MWB MAGAZINE DECEMBER ISSUE 235

ISSUE 235 | DECEMBER 2016 | £6.95 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

THE EXHIBITIONIST YOUR GUIDE TO THE SHOWS TO VISIT THIS SEASON FLYING THE FLAG THE RETURN OF SPANISH LABEL LOIS THE YEAR THAT WAS THE NEWS STORIES FROM 2016

3

36 3,680 3,680 GREAT GREAT REASONS REASONS

J U SJTU ST H T ET HNEU N MUB M E RB EORF OS FI Z SE I ZAEN A D NFDI T F I T O PO T IP OTNI O S NAVA S AVA I L AIBL LAEB LI N E ISNK O SK PO E SP ES ST OS C TO KC K S E RSVE IRCVEI CS EU IST UPI TR O P RGOR G AM R AMME M E

All suitsAll mix suits and mixmatch and match Sizes from Sizes34-62 from chest 34-62 chest Waistcoat Waistcoat optionoption in every in colour every colour Suits for Suits every for budget every budget The perfect The perfect look for look every for occasion every occasion

For more For information more information pleaseplease contact contact SkopesSkopes Menswear Menswear on: on:

01130113 240240 22112211 Skopeswholesale.com Skopeswholesale.com

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | CONTENTS | 05

F E A T U R E S 12

Online Insider

Advice, news and issues online

14

Retail Insider

The latest in-store news

19

Product News

Rounding up the key stories this month

22

In-season stock

Hip to be square

24

In-season stock

Made in Chelsea

26

The year that was

MWB’s rundown of 2016

28

Cool hand Luke chalks up 15 years

What’s next for the young British brand

32

London Fashion Week Men’s

Focusing on the emerging talent to descend on the capital this season

34

Pitti Uomo

Highlights from Florence, including Paul Smith and Tim Coppens

37

Top Drawer

Ideas for home, gift, fashion and craft buyers this coming season

38

Panorama

MWB takes a look at the latest developments from the Berlin show

40

Seek & Bright

The latest offering from the contemporary German trade fairs

42

Jacket Required

The brands to catch at London’s largest menswear show

44

Moda

Our first look Moda Gent

46

Exhibition Calendar

The dates and locations of the key trade shows

48

The bull is back

Spanish label Lois makes its return

50

How to increase the profitability of your retail business

Essential advice from Thierry Bayle

R E G U L A R S 7 8 16

Comment News Interview

Anita Tillmann

52 55 58

Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With…

Ashlyn Chesney

Front cover: Noose & Monkey 020 7604 5946

c o n t Em p o r a ry fa s h i o n t r a d E s h o w

1 7 - 1 9 J a n u a ry 2 0 1 7 a r En a BEr l i n

w w w. s E E kEx h i Bi t i o n s . c o m

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | COMMENT | 07

COMMENT E D I T O R Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com — D E P U T Y

E D I T O R

Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — C O N T R I B U T O R S Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — W R I T E R Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com — D E S I G N E R S Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — S E N I O R

S A L E S

M A N A G E R

Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — S U B S C R I P T I O N S Phil Cowley phil.cowley@moda-exhibitions.co.uk — H E A D

O F

M E N S W E A R

Silvia Collins silvia@moda-uk.co.uk — E D I T O R I A L

D I R E C T O R

Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — P O R T F O L I O

D I R E C T O R

Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — M A R K E T I N G

D I R E C T O R

Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — M A N A G I N G

D I R E C T O R

Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com —

MWB is published 9 times per year by ITE Moda Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2016 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved.

Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither ITE Moda Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

Reprographics/printing Image Colourprint 01482 652323 —

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by ITE Moda Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. ITE Moda Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.

Although the concept of Black Friday – or Black Weekend as it’s fast becoming – has been wholly embraced by the UK since its introduction six years ago, shoppers continue to shun the queues and stampedes of the past to sit with a hot drink and order online in the warmth of their home.

— With a staggering £5.76bn spent over Black Friday weekend, including Cyber Monday, bargain-hungry shoppers were in their element as November drew to a close.

One of the biggest retail trends to emerge, it seems, was that more and more retailers, both online and offline, offered discounts well ahead of Black Friday. You only have to look at e-tail giant Amazon who launched its “35 Days of Black Friday” concept, while UK companies such as Argos and Tesco also offered deals as early as midNovember in order to capture as many potential consumers as possible.

Some retailers such as Ravi Grewal of iconic London indie Stuarts London, however, chose to steer away from putting too much focus on Black Friday sales – instead creating a curated collection of discounted pieces. “There will be nine pieces instore with a discount applied, and that’s it. I’m fortunate enough to not have surplus stock that I need to shift, but instead of ignoring the notion altogether, I decided to create a capsule Black Friday collection instore with only those nine items,” Grewal explains.

Our columnist Simon Carter, of the eponymous label, followed suit, with a very focused “seven items, for seven days, at 70% off” offer for his consumers, which worked extremely well.

Without doubt, the consumer is becoming increasingly savvy, monitoring the price of products they want to buy months in advance of Black Friday. Reports in fact show an 11 per cent jump in October researching product prices related to the day itself, compared to 2015.

Obviously, in retail, Black Friday has become a talking point for most, but this issue also takes a look at the other defining moments of 2016 – and what a twelve months it’s been. From Brexit to Trump, I suspect many will be glad to see the back of this year and sit in suspense at what 2017 could bring. Turn to p26 to read our rundown of the year that was.

This issue of MWB is also your first look into the new season, with product highlights, shows to catch and brand news for a/w 17. Our comprehensive exhibition calendar, which kicks off on p31, covers the must-visit domestic and international trade fairs, from London to Florence, Berlin and beyond.

As I draw to a close, I would just like to wish you all a very Merry Christmas, a prosperous festive selling season and I hope to see many of you in the New Year.

Victoria Jackson Editor

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | NEWS | 08

N E W S

ENCOURAGING FORECAST FOR XMAS TRADING

OVER HALF OF CONSUMERS EXPECT PRICES TO RISE IN NEXT SIX MONTHS UK consumers anticipate a bleak economy over the next six months, Verdict Retail’s latest poll of 2,000 UK consumers reveals. The survey shows that the future consumer sentiment index has fallen once again, as all three components – views on the economy, personal finances, and future retail spending – decline. The index plummeted 6.6 points on September to -32.9, driven by a sharp 10.1 decline on the UK’s economic outlook index. This index is expected to decline further as the uncertainty caused by the recent US election gave only a short-lived boost to the pound against the dollar and is now weakening once again.

October’s inflation index, which looks at consumer sentiment regarding price rises in sectors such as food, fuel and clothing, declined by 8.7 points on September, reaching its lowest level since November 2013. During October, the predicted price rises caused by a rapid depreciation of the pound became reality and Verdict predict that this index will fall once more as import costs increase.

According to the figures, 48.2 per cent of consumers anticipate the UK economy to worsen over the next six months, up 8.5 per cent from September.

More than half (51.7 per cent) of consumers expect prices to rise over the next six months, with the highest increases expected in supermarket food and fuel.

“Consumer sentiment has taken a significant knock over the last two months and with March 2017 (when the UK government is expected to invoke Article 50) looming ever closer, this index may see little improvement over the coming months.

Retailers are likely to have a particularly hard time as almost 50 per cent of consumers plan to spend less, compared to under a third of consumers planning to spend less this time last year,” says Zoe Mills, analyst at Verdict Retail.

The findings come amid last month’s Autumn Statement by Chancellor Philip Hammond, with key points including increased borrowing, forecast to be £122bn higher until 2021 than estimated in March’s Budget. Debt is set to rise from 84.2 per cent of GDP last year to 86.3 per cent this year, peaking at 90.2 per cent in 2017/19.

Growth forecasts by the Office for Budgetary Responsibility were upgraded to 2.1 per cent, from 2 per cent for this year, but are set to fall to 1.4 per cent from 2.2 per cent in 2017 as a result of the uncertainty caused by the Brexit vote and higher inflation due to the fall in sterling. Going forward, growth is forecast to be 1.7 per cent in 2018, 2.1 per cent in 2019 and 2020 and 2 per cent in 2021.

—

Total UK retail sales will grow 2.5 per cent in December 2016 to reach £42.2bn, according to estimations by market research provider, Mintel. UK consumers are keen to grab a bargain, with the research also revealing almost three in five UK gift buyers are seeking promotions so that they don’t need to pay full price for gifts. However, a quarter plan to choose Fairtrade gifts given the choice; 15 per cent opt for gifts that include a charity donation and a third buy British-made gifts if possible.

“The economic background for consumers continues to be favourable,” says Richard Perks, director of retail research at Mintel. “Real incomes are rising and unemployment is falling. There are some worrying signs: consumer credit has risen back to record levels and the housing market has weakened a little, but overall, the prospects for Christmas remain good."

—

MAKE IT BRITISH FORUM HAILED SUCCESS The first Make It British Forum held in Leicester has been hailed a success by organisers, delegates and guests, and will pave the way for more regional forums across the UK in the next year.

The occasion, which also attracted an online audience as it was streamed live from De Montfort University as part of the Leicester Business Festival, was launched by Make it British, the go-to resource for information on UK manufacturing and Britishmade brands founded by Kate Hills.

“This one-day event was aimed at businesses wanting to find out more about manufacturing fashion and textile products in the UK,” says Hills.

“We tackled fundamental issues, such as the likely impact of Brexit on the UK textile industry and how to attract more fashion graduates into manufacturing.”

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | NEWS | 09

NEWS IN BRIEF

SKILLS SHORTAGE HEADACHE FOR SME

ANTONY MORATO REVEALS ¤100M TURNOVER

With 50 per cent of small businesses with over five employees planning to grow their headcount over the next two years, finding skilled staff tops the list of challenges for business owners, according to a new report by UK independent venture capital investors, Albion Ventures.

The skills shortage is most acute among London-based small firms, followed by those in the south east and the north west. On a sector basis, SMEs in the manufacturing industry reported the highest level of concern about finding skilled staff, followed by those in technology & telecoms.

This is the first time that SMEs have identified a shortage of skilled staff as the biggest obstacle to growth, ahead of red tape and regulation in second and third place. Political uncertainty and leaving the EU were ranked in fourth and sixth place respectively.

—

Italian menswear label Antony Morato has recorded a €100m turnover, compared to €91m in the previous year. The positive result is primarily due to the expansion of its wholesale network in 2,500 stores worldwide, as well as the success of its retail channel, with 80 stores globally, 45 directly managed by the company.

The brand continues to grow on an international scale, with 70 per cent of total turnover coming from foreign markets. “We are exceptionally pleased with the results as we have made it our focus to continuously grow and develop in the areas of research, innovation and product development, whilst refraining from increasing our prices,” says Raffaele Caldarelli, brand president. “We continue to strengthen distribution within our key markets. In 2017 we will be opening four new directional showrooms in Germany and France,” he adds.

—

SAINT JAMES EMBARKS ON UK GROWTH

STOREFRONT LAUNCHES RETAIL MARKETPLACE IN LONDON

French lifestyle brand Saint James is looking to double its currently 50-strong wholesale base in the UK next year, with a London flagship store also part of the brand’s ambitious expansion plans.

President of Saint James, Luc Lesenecal, says the UK represents huge growth opportunities for the brand, with the aim to strengthen its distribution levels significantly. “Within Europe, the UK definitely represents a significant, and growing, part of our sales,” he says. “We're present through roughly 50 specialty stores, Saint James being often their main brand. Our ambition is to double that amount. We also intend to eventually open a flagship store in London,” he adds.

According to Lesenecal, the post Brexit vote devaluation of the pound against the euro will be absorbed by the company, ensuring that UK customers are not at a disadvantage.

—

Storefront, the global leader in short-term retail space rental, has launched into the UK market.

Dubbed the “Airbnb of pop-up space”, the company has worked with thousands of brands worldwide including Samsung, Etsy, Adidas and L’Oreal and is looking to offer access to space across London now.

Storefront specialises in matching a network of over 80,000+ brands from fashion brands to designers, retailers, e-commerce players, artists and start-ups, with commercial spaces across three continents.

“We are extremely excited to further expand Storefront in Europe,” says Mohamed Haouache, Storefront CEO and co-founder. “London is a fresh trendsetting market with tremendous opportunities for brands to gain exposure."

—

US TRADE SHOW FOR BRITISH BRANDS A new trade show that aims to help British brands expand into the US market is set to launch next year, held 13 to 14 March in Los Angeles. Source British is backed by UK exhibition organiser Upper Street Events and provides a platform for UK labels across fashion, accessories, shoes, homeware and gifts to access the US market and meet buyers from across the West Coast, Mid West and wider USA. Co-located with LA Fashion Market, the event has so far confirmed a number of British brands, including Mala Leather, Owen Barry, Sherene Melinda Ltd, Peak & Brim Designer Hats, Nadia Minkoff, Pandorella, Sarah Greaves Limited, Molly Mac and Fonz Leathers, and is said to have access to 4,000 US buyers and distributors.

The show is predominantly targeting heritage and contemporary collections across mid to high level price points with the aim to attract around 80 exhibitors for its first edition.

The event is the brainchild of Olivett Asare who has over eight years’ experience in conferences and exhibitions and has worked across some of the leading trade shows and launches in Europe.

Upper Street Events specialises in consumer-facing events, though it has run several trade shows in the past for other organisations. Source British is the first back by the company and is designed to give British brands a simple and affordable exhibition format to access and expand into the US market. For more information visit www.sourcebritish.com — JOHN LEWIS LEEDS John Lewis recently opened its doors in Leeds as the anchor to Hammerson's £150m Victoria Gate development. Representing a £37m investment, the 255,000 sq ft regional flagship has created 550 jobs locally and is one of the largest John Lewis shops outside of London.

As well as being the retailer’s most service and experience led store to date, the Leeds store stocks over 120 products from 11 local Yorkshire suppliers as part of the John Lewis’ Made Locally initiative in partnership with The Great British Exchange.

— JOULES OPENS CHELMSFORD STORE British lifestyle clothing brand Joules recently opened a new store in Derby, creating eight new jobs in the process.

To celebrate the opening, Joules offered ‘Early Bird’ queue prizes for the first shoppers to visit the store, including a £200 voucher for the first customer.

“We’re thrilled to open a new Joules store in Derby,” says brand founder, Tom Joule. “We are really looking forward to bringing our unique personality and style to shoppers over the coming months.”

— JACK WOLFSKIN OPENS IN LIVERPOOL ONE German outdoor brand Jack Wolfskin has opened a 3,000 sq ft store on Paradise Street in Liverpool ONE stocking its full range of clothing and accessories for men, women and children. The store opening coincides with the launch of a new brand campaign by Jack Wolfskin using the hashtag #MakeYourLifeUnforgettable. As well as being implemented across a range of media including a new television commercial, the campaign is the inspiration for the design of its Liverpool ONE store.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | NEWS | 10

NEWS IN BRIEF

BLEND HE LAUNCHES ATHLETICS COLLECTION

SAINSBURY’S TO FOCUS ON MENSWEAR OFFER

Blend He – which is part of the DK Company brand stable – has unveiled its latest development, Blend Athletics. Responding to the growing trend for athleisure across the fashion industry, the collection is a full look offer, with tops, bottoms, shoes and bags and will be available for s/s 17.

Running alongside the main Blend He collection, the design ethos of Blend Athletics is to bridge the gap between work wear and active wear in a stylish yet practical way.

