIEK 22-23 January 2017 Amsterdam RAI Europaplein 8, 1078 GZ Amsterdam 0031 2044 21960 www.modefabriek.nl SUPREME 28-31 January 2017 Bennigsen Platz 1 Kaiserswertherstraße/Ecke Karl-Arnold-Platz 40474 Düsseldorf 0049 894 204 479 www.munichfashioncompany.com

>>>

MODA WOMAN AND ACCESSORIES 19-21 February 2017 NEC Birmingham APPLY TO EXHIBIT OR REGISTER FOR TICKETS AT MODA-UK.CO.UK

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PURE LONDON 12-14 February 2017 Olympia, London 020 3033 2015 www.purelondon.com — For a/w 17, Pure London presents Saturated Soul as its central theme. Inspired by WGSN’s a/w 17 trend forecast, rich colours, nature and half-light are all key to this season’s presentation. New brands include Paola Collection, Louche London, Isay, Indi & Cold and Harlem Carter. Meanwhile, returning favourites such as Collectif Vintage, Glamorous and Daisy Street sit alongside athleisure brands like Jilla Active.

LONDON FASHION WEEK 17-21 February 2017 The Store Studios, London 020 7759 1990 www.londonfashionweek.co.uk — London Fashion Week is moving to a new home this season, joining LFW Men’s at its central location, The Store Studios. Key segments include the Designer Showrooms and the BFC Presentation Space, which are home to over 150 designers showcasing a diverse selection of ready-to-wear, footwear, bags and accessories.

MODA WOMAN 19-21 February 2017 NEC Birmingham www.moda-uk.co.uk 01484 846069 — Confirming its position as the trade’s essential womenswear show, Moda Woman makes a welcome return for a/w 17. Key returning names include Brakeburn, Rino & Pelle, Smashed Lemon, Marble, Latte, Sahara and Peruzzi, while new additions include Canadian export French Dressing Jeans. Noir will host a selection of evening and occasionwear labels from brands including Mascara, Linea Rafaelli and Veromia Occasions, while Moda Edit showcases a selection of niche and up-and-coming labels. Retailers will also have the opportunity to top up on mid-season orders with Moda Loves, the show’s essential platform for on-trend, in-season designs.

CIFF 1-3 February 2017 Bella Center, Copenhagen 0045 3252 8811 www.ciff.dk REVOLVER 1-3 February 2017 Halmtorvet 11, 1700 Copenhagen V 0045 3964 8586 www.revolver.dk MOMAD METROPOLIS 3-5 February 2017 IFEMA Convention & Congress Centre, Madrid 0034 91 722 3000 www.momad.metropolis.ifema.es GDS 7-9 February 2017 Messe Düsseldorf, Düsseldorf 0049 211 4560 7606 www.gds-online.com PREMIERE VISION PARIS 7-9 February 2017 Parc des Expositions, Paris Nord-Villepinte, Paris 0033 1 7038 7030 www.premierevision.com INDX WOMENSWEAR & FOOTWEAR 8-10 February 2017 Cranmore Park, Solihull 0121 713 4453 www.indxshow.co.uk LONDONEDGE 12-13 February 2017 Business Design Centre, Upper Street London 0116 279 5179 www.londonedge.com

MODA WOMAN AND ACCESSORIES 19-21 February 2017 NEC Birmingham

>>>

15â&#x20AC;&#x201D;17 January 2017 Olympia, London

ADVENTURES IN

FASHION Surround yourself with the finest jewellery and accessories labels, expertly chosen to inspire your buying. Release your inner style scout and explore the exclusively curated world of Fashion at Top Drawer.

YOUR JOURNEY BEGINS HERE Register now at topdrawer.co.uk

S/S 17 EDITION

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MODA FOOTWEAR 19-21 February 2017 NEC Birmingham www.moda-uk.co.uk 01484 846069 — As the UK’s most comprehensive footwear exhibition, Moda Footwear is an essential show for womenswear and footwear buyers alike. This season will once again see the event play host to its popular Boutique plaza, the destination platform for directional womenswear styles. New arrivals for women include contemporary Italian designer Candice Cooper, consumer favourite Joe Brown’s and leather specialist Regarde Le Ciel. Other collections to look out for include Jessica Wright footwear, Irregular Choice, Alpe and Ruby Shoo, while industry leaders Sebago, Peter Kaiser, Caprice, Lunar, Xti and Tamaris are amongst the extensive list of labels already confirmed for February.

