WWB Magazine

DECEMBER 2012 — ISSUE 222 WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk

£6.95

— WHAT WOMEN WANT Camel Active’s first foray into womenswear —

— INDEPENDENT SPIRIT Indies discuss the key issues affecting retail —

— SHOW FEVER The key exhibitions for autumn/winter 2013 —

— NEW YEAR’S RESOLUTIONS Industry players share their expectations for 2013 —

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07 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

CONTENTS —

REGULARS

FEATURES

FASHION

9 EDITORS COMMENT — 10 NEWS — 14 BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear — 16 TALKING POINT — 56 RETAIL FORUM The latest news from the industry — 59 ADVICE — 62 THE FINAL WORD How do you switch off after a long day at work?

— FRONT COVER WRANGLER —

18 Q&A With Camel Active’s Eric Sperber — 30 STATE OF INDEPENDENCE Key indies join WWB for a round table discussion — 34 “INDIES NEED TO START WORKING COLLECTIVELY” Paul Turner-Mitchell shares his views on the future of independents — 37 INDIES ARE DOING IT FOR THEMSELVES How local independents turned around Tewkesbury — 40 EXHIBITION CALENDAR The shows not to miss for a/w 13 — 54 THE BIGGER PICTURE Key players review the year that was —

22 STYLE FILE — 24 10 OF THE BEST Leather pieces — 27 CASE IN POINT IPad and laptop cases — 28 FASHION RADAR — 38 JUMPING AHEAD The pre-collections for a/w 13 — 50 ARTIST’S STATEMENT A first look at Scoop International — 52 BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN WWB previews next month’s show —

09 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012 Editor Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com — Contributors Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Kirkpatrick laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — Online editor Suzanna Bain suzanna@ras-publishing.com — Fashion writer Natalie Dawson natalie@ras-publishing.com — Editorial assistant Carey Whitwam carey.whitwam@ite-exhibitions.com — Sub editor Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — Design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — Senior advertising sales manager Mina Parmar mina@ras-publishing.com — Sales executive Jasprit Sihra jasprit@ras-publishing.com — Subscriptions Katie Brook katie@ras-publishing.com — Production director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — Commercial director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com — Reprographics/printing ImageData Group 01482 652323 — WWB is published 11 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 — Copyright © 2012 WWB Magazine Limited.

All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

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RAS Publishing is an ITE Group PLC company A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication WWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include MWB, Footwear & Fashion Extras and CWB.

COMMENT —

AS 2012 IS COMING TO A CLOSE, MOST OF US WILL HAVE MIXED FEELINGS ABOUT THE YEAR THAT WAS, AND MANY MAY BE LOOKING AHEAD AT THE NEXT 12 MONTHS WITH SOME TREPIDATION. —

This year has undoubtedly been tough, and there is little to suggest that 2013 won’t be bringing more of the same.

But, if any proof was needed that fashion indies are resilient, it’s in this issue, which is packed with affirmative stories of indies turning adversity into victory. For instance, last month, I invited a handful of independents from across the north of England to a round table discussion, where we chatted through many issues that are currently dominating their agendas, as well as the general bugbears of being a fashion retailer. You can read all about it on page 30. One of the key findings of the day was that the attendants have had their best season in many, thanks to careful stock control, clever marketing and doing what they do best – putting their customers first.

The same goes for the small town of Tewkesbury, where a group of proactive indies pooled together to make a change in their struggling town centre – which had been snubbed as a Portas Pilot – putting it back on the local shopping map and creating a real buzz about the town (page 37).

We also asked a number of industry players to review the last 12 months and give us their predictions and New Year’s resolutions for 2013. And again, it’s independents who are shining examples, having accomplished lots this

year and who are looking to the months ahead with defiant confidence.

So while there is no doubt that all of this optimism is rooted in a lot of hard work, dedication and determination, it is a positive picture. Of course, I am not glossing over the fact that this year has seen many closures of independents, too. Nevertheless, I believe it’s important to focus on the positives and on what can be achieved, not what can’t. The economy won’t be miraculously better next year; chances are, the weather will remain as unpredictable as it has been (we are in Britain, after all!), and issues such as business rates will remain, but indies up and down the country are proving that you can thrive in any circumstance.

I wish you all a prosperous Christmas trading period, and will catch up with you next year, with hopefully more success stories. As always, don’t forget to share your views – and accomplishments – with us by emailing or tweeting @wwbmagazine.

Isabella Griffiths, editor

10 WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk — DECEMBER 2012

NEWS —

RETAILERS HOPEFUL THAT TILLS WILL BE RINGING THIS CHRISTMAS Amid predictions that seasonal sales will be three per cent up on last year, retailers are hoping for a lucrative Christmas season.

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Increasing consumer confidence, falling unemployment and decreasing pressure on incomes will contribute towards a buoyant Christmas season for retailers, according to retail analyst Mintel. Its latest research predicts that seasonal sales will be three per cent up in direct comparison with last Christmas, citing a strong start to the autumn season and stable retail sales throughout 2012 as positive indicators for December.

“The pattern of retail trade through the year follows a predictable pattern,” says Mintel’s director of retail research, Richard Perks. “Retail sales growth has averaged around three per cent so far this year and, as the pressures on consumers are easing, there is no reason to suggest the rate cannot be maintained. The run-up to Christmas is also starting better than last year and, while pressure is not off consumers, most factors are more positive for 2012.”

In Cambridge, Pippa Sandison, owner of womenswear indie Boudoir Femme, is expecting to be in line with Mintel’s growth predictions, following a poor October but stronger November like-for-like on last year. “We have budgeted for just over three per cent growth, but times are challenging, so here’s hoping,” she says. “Trade is unpredictable at the moment, but we are quietly confident of a strong finish to the month.” Apart from a one-off 10 per cent

promotion, Sandison says she is selling at full price and is determined to not go into Sale before 27 December. “We are not dictated by the high street, but we generally mirror our neighbouring stores’ sales launches, which will be on 27 December.”

Multichannel retailing is an approach many retailers have adopted in a bid to maximise the potential of the Christmas trading period. With internet sales expected to tip £4.6bn this year, according to online sales tracker IMRG, an online arm of any retail operation is increasingly an essential investment for savvy retailers. IMRG has also found that year-on-year m-commerce – shopping via a smartphone and tablet – has risen by 261 per cent, and predicts that around 20 per cent of online orders will be made via a mobile phone this Christmas.

Claire Wright, owner of Gemini in Stratford-upon-Avon, is among those indies maximising multichannel, with the store’s website having seen strong growth in comparison to the bricks-and-mortar shop.

“Our online trade is almost 54 per cent up, while in-store trade is 22 per cent down,” says Wright, who is running several promotions online and in-store to maximise Christmas trade.

“Online accounts for 48 per cent of our business, and we are driving for it to become

“We have budgeted for just over three per cent growth, but times are challenging, so here’s hoping”

75 per cent by 2014,” she continues. “It’s a response to declining footfall in our in-store trade since 2008 and a conscious decision. We have a strong email campaign, which backs up our in-store mail-out and promotions. We are also running an online competition throughout Advent, while in-store, we have shopping evenings. Furthermore, we go into Sale on 11 December with initial markdowns at 15 and 25 per cent, and a small amount of dead stock at 50 per cent. We have followed the same strategy for 10 years, as we feel we get better margins by reducing product pre-Christmas rather than waiting and having to mark everything down by 50 per cent to compete with the multiples.”

11 WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk — DECEMBER 2012

NEWS —

FARFETCH LAUNCHES EXCLUSIVE COLLABORATIONS Online fashion marketplace Farfetch.com has collaborated with four creatives on a series of exclusive giftwraps to celebrate the festive season, including design duo Meadham Kirchhoff, photographer Melinda Gibson, artist and DJ Margot Bowman and set designer and illustrator Gary Card.

