MWB MAGAZINE AUGUST 2017 ISSUE 242 by fashion buyers Ltd

ISSUE 242 | AUGUST 2017 | Â£6.95 MWB-ONLINE.CO

MODA UK: NEW LABELS TO DISCOVER, PLUS EXPERTS TACKLING ISSUES AFFECTING YOUR BUSINESS WE TAKE A LOOK AROUND THE BRAND NEW HOME OF OPTIONS DISTRIBUTION OUR SEASONAL SHOOT WELCOMES THE RETURN OF THE DANDY

SeeSee us at us MODA at MODA GENT GENT NEC NEC Birmingham Birmingham 6th6th – 8th – 8th August August Stand Stand N30 N30 FOR MORE FOR MORE INFORMATION INFORMATION CONTACT CONTACT US TODAY US TODAY ON ON

01130113 240240 22112211 INFO@SKOPES.COM INFO@SKOPES.COM

Bertoni - Stand N41

Signal - Stand N49

Come and see us at Moda, NEC Birmingham 6th - 8th August 2017 Love Brands Limited. Tel: +44 (0)20 7702 0203 Mobile: 07810872320 Email: ward@lovebrandsuk.com Email: sales@lovebrandsuk.com www.lovebrandsuk.com Taking appointments for SS18

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | CONTENTS | 05

F E A T U R E S 10

Online Insider

Advice, news and issues online

Retail Insider

The latest in-store news

Business advice

How millennials are changing the retail landscape

Product News

Rounding up the key stories this month

In-season stock

Have a word

The edit

Accessories and add-ons to consider in-store

Moda

The brands to discover in tailoring, casual clothing and beachwear for s/s 18

Moda Footwear

The must-see brands to catch at the UK’s largest footwear trade fair

Moda What’s On

Your guide to the catwalk shows, business seminars and workshops

Changing times at Options

Looking at the next chapter for the UK agency

So !Solid Crew

Profiling young Danish brand !Solid

Insta’ moments from Berlin

The products that caught our eye at SEEK & Bright

Fine and dandy

Our seasonal shoot focusing on tailoring and formalwear

Top of the crop

Previewing home & gift show Top Drawer

From swimwear to flannels

Meeting the man behind British label Hemingsworth

R E G U L A R S 7 8 16

Comment News Interview

Andrew Thomson

60 63 66

Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With…

Georg Weissacher

Front cover:

Scott the Label 01405 782830

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | COMMENT | 07

COMMENT E D I T O R Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com — D E P U T Y

E D I T O R

Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — C O N T R I B U T O R S Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — D E S I G N E R S Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — S E N I O R

S A L E S

M A N A G E R

Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — S U B S C R I P T I O N S Phil Cowley phil.cowley@moda-exhibitions.co.uk — H E A D

O F

M E N S W E A R

Silvia Collins silvia@moda-uk.co.uk — E D I T O R I A L

D I R E C T O R

Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — P O R T F O L I O

D I R E C T O R

Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — M A R K E T I N G

D I R E C T O R

Stephanie Parker stephanie@ite-exhibitions.co.uk —

MWB is published 6 times per year by ITE Moda Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2017 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither ITE Moda Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication. Reprographics/printing Image Colourprint 01482 652323 —

With the ONS (Office of National Statistics) predicting a 10.6 per cent growth in the population of men aged 55 and above between 2016 and 2021, and 60 per cent of older men aged 65+ describing their finances as healthy, is it about time the industry capitalised on the potential of the grey pound? — A report by data analysts Mintel was published recently, shedding light on the shopping habits of the older male demographic. Whilst the findings above show there is certainly money to be spent within this category, it also reveals that men aged 55+ remain the least keen clothes shoppers, with 18 per cent not having bought clothes for themselves in the last 12 months. As David Evans, the man behind the successful Grey Fox Blog, explained recently, it’s a chicken and egg situation. “I’m convinced that many older men show no interest in clothes shopping because the industry ignores them. If all a man sees are menswear adverts showing models in their 20s, they’re going to assume that there’s nothing there for them,” writes Evans. However, the report identifies that times are slowly changing, with consumers who have been under-represented in the past – baby boomers included – gaining a greater voice. Several brands and retailers have been responding to this trend by using a more diverse range of models of different ages, sizes and ethnicities. Among those using older models in their menswear campaigns are Rag & Bone, who featured 65 year-old Mark Hamill – Luke Skywalker in the Star Wars films – in its a/w 17 imagery. Meanwhile, actor Robert De Niro is the face of premium menswear brand Ermenegildo Zegna, while 43 year-old Moonlight actor Mahershala Ali recently starred in the s/s 17 campaign for iconic underwear label Calvin Klein. As the male population ages, it’s clear to see retailers need to focus on encouraging older men to take a greater interest in their appearance and what they wear. The study did reveal however, that once a male shopper, aged 55+, decides he likes your store and what you offer, they tend to be more loyal, shopping at only one or two retailers in-store and one retailer online. Food for thought perhaps. Finally, as Moda approaches this weekend (6-8 August), this issue of MWB not only showcases the brands we think will whet your buying appetite, but also the standout product to be found at the show in our seasonal photoshoot, Fine and Dandy, on p46. Have a fantastic month and don’t forget to keep up to date with daily news, features and interviews in between issues on our new website, mwb-online.co. Victoria Jackson Editor

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by ITE Moda Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. ITE Moda Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | NEWS | 08

N E W S

CLOTHING LEADS WAY IN SMARTPHONE SPEND

BREXIT HAS NEGATIVELY IMPACTED BUSINESS SAY BRITISH SMES Sixty-two per cent of British SMEs voted to remain in the EU during last year’s referendum, a recent survey by small business lender Liberis has revealed. The survey asked over 500 UK small business owners how they voted in the 2016 EU Referendum and what effects Brexit has already had on their business. Since negotiations to leave the European Union began, 41 per cent of those surveyed said that they have felt a negative impact due to Brexit. Product sourcing and services have been hit the hardest, with 27 per cent of businesses citing these areas a struggle since the leave vote. Almost two thirds of those surveyed said they voted to remain in the EU, with the IT, online and marketing sectors comprising 77 per cent of this total – more than any other sector. Of business owners who voted to leave the EU, retail was the sector who voted to leave the most at 17 per cent, suggesting that access to the free market might not be as important to UK retailers. According to the survey, the highest earning businesses, with a turnover of over £1m a year, voted to leave the EU more than any other, at 30 per cent. At the opposite end of the spectrum, 60 per cent of micro businesses, with a turnover of up to £50,000, voted to remain. 41 per cent of those polled said that the triggering of Article 50 has had a ‘negative effect’ on their business. However, 54 per cent revealed they haven’t felt any positive or negative effects on their business. When asked which areas of their businesses have been negatively affected by the decision to leave, 27 per cent of SMEs surveyed said that product and service sourcing has suffered, with bottom line also being negatively affected by the referendum results at 24 per cent. When asked which areas of their business have been positively affected by Brexit – including sales or leads, business relationships, bottom line, business development, product or service sourcing and hiring staff – 76 per cent said ‘none of the above’ have been positively affected, with only 12 per cent saying sales and leads have benefited. The survey also found that 65 per cent of respondents don’t believe leaving the European Union will affect their business’s ability to hire staff. Businesses, who said they import and export, were split on how leaving the EU would affect their ability to source products, services or materials at a reasonable price with 52 per cent assuming a negative impact. —

Spend via smartphones will outperform spend via tablets, accounting for 51.5 per cent of the UK mobile and tablet market in 2018, according to research and consulting firm GlobalData. Clothing and footwear categories lead the way and are set to account for 42 per cent of all smartphone spend in 2020. The company’s latest report reveals that sales of tablet devices are declining; consequently, spend via smartphones is set to grow 112 per cent in the next five years. Key sectors aiding market acceleration are clothing and footwear, which has the highest proportion of sales on smartphone, and food and grocery, expected to be the fastest growing smartphone sales sector to 2022. GlobalData’s report states that shopper behaviour has shifted over the last five years, with smartphones now the go-to information source for shopping, banking and checking train schedules. —

GABICCI CO-FOUNDERS PASS AWAY WITHIN DAYS The joint founders of the Gabicci brand (s/s 18 pictured), Jack Sofier and Alex Pyser, both passed away within days of each other earlier this month. The friends, aged 85 and 83 respectively, were key figures in the trade throughout the 70s, 80s and 90s. Having learned their craft in the menswear industry, with Sofier working as an agent and Pyser within wholesale, Gabicci was founded in 1973, given its name following a trip by Sofier and his wife Maureen to the Italian seaside town of Gabicce Mare. Pyser retired from the business in 1991 and Sofier retired in 1997. Pyser passed away on 30 June and is survived by his wife Marilyn, two children and three grandchildren. Sofier followed four days later and is survived by Maureen, two daughters, two grandchildren and two great grandchildren. —

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | NEWS | 09

NEWS IN BRIEF

LOVE BRANDS LAUNCHES INTO MENSWEAR

PALLADIUM UNVEILS RAEBURN COLLABORATION

Established UK fashion agency Love Brands is making its first foray into the menswear industry, adding Danish lifestyle labels Signal and Bertoni to its roster of labels. The brands will be overseen by newly appointed head of menswear Ward Mann. “I’m delighted to be working with Michael and Hugo at Love Brands,” says Mann. “They have a great track record in developing brands in the UK and a highly professional outlook in development with customers in all sectors, from independents through to regional local hero stores, department stores and major online retailers. This will be a great addition to the UK’s menswear offering.” Love Brands will present both Signal and Bertoni at this month’s Moda Gent, taking place on 6-8 August. Visit www.moda-uk.co.uk to register for the show. —

French footwear label Palladium has collaborated with London designer Christopher Raeburn for s/s 18, embracing Raeburn’s 'recycled' design manifesto. Divided into three product stories, the new dual-gender capsule collection references the design aesthetic of Raeburn’s s/s 18 apparel offering, while remaining sincere to Palladium’s roots in function-first utility and exploration. Signature Raeburn details include mesh-like knits, recycled fabrics and emergency orange pulltabs, integrated into Palladium’s classic silhouettes. The heels of each boot feature a new reflective logo which integrates the spelling of Raeburn and Palladium to create PALLAEDIUM. Each boot also features recycled rubber patches, featuring both parties' branding. —

INDIE MENSWEAR STORE THE PRIORY SOLD

SALES SOAR AT ONLINE GIANT ASOS

Independent premium menswear store The Priory has been acquired by Internet Fusion for an undisclosed sum. Internet Fusion owns a number of established retail platforms, with The Priory joining names such as Blackleaf and Night Gear. Based in the coastal town of Bridlington, with a strong online presence alongside its bricks and mortar shop, The Priory stocks brands such as Norse Projects, Nanamica, Clarks Originals, Woolrich and Folk. Co-founders Vince Clark and Leo Jarvis will continue to run the successful business as it is now. “Clark and Jarvis are now part of the Fusion family and will be instrumental in the growth and future direction of the business,” says Martin Brailsford, CEO of Internet Fusion. “We look forward to bringing our customers an even greater selection of some of the world’s most premium fashion brands, backed up by the Fusion platform,” he adds. —

Sales at online fashion giant Asos rose to £660.1m for the four months to 30 June, driven by international sales growth of 44 per cent to £425.5m and 16 per cent in the UK to £234.6. Based on this result, growth is expected to be at the upper end of the 30 per cent to 35 per cent range. The company reports continued strong customer engagement, with active customers up by 25 per cent, average basket value recording growth of 3 per cent and average order frequency up by 6 per cent. Asos shipped a total of 16.9m orders, a jump of 28 per cent year-on-year. “Strong H1 sales momentum has continued through the third period supported by our ongoing investment in our customer proposition and in price," says Nick Beighton, Asos CEO. "This good performance has been underpinned by advances across all areas of our business.” —

