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MWB-ONLINE.CO DECEMBER 2017 | CONTENTS | 07

F E A T U R E S 12

Online Insider

Advice, news and issues online

Retail Insider

The latest in-store news

Product News

Rounding up the key stories this month

In-season stock

Jacket In

Lord of the cords

Profiling the latest label to hit Soho, The Cords & Co

Exhibition Calendar

The dates to remember for the a/w 18 buying season

London Fashion Week Men’s

What to expect from the capital this January

Pitti Uomo

Special events, guest designers and brands to catch in Florence

Fashion SVP

Learn more about the next edition of the sourcing show

Top Drawer

Discovering more about the show’s latest menswear launch

Panorama

Read our preview of one the leading shows in the calendar

The Premium Group

Highlights from the forthcoming Premium, SEEK, Bright, Show & Order

and #Fashiontech

Jacket Required

The London tradeshow reveals its latest partnership and new signings

Moda

Find out how Moda Gent is redefining menswear this season

R E G U L A R S 9 10 16

Comment News Interview

Alexander Stutterheim

Last Orders With…

Stephan Hohmann

Front cover:

The Cords & Co +46 733 49 09 24

MWB-ONLINE.CO DECEMBER 2017 | COMMENT | 09

COMMENT E D I T O R Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com — D E P U T Y

E D I T O R

Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — C O N T R I B U T O R S Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — D E S I G N E R S Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — S E N I O R

S A L E S

M A N A G E R

Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — S U B S C R I P T I O N S Phil Cowley phil.cowley@moda-exhibitions.co.uk — H E A D

O F

M E N S W E A R

Silvia Collins silvia@moda-uk.co.uk — E D I T O R I A L

D I R E C T O R

Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — P O R T F O L I O

D I R E C T O R

Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — M A R K E T I N G

D I R E C T O R

Stephanie Parker stephanie@ite-exhibitions.co.uk —

MWB is published 9 times per year by ITE Moda Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2017 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither ITE Moda Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication. Reprographics/printing Image Colourprint 01482 652323 —

At the start of November, I attended the Make It British Forum in Manchester – a city which is a hub of fashion design and production, where over 200 brands, manufacturers, retailers and academics met under one roof to demonstrate the true power of ‘Brand British’. — The event, which was held in association with the Manchester Fashion Institute, was a thought-provoking and insightful debate on ‘how to build a made in Britain brand’. The conversation throughout the day was positive with a collaborative ‘cando’ attitude, as delegates agreed that it was essential to forge together as a Make it British community to control of our future – especially as we step closer and closer to leaving the European Union. The line up of speakers reflected the diversity of the attendees, with a mix of both start-ups and more established British businesses. Designer Mat Booth set up Both Barrels Supply Co less than a year ago, having spent the best part of a decade working for the likes of Umbro, Nike and New Balance. “By making in Britain, I can understand the supply chain and make the business transparent. You can sit round the table and have the conversations you need to,” said Booth. But as the designer explained, it’s not enough to just have a Made in Britain label in your garment – you need to be ‘British-plus’ with quality, innovation, functionality, sustainability and integrity sewn into your brand. These values, after all, are what British manufacturing represents to both the domestic and international market. You just have to ask American consumers what words come to mind when they hear the word British, as footwear brand Hotter did when it was looking to expand into the US market. Quality was the leading answer (“tea” and “stuffy” were also included, but we won’t say anything else on that matter). When the question was posed of how do we make Made in Britain successful, Mike Stoll, co-owner of Manchester brand Private White VC, urged the government to address labelling laws and develop manufacturing skills in schools – something the Manchester Fashion Institute is renowned for. Finally, Kate Hills, CEO and founder of Make it British, summed up the sentiments of the day; “Honestly, transparency, integrity and being true to yourself – that’s what makes a British brand. Undoubtedly the key benefits of making in Britain are the convenience and speed of manufacturing in the UK. We’re seeing lots of new brands opting to ensure the Made in Britain label is part of their DNA and there’s a trend for big brands to re-shore. There is definitely power in brand British.” I couldn’t agree more. Victoria Jackson Editor

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by ITE Moda Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. ITE Moda Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.

MWB-ONLINE.CO DECEMBER 2017 | NEWS | 10

N E W S

MR PORTER LAUNCHES OWNBRAND LABEL, MR P.

BRITISH HOUSEHOLDS TO SPEND £821.25 ON CHRISTMAS With just over three weeks to go until Christmas, new research by VoucherCodes and the Centre of Retail Research (CRR) reveals British families are set to spend £821.25 on Christmas 2017, up 1.3 per cent on 2016 (£809.97) – and 54 per cent more than their European counterparts, who will spend an average of £532.01 (€612.90) on this year’s festivities. According to the forecast, once again the key battleground for retailers will be online, as spending continues to grow on PC, tablet and mobile. Data from the CRR reveals that online Christmas spending is set to grow 11.8 per cent on 2016, and is now the main driver of retail growth. However, these gains are set to be increasingly at the expense of the high street, with sales in physical shops expected to drop by 2.5 per cent in the UK. This decrease in bricks and mortar retail is higher than other European countries, who are set to experience an average of 1.1 per cent decrease. Those who plan to shop online will do so to avoid busy crowds (68 per cent), escape the long queues (62 per cent) and to more easily compare prices and reviews (50 per cent). Meanwhile, nearly one quarter (23 per cent) will plan to exclusively shop online to avoid having to put up with repetitive festive jingles. However, consumers claimed being able to touch and feel the products before making a purchase (59 per cent) was the biggest advantage associated with shopping in-store, in addition to being able to receive the item straight after purchasing (49 per cent). Overall in Europe, spending on mobile is forecast to rise to 44.3 per cent (£28.57 billion) of online business. UK shoppers are ahead of the trend with their mobiles, with an expected 54 per cent of Christmas online sales to take place on mobile. Only shoppers in Germany are predicted to carry out more of their spending on their mobile – at 50.2 per cent. A huge £78.69 billion will pass through the tills and online baskets this Christmas in the UK, up 1.4 per cent on 2016, as British families buy must-have presents, festive food and drink, and decorations. The biggest increases in spend year-on-year will be on Christmas travel, which is up 7.2 per cent on 2016 to £89.52. This is followed by festive decorations at £31.20, up 6.9 per cent on last year. Individuals are set to personally spend £244 on gifts, up 1.3 per cent on last year (£240.41), and 51.5 per cent more than the European average of £160.82 (€185.28). Toy sales are set to increase the most (+8.7 per cent), however, the clothing and footwear category is set to drop by minus 1.7 per cent of Christmas spend per head. —

Premium online retailer Mr Porter has launched its own label, Mr P. Created by a team of in-house designers, Mr P. is a year-round collection of future classics, centring on an Essentials range of core staples. In addition, there will be five limited-edition capsules every year – each trend-driven, seasonal and inspired by a style icon past or present. The muses for the November launch capsule collection are the post-war ‘School of London’ artists, during their prime in 60s Soho, London. The Mr P. launch collection spans 53 items across ready-to-wear, including 24 Essential styles available all year round and 29 seasonal styles within the debut collection. Standout styles include the 15-gauge cashmere knitwear, modernised Oxford shirts, Japanese selvedge denim and double-breasted overcoats in virgin wool and cashmere blends. —

FOUR MARKETING ENTER US MARKET WITH PARTNERSHIP London-based wholesale, retail and lifestyle company Four Marketing has partnered with New York agency Archetype Showroom, to create an exciting and innovative fashion wholesale and marketing agency. The new, aptly named, Four Marketing Archetype, will expand to encompass the entire second floor of Archetype Showroom’s current 676 Broadway home. The inception of Four Marketing Archetype occurred when the founders behind each company recognised their like-minded ambition to grow select brands in a global retail marketplace. By working together, their diverse skill set, relationships, and working experiences can offer their clients a clear competitive advantage in today’s retail climate. “We feel that partnering with the experienced and talented Archetype team gives us all the best possible chance to succeedt,” says Ben Banks, founder and director of Four Marketing. —

MWB-ONLINE.CO DECEMBER 2017 | NEWS | 11

NEWS IN BRIEF

SIMON CARTER LAUNCHES INTO INDIAN MARKET

ASOS EXTENDS SAME-DAY DELIVERY SERVICE

Simon Carter, founder of the eponymous label, has unveiled his flagship store in Mumbai. The third of a 10-store rollout in the next four months, the 1,200 sq ft store is within the upscale Phoenix Market City Hall. Carter has partnered with the Aditya Birla Group, who have a huge reach across the country and operate retail stores in over 700 cities across India. This is complimented by wholesale and concession operations. The retail design concept, created by Four Dimensions agency, reflects the designer’s personal taste and love of unusual and eclectic interiors. “I’m proud to partner with Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail and so happy to bring authentic British style to India,” says Simon Carter. “I believe India suits the brand, with its high quality, witty and eclectic style of dressing. My inspiration comes from the world around me, this collection is hugely inspired by India.” —

ASOS has extended its same-day delivery service, ASOS Instant, to Leeds and Manchester following the successful London launch last month and comes in time for Black Friday and the Christmas trading season. ASOS Instant is available to customers on orders placed before 10am, Monday to Friday. It costs £9.95 – a reduction in price from the original charge of £12.95 – and parcels will be delivered by CitySprint's On the dot service between 6-10pm on the same day. Further availability in other UK cities will follow in the New Year. "We're excited to be extending the reach of ASOS Instant to Leeds and Manchester following its successful launch in London. It is illustrative of our commitment to exploring delivery options that provide convenience and choice for ASOS customers," said Matt Rogers, delivery solutions and returns director at ASOS. —

