CWB MAGAZINE JUNE/JULY ISSUE 106 by fashion buyers Ltd

A FRESH LOOK AT KIDS’ FASHION, FOOTWEAR AND LIFESTYLE PRODUCTS

cwb-online.co June/July 2017 | Issue 106 £9.95

BUBBLE LONDON Exclusive preview of this season’s show SPRING/SUMMER 2018 COLOUR FORECAST The key s/s 18 colour stories for kidswear A DANISH DELIGHT The latest on MarMar Copenhagen

Incorporating

SCHOOLWEAR BUYER:

F O R M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N O R TO B O O K A N A P P O I N T M E N T C O N TA C T O U R T R A D E T E A M O N: E: trade@joules.com T: 0 1 8 5 8 4 3 5 2 6 1

CONTENTS | CWB-ONLINE.CO

CONT ENTS:

37 14 20

REGULARS

FEATURES

05: Comment

18: Twenty Questions with Our Kid, winner of the Best New Store category in the CWB Independent Retail Awards 2016.

06: News 08: NCWA 10: Open for business Legal and business advice plus industry opinion 14: Retail Therapy Store profiles and retail news 16: Brands to Watch Editor’s pick of brands 50: Style guide Twinning sets 51: Laura loves The coolest products for kids 62: Talking point Keely Deininger, designer and owner, Angel’s Face

20: A Danish delight Q&A with MarMar Copenhagen founder and head designer, Marlene Anine Holmboe 22: Shaping the future of children’s footwear design Start-rite Shoes’ head of design discusses alternative inspirations for kids’ footwear innovation. 24: Trotters’ next steps The retailer’s latest developments and wholesale footwear launch 26: The future is full of opportunity Round-up of the recent Bira High Street Conference 28: Sister act The latest on Solobi, the UK childrenswear agency founded by three Danish sisters

30: Exhibition calendar The trade show guide 32: Spring/Summer 2018 colour forecast S/s 18 colour stories for kidswear 37: Bubble London Preview of the s/s 18 show SCHOOLWEAR 55: News 56: SA Awards 2017 Everything you need to know about the inaugural Schoolwear Association industry awards 58: Meet the Manufacturer Three British manufacturers of schoolwear who recently showcased their spectrum of skills at London’s Meet the Manufacturer trade show Front Cover image: Barn of Monkeys 00351 252 020 430 www.barnofmonkeys.com JUNE/JULY 2017 - 03

LONDON

meliamelia.com

See things differently...

16 & 17 July 2017 Business Design Centre

COMMENT | CWB-ONLINE.CO

COM MENT: A survey I came across recently stated that 2017 is the year of the small business, with eight out of 10 consumers planning to use independent businesses over larger stores. — CURIOUS ORANJ

The survey in question was commissioned by UK alternative finance provider Liberis to discover the attitudes of over 200 UK consumers towards small business. While it only provides a mere snapshot, the findings are still interesting and more importantly, encouraging. Data revealed that 77 per cent of those surveyed pledged to shop at or use small businesses more than they did in 2016, with 41 per cent of consumers already shopping at smaller businesses. And, despite 65 per cent stating they’re aware that using a smaller provider can be more expensive, responses suggested that the benefits – namely boosting the local economy and supporting their local community – outweighed the increased costs. Clothing and gift retailers were the second most utilised independent businesses, with 45 per cent of respondents using independents, mainly for the convenience, suggesting that locality is still advantageous for many purchases. Friendly and personalised service was also a big pull, with 51 per cent of those polled saying there was a notable difference between the quality of customer service offered in a small business compared to larger stores, with comments including small stores seeming “more genuine” and “going out of their way to help you”. While Liberis’s findings are most certainly what we want to hear, childrenswear independents and small brands feel that more can be done to support their industry, which is why a group of childrenswear businesses have launched the #MakingMatters campaign. You can read more about the campaign and what triggered its conception in our Open for Business opinion piece on page 11, but essentially, the initiative’s aim is to create a forum for discussion; to inform the consumer about why items from an independent retailer

Editor Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Contributors Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Editorial assistant Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com Designers Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com Sales executive Michele Ali michele@ras-publishing.com Subscriptions data@ras-publishing.com Head of childrenswear Lindsay Hoyes lindsay@ras-publishing.com Editorial director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk Reprographics/printing Image Data Group Ltd 01482 652323

CWB is published 6 times per year by ITE Moda Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 cwb-online.co Copyright© 2017 CWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither ITE Moda Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

or small brand cost more, what the manufacturing process is and the implications of discounting for a small business. If you want to join the conversation, search for #MakingMatters on social media and get involved. Sticking with the topic of supporting independent business, CWB will be playing its own small part in championing the industry with the launch of the third annual CWB Independent Retail Awards this month. The awards are our way of providing a platform to promote and celebrate everything that makes a great independent retailer. It’s free to enter and you’ll find everything you need to do so at cwb-online.co; simply choose your award category and fill in the online application form. As you may have noticed from the new website address above, CWB recently unveiled a brand new website, cwb-online.co. Mobile responsive and offering easier navigation, the new site brings daily updates from the childrenswear industry across retail, fashion, business and schoolwear. And, if you don’t already follow us on social media, check out CWB’s Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest, where you’ll find even more exclusive content and industry insight. In the meantime, I hope you enjoy the June/July issue. Laura Turner Editor

CWB is a joint venture between RAS Publishing and the National Childrenswear Association.

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication CWB is a fashion business publication produced by ITE Moda Ltd. Other titles include WWB and MWB. ITE Moda Ltd is an ITE Group company.

JUNE/JULY 2017 - 05

CWB-ONLINE.CO | NEWS

CWB NEWS: BOBUX LAUNCHES CUSTOM KICKS

START-RITE SHOES UNVEILS NEW HQ To mark its 225th anniversary, Start-rite Shoes has given its Norwich office headquarters a makeover, transforming it into a state of the art design facility. Reflecting the company’s design heritage, the new offices provide a modern and open plan workspace for the 80 employees based there. The work involved the internal refurbishment of the reception area, showroom and general office area. Air conditioning and contemporary lighting have made the office a comfortable work environment where employees can thrive. The result is a more inclusive and dynamic environment, designed to enable greater collaborative working across teams as well as bringing wellbeing benefits, including improved staff satisfaction, motivation and morale. —

FRODDO STEPS IT UP FOR S/S 18 This season sees Froddo add innovative new styles, leather finishes and details to its children’s footwear collection for boys and girls. S/s 18 highlights include flower prints, baby pink and blue patent, a new lime green colourway and a large selection of vintage gold and silver styles. New finishes include a silver spotty design on a lilac background, multicoloured snakeskin effect and on-trend tropical prints, while new trim details include gathered leather and flowers. New design fashion outsoles in white and blue are also available in selected ranges. Froddo’s s/s 18 collection will launch at this season’s Bubble London and will also be available to view at Moda, which takes place in August at the NEC, Birmingham. — 06 - JUNE/JULY 2017

Bobux has launched a limited-edition, unisex leather trainer, which comes with a set of wipe-off pens to allow children to colour them in. For a limited time only, and available exclusively in the Kid+ range, the new Custom shoes feature a coated leather upper screenprinted with a character illustration created by Bobux’s footwear designer, Audi Siregar. Each pair of Custom shoes comes with a set of five water based felt pens – orange, yellow, green, blue and pink – along with a reusable white pen pouch. Crayola Washable crayons are also suitable to use on the trainers. —

BE INSPIRED AT BUBBLE LONDON Children’s trade event Bubble London will return to the BDC, Islington, on 16-17 July with an extensive programme of new and regular features. Amid the new is an inspiring interiors area containing an installation by children’s furniture and lifestyle brand Bunny & Clyde (pictured) in conjunction with Absolutely Mama magazine and a new homeware collection by family members’ club Maggie & Rose. Other original features include children’s music workshops and live portrait painting by creative agency Buttercrumble. Back by popular demand is a new and improved Stand Out Competition to recognise Bubble’s most creative, effective and welldesigned stand, the winner of which receives a season-long trade marketing package. Other welcome returns include We’ve got Chemistry, Bubble’s showcase of collaborations between kids’ brands. S/s 18 includes Pearl Lowe and Selfish Mother, Anorak Magazine and Made.com and Iglo + Indi and Care Bears. The Rising Star competition, a firm fixture of the event, will seek out this season’s best launch brand at Bubble, while Perfect Pitch – presented in a new panel style – will see the show’s most exciting new designers pitch their brands. Leo Bamford of My Baba will also be fronting the Green Ambassador campaign once again, championing Bubble’s eco-friendly and organic brands. Finally, the Look Who’s Talking seminar programme will cover business-enhancing topics such as how to grow fans through your branding and how to get online retailing right first time as well as offering buyers’ panel discussions and trend forecasts. For more information on Bubble London or to register as a visitor visit bubblelondon.com. —

BIBI LAUNCHES INTO UK AND EUROPE Brazilian children’s footwear brand Bibi is making its Bubble London debut for s/s 18 as it launches in the UK and across Europe. Founded in 1949, Bibi was one of the first Brazilian footwear brands to create shoes specifically for children and to have been approved by the Brazilian Association of Foot and Ankle Medicine and Surgery. The brand, which creates shoes for different stages of children’s foot development combining orthopaedic research with a fashion-forward range of styles, has focused on three key trends for s/s 18: Tropikids, Rock n’ Roll and a Futurist theme featuring monochromatic looks, contrast linings and neon shades. —

MINIJAMMIES’ DREAMY NEW COLLECTION Children’s sleepwear brand Minijammies by Cyberjammies has unveiled its latest collection for s/s 18, offering fun, comfortable and timeless nightwear. Key for girls includes exotic and tropical influences in pretty yet bold colours, including a cactus print and flamingo design. For boys the focus is on little heroes, including a battling knight design with castles, armour, shields and dragons. For the more modern adventurer, there is a flying theme, which uses a mix of iconic airborne imagery. Across all of Minijammies ranges there is the option to match with mum or dad. The new collection, which uses 100 per cent cotton as well as blends of cotton/modal and cotton/lyocell, will be available to view at this season’s Bubble London. —

NEWS | CWB-ONLINE.CO

FINANCIAL BOOST FOR MORI

FUNDING FOR FASHION SMES Consulting service Global Fashion Management has made a £50,000 fund available to subsidise initiatives that help fashion SMEs thrive and move to the next level. The programme is funded and carried out in conjunction with CEO Mentoring (CEOM), a global player in mentoring services, which provides mentors and subject matter experts to SMEs through its global network. The funding programme covers an initial session with CEOM, free of charge, to gauge the current position of the fashion SME and help it define a programme going forward that may include incorporating a CEOM mentor in confidence to the CEO, or a subject matter expert in an area of weakness, or a combination of both. Priority will be given to SMEs pursuing growth and looking to enhance international operations. For further details, email funding@globalfashionmanagement.com. —

Organic baby brand Mori has raised £2m in funding through backing by global retail and tech investors, Jobi Capital and Kalrock Ventures. The funding will go towards significant brand development, namely multiplying the customer base, launching new products and services, and branching into the US. Since launching in 2015, Mori has expanded rapidly. Today, the brand boasts more than 10,000 customers in over 50 countries. Established by Akin Onal and Cam Miller, the brand combines quality and innovative clothing with the latest technology and a direct-toconsumer business model, with the primary aim of helping babies sleep better. According to research company Crunchbase, over the past two years, start-ups with baby and toddler-focused business models have raised more than $260m in seed and venture funding in the USA. —

NEW UK DISTRIBUTOR FOR BABIATORS Independent retailer Natural Baby Shower, which specialises in organic and eco-friendly clothes, bedding, toys and toiletries for babies and mums to be, is now the UK distributor of US babies’ and children’s sunglasses brand Babiators. Babiators sunglasses are lightweight, soft, flexible and virtually indestructible, with impactand shatter-resistant UV400 lenses offering 100 per cent UVA and UVB protection. Babiators joins Merino Kids and Finn + Emma as the brands available wholesale via Natural Baby Shower. —

RACHEL RILEY TO LAUNCH HOME COLLECTION Award-winning childrenswear designer Rachel Riley and Textrade International, one of India’s leading home textile manufacturers and international distributors, have signed a licensing agreement for the Rachel Riley Home Collection. Designed by Riley, the collection will be showcased at this season’s Bubble London and will be available to buy from retail in January 2018. The initial launch will feature a range of products, including bedding for all ages, produced in Textrade’s state-of-the-art facility, which already manufactures a comprehensive offering spanning bedding through to homewares. Textrade has a strong sales and marketing team covering Europe, South East Asia and all other relevant global markets. In the USA, it has a wholly owned subsidiary, Textrade Inc, with a showroom in New York. —

NEWS IN BRIEF

FORIVOR’S DEBUT NIGHTWEAR COLLECTION

PIGEON EXPANDS COLLECTION

Children’s interiors brand Forivor has launched its first nightwear collection. Inspired by its award-winning heirloom bedding, the nightwear incorporates delicate prints and ruffles and is produced in organic cottons. The debut collection includes the Tumbling Pegasus Jumpsuit in the brand’s signature Enchanted Forest design. This relaxed fit garment buttons up the front and is produced in organic cotton satin. Meanwhile, the Forivorland nightdress and jumpsuit have printed ruffles with hand illustrated motifs, matching the collars with the mythical creatures featured on Forivor’s bedding. Completing the offer is the unisex Enchanted Forest Pyjamas, made from jersey and adorned with a bold, all-over leafy print. —

Childrenswear brand Pigeon is launching its largest seasonal collection for s/s 18 with an increased size range of 0-8 years. The GOTs certified organic cotton collection features newly commissioned prints including llamas, cacti, swimmers, cyclists, campervans and dots, alongside classic summer looks including Breton stripes and plains. Key styles include reversible dresses with prints on one side and embroidery on the other, lightweight jersey shirts, shorts, chinos, pointelle cardigans and a wide selection of printed and striped baby rompers in jersey cotton. —

— Catherine Watts of the University of Salford has won this year’s Graduate Fashion Week Mothercare Childrenswear Award for her original and imaginative designs celebrating the whimsical nostalgia of the travelling world. The award saw Watts receive £1,000, a placement with Mothercare and at least one piece of her collection manufactured and sold in stores.

— Natural infant skincare brand Kokoso Baby is launching two new baby washes to complement its popular organic coconut oil for infants. Founders Lauren and Mark Taylor used investment from Dragons’ Den’s Touker Suleyman to develop the fragrance-free and softly scented baby washes.

— Award-winning baby and children’s safety swimwear brand Konfidence has promoted Max Patey to the role of national sales manager after over-seeing a sales increase of over 35 per cent in the first half of 2017. In his new role, Patey takes on responsibility for the company’s growing portfolio of key retail and B2B customers.