Each creative was commissioned to produce an exclusive illustration, which has been transformed into a series of festive giftwraps and forms the basis of the e-tailer’s Unwrap Christmas concept.

Elements of the idea include an on-site and social media based animated game, Pass the Parcel, where customers can play to win daily designer gifts and share with their friends to gain more entries into a prize draw to win £3,000 to spend at Farfetch.com.

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LITTLE MISTRESS ROLLS OUT SEPARATES RANGE Fast-fashion brand Little Mistress has opened a new UK factory and employed two senior designers, increasing the design team from two to seven, to accommodate the launch of the brand’s first separates collection, which is set to drive the rapid expansion of the label further.

Little Mistress is among the fastest growing young fashion dress labels, available through the likes of Asos, Bank, Very, House of Fraser and a host of independents, with the launch of separates, including tops, trousers, jackets, skirts and printed denim, set for s/s 13.

The UK factory is said to be a key step in making sure the label can respond faster to capitalise on trends and repeat designs demanded by end consumers. “We have had specific requests from most of our key partners to expand into this arena, so we would be foolish not to deliver an offer,” says Mark Ashton, MD of Little Mistress.

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JANUARY EDITION OF CHIC CANCELLED Accessories trade exhibition Chic has announced the cancellation of its January 2013 show due to unfortunate family circumstances.

The decision to cancel the 34th edition of the fashion accessories, gift and travel goods show was taken because its organiser felt unable to devote the necessary time to make the event successful for both its exhibitors and visitors.

“We are a close family and a family run business, and our current circumstances mean the January Chic show would not get the care and attention required to be effective for both exhibitors and visitors,” says organiser Mark Greenhalgh. The next edition of Chic will take place on 7-9 July 2013.

— MY-WARDROBE APPOINTS NEW FASHION DIRECTOR Premium e-tailer My-Wardrobe.com has appointed Carmen Borgonovo as fashion director. The former senior style editor of British Harper’s Bazaar will join the company at the start of next year to lead the buying team, replacing buying and merchandising director Luisa De Paula, who is leaving the business after five years in the role. With a focus on international expansion, Borgonovo will be tasked with sourcing new international designers and creating a unique curation of each collection.

— ESCADA TO VENTURE INTO E-COMMERCE German luxury fashion house Escada will launch its first e-commerce store in the New Year.

So far, the brand’s products have only been available online via transactional websites of selected trade partners. Its own online store will be offering both product lines, Escada and Escada Sport, as well as accessories. The design of the Escada online shop will be sophisticated, modern and in line with the brand DNA. It will also be available for the usage on tablets.

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12 WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk — DECEMBER 2012

NEWS —

MOBILE SHOPPING TO DOMINATE THIS CHRISTMAS Online retailers are expecting strong spending as the Christmas shopping peak approaches, with consumers forecast to spend £4.6bn online over the first two weeks in December, according to e-retail analysts IMRG and Capgemini.

Mobile devices will take up a significant share of this spending, with just under a billion of that figure, £920m, expected to be made via smartphones and tablets, after the popularity of these channels has accelerated over the year. In the first quarter of 2012, just 8.2 per cent of e-tail sales were made through a mobile device. By the end of the fourth quarter, this figure is expected to have reached around 20 per cent.

“We are seeing a shift in the way consumers interact with brands online,” says Tina Spooner, chief information officer at IMRG. “While it is still common for consumers to browse the shops at weekends before making the final purchase online on Monday lunchtime, we are increasingly seeing the popularity of ‘second screening’, where people browse on their mobiles in front of the TV. We can expect to see the 20 per cent share continue to grow in 2013.”

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J CREW TO OPEN IN LONDON US store group J Crew is set to open its first store outside of North America on London’s Regent Street.

The retailer will take up a 17,000 sq ft location on the corner of Regent Street and New Burlington Street, which is currently under development, in late 2013.

The store will house separate women’s and men’s stores, each with its own designated entrance, as well as Crewcuts, the chain’s kidswear outlet. The UK debut forms part of J Crew’s international expansion, having launched into over 100 global markets in late March through its e-commerce website, www.jcrew.com.

“London was an easy decision – it’s a place where people understand and respect the integrity of great style and design,” says Millard Drexler, chairman and chief executive of J Crew Group. “We share this appreciation and are excited to introduce J Crew to more customers throughout the UK.” —

GLOBAL FASHION MANAGEMENT HOSTS WORKSHOPS Business consultancy Global Fashion Management will be running a series of workshops over the new few months, focusing on key operational issues such as vision and strategy, staff motivation and problem solving.

The workshops will start in February, and are aimed at fashion businesses. For more details, prices and venues call 020 8576 6233.

— VIRTUAL TAPE MEASURE TO REVOLUTIONISE ONLINE CLOTHES SHOPPING An innovative web-based system that takes detailed measurements of the body could revolutionise online clothes shopping. The consumer would download software which, in conjunction with their webcam or smartphone, works like a virtual tape measure, taking accurate waist, hip, chest and other measurements, advising the user on which sized garment to buy. The software is being developed by the London College of Fashion and computer vision experts at the University of Surrey, and in collaboration with body-mapping specialist Bodymetrics and digital creative agency Guided. The new system is expected to launch within two years.

— ANNE HORTON EXITS HOOPERS Anne Horton, former MD of independent department store group Hoopers, has left the business in a surprise exit last month. According to Hoopers, the move is part of a restructure by the owners, who “have taken the commercial decision to restructure the management control of the business.” Katie Woodward, current chairman and daughter of the owners, will be taking a more operative role, and her new position will be that of executive chairman, effectively combining the role of both chairman and managing director. Debra Angus, Hoopers’ current homewares buyer, will be taking on a new role as stores and buying controller. In addition, Stewart Woodward is appointed executive assistant and, as such, will be assisting both Woodward and Angus in their new roles.

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13 WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk — DECEMBER 2012

NEWS —

SHOPLIFTING AND FRAUD COST £1BN OVER CHRISTMAS

LOVE FROM AUSTRALIA LAUNCHES CUSTOMISABLE COLLECTION

UK retailers stand to lose £1bn over Christmas this year as a result of shoplifting, dishonest employees and vendor and distribution losses, a new study by the Centre for Retail Research has revealed.

Luxury sheepskin brand Love from Australia has launched MyLFA, a new customisable collection, allowing customers to choose the style and shape of the shoe, as well as from a selection of printed and plain leather uppers up to the finer details of straps and buttons.

The Shoplifting for Christmas 2012 report states that shoplifting will contribute £522m to the overall figure, while £431m will be lost through employee theft and £47m via vendor and distribution losses, which constitutes an overall increase of 3.4 per cent over the same period last year.

Women’s clothing and fashion accessories has topped the list of product categories most likely to be stolen, only overtaken by alcohol, which is in first place, with toys, perfume and health and beauty gift packs, electronic devices such as smart phones and tablet computers, toiletries for men, DVD gift sets and game consoles also making up the list.

“The Christmas season is an especially attractive time for criminals,” says Professor Joshua Bamfield, director of the Centre for Retail Research. “Thieves take advantage of busy stores to steal high-value, high-demand goods.

As a result, retailers face a big threat from professional and semi-professional thieves, many of whom steal goods with the intention of re-selling them. Organised retail crime is a major concern for retailers.”

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The new range will be launched for s/s 13 and will feature an online tool on the brand’s website, with style choices including a wedge, open and closed toe, as well as a ballet shoe.

The collection builds on the label’s signature style and uses soft lamb’s leather, which will be available in six plain finishes and a limited selection of printed skins and metallics.