Buyers can expect colourways such as charcoal, concrete melange and white, proving a graphic look with strong silhouettes. Functional detailing, meanwhile, includes zippers, mesh and reflective tapes. The full Blend Athletics collection can be viewed through leading UK agency Double H Agency www.doublehagency.com. For further information contact: peter@doublehagency.com.

—

Supermarket chain Sainsbury’s is expanding its Tu Clothing menswear range, as it cites the menswear market a “strong growth opportunity”.

The store’s menswear offer saw sales increase by 13 per cent in the six months to September 2016.

With research by Mintel showing that sales of men’s clothing is expected to reach £17.2bn in 2020, Sainsbury’s is seeing the development of its menswear offering as an “increasing priority”.

The retailer has added 17 new lines, representing a 33 percent increase in the range in the last six months, with wool-rich suits and blazers seeing a 75 percent sales growth. With that in mind, the supermarket launched two Harris Tweed men’s jackets in around 10 stores across the UK, as well as launching new premium lines such as 100 percent merino wool jumpers from sportswear brand Admiral, lambswool-rich knitwear and tailored suits.

—

DR. MARTENS OPENS NEW CONCEPT STORE

BLACK FRIDAY FAILS TO TEMPT CONSUMERS INSTORE

Iconic footwear label Dr. Martens is set to open a concept store and revamp its European headquarters. The British label will open a new, innovative concept store in Stables Market, Camden Town, London. The store is set to house a number of firsts for the brand, such as a music space developed together with Marshall and a footwear customisation area. It will also feature a virtual reality experience showcasing memorabilia from Dr. Martens, music legends and celebrities. The HQ, meanwhile, will be located in Camden Wharf, spanning 23,470 sq ft and uniting the three existing offices in Camden Town.

“Relocating our European head office to Camden Wharf allows us to get all our functional teams under one roof in an area long associated with the Dr. Martens brand,” says Steve Murray, CEO Airwair International Group, which operates the Dr. Martens brand.

—

Shoppers remained at home on Black Friday this year as sales shifted towards online spending.

Figures released by Springboard showed footfall dropping by seven per cent on the high street and five per cent at shopping centres compared to 2015.

Online sales, however, rose by up to 25 per cent.

Experts say that Black Friday and Cyber Monday, and the weekend in-between, have now become one event that takes place over the course of several days, with retailers increasingly determined to catch bargain-hunting shoppers.

Over the entire weekend, UK consumers are thought to have spent £5.67bn, an increase of 15 per cent on last year. Analysts say that the spending spree does not help retailers in the long run however, with many shoppers simply bringing their Christmas shopping forward and not spending more.

—

LONDON FASHION WEEK MOVES HOME The British Fashion Council (BFC) is set to move its two biannual events, London Fashion Week and London Fashion Week Festival to The Store Studios, located at 180 Strand, WC2, the home of London Fashion Week Men’s.

As part of the move, the event formerly known as London Fashion Weekend will be renamed London Fashion Week Festival and will run over a period of 10 days, twice a year, in February and September in an effort by the BFC to build consumer engagement with British designers.

The move to The Store Studios will fulfil the BFC’s ambition of creating a fashion and cultural hub in the heart of London. The Store Studios is a strategic location at the intersection of north, south, east and west London and offers easy access to the river as well as to main central areas such as Covent Garden and Southbank.

— CLARKS VILLAGE WELCOMES NEW BRANDS The White Company, Wonderbra and Gourmet Burger Kitchen are the latest high profile signings to designer outlet shopping centre Clarks Village in Somerset.

Providing luxury fashion and lifestyle products, The White Company has opened a 1,754 sq ft store, the brand’s fourth outlet within its portfolio, featuring a full range of clothing, homewares and accessories. Joining alongside is iconic lingerie brand Wonderbra, which will be unveiling an 864 sq ft store. These brands add to the premium lifestyle and fashion offer available at Clarks Village including Hobbs, Calvin Klein, Superdry, Joules and beauty retailer Molton Brown.

— FOLLI FOLLIE OPENS NEW CONCEPT STORE Accessory and jewellery brand Folli Follie has opened a new concept store on Regent Street, with interactive features and a contemporary look that are set to enhance the shopping experience. The new store portrays four new design elements: the sea of flowers, the aquarium showcase, the fantasy wall and the diamond cloud, achieved through statement graphics, luxurious marble flooring, rose gold furnishings as well as mirrored and transparent surfaces. The concept store will be rolled out worldwide, with imminent openings also due in Hong Kong, Tokyo, Beijing and Athens.

— NEW CHAPTER FOR DIESEL Diesel has opened the doors to its flagship store in Knightsbridge, two decades after it first arrived in the UK. The store showcases a new retail design concept, which sees a men’s and women’s offering intertwine with industrial steel fixtures and antique style furniture. A wine cellar-inspired space houses the menswear and denim offering, while womenswear is featured alongside textiles and interiors found in the brand’s interiors line, Diesel Living. A stainless steel and glass installation, high definition screens and a cement mortar façade designed to accelerate the air's natural oxidation all promote the 21st-century aesthetic. The twostorey flagship spans 230 sq m and is a collaboration between Japanese architecture firm Wonderwall and Diesel’s artistic director, Nicola Formichetti.

—

GENT A/W 17 19-21 FEBRUARY 2017 NEC BIRMINGHAM

Apply to exhibit or register for tickets at moda-uk.co.uk

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | ADVICE | 12

ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.

ADVICE: THE RUNWAY TO OMNICHANNEL SUCCESS: INNOVATION OVER RENOVATION

FRANK LOCHBAUM IS A MANAGING PARTNER AT KPS CONSULTING AND CAN BE CONTACTED VIA WWW.KPS.COM/EN.HTML

The omnichannel consumer is not a new concept to fashion retailers – far from it. They are well aware that these complex creatures no longer differentiate by channel, instead choosing to shop in the way that is most convenient to them at that moment in time; whether online, through a mobile or in a physical store.

However, the challenge many fashion retailers face is that they do not have the technology, infrastructure and processes in place to meet the varied and frequent demands that their customers place on their business.

This is not to say they aren’t investing in their infrastructure; many fashion retailers are already trying to extract greater functionality within their existing technology, or bolting on new capabilities to legacy systems.

However, this may be doing more harm than good.

To truly meet the needs of the omnichannel consumer, fashion retailers need to stop injecting their resources into enhancing out-of-date technology.

It may give them incremental gains, but it is only a temporary fix.

The only way to keep up with the continually changing demands of the modern shopper is to be innovative – something the fashion industry is famous for. But rather than under the bright lights of the catwalk, in this instance, innovation needs to happen backstage, behind the scenes.

Fashion retailers need to strip out technology that isn’t working, and future-proof their business infrastructure with new systems that can change and scale around the needs of their customers. More importantly, they need to overlay that investment with best practice processes, which ensure they are using their technology more effectively than the competition.

This concept of innovation over renovation will prevent retailers from wasting resources on systems that are actually holding them back. And by implementing better tech and stronger processes in a single project, they will see rapid and tangible results in terms of how quickly and efficiently they can respond to omnichannel consumer demands.

It’s a bold and brave move, but fashion – more than any other retail sector – knows the value of daring to be different.

—

NEWS

WWW.DANDYFELLOW.COM

MAJORITY OF MILLENNIALS MISTRUST ONLINE RETAIL SECURITY New research released by LexisNexis Risk Solutions has revealed UK millennials have growing security concerns around sharing personal information with retailers.

The report, entitled UK Millennial Study: Privacy vs. Customer Experience in Retail, shows that despite millennials being digitally connected via smartphones and laptops, more than half are concerned about having their identity stolen through online or mobile/app-based activities.

The research also found that 84 per cent of millennials do not believe that their personal information is fully protected online.

Despite this, 89 per cent of millennials are still shopping online at home, with nearly half on their smartphone and 29 per cent on their tablet.

Worryingly, 93 per cent also expressed that they do not fully trust retailers with their data, possibly suggesting that because millennials are task-rich and time-poor, the convenience and flexibility online shopping offers still prevails. In fact, UK retailers are predicting that online shopping will contribute to one of the biggest shopping days this festive season, with revenues set to hit £901m.

“These findings highlight the unease that many millennials feel about information sharing, particularly when it comes to online and mobile transactions,” says Steve Arnison, director, LexisNexis Risk Solutions. “Retailers today must recognise that customer privacy concerns will continue to increase as society becomes more digitally connected. As such, businesses will need to take proactive measures now to protect their customers’ best interests and meet the demands of an increasingly digitally savvy customer base.”

Established by the team behind award-winning independent retailers Stuarts London, menswear retailer Dandy Fellow has recently undergone a website rebranding. Developed for the younger, more trend-led consumer, the store features labels such as Adidas Y-3, Norse Projects, Baxter of California and Wood Wood among many more.

With a distinct editorial design, the website has an easy to use navigation and features strong lifestyle imagery throughout.

—

BHS.COM UNVEILS CLOTHING LINE The first clothing collection from BHS.com is being rolled out, following the autumn relaunch of BHS.com itself. A small number of items are available, with plans to significantly ramp up the number of options going forward. A kids’ range launched on 11 November, with a collection of licensed character products.

Since relaunching at the end of September, BHS.com has quickly rolled out more lines to build momentum in the UK retail market, including a Christmas range, and kitchen and dining ranges.

WEB WATCH

Riva del Garda - Italy Exhibition Centre - Via Baltera 20 Tel. +39 0464 520000 Fax +39 0464 570130

www.exporivaschuh.it

#ExpoRivaSchuh

With the support of:

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 14

RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry.

—

VIEWPOINT WILL ROWE is the CEO and founder of Protein, a company which helps businesses to grow and develop by understanding consumer trends and behaviour.

7LIVERPOOL CONCEPT STORE DEBUTS IN LIVERPOOL ONE Independent fashion retailer 7Liverpool has made its debut in Liverpool ONE. Trading across 1,200 sq ft, the store opened on 3 November on Liverpool ONE’s Paradise Street. 7Liverpool draws its branding directly from the city’s own heritage, founded upon the seven streets that linked directly to the famous Liverpool port over 800 years ago. The unique concept of the store showcases an expertly curated variety of menswear products, including Adidas Originals, Kenzo, Android Homme and Mason Garments.

“Host to a select range of limited releases from highly sought-after labels, 7Liverpool sets a new precedent in terms of product offering, space aesthetic and shopping experience,” says Jack Spellacy, buying director, 7Liverpool. “Our store represents the end of the era of bland presentation and delivery that has gone on for far too long. Launching on Paradise Street is a dream come true for us and it is great to be a part of the local fashion heritage that inspired this new concept,” he adds.

7Liverpool follows the opening of Jack Wolfskin, Lindt, Smiggle and Foot Asylum on Paradise Street, with Rolex and Urban Decay both set to open their doors this month.

— NEWS IN BRIEF BRITISH LAND SUBMITS £300M APPLICATION FOR MEADOWHALL British Land, joint owner of Meadowhall in Sheffield, has submitted a detailed planning application to Sheffield City Council for a £300m Meadowhall Leisure Hall. Meadowhall is one of the strongest retail destinations in the UK and the proposed extension forms part of a five-year vision to extend the leisure offer at the centre. The extension is the next phase of Meadowhall’s evolution and will follow a £60m refurbishment which is underway and due to complete at the end of 2017. It also builds on the successful leasing strategy, which has seen Ghost, Michael Kors, Diesel and Urban Decay open stores at the centre in recent months.

—

H&M SIGNS FIVE STORE DEAL WITH WESTFIELD STRATFORD Swedish fast fashion chain H&M has signed a major five store deal at Westfield Stratford City. Already boasting a successful store at the shopping mall, H&M will relocate and expand its offering to become a full concept flagship store totalling 70,000 sq ft. On completion, Westfield Stratford City will be the company’s largest store in the UK offering all concepts, including the brands own Home and Beauty ranges. The opening is scheduled for spring 2017. The H&M Group has more than 4,100 stores in 62 markets including franchise markets.

—

Every year in our annual Audience Survey we ask our global early adopters a question: do you purchase more items online or in store?

While the figures have been inching closer, for the first time this year we saw online purchases overtake in store. Figures reveal 52% prefer to buy online. But it doesn’t have to be one versus the other, rather understanding the comparative advantages each offers. We dove deeper with our questioning and discovered 61% of the Protein Audience would rather spend money on experiences than products and 64% want an instore experience to connect them with the local community. The responses saw an overwhelming desire for connection, community and experience, but how can retail capitalise on this?

Above all else, when a brand decides to action any of these desires it’s vital it aligns with their core brand values. Dove recently launched the #MyBeautyMySay campaign, an online platform that highlights the judgemental comments women experience about their appearance. It encourages women to participate using the hashtag, allowing a community to thrive off the back of negative incidents. The reason it works is that Dove has spent years carving a space for itself in the female empowerment territory. It’s in line with the values the brand is built on.

A fashion brand that has fostered a physical community space is COS. The Swedish retail chain teamed up with bookstore project The Book Society for its Cheongdam store in Seoul, South Korea. It turned the passive experiences of shopping on their head by providing a reading area, bookstore and exhibition space for people to use in between shopping.

A brand isn’t what you tell people it is, it’s what people tell each other it is. If you can nurture a community and show them the values of your brand, you provide an opportunity for the audience to identify with those values. And if there’s something they identify with, they’re going to want to share that with their friends – their community.

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 15

SHOPPED: PHILIP BROWNE What anniversary are you currently celebrating?

It’s 30 years, I can’t believe it. Behind my back, the entire crew – led by our website photographer Kev Foster, and my son George Browne – has produced the most fabulous book to celebrate it. It’s called 1001 Pieces of Shit. Seriously, it’s the most wonderful thing I’ve ever seen.

What’s that all about?

Over the years, I have collected small objects and items from my travels, which have piled up in our offices. There are robot toys, cigarette lighters, snow globes, concert tickets and even a PHILIP BROWNE, OWNER, PHILIP signed Polaroid photo of Alexander McQueen. I sold his stuff BROWNE MENSWEAR, for five years before he became big. They meticulously NORWICH photographed, catalogued and self-published it all as a book that they gave me on our anniversary day in November. It brought tears to my eyes. It’s like an abstract piece of art. They even made a limited range of T-shirts featuring selected photographed items, which sold in the shop for £39. Customers came in all day and all night for drinks – until 1.30am. Some people call that partying, I call it retailing.

Have you also done a special 30th window display?

We’ve put ‘30’ on the window and displayed some select items we’ve sold down the years, taken from my own wardrobe. There are pieces from the original John Richmond Destroy range from the 1980s, items from Alexander McQueen’s third ever collection, John Galliano original pieces, and one of the first Duffer of St George football shirts, which were massive in the 90s. We sold hundreds of those.

IN FOCUS: SIGNATURE MENSWEAR 349 UNION STREET, CITY CENTRE, ABERDEEN AB11 6BT

ESTABLISHED: 1988 BRANDS: ARMANI JEANS, C.P. COMPANY, CIRCLE OF GENTLEMEN, CITIZENS OF HUMANITY, ELLIOT RHODES, ETON, GANT, HUGO BOSS, LACOSTE, OLIVER SWEENEY, PAUL & SHARK, RALPH LAUREN, SAND, SEBAGO, SEVEN FOR ALL MANKIND, TED BAKER, VICTORINOX

DUKE & DEXTER OPENS IN SEVEN DIALS Premium footwear label Duke & Dexter has launched its first UK store in Seven Dials, London.