JUNE/JULY 2017 - 07

CWB-ONLINE.CO | NCWA NEWS

NCWA NEWS: The latest news from the National Childrenswear Association EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S COMMENT We have recently been exhorted to take a ‘glass half full’ attitude towards Brexit, viewing it as an opportunity, rather than as a threat. I am sure that that is the best way of responding to the result of the EU Referendum last year and the Brexit negotiations just beginning. While we may all be in the dark as to the outcome of the negotiations, or indeed as to the policy to be adopted by HM Government, there will be opportunities to expand trade in different directions. Do not forget to let me know what your post Brexit priorities are. I am sure that customs tariffs will figure high among them, whether you import, export or both. Access to skilled manufacturing personnel may also be important to you. We need too to know what the regulatory framework under which companies and traders operate will be. This includes rules on protecting intellectual property, chemical policy and standards, to name but three. The summer edition of Bubble London will soon be upon us, on 16 and 17 July at the Business Design Centre in Islington, London N1. Whether you are a manufacturer/supplier, a retailer or agent, you need to visit it. As a retailer, you need to see what your competitors might be buying, and, therefore, selling in their shops, to check on latest trends and fashions and – even if you normally place your orders through agents away from the show – to see whether there is a new brand that you might consider stocking. As a manufacturer/ supplier, you also need to know what your competitors might be offering, as well as pondering whether exhibiting would be a good thing for you in order to find new customers and increase your profile. As an agent, you might find a new range to carry, as well as keeping yourself up to date with all that is going on in such a vibrant industry. Before you visit Bubble London, look at the two videos on the NCWA website for those visiting and for those exhibiting at a trade show. Presented by NCWA Vice President Jackie Cook, the videos, ‘How to Exhibit at a Trade Show’ and ‘How to Walk a Trade Show’, are short and to the point, but contain a wealth of information on how you should prepare for both roles and what you should seek to achieve. To watch them, visit the NCWA website – www.ncwa.co.uk – and click on ‘Videos’. They can be viewed by members and nonmembers alike. Finally, come to the NCWA stand and tell me about your Brexit priorities and indeed anything that you think NCWA should be arguing for with the Government. Michelle Payne and I will be delighted to see you. Our welcome extends to non-members too, as we should appreciate the opportunity to talk about what NCWA membership can offer you. If you are not a member of NCWA, you can join online, www.ncwa.co.uk, or speak to Michelle Payne in the NCWA office, 020 7843 9488, or e-mail info@ncwa.co.uk. Details on all that NCWA does and offers can also be found on our website and membership starts at £95+VAT per annum. Elizabeth P Fox

NCWA Council: Chairman: DAVID HULL Agent Vice Chairman: VIRGINIA ROSS Pollyanna Retailer Imm Past Chairman: SHARON BEARDSWORTH Emile et Rose Manufacturer Treasurer: DAVID BURGESS David Luke Ltd Manufacturer

Executive Director: ELIZABETH FOX

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www.panachekids.co.uk North London based footwear store Panache opened its doors in 1978, initially only selling ladies’ shoes. In 1992 the store expanded into the childrenswear market, with a focus on providing high quality footwear for kids. In 2005, the store started stocking children’s apparel, paying attention in particular to Spanish labels. Now offering a vast selection of brands from around the world, the store stocks the likes of Little Darlings, Bluebird Baby, Rap, Billieblush, Country Kids and Little Eleven Paris, as well as its own label, Panache.

KIDDIEWEAR 3 Quarry Place, Hamilton, South Lanarkshire Stocking clothes, wooden toys and gifts, Kiddiewear has been established at its premises in Hamilton for over 40 years. Offering clothing for children up to six years old, the store provides christening clothing from Sarah Louise, footwear from Daisy Roots and hats from Satila. Clothing brands include Mayoral, Emile et Rose, Tutto Piccolo, Dodipetto, Dani and Beauty & the Bib. In toys, the store stocks a selection from Kaloo, Gund, Le Toy Van and standout items such as a wooden tool box from Indigo Jamm.

Make your voice heard

Council Members: MARK BARNETT Barnett Agencies Agent NUALA MCKENNA Nuala McKenna Agencies Agent DIANE SHAW Agent SARAH TAYLOR Agent MALCOLM TRAVIS Travis Designs Manufacturer RACHEL RILEY Rachel Riley Manufacturer JILLIAN PETRIE Young Trend Retailer DAVID PARKER Baby Melanie Retailer President: KEN SCATES Marketing consultant Vice Presidents: LESLEY FALLON Retail consultant JACKIE COOK Retail consultant

PANACHE KIDS

• Membership is open to everyone involved in the British childrenswear industry.

Read our blog and follow us on Twitter

• Associate membership, open to non-British organisations, is now available. • Membership costs from £95.

NCWA NEWS | CWB-ONLINE.CO

LILLY + SID BLOOMS FOR S/S 18

ZUMA PROVES A TOP READ

Titled English Country Garden, the new s/s 18 collection from childrenswear brand Lilly + Sid draws inspiration from summer days in the countryside. Highlights include timeless, vintage details – from 60s collars and pattern cutting through to 70s homespun motifs – which are combined with contemporary shapes. Elsewhere, wildlife motifs appear in prints, embroideries and appliqués, as well as hiding in pockets and linings. Embellishment continues with a handcrafted feel in smocking, appliqué and embroidered styles. Flora and fauna influences can be found in butterflies and bugs, while pond fishing references provide an alternative twist on nautical styling. New for 2018 are ‘basics with a twist’: layering pieces in the brand’s signature style designed to provide modern wardrobe staples. —

Zuma the Dog: The Dinosaur Guy, the latest book from childrenswear brand Zuma the Dog, has been listed in The Best Children’s Books of 2017 compiled by private tutor provider, Tutora. Ninety books feature on the list, which is based on the recommendations of hundreds of book providers, authors, illustrators and independent book stores and aims to encourage parents and children to explore new opportunities for reading. “I was stunned to receive the news my book had been nominated,” says Zuma the Dog founder, Samantha Morgan-Bertish. “I’m honoured it is being so well received and it’s amazing to be included on this list with such acclaimed authors as Julia Donaldson and Philip Pullman.” —

FRUGI LAUNCHES TINY BABY RANGE This November marks the launch of My First Frugi, a new collection of 100 per cent GOTScertified organic and ethical clothing designed for babies’ first few months from childrenswear brand, Frugi. Available in five sizes – Tiny Baby (5-6lbs), Newborn (6-7lbs), 0-3 months, 3-6 months and 6-12 months – the range is distinctly different to Frugi’s current clothing collection, using a subtle and delicate colour palette and smaller scale prints and appliqués. Key Items in the range include the Kynance Kimono, a lighter weight brushback two-piece set with front kimono fastening for easy changing; the Giggling Gift Set, comprising a footed romper, printed long sleeve body with integral scratch mitts and matching hat, muslin dungarees, a reversible cardigan, babygros, muslin swaddles and a hooded blanket. —

LITTLE LORD & LADY’S US LAUNCH Following the positive reception to its first two collections in the UK and Europe, Little Lord & Lady is launching in the USA exclusively with new online designer childrenswear store, Wilshire +Cooper. Established in April, US-based Wilshire+Cooper offers a curated one-stop shop for international childrenswear labels that are new to the US market. The store has quickly gained traction, with a promotional campaign seeing it achieve over 150,000 followers prior to its launch. Offering a strong synergy with Wilshire +Cooper’s mission, Little Lord & Lady offers childrenswear inspired by traditional, British style. Seasonal collections feature unique prints including bicycles, pocket watches and flowers, while the brand’s signature London print runs throughout the seasons and collections. —

NEWS IN BRIEF

IT’S ALL IN THE DETAIL ADVENTURE IS IN THE AIR FOR KITE CLOTHING The s/s 18 collection from childrenswear brand Kite has launched with a focus on new styles and fabrics combined with thoughtful designs. Inspired by the brand’s Dorset surroundings, the collection reflects what adventuring really means to children, from making dens to paddling in the sea. New items include Puddlepack jackets and suits, which enable children to stay outside whatever the weather. Meanwhile, an extended beachwear offer includes UV sun suits and hats and beach cover-ups. A focus on fabrics delivers everything from broderie and seersucker stripes through to summer-ready crinkle cotton, while a new colour palette offers pops and pastels. —

— NCWA agent Sarah Taylor is the new UK agent for Kate Mack in the Midlands and North of England. Renowned for its whimsical and romantic girlswear, Kate Mack caters for 9 months to 16 years. Other childrenswear brands represented by Taylor are Maelie by Rubacuori and Mayoral.

Tiny details are the focus of the new season’s collection from babywear specialist Emile et Rose. For girls, these include tiny 3D flowers, which provide extra dimension to floral prints, and 3D embroidered butterflies. For boys, automobiles are the motif of choice, with vintage-style embroidered cars appearing on an all-in-one romper and elsewhere, printed or embroidered on fine gauge cotton knitwear. New s/s 18 gift sets also feature, comprising cotton jersey booties and mittens presented in an organza bag, which match the new pull-on baby hats and cuddly blankets as well as the all-inones in white, pink, blue and grey. —

— Online designer childrenswear retailer Childrensalon has launched an official outlet site named Petit Outlet. Marking a new chapter in Childrensalon’s progress, Petit Outlet offers the best of ‘out-of-season’ products as well as individual designer collections sourced directly from the world’s biggest brands. Petit Outlet hosts a number of curations, including separate sections offering garments for baby, girl and boy, as well as a dedicated area to shoes.

— NCWA will again be in attendance at this season’s Bubble London, which takes place on 16-17 July at the Business Design Centre, Islington. Buyers and exhibitors can visit the stand to meet the NCWA team and discover more about the benefits of membership.

JUNE/JULY 2017 - 09

CWB-ONLINE.CO | BUSINESS

Open for business Bringing you straight-talking legal and business advice. — STEPHEN SIDKIN Partner in Fox Williams LLP

GEORGES BERZGAL Vice president for Europe at Pitney Bowes Ecommerce

www.agentlaw.co.uk www.fashionlaw.co.uk

www.pitneybowes.com/uk

WHEN CAN YOU RELY ON WHAT IS NOT IN THE CONTRACT? It is when a relationship is not going well that lawyers are asked, “What can be done?” It is at that point that lawyers try to be creative and look at the words written in the distributorship, agency, or other commercial agreement and consider whether any terms can be implied which may help the client achieve its objectives. But a recent Court of Appeal case concerning a dispute between a distributor and a supplier shows the risk that parties run when trying to rely on implied terms in their agreements. In 2000 the supplier and distributor entered into a distributorship agreement for the distribution of the supplier’s products. Some 10 years later the supplier requested that the distributor implement a strategic plan up to the end of 2013 (rather than for one year as anticipated in the agreement). This was followed in 2011/12 by the supplier requiring that the second claimant be set up as a subsidiary company specifically to replace the distributor or, at least, to improve the service offered by the distributor. A further business plan was agreed which was to run for five years to 2015. This required the now two distributors to make long term investments in their business. They invested some £6.37m in implementing these plans. According to the distributors, these requirements amounted to an agreed variation of the distributorship agreement. Despite the business plans, involvement of the second distributor, and investments made by the distributors, the supplier was still dissatisfied by the distributors’ performance. Accordingly in September 2012 the supplier gave notice of termination under the terms of the distributorship agreement to take effect in March 2013. Before the court the distributors claimed that: (i) the agreement to add the second claimant as a distributor and implement the business plan further impliedly varied the agreement by conduct so that notice to terminate could not be given to take effect before the end of 2015; and (ii) the termination was in breach of an implied duty of good faith and fair dealing. The Appeal Court dismissed each claim of the distributors. The Court considered whether a term could be implied that notice to terminate could not take effect before the end of 2015. The Court looked at: (i) whether adding the second distributor together with the business plans was inconsistent with the Supplier being able to terminate before the end of 2015; and (ii) whether the parties’ conduct (that is varying the agreement) was consistent only with such an implied term. For example, if the parties would or might have acted in the same way without the implied term, then it is unlikely to be necessary to imply the term. Following this, the Court concluded that it was not necessary to imply such a term. Furthermore, because there had been no discussion about altering the termination provisions, the Court held that it would be impossible to know what the terms of any new termination provisions would have been. On the good faith issue, the distributors sought to rely on an earlier High Court decision where it was decided that a duty of good faith could be implied into commercial agreements. However, the Appeal Court did not consider the earlier High Court judgment to be applicable as the present case concerned termination (where parties are generally in conflict), rather than the performance of the contract (where parties would be expected to co-operate for the agreement to operate effectively). As economic, if not political, uncertainty is likely to be with us for at least some time to come, the answers are clear: • Consider what it is you need the other party to the agreement to do and make sure that it is stated. • Consider what might go wrong during the performance of the agreement by the other party and the effect which it could have. • Work on the basis that it is usually the case that the more that is included in an agreement, the better. • Ensure changes are properly documented. © 2017 Fox Williams LLP

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MAXIMISING REVENUE THROUGH EFFECTIVE STOCK MANAGEMENT ACROSS BORDERS AND SEASONS In the past, retailers with unsold stock would likely put that stock up in the end of season sale, discounted until it is sold. Today, their options for selling off excess stock can be more imaginative. Many retailers today set up flash sales sites or clearance type events, but another option, with a lot of potential, is to sell cross-border. Always summer somewhere Today, British shoppers find it almost as straightforward to buy from a retailer in Australia as from one in the UK – as long as that retailer enables delivery, payment in sterling and low customs duties. The same is true when travelling in the other direction. Online retailer MySale, for instance, built its flash sales business by selling against the season’s surplus or end-of-season stock from European and American fashion brands into the Australian market. This strategy not only allows for more full-price and profitable sales, rather than selling goods at cost or even at a loss, but also offers an export opportunity to reach a far wider audience. Nonetheless, there are challenges that need to be dealt with, including making the right buying decisions. End-of-season items from the UK will not always be on trend down under, for example. Unless brands are buying for that kind of dual season approach, by the end of the season they may end up having to mark-down the inventories in both regions. Another key challenge lies in localising the customer experience and logistics. Most international retailers, ASOS for example, now sell through country-specific websites, which include local language, currency and payment options, as well as free worldwide delivery (above a certain spending threshold), supported by warehouses in different continents. However, the key is to localise strategic elements, which doesn’t necessarily need to involve raising individual web shops for each market, but to use new solutions that overlay on the main site. The use of the latest technology and establishment of smart partnerships offers retailers a huge potential growth opportunity for stock management, with a relatively low upfront investment.

BUSINESS | CWB-ONLINE.CO

Three industry experts discuss the impact of Brexit and the rise of the #MakingMatters campaign. —

NICOLA EYRE Founder of Cissy Wears, London SE13

Tell us about the #MakingMatters campaign and what it aims to achieve. Making Matters was coined by fellow retailer Bon Tot. We had received an email from a company trying to encourage the start of an additional Black Friday style annual event. Although I understood their thought process behind it, it just seemed to me to be shooting ourselves in the foot. Discount culture is killing our industry, devaluing brands, and driving an unhealthy appetite for consumption. It just seemed to me that we should be trying to collectively stem this, not encourage it. I hit reply all and started a dialogue with retailers all around the world. And it turned out everybody felt the same. We wanted to educate the consumer about why things cost more from an indie retailer or small brand, about what the manufacturing process is, the costs borne by child labour and the environment, and what the real life implications are of discounting for a small business. How can others support the campaign? We’ve been able to talk to customers and get them thinking about their actions, and people’s attitudes are changing. One chose to purchase books from me instead of Amazon as she realised she was guilty of using Instagram to shop small companies and buy cheaper elsewhere. One told me their Facebook group had realised their chasing of discounts had inadvertently contributed to the closing down of a 10 year-old independent store (Yellow Lolly) that they all adored. But not only is it about talking to the consumer, it’s also creating a feeling of solidarity among small independent retailers and brands, and offering a forum for discussion. What other challenges do you feel specifically affect the childrenswear sector? Although we’ve only been going five years this year, in that short time I’ve seen huge changes in the market. The seasons are all over the place and seem to be trying to follow the department store pattern. Summer goods in January that we can’t sell, on sale before the sun even starts shining and heavy knitwear in July before the summer holidays start.

