WWB MAGAZINE JANUARY ISSUE 261 by fashion buyers Ltd

WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk JANUARY 2017/ ISSUE 261/ £6.95

SPOTLIGHT ON AUTUMN/WINTER 17 THE BUYERS’ GUIDE Everything you need to know about the season ahead MAN ON A MISSION How Geox’s James Portman is putting the Italian footwear brand on the UK map WIDENING THE NET Atterley’s Mike Welch on bringing e-commerce success to fashion indies

Autumn Winter Collection 2017 www.michaelalouisa.com

MODA UK - Birmingham - Stand T31 February 19 th - 21st 2017

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FROM DUSK TILL DAWN

WWB shoots the key young fashion trends

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THE LURE OF SCOOP

A preview of the show’s a/w 17 edition next month

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A FLAVOUR OF MODA

A first look at some of the key brands forming the line-up at the Birmingham show

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Expert e-commerce advice

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RETAIL FORUM

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THE LAST WORD

With Dom Goor, founder of the eponymous outerwear label

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EDITOR’S COMMENT

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TALKING POINT

Your views on the issues shaping the industry

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With Mike Welch, chairman, Atterley

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STYLE FILE

34/ A P R È S S K I The key pieces channelling this season’s hottest trend to get in-store now

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BEST PERFORMANCE

Why Italian brand Geox is going from strength to strength

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THE STYLE EDIT

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FASHION NEWS

52/ B R A N D G U I D E Everything you need to know about the brands and looks for a/w 17

FRONT COVER: DRESS – Y-Y LIN £77 0161 359 4 320 GILET – SILVIAN HEACH £53 020 34 32 6385

WINTER 2017 DÜSSELDORF CPD · HALLE 30 ·1.07 Partners in Fashion Ltd. Chris and Monika Bartscht 16 a Newman Street GB – London W1T 1PB Phone: +44 207 636 4207 Fax: +44 207 436 2243 E-Mail: michele@partnersinfashion.co.uk

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Editor Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Contributors Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Writer Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com Design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com

Editor’s comment Isabella Griffiths

Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com Sales manager Sam Chambers sam@ras-publishing.com Editorial director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com Portfolio director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie.parker@ite-exhibitions.com Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com Reprographics & printing ImageData Group 01482 652323

WWB is published 9 times per year by ITE Moda Ltd The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2017 WWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither ITE Moda Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

Let me begin by wishing you all a happy new year – may 2017 be prosperous, positive and successful! Having ticked off 2016 (I still can’t believe it, can you?), we are racing full steam ahead into 2017 and the new season. The new year is always a symbolic time for me to take stock and look ahead – beyond the cliched new year’s resolutions – and especially in industry terms January seems to be the time where we are inundated with forecasts and predictions as to what the next 12 months may bring. Of course, with the triggering of Article 50 looming and conflicting projections on the effects of this on the UK economy, no one has a crystal ball to know exactly what will happen. What is undeniable, though, is that the retail landscape in 2017 is changing fast, with a multitude of cultural, political and socio-economic factors reshaping our industry. E-commerce continues to rise and sees no slowing down, accelerated even by the growth of mobile and omni-channel shopping, where consumers expect a seamless and consistent experience between physical and digital retail channels, 24 / 7. ‘Mobile’, ‘personalisation’, ‘choice’ and ‘social’ are the buzzwords of the moment, and this is only set to continue in 2017, as the latter in particular – social shopping – grew massively last year. With the likes of Facebook and Instagram experimenting with innovative ways to get their

users to click through their channels to shop, this is definitely one consumer trend to watch, and adapt to, in the coming months. Many indies are already very active on social media, subtly promoting their products while keeping an engaging and open dialogue with their customers, and it’s only the next step up from that to make use of these as proper sales channels. Speed to market is also key, and by that I don’t mean just bringing the latest fashion trends to the shop floor. Delivering them to the customer in a flexible, convenient and timely manner will also be paramount, as more and more delivery methods, from click & collect to same day and even hourly delivery slots become the norm – not to mention increasing experiments with technologies such as drones. Even small businesses will have to rethink ways of delivering the goods to their customers and facilitating the most convenient, easy and seamless shopping packages they can offer. All in all, to me it’s clear that to remain successful in retail it will no longer be sufficient to just deliver great customer ‘service’ – the backbone of indies – but an overall satisfying and engaging customer ‘experience’, of which customer service is only one key part. I would love to know how you are adapting to the challenges and opportunities of a changing retail landscape, so do get in touch by emailing or tweeting me to share your views.

WWB is a fashion business publication produced by ITE Moda Ltd. Other titles include MWB and CWB. ITE Moda Ltd is an ITE Group PLC company

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INDIES REPORT MIXED CHRISTMAS TRADING PERFORMANCE The festive season proved challenging for retailers up and down the country.

In line with disappointing results across the wider high street, trading during the all-important Christmas period proved to be a mixed bag for indies up and down the country. A straw poll conducted by WWB reveals December got off to a slow start, with many stores reporting a flat overall performance compared with last year. “We got there in the end, but it was a sluggish start, and we only really caught up in the last week of December,” says Neil Raven, owner of Ravens of Southend. “We are slightly down on last year; we just didn’t have the footfall as in previous years, but a good end of December helped absorb that. We performed better online, but this is still fairly new to us and doesn’t make up a huge amount of our business.” Raven says menswear performed better than womenswear, and going into a/w 17 he will be cautious about budgets and try to keep a tighter rein on his spend. Over in Harrogate, Guy Hudson paints a similar picture, with menswear also overtaking the store’s womenswear business, increasing on last year by 10 per cent. However, Hudson, too, says the start of the Christmas period was difficult and only picked up towards the end of the month. “We’re about level on last year overall. We had a difficult start to the a/w season on womenswear in September because of the mild weather, so we had to catch up a lot on that in the run-up to December. “Menswear was a bit more consistent and performed better; men are not so led by the weather and other factors,

which made for a more steady performance,” he says. Over in Reigate, Surrey, Nancy Hamilton, co-owner of Gerrards Fashion, paints a different picture. “We’ve had a brilliant Christmas on womenswear; we are about 25 per cent up on last year. I think it’s because we budgeted carefully for it; we were cautious on our forward order buying and bought in a few strategic higher-ticket items for the Christmas period, like our Age of Reason scarves, which retail at about £200 and did phenomenally well. Our customers were definitely not scared to part with their money and average spend was also up. We also kicked off the season with an event, which set up a nice vibe for Christmas and followed that up with a consistent social media push, all of which helped with strong sales,” she reports. Pippa Sandison, owner of Boudoir Femme in Cambridge, meanwhile, says although better than expected, Christmas trading still fell short of last year’s figures. “Last year we had a phenomenal Christmas period, and I didn’t anticipate to match it, so all in all I’m reasonably happy,” she says. “It was very slow to get going, though, and the first day of our sale was much slower than in previous years, even though we had been very active with sending out communications and promotions. “New Year’s Eve, however, was really busy and we managed to even things out then. It’s very unpredictable out there at the moment, and I will be cautious about what I buy for a/w 17 and my budgets. We’ll just have to work a lot harder on creating a great experience,” she adds.

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NEWS IN BRIEF

PSYCHE BOLSTERS E-COMMERCE BUSINESS

JOULES CONTINUES PAN-CHANNEL GROWTH

Middlesbrough independent department store Psyche has celebrated the official opening of its £500,000 e-commerce extension, which will house a buyers’ office, offices for support staff, a boardroom and enhanced facilities for the growing staff base, in particular across the e-commerce department. Online transactions through Psyche’s stateof-the-art website account for nearly a quarter of all sales and are rapidly growing. The business has recently appointed six new members of staff and plans more recruitment in the near future. “We are very proud to be a Tees Valley business, creating jobs and investing in the local economy. The extension took six months to build and cost £500,000; it’s the future of Psyche,” says owner Steve Cochrane. “With the extension we can grow the company and recruit more staff along with improving our facilities for existing staff.”

British lifestyle brand Joules has released its latest trading update covering the 26-week period to 27 November 2016. Group revenue for the period increased by 16.2 per cent to £81.4m, reflecting the brand’s increasing footprint, growing customer base, and the strong performance of both new and core ranges across product categories. Retail revenue increased by 15.8 per cent to £56.7m, driven by good growth across stores and e-commerce. Joules has continued to expand its retail presence in line with its plans, with the opening of a net 10 new stores during the period. Wholesale revenue increased by 17.2 per cent to £24.5m as anticipated, given the previously reported growth in the a/w 16 wholesale orderbook across all markets. The brand has continued to develop in international markets, including expanded product ranges within key US wholesale accounts, as well as a new kidswear partnership with a leading US department store.

NORD HOLDING ACQUIRES OLSEN German investment company Nord Holding has acquired womenswear brand Olsen from its owner, Veldhoeven Group, for an undisclosed sum. The sale, which came into effect on 22 December, follows a significant turnaround in Olsen’s market performance since its acquisition by the Dutch group in 2013. For 2016 Olsen is forecasting a net turnover of about ¤70 million, constituting growth of 6 per cent on the previous year. 85 per cent of this turnover was generated by its core markets: Canada, Germany, Poland and the UK. Olsen will continue to be headed by Michael Simon, who assumes the position of CEO, having been general manager from 2013 to 2015 and largely credited with the turnaround of the brand.

ASIA APPAREL EXPO STRENGTHENS POSITION IN MARKET The sixth edition of Asia Apparel Expo will see the show continue to strengthen its position as one of the leading apparel sourcing trade fairs in the world. Taking place at the Messe Berlin, Germany from 14-16 February 2017, the biannual show attracts over 2,000 European companies looking for new Asian apparel manufacturers and suppliers. This season will see an increase in exhibitors, with over 300 manufacturers from Hong Kong, China, Bangladesh, India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka and Taiwan. Registration for trade professionals to attend is now open. Visit www.asiaapparelexpo.com for more information. WOLF & WHISTLE LAUNCHES CURVE COLLECTION Following the success of its exclusive Simply Be X Wolf & Whistle range, fashion brand Wolf & Whistle has launched a limited edition Curve collection. The range will launch at the end of January on the brand’s website, www.wolfandwhistle.co.uk and will be available in sizes 18 to 26. Vintage floral wallpaper-inspired prints are featured on romantic dresses, drop hem skirts and camisoles, with cradle pink, candlelight peach and pale purple being the dominant colours. NEW ONLINE MARKETPLACE LAUNCHES A new online marketplace is targeting independent retailers and traders across multiple product categories, including fashion, in a bid to rival Amazon. OnBuy.com is on track to offer more than 2.4m product lines across categories such as electronics, toys, clothing, jewellery and furniture. The site takes no selling fees and works on a subscription model whereby sellers pay a monthly fee of £49 plus VAT, with major retailers confirmed including World of Books, the largest Amazon bookseller in the UK.

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NEWS IN BRIEF OLIVIA BURTON OPEN TOPSHOP CONCESSION Independent British watch brand Olivia Burton has opened its first own-brand concession in Topshop’s flagship Oxford Circus store today. The concession will stock Olivia Burton’s trend-setting watch collection and will launch new ranges every two months. The new concession space will also offer a complimentary personalisation service with hand embossing onto selected watch leather straps.

