ISSUE 236 | JANUARY 2017 | £6.95 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
OUR SEASONAL A-Z: TAKING A LOOK AT THE STANDOUT PRODUCTS OF A/W 17 MASSIMO OSTI MEETS JACKET REQUIRED THE ESSENTIAL YOUNG FASHION TRENDS TO CONSIDER FOR NEXT SEASON
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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2017 | CONTENTS | 05
F E A T U R E S 10
Online Insider
Advice, news and issues online
14
Retail Insider
The latest in-store news
17
The Fashion Retail Academy
MWB takes a tour of the industry-led facility
19
Moda Gent
Brands to whet your buying appetite
25
Product News
Rounding up the key stories this month
30
In-season stock
Making a statement
32
The edit
Accessories and add-ons to consider in-store
34
Supra back in full flow
The next step for the skate-inspired Californian brand
36
Jacket Required
What’s new at London’s leading menswear show
40
MWB speaks to Aitour Throup
The man aiming to drive G-Star’s offer to a whole new level
42
A-Z Brand Guide
Rounding up the best of the a/w 17 season
54
Fresh beginnings
New Year’s resolutions from key independent retailers
57
The right fit
The next chapter for trouser specialist Bruno Saint Hilaire
59
Zone Two on a growth mission for 2017
Discovering the success behind the UK agency
62
Scottish power
Profiling Dick’s Edinburgh
66
The lost generation
MWB’s seasonal young fashion photoshoot
77
The great outdoors
The latest developments in outerwear
R E G U L A R S 7 8 22
Comment News Interview
Albin Johansson
80 83 86
Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With…
Ivo van Ierland
Front cover: Denim jacket – Native Youth £20.25 0161 835 2064 Bomber jacket – Alpha Industries £68 01869 366 580 Shirt – Duke £11.50 0115 977 0009
PREMIUM MENSWEAR TRADE SHOW 2 6 & 2 7 J A N U A RY 2 0 1 7 | T H E O L D T R U M A N B R E W E RY
R E G I S T E R N O W AT J A C K E T - R E Q U I R E D . C O M
MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2017 | COMMENT | 07
COMMENT E D I T O R Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com — D E P U T Y
E D I T O R
Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — C O N T R I B U T O R S Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — W R I T E R Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com — D E S I G N E R S Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — S E N I O R
S A L E S
M A N A G E R
Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — S U B S C R I P T I O N S Phil Cowley phil.cowley@moda-exhibitions.co.uk — H E A D
O F
M E N S W E A R
Silvia Collins silvia@moda-uk.co.uk — E D I T O R I A L
D I R E C T O R
Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — P O R T F O L I O
D I R E C T O R
Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — M A R K E T I N G
D I R E C T O R
Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — M A N A G I N G
D I R E C T O R
Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com —
MWB is published 9 times per year by ITE Moda Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2017 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither ITE Moda Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication. Reprographics/printing Image Colourprint 01482 652323 —
Happy New Year and welcome to the first MWB of 2017. In this issue we bring you the definitive guide to the a/w 17 season, but just before you turn the page to feed your inspiration, I wanted to take a moment to consider the current state of the market and what potential opportunities lie in wait for retailers during the next 12 months. — Following a report I read recently from leading data analyst Mintel, it seems that, despite shoppers remaining cautious amidst an uncertain political climate, the menswear market remains on track to grow by 22.5 per cent by 2020. And while the clothing market as a whole has seen a slower increase in sales last year than previously due to the impact of widespread discounting, there are still many opportunities available for growth across the board. Seniors, for example, are becoming increasingly influential as they continue to work, earn and spend. Nearly half of male shoppers see the style of clothes as important, and while the youngest males are the most drawn to stylish garments, older men in the 45-64 bracket also show above average interest in the style of clothes when shopping. The plus size market, meanwhile, has also experienced growth in recent seasons, with 41 per cent of males now classed as overweight. Mainstream retailers have been quick to react to this change, with brands such as Ted Baker introducing a successful big and tall collection. Affluent AB males, who are keen clothes shoppers, prioritise quality above all other factors, as well as being more likely than average to show interest in clothes made in Britain. This means that there’s scope for retailers to consider premium quality brands aimed at these better-off shoppers. Finally, a growing trend in the market is the option for personalising clothes. Interestingly, what the report also reveals is that 28 per cent of male shoppers want styling tips, and the last 12 months have seen the rise in demand for a personal shopping service. Is this something you could offer instore? It’s food for thought at least, especially as January remains the perfect time of year to put into place any plans or goals you’ve had in mind. As always, if you have any comments or thoughts on this month’s issue, drop myself or the team an email, or tweet us at @mwbmagazine. Here’s to a successful 2017. Victoria Jackson Editor
A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by ITE Moda Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. ITE Moda Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.
MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2017 | NEWS | 08
N E W S
HOUSE OF FRASER OPENS FIRST STORE IN CHINA
INDIES REPORT MIXED CHRISTMAS TRADING PERFORMANCE Trading during the all-important Christmas period proved to be a mixed bag for indies up and down the country. A straw poll conducted by MWB reveals December got off to a slow start, with many stores reporting a flat overall performance compared with last year. “We got there in the end, but it was a sluggish start, and we only really caught up in the last week of December, when things picked up,” says Neil Raven, owner of Ravens of Southend. “We are slightly down on last year; we just didn’t have the footfall as in previous years, but a good end of December helped absorb that. We performed better online, but this is still fairly new to us and doesn’t make up a huge amount of our business.” Raven says menswear performed better than womenswear, but going into a/w 17 he will still be cautious about budget and try to keep a tighter rein on his spend. Over in Harrogate, Guy Hudson paints a similar picture, though menswear did outperform the womenswear side, with an increase on last year by 10 per cent. However, Hudson also says the start of the Christmas period was difficult and only picked up towards the end of the month. “We’re about level on last year overall. We had a difficult start to the a/w season on womenswear in September because of the mild weather, so we had to catch up a lot on that in the run-up to December. "Menswear was a bit more consistent and performed better; men are not so led by the weather and other factors, they just buy when they need something, which made for a more consistent performance. On the menswear side, I found that some of the smaller Italian labels we stock did very well, so I will be more cautious with my budget for a/w 17 and try to buy a few more niche labels,” he says. Nancy Hamilton, co-owner of Gerrards Fashion in Reigate, completes the mixed trading picture: “We were up 25 per cent on our womenswear, but menswear was flat in comparison. Our menswear customers are just not that influenced by social media, which formed a huge part of our sales strategy, and I believe this is one of the reasons for the mixed result. We will therefore be careful about our a/w 17 spend and look for standout product with strong appeal.” —
UK department store group House of Fraser has opened its first store in China, located in Nanjing, spanning six floors, trading on over 435,000 sq ft of retail space. Located in Sanpower Plaza, in the heart of Nanjing’s Xinjiekou, the store will stock over 300 brands, including Barbour, Ted Baker and Nike. The debut also marks the introduction of a number of new brands to the Chinese market. These include Radley, Cambridge Satchel Company, Biba Alexandre of England, Peter Werth, D.A.T.E. and Lyle & Scott. “The store has focused on bringing international brands and a premium shopping experience to China,” says House of Fraser chairman Frank Slevin. “We are confident it will demonstrate the unique status that House of Fraser can achieve in the market, and will be a standout platform for our brand partners.” —
NEW ONLINE MARKETPLACE LAUNCHES A new online marketplace which launched in November is targeting independent retailers and traders across multiple product categories, including fashion, in a bid to rival Amazon. A month after launch, OnBuy.com was on track to offer more than 2.4m product lines across categories such as electronics, toys, clothing, jewellery and furniture. The site takes no selling fees and works on a subscription model whereby sellers pay a monthly fee of £49 plus VAT, with major retailers already confirmed including World of Books, the fourth largest Amazon seller in Europe and the largest Amazon bookseller in the UK. “The feedback has been very, very good – sellers are telling us that they are fed up with paying the high seller fees on Amazon and eBay and welcome a British alternative that puts sellers first,” says Cas Paton, MD of OnBuy. —
MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2017 | NEWS | 09
NEWS IN BRIEF
STRONG LINE-UP FOR FEBRUARY EDITION OF MODA
BRITISH SENIORS AHEAD OF THE ONLINE PACK
The UK’s leading trade fashion event Moda has confirmed a strong line-up across its five sectors for the forthcoming a/w 17 edition at the NEC, Birmingham. Outdoor Lifestyle will return for its third season with a comprehensive line-up that transcends the menswear, womenswear and footwear sectors, with Geox, Aigle, Didriksons, Alan Paine, Sebago, Grisport, Chatham and Red Point just some of the confirmed names for the area for a/w 17. “Outdoor Lifestyle has evolved into a concept within its own right at Moda,” explains Silvia Collins, Moda Gent director. “There is a strong synergy between leading outdoor labels in the footwear and apparel sectors, and brands and visitors alike have praised the opportunity to show and view entire lifestyle collections without the limitations of specific product categories,” she adds. For a full and comprehensive brand list, to register for your ticket or to apply to exhibit see www.moda-uk.co.uk. —
New research shows that British seniors have embraced online shopping more than any other European country and are now among the most tech-savvy consumers in the world, with 78 per cent of internet users over 65 currently shopping online, significantly boosting the 2016 Christmas period. Conducted by global retail property experts Colliers International, the report also reveals that the largest European e-commerce market is in the UK, with annual online sales currently around £130bn. However, the research shows that while the British have embraced online retailing, other countries have been slower to move their shopping online and the way people purchase and pay for their goods around the world remains very diverse. Italians are among the least tech-savvy shoppers in Western Europe, as only 68 per cent have access to the internet and just 26 per cent are shopping online. —
DENHAM ANNOUNCES NEW PHASE OF GLOBAL GROWTH
JACKET REQUIRED PRESENTS THE MASSIMO OSTI ARCHIVE
Dutch denim label Denham has announced the launch of a new phase in its global growth strategy, beginning with the expansion of its executive board in early 2017. This includes the appointment of Jason Denham as chief creative officer, and the addition of Ludo Onnink as chief executive officer and Fred Gehring as non-executive chairman. The brand’s key focus for 2017 concentrates on the German market, with the recent appointment of Marco Frenzer as sales director for Germany, leading the commercial team from Denham’s German head office in Dusseldorf. Following the success of the brand in Japan, meanwhile, Denham is also looking to strengthen its joint venture with Look Inc Group with a roll out of further new store locations, in addition to its current portfolio of 22 existing shops. —
Contemporary London menswear show Jacket Required is collaborating with Proper Magazine to present a specially curated exhibition showcasing the archive of the iconic Massimo Osti.Renowned for his pioneering work in founding the likes of Stone Island and C.P. Company, Osti took key military garments as a starting point and created new styles using techniques he developed himself. The January edition of Jacket Required will see the show partner with the Massimo Osti Archive and Proper Magazine to pay homage to the designer. Proper has curated a collection of key pieces that best illustrate Massimo’s unique story. In a separate exhibition space with its own dedicated entrance on Brick Lane, the selection will be on show to both buyers and the public during Jacket Required (26-27 January). Visit www.jacket-required.com for more information on the show and to register. —
AMAZON GROWING BUSINESS AWARD WINNERS ANNOUNCED December welcomed The Amazon Growing Business Awards, celebrating Britain’s small and medium-sized enterprise (SME) leaders, recognising the particular achievements of 17 UK businesses who won awards across a variety of categories. Created by Real Business and backed by the CBI, the Amazon Growing Business Awards are the most established and respected national recognition programme for SMEs and entrepreneurial success, with previous VIP guests including Bill Gates and Stelios Haji-Ioannou. Andrew Jennings, CEO of accessory label Larsson & Jennings, received the award for Entrepreneur of the Year, while Bubblebum, the Northern Ireland-based creator of inflatable booster seats, was highly commended in its category. — ASIA APPAREL STRENGTHENS MARKET POSITION The sixth edition of Asia Apparel Expo will see the show continue to reinforce its position as one of the leading apparel sourcing trade fairs in the world. Taking place at the Messe Berlin, Germany from 14-16 February 2017, the biannual show attracts over 2,000 European companies looking for new Asian apparel manufacturers and suppliers. This season will see an increase in exhibitors, with over 300 carefully selected manufacturers from Hong Kong, China, Bangladesh, India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka and Taiwan. Asia remains the world's leading destination for apparel manufacturing. Manufacturers and suppliers of men's, women's and childrenswear, plus fabrics, textiles, trimmings and accessories will display the quality of their production capability. Registration for trade professionals to attend is now open. For more information visit www.asiaapparelexpo.com. — EVISU BUYS BACK RETAILING RIGHTS IN CHINA Japanese premium denim brand Evisu has announced the buy-back of the retailing and franchising rights for the Chinese market. Evisu Group Limited, the parent company of Evisu, has reinvested alongside Cassia Investments, a consumer-focused private equity fund, to buy back the interest from New Elegant Trading Co. Ltd. David Pun, Chairman and CEO of Evisu Group Limited, will remain the majority shareholder. — CHEANEY LAUNCHES ‘1 OF 1’ CONCEPT As part of the ongoing celebration of its 130th anniversary, Cheaney has launched its ‘1 of 1’ concept, offering customers the opportunity to design their very own personalised pair of handcrafted Cheaney shoes, made for them by the skilled craftsmen and women in their Northamptonshire factory, where they have been making shoes since 1886. Exclusively available from their Jermyn Street flagship, customers can drop by the store, or call to book an appointment at a time convenient to them. Firstly, customers are measured and fitted, then invited to choose their preferred shoe from a collection of five styles, with linings and finishes all customisable. —
MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2017 | ADVICE | 10
ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.