ALIENOR FALCONER Founder of childrenswear brand The Bright Company

How do you feel Brexit is affecting independent UK retail? What physical changes are you seeing to the industry? Brexit had an immediate effect on costs for all imports. Whether retailers are buying from within the EU or outside, the cost of all products went up overnight due to the fall in the pound. Ongoing retailers will have to either put prices up or squeeze the supply chains. The worry there is that retailers who already buy with very tight margins will squeeze their suppliers even harder and we will see more tragedies such as the Rana Plaza building collapse in Bangladesh in 2013. What other challenges do you feel specifically affect the childrenswear sector? I believe that the rise in fast fashion has infiltrated all corners of the clothing industry. People aren’t buying investment clothing in the same way that we used to. Children have massive wardrobes with huge choices of what to wear vs one party dress, one skirt etc. As Brexit pushes prices up, throughout the industry customers are going to have to readjust. Perhaps it will encourage people to buy less but buy better and we will see working conditions in factories massively improve as a result. How can others support the campaign? We can keep talking about it openly, and keep being honest with our customers about the true cost of garments. Customers have forgotten, or simply just don’t understand how a garment is costed and how it isn’t possible to make clothing for £5. It’s convenient to put it out of our minds and to just buy things anyway; it’s the way we are programmed. Everywhere we look people are encouraging us to buy things, no matter what the consequences are.

KRISTINA CURRIE Founder of Bon Tot, Edinburgh

Tell us about the #MakingMatters campaign and what it aims to achieve. The specific incident that triggered this was the suggestion of creating a second Black Friday for spring. It reminded us that the story behind each brand, the reason we are in independent retail, is being forgotten. We are all here because we value the people and the process behind the clothing. We don’t want throwaway fast fashion. That’s what the high street provides, along with the deep discounts. So it felt like the two cultures were being mixed together when in fact they are very different from each other. Who is the campaign aimed at? Retailers, consumers and brands. It’s really for everyone in the industry. It’s a similar message to the campaign #whomademyclothes, which is an opportunity for retailers and brands to highlight the traceability of what they sell. How do you feel Brexit is affecting independent UK retail? Brexit has been terrible for independent UK retail. Most of that is down to the immediate effect of the pound losing value. Across the board we’ve seen around a 20 per cent increase in costs in products. What other challenges do you feel specifically affect the childrenswear sector? I think due to price increases it’s encouraging the discount culture we are fighting against with #makingmatters. Creating this kind of culture in this specific industry could end it. It is about quality items that last, that benefit everyone in the process. So if the price increases change the message from quality and sustainability to ‘discount’ it will try to compete with the thing it was built against: the high street. What’s the next step for the #MakingMatters movement? It’s a work in progress and seeing as it’s buying season, there will be a lot of dialogue with the brands to discuss how we can all make sure the industry is moving in the right direction. I’d like to see #makingmatters a regular topic of conversation, because we totally believe it is why we are here, in this industry. JUNE/JULY 2017 - 11

CWB-ONLINE.CO | CWB RETAIL AWARDS

nt Independe REtail Awards

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CELEBRATING INDEPENDENT CHILDRENSWEAR RETAIL CWB Independent Retail Awards 2017 This year marks the third annual CWB Independent Retail Awards, recognising performance and innovation across the childrenswear sector and providing a platform from which to reward excellence in childrenswear stores both old and new. Winners will be chosen by an industry judging panel selected by and including CWB editor Laura Turner, and announced in December. “I am delighted to embark on the third round of CWB Independent Retail Awards CURIOUS ORANJ following the success of the previous years’,” says Turner. “In a time where independent retail is facing so many challenges, not least the uncertainty of Brexit, we hope these industry awards will play some small part in supporting childrenswear independents, flagging up the talent, creativity and innovation that goes into this sector. “I cannot wait to see this year’s line-up of wonderful retailers take their crowns and receive the commendation they deserve.” As well as the prestige of being crowned the best in childrenswear retail, the winners will receive a comprehensive store marketing package and dedicated coverage in CWB magazine, both in print and digitally.

CLOSING DATE FOR ENTRIES: 29 SEPTEMBER 2017 FOR AN ENTRY FORM VISIT CWB-ONLINE.CO 12 - JUNE/JULY 2017

Independent retailers across the UK are invited to nominate their stores for the following categories: BEST KIDS’ INDEPENDENT STORE

Sponsored by:

Winner

in association with CWB Magazine. #wearthecrown

LONDON

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CWB-ONLINE.CO | INTERVIEW

A DANISH DELIGHT Last season, Danish childrenswear label MarMar Copenhagen made its UK debut at Bubble London, turning buyers’ heads with its impeccable mix of Never Out Of Stock core basics and contemporary seasonal designs. In light of the brand’s 10th anniversary and its return to Bubble for s/s 18, Laura Turner speaks to the company’s founder and head designer, Marlene Anine Holmboe, to learn more. —

Laura Turner: Can you tell me the story of how MarMar Copenhagen began and what your motivation was for creating the brand? Marlene Anine Holmboe: Having designed both womenswear and kidswear for other brands, I decided to start one of my own, one rooted in the Danish design tradition of functionality and strong materials. My incentive was to make beautiful and classic children’s fashion with a touch of quirkiness. I launched my first collection for s/s 08 – that was 10 years ago. LT: You mention you designed for other brands before launching your own – can you tell me more about your design background? MAH: Before I began my working career I studied at the Royal Danish Academy of Design, majoring in fashion. After that, I began designing womenswear and kidswear for leading Danish brands. LT: What does the MarMar Copenhagen collection comprise? MAH: Firstly, it’s a brand for both boys and girls, from newborn to 16 years of age. We have a large NOOS (Never Out Of Stock) range, which makes up the core of every MarMar Copenhagen collection. It encompasses our basic modal, denim, leopard print and technical outerwear plus a lot more and, as the name suggests, the NOOS range is always available and stays the same as the seasons change. The seasonal collection, of which we do two per year, is made up of cool, everyday styles and those ‘peacock’ designs intended to catch your eye and capture your heart. Every season my design objective is to build a collection covering a child´s complete wardrobe. LT: In your own words, how would you summarise the brand’s look? MAH: Classic with a quirky touch. I do have signature designs that I never tire of, like our 20 - JUNE/JULY 2017

INTERVIEW | CWB-ONLINE.CO

original brown leopard leggings that still seem to go with everything. The brand is all about design and making cool and beautiful prints and styles, while having fun. LT: Where do you source your design inspiration from? MAH: Primarily from books, old movies and photographs. However, every collection does have hints of circuses from the past, be it in stripes, bows or something else. LT: As a brand owner, what is your stance on social responsibility and environmental awareness? MAH: I care deeply about treating the world around me with respect. Ultimately, I believe in giving back more than you take, environmentally and in every other way. When it comes to my business, it has always been my ambition for it to make sense in every aspect – for my team, our production partners, our stockists, the end consumers, the environment, for my family and for me, personally. One of the ways it makes sense in every part of the chain is with our NOOS basics range. Ensuring we have clothes that are always available allows shops carrying MarMar Copenhagen to only buy what they need to, when they need to. It also means our production facilities have continuous work and it allows our customers to build a base of trusted MarMar Copenhagen favourites. LT: Who is the core MarMar Copenhagen customer? MAH: A lot of them are parents who care about the design and the effort that goes into the brand. Subsequently, our high quality means we hear lots of fond stories from customers about passing down their MarMar Copenhagen pieces, which is something that makes us very happy to hear and see. LT: And your target stockists? MAH: Our retailers – and any future retailers

– are people who know their market and choose to offer it MarMar Copenhagen. We have always cared more about quality over quantity; being in the right stores with people who love MarMar Copenhagen just as much as we do. LT: Bubble London appears to have been a great platform for the brand’s UK launch last season; how do you think it went? MAH: Bubble was a great experience. Our UK agents, London based Breitenstein Agencies, represented us at the fair and met a lot of lovely people. It was a busy couple of days, which are obviously the best kind of days at a trade fair. We’re back at Bubble this season to show our s/s 18 collection. LT: What can we expect from MarMar Copenhagen for s/s 18? MAH: We’re so excited about the new collection. It’s our 10 year anniversary and it felt natural for the inspiration for the season be travelling and celebration. We went on an imaginary nautical journey around the world over the past 10 years. In the collection we go ashore in different locations and re-examine past collections, letting inspiration sweep over us like ocean waves. Prints reflect just that, revisiting favourites from seasons past, which we’ve combined with Japanese wood carvings, Morse code and all things related to life at sea. Colours, too, are inspired by hues of the water

and the sky above. These are then mixed with delicate tones of blooming cherry trees, rosy cheeks and muted tones of clay and sand. In terms of what’s new this season, we have technical summer outerwear and also some beautiful swimwear. The wholesale price range for the collection is £10-£140. LT: How many accounts does the brand have and where? MAH: MarMar Copenhagen is already retailed all around the world, with Scandinavia being our strongest market. Ideally, we would love to be as well represented all over the world as we are in Scandinavia, with equally wonderful retailers. LT: Over the last 10 years, how have consumer demands and tastes for childrenswear changed? MAH: Our consumers are generally very well informed and continue to build upon this. They’re becoming more and more socially and environmentally aware, as well as being more interested in design, wearability and uniqueness of the childrenswear they buy. LT: What are your short and long-term plans for the brand? MAH: Short term, the plan is definitely to have a great season. Long term, I plan for MarMar Copenhagen to be at least as relevant in 10 years’ time, as it is today. JUNE/JULY 2017 - 21

CWB-ONLINE.CO | BUSINESS

SHAPING THE FUTURE OF CHILDREN’S FOOTWEAR DESIGN Claire Russell, head of design at Start-rite Shoes, explains how looking to alternative industries, including military, policing, safety and sports, can provide a vital source of inspiration and innovation for children’s footwear design. —

Fashion is, by definition, innovative. Pervading technology, new textiles, modern manufacturing methods and creative minds all ensure that fashion never stands still. The fashion industry abounds with creative people at the forefront of design and innovation, constantly exciting the industry. Each season brings new styles and changing demands. There are, then, direct parallels between fashion and children. They both never stop, always develop. They are both fast paced, relentless. Children are constantly growing and exploring and consequently, their footwear needs are continually changing, whether through ever-growing little feet, or through shoes destroyed through exuberant play. The cost of buying and replacing children’s shoes quickly adds up, which is not ideal for parents, or indeed, the brand. And yet, to my mind, children’s footwear can often be left by the wayside when it comes to innovative design. Buyers need brands that can be trusted and styles that are perceived as being quality and durable. Designers must now seek influences from outside the box in a bid to meet the customers’ changing needs and the demands of busy children. Through my 20 years in footwear fashion, with leading brands such as Dr Martens and Kickers, it’s clear to me that children’s footwear can and should, learn and apply lessons from many different industries – sports, safety, military and policing, to name but a few. The sports and safety footwear industries have always been at the leading edge of innovation and can provide much inspiration with regards to how they support, protect and enhance movement in the foot’s structure. In these industries, comfort, protection, ease of use and durability are top priorities. If we apply some of these principles to children’s footwear, especially during the foot’s developmental stages, shoes can nurture, 22 - JUNE/JULY 2017

support and protect the child as they grow. Shoes could potentially even allow greater growing room, which could increase brand loyalty as it will be perceived as a huge added bonus to parents. Another area of design is the soling on shoes. The sports and safety footwear industries again have a lot of best practice in this area. Together with rigorous biomechanics research, technologies in safety footwear can provide lightweight materials with durable qualities, whilst research into running shoes can implement more flexible, structural designs that are perfect for the different stages of the growing foot. Safety footwear also boasts innovative tread pattern designs, which can grip and adapt to different surfaces. Furthermore, upper leathers and materials can be pattern engineered to protect, support or flex on the relevant areas around the foot, whilst linings can be breathable and uppers can be waterproof or scuff-proof. Safety clothing and footwear is well known for using an innovative product called D3O, a soft, pliable material that goes hard on impact – commonly used in protective clothing at shin and elbow points, or to provide ankle support and protection. Children’s footwear fashion must look further afield, too. Industries such as mattress manufacturing can provide insight into the latest comfort technology, such as honeycomb cut, structural and breathable foam inserts for padded areas of the shoe, with the added advantage of being lightweight and ‘barely there’. We should also look to military footwear for innovation. Here, the soldiers themselves have adapted their footwear to be fit for purpose after being exposed to different types of terrain and use. Tank boots came about after extreme heat burnt off one soldier’s laces, so he took off his belt and wrapped it around the boot, making the boot easier to get on and off quickly. This ‘design’ was so efficient, it has since become standard issue. Soldiers on parade use all sorts of tricks to ensure a mirror-shine on their boots that is also long lasting and dirt-repellent – here, children’s footwear can find good inspiration for school shoes that stay shiny. Even police riot gear has useful

technologies, such as moulded met-guards and uppers or soling materials that can withstand high abrasion, which designers could look to adapt to protect small feet. Imagine an all-day comfort, all-protective, all-weather, all terrain, all-year school shoe, complete with growing room and the ability to stand up to daily scrapes on a bike or scooter. As a children’s footwear designer, my job is to design and develop premium quality children’s fitted footwear that strengthens our reputation and makes us a brand that all retailers want to stock. Success in our sector will come from putting the consumer central to our business to drive innovation and best in category product portfolios. Learning lessons from other industries and implementing exciting new technologies into products will be key to this. Those brands who achieve this will stay ahead of the crowd and be a buyer’s choice. www.startriteshoes.com

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CWB-ONLINE.CO | INTERVIEW

TROTTERS’ NEXT STEPS Laura Turner speaks to Sophie Mirman, co-founder of Trotters, about the company’s latest successes, and also to her son, William Ross, who is heading up the launch and wholesale strategy for Trotters’ own-label footwear brand, Hampton Canvas. —

Laura Turner: Trotters relocated its Kensington store to new premises in March. Why the move? Sophie Mirman: We wanted a shop that was bigger, brighter and better. An opportunity came up for us to relocate – literally a few doors down – so we jumped at it. So far, it has been a great success. LT: How many stores do you have in total? SM: We currently have six shops, five in London and one in Guildford, each with a hairdressing department aimed specifically at children up to the age of 10. We opened our first store in 1990 on the Kings Road, Chelsea. It was so exciting and new; it was the first store dedicated entirely to children, catering from top-to-toe, and selling 24 - JUNE/JULY 2017

beautifully designed children’s clothing, shoes, books and toys. We also have a transactional website from which we sell internationally. LT: Are there plans for more shops? SM: Actually, yes, we’re opening a new store in Oxford in October, which the team is very excited about. Otherwise, we’re concentrating our efforts on the website. LT: Could we ever see a Trotters store in the north? SM: Never say never. It took us a long time to build up our other stores after opening on the Kings Road. However, we are always looking at new opportunities and we do have a very wide web distribution with a lot of sales coming from the north.