ASIA’S FASHION JEWELLERY & ACCESSORIES FAIR 1-4 March 2017 AsiaWorld-Expo, Hong Kong International Airport, Lantau Island, Hong Kong www.exhibitions.asiafja.com — Last season Asia’s Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair welcomed over 5,700 visitors from 90 different countries. The March edition will present six areas representing China, India, Japan, Korea, the Philippines and the Taiwan region. Three themed zones – Stainless Steel Jewellery, Fashion Accessories and Fashion Jewellery – will showcase over 370 exhibitors at the upcoming edition.

TRANOI PARIS: WOMEN’S 3-6 March 2017 Carrousel de Louvre & Palais de la Bourse Paris 0033 153018490 www.tranoi.com — Tranoi gathers and curates some of the best avant-garde and progressive designers as well as contemporary and leading brands. The flagship tradeshow in the Tranoi portfolio of events welcomes over 650 international exhibitors and covers a wide range of categories including ready-to-wear, jewellery, footwear, leather goods, hats, scarves, sunglasses, jackets and swimwear.

MICAM 12-15 February 2017 Fiera Milano, Milan 0039 0243 8291 www.micamonline.com ASIA APPAREL EXPO 14-16 February 2017 Messe Berlin, Berlin 00852 3588 9688 www.asiaapparelexpo.com MODA ACCESSORIES 19-21 February 2017 NEC Birmingham www.moda-uk.co.uk 01484 846069 MODA LINGERIE & SWIMWEAR 19-21 February 2017 NEC Birmingham www.moda-uk.co.uk 01484 846069 CPM MOSCOW 20-23 February 2017 Expocentre, Moscow 0049 211 439 6397 www.cpm-moscow.com MAGIC 21-23 February 2017 Las Vegas Convention Centre and the Mandalay Bay Convention Centres, Las Vegas 0031 0857 7500 www.magiconline.com CAPSULE PARIS 2-5 March 2017 Place de la Concorde, 75001, Paris 001 212 206 8310 www.capsuleshow.com

>>>

apply to exhibit or register for tickets at moda-uk.co.uk

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ILM WINTER STYLES 4-6 March 2017 Messe Offenbach GmbH, Kaiserstrasse 108-112, Offenbach 0049 6982 975520 www.ilm-offenbach.de — Around 300 exhibitors from over 20 countries are set to present leather goods, bags, travel items and accessories at the upcoming edition of the Berlin tradeshow. Twice a year, around 6,000 trade visitors from Germany and beyond descend upon the fair, which last season welcomed the likes of Victorinox Travel Gear, Jekyll and Hide, Paul’s Boutique, Spikes & Sparrow, LYDC London and Samsonite.

CHIC SHANGHAI 15-17 March 2017 National Exhibition & Convention Centre, Shanghai 0049 211 3026 4337 www.chiconline.com.cn — With more than 1,000 exhibitors over 100,000 sq m and more than 100,000 expected visitors, Chic is one of the leading fashion tradeshows in Asia. The latest edition introduces a new area called Impulse, which offers a platform to young designers. Chic also plays host to a variety of sub shows, including Chic Young Blood, GOFL 2017 and Korean Preview in China.

VM AND DISPLAY SHOW 5-6 April 2017 Business Design Centre, London 01945 420068 www.vmanddisplay.com — The international sourcing exhibition provides visitors with the opportunity to meet more than 100 fashion producers offering manufacturing services from Europe, Eastern Europe and the Mediterranean. The show covers everything within visual merchandising and display including mannequins, print, Christmas decorations, display services, props, design, graphics, bust forms, POP, lighting, fabrics and more. Aside from the exhibition, visitors can access a free conference programme.