LOVE BRANDS TO DISTRIBUTE GUESS WITHIN UK MARKET

UKFT NEW SECTOR SKILLS BODY FOR FASHION AND TEXTILE INDUSTRY

Leading fashion distribution agency Love Brands has signed a contract with GUESS Inc to sell the brand across the UK. The agency will manage the sales for GUESS Jeanswear, Accessories and Intimate Apparel, in addition to men’s and women’s footwear which Love Brand began distributing in July of this year. GUESS has existing retail operations within the UK, including 12 standalone stores in locations such as Regent Street, Knightsbridge and Westfield.In view of the opportunity this represents for UK retailers, Love Brands plans to exhibit extensively, with Moda UK set to showcase GUESS Footwear for a/w 18. “The product, pricing and brand perception make this a brand with so much potential,” says Michael Shalders, co-founder of Love Brands. “Its pricing is perceived as more expensive than it actually is, and the feel of the stores and products all reiterate this fact.” —

At a reception at the Houses of Parliament on 15th November, the UK Fashion & Textile Association (UKFT) announced it has become the Sector Skills Body for the Fashion & Textiles industry. UKFT has taken over the management of current apprenticeship frameworks with the responsibility of both registration and certification of apprentices in England, Scotland and Wales and to work with devolved nation’s stakeholders, to ensure that National Occupational Standards and apprenticeship provision for the sector are maintained and developed. “We are proud to take over from Creative Skillset, which has supported the industry since 2010, and we thank them for the achievements made during that time. It is important to ensure the management and certification of apprenticeships and other vocational qualifications is closely aligned to the needs of the industry,” says Adam Mansell CEO of UKFT. —

MCARTHURGLEN GROUP APPOINTS NEW CCO The McArthurGlen Group, Europe’s leading owner, developer and manager of designer outlets, has announced the appointment of Tom Enraght-Moony as the company’s Chief Customer Officer. In this newly created role, EnraghtMoony will be responsible for ensuring that the rapidly expanding group continues to deliver and evolve its outstanding service to customers and brand partners. He will sit on the Management Board of the McArthurGlen Group, and will report jointly to its Chairman, J.W. Kaempfer, and CEO, Julia Calabrese. The appointment comes following a period of strong growth for McArthurGlen across Europe. This spring, the business saw three important new projects come to completion in France (Provence), Austria (Parndorf) and the Netherlands (Roermond). Looking forward, the group also plans to deliver a further 50 per cent increase on McArthurGlen retail space to 900,000 m2 by 2021 across nine countries. — HUNTER OPENS THIRD GLOBAL STANDALONE STORE British heritage brand Hunter has opened its third global standalone store in Toronto. Set within Yorkdale Shopping Centre, the store will be Hunter’s first in North America. The concept for the 2,800 ft2 store was developed by Hunter’s in-house retail design team and demonstrates the brand’s commitment to North America as one of the brand’s largest markets. Set within the new extension of Toronto’s Yorkdale Shopping Centre on the ground floor – the highest sales mall per ft2 in Canada – it is a major development in the region. — PLAQUE UNVEILED TO REMEMBER LORD JOHN FOUNDERS A plaque to remember David and Warren Gold, founders of the iconic shop, Lord John – which dressed celebrities including The Rolling Stones, The Beatles, The Small Faces and The Kinks – was unveiled last month (22 November). The Gold family, Carnaby property owner Shaftsbury along with Westminster City Council, came together to hold a ceremony at 43 Carnaby Street, with Cllr Robert Davis, deputy leader of Westminster Council, paying tribute; “The Gold Brothers played a massive part in creating the sartorial spirit of the 60s. The Lord John shop made Carnaby Street the outfitter of choice for the era, whether it was clothing The Rolling Stones or moulding the sharp look of bands like The Small Faces and The Kinks. The top acts of the day knew the Gold brothers’ style was an essential part of their success. Lord John put music fashion on the map, and it is absolutely right that the store stays on the contemporary map of London with its own plaque,” he adds. The Gold brothers founded the Lord John business in 1963, having initially worked on market stalls in Petticoat Lane, East London. They opened their first shop on Carnaby Street on February 13, 1964. In their early years on the street, the brothers specialised in the Mod look, particularly Italian-cut men’s suits. —

MWB-ONLINE.CO DECEMBER 2017 | ADVICE | 12

ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.

ADVICE: FEEDING TIME: WHY FASHION BRANDS MUST MAKE THEIR PRODUCT PRICING CLEAR ONLINE

SAMUEL DEAN IS THE CEO AND FOUNDER, PRICESEARCHER

Commissioned research from Pricesearcher shows that the UK has the highest price volatility online compared to other EU nations. The British Retail Consortium (BRC) has warned that retail price inflation in September, which rose to almost 4 per cent and will be used to determine the business rates increase in April 2018, could land retailers with an extra £270 million tax bill. That, in turn, could prompt businesses to pass on the costs to consumers, who are already facing confusion over pricing. UK consumers may not be aware that the product they look at when they start their shopping journey can change its price by the time they get to the point of purchase, which is very confusing. Suspicion and mistrust at the shelf edge is certainly not something retailers need, as they already face an increasingly difficult battle to drive people into stores in the first place, due to growing market competition and the rising demand for online shopping. It’s crucial any strategy retailers implement around price is clear, considered and fair. The UK is a more dynamic environment than any other nation when it comes to online price changes, as our recent research shows. From indexing 500 million stock keeping units (SKUs) and individual product feeds online across ten countries over four years, we found that UK prices for the items analysed changed on average every six days. For France and Germany, it was every eight days, but in the US, there was half the level of price movements compared to the UK. The transparency created by the online shopping channel means that consumers simply won’t accept paying a different price for their product by the time they check out. Recently, some of the largest retailers in the UK have started exploring the use of price comparison technology and the practices related to it – and this could raise consumers’ eyebrows yet further, especially if dynamic pricing develops into the more controversial surge pricing. They’ll also know where to turn if they feel they aren’t being offered the right price, with competitors just a swipe of the screen or a click of a mouse away. Now is the time for retailers to list their product prices in ways that keep it simple for customers to understand. Retailers owe it to their customers to be fair and consistent – particularly in tough economic times. —

WEB WATCH

WWW.101STUDIO.CO.UK Launching earlier this year as a bricks and mortar store on Lambs Conduit Street, 101 Studio is the brainchild of Jake Hardy – owner of successful independent store, Number Six. Although the website sells a comprehensive selection of menswear, including Kestin Hare, La Paz, Velorbis and Winter Session, it really comes into its own with its blog covering art, design, travel destinations, food, drink and photography. —

NEWS

VIRTUAL REALITY CHANGING THE FUTURE OF SHOPPING With the birth of social Virtual Reality (VR) platforms, which allow thousands of people to socialise and interact within the same shared virtual reality space, it seems the digital retail landscape will be changing once more. The VR market is predicted to exceed $30bn by 2023. Ranging from automotive to the travel industry, there has been no end to the creative uses for Virtual and Augmented technologies for engaging consumers. The fashion industry, for example, has already seen some of its largest players advancing ahead of their competitors through the use of VR. American fashion designer Tommy Hilfiger has invested in in-store VR fashion shows to tempt consumers back into stores rather than shopping online. Other large brands to do similar things include cosmetics group Charlotte Tilbury, which launched its debut fragrance though an immersive experience within VR by using a film starring Kate Moss. Within a year since its release, the film has reached 50,000 views on YouTube. Virtual Reality specialist Eventual is taking this one step further by creating virtual retail spaces with elements of social VR. Users will be able to watch live catwalk shows from the comfort of their own home, with the ability to purchase items they like instantly while watching the show. This will also include a real-life shop attendant, who can help consumers around store displays and assist with purchasing. Fashion retailers can incorporate their brand style just like real-world shops when designing their virtual platform – which in turn is an easier way for brands to test out new branding or visual merchandising. “It’s a really exciting time for brands right now, as they can fully connect with their consumer while portraying their brand personality to its fullest,” says Peter Dobson, CEO, Eventual. —

G E N T 18â&#x20AC;&#x201C;20 February 2018 NEC Birmingham

Apply to exhibit or register for your ticket at moda-uk.co.uk

MWB-ONLINE.CO DECEMBER 2017 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 14

RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry. —

ADVICE HOW TO THRIVE THIS WINTER SALE SEASON DAX DASILVA is the founder and CEO of Lightspeed, the cloud-based commerce specialist.

CANADA GOOSE OPENS FLAGSHIP STORE

As large brands prepare to spend big on their respective winter campaigns, independent retailers also begin mapping out the best way to engage with prospective shoppers and encourage them to spend. It’s essential for independent retailers to make the most out of the onslaught of overspending. With a lot of customer business up for grabs, below are recommendations for independent retailers for the upcoming Christmas/winter sales period.

Canada Goose, the world’s leading maker of performance luxury apparel, has officially opened its London flagship store at 244 Regent Street. The 5,000 sq ft location brings the Canada Goose story to life and features Canadian design elements, including marble quarried in British Columbia. The store offers the broadest assortment of seasonal collections and exclusive collaborations anywhere in Europe, with visual moments throughout the space inviting consumers to engage and learn more about the company’s 60-year history. A selection of vintage pieces from the company’s 60-year archive will be on display and rotate seasonally. Customers can book personal shopping appointments with brand ambassadors, leave purchases at the store while they shop, as well as enjoy the store’s carry-out to car or ship to home service. “Opening our first European flagship store is another milestone for Canada Goose in a year where we’re celebrating our 60th anniversary,” says Dani Reiss, president and CEO of Canada Goose. “London is a truly world-renowned shopping destination and I am proud to bring our Canadian heritage, made in Canada craftsmanship and best-in-class products to the city’s historic streets.” As testament to the brand’s role as a champion of made in Canada, the store showcases Canadian artisans and craftsman, such as Jason Carter, an Aboriginal visual artist, whose soapstone-carved polar bears displayed throughout the store are a nod to the brand's long-time relationship with Polar Bears International. —

Recruit staff and extend operation hours Employing seasonal workers is common practice in the run up to Christmas. An increase in working hours will mean more employees, and you can keep costs down by hiring/training the right people well in advance to deal with the sudden influx of customers.