MODA RETURNS WITH BOLSTERED PRODUCT SECTORS The UK’s most comprehensive fashion event, Moda, has confirmed a strong line-up across each of its five product sectors. The trade show will launch the a/w 17 season at the NEC, Birmingham, with a bolstered exhibitor portfolio and the development of each of its specific platforms targeting niche departments within the apparel trade. Having seen a successful launch in summer, Active will make a welcome return to Moda Lingerie & Swimwear. Targeting the contemporary active and wellness consumer, the area will present collections by Björn Borg, Acai Activewear and Leg Code, as well as sports diffusion lines such as Anita Active and Freya Active. Elsewhere in the exhibition, Outdoor Lifestyle will return for its third season with a comprehensive line-up that transcends the menswear, womenswear and footwear sectors. Geox, Aigle, Didriksons, Alan Paine, Sebago, Grisport, Chatham, Orca Bay, Jacaru, Redpoint, Lumberjack and Solovair are just some of the brands confirmed to return to the area for a/w 17. In addition, Moda Woman bolsters its presence with a host of new signings across the entire spectrum of the trade. Moda White confirms its position as the go-to area for contemporary and directional womenswear labels, with a line-up which includes new arrivals Slow Clothes, French Dressing Jeans, Mama B, Silvian Heach, Lavand, Freequent, Desigual, Salsa, Access and Relish. Making a welcome return, meanwhile, are D.E.C.K, Snoxell-Gwyther, Suzy D, Paola Collection, Latte, Sahara, Brodie Cashmere, Badoo, L’Argentina, James Lakeland, Nü Denmark, Elle Sport, Eva Tralala and Circle of Trust.

SILVER SURFERS EMBRACE ONLINE CHRISTMAS SHOPPING New research shows that British seniors have embraced online shopping more than any other European country and are now among the most tech-savvy consumers in the world, with 78 per cent of internet users over 65 currently shopping online, significantly boosting the Christmas shopping period last year. The report, which was conducted by global retail property experts Colliers International, also demonstrates that the largest European e-commerce market is found in the UK, with online sales currently running at around £130bn annually. However, the research shows that while the British have embraced online retailing, the way people purchase and pay for their goods around the world remains very diverse. Italians are among the least tech-savvy shoppers in Western Europe, with just 26 per cent purchasing online.

SPENDING SPLURGE SEES HIGH STREET HIT SIX YEAR HIGH The UK’s high street had its best November in six years despite Black Friday delivering muted sales for stores, figures released by BDO reveal. November’s year-on-year growth of 1.7 per cent recorded by BDO’s High Street Sales Tracker (HSST) was also the best overall monthly growth in 14 months. The fashion sector saw growth for the first time since January, reporting like-for-like growth of 1.5 per cent in November. Sales of homewares grew for the fifth month in succession, recording a double-digit increase of 11.7 per cent on an already positive base from 2015. ROLAND MOURET RETURNS TO LFW Roland Mouret is set to return to London Fashion Week to mark his 20th anniversary as a designer. Having shown in Paris for the past 10 years, Mouret returns to London where he first started as a designer and launched his eponymous brand. The a/w 17 showcase in February will kick off a year-long celebration marking the designer’s journey and career over the last two decades. Roland Mouret operates a wholesale network spanning over 38 countries and around 200 doors worldwide. Roland Mouret’s website relaunched in 2014, and having experienced triple digit percentage growth over the last two years, it is expected to become the brand’s largest retail channel by the end of 2017.

WOMAN & ACCESSORIES 19-21 FEBRUARY 2017

NEC Birmingham

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NEWS IN BRIEF

HOUSE OF FRASER OPENS FIRST SHOP IN CHINA

DENHAM ANNOUNCES GLOBAL GROWTH PLANS

UK department store group House of Fraser has opened its first store in China, located in Nanjing. The debut store is located in Sanpower Plaza, in the heart of Nanjing’s Xinjiekou. Najing is the capital of the Jiangsu province in Eastern China and has a total population of 7.2 million, as well as being a key centre for tourism, with Xinijekou receiving around 500,000 visitors per day. House of Fraser Nanjing is set to provide customers with over 300 brands to shop from, including Barbour, Ted Baker, Dyson, Paul & Joe, Nike, Day Birger et Mikkelsen and Dior. The opening of the store also marks the introduction of a number of new brands to the Chinese market, which are partnering with House of Fraser due to its premium offer and location. These include Radley, Cambridge Satchel Company, Biba Alexandre of England, Peter Werth, D.A.T.E. and Lyle & Scott. The store spans six floors, trading on over 435,000 sq ft of retail space.

Dutch denim label Denham has announced the launch of a new phase in its global growth strategy, beginning with the expansion of its executive board early this year. This includes the appointment of Jason Denham as chief creative officer, Ludo Onnink as chief executive officer and Fred Gehring as non-executive chairman. The brand’s key focus for 2017 is the German market, with the recent appointment of Marco Frenzer as sales director for Germany. Following the success of the brand in Japan, meanwhile, Denham is also looking to strengthen its joint venture with Look Inc Group with a roll out of further new store locations, in addition to its current portfolio of 22 existing shops. “Jason and his team have built a strong, aspirational and pure brand that is about quality and incredible attention to detail,” says Gehring. “Our vision for Denham is to continue to develop its global success, leveraging the significant momentum it has seen already in the Netherlands and Japan.”

ENCOURAGING OUTLOOK FOR UK TEXTILE MANUFACTURERS

Make It British founder Kate Hills

A survey carried out by Make it British shows that while the fashion manufacturing industry in the UK faces challenges in the current economic climate, business is booming for many. Forty-five per cent of UK textile manufacturers reported “business is better than last year”, with many enjoying increases in production of 25-50 per cent compared with 2015. Of the 95 UK textile manufacturers taking part in the survey, 30 per cent said they were receiving more enquiries now than prior to the EU referendum, but that they were being hit by rising costs for raw materials, many of which are imported from the EU. Around half (47 per cent) said that finding skilled staff was the biggest barrier to further growth, while 39 per cent blamed lack of support from Government.

VERSACE LAUNCHES NEW E-COMMERCE DESTINATION Luxury brand Versace has launched a new and improved version of its e-commerce and content destination, Versace.com. With enhanced functionality and navigation, Versace. com is now more mobile-friendly and intuitive, offering the visitor a 360° brand experience. The new Versace.com is also the home to The World of Versace, which allows visitors to browse through collections and access exclusive backstage images and dynamic videos, focusing on all aspects of the Versace lifestyle, from fine jewellery, to perfumes, watches, homeware and Palazzo Versace hotels. E-commerce operates in 22 European countries and the United States. SCOTCH & SODA ROLLS OUT SHOP-IN-SHOP CONCEPT Following the success and growth of its denim label, Amsterdams Blauw, Scotch & Soda is set to launch a series of shopin-shop concepts across Europe, including the UK. The new bespoke Amsterdams Blauw shop-in-shop design will house seasonal denim collections, as well as creating branded display space for NOS fits and washes. The new offering comprises three furniture fixtures which can be customised to fit every retail environment. The first phase of the shop-in-shop units will be rolled out across the Netherlands, Germany, Italy, France and the UK. ANIMAL EXPANDS WITH NEW BRISTOL STORE UK surf and lifestyle brand Animal has opened a new store in Bristol’s Cabot Circus Shopping Centre. Located on the ground floor, the 2,000 sq ft store is home to the latest Animal collections, featuring lifestyle wear and accessories with a strong fashion edge. Launched in 1987, Animal has taken inspiration from its board sports heritage to become a leading lifestyle brand.

S A AT C H I G A L L E R Y, L O N D O N

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R E G I S T E R F O R Y O U R T I C K E T AT S C O O P - I N T E R N AT I O N A L . C O M

Credit: Mantero 1902

T H E F LO R A L E CO L L EC T I O N Florale is Triumphâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new collection of luxurious, decorative and figure-flattering everyday lingerie for the sophisticated, mature woman. Florale boasts a new, innovative 4-section wired cup for enhanced support and comfort, and the designs are inspired by magnificent florals - the Peony, the Iris, the Dahlia and the Wild Rose. Bras and panties are expertly crafted and feature floral stretch laces, exquisite embroideries and premium detailing. For a consumer who knows her mind and body, Florale offers a new standard of style, support and classic elegance.

F I N D T H E O N E T H AT M A K E S Y O U F E E L E L E G A N T TRIUMPH.COM

F R I E D A & F R E D D I E S / A D V E R T O R I A L / 17 wwb-online.co.uk

Hip, kitsch, quirky... just some of the words used to describe this urban, contemporary chic lifestyle brand that is entering the UK and Ireland market for a/w 2017. Frieda & Freddies New York have joined forces with F.O.S Fashion Marketing after identifying F.O.S as the perfect partner to portray the image and the ethos of the brand as well as drive sales in what is a brand new market for them. Chris Foster-Orr, owner of F.O.S tells WWB: “We have been talking to Frieda & Freddies for the best part of 18 months, and we were flattered that they wanted to wait for us to represent them in the UK and Ireland. With our moving to bigger premises in the King’s Road just recently it was the obvious time for us to join forces with them.” He continues: “The brand is fresh, outerwear led and topsorientated. It is like nothing out there and enjoys an individuality that appeals to the mainstream and ‘bridge’ market sectors and to the 35+ consumer. It is an incredibly well priced collection for ‘real’ women and fits in perfectly with the core vision we have at F.O.S. I’m very excited about Frieda & Freddies and so should our retailers be as well. It is a breath of fresh air.” The back story of Frieda & Freddies is a fascinating one. Originating from the east coast of the USA in the 1970s, Frieda & Freddies was the name of two infamous discotheques in Miami and New York, with the label being personified by two little Chihuahuas called Frieda & Freddie. The TV series Miami Vice was set in the two clubs; simultaneously a wild, screaming and colourful clothing collection was based around the clubbing scene featuring Hawaiian shirts, T-shirts and sweatshirts. Quickly the Frieda & Freddies collection advanced into a ‘must have’ brand relying largely on funky disco prints and beach optics. Not only did countless Hollywood stars, such as Jackie O, Steve McQueen and Paul Newman wear Frieda & Freddies (it used to be menswear too back in the day), but the cast of Miami Vice were all clothed in Frieda’s couture. As a result, Frieda & Freddies became an absolute cult brand in the 80s, far beyond the cities of Miami and New York. Nevertheless the decline of the discotheque era in the 90s also affected the ‘hype’ around Frieda & Freddies. This changed drastically when in 2005 Lebek and Friends restarted Frieda & Freddies and developed a collection for Europe. To date it is sold in Belgium, Holland, Austria, Switzerland, Spain and Scandinavia and soon the UK and Ireland. What a story, what a heritage... what a brand. Go see! Selling dates: 23 January to 3 March Contact details: Chris Foster-Orr/Cicely Brown F.O.S Fashion Marketing, 120 King’s Rd, London SW3 4TR Tel: 020 7584 4159 E: info@fosfashion.co.uk Nearest Tube: Sloane Square

ALL GODSKE BRANDS SHOWING AT THE FOLLOWING VENUES THE GALLERY DUSSELDORF Fashion House 2 – 2nd Floor Room 2C- 202 Wed 25 Jan - Mon 30 Jan 2017 CIFF COPENHAGEN Bella Centre – B3 – 241 Wed 1 Feb - Sun 5 Feb 2017 A.I.S – INDX WOMENSWEAR Solihull Wed 8 Feb - Fri 10 Feb 2017 PURE EXHIBITION Olympia – Stand C123 & C131 Sun 12 Feb - Tues 14 Feb 2017 LONDON SHOWROOM also open Sat 11 Feb and Sun 12 Feb 2017 WEEKEND OF PURE MODA UK NEC Birmingham Hall 20 – Stand U41 & U51 Sun 19 Feb to Tues 21 Feb 2017 Dublin Showroom Weekend Sun 26 Feb to Tues 28 Feb 2017

AUTUMN/WINTER 2017 SIZE RANGE: 8-30

LONDON SHOWROOM: Godske Group UK. Showroom: 65 Margaret Street, London W1W 8SP. Tel: 0207 636 3063 Fax: 0207 636 3863 Email: pug@godske.com DUBLINâ&#x20AC;&#x2C6;SHOWROOM: Godske Group Ireland, Unit 5, Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24. Tel: 00353 1 4295042 Fax: 00353 1 4295043

THE TRIACTION COLLECTION Triaction is high-performance, bounce control tested, stylish sportswear you can take from office to gym to socialising with friends. It is designed using Triumphâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best-selling fits to support active women of every shape and give them the freedom to train how and when they want to. The innovative AW17 Collection features the Dynamic LITE Cardio series and the Magic Motion Studio series with on trend, seasonal colours and styles, which are lightweight, supportive, and comfortable, and feature superior bounce control.