ADVICE: WHY ONLINE NEEDS TO WELCOME CONVERSATIONAL COMMERCE WITH OPEN ARMS
KEVIN LUDFORD IS THE CEO OF SQLI UK AND CAN BE CONTACTED VIA WWW.SQLI.COM/EN
As expectations of online retail customer service continues to grow, retailers and brands are having to find new ways to meet these heightened demands. Customers shop when, where and on whatever device they choose, placing immense pressure on retailers and brands who need to not only track these shoppers, but also answer any queries they may have at any given time. In order to meet these demands, the industry is witnessing a surge in conversational commerce, where a retailer or brand will use messaging, digital assistants, chat apps and automated machine learning dialogue to engage with their customers. This type of commerce allows for the shopping experiences to become more immersive, personal and convenient. As a result, a form of human and technology sales and customer service hybrid is emerging in the retail space. Bots are used as the first customer touchpoint, placed to answer simple, common queries enabling a quick branded response to the most urgent questions. Then, if the question is too complex, or if the customer seeks human interaction, the bot is able to elevate the query to a salesperson. There are benefits here for both the retailer and the customer. Retailers are able to free up salespeople’s time to tackle the most urgent and complex issues for customers, while customers with simple queries are not placed on hold for long periods of time waiting to get through to a salesperson. Some retailers are also using messaging apps to explore cutting-edge technologies, such as augmented reality, to bring even greater levels of convenience to the retail experience. This is also a great medium to bring in chatbot functionality, to ensure that there is an instant dialogue with shoppers on offer. Chatbots will take on-board a question or query and automatically suggest a solution, related topics of interest and even demonstrate humour and emotion. Enquiries about delivery and returns can be answered, just as they would in-store, face-to-face. Consumers want help, advice and even nurturing through the decisionmaking process; it makes the whole encounter effortless for them, establishing a rapport between the shopper and the brand. And with many messenger platforms integrating payment aspects, retailers are better placed to convert these instant interactions into transactions. As the online retail landscape continues to evolve, instant messaging and bot assistance will step up to be an incremental aspect in online paths to purchase, creating a speedy and convenient assisted experience. —
WEB WATCH
PIPDIG.CO If building a blog to complement your online offer is part of your New Year business strategy, then having a readymade blog template is great for time starved retailers. Pipdig offers a series of templates for both Blogger and Wordpress platforms, ranging from simple image led styles to more magazine editorial style designs. Installation is easy, even for beginners, and custom designs can be created by the Pipdig team. —
NEWS
CLICK & COLLECT TO GROW RAPIDLY OVER NEXT FIVE YEARS Click & collect is outperforming the wider online channel, a new report by market analyst Verdict reveals, with expenditure expected to increase by 64 per cent between 2016 and 2021, compared to online growth of 38 per cent over the same period. Click & collect will grow across all categories; an expansion driven by clothing and footwear, which is forecast to grow 85 per cent over the next five years and currently accounts for 54 per cent of all click & collect expenditure. While increasingly time-poor consumers seek to minimise time spent shopping, growth of the click & collect market will wane as the market matures. Over the next five years, the development of the click & collect channel will come primarily from consumer frequency rather than retailer adoption. Retailers may favour investment in alternative methods of fulfilment over the next five years. The future growth of click & collect will be heavily impacted by retailer improvements to fulfilment, with the greatest threat to click & collect likely to come from home delivery subscription services, most notably Amazon Prime (launched in 2005), ASOS (launched in 2009) and Boohoo, which launched in 2016. Home delivery subscriptions are a saving scheme for consumers, where consumers pay delivery upfront for a year, with no further delivery charges for the duration of the subscription. Other online players are also expected to follow suit, and even some multichannel operators such as department stores are likely to research how they may benefit from adopting delivery subscriptions, with New Look becoming the first multichannel player to launch a delivery subscription service in November 2016. Other fulfilment options are also being trialled by many retailers, such as PUDO (Pick Up Drop Off, which includes lockers and collection from neighbourhood stores), which despite a comparatively low take-up is expected to grow by 117 per cent between 2016 and 2021. According to Verdict, click & collect encourages additional spend, while delivery subscriptions encourage customer loyalty. In 2013, 29 per cent of consumers made an additional purchase when collecting their delivery; by 2015, this was 39 per cent. This suggests that retailers are doing well in-store to encourage consumers to browse while collecting purchases. —
GENT A/W 17 19-21 FEBRUARY 2017 NEC BIRMINGHAM
Apply to exhibit or register for tickets at moda-uk.co.uk
A U T U M N W I N T E R 2017 C O L L E C T I O N TO M A K E A N A P P O I N T M E N T AT A S H O W R O O M N E A R YO U P L E A S E C O N TA C T: E : TRADE@JOULES.COM
T: +44 (0) 1858 435261
MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2017 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 14
RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry. —
ADVICE SIX OUT OF TEN SAYS THE CUSTOMER ISN’T ALWAYS RIGHT…
ACCENT CLOTHING CONTINUE WINNING STREAK Leeds independent retailer Accent Clothing has been crowned the first ever winners of PRS for Music's Music Makeover Fashion competition. Competing against 130 fashion stores around the UK, the store was awarded first prize, winning not only £5,000 worth of new music equipment to revamp the store, but also a bespoke music consultancy for Steve Levine and an exclusive in-store launch event, which featured performances from live acts The Marsicans, Bianca Gerald and Luke Tibble. PRS for Music launched the annual Music Makeover competition six years ago to showcase and raise awareness of how important music is to local business. From the quality of the sound system, to acoustics, volume and playlists, music has a huge impact on both customers and staff. It can be just as vital as a business’s website or décor in determining its success. “We’re absolutely thrilled with these results,” says Becky Schneider, eCommerce Manager at Accent Clothing. “The PRS Music Makeover prize will give us the ability to do something that we have wanted to do for years: host high quality live music events in store. With the rise of online shopping it is now more important than ever that brick and mortar stores innovate in order to keep customers returning – they have to be a ‘must visit destination’ in their city." — NEWS IN BRIEF SCOTCH & SODA UNVEILS SHOP-IN-SHOP CONCEPT Following the success and growth of its denim label, Amsterdams Blauw, Scotch & Soda is set to launch a series of shop-in-shop concepts across Europe, including the UK. The new bespoke Amsterdams Blauw shopin-shop design will house seasonal denim collections, as well as create branded display space for NOS fits and washes. Retailers can expect natural oak wood, powder-coated steel and blanc glass shelving. The new offering comprises three furniture fixtures which can be customised to fit every retail environment, including a tall browser unit with hanging rail, a consultation desk featuring glass shelving and casing, and a tall, open shelving unit for displaying additional folded denim.
ANIMAL EXPANDS WITH NEW BRISTOL STORE UK surf and lifestyle brand Animal has opened a new store in Bristol’s Cabot Circus Shopping Centre. Located on the ground floor, the 2,000 sq ft store opened its doors on 3 December and is home to the latest Animal collections, featuring lifestyle wear and accessories with a strong fashion edge. Animal’s director of marketing, Kellie Parsons, says: “We are delighted to be locating a store in this award winning shopping development in the beautiful city of Bristol. It is an exciting opportunity to allow us to bring the brand to a wider audience.”
Lucie Greenwood is a sales manager at virtual assistant specialist I am Ava www.iamava.co.uk — “The customer is always right.” We all know the old adage that teaches us to always prioritise customer satisfaction above all else. But, by adhering to that logic, could you be doing more harm than good to your company, and even a serious disservice to your customers? A survey we conducted has revealed that even the customers themselves don’t necessarily agree, with 61 per cent believing that the customer is not, in fact, always right. With this in mind, we spoke to three customer service experts to find out how to not let pleasing your customers at all costs become detrimental to your company. Your customer service could get worse “The customer is number two. The employee is number one,” says Michael D Brown, author of Fresh Customer Service. “Frontline employees need to feel appreciated, motivated and important. If you ever hope to provide a world-class customer service experience, then you need to take care of those frontline employees first. Happy employees naturally provide superior customer service.” It could take you from service to servile "The mentality of ‘the customer is always right’ leads businesses over the edge from service into servile, and in the long run isn’t good for the supplying business or the customer," says Chris Simpson, a consultant with Business Doctors. “Of course, the customer should always be listened to, but once you have understood the key questions you need to ask, ‘are these the right customers for me?’” It can drain your limited resources “Caring about your customers is important, especially so in today’s ever-connected society,” says Benjamin Dyers, CEO of Powered Now. “When we screw up, my mantra is apologise, fix things and if needed, offer some compensation. But not at any cost. It’s a tricky balance to get right, as there can never be an excuse for being rude to customers.” —
MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2017 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 15
SHOPPED: PETER TURNER How was the Christmas trading period? We were slightly up on last year’s figures. Once again, the lack of any real cold weather made it difficult to sell much outerwear, however, footfall has been really strong. Undoubtedly the pre-Christmas Sale culture prevalent now is influencing people’s buying patterns to an increasing level. The public play the waiting game. When did you go on Sale yourself? Our main Sale began on Boxing Day, which is a little early for my liking, but we have to react to the marketplace, and to competition. We do try to hold off for as long as possible as I don't think it's PETER TURNER, DIRECTOR, good for independents like ourselves to develop a reliance on WELLGOSH, a Sale to make things work. LEICESTER What brands and specific products have performed well? Adidas continue to lead the way in producing relevant product for us, which is marketed and distributed in a way that keeps it limited and exclusive, and in high demand. Old streetwear favourites such as Stüssy, Carhartt and Obey are as strong as ever, whilst more technical brands such as Nanamica, Patagonia and Stutterheim are working well. Footwear silhouettes are a lot slimmer with knitted uppers and technical midsoles to the fore. Best sellers for a/w 16 have been the Adidas NMD and the Nike Mayfly, along with any premium executions from the major trainer brands. Are you bringing in anything new for Spring 2017? No major brand additions for this season, but we will be experimenting with several edgy brands that aren't necessarily on the radar yet, with a view to supporting their growth. —
IN FOCUS: BIAS PECKHAM 143 BELLENDEN ROAD, LONDON SE15 4DH
ESTABLISHED: 2012 BRANDS: BELLEROSE, UNIVERSAL WORKS, ROAMERS & SEEKERS, HYMN, SNEAKY STEVE, HAPPY SOCKS, SAMSOE & SAMSOE, HARTFORD, HUMANOID, HIUT DENIM CO.
RETAIL GROWTH TO SLOW IN 2017 According to a report by the KPMG/Ipsos Retail Think Tank, retail growth will become near stagnant during 2017, with an increase of just 0.5 per cent. The Retail Think Tank, which provides an authoritative and trusted window on what is currently happening in retail, cites uncertain political climates as one key influencer on retail health. The Think Tank, however, also stresses that 2017 will bring several reasons for optimism, regarding the upcoming challenges as an opportunity for retailers to be agile in the everchanging external environment. A report by industry website The Business of Fashion and consultancy firm McKinsey & Company explains the number trend that will define the fashion landscape this year is accepting. "Volatility is the new normal," notes the report. "Geopolitical instability, terrorism, Brexit, and stalled trade deals will all increase a pervasive sense of uncertainty in the global economy. "Politics aside, the average shopper is more sophisticated and shrewder than ever before. They are technologically savvy and expect optimal customer service across different retail channels. Retailers will be working harder to keep up with smarter shoppers: always-on consumers are becoming ever more sophisticated, more technology-driven, and harder to predict." —
NEWS IN BRIEF Originally selling just womenswear, Bias owner Sally Hindle, who was in teaching for 30 years prior to starting her own retail venture, was frequently asked during her first year if she was going to do anything for men. So, in September 2013, with a degree of hesitation, she launched menswear. Since then it's gone from strength to strength and now accounts for half of the shop floor, and certainly half of shop sales. Current menswear collections include Universal Works, Bellerose and Hymn; its most recent addition, Samsoe & Samsoe, has apparently gone down a storm for a/w 16. Hindle has relished her new career path. She says: "It's been an amazing learning curve, but the drive and passion that I had in my teaching days is still there and has just been applied to a new world.” Earlier this year, she was keen to move back to the north east and thought the town of Harrogate had a gap in the market for simple but edgy Scandinavian clothing. Bias Harrogate opened in September 2016, and is building a strong following of stylish women. A menswear collection is planned for June 2017, with labels such as Selected Homme and Alban. Bias Peckham, renamed to reflect the building of the brand, moves into January 2017 knowing it's had its best season ever. —
H&M OPENS UPSIZED BLUEWATER STORE H&M has opened its new 40,000 sq ft upsized statement store at Bluewater shopping centre. The new store is the brand’s flagship for the south east and features an additional 15,000 sq ft of space, a 60 per cent increase on its previous unit. It is the latest in a line of strategic upsizes at Bluewater, following the opening of larger statement stores by Next and Fat Face in the last 18 months. The full H&M product range is available in the store, including collections for women, men, teenagers and children. In addition, the store stocks the brand’s collaborations with leading fashion designers, such as the H&M x KENZO range which launched last month.
MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2017 | PROFILE | 17
THE FASHION RETAIL ACADEMY London’s Fashion Retail Academy (FRA) is the UK’s only industry-led facility specialising in retail training and development. Laura Turner takes a tour of the FRA, which was recently recognised as “outstanding” by Ofsted, to discover more about what it has to offer. —
If you presume, as I did before I visited the Fashion Retail Academy (FRA), that it is a learning establishment exclusively for young fashion retail students, think again. The FRA runs a variety of courses throughout the year that are available for individuals of all ages and stages of retail, and for businesses of all sizes, including fashion independents looking to upskill, build knowledge in new areas and get ahead of the game. Established in 2005, the FRA is an employerled college with charitable status that was initially formed in response to an overwhelming skills gap for new entrants to the fashion retail sector. With leading retailers funding its foundation, matched with funds from the Government, it began life with 50 students in temporary facilities at the London College of Fashion. Within a year, it had acquired permanent premises, which were opened by the then Prime Minister, Tony Blair. Today, with over a decade under its belt and an “outstanding” grade following a full Ofsted inspection in September, the FRA enjoys a state of the art campus that received a £2 million upgrade last year. Situated in central London, conveniently located close to Tottenham Court road and the city’s fashion hub of Oxford Street, it provides all of the traditional classroom facilities you’d expect, alongside a comprehensive fashion filled library and lecture theatre complete with catwalk, and an array of creative spaces such as a 20-person sewing room and an exhibition space, complete with street-facing windows and internal shop fixtures. —
INDUSTRY INSIDER Working with over 130 brands, the FRA provides access to industry through master classes, live industry projects, workshops and placements. Its tutors, meanwhile, are dual professionals, a combination of experienced teachers and industry experts. The FRA’s specialist programmes cover core areas of the retail mix from buying and merchandising through to customer service and marketing. Developed by said industry experts to ensure the content is relevant and applicable to today’s retail business environment, the courses are available for all ages, timeframes, budgets and levels. Full-time courses run from one to two years, while fast-track courses are two days per week over 22 weeks. Intensive courses are designed to get an individual into the workplace in the shortest time possible by learning full time five days per week for 10 weeks, while short courses run from one to five days and are ideal as an entry point or as a skills top-up for independent fashion retailers. The FRA are also adding fast-track two-year degrees to their roster, with the launch of a BA Hons in Marketing and Comms for Fashion and a BA Hons in Business Management for Fashion next September. WHY UPSKILL? The rise of digital shopping channels is forecast to result in 60,000 brand new technical and analytical roles needed in the UK fashion industry in the next five years. According to a recent