NEWS IN BRIEF

Merchandise your store Don’t miss out on those shoppers looking for last-minute deals or the perfect gift — which they may well just find in your inventory. Peak periods in retail could lead to long-term customer retention, so keep this in mind when preparing your store this winter.

KICKSLOVE WINS PRS MUSIC MAKEOVER COMPETITION Footwear store Kickslove has been voted the winner of PRS for Music’s prestigious Music Makeover competition for retailers, which was launched seven years ago to showcase and raise awareness of the important effect that music can have on local businesses. An expert judging panel was impressed by founder Lisa Barlow Weber’s vision of how music could develop Kickslove, with concepts for a future live music element as well as enhancing the current background music set up. —

L’ESTRANGE LONDON OPENS STANDALONE STORE Menswear label L’Estrange London has opened a pop-up store on Berwick Street, with its doors open for the next three months. The L’Estrange Apartment brings the brand's studio to Soho and creates a homefrom-home feel for shoppers to discover the latest collection, as well as their favourite interior brands. The store offers services such as the 12-Minute Wardrobe – a concept which sees an in-store tailor make any alterations within 12 minutes, and sending you your products via same-day delivery free of charge. —

Go social While you may not have the budget to compete with big retailers, you can utilise the powerful reach of the various social channels. Social media today dominates marketing and advertising, so what better way to potentially reach millions of shoppers to inform them of your promotions and campaigns? Tweet, snap, upload and post so shoppers understand your offering both in-store and online.

Optimise your business with ePOS Christmas represents a very hectic period for shoppers. Your in-store inventory should reflect what your customers can find online and enable them to shop any time of the day. Multiple payment methods, 24/7 sales and reducing time spent shopping via an ePOS offers a strategy that will set you apart from competitors.

MWB-ONLINE.CO DECEMBER 2017 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 15

SHOPPED: ROOM 14 MENSWEAR How is trade at the moment? It’s ticking along nicely and my a/w 17 product is selling well. I'd say I'm on par with last year, which I'm happy with as retail is tough overall. In the last 12 months, I've worked hard to balance my forward and short-order brands to be in line with my customer identity. For my brand-loyal customers, Farah, Fred Perry and Religion continue to be consistent. For guys wanting instant fixes, Rose London, Sik Silk and 11 Degrees have performed well. — What trends have performed well for you? ROWAN HINES, OWNER, ROOM 14 The athleisure trend has been the stand-out look for most of MENSWEAR, the year for me. Predominantly, my core demographic is 16-25 ASHTON-UNDER-LYNE year old, and they tend to follow brands on social media heavily. Brands like 11 Degrees, Sik Silk and Rose London nail the Athleisure look perfectly. My customers tend to really pick up on brands when there's a strong combination of product placement and social media presence. I trade well off the back of this. — Will you be going into sale earlier than Boxing Day? Yes, I'll be reluctantly involved with Black Friday. I've done well in the past, but this year my offer is going to be shallower and shorter. As a small retailer, reducing margin so close to Christmas is tough to take, but I feel if I'm not involved, I may lose out.

IN FOCUS: OBJECT 519 BARLOW MOOR RD, MANCHESTER M21 8QA

ESTABLISHED: 2009 BRANDS: CHUP SOCKS, ROMP BOY, WILD BUNCH, PARABOOT, OTTERWELL & TANNER GOODS.

REMUS UOMO UNVEILS LATEST RETAIL DEVELOPMENT Leading menswear brand Remus Uomo has opened its new flagship store on St Stephen’s Green, Dublin. The new store opens in the same location as the brand’s former pop-up concept space, with a newly expanded store showing the full Remus Uomo retail design. Comprising over 1,700 sq ft on the ground floor of a converted coach house, the new store is 50 per cent larger than the pop-up, which closed for renovations in early August. The refit is a sympathetic renovation of a historic former coach house, using the building’s original period features alongside the high-end, modern design of the new retail store. The refit encompasses a custom-designed lighting and sound system and furniture created and installed by Terry Design. This is based on an overall concept created by the brand in partnership with Jody Wylie Architects. — NEWS IN BRIEF

Established in 2009 by Rachael Otterwell and husband Alex, Object has grown quite the cult following in its native Manchester. A lifestyle store, comprising womenswear, menswear, interiors and more, it offers an eclectic mix of artisan products and niche brands. Starting life as an online destination, Otterwell knew the ethos of Object really lent itself to the senses of touch, sight and smell, so the natural transition was to open a bricks and mortar store. Nearly a decade on, the location of Barlow Moor Road, Chorlton, has become a must-visit for shoppers looking for something they won’t find on the high street. Although small in size, the design of the store certainly packs a punch and is perfectly merchandised, with plywood on the walls to create a neutral backdrop to the many products on offer. In terms of buying, the creative duo are more partial to seeking unheard of labels than visiting trade shows, which is prevalent in their diverse mix of brands – many exclusive to Object.

JOHN LEWIS TRIALS NEW SHOPPING EXPERIENCE John Lewis is introducing a ‘conciergestyle’ shopping experience to be trialled at its new service-led shop in Oxford as part of plans to reinvent the department store. The new Oxford shop has one-fifth of its floor space dedicated to services and experiences. It will offer 21 different services in total, from travel advice to eye tests through to a children’s shoe-fitting service, child car seat fitting advice and a nursery advice service. Brand-new services, meanwhile, will include a free personal-styling service for men, free technology-training workshops to help customers get the most out of their purchases and learn about the very latest technology, and John Lewis’s first express nail and brow bar. —

MWB-ONLINE.CO DECEMBER 2017 | INTERVIEW | 16

INTERVIEW

ALEXANDER STUTTERHEIM Victoria Jackson caught up with founder and creative director of Scandinavian outerwear brand Stutterheim, Alexander Stutterheim, to discover why he chose to return to the business after a two-year hiatus, and to learn more about the brand’s latest collaboration – this season with Italian fashion house Marni. — Victoria Jackson: You have recently returned to Stutterheim as the CEO and creative director. What drove that decision? Alexander Stutterheim: I got the creative edge and passion back after some time off being operative as CD. Initially I wanted to rest but all of a sudden, I started another brand. I guess I am driven by ideas and do not know where my boundaries are. Fortunately, I have many colleagues helping my ideas and visions come to life. VJ: How long have you been away from the business? AS: Operatively two years, but during this time I was still on the board and worked as a creative consultant. VJ: What was your career path prior to launching the brand? AS: I had a combined university degree in Swedish and Psychology, and a great passion for writing, which led to a successful career as a copy writer. I founded Stutterheim Raincoats in 2010, drawing inspiration from the classic fisherman’s raincoat my grandfather wore in the 60s. With the tagline “Swedish melancholy at its driest”, I wanted to highlight the topic of melancholy, something that has become synonymous with the brand, and also includes a splash of irony; suggesting that things aren’t always as bad as they seem.

CEO AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR STUTTERHEIM

MWB-ONLINE.CO DECEMBER 2017 | INTERVIEW | 17

VJ: What are you looking to achieve with the brand now you are, once again, steering the ship? AS: Together with team, I’m looking forward to returning to the brand’s core values and aesthetics and entering a new segment with boots and lightweight material based on those. I’m also looking at doing some interesting collaborations – for instance, our partnership with Marni will develop further. VJ: Who is the typical Stutterheim customer? AS: Stutterheim is an urban brand, but with a product made for bad weather, no matter if you’re in the city or out in the countryside, if you’re young or old. Anyone who wants a beautiful, handmade raincoat that will last for a long time is a Stutterheim customer. VJ: How many collections a year does Stutterheim make? AS: We release two collections a year. The collections include women’s, men’s and unisex styles, as well as a small children’s range. Beside the seasonal collections, we offer a core range that consists of Stutterheim styles, available all year round. In terms of the best-performing sector for us, the majority of annual growth is made up of sales from our A-lined women’s style, Mosebacke. Here we have insights that women tend to shop slightly more frequently online than men for our products. VJ: Where do you produce your products? AS: All our coats are handmade in the highest quality by skilled seamstresses. The design and development of our prototypes takes place in Stockholm in our headquarters. The ongoing production of our coats can be found in Poland, Portugal and Turkey, where we work very closely with our factories, with regular visits and daily contact, to ensure the best working conditions, as well as the highest quality products. VJ: Which is your best-performing market globally? AS: The United States is very strong for us, as well as Europe. We’re currently available in more than 1,000 retailers worldwide, including Barney’s