F I N D T H E O N E T H AT M O V E S Y O U TRIUMPH.COM

FOOTWEAR 19-21 FEBRUARY 2017

NEC Birmingham

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Talking Point

Your views on the issues shaping the industry Why seasons don’t matter in occasionwear

TRACIE BEARDSLEY is co-owner of multiaward winning independent Fab Frocks in Westbourne, Bournemouth. It may have been ‘the season to be jolly’ but I am pleased to see the back of Christmas in our boutique and crack on with the new year. The 2017 collections of mother of the bride outfits and prom dresses are flooding in. The back of the shop is more like a sauna than a changing room with the clothes steamer working overtime to

A fashion calendar that delivers

MICHAEL SHALDERS is the co-owner of award-winning Love Brands fashion distribution agency, based in Wapping, London. As an industry, there’s certainly been a movement away from the traditional fashion calendar. In terms of womenswear, we have yet to notice a trend to buy autumn/winter product only when, for example, it’s cold and it’s wet. In contrast to men, who tend to be somewhat more reactive in their shopping, women will often buy an item solely because they like it and in the knowledge,

prepare hundreds of dresses for the shop floor. Believe me, speed is of the essence. I have a long list of customers to phone who have been champing at the bit since the autumn to see the new arrivals for 2017. Unlike many other retailers, the occasionwear market is proving less and less seasonal, with little opportunity for transitional outfits. The reason? A shift in the wedding market has affected when people shop for their outfits. Not many weddings take place in draughty churches any more so the need for heavier weight fabrics is negated. Also, the fact that weddings take place all year round (though markedly less in the autumn and winter) and in so many different and amazing venues, means we can be selling summer dresses for weddings abroad in the depths of winter. Even on Christmas Eve, with a shop full of party dresses, we were selling mother of the bride outfits for weddings this June and prom dresses for July. The time of year to buy the outfit is irrelevant to the customer and if you are a special occasion boutique, you need choice for spring, summer, autumn and winter events all year round. Fortunately, occasionwear suppliers are starting to understand the need for looks that will

work for occasions 365 days of the year. They are also becoming more aware of the need to get new collections out early. Some of our 2017 collections started to arrive as early as September in some cases. It can be a cashflow headache but it does help us to capture sales from those customers keen to buy early. Labels like Condici have it right with a spring/summer collection that is delivered as early as October the year before and then a high summer top up which we will receive in April of this year. There is no autumn collection. I really believe this is the way other suppliers should go to meet the needs of our customers. No doubt, like other occasion wear shops, we are reducing our budgets for autumn buying and focusing more on buying from the spring/summer collections with looks and colours that will carry us through the whole year. Suppliers will need to adjust to this trend and the changes in the autumn when there are a lot fewer weddings and events taking place. So, it is now head down and all hands to the clothes hangers for us. January to June is our key trading period and we need to maximise all those opportunities to sell.

that, even after a period of time in the wardrobe, they will wear and enjoy it. A slightly different way of looking at the ‘seasonal calendar issue’ is to give more consideration to delivery times. The brands that we work with are increasingly mindful to deliver the right product at the right time; customers really appreciate this. The attitude seems to be: ‘rather than try to produce short order product, let’s produce smaller order collections and deliver them more regularly’. So they won’t be delivering knitwear in July or coats in August. Consequently, something we’ve noticed with many of our best performing brands is that the window for transitional product now covers a longer period. This means that the ‘shoulder season’ (i.e. June/July/August) has now been extended. From a planning point of view, these subtle shifts don’t impact our strategy too much at all. Fortunately, the majority of brands we work with are already savvy about what they deliver and when they deliver it. But in some respects, we find that, as distributors, we’re delivering more often, which means that we are selling more often. For instance, instead of having one big collection

delivered at the start of the season, which was the norm 20 years ago, retailers are now buying three collections a season, with each collection being delivered over two months. Our brands are predominantly ‘forward order’ brands and, as we upscale our portfolio, this share is likely to increase. Our business is weighted in favour of forward order; about 85 per cent of our sales. We find that the more premium the brand, the less stock they carry and thus the less in-season business they carry out. Interestingly, these brands also tend to open their order books earlier than low-mid market businesses. Many will open their a/w books in November. This helps everything in the supply chain and marketing and means that, consequently, there is less of a pinch point at ‘peak times’. In the case that a brand insists on an unsuitable delivery time, we can hold the stock for the retailer until they need it. With 30 years’ experience in this industry, I feel that if brands continue to develop the right product to be delivered to the retailer at the right time, they can negate the necessity for in season business, other than for replenishment or to react to a trend.

A U T U M N W I N T E R 2017 C O L L E C T I O N TO M A K E A N A P P O I N T M E N T AT A S H O W R O O M N E A R YO U P L E A S E C O N TA C T: E : TRADE@JOULES.COM

T: +44 (0) 1858 435261

PHIL DAY LTD INVITES YOU TO THE PRESENTATION OF THE ALEMBIKA COLLECTION FOR AUTUMN / WINTER 2017

By appointment only, showing at: Gilmoora House, 57-61 Mortimer Street, London W1W 8HS Monday 6th February – Friday 24th February. We are also open all through Pure weekend from Saturday 11th February – Tuesday 14th February. Please contact Michelle for an appointment Tel: 07968-582690 Email: michelle@philday.net Phil Day Ltd, P.O.BOX 22, Oldham, OL3 6YW Agent Ireland: Trevor Lavery Contact: Jo-Anne McShane JV Collections Tel : 07918-690597 Email: jvcollections@btconnect.com Showing February – March in Belfast & Dublin showrooms

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The launch last September of Atterley, an online network of the best independent boutiques, is the brainchild of Blackcircles.com founder and CEO Mike Welch. He took Blackcircles from a start-up to the UK’s fastest-growing tyre retailer, before selling to Michelin in 2015. Tom Bottomley hears his plans to do the same with women’s fashion. Tom Bottomley: What was the idea behind Blackcircles? Mike Welch: It’s an online retailer representing independent garages and family businesses. The whole premise was, the little guys were getting beaten up by the big chains like Kwik Fit and ATS. The concept was to bring them together under one umbrella and focus on real customer service, which they are so good at. It’s effectively a sub-franchise through one network and through one brand acting as a ‘big brother’. There’s some 3,000 independent garages in the network. These market approaches are quite common now, but they weren’t then. TB: So is it the same premise you are now taking in to the fashion arena with Atterley? MW: Well, usually in a marketplace there’s a couple of really big guys and there’s a few big incumbents who are making margins difficult for people. So, the question is, how do you provide a platform for the little guys to compete. Fundamentally the service that they can offer is at least as good, but usually a lot better than what you can get from the chains. That’s what we are now bringing to the women’s fashion market with Atterley. The principles are similar in most markets, though the industries can be very different.

MIKE WELCH, OBE, ATTERLEY CHAIRMAN AND FOUNDER

TB: So what prompted your move in to fashion? MW: A good friend of mine, Sarah Murray, runs a boutique in Edinburgh called Jane Davidson. I think the business has been in the family for about 40 years. She and I had a chat years ago, when she had said that this whole online thing was really difficult for her. She asked how I would make it work. By the very nature of having a boutique, the buying is quite narrow in terms of stock, so the economies of scale don’t exist. But that’s the whole point. It’s a boutique, they are selling limited pieces, and that makes what they sell desirable and exclusive. But it’s difficult to supply that kind of theatre online. What was clear some 10 years ago, when I was building up the Blackcircles business, was that, when it comes to fashion, as with other industries, online is really more positioned for volume. The more ranges and more product you have, the more likely you are to build up and convert the traffic. Somebody might search for a brand online, but then the various permeations of size, product model, colour and all that mean you could lose 99 per cent of the traffic that comes to your site

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because you’re a boutique and you’ve only got a certain size in a certain colour. It’s about taking that weakness, and turning it in to a strength, by putting the best independents under one umbrella online. TB: Didn’t Atterley already exist as a business previously? MW: Yes it did. It was a couple of friends of mine behind it, and when I sold Blackcircles I was looking at other markets. They were in need of some help. They were doing their own brand, but previously stocked brands and had tried to do an ASOS for a more mature market. Moving it in to Atterley own brand, in order to make greater margins, was when they hit problems. They overspent and exhausted the proposition, so shareholders ended up not funding it anymore and it lost its way. They decided to wind up the operation, and that’s when I stepped in. In terms of the Atterley brand, they had spent so much money speaking to their customers. They also had happy customers from before they tried to make the transition from selling brands to own brand. So, I bought the brand and the assets with a view to restructuring the business model to this consolidated network of independents. There’s was no ‘nasties’ left behind in the previous business, all creditors had been paid and it was a clean wind up, and now a fresh start. TB: How is what you do different to Farfetch? MW: Farfetch is obviously quite an impressive story. Looking at their business, at least we knew we were on the right track, because we didn’t have any inspiration to do it from Farfetch, we had our own principles. What makes Atterley work, and what will make Atterley prosper, is that it is 100 per cent about the boutiques. It’s not about engaging the brand through the boutiques. It’s about how we consolidate the small ranges that the boutiques carry to effectively make much bigger ranges. It’s about creating depth, and strength in depth of ranges of different products so that we can then build a customer base. It’s creating one big entity from multiple small entities in terms of stock holding. I looked at the amount of boutiques that they work with, around 300, and I see our numbers being more into the many thousands. We have a strategy to bring in around 3,500 boutiques internationally. We are already opening up

distribution in Italy. It’s about the right people, based in the right locations. TB: How has that worked so far in terms of signing up UK boutiques? MW: In the early phase in the UK it has worked really well. We’ve got coming on for 100 boutiques signed up already. We’ve taken on the likes of The Dressing Room, The Mercantile London, Jules B, Donna Ida, Question Air, Stanwells, Biscuit, Marianna and many others, including Jane Davidson of course. Sarah Murray is a shareholder. TB: What level of the market are you really targeting? MW: We transcend the market a bit more than others, and our addressable market will be a lot bigger. We offer some brands more in the middle price point, but we also offer brands – through our boutiques – who are perhaps more unique, such as Scandinavian brands that are slightly cheaper in price but are still high quality products. We do obviously touch on the more luxury offers as well through some of our designer boutiques. But you’ll get as much of the Diane von Furstenberg type products and prices as you will the super high-end stuff. There’s also a bit more of that slightly lower-end bridge product. TB: What’s the real appeal to a boutique to come on board with Atterley? MW: We already ship to 29 different countries. It’s small volumes at the moment, but we are quadrupling week on week. We know we can sell product, we know we can ship it internationally and we know we can be competitive. We also know we can convert more product the more volume we get. We’re not putting in place big hurdles for boutiques to come on board. We’re not insisting that products have to be sent in to be photographed in a special way. We’re just giving our boutiques a showcase and a platform for them to show what they do best. In terms of the imagery they put up, obviously there are certain guidelines, but we’re not doing anything that adds any more cost. And our rates are very competitive. Our charge rate in terms of fees is way lower than anybody else, because we’re not factoring in such a high cost base. We charge 10 per cent of sales.