FALKE APPOINTS NEW CEO Martin Winkler has been appointed as the new CEO of hosiery specialists Falke Group. Winkler comes from LG Electronics where he was chief operating officer being responsible for the Consumer Business in Germany. Previously he worked for 10 years in various leading marketing and sales positions for the Sony Group. “Martin is a proven expert in marketing and sales. His special knowledge and experience as General Manager will be of tremendous importance for the strategic focus of the Falke Group and further internationalisation of the brands Falke and Burlington,” says Paul Falke, CEO. “His in-depth attainments of the highly innovative Consumer Electronics-, IT- and mobile-market are excellent prerequisites to further develop our company in the complex field of digitisation.” — UK CONSUMERS WILL ERASE PERSONAL DATA FROM RETAILERS Nearly half (48 per cent) of UK adults plan to activate new rights over their personal data, according to a poll of 2,000 UK adults commissioned by software solutions company SAS. The survey explored the nation’s sentiment towards upcoming legislative change that empowers consumers with new rights over how their personal data is handled by organisations. Fifteen per cent of adults polled expressed their intention to activate their new rights in the same month that the General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR) comes into force on 25 May 2018. The 45-54 year-old age group is most likely to issue a request, with just over one in five (21 per cent) thinking they will activate their new rights in the first month. The propensity to submit a request drops to 13 per cent in the 18-24 year-old age category. There are regional variations, with adults in the north east and south east more inclined to submit a request within the first month (18 per cent). This drops to 12 per cent in Wales, 11 per cent in the east of England and just 7 per cent in Northern Ireland. — BRAND ATTIC CELEBRATES SECOND BIRTHDAY WITH FURTHER GROWTH Manchester online fashion house Brand Attic is celebrating its second birthday with an 809 per cent rise in revenue yearon-year, a recruitment drive and the launch of its first ever own-brand offering in 2017. The business credits its fast growth with an innovative marketing strategy and data-driven trends analysis, focusing largely on the use of high-profile influencers to boost brand awareness among the target audience of 25-34 year-olds. From its headquarters in Eccles, Greater Manchester, the online retailer supplies over 30 leading labels including Fashion Union, Wal G, Neon Rose and AX Paris, and will add the likes of TFNC and DKNY to its portfolio later this year. It will also bring its private label to market for the first time in October, providing customers with a capsule wardrobe that is on-trend and competitively priced. The company has already recruited seven new members of staff in 2017 and plans to expand further, drawing on the wealth of talent in the fashion and retail industry in Manchester and the north west. —

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | ADVICE | 10

ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.

ADVICE: THE PRICE IS RIGHT: FASHION CONSUMERS NOT PREPARED TO MISS A BARGAIN

MARKUS JUHR-DE BENEDETTI, CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER AT BLUE YONDER

Online consumers are becoming more strategic and clear on just how much they are prepared to pay for an item thanks to increased price visibility, discount days such as Black Friday, and extended promotions. Fashion retailers and brands are therefore under pressure to balance discount offers to meet customer expectations and maintain a profit margin. If a product is not discounted enough, retailers risk leaving customers dissatisfied and turning to competitors instead. Our recent research among 4,000 consumers across the UK, US, France and Germany found that 79 per cent of international fashion shoppers are unhappy when the item they want in the sale has sold out or only fringe sizes are available. More than a quarter of consumers (28 per cent) were equally unhappy in the UK if their size wasn’t available – this rises to 38 per cent globally. More than half (51 per cent) of UK shoppers are disappointed if the colour they want is not available in a sale and 40 per cent of UK women are very disappointed if the item they want is sold out vs 22 per cent of men. This shows that retailers need granular data to understand their customers, how much they want to spend, what they would prefer to spend their money on and when. If retailers initially offered the right product at the right price, consumers would be more likely to make purchases at full price to avoid missing out on the latest fashion must-haves in the size and colour of their choice. The offer must be compelling enough, however, to encourage consumers to change the way they shop and not wait for the sales. Customer expectations are forcing retailers to embrace and implement new technologies to be able to satisfy demands. Price visibility has increased, leaving few places to hide when it comes to offering the best deals possible to customers for fashion items. Retailers need to utilise these technology innovations to their advantage so they can optimise pricing to ensure the customer pays the best price possible daily, whilst balancing it against their own business goals. —

WEB WATCH

MWB-ONLINE.CO Launching last month, it was only right that this month’s web watch focused on the online arm of MWB. With a brand new mobile first design, concentrating on the key stories, trends and issues within the independent menswear trade, the site is visually led and includes an online version of each print issue. Readers can also subscribe to the successful Sunday Supplement newsletter with a round-up of the week’s top stories in the industry. —

NEWS

ZALANDO LAUNCHES PREMIUM MEMBERSHIP PROGRAM Online e-tailer Zalando has unveiled plans to launch Zalando Zet, an incentive offering customised premium services such as the pick-up of returns on demand and direct access to stylists and experts. Currently launching the first phase in four cities in its native Germany, including Berlin, Leipzig, Frankfurt and Hannover, the new program is available by online invite. The benefits of Zalando Zet include early access to sales, same day delivery, dedicated customer service and a new return-on-demand service which gives customers the opportunity to have returns picked up within two hours, at a time and place convenient to them. “To make it as easy as possible to buy fashion online, Zalando constantly invests into customers by piloting new and innovative services and partnering with brands and retailers,” says David Schröder, senior vice president convenience at Zalando. “Zalando Zet is the next step within our strategy of providing an even more frictionless shopping experience, tailored to fashion.” Lisa Schöner, head of Zalando Zet, adds: “Service is key to our customers. Zalando Zet combines the best of both online and offline shopping: Customers receive orders faster and return items easier. “Furthermore, Zalando Zet adds a personal experience, as customers can ask Zalando about the latest trends or if they are unsure how to combine the shirt they just ordered.” The initial phase of the rollout will see customers test the service for free for three months, and after that they can choose to become members for €19 a year. —

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 12

RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry. —

ADVICE THE FUNDAMENTALS OF MARKETING YOUR STORE CORRECTLY Emily Beardsworth is the founder of May Creative Marketing and can be contacted via info@ maycreativemarketing.com.

JD SPORTS TO OPEN GLASGOW FLAGSHIP Sports fashion retailer JD Sports is to open a regional flagship with the Silverburn shopping centre, Glasgow, in November this year. Retaining the existing location and expanding into the neighbouring unit, the brand’s new store will cover 820 sq m on the ground floor and 372 sq m on the first floor, nearly doubling the size of the original store. Designed by an in-house team, the new and improved store will incorporate the latest fit out plans being rolled out across JD Sports stores. “It’s great to see JD Sports significantly increase its offering with the brand new flagship store, mirroring a wider trend in which internationally renowned brands are prioritising larger, experiential stores in prime venues,” says Iain Mitchell, UK commercial director at retail manager and developer Hammerson. “The brand’s desire to upsize is a result of its successful performance at Silverburn and is a reflection of the centre’s position as the region’s leading retail and leisure destination.” —

NEWS IN BRIEF ARKET TO OPEN IN AUGUST Arket, the latest development from the H&M Group, is set to open its first UK store on Regent Street, London, next month. The retail concept will offers products for men, women, children and the home, made up of Arket’s own lines as well as brands such as Adidas, Nike, Diemme, Hestra and Tricker. Each flagship will also have a vegetarian cafe. The new store will open on 25 August. —

NEW BOND STREET NAMED FASTEST-GROWING PRIME RETAIL LOCATION According to CBRE’s biannual Global Prime Retail Rents report, London’s New Bond Street has been named the fastest-growing prime retail location in the world. Home to brands such as Chanel, Dior, Harry Winston, Hermes, Belstaff and Canali, prime rental growth on New Bond Street has grown 39.1 percent in Q1 2017, compared to the same period last year. The area is also ranked second among the world’s top 10 most expensive retail locations, with 1,753 dollars per square foot per year in Q1 2017. —

The most common question I get asked is how to market a new brand or store effectively. This may seem like marketing 101 to many, but the basics are often overlooked. Whether it’s a shop or a new clothing range, the answers are the same: Pinpoint your target audience, organise a photoshoot and join social platforms. Who is your target customer? Ask yourself this question every day. Marketing content needs to be tailored to your audience to get the most out of any campaign, otherwise it will get lost in the online ocean. In today’s world of Facebook and Instagram, Pinterest and websites, the image is king. Your brand’s images will grab your customers’ attention – but that is not always as easy as it sounds. We can be exposed to up to 5,000 marketing images every single day, so you need to pay great attention to what catches your customers eye. So now the images have been created, how can they to be used to the best possible effect? Worldwide, over 2.7 billion of us are active social media users, with way over half of us using the platforms on a daily basis. Can you now think of a more effective way to reach that many people? Again, like a broken record, knowing your target audience is key here. Unfortunately not all of those 2.7 billion people are going to be interested in your brand, so don’t spend your valuable time producing content that is just going to be ignored. Great images will attract your audience and clever use of the content will drive customers to your brand or website and increase profits more effectively than any other tool. www.maycreativemarketing.com

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 13

SHOPPED: JASON ODY How has this year’s trading been for you so far? It’s about level with last year, but there’s no pattern at all. Saturday is still the strongest day. We have two shops – one in the city centre, and one in the suburbs, in a village called Tettenhall. That one we’ve had for 30 years, and the shop in the city centre we’ve had for 20 years. They’re two very different businesses, as the shop in the centre caters more for an 18-35 year-old customer who is looking for something new to wear for going out, whereas the Tettenhall shop caters for more of a 25-55 yearold customer who’s probably settled down with his partner. JASON ODY, OWNER, LE MONDE, They are both ticking along, but we are losing a lot of WOLVERHAMPTON business to Birmingham at the moment as the major new redevelopment in Wolverhampton is still going on. Hopefully, when that is complete, we will start to see a boost in sales as local customers maybe won’t feel the need to travel further afield. — Is anything particular affecting business? I think Brexit is having a bit of an impact, because it’s created uncertainty and prices are going up – we’re all seeing that, and people are a little worried. Prices are certainly getting a bit scary at the top end of the market. The brands that are more mature in the market, such as Stone Island, C.P. Company, Armani Jeans, Polo Ralph Lauren and Moschino are still proving easier to sell than the less established names though. Billionaire Boys Club also does well for us, and Champion has been a successful addition. —

IN FOCUS: VINCENT MENSWEAR 6 HUGHENDEN YARD, MARLBOROUGH, WILTSHIRE SN8 1LT

ESTABLISHED: 1996 BRANDS: REPLAY, FARAH, HAMAKI-HO, SSEINSE, LAGERFELD, HUDSON, PALLADIUM, CARE LABEL, GABICCI, PANTOFOLA D’ORO, ANDERSON’S, DSQUARED2, PARAJUMPERS, KOMONO, CALVIN KLEIN

FLANNELS LAUNCHES IN MEADOWHALL Meadowhall, Yorkshire’s premiere shopping destination, has announced the opening of leading luxury retailer Flannels. The newly launched 10,000 sq ft store is located in the Sheffield shopping centre’s prominent Park Lane mall and offers a range of premium men’s and women’s designer fashion from brands such as Vivienne Westwood, Hugo Boss, Stone Island, Belstaff and Paul Smith. It features a clean, contemporary design, which represents the retailer's aesthetics and design concept. “The excellent performance of Flannels reflects the strength of Meadowhall’s continued strategy to enhance the shopping environment and respond to changing consumer lifestyles,” says Richard Crowther, asset manager for British Land, joint owner of Meadowhall. “In line with this approach, the £60m refurbishment investment will continue to deliver exciting leading brands such as Flannels, to grow our retail line-up and appeal to shoppers.” —

NEWS IN BRIEF Vincent Menswear is a father and son operation, with father Vincent Assini, a tailor from Italy, doing bespoke and made-to-measure tailoring upstairs, while son Marco sells fashion brands on the ground floor. The businesses are run as one, and they do get a lot of customer crossover, having established themselves strongly in the Wiltshire area with a wide customer profile. With his Italian roots, Marco has always been very fond of Italian clothing and denim; Replay, DSquared2 and Parajumpers are also currently important brands. Social media sites such as Instagram have really helped with attracting more custom to the shop, while 23 year-old Robbie Barnes, who has been with the business for six years, has been an integral part of the team in helping with the buying and social media sides. Vincent Assini has been a tailor since 1981, and has a very large clientele, consisting of repeat business and many new customers, especially for weddings and business suits. He uses all the top English and Italian fabrics, such as Holland and Sherry, Scabal, Dugdale, Harris Tweeds, Dormeuil and Ermenegildo Zegna. In his varied past, he’s also made suits for Mods and Teddy Boys, as well as for stagewear. —