New York, Dover Street Market, Isetan and Le Bon Marché. The brand is also available to buy in our two flagship stores at Åsögatan 136 in Stockholm and Mulberry Street in New York. VJ: How do you currently perform in the UK? Is the UK wholesale market an area you’re looking to grow or are you satisfied with the select number of accounts you have now? AS: We are definitely interested in making the UK market grow. We have a number of high-level accounts, including Oi Pollio, Kafka, Autograph, Peggs & Sons, Allotment Store, END Clothing and By Cloth. VJ: Can you tell us more about the upcoming Marni collaboration? AS: Stutterheim has practised a reactive approach to brand collaborations, as we have been fortunate to get a lot of interesting requests from different brands (Jay Z/Barneys, Volvo, Henrik Vibskov, Alpha Industries, among others) from early on in our journey. In late 2016, we took the decision to have a more proactive approach to collaborations and started by compiling a list. In the beginning, there was just one name on that list – Marni. We wanted to work with someone much bigger than us – preferably in the luxury category to be able to reach people not entirely aware of Stutterheim and what we do. Marni has this unique integrity and a simple yet avant-garde way of conducting themselves, both in their collections and in their brand universe. We saw an interesting match combining the two of us. I have been involved in the development of the capsule collection mainly from an overall level – a lot of the designs are old Marni patterns and therefore a lot of the work happened in Milan. I’m very proud about it and our production team has

done an amazing job, together with the team at Marni, on this. It will be inspiring to keep developing our partnership. VJ: Which channels will the Marni collection be sold through? AS: The capsule is sold in selected Marni retail stores, wholesale accounts globally, as well as Stutterheims online store. VJ: When you’re choosing partners to collaborate with, what characteristics of a brand do you look for? AS: We try to be a very equal brand in all aspects, so for us a collaboration needs balance between the creative teams as well with production. It is a give and take and compromise. The final result needs to have the DNA from both brands, otherwise it is not equal. Also of course we are thinking of the match between the brands in terms of craftsmanship, high-end performance, aesthetics and whether the brand is an appreciated label in their segment. VJ: What are you plans for the upcoming a/w 18/19 season? AS: We’re focusing the raincoat collection on the styles we know people like and developing them with great care. To this we will add new items in new segments, including lightweight raincoats, using more technical fabrics. We’ll also be developing a collection of handmade rubber boots in January 2018, followed by a bigger range for the fall. VJ: In terms of the retail arm of your business, is opening a flagship store in the UK a consideration? AS: If my heart could win, we will for sure have a Stutterheim store in the UK during 2018.

“ In late 2016, we took the decision to have a more proactive approach to collaborations and started by compiling a list. In the beginning, there was just one name on that list – Marni. We wanted to work with someone much bigger than us – preferably in the luxury category to be able to reach people not entirely aware of Stutterheim and what we do.”

INDX MENSWEAR

A BESPOKE TRADE SHOW FOR INDEPENDENT RETAILERS

28 - 30 January 2018

free entry free refreshments free lunch free parking

register now www.indxshow.co.uk • Arena • Ashwood Leathers • Atelier Torino • Baileys • Ben Sherman • Boardmans • Bown of London • British Boxers • Bruhl • B.Bros • Buckle 1922 • Calvin Klein* • camel active • Casamoda • Charles Smith • Chris Cayne • Colours & Sons • Comfy Balls • Crew Clothing • Digel • Double Two (Paradigm - Bar Harbour) • Duke • Failsworth • Farah Classic • Farah Jeans • Fraas • Fulton • Fynch Hatton • Gabicci Classic • Gabicci Vintage • Gaventa • Geox • Giordano • Glenmuir • Guide London • Gurteen • Hatico • hattric • Herbie Frogg • HJ Hall • Hunt & Holditch • Ibex • Jack & Jones • Jockey • John White Shoes • Joules • Just Sheepskin • Knightsbridge • Levi’s* • Lizard King • LA Smith • Maddox Street • Mag Mouch and Sophos • Meyer • MMX • Musto • Oakman • Olymp • ONLY & Sons • Original Penguin • Osan (Pringle/Jeff Banks/Glenmuir)* • Oxford Leathercraft • Pasquale Cutarelli • Peter England • Peter Gribby • Pre End • Pure • Redpoint • Rich Friday • Rocola • Rupert & Buckley • Saint Hilaire • Scott by The Label • Seidensticker • Selected • Skopes • s.Oliver • The British Bag Company • Thomas Kirkwood • Tilley • Tootal • Totes • Trapper Leathers • Tresanti • Trespass • Venti • Viyella • Weird Fish • Wrangler *socks/underwear

Cranmore Park Exhibition Centre, Cranmore Avenue, Shirley, Solihull, B90 4LF | T: 0121 683 1417

MWB-ONLINE.CO DECEMBER 2017 | PRODUCT NEWS | 19

P R O D U C T

FORM MEETS FUNCTION Brand new to the market, MAM Originals is an ethical watch brand designed in Barcelona for women and men, combining modern and functional details into one contemporary design. Produced from a thin and lightweight sustainable teak, ebony and grey maple hardwood, the collection is crafted from high-quality recycled materials. Retailing at £131, the watch features a minimalist face, incorporating MAM’s own logo, cleverly disguised until the second hand creates a line of the 12th hour though the letter A. www.mamoriginals.com —

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RADAR Spotlighting style OLD ENGLISH WITH A TWIST Menswear brand Marc Darcy is celebrating a successful 2017, reporting a 57 per cent in revenue year-on-year, a 66 per cent increase in average monthly customer spend and a 120 per cent rise in visitors to the site since its launch in 2015. The Manchester-based business, which has been designing and producing old English style formalwear with a modern twist since 1989, credits its growth to increased online marketing efforts. —

LÉON BARA ESTABLISHED: 2015 HISTORY: Founded by Omar Afridi and Hugo Edwards, the brand made its debut in Paris in 2016. SIGNATURE STYLE: Clean lines and unexpected silhouettes. Léon Bara was launched in April 2015 and released its first collection in Paris in January 2016. Founded by Omar Afridi with Hugo Edwards as head of brand development, the brand is working to bring function and utility to men’s designer fashion. “Our customers appreciate luxury products, but also have an interest in technical clothing, whether it is military, outdoors or sports,” says Afridi. Our aim is to combine these two approaches to create a uniform relevant for movement through the modern city. Key pieces in the collection include the Box Blazer, introduced in s/s 17, which is a seemingly classic threebutton blazer, but with a modern oversized fit and outerwear benefits such as water resistance, a cape in the back concealing a vent, a carry strap and three interior pockets. Another Léon Bara highlight is the Plaza shirt – a spread-collared over-shirt with a cape concealing a vent similar to the Box Blazer. The a/w 18 collection will see the design reinvented to become a formal shirt in refined fabrics to be worn with a blazer and pleated trousers. —

BENCH MARK With its Cruise 2018 collection, Bench draws influence from the theme “Hyper Electric” which combines vibrant colours, technical refinement and eclectic streetwear. The range is characterised by the needs of the modern city dweller, including the insulator jacket and the heritage fleece. The colour palette, meanwhile, is inspired by pop and pixel art, combining pink and berry tones with turquoise and navy blue. In terms of fabrics, buyers can expect nylon, structured mesh and ottoman fabrics. —

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PRODUCT NEWS

STEP BY STEP

BOXING DAY Swedish sport fashion brand Bjorn Borg celebrates the launch of their Centre collection by teaming up with undefeated South London-based boxer, Isaac Chamberlain. Hailing from Brixton, the cruiserweight boxer is considered to be one of the most promising prospects in British boxing. Set in his home town, the Centre campaign embraces urban subcultural influences, channelling a journey of Chamberlain’s favourite London landmarks. The a/w collection presents classic styles that have been reimagined with premium touches on high-quality sportswear, featuring a range of organic cotton hoodies, track pants, polo shirts and underwear. —

ChattyFeet is a London-based brand putting the fun back into dressing. Designed to make the wearer smile, each design has a different personality featuring characters such as Don Cottone, Frida Callus, Kate Middle-Toe, David Sock-Knee and Albert Einstoe. With an RRP of £8, these make the ideal point of sale addition to your store. —

STYLE HIGHLIGHT

HENRI LLOYD SPORTS New for spring, Henri Lloyd has launched a multi-activity selection of sports apparel, for both men and women. Designed to deliver a broad end use, it benefits from the brand’s expertise at technical product development and innovation from its established sailing range. The Henri Lloyd Sport collection will incorporate the leading edge of high-performance fabric and technologies, including Polygiene Permanent Odour Control technology and the latest in durable water-repellent coatings. —

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DUKE £17 0115 977 0009

MERC £30 020 8838 2444

FARAH £40 01376 502345

S4 £68 020 3432 6387

SKOPES £44 01132 402211

BUGATTI

JACKET IN Lightweight jackets, such a unlined parkas, Harrington’s, bombers and wind cheaters, are the ideal transitional piece for the unpredictable British weather. A versatile layering essential, this forthcoming spring season welcomes pops of unexpected colour such as oxblood and pink. — Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale

NATIVE YOUTH £27.75 0161 835 2064

SHACKLETON £167 01603 417903

REALM & EMPIRE £64 01858 466729

Mike Smith E: m.smith@bruno-saint-hilaire.com M: 07831178009

MWB-ONLINE.CO DECEMBER 2017 | PROFILE | 24

LORD OF THE CORDS When Mikael Söderlindh sold the majority stake of his Happy Socks brand back in January for a reported €76 million, he already had the wheels in motion to launch a new brand dedicated to the wonders of corduroy, called The Cords & Co. Tom Bottomley discovers more about Söderlindh’s new venture. —