160 YEARS IN THE MAKING B E A PA R T O F T H E M O S T E XC LU S I V E K N I T W E A R B R A N D F O R G E N E R AT I O N S A L I M I T E D N U M B E R O F R E TA I L L I S T I N G S A V A I L A B L E . T O E N Q U I R E A B O U T B E C O M I N G A N E X C L U S I V E S T O C K I S T, C A L L + 4 4 ( 0 ) 1 4 8 4 8 4 8 4 3 4 O R E M A I L I N F O R M AT I O N @ S L A I T H. C O. U K

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A new way

forward.....

Marciano, the first brand extension from Los Angeles super brand GUESS has had an extensive makeover as it treads a new path in the UK and Ireland for a/w 17 with top commercial agents F.O.S Fashion Marketing. Losing none of its heritage as a contemporary runway-inspired collection, designed for the 30+ fashion forward woman, Marciano Los Angeles will offer more everyday fashion and more commercial styling capturing the essence and flavour of Los Angeles but at a significantly more everyday price. This will work alongside its renowned sophisticated and glamorous occasion wear offering. Targeting a more commercial retail audience, Marciano Los Angeles is in place to meet the demands of modern retailing whereby the end consumer demands a look straight off the runway but not necessarily with the designer price tag. UK and Ireland will be an important market for the development of this project in Europe.

Selling dates: 23 January â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 3 March Contact details: Chris Foster-Orr/Aimee Brown F.O.S Fashion Marketing, 120 Kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Rd, London SW3 4TR Tel: 020 7584 4159 E: info@fosfashion.co.uk Nearest Tube: Sloane Square

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Style File

The hottest brands not to miss this month q DEVOTED TO DENIM Kings of Indigo brings together the best of both worlds in denim; the minimalistic beauty of pure Japanese denim and the tough characteristics of classic American blue jeans. Committed to finding sustainable alternatives for producing quality denim, the brand uses recycled and organic cotton and also works with alternative washing and finishing methods.

u SCANDI SNEAKERS Danish sneaker brand Woden’s DNA is based on functionality, anatomy and minimalism, using as many natural materials as possible. Featuring high quality leather and cork soles, outsoles and lasts are carefully designed to soothe the needs of urban feet. The brand will be launching its cool and stylish collection at next month’s a/w 17 edition of Scoop.

Conceived by Helen Clement, an ex-interiors and fashion buyer with an enviable collection of unique jewellery from around the world, Decadorn is the ultimate destination for magpies who want that unique ‘wow piece’. The original designs feature an array of beautiful crystals sourced mainly from Brazil and Uruguay. t IN BLOOM Inspired by the cynical mood of Nirvana’s song In Bloom, 5 Preview’s a/w 17 collection creates a feminine yet playful vintage look, filled with 70s shapes and fabrics. Wide flowy trousers worn with short pilot jackets, faux fur, plain and patchworked outerwear, gold laminé, graphic polkadots, dreamy watercolour all-over prints and jacquards form a collection perfect for layering, mixing and matching looks.

t FROM DUSK TILL DAWN Night and loungewear brand Cyberjammies is known for its fashion-led pyjamas, and its latest ‘Josie’ collection, a pyjama set in a pretty jewel-like geometric print and fresh China blues, is set to be an a/w 17 style hit. See more from the brand at February’s Moda Lingerie & Swimwear.

C A N A D A

CELEBRATING 40 YEARS OF ELEGANACE FALL - WINTER 2017 SHOWING: Monday 23rd January Friday 17th February 2017 Apt Collections Ltd - Nigel and Claudia Hughes T: 00 44 207 580 3202 E: nigel@aptcollections.ltd.uk / claudia@aptcollections.ltd.uk

WINTER STYLES 2017

04 – 06 MAR SUMMER STYLES 2017

02 – 04 SEPT

OFFENBACH

WWW.ILM-OFFENBACH.DE FOLLOW US ON

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A winning formula High sell-throughs and above average stock turnover are just two of the many reasons why German knitwear brand Rabe continues to be the first choice of fashion independents up and down the country, with its modern and contemporary handwriting and affordable price points proving an unbeatable combination. When it comes to knitwear, German brand Rabe continues to lead the market and has proven season after season to be a reliable retail partner for its ever-expanding UK stockist base. Having once again performed exceedingly well at point of sale, with strong sell-through results for autumn/winter 16, the brand is set to build on this success for a/w 17. Targeting the elegant, stylish woman who is young at heart, likes fashion but also appreciates quality and a good fit, Rabe’s collections are designed with love, care and attention to detail. The brand’s classic contemporary styling incorporates key seasonal colours and trends, and a commitment to the highest quality while also remaining affordable is at the core of the brand philosophy. Rabe believes that its products should be enjoyed and worn every day, which is why each style is extremely wearable, offering a perfect fit time after time. A high degree of innovation goes into each design, with the brand using its own patented and developed premium yarns that are not only of super soft quality, but are also comfortable and breathable, as well as allergy tested to be skin friendly and suitable for even the most sensitive skins, always leaving the wearer with a feeling of wellness. With an unbeatable price-quality ratio and irresistible, commercial designs, Rabe continues to go from strength to strength, and has grown considerably not only in the UK, but also internationally. The brand prides itself on its first-class deliveries and great customer service, which puts personal relationships at the forefront, whether that’s responding to the needs of individual export markets, or indeed its customers with tailor-made packages. This is rounded off by a competent after sales service, in-season repeats and stock back-ups, as well as high sellthroughs and above average stock turnover. For a/w 17 the brand is set to deliver another spectacular collection of modern and commercial designs which will undoubtedly accelerate Rabe’s huge commercial success further still.

Showing Dates: Collection 1: 9 January – 3 February 2017 Collection 2: 30 January – 3 March 2017 Partners in Fashion 16a Newman Street London W1T 1PB Email: sales@partnersinfashion.co.uk www.partnersinfashion.com

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Après ski Whether hitting the slopes or just there for the scenery, it’s hard not to channel mountain style with an abundance of cosy knits, quilted coats and stylish accessories. WWB selects the products available for in-store delivery now. 04/

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1/ LINDA FARROW price on request 020 7713 1105 • 2/ MARC CAIN price on request 0049 747 1709 • 3/ THE EDGE £4 0330 008 1555 4/ PARKA LONDON £66 020 7424 6889 • 5/ STANCE £5.65 01243 670 999 • 6/ ROXY £12 020 7392 4020 7/ SCOTCH & SODA £38 020 3137 3901 • 8/ LOST INK £33.99 020 3728 7766 Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

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Best performance Italian lifestyle brand Geox recently released impressive growth figures, with the UK in particular proving one of its strongest export markets. With a core offer of footwear alongside high spec outerwear, the brand continues to expand, and 2017 is set to be an even bigger year for the label. Isabella Griffiths caught up with UK country manager James Portman to find out more. When James Portman took on the job as UK country manager for Italian brand Geox some 18 months or so ago, his main task – or challenge, as some might say – was very clear: to put Geox on the UK map and position the footwear label alongside other leading brands. Portman was no stranger to the footwear sector, having previously worked as global head of footwear and then main board director for footwear and accessories at Lyle & Scott, and before that as head of European operations at Clarks. “I was very aware of Geox before I joined the company, and I had always wondered why they weren’t bigger in the UK, as they are massive in other markets. I felt that it was a brand that should be more prominent at point of sale, so this was what I set out to do,” he says. “Funnily enough, a lot of people in the UK saw Geox mainly as a kids’ footwear brand, and until I joined, this was the main UK business. I would say that on the kidswear side, we are probably in over 90 per cent of the stores we should be and want to be in; that’s not the case on the adult ranges, so we’ve strengthened our sales team and are actively driving the growth of this sector,” he adds. This strategy seems to be working, as Geox’ latest financial

figures show impressive growth, with the UK specifically having achieved a 20 per cent increase on the wholesale side over the last two seasons – the group’s wholesale sales overall saw 11.3 per cent growth – making it one of Geox’s top export markets alongside China and Russia. According to Portman, it’s the product itself that is accelerating this growth, with Geox’s USP based around its unique breathable and waterproof membranes and high performance features, with over 60 different patents registered in Italy and internationally to give Geox its high-tech characteristics. As Portman explains: “I’m a big believer that the product is the main driver of growth. We are fashionable, not high fashion, we never will be or aspire to be, but it is of course important to combine the technical aspect of the footwear with fashion elements that are relevant to the consumer,” he says. “Five or six years ago, Geox felt very European, sometimes just missing the mark. But we are more involved in the product selection and product development now, and parts of the range are specifically developed for the UK.” He adds: “On the adult side, we are probably more known for our sneakers. The current athleisure trend is great for us, and all

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“ I DON’T THINK WE HAVE EXHAUSTED ALL POTENTIAL POINTS OF SALE YET, BUT WE ARE NOT OPENING ACCOUNTS AGGRESSIVELY EITHER. WE HAVE TO BE IN THE RIGHT STORES AND WITH THE RIGHT CUSTOMERS, OTHERWISE IT WON’T WORK. IT’S ABOUT CONSIDERED, ORGANIC GROWTH.”

indicators point to the fact that this trend is not going away any time soon. That plays to our heritage; we have huge collections, and over 50 per cent of the range is currently sneakers, so our athleisure sales are really strong.” Though Geox is essentially a footwear brand, the range has been expanded to include an apparel division, with selected outerwear styles complementing the footwear. While distribution of this is still relatively new, in the UK apparel already amounts to 14 per cent of overall sales, not least thanks to the appointment of UK agency Partners in Fashion, who have been charged with representing Geox’s clothing. “Monika and Chris Bartscht [owners of Partners in Fashion] are great brand ambassadors for us; they have been wearing Geox for many years before we even worked with them, and really believe in the product. They also have a central London showroom, which was important to us, and a large network of active retailers with national coverage. It’s an ideal partnership,” says Portman. The apparel collection focuses on outerwear styles that offer the same breathable and waterproof membranes and qualities as the footwear, synchronising well with the brand’s core DNA. “The aim for the apparel range is to be around 20 per cent of the Geox business. This is achievable, as the range now purely focuses on outerwear styles and is doing well. Geox tried the total look before and had a broader ready-to-wear offer, but it didn’t work. The outerwear, however, is a great extension of the Geox brand and is very cohesive with the technical features of the shoes; that’s why it’s successful,” Portman explains. While the footwear collections have traditionally been sold through specialist stores, and the apparel range through Geox’s own stores and fashion boutiques, there is an increased and intentional crossover between the two, with a growing number of fashion indies also stocking selected Geox footwear styles, and footwear specialists dabbing in the apparel. It’s a welcome synergy, and one of the side effects of working with Partners in Fashion.