MOMAD SHOES 4-6 March 2017 IFEMA Convention & Congress Centre, Madrid 0034 902 221 515 www.momad.metropolis.ifema.es THE LONDON BRIDAL SHOW 5-7 March 2017 Olympia, London W14 020 7772 8300 www.thelondonbridalshow.co.uk FASHION ACCESS 29-31 March 2017 Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong 0085 2282 76211 www.fashionaccess.aplf.com THE HUB 8-10 April 2017 Lujiazui Xi Road, Pudong, Shanghai www.thehub.hk BARCELONA BRIDAL WEEK 28-30 April 2017 Fira de Barcelona Gran Via venue. Av. Joan Carles I, 64 Barcelona 0034 932 332 000 www.barcelonabridalweek.com

MODA WOMAN AND ACCESSORIES 19-21 February 2017 NEC Birmingham

The most

Professional & International Fair of its kind in Asia

1 - 4 March 2017

AsiaWorld-Expo • Hong Kong

www.AsiaFJA.com UBM Asia Ltd 17/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Tel : (852) 2516 1677 / 2585 6179 | Fax : (852) 3749 7542 | Email : salesafj-hk@ubm.com

3FJ17_190x136_eng.indd 1

8/11/16 上午10:48

The essential resource for the womenswear industry.

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London calling Boutique trade show Scoop is returning to its original home, the Saatchi Gallery in Chelsea, this season. And once again the show presents an exclusive mix of international brands, home grown talent, new designers and some of the biggest names in the sector. WWB takes a sneak peek at some of the brands making an appearance at this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s show.

ANGE LA CAPU TI

ROSIE FORTESCUE

UE KA RL DO NO GH

KARL DONOGHUE Yorkshire born designer Karl Donoghue is known for pushing the boundaries and perception of shearling, leather and fur. Creating luxury outerwear and accessories for more than 20 years, the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collections feature contemporary and yet timeless pieces, showing off natural skins and their unique intrinsic qualities to best effect. Each piece is cut by hand and constructed using the finest craftsmanship techniques. ROSIE FORTESCUE Reality TV star and blogger turned jewellery designer Rosie Fortescue will be showcasing her eponymous jewellery at Scoop. The collection is based around original designs with a luxurious feel, featuring stacking rings, ear jackets, delicate bracelets with multi-coloured gem stones, dainty geometric earrings and more, in a variety of materials, notably the unusual black rhodium.

ANGELA CAPUTI Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi is recognised around the world for her original and eye-catching creations. Her jewellery is considered both fashion and art, slotting perfectly into the concept of Scoop. Each piece features carefully considered details, geometrical lines and nuanced colours, creating a minimalist and yet hugely effective look. MALA ALISHA The look of Austrian brand Mala Alisha is shaped by a combination of high-quality materials and accentuated and contrasted colours, with a core of casual meets luxury. Centred around luxurious scarves and fur trims, the collection is inspired by the cutting edge of fashion and distinguished by a strong focus on fine fabrics and sophisticated details. Beanies and collars round off the versatile range.

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SCOOP 12 to 14 February 2017, Saatchi Gallery, Chelsea, London Opening times: Sunday 9.30am - 6pm • Monday 9.30am - 6pm • Tuesday 9.30am - 4pm For more information, pre -registration and an up to date exhibitor list visi www.scoop-internation t al.com

DE A KU DI BA L

BEAT RICE B

MALA ALISHA LILY AND LIONEL

DEA KUDIBAL Dea Kudibal is the founder and designer of the eponymous label, which was founded in 2003 in Denmark with a collection of exclusive scarves and shawls made from vintage fabrics. The clothing line was added five years later, and has quickly established an international following, thanks to its highly feminine prints, playful colours and flattering silhouettes, which define the brand’s DNA. Stretch silk forms an essential part of every collection, as does inspiration taken from cultures across the globe. BEATRICE B Italian brand Beatrice B is aimed at women who appreciate innovation and refined details, expressed through a collection that adds a modern edge to classic must-have patterns, with sharper and bolder lines. Long dresses in a variety of prints and high quality fabrics feature heavily, along with ultra-modern skirts, sweatshirts

and structured coats. The range is strictly ‘Made in Italy’, and it’s this ethos and attention to quality that is earning the band its international recognition. LILY AND LIONEL Named after Creative Director Alice Stone’s grandparents, both of whom had rich histories in the British textiles industry, luxury British fashion house Lily and Lionel has become synonymous with innovative print design. Having started with a range of digitally printed scarves, the brand was expanded into a resort and swimwear collection last year, which was quickly followed by the band’s first ready-to-wear collection for a/w 15. Stocked in over 150 stores worldwide, the collection includes silk shirts, lux leather jackets, dresses, skirts, nightwear and more, all featuring the statement prints the brand has become known for.