COLETTE CLOSES ITS DOORS AFTER 20 YEARS Leading Parisian department store Colette is to close its doors for the final time after two decades of trading. A statement on the store's website read: “As all good things must come to an end, after 20 wonderful years, Colette should be closing its doors on December 20th of this year.” According to reports, Saint Laurent is in talks with the store to take over the 8,000 sq ft location. —

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | ADVICE | 14

HOW MILLENNIALS ARE CHANGING THE RETAIL LANDSCAPE Ian Tomlinson takes a look at how millennials – those consumers born post-1982 – are keeping retailers on their toes with how, why and when they shop. — They have been using technology since their teens and have been privy to (and sometimes responsible for) the very latest digital advances in our lifetime. These are the 30-somethings born post-1982, who are tech-savvy, demanding and increasingly dictating the way we shop. They are millennials. Retailers are aware that these ‘Echo Boomers’ are wanting and needing more from their shopping experience. They need and want omnichannel because they know how to use it to best effect. They have different demands to their ‘Baby Boomer’ parents. They have shopped, communicated and socialised via technology for their entire lives and they have a greater need for technology that drives convenience and immediate fulfilment, without damaging their parents’ need for great customer service and that all-important in-store experience. MOBILE MOTIVATOR Not only do they expect to be able to pay, shop and browse on their mobile devices, millennials want to be able to see slick, presentable mobile EPOS systems in store. HP’s Natasja Andringa told RetailStore that one of the main thrusts of HP’s strategy is to introduce the brand new X3. She said: “The hardware we are introducing is more service orientated. We see the device as not only bringing payments closer to the customers but as a place to show products in other colours.” This will be music to millennials’ ears as they

demand greater efficiencies and less friction in store. Not only are more than half of them comparing prices on their mobile devices before they reach the store, they now respect and appreciate retailers who are switched on to the mobile era in bricks and mortar too. GET SOCIAL Retailers have been aware that being active on social media is by far one of the most important ways to connect and engage with this tech-savvy group. The retailers that are really making waves with millennials are the ones offering smart and easy e-commerce attached to some pretty clever CRM. Google shopping, eBay, Amazon, Facebook advertising, Instagram influencers and even Twitter geo-targeting: the ways in which millennials shop products and are urged to hit ‘Buy’ are heavily influenced by their peers, by celebrities, bloggers and good marketing. Reviews have their place too. Nearly three quarters of all consumers are likely to make a purchase based on a positive review, according to Hubspot. BE REAL Having a global and holistic view of stock and inventory is key to keeping millennials with you. Not only is knowing where stock is important for the business, but it is a critical function of any good omnichannel retailer. If you want a pair of size 6 loafers in bright blue, surely if you can

check if the retailer has them in your local store or can order them to click and collect, without dialling a customer services number and before leaving the house, you’re winning, right? Right. Millennials don’t want to know if you’ll be able to get it in next week or even the next few days; they want to know there and then. They want their information now. Cloud-based systems prevent any confusion and help retailers operate to meet these real-time demands, feeding a customer-driven distributed order management system based on behaviours rather than historical allocation. DO IT ALL Using one system where you can pay, another which deals with gift cards, a separate e-commerce site and a clunky returns system is a sure-fire way to frustrate this group. Millennials want ultimate flexibility, they want to know why they can’t get the same offer online as they do in store and most of all they want prices to be low and consistent. As a result, it’s important for retailers to expand their inventory management systems through the cloud, moving away from simply reacting to changing product demand with allocation and replenishment, towards really cracking product demand. — For interviews with Ian Tomlinson or any further questions please contact Laura Garner on 07551 466030 or email lauraanniegarner@gmail.com.

PLEASE CONTACT OUR AGENTS IN UK: Geoff Pascoe Tel: +44 (0)78 31102791 E-mail: geoff@verweij.com

David & Toby Snowdon Tel David: +44 (0)78 13212416 Tel Toby: +44 (0)78 54140027 E-mail: d.snowdon@verweij.com

HQ Address: Keienbergweg 103, 1101 GG, Amsterdam ZO The Netherlands website: www.verweij.com

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | INTERVIEW | 16

INTERVIEW

ANDREW THOMSON Original Penguin has a new UK Brand Director in Andrew Thomson, and the brand will be back at Moda Gent on 6-8 August with an s/s 18 collection that he believes will strike all the right chords with buyers and independent retailers, as Tom Bottomley discovers. — What’s your background within the company? I joined the company in May in a new role as Brand Director, responsible for all commercial aspects of the Original Penguin business in Europe – sales, marketing and the collection. Growth of the Original Penguin business in the UK and Europe had highlighted the need for a new organisation structure. We are also recruiting more salespeople to manage the brand in the UK, as well as appointing new distributors in all key markets in mainland Europe, the Middle East and Africa. — How did Original Penguin start? The Original Penguin brand story is one of the most colourful of all the American heritage brands. In 1954, a Munsingwear salesman named Abbot Pederson was delayed for a flight and decided to have a few drinks to while away the time. He then, perhaps ill advisedly, went shopping and bought a stuffed penguin – which he named Pete. Pete the penguin travelled back home on the flight with him, during which its head unfortunately fell off. Legend has it that an air hostess reattached the penguin’s head with Pederson’s tie, hence the reason why the penguin in our logo wears a tie. Munsingwear launched Original Penguin as a clothing brand in 1955. — When did the Perry Ellis Group acquire the brand, and how big is it within the overall business? Munsingwear was acquired by Perry Ellis in 1996 and the Original Penguin brand was relaunched in 2002. Perry Ellis global sales in 2016/17 were $861m. Original Penguin accounted for

BRAND DIRECTOR ORIGINAL PENGUIN

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | INTERVIEW | 17

approximately half of this. Perry Ellis is one of the largest clothing businesses in the USA, with brands including Perry Ellis and Farah as well as global apparel licences for Callaway Golf and Nike Swimwear. — What restructuring has recently taken place within Original Penguin? It’s not so much a restructure as a re-focusing of our objective to grow Original Penguin in all categories. Where we previously operated with independent sales agencies in certain regions, we have now brought control back in-house under our own employed sales team. We’re also experiencing significant growth in our licensing business which now includes tailoring, socks, underwear, footwear, bags, accessories and childrenswear. It’s all part of our global strategy to elevate Original Penguin as a full lifestyle brand. Whilst we have a relatively mature business in the UK, we still have great potential to grow the brand in markets like Germany, France, Netherlands and Belgium. Scandinavia represents a great opportunity and we are currently exploring different ways to service this region. — Where are your showrooms in the UK and what shows do you do? Our London showroom is in our Winsley Street office, overlooking Oxford Street. We also operate showrooms in Manchester and Dublin. Pitti Uomo is important for us from a European and global perspective, and we’re also showing at Moda Gent and the INDX menswear show. — Why is Moda a good platform to re-connect with UK retailers and buyers? This is only our second Moda show, but we found that the last show gave us a great opportunity to see a large number of existing customers all in the one place. We’re also hoping to introduce many new customers to the brand. — What can we expect from the brand at the show? Colour, colour and more colour. As an American heritage brand we have some great iconic pieces, including The EarlTM Polo, which is a signature classic of Original Penguin with its distinctive contrast tipping on the placket. We have blown out each heritage piece to offer a wide range of exciting seasonal colours for s/s 18. A key growth

area for us has been our core line programme, where we offer continuity of supply throughout the year on all proven bestsellers such as logo tees, raised rib polos, Oxford shirts, sweats, P55 chinos and shorts. We’re expecting this to be popular at the show. We will also be showcasing our licensed socks and underwear collection at the show, following a great reaction at Pitti. — What are the key looks and styles for s/s 18? Our key collection themes for s/s 18 are Mix Tape, Digital Dobby and Indigo Beach. Mix Tape is built around 1980s musical influences, and Digital Dobby pays homage to the first generation of computer games like Atari, Tetris and Space Invaders. Our summer drop Indigo Beach offer has a classic sun, sea and sand holiday vibe, with a stunning Hawaiian floral print, polos, linen and swim shorts. — How is the brand currently performing in the UK market? We’re lucky in that we have a very strong presence for the brand in both the key department stores like John Lewis and House of Fraser, as well as a good geographical distribution in quality independent stores. As a global brand, we have a wide collection offer which enables customers to select garments from our ranges which are most suitable to their customer demographic. There are, however, still towns in the UK which don’t have Original Penguin stockists, so identifying these is now a key focus. — Where are the brand’s strongest markets? Our brand shares in the USA, UK and Ireland are still the strongest, but we’re now growing rapidly in several South American countries such as Mexico and Argentina. We’re also getting great traction in mainland Europe and the Middle East, having appointed new distributors in markets like Germany, Belgium, the Netherlands and Israel. — What are the plans to re-engage with old stockists, as well as attracting new customers? The collection has moved on massively for s/s 18, with key looks which may surprise many customers who either haven’t stocked the brand before, or haven’t seen the collection for a while. Retro sportswear has been really important for us in 2017 and we expect this to continue on the back of the athleisure trend into 2018 and beyond.

Our collection themes referencing 80s and 90s music and video games have added a new and relevant injection of fun, producing exciting and colourful product to attract a younger demographic. — What advertising and marketing plans do you have going forward? We’re lucky to be one of the few brands with an instantly recognisable logo, but there are still many people who aren’t aware of the brand. Two key strands in our marketing activity are music and social content. We’re sponsoring activity at four music festivals across Europe this year, including Original Penguin stages and dressing many DJs and social influencers. We have an agency focusing solely on creating outstanding social content for all our social platforms and our own website, which we have just recently relaunched. However, we still believe that some traditional media advertising in publications like GQ is important for our consumer. We also invest heavily in shop-fits in our key locations, and we have a dedicated visual merchandising team who travel throughout the country. — What standalone stores does Original Penguin have in the UK? We have a flagship concept store on Long Acre in Covent Garden. We use the store as a venue to introduce influential people to the brand, including musicians, press, bloggers and social influencers, but also hold consumer events to engage with current and new costumers. We also have a small number of out of town outlet stores, which help us to control our obsolete inventory. We’re passionate about protecting the integrity of the brand. Building wholesale distribution is our primary focus right now. — Are menswear independents key for this new wholesale focus? I’m passionate about supporting menswear independents, as these are often the places where the fashion influencers we wish to attract shop for their inspiration. We currently have a great mix of both directional and mainstream stores. There’s an edgier side to the Original Penguin brand which many customers aren’t aware of. Whilst we’re happy to sell the brand to older customers, our marketing is clearly focused on our core demographic of 18-30 year-olds.