report published by the FRA and global strategy consulting firm OC&C Strategy, over half of UK retailers are already struggling to fill the roles required. “The fashion industry is becoming increasingly complex, requiring higher calibre skills than ever before,” says Lee Lucas, principal at the FRA. “However, the future prospects of the industry are not yet armed with those analytical, technical and digital skills required to propel the industry forward. “As an employer-led college, the FRA is in a unique position to help bridge the skills gap for new joiners and help the industry upskill their existing workforce through our existing and upcoming courses and make certain that talent development remains focused on the industry’s imminent needs,” he adds. BUSINESS START-UP SUPPORT SERVICE In addition to courses, the FRA has office space to hire, aimed at allowing early phase businesses to access its high quality facilities and deep links with the fashion retail industry whilst being part of a thriving specialist educational centre. Sitting within the FRA’s Business Hub, which was created as part of the recent renovation, the area includes dedicated desk space in a partitioned ‘pod’, which can include a networked PC terminal, landline and a host of other features on request. By creating a friendly, busy and vibrant working environment, the aim is to provide substantive opportunities for businesses to grow. uuu
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FRA COURSES RELEVANT TO INDEPENDENT RETAILERS START UP AND RUN YOUR OWN FASHION BUSINESS This intensive five-day course provides all of the tools necessary to plan a fashion retail business. Providing a step-by-step guide from initial business concept to business success, it offers insight into all aspects of running a bricks and mortar or online retail business. The course includes study of the elements involved in the start-up process, including brand positioning, shop and stock selection, finance and forecasting, market research, and display and customer service. It incorporates a combination of theory, discussion and practical workshops delivered by tutors with expertise in the area of fashion business start-ups. Dates: 23-27 January 2017 / 15-19 May 2017 Price: £495 INTERMEDIATE MERCHANDISING This three-day course provides a more in-depth study of the practical realities of merchandising in the fashion retail industry. To undertake this course, individuals should have either completed the FRA Introduction to Merchandising course or have relevant experience working in the fashion retail industry. A good understanding of this business function and the different elements involved is required. Experience of working with Excel is also essential as study will involve the use of mathematical formulae and calculations. The course sees the principles and practices of merchandising explored and specifically, analysed
in terms of how it is applied in different retail businesses, including e-tail. Dates: 23-25 January 2017 / 8-10 May 2017 Price: £375
the course includes working with mathematical formulae and calculations. Dates: 16-20 January 2017 / 8-12 May 2017 Price: £695
INTERMEDIATE BUYING This two-day course provides a more in-depth study of the practical realities of buying in the fashion retail business. The components of successful buying functions are explored and specific areas examined. This course is suited to those looking to develop or progress their career in buying. To undertake it, individuals should have successfully completed the FRA Introduction to Buying course or have relevant experience in head office environment in an administrative role (MAA or BAA). Dates: 19-20 January 2017 / 11-12 May 2017 Price: £271
FASHION RETAIL MATHS This one-day workshop covers the more complex calculations commonly used within retail fashion buying and merchandising departments, providing delegates with a practical insight into how analysis and statistics are used by fashion buyers and merchandisers to maximise commercial success. Through a combination of theory, discussion and practical examples, the workshop aims to demonstrate that business mathematics is vital to fashion retail. The course is structured around real-life business scenarios to put the theory into context. Start Date: 13 March 2017 Price: £199
INTERMEDIATE BUYING AND MERCHANDISING FIVE-DAY INTENSIVE This five-day course provides a more in-depth study of the practical realities of buying and merchandising in the fashion retail business. This course is suitable for those looking to develop or progress their career in buying or merchandising. To undertake this course, individuals should have successfully completed the FRA Introduction to Buying and Merchandising course or have relevant experience in head office environment in an administrative role (MAA or BAA). Experience of working with Excel is essential as
EXCEL FOR RETAIL This one-day workshop covers the more complex theory commonly used within retail fashion buying and merchandising departments. Through a combination of theory, discussion and practical examples, the workshop demonstrates that Excel is vital to fashion retail. The course is structured around real-life business scenarios to put the theory into context. Date: 14 March 2017 Price: £199 www.fashionretailacademy.ac.uk
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SILVARRIE WALKWAY PUNTO BLANCO
ARC MINUTE
MODA GENT
19-21 FEBRUARY 2017, NEC, BIRMINGHAM
EVES & GRAY
Bringing together every aspect of menswear from directional fashion to footwear, Moda returns to the NEC this season with a new spectrum of a/w 17 inspiration. — SILVARRIE WALKWAY New to the exhibition, Silvarrie Walkway offers a range of handmade leather accessories for modern men. Created in line with the philosophy that every accessory should be a work of art in its own right, each bag offers a longevity that transcends the seasons rather than being dominated by wider trends. Backpacks, duffels and messengers all feature within the latest range, crafted in muted utilitarian hues of olive, cognac, caramel and navy. www.silvarrie.com ARC MINUTE Brand new to Moda Edit, Arc Minute is an aspirational new menswear label with its sights set on the cosmos. Based in London and inspired by ultimate precision, the ground-breaking brand is defined by an effortless street style that is open to interpretation. The autumn offer unveiled at Moda will comprise a curated selection of outerwear, from bomber jackets to parkas, alongside core styles of pants, T-shirts and shirts in a utilitarian colour palette. www.thearcminute.com PUNTO BLANCO New to Moda Gent this season, Punto Blanco arrives with over 60 years of design expertise. The underwear specialist will reveal a range of boxers, slips, thongs and T-shirts for men, each designed to integrate seamlessly into men’s wardrobes as an everyday basic. The Barcelona-based brand already exports to 35 countries worldwide, and will focus strategically on the UK market with its launch at Moda Gent. www.puntoblanco.com EVES & GRAY Newly launched and already carving a niche for itself, Eves & Gray is a distinctive footwear label characterised by its subtly extrovert persona. Its core collection will be unveiled at Moda Footwear this season, revealing a curation of men’s styles in burnished Italian leather and effortlessly sharp silhouettes. Each shoe features a purple sole protection that fits over the leather, while each pair comes with two pairs of laces – one purple, and one brown – to reinforce the brand’s signature identity. www.evesandgray.co.uk
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FALKE
BENVENUTO
LSQ
OLYMP
FALKE Part of Moda’s Outdoor Lifestyle offer, Falke brings an extensive range of men’s most essential item to the new autumn season. The sock specialist has every base covered from performance to style, and will target a wide range of retailers from gentlemen’s outfitters to lifestyle stores at this season’s event. The luxury sock brand was established in 1895 and, over a century on, is renowned the world over for its high class hosiery. www.falke.com BENVENUTO European menswear label Benvenuto brings formalwear into the sports luxe arena this a/w 17. Fusing Italian-inspired business attire with cutting edge sportswear influences, the brand perfectly captures the urban athletic look for the new autumn season. Across both of its labels – Black, the core offer and Purple, its sharper diffusion line – Benvenuto integrates its hallmark stretch, bonding and coating into each of its suits for the longevity and quality that buyers have come to associate with the longstanding label. www.benvenuto.de OLYMP Olymp steps into a/w 17 with a sharpened offer of menswear dubbed the “Men’s Club”. Comprising four colour palettes – Purple Sky, Body & Mind, Just Like a Man and Into the Wild – the latest offer brings contemporary shades of camel, magenta, velvet blue and olive to life in a range of modern textures. Gloss effects in the form of jacquards and satin introduce a ray of light, while artisanal elements such as piped edges and chrome buttons underline the theme. Style-wise, Olymp’s new design of jacket is key, offering a versatile garment that can be worn as a two or three-button sports jacket. www.olymp.com LSQ New launch LSQ aims to fill a gap in men’s footwear with its unique collection focused on “luxury, style and quality”. Targeting the market point between Northamptonshire-welted shoes and the mass of brands retailing for under £100, the brand will unveil a pilot collection at Moda Footwear which captures the essence of great British shoe-making with a progressive twist. Manufactured from suede, crepe and calf leather linings, the shoes feature burnished and polished finishes in contemporary silhouettes. www.lsqshoes.co.uk
www.eden-park.com
Keep the Elegance‌ Fo r w h o l e s a l e e n q u i r i e s , p l e a s e c o n t a c t D o u b l e H A g e n c y M a rc Q u e ro l - s a l e s @ d o u b l e h a g e n c y. c o m - 0 2 0 3 4 3 2 6 3 8 7
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INTERVIEW
ALBIN JOHANSSON The Axel Arigato brand launched online in July 2014. A little over two years later, after a phenomenal response driven largely by a major social media push – and a growing following for its desirable sneakers – it opened its first shop in London’s Soho, at 19-23 Broadwick Street. Co-founder and CEO Albin Johansson tells Tom Bottomley the secret behind its rapid success. —
Tom Bottomley: Where does the Axel Arigato name come from? Albin Johansson: Axel is the Swedish term for ‘axis’. The globe is turning on its own axis and that’s pretty much the same with our brand. Arigato means ‘thank you’ in Japanese. We take a lot of inspiration from Japan. In the past 15-20 years Sweden and Denmark in particular have been famous for the minimalist look, but the way we see it, minimalism has existed in Japan for centuries. You see it everywhere, in their architecture, fashion and in their whole society. Hence we are saying ‘thank you’ in this way with our brand name. — TB: Who owns the brand? AJ: I am one of two owners, my partner being Max Svärdh, who is also the creative director who designs all the shoes and lays the guidelines for the brand. I am more on the business building and strategy side. That’s where my experience and background derive from. We’d never worked together before this, but we were friends. We had both been working with e-commerce and fashion, so there was a common thread. — TB: What made you decide to launch your own brand and why footwear? AJ: We had always liked footwear a lot and, since working in e-commerce on the fashion side,
CO-FOUNDER AND CEO AXEL ARIGATO
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we saw some brands that had started in the US that were direct-to-consumer brands. They were performing very well, but no one really seemed to be doing that with footwear, so that’s where we saw an opportunity. Neither of us come from a shoe background in particular, not even on the design side. We’re quite naive in that sense, but our approach was ‘if someone else can do it, why can’t we?’ We hadn’t worked with a mono brand before, or on the production side either, so everything has been a sharp learning curve. However, in my previous role, I met with and worked with hundreds of brands, as did Max, so we had accumulated a lot of know-how. And we were now coming at it from a consumer perspective as well, asking ourselves ‘what would we want?’ All our shoes are handmade in Portugal, with materials from Italy. — TB: Is the way you look at the market different to other footwear brands? AJ: We’re taking more of a consumer orientated marketing philosophy, as opposed to traditional methods of planning ranges for forward ordering in advance for different seasons. It’s more about creating desire for the here and now. Trends are happening much faster these days as people around the world are more connected and there are so many different elements vying for our attention every day. From a UK perspective, you could look at what ASOS or Mr Porter are doing well right now. Instead of working with seasons, we introduced ‘drop of the week’ on the website to draw people in, and every week we release at least one new style. The same goes for the new shop, as no one wants to see exactly the same as what they saw the last time they came in within the same season, there needs to be continuous newness. Our customers and followers know, through email, Snapchat, Instagram, Facebook and so on, that there is always something new going on. It’s also a good marketing tool, and great for press, because there is always something fresh to write about. Social media has played a very important role to our rapid success. We have focused a lot on our visual imagery, but fortunately people have also really liked our products. —
TB: So when and how did you launch the brand online? AJ: We launched in July 2014. Launching online meant the target audience was global. We started doing some branding and marketing before the launch and, by the third day of trading, we had already sold to people in 14 different countries on three different continents. It gave us confidence that it was not only us who liked the products, and not only people in our native Sweden. Actually, since day one, the US has been our largest market. We wanted to open the first shop in either New York or London, the cities where we see ourselves, where we want to be, big fashion orientated cities with big crowds, a lot of tourists and so on. It just felt better to open in London as opposed to in Sweden, and we also only wanted to be in Soho particularly. There is continuous progress being made in the area, and it has such a good mix of brands now, like A.P.C., Our Legacy, Aesop, Supreme and Palace. It just feels so right for us. It’s a good fit for our brand. — TB: Do you have a specific target customer? AJ: We have quite a broad customer base. Although we sell a lot to the 17 to 25 age group, we try not to limit our product to that. One of the core values of Axel Arigato is that if we make an amazing product, it will have its own following. We are very product driven and never want to work with target customers as such. — TB: How has the new shop in Soho, which opened in October, been received? AJ: So far we are very pleased with the outcome of our store on Broadwick street, which is 1,650 square feet and stands out on the street. We have had more than 1,000 visitors and have received a great response from customers as well as press. Branding-wise it’s been amazing. The store shows that Axel Arigato is more than just our products, it’s a brand, with its own aesthetic, DNA and visual environment. I think people really get what Axel Arigato is all about now. — TB: What other designers, brands and artists have used the additional space in the shop? AJ: We are currently displaying Matthew Miller and UK brand ADYN in the shop, plus customised
rings from Swedish jeweller Göran Kling. We also have Office magazine, 032c magazine and Japanese art books such as Praise of Bondage by Nobuyoshi Araki. We are also working with other brands and will offer bespoke collections as instore exclusives, and we are finalising many different projects, so hopefully we can offer a great event schedule in-store for spring 2017. — TB: What can we expect from the brand that will be new for 2017? AJ: Even though sneakers remain as the core product, and there will certainly be some new developments in that category, we are also exploring and expanding the product offering. In January, we will release the second drop of bags for men, followed by the first bag collection for women. This is an important category where we see potential to drive sales as well as introduce the brand to new customers. During s/s 17 we will also introduce our first capsule clothing collection, which we are very excited about. We see the potential to grow this new category through different options offered throughout the season. It keeps things interesting and gives people a reason to keep coming back in to the store, while also widening our appeal. — TB: Is there going to be a major wholesale push in the UK in 2017? AJ: We have always said that we are not a brand that needs to be on every street corner in every city. That’s not what we’re about. At the moment we are pleased with our current distribution. We are focusing on our own retail channels as well as current retailers within UK such as Harvey Nichols – in-store and online – and Net-A-Porter. We are not actively seeking for any further wholesale accounts, but we aren’t closing any doors either. If there is a store that feels right for the brand we will of course consider it. — TB: What shows will Axel Arigato be showing at in January and February? AJ: We will be a part of the RAVEN Projects at CIFF in Copenhagen at the beginning of February, which will be the first trade show we have shown at. We are also doing our own showroom in Paris in January.