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Moda

From rebrandings to relaunches, Moda Woman, Moda Footwear and Moda Accessories are the key platforms for brands entering a new era for a/w 17. WWB takes a first look at whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in store. q

THOUGHT Thought, formerly Braintree Clothing, will be using Moda as a platform to present its major rebranding and wholesale push, while remaining committed to its sustainable ethic.

IC JOY Newly launched this year in a bid to unite art and fashion, IC-Joy is an inspiring new arrival within Moda White. The dynamic womenswear brand will reveal a ready-to-wear range for a/w 17, created by French artist Christophe Cohen with a minimalist nod to a love of contemporary art.

AIGLE French brand Aigle is making a welcome return to Moda, showing both its apparel and footwear collections at the show.

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19 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 21 February 2017 NEC Birmingham

STEILMANN German brand Steilmann will be officially relaunching at Moda, now under new ownership and with a streamlined collection that focuses on the core DNA of the brand and what defined its huge global success. u

ALICE HANNAH Accessory brand Alice Hannah makes its debut over in Moda Accessories, bringing along an exclusive collection of scarves with a difference. q

CANDICE COOPER German footwear brand Candice Cooper will be making its first appearance at Moda Footwear, showcasing a diverse range of eye-catching and directional sneakers.

DIDRIKSONS Swedish outerwear brand Didriksons will be building on its previous successful Moda showings, with an outerwear collection for men and women that combines functionality with style.

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Panorama The next edition of Berlin tradeshow Panorama is set to welcome brand new product sectors and a host of new signings. Victoria Jackson discovers more about the mainstream fashion exhibition. —

Taking place from 17-19 January, Berlin tradeshow Panorama will once again expand its show space, with new category areas and refreshed segments. The show will see the launch of a new footwear and accessories concept for the a/w 17 season. Originally designed as two separate entities – a dedicated accessories area and a shoe hall – the forthcoming season of the show will see them come together under one roof in Hall 5 and 6. Each of the two halls will have 3,000 sq m of exhibition space and will present 120 shoe and accessory labels including Bronx, Dockers, Emu Australia, Melvin & Hamilton, Peter Kaiser, Vagabond and many more. “Last season, our goal was to organise Panorama Berlin’s offer and to present the individual products clearly, so buyers could orient themselves easily and enjoy a quick overview,” says Jörg Wichmann, CEO, Panorama. “Unfortunately we overdid it a bit. So, for the coming season, we will combine shoes and accessories, arranging them into an inspiring whole. In addition, we will break up the individual stands and create central areas, where we will present the exhibitors’ products in a retail-oriented manner,” he adds. Due to the success of the show’s premiere plus size area last season, HIPSTAR will welcome an expansion in floor space, with the addition of a 1,300 sq m surface area exhibition hall. Buyers can expect to see brands such as Zizzi, Mat Fashion, Sheego,

KJ Brand, Adia, Doris Streich and Via Apple. The forthcoming show will also see Panorama launch its first dedicated lingerie and underwear segment in Hall 7C. With 40 brands set to present their latest collections, the space will include a lounge and a stage for trend presentations and business seminars. “When we asked what segments were still missing at Panorama Berlin, we kept hearing lingerie. We now look forward to meeting this need with a dedicated lingerie hall,” says Wichmann. For buyers looking for denim and urbanwear, Nova Concept continues to attract a raft of exciting signings, including Lee, Guess, Fornarina, Wrangler, Solid, Tigha, Marciano, In My Hood, The Fresh Brand and many more. Meanwhile MA!N, the show’s menswear section in Hall 2, will see a host of lifestyle products added, alongside names such as Benvenuto, Alberto, Roy Robson and Bugatti. Key names in premium womenswear, such as Marc Cain, Luisa Cerano and Nile, will be available to view at Hall 4, the show’s Contemporary Luxury category. Finally, following on from its launch in November 2016, Panorama Digital will continue to develop as the world’s first virtual consumer fashion trade fair show with its new B2C platform. Here interested end-consumers can ‘stroll’ along the fair and view the latest trends and collection on sale, including a store finder.

