Issue 196 October/ November 2012 ÂŁ6.95 mwb-online.co.uk
Destination Denham Paul Drew on the future of denim label Denham Utter jeanius Profiling denim specialist Utter Nutter Go shorty The short-order products to get in-store now + Drake’s London/ Other Shop/ Opinion/ Denim Demon
Putting the focus on the denim market, highlighting the hottest names for s/s 13 and discovering what the seasons ahead have in store
DENIM MATTERS
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Contents
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29 Retail p10 Retail news The latest in-store news p12 Opinion How denim is performing in-store p16 Is your stock past its sell-by date? Retail expect Thierry Bale explains how retailers can keep fresh goods coming in without Denim and street p34 losing cash Ones to watch The MWB pick of the brands to watch this month p35 Gent In-season ideas p20 Ones to watch The key trends to top-up The MWB pick of the brands on this autumn and where to to watch this month find them p21 p37 In-season ideas Sole makes a stand The key trends to top-up Martyn Sole on bringing on this autumn in our Peaceful Hooligan back to life p39 short-order special Denim forecast p26 Other things to do Finding out what the future MWB profiles new store has in store for the denim Other Shop sector p29 p44 Artisans in the East End Romford nutty about denim Discovering the secrets behind Profiling denim specialist Drake’s London Utter Nutter
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Regulars p05 Comment p06 News p14 Interview/Paul Drew p48 People p50 The Bottomley Line p54 Q&A/Oskar Sommarlund Front cover: Duck and Cover Contact 020 8453 1668
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Comment Last month, I attended a conference by the Association of Suppliers to the British Clothing Industry (ASBCI) on the future of manufacturing in the UK. Speakers at the event included Ian Sime of J Barbour & Sons, Fashion Enter’s Jenny Holloway and James Dracup of Johnstons of Elgin.
Editor Victoria Jackson/ victoria@ras-publishing.com Deputy editor Tom Bottomley/ tom.bottomley@btinternet.com Contributors Isabella Griffiths/ isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner/ laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams/ christina@ras-publishing.com Online editor Suzanna Bain/ suzanna@ras-publishing.com Fashion writer Natalie Dawson/ natalie@ras-publishing.com Sub editor Amanda Batley/ amanda@ras-publishing.com Editorial assistant Carey Whitwam/ carey.whitwam@ite-exhibitions.com Designers Clive Holloway/ clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley/ james@ras-publishing.com Michael Podger/ michael@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle/ richard@ras-publishing.com Sales manager Lauren Cooley/ lauren@ras-publishing.com Subscriptions Katie Brook/ katie@ras-publishing.com Production director Gill Brabham/ gill@ras-publishing.com Commercial director Nick Cook/ nick@ras-publishing.com Marketing director Stephanie Parker/ stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk Managing director Colette Tebbutt/ colette@ras-publishing.com
MWB is published 11 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2012 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication. Reprographics/printing/ Image Colourprint Ltd 01482 652323
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During the conference, Michael Spenley, head of corporate responsibility at online retailer Shop Direct Group, looked at how ethical UK manufacturing is today. While in the prime of UK manufacturing ago ethics were the norm, Spenley discussed how, on visiting manufacturing factories in the UK in the past couple of years, he has not only witnessed poor working conditions but also underpaid staff with little enthusiasm for the job they carry. But it was a comment later that day from Jenny Holloway, founder of apprenticeship initiative Fashion Enter, that struck home: “Everybody wants to be the designer; nobody wants to make the clothes.” So what can be done to try and revive British manufacturing? With a definite lack of specialist training and skills in the UK, Holloway explained how Fashion Enter offers fashion and textiles apprenticeship programmes, with students going on to work at the likes of online retailer Asos, department store House of Fraser and fashion retailer New Look. Realising the need for manufacturing skills in the UK, Ian Sime, director of supply chain at iconic British clothing label Barbour, explained how the brand opened the Barbour Academy earlier this year in conjunction with Hartlepool College in South Shields. Offering a study and learning programmes for those looking for a career in the textile or manufacturing industry, each student enrolled on the pre-employment courses is offered a guaranteed interview with Barbour when their studies come to an end. Despite the many obvious challenges facing manufacturing in the UK, which include high commodity prices and an ageing workforce, the
overall outcome of the conference was positive. Points raised included the fact that UK factories can reach quicker lead times, they can be more reactive to trends, problems can be dealt with at a faster rate, bestsellers can be replenished much sooner than offshore manufacturing and, last but not least, more jobs can be created in this country, thus channelling money back into our economy. And even as budgets are squeezed, the need for quality, long-lasting product is more prevalent than ever before. Although the trend for fast fashion is still rife, James Dracup, group MD of Scottish knitwear company Johnstons of Elgin, explained that a commitment to quality, bespoke manufacturing and excellent service means truly British-made clothing is wanted and needed both here and overseas. To quote Winston Churchill, as Dracup did during his speech, “Success is not final, failure is not fatal, ’tis the courage to continue that counts.” Victoria Jackson Editor
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Twentieth store opening for Charles Tyrwhitt Shirt specialist Charles Tyrwhitt is set to open its 20th retail outlet on Glasgow’s Buchanan Street, following continued strong sales and an increase in customer numbers. Opening on 8 November, the new space will be the second in Scotland, following the opening of a Charles Tyrwhitt store in Edinburgh in 2011, and will create around 12 new positions in the company. Comprising 2,705 sq ft – 1,200 sq ft of which makes up the retail floor – the store joins the brand’s retail portfolio including London’s
Jermyn Street (pictured) and Holborn High Street, Washington and New York’s Madison Avenue. Charles Tyrwhitt is Britain’s biggest mail-order shirt company with sales of over £100m, and is currently concentrating on a store roll-out programme across the high street. “Our aim is to open a small number of prestigious stores in the very best locations,” says founder Nick Wheeler. “There is a real appetite for our products in Scotland, and we wanted to ensure our loyal customers in Glasgow had a store to call their own. “We are proud of our traditions and want to increase our visibility on the high street as well as ensure out online customers have an enjoyable shopping experience.”
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High street sales boosted by cold weather Like-for-like sales increased by 3.5 per cent during September – their fastest rise so far this year – following cold weather and an early start to autumn. According to figures from accountancy network BDO’s high street sales tracker, the rise follows a 0.5 per cent fall in trading in August and a 2.9 per cent dip in July. The increase in September is set to mark a positive start for the run-up to Christmas, despite a
number of retailers falling into administration this year, including fashion store Peacocks and outdoor retailer Blacks Leisure. Don Williams, head of retail and wholesale at BDO, advised it was too early to call the end of the recession, as the latest figures stand against weak figures last year, when retail sales fell more than five per cent. “This was the first time this year that we have seen an interesting increase,” he says. “People are treating themselves to clothes or bags, but they are deferring spending on homeware, and making do with that uncomfortable sofa or old mattress for a little longer.” According to Williams, the BDO is expecting retail figures to be up around 1.5-2 per cent this year, while sales over the internet continue to grow. Online sales had increased by 32 per cent in September and have been growing at rates consistently between 15 and 40 percent each month.
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Asos appoints Brian McBride as chair
Asos autumn/winter 2012 campaign
Online retailer Asos has appointed former Amazon MD Brian McBride as its new chair. McBride succeeds Lord Waheed Ali, who steps down from his role on 1 November after 12 years with the company. “Brian is joining Asos at an exciting time, as we continue to internationalise the business and march towards our target of £1bn sales per annum,” says Nick Robertson, CEO, Asos. “He has a wealth of relevant experience, not only in e-commerce and technology but in fast-growth international businesses,” he continues. “I am delighted to welcome Brian to the board, and look forward to working with him during this next chapter of the Asos story.”
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H&M accelerates store opening roll-out
Dockers appoints new president
Fashion retailer H&M has increased the number of stores it plans to open this year, from 275 to 300. The group recently reported flat pre-tax profits at £466m in its third quarter to the end of August, falling short of expectations of around £505.5m. It follows news that the Swedish retailer has delayed the launch of its US e-commerce site with a revised deadline of summer 2013. H&M chief executive Karl-Johan Persson cited issues such as security and logistics for the delay, explaining it was taking much longer than initially expected. “With our size in the US, it is a complex IT set-up,” says Persson. “When we enter the US market, we want to do it in a good way.” Persson revealed the group would also launch apps for mobile shopping at the start of 2013, with China the next market considered for the e-commerce programme roll-out.
Levi Strauss & Co recently announced the appointment of Seth Ellison as president of global lifestyle brand Dockers. With more than 30 years’ experience in the fashion industry, including president of swimwear group Perry Ellis and vice president general manager of Emea Apparel, Ellison will be responsible for managing the strategic direction, marketing and product development of the Dockers brand. “Seth has a proven track record of driving growth in the apparel industry, growing both large, established brands and start-ups,” says Chip Bergh, president and chief executive officer of Dockers’ parent company, Levi Strauss & Co. “Seth’s business acumen is the perfect complement to the design, marketing and product talent that is re-energising the Dockers brand today.”
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My-Wardrobe welcomes new appointments Online fashion retailer My-Wardrobe.com has announced the appointment of Nicola Copping as editor-in-chief and Joanna Stephenson as trading director, with the newly created roles designed to ensure the business is able to take advantage of the growth of online fashion. Copping joins My-Wardrobe.com to oversee the editorial and creative direction of the brand, developing the e-commerce site’s cross-platform editorial content including seasonal style guides and photography-led features. Stephenson, meanwhile, will take up the position of trading director from her previous role in digital marketing at Debenhams, where she oversaw the development of the online marketing channel.
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Shareholders rebel against SuperGroup’s Julian Dunkerton Almost one in five investors of fashion retailer SuperGroup have voted against the re-election of co-founder Julian Dunkerton as chief executive, following the company’s annual general meeting. More than 18 per cent of votes were cast against Dunkerton, while 17 per cent opposed the election of Susanne Given as the new chief operating officer. And although neither held the majority vote, it highlights the unease felt among shareholders. Given was singled out after her package was said to include a £350,000 base salary, £1.1m shares in the company and a guaranteed bonus of £350,000 for 2013.
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International success for Ted Baker British clothing label Ted Baker has reported a 15 per cent rise in first-half revenue, helped by strong sales in the US. US retail sales were up 53 per cent to $25.6m, while sales in the UK and Europe rose 7.9 per cent. “We have delivered good results in a challenging environment while making important investments for the long-term development of the brand such as new store openings in Tokyo and New York’s Fifth Avenue,” says founder and chief executive Ray Kelvin. Jaana Jätyri, chief executive of fashion trend forecaster Trendstop, added, “Ted Baker has side-stepped the slump many high street shops are experiencing by refusing to discount early, which serves to strengthen its full-price offer. Launching into new markets such as North America, Hong Kong, China and Japan, where British heritage and quality are revered, has been pivotal to Ted Baker’s strategy.”