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P R O D U C T
STEEPED IN LUXURY Comfort and quality inform a new understanding of luxury at Hanro this season. The collection features classic, noble cotton fabrics with a subtle sheen in jersey, woven or chambray, set against more voluminous, woollen fabrics in a tweed look. Prints are paisley, floral, subtle checks or minimalist designs, while colours are masculine, featuring dark navy blue, dark grey, a rich dark green and black, combined with softer, autumnal shades such as golden toffee. Modern finishes such as elaborate yarns and sophisticated design details – including button-fronts, patch pockets, hook and eye closures or rib details – round off the collection with a luxurious touch. Boundaries between formal business clothing, casual leisurewear and classic underwear are increasingly fluid, allowing for contemporary outfits which can be worn around the clock. —
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RADAR Spotlighting style
TEENAGE KICKS
DONHALL & BELL
For s/s 17, Scandinavian denim brand Cheap Monday offers an array of cut-out prints and garments that present the impression of morphing into other garments. The overall aim of the collection is to visualise the transformation of youth. Jeans are heavily customised and feature rebellious details such as altered hems, front leg split seams and back pockets that have been moved or altered. In addition, a utility inspired theme is also visible across this season’s denim offer. —
ESTABLISHED: 2012 SIGNATURE STYLE: Sleek and luxurious footwear pieces, with a British twist. HISTORY: The brainchild of Londoners Peter Mulhall and Martin Bell, Donhall & Bell was founded in 2012 to offer men a more interesting alternative to mainstream footwear. Footwear label Donhall & Bell was established in 2012 and draws its inspiration from British history and London, in particular. Typically aimed at fashion conscious, city-based males aged 25-45, brand founders Peter Mulhall and Martin Bell started the label as a way to offer men a more interesting alternative to mainstream footwear. Though currently only working with digital marketplaces, the label has found itself particularly popular with the American market and is listed on US marketplace fancy.com. Currently, the US market accounts for 80 per cent of the total sales. This year will see the label explore its American connections further, with plans in place to be stocked within a few major US retailers. Coming months will also see the brand push the element of luxury, with a collaboration in the works with jeweller Richard Burton. The designer will create handmade pieces for the label’s slipper and loafer ranges, using mainly diamonds. Wholesale prices average at £95. —
BELIEVE THE HYPE Hype has designed a limited collection exclusively for high street retailer Footasylum. The four-piece collection is made up of T-shirts using camo print, splat and distress and destroy techniques. The new collection presents prints with a faded contemporary twist in colours such as black, white, grey and khaki, all featuring the brand’s understated white logo. Footasylum was the first major high street retailer to stock Hype in the early days of the brand and this collection signifies the ongoing relationship between the two. —
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PRODUCT NEWS NO FUSS London brand Nicce presents a collection inspired by minimalist sportswear for s/s 17. Shades of khaki, stone, navy, grey, burgundy and black make for a simple and accessible colour palette. Bestsellers in the range include the Ori T-shirt in khaki, the Overhead Linear Kagoule, the Triple Panel T-shirt and the Linear Crew Sweat. Typically for the brand, the new collection takes its influence from London’s music, culture and art scenes, while focusing on a clean and modern approach to the overall aesthetic. —
STREET LIFE For its s/s 17 collection, Volcom taps directly into the energy of the city streets, skate and surf. With a focus on clean, progressive design, refined signature details and sustainable fabrications, Volcom merges contemporary with traditional. This season the brand also continues its partnership with Repreve, a sustainable fabric which can be found in the Frickin’ Chinos pants and shorts, along with the Everett Solid woven shirt and the water resistant Stone Storm Jacket which features taped seams, venting and a waterproof zipper on the chest. —
STYLE HIGHLIGHT
VANS V-66 The Vans V-66 snowboard boot is a lace-up style model engineered to be used in all terrains. The tongue lock down system helps eliminate heel lift, and the reach around cuff strap attached to the inside shell allows snowboarders the choice of wrapping the strap around the internal liner or the exterior tongue for a custom fit. The V-66 also features an internal wrap harness for a closer fit, lightweight Waffleflex outsoles and dual density UltraCush V2 footbeds for mechanical support. —
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BOY LONDON £25 020 7247 0089
BARBOUR £37.02 0800 917 3000
BELLFIELD £11.43 0844 477 4856
WEEKEND OFFENDER £22 01332 342068
CHRISTOPHER KANE SCOTCH & SODA £34 020 3137 3901
MAKING A STATEMENT Steering away from the minimalist vibe that has come hand-in-hand with the sports luxe trend so dominant in the casual menswear sector, statement sweatshirts return, with in-your-face branding, contrasting colourways and bold, eye-catching prints. — Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale
BLEND HE £13.20 020 3432 6387
UMBRO X HOUSE OF HOLLAND £34 020 7428 9427
HYPE PRICE ON REQUEST 0116 262 3048
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JOHN LOBB RRP £940 020 7930 8089
PENROSE LONDON £34 SALES@PENROSE-LONDON.COM
ALICE MADE THIS £40 07782 299871
THE EDIT Accessories and lifestyle products to complement your store’s offer. — SIMON CARTER £11 (PACK OF TWO) 020 8683 4475
BLUEMINT PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7399 7481
THOM SWEENEY £65 WWW.THOMSWEENEY.CO.UK
BABETTE WASSERMAN £25 020 8964 9777
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA RRP £750 0800 085 4909
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SUPRA BACK IN FULL FLOW Skate-inspired California brand Supra is back with a bang following its takeover by K-Swiss Global Brands, part of the big-hitting E-Land Group. Showing at Jacket Required will be its new apparel line and the next edition of its famed Skytop shoe, the Skytop V, designed in conjunction with legendary LA skater Chad Muska, writes Tom Bottomley. — It had all gone a bit quiet on the Supra front when the California brand was bought by K-Swiss Global Brands, part of the multi-billion Korean conglomerate E-Land Group, in mid-2015. But, after a year and a half spent transitioning to the new ownership and planning the brand’s future, 2017 sees it re-emerge to refuel the skate and streetwear market, with more of a fashion edge. Showing at Bright in Berlin, and then Jacket Required in London, buyers may want to take note of its brand new apparel line, featuring track pants and jackets, a collection of knits with colour blocking and bold prints, and some standout hoodies. Next to that sits the all-new edition of the Skytop shoe, the one that shot the brand to fame back in 2007. This one, the Skytop V, again in partnership with skate supremo Chad Muska, looks set to flip the brand’s trajectory once again. Having already appeared on the front cover of Sneaker Freaker, it has apparently received the best reaction from US retailers since the first Skytop came out. Pascal Kamp, EMEA brand director of Supra (and sister brand KR3W), says: “We have a lot of new and exciting product introductions including the Skytop V, a fresh interpretation of a skate shoe and a very fashion forward design based on the classic model. We really tried to work on a new interpretation of a skate shoe by using different methods of construction, different upper materials and so on. The Skytop V is a perfect example of that. We worked closely with Chad Muska on his vision of the next Skytop in the franchise.” Though putting in more of a fashion flavour to the designs, Kamp says Supra is certainly staying true to its roots. “We believe in skate and
we are born to skate. The mainstream fashion market is becoming more in tune with our skate heritage, and that widens our appeal. Our goal is that our footwear and apparel is as relevant on the high street as it is in the skate parks. It’s definitely aimed at the skateboarding kids who want to look good as well.” Supra was founded in Southern California in 2006 by Angel Cabada and Scott Bailey. It fused fashion, music, art and street, while remaining firmly committed to its skateboarding roots. In 2007, the Skytop – Chad Muska’s signature shoe – brought Supra mass attention and influenced its meteoric leap from skateboard shoe company to global footwear brand. Once the Skytop was discovered, it became the must-have footwear of the Hollywood elite and the darling of the sneaker community. And the brand is now firmly back to recapture its former glory. “We are constantly listening to the consumer needs and ensuring we’re putting the right product in front of him and her,” says Kamp. Some of the endemic skate companies are still struggling to compete with the athletic brands that now have a skate programme in their collections, so it’s important that Supra gets its next move right, and it’s clear there is a real new focus on design and distribution. This is the year that’s bringing in the changes to get retailers back for a second look. The running category in footwear is also a growing one, with the introduction of the ‘Flow Run’ and ‘Winslow’ styles. And then there’s a strong cold weather winter boot selection, with the ‘Vaider CW’ being a key style. Another new addition is ‘The Method’, which takes design cues from the Skytop V, but has a lower price point.
Boutiques and skate shops in the US have already reacted very positively to this new shoe. Pascal says Supra has a leading position at core skate stores across the UK. “Next to that, we are working with several lifestyle independents who sell our ‘Estate’ and ‘Cornerstone’ collections. We also have visibility on the high street and online, selling products with retailers like ASOS, Soletrader and USC.” Some new collaborations are in the pipeline in 2017, though they remain under wraps for now. In the past, the brand has worked with the likes of G-Shock, Lil Wayne and Corona. “We have a lot to show and tell to our customers,” comments Kamp. “That’s why we have decided to visit some European relevant trade shows in January, including Pitti in Florence, Bright in Berlin and Jacket Required in London. We will show the very best new pieces of our footwear and apparel range.” So, in Kamp’s eyes, is skate firmly back on the map as a key look? “It’s obvious that the skate trend is not there,” he offers. “But, as a brand these days you need to be able to survive and offer a broader range of products, yet stay true to your heritage. I’ve seen a lot of beautiful products from competitors in different categories than their core category. As long as you listen to the demand from today’s consumer you can be successful. And, of course, you need to have a point of difference to your competitors.” Supra has its own stores in Paris, New York, LA and Tokyo, though there are no plans for a UK store just yet. The Supra EMEA HQ is now based in Amsterdam, and a new UK focused sales team is currently being put together as the brand breaks a new dawn for 2017.
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JACKET REQUIRED A new year and an updated Jacket Required – packed with fresh brand additions, and some returning gems. Here’s a selection of what to expect to get the a/w 17 buying juices flowing. — u
SHOES LIKE POTTERY The clue is in the name. These shoes really are produced just like pottery. Straight out of Japan, and being distributed in the UK by Egomark, the hallmark of Shoes Like Pottery is the vulcanising, or ka-ryu in Japanese, process, performed by only a select handful of shoe manufacturers around the world. Each shoe is fired in a kiln which causes the sulphur mixed inside the raw rubber to chemically react, returning the rubber to its natural elasticity and creating a soft, flexible, and durable sole. We’ll take their word for it. Not only are they cleverly made, they look really good too. Above all, Shoes Like Pottery feature high-quality, beautifully textured fabrics, hand-sewn by the skilled craftsmen of Kurume. A first time showing at Jacket Required, they are bound to create a buyer buzz. —
q
FREDDIES 85
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CLARKS ORIGINALS The return of a hot favourite, a/w 17 marks a turning point in the rich history of the Originals brand. A bold new direction is set to propel the brand into the premium lifestyle sector through three distinct collections, Dress, Casual and Sport, intended to exemplify a new progressive aesthetic. While maintaining the iconic and all-important Desert Boot, Wallabee and Desert Trek silhouettes, the a/w 17 collection features some new styles inspired by the Clarks archive. Each segment offers a sleek new take on key styles. The Dress category features a Made In England collection, including updated styles taken from an unreleased boot dating back to the 1950s. The Casual collection builds upon established classics such as the Wallabee and Desert Trek boots, whilst Oswyn is a radical reinterpretation of the 1970s Clarks Polyveldt. In the Sport segment, Clarks has the game-changing Trigenic Flex, and its principles of natural movement have evolved into the Trigenic Evo. —
Founded in the winter of 2015 by two longtime friends who share the same name, the same age and, most importantly, the same passion for menswear and, particularly, the blazer, the aim of Freddies 85 is to create a blazer brand that approaches the tweed jacket in a completely new way. The brand’s home city of Oporto has a major role in its beginnings because of its central location in the textile area in the north of Portugal. The vast knowledge of textile production that the two partners share soon transformed the dream project into a successful start-up brand, with internal sales in Portugal and international sales in Europe. The vision is to provide an exclusive product with proven quality, with a timeless cut, colours and patterns, setting a statement style for any occasion at an affordable price. Freddies 85 will bring two blazer cuts to Jacket Required, in a variety of 22 patterns, as it looks to establish a foothold in the UK. —
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This new label, another fresh addition to the Jacket Required brand roster, brings to the table a collaboration between one William Watson, who boasts a design background of more than 15 years – including stints with Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan and Umbro, and Vincent Oshin, a music journalist, DJ and stylist to the stars. Both hail from the north of England, but met in New York where Death To Tennis was born. It’s all about contemporary menswear with a touch of showmanship, and Brand Progression has taken the label into their fine stable of brands to target the UK market for the first time. Outside of the UK it already sells to a high level of retailers including Ron Herman, Isetan, Opening Ceremony and United Arrows. —
Offering contemporary footwear brand at a reachable price point, London-based brand Good News continues with its retro inspired collection for a/w 17. Inspired by American culture, and baseball in particular, Good News combines 1970s colour palettes with clean lines. Each style comes in a high-top or low cut and incorporates a unique thick rubber sole for comfort. Shoes are named after traditional baseball terms, such as ‘Dinger’ after a homerun. The collection retails between £50-£60, and already sells in the likes of Other Shop in Carnaby, Article in Shoreditch and The Business in Leicester. For a/w 17, expect more nostalgic colour palettes, retro stripes and faded hues. Thick corduroy and striped denim give a vintage Americana feel, whilst nylon styles lend a cleaner, more technical touch. —
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B.D. BAGGIES Quality shirt brand B.D. Baggies returns to Jacket Required with The Stone Agencies, headed by Kevin Stone. The classic American shirt brand, famous for its button-downs in washed and soft cotton, was founded in 1919 by one Bradford Dexter Bagg, who found a trunk in his attic with his father’s clothes. Although they were a size up, he decided to wear them, creating a new trend among his classmates. B.D. Baggies was born. The brand’s ‘Yellow Label’ is making a return for a/w 17, and each shirt comes in a jute bag, a nice touch. There’s flannel shirts, solid dyed poplins, prints, checks, Oxfords, natural indigo options, and geometric and micro flower all-over prints. For the new season, all shirts have been developed in two fits, slim fit and regular, and there is also a new, smaller button-down collar available, which is super sharp. — uuu
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LOAKE A fine old Northampton shoe company, founded in 1880 by the Loake family, who have been making shoes in the county for five generations, Loake is one of the most experienced producers of fine, Goodyear welted footwear in the world, estimating it has made more than 50 million pairs. Product development for a/w 17 focuses on new styles that strengthen and update existing ranges in line with current footwear trends. There’s a return to a slightly more formal and classic look, with a move away from exaggerated toe shapes to shorter, more rounded toes. Uppers in full grain calf leathers or oily suedes are either simple or very detailed, with plain Derby and Chelsea boots being offered alongside intricate brogues. Goodyear welted rubber soles are increasingly popular for the a/w season, giving a sturdier overall look while providing improved grip. Loake continues to focus its wholesale distribution on a complementary mix of the best nationwide and regional retailers. —
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KILT HERITAGE Created in 2014, Kilt Heritage has nothing to do with kilts or Scotland, but instead focuses on outerwear that means business. Rainproof and windproof, the real trademark of the brand is an elastic nylon with an hydrophobic membrane, that combines technical characteristics with unique comforts. Another first time showing at Jacket Required, it’s perfect for the British weather, and now with its eighth collection it has developed an ‘urban and tech’ collection of 40 pieces. High performance jackets are very much the specialisation. The brand’s motto is ‘Unusual Jackets,’ and each piece has pockets for smartphones and tablets, as well as ear cuffs and portable power banks. Believe it when you see it. It’s all very functional, with a touch of style. In the future, Kilt Heritage will introduce backpacks, trousers and sweatshirts, as well as a series of limited edition pieces. The brand sells in over 200 doors, mainly in Italy, and the UK is now in its focus. — t
ALEXMONHART Going under the self-proclaimed mantle of ‘highend streetwear’, Alexmonhart from the Czech Republic is a backpack collection with a difference. It blends functionality with minimalism and elegance: that’s not easy. The backpack can be folded and transformed into a clutch. Each of them has a fixed leather cover, and several inside pockets for your laptop, tablet, wallet and other daily accessories in addition to two outside velcro and zipper pockets. Basically, it’s a pocket fest for those who always think they can never have enough stuff on them. Made in the Czech Republic using leather and hardware from Italy, Alexmonhart twice showed at Seek in Berlin last year, but now makes its Jacket Required debut. There are no UK stockists as yet, but they would like to find new stores ‘where sportswear meets high-end streetwear.’ The best Czech stockist is The Room by Basmatee in Prague, where it sits alongside brands like ATF, Denham, Henrik Vibskov, Homecore and Moscot. —
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QUINTON CHADWICK Design duo Jane Chadwick and Jess Quinton came together with a mutual vision to launch their knitwear label using only British manufacturers. Fast forward 15 years and Quinton Chadwick are bywords for modern idiosyncratic English styling and quality British production. Their men’s accessories are now stocked in some of the best boutiques and concept stores around the world, and in the UK including the relaunch of the menswear department in Fortnum & Mason, Sefton, The Hambledon and Murray. The small independent company focuses on quality scarves, hats and gloves. Jane Chadwick says: “A major passion for us is to keep traditional knitting skills alive in the UK. We use specialist factories in Scotland as well as a co-operative of hand-frame knitters in Devon. This hands-on approach to machine techniques and industrial processes has helped our label develop its clever handwriting, a modern edgy twist on heritage patterns. Always inspired by colour and the play of scale and pattern, each new collection moves with current trends yet enhances our strong quirky graphic style.” Quinton Chadwick makes a Jacket Required return after a two-year absence. —
Founded in Kansas, USA, in 1889, Lee was built on workwear heritage, and Lee 101 celebrates the brand’s roots with true denim authenticity at its core. Powered by high grade Japanese selvage and denim handpicked from the world’s best speciality mills, Lee 101 presents a collection of modern denim classics, drawing on its rich heritage. Lee comes into 2017 on the back of a fourth year of consecutive growth and a strong focus on its iconic Rider package. In the Lee 101 collection for a/w 17 there’s a reworked slim Rider jacket taking influence from the original 101J, as well as an oversized Rider jacket and the Sherpa Rider option. There’s also the newly launched Slim Rider jean, as well as the original 101 Rider jean and the Rider shirt – all in a range of washes from three laundry stories: ‘Soho Darks’, ‘Midtown Blues’ and ‘Eastside Aged’. Also featuring is Cone Mill ‘White Oak’ denim, crafted on a 60 year-old shuttle loom. Current UK stockists of the Lee 101 line include Oi Polloi, The Priory and The Liquor Store. —
EAST LONDON HOTSPOTS
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BOUNDARY HOTEL
THE BIKE SHED
OFFERING BOMBAY CAFE-STYLE FOOD WHICH WON’T HURT THE WALLET, THE DECOR OF THE SHOREDITCH BRANCH OF DISHOOM CAPTURES TRUE INDIAN FLAIR, FROM THE TILED FLOORS TO THE SIGN READING “PERMIT ROOM” – INDIAN ENGLISH FOR ALCOHOLLICENSED – GREETING GUESTS AT THE DOOR. SERVING FROM BREAKFAST RIGHT THROUGH TO EVENING, DISHES INCLUDE MURGH MALAI, DISHOOM CHICKEN TIKKA ROLL AND THE SIGNATURE BLACK HOUSE DAAL. 7 BOUNDARY STREET, SHOREDITCH. —
FROM THE FRESHLY BAKED BREAD OF ALBION CAFE BELOW, TO THE ROOF TERRACE THAT’S IDEAL FOR ENJOYING A DRINK OR TWO, BOUNDARY HOTEL CATERS FOR BOTH LOVERS OF ART AND ADMIRERS OF DESIGN. THE BOUTIQUE HOTEL HAS 12 INDIVIDUALLY DESIGNED GUESTROOMS, EACH INSPIRED BY A DESIGNER OR PAST DESIGN MOVEMENT, FROM EILEEN GRAY TO BAUHAUS. THERE ARE ALSO FIVE SUITES, FEATURING IMPRESSIVE VIEWS FROM THE PRIVATE OUTDOOR BALCONIES. 2- 4 BOUNDARY STREET, SHOREDITCH. —
LOCATED BY SHOREDITCH TOWN HALL, OCCUPYING TWO RAILWAY ARCHES, THE BIKE SHED COMBINES BEER, BIKES AND A BARBER SHOP. ON THE EASTERN END OF OLD STREET, THE CONCEPT WAS ORIGINALLY BORN FROM A BLOG AND FORUM FOR CUSTOM BIKE FANS AND NOW RESIDES OVER 10,000 SQ FT OF CAFE, RESTAURANT, LOUNGE, SHOP AND GALLERY SPACE. JUST NOTE, IF YOU’RE WANTING TO POP IN AFTER 8PM, YOU’LL NEED TO EITHER ORDER FOOD OR BECOME A MEMBER. 384 OLD STREET, SHOREDITCH. —
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AITOR THROUP EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR, G-STAR Tom Bottomley talks to design guru Aitor Throup, the man now firmly at the creative controls and aiming to drive G-Star’s offer to a whole new level. — Tom Bottomley: How long have you been working with the G-Star brand and in what capacity? Aitor Throup: I became creative consultant to G-Star in 2013. Through this period, I tried to have new points of view and constructive observations about the brand, capturing all the elements that I needed before I actually created a single piece. It took me about two years to design anything, because I first had to properly capture the essence of the brand, whilst helping align the brand’s message and output across all their platforms and departments. TB: What do you think you’ve brought to the table design-wise? AT: I have brought a lot of learnings from my own work to G-Star, and vice versa. I’ve encouraged us to think and work in a different way. For example, through the innovation lab that we set up last year: there we have the freedom to really experiment and push the boundaries of what G-Star is currently exploring. During my time as a consultant, I developed the concept behind London’s Oxford Street flagship shop, art directed the G-Star RAW a/w 16 advertising campaign, designed the 3D denim ‘Staq’ pant, created the ‘Motion’ concept and established the innovation lab and ‘Raw Research’ platform. TB: When did you go full-time as executive creative director? AT: Officially on 1 November 2016, but prior to this I had already been overseeing many different aspects of the brand as a whole. My transition from creative consultant to executive creative director was therefore an organic one. This exact title had not yet existed at G-Star, as I lead all design-led functions of the brand, from product design, to communications design, to retail and online design. To have the opportunity to help align all these incredible things in each department and to bring a new perspective is very exciting. I genuinely believe in the brand’s manifesto to become the definitive denim brand of the 21st century, so I aim to facilitate that through a really focused vision of doing things differently. I do feel a sense of responsibility, however it is truly a collaborative process between the entire G-Star team. TB: What attracted you to the brand? AT: It was really their ongoing devotion to experimenting, particularly with 3D denim and construction in the world of denim, and how they
have had a unique approach to denim design by combining elements of art and objects into their output. When I first had the opportunity to meet the brand and look into the archives, I was really surprised by the amount of innovation that they had been involved in, that I hadn’t been aware of. What’s really interesting is how they have been brave enough to challenge the conventions of their genre throughout their history. TB: What is your creative vision for the brand? AT: It always has to start with pushing the possibilities of denim. I think denim is, and always will be, the main focus for the brand, but the real goal is for every single product category to always showcase newness. My vision is to continue the brand mission to redefine denim for the future, and that is just the beginning. I also have a vision of building the same approach towards innovation and the idea of challenging the conventions of all of the product categories that we develop at G-Star. We have been putting a lot of effort and passionate research into product design in general, particularly outerwear: like jackets, coats and womenswear. We are putting a lot of focus on the future. Shoes are something we are also investing a lot of energy into, building on the existing base that G-Star have developed so far, which is really exciting.