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DEBENHAMS REVIVES OSSIE CLARK DESIGN The style of iconic 60s designer Ossie Clark is being revived for s/s 13, with Ossie Clark London set to launch through 45 concessions in Debenhams from February.

Created by designer Nicolas Georgiou, the new range will offer brand new designs and unreleased vintage styles, remastered for 2013.

Price points will be accessible, with the line offering day-to-night pieces, from sizes eight to 18. Hero designs include a cropped snake biker jacket, military blazer and halterneck maxi dress.

“We chose to work with Debenhams for many reasons, not least because it is the UK’s largest department store and provides the widest national coverage,” says Marshall Doctors, CEO of Ossie Clark London. “The customer demographic at the department store is a perfect fit with the brand’s ethos. We’re confident that this fresh collaborative approach will play dividends. This up-to-date twist on one of the 60s’ most iconic designer names, coupled with great price points, has to be a winning combination,” says Sarah Savva, Debenhams’ director of external brands.

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NEW LOOK FOR SDEA To mark 65 years of serving the retail display industry, The Shop and Display Equipment Association (SDEA) has updated and redesigned its website, Shopdisplay.org. Highlights include more vibrant colouring and a streamlined homepage for clarification, while the navigation menu has been simplified to ensure retailers, designers and specifiers are linked directly to the suppliers of shop fittings, display products and services they are sourcing.

— BIRA NATIONAL CONFERENCE ANNOUNCED The British Independent Retailers Association (Bira) National Conference 2013 will see key industry figures challenge top UK independents for their views on hot topics such as changing consumer habits, online retail, implementing the Portas Report and the future of the high street.

The conference will take place on 16 May at Cotswold Water Park Four Pillars Hotel in Cirencester.

— RISE IN CREDIT CARD FRAUD FEARED The majority of UK businesses are unwittingly storing customer credit card details on IT equipment, according to analysis carried out by identity protection specialist Ground Labs. Without UK businesses taking steps to safeguard customers’ credit card details, and with an increase in e-commerce and card transactions in the run-up to Christmas, fears are of a rise in credit card fraud.

— ONE YEAR MILESTONE FOR YOURBRANDSPACE Online wholesale showroom YourBrandSpace.com has declared strong month-on-month growth during its first year of trading, culminating in its current portfolio of 150 brands. During its first year of trading, the company has signed up 1,400 retail members, 30 per cent of whom are based outside the UK. Founders Samantha Bleasby and Louisa Valvano are looking to build on the website’s national and international presence throughout 2013 and beyond.

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14 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

PEOPLE —

BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear —

FAST FASHION HOSTS YOUNG DESIGNER PRIZE Sourcing trade show Fast Fashion London recently hosted its first Young Designer competition, awarding Aduu Juma Masudi from the University of Derby the coveted prize. The judging panel, including industry veteran Hilary Alexander (pictured right) and WWB editor Isabella Griffiths (pictured second from left), was impressed by Masudi’s menswear range, which demonstrated both creative flair and commercial potential. “Young designers are the creative force that fuels fashion, and one of the industry’s most valuable assets,” says Alexander.

“We must support them with investment, mentoring and employment, for they are the foundations of the future.”

SIR PAUL SMITH SHARES HIS WISDOM Sir Paul Smith was the keynote speaker at a recent breakfast hosted by the UK Fashion and Textile Association (UKFT) at The Ivy restaurant in London. The designer inspired and entertained some of the top fashion CEOs with his tales of continued success and how he built a global fashion brand. “At Paul Smith, we have grown gently – we had no borrowings and a real ‘jam jar’ mentality; if there is money in the jar, we spend it, if not, we don’t. That is my way,” he shared with the audience.

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A new book celebrating Caroline Charles’ 50 years in fashion has been launched, featuring a collection of working diaries, press cuttings and scrapbook images that chronicle the designer’s career in the industry. Her self-titled book is available now.

TEXTILE FORUM CELEBRATES DECADE OF SUCCESS

Ronen Chen opens second London store Israeli designer Ronen Chen opened its second London store in Temple Fortune last month.

The designer was joined by UK brand director Anne O’Dowd and brand manager Amelia Atkins, (pictured left to right), as well as the stars of Channel 4 reality show Jewish Mum of the Year.

“We opened the first Ronen Chen store near Marble Arch three years ago and it has become a destination store,” says O’Dowd.”We wanted to LIFETIME open our second store ACHIEVEMENT in Temple Fortune, — which has become a Footwear supremo Manolo chic and stylish new Blahnik received the Outstanding Achievement Award at London village and last month’s British Fashion destination area.”

Awards hosted by the British — Fashion Council.

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Fabric exhibition Textile Forum celebrated its 10th anniversary with its busiest edition to date. As part of the celebrations, 14 companies that had shown at least 10 times at the exhibition were presented with framed posters featuring their fabrics as a token of their support. Linda Laderman, co-founder and organiser of Textile Forum, presented the memento to Michael Bristow (pictured) of Michael’s Bridal Fabrics, which has shown twice a year for seven years.

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whErE FashioN ComEs TogEThEr

accessories

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footwear

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lingerie & swimwear

17-19 February 2013, NEC Birmingham To reserve a stand call +44 (0)1484 846069 Find out more and register for your visit at moda-uk.co.uk

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16 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

OPINION —

TALKING POINT Key industry players give their views on the issues affecting womenswear —

WE NEED TO FIGHT BACK AGAINST UNREASONABLE RENTS

FINDING THE “ONE DIRECTION” IN BUSINESS

If you ever have the opportunity to visit Primrose Hill, you will no doubt notice the eclectic mix of shops and how great it is not to see any large high street brand names.

I was watching The X Factor with my 10-year-old daughter, Alissia, recently, and saw the boy band One Direction. It got me thinking about the ever-changing fashion industry and how the challenges facing retailers can draw inspiration from these young boys, whose marketing team has made them a huge success in the last year.

This is mainly because, in Primrose Hill, we are keen to protect the mix of shops not only to ensure the street retains its diverse and unique “independent” feel, but to help this small but well-known shopping street retain its charm and character that we have fought so hard to create. You may recall in the press a few years ago that the Primrose Hill Residents Association fought, petitioned and stopped Starbucks opening on Regents Park Road, no small feat given the size of this global business.

This is all well and good, however as most retailers know, when it comes to renting commercial property, it’s the landlord who holds the key, literally. In a time where the likes of retail expert Mary Portas and co are doing their best to highlight the plight of the local high street and draw attention to the powers that we need to support and encourage new businesses, you would have thought the message might have filtered through to the landlords who continue to demand enormous rents that, in turn, drive rents and rates through the roof.

I realise of course that it might be seen as a risk (to a landlord) to rent out a property to a small business, especially as business in general is extremely tough at the moment but, if we can’t get this message across, it is only a matter of time before our high street will fall under the spell of the big branded companies and drive the small retailer out of business once again.

I draw this to your attention because, as with any niche area, I feel we may be on the verge of falling foul to this ourselves, as one after another vacant shop is rented out, albeit to up market chains, but to chains none the less. There is a message that seems to have been lost, and it’s “like it or lump it” – we are a nation of shopkeepers that are working tirelessly to have a future where, in general, customers prefer to shop on their local high street where they feel they get service, individual selection and a smile. We need to act now to protect what is left of our high streets before every last drop of personality and individuality is squeezed out of us, and all we’re left with are the three Bs – Boring, Branded and Beige.

Not an easy problem to solve, but one that can’t be ignored either – that’s if we don’t want to end up working to keep our landlords in laps of luxury.

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Pamela Shiffer, owner, Pamela Shiffer, London

We are in an increasingly technological age, and even I now have an iPhone and scroll down various Twitter, Facebook and fashion websites.

