WWB Magazine

JULY 2012 — ISSUE 218 WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk

£6.95

— FUEL INJECTION Diesel’s ambitious plans for womenswear —

— VILLAGE BICYCLE WWB takes a tour around the quirky London indie —

— SPRING/SUMMER 2013 Your guide to the trends, the brands and the new launches —

— ACCESS ALL AREAS How Gaby’s is growing market share with its new label —

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CONTENTS —

REGULARS

FEATURES

FASHION

09 EDITOR’S COMMENT — 10 NEWS — 14 BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear — 18 TALKING POINT The issues that matter to you — 88 RETAIL FORUM The latest news from the industry — 91 ADVICE Experts answer your questions — 94 THE FINAL WORD Who or what makes you cry?

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22 Q&A With Gaby’s founder Gaby Novelli — 36 DIESEL POWER How Diesel is planning to double its womenswear offer — 78 SPOTLIGHT ON...

The fashion brands upping their game for s/s 13 — 80 LIKE A KID IN A SWEET SHOP Behind the scenes at London indie Village Bicycle — 82 SCOOP INTERNATIONAL The latest signings to this month’s show — 84 FIRST GLANCE AT MODA A sneak peak at next month’s event — FRONT COVER BLOUSE, SUGARHILL BOUTIQUE JEANS, VERO MODA —

28 STYLE FILE — 30 10 OF THE BEST Holiday items — 33 CHARM OFFENSIVE Delicate necklaces — 34 FASHION RADAR — 43 SPRING/SUMMER 2013 Our guide to the season — 44 COLLECTION NEWS — 52 PAISLEY PRINTS AND COLOUR BLOCKING Trendstop’s Jaana Jatyri on the key catwalk trends for s/s 13 — 55 BRAND PREVIEW — 66 I’M YOUR CANDY GIRL The key looks in young fashion —

09 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012 Editor Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com — Contributors Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Kirkpatrick laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — Online editor Suzanna Bain suzanna@ras-publishing.com — Fashion writer Natalie Dawson natalie@ras-publishing.com — Editorial assistant Carey Whitwam carey.whitwam@ite-exhibitions.com — Sub editor Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — Design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — Senior advertising sales manager Mina Parmar mina@ras-publishing.com — Subscriptions Louise Adu louise@ras-publishing.com — Production director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — Commercial director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com — Reprographics/printing ImageData Group 01482 652323 — WWB is published 11 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 — Copyright © 2012 WWB Magazine Limited.

All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

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RAS Publishing is an ITE Group PLC company A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication WWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include MWB, Footwear & Fashion Extras and CWB.

COMMENT —

LAST MONTH I WROTE ABOUT “THE COMEBACK” OF THE INDEPENDENT, AND MANY OF YOU SEEM TO BE AGREEING WITH THE SENTIMENT.

I’ve had some lovely emails from readers supporting the theory that 2012 will be the year of the independent, all sharing the view that we don’t talk enough about the success stories that our industry, and retail in general, has to offer.

This includes the brave and entrepreneurial stores that have recently opened, and continue to launch, up and down the country.

So over the next few issues, we will continue to highlight those gorgeous new boutiques that are bringing new life and inspiration to the sector, such as beautifully eccentric and quirky London indie Village Bicycle (page 80) which, in just a year, has managed to create a point of difference and become a popular destination store in what is a competitive marketplace.

To stay on this topic, this month also celebrates independents of all sizes and guises when Independents’ Day and Independent Retailer Month take place. I hope many of you are joining in the efforts and the buzz surrounding independent retail, and I hope it will be a successful and rewarding experience.

Of course, any retailers’ point of difference is very much determined by their product offer so, when s/s 13 kicks off with the shows – at the time of going to press, the WWB team was preparing for the first set including Who’s Next, Bread & Butter Berlin and Scoop International – for most buyers it will

be about seeking out product that can deliver on USP and wow-factor. This issue is packed with an overview of the key trends, brands, new launches and labels to watch for the coming season, and will hopefully be a useful tool for your buying trips.

Of course, this month also sees the start of the Olympics and, whether you are a London 2012 enthusiast or sick to death of hearing and reading about it, it is still expected to boost consumer appetite, which should hopefully have a trickle-down effect on our industry as a whole.

As always, don’t forget to share your views and opinions by emailing, or tweeting @wwbmagazine.

Isabella Griffiths, editor

WHERE FASHION COMES TOGETHER 12-14 August 2012 NEC Birmingham moda-uk.co.uk

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NEWS —

MIXED REACTION TO PORTAS PILOTS Following the announcement of the 12 Portas Pilot towns, opinion within communities is divided as to how the scheme will benefit local businesses.

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Stockport is one of the 12 Portas Pilot towns

Retailer opinions in the 12 towns, which have been selected as Portas Pilots by local government minister Grant Shapps, are divided over whether the initiative will provide significant and lasting changes in their towns.

In the pilot scheme, which is designed to revive high streets across the nation, the 12 town centres will be the first to test out the measures put forward by controversial retail guru Mary Portas, helped by a percentage of the £1.2m worth of funds injected into the scheme by the government.

Communities in the selected town centres, however, have displayed a mixed reaction to the news, with some retailers expressing an element of disdain with regards to the plans put forward by Portas.

“I don’t want to be negative but, as I understand it, Mary Portas’ ideas will have very little effect,” says Anthony Bull, director at footwear independent Zucchi Shoes in Croydon, one of the 12 Pilot towns. “Croydon is an expensive place to be and, since the riots last year, it’s been very tough and the town has not recovered. We have had a one per cent rate surcharged imposed upon us as part of a business improvement district scheme to provide extra police security, street cleaning and so on, but it has not improved business. If Mary Portas could reduce rents and rates and put money back into

customers’ pockets to spend, it might work, but she can’t. Planting a few extra plants and tarting up some empty shops simply won’t have a long-term effect.”

Another retailer, who preferred to remain anonymous, says, “The money involved will simply be nowhere near enough, and I can’t help thinking that we will end up with a plaque commemorating our status as a Pilot town and not much more.”

However, retailers including Jen McKenna, owner of Moo Boutique in Stockport, Cheshire, feel it has put the spotlight on retailers in general and will therefore have a positive effect. “I think this is a great initiative for retail as a whole. Anything that helps improve an area as a shopping district is good, and independents in the town could really benefit if the money is used correctly,” she says, but adds a word of caution: “A lot depends on how and where the money is spent. The problem is that £100k isn’t a huge amount; when you start talking about buildings and renovating, it begins to feel like a drop in the ocean.

“It will be interesting to find out what Stockport’s plans are and to see if they have really thought how they will get the best return for this injection of cash,” McKenna continues.

“Rents and rates are a huge problem in Stockport, some are higher than units in Covent

“I think it’s a great initiative for retail as a whole.

Anything that helps improve an area as a shopping district is good, and independents in the town could really benefit if the money is used correctly.”

Garden. Maybe an effort to open talks with the landlords would help bring more ‘sexy’ companies to the town thus increasing footfall.”

The 12 winning Portas Pilot towns are Bedford, Croydon, Dartford, Bedminster, Liskeard, Market Rasen, Margate, Nelson, Stockport, Newbiggin-by-the-Sea, Stockton-on-Tees and Wolverhampton.

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NEWS —

MEMBERS-ONLY FASHION AGENCY LAUNCHES Berthram’s, a members-only high-end fashion agency, has opened its doors for s/s 13.

The agency was founded by Christina Poulsen, who has a long track record working for leading fashion agencies in London, and represents Italian label 5 Preview, as well as Danish brands Aiayu, Anne Sofie Madsen, Stine Goya (pictured) and Maria Black.

Berthram’s offers a buying website as well as boutique showroom. Buyers from across premium and luxury retailers/e-tailers can view the full collections online, create draft orders for individual brands and order in the showroom or online. Registration is required in order to qualify for a limited number of memberships, with long-term distribution for the brands the aim.

“I wanted to create a more innovative sales channel that respects the talents and visions of the next generation designers and buyers in a new world,” says Poulsen.

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COMMUNITY LAUNCH FOR MODA Trade fashion exhibition Moda has introduced a new interactive feature with the launch of its online community.

Coupled with the announcement of the show’s seminar programme for its August edition, drawing together some of the trade’s leading experts, the development aims to bring the industry together beyond the exhibition aisles.

Moda Community, which can be found at moda-uk.co.uk/community, enables exhibitors, visitors, press, speakers, visitors and organisers to interact with each other directly, as well as creating a personal profile for themselves. The website also features a diary and appointment booking system that can be used ahead of the event, as well as exclusive content supplied by seminar speakers.

This season sees Clare Rayner return to Moda, following her successful debut at last season’s show. Also appearing at the event is Warren Knight, founder of Gloople, who will help retailers understand the benefits of using Google and social networks. Meanwhile, Ray Buckler and Nick Pratt of Sitemakers will be on hand to discuss smartphones and tablets, and how to make this technology work best for retail businesses.

For full details of this season’s seminar programme or to register for the show, taking place on 12-14 August at Birmingham’s NEC, visit moda-uk.co.uk.

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STILLS TO LAUNCH IN HARVEY NICHOLS Dutch-owned premium womenswear brand Stills is to open a concession in Harvey Nichols Knightsbridge in September. The brand will launch in the prestigious store with its a/w 12 collection, and it is hoped that the retail space will help raise the profile of the brand in the UK. — DIAMOND JUBILEE SPARKS SURGE IN ONLINE SALES The latest IMRG Capgemini e-retail sales index figures have revealed that British shoppers spent an estimated £6bn online in May, equating to 13 per cent growth on the same time last year. This performance marks a return to growth in line with the last 12 months, and matches the 13 per cent growth estimated for the full year.

The upsurge is attributed to the improved weather during May and the Jubilee weekend last month.

— ALMOST 40 PER CENT OF REJECTED LOAN APPLICATIONS OVERTURNED A report by Professor Russel Griggs on behalf of the British Bankers Association (BBA) has shown that the banks’ new appeals process has overturned 39.5 per cent of rejected lending decisions in its first year of operation. The process, which is available to businesses with a group turnover of up to £25m, was launched in April 2011 as an initiative of the BBA’s Banking Taskforce initiatives. According to the report, there have been 2,177 appeals, and almost 40 per cent of these have seen business owners being given the growth funding they required.

— CARE CHALLENGE RAISES £31,000 FOR POVERTY The seventh Prima Solutions Adventure Challenge, supported by WWB and sister title MWB, raised £31,000 for poverty relief charity Care International. Teams from the likes of Timberland, Hugo Boss, Rampant Sporting and Supergroup took part, with the latter scooping the award for top fundraiser, having brought in over £10,000, while Timberland has raised over £67,000 for Care since the challenge was launched in 2008 and was presented with an honorary award.

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NEWS —

TURNOVER PULLS OUT OF UK MARKET Dutch fashion house Veldhoven Group has decided to pull out its Turnover brand from the UK market and focus on its European distribution instead.

Although the label has experienced strong growth in its home market as well as Belgium and Germany, it did not achieve the same level of success in the highly competitive UK market.

Existing UK customers can still buy the brand at Bread & Butter Berlin, where the label will have a presence. In a statement, the company said that, in a climate “where understandably retailers are risk averse, bringing an understated, contemporary and distinctly European brand to the UK has proved challenging” and had been considered too high a risk for UK retailers. The company did not rule out a return of the brand to the UK in the future.

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H&M COLLABORATES WITH MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA French fashion house Maison Martin Margiela is the latest name to collaborate with Swedish high-street group H&M. The exclusive partnership is thought to include womenswear, menswear and accessories, and will launch on 15 November across H&M stores and online.

“Maison Martin Margiela is one of the most important and influential fashion houses of the past three decades,” says Margareta van den Bosch, creative advisor at H&M. “I am so excited about this collaboration, which will give fashion lovers around the world the chance to wear special pieces by Maison Martin Margiela.”

This partnership will be a great and memorable fashion moment,” she continues.

“We are very happy to present Maison Martin Margiela pieces with H&M, offering a new interpretation of our vision.

“The democracy of our fashion has always been at the centre of our creativity, and the collaboration with H&M allows us to push this instinct further. We will bring together the contrasting universes of the two houses in ways that will surprise all.”

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BRAND ALLEY LAUNCHES OUTLET Leading private sales e-tailer BrandAlley.co.uk has launched a new discount outlet to run alongside its private sales. The launch will allow Brand Alley to increase its offering by trialling and expanding new product areas such as gifting, sporting equipment, wine and books. The e-tailer has been testing the Outlet for the past two months, and has seen an increase in basket size and browsing time. The company is expecting the Outlet to account for around 20 per cent of its sales by the end of the year.

— HIGH-STREET SALES GROW AND BUSINESS SENTIMENT IMPROVES Retail sales volumes rose strongly in May compared to last year, with attitudes towards the business situation also having improved, the latest CBI Distributive Trade Survey reveals. Sales, however, were still reported to be below average for the time of the year.

According to the findings, 43 per cent of retailers reported an increase in their volume of sales during May compared to a year ago, and 23 per cent said they had seen a fall. The resulting rounded balance of plus 21 per cent was broadly in line with expectations.

Sentiment regarding the business situation for the next three months has also turned positive for the first time since November 2011.

— SUPERGA LAUNCHES HOLLAND RANGE Italian footwear label Superga celebrated the launch of its Henry Holland collection last month with a guest appearance by the designer at the brand’s standalone Covent Garden store. Superga per House of Holland, which makes its debut for s/s 12, continues the prints and colour schemes that have become the hallmarks of the British designer’s style, while staying true to the sneaker signatures of the Superga label, which was established in Italy over 100 years ago.

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NEWS —

ONLINE CLOTHING RETURNS COST RETAILERS MILLIONS

BFC AWARDS NEWGEN SPONSORSHIPS FOR S/S 13

Retailers are spending millions on clothing returns, but multi-channelling could help, new research suggests. Although consumers are bearing the cost of returning 13.6 million items, totalling £29.24m, the majority is being paid for by retailers – at a cost of £61.52m.

The British Fashion Council (BFC) has revealed the 13 designers to receive this year’s BFC Newgen sponsorship and showcase their collections at London Fashion Week in September.

The high figures, which total £90.76m, are partly due to an increase in fashion orders placed remotely, experts say.

“Returns are a particular problem in fashion, where consumers are now used to ordering multiple items in a range of sizes, colours or cuts in the knowledge they can easily send them back,” says Neil Saunders of Conlumino, which conducted the research for Webloyalty. “While many retailers do build in some cost of returns, there is the danger that, as remote channels continue to grow, the cost of servicing the consumer also grows.

“This situation would inevitably erode profitability,” he continues. “The ideal situation for retailers is to minimise the volumes of returns while growing sales. To do this, they may need to revisit how the returns process fits into their multichannel strategy.”

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Catwalk sponsorship goes to Michael van der Ham, JW Anderson and Simone Rocha, while presentation sponsorship has been awarded to Christopher Raeburn, JJS Lee, Lucas Nascimento, Marques Almeida, Nasir Mazhar and Sister

by Sibling. Palmer//Harding, Huishan Zhang, Lim Cooper and Sophia Webster, meanwhile, received Exhibition sponsorship.

The designers will feature in the Newgen space at The Exhibition at London Fashion Week.

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J CREW LAUNCHES “HELLO, WORLD” ONLINE CAMPAIGN J Crew has launched a new addition to its online experience to further engage with international customers.

Those logging onto the American brand’s website can now see how fashion “tastemakers” wear J Crew clothing as they travel the globe, making each item distinctly their own.

Hello, World is photographed, filmed and narrated by award-winning fashion photographers and bloggers Garance Doré and Scott Schuman. The first of the two-part feature includes Hilary Tsui, style blogger and owner of Hong Kong boutique Liger, and TK Mak, founder of Hong Kong pop culture magazine Milk.

Also featured are photographer and fashion blogger Berta Bernad (Madrid) and founder of online interview magazine The Talks Sven Schumann (Berlin), as well as Popeye magazine’s editor-in-chief Takahiro Kinoshita (Tokyo). J Crew’s second Hello, World instalment this month will unveil the photo diaries and video portraits of five additional stylish influencers from Paris, Milan, London and Sydney.