TB: What is the continuing work you do with Pharrell Williams? AT: Pharrell works as the ‘Head of Imagination’, with his role injecting creativity on all levels, from product and collections, to advertising and global business strategy. I work closely with Pharrell to incorporate his design input into the collection. TB: What will be the standout products from the G-Star brand under your guidance in 2017? AT: We have some really exciting new developments and a couple that we already introduced in 2016, including the ‘Staq’ jeans and the ‘Motion’ concept. Some of these we are continuing in 2017, but there are quite a lot of new 3D denim designs that we are going to showcase. Primarily they come from the Raw Research capsule collection as it feeds into the general brand later on, but there are also other styles that have been developed outside of Raw Research within the general collection. There is also a lot of exciting new outerwear, restoration techniques on denim and a new approach to our graphic T-shirt design language, where we are really trying to capture the essence of what RAW means; the idea of being RAW, the idea of being democratic as a brand and also encouraging you to be true to yourself. We have a great way of expressing this through an exciting new graphical approach.
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A–Z
OF THE NEW SEASON
MWB presents the very best of a/w 17. —
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BLENDING CULTURES AT BOXFRESH u THIS SEASON SEES FOOTWEAR LABEL BOXFRESH DRAW INSPIRATION FROM TWO SOURCES - THE BUSTLING STREETS OF NEW YORK AND, IN CONTRAST, THE MORE NOMADIC AND TEMPORARY LIFESTYLE. INSPIRATION FROM NYC’S IMPRESSIVE ARCHITECTURE IS CONVEYED IN A SERIES OF CLEAN LINES AND ALMOSTSTRUCTURAL SILHOUETTES, PRESENTING A COLLECTION OF FASHION FORWARD STYLES ACROSS SPORTS, CASUAL AND FUNCTION WITH AN ATTENTION TO DETAIL MAKING THE OFFER UNDENIABLY BOXFRESH. —
ALPHA INDUSTRIES EXPANDS NASA COLLABORATION Leading outerwear specialist Alpha Industries continues to strengthen its position in the market with a comprehensive a/w 17 collection. New camo prints sit alongside a mix of nylon and cotton, while the brand’s successful NASA range has been expanded for the season ahead. The collaboration sees the iconic MA-1 jacket feature design details such as NASA branded patches to the chest and sleeve. Updates include sweats, tees, souvenir jackets, sheepskin collars, patched out bombers, parkas and field jackets. Alpha Industries’ accessories offer, meanwhile, will develop, with backpacks sitting alongside helmet bags, duffle bags and shoulder bags, all in flight nylon. —
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PRINTS AND BADGES IN RUBBER, PIGMENT AND FLOCK FEATURE THROUGHOUT THE LABELS BENCH OFFER. —
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FABRICATION TAKES CENTRE STAGE AT BUGATTI Featuring a modern, slightly fitted silhouette, the latest Bugatti collection puts the focus on quality fabrications and simple structures. Jerseys and stretch woven grades take up a major part of the collection, with the fabric palette expanding into smudged dog-tooth checks, bouclés and striking herringbone, some with neoprene reverse. Highlights include two-in-one styles, reversible with detachable waistcoat inserts, and travel parkas with well-designed interior features such as pocket umbrellas providing multi-use functionality and mobility. —
After five seasons of drawing inspiration from around the world, Elvine returns to its Gothenburg roots for a/w 17. Key styles include the wool duffle, a slightly slimmer version of the classic duffle with fewer details; the bomber jacket, which is a no-nonsense style with subtle zip detail; and the M65, a straight cut fourpocket jacket with hidden hood. —
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GREY MATTERS AT JOULES q
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FLANNEL MAKES ITS COMEBACK AT ALBERTO q
Soft wool and flannel trousers are making their return, featuring prominently in Alberto’s latest collection. Plain colours take a backseat as bolder schemes in tweed look, traditional checks and outsized plaids create a dandy effect. A key style for the new season is the Baggy – a dramatically altered version of the sweatpant that now features pleats and comfortable elastic at the waist and hems. Buyers can expect elaborate washes, innovative surface treatments and high-quality Italian fabrics. —
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HACIENDA u INSPIRED BY THE 80S AND 90S MANCHESTER MUSIC SCENE, ETON PRESENTS THE HACIENDA COLLECTION, WHICH PLAYS TRIBUTE TO THE CITY’S INFAMOUS WAREHOUSE NIGHTCLUB THE HACIENDA, AND ASSOCIATED RECORD LABEL FACTORY RECORDS. CHARACTERISED BY ECLECTIC PATTERNS, THE COLLECTION FEATURES DETAILS INSPIRED BY MOTIFS FROM THE INTERIOR OF THE CLUB AND THE ICONIC ALBUM COVERS OF THE ERA. —
British lifestyle label Joules embarks on the new season with a focus on classic, simple style, inspired by rural weekends in the great outdoors. Dark hues of grey and navy dominate the colour palette, seen throughout structured coats and tailored blazers, whereas pops of colour such as oil yellow and maroon are injected sporadically. Off-duty layering is key for easy-to-wear style, with classic stripes and checks continuing to reign in the shirting collection, designed to be worn under cable knitwear. —
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ARTISAN ELEMENTS ADD INTEREST FOR A/W 17 Newness and innovation are key to Olymp’s continued success, with this season being no different. New prints are inspired by the world of tapestry, alongside paisleys, while matt-gloss effects from jacquards and satin introduce added interest. Dense weaves and diversity in structure provide the base of the collection, with the finer detail coming from artisan elements such as piped edges and chrome buttons. Buyers can also expect the find a cotton/cashmere quality in 14gg, boiled wool with slub effects, tweed and finally printed wool and cotton. —
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JOURNEYS, DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION t FOR A/W 17, LIFESTYLE LABEL FARAH JEANS DRAWS INSPIRATION FROM MOUNTAINEER, WRITER, PHOTOGRAPHER AND LECTURER SIR CHRIS BONNINGTON, WHO STARTED CLIMBING IN 1951 AT THE AGE OF 16 AND LED 19 HIMALAYAN EXPEDITIONS, INCLUDING FOUR TO EVEREST. FORM AND FUNCTION COMBINE AS HEAVILY QUILTED PARKAS AND GILETS OFFER PROTECTION AGAINST THE ELEMENTS, WHILE KNITWEAR FEATURES TWO HEAVY GAUGE LAMBSWOOL KNITS, OFFERED IN A CREW NECK JUMPER AND SHAWL NECK CARDIGAN. —
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MAC STRENGTHENS ITS DENIM OFFER The new season will see trouser specialist MAC launch its innovative long-stretch denim. It is longitudinally elastic and therefore offers extra comfort, especially for those wearers who sit for a long period of time in the office. Elaborate animal laser prints and embroideries, camouflage prints, florals and animal patches, meanwhile, are more fashion-led highlights of the denim collection. —
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KNITTING SUCCESS INTO ITS DNA q KNITWEAR SPECIALIST SLAITH WILL LAUNCH A BRAND NEW STYLE THIS COMING SEASON - A LONG SLEEVED POLO SHIRT, AVAILABLE IN ALL SHADES. —
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LOUNGEWEAR q
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MAC LOUNGEWEAR TAKES CENTRE STAGE AT MEY New fabric qualities in a wide range of materials are reflected in the a/w 17 collection from Mey. Interesting material mixes in synthetic microyarns blended with cotton yarns provide comfort for the wearer. Dark blue tones create the core of the Mey palette this season, while delicate shades of jade and a light grey melange balance the colour scheme. —
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NOMADS AND A NUDGE TO THE 90S q Building on its heritage, this season sees iconic French footwear brand Palladium unveil a trilogy of product categories, embedding function and purpose for the young, urban nomad. The Heritage range sees the unveiling of a collaboration between Palladium and the official Smiley brand – a nod to the underground 90s acid house scene in which Palladium was a footwear choice of many. Urbanity (featuring the Pallasider pictured), meanwhile, unites function and style. Inspired by the brand’s origins supplying tyres to the military aviation industry, a/w 17 sees new, bold, oversized sole units. —
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PURPLE DANDIES AT BENVENUTO q
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O’NEILL’S TRANSITION THROUGH THE SEASON q Inspired by journeys through the urban wilderness, performance clothing specialist O’Neill has gone that extra mile this season to create an outerwear option for every possibility. This transseasonal concept covers all shapes and fits, weights and fills, functional fabrication and utility trends. Buyers will find versatility in silhouettes, alongside different fill levels (polyfill, down, featherless). Recycled polyester and organic cotton, meanwhile, support sustainability. —
PURPLE RAIN The fusion of formalwear and sportswear continues at Benvenuto Purple this season. The younger, fashion-led sub-line of German label Benvenuto presents a capsule collection, 360°, featuring jersey items with high percentages of stretch, carbon looks, neoprene, bonding, coating and reflection. The brand’s coordinating sneakers pick up reflective detailing. A highlight of the collection is the Sneaker Suit, made of techno jersey – a firm favourite with buyers last season. —
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Q IS FOR...
QUALITY CONTINUES AT ETERNA t NEW SEASON FOCUSES ON COMFORT Two trends shape the latest collection from premium shirt label Eterna. The formalwear line welcomes a more relaxed design ethos, while the casual segment becomes smarter, creating a new look that works for both. At the same time, there is a greater demand for functionality and new fabric characteristics. As a result, jersey and bi-elastic materials feature strongly throughout. The collection also focuses on the theme of cosiness, a desire for comfort and relaxation. In shirts, this trend is reflected in soft fabric textures, light-weight flannels with a cashmere feel, buffed textile surfaces and warm autumn colours. —
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REVIVING ITS ROOTS u DRAWING ON ITS MOD HERITAGE, MERC RETURNS TO THE 60S FOR A/W 17, BRINGING THE CORE ASPECTS OF THE BRAND INTO THE MODERN DAY. THE LOOK AND STYLE OF THE COLLECTION IS REMINISCENT OF THE PEAK OF 60S BRIT STYLE, WITH SMART AND FUNCTIONAL JACKETS AND SLIM SILHOUETTES MIXED WITH RETRO STYLED KNITWEAR, ALONGSIDE PAISLEY AND CHECK BUTTON DOWN SHIRTS. —
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SKOPES
BENVENUTO
CARL GROSS
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UNDERSTATED STYLE q
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SHARP CUTS q Synonymous with interesting fabrics and surprising design detail, Finnish menswear label French doesn’t disappoint this season. Featuring a checked pattern throughout, similar to the city plan of Helsinki, the colour palette remains subtle in hues of blues and greys. Highlights include the Onni coat, a tailored long coat with asymmetric buttoning; Sampo, jogging bottoms in wool fabric; and the Jussi jacket, a hybrid of a blazer and shirt. —
Seidensticker presents a comprehensive shirting collection this season, split into four themed groups. Smart Business features fine Oxfords and melange fabrics in checks, stripes and print motifs, while Luxury Cards incorporates thicker yarns for a higher quality feel. New Winter Darks, meanwhile, features a range of deep, rich tones, while Micro & Macro sees the brand play with different sizes and repeats to create intriguing graphic images. —
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T IS FOR...
TAILORED FOR SUCCESS t SARTORIAL TAILORING MAKES ITS RETURN FOR A/W 17, FOLLOWING ON FROM A MORE CASUAL APPROACH TO DRESSING THE LAST THREE SEASONS. SLIM FITTING DOUBLE BREASTED MODELS STAND OUT AT BRITISH MENSWEAR LABEL SKOPES, WHILE GERMAN BRANDS BENVENUTO, CARL GROSS AND ROY ROBSON FOCUS ON A MIX AND MATCH APPROACH TO BLEND EFFORTLESSLY WITH THE WEARER’S CURRENT WARDROBE. — ROY ROBSON
W IS FOR...