Located at 16 Earlham Street, the store features the brand’s full range of bold designs and includes a lounge area and coffee bar to the back of the store – as well as a dedicated space where customers can create their very own unique and embossed shoes.

Designed in London and handcrafted in Sheffield, Duke & Dexter is currently stocked in Harvey Nichols, Selfridges and Liberty, as well as retailers in over 100 countries worldwide.

“Our heritage is the basis for the success of our brand and Seven Dials as a location mirrored our ethos perfectly,” says Archie Hewlett, founder of Duke & Dexter. “We are amongst great international brands and are thrilled to be making our debut here on Earlham Street in the heart of London’s West End.” — NEWS IN BRIEF

Opened by Patrick Ritchie back in 1988, Signature Menswear is a part of the fabric of Aberdeen city centre – in the west end of the high street. The original shop, at 349 Union Street, has more contemporary, formal fashion and lifestyle brands, while Signature 2, up the road at 256 Union Street, is more casual and jeans based. Shop manager Robbie Wallace, who has worked at Signature for the last nine years, says they are very passionate about every brand they stock, and they spend a lot of time and focus selecting key pieces from each brand that represents local demands. They are currently having an especially good time with “specialist” brands such as Eton shirts and Hiltl trousers, as well as the bigger brands such as Ralph Lauren, Gant and Boss. In terms of new brands in this season, Signature has revisited Sand, which Wallace is very happy with. He says, “We’ve brought it back in after sitting it out for a couple of seasons, and it has performed above and beyond expectation – with the blazers standing out as a key performer. In Signature 2, we are having our first season with C.P Company, and that, too, has sold really well.” All staff members at Signature are local, and Wallace says they are on a first name basis with a lot of their loyal customers.

—

ACCENT CLOTHING VOTED BEST FASHION RETAILER IN LEEDS Iconic Leeds indie Accent Clothing was voted Best Fashion Retailer in the city at the recent Lifestyle Awards. Up against Flannels, The Chimp Store and Fabrication, Accent Clothing took the accolade home at the televised event, which was held at city centre location, The Royal Armouries. “We are very proud to have won this award, but without the continued support from our customers, it would not be possible,” says Becky Schneider, e-commerce manager. “We would like to thank everyone who voted for us and an extended thank you goes to the Made In Leeds team for putting together such a fabulous event.”

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | INTERVIEW | 16

INTERVIEW

ANITA TILLMANN Berlin is still very much on the buying map. With Premium, Seek and Bright leading the way, each with a different appeal to cater for varying needs, Anita Tillmann, co-owner and founder of the Premium Group, tells Tom Bottomley about the modern relevance of trade shows, and why Berlin is a must.

— Tom Bottomley: When and why did you initially launch the Premium trade show?

Anita Tillmann: It was in 2003 with the aim to really revolutionise the trade show concept. It was all about customer centred strategies and concepts. It was the first time, in Europe at least, that men’s, women’s, denim and accessories were put together in one show. All relevant product for the buyers in the premium sector. The portfolio was curated, while the usual trade show formats at that time were just selling square metres to brands.

— TB: How has Premium grown?

AT: We started with 70 brands in January 2003.

By the July 2003 show, we had 160 exhibitors.

Then, in 2005, we moved in to the STATIONBerlin property, which we’ve owned since 2007, and where we still are now. We now have in excess of 1,000 exhibitors. We’ve worked on the concept of the show constantly. We analyse the market, and we are in constant dialogue with the buyers and our exhibitors. We do everything to make the buyers happy and to maximise the whole customer journey and experience. We put a lot of effort into it – both financially and emotionally.

— TB: Do you think that the Premium show of today is more like a traditional trade show given the way it has grown?

AT: Not at all, because the work we do, as a basis for each show and each season, is completely different from traditional shows. The usual trade show format has always been about the brands

CO-OWNER AND FOUNDER PREMIUM GROUP

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | INTERVIEW | 17

who are able to pay the most in order to get the biggest stands. We don’t follow that strategy at all. For us, it is about putting the right brands together by themes, and creating the right feel and ambience to guarantee that brands can transport their brand image. We put a lot of thought into how the buyers experience the show.

— TB: Is technology now playing a larger part in your communication with buyers?

AT: We have an app, which you can automatically use when you register for the show. You can put in all the requirements you have, the brands you want to see and get recommendations for new brands if you wish. With this you can prepare your trip to Berlin in advance in a very professional way. On top of that, there’s an integrated GPRS system to guide you through the halls when you are in Berlin. To make the stay more convenient, the app includes all information about all the Premium Group’s shows which makes it easier to see what you need to in the time you have, making the visit more efficient – especially if you also need to get to another trade show in Berlin.

— TB: Seek is also another of your show concepts; how did that come about?

AT: Seek started as a side area next to Premium.

It’s grown very organically, focusing on a completely different community. The exhibitors and buyers are part of that community. It’s not only business, it’s a lifestyle. Seek focuses more on smaller and new brands, or more niche market brands. It creates a whole different world which needs to be kept separate from Premium. Seek is definitely more in line with the original Premium concept.

— TB: What is your general view of trade shows?

AT: Trade shows are marketplaces, and they mirror what’s going on in the market. In the best case, they guide the industry through changing times. So, you always have to question your own concept and adapt. You have to be very flexible and always strive to be better, much like retail businesses need to. Some of the bigger brands that certain trade shows were heavily reliant on, don’t even do trade shows any more. They changed their distribution strategy, and that can have a knock-on effect for a trade show. But it’s not all about the big brands, it’s the mix of big and

smaller, traditional and innovative, young and established brands that makes an assortment vibrant.

— TB: Do you still believe trade shows are still the most relevant format to view collections?

AT: Yes, I do. First of all, there is nowhere else in Europe that gives a complete overview of the contemporary fashion world for men, women, accessories, denim, sportswear, outerwear and shoes. All visitors get all the information and inspiration at the beginning of the season. It’s the gathering of the industry, and you meet and talk to relevant business people. Everybody in the industry comes together; brands from all over the world, buyers from all the big department stores, and buyers from multiples and small independents. It’s about having a physical exchange. It’s still a ‘people business’.

— TB: Why do you think retailers should still visit Berlin for the trade shows?

AT: Everybody is more than welcome. Our shows are more customer-focused and service orientated than anywhere else. We really take care of the brand portfolios as well as the buyers’ needs. They can have personal guidance through the shows if needed. From my perspective, every store should offer an individual product range to tell a story to their customers. It’s all about creating a new impact, and if you want to see new stuff you should come to Berlin and see Premium, Seek and Bright.

— TB: What do you think the future holds?

AT: Maybe the way we present collections will change. Perhaps we will show collections via virtual reality. I think there will be a mix of things.

What I know is, it’s important to keep up with the changes in the industry as well as with new developments. Therefore, we also run #Fashiontech, the conference on the future of fashion which focuses on three big topics: E-commerce & Future of Retail, Wearables & Design, as well as Digital Marketing & Communications. It’s a networking event that brings together all relevant people from both the fashion and technology industries, in order to find innovative solutions for your business or to create new business models. Today, #Fashiontech is the biggest event of its kind in Europe.

—

TB: Do you think online developments are important?

AT: Yes, online is very important. You can use online business to leverage your business. What we are currently working on is to find the perfect digital platform to match our physical show experience in order to help both buyers and brands to create more business throughout the season. It’s like physical shopping and online shopping – they are both rewarding for different reasons. It’s not about replacing one with the other, but rather to combine both models in a smart and targeted way.

— TB: What prompted the acquisition of the Bright street and board sports show in July 2015?

AT: It’s time for consolidation in the market.

Buyers were complaining that they had to see so many different things in different places. By structuring the offer, we help them to structure their visit. We help to develop the concepts and take care of the whole back end of the shows, while the show founders take care of their product.

— TB: How is Premium show split between men’s and women’s these days?

AT: Men’s used to be about 40 per cent at Premium, women’s and accessories about 60 per cent. But now with the growth of Seek and with Bright strongly focused on menswear, I’d say men’s at Premium now represents more like 26 per cent.

— TB: Is the plan for Seek and Bright to remain separate, or merge?

AT: They will remain separate as regards their concepts. Bright is about streetwear, urban hip hop, outdoor aesthetics as well as board sports, while Seek focuses on urban contemporary as a whole. For the next show they will close ranks due to tunnels that link the two areas together. We believe that buyers in Seek should take inspiration from collections in Bright, and vice versa.

— TB: Are you planning on growing your trade show business outside of Berlin?

AT: For the moment it’s all about Berlin.

Consolidation of the market is a big topic right now, and that’s what we’re doing in Berlin. But thinking forward, we will look at expanding in Europe, and possibly to the US.

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | PRODUCT NEWS | 19

P R O D U C T

DARK TURNS AND SHARP CUTS Contemporary tailoring label Noose & Monkey returns for the new season with its most comprehensive collection yet. Eveningwear remains its strongest category, from florals to velvets, blazers to three-piece suits, the brand puts the focus on statement pieces. Highlights of the range include a gold leopard print velvet jacket, alongside a faux pony hair blazer in dark leopard print. In terms of tailoring, Noose & Monkey introduce three new styles, the Glasgow – a red check two-piece featuring a peak lapel, constructed in 100 per cent British wool, the Leeds – a double breasted blazer, in red and black large check with chain detailing on the jacket, and finally, the Manchester – a monochrome three-piece, constructed in wool blend with a shawl lapel.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | PRODUCT NEWS | 20

RADAR Spotlighting style

SUMMER FLING

ASHLEY WATSON ESTABLISHED: September 2014 SIGNATURE STYLE: Functional clothing engineered for travel by road. Pieces are made to be hardwearing, reliable and essential for any trip.

To cater for midsummer temperatures, German label Mey puts a strong focus on its fourth delivery segment for s/s 17. The beachwear collection comprises nine styles of functional shorts with integrated briefs in different designs.

Incorporated into the centre back are eyelets to prevent the shorts from ballooning in the water, as well featuring an inside pocket, a zippered back pocket and slip pockets at the sides. Finally, an elasticated waistband with integrated drawstring makes them a must-have for the summer season.

—

HISTORY: Menswear designer Ashley Watson founded the eponymous label after working in-house for Ted Baker and then freelance for various UK labels.

Inspired by the freedom of exploring on two wheels, each item in Ashley Watson’s eponymous collection is made to be functional, hardwearing, reliable and an essential part of any trip. The collection centres around the idea of travel, with pieces in the range including baseball caps, jackets, overshirts and leather accessories, typically aimed at men who enjoy exploring off the beaten track, and who have an interest in how and why their clothing is made. Next year, the brand takes a more technical direction with the launch of its Eversholt Motorcycle Jacket. Made in England from a lightly waxed cotton, a film laminate and sealed seams make this garment fully waterproof. A drop liner made from Dyneema, a fabric often used by both the military and police, is used alongside removable elbow, shoulder and back armour – which is constructed from a flexible composite that hardens on impact. The jacket was tested by Watson during a 4,000-mile motorcycle expedition, riding through some of toughest climates and terrains in Europe. The label is currently stocked in UK menswear stores including Our Daily Edit, Brighton, Spoke & Stringer, Bristol, and The Bike Shed, London. The label also has presence in Belgium and can be found in Hermanus, Bruges. Wholesale prices average at £55.

—

INVESTING IN LUXURY Luxury men’s lifestyle brand Thomas Clipper is seeking public investment to help bring new products to market. Founded in November 2014 by Matt Brown and Tony Weiss, the brand has launched nine men’s grooming products through three successful Kickstarter campaigns, one of which was among the fastest ever funded in the platform’s product design category.

Stocked in Fortnum & Mason, as well as over 35 countries worldwide, Thomas Clipper is looking for investment through Seedrs, the equity crowdfunding platform, inviting those with an interest in the products to invest in the company from as little as £10. Backers will have a say in the development of new lines, as well as receiving a percentage stake in the business.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | PRODUCT NEWS | 21

PRODUCT NEWS FROM SWEDEN TO SOUTH AFRICA For s/s 17 Elvine draws on South Africa for its inspiration.

Minimalistic garments, typically associated with the Swedish label’s aesthetic, incorporate all-over prints and loose fits for the warmer season. Items in the collection are made to be mixed and matched without limitations, encouraging bold colours and different cuts to come together in the same outfit.

Elvine has also collaborated with South African jewellery designer Pichulik to create a jewellery capsule collection, which is the first time the brand has included the category within its collection.

—

THE ORIGINAL SLACK Throughout the 70s, 80s and 90s Farah was notorious for its original hopsack slack. Slim cut and sharply tailored, the trouser was unlike anything available at the time. With its now famous ‘F’ tab giving the wearer instant status, the Farah slack was a must-have garment for the style tribes of British youth; most notably the 1980s casual’s trouser of choice; worn on the terraces across the country. Now, with the launch of a new contemporary hopsack collection, featuring not only the classic trouser, but a range of shirts, jackets and blazers, Farah reimagines their signature fabric for a new generation of men to create their own unique take on an icon.

The Hopsack capsule collection sees Farah nod to its original slack with the new Denby trouser; creating a modern take on a classic piece. Providing an update on a wardrobe staple is the Kinch Zip Through shirt; with a dropped hem, extended collar tab and aluminium finish zip.

—

>>>

STYLE HIGHLIGHT

STOW Inspired by intrepid explorers across the centuries, Stow is an evolving collection of unique luxury travel accessories. Crafted from the highest quality buttersoft leather, delicately moulded phone charger cases, jewellery rolls and trinket boxes are designed to answer both the practical and style needs of the modern traveller. Launched in 2013, Stow is a labour of love for founder Carol Lovell, with each piece handmade by craftsmen in the Spanish pueblo blanco of Ubrique, one of Europe’s leading centres in the production of luxury leather accessories.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 22

REMUS UOMO £84.50 0333 456 7777

SKOPES £58.50 0113 240 2211

MADDOX STREET LONDON £80 01442 233700

DUKE £20 0115 977 0009

DOUGLAS & GRAHAME £89.50 0333 456 7777

SIMON CARTER PRICE ON REQUEST 020 8683 4475

BARBOUR £108 0800 917 3000

HIP TO BE SQUARE Lending themselves to all manner of designs, checks continue to grab the attention of both the fashion pack and the traditional gent. From window panes to Prince of Wales, checks are used this season to breathe new life into tailoring.

— Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

BAUMLER £75 0113 244 2244

SCOTCH & SODA £111.50 020 3137 3901

MAGEE £93 028 2564 6811

INDX MENSWEAR AW17

A bespoke trade show exclusively for indie retailers

1-2 February 2017

• Atelier Torino • Baileys • Ben Green • Benetti • Ben Sherman • Blue Tide • Boardmans • Brakeburn • British Boxers • Bruhl • Camel Active • Casamoda • Club of Comfort • Craghoppers • Crew Clothing • Cyberjammies • Dice • Digel • Double Two • Failsworth • Farah Jeans • Friends • Fulton • Fynch Hatton • Gas Monkey Garage • Gianni Conti • Giordano • Glenmuir • Goodwin Smith • Gurteen • Hattric • Herbie Frogg • HJ Hall • Hunt & Holditch • Jack Wolfskin • Jockey • Joules • Kangol • Levi’s • Lizard King • Lloyd Attree • Meyer • MM&S • MMX • Original Penguin • Osan • Peter England • Peter Gribby • Peter Werth • Redpoint • Rocola • Rupert & Buckley • Scott by The Label • Seidensticker • Skopes • Souled Out • Tootal • Totes • Tresanti • Trespass • Urban Beach • Venti • Viyella • Weird Fish • Wolsey • Wrangler

Plus many more

REGISTER

ONLINE

NOW www.indxshow.co.uk FREE FREE FREE FREE

ENTRY REFRESHMENTS LUNCH ON SITE PARKING

Cranmore Park Exhibition Centre, Cranmore Avenue, Shirley, Solihull, B90 4LF T: 0121 683 1417

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 24

URI MINKOFF PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7490 7394

CAMEL ACTIVE £45.85 01642 677222

JUSTIN REECE £37.50 020 8809 7052

MADE IN CHELSEA

BARKER PRICE ON REQUEST 01604 810387

A smart and versatile option, the Chelsea boot continues to reign as king in the footwear category this winter. A staple in many brands’ offer, the coming months see the timeless classic updated with contrasting elasticated sides, thin streamlined soles and coloured suede uppers.

—

LOAKE £88.50 01536 415411

BASE LONDON £32.48 020 8532 0000

CHATHAM £54.20 01392 822981

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

R.M. WILLIAMS £157 01767 601145

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | THE YEAR THAT WAS | 26

2016: THE YEAR THAT WAS From Brexit to the demise of BHS, the last twelve months have brought many changes within the retail industry. MWB takes a look over at the moments that stood out in menswear during 2016.

— FEBRUARY BURBERRY CHANGED RUNWAY AND RETAIL COLLECTIONS

JANUARY INDUSTRY FIGURES RECOGNISED IN NEW YEAR LINE UP

Burberry announced plans to change the way it creates, presents and sells its runway collections, replacing its current four-show calendar with two shows.

Seasonless, immediate and personal, the new format and calendar were designed with a global audience in mind.

Furthermore, the collections are now available to purchase in-store and online immediately following the show, in a move that significantly shortens the traditional gap between the runway show and retail availability.

—

A number of key industry figures were named in the Queen’s New Year’s Honours list, including Natalie Massenet, founder of Net-a-Porter and chairman of the British Fashion Council, who has been made a Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire, or DBE, for services to the fashion and retail industries. Other recipients included Angus Cundey, chairman of Savile Row tailoring business Henry Poole & Co, who received an MBE for services to bespoke tailoring.

—

APRIL BHS GOES INTO ADMINISTRATION MARCH BUSINESS RATES CUT FOR SMALLER BUSINESSES A change in business rates was announced by Chancellor George Osborne during the Budget, with the tax being scrapped for properties with a rateable value of £15000 or less. This change will come into effect permanently in April 2017, and is set to take 600,000 small businesses out of the business rate system. However, thousands of firms in England and Wales are set to see dramatic changes to the amount they pay, after the government published new “relatable values” of their properties. Increasing property values in parts of London and the South East over the past few years mean that business rates there will be much higher. In areas where property prices have fallen, bills will be lower.

—

MAY CRAIG GREEN WINS BFC/GQ FUNDING In May earlier this year, British designer Craig Green was announced as the winner of the third BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund, supported by Vertu. Green founded his eponymous label after graduation from Central Saint Martins MA Course in 2012 and has been dubbed one of the most exciting designers to enter the menswear industry in recent years.

—

High street chain BHS entered administration, with over 11,000 jobs lost and 164 stores closed nationwide. In the months that followed, the Pensions Regulator began enforcement action against former owner Sir Philip Green in a bid to end the pensions crisis surrounding the collapsed retailer, while in September BHS.com launched in September, selling homeware and clothing.

—

JUNE BREXIT: THE DAY THE UK CHOSE TO LEAVE The main news story of 2016 was undoubtedly the UK voting to leave the European Union. The results saw David Cameron resign as Prime Minister, with former Home Secretary Teresa May stepping into the role.

Although Article 50 has yet to be triggered, the fashion industry prepares itself for changes to the free trade movement and a weaker pound, already seeing an increase in manufacturing and production costs.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | THE YEAR THAT WAS | 27

AUGUST CONFIDENT FORECAST REIGNS AT JACKET REQUIRED

JULY MENSWEAR TO SPEARHEAD £3.2BN GROWTH The UK’s value clothing market is set to grow by £3.2bn over the next five years, with the forecast 2021 market value equating to 23.6 per cent growth on the 2016 figure, according to a report released by retail research and analysis firm Verdict Retail. The report states that the menswear segment will be the main driver, outpacing womenswear with its forecast growth of 29.2 per cent by 2021.

—

Talk of Brexit fears and a tough summer season of trading were brushed aside at Jacket Required’s latest edition at The Old Truman Brewery. Brands and retailers alike seem keen to move forward and remain optimistic. Andy Tomsett, Head of UK at Merc, saw some of his best European customers at the show. “We’ve had another two accounts in from Holland putting down their s/s 17 orders, plus I’ve seen a customer from Germany and another from Switzerland. As no one is now going to Berlin, and sterling is more ‘interesting’ for the Europeans, we need to get more foreign buyers here.”

—

SEPTEMBER STYLE.COM OPENS VIRTUAL DOORS Condé Nast, publisher of Vogue and GQ, launched a new luxury e-commerce destination, Style.com. Built on pioneering technology and artificial intelligence, the site adapts the shopping experience to the individual customer; readers can click instantly to buy edits from Style.com’s editorial content, as well as selected content from British Vogue, GQ and Condé Nast Traveller.

—

NOVEMBER DONALD TRUMP BECOMES PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES Businessman and reality TV star Donald Trump was announced as the next President of the United States on 9 November 2016.

A win that shocked many, pundits had originally predicted an easy triumph for Democratic rival Hillary Clinton. Trump will be sworn into office on 20 January 2017.

—

OCTOBER RESIDENT SHOWROOM TO LAUNCH IN PARIS Jacket Required founders Mark Batista and Craig Ford joined forces with former Edwin Europe brand director Pierre Boiselle to launch a new contemporary trade show in Paris. Located in the Bastille area of the capital, Resident Showroom will run as both a trade exhibition and showroom concept, opening with 15-20 brands. The debut edition will take place on 17-19 January 2017, with the main trade show days running on 20-22 January 2017.

—

DECEMBER CONSUMERS TURN ONLINE FOR FESTIVE SHOPPING Moving away from the frenzy of last year, festive shopping saw a much calmer approach as consumers shelved the high street and turned to online sales. The UK Retail Traffic Index, published

by Ipsos Retail Performance, saw footfall drop by 0.7 per cent on last year. However, Black Friday still delivered a considerable boost to footfall levels, which were 62 per cent higher than the previous Friday. Around the regions, stores in North East England saw the largest drop in footfall levels against last year, at -8.1 per cent, far greater than anywhere else. In contrast, both Wales and London benefited from larger number of shoppers this year than last.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | INTERVIEW | 28

COOL HAND LUKE CHALKS UP 15 YEARS Launched in 2001, the Luke menswear brand has racked up 15 years of success. Born out of a love of good clobber, Luke Roper’s unquestionable design talent and Simon and Deborah Poole’s fashion business savvy, it continues to perform and grow where other UK brands have fallen by the wayside. Tom Bottomley discovers it’s been quite some journey.

—

Born and raised in Walsall Wood in the West Midlands, Luke Roper, the son of a talented dressmaker, discovered by the age of 12 that not only did he have a talent for football, but also for using sewing machines. By 15, he was making shirts for mates for their nights out. At 20, London called, with a place on the menswear course at Central St Martins. It was while studying there that a plan was hatched to launch a brand with lifelong family friend, and fashion business ‘face’, Simon Poole. On graduation Roper teamed up with Simon’s wife, Deborah Poole, to start the fledgling Luke 1977 business.

The early appeal of the brand very much mirrored Roper himself; a bit of a lad, a rogue, and a ‘wannabe’ working-class hero. ‘Foundry worker meets fashionista’ was one expression that rang true. There was also a certain appeal to terrace lads, which has remained to a degree.

Even footballers themselves, current or former, such as Gareth Bale, Marc Albrighton, Jermain Defoe, Ian Wright and Dion Dublin have been snapped sporting Luke designs.

Simon Poole, who is joint brand owner along with his wife and Roper, says: “We started with a small capsule collection called Luke 1977, as the

first collection was inspired by 1977, the year of punk, with some nods to the iconic T-shirts of my youth. I had access to original memorabilia from my own back catalogue and punk friends, and this kicked us off.”

Roper comments: “In those days I designed the collection from scratch, sourced with some help from friends like Sue Webster, Simon’s old production manager from French Connection. I then proceeded to present the ranges, sell them to our then handful of customers, and occasionally deliver the product in the back of my Escort van.

Jack of all trades tends to be as relevant to the garment industry as any other.” Roper vividly remembers Simon Poole making the signage for their first tradeshow at London Excel, and frantically painting hangers. “At the same time, I was machining by hand the balance of the samples prior to the show. This process never really changed over the first eight years.”

Poole says it was certainly a sharp and hard learning curve, but with his contacts, Roper’s undoubted talent and Deborah’s organisation it would all come good. There was no outside investment, no pressure to sell out, just time for Roper to develop his skills and to wait for

independent retailers to get on board with them.

“Our families have been friends since the 1960s,” says Poole. “My mother made costumes for the theatre, and Luke’s mum was a wedding dress maker and clothed half of Walsall with unique creations, so our families have been intertwined with the needle and cotton for nearly 60 years now.”

When Roper gained his place at St Martins, Poole was head of menswear at French Connection. They started socialising in London and formed their plan. “Instead of me joining straight away, it was my wife Deborah who came into the business as the third partner and ran the back office, production and customer service,” comments Poole. Deborah worked unpaid for three years while things got going. “Luke would have been better off on the dole for what he took as a salary at the time.”

The brand’s lion logo was a natural progression. “We always had my name Luke, with our play on the UK letters,” says Roper. “But, as we evolved, we felt we needed to move away from the early days of ‘1977’, and we looked at ideas for branding. We kept ‘Luke’, as I was the creative figurehead, so to represent Simon and

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | INTERVIEW | 29

Debs we took elements of the heraldic crest of Poole featuring a lion, tweaked it and added it. So it was Luke the name, the heraldic lion as the logo and ‘The Technical Tailor’ as the tagline.”

In year six, Roper says they started to see some real traction. “We had some killer knitwear pieces, and I vividly remember a high funnel knit that Drome forward ordered 100 pieces of on its second incarnation. They were backing one of our best sellers of a/w 06. Then, from the a/w 07 season, it was the real start of seasonal growth of between 30 and 50 per cent for the next six years.”

Roper says that sadly the last five years have seen good friends of theirs having to close their businesses. Tough times have also meant they have needed to adapt to an ever-changing marketplace. “We never wanted to be retailers but, in our home of Birmingham, the lack of doors to sell to and from has meant we have had to look at a separate retail strategy to keep our presence strong. In reality, without a mixed approach of what we do, including growing our own online business, opening stores with franchise partners as well as a new outlet strategy, we wouldn’t be around at the size we are.”

Luke currently has 10 stores, with the franchise store in Cardiff (with retailer Rob Clarke who opened the brand’s first store in Bristol), which recently doubled in size to almost 3,000 square feet, now the number one performer. Where they open is also very much about not duplicating where they have good wholesale representation.

The brand’s offer is forever growing, with the main line, called Luke ‘The Technical Tailor’, joined by Luke ‘Sport’, which now represents

40 per cent of the business, Luke ‘Black’ (relaxed tailoring) and Luke ‘Denim’. There is also a brand new top end Made in London, England collection.

This limited edition 10-piece capsule collection combines artisan London craftsmanship, Italian imported fabrics and the brand’s trademark ‘Technical Tailor’ detailing. No more than 100 pieces per colour have been made, and price points are around 30 per cent higher than the main range. Says Roper: “We already trade with high end stores, so they will be considered, but with these limited numbers our own retail will take most of the stock in this first incarnation, with the plan to roll it out bigger for a/w 17.”

Styles include a Melton baker boy jacket, long length laser cut trench coats, high twist Italian boucle coats and country wool plaid blazers. Branding is clean and subtle, with a new ‘Made in London England’ trims pack celebrating Britishness and quality English tailoring. Simon and Deborah’s son, Connor, is these days responsible for growing sales in the south, out of their Camden office and ever-expanding showroom. This higher end Made in London line may well strike a chord with more London-based customers.

It was in 2014 that Luke ‘Sport’ evolved out of Luke ‘Golf’, due to a wider demand and a broader target market. It has its own DNA within the business, which covers a whole host of sports related areas. It’s also the vehicle they have used to partner up with USC, developing casual, sports-inspired product that keeps a difference between what they do with the independents and what they do multiple wise (the brand has 150 accounts with 225 doors, as well as its own Luke stores).

“Sport has been so well received that everyone buys it now,” says Roper. “Our marketing plan for 2017 is to partner up with one or two of the bigger names in golf, as well as increase our representation with boxers and athletes. We will also continue our association with touring cars and sponsoring golf events.”

To celebrate the brand’s 15th anniversary they had a combined Luke golf day and celebration party back in July. “It was such a super day, supported by lots of friends. We also partied again at the Cardiff and Birmingham stores. We don’t need an excuse for a party,” says Roper.

Also this year came the brand’s most recent collaboration, with the film Brotherhood, the final part of the ‘Hood Trilogy’, following 2006’s Kidulthood and 2008’s Adulthood. Having been involved with the success of the first two films by dressing the key actors, it was fitting that Luke played a part in the final instalment. As well as being part of the film’s costume and aesthetic, a limited edition capsule collection was created for this season (a/w 16), featuring clothing inspired by the film, made for film fans and collectors alike.

Other new developments include final negotiations for a new tailoring licence. Roper explains: “It’s with an industry friend and his team heading up the sales. It’s someone who started his fashion career with Simon at French Connection. So, 20 years later, we will finally get to work together. The initial styling and pricing is great and it’s an area that really needs specialisation – from sourcing lovely fabrics to the buying power to command good prices.

These guys have the know-how in abundance.”

The same could well be said for Roper, Simon and Luke’s background star, Deborah.

c a m pa i g n d e s i g n i n c o o p e r at i o n w i t h l e n a p e t e r s e n

JAnuArY 17–19 2017 s tAt i o n - b e r L i n

w w w. p r e m i u m e x h i b i t i o n s . c o m

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | SHOW GUIDE | 31

EXHIBITION CALENDAR From the brands to catch, to the dates to put in your buying schedule, MWB presents your comprehensive guide to the a/w 17 show season – including the first look at what the season ahead has in store.

—

>>>

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | PREVIEW | 32

LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN’S With a brand new home at 180 The Strand, and a revised name to fit under the Fashion Week umbrella, London Fashion Week Men’s is set to welcome a host of fresh talent through its doors for a/w 17. MWB picks eight highlights to catch this coming January.

—

WÅVEN For the a/w 17 season, British design label Wåven draws inspiration from Japanese artist Akihisa Hirata. Inspired by his concept of ‘pattern in lines’, the collection – dubbed Infinite Layers features linear prints, stepped hemlines and loose overlapped panels. The brand also returns to its original DNA, with minimal shapes, defined details, smart rip and repair patchwork alongside fine embroidered quotes such as “No one but us” and “Nobody knows” spotted throughout the garments.