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ROXY AND QUIKSILVER SIGN UP FOR FLIP Flip, the UK’s newest trade show for urban, street and action sports lifestyle brands, has added Quiksilver and Roxy to its August line-up.

They will exhibit alongside the likes of surf and snow sports inspired label Hoodlamb and organic bag brand Sativa. Timezone and Puma are other leading lifestyle labels showing at Flip, which is launching to answer calls from across the industry for a dedicated national show. Other brands presenting their s/s 13 collections at the event include Animal, Amazonas and Gumbies.

Flip takes place alongside Moda at the NEC Birmingham on 12-14 August.

— RETAILERS FALL PREY TO VIOLENCE A recent survey by the British Retail Consortium has found that at least 35,000 retail staff have suffered physical or verbal attacks over the past year, while retail robberies have risen by 20 per cent in direct comparison with the previous year. The organisation is now working with Union of Shop, Distributive and Allied Workers to promote best practice advice for personal safety in work through its Freedom from Fear campaign.

— LACOSTE OPENS FLAGSHIP Lacoste opened a new flagship store on London’s Brompton Road last month. The shop is the company’s largest mono-brand store in the world, offering mainline collections for both women and men, its new contemporary Live range, footwear, childrenswear, leather goods and more, as well as an exclusive first launch of home textiles. The store occupies three floors with 600 sq m of shopping space.

— WINDOW SHOPPING BECOMES WINDOWS SHOPPING Online shopping has reached a new high for clothing purchases, as nearly nine out of 10 UK consumers are now shopping for clothes on the internet. New research by Cotton Council International reveals that 44 per cent of Brits go online at least once a month or more to buy clothes, with a committed three per cent doing this daily. This is second only to groceries, which stands at 50 per cent.

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PEOPLE —

BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear —

ESPRIT HOSTS OPENING BASH

SCOTTISH FASHION AWARDS HONOUR TALENT

THE CHIC WAY TO KNIT — Eco fashion brand Makepiece is offering “sheep to chic” knitting courses at its headquarters in Todmorden, West Yorkshire – a new slant on DIY chic.

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Scotland’s top fashion, design and textile talent was honoured at the seventh edition of the Scottish Fashion Awards last month. Christopher Kane picked up the most prestigious accolade for Scottish Fashion Designer of the Year, while Mulberry bagged the prize for International Designer of the Year for use of a Scottish fabric.

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UEL STUDENT IS “BEST OF BRITISH”

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A new book, Britain Creates: Fashion and Art Collusion, has been launched by the BFC/ Bazaar Fashion Arts Foundation to showcase the incredible talent the industry has to offer.

The box set includes two books, nine posters of artwork and an audio track CD by British fashion designers and artists.

German lifestyle brand Esprit hosted a star-studded bash when it reopened its Regent Street flagship last month. Guests included singer Natasha Bedingfield, who also performed on the night, as well as reality TV star Lydia Bright, singer Dionne Broomfield, presenter Donna Air and model and presenter Jade Parfitt. The redesign of the store is part of Esprit’s restructuring programme, which is aimed at strengthening the brand.

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UKFT Rise brings together young talent Industry body the UK Fashion and Textile Association (UKFT) recently launched UKFT Rise, a new network for the next generation rising up in the fashion and textile industry.

The scheme offers those with ambition and drive working in the industry a platform to regularly meet and exchange experiences, as well as gain knowledge from key experts across the sector. Asos founder Nick Robertson (pictured 3rd from left) was the first guest speaker at the inaugural meeting last month.

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University of East London (UEL) second-year student Susanna Yi won the Best of British contest at Graduate Fashion Week last month. The competition was created to celebrate the special year of 2012, and was open to second-year students from across UK universities. Yi, 23, (pictured below centre at the awards ceremony with TV host Caroline Flack, left, and Fiona Lambert, brand director for George at Asda) was inspired by the contrast between the historic old dock buildings in the East End and the contemporary feel of Canary Wharf.

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PROMOTION —

A FRESH SEASON OF INSPIRATION AT THE BIGGEST EVENT ON THE UK FASHION CALENDAR MODA 12-14 AUGUST 2012, NEC BIRMINGHAM

The August edition of Moda will welcome an influx of new names taking part in the event for the first time, making this season the most inspirational show yet and an essential visit for every womenswear retailer.

NEW LABELS TO DISCOVER AT MODA WOMAN A host of new names from the UK and beyond join the unbeatable line-up at Moda this season, including French label La Naturelle, which will showcase its collection made entirely from eco-friendly fabrics. Meanwhile, German brand Bianca debuts its innovative and contemporary womenswear designs featuring bold colour schemes alongside fellow Moda debuts Inside-Out, Creenstone and Simclan.

The August show will also feature the largest selection of occasion, prom and eveningwear collections from new labels including Dress Code, Nati Jimenez, and Irresistable.

GET INTIMATE WITH THE INDUSTRY’S HOTTEST NAMES Moda Lingerie & Swimwear, sponsored by Lycra XtraLite, will host the latest collections from the industry’s leading names including Gossard, Empreinte, Fantasie, Freya, Panache and Chantelle. This being August, Moda will also be the venue for the largest selection of swimwear in the UK, with Australian swimwear brands Jantzen and Seafolly and UK favourite Seaspray showcasing their latest collections. Meanwhile, Nikki Cooke makes its debut in Moda Rouge alongside newcomers Vedette Shapewear, Touche Lingerie, Cherry Blushes and Carizzi and some of the most directional and niche labels including returning favourites Playful Promises, Miss Mandalay and Mimi Holliday.

James Lakeland

Caractère

MODA WHITE Making their Moda debut at Moda White this season are French brand Thalassa, which stays true to its inspiration from the sea and nature with a marine-inspired collection, and Italian label Caractère, whose chic creations in exquisite fabrics have made it popular with the best independent and department stores worldwide. Moda White is also the place to find established names such as James Lakeland, Eva Tralala and Elisa Cavaletti.

Touche Lingerie

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PROMOTION —

MODA ACCESSORIES

MODA FOOTWEAR

This season’s show features an influx of new names including on-trend jewellery from Sence Copenhagen, bright and bold designs by London Fashion Bags, eel skin handbags by Makki, scarves and jewellery by Studio 19 and the accessories collection from iconic British label Red or Dead. From quirky styles to classic looks, there is something for every accessories buyer this August.

The UK’s largest and busiest footwear exhibition returns with new names including Spanish brand Panama Jack and Swiss label Mistral, which will showcase three distinctive footwear lines for s/s 13.

Also adding to the line-up of newcomers is Israeli label CoupleOf and young fashion and outdoor lifestyle brand Brakeburn, who will be joining returning favourites including Mustang, Peter Kaiser, Fly London and Rockport.

Sence Copenhagen

Mustang

WANT TO KEEP PACE WITH RETAIL’S DIGITAL REVOLUTION? DON’T MISS MODA’S FREE SEMINARS SMARTPHONES AND TABLETS: HOW TO USE YOUR NEW SHOP WINDOW EFFECTIVELY RAY BUCKLER, HEAD OF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT AND NICK PRATT, MD OF SITEMAKERS The consumers’ new shopping accessory is now a smartphone or tablet. This seminar is relevant for retailers who want to learn how to keep pace with the revolution of the internet, and how they can use the latest mobile technology to interact and engage with customers.

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SPOTLIGHT ON STYLE

HOW TO USE GOOGLE AND SOCIAL MEDIA TO INCREASE YOUR ONLINE SALES

Three dedicated catwalk shows highlighting s/s 13’s hottest trends take place across womenswear, lingerie & swimwear, occasion and eveningwear throughout the three-day event.

WARREN KNIGHT, FOUNDER, GLOOPLE Warren Knight of Gloople, the social sharing e-commerce platform, will help retailers understand the benefits of using Google and different social networks such as Twitter, Facebook, Google+, YouTube and LinkedIn. Social media is here to stay, and this topic will help visitors integrate social media into their retail business.

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Other topics on this season’s programme include: • How to build an exceptional sales and customer service plan Dennis Reid, chairman, Retail Performance Specialists (RPS) • How to develop an upward cycle of customer engagement Clare Rayner, The Retail Champion • How to bring the shop floor to life with retail theatre Kate Hardcastle, founding partner of Insight with Passion (IWP)

To register for your complimentary ticket to the show visit moda-uk.co.uk

Fashion’s essential meeting point With Sunday 12 August marking the opening of the UK’s biggest fashion event and the closing of the Olympics, Moda will be celebrating Britain’s most momentous summer season with a party not to be missed! Visitors and exhibitors are invited to join the celebrations from the close of the show at 6pm.

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OPINION —

TALKING POINT Key industry players give their views on the issues affecting womenswear —

CELEBRATE EVERYTHING THAT’S FANTASTIC ABOUT BRITAIN

IN-STORE SHOWCASE FOR STUDENTS WORKS BOTH WAYS

2012 is Britain’s year; the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee, the Olympics and the atmosphere around the European Championships has created a buzz and energy among consumers, which every retailer can harness.

In 2012, advertising your company in the right way is more important than ever. With the majority of customers tightening their purses, it will take more than promises to get them to open their hearts and wallets.

The British celebrations have shone a light on British brands and retailers, driving international footfall in-store and excitement around the heritage of our brands. We have always been proud of our home-grown designers and the international success of quintessentially British labels such as Anya Hindmarch, Paul Smith, Temperley London, Smythson, Burberry and Barbour, who have made the British fashion industry an exciting and inspirational place to be.

It’s not all about presenting a collection of products featuring Union Jack prints and crowns. In fact, the celebrations and activities in this year’s calendar have built a huge appetite for the collections of the British designers themselves, with international shoppers seeking out the quality and craftsmanship of our home-grown designers. The endless list of events and parties has seen a jump in sales of dresses, clutch bags and footwear, while the wet weather has propelled the sales of outerwear and boots over the last few weeks.

British designers have come into their own, with Burberry and Anya Hindmarch reporting phenomenal profits, particularly with overseas markets. And we have watched our London Fashion Week stars such as Christopher Kane, Claire Waight-Keller and Phoebe Philo bring their British flair to international houses Versus, Chloe and Celine.

At a time when retail has suffered through one of the toughest recessions of our time, the Diamond Jubilee and Olympic celebrations have brought, dare we say it, a buoyant, jubilant feeling among consumers and retailers alike. The media spotlight has brought an increased number of international shoppers to our stores to seek out the best of British fashion. This summer’s celebrations have given us good reason to celebrate everything that’s fantastic about being British.

The last few seasons have seen us look out for new British designers across all categories, and we have come across great new names. In fact, this season has presented some exciting success stories in new names such as Hermione De Paula, Goat and Phoebe Coleman. For a/w, we are introducing collections from British designers including Lucy Choi, Astley Clarke, Math, Terry De Havilland and Weston, which is going to lead to an exciting season ahead. In the words of old, Rule Britannia.

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These days, getting our message out to the public has to involve them and intrigue them. Potential customers want to see companies doing their bit for the greater good of the public. They will make judgements based on these activities, about whether they will be taken good care of as a customer. The public want to see a buzz about your company, that it is popular, that your opinions and products are reliable and on trend.

At Baska, we have always tried to provide a stage for creativity, periodically hosting private viewings of artists’ work, ranging from sculptors to painters, often with a fashion theme, and sometimes more abstract themes. We know this creates an opportunity for the artists, their families and extended friend networks to enjoy the work and, at the same time, we can introduce our own environment, our clothes and our services to a new group of potential clients. This idea has afforded us some of our new customers today, indeed, good press surrounding the events, and will enable the chance of many more.

Our latest showcase of two selected Anglia Ruskin fashion graduates is one of our most exciting to date; it came about simply after meeting one of the university’s students who came into our shop. We discovered she was a designer preparing for her graduate show at the Cambridge School of Art. Naturally, we were curious. We asked if it would be possible to look at her and the other students’ designs. We viewed the work on their website and saw an opportunity to help advertise their show and ourselves by having their designs in our shop.

After a few phone calls to tutors and meeting the chosen students, we had arranged for a window display of their best creations that closed just before their catwalk show.

The event is the first we have done with a local university, but one of many we hope to host. It reaches out to students, their families, readers of our blog and the nationwide publications in which we have managed to secure articles. We feel we are providing a step into real-life exposure for the designers, and perhaps a place that future students could aim to fill in years to come. There is also the added benefit that the students can get feedback from us about the saleability, fabric and crafting of their garments, so it’s a useful experience for all parties involved.

—

Luisa de Paula, buying director, My-Wardrobe.com

Marta Wisniewska, women’s ready-to-wear buyer, Baska, Cambridge.

For a review of the student window display, see our Retail Forum on page 88.

8-10 JULY 2012 SAATCHI GALLERY, LONDON

scoop-international.com

20 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

PROMOTION —

present their enchanting spring/summer 2013 collection — Hello, my name is Michael Rand, I am the CEO of BITTE KAI RAND. Six months ago I wrote in this very magazine and invited you to share in our success and believe in what BITTE KAI RAND can do for your business in these challenging economic times. For A/W 12 the UK opened a staggering 32 new accounts and by all accounts our stand at the PURE exhibition at Olympia in London was totally overrun such was the overwhelming interest in the collection! I am so delighted, but not at all surprised. My wife Bitte is a unique designer and her collections always give the opportunity to create a personal style and this is key to our continued success. Never has this been more apparent than in the bewitching S/S 13 collection we are showing from July 2nd. We have put together a few images on this page as a ‘taster’ for the main collection. Trust in what BITTE KAI RAND is doing and run with us!

Selling dates: 2nd July - 7th September Pure - Stand Q76 Contact: Annabel Stearn Tel: 020 7636 7111 FOS Fashion Marketing Ltd, 4th Floor, Morley House, 320 Regent Street, London W1B 3BF

Manchester Showroom J S Levy Ltd Orega 3 Piccadilly Place Manchester M1 3BN Tel – 033 335 50965 Mob – 07831149428 email – info@jslevy.co.uk website – www.jslevy.co.uk

London Showroom J S Levy Ltd 5th Floor Liberty House 222 Regent Street London W1B 5TR Tel – 033 335 50965 Mob – 07831149428 email – info@jslevy.co.uk website – www.jslevy.co.uk

Ireland Showroom McGurk Fashion Group First Floor – Unit 7 M50 Business Park Ballymont Dublin 24 Tel – 00353 1429 5353 email – rorymcgurk@eircom.net

W W W.TUZZI.DE

22 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

INTERVIEW —

Q&A

Gaby Novelli

Having merged with Dents last year, Gaby’s Fashions has been embarking on an extensive growth and expansion drive across its accessories brand Gaby’s and handbag label Gabriella, with this season culminating in the launch of upmarket jewellery brand Sabbella. Isabella Griffiths gets the lowdown from founder and MD Gaby Novelli.

—

23 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

INTERVIEW —

Isabella Griffiths: You merged with Dewhurst Dent 18 months ago. How has the new business structure panned out so far?

Gaby Novelli: It’s been an eventful but exciting time. Since January 2011, Dewhurst Dent has owned the majority stake in Gaby’s Fashions, though I am still MD and a shareholder of the company. Our aim is to work together and grow the brands within the Gaby’s Fashions stable. I felt I had taken the company to a level where I needed help to continue its growth and reach its true potential. Last year, Dents opened its new state-of-the-art office and distribution centre in Warminster, Wiltshire, and by November the labels in our portfolio will be distributed from there. The plan is that brand development, design, production, sales and marketing will still be done by us in Cheshire. Our first project has been to trial a concession business for Gaby’s to see if it will work as a business model. It has been successful, and we are now focusing on growing that side of the business.

IG: Was it difficult to “hand over” elements of the brands that you have created?

GN: Yes, but it is in everyone’s interest to ensure the change in distribution goes as smoothly as possible, allowing for the future growth and development of the brands that would otherwise be impossible. The idea behind the merger was always that I maintain control of the brand direction, development and ranges, and we work together to build the company using Dents’ contacts and experience.

IG: Accessories brand Gaby’s is your most established label – what is its market position and what are your plans for the brand?

GN: Overall, we have just under 1,000 accounts.

This includes exports to Europe, the Middle East and Australasia. In the UK, we have 800 doors.