This doesn’t mean I am not loyal to my favourite stores, however my purchases are more considered than they used to be.

What consumers want varies by age group. But, trying to gauge what direction our customers are taking is more complicated. I have noticed in my own stores and concessions that there has been a big shift towards the more quirky and unusual pieces. We have loyal consumers, but you have to keep them entertained in your stores, on your websites and, most importantly, with your merchandise. I have done six various fashion events this season in customers’ shops, and the atmosphere and buzz created was great. Facebook was updated with pictures, Twitter was used by the customers, and the must-have stripy tunic knit had a waiting list. Women will always love clothes.

Suppliers and retailers are in this together. We all need to support each other and brainstorm new ideas, and that comes via communication. Gone are the days of opening a shop and hoping people will come in. Top of my list of things to focus on next season are marketing, cross-channel and website; customer events; teaming up with other retailers to offer special events - and most importantly, remaining inspired and creative.

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James Lakeland, owner, James Lakeland

10-12 FEBRUARY 2013 SAATCHI GALLERY | LONDON

AUTUMN/WINTER C O L L E C T I O N S scoop-international.com Meredyth Sparks, Roxy, 2008, Digital print on Sintra, 27 pieces, 182 x 171 x 231 cm,(c) Meredyth Sparks, 2008 Image courtesy of the Saatchi Gallery, London

18 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

INTERVIEW —

Q&A

Eric Sperber

The managing director of Camel Active tells Isabella Griffiths why the brand’s newly launched womenswear line is the perfect addition to the lifestyle label’s portfolio.

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19 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

Isabella Griffiths: Camel Active is launching womenswear for a/w 13. How does this fit into your concept and portfolio?

Eric Sperber: Camel Active has had a successful menswear business for the past 40 years, and we have a comprehensive lifestyle offer. It was in 2008 when we first started to talk about how we can expand the concept while staying true to our handwriting and roots, and womenswear was an obvious direction. We did lots of market research and studies into the womenswear sector to define who our target woman would and could be, and we are now ready to unveil our first women’s line. We decided to produce the range in partnership with our existing licence-holder, who has been producing the menswear range for the past 20 years, knows our brand DNA, the structure and the core values of the label. Together, we appointed a new, experienced womenswear team, including a brand manager, designers, pattern cutters and so on, who have been working relentlessly and enthusiastically on getting the inaugural range right. It will initially focus on outerwear, with 17 jacket styles available in three colours each and five leather jackets.

IG: As you say, Camel Active has been a strong player in menswear for 40 years with an existing, comprehensive lifestyle portfolio. Isn’t the launch of womenswear a late move?

ES: I guess you could say that, but it was more a case of making sure we got the timing right. As I say, we’ve been looking into and planning a womenswear range for the best part of four years, and it was important to us to do it right, and not to launch what I would call a “zero collection”, where it’s here one season and gone the next. This is why we are starting small and taking the development slowly. We feel we have now eliminated any potential shortfalls and are able to launch with a strong product that will enhance our portfolio.

IG: One could say you are picking a difficult economic climate. Is it a concern?

ES: Of course we can’t ignore the global economy but, at the same time, I feel there will

INTERVIEW —

“I don’t have a target fIgure In terms of accounts for the fIrst season – we are hopeful that camel actIve womenswear wIll develop successfully – but I would be happy If, after three seasons, we have reached an InternatIonal turnover of €10m.” always be chances and challenges, regardless of the financial environment. I think we are generally ready to enter the womenswear market at this moment in time, because we are confident that we have a good product and a strong collection. If we didn’t, we could have postponed the launch further – we didn’t set out to launch for a/w 13 specifically, we set out to launch when we’re ready, which happens to be this season.

IG: Does the womenswear reflect the same market positioning as menswear?

ES: Our analysis has shown that the market is divided into the classic suppliers on the one end, then there are the value-driven brands, and premium labels on the other end. We are somewhere in between; in our own niche, I suppose. I would class us as upper mainstream, like our menswear business; we don’t play in the price aggressive arena, because we offer much more sophisticated qualities and value, but at the same time we’re not in the premium sector either. Our designs are more sporty, but they also offer little details and design features that define a great product – we have put a lot of attention to detail into it, which is something we had to learn, as menswear is very different.

In terms of our target customer, we are looking at the 30-50 age bracket, similar to our menswear audience. We will be targeting women who are active and sporty, confident in their style, independent, love the outdoors and generally dress in a relaxed way.

IG: Is wholesale your main route to market?

ES: Yes, absolutely. We have decided to appoint the same agents or distributor that we work with on menswear in the relevant export countries [Enya Ltd in the UK], as we feel they are most familiar with our brand and can convey our DNA far better than a new team.

Initially, we will mainly be targeting existing menswear stockists who also have a womenswear offer, as we feel it will complement it well. But, of course, we are also open to new stockists and womenswear-only stores. I don’t have a target figure in terms of accounts for the first season - we are hopeful

that Camel Active womenswear will develop successfully – but we are not complacent, it is a new venture for us. I would, however, be happy if, after three seasons, we have reached an international turnover of ¤10m.

IG: Camel Active womenswear will be initially launched in selected few countries – why is the UK one of them?

ES: We have decided to initially focus on the UK, Germany, France, the Benelux countries, Scandinavia and Finland. We didn’t want to start in all our export markets, but chose to work with the countries we felt we could achieve the best results with initially. The UK is one of our top 10 export markets, and we have a very good existing distribution and infrastructure here already. Besides, despite the economical challenges that the UK undoubtedly has, our business here has been stable over the last few seasons, and we feel that compared to other countries such as Spain, for instance, the economic turnaround will be achieved quicker in the UK, so it will hopefully put us on a good footing for the future.

IG: What are your plans for Camel Active womenswear in the future? Do you see it expanding into a full ready-to-wear range?

ES: That is certainly the plan. We are starting small and focusing on outerwear, but we are hoping to introduce trousers, skirts, tops and so on over the next few seasons, and eventually have a strong women’s lifestyle offer that mirrors our menswear. We trialled the collection with a few selected pieces for s/s 13, and the feedback from our customers was very encouraging, so hopefully this is just the beginning of a lot more to come.

INFORMATION – Camel Active was founded in the 70s, however the brand’s lifestyle offer in the current format and structure was established in 2000 – The brand exports into more than 50 countries through 11,000 points of sale – The label operates 126 stores across Europe (excluding its home market) and 221 shop-in-shops, as well as comprehensive network of wholesale accounts – For a/w 13, Camel Active is launching its first womenswear collection, consisting of 17 jacket styles in three colours each, as well as five leather jacket styles – In the UK, the brand is distributed through Enya Ltd, with showrooms in Manchester and London

20 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

PROMOTION —

  

      

                                                     

  

  

  



   

   

   



21 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

PROMOTION —

  

  

             

             

           

Online 5  36 access f the   days o r yea          

                                 

22 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

FASHION —

STYLE FILE This month’s product news —

STYLE FLASH — London label Elenany’s latest collection offers bold statement pieces, including eye-catching jackets and coats, perfect for cold winter days.

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▲ CHAIN REACTION New US jewellery label KG&Co features simple and yet bold stand-out pieces that have been created to be sympathetic to antique artisan techniques and skills while also utilising today’s advanced production methods. The limited-edition designs are created from 925 silver, as well as gold, rose gold and other anti-allergy finishes.

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ROAD TRIP COUTURE The fifth collection by East London designer Amy Hall, who specialises in hand-crafted knitwear, has been inspired by a road trip to India.

The influences are reflected in a colourful palette that borrows from traditional Indian dressing. Hall has used a variety of hand-knitting techniques, including an open lattice stitch, which pays tribute to fishing nets found in Kerala.