—

Unknown Horizon collection for a/w 17 builds on a strong reputation for directional organic cotton sweatshirting by introducing oversize layers to the capsule range. Strong graphic prints deliver an environment message, whilst oversized pieces complement Crowther/Plant’s relaxed fit and active silhouette.

—

talents of creatives such as furniture designers to visual artists, each of whom have crafted a sock design to embody their own individual themes and personality. Aimed at both commuters and urban runners seeking a versatile, eye-catching sock for everyday wear, each pair of socks is produced in Armenia, retailing at £10 per pair.

—

LOOK MATE

LEATHERSMITH OF LONDON

An innovative new sock label for men and women, Look Mate was founded in 2015 by accountant and entrepreneur Vahan Havhannisyan. The aim was to create a brand that could incorporate the

British luxury leather goods brand Leathersmith of London was established in 1839, when the partnership of TJ & J Smith created stationery and leather books for the elite society.

CROWTHER/PLANT Crowther/Plant is a luxury organic menswear brand, built on sustainable principles, created in the resurgent town of Margate, England. The

CROWTHER/PLANT

WÅVEN

LOOK MATE

LEATHERSMITH OF LONDON

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | PREVIEW | 33

Specialising in leather-bound journals, small leather goods, belts and briefcases, fine malleable calf leather comes in a combination of cool and classic tones such as green, black, pink and graphic prints with contrasting suede lining.

—

CASTORE Premium sportswear label Castore is making its seasonal debut at London Fashion Week Men’s this January. Founded in Liverpool by brothers Tom and Phil Beahon, both former athletes, the brand’s DNA lies in an unrelenting focus on technical innovation. Constructed from high performance Italian fabric, the athletically tailored cut and fully bonded seams give garments a far more streamlined look than traditional sportswear labels, allowing them to be worn in a variety of different environments, from the gym to the office.

—

BLOOD BROTHER A British menswear brand with a cutting edge

approach to creating menswear, footwear and accessories, Blood Brother was founded in 2011

by Nicholas Biela and James Waller. Both graduates of the London College of Fashion, their skills in design have been honed whilst working for the likes of Diesel, CSM Design Lab and J. Lindeberg. An ever-growing testament to its formula of innovative fabric use, unusual application of print-appliqué and its own brand fabric development, Blood Brother has amassed over 90 stockists worldwide as well as a flagship store in the heart of London’s Shoreditch.

—

NORTHSKULL Founded in 2009, Northskull is a men’s jewellery and accessories brand based in London with a focus on creating contemporary designs.

Channelling the creative spirit of the brand, it is committed to crafting each collection with the finest materials to construct directional pieces for fashion-forward men. Utilising luxurious materials, from semi-precious stones to Swarovski crystals to python leather, the brand blends luxury materials with cutting-edge metallic

detailing, infused with the brand’s characteristically unique approach to jewellery and accessories design.

—

SWOLE PANDA Lying at the heart of each Swole Panda collection is a brand ethos and awareness of sustainable fashion. Incorporating bamboo into every piece of clothing and accessory it makes, the menswear label presents a series of cutting-edge designs, gaining inspiration from classic fits, patterns and styles. From its handcrafted bamboo sunglasses to 100 per cent bamboo scarves, Swole Panda are using a relatively untouched resource to create a high-end fashion forward alternative in the menswear sector.

—

NORTHSKULL

CASTORE

BLOOD BROTHER

SWOLE PANDA

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | PREVIEW | 34

PITTI UOMO 91 FORTEZZA DA BASSO, FLORENCE 10-13 JANUARY 2017

The January edition of Pitti Uomo is set to be the exhibition’s most comprehensive show to date, highlighting further its ability to cater for market changes, visitor feedback and developments within the fashion industry as a whole. Welcoming names such as Paul Smith, Tim Coppens, Golden Goose Deluxe Brand and Cottweiler for Reebok, the 91st edition is one not to be missed.

— With over 1,220 brands preparing to showcase their latest menswear offer, as well as a comprehensive programme of special events, visitors attending the 91st edition of Pitti Uomo are set to be both inspired and invigorated for the forthcoming buying season.

Satisfying the need for originality and innovation within trade exhibitions, the premium fair continues to reinvent its seasonal theme – the January edition focusing on the concept of Pitti Dance Off. The protagonist is dance in its myriad expressions used today, along with the eclectic freedom of personal styles shared by dance and contemporary fashion. Pitti interprets them with its usual ironic twist, and the theme will be virally introduced by the new digital art project that accompanies the advertising campaign for the fairs.

Welcoming 210 new and re-entry brands – including Tommy Hilfiger, Benjamins, Doughnut and Snow Peak – the 60,000 sq ft exhibition space in Florence’s Fortezza da Basso will play host to 16 dedicated sections, such as Make, Pop Up Stores, Fashion at Work, My Factory and Born in the USA. Developments within the show see the launch of Hi Beauty, a new section featuring fragrances and cosmetic specialties. Located inside the Main Pavilion, buyers can expect to find personal and ambient fragrances, body care and male grooming products, all within a set designed by Storage Associati.

Make, the show’s area dedicated to artisan products, meanwhile, has become one of the key drivers at Pitti Uomo over the seasons. Staged in Sala Alfa, the lower level of the Main Pavilion, Make will showcase a new generation of craftspeople from the around the world, including Carvil Paris, St Piece London, Frida Firenze and Titles of Work.

This season, meanwhile, the creative partnership between Pitti

Immagine and MINI, will be continued with a series of projects, focusing on new fashion talents inspired by the theme ‘MINI Fluid Fashion’, considering the latest lifestyle trends and urban culture.

MINI will also become the official partner of The Latest Fashion Buzz, an initiative that shines the spotlight on some of the most promising and talented international men’s fashion designers.

Created by Pitti Immagine in partnership with L’Uomo Vogue and GQ Italia, this season will welcome a series of brands including Goetze, Luca Magliano and Pronounce to showcase their latest designs under the concept of ‘Bold Meets Genderless’.

With sportswear becoming an increasingly popular category within the fashion industry, I Play returns for the 91st edition, with a crossover style that infuses urban life with authentic high-tech sportswear. Exhibitors include Le Coq Sportif, Lyle & Scott, New Balance, Nixon and Rains.

As part of Pitti Uomo’s comprehensive event schedule, visitors will be able to view the latest runway collection from Sulvam, as part of a collaboration with Japan Fashion Week Organisation, a showcase held at the Stazione Leopolda. Thanks to a new collaboration with Korea Creative Content Agency (KOCCA), the exhibition will also turn the spotlight on a number of South Korean brands, with two catwalk shows by BMUET(TE) by Byungmun Seo and Ordinary People, dedicated to promoting the country’s talented young designers.

Finally, in and around the city, events will also be taking place to whet buyers’ appetites, from a special Clarks Original dinner party organised by PT01 Pantaloni Torino, to the presentation for the launch of the Roy Roger’s and Liverano & Liverano capsule collection.

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | PREVIEW | 35

SPECIAL EVENTS 01: DUE O TRE COSE CHE SO DI CIRO (TWO OR THREE THINGS I KNOW ABOUT CIRO) Due O Tre Cose Che So Di Ciro is an event Pitti Uomo has chosen to dedicate to Ciro Paone, the founder of Italian brand Kiton. It has been designed to provide a full immersion into the taste, passion and dedication of the life and career of Paone – a story that starts in Naples.

The show will be celebrating the style and tradition of the designer with an exhibition curated by Angelo Flaccavento.

—

02: PAUL SMITH British design icon Paul Smith has chosen Pitti Uomo 91 as the stage to launch his PS by Paul Smith collection. The designer’s contemporary line presents an original fusion between luxury design and performance elements, technical fabrics and ergonomic cuts. Smith is the Pitti Immagine Special Guest for January and will be realising an exclusive fashion installation for the occasion.

—

03: TIM COPPENS The Menswear Guest Designer at the 91st edition of Pitti Uomo is Tim Coppens, the Belgian designer who currently lives in New York. A finalist at the LVMH Prize 2014, winning the CFDA Swarovski Award the same year, Coppens will be presenting his signature style of tailoring, craftsmanship and athletic wear, with reference to street culture.

— 06: THE PITTI ITALICS: CARLO VOLPI, LUCIO VANOTTI, SANSOVINO 6 Pitti Italics, the Fondazione Pitti Discovery program the promotes and supports new generations of Italy-based fashion designers, presents Carlo Volpi, winner of Who’s On Next?

Uomo 2016. Menswear designer Lucio Vanotti, meanwhile, returns to Pitti Uomo with his latest collection, while Sansovino 6 will be showcasing its menswear line with a performance-event.

—

04: GOLDEN GOOSE DELUXE BRAND Established in 2000, Golden Goose Deluxe Brand is a lifestyle brand formed from the creative passions of Francesca and Alessandro Gallo, two Venetian designers who will be celebrating 10 years of their iconic sneaker with an installation at the Stazione Leopolda as part of the Special Project @ Pitti Uomo initiative.

—

05: COTTWEILER FOR REEBOK The Designer Project for Pitti Uomo 91 is Londonbased menswear label Cottweiler, designed by Ben Cottrell and Matthew Dainty. This season will see Cottweiler present the premiere of its collaboration with Reebok. The capsule collection embodies the DNA of both brands, blending the technical and cultural heritage of the iconic sports label with the unique vision of the Cottweiler style.

—

01:

02:

03:

04:

05:

06:

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION VISIT WWW.PITTIMMAGINE.COM

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | PREVIEW | 37

TOP DRAWER Specialising in home, gifts, fashion and craft, Top Drawer will see a raft of new signings at its s/s 17 edition, held at the iconic Olympia, London. Victoria Jackson discovers more.

— Taking place at London’s Olympia on 15-17 January 2017, trade exhibition Top Drawer is set to showcase an exciting and carefully curated mix of brands, from home to gifts, fashion and craft.

Bringing together key names across the industry, the show’s newest global edit reflects key trends and will showcase some of Europe’s most directional labels, as well as homegrown talent from the UK. Created to inspire buyers looking for design-led, commercially appealing and original products, the show’s global edit will welcome over 1,000 UK and international brands across the entire lifestyle landscape.

The show’s Fashion Floor will tempt buyers with a brand mix including Icon Watches, Niki Fulton, Industrial Jewellery, Celia Gould, Cluse Watches, Danton Fashion, Nordahl, Carla-M, Noa, Tatty Devine, Theodore Concepts, Sunjellies, Urban Kit, Rodgers & Rodgers, Hot Tomato, Estella Bartlett and White Leaf.

ICON WATCHES

GOOD LOOKERS

NIKI FULTON

The latest trends in accessories and jewellery, meanwhile, will take to the stage in a Fashion Show, which runs throughout the three-day event.

Spotted, the show’s platform for emerging labels, returns with over 40 brands spanning all sectors of the show.

Curated by Charlotte Abrahams, this segment continues to be a hunting ground for style scouts with an eye for rising talent.

The popular product trails return, guiding visitors through the halls in search of specific categories. Men Only highlights original gifts and accessories for the male shopper, while the UK Debut trail introduces buyers to new international brands showing in the UK for the first time. The Product GB and Eco trails, meanwhile, continue to be in demand, helping visitors pinpoint products with a particular story about provenance and production.

— For further information and to register visit www.topdrawer.co.uk

INDUSTRIAL JEWELLERY

NEWGATE

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | PREVIEW | 38

PANORAMA The next edition of Berlin tradeshow Panorama is set to welcome brand new product sectors and a host of new signings. Victoria Jackson discovers more about the mainstream fashion exhibition.

— Taking place from 17-19 January, Berlin tradeshow Panorama will once again expand its show space, with new category areas and refreshed segments.

The show will see the launch of a new footwear and accessories concept for the a/w 17 season. Originally designed as two separate entities – a dedicated accessories area and a shoe hall – the forthcoming season of the show will see them come together under one roof in Hall 5 and 6. Each of the two halls will have 3,000 sq m of exhibition space and will present 120 shoe and accessory labels including Bronx, Dockers, Emu Australia, Melvin & Hamilton, Peter Kaiser, Vagabond and many more.

“Last season, our goal was to organise Panorama Berlin’s offer and to present the individual products clearly, so buyers could orient themselves easily and enjoy a quick overview,” says Jörg Wichmann, CEO, Panorama. “Unfortunately we overdid it a bit. So, for the coming season, we will combine shoes and accessories, arranging them into an inspiring whole. In addition, we will break up the individual stands and create central areas, where we will present the exhibitors’ products in a retail-oriented manner,” he adds.

Due to the success of the show’s premiere plus size area last season, HIPSTAR will welcome an expansion in floor space, with the addition of a 1,300 sq m surface area exhibition hall. Buyers can expect to see brands such as Zizzi, Mat Fashion, Sheego, KJ Brand,

Adia, Doris Streich and Via Apple.

The forthcoming show will also see Panorama launch its first dedicated lingerie and underwear segment in Hall 7C. With 40 brands set to present their latest collections, the space will include a lounge and a stage for trend presentations and business seminars.

“When we asked what segments were still missing at Panorama Berlin, we kept hearing lingerie. We now look forward to meeting this need with a dedicated lingerie hall,” says Wichmann.

For buyers looking for denim and urbanwear, Nova Concept continues to attract a raft of exciting signings, including Lee, Guess, Fornarina, Wrangler, Solid, Tigha, Marciano, In My Hood, The Fresh Brand and many more.

Meanwhile MA!N, the show’s menswear section in Hall 2, will see a host of lifestyle products added, alongside names such as Benvenuto, Alberto, Roy Robson and Bugatti.

Key names in premium womenswear, such as Marc Cain, Luisa Cerano and Nile, will be available to view on Hall 4, the show’s Contemporary Luxury category.

Finally, following on from its launch in November 2016, Panorama Digital will continue to develop as the world’s first virtual consumer fashion trade fair show with its new B2C platform. Here interested end-consumers can ‘stroll’ along the fair and view the latest trends and collection on sale, including a store finder.

FOR MORE INFORMATION AND TO REGISTER VISIT WWW.PANORAMA-BERLIN.COM

T H E M A R K E T P L AC E F O R FA S H I O N A N D L I F E S T Y L E 1 7 – 1 9 J A N U A RY 2 0 1 7 W W W. PA N O R A M A- B E RL I N .C O M

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | PREVIEW | 40

SEEK AND BRIGHT Berlin beckons between 17-19 January 2017 for buyers looking to add some great new kit to their a/w 17 offer from the Seek and Bright shows. Sitting side by side in the Arena Berlin, here’s three from each to keep an eye out for.

—

KINGS OF INDIGO

SEEK q

KINGS OF INDIGO Minimalist Japanese denim meets true blue American jeanswear is where Dutch brand Kings of Indigo sets its stall out. That, and its innovative nature in finding sustainable alternatives for producing quality garments. Kings of Indigo is working towards a production process that is completely sustainable, from the raw cotton to the dyeing of the yarns, to the finishing process.

For a/w 17, corduroy, once dubbed ‘poor man’s velvet,’ is introduced in to the product mix with a jacket and a trouser. The corduroy used is a linen and cotton blend. Aside from the fact that linen is a sustainable option, it gives the fabric a nice drape. The fabric is dyed in different shades, giving it a bit more body and a rich hand feel.