With the help of Dents, we intend to have accounts in every town in the UK in the next 18 months and improve our exports. Even though we have fantastic coverage in parts of the UK, we still have gaps. Almost 90 per cent of our customers are womenswear retailers. Of course, we do have accessories retailers that have sold the

Sabbella

“I THINK WE HAVE BEEN MORE AFFECTED BY THE FLOOD IN ‘CHEAP’ ACCESSORIES AVAILABLE EVERYWHERE. THE MAIN CHALLENGE IS TO MAKE SURE OUR OFFER IS DIFFERENT TO THAT AVAILABLE IN SUPERMARKETS AND CHAIN STORES. BUT I DO THINK ACCESSORIES ARE HERE TO STAY.” range well. Gaby’s has its own unique signature styling, and it’s a very commercial brand – our retail prices range from £5 to £49 – and our consumer target age is mainly the 25-50 age group. Gaby’s is our founding and strongest label, and is where we will be focusing our main efforts for growth in the immediate future.

IG: You launched handbag brand Gabriella in 2008. Are you happy with the way it has developed?

GN: We currently supply around 600 shops and stores. Growth is still on our agenda and, again, a stockist in most towns would be a nice goal.

With Gabriella, we have a real mix of retailers, from shoe shops through clothing boutiques to accessories-only shops. Gabriella has a younger look and feel; it is more on-trend than our other brands. The range is specifically aimed at the 25-40 age group, and our retail prices range from £39 to £65, so we sit in the mid price sector. Gabriella’s styling has changed and developed massively since its launch. Its real point of difference is that it is fashionable but with a commercial edge. I have to frequently reinvent the branding, looks and commercial aspect without losing the sharp fashion edge that has enabled us to maintain this point of difference. It is the hardest of the three brands to design, and is always a challenge.

IG: This season, you are launching jewellery brand Sabbella. What is the label all about?

GN: Sabbella is part of Gaby’s. I have been responsible for the development of the new brand, from conception to our launch collection. Dents will handle the distribution, and we are considering other commercial opportunities together, as there is more natural synergy between Dents and Sabbella. It was always our intention to launch a premium jewellery brand; it was more a matter of when we would do it. Since the retirement of Barbara Easton and Angie Gooderham [both designers of eponymous jewellery brands], we felt the timing was right to launch now rather than waiting another year as originally intended as Sabbella fills a niche in the market.

IG: How does Sabbella complement your portfolio?

GN: All three brands have their own identity without taking anything away from the others.

Sabbella fits Dents’ higher-end product range well, so when you put the whole groups’ brands together it should make for an exciting future for us within the Dewhurst Dent group. At present, there are few brands that cater for the more “designer” market with a realistic price tag.

Like all our brands, Sabbella has a defined target consumer – the range is aimed at the 40-plus confident, society/business woman, and pieces will be elegant and sophisticated, bold and dramatic for the woman who wants to be noticed.

IG: How would you like to develop Sabbella in the future?

GN: Our aim is to have high-end, high-profile retailers. We know the market is slightly more limited for this brand as it has a more defined target consumer and a different dynamic than our other brands. We want to find the very best stockists for the label.

IG: Generally, what is your assessment of the current accessories market?

GN: I feel the market has been affected to a large degree by the flood of cheaper mass-produced products available in supermarkets and chain stores. We make our ranges markedly different by producing unique and individual pieces, utilising superior components and strict quality control to offer an overall enhanced product. I think fashion jewellery is here to stay; in the past, accessories were either “in” or “out” each season but, now, when purchasing clothes, consumers also like to complement it with accessories.

IG: What are your goals for the future?

GN: Managing the growth of the business and to look at the ever-changing retail environment and ensure we are adapting the business accordingly. |

INFORMATION – Gaby’s founder Gaby Novelli started as a fashion accessories sales agent in 1987, importing a few years later under the Gaby’s banner – Gaby’s went limited in 1997 and was relaunched in 2009 – Gabriella was launched as a sister brand in 2008, offering design-driven and fashionable handbags at commercial prices – Gaby’s Fashion merged in January 2011 with Dewhurst Dent, the company behind Dents and Corgi Knitwear – Upmarket jewellery brand Sabbella is launching for a/w 12, offering higher-end jewellery for the 40-plus woman

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25 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

PROMOTION —

Images from SS12 ‘Flash’ programme

BEAUTIFUL PRODUCT AND COMMITTED TO INDEPENDENTS

‘In days of austerity product is key and brand is secondary’; so says Chris Foster-Orr of F.O.S Fashion Marketing before discussing the new S/S 13 season ahead. ‘We are the first to admit that there are so called ‘bigger’ brands in our market sector, which perhaps have a wider distribution than us and so therefore a bigger turnover than us. Fair play to them! What we will never admit, however, is that there is better product out there than APANAGE offers, or a more diverse product range than APANAGE offers, or a distribution policy more committed to independent retailers than APANAGE offers’! Foster-Orr continues; ‘Some of the ‘big boys’ out there are now opening their own retail outlets for instance or holding independents to ransom with extremely high minimum orders or are so committed to store groups that the independent is very much the poor relation. Well, if I were an independent I would break away from these sort of restraints and work with brands like APANAGE who are committed to the independent cause. The independent in these tough economic times can be very much the underdog and deserves to be treated with more integrity in my opinion. At APANAGE our core business is still the independent and always will be’.

Moving on to the new S/S 13 collection, Chris tells us; ‘Well, firstly of course we have the coordinated separates collection with 9 colour groups over 2 programmes. There will be far more emphasis again on femininity and soft occasion wear this time in soft feminine colours, playing to the core strength of the APANAGE collection over the years. It’s stronger than ever. Secondly we have ‘femme’, the dress collection which has approximately 160 pieces split into 2 programmes. This collection simply goes from strength to strength and is totally unrivalled in this sector for sure. The styling is perfect and prices are extraordinary giving a fabulous mark up! The product we are offering for in S/S 13 for both collection and femme is quite simply beautiful, diverse and will not be bettered by any brand in our market sector, I’m that confident. Also, with the strength of the pound against the struggling euro, I have just been informed that prices will be down by 5% on last year which really is a bonus for the independent retailer especially. God love ‘em!!’

Programme 1 - 9th July to 8th August Programme 2 - 12th August to 12th September Moda, NEC Birmingham, Stand I38 Contacts: Chris Foster-Orr/Althea Elden Tel: 020 7636 7111 Email: chrisfosterorr@aol.com F.O.S. Fashion Marketing, 4th Floor, Morley House, 320 Regent Street, London W1B 3BF

28 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

FASHION —

STYLE FILE This month’s product news —

STYLE FLASH — Rubr watches are a perfect beach and summer accessory, made from water-resistant rubber and available in a vast range of bright shades and prints.

—

▲ PITTARDS MAKES FASHION FORAY UK high-end leather manufacturer Pittards, which supplies leathers to the likes of Louis Vuitton, is making its fashion debut with its first own brand capsule collection of women’s leather styles including jackets, blouses, skirts and dresses made from the finest leathers and suedes.

Trading from its head office in Yeovil, Somerset, prices remain competitive as there is no middle STYLE FLASH man, and supply is conducted — directly to retailers.

Canadian handbag brand — Club Rochelier is launching its

▲

PRINTS CHARMING British print designer Mia Jafari is launching her second collection for a/w 12, featuring a range of luxury scarves, kitsch knits and bespoke dresses.

The Central St Martins and Goldsmith graduate specialises in unique print designs, focusing on whimsical aesthetics of Eastern landscapes and the use of high-end fabrics such as handpicked Italian cotton and finest silks.

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a/w 12 collection of stylish hold-alls, ideal for the office or weekend.

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Spanish brand We are Knitters is leading an entire movement of hip, young knitters, and debuting its DIY knitting range in the UK this season. Each knit contains a different look for customers to knit themselves, including tees, sweaters and cardis, and comes in four skill levels with its own tutorial DVD. —

▲ TEE TIME High-end T-shirt brand Angelika London combines contemporary art and directional fashion in a range of tanks, tees and dresses. Launched in 2010 by designer Olivia Ann Totman, the label is based around individual hand-drawn and painted designs with a distinctly glamorous edge.

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Eco underwear and loungewear brand Enamore is returning to the fashion scene after a busy sabbatical spent developing the ranges, which feature a new luxury basics organic cotton collection in natural and black colourways.

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High performance Tommy Hilfiger is collaborating with US performance brand Blauer on a capsule collection for a/w 12. The limited-edition outerwear range includes two styles each for men and women, combining Tommy Hilfiger’s classic American cool with Blauer’s durability.

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30 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

STOCK UPDATE —

THE 10 BEST

HOLIDAY ITEMS 02

01

03

SPOTLIGHT — Tropical prints taking inspiration from far flung holiday destinations adorn summer dresses and beach cover-ups this season. In particular, look out for tropical blooms and dip-dye pieces.

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04

05

06

07

SPOTLIGHT — While halterneck swimwear is key, with bikinis and one-pieces both featuring dramatic plunges and cut-out detailing, customers can cover up with maxi-length kaftans in sheer fabrications.

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08

09

WWB selects the perfect pieces for summer sun, including beachwear and accessories with a tropical flavour, available to get in-store now.

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10

01 Moontide, Bandeau £15.90 and matching briefs £14.90, 01209 314883 02 Winter Kate, £88, 020 7349 8887 03 Sunseeker, retail price £61.90, 020 7636 7058 04 Lepel, price on request, 0115 983 6000

05 Ruby Rocks, £19, 07973 718301 06 Zoe Jordan, £85, 020 7352 8868 07 By Malina, retail price £350, 0046 708390604 08 Olivia Rubin, £40, 020 7491 1430 09 House of Harlow 1960, £48, 020 7349 8887 10 Esprit, £20, 020 7025 7700

32 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

PROMOTION —

GOING FOR BOLD

Images are from the A/W 12 'flash' programme and are not S/S 13.

Speaking to Ruben Van der Elst from his office in Aalter, Belgium, it is quickly apparent the direction Marie Mero will be taking for their S/S 13 collection. ‘It will be very bold in print and colour’ enthuses Ruben whose family own Marie Mero.

Continuing he tells us; ‘For S/S 12 our own retail shops and our wholesale retailers did particularly well with the very colourful groups and recently we have achieved unparalleled success with a very compact A/W 12 ‘flash programme’ that featured very bold patterns and colour blocking. There is also a general trend towards colour anyway for S/S 13; however, our collection will be taking a particularly bold approach which we believe will set us apart’.

Transferring to the London showroom of Marie Mero at F.O.S Fashion Marketing, we caught up with Katie Illes, Sales Manager for the brand for her view on this very bold approach by Marie Mero, she comments; ‘I think the main catalyst for this decision was the quite unbelievable sales Marie Mero achieved on the tiny ‘flash’ collection we have

just sold for A/W 12 that I know you are going to feature on this page with this article. The Orange and the Fuschia groups sold to such a level and the retailers were demanding that this was the way forward for Marie Mero, it was an easy decision really’! Katy continues; I have seen the colour boards and the styling for S/S 13 and WOW is the only expression I can use! Everyone wants to see a collection that has the WOW factor and believe you me, BOLD certainly equals WOW!

Showing dates: 16th July - 5th September Pure - Stand Q74

Contact: Katie Illes FOS Fashion Marketing Ltd, 4th Floor, Morley House, 320 Regent Street, London W1B 3BF Tel: 020 7636 7111

33 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

IN SEASON —

CHARM OFFENSIVE After the spring trend for tribal-inspired jewellery and chunkier pieces, summer sees a change of pace with delicate pendant styles, complete with quirky charms inspired by nature. WWB picks a selection of key pieces, available to get in-store now.

— 01

02 SPOTLIGHT

03

— Key themes of flora, fauna, birds and woodland creatures set the stage for a season of nature-inspired prints and feminine dressing.

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SPOTLIGHT 04

— Whether gold-plated, silver or rose gold, the variety is vast and sure to complement this season’s wardrobes.

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05

06 -01- Alex Monroe, £44, 020 7378 6061 -02- Dower & Hall, retail price £88, 020 7819 9047 -03- Rodgers & Rodgers, £43.80, 01246 555228 -04- Sonya Bennett, £64, 01373 465221 -05- Les Nereides, £35.50, 020 7379 9197 -06- Fei Liu, £65, 0121 233 1299

34 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

FASHION —

FASHION RADAR FRIENDS WITH BENEFITS

CC KUO

New to the UK this season, American label Friends with Benefits aims to provide sexy and chic style with a modern edge.

London designer CC Kuo’s a/w 12 collection is full of super cool and relaxed, wearable pieces that “feel right, for right now.”

Established: 2009

Established: 2010

Signature style: Draping and sculpting is key, creating effortlessly luxurious silhouettes. The range is functional, designed to be worn during the day, yet easily transitioned into eveningwear.

Signature style: CC Kuo’s print-based collections are inspired by a diverse range of subjects and eras while maintaining a sense of dressing for today’s modern woman.

After working for power labels Armani, Yves St Laurent, Givenchy and Anthropologie, designer Clark Sabbat decided to launch his own line. Joining forces with long-time partner, publicist Lynn Levoy, Friends With Benefits was born in 2009.

The label launches into the UK this season with a view of targeting high-end boutiques. With its directional collection of smart, sexy separates, Friends with Benefits would hang alongside the likes of Alexander Wang, Helmut Lang, Theyskens for Theory and Phillip Lim, and describes itself as “the baby of Chloe and Rick Owens.”

Buyers should certainly be prepared to expect the unexpected, with details such as hidden zippers, asymmetric hemlines, pleated shoulders and drop crotches. Adding another dimension is the innovative layering of different fabrics including luxury wool and cashmere blends, baby alpaca, matt jersey modal, four-ply silks, hand-dyed cotton fleece, leather and denim. Available to view now, wholesale prices start at around £90.

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Born in Taiwan, CC Kuo came to London 12 years ago to complete her fashion degree at Central Saint Martins college.

After her final collection caught the eye of stylist Katie Grand, Kuo went on to hone her skills at design houses Alexander McQueen and Margaret Howell.

Since launching her eponymous label in 2010, Kuo has stayed true to her signature intricate digital prints combined with opulent fabrics such as silk, satin, fur and leather. The a/w 12 line is a nod to the glamorous 60s, with H-line satin dresses and blouses paired with tapered silk trousers and ankle-grazing full skirts key.

The Jackie O association of tailored 60s attire is updated, with fresh printed check adorning most pieces in varying sizes. The use of leather and soft fur, meanwhile, balances the tailoring elements, with key buys predicted to be traditional riding jackets in leather with fur details or adorned with quilted silk cotton.

Wholesale prices range from £28 for T-shirts to £470 for hand-knitted cashmere pieces.

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36 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

PROFILE —

DI DIESEL POWER — ITALIAN DENIM BRAND DIESEL IS IN THE MIDST OF A COMPREHENSIVE GLOBAL RESTRUCTURE, WHICH HAS DOUBLING ITS WOMENSWEAR BUSINESS WITHIN FIVE YEARS AT ITS CORE. DIESEL’S UK COUNTRY MANAGER, JONNY HEWLETT, TELLS ISABELLA GRIFFITHS HOW THE BRAND AIMS TO ACHIEVE ITS AMBITIOUS GOALS. —

37 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

J

PROFILE —

onny Hewlett is not the easiest of people to pin down for a chat.

The UK country manager of Diesel is one busy man; in charge of implementing the Italian premium brand’s global strategy across the UK and Ireland, with key elements including the growth of womenswear and the development of the label into a fully fledged lifestyle brand. And it doesn’t look like his schedule is going to ease up any time soon, having been promoted to the additional position of country manager Diesel Nordic, which will come into effect on 1 August and cover the extra territories of Scandinavia and Finland.

But when we finally do get to speak, he’s jovial and relaxed while also focused and knowledgeable about the business, with an evident passion for his role, which he took on three and a half years ago. The job at hand is vast – Diesel, one of Italy’s most famous exports and leading denim brands, is 18 months into a five-year business plan and global restructure, which is reviewing pretty much every element of the business. “We have some exciting plans in the pipeline for the next two to three years,” says Hewlett. “We sat down last year and did a full review of the brand; where we are in the market, our competition, benchmarks and future opportunities, and we are now working on implementing these plans.”