— ▲ ETHICAL LUXURY Having been launched in 2008, eco-label Beaumont Organic has built up a reputation for minimalist style and an effortless cool urban mood while still providing luxury and 100 per cent organic fabrics and textiles. The brand’s s/s 13 line includes classic stripes, cropped tuxedo jackets and easy-to-wear dresses based on organic cotton, jersey and linens.

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Shu & Me creates handmade jewellery using recycled materials from old or unwanted pieces of jewellery, creating exclusive pieces at affordable prices. The brand also offers a diffusion line of cute friendship bracelets, and is looking to launch its wholesale operation this season, supplying boutiques up and down the country.

STYLE FLASH — Making its debut for s/s 13, Oshun is a new contemporary British label with uncomplicated styles that will transcend from day to evening.

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English label Forbes & Lewis has launched with a range of leather accessories that pay homage to world heritage and traditional fashion styles, successfully mixing the old with the new.

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Sewn fabulous New ethical accessories label Sew Lomax offers a range of embellished, hand-finished bags and purses, including penny purses, make-up bags, wash bags, laundry bags, laptop bags and shopping totes. Each piece is designed in London and finished using sustainable materials that are sourced in the UK, along with a quirky, embroidered design.

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

     



24 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

STOCK UPDATE —

THE 10 BEST

LEATHER 02

01

03

SPOTLIGHT — Soften harsh-looking leather pieces by teaming them in-store with lace and fur, as demonstrated at Gucci, Mulberry, Fendi and many more for a/w 12.

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04

05

06

07

SPOTLIGHT — Not limited to typical biker jackets, leather is a hot topic across separates and dresses this season in an array of tones, from classic black and navy to charcoal and oxblood.

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08

09

The trend for leather and leather-look fabrics remains strong, with a number of brands presenting both casual and eveningwear options alongside traditional outerwear pieces this season. WWB selects our key styles, available to get in-store now.

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10

01 Part Two, £124.98, 020 8875 5801 02 Bandolera, £67.50, 07769 700037 03 Moka London, £117, 020 7384 6150 04 MiH Jeans, £300, 020 7349 9030 05 L2 Mae, £246, 07713 031730

06 Schott, £130, 07957 247411 07 Emma Louise London, £150, 01707 657027 08 Twist & Tango, £64, 07930 539700 09 Firetrap, £24, 020 8753 000 10 Beloved, £21, 020 7636 6868

27 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

IN SEASON —

CASE IN POINT Trendy iPad and laptop cases are the perfect accessories for the modern woman on the move. Check out WWB’s selection of luxe styles available for short order now.

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SPOTLIGHT — Practical accessories that slot into a business wardrobe need not be boring. This winter, look for pops of colour alongside unusual fabrics and exotic skins.

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03 02

01

04

SPOTLIGHT — IPad and laptop cases make the perfect add-on Christmas presents, so merchandise in-store at till points alongside iPhone covers and other great stocking fillers.

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-01- iPad cover, Barbara Boner, £150, 07531 936315 -02- Laptop case, Mimi Berry, retail price £98, 020 7729 6699 -03- Laptop case, Bulaggi, £30, 0031 (0)356212757 -04- iPad case, Bensimon, €16, 0845 094 4012 All prices are wholesale unless otherwise stated.

28 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

FASHION —

FASHION RADAR BILL + MAR

CUSTOMMADE

Targeting new stockists, London brand Bill + Mar is on a mission to raise its industry profile. The catalyst? Its game-changing s/s 13 collection.

Launching into the UK for the first time with its spring 2013 collection, Danish label Custommade is quickly making a name for itself.

Established: 2010

Established: 2002

Signature style: Consisting of strong silhouettes and graphic prints, the youthful brand explores directional streetwear at a high-end level.

Signature style: Laid-back cool is the order of the day, with styles blending femininity with a touch of boyish charm. Pieces are relaxed and easy to wear.

London label Bill + Mar introduces a fresh, clean-cut line for spring/summer 2013, which has been inspired by tribalwear.

Designer Rosie Bonnar has looked closely at shape and construction, using curved necklines and elegant draping across the range, creating a sophisticated silhouette that’s taking the brand to the next level.

The simple shapes are brought to life with a palette of natural tones contrasted with burnt purples and blues with a splash of vibrant pinks and turquoise. Also new is an exclusive marble print, which has been painted onto silks and silk jerseys with complementing neutral wool crepes to ground the collection.

All garments are manufactured in London, with fabrics ranging from luxury to casual, allowing the brand to reach a larger spectrum of consumers. Bill + Mar will be targeting new stockists for s/s 13, including independents, chain stores and online boutiques. Wholesale prices for s/s 13 range from £17 to £80.

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Custommade was founded in Denmark in 2002 and has since established itself on the international stage by selling to nearly 450 shops and department stores worldwide.

Four annual collections – two main and two pre – are offered by the label, all in its contemporary style stable, mixed with an urban vibe. In particular, the spring collection was conceived with inspiration from the various dynamic women on the streets of Copenhagen. Head of design Anne Rasmussen looked into how these women’s personal style is reflected in modern metropolises today.

Key styles include a floaty, semi-transparent white blouse, denim jeans and skirts in washed-out blue, aqua green, barely there berry and funky prints. Other fundamental pieces include corduroys in slim stripes, a must-have leather miniskirt, a quilted jacket, biker pants, a worn-out army jacket and a waterproof hooded parka. Meanwhile, prints to watch for are various versions of playful dot patterns and graphic animal prints. Wholesale prices range from £7 to £180.

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30 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

REPORT —

STATE OF INDEPENDENCE WWB INVITED A HOST OF KEY INDIES FROM ACROSS THE NORTH TO A ROUND TABLE DISCUSSION AT MANCHESTER’S GREAT JOHN STREET HOTEL, DEBATING THE KEY ISSUES AND CHALLENGES THAT ARE CURRENTLY AFFECTING FASHION RETAILERS. — NATALIE PETERS Owner, Amabo Boutique, Lytham St Annes Established: 2007 Brands include: Airfield, Hauber, Passport, Nice Connection, Codello, Kapalua and Gelco —

JO DAVIES Owner, Black White Denim, Wilmslow Established: 2010 Brands include: Acne,

By Malene Birger, Camilla Skovgaard, Carven, House of Harlow, J Brand, Markus Lupfer, Muuba, Paige Denim, Theory, Victoria Beckham

GUY HUDSON Owner, Lynx, Harrogate Established: 1984 Brands include: High, Sportmax, DKNY, Hotel Particular, Maison Scotch, 2nd Day, CashCa, Seven for All Mankind and Fahri, as well as a Pennyblack shop-in-shop

LOUISE ROUTLEDGE and CHARLOTTE ROUTLEDGE Owner and manager respectively, Halo Boutique, Rochdale Established: 2005 Brands include: The Pretty Dress Company, Hybrid, Hedonia, Belle & Harris, Love, TFNC, 18 & East and Jolie Moi

KRYSHIA BRYANT

ALICIA FYFFE

Owner, Kryshia, Uppermill, Saddleworth Established: 1977 Brands include: Saint Tropez, Sandwich Clothing, Masai Clothing, Lauren Vidal, Bitte Kai Rand, Twisted Muse, Simclan, Kryshia Studio and Selected Femme

Manager, Bottega Lifestyle Boutique, Tarporley Established: 2007 Brands include: American Retro, Maison Scotch, Des Petits Hauts, Pyrus, Mink Pink, Gestuz and Paige

Isabella Griffiths: How have you fared in the current climate?

Alicia Fyffe: I can honestly say that spring/summer has been one of our best seasons.

We’ve had one of our strongest sell-throughs, but it took careful planning financially; what we’re going to spend, where we’re going to spend it and what we’re going to buy, and we didn’t buy high summer.