FOR MORE INFORMATION AND TO REGISTER VISIT WWW.PANORAMA-BERLIN.COM

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Top Drawer Taking place at Olympia London, from 15-17 January 2017, Top Drawer welcomes the latest brands and innovations in home, fashion, craft and gifts. WWB’s Rebecca Jackson picks some of the key exhibitors in the s/s 17 showcase.

CHERITH HARRISON

BRANCHE D’OLIVE FENELLA ABRAMS & CHRONICLE BOOKS

ACE TEA LONDON

24BOT TLES

CHERITH HARRISON Launched in 2012 and based in Edinburgh, Cherith Harrison presents animal inspired home and gift accessories. From tea towels to tote bags, mugs, planners and memo cards, all products feature illustrations of British wildlife, including the stag, Highland cow, fox, sparrow and hare. BRANCHE D’OLIVE Branche d’Olive is a luxury lifestyle brand that offers a wide range of home fragrances, bath/beauty products and accessories. Products in the range are hand sourced and include candles and room diffusers. The room diffuser and boxed candle pictured are specially developed to create a soft ambience through a combination of blackcurrant, fresh rose and violet, with hints of soft vanilla and sandalwood. 24BOTTLES Italian design brand 24Bottles was born in 2013 with an aim to free the world of disposable plastic bottles. The Urban Bottle (pictured) is inspired by the classic 1950s bike canteen. The product has been reconfigured in a tough but lightweight stainless steel, featuring a mouth wide enough to accommodate ice cubes. The brand donates 1 per cent of annual sales to non-profit organisations dedicated to improving the environment.

FENELLA British designer Fenella Smith offers up ceramics, fabrics and stationery. Working with her brother, an illustrator, and a team of craftspeople in Portugal, ceramics in the Fenella range are slip cast, finished by hand and then decorated with in-glaze decals. Fenella works in partnership with the Dogs Trust, producing special ranges whereby 25 per cent of the proceeds are donated to the charity. ABRAMS & CHRONICLE BOOKS Abrams & Chronicle Books is the European arm of publishing houses Abrams, based in New York, and Chronicle Books, based in San Francisco. As a distributor of a wide range of illustrated books, gifts and stationery, highlights in the offering include an extensive backlist range, including iconic books such as Facepaint: The story of Makeup by Lisa Eldridge. ACE TEA LONDON Ace Tea London recently launched its Morris & Co. Tea Collection, featuring vibrant seaweed motifs on the packaging. Inspired by William Morris patterns, a bold range of flavours complement the design-led aesthetic of this collection. Available varieties include Hot Ginger, Green Tea, Royal Mint and Lady Rose. Each tea is enclosed in a specially crafted ‘tea stocking’.

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Retailer spotlight:

AWARDS SUCCESS FOR LEEDS INDIE Leeds indie Accent Clothing has been voted Best Fashion Retailer in the city at the recent Lifestyle Awards. Up against Flannels, The Chimp Store and Fabrication, Accent Clothing was awarded the accolade at the televised event, which was held at The Royal Armouries in the city centre. “We are very proud to have won this award, but without the continued support from our customers, it would not be possible,” says Becky Schneider, e-commerce manager.

LEICESTER BOUTIQUE REVEALS NEW LOOK Occasion and eveningwear store Divine Boutique has relocated, increasing its capacity and space by more than 30 per cent. The new store, located in Leicester, is a threestorey space with a floor dedicated to bridesmaids’ dresses and parties. Meanwhile, visitors can still shop the likes of Alyce Paris, Mori Lee, Jovani and Honor Gold. Co-owner Rosie Holmes, says, “It gives us an incredible space to showcase our collections – and, for the first time, we are able to offer a dedicated bridesmaids’ floor.”

Retail Forum The latest in-store news from the industry

HAVE YOU OPENED A NEW STORE , LAUNCHED A TRANSACTIONAL WEB SITE , ORGANISED AN EVENT OR HAVE ANY OTHER IN-STORE NEWS? THEN LET US KNOW BY GETTING IN TOUCH AT REBECCA . JACKSON@RAS-PUBLISHING.COM.