Womenswear is the product sector with the biggest development and growth potential. Globally, womenswear takes up 40 per cent of the business while, in the UK, it is currently at just 25 per cent. Menswear dominates at 60 per cent, while accessories, including footwear, bags, wallets, underwear and add-ons, make 15 per cent, not counting childrenswear and Diesel’s licensing business such as fragrances. But it also poses the biggest challenge, namely transforming the brand into a full fashion collection and re-establishing its premium denim offer to a more grown-up consumer. “Put simply, womenswear has the most growth potential,” says Hewlett. “As this currently stands at 25 per cent of our UK business, there is most definitely room for womenswear to steadily increase over the five-year global business strategy, which started in 2011.”

Diesel’s womenswear had been suffering from a too diversified denim range and a discrepancy between the price tag and look, which is now being addressed by the new plans. Hewlett works closely with Diesel’s

CEO, Daniela Riccardi, who was instrumental in identifying the womenswear issues and is pushing forward with a complete overhaul of the offer. “One of the first things Daniela did in her new role as CEO [when she came on board in 2010] was visit a Diesel store and ask herself, ‘As a woman, would I shop here?’” says Hewlett. “She had a hard time finding her way in-store; there was a mismatch between the then women’s product and pocket.

“The price was premium, but the product on offer was too young,” he continues. “Diesel needed to provide more consistency, not to zigzag from one more thing to another in terms of product, so Daniela set about creating one brand, one look, one message. The results are much cleaner and streamlined collections with marketing activity, which directly reflects these notions.”

Both Hewlett and Riccardi came to Diesel from Procter & Gamble (P&G), the company behind almost every household product from washing powder through shampoo to batteries. “I was responsible for the Fine Fragrance division, which is probably as close to fashion as P&G gets,” quips Hewlett, who started at the company as a graduate, working his way through the ranks. Riccardi, meanwhile, was president of P&G in China before joining Diesel, and has a reputation for being a clear strategist with a no-nonsense approach. She is said to have doubled the turnover of every business she has worked in and, staying true to her achievements, the goal she set out for Diesel when she joined is to double the women’s business by 2016.

The turnaround of womenswear kicked off with s/s 12. Thanks to a new design team, the collection was dramatically overhauled, offering fewer pieces, but with a larger proportion of the collection being focused on the medium to higher priced product, starting at £40 for a T-shirt to £520 for leather jackets. The collections are now based on a modern-day capsule wardrobe with premium fabrics, improved silhouettes and a range of statement pieces, while the target audience has been shifted to a more grown-up 25-35 year-old woman at the core. “This isn’t just about a one-off collection; it’s about building the foundations for a whole new approach to how women dress in Diesel,” says Hewlett. “It’s about creating

>>>

38 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

PROFILE —

Jonny Hewlett

“This isn’t just about a one-off collection, it’s about building the foundations for a whole new approach to how women dress in Diesel. It’s about creating new but instantly iconic pieces that use ever-higher quality fabrics with improved finishes, new silhouettes and better fitting shapes.” new but instantly iconic pieces that use ever-higher quality fabrics with improved finishes, new silhouettes and better fitting shapes.”

In terms of Diesel’s denim offer, a similarly ambitious repositioning has taken place. The brand has reduced the amount of styles to six key fits under the banner Fit Your Attitude, comprising bootcut, flare, high-rise, skinny, super skinny and boyfriend. All six styles have redesigned features, including elasticated construction of the belt area, side seams, as well as higher yokes and bigger back pockets. “Fit Your Attitude is a long-term concept for Diesel that we have been communicating to consumers for the past two seasons,” says Hewlett. “It consists of six different fits, with the perfect washes ranging from black and indigo to the most highly treated. The styles are redesigned to flatter the woman’s body and fit her attitude, and they will replace the majority of other previous Diesel designs.”

The changes don’t stop with the product itself, with efforts also being focused on the brand’s marketing in order to communicate the “new” Diesel to the end consumer. Traditionally, Diesel has been associated with a predominantly male customer, so marketing activities have been adjusted to have a bigger female focus in order to engage with the label’s female target market. “We have realigned our marketing strategy to have much stronger female prominence, with our advertising campaigns showing complete female outfits rather than a focus purely on denim,” says Hewlett. “We have also reshaped our media partners and, ultimately, the way we work with them to engage with our loyal and new female consumer. This also applies to events and brand partners we choose to work with to help strengthen the female side of the business in the minds of the woman we are targeting.”

This is just as well, as the womenswear market is a competitive and crowded one, particularly in terms of denim, which is polarised between other strong premium players and an ever improving high street and value offer, which is claiming a growing share of the market. Add to this the notoriously fickle nature of women, and Diesel – as any brand – has got its work cut out to be on the consumer radar. But Diesel has clearly got its eyes on the ball, as the U-turn in the womenswear business has already generated double-digit growth, and the positive feedback of the collections from both trade and consumers reaffirm it’s heading in the right direction.

“A great deal of effort has gone into trading the brand up,” says Hewlett.

“Five years ago, we were a more mainstream and denim proposition; we had to put some distance between us and the mass market.”

A carefully controlled distribution strategy is vital in this pursuit, and Diesel is balancing expansion through own mono-brand stores, e-commerce presence and wholesale accounts. In the UK, Diesel has 12 mono-brand stores, five concessions and 48 wholesale accounts, with a flagship store in Covent Garden and a new shop due to be opened in September at London’s Westfield, as well as a number of major projects that Hewlett is reluctant to reveal just yet. In addition, Diesel is experimenting with a pop-up shop format, currently in place in Covent Garden while the flagship is being refurbished. Hewlett is clear that mono-brand stores are an important aspect for Diesel, affording the label a degree of control over stock, product diversity, presentation and brand message that wholesale not always does.

Nevertheless, wholesale is a vital part of the multi-channel route, but Hewlett admits that the exact strategy for it is not yet finalised.

“In terms of distribution, the initial focus for womenswear has been through Diesel’s standalone and department store stockists, with the strategy for independents being developed to fit with the higher priced product,” says Hewlett. “Our key female accounts include Asos, Fenwick, Brown Thomas, Hoopers, Harrods and Harvey Nichols. Indies will play a vital role in regional centres where we wouldn’t justify a retail investment or where there is also no suitable department store presence, so they will be a strategically important element in our business.”

It looks like, both commercially and in terms of product, Diesel is not leaving anything to chance and taking account of every aspect of the business. “We’re looking at the whole package; the product, quality, communication, where we distribute, brand adjacencies, VM, store design and so on to ensure we are consistent and streamlined on every level,” says Hewlett. And while womenswear may be the main focus of Diesel’s current efforts, there is still a lot in the pipeline, including maintaining its strong position in menswear, developments on the accessories and footwear front and projected growth in childrenswear, in addition to the brand’s existing licensing arm, which produces fragrances, eyewear, homeware, bikes and even Diesel Kitchen, which is due to launch. It’s all aiding Diesel’s pursuit to become one of the leading global lifestyle labels. “When you look at the transition of the brand, the more we can do with the Diesel twist, the more it will reaffirm our lifestyle ambitions,” says Hewlett. |

WHO’S NE X T Fame C11, Paris: 30 June – 3 July 2012

SCOOP INTERNATIONAL Galler y 3, L ondon: 8 -10 July 2012

DESIGNERS AND AGENTS 458 Centre, New York: 18 -20 September 2012

PARIS SHOW ROOM 29 September- 3 October 2012 Appointment Only

Stacks of colour!!!!!

After a cold winter it is time for fresh and crisp colours! MAC has chosen light pastel colours in luxe fabrics for S/S 13. Refined candy tones with plenty of beige and taupe, as well as gentle sherbet shades such as apricot, pistachio or vanilla make everyone look forward to the spring.

All of this is available in our outstanding Dream Denim as well as fashion pieces such as the Cigarette trouser and the Chino which is now a Spring/Summer essential. We back our styles with a comprehensive ‘Never Out Of Stock’ system and our best selling products sell with a margin of 3.0!

Selling dates: 9th July - 24th August To make an appointment, please contact: Christopher Foster-Orr Tel: 020 7636 7111 FOS Fashion Marketing Ltd, 4th Floor, Morley House, 320 Regent Street, London W1B 3BF

43 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

PREVIEW —

SEASON’S SO SON’S PREVIEW SPRING/ SUMMER 2013 COLLECTION NEWS The key brands, new launches and developments of the season — FROM THE CATWALK Trendstop’s Jaana Jatyri outlines the trends that are trickling down into the mainstream — FASHION FOCUS Our brand-by-brand guide and essential looks of s/s 13 — YOU ARE MY CANDY GIRL The key young fashion looks — IN THE SPOTLIGHT A round-up of young fashion news —

Passport

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44 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

FASHION —

COLLECTION NEWS WWB rounds up the new launches, showrooms and brands not to miss this season.

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MICHELE EXPANDS ITS MAGIC COLLECTION

WIZARD JEANS RELAUNCHES WITH A FRESH LOOK

German trouser brand Michele is extending its body-shaping denim line, Michele Magic, for s/s 13, following an upsurge in sales. The label, which has become one of the leading brands in tummy-flattening and bum-lifting denim, has had a successful s/s 12 season, significantly increasing its number of stockists in the UK. The success has led to an expansion of the product offer. For s/s 13, new skinny shapes featuring yokes and rivets will be introduced, as well as new ankle-length shapes with intricate stitching and seam details. Capri styles are available in fade-out coloured denim and prints, and wider boot-cut styles are available for a high-fashion look. All designs are available in regular, long and petite, while fabrics range from classic denim stretches, cotton stretches with a high elasticity guarantee and a new lightweight summer cotton, also with high elasticity. Lively pastels, luminous shades, saturated colours and powdered hues form the rich colour palette.

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UK denim brand Wizard Jeans has updated its brand image this season with a sleek new logo and expanded colour palette, following extensive dialogue with its trade customers.

Additional versions of key styles have been introduced, including the Gina skinny, Sienna straight and Zara bootcut, which are all now available in deep midnight blue, while the Jude straight cut is also available in platinum grey. The move comes after in-depth research with focus groups revealed that a diversified collection would enhance the appeal of the brand. A more stylised brochure complements the new image of the label which, it is hoped, will attract an additional customer profile to its existing client base. “We are always communicating with our customers to see how they feel about the brand,” says Wizard Jeans founder Sally Allen-Gerard. “A recent series of focus groups helped us to make the decision to change the look of the label. We want to attract a sophisticated, stylish target market – it’s not the case of a new demographic, we want to show potential customers that we have what’s missing from their wardrobes.”

Future developments include the addition of more colourways, as well as having the full range manufactured in Britain, rather than parts of the collection, which is currently the case.

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45 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

FASHION —

GARDEUR IS EYEING UP UK LAUNCH OF G-DESIGN German trouser specialist Gardeur is planning to enter the UK market with its premium trouser collection, G-Design. The range, launched for s/s 12, has so far been available in Germany, Russia and The Netherlands, however the company is now eyeing up the UK, France, Spain, Italy, the US and the Middle East for a further export roll-out, and is currently looking for an agent and distributor who can operate across both womenswear and menswear.

G Design offers a progressive style with a more premium price than Gardeur’s main trouser label, Atelier Gardeur, with brand adjacencies including the likes of Boss Black and Marc Cain. Key looks for s/s 13 include prints, denim in batik washes, patchwork and modern washes, as well as techno fabrics. Retail prices will range from £120 to £170.

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SCARF BRAND MAKES UK DEBUT German scarf brand Senas is launching to the UK this season through fashion agency Cocomo.

The medium-priced accessories range offers around 30 scarves per season, each available in up to 10 different colour options and with year-round stock availability.

Scarves are available in silk chiffon, with multi-coloured prints, appliqué details, double layers, in linen with fringes and patchwork designs, with many prints created exclusively for the label. Wholesale prices range between ¤7.50 and ¤19.50.

— FASHION BY PETER LUFT MAKES UK FORAY German womenswear label Fashion by Peter Luft and its plus-size sister brand are launching to the UK through fashion agent Paul Harrison. The brand offers two collections per year with around 80 to 100 styles per season, offering shirts, co-ordinates, dresses and linen styles. Wholesale prices range between £15 and £60, with independents and department stores targeted.

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CAROL C COLLECTIONS WELCOMES RAFT OF NEW BRANDS

Ashley Jones

Daybreak by Ashley Jones

A host of new labels are joining fashion agency Carol C Collections from s/s 13, including Dutch brands Ashley Jones and sister title Daybreak by Ashley Jones, Balinese label ADC and Canadian brand Picadilly.

Forward-order label Ashley Jones is based around co-ordinated separates, which can be combined with sister brand Daybreak by Ashley Jones, a short-order collection of jersey separates. While the main line, Ashley Jones, offers two collections per year with around 35 pieces each, its sister line offers six collections per year with 15 pieces each. Both are aimed at the 35-plus age group and will be focusing on expansion through fashion indies.

ADC is part of the Ana Nonza family, a middle-market casualwear collection designed and produced in Bali. In essence, ADC is a T-shirt range available in a range of different materials and colours, each with a unique hand-printed design. Like Ashley Jones and Daybreak by Ashley Jones, the brand is targeted at the 35-plus age group and offers two collections per year with around 35 pieces.

Picadilly is relaunching to the UK after a four-year break with an easy-to-wear casualwear collection of tops, jackets and dresses. Also aimed at 35-plus market, the collection sits alongside the likes of Pomodoro, Joseph Ribkoff and Passport, and will be aimed at mid-market indies.

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Distribution Contact UK England Nord Ana Konder P +44 20 86 16 19 44 ana@showroomonelondon.com Distribution Contact UK England South London Area Bridie Cunningham P +44 208 45 29 948 M +44 7771 53 77 68 bridie@distriboutique.co.uk

shop codello.de

Place s/s 13 forward orders and a/w 12 short orders at MODA, stand K30.

For more information: Margaret Venys mvenys@tulchantextiles.co.uk 01524 274025 www.tulchanonline.co.uk

Inspired by Nature

47 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

T-Studio Therapy

FASHION —

Sathia

ESSENTIAL COLLECTIONS EXTENDS PRODUCT PORTFOLIO Manchester fashion agency Essential Collections has expanded its product portfolio with the addition of Italian sister brands T-Studio Therapy and Sathia. Produced by Italian manufacturer Takiston, which creates ranges for well-known brands such as Save The Queen, the label’s target customer is the 30-plus woman. T-Studio Therapy is an 85-piece range, offering bold and exclusive prints, while Sathia features around 80 seasonal styles and distinguishes itself with unusual cuts and a more clean look with fewer prints. Dresses and tunics are key throughout both collections, with average wholesale prices anchored around ¤40 and ¤50. The agency is planning to open between 150 and 200 accounts for each collection, targeting independent boutiques, with both brands making their UK launch at Moda Woman.

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EMRECO OPENS PERMANENT GLASGOW SHOWROOM Womenswear brand Emreco is opening a new, permanent showroom on Glasgow’s Springkell Avenue at the end of July. The showroom will house all collections by Emreco and sister labels Chianti and Strawberry Bay, and will serve as a year-round base for customers to view the collections. The newly built space is easy to reach with local travel links, and offers free car parking. The company is hoping to welcome new and existing independents to its latest base and, in addition, will retain its network of nine regional agents across the UK and the Republic of Ireland.

Meanwhile, Emreco will also be showcasing its heritage collection, Scotland 1926, for s/s 13. This tight capsule range takes inspiration from classic knitwear looks while giving them a modern twist. The line will be available in luxurious Pima cotton, complementing the 100 per cent luxury Merino wool used in the a/w Scotland 1926 range. While previous collections have been solely knitwear, for s/s 13 the brand is adding co-ordinating T-shirts and shirts to the collection, ensuring outfit building and range planning is easy to achieve.

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PARTNERS IN FASHION TAKES ON MONARI London agency Partners in Fashion has taken on German knitwear and shirt specialist Monari from s/s 13, representing the brand in the UK and Republic of Ireland.

The label offers a comprehensive range of knitwear, knitted dresses, tunics and shirts, and is aimed at the 35-plus woman.