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Shop vacancy rates stabilise
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Over two thousand jobs lost in JJB bail out Following the acquisition of sports chain JJB by retailer Sports Direct, 133 stores were closed earlier this month with a total of 2,200 jobs axed. Only 550 posts were saved, as 20 outlets, the brand and website were bought by Mike Ashley’s Sports Direct. Ashley, who owns Newcastle United FC, has bought the Slazenger Golf brand licenses, JJB Sports’ freehold property in Wigan and all stock in the business. “It’s a sad day,” says Dave Whelan, who founded JJB in 1971 and sold it as a £1bn business five years ago. “I’m sorry to see so many people lose their jobs. “I think the brand will get put into the background because, no doubt, Mike Ashley will be buying it to stop anyone else using it,” he continues. “It does sound like he’s got a bargain. Everyone on the high street has competition, but JJB Sports should have been able to deal with it.” Richard Fleming, head of restructuring at professional services provider KPMG, says, “We will now be reviewing what options are available for the remainder of the business, such as selling the leasehold interests.”
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Shop vacancy rates increased by a marginal 0.04 per cent in August, according to recent figures by the Local Data Company (LDC). The number of vacant shops in the top 650 town centres in Britain currently stands at 23,258, edging up to 14.58 per cent from 14.54 per cent. “The national shop vacancy continues to hover around the 14.5 per cent mark, which is encouraging,” says Matthew Hopkinson, director at the LDC. “With quarter rent day upon us, and talk of more retailers in difficulty, how long will this remain? For example, if all the JJB Sports stores in Britain were to become vacant, this would only see a rise in 0.08 per cent of the vacancy rate.”
COS founder Rebekka Boy joins Gap Global speciality retailer Gap Inc has appointed Rebekka Bay as its new creative director and executive vice president for Gap Global Design. Bay is expected to revamp the brand, concentrating on product sold online and in its 1,600 stores located in 42 countries worldwide. She will be responsible for the label’s womenswear, menswear, accessories and Body lines. “We’ve taken the time to identify the right creative leader for Gap, and we’ve found it in Rebekka,” says Stephen Sunnucks, president, Gap Inc international. “We’re confident that her approach to design, along with her considerable international experience, will allow her to help us build on the momentum we’re delivering in the business today.”
Alexander McQueen showcases a/w 13 men’s collection in London Alexander McQueen is to showcase its mainline menswear range at London Collections: Men in January. The latest high-profile name to join the official schedule along with the likes of Tom Ford menswear, Alexander McQueen has moved from Milan where it has shown for the past eight years. “It’s great to be showing our menswear mainline as part of London Collections: Men, especially with London being the home of Alexander McQueen and our first dedicated menswear store opening on Savile Row this autumn,” says Jonathan Akeroyd, CEO, Alexander McQueen.
Petit Bateau collaborates with Carven
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Primark unveils Limited Edition men’s line High street chain Primark has launched its first Limited Edition collection for men. The store, known for its bargain prices and catwalk imitations, currently only caters for the female market with its Limited Edition range – a collection of higher priced, fashion-forward designs. With prices ranging from £6 for a jersey tee to £50 for a structured jacket, the new men’s line comprises lumberjack shirts and hardwearing outerwear, drawing inspiration from traditional American workwear.
French fashion brands Petit Bateau and Carven have collaborated on a capsule collection for men, women and children. The range will be available from 4 December in all Petit Bateau stores. Bright colours have been combined with Carven’s elegant shapes to create a perfect set of clothes for boys, girls, women and men. The Petit Bateau and Carven collection can be previewed exclusively at Colette in Paris from 5 November.
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Peregrine becomes latest addition to Lambs Conduit Street Heritage label Peregrine opened its first pop-up shop on London’s Lambs Conduit Street, joining the likes of British labels Nicolas Deakins and Peter Werth. Running on 10-22 September, the space showcased the brand’s autumn/winter 2012 men’s and womenswear collections, as well as signature accessories and shoes provided by Loake. Established in 1956 by the Glover family, Peregrine started life manufacturing and supplying wool jumpers to the British wholesale market, as well as exporting knitwear to America, Europe and Japan. The brand was reintroduced into the market in 2006 by Tom Glover – the eighth generation of the Glover family – with an updated range of classic knitwear and accessories, which are continuing to be made in the UK.
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Bench opens Self Made concept store Manchester’s Northern Quarter was the first destination for British label Bench to launch its new-look concept store designed in conjunction with its brand new Self Made campaign. The Self Made initiative champions young creatives and, through the Bench website, offers successful applicants to showcase and further their skills with prize funding and exposure. Serving as a platform to house the winners of the competition, the Bench concept store also presents exclusive product previously unavailable in the UK. Limited-edition lines and collaboration products are also on offer. Meanwhile, the store’s basement gallery has been designed to serve Manchester’s creative community with Wi-Fi, breakout seating and meeting spaces.
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Franklin & Marshall showcases live art window Italian brand Franklin & Marshall created its first live art window installation last month, celebrating the launch of Harrods’ sportswear floor, the Urban Room. The label welcomed artist Serafino Rudari, who recreated the Franklin & Marshall logo, while spectators watched from behind the glass windows. The unveiling of the Urban Room on the fifth floor of Harrods also included special guest appearances from English boxer and Olympic gold medallist Antony Joshua and English rower and Olympic gold medallist Alex Gregory.
What is the soundtrack to your store? The recent FAB-YBS networking event in London was a great opportunity to hook up with some more independent retailers and suppliers. The venue, a private club in Soho, was a cool location and very appropriate for the audience. Back at our two Javelin stores, reading brand consultant Dave Edgar’s excellent article in last month’s MWB on effective branding for independent fashion retail businesses, gave me reason to give our shops a health check. Independents need to give attention to all the aspects Dave highlighted and more, ascertaining what our store’s brand represents down to the finer details. In this way, we will excite the senses of our customers with the shopping experience we provide, and stand a good chance of retaining their loyalty in spite of the unremitting onslaught from the multiples. The “added value” our brand offers will take the focus away from price-only, as shown by the Selfridges’ model outlined in the article. The richer the experience we provide will also persuade more customers to refrain from the convenient but sterile online option. One vital area highlighted by Dave, and all too often overlooked, is achieving the right music for your store. Critically, he stated that music should be driven by the needs of the customer, not the staff, which seems so obvious but is often overlooked. Where to start? It is a good idea to put yourself in the mindset of the customers in your store and ascertain the genres and volume of the music that will most enhance their shopping experience. Have a good look around at other stores you admire and, when you like something you hear, ask an assistant what is playing, if you don’t know already. At Javelin, we have found that the best solution was to outsource the mix of music to an outside contractor. My wife Joanna and I had stayed at a hotel where they had pitched the music in the various bars and restaurants brilliantly according to the mood and ambience of the setting. The manager happily gave me the details of the company that supplied the soundtrack; Musicstyling.com. We give them several tracks of different genres that define the right sounds, and they come up with the playlist and download it to the music server. We have divided the store into zones and run two playlists, one more upbeat for the younger male and female fashion downstairs and a different one for the more sophisticated women’s first-floor boutique. You don’t have to worry about updating all the time as you can request new tracks are constantly added so the mix remains contemporary. When it comes to Christmas, the percentage of festive tunes is phased in gradually and you can select the appropriate amount of cheesiness! It is so refreshing to walk into the store and not cringe at the choice of music, and we are frequently requested to supply the name and artist of the song playing. Of course, you music buffs can do your own selections and save money, but we are happy that music is now one stress we no longer have. Jeremy Clayton owns the Javelin fashion stores in Bury St Edmunds and Sudbury, Suffolk, and is a member of FAB.
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Opinion
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Opinion With the talk being of a swing back in favour of denim, how is it being realised in-store?
Nigel Binnie, co-owner, Northern Threads and Edit, South Shields
Jonny George, manager/buyer, Elements, Norwich
Adam Cooper, co-owner, American Classics, London
How is denim performing for you right now? Our a/w 12 denim offer has got off to a flyer and we’re showing a 50 per cent sell-through already. We’ve re-ordered three times on Boss Green, Boss Orange and Edwin, and have processed a re-order for Armani Jeans.
How is denim performing for you right now? It’s definitely picked up, but it’s not at the levels of, say, three or four years ago.
How is denim performing for you right now? It’s steady, but there is so much denim available these days. It seems every brand under the sun does a selvedge denim. That kind of choice is confusing people. Although most of it is a far cry from proper Japanese selvedge jeans, from the likes of Sugar Cane or Iron Heart, for example, when people see a selvedge jean for £65, if they’re not connoisseurs or have a real affinity with good denim, they’ll probably go for it. Thankfully, most of our customers are more in the know.
Have you seen a move away from chinos back into denim for your customers? Denim has always been king both in-store and online. But we think our customers are now maybe buying one “special” pair of chinos and getting others from the high street. What price points work the best on denim? Between £80 and £135 works best for us in-store with our customers at Northern Threads. We addressed the cheaper price point when we opened our Edit store, where we stock jeans from £45. Our Dr Denim sales have been the best, and we put that down to the £60 price point. What denim is proving most popular? Clean five-pocket denim and “carrot” or regular fitting jeans are working well. Our bestselling jeans are Edwin ED55, Boss Green Deam jeans, Boss Orange 31 & 25 & Armani J31, which we have sold out of. Dark washes are most popular. We did good numbers on selvedge in the past, but the “buy now wash in six months” line is old hat. The market may need a new G-Star, but it needs to offer something distinctive like a desirable cut, such as the G-Star A crotch or Diesel Larkee five-pocket, which comes in great washes. Evisu also has some great prints. Have you built up a strong following for denim? Yes, it’s our third bestselling commodity in-store and online throughout the year, although sales are not as good as previous years. We put it down to the current economic climate. Is it just jeans, or are you selling more denim jackets or shirts? We’ve tried both denim shirts and jackets, but they only work in small numbers. Customers tend to wait and get them in the sale, so we’ve stopped buying them. We’ll let someone else take the risk. Unless there becomes a huge demand, that’s the way it is.
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Have you seen a move away from chinos back into denim for your customers? Yes. I think the chino look is saturated, especially on the high street. The lads who want to be one step ahead of the rest now swerve away from the chino. What price points work the best on denim? It’s a mixed bag. Some customers won’t go over the magic £100 price tag, and it’s more apparent now with the economy the way it is. In contrast, we still have our regulars that will pay well over £100 for their jeans. Again, I think it’s a trust thing, and there will always be a customer who knows real quality when they see it, and will therefore pay what the quality demands. What denim is proving most popular? We’re impressed with Scotch & Soda’s Amsterdam Blauw denim line. I think with selling denim there is a real trust issue for customers. Our regulars know the Scotch & Soda brand and know it’s a quality product. We’ve always done well with the clean raw washes as they can be pretty versatile – dressed up or worn more casually. In terms of styles, the slim jean is still as popular as ever, but more and more fellas are coming in-store looking for a relaxed fit. Have you built up a strong following for denim? With chinos coming into the market in a big way, and more high street and independent retailers opening up in the city, the denim market has steadily been squeezed. Luckily, there are some great denim labels that deal only with independents, which has enabled us to turn the tide a little with denim sales. We have a good customer base, but their buying habits for denim have changed. Where we once had regular customers buying a pair of jeans every month or so, there is no guarantee now. Is it just jeans, or are you selling a lot more denim jackets or shirts? We sell both denim and chambray shirts well. There was a big chino and denim shirt look but, with the chinos slowing, it’ll be interesting to see what effect it has on the shirting.