LT: You mentioned a focus on the website – how is that performing? SM: Our website launched five years ago and has been growing steadily ever since. We manage all our stock centrally and so all of our distribution for the web is done internally. LT: How do your online sales compare to in-store? SM: The rate of growth in terms of our online sales is phenomenal. It is amazing to see the comparison between a widening online market and those who still enjoy coming in-store for the extra special Trotters experience. LT: What’s the foundation of Trotters’ successful business model? SM: An awful lot of hard work. We are

INTERVIEW | CWB-ONLINE.CO

constantly reinventing and improving what we do and it’s this relentless injection of enthusiasm that has enabled the company to become timeless in its appeal. LT: Do you feel the fact yours is a family business has also contributed to its success? SM: There are certainly many more pros than there are cons to having a family business. In any company there are challenges, but what gets you through is a team’s unity and belief in the brand. I’m very lucky to work with my family, we have an inherent unity and instil that within everything we do. LT: Talking of family – William, you are responsible for recently bringing Trotters’ Hampton Canvas own-label range of footwear to market. How were you involved in the business before now? William Ross: I grew up talking Trotters at the dining table and it’s always been a part of my life. School holidays were spent working in the stock room until I was eventually promoted to shop floor. Many of the staff I worked with are still with us today, so the business truly feels like an extension of my family. LT: What led to the launch of Hampton Canvas as a standalone brand? WR: It was already gathering a great deal of traction on its own through Trotters, with no marketing at all. We would regularly be approached by other retailers enquiring about wholesale and the potential was clear from the volume we were selling already. Furthermore, we believed these shoes would have an appeal to a wider audience than the Trotters customer alone, as proven by the sales of our range of adult sizes. LT: What does the Hampton Canvas collection comprise? WR: Our core range of Hampton Canvas lace-less plimsolls currently come in a choice of 11 colours for women and children in sizes EU24 to EU43. These include classics such as navy, rosa and white, but also seasonal colours, including watermelon, sunflower and sea blue and of course, our limited-edition Liberty of London floral pattern. The collection also includes our bestselling Nantucket and Martha styles in traditional navy, white, silver, and candy stripe pink and blue, in sizes EU19 to EU34. In

addition to these, we have recently introduced a new style, the Bellport, in navy, steel blue and grey (sizes EU24-35). LT: Who do you see as Hampton Canvas’s core customer? WR: Luckily, we know them very well as they shop at Trotters. They are mothers with young children looking for versatility and practicality without having to sacrifice quality, style and fun. Our shoes are lace-less slip-ons and they are machine washable, so the wearer is prepared for any eventuality. The brand has a classic, laid-back New England feel, hence the name. The outside of the shoes are unbranded and really do go anywhere and with anything. Many of our customers buy them for holidays as they are easy to fit into luggage, but also for weekends in the park or simply to wear on the way to work. They look great when dressed up with smart summer dresses or worn casually with shorts and T-shirts. LT: Where is Hampton Canvas produced? WR: The brand is designed in England and made in Spain. We work extremely closely with the factory – also a family business whose values mirror our own and who are a pleasure to visit – and every pair of shoes is handfinished using natural rubber and natural cotton canvas. LT: As well as an online store, Hampton Canvas will be available through pop-ups – where will these be? WR: I’m not allowed to tell you yet. We’ve been considering several different locations and events and have some exciting plans in the pipeline for the expansion of the brand. LT: What is your strategy for wholesale growth? WR: Hampton Canvas is in the unique position of already having an existing loyal following and a proven track record of sales in Trotters and online. When approaching the wholesale business, it will certainly be with this in mind. We would not want to expand at the expense of the brand or its existing business and will be targeting like-minded retailers who place an emphasis on quality. Potential buyers can view the collection online at or by appointment at our London showroom.

LT: Hampton Canvas is currently available for children and women – any chance of a men’s range? WR: It’s got to happen because everyone keeps asking me. Our children’s shoes are unisex and so it seems like a natural step, if you excuse the pun. LT: What’s your long-term vision for Hampton Canvas? WR: I have a firm belief in the brand and the product backed by existing sales. Its versatility lends itself to expansion into further products and styles and perhaps not just shoes… But for that, we’ll have to wait and see. LT: Going back to you, Sophie, do you have concerns over Brexit and how it could affect your business? SM: I do have concerns. There’s a lot of uncertainty related to currency fluctuation and the weak pound, which is alarming for any high street retailer. However, Trotters is a timeless brand with a very loyal customer who will always believe in the quality of our offering, whatever the weather. LT: As a retail pro, what are your top tips for a childrenswear start-up? SM: You have to have nerves of steel and to be resilient. Be prepared to pick yourself up, dust yourself down, shake yourself off and start again. The retail scene is immensely different to the way it was when we launched in the 90s. There are many factors, but the balance between technology and the high street experience has meant that many of us have had to adjust and adapt. The recent rates revaluation had been a blow for many high street retailers, particularly those in prime locations. It’s resulting in an increasing number of empty shops on the high street, which is a sorry state of affairs. LT: Any other plans in the pipeline? SM: There are always plans in the pipeline; nothing ever stands still. We’re constantly introducing new ranges and developing our product. We are very excited to be launching our new store in Oxford this year and we will continue to put all our efforts into providing superb quality and an excellent shopping experience for both parents and their children. JUNE/JULY 2017 - 25

CWB-ONLINE.CO | RETAIL

“THE FUTURE IS FULL OF OPPORTUNITY” The British Independent Retailers Association (Bira) recently held its annual High Street Conference, discussing the challenges of retailing and the impact of technology on the store landscape of the future. Isabella Griffiths reports from the day and sums up some of the highlights. — In May the British Independent Retailers Association invited its members and key industry personalities to come together at Bristol’s Marriott Royal Hotel and discuss the challenges and opportunities SMEs are facing in an increasingly digitalised world. The jam-packed agenda saw high profile speakers, ranging from retailers and academics to thought leaders and business coaches, deliver an insightful series of speeches and workshops throughout the day. Professor Jonathan Reynolds, academic director of the Oxford Institute of Retail Management and deputy dean at the University of Oxford’s Saïd Business School, shared some recent findings and research on ‘Navigating the new retail landscape’. He identified key sources of future uncertainty which are influencing and changing the retail sector, namely Knowledge, Competition and Technology. “Firstly, customers know more, and with that, they want more,” he said. “Consumers today are very ‘now’-focused. They want seamless immediacy while also having a personalised experience. An increasing amount of people want to be participative shoppers,” he added. With regards to his second point, competition, he explained: “Everyone’s a retailer now, from traditional vendors, through logistics businesses, through media and social

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media enterprises to payment providers,” he said, emphasising the impact of this growing competition on traditional retail stores. Exploring the third uncertainty, technology, he commented on the unstoppable growth of e-commerce and outlined the spread of virtual and augmented reality in retail, innovations in supply chains and logistics – for example the use of drones and driverless vehicles – as well as longer term developments such as DIY production of goods via 3D printers, which are becoming increasingly commonplace across a variety of industry sectors, including fashion. However, Reynolds retained a positive outlook and stressed that despite these uncertainties and innovations, there were still opportunities for independent retailers to be seized. “You have to ask yourself as independent retailers – where are the opportunities? How can independents take advantage of this? The glass is half full, not half empty,” he said, explaining: “Sources of advantage for indies are firstly in the environment they operate in. It’s about personalisation, participation and authority – customers’ behavioural trends match

independent retailers’ values. They are inherently more adaptable and flexible. Incremental product and process innovation can be introduced on a faster and cheaper scale, and resources can be allocated much quicker. Remember, indies are much more agile,” he encouraged. Summarising his talk, Reynolds concluded: “The physical role of retailing activity is becoming different in scale and characteristics, but look at it positively and not as a problem. The future is full of opportunity.” Reynolds’ talk was followed by workshops held by digital experts from Google Digital Garage. Google’s Abbey Oladapo outlined how to gain a competitive advantage in the ever-changing digital landscape, especially when it comes to marketing stores online. “Businesses who have a digital strategy grow twice as fast as those who don’t, so this is very important,” he said. “Optimising and managing your store’s presence on Google for searches is vital,” he began, explaining that the consumer purchase journey has significantly changed, and that from initial stimulus through to actual purchase and shopping experience lies an additional step – product

RETAIL | CWB-ONLINE.CO

research, whereby it’s vital for stores to have a positive presence and digital footprint with good feedback and reviews. “Research influences purchase decisions, so that’s why you as a retailer want to be easily found,” he continued, highlighting the need for mobile responsible sites. “Does your site shine across all devices? No one wastes their time anymore on sites that don’t work properly or are hard to navigate. If people have a bad experience, they won’t come back, it’s as simple as that,” he said. “Ninety-five per cent of consumers have searched for a local business last year; 87 per cent look for three to five star ratings before they will use a business and 76 per cent visit a business within a day of searching for one – so you need to have a presence. Local marketing and mobile are a match made in heaven,” he remarked. ‘The trends shaping the retail industry and what to do to keep up’ was the topic of speaker Mark Cooper, vice president EMEA at omnichannel specialist Vend. He began by saying: “True omnichannel is about selling more, or upselling. Use a retail solution that lets you sell online and offline with one system.” Citing a recent study of 46,000 consumers he added: “Seventy-three per cent have used multiple channels throughout their shopping journey, while 23 per cent of omnichannel shoppers logged more shopping trips to the retailers’ stores and were more likely to recommend a brand. Your customers are no longer using one channel – and neither should you,” he urged, stressing that an automated stock management system that coordinates online and offline is crucial to maximise omnichannel retail. Other topics of the day included ‘Retail brand therapy’, held by retail branding expert

Phil Dean, founder of brand communications agency Certain and ‘Managing key staffing issues’ by employment lawyer Sarah Simcott, as well as talks on the recent business rate reforms by expert Mark Radford, and Neil Mackay, co-owner of Cambridge hardware indie Mackays, on combating store theft. The day concluded with a keynote address by Laura Tenison, founder of baby and maternity specialist JoJo Maman Bebe, who gave an inspirational insight into her journey from one-woman start-up to one of the most prominent international retailers in its sector. Relaying how she built her now 80-strong retail chain with a £60m turnover from humble beginnings in 1993 and sharing her strong beliefs in ethical retailing and corporate social responsibility, which form the cornerstones of the business, she said: “I really believe in independent retailers and in reviving the high street. We might have 80 stores, but we are still independently minded. We are a

chain of independent stores, and at heart, I’m an independent retailer.” Tenison shared key points of advice on how to grow a business and the lessons she has learned over more than two decades of successful trading: “My mother instilled a sense of being frugal and a waste not, want not attitude in me, and this has always guided my business decisions. Also, believe in what you sell – it doesn’t matter what it is. You have to believe that you give true value for money.” Continuing, she said: “Omnichannel retail is here to stay, and it’s not easy to be just a pure-play bricks and mortar store anymore. You need to have an online profile. But don’t forget to connect with your customers. Do events in your store. You may not think it’s worth the effort, and maybe, from a monetary point of view it isn’t – but it means your face is out there and you’re engaging and meeting your customer. It’s vital for brand building,” she said.

“Businesses who have a digital strategy grow twice as fast as those who don’t, so this is very important”

For more information on the high street conference and membership of Bira, visit www.bira.co.uk. JUNE/JULY 2017 - 27

CWB-ONLINE.CO | INTERVIEW

SISTER ACT Fourteen years ago, three Danish sisters co-founded childrenswear agency Solobi and have successfully brought key European brands to independent boutiques ever since. This season, the business is rolling out some major developments, including four new labels to its portfolio. Laura Turner gets the latest from agency co-founder Birgitte Kleftakis. —

BIRGITTE KLEFTAKIS

Laura Turner: Before we discuss your updated portfolio, can you give us some background on Solobi and how the agency came to be? Birgitte Kleftakis: With my two sisters, Sophie and Louise, I started Solobi in 2003. We were all starting to have children, had always wanted to work and build a business together and our father, who is an entrepreneur, had continuously inspired us to work for ourselves. So, when the then very small, newly launched Danish childrenswear brand Mini A Ture contacted us to see if we wanted to represent it in England, the Solobi story began. (At that time, Mini A Ture only had around 30 styles in the collection, which were offered in six sizes.) We took some time to research the UK market, visited shops and spoke to other brands and retailers and based on that research, decided to give it 12 months to see if Mini A Ture – and the childrenswear industry – were for us. After a few years working solely with Mini A Ture, which now has six collections a year and approximately 1,000 styles offered in 15 sizes, we decided it would be interesting, as well as making good business sense, to increase our portfolio of brands. That’s when Solobi really took shape. LT: What is your criteria for the brands you represent? BK: It has to be a brand we really love, one which makes commercial sense, has a good price point, and fits the UK market. High quality is wonderful, but it also has to work; there’s no point having the best buttons in the world on a babygro if a mother can’t easily unbutton them. We make a point of always testing a brand on our own kids, too, so that we’re able to speak from real experience in terms of what works and what doesn’t. The 28 - JUNE/JULY 2017

SOPHIE DE PICCIOTTO

other important factor for us is that the brand has a well-functioning back office, understands retailers’ needs, and is willing to service them to the same level that we are. LT: S/s 18 is an exciting season for Solobi, with four new brands joining your portfolio. I believe one of them is connected to Mini A Ture? BK: Yes, the owners behind Mini A Ture have launched a brand new, all-boys range called Unauthorized. It’s designed in Denmark and produced in Europe and available from 4-14 years. The collection offers bottoms, T-shirts, shirts, jackets and accessories such as hats. It’s what I’d call a ‘masculine’ clothing brand; cool and casual everyday wear with an urban twist. There’s a range available for men, too, which is exciting. Unauthorized is addressing dad and his son and, indirectly, all the mothers who think that is it sweet to see ‘their boys’ – big and small – dress like each other. The collection has around 25-35 pieces and wholesales from £15 to £30. LT: How did you come across your second new label, the Swedish brand One We Like? BK: We already knew Vicky Springfeldt, the owner and designer of One We Like, so when she started the brand in 2014, we were very keen to work with her. We began a soft launch in the UK last year but s/s 18 is the first time the brand will be exhibited in the UK. LT: How does One We Like complement your portfolio? BK: It adds a new component, in that it only works with organic cotton, which we love, and many of the styles are unisex, which is also new for us. We describe One We Like as a timeless brand – it is cool today and it will be cool in 10

LOUISE HYMANS

years’ time. All the styles are jersey and made from organic cotton and include bodies, T-shirts, jumpers, hoodies, dresses, leggings and bottoms for 0-14 years. To create the prints, the brand collaborates with top illustrators and creatives each season. Wholesaling from £8 to £18, it is also very well-priced, which is always an important element for retailers and us. Essentially, it’s a very simple brand to buy and to sell and we love that simplicity. LT: Leading UK label Wild & Gorgeous is another of your additions; how do you foresee the brand changing the dynamics of your offer? BK: As an agency, we have some great Scandinavian brands and represent that style very well. In terms of British design, we currently work with the exquisite girlswear label Holly Hastie and really want to build on that offering. That’s where Wild & Gorgeous comes in with its beautiful and cool British style. We have followed the brand, formerly known as ilovegorgeous, since it began in 2007 and have always loved it. The collections encompass partywear, dresses, knitwear, playsuits, skirts, tops, T-shirts, shirts, jumpers, hoodies, nightwear and beachwear. The look draws very much on vintage finds for inspiration, developing beautiful, luxury clothing for children age 0-15 years. We like the ‘classic with a twist’ style the brand offers and the fact it creates stunning items that are perfect for special occasions, but also wearable every day. Whether it’s the ultimate girly party dress or embroidered super cool pyjamas, twirly skirts or cashmere stripy jumpers, denim playsuits or smart shirts, the collections are filled with beautifully designed shapes finished with imaginative uses of fabric, texture and detail.

INTERVIEW | CWB-ONLINE.CO

LT: So, your portfolio now has Scandinavian, British, unisex and organic covered – what does your fourth and final brand provide? BK: We have literally just partnered with the new Australian accessories brand Billy Loves Audrey, which is for boys and girls age six months to six years. Each collection features woodland animals and characters that come to life across socks, tights, hats, scarves, handbags, purses and hair accessories. Unique detailing is lovingly designed in Melbourne to create collections with magical embellishments such as crowns, “sticky up ears”, pom-poms, sequins, linen glitter and tulle sparkles, all combined with the theatre of play. Wholesale prices are from £2 to £9.