“Placing footwear in fashion stores and the outerwear in footwear works well for us, as it gives us context, and this is something we’re looking to facilitate more going forward. Moda, where we show again this season, works well for us in this respect, as we can showcase the shoes alongside the apparel and show the whole scale of Geox’s lifestyle offer,” Portman says. Currently Geox is stocked in 360 doors, including key accounts such as John Lewis, but Portman feels there is still room for more. “I don’t think we have exhausted all potential points of sale yet, but we are not opening accounts aggressively either. We have to be in the right stores and with the right customers, otherwise it won’t work. It’s about considered, organic growth.” Own stores are another part of the strategy going forward. Globally Geox operates 1,161 stores, and currently Geox has eight stores in the UK, all of which are in London. This is set to be expanded to key cities outside of the capital, including Birmingham, Manchester, Leeds and Glasgow to ensure a more balanced geographical representation. Portman is keen to stress, however, that wholesale will remain the main route to market in the UK, and that any new store openings are there to aid with brand visibility and ultimately support the wholesale network. “Having own stores gives us the opportunity to show off the full scale of the Geox product range, including the outerwear alongside the footwear, and it’s great to boost the visibility of the brand on consumer level, which benefits our stockists. Essentially the retail business is there to drive the wholesale business,” explains Portman. E-commerce has also seen huge growth for Geox globally, which increased by 30 per cent last year on group level, which Portman also sees as another strategic distribution channel for Geox UK. “The market is changing so fast, particularly through the expansion of online, not just our own website, but also those of our stockists. As a brand, we therefore have to stay fluid and flexible,” he says. “The high street will continue to change, and we will continue to adapt.”

LEFT: Merino Fine Rib Coatigan - £29 RIGHT: Midnight Express Jacket - £42 Trousers - £25

MODA UK Stand S40

www.carolccollections.com

0800 612 9009

Red Dress - £26 Stripe Ponti Dress - £32 Merino Cardigan - £39.50

Sherpa Cardigan - £29 Jeans - £27

www.carolccollections.com

0800 612 9009

www.carolccollections.com

0800 612 9009 *average wholesale dress price ÂŁ23*

MODA S40 PURE F162

PURE F162

www.carolccollections.com

0800 612 9009

MODA S40

*average wholesale dress price ÂŁ23*

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CINQUE

The

style edit Autumn / winter 17 WWBâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s must-read guide to the season ahead and the trends, brands and key looks not to miss.

Fashion news u Brand guide a/w 17 u Directional fashion u Scoop preview u A flavour of Moda u

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Fashion News The new labels and launches not to miss for a/w 17.

MR & MRS P AGENCY EXPANDS PORTFOLIO London fashion agency Mr & Mrs P has been appointed as new UK representatives for German label Annette Görtz, UK label PK Berry and Italian label Piazza Sempione. Annette Görtz is known for its clean, minimalist silhouettes and understated colour schemes, impeccably crafted to highest quality standards. PK Berry, meanwhile, is a collection that centres around easy to wear tops and dresses that will take the wearer from Ibizan beaches through Parisian boulevards to English country gardens. Italian brand Piazza Sempione offers distinctive elegance with a focus on different weave fabrics, textures and volumes which are carefully tailored and adapted to the needs of contemporary life, with day to evening styles at the core.

FOS FASHION MARKETING MOVES TO NEW SHOWROOM Fashion agency FOS Fashion Marketing has moved to a new state of the art showroom on 120 King’s Road in London. The 3,500 sq ft contemporary space is spread over several floors and houses the agency’s full brand portfolio, including Airfield, Apanage, Mac, Milano, Tramontana, Javier Simorra and Repeat, as well as three new collections for a/w 17: Italian brand Ekle, German brand Frieda & Freddies and US label Marciano. Ekle offers a total look with a clear and strong design signature and particular attention on best materials and details, while Frieda & Freddies is an outerwear-led collection that also focuses on tops, blouses and shirts at affordable price points. Marciano, meanwhile, is a new concept that predominantly offers day to evening dresses at commercial prices. Selling dates in the showroom are 23 January to 3 March.

FEEG JOINS DIANE SYKES FASHION MARKETING Irish fashion label FeeG has joined the brand portfolio of agency Diane Sykes Fashion Marketing for a/w 17. The brand, which has been established for 14 years, is very successful in its home market Ireland and is hoping to replicate this in the UK. The range offers well priced dresses that provide a modern and fresh approach to party and occasionwear dressing.

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APT COLLECTIONS EXPANDS WITH POLARBEAR Fashion agency Apt Collections has taken on German outerwear brand Polarbear for a/w 17. The range offers a high degree of design and trend influences, as well as timeless winter staples, with retail prices pitched between ÂŁ95 and ÂŁ220. Carefully selected fabrics ensure there is a balance between the latest technical outdoor qualities and wool blends, novelty yarns and fashionable fabric mixes. Brushed oversized checks, soft and voluminous boucles, fringed plaids and brushed textured animal prints all feature in the novelty section, complemented by shades of blues, reds, greys and neutrals. A small capsule of 10 double face wool styles also form part of the product offer, while high-tech and performance styles featuring shower proof quilting of different weights round off the collection. Mock and real fur trim options are available on every style, as are varying quilting stitch patterns. The agency will be targeting middle to upper end independent boutiques across the UK, with books open between 23 January and 21 February.

ABSOLUTE CASHMERE MAKES UK DEBUT French knitwear label Absolute Cashmere is launching to the UK for a/w 17 through fashion agency Leah Bernal. Established in 2012, the brand offers affordable, contemporary cashmere pieces, with generously oversized styles the key signature of the brand, making them ideal for layered looks. The brand is owned by French parent company MMC, which has been working with its suppliers for over 20 years and also owns the brand Notshy, allowing the company to respond quickly to new trends and ensure a high standard of quality.

Dutch clothing brand Smashed Lemon is launching a plus size collection for a/w 17 called La Lemon. The range focuses on stylish clothing for every occasion and covers sizes 16 to 26, with cuts and fits having been specifically developed with feminine, flattering silhouettes. The brand is represented in the UK by fashion agency Carol C Collections and will be showing at Moda Woman in February.

www.propress.co.uk

Fashion

Styled by Steam

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Autumn/Winter 2017

Brand guide

WWB’s guide to the trends, the brands and the news that will define the season ahead.

KEY LOOK

B YOUNG B Young’s a/w 17 collection is inspired by the colours of nature, infused with modern and sporty details and rich in materials and natural fibres. Military elements also feature in the range’s East meets West theme, but are combined with an Eastern Zen vibe. Graphics are inspired by Japanese flowers and are mixed with feminine lace, while silhouettes are simple and clean. —

SET Set stands for a progressive, urban casual look, centred around standout pieces that make a statement. This season’s collection once again offers a casually elegant yet edgy vibe, with a focus on leather, knitwear and coats. Attention to detail and quality is obvious, with only the finest leathers and materials used throughout. —

THOMAS RATH

MAC

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FRANSA Global travel has inspired Fransa’s a/w 17 collection, with exotic wildlife and flora influencing the colour schemes and prints. Shades of the desert and animal patterns feature heavily, with must-have styles including print-heavy trousers, jumpsuits and tops with cold shoulders. — u

ANNETTE GÖRTZ Statement coats are at the forefront at Annette Görtz this season. The brand remains true to its characteristic neutral colour palette, but skilfully plays with different textures and clean lines to create interest. —

TREND WATCH:

PRINTS CHARMING

RIANI

ATELIER GARDEUR

MARC AUREL

LAUREL

Continuing from the summer, statement prints on trousers return for another season, but this time they offer more wintery shades and graphics. Florals steal the show, whether that’s oversized blooms or eye-catching palm prints, while abstract patterns also feature. Cropped 7/8th lengths are key to the styling, showing off a bit of ankle and statement footwear – either sneakers, brogues or boots – to full effect.

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PICADILLY This season at Picadilly brings a more relaxed approach to dressing, with fabrics and clothes that can be adapted for all times of the day. The focus is on effortless looks for every occasion, with an array of fabrics and novelty treatments that form the basis for clean and streamlined silhouettes. Key looks include the tunic top, waterfall front over pieces, western inspired sweater knit ponchos and the bodycon shift dress. Key details such as grommet accents, fringe trim, and illusion cutouts feature throughout the collection. —

NÜ Early delivery styles from NÜ are inspired by the hustle and bustle of city living, which manifests itself through strong colours and soft tones fading into darkness. The collection offers an adventurous and exotic mix of fabrics, weights and colours , with versatile and edgy separates at the core. Contrasts and hidden detailing feature as new seasonal themes. —

TREND WATCH:

JACKET REQUIRED

5 HEARTS

EUGEN KLEIN

BRAX

MAC

Bomber jackets remain a key fashion item this season, however, not in the traditional style. The focus for a/w 17 is on silky, blouse-like versions, featuring statement prints or cool metallic shades. Versatile, flattering and on-trend, this season’s bomber jackets can be dressed down with a pair of jeans or casual pants as seen at Brax and Mac, or can work on a more dressy daytime look, as demonstrated by 5 Hearts and Eugen Klein.

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SPORTALM For a/w 17, Sportalm offers fashionable coats with fur trims and collars, as well as versatile jackets alongside strong coordinating separates in soft colours such as pale blue, lime and pink, mixed with classic colours like camel, white, grey and black. — u

LUISA CERANO Luisa Cerano focuses on colours and textures this season, with key shades including lime green, mustard, burnt orange, blues, greys and cream, with the odd statement pattern thrown into the mix. The silhouettes remain typically clean and minimalist, with luxurious looks that play with and layer contrasting materials, such as velvet against silk, or fine cotton against thick wool. Statement coats are key in the collection. —

KEY LOOK

THOUGHT Art has been the main inspiration for Thought this season, with colour and abstract prints becoming the focal point of clean, effortless silhouettes. Florals are hand sketched, and colours are blocked, while knits come in a variety of weights, from chunky jacquards through light layers. Mist, plum, soft ochre, blues and burnt orange make up the colour palette. —

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MONARI Monari presents a total of nine themes, focusing on the right balance between fashion trends and commercial looks. Athleisure and Utility are among the key influences, while product that is transseasonal and wearable as soon as it’s delivered also sees a bigger emphasis in the range. —

THOMAS RATH

LUISA CERANO

JAMES LAKELAND Standout pieces form the backbone of James Lakeland’s a/w 17 collection, with winter hues such as emerald green and bright blue taking centre stage. Stretch velvets, beautiful wools and super soft yarns feature heavily, with the collection having been extended to include monthly ranges with increased drops and re-order facilities. —

CINQUE

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SCHNEIDERS Schneiders specialises in tailored styles for indoor and outdoor looks, with casual blazers, long knitted cardigans and luxury wool pieces among the key highlights this season. Tones of precious stones ranging from blue to sapphire and topaz, radiant emerald and ruby red are complemented by a range of spice tones such as chilli, curry and olive as well as bordeaux. Understated taupe and pebble shades of grey complete the palette. —

SMASHED LEMON Smashed Lemon is known for its vibrant prints, and this season is no different, with more bright and playful patterns forming the basis for the collection. Key items for a/w 17 include the staple Smashed Lemon dresses for both day and night, alongside cosy knitwear and quirky trousers and skirts. — TREND WATCH:

VELVET UNDERGROUND Velvet is everywhere for a/w 17, and Palazzo pants in particular are among the key looks of the season. An ideal winter fabric, velvet works brilliantly on more festive outfits, too, combined with sequin tops for eye-catching party style, or set against cosy knits for a warm winter vibe. Head to toe velvet looks are also bang on-trend, whether that’s in the form of velvet dresses, or skirt and blazer combinations.