Along with his partner, creative director Viktor Tell, former Happy Socks CEO and co-founder, Mikael Söderlindh, launched Swedish brand Happy Socks in 2008, and seemingly built a sock and underwear empire out of nothing. No mean feat. That’s why you’d surely have to back him to turn his new brand, The Cords & Co, into another success. The Cords & Co’s new London flagship shop, at 2 Silver Place in Soho, launched on August 31, joined by other flagships in Stockholm, Paris, New York and Los Angeles, as well as a website with worldwide shopping available, and a further flagship shop in Japan being added soon. Mikael Söderlindh is the main founder of the brand, and Viktor Tell is also a co-founder and co-owner of The Cords & Co. Söderlindh says: “It definitely felt like the right decision to focus on something new. I still own a smaller part of Happy Socks, but

I am not involved in a day-to-day business any more. Viktor is, however, still the creative director of the brand, and still very involved.” Although the product category has shifted, Söderlindh’s drive and focus remains highly charged, even reinvigorated. “I love to work, and I love new challenges,” he says. “My ambition is to always engage in something I feel truly passionate about, whether that be socks or something else. I have started The Cords & Co together with a bunch of super talented people, because I love corduroy and I always have. That is what drives me – to find something you love and then get to spend all of your time engaging in it.” With that kind of passion, you get the feeling this has all the makings of Happy Socks mark II, but why such a focus on cords? “There is a time for everything, and I definitely believe people are ready for a lasting alternative to denim. That is

what we want to be. We want corduroy to be a wardrobe essential in the same way as denim has been for the last centuries.” Söderlindh says he has always been a frequent denim wearer himself, but he feels that denim has, in a way, reached its highest point. “What more is there to do with it exactly?” he asks. “Corduroy, on the other hand, is super interesting and still very unexplored. There is no other brand that has done exactly what we´re doing, and that gives us endless possibilities to explore, develop and work with this fabrication.” He wants people to discover, or rediscover, their love for corduroy. “Most people have a memory they associate it with, which is fantastic and nothing we want to take away. But we also want to be the brand that takes corduroy into the future by giving it the love it deserves in an updated and contemporary way.”

MWB-ONLINE.CO DECEMBER 2017 | PROFILE | 25

The initial response to the new brand, and corduroy-focused products, has been very encouraging at shows such as Pitti Uomo, Seek and Jacket Required but, while wholesale will be a very important avenue to grow the brand, Söderlindh sees that as something that will happen organically. He comments: “We were amazed how well it was received by the few fashion forward retailers. I believe it is usually not so common that retailers dare to try out a new brand before they see how it performs. So we are super happy about that.” In the a/w 17 debut collection, the silhouette is simple and classic, with heavy references from utilitarian and military wear. The signature pieces are reinvented iconic garments such as the biker jacket, the trucker jacket, the fishtail parka and, of course, the five-pocket pant, which comes in colours such as sky blue, red and green, as well as the usual black and navy. There’s also classic jersey pieces which have all been flipped into corduroy, and some camouflage and leopard prints to add some more edge. Söderlindh says they offer a wide selection of must-haves that will take you through the season. “You can basically build an entire wardrobe around our collection and, as soon as you invest in one piece, you will notice that it is not enough. It’s for both men and women, and we also offer a smaller selection of unisex items.” The new London shop is 560 square foot, divided over two floors. The store theme is a

clash between skate culture and high fashion, and contains both soft and hard elements. Söderlindh says he likes contrasts, just like corduroy. He also says that the flagship stores will always be the heart and core of the brand. “They largely reflect us and our vision, and they are located at the best addresses in all cities where we choose to open. With a fabric like corduroy, the opportunity to touch and feel is very important, if not even crucial. We´d see our flagship shops as the showrooms of the brand, where our customer can experience our brand first hand. I believe retail is key when building a brand going forward.” The idea is for the in-store experience to be inspiring and welcoming, and a real complement to the brand’s digital shopping experience, as well as to the key high image wholesale accounts that are carrying the brand. “Our stores are meticulously curated by our in-house retail team, together with Swedish architects ‘In Praise of Shadows’, and they have worked extremely hard to create fantastic environments within each store,” offers Söderlindh. “We have had a clear vision throughout to be able to create personal stores where our passion for the fabric shines through.” UK independents that have already bought into the brand include Oi Polloi, Liquor Store and Mercantile, though Söderlindh says they are of course hoping to add high image key department stores, as well as more independents in the UK.

“We are super excited over the positive reactions we have received so far,” he says. “There is currently a very large interest in corduroy, which is, of course, fantastic.” The s/s 18 collection is in a way a continuation of the a/w 17 collection. Accessible and wearable, with classic silhouettes and pieces that have been flipped into corduroy. Key pieces for spring include shorts, shirts and bomber jackets for men, and shorts, oversized tops and kimono jackets for women. Corduroy tees and crew necks are also essential pieces of the collection. Söderlindh says it’s too early to jump to any conclusions on which items are the best-sellers. “What we can say is that we have many products that have been very appreciated by our customers, our 5-pocket pants and jackets being two of them. Our focus is to provide our customer with fantastic corduroy products which we hope will be worn for a very long time.” With this fresh brand to get his teeth stuck into, Söderlindh can draw on his early experience when launching Happy Socks back in 2008. “What I have learnt is to have fun every day,” he comments. “If you don´t have fun at work, you cannot be successful. I have also learnt to surround myself with talented people, people who inspire me and challenge me. I have also learnt to take chances and do what my gut tells me to – you win some and you lose some. Such a cliché,” he says, laughing. “But also so very true.”

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EXHIBITION CALENDAR The essential guide to the a/w 18 buying season. — Sponsored by:

London Fashion Week Men’s 6-8 January 2018 Shore Studios, 180 Strand, London 020 7759 1999 www.londonfashionweekmens.com

Fashion SVP 16-17 January 2018 Olympia, London 020 8771 3555 www.fashionsvp.com

Pitti Uomo 9-12 January 2018 Fortezza da Basso, Florence +39 055 369 3238 www.pittimmagine.com

FashionTech Berlin 16 January 2018 Kraftwerk, Berlin hello@fashiontech.berlin www.fashiontech.berlin

White 13-15 January 2018 Via Tortona, Milan +39 023 459 2785 www.whiteshow.it

Bright 16-18 January 2018 Arena Berlin, Berlin +49 69 66962157 www.brighttradeshow.com

Milan Men’s Fashion Week 13-16 January 2018 Various venues throughout Milan +39 027 77 1081 www.milanomodauomo.it

Seek 16-18 January 2018 Arena, Berlin Eichenstraße 4, 12435 Berlin +49 30 20889 13400 www.seekexhibitions.com

Top Drawer 14-16 January 2018 Olympia, London 020 7384 8242 www.topdrawer.co.uk

Premium 16-18 January 2018 Station Exhibition Halls, Berlin +49 30 6290 850 www.premiumexhibitions.com Show & Order 16-18 January 2018 Kühlhaus Berlin, 10963 Berlin +49 30 20 8891 3400 www.showandorder.de

Panorama 16-18 January 2018 Messe Berlin, Berlin +49 30 27595 6040 www.panorama-berlin.com Selvedge Run 16-18 January 2018 Marshall Haus, Messedamm 22 +49 30 4057 6516 www.selvedgerun.com Paris Men’s Fashion Week 17-21 January 2018 Various venues throughout Paris +33 1 42666444 www.modeaparis.com MAN Paris 17-21 January 2018 Pavillon Vendôme: 7 Place Vendôme, Paris 1 +33 9 67420141 www.manwomanshows.com TranoÏ Paris: Men’s 19-21 January 2018 Carreau du Temple and Palais de la Bourse, Paris +33 1 53018490 www.tranoi.com WHO’S NEXT? 19-22 January 2018 Parc des expositions de la Porte de Versailles, Paris +33 1 40137483 www.whosnext-tradeshow.com

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK DECEMBER 2017 | SHOW GUIDE | 27

Liberty Las Vegas 12-14 February 2018 Sands Expo, Venetian, Las Vegas +1 212 473 4523 www.libertyfairs.com

Modefabriek 21-22 January 2018 Amsterdam Rai, Amsterdam +31 2 0442 1960 www.modefabriek.nl Mrket New York 21-23 January 2018 Jacob Javits Center, New York +1 218 740 6873 www.ubmfashion.com/shows/mrket Project New York 21-23 January 2018 +1 218 740 6873 www.ubmfashion.com/shows/ projectny Liberty New York 23-25 January 2018 Pier 94, 55th St & 12th Ave, New York +1 212 473 4523 www.libertyfairs.com Capsule New York 23-25 January 2018 Pier 94, 711 12th Ave, NewYork +1 212 206 8310 www.capsuleshow.com Man New York 23-25 January 2018 50 Varick Street, New York +33 9 6742 0141 www.manwomanshows.com Jacket Required 24-25 January 2018 Old Truman Brewery, London 01484 846 069 www.jacket-required.com INDX Menswear 28-30 January 2018 Cranmore Park, Solihull 0121 683 1417 www.indxshow.co.uk/menswear

CIFF 31 January – 2 February 2018 Bella Centre, Copenhagen +45 5060 4521 www.ciff.dk CIFF Raven 31 January – 2 February 2018 Bella Centre, Copenhagen +45 5060 4521 www.ciff.dk Revolver 31 January – 2 February 2018 Revolver Village, Halmtorvet 11 Copenhagen V +45 3964 8586 revolver.dk IMC Menswear 4-5 February 2018 Whittlebury Hall, Northampton 01473 256 061 www.imcmenswear.co.uk London Edge 11-12 February 2018 Business Design Centre, London 0116 279 5179 www.londonedge.com Pure London 11-13 February 2018 Olympia, London 020 3033 2015 www.purelondon.com Micam 11-14 February 2018 Fiera Milano, Milan +39 0243 8291 www.themicam.com Sourcing at Magic 11-14 February 2018 Las Vegas Convention Centre +1 218 740 6873 www.ubmfashion.com/shows/ sourcing-magic