For s/s 13, the brand has produced a collection based around feminine and urban looks and casual shapes, with stripes, dots, jungle and ethno prints and pleats among the key features, while the colour palette includes monochrome black and white, sand, camel and orange, as well as navy, red and white combinations.

Monari offers four collections per year, and is pitched at the medium level of the market, with prices ranging from £49 to £119, while brand adjacencies include the likes of Oui, Passport, Olsen and Gerry Weber. The brand’s signature style is urban and casual chic with an Italian handwriting thanks to its Italian design studio, with typical styles including cardigans in a variety of lengths, sweaters, tunics, T-shirts, and dresses with embellishments and intricate print details.

Monari will be targeted at independent retailers and small store groups, aiming for around 50 accounts in its first season.

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48 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

FASHION —

OCCASIONWEAR LABELS LAUNCH THROUGH NEXUS AGENCY Spanish occasionwear brands Carmen Melero and Dido, as well as Belgian label Oni Onik, are launching to the UK market for s/s 13 through fashion agency Nexus.

Carmen Melero provides modern and commercial designs on a two-week turnaround from its own production sites in Spain, offering a 150-piece collection twice a year. Key in the s/s 13 range, which has a Breakfast at Tiffany’s theme, is the dress, with many featuring short or cap sleeves, while jackets have moved away from the bolero to slightly longer lengths. Wholesale prices range between £150 and £250.

Fellow Spanish brand Dido has been consciously designed as a younger look for occasionwear, making it suitable for visits to the races and weddings. There are two collections per year, comprising around 30 outfits each, with the label’s target audience focused on the 30-60 age group. The brand sits alongside the likes of Linea Raffaelli and John Charles, with wholesale prices ranging between £150 and £325.

Belgian brand Oni Onik, meanwhile, is relaunching in the UK after an absence of four years. Pitched at the medium to higher end of the market, the signature look uses lace trims on dresses and jackets.

The ranges comprise around 50 pieces, and there are five to six collections per year. Oni Onik is aimed at the 35-60 age group, and will be targeting initially around 50 accounts with specialist occasionwear retailers. Key style for s/s 13 include dresses with lace covering or trim, as well as complementing jackets and coats.

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Carmen Melero

NEW DORIS STREICH AGENCY IN LONDON

HAUBER APPOINTS EX MARC CAIN DESIGNER

German womenswear brand Doris Streich has appointed Denise Springate, sales executive at fashion agency Blue & Berry, as its new agent for South England, the Midlands, South Wales, Northern Ireland and ROI. The brand’s s/s 13 collection will be presented in its London showroom at 6 Warren Mews, and customers in North England will be able to view the collection with the brand’s Manchester agency, Knights Fashions.

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German womenswear brand Hauber has appointed Susanne Müller as head of product management. Müller has joined the label from Marc Cain, where she held the same role, and will lead the brand’s further development and carefully conducted update of the range.

Müller is known for a clean and stylish design direction, as well as a luxurious feel, which she is expected to apply to her new role.

Having been with Marc Cain for 15 years, Müller works closely with the retail sector and has a strong knowledge of the global premium market.

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    

 



      

We look forward to seeing you there:

PURE London

booth P38 August 19 to 21

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LOVE BRANDS LTD.

HUGO DEANE & MICHAEL SHALDERS e: sales@lovebrandsuk.com t: 020 7377 1188 www.etcompagnie.eu

52 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

TRENDS —

PAISLEY IS ISLEY PRINTS AND CO COLOUR BLOCKING Blumarine

Jaana Jatyri, founder and CEO of trend agency Trendstop gives her take on the biggest trends for s/s 13, and explains how they will be reflected in mainstream fashion.

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Felipe Oliveira

Alberta Ferretti

Salvatore Ferragamo

PRINT – TECHNICOLOUR PALM FRONDS

Fatima

The undersea theme gets a 60s reworking, as deep navy blue is juxtaposed with lagoon-like azure.

Teamed with white, its Grecian coastal credentials are underscored by the curves of waves to form necklines. Perfect for one-piece dressing, dresses get watery texture contrasts with silks, offset with gloss finishes or colour-blocked futuristic heeled brogues.

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HTW

COLOUR – AQUATIC SKY BLOCKING

Tropical flora and fauna adorn statement summer dresses for a bold take on florals. Colours are amped up, and bright blues replace natural greens on a yellow sunset ground with hibiscus flower detail. A more muted yellow has a beach effect with brown and coral leaf print, while a blackberry mauve fit-and-flare dress is garment-printed, creating white and printed “missed effect” details.

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53 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

TRENDS —

Emilio Pucci

Prada

Ermanno Scervino

D&G

Tibi

SILHOUETTE – SILK SCARF PRINT PANT

Vionnet

JEWELLERY – RESIDENT SOCIALITE RHINESTONES Fifties-style cocktail earrings are updated for a modern resident socialite woman. Sparkling rhinestones surround gold lattice work detailing, while peridot pear-cut gemstones hang from cornflower resin roses. White emerald cut-glass studs provide a more subtle take on the trend.

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Flamboyant silk scarf print pants give a patterned luxe lounge feel. Fine silk provides a summery, floaty feel with a gathered and self-belted waistband, while thicker Baroque scrolled silk satin has a more tailored formal feel with a stay-pressed centre crease. Alternatively, a fluid crepe de chine has a placement print on the leg and a sporty side strip in contrast navy blue.

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Jil Sander

Sportmax

Paco Rabanne

PRINT – PAISLEY POP

Mugler

For more information or trend forecasts visit www.trendstop.com

Thakoon

FOOTWEAR – HOLOGRAPHIC PUMP Sixties sci-fi stewardess pumps bring a fashion-forward edge to this classic go-to shoe shape.

All-over oil-slick effect leather, high-shine peep toes with silver metal pencil heels or pointed toe-cap detail offer variations on this futuristic fabrication.

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J W Anderson

Paisley patterns are modernised in fresh, upbeat colourways as the traditional Indian motif is reworked in a turquoise and maroon twisted teardrop shape on clean white, finished with a contrast black fringed hem.

Shift dresses and woven tops feature fluoro pastel pink, blue and emerald green swirls, giving a blurred vision effect. Peplum tanks, meanwhile, come in jade mint satin for an ethnic luxe look.

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Spring/Summer 2013

We’ll try and cheer you up with a very colourful collection for SS’13!

For appointments, please ring our London showroom on 0207 291 0522. Steilmann (UK) Ltd, Bentinck House, 3-8 Bolsover Street, London W1W 6AB

55 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

REPORT —

COLOUR EXPLOSION AND A PLAY OF CONTRASTS SPRING/SUMMER 2013 IS DEFINED BY TWO KEY DIRECTIONS – A BURST OF COLOUR AND AN ARRAY OF BOLD PRINTS AND GRAPHICS – CREATING AN EXCITING AND VIBRANT SEASONAL WARDROBE. —

Bandolera

Cool sorbet colours, cute candy shades, subtle pastels or shockingly bright neon tones; this season’s colour palette has something for every taste, and makes for a vivid and commercial selling point. Hot pinks and corals are still around and can be found in many key collections from mainstream to premium, however bright aqua shades and turquoise are emerging as the main trend shades of the season, along with acidic lime, lemon and kiwi, which are injecting a fresh colour burst into the palette.

The motto is clear: the brighter, the better, and old fashion rules don’t apply – colour mixing and clashing is a must. The same goes for prints, which appear bigger, bolder and more unusual this season. Florals, Breton stripes, abstract graphics, scarf prints, animal prints, tie-dyes, wallpaper motifs, birds, palms and Hawaiian prints – everything goes and, ideally, a mix and clash of several themes in the same outfit. What used to be a no-go is now a welcome new twist on old favourites, and colour plays a big part. Leopard print and florals?

Tick, but try the leopard print in bright pink or orange, and the florals in daring tropical combinations for guaranteed eye-catchers.

In terms of product, blouses and dresses offer the usual popular backdrop for all of the above, but it’s trousers that have really come through as the leading fashion item, boasting both colour and prints and making for a versatile product group. Of course, the younger and more directional end of the market will be at the forefront of this trend, but the majority of mainstream players have also embraced it and, from chinos to jeans or silk and cotton pants, every variety is represented and boasts statement prints.

For those not so daring or preferring a more classic look, s/s 13 still offers alternatives. Sophisticated desert shades and warm earthy hues also feature and, in combination, allow for a more understated take on summer dressing. Layering particularly lends itself to this, so combinations of different lightweight materials and unstructured silhouettes as well as more relaxed takes on tailoring can be found.

Overall, spring/summer 2013 is characterised by a return to femininity, while also encouraging us to be daring and have fun with fashion.

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PREVIEW —

THE LOOK

NEUTRAL ELEGANCE

56 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

Rene Lezard

ILSE JACOBSEN This season’s inspiration comes from a picnic taking place in picturesque surroundings where artificial materials meet natural ones. This translates as a colour explosion as well as in the quintessential Scandinavian functionality, which is reflected throughout the collection.

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Vibrant summer brights may be dominating the colour palette this season, but if your customers prefer more understated chic, there is still plenty of scope. Mix a collective of warm desert tones such as sand, camel and stone for an elegant statement and soften a sharp tailoring edge with slouchy pants, fluid silk blouses and unstructured blazers.

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EUGEN KLEIN Eugen Klein is a complete coordinated range of modern classics, sporty daywear, smart and unstructured suiting and standalone pieces. This season’s key styles centre around versatile skirts in plain colours and inkjet prints in longer lengths. Colour combinations include black and kiwi as well as sapphire and buttercup.

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57 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

PREVIEW —

TRAPPER QUEENS

MAC Light summer denims, cigarette pants, cropped chinos and lightweight trousers make up Mac’s s/s 13 collection. In addition to the popular skinny styles, this range sees the introduction of comfortable boyfriend styles, while an array of colours such as pastels and sherbet shades mix with florals and graphic prints.

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UN POINT C’EST TOUT Pure lines and unconventional cuts characterise Un Point C’est Tout. Roses and Japanese flowers are dominating themes in terms of prints, while shapes are fluid and loose fitting. Anise, coral, turquoise, grey, blue, khaki and black are dominating shades.

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Leather jackets remain the focus at Trapper Queens, with the s/s 13 collection divided into an elegant and a sportier direction. From short jackets and blazer variations through waistcoats, blousons and biker jackets to new interpretations of trench coats and parkas, the range covers an extensive variety of styles.

The colour spectrum covers shades of green and blue as well as warm, earthy tones.

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MARC CAIN Nature in the form of birds, flowers and butterflies have been the main inspiration at Marc Cain, combined with high-tech materials for a modern look. Deluxe sport is another key theme, offering new combinations of feminine prints teamed with industrial materials and sporty details.

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AIRFIELD Glamorous but wearable separates come from Airfield which, this season, has elegant tailoring at its core.

Dresses, lightweight coats and easy-to-wear tops and jackets are among the predicted bestsellers.

— ANNETTE GÖRTZ Urban luxury comes from German brand Annette Görtz, which favours a natural chalky palette of greys and stones, complemented by chic light blue and yellow. Transparency is a key theme, while spots and dots are the dominating print design.

— CHIANTI Chianti offers relaxed occasion-led dressing with soft, feminine silhouettes. Bold statement prints feature on soft tricot jersey, with maxi dresses among the key styles.

— ELENA MIRO Sports-luxe influences are still visible in Elena Miro’s collection, with relaxed trouser shapes and blazers among the key staples. The colour palette is neutral and sophisticated, with whites, greys and stone dominating.

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PREVIEW —

COLOUR INJECTION

58 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

Marc Cain

THE LOOK

RENE LEZARD Rene Lezard takes inspiration from the 20s with innovative fabrics and feminine silhouettes at the core. Golden plisse skirts and blouses are combined with flared trousers with a broad belt and wide swinging skirts with longer knitted jackets, while collarless blazers are teamed with slim-fit, three-quarter length trousers.

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Spring/summer is all about having fun with bright shades, with kiwi and lime among the biggest trends coming through on the colour palette. Be bold, and team clashing brights for a head-to-toe look or, for a more subtle approach, use these hues as colour highlights against a backdrop of neutrals or delicate prints.

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SEM PER LEI Sem Per Lei is focusing on its core expertise this season, and offers a range of versatile knits featuring exclusive details, new techniques and finishes. This is complemented by ready-to-wear styles, which are relaxed, sporty and neo-romantic.

Colours mix and blend, from delicate shades to radiant candy and aqua tones.

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59 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

PREVIEW —

PASSPORT Cleaner lines with less adornment and more gloss with understated metallic effects replace the vintage influences of previous seasons. The brand is favouring a casual elegance, with smart, dressy styles, including slim-fit trousers, A-line skirts and dresses, simple blazers and elegant knits key.

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JOULES Quirky prints, eccentric trims and detailed finishes on country-inspired clothing sum up the handwriting of UK brand Joules. This season’s collection is another versatile offering that references key trends with a Joules slant.

Look out for block colouring, florals, stripes, sailor ties and contrast grosgrain details.

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GELCO The s/s 13 outerwear collection from Gelco combines a modern look with a versatile colour range. Silhouettes are relaxed and casual with a focus on quality and innovative features. The collection covers everything from trench coats through parkas to short jackets.

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BETTY BARCLAY This season, Betty Barclay’s collection is inspired by the 50s, combined with cool and sporty ideas for a modern and feminine preppy look. Colour blocking and expressive prints are dominating trends, and appear on everything from blazers through ankle pants to dresses and tunics.

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EMRECO Knitwear takes centre stage at Emreco, and sports a relaxed feel perfect for layering. Cool linen-mix sweaters and waistcoats, space-dye ribbon yarn knits that nod to a more fashion-led look, and soft, drapey fine gauge printed cotton styles make a seasonal statement.

— EPICEA & CREATIVE BY EPICEA Tunics, dresses and tops are some of the predicted bestsellers at the French brand. The signature look is quirky and modern, featuring floral prints, vivid colours and fluid lines inspired by the 50s. Raspberry, red pepper, white, coral, apricot and fuchsia are among the main colours.

— ERFO Erfo’s signature look is based around blouses, tunics and soft two-pieces, and this season once again offers a rich selection of styles. Fine-cotton voiles, garment-washed linen blouses, stripes and digital prints feature heavily in this season’s range, which puts vibrant shades of pink, cobalt and aqua as well as dusted pastel shades in the spotlight.

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PREVIEW —

AQUA BELLES

60 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

Passport

THE LOOK

KIRSTEN This season’s outerwear looks at Kirsten focus on lightness and functional looks, with trench coats, reversible quilted jackets, biker-style jackets and blazers in linen, cotton or leather-look key. Colour stories include coral, raspberry, cobalt blue, aqua, as well as fade-out neon shades in orange, yellow and green.

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Aqua shades are the hottest colour to emerge for this season, and make for a fresh alternative. Whether turquoise, azure or blue lagoon, it’s a great palette offset against citrus shades such as yellow or orange, or used as a basis for dramatic colour blocking.

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HAUBER At Hauber you will find clean, stylish and wearable luxury as well as co-ordinates and statement pieces. Key styles include a printed paisley full-length skirt and an array of prints, which run through the collection. White, silver and assorted neons make up the colour palette.

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61 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

PREVIEW —

MICHELE

ALL BEAUTIFUL French brand All Beautiful’s collection is divided into five stories this season, ranging from romantic to technical themes. The pieces are quirky and distinctive but also wearable, and cover sizes eight to 20. Coats, dresses, skirts and tops are among the highlights, while lime, lemon, white and berry create summery colour injections.

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TRU LUXE The women’s denim collection has been extended with a selection of new styles and colours. All pairs are high rise, with key styles including bootcut, straight leg, skinny, skinny crop, boyfriend jean and power panel jean. Colour choices are available in dark and light blue, magenta, plum, russet, white, black and slate.

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A narrow silhouette remains dominant at Michele for s/s 13.

A variety of lengths, particularly ankle, provide an extensive selection. Elements from sportswear such as piping, zips and stitching have been introduced, while shorts, turn-ups and capri styles create a sophisticated summer look. Skirts, meanwhile, are a fashion highlight, in particular full skirts and modern takes on retro styles.