Have you seen a move away from chinos back into denim for your customers? No, I’d say more chinos are being sold. In fact, with all the new fits and colours, there has been an uprising in the chino market. They have almost become the new jeans. It’s not all about an old man in his “dressed down Friday” office look anymore. Dockers has got it together; there is a cut for everyone. What price points work the best on denim? If you can get a proper jean for under £200, it’s a good price point. If it’s over £200, it has to live up to the price tag and stand the test of time. What denim is proving most popular? For us, it’s still Levi’s Vintage Clothing. Lee always sells well when it goes back to its archives and does a proper 101z or 101b jean – not a fashion version, but the real deal. Have you built up a strong following for denim? We are classed as a denim specialist, but we’re not a one-trick pony. People don’t just come to us for jeans, but everything that complements them, from the right boots from Red Wing to the right jacket from Buzz Rickson. Is it just jeans, or are you selling more denim jackets or shirts? Denim jackets and shirts are always slow sellers. You can wear jeans loose or slim but, when it comes to a jacket, for instance, it may fit across the shoulders but not be right across the chest or waist. People tend to be a lot more fussy and expect an exact fit with a denim shirt, too. But, unless a more tailored approach to denim jackets and shirts is taken, they’re always going to be a harder sell.
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October/November12
Paul Drew
Interview
Paul Drew is another poacher turned gamekeeper, having swapped his menswear buyer position at Asos to front up sales as country manager for Dutch denim brand Denham. It’s his love of denim, in particular his strong belief in the label itself, that has signalled the move to the other side of the fence, discovers Tom Bottomley.
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Tom Bottomley: Why did you make the move from buyer to supplier? Paul Drew: My career has been shaped by the people I have worked with, such as Kevin Smith at Amici Menswear, John Pattinson at Bentalls, Stefan Pesticcio at Asos and Nick Preston at JD Sports Fashion. I constantly want to learn and be working with people at the top of their game, and the team at Denham is definitely that. Not only are they immensely talented, they are passionate and inspiring. Also, the opportunity to work with one of my favourite brands made the move easy to do. TB: When did you join, and how are you finding being sat on the other side of the fence? PD: I am five months into my Denham career, as I joined in May this year, so I feel ready to talk about it. It has been a fast learning curve, as the day-to-day running is different working for a brand, which incorporates managing a wholesale team, retail team, working closely with our PR agency, Exposure, and, of course, HQ in Amsterdam. We have some fantastic customers in wholesale who I love working with, and we have our retail store below our office and showrooms. I’m a shopkeeper at heart, so I love spending time in our store. In fact, a fair bit of my day is working with our retail team in the Denham store in Shoreditch, and I know Jason Denham does the same in Amsterdam, too.
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TB: How has your first season selling gone? Is the UK market still proving tough, or are most of the retailers you deal with proving resilient? PD: It’s difficult in the market for everyone. However, we are making great progress and have made positive steps this season. Bucking the trend, we have increased our orders with some key independent accounts, and have brought in new important accounts such as Coggles. We’ve also grown significantly with new women’s boutiques. We believe strongly in our women’s business for the future. TB: Is denim back in a big way after so many seasons of chinos taking the sales glory? PD: Absolutely. Our denim buy is up 35 per cent this season, and the capacity in the factories and laundries is filling up again. TB: What is Denham’s bestselling jean, and what can Denham do that other denim brands can’t? What’s the speciality? PD: The Skin style for men is the bestselling jean at the moment. It’s a slim-cut, five-pocket jean, featuring signature Denham details like the seven-point back pocket, a drop-front yoke and heritage one-piece fly plackets. Denham is not a copycat brand – we create our own signature and identity.
TB: Can Denham become as big as G-Star? Is that what you envisage? TB: Did Denham approach you or vice versa? PD: Denham is often compared to G-Star because PD: In late April, I made a trip to visit a good friend, the HQ is in Amsterdam. However, G-Star is 30 years Ben Sibthorpe, in Amsterdam. Ben is Denham’s old, and Denham is only five years old. G-Star is in international sales manager, and we went to lunch 3,000 accounts worldwide, and Denham is in 300. It’s with Jason, who I have known for some time as I had a completely different business model. bought Blue Blood and Denham while at Asos. We got talking about the UK and how Denham was in TB: Where in the world does Denham now have its the market. Jason wanted a different approach to the own retail stores? Are there any more planned in the business. They were asking my opinion on how the near future in the UK? brand should be taken forward as I had bought PD: We have a men’s and a women’s store in Denham from day one. My views were very much Amsterdam, plus shops in Tokyo, Osaka and, of the same as theirs. Jason knew of my passion for course, London. We are planning more stores in the jeans and his brand, and the opportunity of working UK and internationally. Franchises could be an for Denham came from that. option if we meet the right partners. TB: Is working with one specific brand more to your liking than having to buy into countless ranges? PD: As a buyer, I enjoyed the variety of working with different labels – it makes the role as a branded buyer interesting. But I don’t think about it now, as there are so many parts of my new role that are keeping me busy, but it would be the single most thing I miss. Denham produces eight collections per year, four each for menswear and womenswear, so there is plenty of product to work with in our own ranges. TB: Out of all the brands to jump sides to, what was the attraction of Denham in particular? PD: I bought Denham’s first winter collection for a/w 09 while I was at Asos, and I have always been a huge fan of Jason’s work. On many buying trips to Amsterdam, I have been lucky enough to go behind the scenes at the brand’s HQ and see how it operates. While on those visits, I have met the majority of the team behind the label and have seen how it has grown in such a short space of time. It has an exciting future and I wanted to be a part of it. The opportunity excited me. TB: Was it a big performer for Asos, or did you see much greater potential for the brand in the UK? PD: Asos was one of the first customers of Denham in the UK. It is a brand Denham has worked with over past seasons, and it entered Asos as one of the “profile” labels. As with start-up brands, it needs time to grow and is doing so season by season.
TB: How many UK accounts do you currently have, and how do you intend to grow the brand in the UK? PD: We have 50 UK accounts, and we consider them all very good accounts. We have realigned the brand going forward for s/s 13 to focus and support them more, to take Denham forward in the UK. We work with many great independents such as Accent, Choice, Pilot, Six Whiting Street and Psyche, as well as bigger stores including Cruise, Selfridges and Harvey Nichols. For s/s 13, Coggles, Richmond Classics and Michael Chell are some of the great new accounts we are looking to grow with. TB: Aside from denim, what other strengths does the brand have in terms of product? Can we expect new product categories moving forward? PD: Denham has always been a collection brand as well as a jeans label. Outerwear is strong, as are knits, shirts, jersey. In 2013, we will launch a collaboration with Buttero from Italy and, in 2014, we will begin a collaboration with Converse USA. TB: What level of the market do the jeans sit at? PD: When you consider the quality, our prices are competitive. Our fabrics are from Italy and Japan, and the positioning is medium to high-end. TB: As a former buyer for Bentalls and Asos, what experience can you bring to your new role as country manager? PD: I have 12 years’ buying experience, ranging from
an independent retailer through to a department store, online and a year at a multiple retail group at JD Sports Fashion. Over that time, I have experienced many of the conversations that I’m sure I’ll come up against in our showrooms. I have learnt many ways to trade and grow a brand, so I feel I can help support every customer we work with. As a young brand, it is important that we listen and support our customers, so we are active in visiting each of them and doing what we can to drive sales and build our brand. In Holland, the wholesale team visit every customer monthly, which has reaped rewards not only with the owners of the businesses and buyers but the floor staff, too. I feel strongly about relationships with customers and suppliers, as it’s what always got me the results as a buyer, so it’s no different now that I’m working for the supplier. TB: What’s going to be the big news for Denham in 2013? PD: Store openings in the UK, Europe and other international locations, and collaborations with selected brands, including the aforementioned footwear. Developing the women’s collection further is also a key focus. •
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Stock
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Report
Is your stock past its sell-by date? Thierry Bale, managing director of business consultancy Global Fashion Management, explains how retailers can keep fresh goods coming in without losing cash. Any grocery retailer will tell you that ensuring their goods are sold within the sell-by date represents a significant amount of time and effort. If only the same were true of more fashion retailers. The ugly truth is, in fashion – as in food – if your stock remains on the shop floor for too long, it becomes stale and nobody wants to buy it, which means less profit for you and less available cash for buying new stock. If you’re finding the going tough, it’s time to take action. When I talk about sell-by dates for fashion, it’s not just a question of months – we’re talking days. The point is, the fashion sell-by date is usually 60-90 days on the shop floor. However, if you have a young contemporary product, you are competing (intentionally or not) with fast-fashion retailers such as Zara and H&M. In this case, your sell-by is only 30-45 days. Recently, I was invited to attend a trade show in Paris as a visiting retail expert. The Fédération Nationale de l’Habillement shared the results of a study, which showed that goods were identified as being “old” once they had been on the shop floor for 70 days. The same applies to the US market. So with this time frame in mind, get your team together and go around your shop checking which goods are getting close to their sell-by date. Make sure you take action on goods that are not selling well after 60 days. The point is, if you do nothing, the “old” goods will simply end up costing you money as you will have to discount them heavily at the end of the season. Work smart, however, and you can turn the situation around earlier on. Here are some actions you can take to clear old goods: – Incentivise your staff to push the old goods – Request the brands’ support – swapping slow-moving goods for hot styles (some brands do it, however you need to act early, so maybe within 30 days) – Email your customers and offer a promotion on this brand/style – Create “VIP goods” where the customer will enjoy a discount on specific goods – Work these goods as free goods or offer a free item with the purchase of old goods. You just need to work the margin out carefully – Offer gift certificates to be redeemed on these goods A healthy, thriving business can be driven by frequent deliveries of fresh goods. Why is this? – Because staff and customers alike want to deal with new goods as they get excited by them – Newness is the reason for customers to come back to your shop every week or month (another reason
classes lagging behind or classes that are under-stocked. It enables you to increase sales, profits and customer traffic. I make no apologies for being evangelical about the OTB plan. The point is, it helps you to run a profitable business by telling you what is working and what isn’t. You need an accurate sales and stock forecast per product class each month to take the right actions. It makes an enormous Bringing freshness into the shop during the season difference to your profitability. provides you with a great opportunity to connect Bear in mind, however, that there is little with your customers (by phone, text, email) and point in having sales and stock forecasts if you don’t invite them to your shop. follow them and act on them. Imagine the OTB plan An important issue about freshness is in the dress category tells you to buy £15,000 this bringing in new brands. In the current economy, it season but you decide to buy £20,000. At retail price, seems safe to keep your usual brands in the shop. we are talking a difference of £13,500 (using a 2.7 However, the old brands will not get the customers mark-up) of overstock that can only be cleared with as excited as newly discovered ones. Remember, customers have two key questions a discount. Let’s say 30 per cent. You would therefore give away £4,050. See what I mean? in mind – what’s new and what’s on a discount? Think about the ideas I’ve mentioned and try However, having only stale goods in your shop them out. And remember, if your goods aren’t means one thing – fewer customers. Research shows that women may shop every two to four weeks in the moving, take action before it is too late. same shop, so if there is no sign of freshness, they TOP TIPS: will go elsewhere. Merchandising, or putting goods TIP 1: Every month, check styles that are not selling elsewhere on the floor might work briefly, but shoppers are more savvy than that and will soon lose and take action to clear them (this includes end of lines). interest – all of which begs the question, “How can you move your stock and keep fresh goods coming in TIP 2: Take action today and lose 5 to 20 per cent; take action at the end of the season and lose 30 to 70 without losing cash?” per cent. Successful retailers will tell you that, as in so TIP 3: To clear goods, there are many marketing many areas of business, information is power. More ideas, so there is more to it than just putting a “20% than this, it will put money in your pocket. When I off” in the window. work with retailers to help turn their business around, I always use an Open To Buy plan (OTB). Why? Because it tells us how much to buy and when For more information, contact Thierry Bale at Global to bring the goods in. It shows the planned sales and Fashion Management on 020 8576 6233, email retail@globalfashionmanagement.com or visit stock for your shop and compares them with your www.globalfashionmanagement.com. actual sales. Immediate action can take place on for this is so they can pick up some discounted goods, but then your profits are down) – Fresh goods can be sold at full price and generate not just cash but profits – Having fresh goods will usually allow you to have a full-size break down
Your One Stop Shop for
Stock
T: 01450 363 100 E: sales@hawickknitwear.com www.hawickknitwear.com
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Brands: Ones to watch/ p21 Product: In-season stock/ p26 Profile: Other Shop/ p29 Profile: Drake’s London/
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Ones to watch Ally Capellino Accessories brand Ally Capellino gets a modern update for s/s 13.