Capsule Las Vegas 12-14 February 2018 Sands Expo Centre, Hall B, Las Vegas +1 212 206 8310 www.capsuleshow.com Pool 12-14 February 2018 Mandalay Bay Convention Centre, Las Vegas +1 218 740 6873 www.magiconline.com/ pooltradeshow Project Las Vegas 12-14 February 2018 Mandalay Bay Convention Center, Las Vegas +1 218 740 6873 www.ubmfashion.com/shows/ project Moda UK 18-20 February 2018 NEC, Birmingham 01484 846 069 www.moda-uk.co.uk Collection Première Moscow 19-22 Feburary 2018 Expocentre, Moscow +49 2 1143 9601 www.cpm-moscow.com Poznań Fashion Fair 21-22 February 2018 Glogowska Street 14, 60734, Poznań +48 61 8692000 www.targimodypoznan.pl Asia Apparel Expo 22-24 February 2018 Messe Berlin, Berlin +852 2700 6726 asiaapparelexpo.com Meet The Manufacturer 23-24 May 2018 Old Truman Brewery, London 01372 610 808 www.meetthemanufacturer.co.uk

MWB-ONLINE.CO DECEMBER 2017 | PREVIEW | 28

LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN’S

OLIVER SPENCER

PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND

KENT MEN

EDWARD CRUTCHLEY

Returning to The Store Studios for the new season, London Fashion Week Men’s will welcome a plethora of home-grown design talent for a/w 18. With a newly revised three-day schedule – a decision taken in light of the buying calendar starting at the beginning of January – the event will see designers such as What We Wear, Christopher Raeburn, Edward Crutchley, Liam Hodges, Wales Bonner and many more showcase their latest collections. Buyers are set to experience an increase in See Now, Buy Now, a concept which began on the catwalk last year. Ranges from British designers Oliver Spencer, Lou Dalton and Bobby Abley, for example, will all be available to buy directly after the catwalk presentations. Finally, running alongside the comprehensive catwalk schedule, the Designer Showrooms will place focus on niche, upcoming brands for buyers to view in a more relaxed environment.

ASTRID ANDERSEN

BOBBY ABLEY

RICHARD JAMES

JOHN SMEDLEY

6-8 January 2019, The Shore Studios, 180 Stand, London

L O N D O N FA S H I O N W E E K M E N S . C O M

#LFWM

PITTI UOMO 93 9-12 JANUARY 2018 – FORTEZZA DA BASSO, FLORENCE

With a series of special events, new signings and guest designers, we take a look at what premium menswear trade fair Pitti Uomo has in store for its 93rd edition. — With over 1,200 brands, including 227 brand new signings to whet buyers’ appetites, the 93rd edition of Pitti Uomo is set to welcome the biggest retailers, buyers and press this coming January. Set over 60,000 sq mt of exhibition space, there will be 14 areas exploring all avenues of men’s fashion, with a special focus on athleisure and a greater emphasis given to contemporary and experimental menswear styles. It will also present a new generation of artisans from across the globe, alongside gender-neutral collections. In line with showcasing new talent, the seasonal theme for a/w 18 is Pitti Live Movie, transforming the fair into a film festival, with various sections of the show interpreted as genres including thriller, adventure, action and spy stories. Pavilions will become movie theatres, while the main forecourt of the Fortezza da Basso will evoke a movie theatre district with billboards announcing scheduled blockbuster, cult and indie films. Highlights of the show are set to include the return of Made in Italy lifestyle brand, Paul & Shark, which will present its Typhoon Project, marrying craftsmanship with high-tech for a/w 18. Designer Karl Lagerfeld will showcase his menswear collection in the Sala dell’Orologio at the Costruzioni Lorenesi, while Kappa – the iconic sportswear brand – will present its latest offer with an exclusive booth in the Belfiore area.

Another brand to return to the 93rd edition of the show is Pepe Jeans London, which is celebrating its 45th anniversary by presenting, in addition to its a/w 18 collection, a revolutionary environmentally friendly and sustainable development process for the treatment of denim. January will also see the special attendance of iconic footwear brand Birkenstock, which will unveil its Birkenstock Box Project, a new mobile retail concept and a short film by Dan Tobin Smith. One of the key events of Pittu Uomo 93 is the International Woolmark Prize – one of the world’s most prestigious awards aimed at supporting upcoming talent, returning to Florence. The announcement of the winners in the menswear and womenswear categories will take place during the show. Twelve finalists from around the world will present innovative collections to show the potential of Australian merino wool. The event, held at the Stazione Leopolda, is a joint production in cooperation with Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery. Thanks to a new collaboration with Korea Creative Content Agency (KOCCA), Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery will once again be turning the spotlight on the most exciting brands from South Korea, with two catwalk shows dedicated to promoting the country’s talented young designers. On the catwalk, for this edition,

there will be collections from Beyond Closet and Bmuet(te). The winner of last season’s WHO’S NEXT accolade, Luca Magliano, meanwhile, will present his label MAGLIANO, with a fashion show at the Dogana featuring his minimal designs. Another key event in the Pittu Uomo 93 schedule is the Tokyo Fashion Award, which is set to bring its six finalists to the Fortezza. Thanks to the agreement stipulated between Pitti Immagine and Tokyo Fashion Award, the collections of six up-and-coming Japanese brands, selected by a prestigious jury – including Body Song, Children of the Discordance, Digawel, F/CE, Kuon and Soe – will be on view in the Fortezza at Touch! (Medici Pavilion). In regards to areas within the show, Pitti Immagine continues to support MAKE, a section that promotes the rediscovery of artisanal working techniques. Strategically showcased in the Sala della Ronda, with a new set design, buyers can expect to find brands such as Ammoment, Chapal, Klokers, Lamler, Project Twlv and Title of Work. Unconventional, the exhibition space that presents luxury underground brands, meanwhile, will feature an enlarged floor plan in two locations within the Archivi. Brands on offer include Backlash, Indice Studio, Limitato, MCQ, The Last Conspiracy and Ylati Footwear.

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BROOKS BROTHERS

ATHLOVERS

Brook Brothers has selected Pitti Uomo as the stage for the start of a very important anniversary – 200 years since the company’s founding in New York City. There will be a celebration of two centuries of style and innovation for the iconic American brand, featuring a fashion show and a special exhibition in one of the city’s most fascinating locations, Palazzo Vecchio. —

The a/w 18 season will see the launch of Athlovers, a special Pitti Uomo project in collaboration with Reda – the historical wool mill from Biella. The brand, known for its ability to combine technical textile experience with advanced styling, will provide each of the participating brands with the innovative fabrics of the Reda Active line to make one item for an exclusive showing at the fair. Hosted in the Polveriera, brands already confirmed include 42.54, Aeance, Dyne and GR1PS e ISAORA. —

M1992 The Pitti Uomo 93 Special Project will be an exclusive premiere for M1992, a new concept by the eclectic designer and Italian DJ Dorian Sterfano Tarantini. With a Special Project promoted by the Fondazione Pitti Discovery – born by the collaboration between Pitti Immagine and Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana – Tarantini will present a fashion show inspired by a cross-cutting experimental style. —

GUEST NATION FINLAND

UNDERCOVER by Jun Takahashi and TheSoloistTakahiromiyashita

The most promising names on the Finnish fashion scene will be the stars of the special Guest Nation project, sponsored by the Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery. Eight Finnish brands and designers have been selected to show their collections in the special area of the Spazio Carre (Padiglione Centrale – Lower Edit). The participants are Formal Friday, Ikla Wright x Turo, Mannisto, Maria Korkeila x R-Collection, Nomen Nescio, Rolf Ekroth, Saint Vacant and Vyner Articles. —

The guest designers who will present their menswear collections at the next edition of Pitti Uomo will be UNDERCOVER by Jun Takahashi and TheSoloistTakahiromiyashita. In a forward-thinking move for the show, each designer will unveil their a/w 18 offer back-to-back at the Stazione Leopolda on 11 January 2018, to symbolise and celebrate their friendship and mutual respect for each other’s work. —

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FASHION SVP Europe’s leading fashion manufacturing and sourcing event will offer buyers a ‘taster menu’ of the latest trends at its next edition, which runs on 16-17 January 2018 at London’s Olympia.

New area the Fashion Edit will showcase the latest trends in fabrics and garments, with advice and information from key manufacturers throughout the show. Rhonda Dearsley, Fashion SVP Event Manager, explains: “Whatever your brand size or philosophy, getting in on the ground floor of a future trend, or being able to exploit a new trend coming quickly to the fore within the fast-moving fashion environment, is a skill no successful fashion business can afford to be without. So, to highlight the design skills of our exhibitors, their flexibility and reactivity to an ever-changing environment, and to help you with what might just be the hot new trends for the future, we have put together this ‘taster menu’ of hot designs.” Another new feature at the show is the Fashion Station, an advice zone for budding new brands, fashion entrepreneurs and aspiring designers. Experts from Alison Lewy MBE (Fashion Angel), Fashion Jobs, Ethical Fashion Forum and Stobbs Solicitors will be on hand to advise on fashion business funding and mentoring, sustainable and ethical sourcing, what people are looking for in a

new designer, how to turn a design degree into a career and legal protection for new brands. In addition, visitors can attend free educational seminar sessions in the Sourcing Academy and hear from industry experts on topics such as ethical sourcing, digital retail, demanding new sourcing strategies, supply chain and production, is the fast fashion era over?, near shore versus far east sourcing and more. Expert speakers from a range of disciplines and organisations, including retailers, brands and manufacturers, offer knowledge, insight, advice and tips. Held twice a year, Fashion SVP is designed specifically for brands, designers, buyers and retailers who source manufacturing directly from factories. Now in its sixth year, the show provides visitors with the opportunity to meet over 100 suppliers who can provide manufacturing services on all garment and accessory types and materials from across Europe and the Mediterranean. Register for free at www.fashionsvp.com

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TOP DRAWER With a focus on menswear this season and the introduction of a number of new signings, we take a look at what’s in store for the next edition of Top Drawer. — Held at Olympia, London on 14-16 January 2018, the s/s 18 edition of Top Drawer will present over 1,500 design-led brands across Home, Gift, Fashion and Craft. The show has introduced MEN ONLY – a new concept area for menswear buyers showcasing an exclusive edit of niche and established brands for the new season. Buyers and retailers will also be able to source design-led products to complement their stores offer, with help from the MEN ONLY trail, created to help them pinpoint products from accessories to grooming to point of sale additions. For further information and to register, visit www.topdrawer.co.uk.