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NOT THE SAME New skirt and dress shapes that emphasise the waist, boucle jackets and new jeans feature heavily at Not the Same. The range is characterised by unexpected colour and fabric combinations along with an array of vibrant prints, which are also key this season.

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FABER Key characteristics at Faber this season include prints, from monochrome versions through abstract graphics to florals. Light quilted and knitted jackets as well as printed trousers are among the dominating styles, as are perforated leather jackets and knitwear styles with contrasting colour appliqués.

— GODSKE Tencel denim styles are among the predicted bestsellers at Godske, which offers casual separates that can be combined and mixed. Key colours this season include natural shades as well as khaki, denim blue and black.

— GEORGEDE French brand Georgede is known for a very European, chic and sophisticated style, but still injects an element of fun into the range, namely by a wealth of colours and prints. This season, mid and maxi lengths dominate dresses and skirts, while purple, black, fuchsia and corn blue are colour highlights.

— GUIDO LOMBARDI Knitwear-based separates come from Italian brand Guido Lombardi, which has introduced new yarn mixes to the range this season. Fine knits complemented by tone-on-tone dresses and figure flattering cuts with panel inserts round off the collection, while coral, sea green and sapphire blue dominate the colour palette.

— IBLUES The spotlight is on iBlues for young and trendy chic this season. The brand is introducing a capsule collection of body fitted styles as well as a blouse and shirt collection. In the main range, graphic prints, lace and techno-couture construction are among the highlights.

Periwinkle blue, mandarin, jade and lime make up the colour range.

— JAMES LAKELAND Inspired by legendary eccentric English stylist Isabella Blow, the brand has created a range of glamorous yet wearable styles with a focus on detailing. Sharp silhouettes in stretch-printed fabrics form the basis for dresses, tunics and tops.

— JORLI Jorli’s signature is contemporary casual coordinates and dresses that can be worn from day to evening. Bold prints and lace embroidery detailing feature on many styles, while colours include pink, grey, lilac, sky blue, turquoise, white and black.

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PREVIEW —

LES FÉES DU VENTS A feminine and on-trend collection with copyrighted prints, Les Fées Du Vents hails from France and presents quirky designs with an original edge. Look out for the brand’s laser-cut leather jackets and coats, as well as dresses, tunics and tops, which are among the stand-out pieces.

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Joules

THE LOOK

CLASHING PRINTS

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Florals are massive this season, and so are Breton stripes – why not wear them together and create a quirky and unconventional clash of prints? Try sticking to a complementing colour palette to ensure it stays on the right side of mismatched and cool.

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PAUSE CAFÉ Dresses are the main ingredient in Pause Café’s collection, though shirts and blouses are also making a comeback this season. Look out for florals and light and airy fabrics, which also feature heavily.

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DES PETITS HAUTS

BANDOLERA Seductive femininity sums up the theme at Bandolera this season, which is translated into a mix of fabrics and prints. Florals and geometric graphics dominate in terms of prints, while greens, yellows and pinks inject a summer colour palette into the range. Styles can be combined for smart-casual looks as well as city or party outfits.

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LATTE The brand’s new collection focuses predominantly on iconic stand-out tops and knitwear, using unusual yarns as well as silks, cottons and linens. The colour palette ranges from antique stone, sepia and black to lime, interjected with two-tones, brights and multi-colour combinations.

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A key trend at French brand Des Petits Hauts is layering; T-shirts to be worn under jumpers and dresses, fine cashmere knits to wear over printed dresses or chunky wool knitwear to go over everything. Look out for the label’s embroidered cotton jersey jacket, silk tea dresses and cashmere A-line jumpers, which are among the predicted bestsellers.

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STEILMANN Key styles at Steilmann include chinos and slim-leg jeans in pastels and bright colours, as well as boucle and cropped jackets, while smart blouses also make a comeback. The brand’s long skirts and dresses with sleeves in 100 per cent cottons and linen remain some of the strongest sellers of the collection.

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JUST WHITE Just White offers blouses, jackets and shirts with intricate detailing, creative embellishments and lace adornments.

Combinations of florals and stripes, urban jungle prints, stripes and lace as well as bold checks and florals characterise the key trends in the collection. Vibrant shades of coral, cobalt, yellow, mint and earth tones round off the range.

— LINDI Lindi returns with its easy-to-wear, crease-free and machine-washable collection which, this season, puts the spotlight on crinkle skirts, tops, shirts, dresses, jackets and coats with colourful prints and patterns. The brand’s bestselling shirt style is being reinterpreted with a new print, while yellows, pinks, greens, oranges, beiges and blues dominate the colour choice.

— LUISA CERANO Luisa Cerano is going for reduced, slick and sophisticated looks and materials this season. Silhouettes are body-conscious, while the overall direction remains feminine and chic. Key trends are colour injections and prints including florals and digital graphics.

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PREVIEW —

ELISA CAVALETTI

MARC AUREL Marc Aurel follows two key directions this season. Firstly, it’s all about new sophistication with clean dress combinations, while new sportswear brings sports-inspired detailing to the forefront. Neutrals are an important feature in terms of colour, though yellow, pink, coral and emerald inject contrasts.

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FRANSA Key themes at Fransa include sporty chic, a sophisticated interpretation of sporty looks with a focus on technical fabrics, functional detailing and colour blocking, while new ethics offers a revival of ethnic trends with an emphasis on Egyptian and artisan prints, handcrafted details and a bohemia look.

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This season sees the introduction of plus sizes to the brand’s offer, which specialises in unstructured feminine styling with signature detailing.

The collection consists of blouses, dresses, occasionwear, knitwear and accessories, and features pastels and a variety of prints for s/s 13.

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ATELIER GARDEUR Key fashion stories at Atelier Gardeur are based around powdery pastels, a retro-maritime look, black and white and jungle fever, with cropped styles taking centre stage. New elements in the collection are sustainably manufactured women’s trousers under the banner Made in Green and Fairtrade-certified denims.

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MAIS IL EST OU LE SOLEIL The brand’s signature is mixing fabrics and textures for a modern, wearable look. This season offers an eclectic collection for all events and occasions. Sunshine prints, Japanese graphic and ocean themes feature in the collection, which is being relaunched for s/s 13.

— MARCONA Summer tweeds and soft knitted jackets as an alternative to cardigans take centre stage at Marcona. The collection is based around feminine and elegant modern classics, and offers a colour explosion, featuring soft and hot pink, green, silver, ice blue, beige, lilac and cobalt blue.

— MARINA RINALDI A sophisticated, chic luxury wardrobe covering sizes 12-28 can be seen at Marina Rinaldi. A key trend this season is Garden in Bloom, offering colourful dresses. Jersey dresses are among the predicted bestsellers, while coral, yellow, cerulean and emerald make up the colour range.

— NEON BUDDHA Jersey pieces, basic tops, long jersey jackets, two-piece leisure suits, cardigans, jumpers and trousers form the key styles in Neon Buddha’s collection. The sister brand of Pure Handknits offers a colour scheme that complements both ranges, and can therefore be coordinated. Many styles are available in plus sizes.

— NICE CONNECTION Look out for twinsets, crisp cotton shirts and dresses at Nice Connection.

The brand specialises in luxurious quality knitwear but also offers complementing separates for the sophisticated customer.

— POMODORO Predicted bestsellers at Pomodoro include eye-catching print maxi dresses, statement knits with lace and chiffon adornment, lace dresses with crochet and Guipure lace, as well as the brand’s bestselling dress, which has been recoloured in pastel shades.

— STRAWBERRY BAY Following on from its launch last season, Strawberry Bay continues to offer its lifestyle bestsellers in fresh spring colours, including its Penzance sweatshirt and St Ives fleece. New this season are waxed and cotton jackets, cotton trousers, skirts and crops.

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YOU ARE MY CANDY GIRL S/S 13 YOUNG FASHION IS INSPIRED BY STEPFORD WIVES AND KOOKY 50S STYLING

Jacket, Bourne, £71, 01482 334590 Crop top, Lashes, £12, 020 8809 4432 Shoes, Bourne, £57, 01482 334590 Sunglasses, Jeepers Peepers, £6.50, 020 7724 7238 Skirt, stylist’s own Opposite: Shirt, Eucalyptus, £15, 020 7740 6323 Shorts, Yumi, £12, 020 8961 2299 Earrings, Konplott, £21.50, 07834 193989 Necklace and glasses, stylist’s own

Dress, The Style, price on request, 020 8838 5979 Sunglasses, stylist’s own

Jumper, Yumi, £18, 020 8961 2299 Jeans, Mih Jeans, £55, 020 7349 9030 Shoes, Ravel, £26, 01706 212512 Camera, stylist’s own Opposite: Dress, Darling, £35, 020 7636 6868 Ring, right hand, Konplott, £25.50, 07834 193989 Headscarf and ring, left hand, stylist’s own

Cardigan, People Tree, retail price £125, 020 7042 8900 Shirt, Mih Jeans, £70, 020 7349 9030 Shorts, Prey of London, £34, 020 7488 1380 Shoes, Bourne, £57, 01482 334590 Necklace, Konplott, £36, 07834 193989 Earrings, stylist’s own

Dress, Sugarhill Boutique, £21, 01273 911393 Shoes, Bourne, £62, 01482 334590 Sunglasses, Jeepers Peepers, £6.50, 020 7724 7238

Top, Bourne, £52, 01482 334590 Trousers, Bourne, £47, 01482 334590 Earrings, stylist’s own

Dress, Ruby Rocks, £18, 0044 7973718301 Shoes, Bourne, £62, 01482 334590 Shirt and sunglasses, stylist’s own

Gilet, Prey of London, £76, 020 7488 1380 Skirt, Bourne, £61, 01482 334590 Blouse, Yumi, £18, 020 8961 2299 Earrings, stylist’s own Opposite: Cardigan, Ichi, £12.50, 020 7436 8332 Dress, Yumi, £16, 020 8961 2299 Necklace, stylist’s own

Blouse, Sugarhill Boutique, £14, 01273 911393 Jeans, Vero Moda, £9.33, 020 3205 0315 Necklace, stylist’s own Opposite: Dress, Bielle, £30, 020 7831 9163 Necklace and ring, stylist’s own

Jumper, Vero Moda, £14, 020 3205 0315 Skirt, Vero Moda, £6, 020 3205 0315 Earrings, stylist’s own

Jacket, Prey of London, £70, 020 7488 1380 Jumpsuit, The Style, price on request, 020 8838 5979 Shoes, Ravel, £28, 01706 212512 Sunglasses, Jeepers Peepers, £6, 020 7724 7238

Dress, Darling, £28, 020 7636 6868 Earrings, Konplott, £17.50, 07834 193989 Necklace, Konplott, £82.50, 07834 193989 Credits: Photographer: Darren Black www.darrenblackphotography.com Assistant: Maciek Groman www.maciek.co Hair and make-up: Stephanie Stokkvik www.stephaniestokkvik.com Model: Amanda Renberg at Sapphires Model Management www.sapphiresmodel.com Styling: Natalie Dawson

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SPO IGHT SPOTL ON...

WWB TAKES A SNEAK PEAK AT THE FASHION BRANDS UPPING THEIR GAME FOR S/S 13.

— TWIST & TANGO GOES NEW YORK The Streets of New York have inspired Twist & Tango’s s/s 13 collection, which features a creative mix of colour and contrasts. A playful palette of blush, coral, lemon, orange, worn-out blue, mint and bone is prevalent, while the silhouette consists of soft volumes on tops, which are contrasted with skinny printed trousers. Other key styles include printed blazers and oversized silk tops.

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ART DECO INSPIRES VILA After seeking a more optimistic view for the season ahead, Vila’s inspiration came from the 20s Art Deco movement. Elegant yet simple silhouettes feature throughout, with cropped sleeves, peplum detailing, pleating and dropped waists on show. Combined with jacquard fabrics, crochet laces, flower prints, paisley and geometric shapes, the all-round vibe is feminine and flirty.

Predicted bestsellers include coated, coloured denim jeans and a trench coat and, colour-wise, coral and pink are combined with nude tones.

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NEUTRALS DOMINATE AT IN WEAR For s/s 13, In Wear has taken a new approach to colour, using nudes and wheat as basic tones, and making prints part of the colour scheme. Silver, champagne and copper complete the palette, while an abstract snake print can be found in black and nude. To complement the look, two styles of champagne-coloured sunglasses with golden sidebars have been created. Key accessories consist of soft clutches in mint green and silver, as well as stiletto boots with ornamental stitching on the front. Highlights include dresses with peplum detail, leather jackets with quilted sleeves and distressed white jeans.

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TRIBAL MIX AT INSIGHT The s/s 13 collection from young fashion label Insight is filled with tropical flavour and colour this season. Fruit and floral prints adorn T-shirts and shorts, while bold toucan-printed culottes, sleeveless shirts and flirty dresses are key pieces. Tribal references are also thrown into the mix with tougher, muted colourways.

Embroidery on faded denim pieces is a must, and matching cropped tops and high-waist shorts feature in neon and sorbet shades. To finish off the look, there is a hint of last season’s floral trend, this time reworked with hibiscus and magnolia blossoms.

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NIKITA’S ART INFLUENCES Collaboration is the name of the game from streetwear brand Nikita this season as it teams up with a number of print artists to create memorable T-shirts with an underwater theme. Colour is high on the agenda, with highlights including mint, coral and soft pinks, while textured fabrics are the result of melange creations and subtle patterns.

Highlights from the collection are short shorts, tank tops and thin shirts, which are designed to be layered up or down.

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FASHION —

GEOMETRY LESSON AT DAGMAR For spring 2013, Dagmar draws inspiration from Chinese tangram puzzles (a puzzle made of seven wooden blocks with endless combinations), which were popular in the 80s. The idea inspired the brand’s silhouettes and details, with the look based on colour blocking and geometry. The result is sporty and relaxed shapes in Dagmar’s signature aesthetic. Square shirts made from washed silk are key, as well as leggings and pencil skirts made from technical jersey. The colour palette pays tribute to postmodernism, with steel grey, blue, acid yellow, metallics, and black and white against tobacco key.

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SUNKISSED LOOK AT DAY BIRGER ET MIKKELSEN Day Birger et Mikkelsen is turning the ethnic trend stylish and sexy for s/s 13 with dresses in soft cottons alongside soft suiting. Inspired by the Maui surfers, sportswear is taking a front seat, mixing ethnic dreadlocks with stylish futuristic fabrics and metallic embellishment for a sunkissed look. Soft bleached fabrics feature heavily in pastel tones set against brighter accessories for a shot of strong colour.

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FASHIONABLY BOURNE Bourne, the go-to brand for feminine footwear, has branched into apparel for s/s 13 via a collaboration with fashion designer Shaun Barker-Newton.

The result is a contemporary range featuring relaxed tailoring alongside statement cocktail pieces, accessories and shoes, showcased in three trend stories – Purely Modern features a palette of grey, nude and blush combined with sheers, sequin and lace detailing; Bold Moves presents easy-to-wear separates and day-to-evening dresses; and Gilt Trip celebrates polished glamour in exotic skins and monochrome prints.

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SURREALISM CHARACTERISES VOLCOM For s/s 13, Volcom is embracing a quirky new look, with classic shapes reworked with surreal prints and abstract art effects.

Sci-fi references are prevalent, as well as a neon bright colour palette including vibrant purple and lime, along with white and black to offset. Predicted key buys include denim jackets, tunic tank tops, chinos and cut-off shorts for relaxed day dressing with a twist.

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LIKE A KID IN A SWEET SHOP Village Bicycle may well be one of the most exciting fashion indies to have recently sprung up in London, offering a fun and edgy fusion of ultra cool fashion, music, art – and a sprinkle of weird and wonderful knick-knacks. Isabella Griffiths found out more.

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N

otting Hill boutique Village Bicycle is the punk rock of retail. Edgy, über-cool and that little bit rebellious, the shop breaks with conventional fashion-store rules and offers retail theatre at its best. On entering the two-storey building, the quirky interior of pink and glass fittings is juxtaposed against contemporary artwork and shelves with eclectic knick-knacks, while the wall leading up the stairs to the second floor is covered with neon hearts interspersed with shelves of edgy shoes, which themselves look like artwork. One would be forgiven for thinking it’s an art gallery and, indeed at Village Bicycle, fashion fuses with art, music, popular culture and much more.