Contact: 020 7613 3037
A strong undercurrent of modernity has been a constant of Ally Capellino since its inception over 30 years ago, but never more so than in the label’s s/s 13 collection. Elements, from the use of techy fabrics through to simple lines and functional fastenings, have roots in the brand’s archives, but are used in a new forward-facing manner this season. For example, industrial-weight nylon is combined with vegetable-tanned leather and crafted into highly desirable holdalls and rucksacks with magnetic fastenings and robust clip fastenings. Meanwhile, abstract artist Mark Rothko influences the colour blocking of dark green, black and navy and tan across the collection. Look out for the “iSaac” for electronic gadgetry this season, while the Luggage group
continues to expand. Unlined work and travel bags with stitched pocket detailing are made in washed vegetable-tanned, Italian leather, while the Zippy features straps and handles that sit to one side of the bag, giving a quirky dimension when held. Women’s leather bags, belts and accessories such as wallets, a strap for glasses and keyrings are also available. Wholesale prices span from £20 for a leather keyring or wallet to £225 for a Made in England leather holdall.
Le Chameau Heritage label Le Chameau introduces new foldable wellington boot.
Contact: 01489 557600
Heritage rubber boot manufacturer Le Chameau has introduced the Cabourg (pictured), a foldable boot, for s/s 13. The unisex style is available in marine blue and black and packs away into its own carrying bag, making it ideal for travelling and festivals. Natural rubber is used throughout the entire Le Chameau collection, and the Cabourg style also features the hardwearing and comfortable jersey lining with a flat, non-slip sole. A favourite of Princes William and Harry as well as the Duchess of Cambridge, Le Chameau boots are produced in Northern France and distributed to 27 countries worldwide. The wholesale price for the Cabourg boot is £35.
Unit Portables Scandinavian bag brand Unit Portables launch new colourways for a/w 12.
Contact: 020 8429 7012
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Unit Portables’ customisable shoulder bags and popular iPad and tablet carriers are now available in two new, stylish colourways for a/w 12. The Russet Red bag (pictured) adds a touch of autumnal warmth to an otherwise chilly winter wardrobe, while the introduction of the range in navy blue is an alternative to black this season. Unit Portables launched its modular system of bags just one year ago, offering customers fashionable storage options that can be added or removed according to daily needs with interchangeable colourways for a bespoke look. Unit 01 is the primary bag, designed to carry either a 13in or 15in laptop, while Units 02 and 03 hold smaller items such as phones, wallets, cables or digital cameras in the additional, detachable pouches. Wholesale prices range from £12.50 for iPad sleeves to £40 for overnight bags.
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Sharp dresser One trend to return season after season is the crisp, sharp suit for the sartorial dresser. Double-breasted tailored blazers are the come-back piece of the season, while newness comes in the form of jacquard and quirky printed fabrics. Pocket squares, cuff links and trilby hats offer the finishing touch.
Bailey of Hollywood hat, £19.50, 01946 818275
Tateossian cuff links, £30, 020 7384 8300
BERTONI
Otis Batterbee pocket squares, £19, 020 7267 8753
Magee suit jacket, price on request, 0035 3749724832
Remus Uomo suit jacket, £63, 02893 327777
Sand blazer, price on request, 020 7608 9100
Skopes coat, £76, 0113 240 2211
Robert Graham shirt, £141, 020 7603 4500
Unless otherwise stated, all prices are wholesale
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60s Paris Menswear takes a rugged twist for autumn, drawing inspiration directly from Paris – more specifically Paris in the 60s. Simplicity is key with roll-necks, straight-cut trousers, and the classic cream trench, of course, at the core of the trend, while leather accessories add a certain je ne sais quoi.
Joules red waistcoat, £34, 01858 435261
Boomerang cream roll-neck, £72, 020 7603 4500
Andy Richardson cream trench, price on request, 020 3432 6385
BUGATTI
Millican bag, £68, 01768 7746687
Sand leather boots, price on request, 020 7608 9100
Dents leather gloves, £34, 01985 212291 Gabicci vintage jumper, £30, 01442 233700
Camel Active trousers, price on request, 020 7736 0230
www.vanbuck.com Tel: 01787 462012 Argentina Leather Soles
www.gucinari.co.uk
DEDICATED TO STYLE
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Weekend retreat Following on from the summer of sport, sportswear continues to be a prominent trend moving into autumn. Leisure and casualwear are given a sports-luxe twist with flashes of neon, leather patches and football leather-bound buttons. Relaxed, unstructured and loose-fitting silhouettes allow for movement, with a colour palette comprising grey, white and navy.
Bar Harbour shirt, £18.99, 01924 375651 Remus Uomo, £29.50, 02893 327777
CASAMODA
Oliver Sweeney, price on request, 020 7428 3237
Jack Murphy gilet, £50, 01768 867590
Tateossian white watch, £200, 020 7384 8300
Stones, £63, 07980 241025
Vicomte bag, £108, 020 3432 6385
Lotus cardigan, price on request, 01953 608552
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Other Shop
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Profile
Other things to do When B Store partners Mathew Murphy and Kirk Beattie first went into retail, the concept was all about trailblazing up-and-coming design talent with a healthy dose of own-brand. But the B Store brand itself took over, and they’ve now changed tack and gone back to the original retail idea with Other Shop, writes Tom Bottomley.
Plan “a” was B Store, a breaking ground for young up-and-coming designers, particularly those fresh off the catwalk from London Fashion Week. But B Store became a very different beast when it’s own brand took over and started to have overwhelming presence in the shop. Partners Mathew Murphy and Kirk Beattie have now gone to plan “b”, which is actually a reincarnation of plan “a”, but under the name of Other Shop. The Kingly Street store in London changed face, or rather fascia, to Other Shop overnight at the beginning of September. B Store still exists, with their former partner José Neves, but only as a footwear brand, not as a shop or clothing line. Meanwhile, Murphy and Beattie have launched a label again and, yes, it’s called Other. But, this time, they are not going to let wholesaling take over, or let it take over the shop floor. This time, the label is for their shop only, and their website www.other-shop.com, of course, though certain collaborations will happen going forward that may well see Other wholesaled in a
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small and savvy way as add-ons in “other” brands’ collections, or just for the collaborating brand’s store, and the Other Shop, too. “We’re in talks for a collaboration with Japanese brand Edifice for s/s 13,” says Murphy. “We’ll stock it in our store, they’ll stock it in theirs, and they’re talking about whether they can put some of it in their wholesale collection.” With regard to B Store, “all the structure became a bit blurred,” says Murphy. “Kirk and I were partners with José Neves on the retail side. But the brand itself was originally just a shoe label – and José always owned the brand,” he continues. “We worked creatively on the brand, and launched and designed the menswear, as well as continuing to input with the footwear. The problem was that the label grew to a size that meant we could no longer focus on our own retail business because we were working solely on the brand and working harder for other stores such as Liberty and Selfridges on the wholesale side.” Murphy says the store became more of a tool to support the B Store brand. The initial idea of the store was to have 50 per cent own-brand, but the other 50 per cent was to support young designers and be a platform for up-and-coming talent. “But we ended up not having time for it, and it virtually became 100 per cent own brand towards the end,” he says. “I think one of the main reasons B Store did survive as an independent shop was because it was exactly that – an independent that was individual with the support for young designers. And we stuck at it.” And now they’re back where they want to be, leaving Neves with the B Store brand, while they focus back on retail with the Other Shop. In terms of the B Store menswear collection, they didn’t deliver a/w 12. “It’s a shame because it was our best season,” says Murphy. “But we didn’t have the infrastructure and finance to support the size of it. When you’re working with Mr Porter and Asos and so on, you’ve got to have the network, a team there to support it. And we didn’t. We thought we were going to run into some deep problems because, once you start delaying deliveries, cancelling orders and so on, it’s a slippery road for a brand.” Murphy believes it happens to any label as
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they grow from small to a medium-sized brand. “It’s the biggest step and, if you’re not ready for it, it won’t work,” he says. “If you look at the likes of YMC and Folk, they had help to take them to the next stage. Not just financial, but also some experience to bridge that growth.” For them, it was difficult because they simply didn’t have that help. “So when we decided to leave B Store and concentrate on our own retail again, a weight lifted off our shoulders.” And now they can once again enjoy spending time buying into collections from the likes of Stephan Schneider, Christophe Lemaire, Peter Jensen, Sophie Hulme, Berthold, Etudes and Our Legacy, which they genuinely like. The previous B Store shop on Savile Row had a different vibe to it than Kingly Street, but it’s probably worked out better for them in relation to brand “fit” and footfall. Murphy says the move (in December 2011) was “forced’ because the building they were in had been sold, and that they had intended to stay there. B Store was 10 years old in 2011. “The move inspired us to take a new direction,” says Murphy. “We wanted to move into Soho, and obviously Liberty is just up the road from us. We also have a good relationship with Shaftesbury – the guys who own most of the property in this area. And, actually, the move was an inspired one because the energy and foot flow is different. People who had heard of B Store weren’t even aware we had that Savile Row shop – even though it’s only a street away. They didn’t go to Mayfair. So we’ve tried to make it feel a bit younger and attract a new customer. I also think Kingly Street, Beak Street and the whole area has changed. It has a different feel to it.” Although B Store menswear is no more, Murphy believes that, through their experience working on a brand, it is important to still have own-brand and create product for their own retail purposes. “We work with so many creative brands, but you can’t really buy basics from them,” he says. So that’s the intention of Other. It will never be a seasonal collection, and it’s not about showing during London Fashion Week; it’s about filling in
the gaps. “It will be also be more reactive,” says Murphy. “We’re producing it in England and have found some nice small manufacturers. The guy who makes shirts for Turnball & Asser is doing our shirts, for example.” The idea is that the own brand will be Other Shop’s entry price point, so shirts sell for £110-£140 and trousers £100-£150, and similarly on the womenswear. “We can control the way it is,” says Murphy. “We wouldn’t be able to work with the manufacturers we are working with in the UK if we wholesaled it. You have to step up. All of a sudden, you have to go to bigger factories who want minimums, and that’s what happened with B Store. For example, a big Hong Kong shop such as Lane Crawford places an order on a shirt in the collection that no-one else has bought – you don’t want to cancel the order because it’s Lane Crawford, but you’ve got to make 50. All of a sudden, you’re own shop has to take 30. We don’t want to get into that position again.” It seems lessons have been learnt, and Murphy and Beattie can thrive on being good independent retailers once again. And slightly more relaxed with it.