Another new introduction is a ‘warp stretch’ fabric, which only stretches vertically. This results in denim that has the rigid non-stretch hand feel that true denim lovers are so fond of, but is much more comfortable. The vertical stretch helps hold

HERSCHEL SUPPLY CO.

the jeans in place when sitting down or bending the knees. There is also a new handwoven slub fabric, which looks and feels like handwoven fabric, and has been especially developed for Kings of Indigo.

HERSCHEL SUPPLY CO. Based in Vancouver, Canada, Herschel Supply Co. is a design driven global accessories brand that produces quality products with a fine regard for detail. Founded in 2009 by brothers Jamie and Lyndon Cormack, the brand adopted the name of the town where three generations of their family grew up.

For a/w 17, Herschel Supply Co. is targeting the ‘travel consumer’, someone who celebrates their own individuality, their own cities and who is passionate about travel and discovering new places, whether it be around the corner or abroad.

The new campaign is inspired by 90s street culture in New York, and the main focus is on the ‘Classics Collection’, which will be renamed

‘Everyday Classics’ and will highlight product across multiple categories, including wallets and headwear.

In 2017, Herschel Supply is also presenting a partnership collection of signature ‘Classics’ with Keith Haring Foundation, celebrating one of the most iconic pop artists of the 20th century and a universally recognised symbol of street culture in New York City and beyond.

BROOKS ENGLAND The latest Brooks product is the Pickzip Backpack, which retails at £230. It’s a medium-sized backpack with a zip opening for easy access, made from water-resistant cotton and featuring genuine Brooks England leather detailing.

Derived from the much lauded Pickwick Rucksack, the backpack includes an internal laptop sleeve.

As ever, new fabrics and colourways are being introduced for a/w 17 across all key bag styles, to be unveiled at Seek, including the ‘Metropolitan’ style in leather, and the ‘Pickwick’ in a waterproof tweed.

HEIMPLANET

OBEY

BROOKS ENGLAND

REELL

Brooks England celebrated its 150th anniversary this year, and this month sees the launch of a unique book that encapsulates the rich history of the brand, its ingenuity, manufacturing, and cycling links. Neither a brand book, nor purely a celebration of company history, it promises to be an interesting read for anyone who has a passion for the bicycle. The book is told in an unconventional way through a collection of interesting and curious short stories.

It should also provide new insights into the core values and future vision of Brooks England.

There have also been special 150th anniversary editions of key Brooks England designs and, throughout 2016, the ‘Dashing Bikes’ series has seen collaborations with 15 different bicycle manufacturers.

BRIGHT q

HEIMPLANET The journey of Heimplanet began with the disruptive idea of an inflatable tent, which was launched in 2011, and was conceived on a surfing trip to Portugal by two German surfers. Cofounder Stefan Clauss says: “We couldn’t believe how impractical most tents were and what a pain they were to put up each day. So we decided to design our own.”

The result is something pretty funky, and extra practical should you find yourself stranded on a beach when the sun goes down. Since then,

Heimplanet has presented a whole range of innovative products, which focus on a simple formula – ‘for every trip and every day’. This formula defines the design direction for the product development at Heimplanet, whether it be super technical reversible tees, sweats, hoodies or bags. By combining the best technical features with a clean and functional design, Heimplanet products aim to work in a great variety of surroundings and situations. It’s a brand with a real focus, and that includes eyes on the UK market.

OBEY Founded in 2001 by contemporary American street artist, graphic designer and illustrator Shepard Fairey as an extension of his work in activism, Obey is another welcome addition to the next Bright show. The brand continues to develop progressive styles that lead trends yet, equally importantly, offer perspective and tie back to the brand’s roots.

For a/w 17 Obey continues to build on its current success with trousers and, in particular, the ‘Straggler Pant’, which is functional and designed to be tough enough to skate in or ‘get beat up’ on the streets. In length, the ‘Straggler’ hits just above the ankle with a 27” inseam. This shows off the ankle and creates a proportion that is forward in the current men’s market.

In addition to the two classic colourways, black and khaki, the a/w 17 collection expands with two seasonal colours of deep purple and a

chocolate brown. Keep your eye out for the ‘Straggler Pant’, together with great outerwear pieces and much more newness in the Obey a/w 17 line that is, as always, filled with a forwardthinking focus on progressive graphics.

REELL Providing ‘Freedom to Move’ since 1997, rooted in street culture and geared to innovate, Reell combines clean, unobtrusive design with functionality, flexibility and durability. Standout items, including its ‘Reflex’ and ‘Jogger’ pants, reflect the brand’s focus on reinvention and demonstrate its knack for matching comfort with style. More than just a pants specialist, quality products at honest prices remain the backbone of the business. From button-down shirts to sweats, outerwear and accessories, Reell delivers uncomplicated contemporary designs, made for demanding use.

Next year marks 20 years of Reell, and it will be celebrating this milestone accordingly at the Bright tradeshow. The a/w 17 collection will premiere its exclusive ‘Tech Wear’ range, featuring a series of compatible jackets, ‘Tech Pants’ and separates. Reell will also introduce a premium knitwear selection, in addition to upgraded core items including the chino, ‘Reflex Easy’ and the new cargo pant range. Established internationally with a strong client base across Europe and Japan, Reell is currently expanding horizons in the UK market, where it will intensify its wholesale push from next season onwards.

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | PREVIEW | 42

JACKET REQUIRED Jacket Required is back once again at the Old Truman Brewery on 26 and 27 January with more superb collections from around the globe. Tom Bottomley picks out some first time exhibitors keen to offer UK retailers something fresh for the a/w 17 season.

—

u

TRETORN Founded in 1891 in Helsingborg, Sweden, and worn in the past by the likes of Björn Borg, Tretorn is currently only stocked at Number Six in the UK, but all of that looks set to change as it becomes the latest fine addition to Brand Progression’s portfolio. A company restructuring means the brand, which chiefly focuses on outerwear for the elements and footwear, hasn’t been in the spotlight for a while, so it’s a case of rediscovery and a clean slate for the UK market.

Tretorn’s most famous products are the ‘Sixten’ rain jacket, which retails at £80, and the ‘Nylite’ canvas trainer, which sells at £70. A/w 17 will be a mixture of outerwear and footwear for both men and women. The quality, brand history and aesthetic make it an attractive addition to an independent retailer’s offer, and just 20 initial accounts are being targeted for the first season.

— q

KYTONE Currently available at The Bike Shed on London’s Old Street, and Krazy Horse in Bury St Edmunds, Kytone is a motorcycle-inspired brand aiming to rev up its UK presence by targeting some key independents looking for a touch of something new. Launched in 2013, Kytone invented the ‘pot’cho’. It’s three products in one: a poncho, blanket and tent for when you go on a motorcycle trip. Slightly more commercial are its printed tees, sweats and some very nice jackets, including one in selvedge denim, while some custom-made gloves are new for a/w 17. The year ahead looks set to be an eventful one for the brand. It will be highlighted at events at The Bike Shed, as well as at Wheels & Waves in France, its country of origin. It’s all about the lifestyle. A motorcycle road trip from the Andes to the Pacific Ocean is also planned – the perfect opportunity to really see if their pot’cho does the job.

—

p

ARKIN SUPPLY Arkin Supply is a leather goods brand blending modern urban lifestyle with rugged British aesthetics. Focused on hand crafted items that balance usability and longevity with classic design, Arkin has created a range of wallets and accessories using the highest quality British vegetable tanned leather.

Each item is made using traditional techniques, designed, cut and stitched by hand within their Bristol workshop.

This year saw Arkin open their flagship Bristol store, in which their leather goods workshop is based. Shoreditch based O’Dell’s has become their most recent stockist, with a number of other retailers in key UK cities joining them in coming months.

Arkin’s a/w 17 leather goods collection will explore traditional British textures and patterns alongside modern design elements, with a range of wallets and small accessories in a number of colourways.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | PREVIEW | 43

q

ETWOG Without any UK stockist as yet, ETWOG is targeting some premium accounts at its Jacket Required debut with its different take on back packs and duffle bags. The brand combines silicone and neoprene materials, but manufactures using techniques more associated with leather craftsmen. The result is contemporary, and certainly quite unique, and the products are built to last. The velvet-touch silicone creates a unique association with the technical elements of jersey-covered neoprene. The collections are designed and developed by French designers based in Shenzhen.

For its latest imagery, ETWOG has worked with a creative collective called Kloudbox (www.kloudbox.com). There are four different photographers in the crew, and some of the images are pretty ‘out there’. Also coming soon is a new collaboration with a tattoo artist who goes by the name of Ugly Kid Gumo.

—

p

+351 Using the telephone code of Portugal as its brand name, +351 is a clothing start-up designed and made in Lisbon. CEO Ana Penha e Costa says, “We are really proud to produce all our garments locally, valuing the best-in-class quality standards of our textile manufacturing industry.” +351’s strong personality stands out in its distinctive aesthetic. The inception of each collection is inspired by straight lines, comfortable shapes and different textures mixed with colour pigments and stamped with its own in-house designed patterns. The brand recently opened its first flagship shop in Lisbon.

It also sells at the Tictail Market in New York, where it has apparently been a huge hit, selling out every collection to date. The a/w 17 collection is based on colourful flannel shirts, cotton flamê T-shirts and sweaters, as well as cotton knitwear and military-style outerwear.

—

t

ARMED ANGELS Without any experience in the field at all, in 2007 Armed Angels’ co-founder, Martin Hoefeler, took the challenge by the horns and created the Cologne based eco-friendly brand. Led by a love of beautiful products, but shocked by the conditions in the textile industry, Hoefeler wanted to show the big players that it can be done better.

No wage slavery, no chemical madness, no cheap mass production. Instead, they started to make ‘beautiful, organic and fair clothes’. Today, with a team of 50 and four collections every year, Armed Angels is one of the leading fair-fashion companies in Germany. And they are very proud of it. Currently sold in 18 countries, Armed Angels launches in the UK for s/s 17 with 16 doors. The men’s ready to wear collection is produced using environmentally friendly fabrics. They are not out to chase every trend, but would rather focus on modern and contemporary collections, with a keen emphasis on sustainable and high quality materials.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | PREVIEW | 44

Every aspect of menswear is covered at this season’s Moda Gent.

From outdoor lifestyle to essential accessories, the show brings together leading labels with inspirational new arrivals to define your a/w 17.

—

MODA

GENT

FARAH p

u

LEADING LABELS

ESSENTIAL EXTRAS

As the industry’s key trade event, Moda Gent is the a/w 17 launchpad for labels across the full spectrum of menswear. Presenting an unrivalled selection of fashion, tailoring and casualwear, Moda Gent is a diverse introduction to the autumn season to come.

—

Going beyond the basics to create head-to-toe style, footwear and accessories are well-represented at Moda Gent. Leather bags, underwear, hats and shoes enable buyers to pick up merchandising ideas, as well as maximising the potential of the season with a cohesive and curated in-store offer.

—

SILVARRIE WALKWAY

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | PREVIEW | 45

19-21 FEBRUARY 2017 NEC BIRMINGHAM

t

INSPIRING NEW IDEAS New arrivals add an extra element of inspiration to the season. This February will see a wide range of debutantes across apparel and footwear offer buyers the chance to discover new style first at Moda Gent.

— CELDES

PETER WERTH

GEOX

p

p

CURATED EDIT

OUTDOOR LIFESTYLE

Following its successful introduction last season, Moda Edit is back with a bolstered presence for a/w 17. The pared-back area offers niche and up-and-coming labels the chance to present their collections within a direct and minimalist environment which is all about the product.

—

Having made its debut last year, Outdoor Lifestyle returns for its third season this February. Bringing together performance attributes with the rugged style of a life well-lived, Outdoor Lifestyle challenges the elements with style as standard.

—

CONFIRMED BRANDS INCLUDE Ben Sherman, Eterna, DML Jeans, Gabicci, Seidensticker, Wrangler, Alan Paine, Skopes Menswear, Benvenuto, Fynch-Hatton, Olymp, Geographical Norway, Johnston’s of Elgin, Carabou, Raphael Valencino, C2, Denton Hats, Meyer, MMX, Cyberjammies Man, Dario Beltran, Canadian Peak, Brook Taverner, Ashwood Leather, Hattric, Tom Hagan, Tokyo Laundry, Charles Norton, Dissident, Baileys, Giordano, Jockey, Lambton Tailoring, Scott by the Label, Gibson London, Tilley Endurables, Gurteen, Sovereign, Hucklecote, Esquire, Lyn Oakes, Mag Mouch Sophos, British Bag Company, Wilvorst, Atelier Torino, Corpus Line, Tresanti, Carlos Cordoba, Peter Montana, The Blue Shirt Company, Maddox Street London, Oakman, Noble Wilde, Bay Road Merinos, Hortons, Club of Comfort, Monti, Allsize, Schneiders, Uppercut Deluxe, Douglas, Daniel Grahame, Wellington, Douglas & Grahame, Carl Gross.

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | SHOW GUIDE | 46

EXHIBITION CALENDAR MWB notes the key domestic and international tradeshows to add to your buying schedule for the a/w 17 season.

— Sponsored by:

LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN’S 6-9 January 2017 180 The Strand, London 020 7759 1999 www.londonfashionweekmens.com PITTI UOMO 10-13 January 2017 Fortezza Da Basso Florence 0039 055 0949 1861 www.pittimmagine.com WHITE MILAN 14-16 January 2017 Via Tortona, 27, 20144 Milan, Italy 0039 0234 592785 www.whiteshow.it TOP DRAWER 15-17 January 2017 Olympia, London 020 7384 8042 www.topdrawer.co.uk SHOW & ORDER 17-19 January 2017 Kraftwerk Berlin-Mitte Köpenicker Str. 70 10179 Berlin 0049 (0)30 577 041 81 www.showandorder.de

PANORAMA 17-19 January 2017 ExpoCentre City, Berlin 0049 (0)30208891340 www.panorama-berlin.com PREMIUM 17-19 January 2017 Station-Berlin Luckenwalder Strasse 4-6 10963 Berlin 0049 (0)30208891330 www.premiumexhibitions.com SEEK 17-19 January 2017 Eichenstraße 4 12435 Berlin 0049 (0)302088913400 www.seekexhibitions.com BRIGHT 17-19 January 2017 Eichenstraße 4 12435 Berlin 0049 (0)69 669 621 57 www.brighttradeshow.com RESIDENT SHOWROOM 17-22 January 2017 22 Rue de la Roquette 75011, Paris info@residentshowroom.com www.residentshowroom.com

CAPSULE PARIS 20-22 January 2017 Maison de la Mutualité 24 Rue Saint-Victor, 75005 0012 (0)122069310 www.capsuleshow.com MAN PARIS 20-22 January 2017 25 Rue Yes Toudic Paris 10 0033 (0)143672752 www.man-woman.co WHO’S NEXT? 20-23 January 2017 Parc des expositions de la Porte de Versailles, Paris 0033 (0)140137483 www.whosnext-tradeshow.com TRANOI 20-22 January 2017 Carreau du Temple 4 Rue Eugène Spuller, 75003 Paris 0033 (0)153018490 www.tranoi.com MODEFABRIEK 22-23 January 2017 Amsterdam RAI, Europaplein 8 1078 GZ Amsterdam 0031 (0)204421960 www.modefabriek.nl