Web watch:

WWW.STANWELLS.COM

With a strong belief that the experience of shopping online should be as exciting as shopping in-store, Stanwells aims to offer the same level of presentation, customer service and brand mix to web customers as to its bricks and mortar ones. A cool brand catalogue and a diverse mix of designer labels are available: premium denim brands sit next to covetable, higher-end labels and power accessories, including the likes of Hudson, Buba London, Duffy Clothing, AG Jeans, Not Shy, Matchless and Chinti and Parker. Stanwells opened its doors in Lymington, Hampshire in 1996, and is recognised by Vogue UK as one of the best boutiques outside of London.

PENNITA WILSHIREBRUDENELL Pennita, Helmsley, North Yorkshire What is your current bestseller in-store? All of our brands have an effective contribution to our business, but the consistent bestseller is, without doubt, Joseph Ribkoff. Their presence is ever growing and we find it the best brand to entice new customers onto our mailing list. We have also now opened our first floor Joseph Ribkoff department to maximise this potential for growth. How have you found trading over the last month? Typically, November is a quieter month as the public start to close their wallets in preparation for Christmas and the a/w collections become a little more stagnant. The weather is yet to catch up with the s/s collections which are now filling up our rails. Fortunately, people go in search of winter sun. What have you been doing to drive traffic in-store? We have recently re-branded, the latest development being a soft launch of our new website, with a view to develop into an e-commerce site in early 2017. The opening of our Joseph Ribkoff department has boosted footfall, as well as a fashion show in partnership with Ribkoff and appointments for VIP Personal Shopping Days. What’s on your agenda for the coming month? Website, email and social media marketing campaigns are a focus for us as we begin to drive forward in order to see the benefits in s/s 17. We have also trialled a ‘Wish List’ campaign in time for the Christmas shoppers – a first at Pennita. For us, we find it always important to reinvent and bring something new to the table.

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Retail therapy: Share your retailing bugbears

COVENT GARDEN TRANSFORMS INTO AR SHOPPING DESTINATION

London’s Covent Garden has been transformed into the world’s first augmented reality (AR) retail district over the Christmas period. Over the festive season, more than 140 stores and restaurants in the area are introducing new AR applications. Meanwhile, special offers and deals can be unlocked through a series of immersive technology experiences, from swing tags on in-store items to the word’s first AR Christmas tree. Participating stores include Mulberry, Dior, Ted Baker, Paul Smith and The Watch Gallery.

DERYANE TADD Owner of The Dressing Room, St Albans, Hertfordshire Call me old fashioned, but I still cannot understand why the British high street has become a sea of discounting during the busiest shopping month of the year. Last year, figures released from the ONS confirmed that overall spend for December was down by 1 per cent month on month, largely due to discounting over a longer period of time. December for us was strong, we traded at +15 per cent for the month like for like. We stick to our usual principles of a great shopping experience coupled with product that our customers want. Here’s an idea: why don’t we all sell at full price when people are guaranteed to spend and then launch proper sales after Christmas? Just a thought.

COCO MARIE CLOSES DOORS Amersham womenswear store Coco Marie has ceased trading after 11 years in business. Stocking a mix of fashion focused labels including Becksondergaard, Second Female, Maison Scotch and Indi & Cold, the family-run store took the decision to close its doors recently. Co-owner Jen Garrity says, “It was such a tough decision to make but our suppliers and customers were all incredibly supportive and kind.”

Q&A:

What did you do before opening your boutique?

SUSIE PERKS

SALLY WHITE

VICTORIA REX

GAIL NIVEN

Owner, The Wardrobe, Alton, Hampshire

Director, White Boutique and White Bride, Narberth, Pembrokeshire

Director, The Women’s Society Boutique, Hertford, Hertfordshire

Director, Just g Boutique, Edinburgh

“I started my career in Liberty London on the shop floor. I loved it and it was the most fabulous place to work, but after two years I moved to H Samuels as buyer’s assistant. I moved to River Island as a junior buyer and then I finally moved to Oasis in 1998 and stayed there until my daughter Matilda was born in 2000.”

“I was in the Christmas gifts buying team at BHS. As all products were bespoke I learnt so much that I was able to use when opening the boutique. I’m very sad that it is no longer on the high street. Working there holds many happy memories.”

“I was a beauty therapist and needed a new challenge so I bought The Wardrobe as a dress agency. I have now changed it to stocking new clothing, as that is what I felt the town needed.”