AN EXCLUSIVE RANGE OF LUXURY SOCKS AVAI LABLE NOW FROM VIYELLA FOR ENQUIRIES PLEASE CONTACT: Cherril or Steven on 01773 838300
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Drake’s London
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Profile
Artisans in the East End There may not be too much made in the UK these days, but it’s usually highly regarded when it is. In a backwater of the capital’s East End, Drake’s London has been quietly plying its trade of making men’s accessories since 1977. But it’s only now getting the attention it deserves, writes Tom Bottomley. Drake’s London is not a name many people would recognise – a little like a best kept secret. But those in the know, know it stands for quality accessories – largely made in the UK, and intriguingly most of its scarves, ties and hankerchiefs are made in a factory in the East End that’s existed since Michael Drake founded the company – predominantly initially making private label – in the 70s. Now, though, the likes of online menswear retailer Mr Porter and Selfridges are wholesale customers. There are also collaborations with distinguished names such as Dover Street Market, J Crew and Monocle, as well as a standalone Mayfair shop that is only in its second year of trading. Drake himself is what managing director and partner in the business, Michael Hill, who joined the company 10 years ago after several years heading up wholesale at Richard James, describes as “semi-retired” these days. But the ethos of the brand is the same, and the company is in the process of moving into new factory premises and larger warehouse facility, still in the East End. “Although we always had the Drake’s London brand, we mainly made private label for the more conservative tailoring stores, as well as some high fashion shops,” says Hill. “We sold a lot of our cashmere scarves to family run businesses in towns across Italy. There was a lot of play-with-colour combinations, and Michael Drake was really selling a kind of Englishness, but more how the Italians and French perceived English to be. It had a more European sensibility. But the Drake’s London name itself has never pushed until more recently.” Italy is, in fact, Drake’s London’s biggest market, and has been since the business started out making scarves. After that comes Japan, then the US, followed by Spain, France and Switzerland. “And now Korea is becoming an important market for us, and we’ve just started in Russia,” says Hill. “In terms of the UK business, it’s come out of nowhere in the last couple of years, and it’s now up there with our business in Japan and America. We had people knocking on our factory door almost on a daily basis, asking where they could buy our ties, and that as much as anything told me we could open a shop in London. People say retailing in the UK is not what it used to be, but I’m encouraged – it’s started nicely for us.” Other product categories now include knitwear, made in Scotland. And new for this winter is its first venture into outerwear, with a quilted country jacket made in England, and a luxury fine twill raincoat made in Italy and retailing at £995.
“We don’t make in the UK purely for the sake of it,” says Hill. “We’d like to make in the UK but, if we find something better in Italy, we make it there. For example, we’re now producing two styles of overcoat, as well as a raincoat, out of Italy.” The outerwear and knitwear is purely being sold through their own store on Clifford Street, just off Savile Row, and its website, www.drakes-london.com, for now. Because of the cost, it wouldn’t make sense to wholesale them at the moment, though it’s something Hill would consider if it was more viable. “We’re not the manufacturer, so we can’t build in the required margins for the outerwear,” he says. “We can’t cut anything out of the product, and we wouldn’t want to. If, however, we could find a way of working with some of our current accounts with some of our other products, I would be keen to do it, but it’s not something we’re pushing. We’re wholesaling the things we are making ourselves.” Primarily, though, Hill sees the latest product additions, such as the coats, jackets and knitwear, as something to give more depth to their own retail offer. “The shop has enabled us to meet our customer directly, and put our ‘look’ together properly for the first time,” says Hill. “Though we do still make some product for some of the tailors and shirt-makers on Savile Row and Jermyn Street.” Socks, cuff links, leather wallets and wash bags, shirts, bow ties and pocket squares are also
in the Drake’s London product mix. Hill says they want to return to the days of the old-school gentlemen’s haberdashery, whereby a man would buy his suit on Savile Row then go around the corner for the finer details – ties, cuff links, pocket squares and so forth. With a return to men seemingly being more sartorially aware, Hill says their sales of items such as bow ties and pocket squares have never been stronger. The old men’s haberdashers concept is being given a modern presentation by Drake’s London, appealing to a younger man about town, as well as guys in their 60s. “Our customer base really does range from guys in their 30s right up to older gents,” says Hill. “And we get young guys knocking on the factory door just wanting to have a look around and see things being made. There has been a real swing back to interest in artisan products.” Hill says they would like to attract some UK independents who have an eye for – and a customer for – handcrafted and more artisan products. It sounds like a welcome invitation too good to miss for the right types of retailers. Word also has it that they may also have a small amount of surplus stock that might just be worth a tickle in the run-up to Christmas, but best keep that hush. •
130 years HJ Hall Established
1882
UK FOR HE
MANU FA C
RING IN T TU
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Ones to watch Stighlorgan Irish label Stighlorgan presents edited selection of functional bags for s/s 13.
Contact: 07887 730761
Irish accessories brand Stighlorgan, which was launched for a/w 11, is inspired by the emotions of the beginning a journey and all aspects of travelling. The label’s s/s 13 collection, entitled Still Motion: In Transit, revolves around the concept of railway signal lines and colours, and is the most complete range to date with both new and updated designs. New additions include the “scout pack”, alongside a reworked holdall across the “bronze” line, while a water-resistant canvas rucksack and backpack are both practical and attractive – the latter in this season’s key pattern, a check linen canvas inspired by old mail train gunny sacks. The “brown” line, meanwhile, contains suede leather styles and extra-large tool bag made
from calico cotton canvas with fisherman-style lacquer canvas gussets. Finally, the “green” line presents the core canvas collection for the brand, including a messenger, laptop bag, flap rucksack, zip-top rucksack, tool bag and shoulder tote. Stighlorgan is currently stocked on its own website as well as online retailer Asos, but is keen to expand into independents in key territories such as the UK, Ireland, Germany, American and Australia. Wholesale prices range from £23.60 to £71.60.
Native Youth Menswear brand Native Youth represents a no-nonsense British way of doing things.
Contact: 020 7739 7620
Native Youth’s signature aesthetic remains unchanged from its first season, drawing on no-nonsense British fashion coupled with Japanese workwear styling. The 50-piece collection focuses on creating modern menswear wardrobe staples across a wide range of premium jerseys, shirts, outerwear and trouser segments. Stand-out pieces this season include tapered selvedge raw denims, reverse print tees, a Japanese worker vest in burnt orange and its signature fisherman jacket with a coated linen fabric. Since its launch in 2011, Native Youth has been well-received by buyers, with the likes of Asos, Selfridges, Urban Outfitters and Coggles expressing interest. Wholesale prices range between £7 and £25.
Nordic Union of Novel Camouflage Danish label Nordic Union of Novel Camouflage is out to impress with its third collection.
Contact: 07712 522874
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Nordic Union of Novel Camouflage is catching the eye of fashion insiders this season with its third collection of effortless Danish cool. Finding inspiration from St Tropez, the main theme, Nunc Tropez, influences the colour range and materials for the collection, where you’ll find basic tones of black, white and stone combined with sharper peach and petrol shades. In addition, linen, viscose and light slub jerseys contribute towards a more relaxed, 80s vibe. In general, the brand follows the typical Scandinavian silhouette with slim ankles and skinny bottoms, but plays with more casual and boxy fits across T-shirts, sweats and shirts. Unique design details this season include oversized metal zippers and pullers, new diagonal cuts and all over prints for shirts and shorts. Wholesale prices range from £10 for T-shirts to £60 for jackets and blazers.
October/November12
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Product
Denim
Bench, £18, 020 7836 9312 Dockers, £36, 020 7729 7629
Fly 53, £26, 01905 745884
On the road Take a road trip this season with South American Aztec and Mexican blanket prints, teamed with classics such as chinos, western shirts, denim jackets and crew-neck sweaters.
Pepe Jeans London, £52, 020 7313 3800
Goliath Footwear, £40, 07962 177480
Analog, £46, 01932 570076
Minimum, £26, 07966 465456
Penfield, £22, 020 7720 5050
Blend, £6.69, 0045 79433000 Firetrap, £24, 020 8753 000
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Peaceful Hooligan
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Profile
Sole makes a stand After founding and spending 20 years at Infinities, Martyn Sole has quit to concentrate on the Peaceful Hooligan brand he’s brought back to life with partner Tom Darbyshire. It’s a bold move, but Sole sees big potential as they grow the collection and expand the distribution network off the back of their football fan contacts and social media. Tom Bottomley finds out more.
When Martyn Sole sold his Infinities business three years ago but carried on in his role as buying and merchandising director, you might say the writing was on the wall for him to move on to pastures new, despite overseeing Infinities’ tremendous growth. Well, that time has come, and the emphasis is on taking a label he first started with in 2005 to new heights with partner Tom Darbyshire. “Tom has been the catalyst for the success of Peaceful Hooligan over the last two years since we relaunched it,” says Sole. “He will be focusing on the creative direction of the brand, while I will be controlling the wholesale division both in the UK and internationally.” After 20 years’ commitment to the Infinities business, Sole feels the time is right for him to pursue the opportunities that Peaceful Hooligan has presented to them and to concentrate on its growth. Speaking of Infinites, however, he says, “I wish them best for the future, and I have enjoyed being instrumental in the business’ expansion over the last three years – which has taken it to 13 stores including the internet – since we got bought out by the Concept Retail Group in 2009.” The first shop was set up by Sole and his family in Newcastle-Under-Lyme in 1991. Infinities is a key stockist of Peaceful Hooligan, as are Originals, Drome, Terraces, Scotts, 80s Casual Classics and Henry Brummel, the focus obviously being the football and terraces culture – which also stretches to retailers such as Casual Clothing in Copenhagen, ProudHeart in Moscow and The Coolness Society in Milan, which is also the distributor getting Peaceful Hooligan into the right boutiques across Italy. The relaunch was initially purely online (www.peacefulhooligan.co.uk) for one year to see if they still had a market for it. They managed to get the name out there to see what the reaction was,
with Facebook, Twitter and other interactive social media such as photo sharing app Instagram proving pivotal tools. “With our football connections from the past, we then managed to get it placed in the right accounts,” says Sole. “And it started to grow organically.” It was the graphic tees at first but, from the back of it, they started to build a full collection, which now includes polos, hoodies, shorts, sweatshirts and technical outerwear for s/s 13. Sales are currently being looked after by UK68 Agencies on Shoreditch High Street. “S/s 13 orders have been strong and in line with our expectations with 45 UK accounts and 10 international,” says Sole. “We want to get to around 50 in the UK and then hold back. What we don’t want to do is over-expose the brand. First and foremost, we want the retailers we deal with to be able to communicate and sell it well, and get it firmly established. “We know from our sales on the internet that there are plenty of people into it,” he continues. “We’re sending a lot of product to Russia, as well as Belgium, The Netherlands and Germany. It’s still relatively small, but it’s starting to move in the right direction.” Sole says they saw a gap in the market where certain “lads’ brands” had fallen out of favour or gone off the boil. “There wasn’t anything to service the Saturday kid going to football, unless they were going to spend premium money on the likes of
Stone Island and CP Company,” he says. The football connotations are indeed clear, but where did the name Peaceful Hooligan originate? “When we first started it in 2005, we customised some old Nato army jackets,” says Sole. “They were quite naughty little jackets that zipped up right over your nose. When you looked in the mirror, you thought, ‘That’s a right terrace hooligan’s jacket!’ But, with the war in Iraq and people wanting peace, we merged the two and came up with Peaceful Hooligan. And it stuck.” The original jackets were cut up, panelled with different fabrics and laundered and made a bit softer for the fashion market. “We did alright with those,” says Sole. “We sold around 700 of them in the shop.” It’s a firm figure in anybody’s books but, these days, it seems the Peaceful Hooligan crew is growing by the day, and just in time for the start of the football season, too. •
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Denim
People
Denim forecast Victoria Jackson speaks to two of the denim industry’s finest to discover the buying habits of the jean-wearing man and what the future holds for the denim sector. Amy Leverton, senior denim editor, Stylesight What do you think will be the biggest trends for spring/summer 2013? Menswear denim trends get summery for s/s 13. We’re tracking two interpretations of beachside denim; one is a 90s surf and skate attitude, with tie-waist boardshort style, mid-though short lengths, cut-off shirts, vests and the upsize denim tee key. For surface updates, look to sunset-wash inspirations and layered tie-dyes, as well as 90s fabric blocking and print inspiration. For the more mature vibe, we’re tracking a 50s vacation attitude with retro resortwear for s/s 13. For this trend, you want to be pairing your rigid 50s regular denims with boxy, short-sleeved shirts and spread-collar detailing, a denim blouson jacket, short-sleeved blazer or a chambray bomber. Think James Dean or Elvis on holiday in Hawaii. What is today’s denim shopper looking for? Quality. Selvedge used to be something that only “denim-heads” knew about, but now many high street brands are jumping on the trend and releasing premium, quality denim. The denim wearer is more willing to pay more for the privilege. Both men and women are getting more and more savvy about the quality of the denim they purchase and where it comes from.