WILD & GORGEOUS

LT: Are there plans to take on further labels? BK: Currently, our plan is to focus on the ones we have, but we are always open and always looking. As an agency, we believe you need to include new labels in your portfolio every so often to keep the offering fresh and new for clients. UNAUTHORIZED

LT: What challenges are you currently facing as a UK childrenswear agent? BK: One of the biggest issues in the UK market currently is the pound exchange rate. With the uncertainty of Brexit, some retailers are starting to shift towards feeling more comfortable buying in pounds, as opposed to euros. That is obviously a challenge for the brands that sell in euros. LT: What’s the key to Solobi’s success? BK: As an agency, we always work towards maintaining a high level of professionalism while still creating a strong personal relationship with our clients. Being a family run business, we also work very well together and I think our clients enjoy being included in our little family. We have retailers who have been with us since the beginning and have stocked Mini A Ture since it entered the UK market. That’s very special to us. LT: Where do you see the agency in another five years’ time? BK: We would like to keep building the portfolio around timeless, classic and contemporary brands. With the introduction of One We Like, we are gathering experience working with an organic brand and with eco-fashion. With the knowledge gained, we would like to develop that area of the agency to offer more sustainable brands. And, as I currently live and work out of the USA for six months of the year, I’ve done some research into the American market. With the right product, we might just decide to open a Solobi division in the States…

BILLY LOVES AUDREY

ONE WE LIKE

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CWB-ONLINE.CO | EXHIBITION CALENDAR

EXHIBITION CALENDAR CWB’s trade show guide. — BUBBLE LONDON 16-17 July 2017 Business Design Centre, Islington, London www.bubblelondon.com The s/s 18 edition of Bubble, London’s largest baby and kids’ trade show, will present a diverse line-up of kids’ fashion, footwear, gift and interiors brands. This season’s highlights include the return of Bump, the event’s popular showcase for maternity and nursery labels, which for s/s 18 includes Ju-Ju-Be, Mama Designs, Gertie the Good Goose, BundleBean, The Daddy Bag, Ewan the Dream Sheep, Bullabaloo, B Shirt, Modor Neycher, Nikiana and Buggygear. Bubble’s innovative pop-up area, POP, will also make a welcome reappearance, playing host to new exhibitors such as Born Bespoke, Knoknoknok, Koh, Milly’O, PlumeBleu, Eva & Indie, Sonny Angel, Tout Petit, XOKiddo and Wex Baby, with brands such as JAM London and Nibbling Teething jewellery making their return for s/s 18. Other features include new panel discussions, seminars, the return of the Green Ambassador campaign fronted by Leo Bamford of My Baba who will be championing Bubble’s eco-friendly and organic exhibitors, a kids’ interiors installation and children’s music workshops.

MODA FOOTWEAR 6-8 August 2017 NEC, Birmingham www.moda-uk.co.uk Children’s footwear buyers can connect with all their key suppliers within one accessible location at Mini Moda. This season will see Spanish footwear specialist Pablosky arrive as a new signing, while returning favourites include Lelli Kelly, Bull Boys, Ricosta, Pepino, Noel Kids, Petasil, Primigi, Richter, Bobux and Froddo. Beyond Mini Moda, buyers can also top up their spring offer with the children’s styles within wider footwear brands at Moda Footwear such as Skechers, Ipanema, Xti and Birkenstock.

COOL KIDS FASHION SHANGHAI 2017 19-21 July 2017 NECC, Shanghai, China www.cbmexpo.com/en Organised by UBM China, Cool Kids Fashion Shanghai 2017 is China’s must-attend children fashion event for trade professionals, featuring a complete overview of children’s fashion and accessories for 0-16 years. The event includes trend forums, a fashion show, a Designers Gallery, a kids’ fashion design contest and private networking events, while participating brands this season include Babiboo, Hanakimi, Hasbro, Hexue, Maya and My Little Pony. Attendees can expect a strong business element throughout the three-day show, with all of the programs offered being planned with industry professionals in mind. The business matching program for example, provides the opportunity for exhibitors to meet and negotiate deals with international buyers. It’s also worth noting that with a Cool Kids Fashion Shanghai pass, visitors can also access CBME China, the one-stop sourcing event for children, baby and maternity products and services, and Licensing Show China, which are both co-located in the same venue.

CHILDREN’S CLUB 6-8 August 2017 Jacobs Javits Center, New York www.enkshows.com

CIFF KIDS 9-11 August 2017 Forum Copenhagen ciff.dk

TOP DRAWER 10-12 September 2017 Olympia, London www.topdrawer.co.uk

PLAYTIME NEW YORK 6-8 August 2017 Metropolitan Pavilion, New York www.playtimenewyork.com

PLAYTIME TOKYO 22-24 August 2017 Belle Salle Shibuya Garden, Tokyo www.playtimetokyo.com

KIND + JUGEND 14-17 September 2017 Koelnmesse, Cologne www.kindundjugend.com

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ABC KIDS EXPO 17-19 October 2017 Las Vegas Convention Center Las Vegas www.theabcshow.com

VISIT CWB-ONLINE.CO

CWB-ONLINE.CO | TRENDS

SPRING/SUMMER 2018 COLOUR FORECAST Fiona Coleman, trend expert and member of the British Textile Colour Group, reveals the five key s/s 18 colour stories to look out for in childrenswear. —

AQUA SPLASH

LITTLE GREEN RADICALS

KITE

NOESER

WILD & GORGEOUS

Fresh pool blue/greens take over from the dominance of yellow/ greens in previous seasons. For high summer we see tonal shades of aqua and sea green with washed pastel shades as main colours for girls’ and boys’ jersey and knitwear, while stronger sea greens work well across sportswear, casual and party categories.

NEON LIGHTS

HOLLY HASTIE

KNIT PLANET

Fluorescent brights are hot once again for s/s 18. This time they have a whitened aspect, still bright but fresher and lighter, appearing both as a main colour and also a highlight pop for accessories and trim. Yellow lime is the most popular shade but also look out for orange, watermelon and aqua.

WILD & GORGEOUS

GRACE BABY & CHILD

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TRENDS | CWB-ONLINE.CO

THINK PINK

LILLY + SID

We see pink gaining momentum as a fashion colour again for s/s 18 influenced by the women’s catwalks. Bright ‘Gucci’ pink is set to take over from the peach and blush tones of s/s 17. All shades of pink are popular and often worn together. Brighter shades are also paired with complementary red and orange.

HOLLIE HASTIE

WILD & GORGEOUS

NOESER

MOODY BLUES

PIGEON ORGANICS LILLY + SID

GRACE BABY & CHILD

LE MU

ANNALIV

From pale chambray to intense indigo, commercial blues remain in favour and have evolved with a subtle lilac cast and a cleaner aspect influenced by womenswear trends. Working well across woven and jersey, they’re a great shade for chambray and washed linen, as well as for more sports influenced product.

SUNSHINE STATE

FRUGI

KITE

NIKOLIA

KNIT PLANET

A key statement for s/s 18, orange influenced by sport takes over from yellow as the season’s bright. Saffron is the most challenging shade but also the one we’ve seen develop the most. We also see bright jaffa orange and tomato orange, both good commercial shades, working well across boys, girls and multiple product. JUNE/JULY 2017 - 33

www.froddo.com UK Distributor: KidsNewShoes.com Ltd E: info@kidsnewshoes.com M: +44 (0)7796 766669 T: +44 (0)1707 888388

BUBBLE LONDON Business Design Centre London Stand D34 16 – 17 July 2017

MODA NEC Birmingham Stand H41 6 – 8 August 2017

ABERDEEN Jurys Inn 28 August – 1 September 2017

DUBLIN FASHION CITY 4 – 7 September 2017

GATWICK Holiday Inn London Gatwick 10 – 11 September 2017

BRISTOL Holiday Inn City Centre 19 September 2017

Preview the Spring Summer 2018 Collection at Bubble London 16/17 July 2017 Call 01245 396821 or email georgia@cyberjammies.co.uk to book your appointment

www.cyberjammies.co.uk

Seriously comfortable nightwear for seriously cool kids

LISTED F RT

BUBBLE PREVIEW | CWB-ONLINE.CO

BUBBLE LONDON 16 & 17 July 2017 Business Design Centre Islington London

THE BUYERS’ GUIDE TO BUBBLE S/S 18… 38 SEMINAR SCHEDULE... 45 WHAT’S ON… 46

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CWB-ONLINE.CO | BUBBLE PREVIEW

THE BUYERS’ GUIDE TO BUBBLE LONDON S/S 18 UK AND OVERSEAS BUYERS TELL CWB WHY THEY CAN’T AFFORD TO MISS THIS SEASON’S BUBBLE LONDON. —

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BUBBLE PREVIEW | CWB-ONLINE.CO

LAURA SLATER, DIRECTOR, EAT SLEEP LOVE, BLACKHEATH, LONDON

EWAN THE DREAM SHEEP - BUMP

LOOKING FOR NURSERY PRODUCT?

THAT’S MINE - STAND B6

I do a lot of my buying at trade shows, I am much better at placing orders when I can see, touch and feel the items, rather than just viewing them online. Bubble London is great for me. I don’t have to travel too far to visit - we are so busy at the moment that taking too much time out would be hard to justify – and unlike some of the other trade shows, Bubble isn’t too big, meaning that you can easily get round in a day. What’s of real interest to me is the show’s Bubble Bump area for maternity and nursery collections. It had a real buzz to it last season and a good range of nursery products, including bedding and swaddles. It was also a great place to network, catch up with existing suppliers and see new brands. Mama Designs, for instance, was a new brand we took on after meeting at Bubble last season and I don’t think we would have opened the account had we not met at the show. As well as meeting new contacts I also love catching up with existing suppliers, so being able to see Jem + Bea at Bubble last season was great. Viewing the new collection got me so inspired that I placed pre-orders. In terms of my hit list for this season’s Bubble, I plan to visit Bullabaloo, as the designs look great, Ewan the Dream Sheep, as I keep getting lots of requests from customers for ‘a Ewan’ and That’s Mine, as I’m on the lookout for more nursery decor.

BULLABALOO - BUMP GRACE BABY & CHILD - STAND VC18

DINA MOON, HEAD BUYER, CHILDRENSALON, TUNBRIDGE WELLS Bubble London is a great opportunity to meet our current suppliers and see their new collections, as well as explore new brands and talent, both national and international. The show is a great networking hub for us. We don’t want to miss the opportunity to see new brands and designers; meeting them INEVITABILE - STAND A17 all in one place is definitely much easier for our buyers. In fact, many of our existing brands have been discovered at Bubble. We are always looking for beautiful products - our philosophy is to dress children beautifully and this is extremely important for us. We don’t have a brand hit list for s/s 18, but our fantastic team of buyers is always looking for brands that will surprise us.

DOLLY BY LE PETIT TOM - STAND E14

G KIN LOO UTIFUL BEA ? FOR ANDS BR

BOGOLETA COUTURE - STAND C38

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CWB-ONLINE.CO | BUBBLE PREVIEW

NINO KUKHALASHVILI, DIRECTOR, IGLOO KIDS, ST. JOHN’S WOOD, LONDON It’s vital to stay on top of industry news, to understand what’s going on in the market and to know what’s hot for the coming season which is why attending Bubble is important to our business. The show enables you to meet people, to network and to find out about new trends and promotions. I’d also recommend it for helping develop a ‘buyer’s instinct’: being a smaller show it’s not overwhelming for new buyers and retailers, it’s easy to get around and I like the fact you can visit most of the stands in one day. For s/s 18, I’ll be looking for some new brands at Bubble, specifically in babywear as well as shoes and gifts for little ones. I plan to browse and see what I discover.

BIBI - STAND D32

WEX BABY - POP

LOOK ING FOR G IFT IDEAS ? NIKIANI - BUMP CRIBSTAR - STAND C28

KIRSTY CUNNINGHAM, CO-OWNER, WINDMILL, WESTON PARK, LONDON Bubble is our favourite trade show – it’s a friendly, fun and non-pushy. Luckily, it’s local to our London children’s footwear store, but I would advise buyers based further afield to make the journey to visit. As well as finding new and G LOOKIN exciting brands there, we place a lot of our big forward orders at R W OT EA Bubble. FOR FO AND Whilst at the show, we always try to catch a couple of the ORIES? Look Who’s Talking business seminars where in the past, we ACCESS have gained some valuable insights and advice. We have also been lucky enough to meet some great mentors at Bubble, which we were introduced to by our brands – we’ve found that most people in the shoe trade are friendly and willing to help and guide new independents. This season, we have a number of collections we plan to see at the show – in terms of footwear, Easy Peasy and Nens look interesting and for accessories, we’ll be checking out Knoknoknok and Sonny Angel. However, we always see something on the day that we just can’t live without!

KNOKNOKNOK - POP

NENS - STAND A25 SONNY ANGEL - POP

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BUBBLE PREVIEW | CWB-ONLINE.CO

GILLIAN FRANKS, OWNER, PIXIE, HALE, CHESHIRE For Pixie, Bubble London has predominantly been about meeting new and exciting brands and networking with suppliers. The UK is a very unique market, so it’s great to have such a wide selection of well-known brands and knowledgeable experts all in one place. Bubble also provides us with the perfect opportunity to meet new and existing contacts and discuss opportunities for the future. You can usually expect some special offers and discounts if you place orders at the show too, which is definitely an added incentive when considering new brands. Insight into market trends is increasingly important to us, so I will be looking to explore this in more detail via Bubble’s business seminars, where panels of established buyers and wholesalers share their expertise. In terms of buying, I’ll be looking to meet current brands whilst COOEE KIDS - POP exploring more new labels.

LO FOR OKING NEW S/S SIGN ING 18 S?

XOKIDDO - POP

LITTLE MOUSE - STAND D12 MILLY ’O - STAND POP

TINA MOUSTRIDOU, MANAGING DIRECTOR, PETIT MOI, KIFISSIA, GREECE To give some insight into our business, we are a childrenswear boutique located in Kifissia, Greece, which is one of the two richest suburbs in Athens. We serve the two international schools in Greece with children’s shoes, so there is a huge mixture of nationalities within our clientele. We are also located next door to Oscar de la Renta and Mothercare, which means offering customers something different and unique is very important to us. After five years in the business, we have discovered that quality is the only way to go, yet it must be affordable quality – Greece is going through tough times and even our most affluent customers’ spend is being affected. We already work with a number of Bubble London’s exhibitors including Froddo, Kite and Nens, so in addition to these, we’ll be exploring what the show has to offer in terms of new brands. We’ll be looking for footwear, clothing and accessories that offer something different – Phi Clothing, Pilar Batanero, Pureté du... Bébé and Kokacharm are just some of the brands we’re planning to see. We’ll also be looking for gift-led products, present ideas for birthday parties and nice boyswear, which is something we always have demand for.