MARC CAIN

MARC AUREL

LAUREL uuu

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KEY LOOK

NICE CONNECTION Nice Connection offers cashmere and cashmere/ wool styles, with this season being dominated by long, oversized coatigans in prints and plains, twinsets and luxurious knitwear styles with coordinating silk jersey tops. Appliqués, stars, glitter and embroidery add the finishing touches, while the colour palette centres around lipstick red, royal blue, navy, grey, lime and winter white. — p

STEFANEL Stefanel continues with the changes that the brand implemented with the s/s 17 collection, mainly returning to its origins and focusing on its core expertise, knitwear. The knits are enhanced by elaborate knitted stitch loops, with the focus on precious yarns that capture a winter look – from pure cashmere in different gauges to finest baby alpaca and yak. The brand’s iconic bonded knitted coat is among the predicted bestsellers. —

BLUBIANCO Blubianco is a Made in Italy knitwear range, with items complemented by coordinating separates such as silk tops with lace and diamante trims, dresses with sleeves and trousers in flattering silhouettes. Soft colours such as pink, blue and mint mixed with grey, white and camel feature throughout. —

MARBLE

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MICHELE Luxury Glam is the leading theme at Michele this season, with opulent jacquards and prints as well as precious velvets and mock velour leathers creating a mystical mood. Rhinestones, velvet ribbons and shiny rivets are used to create elaborate looks, while cuts are narrow and made to give the impression of long legs. Shaped waistbands underline this narrow silhouette. The brand’s Magic jeans line continues to be the bestseller, with new, upgraded denims and fine stitching introduced for this season. —

JOULES The a/w 17 collection delivers a combination of trend-led lifestyle and practical garments, with the British seaside providing key inspiration here. Nautical blues and striking reds sit in a variety of floral and abstract patterns for an urban take on autumnal walks along the shore. Other fashion stories focus on linear florals with a contemporary, feminine feel. —

TREND WATCH:

THE HYGGE EFFECT This season is all about cosy, comfy knits that hug the body and give that snug feeling, like a wearable version of the ubiquitous hygge concept. Jumpers, chunky coatigans and cardigans feature heavily here, while a neutral colour palette adds to the calm and warm overall look.

STEFANEL

RIANI

ATELIER GARDEUR uuu

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CINQUE There is a subtle 80s vibe running through the collection at Cinque, which is defined by combining contrasting elements such as edgy-tough with high-class looks, or romantic influences with biker-style elements. Oversized and yet structured silhouettes are combined to create a relaxed and sophisticated theme. —

KEY LOOK

BANDOLERA A clean and minimalist aesthetic defines the look at Bandolera, with key shades centred around grey, black, rose, oxblood and lime, making for a sophisticated colour palette. Oversized silhouettes feature throughout, with XL coats and loose knits juxtaposed with body-hugging and feminine dresses and blouses. —

SKUNKFUNK Over 80 per cent of Skunkfunk’s collection is made from environmentally friendly fibres, including recycled polyester, organic cotton, Lyocell, ramie, linen, hemp and recycled leather. The brand delivers small and regular drops to cater for the demand for fresh product and seasonally relevant delivery times. Looks in the range are effortlessly elegant, daring and feminine. —

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represented by

Showroom: 10 Middleton Place · London W1W 7TG Phone 07906 070081

SELLING DATES

Autumn /Winter Collection 2017 1st COLLECTION 12 JAN — 27 JAN 2017 2nd COLLECTION 02 FEB — 24 FEB 2017 SCOOP LONDON 12 FEB — 14 FEB 2017 SAATCHI GALLERY

www.marc-aurel.com

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FABER Several colour stories once again lead the direction of the collection this season, with fuchsia, blue, cream and black, as well as night blue, silver and cognac among the key shades. Sophisticated animal patterns, stripes made from fluffy yarns, and houndstooth in cream and black feature heavily, with long coatigans, ponchos and casual oversized pullovers forming some of the main highlight pieces. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

TREND WATCH:

DARK MATTER

MARBLE

ROBE LEGERE BY VERA MONT

LUISA CERANO

FOIL

MARC AUREL

APANAGE Sophisticated blacks and greys dominate the colour spectrum at Apanage this season, with clean, minimalist lines key to a/w 17 looks. Dresses are once again at the forefront of the label, with effortless and easy-to-wear designs that are versatile for day to evening. Floral prints create interest and add pops of colour to the range. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

A/w 17 returns to the dark side, with classic black proving a popular head to toe look. The key is to be adventurous with textures and to combine different fabrics and material weights to still give the outfits interest and structure. Layering is key here, with sleeveless dresses or gilets worn over rollneck tops among the classic looks that work season on season. uuu

AW17 Preview Pure, Hall H1, V90 | Moda, E29 | Micam, Hall 2, K36 E sales@jacobsongroup.co.uk T 01706 212512 W www.ravel.co.uk

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PERUZZI Over at Peruzzi, you will find luxurious knits, appliqué tops, unstructured dresses, stylish coats and trousers, in individual fabric combinations, including wool mixes, faux fur, faux suede, pleather, velvets, viscose mixes and textured fabrics. Full length coats are among the predicted bestsellers. —

RABE Rabe targets the elegant, stylish and young at heart woman who has an interest in fashion but does not want to compromise on quality and good fit. The collection is therefore geared towards commercial designs that reference key themes, while using patented yarns that are allergy tested and skin friendly, with flattering cardigans, jumpers, tops and sporty styles key. —

TREND WATCH:

COLOUR BURST Orange pops up everywhere and injects some welcome colour accents into the fashion mix. Brands such as Marc Cain, James Lakeland and Laurel advocate bold head to toe looks, but if you prefer a more understated direction, use orange as a clever colour highlight in otherwise neutral outfits.

DOM GOOR Luxury shearling and leather brand Dom Goor presents another collection of impeccably crafted outerwear styles, with elegant shearling coats and fur gilets among the key highlights for a/w 17. The brand continues its neutral colour scheme, with creams, whites and beiges in particular oozing a luxurious and cosy vibe. — BRAX

MARC CAIN

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LATTE Latte puts outerwear centre stage this season, with lightweight, fluffy coats and statement jackets key in the collection. Rich jewel colours alongside blacks and greys make up the colour palette, while a new line called Prosecco Time opens with a season-neutral section dedicated to transseasonal product, geared for the first feel of autumn. The 140-piece collection includes edgy knitwear, iconic tops, tunics and statement outerwear as well as contemporary day dresses. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

KEY LOOK

RIANI The colour blue in all its atmospheric shades is a key theme at Riani this season. Decorative navy uniforms and patterns such as Japanese coloured woodcuts with the famous wave of printmaker Hokusai are combined with blue denim. Silhouettes are clean and minimalist, giving an air of relaxed sophistication. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

JAMES LAKELAND

LAUREL

Shirt – Bench £14 07827 813987 Trousers – Samsoe & Samsoe £40.70 020 3137 3901 Neck tie – stylist’s own

FROM DUSK TILL DAWN WWB HIGHLIGHTS THE STANDOUT A/W 17 PIECES, LOOKS AND TRENDS FROM ACROSS THE CONTEMPORARY AND YOUNG FASHION SECTOR.

Photographer: Richard Boyle Stylist: Victoria Jackson Female Model: Shannon Aitken www.bossmodelmanagment.co.uk Male Model: Harrison Giles www.bossmodelmanagement.co.uk

Dress – Y-Y Lin £77 0161 359 4320 Gilet – Silvian Heach £53 020 3432 6385 Boots – Fairfax & Favor £102 01760 338199

Jumper – Samsoe & Samsoe £94.90 020 3137 3901 Trousers – Native Youth £16.75 0161 835 2064 Trainers – stylist’s own

Shacket – Samsoe & Samsoe £115.40 020 3137 3901 Trousers – Bench £18 07827 813987 T-shirt – Chunk Clothing £13.50 020 7609 6758 Trainers – Ylati £59.90 0039 0815 261242 Gilet – Parka London £66 020 7424 6889 Denim jacket – Native Youth £18.25 0161 835 2064 Leather trousers – SEN £659 07767 614124 T-shirt – People Tree £12 020 7042 8920 Boots – Fairfax & Favor £102 01760 338199

Jacket – Silvian Heach £44 020 3432 6385 Trousers – Bellfield £13.82 0161 230 7312 Top (just seen) Bellfield £10.91 0161 230 7312 Jewellery – stylist’s own Jacket – Luke £31.50 01869 366580 Trousers – Casual Friday £16.30 020 3432 6387 Shirt – Samsoe & Samsoe £30.80 020 3137 3901

Jumpsuit – N12H £75 0161 359 4320 Jacket – Silvian Heach £85 020 3432 6385 Boots – Fairfax & Favor £102 01760 338199

Dress – People Tree £36 020 7042 8920 Jacket – Soia + Kyo price on request 07767 614124

Bomber jacket – Y-Y Lin £78.40 0161 359 4320 Jumper – Bench £20 07827 813987 Jeans – Nine in the Morning £134 07767 614124

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Beatrice B

The lure

of Scoop 12 to 14 February, Saatchi Gallery, Chelsea, London

Boutique trade show Scoop is returning to its original home, the Saatchi Gallery in Chelsea this season, and once again itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a treasure trove of beautiful ready-to-wear, accessory, footwear and lifestyle brands, international designers, emerging labels, niche artisans and quirky products, many of whom can only been seen exclusively at the show. WWB takes a look at some of the most original labels forming this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s line-up.

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Julie Sion

Little Rotters

Rick Rhe

Swell

BEATRICE B Italian brand Beatrice B is all about the natural harmony between art and fashion, with an appreciation for innovation and refined details. Artists and artworks of different periods inspire the collections, with elegance and sophistication defining key looks. JULIE SION French designer Julie Sion incorporates everything from beads and stones to gems and brass into her stunning designs, which are a melting pot of style directions and influences from her life. LITTLE ROTTERS Little Rotters is the perfect go-to-brand for quirky and slightly eccentric design, a truly unique collection featuring little creatures in rudimentary forms that speak to the dark humour in all of us. Made using methods of electroforming, no two pieces are quite the same. SWELL Swell was launched in 2010 with a mission to rid the world of plastic bottles. Beautifully crafted, the bottles keep drinks cold for 24 hours and hot for 12, and the countless eye-catching designs mean that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not only a practical, but also a very stylish fashion accessory. RICK RHE Rick Rhe is a young cutting-edge womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s demi-couture fashion brand launched by designer Rick Lee, who conveys his contemporary designs into artisanal high fashion made in Italy. Inspired by traditional art and architecture from the oriental and occidental worlds, he recreates these influences through a street couture style mixing different cultures.

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Catherine Osti

Transit Par Such

Stella Forest

Jamin Puech

TRANSIT PAR SUCH “Simplicity is complex” is the design philosophy behind Italian brand Transit, a family business with a 30-year history. Raw materials, soft colours and timeless design define the aesthetic of the collection, which is once again returning to Scoop this season. CATHERINE OSTI Parisian designer Catherine Osti began her career in Chanel’s famous tailoring workshops in Paris, where she worked for six years on haute couture collections. Having accumulated a wealth of experience, she launched her own brand based on a simple concept: to create a fashion accessory that goes with all outfits and enhances any silhouette. This is what she achieved when she created an exclusive collection of Jewellery Cuffs, a concept in which shirt cuffs are given a high-class designer twist and are embellished with jewels, lace, braids and more. STELLA FOREST Stella Forest redefines the meaning of affordable luxury. Designed in the heart of Paris, the brand offers a skilfully curated selection of travel inspired womenswear with exclusive colours, patterns and materials. Contemporary and in touch with trends whilst still remaining true to the designs’ ethnic chic, the brand’s strong identity is centred around exclusive prints. JAMIN PUECH Jamin Puech has been making extraordinary bags since 1989. Every piece is handmade like a work of art and adorned with sequins, exotic wood, Asian pearls, gem stones, horn, fur or cowrie shells from Tahiti. Over time Jamin Puech has established a network of trusted artisans around the world, each with a specific craft, from Italian leather suppliers, master embroiderers in India or raffia crocheters in Madagascar, whose skills all come together in the brand’s unique bags.