The UK’s largest fashion trade exhibition

PURE LONDON 12-14 February 2017 Olympia London, Kensington, London 0203 033 2500 www.purelondon.com THEMICAM 12-15 February 2017 Fieramilano, Milan 0039 (0)2438291 www.micamonline.com PROJECT NEW YORK 23-25 January 2017 Jacob Javits Center New York 0012 (0)187407092 www.magiconline.com MRKET 23-25 January 2017 The Javits Center, NY 0012 (0)38536015 www.mrketshow.com LIBERTY FAIRS NEW YORK 24-26 January 2017 Pier 94, New York 0021 24734523 www.libertyfairs.com CAPSULE NEW YORK 24-26 January 2017 94, 711 12th Ave, 10019 0012 (0)122069310 www.capsuleshow.com MAN NEW YORK 24-26 January 2017 50 Varick Street, New York, 10013 0033 (0)143665703 www.man-woman.co JACKET REQUIRED 26-27 January 2017 The Old Truman Brewery, Brick Lane, London info@jacket-required.com www.jacket-required.com INDX MENSWEAR SHOW 1-2 February 2017 Cranmore Park, Solihull West Midlands, B90 4LF 0121 683 1434 www.indxshow.co.uk

CIFF 1-3 February 2017 Bella Centre, Centre Boulevard 5, Copenhagen 0045 (0)32472213 www.ciff.dk CIFF RAVEN 1-3 February 2017 Bella Centre, Centre Boulevard 5, Copenhagen 0045 (0)32472213 www.ciff.dk REVOLVER 1-3 February 2017 Meatpacking District, Tietgensgade 65 DK-1704 Copenhagen V 0045 (0)39648586 www.revolver.dk IMC 5-6 February 2017 Whittlebury Hall Northamptonshire 01473 256061 www.imcmenswear.co.uk GDS 7-9 February 2017 Messe Dusseldorf, Germany 0049 (0)21145607606 www.gds-online.com LONDONEDGE 12-13 February 2017 Business Design Centre, Upper Street, London 0116 289 8249 www.londonedge.com

MODA GENT 19-21 February 2017 NEC, Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk MODA FOOTWEAR 19-21 February 2017 NEC, Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk CAPSULE LAS VEGAS 20-22 February 2017 Sands Expo Centre, Hall B 3355 S Las Vegas Blvd, 89109 0012 (0)122069310 www.capsuleshow.com LIBERTY FAIRS LAS VEGAS 20-22 February 2017 Sands Expo, Venetian, Las Vegas 0021 (0)24734523 www.libertyfairs.com CPM MOSCOW 20-23 February 2017 Expocenter Fairgroup Moscow 0049 (0)2114396312 www.cpm-moscow.com MAGIC 21-23 February 2017 Mandalay Bay Convention Centre Las Vegas 0018 (0)77554834 www.magiconline.com THE HUB 8-10 April 2017 Super Brand Mall 168 Lujiazui Xi Road, Pudong, Shanghai, China 200120 www.thehub.hk

MODA GENT 19-21 FEBRUARY 2017 NEC Birmingham APPLY TO EXHIBIT OR REGISTER FOR TICKETS AT MODA-UK.CO.UK

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | PROFILE | 48

THE BULL IS BACK Spanish jeans brand Lois, famous for its bull logo and huge with football casuals in the UK in the 1980s, is quietly making a UK return through London fashion agency, Kippered UK. Tom Bottomley gets the new Lois masterplan from agency directors and owners Tony Wall and Adam Jarrett.

— This autumn/winter sees Kippered relaunch Lois in the UK on a short order basis.

It’s a specially created capsule range for the UK market to target a small selection of stores, with a view to growing the offer and account base for s/s 17 and a/w 17.

Lois’s European collection is vast, but this is more of a cherry pick of past favourites, using the old-school ‘bull’ logo branding, as well as injecting some more modern fits.

On the original jumbo cords front, which many will fondly remember from early 80s football casuals, the original ‘Dallas’ straight leg style is making a comeback. But there is also a slightly slimmer and more tapered version of it in the pipeline. “Most have been happy to take the ‘Dallas’ as per the original for now, which we’ve done in navy, brown and aubergine to kick off with – with more colour options planned,” says Tony Wall. Those retailers include Stuarts London, and 80s Casual Classics; no surprises there. The ‘Dallas’ cords retail at £65.

Stuarts London owner Ravi Grewal says: “We’re doing the jumbo cord in navy for the older consumer who wants to take a trip down memory lane. The fit isn’t too loose, more a regular straight leg.”

But what is Lois and Kippered doing to attract younger customer too? “We’ve got a needle cord offer in four colours featuring slimmer cuts and 14” bottoms,” offers Wall. They’ve also developed a jacket to go with them, based on the ‘Tejana’ jacket which was in the Lois collections in the 1970s, as well as a jumbo cord version. And there’s a denim jacket with a shearling collar and a denim offer which includes the ‘Terrace’ jean, which we’ve produced especially for the UK, as well as the slim fit ‘Sky’ style, in a selection of washes. The ‘Terrace’ fit was actually developed with Neil Primett at 80s Casual Classics.”

Grewal from Stuarts gives his verdict on the new offer: “The denim in the ‘Sky’ fit is more slim and tapered on the leg as opposed to the second fit, ‘Terrace’, which is similar to an Armani J21 fit. The reaction has been very good so far. We’ve sold an equal amount of the needle cords compared to the jumbo. We bought into the matching jackets as well, as we wanted to offer a wider range, and I think the quality on the cord jackets has come out really strong. Corduroy in general this season has been popular with customers; it’s a good ‘non-denim’ option for the colder parts of the year.”

Lois is still all made in Spain at the company’s own factory, and Kippered is working directly with the co-owner, Joaquin Merino, who is the son of one of the original founders of the brand, also called Joaquin. The Lois name was registered in Valencia in 1962 by Joaquin senior and his brother, Manuel Merino. Manuel’s son is the other co-owner, who deals with the Southern Europe, while Joaquin handles Northern European territories. The rest of the world business is also divided up between the two of them.

Adam Jarrett says the aim is just to seed it in a handful of accounts for now to get it back ‘out there’. Murray in Crouch End and Steranko in Manchester have also taken it on board, as well as Atom Retro online. “It’s all about key independents for the moment,” says Jarrett, “but further down the line we’ll possibly be looking at department stores and some of the bigger website businesses.”

Outside of its native Spanish market, in the 1970s Lois had a huge Dutch following, no doubt helped by football legend Johan Cruyff sporting Lois jackets and jeans. Björn Borg was another Lois wearer, as was British motor racing legend James Hunt. “They tended to target the 70s playboys at the time; Rod Stewart was another,” says Jarrett.

There is actually another separate Lois line, called ‘Legends’, which borrows from that period. Says Wall: “Stuarts has also bought in to a couple of pieces from that, and we’re looking at bringing some more elements of that line in to the UK offer in 2017. The denim patch and branding is much bigger and bolder, and the jeans are a much slimmer block, some even featuring centre seams down the leg.”

Flares and boot cut jeans feature in the women’s offer, though Jarrett says there’s nothing quite like that in the men’s, as yet. “The thought makes me shiver, but we have the capabilities to bring it in if required.” Kippered will be presenting the Lois men’s s/s 17 collection at the forthcoming Jacket Required, alongside a UK specific men’s and women’s a/w 17 collection. Time will tell if the bull will have its day once again.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | REPORT | 50

HOW TO INCREASE THE PROFITABILITY OF YOUR RETAIL BUSINESS Thierry Bayle, founder of Global Fashion Management, offers advice on how to increase your business’s profitability by 43 per cent over the next season.

—

If you can put your hand on your heart and say that you’re totally happy with the profit your retail business is making, then congratulations, you must be one in a million. Back in September, I spent four days running a free retail surgery at Who’s Next in Paris. I’ve been doing it for the past few seasons and every season the waiting list gets longer. The question at the heart of every conversation is always the same: How can I make more money from my shop?

You’re reading this because it’s what you want to know too. Before we go any further, think about

this: are you ready to change the way you work in order to turn things around?

Right now you’re probably reviewing your sales performance over the summer and early autumn. Let’s focus on the buying. Successful buying is a mix of art and science. The art is the buyer’s instinct for what’s hot in the coming season; the science part is how much to buy and when to bring it in.

I’ve been looking at the results for one of my clients over the summer. We’ve been working together for less than a year.

Here are his results for July 2016 compared to those for 2015:

2015 2016 Number of items sold 856 857 Sales +25 per cent compared to July 2015 Margin +43 per cent compared to July 2015 As you can imagine, he’s delighted and his comment was, “Now I understand why we talk about the Science of Buying.” Before we look at the details of how he achieved this, I need to draw your attention to a number of key points: Never underestimate the relevance and importance of sales and stock data. I mean the basic but specific information about exactly what you sell. Not Big Data, just the numbers by class

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | REPORT | 51

“ Successful buying is a mix of art and science. The art is the buyer’s instinct for what’s hot in the coming season; the science part is how much to buy and when to bring it in.”

of goods, value, discount, stock. These numbers will tell you the truth about what is happening in your shop. Not a week goes by without a retailer telling us one thing about what is hot/happening in his store while the sales data tells another story. Every time you look at data, action should follow. So if your turnover is less than £400,000 to £500,000 per year, look at it once a month and see the progress around the 15th of the month.

Who will look at your data each month and question it?

Another key to turning things around is your state of mind. I’m not suggesting tinkly music and chanting here, lovely as it may be, but rather the need to view things in a different way and to accept and embrace change. Change needs to become part of the way you work, so that you are able to adopt a different approach when something does not produce the results you want. Every month and season there are new things to deal with, whether it’s brands, looks, approach to business, opportunities or challenges. You need to be open to working differently. What have you changed in your business over the last three months?

Getting a new perspective is invaluable in a business. Often only somebody who is outside the business can give you this. For example, recently we were talking to one of our clients about the need to take customers’ birth dates. He was very resistant to this idea because he thought it was too intrusive and might be straying into data protection territory. When we pointed out that we were not suggesting he took the year of their birth, just their birthday, he suddenly realised how it could be used to connect with clients in a positive way (like sending them a voucher for their birthday to use in his shop, or a free gift). He’s now using this as part of his marketing activity and tells me that it has helped to boost traffic.

We all have obstacles which prevent us from moving forward. What you might see as an opportunity, I might see as a problem and vice versa. A sounding board can be incredibly valuable. You need somebody to challenge what you are doing in your business in order to move it forward. Who brings critical thinking each month in your business?

Don’t forget that time is a limited resource.

Get the priorities right for your business and strive to remain focused. Don’t waste time doing things which are not going to move your business forward. Where possible, try to delegate the more mundane tasks while you focus on what is most important for your business right now, whether it’s marketing, sourcing new brands, updating your shop or studying your sales data.

Who will look at the business each month to decide what is important/urgent and what is not?

I promised to tell you about my client who improved his profit by 43 per cent. Here’s how he achieved it:

• Unlike many other stores, he does not put 100 per cent of his budget in forward ordering. He ensures that whatever he buys on forward order is delivered monthly throughout the season (June to November). This way, his stock remains fresh, keeping both his customers and staff interested in what’s on the shop floor. You might need to learn how to challenge the brands as they are not all ready to work that way.

• Unlike other stores, he buys fresh goods in the second half of the season and was still buying s/s 16 goods in July (at a discount and therefore maintaining his margin even when he was heavily discounting the goods).

• We also spent a considerable time looking at how and when he studies his sales data, how to prioritise tasks in the business and finding him a sounding board (in this case it’s me).

• Apart from being provided with the right numbers each month in each product class (e.g. dresses, tops, jeans), he was diligently applying some key best practice retail rules. The ‘right numbers’ came from our merchandise plan (OTB plan – a retail tool for controlling stock and forecasting sales).

This is why he achieved a 43 per cent increase in gross profit. Do you want the same thing?

You know you want to change. Focus on tasks that you control and avoid wasting energy on things you do not control. Try to buy closer to the season as much as you can; after all, you are often understocked in the second half of the season and therefore losing sales which means you LOSE the customer – possibly even forever.

—

• Unlike many independent stores, he now tracks sales and stock by product category and then by brands (not the other way around) and he sees the power of doing that. After all, customers tend to buy by product category first and brand second. As you will never buy a brand forever, it doesn’t make sense to only track data per brand.

Don’t forget that no brand is equally strong in every product category.

Thierry Bayle Founder, Global Fashion Management Tel. 020 8576 6233 retail@globalfashionmanagement.com www.globalfashionmanagement.com @RetailFashion

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | PEOPLE | 52

COLLECTIVE The people, the places, the products.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK MY O MY – THE MEN EROTTAJANKATU 9, 00130 HELSINKI, FINLAND

SIMON SAYS I’m writing this at the end of Cyber Monday. Who knew, a few innocent years ago, that the end of November would be dominated by Black Friday, and now this. What next? Online Tuesday? Web Wednesday?

We’ve been drawn into a discount arms race; a race to the bottom where full price trading seems ridiculously old fashioned.

Once again, we launched our very focused ‘seven items, for seven days, at 70 per cent off’, and it was well received. But two years is enough and I’m already thoughtful about how I’ll match my figures next year.

There’s a weariness out there, and persuading the ‘just about managing’ to spend is only going to get harder in post-Brexit Trumptown.

I don’t want to finish my year’s column on a down, as there have been plenty of good things happen at Carter World this year. Notably, opening my first store in South Africa; moving to concession at House of Fraser with startlingly good results, and concluding my Indian deal that sees the first store of many open there in April. My UK stores have fared reasonably well, and all should finish with modest growth on last year.

So what of 2017? As I gaze into my Swarovski Crystal ball, I have a controversial prediction. And it’s this… Capital Fatigue.

As a Londoner, it pains me to say this, but I predict that the capital’s best days may be behind it. London has become a hard city in every sense of the word; hard to get into (thanks, Southern Rail); hard to afford to live here; hard to get anything done (plumber, anyone? Decorator?); hard to get around; hard to make friends if you’re newly arrived. And, my friends with children will attest, hard to get your child into a school that isn’t riddled with knife and gun crime. There’s also a hard edge: people are less friendly, more concerned in coping with the hardness than in reaching out to others.

I predict that the next decade will see the rise of regional. I was in Manchester hosting a press dinner last week, and I was blown away by the vibrant, positive energy. The pride, too, and the ‘can do’ attitude.

None of the weary cynicism we wear in London as a protective shield.

Regeneration has always been creative-led, whether it’s on the King’s Road in the 1960s, or East London in the 2000s. That creativity is spreading fast out of London. Some is state-led; think of Tate Liverpool, or the Turner in Margate, or the BBC at Salford. Every town on the Kent coast seems to have a creative quarter. Even Croydon, once derided, now has more tech start-ups than Silicon Roundabout.

This is a positive thing. The more we can spread the good things about London’s success, the better that must be for all of us.

— Simon Carter is the CEO of the eponymous brand and retail stores

Opening its doors in October 2011, Helsinki menswear store My o My: The Men functions as a separate entity to its womenswear sister venture My o My. Located in the hipster heart of the design district, visitors are told not to ‘expect anything too typical’, and the decor and brand mix is a direct reflection of this statement. Presenting a combination of heritage collections and upcoming classics, visitors can shop the likes of wings+horns, Nanamica, Indigofera, Soulland, Kitsuné, Ally Capellino and S.N.S Herning. The minimal store aesthetic has a distinct masculine feel, with standout design features including exposed pipes and granite, raw wood and simple clothing rails.