KOKACHARM - VA19 MOCCSTARS - STAND C15

KING LOO FOR ING ETH SOM ? QUE UNI FLAKIKI - STAND C13

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CWB-ONLINE.CO | BUBBLE PREVIEW

JULIE LOWE, OWNER, BIFF, DULWICH VILLAGE, LONDON

LOVE NONKU HANDMADE - POP

I’m a big fan of Bubble London and trade shows in general. They provide opportunity to network, compare ranges and find new brands, as well as acting as an aid to map out buying for the next season. They are also integral for finding in-season ranges, meeting brand reps and agents face-to-face and to see collections in the flesh – things you just can’t replicate with online research. For us, the strength of Bubble has LOOKING been babywear and UK-based brands FOR GIFT-L such as Kite, Lucy & Sam and Frugi. ED PRODUCT? For s/s 18, I’m looking for new ranges with a strong gift focus, I’m open minded productwise and plan to walk the floor and see what catches my eye.

BORN BESPOKE - POP

MINIJAMMIES - STAND D30

ROCKAHULA KIDS - STAND VB15

JENNY ERWIN, CHILDRENSWEAR & UNIFORMS BUYER, ARNOTTS DEPARTMENT STORE, DUBLIN For me, visiting Bubble London is a good way to get an overview of the season, a feel for the overriding trends and colours, and it means I don’t miss out on hearing which product areas and brands are developing. It is important to keep in touch with all of the changes and innovations happening within the industry and you tend to glean this information at Bubble. I also use the show as an opportunity to meet up with the marketing teams, sales managers and owners from the brands, so that we can discuss any potential events UZTURRE U-BABIES STAND D24 or partnerships for the upcoming season. I wouldn’t want to miss out on networking opportunities with fellow stores as well as agents and reps. We usually find new lifestyle or accessory brands at Bubble, which help to bring theatre and entertainment into the department. This year we are bringing in BKD, the baking brand, which we found at the January edition of the show. For s/s 18, we’re looking to Bubble for additional brands for our nursery section as well as baby gifting ideas.

BLADE & ROSE - STAND A9

G KIN LOO RSERY NU FOR EAS? ID

MAMA DESIGNS - BUMP

JU-JU-BE - POP

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BUBBLE PREVIEW | CWB-ONLINE.CO

VICTORIA HAMPSON, DIRECTOR, NATURAL BABY SHOWER, BAGSHOT, SURREY Bubble London, for me particularly, is a good opportunity to get out and see the products and put aside specific time to do so. Although I am a buyer, I am also the business owner, so I find I am pulled in all directions and do not get enough time to focus on finding those all important new bestsellers. There are so many new brands and products out there, and we are always being approached, but without the time to really GERTIE THE GOOD GOOSE - BUMP focus, finding the right ones and bringing them in does not always take priority. By visiting Bubble, this job has my full attention. It provides the opportunity to see and experience the new brands in person, touch and feel the quality, and meet the designers. It is often a chance to put faces to names that you’ve been speaking with, as well as catching up with known contacts. Essentially, it is great to be able to see innovative new brands, as well as some better known ones, all under one roof, in a relaxed atmosphere. As my visits in the past have primarily been for new and useful contacts within the industry, it was very interesting to be a judge for the show’s Rising Star competition last year - I got real insight into six very young brands. In terms of this season’s show, I’ll be looking for brands that fit our ethos of ethical, eco and baby-friendly. Clothing that is soft, practical and modern in designs for the 0-2 year age bracket. I’m also interested in nursery decor. Some of the specific brands BABY GI - STAND A8 we want to see for s/s 18 include Babidu, Cribstar, Baby Gi, Gertie the Good Goose, Kissy Kissy and Bobux.

BOBUX - STAND A19

FOR ING DLY K O LO EN -FRI S? Y B BA ND BRA

THOMAS ANTHONY, SALES MANAGER, MAISON BIBI, MASSACHUSETTS, USA

BABIDU - STAND B37

This season is the first buying trip to Bubble London for Maison Bibi, although I have been to the show in the past. As a newly launched, US-based childrenswear boutique, we would be missing out on absolutely everything if we didn’t attend. We have chosen the show because our business is focused on European branding and because it’s hard to find exclusive designs MINI MELISSA - STAND C3 for the American market – Bubble offers the perfect opportunity to get to know small and exclusive, quality labels. It is also a great networking event. With regard to brands, we are huge fans of Mini Melissa who LOOK is exhibiting at the show, but ING FOR T IMELE unfortunately we are not offering SS BRAN DS? shoes initially. However, we have our eye on Patachou and Babidu among a few others. PATACHOU - STAND C40

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CWB-ONLINE.CO | BUBBLE PREVIEW

LULU RAYNE, STEP2WO HARVEY NICHOLS BUYER We always make time to visit Bubble each season. We are based in London and think it is important that we have a strong show like Bubble supporting the kidswear industry here in the capital. As Bubble is a very manageable size, it means we get a chance to see all of the exhibitors when we are there. It’s useful for us to see collections a couple of times before we make a decision about whether a brand could work in one of our stores – trade shows like Bubble enable us to see the collections for ourselves and get to know the people behind the brands. Nothing can replace physically seeing and touching a product to get a feel for the quality and craftsmanship. On our last visit, we picked up a new brand, Little CARLIE GRACE Wardrobe London, which is a - POP beautiful kidswear label entirely made in London. MARMAR COPENHAGEN - STAND B22 This season we will be visiting the show to see some of our existing brands, such as Kissy Kissy, as well as looking for a bit of inspiration.

LOO KIN G FOR INS PIRA TIO N?

PLUMEBLEU - POP

JADE KELLY, CO-OWNER, JELLY KIDS BOUTIQUE, LEATHERHEAD, SURREY Past season visits to Bubble have proved extremely important to our business. There are labels we discovered there which have since become our bestsellers and we’ve also obtained key industry knowledge and contacts that we wouldn’t otherwise have had. Our main reasons for visiting the show are to view the new season’s collections from our current brands, discover new labels – there is something for everyone no matter what you are looking for – and to meet the people behind the brands. Bubble also provides the opportunity to OR ING F D K O O L network and discover the key trends AN CAL ETHI NIC? for the next season. ORGA At the s/s 18 show we are looking for ethically made labels, if possible organic but also trendled. Also on our hit list are current stockists DOT and Patachou. BARN OF MONKEYS - STAND B19 DOODLE DO - STAND VC45

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DYOMINISTYLING - STAND C14

BUBBLE PREVIEW | CWB-ONLINE.CO

SEMINAR SCHEDULE Bubble London isn’t just a buying event: the show’s free Look Who’s Talking seminar programme helps retailers and brands alike to plug knowledge gaps, develop new skills and grow their businesses. Here’s the s/s 18 line-up... SUNDAY 16 JULY: 10.30-11.00: GROW YOUR FANS THROUGH YOUR BRANDING: ABIGAIL AND CHLOE BALDWIN, BUTTERCRUMBLE. Abigail and Chloe Baldwin, the design duo behind creative agency Buttercrumble, reveal how you can use branding to grow and develop your company’s fanbase. 12.00-12.30: FUTURE PROOFING - HOW INTERIORS CAN GROW YOUR BUSINESS. CHAIR: HOLLY KIRKWOOD, ABSOLUTELY MAMA. PANEL: DEONNE ROWLAND, ODD SOCK, ODD SHOE, MAGGIE BOLGER, MAGGIE & ROSE, NATHALIE VOSS, BUNNY & CLYDE, JAVIER NAVARRO, MADE.COM, GRACE TINDALL, SCANDIBORN. Our expert panel discusses the latest trends in kids’ interiors. 13.00-13.30: BUYER’S PANEL: CHAIR: FIONA COLEMAN. PANEL: NICK BASSI, CHILDSPLAY, FRANCK VAN HUIZEN, VAN HUIZEN AGENCIES, IZABELLA MINKIEWICZ, BLUE ALMONDS. Exclusive insights from some of the kids’ industry’s leading buyers and retailers.

14.00-14.30: TREND UPDATE: FIONA COLEMAN. Which colours, themes and key looks should you invest in this buying season? Find out with leading trend consultant Fiona Coleman. 15.30-16.00: PERFECT PITCH: CHAIR: DANIELLE WILKINS, LITTLE LONDON/ BABY LONDON. A new and improved, panel-style Perfect Pitch programme, which sees Bubble’s most exciting new designers deliver five-minute elevator pitches on their brands. MONDAY 17 JULY: 10.00-10.30: GROW YOUR FANS THROUGH YOUR BRANDING: ABIGAIL AND CHLOE BALDWIN, BUTTERCRUMBLE. Another chance to catch creative agency Buttercrumble’s exclusive branding masterclass.

12.30-13.00: ONLINE RETAILING: HOW TO GET IT RIGHT: DAN CONBOY, STATEMENT AGENCY. Launching a transactional website? Retail, e-commerce and digital marketing professional Dan Conboy explains how to get it right first time. 13.30-14.00: BUYER’S PANEL: CHAIR: FIONA COLEMAN. PANEL: DANNY SHEVEY, KID’S CAVERN, FRANCK VAN HUIZEN, VAN HUIZEN AGENCIES. Top retailers and agencies will share their buying tips in this exclusive panel discussion, chaired by trend specialist Fiona Coleman. 15.30-16.00: PERFECT PITCH: CHAIR: DANIELLE WILKINS, LITTLE LONDON/ BABY LONDON. A second round of unique ‘perfect pitches’ from new Bubble brands. Don’t miss the chance to get up close and personal with our stars of tomorrow...

11.30-12.00: TREND UPDATE: FIONA COLEMAN. Discover s/s 18’s most important kidswear trends with experienced consultant Fiona Coleman. >>> JUNE/JULY 2017 - 45

CWB-ONLINE.CO | BUBBLE PREVIEW

SPUN CANDY

MEDIA KIOSK

LOOK WHO’S TALKING PERFECT PITCH

WE’VE GOT CHEMISTRY

LOOK WHO’S TALKING

RISING STAR

WHAT’S ON AT BUBBLE LONDON S/S 18 Added value content at this season’s show includes a host of exciting features and events. —

MEDIA KIOSK

BUTTERCRUMBLE

GREEN AMBASSADOR

MAGGIE & ROSE

46 - JUNE/JULY 2017

BUTTERCRUMBLE

BUNNY & CLYDE

BUBBLE PREVIEW | CWB-ONLINE.CO

STAND OUT COMPETITION: This season, Bubble has enhanced its programme of exhibitor-only competitions with the return of a new and improved Stand Out Competiton. Open to all s/s 18 exhibitors, Stand Out is an award for Bubble’s most creative, effective and well designed stand, judged by the show’s own expert team. Every exhibitor will be in the running, with the winner receiving a full, season-long trade marketing package, a banner on the Bubble website, a dedicated e-shot, a blog post, social media coverage and a full page advert in CWB Magazine. PERFECT PITCH: Informal, five-minute ‘pitches’ from some of the show’s most exciting new brands, during which they’ll share their stories, introduce their collections, and reveal their plans for the future. Chaired by Danielle Wilkins of Baby/ Little London, this season’s programme has a new Q&A format. RISING STAR: Judged by a panel of expert retailers and influencers, the Rising Star competition to find Bubble’s best launch brand has become an institution. Previous winners include Plumeti Rain, Oh...My! Kidswear and Wolf & Rita. Last season’s winner, Love & Honor, will return to the event this season, with its successor due to be announced on Sunday afternoon. MEDIA KIOSK

GREEN AMBASSADOR: A campaign to champion Bubble’s eco-friendly and organic exhibitors fronted by Leo Bamford of My Baba. Leo will share news about green brands in the runup to Bubble, before styling a special installation at the show. WE’VE GOT CHEMISTRY: A unique feature area showcasing exciting partnerships between kids’ brands. This season’s collaborations include Pearl Lowe and Selfish Mother, Anorak Magazine and Made.com, Iglo + Indi and Care Bears, and Kissy Kissy and Blue Almonds. SPUN CANDY: Sweet treats from artisan confectioners Spun Candy, who will be creating personalised lollipops to order on stand A46. MONTY THE MAESTRO: Music workshops and book signings for children, running on both Sunday and Monday on stand E48. Sunday: 11am, 12.30pm, 2.30pm and 4.30pm. Monday: 10am. MAGGIE & ROSE AT HOME: Maggie & Rose, the international Family Members Club, showcase their newly launched homewares range on stand A60. Pop along and try out their collection of bespoke furniture and interior’s and children’s play accessories designed by Maggie Bolger, CEO and Co-founder of Maggie & Rose. Keep the little ones entertained with arts and crafts workshops throughout Sunday and Monday. BUTTERCRUMBLE: Abigail and Chloe of creative collective Buttercrumble will be producing visitor portraits live at the show.

MONTY THE MAESTRO

MEDIA KIOSK: The Bubble media kiosk stocks some of the kidswear industry’s leading publications, both international and homegrown. Visitors can pick up copies of Kid’s Wear, Luna, CWB Magazine, Milk Kid’s Collections and Collezioni at discounted rates. INTERIORS: This season, visitors can head over to a special interiors area for plenty of creative home inspiration. Look out for the new homeware collection by family members’ club Maggie & Rose and Baby I Like Your Style, an exclusive installation curated by design-led nursery and children’s furniture and lifestyle brand, Bunny & Clyde, in conjunction with Absolutely Mama magazine.

SPUN CANDY

JUNE/JULY 2017 - 47

BARN OF MONKEYS

CHILDRENCHIC

UZTURRE Since 1928, our home & stroller collections have varied designs full of details and hi-quality fabrics, to find the one that goes with you. We offer a broad range of complements and accessories, creating a place full of love for you and your baby. Handmade with love. 100% Made in Spain. — Tel: +34 943 691 674 / +34 696 948 240 Email: uzturre@uzturre.es www.u-babies.com

Barn of Monkeys is a new Portuguese brand, designed for children and youngsters, that uses unique designs, exclusive prints and organic materials to revolutionize the fashion world. — Email: hello@barnofmonkeys.com / claudia.senra@barnofmonkeys.com www.barnofmonkeys.com q

Our shoe label is inspired by timeless fashion, designed by mothers and hand-crafted in Spain. Our line showcases a variety of styles that range in size from 16 to 37 with endless options of materials, colors and trimmings to choose from. — Alexandra Capriles-Azpurua Tel: +19176802099 Email: alexandra@childrenchic.com

STAND B19

STAND C16

STAND D24

JU-JU-BE

PRAIRIE SAINT-PETERSBURG

Ju-Ju-Be was launched 11 years ago by a dynamic duo who believed that changing bags should not only make life easier, but also more glamorous and fun by combining high-tech design with functionality. — Email: eu@ju-ju-be.com europe.ju-ju-be.com t

STAND BUMP

DES ETOILES PLEIN LES YEUX®

FRODDO

Brother and Sister, Laetitia and Lionel decided to unite their passions to create their own and personal prêt-à-porter company. Both collections and models are thought and designed to allow children to proudly wear colours from all around the world. They present their first collection SS18 combines Chic French, luxury and new style for kids between 2 and 12 years. — Email: contact@desetoiles-pleinlesyeux.com www.desetoiles-pleinlesyeux.com

Prairie Saint-Petersburg - two collections per year from retail professionals. Perfect quality and sell-outs guaranteed. Middle plus - premium price range. — Tel: +7 921 918-89-98 Email: info@prairiedefleurs.com

STAND D25

Premium quality children’s leather shoes in sizes 17 – 42. Eco friendly, Chrome VI free, anatomically designed with padding and arch support. Leather lined, removeable insoles, dual fit (F&G), breathable membranes. — Tel: 01707 888388 Email: info@kidsnewshoes.com www.froddo.com

STAND A11 48 - JUNE/JULY 2017

STAND D43

LONDON

16 & 17 July 2017, Business Design Centre bubblelondon.com #discoverbubble

About Little Zi:

Little Zi is a brand created by a mother and daughter with a dream to create a baby collection of excellent quality utilizing environmentally friendly materials. Born organically with love, we present our collection from our family to yours.