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | PRODUCT NEWS | 19

P R O D U C T

FRENCH KISS UK agency Zone Two has unveiled the latest addition to its growing portfolio of brands in the shape of Danish menswear label Les Deux. The brand will make its first foray into the UK market for s/s 18, inspired by Parisian street fashion, in particular the city’s Latin Quarter which is widely known as a creative hub. Les Deux’s creative director, Mathias Jensen, particularly loves the vibrant heartbeat felt in the area and like all the brand’s collections, this season takes a relaxed approach to fashion with a strong sportswear influence running throughout. The label was founded in Copenhagen, where two friends banded together to create a contemporary brand, striking the perfect balance between street and smart apparel, and is now stocked in over 400 stores globally including the likes of Magasin Du Nord and Harvey Nichols Middle East. For Les Deux’s first season, Zone Two is targeting premium key accounts and independent retailers. —

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | PRODUCT NEWS | 20

RADAR Spotlighting style

EVOLUTION OF STYLE Premium menswear brand Douglas continues the evolution of its look for s/s 18, following the move to an all-new contemporary look and feel last season. The design aesthetic for the season is uncomplicated but authentic, reflecting a drive for a more simple sense of style to counter today’s ‘always on’ culture. The new collection uses a wide range of natural materials including linens, cottons and wools to create a look which expertly balances structure with nature. Natural irregular finishes are juxtaposed with geometric and striped woven designs, while the brand’s impeccable tailoring blends seamlessly with casualwear through slubbed and melange fabrics. —

KINGS OF INDIGO (K.O.I) ESTABLISHED: 2012 HISTORY: In January 2012 the first Kings of Indigo collection – a small denim inspired capsule collection with character, quality and sustainable innovation as key features – hit the stores. SIGNATURE STYLE: Kings of Indigo (K.O.I) makes quality denims, tops and accessories inspired by American classics with a Japanese eye for detail. With innovation and sustainable production techniques used wherever possible, Kings of Indigo are a brand with a conscience. Beginning life with a carefully curated capsule range of denim, the label has now grown into a successful name within the menswear sector, stocked in 250 retailers in 12 countries worldwide, with a focus on northern Europe. The name K.O.I came from founder Tony Tonnaer’s favourite tattoo, a koi fish on his right shoulder in remembrance of his mother. The abbreviation was later changed to Kings of Indigo, which the brand is known as now. For s/s 18 the brand turns its focus to silhouettes, moving away from skinny jeans to a range of relaxed, looser fits. While the pieces have a retro feel, a twist in either the fabric or the cut keeps them relevant and fresh. Many of the denims have a high rise and a wide leg which refers to 1950s workwear, while some are more 70s-inspired, bringing back the rich flare with a high rise. —

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | PRODUCT NEWS | 21

PRODUCT NEWS BUILT FOR PERFORMANCE

WAX ON, WAX OFF

Iconic sportswear label Puma’s line of active-style underwear for men, which launched last spring, has been developed further for s/s 18 and is showcased at this month’s edition of Moda (stand P59). Buyers can expect to see a comprehensive collection designed for men who demand the latest in fabric technologies, which maintain all-day comfort and enhance every level of performance. With its contemporary design, the Puma Active Lifestyle bodywear collection’s statement product, the Active Long Boxer, finishes just above the knee, making it the ideal substitute for mid-layer bottoms. Details include mesh panelling, a digital print and the use of active grey throughout. —

Wax London’s aesthetic mixes the designers’ British and Scandinavian roots, creating minimal and subtly detailed menswear. Friends and founders Tom, Rich – who both hail from the West Country – and Steffy, who was raised in Sweden, set out to start a company dedicated to making affordable, quality menswear, with the aim of bringing the actual ‘making’ tradition of British outerwear back to the UK. An all-over Scandinavian tint permeates everything from the clothing designs and photography to the brand’s seasonal publication The Wax Journal and everything that makes up the Wax London aesthetic. —

STYLE HIGHLIGHT

MANCHESTER’S FINEST The new season sees Farah take its inspiration from graphic designer Peter Saville. Saville was a director of the Manchester label Factory Records, designing many iconic album covers as well as the interior of Factory’s famous Hacienda nightclub, which embodied the acid house and rave era. Farah’s s/s 18 colour palette is taken from the artist’s designs, with yellow from the infamous Factory Records artwork and shades of green and blue lifted from New Order album covers. Standout pieces in the collection feature references to The Hacienda’s iconic hazard stripe, the pill artwork from New Order’s Fine Time single and an interpretation of Edward Wadsworth’s Dazzle Camo. —

SANTA CRUZ This season, Californian skate and surf brand Santa Cruz offer a comprehensive collection of lightweight jackets, perfect for those cooler summer evenings and to layer into the transitional seasons. Presenting a range of classic and contemporary styles including the coach and bomber jacket, the US brand has you covered. —

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 22

CHUNK CLOTHING £24 020 7609 6758

PHEME PRICE ON REQUEST 020 8983 5691

PENFIELD £10.75 020 7608 9100

O’NEILL 01243 673666

BENCH £24 FELIX.TILLER@BENCH.CO.UK

I AND ME £32 020 8983 5691

HAVE A WORD Following on from fashion’s love affair with all things nineties, slogan and logo adorned tops are no longer the uncool thing to wear, with the style pack sporting branded tees and sweats right into a/w 17. — Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

PSYCHO BUNNY £17.30 020 3137 3901

D555 £10 0115 977 0009

WRANGLER PRICE ON REQUEST 0031 20 595 0011

MIDLANDS, SOUTH AND CHANNEL ISLANDS SIMON BEARD Phone: 079 32 172944 Email: simonbeard3@aol.com WALES, NORTH, CHESHIRE, SCOTLAND ROB DAVIES Phone: 077 87 79 38 63 Email: rabcharl@freenetname.co.uk

DIGEL.DE

MODA, NEC BIRMINGHAM 06.08. ï&#x161;º 08.08.2017 HALL 19, STAND M29

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | PRODUCT | 24

SIMON CARTER PRICE ON REQUEST 020 8683 4475

GENTLEMEN’S HARDWARE PRICE ON REQUEST 01225 789909

WAX LONDON £30 020 7016 4371

THE EDIT Accessories and lifestyle products to complement your store’s offer. — CHASE AND WONDER PRICE ON REQUEST 01829 720011

RUARK RADIO RRP£2,000 01702 601410

S’WELL £35 GLOBALSALES@SWELLBOTTLE.COM

MR.BLACK GARMENT ESSENTIALS PRICE ON REQUEST 07496 132470

FRED BENNETT £28 01376 532000

ORIGINAL PENGUIN

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | MODA PREVIEW | 27

MODA UK S/S 18 Your essential guide to the brands to discover and the must-watch business seminars to catch at this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Moda, taking place from 6-8 August at the NEC, Birmingham. >>>

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | MODA GENT | 28

THOMAS CRIDLAND

DML

D555

COLOURS & SONS

MODA GENT CAMEL ACTIVE

Moda Gent is the most complete destination for menswear, showcasing new season style, from street to tailoring.

WRANGLER

GABICCI

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | MODA GENT | 29

TOM CRIDLAND Tom Cridland is a revolutionary label, specialising in sustainable menswear that is backed by a 30 year guarantee. The brand encourages consumers to ‘buy better, buy less’, and makes its foray into wholesale with its arrival at Moda Gent. Stand P38 D555 Moda Gent regular Duke Clothing returns with a comprehensive s/s 18 offer, including its diffusion line D555. Expect to see more contemporary cuts and designs within the D555 collection, which targets a younger demographic with its on-trend wardrobe staples for spring. Stand K20 DML JEANS DML Jeans is best-known for its style first and foremost, but the brand is becoming a leader in menswear innovation thanks to its progressive approach to the manufacture of denim. Innovative laundry techniques and world-class workmanship make for inspiring natural finishes, and the brand will unveil one of its widest ranges to date of cuts and washes at this season’s show. Stand J27 COLOURS & SONS Colours & Sons is designed with versatility at its core, with pieces designed to be teamed differently, from a jacket and shirt one day, to a T-shirt and sweater the next. The German label has made a name for itself across the UK since its arrival at Moda Gent, and this season will see it showcase a fresh new range of s/s 18 styles featuring prints, summer colours and easywearing shapes. Stand M59

CG CLUB OF GENTS

WRANGLER Wrangler specialises in wardrobe staples that are effortlessly designed to make a statement all of their own. Discover a new range of shapes and washes this season, all crafted to the time-honoured traditions of a brand that has become a US institution. Stand N28 CAMEL ACTIVE Camel Active draws upon a strong military influence for s/s 18, merging lightweight linen with destroyed denim for a stylish yet wearable utilitarian look. The brand stays faithful to its DNA with its ever-popular shapes, and versatile shades of olive, stone grey, light petrol and earthy tones. Stand l60 GABICCI Forty years of heritage runs through the very fibre of every Gabicci creation. The brand showcases its Classic and Vintage lines, revealing soulful designs targeting those consumers looking for true heritage brands to fulfil revival trends. Colours remain in the vintage spectrum, with deep shades of burgundy and gold featuring throughout the range, while yarns include unique plated jersey and finely knitted cotton. Stand L28 CG CLUB OF GENTS CG Club of Gents is part of the Double H portfolio, brought to the market as part of a carefully curated edit of European labels. The brand is characterised by fashion statement tailoring and a lifestyle look created by shirts, knitwear and chinos, alongside a core range of suits. Stand O3 FARAH JEANS ‘Modern day adventurer’ is the key influence for Farah Jeans this s/s 18 and, more specifically, the great explorer Sir Francis Chichester. Turning directly to his original material for inspiration, Farah Jeans embodies the orange of his mapping charts and the nautical hues of his ships themselves to create a collection for spring that charts out brand new territory. Stand M18

FARAH JEANS

BRÜHL Trouser specialist Brühl incorporates 90 years of design expertise into its latest collection for s/s 18. Expect to see on-trend slim fits in laid-back styles for spring, all designed in line with the brand’s optimal fit whose appeal transcends the age demographics. Stand L29 BEN SHERMAN Ben Sherman returns for its third season this s/s 18, following its successful Moda Gent debut last August. The brand’s spring collection is characterised by its signature polos, shortsleeved shirts and Harrington jackets in muted shades of rust, red and blue with pops of new season prints for a wealth of styling and merchandising potential. Stand M21

BRÜHL

BEN SHERMAN

>>>

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | MODA GENT | 30

NICOLAS ALEXANDER

TONN SURF

PAT & CAN

MODA GENT

O’NEILL

BOWLER & BEACH

PAT & CAN Pat & Can arrives at Moda Gent as part of the Double H portfolio. The Spanish swimwear label is designed using a quick-drying polyamide which resists the effects of chlorine, salt and light, while its styling celebrates its Mediterranean origin with Italian, French and Spanish influences. Stand N1 NICOLAS ALEXANDER Debuting at Moda with its Modern Nomad collection, Nicolas Alexander is inspired by the wanderlust of travel, and its designers’ own experiences of a bohemian life well-lived. The high-quality swimwear label targets contemporary men who forge their own style path. Stand: Moda Edit TONN SURF New arrival Tonn Surf is named after the Gaelic word for wave, and is tipped to be an Irish legend in the making. The surfwear brand manufactures from ethically sourced cotton in styles proudly inspired by the rugged coastline of Ireland. Stand P33 O’NEILL Already well-established as a global leader in the surf world, O’Neill needs little introduction ahead of its Moda Gent debut. The brand arrives with men’s and women’s styles, incorporating performance properties with must-have styles. Stand P41 BOWLER & BEACH Now in its second year, Bowler & Beach is a new swimwear label defined by accessible luxury. The brand hits the niche between high street and designer with a men’s swim collection that is characterised by distinctive designs, vibrant colours and high quality materials. Stand P43

>>>

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | MODA GENT | 32

MADDOX STREET

DIGEL MOVE

MODA GENT

SEIDENSTICKER

ETERNA

CASAMODA

FALKE

FYNCH HATTON

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | MODA GENT | 33

DIGEL Digel is a menswear concept in modern-day tailoring. The brand will return to Moda with its new s/s 18 collection, which includes its Move range, which fuses formalwear with sports influences; its Active range, which adds a relaxed edge to the classic suit and Ceremony, which targets the wedding consumer. Stand M29 MADDOX STREET Maddox Street was launched in 2012 as a diffusion line characterised by Italian elegance and quirky English styling. This season the brand progresses into s/s 18 with new graphic grids and sophisticated ombré checks combined with bold stripes. Jackets are slim, while looser weaves allow for a fresher summer feel that can transition into autumn. Stand L28 S4 The focus for S4 this season is a look for doers, inspired by the City and its associated lifestyle. Look out for high performance features including no-fuss, no-crease care, UV-resistant finishes and a water-repellent finish created from taped seams and laminations. Style is suitably utilitarian, with urban influences defining the new collection. Stand O1