Outside of fashion, the store hosts pop-up art spaces and events to bring friends of the store together. Recently celebrating its fifth anniversary, the store offered its customers a range of discounts on a/w 16 stock during October as a way of thanking its growing customer base.

—

PLAN B

ROBERT TATEOSSIAN CEO, Tateossian

Growing up, I never had any particular dreams of what I wanted to be, but I knew that I didn’t want to be a doctor, a scientist, an actor or a musician.

— It was only when I went into investment banking (for seven years), which was the thing to do in the 80s, that I realised that I needed a creative output and the opportunity to use my love of travel and fashion. It was also during my time in Wall Street that I identified an unexplored niche in the men’s accessories market: the cufflink. And so, Tateossian was born. If I wasn’t a jewellery designer in London, I would be in Cape Town, soaking up the African sun, seeking inspiration from nature’s beauty and perhaps becoming a fashion designer or going into interior design.

The common denominator with all of these is having a sense of aesthetic.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | PEOPLE | 53

CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL ADAM SHAW CAT FOOTWEAR ACCOUNT MANAGER FOR THE NORTH My most favourite piece in my wardrobe is an APC raw denim jacket. I have always loved denim, and APC supplies some of the finest. I wear this every day over the winter to beat it up as much as possible. The fades are creeping in slowly, but still have a long way to go. The sense of achievement seeing it develop is great and I also like to pimp it up with some Human Made pin badges by Nigo because, well, why not?!

In between my denim jacket obsession I like to wear my lightweight bomber jacket from Norse Projects. It’s simple and to the point. I’m not 21 anymore, so I like to keep things clean and crisp; no more head to toe Bape camo for me.

For the winter, my Oliver Spencer donkey jacket is a timeless style you can wear over and over again. Oliver Spencer uses some of the best materials and have amazing cuts and fits. Being ‘Made in the UK’ is also a bonus.

To go with the jackets, I like to wear my APC petite new standard jeans. They are the best fitting jeans I have ever owned and only get better with age. My beige pair are useful to break up an outfit and steer me away from too much double denim action.

For my tees I like to keep them plain white or black. The Edwin double pack for £30 is a winner. My favourite sweat at the moment is from Saturdays NYC. It’s good quality and I don’t mind paying the extra for a good sweat as long as it lasts.

For the shoes, I like to wear my CAT ‘Prez’ waterproofs. They keep me dry in rainy Manchester. I love the style and the lightweight technology. The CAT ‘Sutter’ boot is another favourite, which is part of our heritage collection. These boots are at the next level, featuring premium leathers, a welted construction and a classic and simple silhouette. Finally, my favourite ever sneaker is the Nike Air Jordan 1 in black and red.

It’s the coolest silhouette ever and never fails to impress.

TOP TWEETS House of Holland @HouseOfHolland #BlackFriday is like Christmas, except you get everything that you REALLY want.

The Chic Geek @TheChicGeekcouk Love to know the ratio of hand soap to hand cream used in fancy men’s toilets. #topup Moments UK @UKMoments Are you wearing your fave band on your chest for @BBC6Music’s #tshirtday?

Louis Vuitton UK @LouisVuitton_UK Take a walk on the wild side and head to the #LouisVuitton SS17 Menswear pop-up opening today @Selfridges, ground floor #LVSelfridges Charlie Brooker @charltonbrooker Not sure how many belly laughs will erupt during 2016 Wipe to be honest.

Pigeons & Peacocks @pigeonspeacocks No to #BlackFriday this is #OrangeFriday with @LCFLondon. Fashion says NO to violence against women.

Shaun Donnelly @ShaunUtility No surprise to see @mat_buckets , @ Everyday_Man & @jordanbunker_ in the “Top 100 UK Fashion Blogs”. Congrats guys.

Mason Moore @masonmoore Herbal tea and a hot water bottle in bed.

Single winter life is kicking in.

Grey Fox @GreyFoxBlog Danny Dyer. Earl of Essex. Brilliant stuff on #WhoDoYouThinkYouAre

SOCIETY THE PARTIES AND EVENTS FROM IN AND AROUND THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY.

p ENGLAND CRICKETER FREDDIE FLINTOFF PICTURED WITH THE WINNER OF THE JACAMO ‘REAL MAN’ MODEL SEARCH, ANDY CAINE. CAINE BEAT 450 ENTRANTS TO BECOME THE FACE OF THE BRAND AND WILL NOW STAR IN JACAMO’S FORTHCOMING CAMPAIGN NEXT YEAR.

p TINIE TEMPAH AT THE MR PORTER STYLE COUNCIL RELAUNCH DINNER WHICH TOOK PLACE ON 1 NOVEMBER AT MARK’S CLUB, AN EXCLUSIVE PRIVATE MEMBERS ONLY CLUB IN THE HEART OF MAYFAIR, LONDON.

p E4 MAGICIAN TROY AT THE RECENT 25TH ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATIONS OF MENSWEAR LABEL REMUS UOMO. MWB WERE AMONG GUESTS AT THE EVENT IN BELFAST WHICH TOOK PLACE AT THE ICONIC TITANIC BELFAST HOTEL AND WAS HOSTED BY PRESENTER AMANDA BYRAM.

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | 55

THE BOTTOMLEY LINE MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear. t THE ADIDAS ASHINGTON TRAINER

FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

CHARLTON SHOOTS, HE SCORES! Back at the end of October Adidas released a limited edition trainer called the ‘Ashington’, in dedication to legendary Manchester United and England footballer, Sir Bobby Charlton, who was born in the small mining town of Ashington, Northumberland, in 1937. You would not believe the reaction this caused. People went absolutely nuts for them. I’d discovered myself, a couple of days before the release, that Oi Polloi were one of the chosen few retailers to carry the trainers (via one of their very tempting emails), and I was indeed going to be in Central London on the morning of the said launch date of 27 October.

Not thinking for a minute that I wouldn’t even get to see a pair, let alone buy them, I calmly strolled in to their Soho shop at around 10.15am (bearing in mind they usually open at 10am) to be told they had already sold out. The lad in the shop looked at me as if to say, “What, you thought they’d be some left at this time?!” I was taken aback. Here he was clearing up the shop, looking like he was getting it ready for the day, but little did I know people had been literally queueing up outside to buy a pair since 8am. By 8.45am they had sold all 50 pairs assigned for the Soho shop, at £90 a pop.

There were apparently only 1,200 pairs produced; a pretty basic black trainer with three white Adidas stripes and the word ‘Ashington’ embossed in gold on the side, apparently inspired by the boots Charlton wore in his heyday. They featured a gum sole and Manchester United’s Red Devil logo embossed on one of the heels.

When I got home I thought I’d have a look to see if any of them had already surfaced on eBay. Indeed several pairs had, going for between £250 and £500. I mean, Charlton is a legend and all that, but that’s just bonkers. Still breaking the back of the net at 79.

CARNABY HAILS VINCE; THE MEN’S BOUTIQUE THAT KICKSTARTED SWINGING LONDON Much has been said of Carnaby Street’s legacy as the area that made London the epicentre of everything cool and hip in the swinging 60s. But the story goes back to 1954, in fact, with the opening of Vince Man’s Shop at 5 Newburgh Street, now home to Levi’s Vintage Clothing.

To pay homage to this revolutionary men’s

p VINCE MAN’S SHOP t WE ARE DANDY

outfitters, that dressed those in the know until 1969, a plaque was unveiled last month. The shop was the brainchild of one Bill Green, a photographer who specialised in homoerotic portraits of the male physique. Working under the name of Vince, at a time when homosexuality was still illegal, Green developed the equivalent of the modern day ‘posing pouch’ for his models to wear. Much like wrestling trunks, the skimpy garments, initially sold by mail order, became a hit with a then predominantly gay and theatrical clientele. That’s when Green moved in to retail.

Buying in other clothing from wholesale, Green also designed garments himself. The clothes were described as ‘leisure wear’, with more than a nod to Italian and Continental style, far removed from the humdrum suits that most men wore.

As a result of his growing reputation for supplying avant garde style, increasing numbers of heterosexual men began to experiment with the new styles, which accentuated the masculine physique. Model and budding young actor Sean Connery was one such customer. Peter Sellers and Pablo Picasso also ‘dug’ the flamboyant looks that Vince was renowned for.

Later crowned the King of Carnaby Street, retail supremo John Stephen, also known as the £1 Million Mod, learnt his trade on the shopfloor

of Vince. With an eye for youth culture, and a customer base including Mod gods the Small Faces, Stephen took what Green started to another level. That, as they say, is fashion history.

GET SET FOR PITTI WITH NEW ‘WE ARE DANDY’ BOOK Creative publishing house Gestalten has just launched a book to celebrate the peacocks of this world. Titled We Are Dandy, it’s a follow-up to I Am Dandy, and is a look at elegantly dressed gents around the globe who ‘embody Dandyism as an art form.’ With words as witty as the subjects are stylish, the book pokes between the folds to let us know about these individuals who embrace dandy fashion as more than a trend or phase, more as being about who they are. Individualism taken to another level.

The book is the work of journalist Nathaniel ‘Natty’ Adams and photographer and filmmaker Rose Callahan. Adams has been involved with the historical and contemporary ‘Dandy’ phenomenon for many years, while Callahan created the blog The Dandy Portraits in 2008, documenting the many facets of the modern gentleman. Shortly afterwards, she met Natty Adams and the idea for ‘I Am Dandy’ was born.

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | DIRECTORY | 56

CASUALWEAR

CASUALWEAR

GARMENT STANDS

WANTED

SUITS

EPOS

STEAMERS & IRONS To advertise please call Sharon Le Goff on +44 (0)1484 846069 or email sharon@ras-publishing.com

WANTED

STOCK WANTED Menswear, childrenswear, ladieswear Fashion wanted, Any Make Any Style, Cancelled Orders Unwanted Stock, Over Stock Best Prices given, CASH PAID Ring: 07944444508 / 07421594958

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2016 | LAST ORDERS | 58

LAST ORDERS WITH...

ASHLYN CHESNEY Following her recent appointment at MR PORTER, Style Council director Ashlyn Chesney speaks to MWB’s Victoria Jackson about the relaunch of the Style Council – a digital guide to bars, restaurants and hotels in key cities worldwide – her favourite London hotspots and what she feels is the secret to MR PORTER’S success.

— Congratulations on your recent appointment as Style Council director, Ashlyn. What does your role at MR PORTER entail?

My role is to oversee all Style Council business at MR PORTER, looking after its existing members and fostering new relationships with the most stylish and influential men in the world, in order to bring the best travel and dining recommendations to MR PORTER’s global audience. The Style Council is an ambassadordriven city guide resource, which users can access through the website or by downloading an app. It gives recommendations and tools to discover and navigate the world’s best bars, restaurants, hotels and brands and features tips and tricks from the likes of Pharrell Williams and Hugh Jackman.

What was your previous role before working with the company?

I have had the privilege of working across various industries throughout my career. When in the fashion industry I managed and produced runway shows which prepared me for the moving parts of hospitality, where I worked alongside hotelier André Balazs for several years. During my time with Hotels AB, we opened the company’s first international property, The Chiltern Firehouse, which is what brought me to London in the first place.

You are set to relaunch the Style Council concept – what updates and changes can users expect?

We’ve made many updates to the technology behind the city guide resource, as well as to the program itself, so a relaunch felt like the best way to reintroduce it to the world. Most notable for users is that the Style Council can now also be accessed easily on the go and is a service that can integrate into their daily lives. We’ve made it interactive and added new tech and social media enhancements by integrating Google Maps and Instagram feeds, along with OpenTable and Uber, so users can book reservations and rides directly from the Style Council page on MR PORTER and in the app.

How do you go about choosing Style Council members across the world?

Many of our existing Style Council members, from all around the globe, have had a longstanding relationship with MR PORTER. Meeting new Style Council members now mostly consists of organic introductions made by existing members.

What characteristics do you look for in a Style Council candidate?

I consider taste makers and trailblazers that have an interesting take on life, appreciate all manners of style and culture and whom we believe the MR PORTER reader will find inspirational and aspirational.

Do you think retailers need to create something more than a successful e-commerce site to keep customers returning? How important is editorial content, when you have a strong brand mix?

As we don’t have a physical store space where our customers can immerse themselves, telling the stories behind our brands in an immersive editorial space is imperative to MR PORTER. Our editorial section gives us an opinion, a tone of voice and an area to connect, challenge, educate, inform, inspire and entertain through interviews, features and video content.

If we were to ask you personally for a bar, restaurant and hotel recommendation in London, what would they be?

If you’re visiting London, I would suggest staying at The Ham Yard Hotel and starting a day off by having breakfast at The Wolseley (because they do bacon better than anywhere else in the city).

After breakfast, stroll over to Mark’s Club and (depending on the season – and if you’re a member) either sit by the fire or on the terrace, enjoying a tea. Through the MR PORTER app you

Place of Birth: United States Lives: New York / London Twitter: @MrPorterLive Website: www.mrporter.com

could then book an Uber to take you to Blanchette for lunch, although it would be a hard to choose between the Soho and East London location. For dinner, I would suggest gathering some local friends at Nopi’s communal table (which you could also book via the App) and then rounding out your day with some cocktails and bowling back at The Ham Yard.

Who are your three favourite menswear designers?

There are far too many, but I have to admit that the theatre of Thom Browne inspires me every season, alongside my current obsession with several pieces from Dries van Noten. I also love a man in a Frescobol Carioca swim short.

Most expensive purchase in your wardrobe?

Probably a floor-length houndstooth cape by Michael Kors Collection or a vintage choker necklace that I was inspired to buy after seeing Klimt’s Portrait of Adele Bloch-Bauer I.

36 3,680 3,680 GREAT GREAT REASONS REASONS

J U SJTU ST H T ET HNEU N MUB M E RB EORF OS FI Z SE I ZAEN A D NFDI T F I T O PO T IP OTNI O S NAVA S AVA I L AIBL LAEB LI N E ISNK O SK PO E SP ES ST OS C TO KC K S E RSVE IRCVEI CS EU IST UPI TR O P RGOR G AM R AMME M E

All suitsAll mix suits and mixmatch and match Sizes from Sizes34-62 from chest 34-62 chest Waistcoat Waistcoat optionoption in every in colour every colour Suits for Suits every for budget every budget The perfect The perfect look for look every for occasion every occasion

For more For information more information pleaseplease contact contact SkopesSkopes Menswear Menswear on: on:

160 YEARS IN THE MAKING B E A PA R T O F T H E M O S T E XC LU S I V E K N I T W E A R B R A N D F O R G E N E R AT I O N S

01130113 240240 22112211 Skopeswholesale.com Skopeswholesale.com

A L I M I T E D N U M B E R O F R E TA I L L I S T I N G S A V A I L A B L E .

T O E N Q U I R E A B O U T B E C O M I N G A N E X C L U S I V E S T O C K I S T, C A L L + 4 4 ( 0 ) 1 4 8 4 8 4 8 4 3 4 O R E M A I L I N F O R M AT I O N @ S L A I T H. C O. U K

PREMIUM MENSWEAR TRADE SHOW 2 6 & 2 7 J A N U A RY 2 0 1 7 | T H E O L D T R U M A N B R E W E RY

R E G I S T E R N O W AT J A C K E T - R E Q U I R E D . C O M