“I worked in financial services in product development for 15 years. I’ve always loved fashion and helping friends find the perfect outfit, so opening my own boutique felt logical. The commercial experience and profit and loss management has certainly stood me in good stead with the business side of running a boutique.”

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Brand Directory 24Bottles 01420 89601 www.24bottles.com Abrams & Chronicle Books 020 7713 2060 www.abramsandchronicle.co.uk Ace Tea London 020 7096 1416 www.acetealondon.com Apanage 020 7584 4159 www.fosfashion.co.uk Barbara Lebek +49 2661 919 243 www.lebek.de Ba&sh 0033 1450 81415 ba-sh.com/uk Blue Flame 0800 612 9009 www.carolccollections.com Branche d’Olive 01235 771254 www.branche-dolive.com Cherith Harrison 07711 851 608 www.cherithharrison.com Co.Exist 07773 040697 www.mrandmrspagency.com Columbia 020 3216 0022 www.columbia.com Creenstone 020 7436 1701 www.creenstone.com Didriksons www.didriksons.com 01275 390451 Diego M 020 7580 5075 www.diegom.it Dom Goor 07773 040697 www.mrandmrspagency.com Eastpak 020 3137 3901 www.eastpak.com Fenella 01491 412444 www.fenellasmith.com Geox 020 7636 4207 www.partnersinfashion.com Glamorous 0161 832 9996 www.glamorous.com

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E-tail Clinic

Essential e-commerce advice The expert view: Top tips to improve effective customer feedback analysis and drive online sales

Web chat: JOANNA NICOLA Store owner, Oxygen Boutique, London, W1W When did you launch your website and is it transactional? We launched our transactional website in 2010, a year after we opened the shop on Eastcastle Street.

In business it is vital to fully analyse customer feedback to really optimise your online ordering funnels. Successful analysis of this data will help drive online sales. Here are 10 top tips:

What percentage of your business does your site constitute? Around 70 per cent.

1. Analyse all feedback. This may sound obvious, but it is vital that you actually analyse all the feedback you get – otherwise why bother collecting it. Some may contain information that could potentially be a major breakthrough for your business. 2. Categorise (and sub-categorise) feedback. You will find that feedback will start to fall into general categories – these could include the speed of your service (or lack of ), accuracy, courtesy and helpfulness of particular staff, price and choice of products, availability or location etc. Sorting feedback into categories will immediately show a wider picture. 3. Use negative and positive feedback. Inevitably feedback will range from complaints to (hopefully) high praise. It makes sense to divide the results using these criteria, as your response to each will vary greatly. It is worth pointing out that positive comments are just as valuable as complaints because they show you what pleases and excites your repeat customers. In a similar way, negative comments will highlight why customers leave and go to your competitors. 4. Look at root causes. Naturally you need to understand what is driving customer loyalty if you want to improve it and customer feedback will help you to do this. Therefore, it is useful to make the analysis of root causes a priority above settling more complex or niche problems reported by your customers. 5. Understand the value of the customer. All customers are valuable to your business, but some are more valuable than others. It is important to understand the value of a customer/group of customers so you can prioritise changes to your sales funnel or customer management regime. For example, some customers may only buy from you during a sale whilst more loyal customers will continue to buy from you on an ongoing basis. 6. Look for trends. Of all the criteria you use to analyse customer feedback, identifying trends is one of the most important. Trends will show where you are getting things right or wrong and will become even more important when your volume of feedback increases. 7. Don’t compare unrelated data. You may have an urge to compare different geographies, separate parts of the business or different survey results, but this can be very misleading. Taking results out of context can offer a distorted view. 8. Consolidate results and determine a plan of action. Once you have sorted through and understand the feedback results, it is time to put together a feasible and effective plan of action to address any issues. 9. Alert the right teams and individuals within your organisation. With all the insights from your collected feedback, it is important to ensure everyone involved with customer service and support is aware of the results. 10. Use automated tools to reduce your workload Hopefully your feedback process will prove to be popular with your customers and generate a high volume of results. If so, you might consider using specialised and automated tools to help you make sense of it, such as text and sentiment analysis. This will identify which words are used most and in which combinations, along with whether feedback is positive, neutral or negative. Kees Wolters, co-founder and managing director, Mopinion