Jo Davies: It’s hard for me to comment. I started in a recession, and we’re still in it, so I don’t know what the good times felt like. We’re currently having our best season, for exactly the same reason as Alicia did. We bought a shed load less. There is no rocket science to it, other than the fact that you need enough of the right stuff.

And there is a huge responsibility on the person who does the buying to deliver that. In our first month of trading, we did double what we forecast, so we opened on 2 September and, by 30 September, I thought, “I haven’t got enough stock for the season. This is so good, why didn’t I do this years ago? I’m going to be rich!” And then I panicked because, at the end of it, I went straight into buying for spring/summer. So what do you do? You double all your orders and

31 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

add one. And that was a disaster for us. It was immense learning; one that I will never forget.

So for next summer, I looked at how many units we sold before we went into Sale, I’ve kept my value down, I’ve not bought into anything too seasonal, and it seems to have worked.

Guy Hudson: We’ve had our best season in years, but we’ve kept our stock tight, too. We are 22 per cent down on stock, and six per cent up on takings. It’s making the stock work hard.

IG: How important is online to your overall business?

JD: Around 15 per cent of our overall revenue comes from our own website and 15 per cent from online marketplace Farfetch. It’s fine but, if I took out the cost of it all, I’m not sure [it’s worth it]. But we’re looking at the growth potential. The website does give our customers a point of reference, especially outside Greater Manchester. Trying to get the London press involved in a shop that isn’t in Central London is a nightmare. You have no chance unless you’re online, because they don’t have anything to refer it to. So even if it’s not a transactional website, it’s worth having, just for exposure.

Natalie Peters: I have a transactional website, and I use Facebook as a reflection of the shop.

I don’t have loads of followers, but it’s a good reference point.

Louise Routledge: Our website is doing fantastically well. I think it’s because our target market is young – we’re aimed at young girls aged 18 to 30 – and that’s how they shop; on their phones and laptops. The Facebook page does well, too; we get an awful lot of interaction but, again, I think it’s the age. But it’s a full-time job in itself.

Kryshia Bryant: We’ve been selling online for six weeks, so we’re still novices [to e-commerce], but it’s already improved my bricks-and-mortar footfall. There are days where it has been pouring down outside, and people come in and say, “I’ve seen this online, where is it?” I’m sure that has tripled my sales on certain days. But it’s early days. It might have been novelty factor – I don’t know.

GH: I don’t sell online. We do have a website, but it’s all about finding the store, it’s not transactional. I don’t really want it. I think the longer I’ve been holding off against it, the more I’m convinced I don’t want a transactional site.

In terms of the North, e-commerce is dominated by the likes of Jules B, Coggles and,

REPORT —

of course, Asos, and if you’re Southern-based, Net-a-porter and so on. They are incredible but, if you’re not one of the top three players, it’s a struggle. And they put their hand on everything; they have 200-300 companies they work with, and why be part of all that? I don’t want to open up my merchandise to websites; I want the experience of people coming to the store. We are now sourcing more than ever at European shows, merchandise that is not available on any other website. We’re fighting against it, dropping some of the bigger brands, and trying to find smaller labels that we have to ourselves in the North, if not the UK.” AF: We’re having a holding page and are currently having a website built. Because we’re a lifestyle store with so many different products, we will probably only put certain things online; we’re taking it slow. We do a lot with Facebook, though. We put a lot of things on it, and then people call up.”

KB: For a long time, I thought, “We’re established, we don’t need a website.” But it’s improved my business. You need to keep it fresh, and every week we keep taking new photographs. So we’ve now taken it in-house and created our own studio. But it is a lot of work, and you’re paying extra salaries. As I said, it’s early days. Ask me again next year whether the investment was worth it.”

LR: We’ve had our website in the current transactional format for two years. And this year, over 50 per cent of our revenue has come from online. We don’t feel it has impacted the footfall through the door, though, it’s just given us a bigger revenue. We don’t look at it as part of our takings, we look at it as additional sales, and sales that, perhaps on a rainy day when no one is going to walk through the door, you’ve still taken money. We try not to rely on it; we translate the personal service they get when they’re in the shop to online. We have been thinking of investing in it and developing it further, but it works so, if it works, why should we plough however many thousand of pounds into it? But, also, unless we move to bigger premises, we can’t physically carry more stock and cater for more demand. We’re only just managing now with the two of us to keep on

“The fact that we’re independent means we have independence. So for the independent sector to survive, it’s down to us.

We are all still here because we’re taking personal approaches to our businesses and making them work”

top of it all. The social media side of it and the website is a full-time job. I know it’s not for everybody, but it works for us.

Charlotte Routledge: I handwrite a note on every order, saying, “This is what you ordered, thanks for your order, love Charlotte and Louise.” We don’t print anything off on the computers; it’s all handwritten. We put sweets in. I know it sounds barmy, but people comment on it. We try to translate our bricks-and-mortar shopping experience to online with the small details that count. It’s like a human touch, and personalising an otherwise anonymous transaction. And people comment on it.

GH: You have managed to personalise your online and put your own stamp on it, and I find that inspirational. You’re almost having as much fun with online as you’re having in-store, looking from the outside in. You’ve made an impersonal business quite personal.

JD: But I admire you, Guy, for not going online.

These days, people seem to think you have to go online, but you don’t have to, actually, and I think there is something nice about those who don’t. From an independent’s perspective, it almost adds more strength to the argument that you are independent and not following the trend.

>

32 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

IG: What are your main challenges and bugbears?

KB: Sales. Early sales by the major players and high street. It pushes you into Sale, too, and has an awful impact on our business.

JD: There are certain online stores, such as My-Wardrobe.com, who have promoted the season to death. Every single time you go on that website there is another offer, whether it’s free delivery, free returns, 30 per cent off or gold membership, and I find it crippling. The reason they are doing it is because they bought too much stock. We’ve all been there but, because My-Wardrobe has got such a presence, we can’t compete.

GH: This is what I was saying earlier about Coggles and Asos etc – how can they get sell-throughs through 300 brands? At some point, they start ditching it off the market and discount it. I’ve taken a stand back from it. I’m trying to extend my full-price selling period.

I’ve stopped chasing customers, stopped doing offers and finished doing mini sales. You either fall in with it or you have to make a decision to fall out with it.

AF: We’ve also decided that we’re not doing a Sale; we’ve taken ourselves away from it. And consciously, this year, we have tried to get brands in that aren’t online, because we are not online yet. We try to get brands that aren’t so over-exposed online that they are constantly in the Sale somewhere, and it has really helped.

GH: It also gives you confidence on your own shop floor to say, “We have this, we are one of the few who have it.” We buy a lot of lines, but in small runs, and the girls can stand there in confidence and say, “Come on, Mrs Smith, buy it, because next week it will be gone and we won’t repeat it.”

NP: It’s an education thing. I do the same, and my customers know that if they don’t buy it there and then, it’s gone.

KB: How do you deal with people who come to your shop and demand discounts? Customers think they’re doing you a favour by spending £50 in your shop. I get so many people coming in and asking, “Can I have a discount on that?”

And I have to say “No, you can’t; we are wellpriced, we have a lot of exclusive labels and we can’t do that.” Obviously, though, if someone spends £800 or £1,000, we offer before they even ask, or throw in a piece of jewellery.

NP: We buy jewellery and scarves for that

REPORT —

particular reason and give them as a gift. People appreciate it, even more than a discount, because it actually means something; it’s tangible. As an independent, yes, you get the best product you can for your customers, but the things they remember are the tangibles. If they keep coming back, you remember their name, what they bought last time and so on. That’s what matters and gives us our edge.