Mithun Ramanandi, men’s spirit, denim and bodywear buyer, Selfridges What does the Selfridges consumer look for when buying his denim? We are finding the majority of our customers are wanting the classic pair of jeans – comfort, versatility and a perfect fit are key factors. Customers want the perfect pair of jeans that they might wear to the office as well as on a night out. Having said that, we do also attract the sort of customer who is looking for innovation – Naked & Famous’ Glow in the Dark jeans have been one of our runaway successes for a/w 12. Which other brands are performing well for you this season? Reflecting our customer’s drive towards the classic jean, we’ve seen brands such as 7 For All Mankind and Nudie excel over the summer, and they are continuing to provide strong sales for a/w 12. PRPS are also doing well – it’s a brand that has created its own niche and has a loyal following. As our denim department is going from strength to strength, we won’t be dropping any current brands, but we have bought into Scotch & Soda denim, J Brand for Men and Edwin jeans to our London store come s/s 13.
How is the denim market faring at the minute? Customers seem to go back to tried-and-tested old favourites during times of financial hardship, so denim brands don’t seem to be suffering. There have been a few wobbles with some labels but, generally, people are doing good business as consumers get more attracted to quality and craftsmanship. We report about new denim brands cropping up almost on a weekly basis.
With the rise of the chino, consumers have lost interest in denim. Was this drop in popularity felt in-store? S/s 11 was a more difficult season with the surge in demand for chinos. However, 2012 has seen the demand for denim come back with gusto. We also brought in much lighter-weight denims as well as printed styles to make denim a summer staple for our customers. At the minute, denim is doing well for us; we’re currently 60 per cent on last year, and key brands such as Diesel, G-Star and Nudie continue to gain momentum across all our stores.
What are your predictions come autumn/winter 2014? We think the retro vibe will continue to take hold and develop. The 90s is a key driver for younger men and will continue, but the new, preppy resort look seems to have more longevity. We’re also seeing the boot-flare creep in for men.
Which direction do you see the denim market going in? We have seen a steady rise in customers wanting to know about the products they’re buying and how sustainable they are. For example, for a/w 12, Nudie went 100 per cent organic, and this was met with a great response from our denim regulars.
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Denim focus
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Brands
Deconstructed to digital Innovative and inspiring designs are vital in today’s saturated jeans market, with denim labels turning to something different to stand out from the competition. MWB highlights some of the key players in the denim sector, discovering what s/s 13 has in store. Natural Selection Established in 2009, British denim label Natural Selection has since developed a cult following with its high-quality premium denim. The name derives from the term introduced by Charles Darwin in his 1859 book, The Origin of Species, describing the natural process by which the strongest and most suitable organism to a specific area flourishes. Broken into four themes, the collection runs from the darkest, most unwashed raw denim to the lightest, buried denim. Raw, for example, is a stiff 14oz selvedge fabric from Okayama. Traditionally chain rope dyed to a deep indigo, it is quick to reveal its characteristic warp and weft slubs.
G-Star Staying true to its denim roots, G-Star returns this season with a slim and minimalist approach, highlighted by the new take on its Elwood model, the introduction of the Contour skinny and the extended slim-fit range. For s/s 13, the introduction of the Red Listing programme features 13.5oz denim, which is woven on vintage shuttle looms. The small looms create irregularities in the fabric, providing denim with more depth and structure. A particular highlight of the Red Listing story is the colour, beginning with a hint of green, gradually fading into traditional blue, created by three dips in indigo done on the base yarn, and post-steaming with an indigo-yellow dip.
Mac
Timezone Offering a cleaner range to previous seasons, German lifestyle label Timezone presents a series of silhouettes for s/s 13, including carrot, slim and x-slim. Colour makes its way into the range, with intricate dyeing techniques and varied surface patterns making this line one of the brand’s strongest to date. Fit, meanwhile, is key, with Timezone’s signature 3D Fit and stretch fabric ensuring optimum freedom of movement for the wearer.
Indispensable to trouser specialist Mac’s product portfolio, the jean continues its reign into s/s 13. Coloured denim is prominent with loud shades through to light pastels. Designed for warmer months, the addition of hemp to denim gives each design a lightweight and comfortable form, while the introduction of casual jogging denims – dyed, washed and treated like denim giving a typical jeans look – stands out as the highlight of the collection.
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Denim focus
Garcia The total denim look lies at the heart of the Garcia collection this season, designed in terms of styling to “combine rock with romance”. The Blue So Blue range incorporates a rugged silhouette for s/s 13, taking inspiration from the fashion-forward cities of Italy. Sartorial details include the straight-legged model with contrast inner stitching, revealed when turned up at the hem, as well as the simple, clean lines featuring throughout.
Duck and Cover Launching for s/s 13, Duck and Cover reveals its never-out-stock AAA denim programme, featuring three key styles in various washes, from raw and dark through to lighter vintage. The brand’s slim-fit Tinnu and straight-leg Boxsir styles are available in three washes, while the loose-fit Bigped design is presented in two washes. Created to minimise the forward-order commitment for retailers, the AAA programme enables buyers to maintain smaller stock levels, while orders placed before 3pm the previous day will be dispatched to stockists the same day.
Hilfiger Denim
Denim Demon Launched in 2006, Swedish label Denim Demon was created by three brothers Oskar, Anton and Patric along with their father Kjellake. Inspired by the family’s Sami culture, each collection is designed to embody this traditional way of living. The Sami community lives a pre-modern way of life, living off live stock and handcrafting goods rather than purchasing them. The s/s 13 season sees the addition of details including sun-bleached finishes, patch repairs and traditional denim washes, all adding to the authenticity of the Sami man’s wardrobe.
Hilfiger Denim’s latest collection is split into three themes for s/s 13 – Indigo Prep, India Prep and Surf Prep – with colour blocking and strong silhouettes creating the core of the Hilfiger Denim range. The popular coloured denim plays a key role in the new season, with indigo, blue and yellow prominent shades, while sun-faded washes add a vintage finish, popular with the younger Hilfiger shopper.
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Denim focus
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Denim Wizard Jeans One of the first body-shaping denim specialists to penetrate the UK market, and previously a women’s-only brand, Wizard Jeans expanded in 2010 to incorporate a men’s denim offer. With three varied styles, the brand’s aim is to “rid the world of the dreaded baggy bum and dropped crotch.” Ranging from sizes 30in-44in, the range comprises straight-cut models in black, blue and stonewashed blue.
Pepe Jeans London Drawing inspiration from a modern American wardrobe, the new Pepe Jeans London collection offers five essential trend stories. Beginning life as a British denim label, Pepe Jeans London has quickly developed into a lifestyle brand, providing its customer with a complete wardrobe offer. A variety of details, washes and finishes, meanwhile, help redefine the label for the contemporary male shopper, while trends such as Portobello – inspired by the culture-clash streets of London’s Notting Hill – offer alternatives for the fashion-conscious denim wearer.
ADenim ADenim’s s/s 13 collection offers no less than 27 washes with 11 different models, including the straight-fit Andrew (pictured), a five-pocket model with French front pockets in washes stemming from clean to vintage. New to the summer collection are a number of light-bleached variations, white denims and light selvedge jeans in vintage washes. The range also features the addition of a roof-destroyed wash, a concept designed to resemble the finish after lying on a flat room through every weather eventuality for one year.
Gaudi Jeans This season, Italian denim label Gaudi Jeans embodies the gritty spirit of iconic film star Marlon Brando with strong silhouettes and a broad selection of Wrangler five-pocket designs. New Established in 1964, Wrangler reintroduces its signature Broken Twill weave into fits and work details are combined with strong the denim market for s/s 13. The innovation saw the weave produced in a washes created through variation of directions forming a zigzag pattern, therefore stopping it twisting the application of on the leg – something that took place with the original left to right and right transparent foils with to left weave that many denim brands used. In terms of newness, the s/s 13 light brush strokes of collection is lightweight in faded blues, with Spencer, the slim-fit, and Ben, the sliver lead. Fashion regular-tapered style, standing out as the key cuts of the season. elements include waist-belt interiors in striped fabric and metal buttons with four handbeaten holes.
Voi Jeans Separating its mainline range into two halves this season, Voi Jeans puts the focus on new trends as well as returning to its roots with a simple, clean five-pocket silhouette. Innovation is the buzzword of s/s 13 with the return of the 3D finish, offering bold whiskered creases at the thigh, back of knees and at the ankles adding new depth in the Balboa model. The Gekko (pictured) design, meanwhile, continues the trend of colour blocking with an indigo hue on the front on the jean and a contrasting grey tone to the back. Finer details include elasticated waistbands with pull strings and curved legged styles.
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Utter Nutter
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Profile
Romford nutty about denim Romford retailer Utter Nutter has maintained its strong performance with denim despite chinos being the talk of other towns in recent seasons. Tom Bottomley discovers owner Kashif Qazi is quite the jean genie in the heart of Essex.