SKOPES

SEIDENSTICKER Seidensticker recognises blurred distinctions between life and work this season, creating a collection in line with more relaxed rules in the workplace. The result for s/s 18 is a collection defined by smart modernity, creating a look which allows men to express personality without any compromise to formal style. Stand J11 ETERNA Eterna breaks the fashion rules this s/s 18 with a collection that doesn’t take shirts too seriously. New materials, new shapes and new looks are prevalent across the range, with textures such as linen and cotton mixes that have been selected to have an emotive appeal. Sportswear influences can also be seen across the range in line with an on-trend, athleisure feel. Stand L30 CASAMODA From the workplace to the weekend, Casamoda offers a comprehensive collection of menswear designed for everyday lifestyles. This season sees the brand return to Moda Gent with its popular silhouettes in a new, spring-inspired colour palette. Stand M39 FALKE Nostalgia and Euphoria are the key lines for Falke this season, as the brand returns to Moda Gent with an unrivalled offer of legwear for men. Colours and patterns are subdued within the dreamy Nostalgia collection, while the bolder Euphoria designs lift the range with fresh, statement tones. Stand P18 TRESANTI

FYNCH HATTON Fynch Hatton is built upon the philosophy of its founder: a Brit who made a life in Africa and was at home all over the world. This spring sees the brand present a new range of shirts, polos jackets and trousers, each designed for the wearer who seeks the freedom to create his own style. Stand M60 SKOPES Rediscover Skopes this season, with a s/s 18 collection featuring classic textured weaves with a contemporary edge. Contrast colour stitching and geo print linings set the brand aside, and regular buyers will notice a subtle shift this season towards more subtle contrasts and lining trims, and less in the way of pocket detailing. Stand N30 TRESANTI Tresanti invites buyers to never play it safe this s/s 18. The brand has long been defined by Italian flair and, this season, designers turns to the ‘Italian bad boy’ for inspiration with a collection that seeks to find the little bit of sinner within every man. Stand L38 OLYMP Olymp was named as the number one shirt brand in its native Germany this year, thanks to its progressive approach to textiles and ongoing innovation. This season sees the brand adapt its expertise across four key style stories; Gelato, The Blue Room, Innovation Lab and Secret Garden. Stand L40

OLYMP

>>>

Come see us at Moda, Hall 18, Stand I11 www.barker-shoes.co.uk

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | MODA FOOTWEAR | 35

DUDE SHOES

CARTAGO

ROCKPORT

The UK’s national footwear show showcases a comprehensive range of men’s styles, offering buyers the chance to buy cohesively across the sectors. Take a sneak preview of the ones to watch at the NEC on 6-8 August.

MODA FOOTWEAR

K-SWISS

BARKER

DUDE SHOES Discover the latest designs in Dude’s signature lightweight, comfortable and durable shoes for men. The laid-back summer styling of the brand comes at no compromise to a carefully constructed shoe, which is built on a patented EVA sole with durable uppers designed for longevity from one season to the next. Stand I2 ROCKPORT Take a fresh look at Rockport this s/s 18 and discover warm-weather styles for men that are designed to be worn sockless thanks to moisture-absorbing insoles, dress styles with a sporty influence and on-trend athleisure designs for the weekend and beyond. Stand H31 CARTAGO The latest addition to the Grendene stable, Cartago is an affordable men’s sandal brand with a luxury finish. Cartago has already secured 77 per cent of the men’s casual sandal market in its native Brazil, and will target the UK with its arrival at Moda Footwear. Stand H30 K-SWISS New to Moda Footwear this month, K-Swiss requires little in the way of introduction to the footwear industry. Since the debut of its first all-white leather tennis shoe, K-Swiss has inspired generations with its quality, performance and fit. Discover on-court performance and off-court style this season. Stand J18 BARKER Effortlessly elegant, Barker returns to Moda Footwear with its latest offer of men’s shoes, proudly made in Northamptonshire. The British label offers classic and casual styles in its signature English look, with the hallmarks of quality that have defined the label for over 135 years. Stand I11

>>>

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | MODA FOOTWEAR | 36

CHATHAM

STATUS

MODA FOOTWEAR

RIDER

BIRKENSTOCK

GOODWIN SMITH

CHATHAM Chatham returns to Moda Footwear with its signature marine-influenced designs for s/s 18. The brand will build upon the success of its Made in Britain collection, which has become an increasingly popular choice for buyers over the past few seasons. Stand J10 STATUS New to Moda Footwear this season, Status is designed in Spain from carefully selected Spanish components. Expect to see men’s styles designed for warmer climes, with on-trend espadrilles dominating the s/s 18 offer. Stand B21 RIDER So popular in Brazil that they have become an eponym, Riders are what men put on instead of flip flops. Discover the latest designs of a Brazilian institution that stretches back over three decades. Stand H30 BIRKENSTOCK Having previously shown at Moda Footwear via a distributor, Birkenstock will exhibit directly to buyers for the first time this season. The brand has a host of new designs in store, all built on a signature footbed that has become a footwear institution for generations of consumers. Stand F10 GOODWIN SMITH Goodwin Smith is built upon an extensive 90-year heritage, and the belief that men aren’t cut from the same cloth, but can choose their own footprint. Named after its two founders Walter Smith and Ernie Goodwin – two designers with very different backgrounds – the brand has forged a niche with its offer of footwear that is anything but one size fits all. Stand I4

JOIN US AT MODA NEC, BIRMINGHAM 6TH - 8TH AUGUST 2017 STAND J10 HALL 18

5% DISCOUNT ON ALL ORDERS TAKEN AT THE SHOW

01392 822 981 www.chatham.co.uk

OUT AND ABOUT WITH TILLEY

Come see us at Moda, NEC Birmingham 6th - 8th August 2017 Stand P20

www.tilley.com T: 01326 574402

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | MODA WHAT’S ON | 38

WHAT’S ON AT MODA Look beyond the product and be part of something bigger for s/s 18. As the main event of the fashion season, Moda offers a comprehensive seminar programme, live catwalk events and social gatherings that bring like-minded professionals together to celebrate the start of the season. This edition will see Moda build upon the success of New Business Tuesday, a concept introduced in February to celebrate new talent within the industry. Presented in conjunction with Bira – the British Independent Retailers Association – New Business Tuesday will welcome burgeoning retailers on the final day of the show with a range of tailored seminars targeting newcomers to the trade. Co-ordinate your diary and get the most out of your visit to Moda this August.

CATWALK THEATRE HALL 18

SEMINAR HIGHLIGHTS

SUNDAY 6 AUGUST

Looking to grow your retail business this year and compete on a limited budget? Industry expert Rachel Peterman reveals how independent retailers and brands can compete against large high street stores, drawing on her experience working with Gucci, Bloomingdales, Michael Kors and Coach. Sunday 8 August, 11.45

10.00 - 10.30 11.15 - 11.45 12.30 - 13.00 13.45 - 14.15 15.00 - 15.30 17.00 - 17.30 18.00 - 18.30

Woman catwalk Occasionwear catwalk Gent catwalk Woman catwalk Occasionwear catwalk Gent catwalk Occasionwear catwalk & drinks

MONDAY 7 AUGUST 10.00 - 10.30 11.15 - 11.45 12.30 - 13.00 13.45 - 14.15 15.00 - 15.30 17.00 - 17.30

Occasionwear catwalk Gent catwalk Woman catwalk Occasionwear catwalk Gent catwalk Woman catwalk

TUESDAY 8 AUGUST 10.30 - 11.00 Woman catwalk 12.30 - 13.00 Gent catwalk 13.45 - 14.15 Occasionwear catwalk

RACHEL PETERMAN

STACEY JACKSON Montreal-born singer-songwriter and fitness idol Stacey Jackson is equally admired for her fitness and her music. As a trained fitness instructor, the global personality is an expert when it comes to looking good while working out and, having launched her own activewear collection StaeFit, which includes a patent-pending sports top with a built-in bra, she’s perfectly placed to deliver a thought-provoking seminar on the rise of athleisure. Monday 7 August, 13.00

JULIE HOLDEN You’re entrepreneurial and proudly independent, but that doesn’t mean you have to do everything alone. Bira’s national membership manager Julie Holden invites truly inspirational retailers to the stage to explain how they stand out in their community and benefit from collective strength as a Bira member, sharing ideas as well as expertise with likeminded retailers. Sunday 6 August, 11.45

TOM CRIDLAND For any new start-up, the idea of being a global success can seem like a pipe dream. Discover how one designer made it a reality, transforming his passion for sustainable menswear into a global concept – with over 80,000 followers on social media – with a single start-up loan. Tuesday 8 August, 11.00

WARREN KNIGHT International keynote speaker Warren Knight returns to Moda with an inspiring seminar revealing how every business owner can engage customers online to generate sales. Having personally built a £1m technology company in less than two years, Knight’s vision is to help 100,000 entrepreneurs to reach similar levels of success. Sunday 6 August, 16.15 and Monday 7 August, 10.30

LISA PAYNE From climate chaos and fast-fashion fatigue to depleting natural resources and under-served demographics, the fashion industry is currently going through major upheaval. Lisa Payne – beauty editor at Stylus – dissects the major issues affecting business for retailers, brands and manufacturers, and highlights the biggest opportunities for growth, with insights that are relevant to a breadth of industries. Sunday 6 August, 13.00

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | PROFILE | 40

CHANGING TIMES AT OPTIONS Aron Sharpe, Managing Director of Options Fashion Distribution, has certainly been around the block and seen a thing or two in the fashion business. He even had a five-year break when he fell out of love with it all. Now with an amazing new showroom in North London, and with a fine selection of brands, including new additions such as Iceberg diffusion line Ice Play, Ebbets Field Flannels and Mason Garments, Sharpe’s passion has been truly reignited. Tom Bottomley hails the resurgence of Options. — The Options Fashion Distribution company story is an intriguing one, told with wit and wisdom by its founder and managing director, Aron Sharpe. It started out in 1989, with designer brands such as Riccardo Bini, You and Me, Jimmy Taverniti and the one that really exploded for them at the time, Replay. “We had to reposition Replay back in 1990,” offers Sharpe. “At that point, it was just a shirt line that had reached a peak, but was dipping, then they introduced the jeans and it really took off again.” Options had UK distribution of Replay – including opening seven British Replay stores – up until 2001, when the brand took it back in-house and set up their own London office and showroom. Other brands Options has distributed in its rich and varied past include Lee Trevor, Versace, D&G and even the likes of Hooch and Bench. Sharpe also launched the AG brand with Adriano Goldschmied, sold Mavi Jeans and created his own denim line called Hands. But Sharpe had a break from fashion and sold up all his distribution business in 2005. His one big regret was selling the 12,000 square foot showroom in the now buoyant Kings Cross area, where property value has since gone through the roof. “The problem was, you’d build up a business and then the brand would open up their own showroom, as I had with Replay and others,” offers Sharpe. “Every time we established a brand and got good traction on it, they’d take a look at the financials and decide to open

up their own office. Subsequently, there would be a fractious end to the distribution deal. I felt at that time that the distribution model had become a bit of a dinosaur, and I’d fallen out of love with the business.” It wasn’t until 2010, after five years of not doing too much – aside from becoming chairman of Wingate & Finchley Football Club, and setting up a kids’ football team – that Sharpe returned and started Options up once again. “I had two phone calls in a week: I was offered the licence for Santa Monica Track Club (SMTC), and was also told Pendleton Woolen Mills needed someone in the UK. Pendleton is iconic and has such heritage, so I was attracted to that. Then I got a call from one of my old export managers at Replay saying he had a line called Antony Morato. It was the first thing I’d seen for independent menswear that was like Zara – directional but with opening price points. It was also the fastest growing fashion company in Italy. It was something I felt I could build a proper business out of, and it floated my boat.” Sharpe and Options were firmly ‘back in the room’. “What I didn’t realise at the time was how the business had changed and been decimated in terms of independent boutiques,” he says. Even with his vast experience, without Antony Morato he doesn’t think he would have lasted beyond the first year back in business. “It’s extremely difficult now. It’s so different to how it used