LR: We find that, if we re-merchandise, which we do all the time because we get bored quickly, people will come in and say, “Is this new stock?”

And literally, only because it’s in a different place, they will buy it. Changing the colours and making things look different for people who come in regularly really works.

IG: Is there an argument for regulated Sales periods?

GH: Without question. That would be the biggest help. January and August – six months apart. They do it in other countries, by law, and it seems sensible. But it has to be policed and fined considerably.

JD: Yes, I think it would help. The only downside is, if you have a sudden dip in the economy, or a flood or something that is affecting your sales, you can’t get rid of your stock and get your cash flow going until those two weeks of sales. Net-a-porter does it well, because it seems to stick to designated sales periods and relatively short times. But I think it is a statement when you don’t go on Sale.

GH: The secret is in trying to extend your prime selling period.

KB: I don’t think we get any support from government bodies, though. We’re pretty much on our own.

JD: I think part of the problem is government intervention and the Mary Portases. No one in government has ever run a shop, and neither has Mary Portas for that matter – she’s a celebrity.

She has a PR company, she’s had a TV series, she’s done a horrible fashion range and she is trying to tell us all how to do it. I find it insulting.

NP: If you take that celebrity away, what’s left?

It’s like with those knickers. If you have the money and the publicity behind it, any of us could do it. If we had those budgets and half of House of Fraser to play with, we could all do it.

“Without question, regulated Sales periods would be the biggest help.

They do it in other countries, by law, and it seems sensible. But it has to be policed and fined considerably”

The portrayal [of retail] is unrealistic. I think she [Portas] does more harm than good.

IG: With the discount and sales mentality, are you affected by a lot of returns, and how do you deal with it?

LR: We don’t tend to get a lot of returns.

We put measurements on the website, what the composition of the item is in as much detail as we can on each listing. And, touch wood, we don’t get a lot of returns.

KB: In the six weeks that we’ve been going, we’ve had four or five returns, and I was devastated. But then I read figures from other stores such as Asos and realised it was nothing in comparison. There is a lot to learn at every stage.

JD: Returns are the perils of online. You have to accept that there will be returns, and there are more people who take liberties online than in the shop. Give me a sale in the shop any day over a sale online.

GH: We’ve always had a relaxed returns policy.

The one person that you are going to argue with will put off three others, so there isn’t any point.

We always accept a return, unless we know we have really been hacked. Credit notes in the main, unless there is a really difficult situation, a refund. Our general policy to the girls is, take it back, but make sure more goes out.

KB: I’m quite strict with my returns policy. I used to be relaxed, but been taken for a ride.

After two days, it’s usually a credit note. And my

33 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

REPORT —

“These days, people think you have to go online, but you don’t have to, actually, and I think there is something nice about people who don’t. From an independent’s perspective it almost adds more strength to the argument that you are independent and not following the trend”

returns in the shop are maybe four a month. It hasn’t been a problem.

JD: We do 28 days for a refund or exchange. The draw for our customers in Wilmslow is to go into the Trafford Centre, Chester, we have two big Selfridges and Harvey Nichols, and a Flannels on our door step, so our competition is pretty intense. And Selfridges’ returns policy isn’t as generous as ours. Our returns rate is incredibly low, less than five per cent. But what it does do is it makes people comfortable coming back to the shop and seeing me, who will have sold it to them, and they actually feel bad for me, and they feel bad as an independent boutique.

Selfridges they go back, because they bought it off Sally, who doesn’t care, and they’re bringing it back to Janice, who doesn’t care either. So that’s a real positive for us.

NP: We get very little back. We’ve had two instances where a lady bought something, and she brought it back because her husband didn’t like it, which is fair enough.

JD: One of the dangers that we have, though, is if we sell something online, say, we have one size 14 of a style, and the customer doesn’t like it and sends it back – then we have lost the opportunity to sell it in-store within that period that it’s with the online customer. And that’s a bit frustrating.

IG: How would you describe the relationship and dynamics between retailers and their suppliers?

KB: You have to forward order to get the best stuff, and then you never know when it’s going to come in. That’s a problem.

JD: Quite a lot of the brands we sell are also on Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, Net-a-porter and My-Wardrobe, and I can wait for delivery for weeks to get them, because I’m a small retailer.

The mad thing is even though we’re saying this, the deliveries are too early anyway. I don’t want my a/w delivery in July, and early spring in November!

KB: Yes, I want my s/s deliveries in February.

January is sale month. Suppliers ring me up and say, “Oh, but it will freshen up your shop floor.”

No, it won’t, that’s full of sales stuff! But sometimes I do think: “Is it me? Do people buy in November?”

AF: How many of you are actually buying pre-collections?

JD: I do for pre s/s, only because some of these collections offer me Christmas product. Pre a/w, I don’t, because the deliveries come in May, when sales-wise we’re often pushed into it by end of June, and we’re in full sales July; August, Wilmslow goes on holiday. But we’re busy in the shop in August because our a/w deliveries come in, so we make sure that by beginning of September the shop is full of a/w. But your suppliers will tell you that pre-collections are becoming more and more important.

KB: I pick out things I will sit on; those I think I’m not going to get later and that I fall in love with. So I pick those and I won’t put them out till later. But it’s the quantities as well that you are asked to buy all the time. And sometimes you buy, to pad an order out. I don’t do that anymore.

It takes years of being in the game to stand your ground and say, “I’m sorry, this is all I want.”

GH: Sometimes you can have a brand for too long, and it starts not to sell-through as much.

It’s difficult if your business has grown and matured with those brands, but there comes a point where you have to let go. Brand loyalty is becoming less and less feasible.

KB: Yes, absolutely. We have a brand that we have been with for the last 25 years but, for the last four years, it’s been losing its way. And, when you speak to other retailers, they are all having a bad time, but you hang on to it because another shop could take it up. But then you think, hang on, if I’m not selling it, good luck to the other retailer. New shops will always open and take up brands that you’ve dropped but built up – it will always happen. I’ve got a shop down the road from me and every time I drop a label, she gets it, but then she drops it. I have stuck with certain brands for too long, I know I have.

LR: I think brands need to be aware of it, too, because there are so many up-and-coming labels.

KB: I used to have a big catchment area, and the suppliers are trying to cut back, and that’s detrimental for a small business like ours.

IG: Is there a bright future for independent retail?

GH: We’re all hoping so.

JD: If we didn’t think there was a future for independents, we would find an exit plan asap.

I feel that a sense of resourcefulness comes from trading in hard times. I’m one of those people that if things go against me, my immediate instinct is to battle back, so this is a good environment for me to operate in, in many ways, because it’s a challenge. It does make you do things in a much more determined way. The fact that we’re independent means we have an independence. So for the independent sector to survive, it’s down to us to do it. We are all still here because we’re taking personal approaches to our businesses and making them work. You have to.

GH: There is no safety net. I think being reactive is the key to it; to your situation, marketplace and locale. That’s why we’re the envy of department stores, because they look to us and we can change and adapt so quickly.

KB: Can we, though? Look at the Zaras and Topshops and so on. They get things in-store quicker than you can blink.

GH: But they can’t offer in-store experience like any of us. Do you want to shop in a jumble sale?

JD: And do you want to spend £80 on a jacket that will last you two weeks? Our customers have gone through the process, invested in a few key pieces with us and then off they went to Zara to spend money on lots of things there.

Next year, they’re back saying, “I can’t believe how much money I wasted in Zara.”

AF: Our customers have done that cycle, too.

They’re now coming back more loyal.

LR: Big stores can never match independents – even personal shoppers aren’t the same. They don’t know you, they don’t know their customers. We’re all still here, so we must be doing something right.