OLIVER SPENCER British designer Oliver Spencer will be showcasing his loungewear and accessory offer at the next edition of Top Drawer. Renowned for his effortlessly classic yet contemporary designs, Spencer is self-taught, establishing his brand after a decade at formalwear specialists Favourbrook. His loungewear follows the same design ethos of his mainline collection, with a range of premium basics such as pyjama trousers, slim-fit joggers and cotton T-shirts.

BOTH BARRELS SUPPLY CO Both Barrels Supply Co is a luxury luggage label designed, developed and handmade in the UK by Mat Booth. The mainline collection is crafted from weather-resistant Yorkshire wool, ballistic nylon and Belgian leather. The limitededition Stealth Series is fabricated using reclaimed military-issue Jordanian Airforce and Danish M84 camouflage.

JUNGHANS WATCHES Already stocked on the likes of premium e-tailer MR PORTER, Junghans Watches is a German brand which has been designing and producing watches for over 150 years. Split into four sub-lines – Erhard Junghans, Junghans Meister, Junghans Max Bill and Performance – the collection features a style for every occasion. As multifaceted as the brand’s portfolio is, however, a single standard applies; to bring together traditional craftsmanship with state-of-the-art technology and innovative design.

IL BUSSETTO Italian luxury accessory brand Il Bussetto will showcase its full offer at the January edition of Top Drawer. Founded in 2004 by Mauro Gobbi, the brand incorporates a unique and special Tuscan leather craft technique, where each item is moulded on wooden modes and therefore devoid of any seams. The collection comprises wallets, bags, cigarette holders, cigar cases, business card holders, tobacco pouches and sunglasses cases.

S/S 18

14â&#x20AC;&#x201D;16 JANUARY 2018 | OLYMPIA LONDON

CREATE AN IRRESISTIBLY UNIQUE EDIT FOR YOUR CUSTOMERS FROM OUR CURATED SELECTION OF 1,500 DESIGN-LED BRANDS

PRODUCT CREDITS (Clockwise from top) JUNGHAN WATCHES / BOTH BARRELS / IL BUSSETTO / DOUBLE 00

DEFINE YOUR STORY

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PANORAMA BERLIN From 16-18 January, Panorama Berlin will present a impressive roster of mainstream brands to a mix of both domestic and international buyers. We find out more about the upcoming exhibition. — Taking place across 45,000 sq mt of exhibition space and under the new theme – Shaping Identities – the next edition of trade exhibition Panorama Berlin is set to welcome over 800 exhibitors in 11 halls. The a/w 18 show will see the unveiling of a brand-new hall structure, designed to make it easier for visitors to navigate, including new areas specifically for womenswear and menswear. With products that seamlessly transition from casual to formal, from classic to progressive, each section will reflect the purchasing behaviour of modern shoppers. Speaking of the show’s new theme, Jörg Wichmann, CEO of Panorama Berlin, explains; “After 10 successful seasons, we decided to take the concept we’ve used so far and revise it in a way that makes sense. ‘Shaping Identities’ describes our mission and is also what we are asking brands to do; sharpen your profile and present your brands with a strong message. Thanks to a new hall structure, expanded lifestyle areas and our brand-new community areas, Panorama Berlin remains the best platform for this,” he adds. In regards to layout, Hall 1 presents exclusively womenswear in GRACE, continuing into Hall 3 with younger, more extroverted

womenswear in STYLE HUB. After this, Hall 5 focuses on ACCESSORIES. GENTS (Hall 2) and MODERNIST (Hall 4) offer clothing that ranges from classic menswear to progressive upper casual and contemporary unisex collections. This is followed by Hall 6, dedicated to footwear in SOLED. Once again specialising in denim and streetwear, NOVA (Hall 9) serves as a connecting point to Selvedge Run, the denim trade exhibition which has moved into Marshall House, located within the ExpoCenter City. In addition, the concept of lifestyle areas – in other words, fashion with integrated lifestyle products – which was already successfully implemented in the NOVA area, will now be introduced into the main halls. Various halls will be set up like department stores, with products and gadgets selected for the respective target ground, strengthening the segment and adding new sources of inspiration. Moreover, these lifestyle areas will feature visually impressive community areas where visitors are invited to network. Panorama Berlin takes place on 16-18 January 2018 at ExpoCenter City, South Entrance/Jafféstraße, 14055 Berlin.

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W W W.PANORAMA-BERLIN.COM

shaping identities

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THE PREMIUM GROUP LINE-UP The Premium Group – parent company of Berlin-based tradeshows SEEK, Bright, Premium, Show & Order and #FashionTech Berlin – is one of the leading exhibition organisers in the international buying schedule, presenting 3,000 brands over an area of 50,000 m2. Here’s what to expect from the German capital this season. —

www.premiumexhibitions.com

PREMIUM Date: 16-18 January 2018 Location: Station, Berlin Brands Include: C.P Company, Esemplare, Joe’s Jeans, Elvine, Scotch & Soda, Tiger of Sweden, G.H. Bass, Velvet by Graham & Spencer — Since 2003, Premium has been at the forefront of the global trade show scene and a/w 18 is no different. With over 1,000 brands and 1,800 collections, including new signings making up 30 per cent of this total, Premium provides the industry with a handpicked selection of some of the most sought-after international collections. The show continues to develop its B2B services, adapting to the everchanging needs of the industry, guaranteeing an efficient ordering process and work environment. Key focuses for the exhibition this season are statement designs and attention-drawing collections, outerwear and showcasing how to skilfully mix and match athleisure into your store’s mix with daily fashion shows through the three-day event. The show will feature 13 segments over a 28,000 m2 space, including menswear, sportswear, outdoors, gadgets, homewares, fragrance, stationery and more. —

www.showandorder.de

SHOW & ORDER Date: 16-18 January 2018 Location: Kühlhaus Station, Berlin Brands Include: Anerkjendt, Toms, Pantone Socks, Jo Malone, Calvin Klein Hosiery, Bread & Boxers, DKNY Sleepwear, Fine Chocolate — Show & Order benefits from a brand-new concept this season. Inspired by a department store layout, the exhibition will present brands across six themed floors as part of an inspirational new design. Each floor is named after an international fashion metropolis – London, Paris, Berlin, Milan, Copenhagen and New York – with fashion brands presented over gallery-inspired floors. The new format goes hand in hand with the show’s new location at Kühlhaus on the Station-Berlin premises. Perfectly arranged to reflect the look and feel of a department store, the new location will also play host to experience corners offering lifestyle products and contemporary food concepts. At a time when retail is primarily a question of winning back shoppers, Show & Order inspires with an exhibition characterised by contemporary retail theatre. —

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www.seekexhibitions.com

SEEK Date: 16-18 January 2018 Location: Arena, Berlin Brands Include: Alpha Industries, Fila, Sandqvist, Armor Lux, Fred Perry, Helly Hansen, Palladium, Veja — Located at the iconic Arena Berlin, menswear trade show SEEK will present over 250 contemporary, street and sportswear brands. As the “voice of street culture”, the show will offer a selection of brands that perfectly translate today’s urbanwear trends. The portfolio is supplemented by a growing number of hand-picked womenswear and unisex collections, as well as a host of streetwear brands in Bright, SEEK’s sister trade fair, held within the Arena. Alongside the fashion, the show also presents a wide range of footwear and accessory ranges, gadgets, beauty products, stationery and homewares. Navigating through the show is made especially easy thanks to themed fashion segments. The colour-coded areas highlight the different areas as Classics & Icons for timeless products, Craftsmanship for heritage-inspired exhibitiors, Strong Zeitgeist for everyday heroes, Sports & Streetwear for signature brands and Green Force for conscious fashion and lifestyle products. The new season will also see the launch of SEEK Houses, three showroom-style concept spaces dedicated to giving buyers and press a more intimate environment to discover the latest collections from some of the show’s best brands and agencies. —

www.fashiontech.berlin

#FASHIONTECH BERLIN Date: 16 January 2018 Location: Kraftwerk, Berlin Speakers: For a full rundown of speakers and to register for the event, visit www.fashiontech.berlin — Want to know more about the latest developments at the interface of fashion and technology? #Fashiontech Berlin invites visitors to join the conversation as fashion experts, industry insiders, start-ups and designers discuss the opportunities of technology in fashion. Now in its fourth year, the successful conference will relocate from the Kuhlhaus to Kraftwerk Berlin. This season will also see the Premium Group bring fellow trade show Messe Frankfurt on board as part of a new partnership which will bring sustainability into the spotlight. Drawing upon the expertise of Messe Frankfurt’s FashionSustain programme, visitors will have the opportunity to discuss the future of textiles in the current climate. The #FashionTech conference, meanwhile, will focus on the topics of e-commerce and digital marketing and communications. —