WINTER SHADES p The latest collection from Digel offers perfectly coordinated outfits for business and leisure, which now includes footwear for the first season. Sober in its colour palette, the collection features highlights such as the field jacket made from goat Nappalan with all-over quilting, feather-light with a contrasting interior in navy and brown. Jerseys and knitwear, meanwhile, define jackets, waistcoats and blousons, which are all among the important protagonists of the season. —
V IS FOR...
VENTI INTRODUCES THE SNEAKER SHIRT u
LATEST INNOVATION SEES VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL ELASTICITY. A first in the brand’s shirting category, the new season sees Venti unveil its Sneaker shirt. Made from four-way stretch, this innovative style offers the wearer vertical, as well as horizontal, elasticity, guaranteeing comfort and total freedom of movement. The tailoring with elastic yarns, interlining, cuffs and selvage supports the extreme flexibility without making any concessions in shirt care, which remains non-iron. The styling, meanwhile, corresponds to the current athleisure trend with neon yellow accents, mesh inserts and rubber buttons. Besides plain white, the brand also offers marine and black. — uuu
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X IS FOR...
XL ADDITION FOR BEWLEY AND RITCH q This season sees Manchester menswear label Bewley and Ritch expand its offer with a larger size specification. Ranging up to 4XL, the brand has picked up on the growing plus size market, accounting for 12.4 per cent of the overall clothing sales in the UK. Currently selling to a number of larger online retailers such as Jacamo and Slaters, Bewley and Ritch are planning on opening a number of new doors in a/w 17. —
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ZIP DETAILING AND TECHNICAL FINISHES q
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YOUNG OFFENDERS q
The a/w 17 collection from Antony Morato outlines a sports-inspired and urban context, with technical fabrications sitting next to woollen ribs and satin revers. —
INNOVATION IS KEY TO THE NEW SEASON A/w 17 sees British menswear label Weekend Offender utilise the core colours of grey, navy and black for the new season. Military uniform green and lighter shades of blue are used across outerwear, fleece and jersey pieces, while pink and rich berry shades are spotted throughout. New fabrics introduced for the season include Met-tek, a nylon fabric with a yarn coated metallic thread. Tri-tek is a new fleece fabric developed by the team at Weekend Offender, with a rib type outer face and smooth face worn next to the skin for comfort. —
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160 YEARS IN THE MAKING B E A PA R T O F T H E M O S T E XC LU S I V E K N I T W E A R B R A N D F O R G E N E R AT I O N S A L I M I T E D N U M B E R O F R E TA I L L I S T I N G S A V A I L A B L E . T O E N Q U I R E A B O U T B E C O M I N G A N E X C L U S I V E S T O C K I S T, C A L L + 4 4 ( 0 ) 1 4 8 4 8 4 8 4 3 4 O R E M A I L I N F O R M AT I O N @ S L A I T H. C O. U K
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FRESH BEGINNINGS The start of a new year is the perfect time to establish business goals and aspirations. Rebecca Jackson speaks to menswear retailers about their 2017 in-store resolutions. — EAMONN CUNNINGHAM q EJ MENSWEAR, SLIGO, IRELAND “I want to keep doing what we’re doing with the same energy and enthusiasm, and keep coming up with unique marketing ideas that help keep us ahead of our competitors. We need to at all times be able to back up the messages we send out via our marketing campaigns. Finally, being in business, our obvious goal has to be to increase turnover and margin – both a big challenge on the back of our busiest year ever in 2016… Bring it on.” —
ROWAN HINES u OWNER, ROOM 14 MENSWEAR, ASHTON-UNDER-LYNE, LANCASHIRE “I’m happy with the balance of brands in-store, so it’s about keeping on doing what we’re doing for next year. It’ll be our 12-year anniversary at the end of March and we’ve got to this point successfully. This year will be a bit of a funny one – what with the uncertainty of Brexit and the price increases – so we’ll approach with some caution. Generally speaking, I’m quite happy to keep on with the service we’re providing.” —
RICK GAGLIO OWNER, TWISTEDFABRIC, HITCHIN, HERTFORDSHIRE
VINCE CLARKE DIRECTOR, THE PRIORY MENSWEAR, BRIDLINGTON, EAST YORKSHIRE
STEVE ENGLISH MANAGING DIRECTOR, COOSHTI, BRISTOL
“This year will be all about strengthening the Twistedfabric name and focusing on our role as a lifestyle store. We’re based in a town that really appreciates independents, where it’s all about doing something a bit different. Therefore, I’m looking to diversify the mix of lifestyle products while cutting back on discounting and major sales. Brands that discount heavily online have left independents unable to compete, so I won’t be stocking them in the New Year.” —
“One area that we are focusing on in the New Year is balancing risk. Ensuring that we have the relevant support from the brands is crucial, either with solid sell-through focused marketing or in the form of a security blanket, which is margin at the start of the season or at the end in the form of supported markdown. Our business is growing with brands that understand the changing retail climate and this approach is more of a collaborative tactic.” —
“Having just relaunched our website cooshti.com with a new, much cleaner and more user friendly design, we are looking to grow our online sales significantly over the year, and increase our digital marketing activity as well as bringing in some more upmarket brands and securing some higher tiered sportswear product. We’re also planning improvements to the store over the course of the year, helping to make us a real destination store as one of the UK’s most established independents.” —
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KRISTIAN CREWS t DIRECTOR, SPOKE AND STRINGER, BRISTOL “Over the next 12 months we are looking to publish our own lifestyle/cookbook. We have been releasing our own journals each season this year which sum up what we do, why we do it and have some secret recipes from our brunch/tapas restaurant which we run alongside our lifestyle store. We’re also throwing some ideas together to expand our own clothing line with BEE Outerwear. We’ve done some pop-up shops in London with BEE and are excited to work on some shirts and denim with them to build on our popular Ride Culture T-shirts & Raglans.” —
BEN GOODMAN p BUSINESS PARTNER, GOODMAN APPAREL & BARBERS, HASTINGS, EAST SUSSEX “We want to push ourselves in 2017 by introducing another barber chair in our shop, as we are at the point now where we are turning away customers. We also want to continue offering a high quality service to our customers where we offer them more than just a haircut. Our focus is on giving our shop a social atmosphere where guys can hang out.” —
STUART HOPKINS MANAGER, ZIGZAG, CHICHESTER “There’s less room for error now, so really for us it’s about keeping orders tight and making sure not to over-order on stock. We focused on stock management during 2016 and I’m happy with how things are going, though we need to make sure we are able to respond quickly to customer orders.” —
MARTIN MCQUILLAN OWNER, MCQUILLANS MENSWEAR, PORTADOWN, CRAIGAVON “Business has been good this year. We’ve seen an increase in customers who want to come into the store as opposed to going online, so we’re planning to continue concentrating on a strong customer focus. We have to approach this year with some caution, as there’s some uncertainty around what will change due to Brexit; however we remain optimistic.” —
JACK SCHNEIDER u MENSWEAR BUYER AT ACCENT CLOTHING, LEEDS “We were really honoured to have been voted Best Fashion Retailer in Leeds by the public, as we are always striving to improve our customers’ experience with us and will continue this into 2017. We are also looking to host more live events, after winning the PRS Music Makeover competition. We were awarded £5,000 worth of music equipment and a PA system for live music. We feel this is a great way to interact with our customers and look forward to what 2017 will bring.” —
GUY HUDSON OWNER, LYNX MENSWEAR, HARROGATE, NORTH YORKSHIRE
GRACE BAKER BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER, THREAD, LONDON
“Lynx Menswear will be on the lookout to expand our diverse range of British and European brands. We will be spending more time sourcing new product and discovering independent labels, giving our customers new and exclusive styles not found online. We will continue to move forward with passion and enthusiasm, providing a total shopping experience rather than just an underwhelming e-commerce shopping cart.” —
“Our goals for 2017 will go far beyond making sales. In a crowded marketplace, we are obsessed with providing innovative and tangible value with a thoughtful and increasingly more personalised service for our customers. Our business development team will be focusing on a democratic approach to partnerships, ensuring we have the perfect assortment of brands for our users ranging from Marks & Spencer through to Paul Smith and Burberry. Our end goal being that we help guys feel good, as well as making it easy for them to look great.” —
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THE RIGHT FIT As French trouser and jacket specialist Bruno Saint Hilaire prepares to make its anticipated return to the UK market for autumn/winter 2017, Victoria Jackson visited the team in Toulouse to discover what lies at the heart of the brand’s DNA – a DNA which remains the same today as it did over 40 years ago. — It’s clear to see instantly on meeting with Fabrice Dorr, CEO of French trouser specialist Bruno Saint Hilaire, that his passion for the brand is as prevalent today as it was when he originally joined the company in the early 90s. Leaving the company to work with brands such as Dior Childrenswear, outerwear label K-Way and iconic footwear label Caterpillar, Dorr rejoined Bruno Saint Hilaire four years ago after realising the untapped potential it still had within the market. Launched in 1973 by Bruno Le Cottier, the brand entered the domestic French market with its signature City Look trouser style – a model which remains a bestseller today. Following that came a denim pant, suited for the city wearer, and by the early 90s Bruno Saint Hilaire had developed into a lifestyle label producing suits, jackets and shirting, creating a more rounded offer for its shopper. “The DNA of the brand has always been quality, innovation and fit – fit being at the centre of every design decision we make,” explains Dorr. “Our customers know that whatever size they are with us, whether buying a chino, a city pant or a denim style, the garment will still fit.” It was this customer satisfaction that enabled Bruno Saint Hilaire to open over 200 doors nationwide, including some of the UK’s key independents, when it first entered the market in 1995. With sales overseen by agent Mike Smith, it’s fair to say Bruno Saint Hilaire was a market leader. However, under previous management, the company tried to develop too fast and when combined with the tough trading conditions that crippled many when the recession hit, 2009 saw the brand leave the UK. “It came as a blow to many retailers, especially as Saint Hilaire was a real bread and butter brand to a large number of stores,” explains Smith. “That’s why, when Fabrice approached me about coming back to the UK, I was confident retailers, both old and new, would see our core values remained the same now as they did back then.” “It’s about building that trust back with the retailers and to remind them how strong a company we were, and are today,” notes Dorr. “We want to revisit key accounts, but also show our product to new mainstream menswear retailers who are looking for a high quality product capturing that classic French design and a fit we are renowned for.” Currently stocked in Europe, Canada and the US, the brand saw a credible £20m turnover for the 2015 financial year and is predicting similar growth for 2016. With UK sales being managed by Smith and his team once again, buyers will be
FABRICE DORR
able to view the full a/w 17 collection at the forthcoming edition of Moda. “Moda is definitely the right platform for us to make our return – it attracts the buyers we want to see and the adjacencies are right,” says Smith. With a target of 30-40 accounts to open this season, what does the competition look like? “In terms of who we sit next to, I’d say the likes of Digel, Meyer, Hugo Boss and Tommy Hilfiger in terms of quality and price point,” says Dorr. “What makes us stand out from the competition? Better price value and consistency of a great fit. “Our target customer is the 40+ man who likes to look good and has the disposable income to be able to buy slightly more expensive pieces of clothing,” he continues. “Although our design team doesn’t necessarily follow trends, we know how to adapt and translate key movements within the menswear industry to cater for our customers’ needs.” One example of this is the introduction of the City range – a mix and match suit collection available on a NOS program. Produced from Italian Marzotto fabric, each garment is stain resistant, wrinkle-proof, easy care, machine washable and durable, with retail prices averaging £90-£120 for trousers, £280 for jackets and £400 for a complete suit. “Our customer is the kind of man who travels for work,” explains Dorr. “He needs to know that
once he disembarks the plane or gets out of the car, his suit is still going to look as good as it did when he got dressed that morning.” One of the last surviving brands in France to do everything in-house, from design through to sourcing fabrics, trimmings and details, every garment is manufactured in Europe and the Mediterranean. “Being so close means we are able to be as rigorous as we need to be with quality checks,” confirms Dorr. Rather than resting on its laurels, the brand launched BSH73 – a capsule collection featuring prints, colour and a slightly more relaxed take on tailoring – four years ago to cater for the less conservative customer. Now accounting for 40 per cent of the collection across both men’s and womenswear, each season welcomes new developments and exciting design details. Although 70 per cent of the business is men’s, the womenswear market is still a priority for Dorr. “Yes, it’s a tougher market to thrive in, certainly,” he says. “Women aren’t as loyal as male shoppers, but pieces like our Perfect Lift denim, which are figure enhancing jeans that sculpt the body, attract a strong following.” With plans to launch a B2B website specifically for the UK and POS and shop-in-shop retail fixtures available for retailers, the brand is serious about regaining its place in the market once again. It seems now might be a case of right time, right fit.