The store is the realisation of a childhood dream for owner Willa Keswick, who opened the doors to her “sweetshop” in May 2011.

“As clichéd as it sounds, I’ve always wanted to have my own shop and offer something for everyone,” she says. “As a child growing up in London, I

loved hanging out at Frog Hollow, a shop on Kensington High Street that had everything from stickers through lollipops to fairy lights and more, and it’s always inspired me.

“I always wanted to do something like that and, when I was 15, my dad registered the name Village Bicycle for me because I knew that, whatever I’d end up doing, that would be the brand,” Keswick continues.

“The name is tongue-in-cheek and intriguing. People often think we’re a bike shop, which is quite funny, and it shows we don’t take fashion or ourselves too seriously.”

Fittingly, Village Bicycle stocks clothing, shoes, jewellery and accessories from It labels such as Bash, Alice McCall, April May, Ashish, Dirty Pretty Things, Hanky Panky, American Retro, House of Holland, Chloe Sevigny for Opening Ceremony, Eleven Paris, Mark Fast, Felder Felder, Surface to Air and Terry de Havilland, and often offers designer collaborations exclusive to the store. So far, so fashion, but the product

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Willa Keswick

selection doesn’t stop there. Shoppers can also rummage around to find candles by Lucien Pellat-Finet, wooden skeleton figurines, lighters with images such as Michael Jackson and Black Sabbath, skull telephones, lip telephones, ceramic skulls, books, plates with naked ladies, rabbit and robot lamps as well as a range of gadgets from Japan.

“We’re a one-stop destination store,” says Keswick. “I wanted it to be accessible and aspirational, a place where people can come in and pick up a lollipop or knick-knack for £2 but, as they grow older and get better jobs, they can also spend their money on an investment piece. I wanted our customers to be able to grow with and into the brand.

“Initially, we had a product range that ranged from £2 to £2,000, but now our core is from £2 to £600, with a few more expensive one-off pieces. I find that people save up for things when they really love them.”

Village Bicycle’s main customer demographic is 16-25 at the core, though Keswick concedes there is no real ceiling in terms of the age of the people who step through its doors. Celebrity endorsement is high on Keswick’s agenda, and the shop regularly kits out girls du jour including Jessie J, Rita Ora and Eliza Doolittle. “A lot of our customers are inspired by celebrities and media,” says Keswick. “Of course, we get the odd stylist come in with a unique take on things but, overall, the masses follow a celebrity culture, and we are tapping into that.”

Last month, Keswick launched www.imavillagebicycle.com, a virtual platform that extends the Village Bicycle experience to the net and offers shoppers round the clock access to the VB World. In addition to the e-commerce side, VB World features an interactive e-zine, showcasing a fast-paced mix of global fashion, art, music, culture, people, parties, celebrity interviews, music from up-and-coming talents, downloadable DJ and model-curated playlists, access to VIP gigs and exclusive festival tickets.

On and offline, Village Bicycle also sells the work of up-and-coming artists curated by Scream Gallery London, who Keswick works closely with. All of this accumulates into a fun and creative shopping experience, but also helps put Village Bicycle on the map. “Fashion, art and music are interlinked, and it adds another dimension and generates more hits than just a normal e-commerce website so, commercially, it’s become

an important element, too, and we work hard at keeping it up-to-date,” says Keswick.

At 26 years of age, Keswick herself represents the young and hip clientele she’s targeting, but she’s also got solid retail experience under her belt. Having studied at the London College of Fashion and London’s American Intercontinental University, she finished her education with a business course at Portobello Business Centre. Keswick also worked in fashion and celebrity PR before working as a buyer for an international store in Singapore, where she introduced a number of UK brands to the Asian market.

Just over a year into her own venture, she’s clearly determined to make it a success. “Of course, it’s tough out there at the moment, and the first year has been difficult, I won’t deny it,” says Keswick. “But I didn’t expect it not to be tough. These days, you need more drive, you constantly have to have new ideas and develop. I work from 9am until 11pm most nights to keep all the balls in the air, but that’s just how it is.”

It doesn’t come as a surprise that the next chapter in Village Bicycle’s quirky product range is already in the making – Keswick’s own Village Bicycle collection. And, of course, it will be nothing less than edgy, quirky and cool – just like the shop. |

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SCOOP INTERNATIONAL 8-10 JULY – SAATCHI GALLERY, LONDON The fourth edition of Scoop International, taking place this month at the spectacular venue of London’s Saatchi Gallery, promises an even more impressive mix of high-end brands, niche designers and boutique labels.

WWB sums up the latest signings not to miss.

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NOCTURNE For s/s 13, Nocturne was inspired by Myanmar; influences have been drawn from the fresh colour combinations of the Burmese sunsets, while prints reflect the tropical native flora and fauna.

Highlights in the collection include fun summer dresses, statement costume jewellery and elegant eveningwear. The brand is also launching its first scarf range in striking prints.

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LARA BOHINC Lara Bohinc has built a reputation for timeless modernity, and continues to deliver exclusive pieces. Having started as a jewellery brand, the collection has grown over the years and now also includes accessories such as scarves and bags with an individual twist.

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CHARLI Offering timeless pieces, Charli is once again expanding beyond everyday basics, and brings a fashionable edit of jersey separates for s/s 13. Muted tones form the perfect backdrop for the brand’s casual-chic concept, with grey, taupe, blue and white combining with peach, Caribbean blue and a variety of green hues for a subtle colour injection.

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120% LINO The s/s 13 collection at 120% Lino encompasses two-tone shift dresses with block-printed safari colours, candy coloured jersey pieces, sequin textures, asymmetrical hems and beachy dip-dye separates. The collection offers a contemporary fusion of fairy-tale romance and softly structured tailoring.

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SEMON CASHMERE Using highest quality Mongolian cashmere, Semon Cashmere offers chic styles with a classic and contemporary feel. Lightweight lacy details and unusual asymmetric twists give the collection its signature, while a vibrant palette of summer colours such as burnt orange, coral pink, turquoise, white, biscuit and navy rounds off the range.

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ATTIC AND BARN Italian brand Attic and Barn comes along with a retro cool, punchy aesthetic, and offers dresses and separates with an innovative repertoire of shapes and prints. S/s 13 takes its inspiration from the paintings of Paul Gaugin, translating into swaying Hawaiian dresses, maxi fruits teamed with maxi stripes as well as ruffle detailing. City shorts, blouses and statement pants also feature.

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BLEULAB LA denim label Bleulab is based on an innovative concept, offering reversible jeans that break the mould of traditional denim collections. A double-headed tack button and reversible zipper make it possible to wear the denim on two sides, turning it inside out and providing two versions that can take the wearer from day to night, giving “buy one, get one free” a new meaning.

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VILAGALLO Spanish brand Vilagallo is a lifestyle womenswear collection that combines a second-generation tailoring heritage with a colourful and feminine style. The range features coats, jackets, tops, skirts, shorts, dresses and blouses with a slight retro slant and fun attitude.

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MARIE SIXTINE French brand Marie Sixtine is a knitwear label with a distinctly tongue-in-cheek and fun approach. The brand offers extremely soft knitwear with a trendy and creative design direction, using high-quality fabrics such as cashmere, organic cotton, modal and wool.

All items are perfumed with patchouli, with around 100 pieces available in each collection twice a year, with flash ranges also available in between.

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SCOOP CELEBRATES BELGIAN FASHION This season, Scoop International is hosting an exclusive Belgian Gallery, presenting some of the finest labels to come out of the country, which is famed for being a hotbed of creative fashion talent. Among the labels on show are Sandrina Fasoli, Essentiel, Rue Blanche, Orane & Enora and Nathalie Vleeschouwer, covering clothing, footwear and accessories. Join the WWB team on Monday 9 July for the Scoop party, kicking off at 6.30pm in the Gallery Café, and sample some Belgian beer and Belflair Belgian chocolates. The evening will be rounded off by Emily Rawson from Rock The Belles and Compuphonic from Belgium, who will be DJing on the night.

EMA OH Accessories brand Ema Oh uses recycled and vintage items in alternative ways, using fabrics such as silk twill, flannel, leather and precious metal to create innovative and unusual pieces. Launched in 2010 as a jewellery line, Ema Oh has grown into a comprehensive range of bags, scarves, belts, hats and more.

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FIRST GLANCE AT MODA 12-14 AUGUST NEC BIRMINGHAM

INFORMATION — Check out moda-uk.co.uk for up-to-date exhibitor information, latest signings, news and Moda Community, the show’s new interactive business portal.

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CARACTÈRE

ROCKET DOG

HOBO

Caractère is the latest international name to join the Moda Woman line-up, bringing its s/s 13 collection to the show for the first time. The Italian brand, which is part of the Miroglio Group portfolio, offers exclusive design and contemporary styling, and can be found in some of the best indies and department stores across the globe. The collection offers a lively mix of occasionwear and daywear outfits, with vivid prints and an elegant colour scheme forming the basis for this season’s range.

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A Moda Footwear regular, Rocket Dog returns once again with a fun collection that delivers everything from retro heels through casual flats to flip-flops and boots. The collection embraces colour blocking for maximum impact and retro silhouettes. Look out for bold prints alongside stripes, polka dots and cute daisy patterns.

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Making its Moda debut, handbag label Hobo unveils a new collection of leathers for the new season. Distributed through Mojo Agencies in the UK, the family run US label introduces a more structured and professional range in a high-gloss smooth finish with its Essential collection, comprising styles in the brand’s signature vintage leather.

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WITH WOMENSWEAR, FOOTWEAR, LINGERIE & SWIMWEAR AND ACCESSORIES ALL UNDER ONE ROOF, MODA IS A MUST ON THE UK TRADE SHOW CALENDAR. THIS SEASON ONCE AGAIN BOASTS A HIGH QUALITY MIX OF BRANDS AND NEW SIGNINGS. WWB TAKES A SNEAK PEAK AT NEXT MONTH’S SHOW. — INFORMATION — Don’t miss Moda’s high-profile seminar programme, offering practical advice on a variety of pressing business and retail topics.

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SENCE COPENHAGEN

PASSPORT

CREENSTONE

Debuting in the UK this season, Danish label Sence Copenhagen uncovers a range of jewellery at Moda Accessories, targeting the young fashion market. Crafted from semiprecious stones and comprising styles in both metals and leather, the range takes inspiration from its Scandinavian roots while carving out its own identity as a directional brand.

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German brand Passport is returning to Moda for the second time after its successful debut last season. For s/s 13, the label favours an overall cleaner direction, but offset by a vibrant colour palette with bold aqua shades and greens among the dominating tones. Prints also play an important role, and can be found as dramatic statement prints or subtle accents, making for another versatile and contemporary collection from the popular brand.

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Dutch outerwear brand Creenstone is making its Moda Woman debut this season with a collection that offers innovative design teamed with high-quality fabrics. Creenstone’s distinctive silhouettes and unique signature put the spotlight on outerwear as a fashion statement and not just as a functional item, with new twists on traditional jackets and coats. This season’s range offers lightweight fabrics and a mix of bright and neutral colours.

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MODA 12-14 AUGUS NEC BIRMIN INFORMATION — Frequent catwalk shows take place throughout the three-day event and give a great overview of all key trends.

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SIMCLAN

SEASALT

COCOROSE

German brand Simclan is showing its collection at Moda for the first time, offering an explosion of colours, with fresh, bright lime and intense emerald sitting alongside tangerine, violet and rose pink. The versatile range encompasses everything from tunics, blouses and shirt to jackets, dresses, skirts and leather accessories, and offers vast opportunities for layering and mixing and matching.

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The Isle of Sicily has inspired Cornish womenswear brand Seasalt’s s/s 13 collection.

Organic cotton features heavily, with lightweight denim skirts, dresses and tops key.

New this season is the introduction of slim-fit jeans and an array of accessories. Prints include florals and nautical stripes, while a muted, sun-bleached colour palette forms sophisticated contrasts that will have strong commercial appeal.

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London brand Cocorose is showcasing its Classic Elegance Leather collection at Moda Footwear.

The new range focuses on the use of texture, including highlights such as soft sheep’s leather, scaled fish skin and soft pony hair. The colour palette includes metallic jewelled shades of champagne, purple, green and blue, as well as dalmatian and leopard prints.

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87 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

PREVIEW —

ST NGHAM INFORMATION — You can pre-register and plan your visit online at moda-uk.co.uk.

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SMITH & CANOVA

KATE COOPER

TIMEZONE

British accessories label Smith & Canova returns to Moda with its latest collection of leather bags for both women and men. The brand also unveils the latest line from its sister label, Claudia Canova, revealing an extensive range of on-trend styles in synthetic finishes.

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The brand is returning to Moda after an absence of a number of years, showcasing its latest range of contemporary occasion and dressy daywear styles. Pink and coral are important shades in the colour palette, while subtle florals in delicate pastel shades form the backdrop for elegant dresses. Polka dots also feature, with dress styles ranging from straight A-lines, through floaty swing-styles to elegant shift versions.

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Beach lifestyle label Timezone is making its first Moda appearance this season as part of Flip, the event’s new urban street and action sports extension. Established in Berlin in 1993, the street and sportswear brand targets real people in every timezone with its range of apparel and footwear for men and women. The women’s footwear collection focuses on wedges for the new season, while the men’s range sees chukka boots play a key role with contrast colour detailing for laces and soles.

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88 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

RETAIL DIARY I opened my shop on 27 March. So far, trading has been going well and everything is positive.

Now I am planning my buying schedule for next season – Moda, Scoop International, Pure London and showrooms in Manchester and London are on my list – but I will continue to be cautious on my forward buying. I am particularly reluctant to commit to too many coats as they are so weather-sensitive and expensive. Across everything, I have got to look for quality, not quantity, of stock.

I worked at two stores in Tarporley for nine years, and I was involved with the buying for the last four of those. After many years of thinking about launching my own store, last October I finally decided to go for it when a unit came up on the high street. I think I know what the ladies in the village need and like, so I am stocking brands such as Avoca, Crew Clothing, Nougat, Postcard from Brighton, Soaked in Luxury and Sugarhill Boutique. I also have accessories and jewellery, which have been selling well. I want to offer things that can be worn during the day and dressed up for the evening. My price range is £50-£100 for dresses and £30-£60 for tops. People are very price-conscious in the current climate.

I am cost-conscious, too, so I’m pleased I joined FAB. My previous employers recommended that I sign up. I liked the sound of being part of a network of like-minded people and having good support to call on as a new business. What’s been most impressive so far are the rates for credit and debit card transactions. The FAB deal was half what I had been offered on my own, and I am looking forward to using some of the other benefits, too. I recommend any new, or indeed, established, businesses to join.

Over the three months of The Wardrobe being open, it’s clear that people are still spending, but the trading patterns have been up and down.

It is hard to predict what each day will bring. I obviously know lots of people to spread the word, and I have distributed flyers to hairdressers, bars, spas and restaurants in a 20-mile radius.

Of course, it’s early days, but I am pleased to have finally opened my own shop and I enjoy being part of this fabulous fashion business.

Samantha Carr is owner of The Wardrobe in Tarporley, Cheshire, and a member of FAB.

FORUM —

RETAIL FORUM

The latest news from the industry —

BRIGHTON RUNS FASHION WEEK

Image by Adam Catling www.adamcatling.co.uk

BASKA HOSTS GRADUATE FASHION SHOW

Brighton was the place to be last month when it hosted its annual Fashion Week. The event kicked off with an Arabian-themed launch party followed by three catwalk shows over a series of days.

The Brighton Frocks Catwalk Show was a theatrical display of colour, concept and movement, with Celia Arias opening the show with a visual narrative acted out by puppets. The event saw a variety of designs and styles including Waterworks’ wearable art range from recycled products. The event finished with a 50s-themed closing party, marking the end of a fun-filled fashion week.

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Independent Cambridge boutique Baska exhibited the collections of two fashion design graduates from Anglia Ruskin University in-store last month after being impressed by their collections.