About our collection:

Our Cotton:

In searching for the best quality of organic cotton in the market, we came across the Native Organic Cotton from Peru. Native organic cotton is cotton free of dyes and chemicals. It also features properties that are beneficial to the baby’s skin; they are hypoallergenic, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial. The Native Organic Cotton also has especially long fibers which contribute to its durability. The Native Organic Cotton is utilized for our Organic Collection, and is Global Organic Textile Standard (aka “GOTS”) certified. The Pima cotton utilized in our Pima Collection, is created with environmentally friendly dyes. The Pima cotton allows us to work with a variety of colors while being free of heavy chemicals. The Pima cotton is silky soft, perfect for the baby’s skin.

Our philosophy is to create a collection that is Timeless, Elegant, and Sustainable. Together with our love for Mother Nature, we focused this collection in creating a garment that is not only beneficial to our children but also to our planet. Our organic collection uses the best organic cotton we want our children to wear while reducing our carbon footprint. Our Pima cotton, while being sustainable, allows us to create beautiful pieces with a variety of colors. We hope you come to love our collection as much as we do.

Email: sales@littlezi.com www.littlezi.com

CWB-ONLINE.CO | PRODUCT

Style GUIDE:

TWISTED TWEE Pint and Half-Pint T-shirts £19 for the set suzi@twistedtwee.co.uk

TWINNING IS WINNING: Stylish get-ups for parent and child.

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

FRED & NOAH Leggings Adult £18 Child £9 Natalie@fredandnoah.com

CURIOUS ORANJ

NOÉ AND ZOË Canvas bombers and Bermuda shorts Wholesale prices on request claudia@vida-kids.co.uk

50 - JUNE/JULY 2017

LOVE & HONOR Sweatshirts Adult £22 Child £13.50 hello@loveandhonor.co

NOR-FOLK BFF (Best Friends Forever) T-shirts Adult £12.50 Child £10 hello@nor-folk.com

PRODUCT | CWB-ONLINE.CO

LAURA

LOVES

01: BECKY BAUR Rabbit travel journal £4 info@beckybaur.co.uk 04: FLIBBERTY Real Adventure Den Kit containing everything needed to build a den including tarpaulin, ground sheet, tent pegs, mallet and rope £16.28 orders@flibberty.com

02: STORY Adventure to the Woods – the Walk-in-book with storytelling props £12 melanie@wearestory.co.uk 05: THE JAM TART Animal alphabet flash cards £7.80 hello@thejamtart.co.uk

03: EMS FOR KIDS Ear defenders for babies and children From £8.99 sales@ems4kidseardefenders.co.uk 06: WILD THINGS Fancy dress Wise Owl cape and mask £16 wildthingsdresses@gmail.com

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale JUNE/JULY 2017 - 51

• SCHOOL KNITWEAR - JUMPERS, CARDIGANS, TANKTOPS, HATS AND SCARVES, CRICKET JUMPERS. • 100% ACRYLIC, 50/50 COTTON ACRYLIC, WOOL. • HIGH QUALITY MATERIALS, TESTED FOR PILLING, SHRINKAGE AND COLOUR FASTNESS. • WE CARRY STOCK COLOURS AND ALSO MAKE BESPOKE STYLES. • WE CAN DYE TO MATCH TO IDENTIFY WITH YOUR EXISTING COLOUR WAYS.

Dee Kay Knitwear (UK) Ltd 227-231 Belgrave Gate, Leicester, LE1 3HT Tel: 0116 253 7560 | info@deekayknitwear.com www.deekayknitwear.com

SCHOOLWEAR BUYER: THE LATEST NEWS AND OPINION FROM THE SCHOOLWEAR INDUSTRY

CURIOUS ORANJ

55: News

56: SA Awards 2017 Everything you need to know about the inaugural Schoolwear Association industry awards.

58: Meet the Manufacturer Three British manufacturers of schoolwear who recently showcased their spectrum of skills at Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Meet the Manufacturer trade show. JUNE/JULY 2017 - 53

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SCHOOLWEAR | CWB-ONLINE.CO

Schoolwear NEWS:

TERM FOOTWEAR LAUNCH

The latest news from the schoolwear industry. DAVID BURGESS RE-ELECTED AS SA CHAIR

David Burgess has been re-elected as chair of the Schoolwear Association (SA), renewing his commitment to supporting the industry and promoting the benefits of school uniform. Furthermore, Daniel Turner, managing director of William Turner, is the new SA vice chairman, taking over from Christine Campbell. Turner has been a member of the SA executive since the association’s launch in 2006 and has had responsibility for the marketing team throughout that period. “We believe school specific uniform is not only a practical and cost effective solution for schools and parents, but also drives a sense of belonging and pride for pupils,” says Burgess. “To make sure this message is heard, we need to maintain a strong industry association representing the many small and medium sized businesses, from manufacturers to wholesalers and independent retailers, in this sector.” The SA represents British businesses involved in the manufacture and supply of school-specific uniform, including retailers, suppliers, distributors, wholesalers, decorators, agents and schools. The association, which as more than 250 members, is run on an entirely voluntary basis by some of the sector’s most experienced professionals. —

NEWS IN BRIEF

ROWLINSON BOASTS HAPPY WORKFORCE Personalised knitwear manufacturer Rowlinson Knitwear (Rowlinson) has been named one of the UK’s Best Workplaces by Great Place to Work in its annual Best Workplaces ranking. Ranked 23rd in the small organisation category, it is the first time Rowlinson has achieved this honour, which recognises the schoolwear manufacturer as having a high trust engaged workplace culture. The methodology behind the ranking comprised both an employee survey and an audit into the organisation’s management and HR practices. “Our approach to people management is the driving force behind our ability to attract and retain talent to accelerate our business success,” says Rowlinson MD, Donald Moore. “Rowlinson’s culture is built around the values of trust, care and ‘be better’, and empowering our people.” An employee-owned company since 2015, Rowlinson also holds the Investors in People Gold award, Workplace Wellbeing Charter National award for England and has won Best Employer of the Year at The Stockport Business Awards twice. —

STRICTLY SCHOOLWEAR This year’s Schoolwear Association (SA) fundraising evening to support the SA’s work for the industry is titled Strictly Schoolwear and will take a ballroom theme. Taking place after the first day of the Schoolwear Show on Sunday 15 October 2017 at the Village Hotel, Solihull, the event includes a three-course dinner, dancing, fundraising and the presentation of the inaugural SA Awards. Dress code is cocktail dress and black tie and tickets are £50 +VAT. For further information contact Marie Bradburn on 07817 844 692 or email mariebradburn@talktalk.net. —

— David Luke recently hosted a local clean-up event with Keep Britain Tidy’s Eco-Schools environmental education programme. The clean-up event included over 30 children from local schools, David Luke staff, representatives from Manchester City Council and Keep Britain Tidy ambassador Wayne Dixon. A long-time partner of EcoSchools, David Luke’s eco-uniform is made from recycled plastic bottles.

Term Footwear is launching its first UK collection of school shoes and warm wellington boots at the kids’ trade show Bubble London, which takes place on 16-17 July at the Business Design Centre, Islington. Designed in the UK by New Brands, a family run footwear company operating for seven years and specialising in children’s footwear, Term has been created to provide school shoes with great design, comfort and fit, but also styles that kids want to wear. The shoes are also designed with foot health as a priority, with styles available for boys and girls up to teenage. Term’s wellington boots, which are available in a choice of colours, feature a removable roll-top sock with a stitched insole, which keep feet warm, comfortable and supported in winter. When the socks are removed, the wellies are one EU size bigger, allowing the boots to grow with the child. —

TRUTEX’S FIGHT AGAINST BULLYING Since January, Trutex has been working in partnership with the Diana Award, the charity legacy to Princess Diana, and recently attended the ceremony held at St James’s Palace to mark 20 years since her death. There, 20 exceptional young people from across the world were recognised for their qualities of kindness, compassion and service. Trutex’s partnership with the Diana Award includes projects to defeat bullying; setting up sessions in schools around the UK and offering training to pupils from The Diana Award to become Anti-Bullying Ambassadors for their school. As part of the Anti-Bulling Partnership, Trutex has a hashtag – #bTRU2u – and a dedicated microsite, www.trutexbtru2u.co.uk, to inspire, empower, build confidence and raise young people’s self-esteem. —

— The 2017 Back to School collection from Kickers includes reflective elements for safety, cushion foam innersoles for comfort, scuff-resistant leather and durable uppers to stand up to schoolyard wear and tear. Other highlights include micro-fresh technologies to inhibit odourcausing bacteria and keep shoes smelling fresh.

— Complaints from female students at a New Zealand primary, who resisted wearing a skirt as part of their school uniform, has resulted in the school abolishing its gendered uniforms in place of shorts, a kilt and trousers, which can all be worn by either boys or girls.

JUNE/JULY 2017 - 55

CWB-ONLINE.CO | SA AWARDS

SA AWARDS 2017 Celebrating the best in the schoolwear industry — WHAT ARE THE SA AWARDS? In line with the Schoolwear Association’s (SA) 10th anniversary, this year will see the launch of the inaugural SA Awards designed to appreciate the endeavours of the many businesses that make up the association’s membership, highlight their achievements and celebrate their performances. —

SA AWARD CATEGORIES: Members are asked to nominate their business – or an employee – together with their reasons for the nomination, for one of the following award categories. —

BEST SCHOOLWEAR SPECIALIST Awarded to the best retailer or direct-to-school operation, irrespective of size. Judges are looking for strong financials, strong school relationships, excellent customer service, staff tenure and examples of going the extra mile or CSR. —

BEST SCHOOLWEAR SUPPLIER Awarded to the best manufacturer, importer or wholesaler, irrespective of size. Judges are looking for strong financials, excellent service, investment in people and technology, ethical credentials, innovative products and also stock holding and lead times. —

BEST DIGITAL SCHOOLWEAR Awarded to any business in the schoolwear marker – retailer, direct-to-school, manufacturer, importer or wholesaler – irrespective of size, who is a digital leader through a website, social media, and/or Epos. Judges are looking for quality, ease of use, engaging content and innovation. —

OUTSTANDING SERVICE TO SCHOOLWEAR Awarded to the individual who best exemplifies what the schoolwear trade is all about. Examples include a shop worker, warehouse operative, office administrator or sewing machinist. Judges will be looking for examples of an individual who goes above and beyond in their job role. —

JUDGING PROCESS: Award entries will be judged by an industry panel comprising Joyce Daly, former Schoolwear Show organiser; Laura Turner, editor of Schoolwear Buyer and CWB magazine; and Ken Scates, president of the National Childrenswear Association (NCWA). —

SA AWARDS 2017 BENEFITS: The winners of the SA Awards 2017 will be revealed at an awards presentation on Sunday 15 October at the SA fundraising evening following the first day of the Schoolwear Show. Taking a glamorous, ballroom theme, this year’s evening do, titled Strictly Schoolwear, will be hosted at the Village Hotel, Solihull and in addition to the awards, will include a three-course dinner and dancing. In addition to the award itself, winners and runners-up will receive a digital version for use online and in print for 12 months. All shortlisted entries will also receive a free ticket to the SA Awards 2017 presentation and coverage in CWB. 56 - JUNE/JULY 2017

“I am delighted to launch the SA Award ceremony,” says SA chair, David Burgess. “I believe that they will be successful in recognising achievements across the four chosen categories – Best Schoolwear Specialist, Best Schoolwear Supplier, Best Digital Schoolwear and Outstanding Service to Schoolwear – and will provide great motivation for the businesses that pride themselves on being a member of the Schoolwear Association.”

HOW TO APPLY: ENTRY TO THE AWARDS IS FREE AND CAN ONLY BE MADE BY SA MEMBERS. By now, all members should have received an emailed entry form. If not, please contact the Schoolwear Association on info@schoolwearassociation.co.uk. Closing date for entries: 28 July 2017 For further information on the SA Awards please email info@schoolwearassociation.co.uk or visit www.schoolwearassociation.co.uk.

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CWB-ONLINE.CO | REPORT

MEET THE MANUFACTURER British manufacturers of schoolwear showcase a spectrum of skills at London’s Meet the Manufacturer trade show. — Organised by Make it British, the campaign for UK manufacturing, Meet the Manufacturer is an annual sourcing event exclusively for British manufacturers and producers of clothing, textiles, fashion accessories, homewares and leather goods. Now in its fourth year, the 2017 edition on 24-25 May at London’s Old Truman Brewery, Brick Lane, was the biggest yet, covering 50,000 sq ft and playing host to 200 exhibitors and 5,000 visitors. Key events included a two-day programme of talks on partnerships, provenance and production and a series of live interactive workshops and demonstrations including leather bag construction, screen printing and pattern-cutting. CWB speaks to three British manufacturers of schoolwear who exhibited at the show to learn more. —

CHARLES KIRK Charles Kirk manufactures knitted garments and accessories for school, uniform, fashion and homeware that are designed in-house and can be personalised on the company’s own embroidery machines. With a host of new knitted fabrics on offer, Charles Kirk’s design and marketing specialist, Bianca Cantwell, reveals why Meet the Manufacturer has proved an ideal platform. Laura Turner: Why does Charles Kirk exhibit at Meet the Manufacturer? Bianca Cantwell: It is a great opportunity to celebrate UK manufacturing and showcase our school knitwear as well as new products that we’re developing. This is the second time we have exhibited, due to the very positive response we received last year. LT: What were you promoting at the event? BC: Over the past few months we have taken delivery of six new Stoll Knitting Machines and for this reason we were promoting a multitude of new knitted fabrics that we can offer, which include jacquard patterns and textured stitches. These new knitting machines also allow us to shape the panels to create garments, which not only reduces waste, but allows us to offer a higher-end cup seamed finish. As well as garments, these new technologies can also be applied to accessories and homewares, including cushions, blankets, scarves and pom-pom hats. As always, we were also promoting our in-house embroidery service, which adds an extra touch of personalisation. LT: In terms of UK manufacture, what benefits can you pass onto your clients? BC: Manufacturing in the UK means we have complete control over the design and production process, which in the end results in a high quality product. It also allows us to offer our customers small minimum quantities, 58 - JUNE/JULY 2017

starting at just 36 garments per order, six per size.

continuing to service our core schoolwear market to our usual high standard.

LT: What business leads have you secured through the show? BC: Since Meet the Manufacturer 2016, we have worked closely with an up-and-coming fashion designer on knitted pullovers and cardigans to add to her collection of tulle dresses and skirts. We have also been working on knitwear with a top designer who recently returned to the fashion scene with a new range.

LT: Is it becoming more common for schoolwear suppliers to supplement their businesses via additional services, products or brands? BC: Looking at many of the schoolwear brands, you can see how they have adapted to changing fashions in schoolwear over the years. We ourselves have introduced in-house embroidery and printing on both our own and other branded products. We are passionate about continuing to manufacture in the UK as more and more products are sourced overseas due to price pressure. By introducing new products and upgrading machinery, we will continue to manufacture in the UK, providing quality products for both the schoolwear, adult and childrenswear markets.