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Ziio

Mercules

Thurley

Parka London

ZIIO Ziio jewellery combines silver, gold, semi-precious stones and Murano glass beads to create unique pieces inspired by different cultures. Entirely hand worked, designer and creator Elisabeth Paradon utilises an exclusive technique, developed through experience acquired during many years travelling and working in different lands. THURLEY Inspired by a scholarship awarded at the prestigious Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, Helen Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Connor returned to Australia and established the Thurley label, a name carried in her family for generations. Drawing inspiration from experiences of travel, culture and art, each season the collection features timeless pieces that are both modern and classic, specialising in eveningwear with a focus on masterfully embroidered dresses, extravagant outerwear and elegant gowns, as well as the latest addition of luxurious daywear. MERCULES Created by designer Mercedes Gallego, a graduate of Central Saint Martins, in Barcelona in 2010, the brand specialises in handbags that are entirely made in Spain. Each design is hand crafted with detail, quality and personality, with the range inspired by the dusty old West and country rock music. PARKA LONDON Parka London has taken the classic parka and turned it into a modern outerwear essential that is both functional and fashion-led. Every design detail has been considered and refined to make it work for modern individuals with busy lives. From the fabric to the cut, every detail is considered with attention to detail and quality.

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SB London

Knitts

Laylaleigh

Ivy Kirzhner

SB LONDON SB London was founded in 2015 by Punam Gudka with the aim to build on her heritage and love for creating beautiful pieces of jewellery and accessories that are wearable, versatile and timeless. The range skilfully mixes a variety of materials and metals, including sterling silver and enamels, gold and white topaz stones as well as beautiful diamonds. LAYLALEIGH Launched in 2010, specialist millinery brand Laylaleigh is the brainchild of Leigh Johnson, who, after running her own fashion boutique, decided to follow her true passion and create stunning hats. Johnson trained with industry leaders such as Ian Bennett, who introduced her to the traditional art of blocking hats, dying fabrics and feathers and creating trims from a vast array of millinery products. Whether it’s for weddings or races, Laylaleigh’s designs are original, stylish and creative. KNITTS Knitts is a contemporary knitwear brand that combines effortless luxury with finest materials and flawless workmanship. Made in Europe, the brand offers chic looks with high sustainability and ethical codes defining the brand philosophy, with styles that are minimalist and yet make a fashion statement. IVY KIRZHNER New York designer Ivy Kirzhner’s shoes have garnered a cult celebrity following, including the likes of Beyoncé, Jennifer Lopez. Whitney Port and more, thanks to their edgy statement designs. There are buckles, rivets and studs galore, in a collection that encompasses everything from boots through pumps and everything in between. GIZELLE RENEE Glove designer Gizelle Renee’s latest collection focuses on bold colour palettes and oozes femininity and refined style. The range of handmade luxury gloves continues to expand each season and now includes women’s and men’s styles as well as driving, wool, leather, evening and fingerless gloves and mittens.

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Gizelle Renee

Ilse Jacobsen

Lauren Moshi

Rosie Fortescue

Maruti

ROSIE FORTESCUE A sense of fun is the mantra of Rosie Fortescue’s jewellery line. The reality TV star turned jewellery designer is presenting her eponymous range at Scoop, which is centred predominantly around black rhodium pieces offering an array of geometric shapes and colourful gemstones. ILSE JACOBSEN Danish lifestyle brand Ilse Jacobsen is returning to Scoop with a collection that embraces Scandinavian simplicity and cool comfort in balance with modern, urban living. Raincoats, wellies and boots are at the core of the range, though the offer has been considerably expanded to include ready-to-wear, bags and accessories. LAUREN MOSHI American label Lauren Moshi is the brainchild of brother and sister duo Michael and Lauren, who have been inspired by high fashion, art, and the LA lifestyle. Each piece in the range has been meticulously crafted in limited quantities, using only the finest fabrics for ultimate comfort. MARUTI Dutch brand Maruti’s shoes are centred around clean designs, striking fashion prints and high-quality leathers. Every season the brand experiments with different techniques to develop new materials and finishes, and because only natural materials are used and different painting techniques and experimental washings are applied, no one pair is exactly the same. — For more information, pre-registration and an up to date exhibitor list visit www.scoop-international.com

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A flavour of Moda Next month’s edition of Moda Woman will host some of the finest domestic and international labels around, with a wealth of contemporary collections making their debut at the show, while key players make a welcome return. WWB takes a first look at what the a/w 17 show has to offer. u

FREEQUENT FreeQuent takes inspiration from all around the world, offering a wearable and versatile collection that is suitable for every day life. Hailed as the ‘ultimate full-range closet’, the latest fashion trends are combined in one brand, with a feminine and contemporary undertone.

ACCESS Established in 2000 in Thessaloniki, Greece, Access is an original and feminine ready-to-wear collection divided into three separate lines, Access, Spell and Eight. Access is the basic collection, with clean, minimalist lines, while Spell is the more glamorous range,with colourful, girly garments with eyecatching details. Eight, meanwhile, offers casual style with garments perfect for everyday life.

An adventurous and exotic contrast of fabrics, weights and colours meets NÜ’s signature style of transitional, versatile separates to create an edgy, attitudinal collection. Contrasts and hidden detailing feature as new, seasonal themes, with the a/w 17 collection featuring easy-to-wear day to night tops and tunics, statement outerwear as well as striking and original handmade knitwear.

Boardmans is launching its new line, created in collaboration with London designer Alice Hannah, at Moda this season. The collection focuses on quality fashion accessories with inspiration taken from British design, building on Alice Hannah’s premium reputation for upmarket lamb’s wool and elegant fur yarns.

NÜ

BOARDMANS

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BRODIE CASHMERE Brodie Cashmere brings together the best raw materials, skills and heritage to create garments that will take the wearer from Sunday afternoon walks to wrapping up warm on winter nights. The cashmere is machine washable and wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t pill, offering luxurious quality that is not only wearable, but practical.

19 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 21 February 2017 NEC Birmingham

www.moda-uk.co.uk q

Irish brand Fee G is returning to Moda with its latest collection of elegant day to evening styles. Created by Fiona Heaney and her partner Don Gormley over 10 years ago, the business continues to grow and evolve. The collection includes carefully crafted dresses, coats and accessories.

The essence of Regarde le Ciel shoes are carefully selected leathers, chosen based on their quality and ethical production and sourcing values. Each style is skilfully crafted and processed with environmentally friendly methods, making for original and individual shoes that combine a sophisticated aesthetic with key trend influences.

FEE G

SILVIAN HEACH Silvian Heach is an Italian fashion brand with a strong identity, competitive prices and attention to detail. The brand offers a vast selection of stylish coats and glamorous dresses, as well as a range of more casual clothing, covering every occasion and dress style.

REGARDE LE CIEL

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E-tail Clinic

Essential e-commerce advice The expert view: It’s time to rethink retail In May 2013 the Retail Research Centre forecast a bleak high street by 2018 with a very much reshaped retail landscape. As we enter 2017, how real are these forecasts of a 22 per cent decline in stores and a near doubling of online sales? Without doubt there will be fewer stores and retailers are already taking action to accommodate the new shopper who sees no boundaries between physical and digital shopping, only a single brand that should deliver a single and consistent experience across all channels. Mobile is King, personalisation is Queen and choice is a must if the customer of today is going to be kept satisfied and their thirst quenched for fast, interactive, comparative, convenient, any-channel shopping. A decade ago, going shopping meant taking a trip to the shops or browsing through a catalogue. High street brands such as Next successfully penetrated markets by combining two channels well, fulfilling it excellently and providing a rounded service through the till point instore and via call centres. Customers were happy, delivery and return expectations lower, profits were not bad and retail jobs abundant. While online shopping was on the rise, it was hardly the new norm for consumers and it was definitely not an activity that involved multiple devices, including the smartphone. Who would have predicted that by 2016, around one in three digital retail transactions would take place on a mobile device and that UK consumers would be turning to apps to buy things like new shoes for same-day delivery? Or that delivery by drones would even be being talked about! With consumers now expecting a seamless shopping experience across an increasing range of connected devices and outlets, in which immediacy and convenience are table stakes, it is becoming a matter of life and death for some brands and retailers. And this is only set to expand over the next decade as we see the traditional UK high street condense, converge and shrink. Many consumers will want an environment where shopping is an event experience in its own right. This will translate into interactive, highly engaging online and real-world retail environments, alongside social instore cafeterias and comfortable product browsing areas. The adoption of instore AR, online catalogues for extended aisles is already a blossoming phenomenon. Online retailers such as Made.com, Google and The Idle Man are popping up on the high street to offer ‘experience’ and ‘try before you buy’. With brands such as Made By Google in shopping centres and on the high street, it is becoming a fine grey line between instore and online retailing. The online march onto the high street for the essential ‘brand and product experience’ is accelerating the amalgamation of online and physical shopping. It is no longer just about bricks and mortar stores offering click & collect via their website; it is all about blending digital and physical experiences into one and delivering omni-channel experiences at every opportunity and point of brand experience. Ian Tomlinson, CEO, Cybertill. You can download the free guide, Multi-Channel Efficiency. What are you doing? Your guide to the right solution, at www.retailstore.co.uk

Web chat: GEMMA FOX Owner of Plume Boutique, Marlow When did you launch your website and is it transactional? We launched the original transactional site back in 2006 before many of the big players like ASOS, Net-a-Porter, Matches and My-Wardrobe had gained momentum, so we enjoyed a fantastic run of online sales. What percentage of your business does your site constitute? We take approximately 10 per cent of our sales from the website, but we expect this to increase to 15-20 per cent over the next 12 months. Are you selling the same stock online as in-store? Yes, and so far there have not proved any issues as our sales systems are all integrated, so the stock levels are live both in-store through our cloudbased POS system and on our website. Is your e-commerce arm growing? The e-commerce side of the business is definitely growing and we have even seen more of our regular customers going to the website first before they consider coming to the store. As the e-commerce store is available 24/7, it’s an invaluable sales channel that we could not survive without. We have re-designed the website four times in the last 10 years, with our most recent relaunch last month. What are your plans for the site and how would you like it to develop? We would like to see more activity on the website, of course. The business model will shortly be changing to a showroom based store by appointment only, so we aim to increase our database through social media marketing and regional events.

85%

Number of UK consumers who bought at least half of their Christmas gifts online in 2016 *Source: Tryzens

The proportion of all click & collect items that are clothing and footwear. This figure is set to rise significantly over the next five years. *Source: Verdict

54%

A W / 2 0 1 7 w w w.ronaldjoyce.com/enquiries@ronaldjoyce.com

View the New Collection at Stand U19, 19th - 21st February

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Retailer spotlight:

CREATIVE HUB’S VINTAGE TREASURES

AWARDS RECOGNITION FOR NOTTINGHAM BOUTIQUE

A new boutique has opened in a creative community space in Lewisham, South East London. Thunder & Lightning stocks one-off vintage finds alongside vintage inspired independent brands including Collectif, Crown & Glory and Syd & Mallory, Mod Dolly and Finest Imaginary. The boutique is based within the creative hub Place/Ladywell, which was set up by Meanwhile Space (the people behind POP Brixton). Hailing from Cornwall, owner Morgan Webber-Newman also sews and knits her own clothes, specialising in unique vintage pieces.