M O DA M E N SW E A R , N E C B I R M I N G H A M , 1 9 -2 1 F E B R UA RY, STA N D N O: M 1 8 E N Q U I R ES: D O M I N I C.O M A L L EY@ P E RY.C O M
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ZONE TWO’S GROWTH MISSION FOR 2017
There’s a lot going on at Zone Two, the UK distributors for Scotch & Soda and Samsoe & Samsoe and head agency for Eastpak. Now in bed with US footwear giants Wolverine, Zone Two is heading up UK distribution for Wolverine-owned Sperry and Pro-Keds, as well as taking on the likes of Joe’s Jeans from LA, K-Way, EFM and Esemplare. Tom Bottomley finds out more from sales and marketing director Chris Akrimi. —
There’s a certain hunger at UK distributors Zone Two to grow the business and offer up a one-stop shop of desirable fashion across all categories – menswear, womenswear, childrenswear, footwear and accessories. With a strong anchor brand in Scotch & Soda continuing to be a reliable performer and maintain its organic growth, along with Samsoe & Samsoe going from strength to strength and Easkpak being another heavyweight when it comes to sales-led impact, the scene is set. Zone Two can now take its business to another level at its 14,000 square foot premises at 26 Westland Place in Shoreditch. Zone Two’s sales and marketing director, Chris Akrimi, says: “Since the successful launch of Scotch & Soda and Samsoe & Samsoe, Zone Two has seen significant acceleration over the last few years, and 2017 is gearing up to be one of our
most significant growth phases to date as we take responsibility for a number of new brand-led introductions to our stable.” These include premium LA denim brand Joe’s Jeans, footwear brands Sperry and Pro-Keds, heritage outerwear brand K-Way, and premium outerwear brands EFM and Esemplare. As part of Zone Two’s brand development strategy, they have also invested in significant new showroom space, taking the company’s purpose built showroom and offices in Shoreditch from 10,000 sq ft to 14,000 sq ft. It will mean more new showroom space to house the new brands, as well as existing names that also include Psycho Bunny and King & Tuckfield. Akrimi says that the strategy is to grow the branded offer whilst avoiding crossover. “Each of the new brands which we have taken on provides clear distinction in the market, giving Zone Two the opportunity to grow without cannibalising
existing sales. Also, all of these companies are part of much bigger organisations, each with robust logistics, marketing, branding and retail teams, which goes some significant way in supporting our growth ambitions.” Scotch & Soda currently operates four stores in London, while K-Way will open a new UK store in early 2017. Additionally, both Samsoe & Samsoe and Eastpak are actively looking for London store locations, and Zone Two will be involved in securing and operating these stores. To satisfy the growth of its business, Zone Two is also expanding its team members. It currently has a team of 50, which will grow to 60 over the next 12 months. Footwear was one key area that Zone Two was keen to bring in to its business, so when the opportunity came up to work with Boston-based brand powerhouse Wolverine, it was hotly uuu
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pursued. Pro-Keds and Sperry are, after all, two massive US brands with abundance of heritage. Says Akrimi: “There is a feeling out there that although there is this whole sport-lux and technical look going on, there is also a shift back to more heritage and vintage-inspired looks. From our point of view, Pro-Keds, which made the original ‘chukka’ basketball boots – even before Converse – fits in with this resurgence. Even Lanvin showed original plimsoll-type shoes in their most recent catwalk show.” The game-plan for Zone Two now is for them to be a distributor that retailers can go to and spend all day buying across several different brands and product categories. “In the future, the sartorial look will come back and we will also be on the lookout to have a tailoring offer,” says Akrimi. With the EFM (Engineered for Motion) brand, the connection for Akrimi goes back to his days at Fashion Marketing. As sales director there he launched Mastrum in the UK, a brand designed by one Donrad Duncan (who was previously the designer of Victorinox also in the Fashion Marketing stable), who left Mastrum to set up EFM. “There’s an old connection there, says,” Akrimi. “With Mastrum I got Donrad involved with Lorenzo Osti to look at the Masimo Osti archive for design inspiration. We took that from zero to about 60 accounts in the UK within a two-year period.” EFM is only just in its second season, and a/w 17 will be its main introduction to the market. Akrimi is expecting good things to happen with that. Esemplare from Italy is another welcome addition to the Zone Two portfolio. “I think there’s a void in the marketplace,” offers Akrimi. “The UK landscape is very outerwear driven, with the likes
of Stone Island, C.P. Company, Canada Goose and Moncler having a strong foothold in the UK. So technical outerwear and sportswear has, for a long time, been in the DNA of the UK market. Esemplare, as well as EFM, are our new offers to the marketplace in this sector.” Esemplare is owned by Italian group Pattern SRL, which makes for brands including Tom Ford, Burberry and Nike ACG. “It’s top-end manufacturing, made in Italy and it’s all premium, sartorial and technical outerwear and high-end sportswear,” comments Akrimi. Previously Esemplare was selling to UK accounts (only 10 so far) directly via trade shows. It was one such account, Woods in Maidstone, that recommended Zone Two take it on for the UK. “The one thing was it was very unbranded, so we have changed that for the UK market for a/w 17 so it will appeal to that UK ‘urban insider’ kind of consumer. The kind of guy who goes to the football, and those who can appreciate a well put together technical garment.” Akrimi describes EFM as “more sportlux,” whereas Esemplare is “more sophisticated, tailored outerwear.” Dipping in to the denim market for Zone Two comes LA brand Joe’s Jeans. Initially it will be much more of a push with the women’s offer, though the men’s denim will also be available. It’s not been in the UK market for a couple of years, so effectively it’s a clean slate for Zone Two to target key accounts. As part of the LA premium denim scene, Joe’s Jeans are available in all the major department stores in the US. Big advertising and marketing campaigns have certainly helped to elevate the brand’s status, with top American model Bella Hadid currently fronting the campaigns. “There is actually a big investment to now develop the
PSYCHO BUNNY
CHRIS AKRIMI
menswear as well,” states Akrimi. “Another year down the line and we will start to properly establish the men’s collection too. It will appeal to a more sophisticated customer, probably more in the 25-45 year-old consumer range.” The other interesting new addition to the Zone Two portfolio is Paris-founded but now Italian owned K-Way, famous for its cagoules. Up until now, there have only been different variations of the cagoules available to buy in the UK, with stockists including Selfridges and Oi Polloi. But, having visited the brand’s Italian HQ, Akrimi says the collection is actually much bigger. “The reality is, the collection has almost 350 pieces. It’s a huge full-blown collection, with polo shirts, T-shirts, shearling pieces, technical outerwear, skiwear and so on. That’s how they sell in the French market, which is their number one market, and in Italy, their number two market. But none of that has ever been exposed to the UK market.” Zone Two could be on to another winner there then. K-Way already has 40 existing UK accounts, but this will give them the ammunition to grow that strong base considerably – and in much greater depth. Akrimi views UK retailers as pivotal in telling the story of the brands they carry. He says: “There is no doubt the internet has a significant role to play when it comes to convenience-led shopping. However, there is no comparison to traditional bricks-and-mortar for the immersive, service-led approach to presenting fashion. A big part of our business is storytelling, and there are no better tellers of stories than best-of-breed stores which, at their best, create the most seductive backdrops from which we can present our collections.” Zone Two certainly now has plenty of those to show for a/w 17 and beyond.
ENG FOR MOTION
DAVID AG AR - UK NORTH CELL 0788 537 6469 S T EPHEN GR AY - UK SOU T H CELL 0798 024 1025
PANORAMA BERLIN MODA UK BIRMINGHAM
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SCOTTISH POWER Built on an ethos that supports craft produce, simple classics and quality basics, Dick’s Edinburgh opened in Stockbridge in November 2012. Situated within a lively village often dubbed the bohemian area of Scotland’s capital, its location is the perfect environment for independent design. Rebecca Jackson speaks to co-owner of the store Andrew Dick to find out more. —
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Based in Stockbridge, a lively village in Edinburgh, Dick’s Edinburgh opened in 2012 as a means to present a carefully selected collection of menswear, womenswear, accessories and homeware. Owners of the store Andrew Dick and Uli Schade handpick brands that specialise in craft and have a common philosophy of quality and longevity. This ethos is central to everything they do. It’s a world away from London, which the husband and wife team used to call home. “We wanted to be somewhere quieter, more compact,” says Dick. “I was working as a journalist at the Guardian newspaper. Uli was and is still a photographer, and we fancied being close to one set of our parents. I’m from Edinburgh and grew up near Stockbridge. With real passion for well-made, functional things – from clothing to homewares – we thought it would be a good mix for an Edinburgh shop.” Offering up a pared-down line of modern, simple classics and quality basics, Dick’s does not aim to cater to a particular demographic. Customers are described as the type of people who hold other interests and are not clothes obsessives. As Dick says: “Just folk who like great quality”. The majority of buying takes place in Florence and Paris, at shows such as Pitti Uomo. Dick and Schade handle all aspects of the sourcing. Next season will see the duo focus on developing existing lines in-store, with no plans to drastically change the brand offering. It’s not difficult to see why, when taking into account the type of product on offer. “The store isn’t about fashion but longevity. Everything in the store is really well considered; we edit it right down so people don’t have to. They simply know that every product in here is made by the best manufacturer in their field,” says Dick. The in-store brands mix is varied, catering to a wide range of product categories and geographical areas. The focus is on brands such as Eribe, Harley and Howlin’ – all knitwear pieces made in Scotland and Ireland. However, Dick’s doesn’t just stock labels which are reserved exclusively to local areas. Independent brands are sourced from around the world.
Other key pieces include shoes from less than 10 per cent of takings originating from Northampton by Trickers and Sanders; T-shirts, online in comparison to in-store. It seems the store polos and boxers by Sunspel; Breton shirts by naturally benefits from its supportive environment, a Orcival and workers’ jackets by Vetra, as well as bags village which promotes independent design and by Edinburgh based Soda Kitsch. Homeware appreciates one of a kind stores such as Dick’s. In an includes Royal Sussex Trugs and Swedish Korbo area that shies away from the commercial attitude of baskets; hand-forged pans by Turk; and skincare the high street, the bricks and mortar space has products by Aesop. flourished. Elsewhere in-store, leather wallets, pencil Inspiration for the in-store aesthetic was taken cases and footballs are made by Sonnenleder; from a number of shops around the world, especially kitchen knives are available from French label those in Japan. Inspired by that country’s strong Opinel and German brand Windmühlenmesser. focus on craft, the store’s minimalistic appearance Decorative handmade wooden crows are by Swedish highlights an unpretentious, uncomplicated attitude designer Mikael Nilsson and woodblock letter prints to shopping. Taking on much of the renovation work, by Chris Sleath, a local printmaker based in Dick and Schade wanted the store aesthetic to Edinburgh, are hand printed especially for the store. reflect the tone and quality of the products and Knowing where your product has come from labels stocked in-store. Schade designed the interior and the story behind how it was made is of vital of the store and basement, and a local carpenter importance to Dick and Schade – an ethos which is made the interior oak fittings. A friend of the couple passed on to the customer. The desire to support used lime plaster on the walls, adding a contemporary and stock small independent labels which convey feel to the Georgian building. The result is a simple quality and a passion for manufacturing was one of appearance featuring a washed wooden floor, the initial inspirations for setting up the store. It is utilitarian steel, grey walls and wooden fittings. Dick’s aim to have every existing Scottish Running the store has not been without its manufacturer represented, and his passion for craft challenges for Dick and Schade – as any retailer seems to have an infectious effect on the store’s might expect in the current climate. Road closures customers. in the local area, Brexit, drastic and continuous “The real high has been the overwhelmingly discounting by other shops are all challenges that positive response to the shop and people sharing Dick has faced since opening its doors four years our ideas about the way things are made being ago. However, considering the duo opened the important. I think our brand mix is really developing. business in the midst of a recession, with many And everything is made by folk who other like-minded businesses sadly are passionate about what they do closing up around them, they have and it shows. Now it’s a case of “ The real high has thrived as a bricks and mortar finding the best products we can store. been the from small manufacturers,” Dick As for the future of the store, overwhelmingly says. there are no immediate grand Starting life as a menswear plans. In fact, rather appropriately positive response store, the store has expanded to when you take into account the to the shop and stock homeware, accessories and careful and considered approach people sharing our so far, the future of the store is also womenswear since its initial conception. However, menswear is carefully considered. It’s all about ideas about the the bestselling category in-store – as Dick puts it – “Slow and steady way things are and online. The same stock is evolution”. offered on both platforms, but with — made being
important.”
www.propress.co.uk
Fashion
Styled by Steam
The Lost Generation MWB highlights the standout pieces to consider in-store across the young, contemporary menswear sector. Photographer: Richard Boyle Stylist: Victoria Jackson Male Model: Harrison Giles www.bossmodelmanagement.co.uk Female Model: Shannon Aitken www.bossmodelmanagment.co.uk
Bomber jacket – Alpha Industries £68 01869 366580 Denim jacket – Native Youth £20.25 0161 835 2064 Trousers – Black Eye Rags £80 07817 314663 Shirt – Duke £11.50 0115 977 0009 Bomber jacket – Y-Y Lin £78.40 0161 359 4320 Jumper – Bench £20 07827 813987 Jeans – Nine in the Morning £134 07767 614124 Jewellery – stylist’s own
Denim jacket – Solid Men £28.50 020 7488 1380 Jumper – Native Youth £16.50 0161 835 2064 Jogging bottoms – Weekend Offender £24 01332 342068
Bomber jacket – Alpha Industries £68 01869 366580 Denim jacket – Native Youth £20.25 0161 835 2064 Trousers – Black Eye Rags £80 07817 314663 Shirt – Duke £11.50 0115 977 0009
Denim jacket – Duke £14 0115 977 0009 Hoodie – Soulstar £12.99 01623 756644 Jogging bottoms – Samsoe & Samsoe £35.70 020 3137 3901 Backpack – Sprayground price on request www.sprayground.com Jewellery – Model’s own
Jacket – Luke £31.50 01869 366580 Shirt – Samsoe & Samsoe £30.80 020 3137 3901 Trousers – Casual Friday £16.30 020 3432 6387
Shacket – Samsoe & Samsoe £115.40 020 3137 3901 T-shirt – Chunk Clothing £13.50 020 7609 6758 Trousers – Bench £18 07827 813987 Trainers – Ylati £59.90 0039 0815 261242 Gilet – Parka London £66 020 7424 6889 Denim jacket – Native Youth £18.25 0161 835 2064 Leather trousers – SEN £659 07767 614124 T-shirt – People Tree £12 020 7042 8920 Boots – Fairfax & Favor £102 01760 338199
Jacket – Luke £70 01869 366580 Jumper – Solid Men £16 020 7488 1380 Jeans – DML Jeans £10 0161 864 6035 Trainers - Ylati £59.90 0039 0815 261242 Jewellery – model’s own
Jacket – Weekend Offender £46 01332 342068 Shirt – Blend He £12.20 020 3432 6387 Jeans – Solid Men £14.30 020 7488 1380 Shoes – Base London £33.37 020 8532 0000
FALL/WINTER
2017 COLLECTION
WILLIAM HEATON WDH MENSWEAR AGENCIES Crocodile House, Manor Gardens, Thorner LS14 3EQ Leeds - West Yorkshire
VISIT US ON: Moda Menswear 19. – 21.02.2017 N 38
Tel.: 0044 - 7831388888 Email: wheaton@saville-heaton.co.uk
www.redpoint-sportswear.com
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THE GREAT OUTDOORS As the autumn/winter 2017 buying season kicks off, outerwear brands are preparing to showcase their latest styles, innovations and developments. MWB takes a look at some of the key names to consider this month. —
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PARKA LONDON Launched in 2013 with the mission of transforming the parka into an affordable, modern classic, Parka London uses a range of quality fabrics and clever functional details that help to shield the wearer from the elements, while the design remains effortlessly stylish and easy to wear. The new a/w 17 collection highlights plush corduroy, luxe faux fur, textured borg trims and an autumnal, earthy palette of deep reds, rich blues and light grey tones that are perfect for an understated season. —
The a/w 17 collection from S4 presents an urban aesthetic with a strong athleisure focus. Polyamide stretch fabric promotes freedom of movement, while stuffed down is woven directly into garments’ outer fabric. Lighter quilted jackets come in varied shapes and sizes and feature different cuts, including waistcoats, transseasonal jackets, new sports coats and conventional bomber jackets. Fabrics are matte and functional, including a water-repellent wool effect and a wool fabric, often combined with polyesters or bonded with jerseys. Featured colours include light eggshell, grey, beige and woolly mixed tones in navy, dark moss or toffee, with accents of sangria red, amber and deep sky, and colourful eyelets, edging strips and cords. Northmile, the brand’s capsule collection, maintains its character with a range of classic jackets, bomber jackets and coats. —
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REDPOINT Inspiration for the coming season at Redpoint comes from nature, with an overall focus on creating a relaxed aesthetic. Combining functionality, fashion and comfort, the new collection presents a more sophisticated direction for the brand. Colours in the range are refined, with grey and blue tones and a new shade of red. Jackets are shorter for a/w 17, featuring fabrics that are inspired by moving surfaces and structure-based imagery. Jackets also embody an eye-catching pigment-wash appearance in a soft, light cotton/nylon double-dyed cloth. In trousers, the focus lies on new minimal prints and structure-based images as well as the trendy wool effect. This season also sees the launch of the men’s capsule collection, Nova Scotia, featuring designer materials, exclusive cuts and interior detailing. Using the idea “athleisure goes outdoors” the capsule collection offers an exclusive edit featuring a functional down jacket, which presents a seamless water-repellent finish and stretch fabric. —
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ROAMERS & SEEKERS For a/w 17, Bristol brand Roamers & Seekers presents a collection focused around timeless and traditional British style, and the culture that surrounds it. Inspired by the British countryside and nature, combined with the clean, sharp contemporary lines of urban settings, elements from both are seen in the new line. A key style in this mix is a clean-cut Prince of Wales check field coat that features a moleskin finish, providing the garment with a soft-to-thetouch yet robust quality. Unusual fabrics and colours come together in rebellious style on one garment, for example in the brand’s military olive shade fused with a bright blue lining. The brand continues to present its contemporary, smart aesthetic, with creative fabric mixes and one-off prints under the umbrella of grown-up street style. —
Nagano returns to its roots for a/w 17, with a collection that presents a tough and authentic aesthetic. Army, biker and bomber jackets all feature across the collection, while key colours include khaki, navy, and brown – in dark and light shades – mixed in with ice blue, dark orange, red and silver. Additional details such as pockets, collars, appliqués and badges are promoted across the range. The brand’s mountain jackets aim to go against the idea of the ‘hipster’ influence, and carry functional features including a cotton-tech fabric available in either tonal camouflage or in a waxed cotton/nylon blend. Windproof fabrics in both ripstop/wool mixes and twill/canvas combinations contribute to the idea of a masculine, robust and adventurous theme. Hardwearing denim features across the collection, steering away from stretch denim and fabrics often associated with cheap manufacturing. —
AW17 We are showing our collections at the below shows: Modefabriek, Amsterdam 22 - 23 January Jacket Required, London 26 - 27 January For more information or to view the AW17 collection please contact Email: sales@parkalondon.com Tel: (0)207 424 6889
www.parkalondon.com
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COLLECTIVE The people, the places, the products.