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | PROFILE | 41

to be when I started out. Retailers don’t have the time to be able to establish a brand, it has to work straight away.” Whereas it used to be the case that retailers would really be on the lookout for something new to add to their mix, Sharpe feels there is now a reluctance to try anything different. “The whole dynamic of the business had completely changed and, although I’ve been in the business all my life, I’ve had to re-assess what I bring in and where I’m going to be selling it. “We also have to completely edit the collections, because they now have to be 100 per cent right. The job has to be done for the buyers. The first question you’re asked these days is, ‘Where is it sold?’ whereas historically the independent boutiques wanted something that nobody else had. It’s been a re-learning curve for me.” Sharpe says they have now found their feet again, and he has his son, Joe, as sales manager, as well as Godfrey Ampomah as sales director, helping him steer the good ship of Options Distribution. The brand line-up is certainly strong. Antony Morato remains firmly as the entry anchor brand, while Pendleton Woolen Mills has been joined on the US heritage brand tip by Ebbets Field Flannels and Duluth Pack bags (handcrafted in the US since 1882). There’s also Quoddy footwear and the relaunched Classic Nouveau. Then there’s Denham The Jeanmaker, Colmar Originals, My Brand, Mason Garments premium sneakers and now Iceberg’s standout diffusion line, Ice Play. The new showroom is at Pearl House, 2 1/2 Roman Way, London, N7 – in the heart of Islington – and is a two minute walk from Caledonian Road & Barnsbury train station. There’s a wonderful courtyard as you come in, and the space inside is 4,600 square feet of interlinking rooms, with big windows that let in a lot of light, and a stunning roof terrace. The property was recently used as the set for Britain’s Next Top Model, and it was also home to the late Hollywood actor Heath Ledger while he was filming the

Batman film The Dark Knight in which he played The Joker. It really is an impressive space. “It’s taken me until this point to feel the timing was right to find a bigger and nicer space to house all the collections, that was affordable and stacked up financially,” offers Sharpe. Finding the new showroom took two years, but he really wanted something unusual and accessible. “We only moved in last April,” he says. “We were in a showroom in Shoreditch previously, which is just up the road, and obviously I didn’t want to lose customers by moving too far away. When you’re in a Shoreditch building, and you’re dealing with Italian brands such as Colmar Originals from Milan, and you walk in to a, shall we say, less than salubrious common entrance, it doesn’t really go down too well with them. We all love it, but it doesn’t quite convey the right image for certain brands.” Sharpe thinks where they are now feels more right, and they needed more space anyway to present the brands in the right way. “I was being offered more good product, and I didn’t have anywhere to put it. I couldn’t find anywhere cool enough, until I found this place. It was originally an old dairy.” Iceberg’s diffusion line, Ice Play, is certainly a new addition to Options’ brand mix that will create a stir with the fashion pack. It comes as part of a vision for the brand from Iceberg’s new creative director James Long, winner of the British GQ 2016 breakthrough designer of the year awards and the latest in an illustrious list of designers who have held the role including Marc Jacobs, Dean and Dan Caten of Dsquared2, and Jean Charles de Castelbajac. The collection uses super-soft materials and features bold graphic prints, alongside vibrant abstract patterns that hark back to the original DNA of Iceberg, with the use of cartoon graphics. Along with all the other fine collections now in the Options Fashion Distribution portfolio, it’s sure to create a buzz with buyers making their way in numbers to the new North London HQ, which is quite probably now the finest looking showroom in town.

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | PROFILE | 42

SO !SOLID CREW Danish brand !Solid returns to Moda this season with a contemporary, laid-back collection that ticks all the right boxes in terms of product and price. Isabella Griffiths catches up with agent Grant Ashdown to find out the key to the label’s success. — When it comes to fashion, Scandinavian labels are top of the class at combining the commercial with the stylish – a winning formula in any retailer’s book, for sure. And Danish brand !Solid is a case in point. The brand has been going from strength to strength in the UK, with an expanding number of high-quality accounts and an equally growing consumer fanbase to beat. It’s easy to see why. Divided into three capsule collections, Urban Supply, Street Apparel and Denim Journey, !Solid offers the kind of versatility and breadth of styles that is broadly appealing, and the mid-market price points make the range accessible against high-street competition. For Grant Ashdown, owner of Twoagentsee, which has been representing the label for the past five years, the mix of right product and right price is key to the success of !Solid. “We are deemed as a mid-market menswear brand; as we are Danish we have that Danish mentality, so our entry price product is where our success lies. T-shirts start at £13-£22 retail; shirts £25-£45 retail; sweats £30-£50 retail and outerwear £35-£80 retail. There are many key factors to the success of !Solid; I put them down to how we can offer a brand with great product and great design at a high-street price,” he explains. Part of the largest fashion manufacturer in Scandinavia, CNS Group, which also houses brands such as Tailored & Originals, Desires and Pep, !Solid’s infrastructure is second to none, offering a 24-hour b2b webshop, where stockists can order styles at their convenience and access bestsellers, special offers and express and NOS items, along with great marketing and POS support. Design-wise, the brand is laid-back and fashionable, aimed at the 18-35 age group at the core, though its three universes each

have a different proposition and appeal. Urban Supply is contemporary and casual, drawing inspiration from current trends across its 120 styles per season. Looks range from the Nordic to the refined, from simple, minimalist and sharp to sophisticated and detail-oriented. The 20-piece Street Apparel line offers highly trend-oriented items with designs featuring strong and iconic graphic elements. Meanwhile, with 40 styles, including NOS, Denim Journey reflects the original jeans spirit. Innovative fabrics, washes and details form part of the DNA, which embraces authenticity and the true indigo tradition. “There is a huge amount of choice between the three lines, and buyers can buy as they feel is suitable for their store. Some go heavier into denim and some more towards the smarter side,” explains Ashdown. !Solid is represented in more than 30 countries and also runs 26 of its own stores in Denmark and Norway, though Ashdown says that in the UK wholesale will remain the focus, with no plans to roll out retail any time soon. But that’s not to say that he’s not ambitious for the label. “!Solid has been performing extremely well for us, and the a/w 17 collection has just hit the stores of some new accounts, so we’re excited to see how this will go. Solid still has so much potential,” he says. With eyes on growth, !Solid will be showing its s/s 18 range at this season’s Moda Menswear at the NEC, where it successfully debuted last season. “The only show in the UK for a brand like !Solid is Moda. We were very happy with the response from our first attempt and truly believe that continuing to show there will bring awareness to the brand,” says Ashdown.

IRELAND info@threads.ie Tel: +353 87 790 2678

MAIL/ SOLID@SOLIDMEN.COM | WEB/ WWW.SOLIDMEN.COM | FACEBOOK/ !SOLID | INSTAGRAM/ @SOLID_OFFICIAL

UNITED KINGDOM grant@twoagentsee.com Tel: +44 7976 154358

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | REVIEW | 44

INSTA’ MOMENTS FROM BERLIN M

mwbmagazine Berlin, Germany

87 likes

96 likes

102 likes

Contemporary silhouettes at Berlin based accessory label @ucon_acrobatics

@Native_youth plays with the senses this season with a series of tactile fabrics

What time is it Mr Wolf? Or should that be @MrBoho? #watches

mwbmagazine Berlin, Germany

92 likes

101 likes

88 likes

A collection highlight from mod-inspired outerwear label @Brixtol

Great to see the @Palladium_Boots and Christopher Raeburn collection in the flesh!

Prints galore at surfwear @BoardiesApparel – just add water #surfsup

mwbmagazine Berlin, Germany

90 likes

85 likes

81 likes

Handmade in Amsterdam, @PigandHen are a brand worth considering this season

What’s the next step for footwear brand @Clae? #footwear

You can always rely on @quayaustralia to create eye-catching sunglasses...

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | REVIEW | 45

MWB was on hand at the recent edition of Berlin Fashion Week to snap some of the standout products for s/s 18. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; M

mwbmagazine Berlin, Germany

97 likes

102 likes

91 likes

@Kswiss reworks a series of collection classics this season #oldclassics

Clean, simple silhouettes at Dutch label @Ontour.nl #simplelife

Discovering travel basics at @goincase #formandfunction

mwbmagazine Berlin, Germany

83 likes

110 likes

98 likes

A new find for MWB, but a hugely successful brand in Oz â&#x20AC;&#x201C; say hello to @IndustrieClothing

@Dedicatedbrand shines the spotlight on sustainability this season #organic

@Levis showcased its streetwear offer at this edition of Bright #tradeshow

mwbmagazine Berlin, Germany

104 likes

87 likes

85 likes

Music makes the world go around according to @CrosleyRadioEurope #amplifyyourstyle

Lavender hints at Scandinavian brand @Legends.dk this season #SoCal

@MalibuSandals weaving their way into the new season with a reimagined classic

3-piece suit – Skopes £75.50 0113 240 2211 Shirt – Remus Uomo price on request 028 9332 7828 Tie – stylist’s own

FINE AND DANDY With double breasted blazers, bold colours and intricate prints making their way to the forefront of formal dressing this season, menswear welcomes the return of the dandy for s/s 18.

Suit – Remus Uomo £165 028 9332 7828 Top – Gabicci £22 01442 233700

Photographer – Richard Boyle Grooming – Lauren Rippin www.laurensally.co.uk Stylist – Victoria Jackson Model – Chan www.bossmodelmanagement.co.uk Location – Ibérica Leeds www.ibericarestaurants.com

Suit – Douglas £225 033 3456 7777. Shirt – Merc £22 020 8838 2444 Tie – Remus Uomo £12.50 028 9332 7828. Scarf – Knightsbridge £14.50 01765 640576

Jacket – Scott The Label £47 01405 782830. Trousers – Scott The Label £20 01405 782830 Shirt – Eden Park £44 020 3432 6387. Tie – Eden Park £26 020 3432 6387 Monk strap shoe – Loake £87 01536 415411

Blazer – Maddox Street £70 01442 233700 Shirt – Stylist’s own

Suit – Digel £119 simonbeard3@aol.com T-shirt – stylist’s own

Blazer – Farah £52 020 7580 5838 Shorts – Farah £24 020 7580 5838 Shirt – Merc £20 020 8838 2444 Belt – RM Williams £30 01767 600870

Blazer – Savile Row by CG Club of Gents £180 020 3432 6387 Shirt – JT Ascot £11.35 020 3432 6387 Tie – Eden Park £26 020 3432 6387

Shirt – Eton £51 07841 014733 Tie – Penrose London £34 01787 372396

Blazer – Magee price on request 028 2564 6211 Shirt – Remus Uomo £18 028 9332 7828 Tie – Knightsbridge Neckwear £10.50 01765 640576

10—12 September 2017 Olympia, London

ADVENTURES IN

FASHION Explore the unique worlds of Top Drawer, expertly curated to inspire your buying. With over 1,500 design-led brands, it’s the only destination for creative retailers to source irresistible new products.