The five-day event showcased the designs of Polish-born Kasia Juzak and Chinese designer Minghui Yu, and was followed by the students’ graduate fashion show, which was a great success for the talented young designers, whose creativity has been inspired by a spectrum of artistic movements and famous historical personae.

“Our promotion of the young talents has been received with enthusiasm by our customers, and has increased interest in Baska as one of the most exciting fashion destinations in Cambridge,” says Baska Dunaj, owner of Baska. “We are looking forward to new inspiring collaborations with students in the future.”

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HAVE YOU OPENED A NEW STORE, LAUNCHED A TRANSACTIONAL WEBSITE, ORGANISED AN EVENT OR HAVE ANY OTHER IN-STORE NEWS? THEN LET US KNOW BY GETTING IN TOUCH AT CAREY@RAS-PUBLISHING.COM.

© Aris Vrakas, designer Jess Eaton

© Aris Vrakas, designer Walterworks

89 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

FORUM —

WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR IN YOUR S/S 13 BUYING?

LA VIDA CELEBRATES RELAUNCH Independent boutique La Vida has relaunched at its new premises in Horsham.

The relaunch was celebrated with a fashion evening last month, with live models presenting the store’s latest collections followed by a cocktail evening at local restaurant Wabi. “The move has allowed us to showcase our unique collections of fashion and eveningwear on one beautiful floor,” says owner Donna Camera, who started the business in 1999. Four months ago, Camera moved the shop to a more prominent location, which has since attracted new customers and seen an increase in Sunday trading.

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We ask four retailers this month’s hot question

INDIE SUPPORTS CANCER CHARITY Last month, independent retailer Boudoir Femme hosted an event for Time for T, the national fundraising campaign run by Teenage Cancer Trust.

Boudoir Femme donated 10 per cent of its sales from Selected Femme and donations from tea and cupcakes to the charity to improve the lives of young people with cancer. “We are really pleased by how well the day went and the money we have raised for Teenage Cancer Trust,” says owner Pippa Sandison. “Thank you to the local community for supporting us, and we look forward to getting involved again next year.”

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MY FAVOURITE SHOP...

LN-CC

By Jeane Chung, founder, Bielle

ANNABEL MOUNT-KIRK Owner and buyer, The Editeur, Chester — I will be looking for beautiful colours and nature prints. We don’t tend to get much summer weather in Scotland so I will be looking for feminine dresses with vintage direction that can be used for summer parties, weddings or to brighten up the work wardrobe.

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18 Shacklewell Lane Dalston, London E8 Creative director: John Skelton Opened: November 2010 Key brands: Haider Ackermann, Givenchy, JW Anderson, Kolor, Dries Van Noten, Sacai, Jil Sander, Junya Watanabe “These days, anything with E8 in its post code looks promising. An appointment-only retailer, LN-CC offers the most interesting experience in terms of clothes shopping. Located in a basement, the vast concept store consists of seven different rooms, selling fashion, music and books. The tunnel after the entrance that leads you to the main rooms looks bizarre with its neon lights, and you feel like you’re walking into a spaceship. The selection of clothing is avant-garde and pricey but, if you like limited-edition and rare vinyls and prints, you would think you’d gone to heaven.”

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BECKIE KINGSLEY Owner, Ginger, Norwich — We will be looking for classic, timeless pieces with a modern twist.

As some of our labels are fun and quirky, we will be searching for more labels along these lines. The big investments for us will be adding a range of good quality classic basics, everyday wear and eveningwear.

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— In particular, I will be looking for occasion dresses with the wow-factor, and easy dresses that can be worn day to night and season to season. I am also looking to expand our footwear and accessories offer with designers such as Rachael Ruddick and Rebecca Minkoff.

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KARINA BALDORF Owner, Kakao by K, Edinburgh — We want to offer products that are exciting and different but what I like to call “guilt-free”, meaning the item will be a classic in the customer’s wardrobe.

We’ll be looking for investment pieces that have longevity.

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ADRIANA GREEN Owner, Scarecrow Boutique, London

91 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

EXPERTS —

ADVICE Industry experts answer your retail questions —

HOW CAN I APPROACH OMNI-CHANNEL RETAILING?

HOW CAN MUSIC BOOST THE SHOPPING EXPERIENCE?

Inevitably, the evolution of omni-channel retailing goes hand-in-hand with the economic climate. As we know too well, there have been a number of retail casualties of late and, for surviving retailers – in particular smaller chains or independents – economic pressures are apparent. While I would advise retailers to invest in omni-channel developments, brands must obviously work within their budgets.

While music has always been an important part of the independent retail sector, we are now witnessing major changes in consumer tastes and expectations; music and related multimedia driven by technological advances are now able to enhance the customer experience in a new way.

At one end of the spectrum, we’ve spoken to retailers who have not yet embarked on their mobile strategy and are still trading via traditional bricks and mortar stores or on the web. At the other, we’re working with customers at the forefront of the omni-channel customer experience and who merged their channel strategies over the course of 2011. In either case, if a retailer has more than one purchasing channel, they should be aiming to enable consumers to begin their product research using one channel, and make their purchase using another.

Behind the scenes, some of our clients are joining up their fulfilment options and making their stock and inventory work hard.

They are enabling the customer to make a purchase on the web that might not be fulfilled from the distribution centre (DC). If the DC is not holding the product in stock, it is instead fulfilled from store. In my opinion, this is a great example of omni-channel and best practice for other retailers. We have also seen some clients moving away from fixed tills and trialling tablet technology. If retailers can secure the budget, I would strongly recommend it, as tablets can give an added level of personal interaction with the customer.

Over the past 12-24 months, we’ve seen multichannel retailing become more commonplace, allowing customers to use different channels on their purchasing journey. Today, the buzz is omni-channel, and is all about the customer shopping the brand as opposed to shopping the channel. Omni-channel can make this happen, so has a lot to offer the independent retailer. A consistent brand and shopping experience can be provided regardless of the channel chosen.

If a retailer gets omni-channel right, there are clear financial benefits to be gained. A client of ours who has enabled fulfilment from stores as well as via the DC for web purchases attributes a 20 per cent sales uplift on a like-for-like basis in the eight weeks before Christmas 2011 to this new approach. This is a significant return on investment, and one that justifies the initial capital outlay. So do your homework and start to make your plans. Omni-channel retailing is here to stay.

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Fashion retailers understand the power of music not just to create the right vibe for the store, but to use music and multimedia as a tool to engage with customers; a vehicle to drive both traffic and purchases.

Increasingly, they are turning to professionals to help them develop these strategies and confront the challenge of negotiating the licences required to broadcast music in a public place.

In music, one size no longer fits all. It is now possible to invest in bespoke playlists to enable retailers to create an atmosphere that is designed to connect with their demographic. For instance, while chart music has traditionally been popular, younger audiences are increasingly being influenced by emerging artists, while established artists are often used for “memory evoking” to support specific campaigns.

Preconfigured playlists are available as a more affordable option; businesses such as PlayNetwork have developed downloadable playlists through a system called PlayMix, featuring a wide range of professionally profiled music mixes from classical to modern soul and UK chart. Playlists are updated monthly so the music remains fresh, and there are a wide variety of tempos on offer. Once the playlists have been developed, they can be distributed across custom-programmed music channels, making it easy for staff to switch between them for different times of day, or to support a specific promotion. For stores with no hardware or limited space, the PoS system, which generally has lots of unused hard disk and RAM, can now also be used as the music platform, once it has been integrated with the software.

Audio Visual Systems can now be fully integrated with the store’s network, facilitating shared backbone infrastructure and network equipment, which can significantly reduce systems costs.

Typically, this has seen the emergence of systems that combine music, lighting and video, as retailers use integrated multimedia design and technology solutions to deliver core brand messages, manage promotions and engage consumers. At this level, retailers are collaborating around their mutual desire to understand their needs, enabling them to get the offer right first time, but with sufficient flexibility to adapt to change.

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Andy Tudor, head of multichannel solutions, Retail Assist.

Visit www.retail-assist.co.uk or email andy.tudor@retail-assist.co.uk.

Dharmendra Patel, managing director, PlayNetwork EMEA. Visit www.playnetwork.eu or call 020 3195 0979.

92 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

DIRECTORY —

CARRIER BAGS

HAT BOXES

MANNEQUINS

T-SHIRT

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STEAMERS AND IRONS

GARMENT LABELS

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To advertise please call Mina on

01484 846069 or email mina@ras-publishing.com

To advertise please call Mina on

HEADWEAR

01484 846069 or email mina@ras-publishing.com

WANTED

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HANGERS To advertise please call Mina on

Arctic Fox • Hats • Gloves Scarves • Sunglasses • Ski Goggles Tel: 01923 210646 Fax: 01923 210647 Email: info@bullseyeinternation.co.uk

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           

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93 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

DIRECTORY —

AGENTS WANTED

A ladies special occasion wear fashion house with a growing worldwide reputation for quality and excellence, based in Borehamwood, Hertfordshire is looking for a person experienced in sales to grow their UK and Ireland accounts.

Contact: E: careers@dynastyuk.co.uk T: 020 8736 0201 www.dynastyuk.co.uk

FOOTWEAR

To advertise please call Mina on

01484 846069 or email mina@ras-publishing.com

NAMES AND NUMBERS Airfield 020 7287 2443 www.parkersfashion.com Alex Monroe 020 7378 6061 www.alexmonroe.com Annette Goertz 020 7436 0701 www.annettegoertz.com Apanage 020 7636 7111 www.apanage.de All Beautiful 01626 879998 www.enjoy-fashion.fr Bandolera 07769 700037 www.bandolera.com Betty Barclay 020 7580 3577 www.bettybarclay.co.uk Bielle 020 7831 9163 www.bielle.co.uk Bourne 01482 334590 www.bournecollection.com By Malina 0046 708390604 www.bymalina.com Caractere 020 7631 4777 www.caractere.it Charli 020 8440 1321 www.charli.co.uk Creenstone 020 7436 1701 www.creenstone.com Chianti 0845 345 1914 www.chiantistyle.co.uk Dagmar www.houseofdagmar.se Darling 020 7636 6868 www.darlingclothes.com Day Birger et Mikkelsen www.day.dk Dower & Hall 020 7819 9047 www.dowerandhall.com Des Petits Hauts 07958 735872 www.despetitshauts.com Didier Parakian 020 7436 1701 www.didierparakian.com Doris Streich 020 7636 9140 www.dorisstreich.de Elisa Cavaletti 07876 333397 www.elisacavaletti.com Esprit 020 7406 1400 www.esprit.co.uk Eucalyptus 020 7740 6323 www.eucalyptusclothing.co.uk Eugen Klein 020 7636 5477 www.eugenklein.com Elena Miro 020 7631 4777 www.elenamiro.com Emreco 0141 4241914 www.emreco.com Erfo 020 7636 4207 www.erfo.com Epicea 0161 238 8570 www.essentialcollections.net Faber 020 7636 9140 www.faber.de Fei Liu 0121 233 1299 www.feiliu.co.uk Frank Walder 020 7636 4207 www.frankwalder.com Fransa 020 7636 9060 www.fransa.com Gardeur 0049 52413076194 www.gardeur.de Gelco 020 7580 3202 www.gelco.de Georgede 020 7636 9140 www.georgede.com Godske 020 7636 3063 www.godske.com Habella 020 7636 3063 www.godske.com Hauber 020 7323 6100 www.hauber-collection.de House of Harlow 020 7349 8887 www.houseofharlow1960.com I blues 020 7580 5075 www.iblues.it Ichi 020 7436 8332 www.ichi.biz Ilse Jacobsen 0045 31527795 www.ilsejacobsen.dk Insight 0033 0559238719 www.insight51.com In Wear www.inwear.com James Lakeland 020 7636 7130 www.jameslakeland.net Jeepers Peepers 020 7724 7238 www.jeeperspeepers.co.uk Jorli 020 7636 3063 www.godske.com Joules 01858 435261 www.joulesclothing.co.uk Kirsten 020 7636 4207 www.kirsten-mode.com Konplott 07834 193989 www.konplott.com Lavenham 01787 379535 www.lavenhamjackets.com Latte 041 204 0699 www.premierfashions.co.uk Les Fées Du Vent 0161 238 8570 www.essentialcollections.net Les Néréides 020 7379 9197 www.lesnereides.com Lepel 0115 983 6000 www.lepel.co.uk Luisa Cerano 020 7323 6101 www.luisacerano.com Mac 020 7636 7111 www.mac-mode.com Marc Aurel 0049 52419450 www.marc-aurel.com Marc Cain 0049 74717090 www.marc-cain.com Marcona 020 7291 0537 www.marcona.de Marina Rinaldi 020 7580 5075 www.marinarinaldi.com Michele 020 7636 4207 www.michele.de Mih Jeans 020 7349 9030 www.mih-jeans.com Moontide 01209 314883 www.moontide.com Olivia Rubin 020 7491 1430 www.oliviarubinlondon.com Passport 020 7580 3202 www.passport-fashion.de Pause Café 0161 238 8570 www.essentialcollections.net Pennyblack 020 7436 1701 www.pennyblack.com People Tree 020 7042 8900 www.peopletr ee.co.uk Pomodoro 020 8961 4000 www.pomodoroclothing.com Prey of London 020 7488 1380 www.preyoflondon.com Qneel 020 7636 3063 www.godske.com Ravel 01706 212512 Refa 020 7636 3063 www.godske.com Rene Lezard 020 7436 1701 www.renelezard.com Robell 020 7636 3063 www.godske.com Rodgers & Rodgers 01246 555228 www.rodgersandrodgers.com Rocket Dog 020 8207 7200 www.rocketdog.co.uk Ruby Rocks 07973 718301 www.rubyrocks.com Sem Per Lei 0049 2111718050 www.semperlei.de Sonya Bennett 01373 465221 www.sonyabennettjewellery.com Steilmann 020 7291 0520 www.steilmann.com Sugarhill Boutique 01273 911393 www.sugarhillboutique.com Strawberry Bay 0141 424 1914 www.strawberrybay.co.uk Sunseeker 020 7636 7058 www.sunseekerswimwear.com The Style 020 8838 5979 Trapper Queens 020 7636 3400 www.trapperqueens.de Tru Luxe 1626 879998 www.truluxejeans.com Twist & Tango 0046 31128110 www.twisttango.com Vero Moda 020 3205 0315 www.veromoda.com Vila 020 3205 0312 www.vila.com Volcom www.volcom.com Winter Kate 020 7349 8887 www.winterkate.com Yumi 020 8961 2299 www.yumidirect.co.uk Zoe Jordan 020 7352 8868 www.zoe-jordan.com UbU 01626 879998 www.carolccollections.com Un Point C’est Tout 0161 238 8570 www.essentialcollecions.net Vero Moda 020 3205 0312 www.veromoda.com Yumi 020 8961 2299 www.yumidirect.co.uk

94 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2012

THE FINAL WORD —

WHO OR WHAT MAKES YOU CRY? This month’s panel reveals what brings a tear to their eye.

—

CORRIE NIELSEN Designer, Corrie Nielsen — “What makes me cry is a series of photographs and a poem called Love and Sorrow that my father sent me a long time ago. The poem is by Dennis Shoemaker; the photographer unknown.”

—

KIM MCKELLAR Designer, Abide

— “Watching The Secret Millionaire.

It is a guaranteed tear-jerker for me.

I always cry when the money is handed out to the chosen people.”

—

JOANNE STOKER Designer, Joanne Stoker — “Baz Luhrmann’s Moulin Rouge has always been one of my favourite films – I love the glitz and glamour – but I'm always in floods of tears by the end of it. It’s a truly amazing film, but so sad.”

—

KAT MACONIE Designer, Kat Maconie — “I cry more now with happiness than sadness.

I wrote a big order for an amazing Japanese customer in my second season of existence and I was so overwhelmed and happy to be selling to them, tears of joy rolled down my face, smudging the ink on the order pad.

The buyer thought I was barking mad!”

—

ERIKA SHAW Head designer, Lovestruck — “It has to be onions. Every time I start chopping them, the tears start flowing!”

—

AMY MOLYNEAUX Co-founder, PPQ

— “My business partner, Percy, makes me cry with laughter. He has a very dry sense of humour.”

—

W W W. J A C K P O T. D K