Walking down Romford high street – or South Street as it’s known – on a sodden Monday afternoon, it’s hard to imagine the bustling bars, pubs and clubs, of which there seems many, filled with TOWIE types on a Friday and Saturday night. On the same pedestrianised strip sits Utter Nutter, an independent menswear shop that has been around on South Street in Romford for 15 years, specialising in denim. Ten years prior to Romford, there was also an Utter Nutter in Ilford. They ran concurrently for a number of years until owner Kashif Qazi decided to concentrate on Romford alone. The demolition of the block where the Ilford shop existed may have also had something to do with it. They love a bit of denim in Romford, or so I’m told by Qazi, who, by the sound of it, could almost single-handedly keep Diesel afloat. Yes, this is Diesel country, and the more washes and fits, the better. “Diesel is our major brand, that’s for sure,” says Qazi. “It represents at least 70 per cent of our denim wall. We also sell Nudie, Edwin, Levi’s and G-Star. They’re the denim brands that sell at the moment. We’ve tried others, such as Lee 101 and Wrangler, but they don’t really understand the whole “vintage” thing in Romford. The only selvage jean we sell is from Edwin, the ED-55. They want more visual denim.” That said, they do trust Utter Nutter to offer up something new that they’ve maybe not heard of if it looks like it stands up to the rest, is a good fit and is at the right price. For this reason, Qazi has brought in Last & True jeans, retailing at £65, which is an entry price point for Utter Nutter when it comes to denim. “It’s difficult to introduce new brands around here,” says Qazi. “But, when they see so much denim – and we’ve got over 1,000 pairs on the shop floor – they understand that we wouldn’t have put it in there if we didn’t believe in it. Our customers know we deliver good product.” The bestselling jean is Diesel’s Darron, but it’s also the different executions and treatments of it where Qazi believes they stand out from the crowd. “The one they’ve scrunched and resin treated is £120, and I can’t get enough of it,” he says. Qazi also points
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to Diesel leading the way years ago to breaking the £100 barrier for jeans, and people’s willingness to pay it. They can see it’s worth it, and now people will gladly pay £160 if it’s something special. “If it wasn’t for that movement in the denim market which, in our opinion, was a Diesel influenced trend, we wouldn’t have a business,” says Qazi. “Breaking the £100 barrier was massive.” Hence why Utter Nutter boasts a clearly defined denim wall, where under-hanging “legs” dressed in each style (and styled with different footwear including G H Bass, Grenson, Superga, Converse, Clae and Vans) are the neat piles of sizes and washes. It’s very easy to navigate. You simply see the fit and wash you like and dive straight into the sizes underneath – or get the advice and expertise from the well-advised and product-savvy staff. Qazi says they even do the odd sizes such as 31 and 33, and different leg lengths, too. “If you can’t get a 28/30 in a Diesel shop, you’ll be able to get it in here,” he says. It’s that kind of service that makes Utter Nutter the ultimate denim destination for Essex’s lads about town. “Chinos are dead, but coloured denim is selling well,” says Qazi. “Our strength in denim is in the carrot-fit and slim/skinny fits. Diesel calls the aforementioned Darron fit a ‘slim’ fit but, for us, it’s actually ‘regular’, because everything is getting slimmer and slimmer.” Qazi says he did buy into the whole chino thing, but he didn’t sell them very well. “I think the problem was that we are known for denim,” he says. “And we were selling the same quantity of denim through the ‘chino phase’. But what we’re seeing now is denim peaking again. We’re getting people buying three pairs in one go, at £120-£130 a pop. They want to replenish their wardrobes and they’ve probably had enough of chinos because they see everyone wearing them, and you can pick up a pair for £20 on the high street.” The problem with chinos, according to Qazi, is that they are “not a special product” and he says “there is nothing you can do to them to make them premium.” Qazi refers to Dockers trying by making a “one-year”, “three-year” and “five-year” aged-look product. “But it looked like you had dug out an old pair of chinos. It didn’t have the depth that you can get with denim with the fits and washes,” he says.
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Kashif Qazi
retailing at £65, this season.” Qazi says they still have a good business, too, with Franklin & Marshall “because of its unique Essex-ness.” He says he believes it was a big hit in Essex before it was elsewhere, and that you can still get both Father and Son coming in and buying a full tracksuit. “That’s not something you get in many places,” he says. “But that’s Essex for you. There is the mentality of all wanting to be the same. A few years ago, for example, we had 100 people on a waiting list for a Franklin & Marshall tracksuit in the run-up to Christmas.” Perhaps a surprise to Utter Nutter’s offer is French Connection. “I don’t see anything wrong with it,” says Qazi. “They’ve got one of our bestselling shirts this season, selling at £50.” It’s Qazi calls South Street “one of the traditional white with a small button-down collar in a stretch-cotton fabric. “As long as it’s not got a French high streets,” and you can see why. “They’ve kept a Connection logo on it, despite most of my other lot of the original shops going back years,” he says. non-denim product being logo-driven, it’s getting a Choice is Utter Nutter’s only real competition in Romford, but it seems each have their target markets good reaction. Also, a slightly older customer maybe doesn’t want a logo now.” Qazi says he bought and regular customer base identified. “We’re all French Connection in to sit next to Scotch & Soda. about denim,” says Qazi. In fact, a good 70 per cent “We’re specialising in the product being special, of overall sales at Utter Nutter, which trades online rather than the price.” He’s also giving Merc’s too at www.utter-nutter.co.uk, come from its denim harringtons an Essex test-run. offer. “It’s rare for someone to buy from us and not Qasi says that now, “at last”, the smarter look have a denim product within their purchase.” trend is creeping in, and he’s got roll-necks under Utter Nutter actually moved to its new tweed blazers, and shirts and ties with waistcoats, premises on South Street just three months ago, just naturally to team with the customer’s choice of up from the old shop but now one door away from denim. “We don’t do trousers,” says Qazi. Marks & Spencer and opposite Foot Asylum – When it comes to the denim, style names improved footfall being the ultimate aim. Other brands it does well with include Farah, that are easy for customers to remember are also a key factor, none more so than with Nudie, and Qazi Fred Perry, Lyle & Scott, Franklin & Marshall and cites Thin Finn, Tape Ted and Grim Tim as popular Diesel’s non-denim collection, though the number choices. “With Nudie, it’s all about the slimmer one favourite in the staff’s eyes, including Qazi, is silhouettes,” he says, saying the new-in, stretchy, Carhartt. In fact, all the staff sport Carhartt work shirts, product placement being an easy but effective super-fitted, black Tight Long John is currently the thing for a brand to do in Qazi’s eyes. He says, “If any favourite with his staff. It may not be the choice of too many of Utter Nutter’s customers just yet, brand wants the best advertising, they need to put some product on the guys working in the shops. But though girls are also buying them, but Qazi says they give them stuff they will wear – not just what you’ve are showing them the way, and they could really catch on. “You wouldn’t think twice if you saw that got left in the warehouse. We will sell these shirts jean on a mannequin in Liberty,” he says. “We try to we’re all wearing like you won’t believe. In fact, we’ve already done three repeats on the Master shirt, break people’s attitudes in Romford by showing
them something new as well. It might not be our bestseller, but it may become it. It’s all about passion. As an independent retailer, if you don’t have passion, you’ve got nothing; you’ve lost it.” You get the feeling Qazi has passion in abundance.•
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MWB online
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Promotion
mwb-online.co.uk The essential resour menswear industry. Mwb-online.co.uk is the essential free business tool, bringing you industry advice, up-to-the-minute news, insight features and trend information at the click of a button. Taking MWB’s successful formula into a brand new online format, the website covers every aspect of the menswear industry. Frequently updated news across a broad range of topics will help you keep your finger on the pulse, while a variety of unique content that complements MWB’s comprehensive industry and style reports bring you rounded, in-depth knowledge and information. Brand spotlights, short-order specials and trend overviews are just some of the must-read features, all of which will aid your buying decisions and help your in-store offer. The Retail section provides further vital inspiration, covering everything from visual merchandising ideas to advice and suggestions from the brains behind some of the UK’s most successful independents. Articles in the People section, meanwhile, focus on the movers and shakers across childrenswear to give you the inside track on what makes them tick and how they stay ahead of the game.
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October/November12
MWB online
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People
People
A pint with... Dean Batty Co-owner, Cro’Jack
We’ve recently opened a shop on London’s Monmouth Street, off the Seven Dials area, because I think we’re ready. We’ve been up-and-running for around three and a half years so we’ve got a few seasons under out belt. It seems we’re more popular abroad than we are in the UK at the moment. I don’t know the reasoning behind it, but the Seven Dials area is commercial and attracts a lot of tourists. I feel it’s right for what we’re doing. I’d rather be in the West End than East London. We launched in the US last season with an old-school distributor and agency called Components, who work with the Masons brand from Italy. They got us into Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom and specialist independent stores. Opening the shop has encouraged me to wider the Cro’Jack offer. We’re not just doing jackets now; we’re doing trousers, jeans, shirts, sweatshirts, T-shirts and accessories – a full collection. And everything is made in England, which is our unique selling point. We’ve got another facility in Leicester, which is making fantastic jeans. We are also going to retail a Japanese selvedge denim – made in England – for £100. It’s incredible. I was quoted in MWB a couple of years ago saying we would be able to do this in the latter part of 2012 and, bingo, we’re doing it. We’re looking at wholesaling them for £35-£40. I’ve got a handful of accounts that I enjoy working with, and those guys will get the opportunity to buy into the jeans first. We’ve got a little bit of stock on top of the order we made for our own store. There are two fits; a regular and a tapered look, which everyone seems to be focused on. There are also two washes – a rinse and a vintage wash – as well as a raw denim. The vintage wash is authentic-looking. You’ve got to get it bang on. It’s either brilliant or rubbish. It can look naff, especially the pseudo “whisking”. We think we’ve perfected the wash and it looks pretty cool. The washing facility is in Leicester, too. The jackets, shirts, sweatshirts and some of the trousers are made in Wolverhampton. It’s a clever factory. We can make sportswear quite easily. We’ll always manufacture for other people, too, because we have over 150 employees working in the factory.
Life, 15-17 Old Bank Street, Manchester Life is a store I admire and respect. It has stood the test of time while retaining iconic brands such as Stone Island and CP Company which, in these difficult times, and in a city like Manchester, is an achievement in itself. They’re also not afraid to adapt to the times, and I’m delighted with the business we do on Weekend Offender and MQT with Life. The buyer, Tim Lancaster, has a strong and open relationship with the shop floor, and listens to what’s working and what customers are asking for, meaning they consistently meet the needs of their consumer. The store has a vintage feel and the space lends itself to the product. It’s also got a relaxed atmosphere, making for a comfortable shopping experience. The staff know the product and have a good bond with their customers. I think one of the main reasons they’ve stuck around during such difficult times is because of repeat business and the service they offer. The window displays are strong and interact with brands to showcase the stock. Last year, we did a window display featuring a limited-edition Weekend Offender fixed-gear bike. It was used for an in–store competition with great success.
Jon Poll, owner, Agent C
I got involved with the factory around four years ago. I got on with the guy who owns it, Daljit Mehat, and he asked me to bring some business in, so I did. Then we got together and decided to do our own thing – and that was the start of Cro’Jack. It’s a 50/50 partnership.
My favourite shop
Ben Sherman welcomed music label Acid Jazz to its Mod-ular Blanc concept space at its Commercial Street store last month. Here is a snapshot of the event where mods and music lovers came together.
October/November12
People
How did you get into retail? I started as a sales advisor in the womenswear department of a Knightsbridge department store and soon got nominated to be stepped up to management level. After four years, I accepted a job offer from Browns. I am now working across management, buying, product design with capsule collection design and retail system with data installation. Tell us about your funniest customer: My funniest customer is a rock star from the US. He enjoys being with us because we protect him and keep him under wraps. Even our ladies’ team doesn’t know about him. What is the biggest faux pas you’ve made? There were a couple of tiny faux pas, but nothing big enough to cause any real damage or losses. What is your favourite memory of your career so far? On the shop floor, on three different occasions, I captured credit card fraudsters. One involved a man on the Police’s Most Wanted list.