LITTLE BLACK BOOK BREW LAB 6-8 SOUTH COLLEGE STREET, EDINBURGH, EH8 9AA
SIMON SAYS 2016 was the year that gave us some new and charged additions to our modern lexicon of words. Some were less welcome than others. Is it any wonder that we needed ‘hygge’ in response to Trump, Brexit, alt-right and post-truth? For those yet to understand the importance of hygge, it follows the now well-worn path of embracing all things Skandi for the reason that they must be better as the air is cleaner. It’s all about simplicity, warmth and family. Think open fire, sheepskin rugs, candles. Cosy. Safe. My Christmas was HyggeMax. I rejected all invitations, stocked up on champagne, and we cooked, walked, ate, dozed and unwound. Friends received homemade cake as gifts; I made it to midnight Mass, at a church I’d hitherto not attended. For some reason the cheerful flyer popped through my letterbox made me imagine carols, old and new, children in laughably crude nativity outfits; doddery grandparents nodding off. But there was none of that at St Stephens. This was stern stuff. Pulpits, psalms and preaching. Incense; chants and promise of damnation even before the Queen’s speech. High Church rather than Hygge Church. So what lies ahead in 2017? Well, contrary to popular mood, I’m positive. Partly, I suppose, as things couldn’t get worse globally (please let me be right!) but also because I think that retailers and brands are seriously sharpening their act. There’s no doubt that some hefty price rises are coming through. We’ve tried to absorb as much of sterling’s drop as we can, but are raising our prices by around 5 per cent from next month. But rather than see this as a necessary evil, and try to get away with as much as possible, I see this as an opportunity to raise my game. We’ve increased the spec on our cufflinks and watches, to help justify the rises. And this is where I think that shops can do their part. Put pressure on suppliers to raise their game; better qualities, more POS, improved training. If they’re not supporting you, then don’t be afraid to drop them. Your customers would. We need to offer our customers something more; and more importantly, something that the web can’t do. Look at operators such as Amazon, and how easy they make it for customers. Are you making it that easy in store? And what else can you offer? It was one of the key words of 2016 but I believe it will be the headline for 2017. It’s experience. Only the very best experience will interest, attract and retain your customers. If you can do that, and send them out smiling, then you’ve got a great year ahead. — Simon Carter is the CEO of the eponymous brand and retail stores
Launched in 2012, from the outside Brew Lab appears to be a simple cafe, though inside tells a very different story. Fitting straight in with the quirky cobbled streets of Scotland’s capital, the store features four rotating singleorigin coffees: two brewed on the in-store brew bar located downstairs, and two on the espresso bar. A simple menu promotes other local cafes and producers, including tea from Pekoe Tea, pastries from Le Petit Francais, cakes from Lovecrumbs and soups from Union of Genius. Craft beers are also available from midday. The store plays host to a Coffee Training Lab, which is a facility in the basement of the premises. Hosting a range of masterclasses, sensory workshops and even corporate and trade events here, classes include Filter Brewing, Private Barista Training and Commercial Training & Consultancy. The in-store aesthetic is stripped back, showcasing bare bricks, distressed floorboards and reclaimed furniture. Leather armchairs, wooden benches, metal chairs and vintage pieces all contribute to the general vibe. —
PLAN B
MIKAEL SÖDERLINDH CEO of Happy Socks
I was working in the advertising industry for 10 years prior to launching Happy Socks with my friend Viktor Tell, who is the brand’s creative director. — That was the career path I had originally chosen, but then I went to live in Bali for a change of scenery and a new adventure. However, when the economy crashed in 2008, I got stuck with several land investments, which was just bad timing. That’s when Viktor and I came up with the idea of launching Happy Socks. Building a company up from scratch, with well-tailored design as the focus, was something I’d always dreamed of doing. If it hadn’t been Happy Socks, I suppose I would have built another company up from scratch, as good design with a point of difference and brand building was where my real passion lay. —
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CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL CHRISTOPHER MODOO CREATIVE MANAGER, CHESTER BARRIE I pretty much established a classic style of dress when I was 17 and have stuck with it ever since. Shoes are the most important part of my wardrobe and I have always worn English, Goodyear welted shoes from Northampton. My go-to pair are from George Cleverley and have a chisel toe and Cuban heel. They are almost a decade old and are still perfect. I will occasionally treat myself to pair of socks from New & Lingwood of Jermyn Street. They have the most amazing selection of colours. I wear a Chester Barrie suit most days in the office and always wear braces as the trousers hang better. Albert Thurston make the best, and my favourite pair were purchased from Next in the 1980s. I always wear a pocket square, even if I am not wearing a tie, and it is good that they have become popular again. Charvet in Paris always have a fantastic selection. Outside of work, I still wear a lot of tailoring and own more than 10 blue blazers. If I had to choose one, it would be my Chester Barrie worsted spun cashmere with broad peaked lapels in a rich dark blue. The cloth by John Cavendish of Huddersfield is extremely comfortable to wear in any climate. If not wearing a blazer or sports jacket, I will always wear a topcoat in winter. My most recent acquisition, again from Chester Barrie, is made in a stunning navy and grey dogtooth. I wear it with dark jeans and Chelsea boots. I tend to wear a lot more knits now, both casually and with tailoring. I really like Alan Paine trim fit Merino wool crew necks. I always pack one for travel as I really like the look with a grey suit. I think it looks smarter than an open necked shirt. I have really gone off that look. It was subversive in the 90s and stylish in the 00s but now it can look lazy and unfinished. For entertaining at home, or a relaxed evening at a friend’s house, I will sometimes wear a velvet smoking robe from Ede & Ravenscroft instead of a tailored evening jacket. As comfortable as the softest dressing gown, it has one small inside pocket designed to carry a brace of cigars.
SOCIETY
TOP TWEETS Stuart @stuartflatt This morning I was absolutely rinsed for wearing leather gloves. Guys, we all own & wear a decent pair of leather gloves right?! #menswear Lyst Man @LystMan YES! @Craig_Green_UK wins British Menswear Designer at the #FashionAwards Tyler Oakley @tyleroakley We’re all just brains driving around in meat vessels, isn’t that crazy??? Like for 70ish years we just get to hang out on earth & do stuff. Matt Haig @matthaig1 No way of being yourself and liked by everyone. At least if you’re you then you know the actual people who really like YOU. Be you. Be you. Boy George @BoyGeorge Vivenne Westwood - “It is not possible for a man to be elegant without a touch of femininity.” Matthew Pike @mat_buckets Oh boy! @EsquireUK UK named me in their “10 of the Best Male Influencers of 2016”! VICE UK @VICEUK Turns out wearing a hi-vis vest gets you into everything for free. Hugo Rifkind @hugorifkind The Tories make me want to join Labour. Labour makes me want to join the Lib Dems. The Lib Dems make me want to join Dignitas. What a world.
THE PARTIES AND EVENTS FROM IN AND AROUND THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY.
p NADJA SWAROVSKI, DAME NATALIE MASSENET AND CAROLINE RUSH CBE AT THE FASHION AWARDS 2016 (ZOE LOWER, BFC).
p MIDDLESBROUGH INDEPENDENT DEPARTMENT STORE PSYCHE CELEBRATED THE OFFICIAL OPENING OF ITS £500,000 E-COMMERCE EXTENSION WITH THE LORD LIEUTENANT BARRY DODD CBE. THE EXTENSION WILL HOUSE A BUYERS’ OFFICE, OFFICES FOR SUPPORT STAFF, A BOARDROOM AND ENHANCED FACILITIES FOR THE GROWING STAFF BASE.
p DESIGNER VICTORIA BECKHAM IS SET TO BE APPOINTED OBE IN THE QUEEN’S NEW YEAR’S HONOURS LIST, RECOGNISING HER SERVICES TO BOTH FASHION AND CHARITY.
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THE BOTTOMLEY LINE MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.
FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
JACKET REQUIRED TO PRESENT THE MASSIMO OSTI ARCHIVE Jacket Required has pulled off a major coup by organising an exhibition to run alongside the next show featuring hand-picked pieces from the Massimo Osti Archive, in conjunction with Proper Magazine. The archive will consist of some of the standout designs and brands from Osti’s career. There will, of course, be Stone Island, C.P. Company and Boneville, but also jackets from some of his later collections such as Left Hand, ST95, World Wide Web and Massimo Osti Productions. Jacket Required co-founder, Mark Batista, says: “I visited the Massimo Osti Archive several years ago and met Massimo’s son, Lorenzo, so knew what was there and how Lorenzo wanted to push his father’s legacy as the creator of such influential and iconic brands, especially here in the UK. In late 2016, we spoke to the guys at Proper Magazine about a jacket exhibition at Jacket Required, and they suggested borrowing some pieces from the Massimo Osti Archive. We worked closely with them, and they travelled to Bologna and chose the products to bring to the exhibition.” Osti is affectionately referred to as the ‘Godfather of Sportswear’, meaning the exhibition should be a real treat for all lovers of outerwear, and in particularly his groundbreaking work. The icing on the cake is that Lorenzo Osti is planning on coming to Jacket Required to participate in a Q&A session on the Friday afternoon (27 January), from around 3pm. The exhibition will have a separate entrance on Brick Lane.
‘MEGGINGS’? NOT ON MY WATCH! Just when an absurd amount of young men have taken up the full beard look (trust me, when a trend finally gets to Wayne Rooney it’s time to let go), and are squeezing in to skin-tight spray-on stretch jeans, I’ve now been reliably informed that sales of ‘meggings’ are on the rise (and quite literally well up the rise). Kapow Meggings currently come in 12 styles, with a new collection of 16 styles on the way. Here comes a cut of the press release sent to me for
p THE MASSIMO OSTI ARCHIVE
p KAPOW MEGGINGS
your perusal: ‘Australian brothers Jordan and Ben Barnett saw an opportunity when they noticed men becoming more adventurous with their style. Suddenly it wasn’t just festival and party goers, but celebrities like Justin Bieber and Lil Wayne, guys at the gym, yogis, fashion bloggers – men from every part of the spectrum were wearing leggings/tights; call them what you want. The Barnett brothers launched Kapow Meggings in 2015, and since then sales have doubled every three months.’ It’s got me running scared, I have to say. I thought it was just going through Richmond Park that I had to shut my eyes to such lurid attire on dayglo joggers and super-obsessed cyclists. Kapow’s designs come in ‘acid’ leopard print, Stars ‘n’ Stripes, black and white stripes and skull and cross bones. Even without a Linford Christiestyle lunchbox, you surely still have to be a big knob to strut around in such garb? Thankfully the more style savvy of us don’t go in for such loud and ludicrous looks but millions of people do. If somebody had shown me a pair of Crocs years ago, and said they were going to become a sales phenomenon, I wouldn’t have been able to contain my laughter. So now I just shrug my shoulders and get used to feeling sheer dismay.
JANUARY SALES LOSE IMPACT There’s no doubt about it, the January Sales just ain’t what they used to be; but who can be surprised about that when so many Sales now start before Christmas? Recent reports have talked of ‘deserted shopping malls’ at the beginning of the month, while internet sales continued to be impressive. Consumers didn’t even have to wait until Boxing Day in 2016, as many of the bigger retailers, and some independents too, were sending out start of Sale emails on Christmas Eve, or even before that. Obviously the rise of internet shopping is meaning the old days of people queuing up in the cold after Christmas, waiting for shops to open to grab their bargains, is looking increasingly outdated. But the mental and physical attachment of actually choosing something that’s in front of you and walking out of the shop with it can surely not be undermined. And with an estimated five million Britons struggling to pay their bills this month, after splurging over the Christmas break, how many of those impulsive internet purchases (after one too many sherries with Auntie Vera and Uncle Bill) have now been returned? —
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LAST ORDERS WITH... IVO VAN IERLAND Last year saw footwear label K-Swiss celebrate its 50th anniversary with a capsule collection of iconic styles from its back catalogue – reaffirming its success both on and off the court. Victoria Jackson speaks with K-Swiss brand director Ivo van Ierland to discover what the new season has in store. —
In 2016, K-Swiss celebrated a milestone 50 years since inception. How did you mark this moment? We started our celebratory year by launching a global collection of sneakers, made up of some of our most iconic styles from our back catalogue. The hero style being the limited edition Classic 66, made in America to the same specification as our very first shoe that was produced back in 1966. To further celebrate this milestone, we hosted parties in key cities around the world, inviting local media and customers to help us celebrate in style. What does your role as Brand Director entail? As Brand Director K-Swiss EMEA, next to sales, the business elements of marketing and product are part of the mix now. I still have the same objectives as in my previous role but now with a wider scope. Prior to this, I was sales director for the brands K-Swiss, Palladium and OTZ for the EMEA region. I was ultimately responsible for all sales activities within our own subsidiaries in the UK & Eire, Germany and Austria, the Benelux region and with our distributor partners across EMEA. My main objective I have set myself was to create the best environment for my team members so they are able to do the best possible job for our retail partners and ourselves. What’s the secret to that brand’s longevity, both on and off the court? We pride ourselves of not resting on our laurels. As a brand steeped in tennis heritage it is important that we are sympathetic to this; however, we know that today’s consumers are striving for newness. That is why we aim to create collections that are influenced by our past, fused with our brand DNA, but updated for the wants and needs of today’s consumers. In the spirit of our founders, and with lessons learned from the individually competitive nature of tennis, our goal is to inspire and outfit the next generation of entrepreneurs. Our unique knowledge of both court performance and court style allows us to combine athletic expertise, everyday comfort and our country club roots, to create a collection that no other brand can do. Do you have any collaborations in the pipeline? We will never be a brand that will churn out collaborations for the sake of it – that’s not our style. We ensure that everything we do is carefully considered and there is 100 per cent brand fit.
We have some really exciting projects lined up to launch in the UK and Ireland over the next 12 months but you will just have to wait and see. However, in December just gone, we launched a collaboration with aape (by A Bathing Ape), where together we created a camo iteration of the Classis ‘66. As you can imagine, the shoe was a sell-out success at our chosen partners, such as END. in Newcastle. What made this collaboration such a success in my eyes is that K-Swiss has gone hand in hand with street culture throughout our existence. What better way to celebrate this than working with one of the hottest streetwear brands, fusing both brands’ iconic DNA into one shoe. In terms of business within the UK, are you looking for new independent accounts or do you have a select number of retailers you work with? K-Swiss always have worked with a selective distribution policy which will remain in place but we are always searching for new quality independent partners, without forgetting our partners who supported the brand from day one. What percentage is the UK market in terms of total turnover for the brand? Currently the UK market is approximately 22 per
DOB: 01/12/1971 PLACE OF BIRTH: GOIRLE, NETHERLANDS LIVES: TILBURG, NETHERLANDS TWITTER: @KSWISS_UK WEBSITE: WWW.KSWISS.COM
cent of our total EMEA turnover. We are striving, by investing more in the UK market, to increase this towards 30-35 per cent in the coming two years. Looking towards the new season, what does a/w 17 have in store for K-Swiss? Our a/w 17 collection is the first collection under our new creative director Sean O’Shea, who has really pushed the boundaries of what you can expect from K-Swiss. In a collection called Generation K, Sean has thrown out the rulebook to create a range of sneakers that fuses together modern minimalism with heritage sport, creating a line of versatile styles for occasions that call for dressing up, down or anything in between. Also keep an eye out for our Aero Trainer and Court Frasco packs, both of which are based on brand new silhouettes.
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