Are you selling the same stock online as in-store? Yes, everything we sell online is also available to buy in-store. Is your e-commerce arm growing, and what is driving this growth? The e-commerce side of our business is growing daily, and is a hugely important element to our business. We rely on affiliate marketing, word of mouth and PR to drive our sales forward. What are your plans for the site and how would you like it to develop? We are constantly working on our user journey, ensuring the site is updated regularly and is as user friendly as possible. We develop our technology monthly and keep growing our customer database. We also make sure to update the site on a daily basis with new products to keep it fresh and interesting. Our customers are loyal and shop frequently, so we make sure we keep our site dynamic and desirable.

2million The number of consumers who have shopped online while drunk: among the most extreme drunken purchases were a £6,500 car, a didgeridoo and a snake.

Source: Flubit.com

Source: IMRG

The percentage by which online retail sales growth for 2016 is running ahead of expectation

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The Last Word with... Jeff Abrams, founder of LA label Rails You have a large celebrity following – has this helped build your business? Celebrity culture has been an integral part of our business, partly by choice and partly by circumstance. I started Rails at a time when celebrity influence was becoming exponentially more visible. Not only tabloids, but reputable fashion publications began covering celebrity lives and style. Soon after came the emergence and popularity of bloggers and social media channels which gave us a global audience. But this celebrity following has been very organic. We have never paid anyone to wear our products or to promote our brand. They are wearing the collection because they genuinely love the products. While it’s amazing to see influential celebrities in my brand, I now get more enjoyment from seeing more anonymous girls wear Rails in their everyday life. I was incredibly excited the first few times I spotted Rails on my travels abroad. You’re very successful in the UK. Do you feel British consumers ‘get’ your brand? Absolutely! Rails resonates with the metropolitan London lifestyle, as well as the suburban, boutique customer. The UK fashion and PR industry is highly regarded, as the home base for numerous tastemakers and influencers, whom we are lucky enough to call fans – they have all contributed to our global brand awareness. What inspired you to launch Rails? I grew up in Los Angeles immersed in the arts: painting, sculpture, photography, and a deep connection to the aesthetics of fashion. I was always thinking about how to express myself through a visual medium. But it was really in my young 20s living in Europe where I began to conceive what would become the Rails collection – blending a sophisticated European aesthetic with the innate effortlessness of the Southern California lifestyle.

Where do you see the brand developing? Over the years, Rails has grown from a domestic, categorydriven line to a contemporary, global lifestyle brand and we pride ourselves on building strong and long-lasting relationships along every stage of the business, and valuing our international markets as much as our domestic market. With each season, we continue to evolve by elevating our fabrications, silhouettes and style sensibility. We are excited to further expand our denim, jersey and cashmere wool sweater knit capsules, and develop the men’s and children’s categories into complete collections. We will continue to define our brand voice through strategic PR outreach, retail partnerships, capsule collections, and our first Rails flagship store.

How would you define the Rails style and how has this evolved over the years? At its core, the Rails brand reflects our Los Angeles home base. I wanted to add an element of indulgence to casual shirting, to see What is your personal style? Regardless of the season, I focus on wardrobe staples for a clean, our customer from day to night. versatile look. I’m always travelling, so keeping it simple lets me go straight from the plane to Most notably, the collection has press meetings. grown from a category focused line How do you unwind? While I am always connected to the business, it has allowed me to travel to a truly contemporary lifestyle the world. I travelled 250 days last year to Australia, Europe, Asia, and Canada. brand, rooted in luxe fabrications What are the three things on your bucket list? 1. Learn Mandarin 2. Go on a safari 3. Open Rails and our relaxed yet refined aesthetic. flagship stores around the globe. Each group adds a depth to the What’s your secret talent? Maybe it’s not a secret – but I consider it a super power – multitasking! collection in texture, colour, and shape that can easily be merchandised What is the best piece of business advice you’ve ever been given? There is no blueprint for creating a successful fashion brand. You need to follow your creative instincts, be innovative in back to our signature button downs a marketable way and try not to be everything to everyone. Don’t be discouraged by setbacks for a complete look. — use them as opportunities to become a better designer and business person. For more on Jeff Abrams and Rails visit www.wwb-online.co.uk