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JACKET REQUIRED The a/w 18 edition of contemporary London trade show Jacket Required will welcome a number of key events, collaborations and new signings. We discover more about the forthcoming show. —

JACKET REQUIRED PARTNERS WITH TROUVA Premium London tradeshow Jacket Required will partner with online platform Trouva for its January 2018 edition. Trouva, the marketplace for independent stores, currently brings together more than 350 selected boutiques across 119 towns and cities online. The platform sources unique fashion and lifestyle goods from its network of shops, enabling customers to shop and discover over 80,000 design-led products at the click of a button. Within an industry ever-competing with leading multiples and e-commerce giants, the Trouva platform champions independent retail by building an online platform and offering supporting infrastructure for bricks and mortar stores. Trouva empowers its boutiques – helping shop owners remain focused on the instore experience and product selection, while it provides the tools to support an online campaign, including click-and-collect, one-hour delivery windows and worldwide shipping. This allows retail’s shift online to work in favour of smaller stores, rather than against them. “Speaking with Trouva, it was immediately evident that we share many of the same qualities in terms of stores and labels that we work with, and there is the opportunity to explore further how we can support our brands and buyers together,” says Mark Batista, founder of Jacket Required. “Jacket Required hosts 300 selected collections under one roof, allowing retailers to catch up with existing suppliers and source new products in one place during the international buying calendar. And Trouva embraces this same model for the consumer. Trouva increases the visibility of smaller stores and in turn boosts sales, with the idea that you can shop your perfect independent high street online, putting together a shopping bag from selected stores across the country. “So in one transaction, you can pick up a Barbour jacket from Number Six, East London; a Sandqvist wallet from Our Daily Edit, Brighton; a Fjällräven Kanken from No59, Wiltshire; and a pair of Lee 101 jeans from Frontiers, Edingburgh,” he adds. Having just celebrated its second birthday, Trouva now looks to welcome further selected boutiques into its community, and will team up with Jacket Required to present the platform to key fashion retailers at the upcoming autumn/ winter edition. Taking place at London’s Old Truman Brewery on 24-25 January 2018, Jacket Required and Trouva invite you to stop by the dedicated lounge for buyers, brands and press, and hear more about the platform, how you can be involved and talk about becoming a Trouva store. —

SPRAYWAY Established in 1974, Sprayway is a Manchesterbased brand making its debut at Jacket Required this season. For a/w 18, the brand continues to build on the success of its core Hillwalking/Outdoor range of clothing with the introduction of two new collections. Sprayway has taken its technical outdoor knowledge and applied it to a more stylish everyday aesthetic, creating the Everyday Outdoor Collection. The second is Vanta – a small capsule collection of three technical products constructed from specially sourced matt black fabrics. —

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RE.SUSTAIN Re.Sustain is a collection of classic wardrobe essentials supported sustainably. The a/w 18 collection consists of both men’s and womenswear styles across T-shirts, sweatshirts and punctuated with structured outerwear in the form of trousers, jackets and tunics in dark and off-white denim. Each item is finished with unexpected detailing through loopback-exposed sweats, oversized pockets and double-stitched hems. — p

FJÄLLRÄVEN The start of 2018 marks 50 years since Fjällräven first introduced its iconic Greenland jacket. To celebrate this anniversary of the jacket, which became a pivotal piece, the brand will introduce a new Greenland collection. The Greenland jacket, for example, is now made of sustainable G-1000 Eco, a blend of recycled polyester and organic cotton. The Greenland Half Century jacket, meanwhile, features taped seams to ensure a smooth silhouette, finished with premium features, including bonded pockets and metal cuff and hood adjustors. —

GRENSON

BELLEROSE

After 150 years of shoemaking, iconic footwear label Grenson has announced the launch of its first ever sneaker collection. The first model in the collection is the Sneaker 1, based on a super clean 70s tennis shoe and made from hand-painted calf, smooth white calf and luxury calf suede with an Italian white rubber sole. —

Bellerose is a premium clothing company founded in 1989 in Belgium. Offering both womenswear and menswear, it will, however, showcase only its men’s offering at the next edition of Jacket Required. Comprising a series of wardrobe staples, shirts and chinos are at the core of the seasonal collection. With an emphasis on classic cuts and fabrics, the brand aims to cater for men looking for timeless quality, contemporary flair and resolute attention to detail. —

Redefining menswear

If you’re in menswear, you need to be at Moda Gent. Take a look ahead to some of the show’s edited highlights at the NEC this season on 18-20 February.

HOW TO WEAR IT The New Dandy Award-winning brands and retailers will take to the stage to show you how to create the key look of the season. Discover why this distinct, modern tailoring look is giving indies the edge, and get an insight into real-life contemporary retail with renowned store Master Debonair.

HOW TO PROMOTE IT Insta-famous NEED TO BOOST YOUR INSTAGRAM PRESENCE? Moda visitors will have the chance to get creative at our interactive photography workshops. Taking place throughout the three-day show, the workshops are a practical, hands-on guide to taking effective promotional images, with the help of a professional stylist and photographer. If you have ever been inspired to create Insta-friendly shoots but didn’t know where to start, it’s an unmissable introduction – no filter required.

FOR A FULL BRAND LIST AND TO REGISTER VISIT

HOW TO STYLE IT Grooming and lifestyle DO YOU WANT TO SELL A LIFESTYLE? For the first time ever, Moda Gent has teamed up with the Gentleman’s Grooming & Lifestyle Show to present a capsule selection of complementary collections right here at the show. Adopt a more holistic approach to menswear and get ahead for the new season with your most well-groomed offer to date.

HOW TO SELL IT Just for men Get merchandising-savvy and create interiors that inspire, with expert Stuart Geeky. As part of this season’s seminar programme, Geeky will deliver advice specifically for menswear stores. For online retailers, meanwhile, web specialist Remarkable will take to the stage with advice on designing a website that appeals directly to the male consumer.

DESTINATION Runway GET INSPIRED FOR A/W 18. Moda Gent’s three-day catwalk programme selects the key styles of the season to appear in an inspirational showcase. From casual tailoring to essential outerwear, the carefully curated edit is a must-see for menswear buyers ahead of autumn / winter. Gain a new perspective from the frow, and get an edge on the season as you head into a/w 18.

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LAST ORDERS WITH... STEPHAN HOHMANN Victoria Jackson speaks to Stephan Hohmann, CEO of premium nightwear brand Hanro, discussing his career to date, the rise of luxury loungewear and what’s next for the Swiss label. —

How long have you been with Hanro and what was your career path before this? I’ve been with Hanro for more than 11 years and have been working in the lingerie business for 21 years – before that I worked in fragrances, for Christian Dior Germany and Davidoff for 10 years. What does a typical week look like for you? I try to set priorities. First thing every day is checking overall sales figures of stores and markets. Product meetings are of great importance for me as the collection is key to success. We are continuously working on aligning product, marketing and sales activities. Very important, of course, is the sales market, which means that there is a lot of travelling involved for me – I strongly believe in personal contact with our customers, no matter if they are large or small.

DOB: 01/01/1959 Place of Birth: Berlin Lives now: Dornbirn, Austria Website: www.hanro.co.uk

With an extensive history dating back to 1884, what do you think the key to success has been for Hanro? Over the years, the brand has been true to its heritage and its values. The philosophy of our founders is still true – back then and now. We never did, nor will we ever, compromise on quality, and will always strive to be innovative. How is the brand currently performing on a global scale? We have seen seven years of continuous growth. The USA represents a third of our worldwide sales, well before Switzerland, Germany and the UK. International growth has been significant in the past decade – e.g. Japan is among our top 10 markets. How is the brand performing in the UK? Is the UK wholesale market a focus for you? The UK is a big focus for us. Harrods, in fact, is one of our best point of sales in the world. We have seen excellent growth in recent years, in particular with department stores as well as with online.

mainstream Oxford Street, is getting us the right customers and good traffic. What factors do you think have driven the growth in luxury nightwear over the last decade? The change of style away from classic nightwear to modern loungewear looks drew more customers back to sleepwear. Moreover, a qualityconscious customer is becoming more and more important; he is buying less, but the best.

How many stockists do you have in the UK? About 110 relevant doors, mainly focused within the Greater London area.

Innovation is at the heart of Hanro – what can we expect for the new season? Our fantastic new Living collection, with versatile lounge pieces that may be replenished for the trade as part of our NOS Basic assortment offering.

How is the South Molton Street store performing? Why that location? In 2013 we opened our standalone London boutique in South Molton Street, and ever since we are particularly satisfied with it. Its location, between the luxurious Bond Street and the

Are there any standout pieces of the menswear collection which you’d predict to be best-sellers? The Basil mix and match collection for s/s 18 and our great Living T-shirts – made of our signature mercerized cotton fabric – are both set to create loyal customer bases.

QUICK-FIRE QUESTIONS: Early riser or night owl? Early riser – even when there are late nights. Favourite book? A recent one: Christoph Ransmeyr’s Cox (about Alister [real name James] Cox, an English watchmaker constructing a perpetual clock for the emperor of China in the 18th century). Best piece of advice received in business? Try to see the virtues in others and the weaknesses in yourself. Ultimate travel destination? Three months travelling through Japan.

THE CONFERENCE ON THE FUTURE OF FASHION

16 JANUARY KRAFTWERK BERLIN KÖPENICKER STR. 70 – 10179 BERLIN