Trade secrets
mwb
Mei Chung Men’s buying director, Browns
Where do you feel most at home? Spending the afternoon at Punta Galera in Ibiza. You wouldn’t want to be anywhere else. Ben Mackinlay Smith, director, Plastic Guns
My childhood home, which is why I named the brand 2568, as it was the street number of the house I grew up in. Lorenzo Castellon, founder, 2568 Shoes
I feel most at home in a house on a cliff filled with treasure and antiques, where I play Monopoly – preferably winning – in front of a roaring fire. I also like to be surrounded by horses and puppies. Jenny Schwarz, creative director, Jenny Schwarz menswear
I grew up on the Isle of Wight, where my father was a vet. The call of home still runs deep when I am on the Isle of Wight ferry on my way there. Home now, though, is in the Surrey Hills, and I wouldn’t swap it. Andrew Peters, managing director, Kooga
They say home is where the heart is, and our heart lies somewhere between the passions that drive us and the ones that we love. John Wang, founder and designer, Prolific 54
I sometimes try to take mental pictures, often with soundtracks and “smell-o-vision”. I feel most at home solo or “two-up” on my motorcycle with my wife Pamela riding pillion, breezing along a sinuous piece of tarmac. David McClemont, sales director, Hawick Knitwear
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Simon says I’m sure you’ve all received them. Annoying, funny, baffling. The usual reaction is, “Who on earth would fall for that?” and then remember that many people do. I’m talking about scam emails, usually from Nigeria, promising untold riches merely for helping to deposit $56m from some trade minister’s deceased cousin. I can remember when they first came in letter form in the late 80s, and many people did fall for them. A client of mine, who shall remain nameless, narrowly avoided parting with their bank details after several weeks of letter correspondence. Only at the last minute was crisis averted. Anyway, the reason I bring it up is that I received a particularly unpleasant Nigerian email recently. It came from a “prominent Lagos lawyer” who needed my urgent assistance in the development of a hotel and leisure complex that was to be funded by “surplus oil revenues”. None of this is unusual so far but, bear in mind, gentle readers, that I have just turned 50. Mr Jonathan Adibola went on “as a senior citizen, Mr Carter...” Needless to say, at that point, any interest in building time shares with stolen oil money evaporated. Apart from turning 50, our newest store in Crystal Palace has celebrated it’s first full month of trading. And what a good month it was. It is trading at double its budget and, of course, immediately has me thinking, where next. Almost at the same time, our second franchised store opened in Wendover. The team that opened in Great Missenden last autumn are spreading their wings and, before Christmas, we’ll have another franchised store in Ilkley. The Empire grows. I’m thinking of turning the basement in Mayfair into a bunker map room, and pushing small accessories across the UK while shouting orders at terrified generals. Joking aside, the success of these satellite stores is interesting. It does prove that you can make a highly viable business model in less obvious locations. In a way, it’s almost back to old-fashioned principles of retailing – understand where your demographic lives and likes to shop locally, pick a town with no competition and offer great service. The customers will embrace you if you embrace them. In Crystal Palace, there is a feeling of having been “adopted” by the local community, and I love that. We have a working fireplace in the shop, and I’m actually looking forward to the cold weather so I can pile it up with logs, drink mugs of tea and chat to customers while stirring embers. While in the meantime, the rest of my business drifts rudderless into the oblivion. It’s a nice dream, but it also reminds me that despite a wholesale brand now sold across 35 countries and every major store, there is still a part of me that has a passion for the shop floor. I hope I never lose it. Sim o n Carte r is the CEO o f the e po nym o us b rand and re tail sto re s.
mwb
October/November12
Opinion
The Bottomley line Is time up for the timepiece? According to a new Mintel report, watches are falling out of favour, with as many as a quarter of us preferring to use our mobile phones or computers to tell the time. That’s apparently up from 18 per cent just a year ago, suggesting the clock is ticking rather quickly against the old “kettle” (kettle and hob – fob, deriving from the old use of fob watches, or pocket watches as they’re perhaps better known). My 16-year-old son owned a watch once, but never wore it and then left it at school over the summer holidays and it was never to be seen again. Was he bothered? Not one bit, but he is from a generation that has grown up with a mobile phone in one hand and an Xbox control in the other. And even I got used to being without my smart Simon Carter watch, when the battery went. I’ve finally got a new battery and have started wearing it again after a good six months without it, but it’s taking some time (no pun intended) to get used to wearing it again. The whole of the summer, when a watch is usually on full display because you’re normally in short sleeves, was spent using my phone to tell the time. It became the norm, and now I’m diving in my pocket for my phone to tell the time, even though I’ve got my watch on. Of course, you can’t beat the look and styling of a good watch. We wouldn’t turn our noses up at a Rolex for Christmas, after all. But, apparently, among the under-35s, the proportion relying on digital devices for timekeeping is even higher than 25 per cent, at a whopping four in ten. The trend is expected to continue, so maybe watches need to become more technical and have multiple functions as well as telling the time (making the tea perhaps?), such as the solar watch that Seiko has developed that can identify the time zone, date and time using the global network of GPS signals. Sounds impressive, whatever it is. But I bet it doesn’t look as good as 007’s Omega Seasmaster despite all the GPS it can get it hands on. And you couldn’t see Bond fumbling around for his Sony Xperia T-Mobile phone to count down the seconds before another fatal explosion now, could you? Let’s keep it ticking!
mwb deputy editor Tom Bottomley: our man on the inside of menswear The rise of the £100K Pom We’ve all heard of the £10 Pom; the term given to describe British subjects who migrated to Australia after World War II and who were charged just a tenner for their fare as part of Australia’s Populate or Perish policy to boost the population and supply workers for the country’s booming industries. But now there is apparently an influx of specialist British retailers being tempted by the Australian market and salaries as high as £100K. Apparently, their retail sector is crying out for specifically British talent to improve their industry. UK retailing is seen as one of the most competitive retail markets globally, so good UK retailers, although often having a hard time in their domestic market, are perceived to be able to add significant value in a less developed market. Basically, we’ve been through the retail grinder, so anything else is going to seem like a holiday. The retail market is more buoyant in Australia thus the opportunity to make a big difference is significant. The trend for UK executives to go there has increased as the Australian retail market has become more competitive and sophisticated. And that’s not just in BBQ season. Apparently, retail has never been seen as a particularly attractive industry to enter in Australia so, traditionally, it has not always attracted the top talent. Retail search firm Barracuda has been searching on behalf of the Australian market for the past five years, placing over 125 executives there, and demand is increasing all the time. Ninety per cent of the people placed there have stayed, proving how attractive the work and lifestyle there can be. Nice work if you can get it. Now, where’s that stubby?
Regent Street fashion strut They always seem to be at it on Regent Street – anything to raise the shopping profile. It’s no bad thing, of course, and the latest idea – during London Fashion Week – was to inspire people walking down the street to flaunt their own style, and get their picture taken and uploaded to www.regentstreetonline.com for a chance to win £150 to spend on the new Ted Baker collection. Even just by voting for a favourite “street style” gave a chance to win £100 worth of men’s or women’s clobber. Okay, that doesn’t go far these days, but we believe it was quite a tidy little promotion for Ted as well. Anything to get people spending again has got to be a good thing.
To read more from Tom visit the MWB blog at mwb-online.co.uk
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October/November12
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Directory
December
Bread & Butter Berlin
Exhibit A The full rundown of the shows to visit this autumn/winter 2013
Preview: Bread & Butter The new line-up and fresh names at the Berlin show
Preview: Pitti Uomo MWB looks at menswear, Italian style
Date to remember Profiling some of the key retailers celebrating an anniversary this year
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October/November12
People
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Q&A Oskar Sommarlund Name of business: Denim Demon Business title: Co-founder, brand manager Date of birth: 21 May 1977 Place of birth: Stockholm, Sweden. Now lives: Stockholm, Sweden. Career history: Ten years on the shop floor, sales rep for various brands in the fashion industry.
What do you consider to be the defining moment of your career? December 19 2006, when Denim Demon delivered 286 pairs of jeans to Solo, a chain of stores in Sweden. They sold out in three weeks and were the starting point of a tough but beautiful journey with our own brand. Things have developed at a faster rate since then. What qualities do you look for in the people you work with? Those who are honest, service-minded and energetic. People need to understand the importance of service, give energy to the rest of the team and be able to have an honest and straight conversation.
Oskar Sommarlund, pictured right, with brother Anton.
What is the best thing about what you do? The ongoing search for the best quality there is. The main goal with our products is to give the best available quality for the money spent – we are working hard to improve our quality in terms of fabrics, trimmings and threads. We also want to be able to make a living out of our dream. We have worked hard to get to where we are. And the worst? The working week for us consists of seven days, compared to the regular five. It doesn’t matter if you are away on vacation or what day it is; the list of things to do is consistent all year round. But you learn to live like that. If I wasn’t doing this, I would be…? Working on something totally different. I can’t see myself working for another brand in this industry. During the five years that we’ve been doing this, we’ve become such a big part of Denim Demon that people would have a hard time accepting you worked for another brand. If I could choose freely, I would work with human beings, preferably kids – if I had to stop doing this, that is. What is the best decision you’ve ever made? To quit my day job and give Denim Demon 100 per cent of my full attention. It’s been tough, and still is, but I am enjoying every moment of it. Who is your mentor? I don’t have a mentor at the moment, but I am looking for someone. So if anyone out there would like to take a 35-year-old entrepreneur in the denim business under his/her wing, they are welcome to contact me. Which icon do you admire the most? That’s a tough one. Too many to write down… What are your favourite shopping haunts? As I mostly wear my own brand, I don’t go shopping very often. But there are a few places that are inspiring to visit such as VMC in Zurich,
Burg & Schild in Berlin, and Mr Mudd and Mr Gold in Stockholm to name a few. What era do you think produced the most memorable styles? The 40s and 50s in terms of denim. Before that, there were no shape to jeans. I would say mid-40s if I had to choose more specifically. If you were an item of clothing, what would it be? A pair of jeans. What is your idea of perfect happiness? The perfect mix of work, private time with the family and travels. What is your most treasured possession? My son, Harry. He’s two years old and quite a character. If I have to choose something bought, I would say my watch. It’s a Rolex Sea-Dweller that I bought with my first bonus as a sales rep. If you could visit one destination in the world, where would it be? Right now, I would love to go to Tokyo. I’ve never been there. If you could live in the shoes of one person for a day, who would it be and what would you do? I would love to be in my wife’s shoes to experience how I am to live with – I think it would be a lesson…
What is the one thing people are least likely to know about you? My secret dream is to move to my home county, Jämtland, Sweden, to live in a small house in the woods. I have no idea what I would do there, but the thought of it attracts me. What is the worst present you’ve ever had? I was 15 years old and listened to Metallica, Therapy, Guns N Roses, Megadeth and so son, and I got a Beatles CD from my older brother. Right there and then, I didn’t understand a thing. A couple of years later, it was one of the favourite CDs in my collection, so he was ahead of my time. My worst present became one of my best. What invention could you not live without? Burgers. I love burgers. Don’t know what I would treat myself with if they didn’t exist. What is your life philosophy? Treat other people the same way you want them to treat you. What would the title of your autobiography be? Oskar Sommarlund, He Did His Best.