YOUR JOURNEY BEGINS HERE Register now at topdrawer.co.uk/mwb

A/W 17 EDITION

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | PREVIEW | 57 t

ALXNDRA Located in the show’s Spotted area, ALXNDRA is a seasonless streetwear brand, heavily rooted in illustration and design. With an east-meets-west aesthetic inspired by the Japanese culture of Kawaii (cuteness), founder Alexandra Cook explains: “I use feminine details to soften up the edges, allowing for a semi-unisex appeal and combat stereotypes by mixing pop colours, pastels and child-like illustrations with an overall minimal aesthetic.” —

SECRID

ÖGON

New to Top Drawer’s September edition, Dutch accessory brand Secrid specialise in stylish yet functional leather wallets and card holders. Styles on offer include the award-winning aluminium card protector, as well as the Slimwallet, which is a sleek leather card wallet that offers a stylish way to store cards. The Miniwallet, meanwhile, is cut slightly narrower and has a button clasp to keep it slim and secure. Both include a fanned lever mechanism, which makes accessing cards quick and easy. —

Founded in 2004 in Paris, Ögon is the founder of the aluminium wallet, making reference to the cigarette cases used by dandies of days past. The arrival of Ögon on the leather goods market caused a mini-revolution. Being the very first designer wallet made with aluminium, the Stockholm model shook up the market. Modern and distinctive, the card case rapidly became a bestseller and has proved hugely successful. —

TOP OF THE CROP Taking place from 10-12 September 2017 at London’s Olympia, we share some of the brand highlights set to exhibit at Top Drawer’s next edition. — p

PLANE INDUSTRIES

THE HEALTHY BACK BAG

Plane Industries is an accessory label with a difference. Using reclaimed, authentic aircraft parts, from both military and civilian aircraft, the brand takes pride in exploring the most innovative ways to breathe new life into remarkable feats of engineering. Introducing its luggage range at Top Drawer’s next edition, buyers can expect to see weekender bags and tablet cases, which incorporate upcycled aircraft seating fabric. —

Making its debut at the show, The Heathy Back Bag will showcase its latest collection comprising three new colourway stories across its classic bag collection (small, medium, large, messenger and i-Pad bag), all available in a range of fabrics including nylon, leather and microfibre. Each design offers comfort, versatility and practicality in equal measure. —

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | PROFILE | 58

FROM SWIMWEAR TO FLANNELS Hemingsworth started out with high quality, made in England swim shorts, but it is now in the process of creating a full ‘English gentleman’s travel wardrobe’ – including flannel jackets and trousers for a/w 18, to move on from the seersucker jackets and trousers added for s/s 18. Tom Bottomley talks to owner Matt Jones to find out more. — Matt Jones is originally from the advertising world, having worked for agencies such as Leo Burnett. He had Blackberry as a client, with the role of helping them appeal to a younger consumer. They offered him a European role, which meant he worked out of their offices in Ibiza for three years. Nice work if you can get it. It’s little wonder then that his first creation with his new Hemingsworth brand was swimwear. But this is swimwear with a difference. For starters, it’s made in England, by tailors in London. The swim shorts have a 29-piece pattern, and go through 17 hand-finished processes. They also retail at £180 (£74 wholesale), so they are not your average Speedos. They are tailored for a perfect fit with an integral waistband, Tahitian mother of pearl buttons, zips made to order in Italy by Lampo, and side buckles that are cast and finished in Germany to the highest specification. It’s this attention to detail that elevates Hemingsworth’s offer to a premium level, and is winning it plaudits in all the right places. Also currently with his own creative agency, called Monk London, Jones says Hemingsworth has been his labour of love behind the scenes for the last five years. “With the constant wardrobe changes I had, travelling on three or four flights a

week, I was always trying to find clothes that were breathable, that looked alright in a meeting, and that would see you by as you went through changing climates. There wasn’t much out there that fitted my requirements, so that sparked the initial idea to do my own thing. From working in ad agency land, we all love a good story, so I started putting one together. There was also the opportunity to create the only English-made quality swimwear.” So, Jones began his journey with the goal to make ‘the world’s most luxurious swimwear’, bringing English tailoring, style and comfort together. Whilst an increasingly competitive category of recent years, with the likes of Orlebar Brown and Vilebrequin at the top-end, he felt no brand had gone far enough to create a truly tailored men’s swim short that the wearer could comfortably wear all day. “The reality being, most active men’s shapes change throughout the course of the day, and require more than a bulky side buckle or button clasp,” he offers. A casual tailored short that you could wear all day, and in the water, was what Jones was looking for. He then called on the services of one Henry Butler, a design and development specialist, whose production credentials and knowledge of factories and where to find the

finest components and materials were honed during his time working for brands including Nigel Cabourn and Fox Brothers. It proved to be a good move. During his time jumping out of the pool, on to a flight and into another meeting, Jones says he found swimwear particularly challenging. “I was always wearing shorts in to meetings, but they looked like swim shorts. And the ones that claimed they were tailored, weren’t, they just had side buckles. I started looking into it and, my job being helping to build brands for the future, I thought, ‘What could I make here?’” Jones looked at the trends, with new British brands emerging and swimwear being a growth area. He thought that if he could create the best, most luxurious swim shorts, going beyond what other brands had done, then hopefully he would be able to build trust with retailers, and then start to make other unique ‘made in England’ pieces. Butler toured around all the best factories in Europe, including sourcing the best fabrics from Lemar in Portugal, and finding the factory in London who could actually make them the ‘no compromise’ swim shorts. That factory is Panache Outerwear Ltd., who also make certain products for the likes of Burberry, Nigel Cabourn and Oliver Spencer.

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | PROFILE | 59

The ride so far has not been smooth for Jones and his Hemingsworth brand due to the rise in manufacturing costs they have already encountered. “All the costs went up in the wake of Brexit, but we’re thinking that it’s not such a bad thing now because it’s very hard for anyone else to imitate or copy what we’re doing, and we’re quite proud of that. It’s our unique differentiator.” Hemingsworth has now extended its Clipper collection with the introduction of a new travel jacket, once again impeccably crafted by tailors in London. The Clipper collection now features eight stylish short designs, and three pairing travel jackets. Every garment has been designed to allow for maximum comfort and all-day wear, “keeping the modern globetrotting gentleman moving,” says Jones. Inspired by the timelessness and durability of 19th-century British racing ships, the Clipper collection utilises lightweight seersucker and cotton-blend fabrics. The addition of the classic travel jacket to the range utilises an unlined shirt-weight construction, and has been designed for the jetsetter with the inclusion of a travel document pocket. Its tailored shape is fitted for comfort, while its super lightweight, classic cotton blend seersucker, breathes. “I wanted to create a versatile range that has some of the most renowned features of a tailored suit that today’s modern man would appreciate, impeccable tailoring and supreme comfort with details like an integral hidden adjustable waistband and French fly featured on our shorts, or the practicality of a passport and plane ticket pocket in our jacket. “The Hemingsworth man appreciates the

finer details in life, but he doesn’t want to obsess over wardrobe changes. His wardrobe should never hold him back,” says Jones. The seersucker jackets, retailing at £395, come in five colours, pink stripe, blue stripe, green stripe, solid navy and solid grey. Whilst the shorts were the foundation to the Clipper collection, Jones says he remains focused on creating an ‘English gentleman’s travelinspired wardrobe’, with jackets, trousers and a host of British-made collaborations and partnerships set to drive the expansion of Hemingsworth in 2018. The seersucker jackets will also be joined by seersucker trousers for s/s 18, creating a suit – or mix and match options, as they will be sold separately. “The past 12 months have been focused on reinforcing our luxury, quality and English-made credentials across media, press and through influencers like Hollywood stylist to the stars Andrew Weitz,” says Jones. “But 2018 will see us focus on securing premium listings to drive brand affinity for future expansion.” Jones also recently attended the Meet the Manufacturer 2017 event at The Old Truman Brewery, which was an opportunity for Hemingsworth to wave the British flag proudly as well as provide a preview into its expanding collection of travel jackets. From a retail listings perspective, The Merchant Fox is Hemingsworth’s first partner for its Somerset shop (and online from this month), with a series of luxury and quality focused retailers to be announced going forward. Recently featured amongst the best summer swim shorts in GQ, Hemingsworth has also had

good coverage in titles such as The Gentleman’s Journal, Kensington & Chelsea Magazine and The Rakish Gent. Initial sales of Hemingsworth shorts from their website, have mainly been to international customers who are attracted to the whole made in England concept. “It’s gone from a few sales a week, to a few sales a day, and that’s now giving us the confidence to speak to retailers for s/s 18. We should be in Trunk for s/s 18. They have strong contacts with Lane Crawford in Hong Kong, and ideally that’s where we’d like to get in to.” They are also in talks with the likes of Liberty in London, though nothing has been confirmed as yet. Marc Alexander Agencies, which sells brands such as Circle of Gentlemen, Altea and La Martina, has just taken Hemingsworth on board to help to grow the wholesale side in the UK. They have also been busy maximising endorsement, with the likes of Daniel Craig, Richard Branson, Benedict Cumberbatch, Jason Statham, Jude Law, Eddie Redmayne, Michael Fassbender and Luke Evans having personally selected shorts through a closed invite. Jones is now busy working on Hemingsworth’s a/w 18 range, and developing their own fabrics for jackets and trousers. Fox Brothers flannels will be key to the new offer. “We don’t want to just be a swimwear brand, and we don’t want to just be a summer brand. It’s all about an English gentleman’s travel wardrobe, but we needed to start somewhere,” he says. Shirting is another key area which will come in to focus going forward and, with all the attention to detail, Hemingsworth could well be a new English success story very soon.

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | PEOPLE | 60

COLLECTIVE The people, the places, the products.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK IBĖRICA RESTAURANT 17A EAST PARADE, LEEDS

SIMON SAYS I’ve recently had a falling out with Jezebel. We’d not seen each other for a year, and finally we were reunited three weeks ago. It was like old times. Once again we were the best team ever, attracting admiring glances and comments wherever we went. We decided to go on a trip to Norfolk. Happily motoring along together through South London’s weekend traffic, her water pump blew up outside Lewisham. What were you thinking? Shame on you. Jezebel is my much loved 1977 Ferrari Dino. She’d been off the road for what I call ‘elective surgery’; new silencer, carpet set, mirrors etc and I hadn’t exactly hurried the garage along as I didn’t exactly want to face the bill. Anyway the inevitable happened, but more of a deadline was Chateau Impney. This is the second year that I’ve been the timekeeping sponsor at their annual Hill Climb. Aimed mainly at classic cars, there are vehicles from Edwardian to the present day. It is fast becoming the Goodwood of the Midlands. As part of my sponsorship package they asked whether I would like to blast up the hill in my Ferrari during the lunch break. Well that didn’t take too much thinking about. However, the motoring highlight of my year now lay in ruins thanks to the broken water pump. Despite the best endeavours of my excellent garage, but compounded by the utter lack of interest from the recovery firm, Jezebel wouldn’t be ready in time to drive up to Droitwich. I tried my very best not to be grumpy about the whole thing as we arrived at Chateau Impney for what really was a glorious weekend. However the day became even brighter when one of the organisers said, ‘So sorry about your Ferrari. As an alternative, would you like Sergei here to drive you up the hill in his Bugatti?’. This, too, didn’t take much thinking about and soon I was buckled up in the passenger seat of a four monthold Bugatti Chiron. It was probably the most photographed car there as they are rare beasts and this one came with the number plate BUG 1. As we passed the marshals and waited our turn at the bottom of the hill Sergei asked me if I’d done the run before. No, I replied. Well, he said, that makes two of us and pressed the accelerator. Not much scares me, dear reader. And I’ve been in some fast cars. But that Bugatti is something else. Even on a short and twisty stretch of country house hill, it was a visceral, bowel wrenchingly impressive experience. We made it – just – without driving into the straw bales and I emerged shaken and shaking. Would I swap troublesome, fickle unreliable Jezebel for the mighty Bugatti? Oddly enough, no. Despite a top speed of 262 mph, Sergei can’t drive over speed bumps. No good in South London. — Simon Carter is the CEO of the eponymous brand and retail stores

Chosen as the perfect location for our seasonal photoshoot this month, Ibérica in Leeds is not only famed for its delicious food, but its impressive interior design. Located in a Grade II listed building once belonging to an auction house, the restaurant is split over three floors, including traditional Spanish design such as light woods, a deli shop and an old wine cellar. Created by interior designer Lazaro Rosa Violan, the space is well thought out and incorporates a private dining area upstairs. In terms of food, there are a variety of tapas dishes on the menu, including a series of carefully selected artisan cheeses such as Torta de Trujillo, Mahón and La Peral, as well as sea trout with almond purée and pickled cauliflower and twice cooked lamb with marinated cherry tomatoes and red peppers from El Bierzo. Definitely one to check out if you’re ever in the city. — PLAN B

BEN LIMA Creative Director, 17 London

I think I must be on about plan L right now with 17 London. — But, seriously, I think my plan B would have been working within the music industry, in either tour management or artist management. I guess it kind of goes hand in hand to the fashion industry as well. I have a lot of links in the music industry, which we are using to create exciting collaborations for 17 London. We are also trying to work with up and coming artists such as Mvson Collective, Sleazy F Baby, Black Josh and more, to create events, tours and collaborations, but also with some more established artists such as Bipolarsunshine and De La Swing. So, in a way, I guess I’m mixing the two things together, fashion and music, in one masterplan with 17 London. —