LT: What is Charles Kirk’s overall production ratio in terms of schoolwear and nonschoolwear manufacture? BC: Currently our non-schoolwear production is less than five per cent of our capacity, but we hope to grow this production slowly whilst

REPORT | CWB-ONLINE.CO

JOHN HALL ENGLAND LT: How did you discover Meet the Manufacturer? Matthew Easter: We came across the event several years ago and, at the time, were looking for ways to reach a broader customer base for John Hall outside of our traditional schoolwear market. As schoolwear is such a seasonal business, production demand to supply our customers also tends to follow that seasonality, which meant the business struggling to fill its production capacity for several months of the year. Consequently, we felt there was an opportunity for us to take on selected non-school customers to try to even out our production troughs. We have now exhibited at Meet the Manufacturer four times.

John Hall England specialises in bespoke clothing including schoolwear, childrenswear and high-end fashion as well as hand and machine pleating. With support from leading UK schoolwear supplier Trutex, it also offers a full design service. Trutex’s MD, Matthew Easter, explains how Meet the Manufacturer has helped John Hall England fill its capacity around seasonal schoolwear production over the last four years.

LT: What services do you promote at the show? ME: This year we showed a broad selection of the sort of garments that John Hall is able to produce in its UK factory; namely lighter weight woven garments such as shirts, blouses, skirts, trousers and dresses. We also promoted our in-house pleating capabilities, which were of interest to several luxury ladieswear brands. LT: In terms of UK manufacture, what can John Hall England offer? ME: John Hall benefits from being part of the larger Trutex business in terms of access to technical and sourcing expertise, as well as the option to invest for the long term. As such, we installed a state of the art Gerber system two

years ago, which allows us to digitise and cut in the most efficient way. Our in-house pattern cutters can also work with potential customers from initial design concept right through to finished garment. LT: What business have you generated through the event? ME: We have picked up a few good contacts at each Meet the Manufacturer show that we have attended, which have subsequently converted over time and developed into long term relationships. In fact, our biggest John Hall customer today is a luxury fashion brand, rather than a schoolwear customer. In general, the businesses that are interested in working with John Hall are ones that value a UK-made label as well as the proximity and benefit of being able to visit us without getting on a plane. The devaluation of the pound following the Brexit referendum result last June has also tipped the economics in our favour to an extent. LT: Is demand for UK manufacture increasing within the schoolwear sector? ME: Definitely. As a result of increasing off-shore costs and decreasing flexibility, several schoolwear customers have talked to us about their more bespoke business again. Whilst several years ago, the differential between the cost of UK-made and imported clothing was quite large, this gap has narrowed significantly and we can be quite competitive on certain garments.

DEE KAY KNITWEAR With over 25 years’ experience, Dee Kay Knitwear provides a full service from design to manufacture. Working with high street stores, online retailers and wholesalers, the business specialises in manufacturing schoolwear, fashion and homeware. The company’s director, Arun Bagga, discusses why he has returned to the show for a second year. LT: Why did you choose to exhibit at Meet the Manufacturer 2017? Arun Bagga: We first exhibited at Meet the Manufacturer in 2016, so this was our second year exhibiting at the show. The main factors that drew us back were the opportunities to connect with prospective customers, being able to give clients a chance to feel the quality of our product in person, to learn about what is working in the market and of course, to help promote and support British manufacturing. LT: What UK manufactured products were you promoting? AB: School knitwear and children’s and ladies’ knitwear. LT: What services can you offer clients as a UK manufacturer? AB: We can manufacture 100 per cent acrylic and 50/50 cotton acrylic garments. Our lead times are one to three weeks, depending on the size of the order. We can provide

embroidery and have the ability to hold stock for customers available for immediate call off. We also offer very competitive prices. LT: What is your production ratio in terms of schoolwear and non-schoolwear garments? AB: It is currently 30/70, but we would like to increase our schoolwear ratio. LT: What contacts have you made through Meet the Manufacturer? AB: Schoolwear retailers and buyers,

designers, high street retailers and online retailers. LT: Do you feel it is becoming more common for schoolwear suppliers to supplement their businesses via additional services, products, brands? AB: Yes. We manufacture men’s, ladies’ and children’s knitwear during the off season and have the most up-to-date machinery capable of producing a wide variety of products. JUNE/JULY 2017 -59

CWB-ONLINE.CO | INFORMATION

NAMES & NUMBERS: A Angel’s Face 01732 823700 www.angels-face.co.uk • Annaliv 07736 941181 www.annaliv.co.uk • Atelier Choux 0033 6848 16543 www.atelierchoux.com B Babiators 01276 408494 www.naturalbabyshower.co.uk • Babidu 0034 9623 83592 www.babidu.com • Baby Gi 00351 9119 90753 www.babygi.pt • Barn of Monkeys 00351 252 020 430 www.barnofmonkeys.com • Becky Baur 07890 452268 www.beckybaur.co.uk • Bibi 07712 647298 www.bibi.com/en/ • Bira 0800 028 0245 www.bira.co.uk • Blade & Rose 01539 730880 www.bladeandrose.co.uk • Bobux 01280 701683 www.bobux.co.uk • Bogoleta Couture 00351 2240 68497 www.bogoletacouture.com • Born Bespoke 07968 199284 www.bornbespoke.com • Bullabaloo 07795 101712 www.bullabaloo.com C Carlie Grace 07891 662868 www.carliegrace.com • Charles Kirk 01903 244863 www.charleskirk.co.uk • Cooee Kids info@cooee-kids.com www.cooee-kids.com • Cribstar 07841 356385 www.cribstar.co.uk D David Luke 0161 2727474 www.davidluketrade.com • Dee Kay Knitwear 0116 253 7560 www.deekayknitwear.com • Dolly by Le Petit Tom 0031 202620288 www. lepetittom.nl • Doodle Do 01923 820411 www.ilovedoodledo.com • Dyoministyling 0034 6677 11786 www.dyoministyling.com E Emile et Rose 01392 677555 www.emile-et-rose.co.uk • Ems for Kids www.ems4kidseardefenders.co.uk • Ewan the Dream Sheep 02392 262332 www.sweetdreamers.co.uk F Flakiki www.flakiki.com • Flibberty 07807 274821 www.flibberty.com • Forivor info@forivor.com www.forivor.com • Fred & Noah www.fredandnoah.com • Frugi 01326 558462 www.frugiwholesale.com • Froddo 07796 766669 www.kidsnewshoes.com G Gertie the Good Goose 02392 262332 www.sweetdreamers.co.uk • Grace Baby & Child 00351 9180 59978 www.gracebabyandchild.com I

Inevitabile 0032 4608 40026 www.inevitabile.com

J John Hall England 01200 421205 www.johnhallengland.co.uk • Joules www.joules.com • Ju-Ju-Be 0031 6290 80862 www.ju-ju-be.com K Kite Clothing 01202 733222 www.kite-kids.co.uk • Knoknoknok 0034 6509 06141 www.deunoadiez.com • Kokacharm 0082 1041 761085 www.kokacharm.com

SUBSCRIP TION: CURIOUS ORANJ

L Lea & Jojo 0041 792019098 www.leajojo.com • Lilly + Sid 0843 2896 534 www. lillyandsid.com • Little Lord & Lady 07734 357865 www.littlelordandlady.co.uk • Little Mouse 0037 6826 9132 info@littlemouse.lt • Love & Honor 0033 6171 62688 www.loveandhonor.co • Love Nonku Handmade 07982 905385 www.lovenonku.com M Mama Designs 0121 366 0267 www.mamascarf.co.uk • MarMar Copenhagen 07855 509069 www.breitensteins.com • Milly’O 07743 933078 www.millyo.co.uk • Minijammies 07779 146051 www.cyberjammies.com • Mini & Lulu 07974 453960 www.mimiandlula.com • Mini Melissa 020 7377 2570 www.melissahoe.com.br • Moccstars 020 77364022 www.moccstars.com • Monty & Co. 07920 023290 www.montyandco.com • Mori 028 2502 2149 www.babymori.com N Nens 0034 9666 15197 www.nens.es • Nikiani 07958 510521 www.happymummy.com • Noé and Zoë 020 3137 3503 www.vida-kids.co.uk • Nor-Folk 07788 707555 www.nor-folk.com

EU £55 (inc. p&p) Outside EU £94 (inc. p&p)

P Patachou 00351 2553 40860 www.patachou.com • Pigeon 01865 379230 www.pigeonorganics.com • Plumebleu 0039 3409 397123 www.plumebleu.com

NCWA & The Schoolwear Association members in EU £27 (inc. p&p)

R Rachel Riley 020 793 57007 www.rachelriley.co.uk • Rockahula Kids 01462 429744 www.rockahulakids.com • Rowlinson Knitwear 0161 477 7791 www.rowlinson-knitwear.com

NCWA & The Schoolwear Association members outside EU £50 (inc. p&p)

S Schoolwear Association www.schoolwearassociation.co.uk • Solobi 07711 746276 www.solobi.co.uk • Sonny Angel 0034 6509 06141 www.deunoadiez.com • Sproet & Sprout 020 3137 3503 www.vida-kids.co.uk • Start-rite Shoes 0344 561 7263 www.startriteshoes.com • Story 07812 159639 www.wearestory.co.uk

To subscribe simply call us on: +44 (0)1484 846069 or email: data@ras-publishing.com

T Term Footwear 01202 578 900 www.termfootwear.com • That’s Mine 0045 3161 9160 www.thatsmine.dk • The Jam Tart 0191 908 6253 www.thejamtart.co.uk • Trutex 01200 421 2000 www.trutex.com • Twisted Twee 020 7482 0746 www.twistedtwee.co.uk U Uzturre *U-Babies 0034 9436 91674 www.uzturre.es W Wex Baby 07515 032224 www.wexbaby.co.uk • Wild Things 07976 697435 www. wildthingsdresses.com X XOKiddo 07397 525527 www.xokiddo.co.uk Z Zuma the Dog 01458 833427 www.zumathedog.com

60 - JUNE/JULY 2017

DIRECTORY | CWB-ONLINE.CO

ACCESSORIES

DISTRIBUTOR WANTED

SCHOOL TIES

Balloon Bijoux Girls hair & fashion accessories for all ages www.balloonbijoux.co.uk

New organic label with a unique concept are looking for a distributor in the UK.

TO ADVERTISE IN THE CWB DIRECTORY PLEASE CALL MICHELE ON

0208 207 2500 info@balloonbijoux.co.uk

01484 848337

Balloon Bijoux The Telegraph(UK) March 2015 “I am impressed by this organic babywear brand”.

OR EMAIL MICHELE @RAS-PUBLISHING.COM

Tel: +31(0)30 7514025 Email: natalie@daddyproof.nl www.daddyproofkidswear.com

www.candybows.co.uk Hand tied, classic hair bows for school, parties & everyday.

SCHOOLWEAR

AGENCY

ORCHARD AGENCY

Pettiskirts, dresses, baby onesies, tutus, wings & wands & t-shirts.

Chris, Carol, Lisa & Ray are the team behind Orchard, a leading second generation childrens clothing agency in the UK, with expertise in London and the South East. Orchard Agency, 28 Fourth Avenue, Frinton-on-Sea, Essex CO13 9DX Tel: 01255 674301 Email: chris@orchardagency.co.uk carol&ray@orchardagency.co.uk

CWB BUSINESS DIRECTORY

BABY & KIDS SHOES

WELDON AGENCIES SCHOOL TIES

TIE & SCARF COMPANY

The specialist in

SCHOOL TIES plus badges

Established for over 25 years, two generations, covering all areas of the UK. Representing leading brands from Europe, Canada and Russia. Catering for boys and girls 0 to 16 years. Styling from contemporary to traditional. FUN & FUN, LE CHIC, DEUX PAR DEUX, FOQUE, SARDON, LARANJINHA, JEYCAT, GULLIVER Weldon Agencies, Southport, Merseyside Tel: 01704 576033 Email: barrieweldon@btconnect.com, andrewweldon@btconnect.com www.weldonagencies.co.uk

VANHUIZEN AGENCIES

TO ADVERTISE IN THE CWB DIRECTORY PLEASE CALL MICHELE ON

01484 848337 OR EMAIL MICHELE @RAS-PUBLISHING.COM

Warth Industrial Park, Warth Road, Bury BL9 9NB Tel: 0161 761 5151 Fax: 0161 762 0202 Email: tieandscarf@chaytow.com Web: www.tieandscarf.co.uk

Van Huizen Agencies is a young, fresh and vibrant agency, for the more discerning retailer requiring beautiful and unique collections. OILILY KIDS, ROOM SEVEN KIDS, RAP KIDS SHOES Unit 12, Derwent Business center, Clarke Street, DERBY DE1 2BU Tel: 07967 560633 Email: franck@vanhuizenagencies.co.uk www.vanhuizenagencies.co.uk

JUNE/JULY 2017 - 61

CWB-ONLINE.CO | TALKING POINT

KEELY DEININGER Designer and owner, Angel’s Face Keely Deininger has worked as a designer for suppliers of top brands such as H&M and Topshop and was design director at the main fashion supplier for Marks and Spencer. Despite her success, Deininger’s lifelong dream was to start her own business. So in 2007 the mother of three launched Angel’s Face, a label based in London specialising in tutu petti skirts. Ten years on, it’s safe to say Deininger has fulfilled her ambition, with Angel’s Face now offering a full blown fashion collection. Laura Turner finds out what’s next for the brand. —

LT: What does the Angel’s Face collection now encompass? KD: It includes tops, T-shirts, leggings, dresses, hair accessories, shoes, knitwear, swimwear and denim. The most recent addition to the collection is coats, which will be launched for a/w 17. LT: What can we expect from the new s/s 18 collection? KD: The hero pieces from our s/s 18 collection are a crystal collared jumper and a gold pocket cardigan. Key colours are banana shake and peach sorbet, and new to the collection is a gold foil print chiffon. Our age range is now 0–13 years, so it’s exciting to think that baby girls who were wearing our brand when it launched back in 2007 have been able to grow up being able to wear our garments throughout their childhood years.

LT: Are you doing anything to mark the brand’s 10th anniversary this year? KD: Yes, absolutely: we have lots of exciting things planned to mark this milestone which will mainly comprise customer engagement activities through our social media platforms. And I’m sure there will be a party thrown in there, too. LT: Tell us something nobody else knows about Angel’s Face… KD: We believe in magic…

LT: Who do you see as your target market? KD: Fun-loving people. Laura Turner: What course of events led to you launching Angel’s Face back in 2007? And why tutus? Keely Deininger: I already had a childrenswear brand called Little Linens, which was purely a summer range for boys and girls, and I wanted to have a collection that could be sold all year round. I bought my daughter Trinity a tutu with a floral waistband from FAO Schwarz in New York in 2005 and although she was only one at the time, she absolutely adored it. It reminded me of when I was a child and believed a garment to be something magical – and this is what inspired me to start Angel’s Face. LT: Was the plan to eventually develop the brand into a full fashion line? KD: It was always my intention. We used the tutu as a vehicle to get the brand recognition established and once we had over 100 stores stocking our tutus, we started to expand the range. We believe that every piece in the collection still holds the same magic as the original tutu did in the beginning. 62 - JUNE/JULY 2017

LT: How many accounts does Angel’s Face have and which are your best performing counties? KD: We have 30 strong accounts in the UK and 400 worldwide. Our top performing counties are China, Italy, Greece and then the Middle East, which is a growing market for the brand. LT: Where are you looking to next in terms of new markets? KD: Definitely the USA as well as France and the Middle East. LT: Where do you see Angel’s Face in another five years’ time? KD: Being a £5 million turnover business.

“ The hero pieces from our s/s 18 collection are a crystal collared jumper and a gold pocket cardigan. Key colours are banana shake and peach sorbet, and new to the collection is a gold foil print chiffon.”