Nottingham boutique Stick & Ribbon reached the finalist stage in two local awards recently. The store was named as one of the top five businesses in the Retail & Services category in the It’s in Nottingham competition 2016, and also became a finalist in the Nottingham Evening Post Women in Business Awards for Small Business of the Year 2016. Sally Longden, owner of the boutique, says, “We were so proud to have got so far in both local competitions this year, bringing together an amazing year for us.”

Retail Forum The latest in-store news from the industry

HAVE YOU OPENED A NEW STORE , LAUNCHED A TRANSACTIONAL WEB SITE , ORGANISED AN EVENT OR HAVE ANY OTHER IN-STORE NEWS? THEN LET US KNOW BY GETTING IN TOUCH AT REBECCA . JACKSON@RAS-PUBLISHING.COM.

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WWW.NOLABOUTIQUE.CO.UK

Previously listed by UK Vogue as one of Britain’s best boutiques, Nola Boutique is no stranger to high praise and recognition. Established in 2004, the store is located within the creative heart of Brighton’s shopping district and bohemian area, North Laine. The e-tail arm of the business, Nola Online, prides itself on offering a service equal to that of its bricks and mortar boutique, with advice on fabric and fit offered via the ‘personal service’ option. Stocking a mix of new labels and crowd pleasing favourites, key brands include A.P.C., American Vintage, Chinti & Parker, Zoe Karssen, YMC and Pomandere. Meanwhile, a strong online media presence and the online blog highlights the latest in-store happenings and product news.

SALLY WHITE Director, White Boutique and White Bride, Narberth, Pembrokeshire What is your current bestseller in-store? The current bestseller is a Yaya kimono cape in blue and ivory. It’s a great little cover up, and at £39 we sold it to all sorts of people. The Seven Boot Lane leopard and leather boots were fab too. They’re a bit different and at £165 they’re a good price. How have you found trading over the last month? Trade has been good: we are currently 20 per cent for the season up on 2015 and November was a good month for us, at 35 per cent up on last year. What have you been doing to drive traffic in-store? We have looked at what sells and what the customer is buying and tried to satisfy that, and we do a lot on Facebook and Instagram to tell customers what is going on. We do some Facebook advertising, but find that regular posts work really well.

R E T A I L T A L K / 87 wwb-online.co.uk

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LEEDS STORE CELEBRATES MUSIC MAKEOVER WIN

Last month Accent Clothing became the winner of PRS for Music’s national Music Makeover Fashion category, which was newly launched in 2016. The Leeds store beat 130 other stores to claim the prize and was awarded £5,000 to upgrade its soundsystem. As part of the celebrations, DJ Luke Tibble, Marsicans (pictured) and Bianca Gerald all performed at an in-store event. Renowned producer Steve Levine and All Saints founder Stuart Trevor were also in attendance. PRS for Music launched the annual Music Makeover competition six years ago to showcase and raise awareness of how important music is to local businesses.

AWARDS HAT-TRICK FOR FAB FROCKS Special occasion boutique Fab Frocks has won the Best Wedding Attire award at the 2016 Dorset Wedding Supplier Awards. Celebrating the best in the wedding industry across the county, this is the third year in a row that the Bournemouth boutique has won the award. Applications are blind-judged by a team of experts from various wedding sectors. Fab Frocks’ owner, Tracie Beardsley, says, “We are delighted with our hat-trick and to win this prestigious award again. It is testament to all the hard work put in by our small team here at Fab Frocks.”

MELANIE PRESS owner Press of Primrose Hill, London When the Triyoga centre opposite my boutique closed down in 2014, a lot of people in the local area were opposed to it. The centre was a big part of the community here in Primrose Hill, and it brought a lot of footfall to the area because of the parking space. I don’t blame the councillors for wanting something more profitable there, but why don’t they put more time and energy into trying to find out what local people want? I’ve noticed a significant decrease in footfall since the Triyoga centre disappeared and, two years later, they’re still not finished building the flats and offices that will replace the centre. On the positive side, I’ve had to think about diversifying my business and I’m going to launch my own label. I’m a designer at heart so I’m really excited to get started.

Q&A:

Are you looking to adjust your brand portfolio for a/w 17 buying?

CINDY MARRITT

CHLOE MCCAIG

ADRIANA GREEN

ALEXANDRA BOARDMAN

Owner of Cindy’s, Sutton Bridge, Lincolnshire

Owner of Ruban Rouge, Bridge of Allan, Stirling

Owner, Scarecrow Boutique, London N8

Owner, Alexandra’s of Keswick, Cumbria

“For a/w 17 we will be looking to add more accessory brands. We already stock great brands, but we have noticed a growth across all of our accessories sales, so this will be something we focus on for next year.”

“I will largely stick to my current portfolio or at least with the brands that have done well. For a/w 16 we took on Lilly and Me and I have been really pleased with the sell through rates. I’ll definitely be increasing my spend with them for a/w 17.”

“We have been pleased with the current labels and the way they have performed, but we are always looking out for something new and a little bit different. A new accessories collection is the top of our list. So, as always, we will be scouring the halls at Moda, looking for that elusive something new.”

“I have waved one of my brands goodbye for the summer already, it was just getting too repetitive and my ladies like to see something new. For the a/w 17 buy, I am looking for more partywear – it seems my customers couldn’t get enough of it this year!”

88 / I N F O R M A T I O N wwb-online.co.uk

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5 Hearts 020 7636 5677 www.eugenklein.com Absolute Cashmere 07958 735872 www.notshy.fr Annette Görtz 07773 040697 www.mrandmrspagency.com Atelier Gardeur 020 7580 6244 www.atelier-gardeur.com Bandolera 0031 20 3039563 www.bandolera.com Bellfield 0161 230 7312 www.bellfieldclothing.com Bench 07827 813987 www.bench.co.uk B Young 07836 596311 www.byoung.com Blubianco 020 7434 1994 www.blubiancomilano.com Casual Friday 020 3432 6387 www.casual-friday.eu Chunk Clothing 020 7609 6758 www.chunkclothing.com Cinque 0049 1234 567890 www.cinque.de Dom Goor 07773 040697 www.mrandmrspagency.com Eugen Klein 020 7636 5677 www.eugenklein.com Faber 020 8441 6305 www.faberknitwear.de Fairfax & Favor 01760 338199 www.fairfaxandfavor.com Fee G 07906 070081 www.feeg.ie Foil 0800 612 9009 www.foilclothing.com Fransa 0161 236 9251 www.fransa.com James Lakeland 020 7636 7130 www.jamelakeland.net Joules 01858 435261 www.joules.com Latte 0141 204 0699 www.latteclothing.com Laurel 020 7608 9100 www.laurel.de Luisa Cerano 020 7323 6100 www.luisacerano.com Luke 01869 366580 www.luke1977.com Marble 01418 826743 www.marblefashions.co.uk Marc Aurel 07906 070081 www.marc-aurel.com Michele 020 7636 4207 www.michele-fashion.com Monari 020 7636 4207 www.monari.de Mrs and Mrs P 07773 040697 www.mrandmrspagency.com N12H 0161 359 4320 www.n12h.com Native Youth 0161 835 2064 ww.native-youth.com Nice Connection 020 7434 1994 www.nice-connection.com Nine in the Morning 07767 614124 www.nineinthemorning.com Nu 020 7702 0203 www.nu-denmark.com Parka London 020 7424 6889 www.parkalondon.com Picadilly 020 7580 3202 www.picadilly.ca People Tree 020 7042 8920 www.peopletree.co.uk Polarbear 020 7580 3202 www.ferentino.de Rabe 020 7636 4207 Riani 01704 823005 www.riani.de Samsoe & Samsoe 020 3137 3901 www.samsoe.com Scapa 020 7434 1994 www.scapa.com Schneiders 020 7636 4207 www.schneiders.com SEN 07767 614124 www.sencollection.com Silvian Heach 020 3432 6385 www.silvianheach.com Skunkfunk 020 7702 0203 www.skunkfunk.com Smashed Lemon 0800 612 9009 www.smashed-lemon.com Soia + Kyo 07767 614124 www.soiakyo.com Sportalm 020 7434 1994 www.sportalm.at Thomas Rath 0049 2161 813647 www.thomas-rath-trousers.com Thomas Rabe 020 7636 4207 www.rabemoden.de Thought 020 7607 1173 www.wearethought.com Ylati 0039 0815 261242 www.ylatifootwear.com Y-Y Lin 0161 359 4320

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The Last Word with... Dom Goor, founder and designer, Dom Goor comes to colours, texture, fur length and finishes. We only use the best quality soft Spanish skins that are very warm, lightweight and glamorous. We cut the shearling shapes in a flattering way that accentuates the female form. It makes for a combination that is very hard to resist. Do you still manufacture everything in the UK? Absolutely. We are proud to be ‘Made in England’ and a truly British brand. We manufacture everything in our own factory in East London and have always done so. We have a team of 25 highly skilled workers and we are still growing. Many of my team have been with me from the beginning back in 1992 and we have created many bestselling designs in this time. UK manufacture has a great advantage for the retailer as we react quickly on orders and reorders. We hold skins so our customers do not have to hold stock. They can call in sizes as they sell or order in season. Fast sampling is another advantage of a UKbased manufacturing company, as we have our own in-house design team and pattern cutters. I feel very passionate about keeping alive an industry that has shrunk by 90 per cent over the last 30 years due to so many imported garments. I would love to see more stuff being made in the UK in the future again. When did you launch the label and what prompted you to do so? I first started working in sheepskin and leather in 1992 while I was still at art school. I started designing and making good value and stylish jackets for students. I gained my first wholesale customer in 1993, and in 1994 I opened my first factory in East London. Very soon after, Mary Skinner Agency took on my label and we managed to gain many more wholesale accounts around UK and Ireland. I formally started the Dom Goor label in 2011.

What are your plans for the range? Dom Goor is our top-end, luxury range, through which we have developed our stunning knitwear collection for winter 2017. The success of our collections within the UK’s top department stores has been great to see, with garments selling out fast in the run-up to Christmas. Our other label, 88 & Half, offers accessories such as mittens, hats, gloves, snoods, scarves and collars, as there is a large market in shearling accessories and shearling mixed with knitwear.

You’re stocked in some of the finest stores in the UK and abroad – do you still want to grow? What is your brand’s USP? Dom Goor is focused on designing and delivering the best in Yes, I am so proud of what we have achieved to date and I woman’s luxury wear, using materials such as cashmere, leather definitely want to see the brand develop further because I know and sheepskin to produce my collections. Our aim is to make that there is so much more to come. I have plans to develop women feel amazing while wearing our designs. I have always Dom Goor into the European and American markets and am focused on luxury being at the very essence of the garments and actively looking for routes in. collections that I have developed over the last 24 years. What is your personal style? Skinny jeans, fitted T-shirts, fashion trainers or pointed shoes. In winter I love getting out The shearling coat is your my old faithful eight year-old shearling with fur collar. signature – why did you specialise in this? What are the three things on your bucket list? Shearling is a wonderful product to Dance tango, walk the Inca trail and live by the sea. work with and I still get so excited each year when we are working with What is your secret talent? the tannery on producing our new I would not say that I have a secret talent as such but I love to design and develop fashion. shearling colours. The materials such as suede, leather texture and fur are What is the best piece of business advice you’ve ever been given? very versatile and you are only Don’t bother if you are not passionate about it – and control your cash flow. limited by your imagination when it

www.riani.de · Chantelle Wilkinson · Finches Agency · Syd Brook Lane · Mawdesley · L40 2RD · T. 01704 823 005 · Slm4@hotmail.co.uk