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | PEOPLE | 61

CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL MITCH GALVIN CEO AND OWNER, NICCE LONDON First up is my Our Legacy box shirt in check flannel. This shirt is my most recent purchase. I regularly wear Our Legacy, and I like the straight cut and boxy fit of this shirt. I’ve been wearing it with straight faded black denim. I’m in to the whole oversized boxy fit, and for this reason my Our Legacy longsleeved black army jersey is another firm favourite in my wardrobe. I also like the faded wash as it gives it a vintage feel. I tend to pair this with cut off-denim Levi’s. The Nicce office is just around the corner from the Goodhood store, and this jersey was a purchase from there. I like my graphic tees at the moment and my Surf Is Dead Surf Japan tee is made by some friends of mine from LA. I got it direct from their website alongside some black Grammici shorts recently. I’m also into chunky soles on trainers, and the black on black combination works for me right now with my Eytys Ace black leather shoes. One of my favourite pieces that I have bought this summer is a football shirt from Adidas Originals by Alexander Wang. I would say it’s actually one of the best football shirts I’ve ever come across. I’m not usually a collector of Alexander Wang, but this piece really stood out. I came across it on social media, and then hunted it down on Farfetch last month. My Nicce London Essential Box white T-shirt is a great tee for that relaxed fit, and also good for a sweaty rave. We’ve had this collection available for a few months now and it’s pleasing to see our customers really getting into it. My Type 937 Lined Splitback Allotment Coat is by far my favourite jacket of all time. I came across this brand a few years ago. All their stuff is made in England from local or dead stock. I love the colour and the Japanese cuts. I tend to wear it with my off-white straight denim jeans. Bought from Tenderstores.com – a secret gem of a store. —

TOP TWEETS Grey Fox @GreyFoxBlog No men’s style section in today’s @thetimes magazine despite ELEVEN pages of recipes. Barack Obama @BarackObama John McCain is an American hero & one of the bravest fighters I’ve ever known. Cancer doesn’t know what it’s up against. Give it hell, John. Michael Hawkes @BeardedBakery Mental health is an important issue and something that needs to be talked about. Remember, there are people out there to talk to. innocent drinks @innocent PRETTY BIG MILESTONE ALERT: we’ve now donated £10m to charity, helping more than 750,000 hungry people. We couldn’t have done it without you Charlie Partridge @CharliePartrdge Applying for London Fashion Week tickets has taught me the perfect balance of nonchalance and beseeching. SHOWstudio.com @SHOWstudio ‘He is one of the few designers that is genuinely original...feels deeply genuine’ - @paddygrant on #RafSimons Phil Barton @recordshopman Jul 11 Replying to @SouthernRailUK Oh dear, this may not end well Eddie. I suggest you ask for a tin helmet & a bunker to hunker down in. #southernFail Suzanne Brøgger @Suzannebroegger “Imagine that you see the wretched strangers, Their babies at their backs and their poor luggage, Plodding to the coasts ..” Shakespeare

SOCIETY THE PARTIES AND EVENTS FROM IN AND AROUND THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY.

p SIX AWARDEES OF EUROPEAN FASHION AWARD FASH 2017 HAVE BEEN ANNOUNCED: HANNAH KLIEWER, SONJA LITICHEVSKAYA, ANDREAS STANG, LIVIA HONUS, LEA SCHWEINFURTH AND KATJA SKOPPEK. THE AWARDS, VALUED AT €200,000 IN TOTAL, WERE PRESENTED IN THE IMPRESSIVE HALLS OF BERLIN’S BODE-MUSEUM, PART OF THE MUSEUM ISLAND UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE.

p DOUBLE TWO CHAIRMAN RICHARD DONNER HAS BEEN AWARDED THE LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD AT THE RECENT WAKEFIELD BUSINESS AWARDS, ORGANISED BY THE WAKEFIELD EXPRESS TO CELEBRATE THE MANY SUCCESSFUL BUSINESSES THE CITY HAS TO OFFER.

p MAYOR OF LONDON SADIQ KHAN STEPS OUT WITH SOME OF THE WEST END’S MOST FAMOUS FACES TO AFFIRM THAT LONDON’S WEST END AND ITS WORLD CLASS OFFERING IS OPEN FOR THE SUMMER SEASON. TO SUPPORT THE #LONDONISOPEN CAMPAIGN THE ENTIRE WEST END WILL BE LIVERIED FOR THE FIRST TIME IN HISTORY.

MWB-ONLINE.CO

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | 63

THE BOTTOMLEY LINE MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

t SOVREIGN

MARCO CAIRNS LAUNCHES NEW SOVREIGN BRAND Currently the creative Director for Duffer Japan, Marco Cairns has started up his own new brand, called Sovreign, also written as S.V.R.N., which seems to be hitting the right notes with buyers already. “We showed it to Journal Standard in Japan, which is owned by Baycrew’s Co., and they said they’d take it for all stores, which is amazing,” says Cairns. “At the moment it’s printed tees and sweats, but going forward they have asked for Hawaiian type printed shirts, jackets and knitwear, so I’m definitely looking to develop the brand. I showed in to Mark Batista from Brand Progression who got it immediately, so that should also be Europe covered.” The price points are £35-£38 for the tees and £85-£95 for the sweats. Cairns says the initial idea came when he was asked to create a few graphics for a friend in Japan on a freelance basis (who is acting as his agent for Japan), with an English aesthetic which looks timeless. “I wanted to have a bit of fun with it, so ideas for the graphics came pretty quickly,” says Cairns, who finished his tenure with JD Sports (designing Duffer of St. George for them) last June.

CLARKS TO MAKE DESERT BOOTS IN STREET Great to hear that Clarks is bringing shoe manufacturing back to the UK, opening a new factory at its headquarters in Street, Somerset, where it will apparently have the capacity to produce 300,000 pairs of its iconic Desert Boots. It will also create in the region of 80 jobs, though the new facility will also use robot-assisted technology for the first time. Technical and managerial jobs will be created in the village, where shoe manufacturing was first started by brothers Cyrus and James Clark in 1825. It was Nathan Clark who first unveiled the Desert Boots design at the Chicago Shoe Fair in 1949 – though it was actually in the 1950s that its

p IVAN LENDL

t HYPE X COCA-COLA

popularity first soared – and it’s changed very little since.

SUPERGA RELAUNCHES IVAN LENDL SHOES

HYPE X COCA-COLA COLLABORATION PUTS THE FIZZ IN TO ‘STREET’

This summer Superga has brought back a shoe originally worn on court by tennis legend Ivan Lendl in the early 1980s. The all new Superga Sport Lendl line, with the unmistakable ‘swallow’s tail’ logo (designed in 1970 for the sports line), features all the original characteristics such as eco-leather uppers, a printed rubber sole, Superga Sport logo on the tongue, and the champion’s signature on the back. The shoes were launched at an event at the popular Petersham Nurseries in Richmond, where food and drinks were served to a wide selection of fashionistas, models and journalists during Wimbledon fortnight (ironically the one title that eluded Lendl, though he was the winner of eight Grand Slam titles, and was also four times ITF world champion). Attending the event in person, Lendl said: “The designs and styles are fantastic.” No doubt they are also a great reminder of former glories, which he can now hopefully relive through his admirable coaching of Andy Murray.

A clever collaboration indeed for streetwear favourites Hype, as you don’t get much more iconic branding to play around with than CocaCola. Launching in stores recently, Hype has created some on point and striking products using the instantly recognisable red and white palette synonymous with the Coca-Cola brand, whilst throwing in some their own interpretations as demonstrated in the design of their Bubbles items – keeping it fresh with street style and featuring tees, hoodies, shirts, caps, belts, scarves and even badges. It was in 1963 that Bill Backer, Creative Director of advertising agency McCann Erickson, penned the jingle “Things Go Better with Coke.” The brand loved it so much they used it for the next six years before Backer came up with “It’s the Real Thing.” It’s no coincidence that everybody believed the ‘hype’.

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK AUGUST 2017 | DIRECTORY | 64

CASUALWEAR

FORMALWEAR

SUITS

WANTED

STOCK WANTED Menswear, childrenswear, ladieswear Fashion wanted, Any Make Any Style, Cancelled Orders Unwanted Stock, Over Stock Best Prices given, CASH PAID EPOS

GARMENT STANDS

Ring: 07944444508 / 07421594958

To advertise please call Sharon Le Goff on +44 (0)1484 846069 or email sharon@ras-publishing.com

www.propress.co.uk

Fashion

Styled by Steam

MWB-ONLINE.CO AUGUST 2017 | LAST ORDERS | 66

LAST ORDERS WITH... GEORG WEISSACHER Learning his craft at the eponymous British design house Vivienne Westwood, Georg Weissacher stepped out into the world of fashion showcasing his own label POAN (Peoples Of All Nations). Victoria Jackson caught up with Weissacher to discover more about the menswear brand and the kind of man he creates his garments for. — DOB: 15/10/1983 Place of Birth: Salzburg, Austria Lives: London Website: peoplesofallnations.com

Prior to launching Peoples Of All Nations, what was your background in fashion? I had been responsible for Vivienne Westwood’s menswear, and was with the brand for nine years. What key skills or knowledge did you translate from Vivienne Westwood into your own brand? Simply everything. Vivienne and Andreas Kronthaler taught me everything I know about fashion and gave me a skillset and a method to achieve, translate and communicate. And why did you feel now was the right time to launch POAN? When something is so strong in identity, feels right and a clear vision of the future then it is always the right time. Tell us a little about the POAN man. What are his characteristics? I call him ‘The Modern Renaissance Man’: a man of the future with great admiration and awareness of his past. He is educated and cultured, kind and fun and that makes him already one of a kind. What was the thought process when you were deciding on Peoples Of All Nations as a brand name? That’s what London is to me: harmony through diversity. Differences are beautiful when they are looked upon without fear and with understanding. In terms of wholesaling, are you looking at expanding into the UK market? Absolutely, I consider the UK my home now. I have lived in London for the past 11 years and it is the birthplace of POAN. We have been selling in the UK since last year and there will be much more to look forward to. What kind of reaction did the brand receive during Milan Fashion Week? The reaction was great. Italians are a great audience for fashion shows; they love and live it and they are curious and ask a lot of questions, which I love.

What does the s/s 18 collection have in store? Where have you drawn your influence from? I drew inspiration from a book called The Phenomenon of Man written by the French scientist and Jesuit Pierre Teilhard de Chardin, which I took home from a monastery library when I was 19, I was fascinated by it then and it came back to me now, I find it incredibly relevant for where we are now. Based on this I have written a story which I’ll turn into a short film, where we will preserve our last Adam and Eve before embarking on our next evolutionary step Could you describe your signature style? Would you say your renowned for any garment in particular? It must be my ‘wardrobe classics’ because they are made in the special knit weave technique and are fully coordinated in colours and range through all categories for a man and woman. It’s the best innovation on classic garments out there – they are just a dream.

QUICK-FIRE QUESTIONS Most treasured piece in your wardrobe? Today: my freshly designed jeans. They are awesome. Early bird or night owl? Both come with entrepreneurship. Favourite travel destination? Everywhere, I travel a lot and I like to return to places and I like to discover new places. Favourite film or TV? I find The Young Pope quite extraordinary.

01130113 240240 22112211 INFO@SKOPES.COM INFO@SKOPES.COM

160 YEARS IN THE MAKING B E A PA R T O F T H E M O S T E XC LU S I V E K N I T W E A R B R A N D F O R G E N E R AT I O N S A L I M I T E D N U M B E R O F R E TA I L L I S T I N G S A V A I L A B L E . T O E N Q U I R E A B O U T B E C O M I N G A N E X C L U S I V E S T O C K I S T, C A L L + 4 4 ( 0 ) 1 4 8 4 8 4 8 4 3 4 O R E M A I L I N F O R M AT I O N @ S L A I T H. C O. U K

THE ADVENT URE GOES ON 06. - 08. August 2017 Hall 19 Booth M6 0