JD: From a personal point of view, I feel that as independents, we have a responsibility. People are saying independents are dying – it’s our responsibility to keep them alive. We need to do things differently to the rest of the high street – and we can, because we’re small. We can take on a new brand or run a promotion tomorrow. We don’t need to wait for somebody to sign it off, we don’t have to fit into marketing calendars, we can offer an amazing service that other chains don’t want to do. I do think there is more power for us as a collective if someone can get it to work. But, it’s so difficult, because we’re everywhere. How much do you really want to tell people about your business?

KB: But, we are exactly in the same boat. You do feel as if you’re going to be passing on lots of information. However, if we want to carry on and gain strength, we have to network more.

I don’t network anywhere near as much as I should do.

GH: Exactly – and there has been worse times and better times. But, I think if you can continue to trade in this climate, or even start your business in this climate, like Jo, and make a profit, it will get easier, and we’ll come out stronger at the other end. •

34 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

RETAIL —

“INDIES NEED TO START WORKING COLLECTIVELY” PAUL TURNER-MITCHELL, CO-OWNER OF ROCHDALE YOUNG FASHION INDIE 25 TEN BOUTIQUE AND A PASSIONATE CHAMPION OF INDEPENDENT RETAIL, SHARES HIS VIEWS ON KEY ISSUES AND WHY HE BELIEVES INDIES NEED TO COLLABORATE MORE CLOSELY.

On Rochdale...

— “With Rochdale, we don’t rely on local footfall, because we can’t. Rochdale is, in many ways, its own beast. We have double the national average of charity shops, eight times the national average of pawnbrokers and 18.6 per cent of empty shops, which is actually less than the average in the North West. But, when you factor in the charity shops and the pawnbrokers, Rochdale doesn’t have a strong retail offer. It’s difficult for us, because people get in their cars on a Saturday morning and have a wealth of places to shop, whether it’s Manchester city centre, the Trafford Centre, Bury or Oldham. So we’ve tried to create a destination store and, to be fair, most customers generally come in, park up, shop and go again, but we bring people in.

Customers come from Liverpool, Halifax, Huddersfield... we don’t just rely on Rochdale which helps us survive.”

—

On indies working together...

— “I think more people need to force the issue as there are crucial structural issues affecting the industry. For example, in terms of young fashion, everything is on pro forma terms, but you can’t get access to finance, you’re not getting credit on new stock and your pockets are only so deep. According to recent statistics, 1,000 independent clothing shops closed. Fortunately, 950 new ones opened, but there is no guarantee how long they will be around. It’s sad when 1,000 shops close – it’s people and their livelihoods. People need to start working collectively. As a single voice, you can make a little noise but, as a collective, you can make a lot of noise and champion change. I’m very much in favour of creating an independent cluster. I think the mentality in the past has been “set up and compete”, whereas the mentality now has to shift to “set-up and cooperate”, because together, we not only have a better chance of surviving, but also thriving.”

—

35 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

RETAIL —

On championing independents...

— “Becoming active and championing independents was more of a necessity.

In 2008-2009, when things were starting to get tough locally, I wasn’t one to sit back and watch; you had to put your head above the parapet, speak out, force change and force things to be done. And obviously, things progressed and became more national issues.”

—

On credit insurance and government response...

— “It depends whether you’re looking at sorting out the whole country out or whether you’re looking at helping our sector. In terms of our sector, credit insurance needs intervention because indies need to keep the stock flowing. The long and short of it is if we haven’t got any new stock, we haven’t got a business anyway. Forget the parking issues, markets, events and so on – if you haven’t got stock in the shop, you cannot trade, and the most important thing for the fashion independent right now is to keep that stock flowing. We need to get the credit flowing because we can’t rely on the banks any more. And if the credit doesn’t flow, next year there will be another thousand who are going to close, and then another thousand. And, if you look at that in terms of people’s lives and livelihoods, the impact is huge. The fashion independent brings so much diversity to the high street, the high street would be a poorer place without out them.”

—

On the Portas Review...

— “The Portas Review is ok, but you have to get the structural changes right, you have to look at the issues with out of town, you have to look at business rates and you have to look at the issue of credit. When you’ve addressed those on a government level, the Portas Review would work nicely sitting alongside it. Without it, you don’t. For me, it’s tinkering around the edges. I welcomed Portas’ appointment – I thought it was an inspired choice, and I had high hopes. I thought the report was good, but it could have gone into more meaningful issues such as the structural things. The response from then on was poor. Grant Shapps has since turned the whole high street issue into a joke with competitions, handouts and so on. This is a serious issue. There are people’s jobs concerned, and we’re introducing The X Factor style competitions with YouTube clips, performing like monkeys for a pittance of budget. Frankly, it’s disgraceful. The disappointing thing with Portas is that she went along with it, whereas I think she should have had more credibility.”

—

“The Portas Review is ok, but you have to get the structural changes right, you have to look at the issues with out-of-town, you have to look at business rates and you have to look at the issue of credit.”

On business rates...

— “In the past, town centre properties have been seen as a cash cow; as the most desirable properties.

Maybe they still are on Oxford Street but, in towns such as Rochdale in the North, they’re not anymore. Asos pays £40 per sq m, I pay £400 per sq m [business rates]. My overheads, as far as business rates are concerned, are 10 times more than Asos. How can that be right? It’s retail at the end of the day. We’re both competing for the same pound, we’re both selling the same item. They may be distributing from a warehouse and I am effectively distributing from a town centre, but what is the difference?”

—

On the high street...

— The high street isn’t dead by a long shot. Many people say it is, but I disagree. The high street as we know it is gone, and it will never recover.

Some towns will be difficult to turn around, and some we will have to let go, but is the high street dead? No. Can it be changed? Yes. But it will take some money. And there has to be alternative uses [for existing empty shops]. We need to make town centres exciting. Bland town centres aren’t going to thrive. Clone town centres aren’t going to thrive.

You need a good mix of indies and well-established chain stores. People are scaling back, but they are still spending.”

—

DBK LONDON LTD (DAVID BARRY & KESTA)

BRITAINS ONLY STOCKHOUSE OF OUTERWEAR, CASHMERE & WOOL COATS & JACKETS. AIS SUPPLIER OF THE YEAR 2011 11 Solebay Street, London, E1 4PW Contact: LARRY Tel: 020 7791 7308 Fax: 020 7791 1894 Mob: 07802 640900 Email: LarryDavidBarry@yahoo.com www.dbklondon.com

37 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

REPORT —

Having been unsuccessful in the Portas Pilot bids, a group of proactive indies in the Gloucestershire town of Tewkesbury joined together to make a positive difference to their struggling town centre.

Isabella Griffiths spoke to co-organiser and women’s indie Amanda Orton about their Discover Tewkesbury initiative.

—

Nick Jones Photography

INDIES ARE DOING IT FOR THEMSELVES

Jack Boskett Photography

T

ewkesbury is a small market town in Gloucestershire and was unsuccessful in its bid to be a Portas Pilot town. But it didn’t stop a bunch of proactive retailers and, rather than wait around for another government initiative and see more shops close in the town centre in the meantime, they pooled together and founded the Discover Tewkesbury initiative, aimed at promoting the town centre and its independent retailers and bringing back some positive feeling and buzz to the town. In just four months, the group has made a real impact on increasing the town’s profile and reviving it as a retail destination. “There was a lot of bad news around generally about the state of high streets and the economy,” says Amanda Orton (pictured back row, fourth from right), co-founder of the initiative and owner of local womenswear indie Pretty Special Ladies Boutique.

“This coincided with roadworks in and around the town centre, as well as severe flooding earlier this year, which had a real negative impact on trading.

“Furthermore, we have Gloucester and Cheltenham in driving distance and they are vibrant shopping destinations, which doesn’t help,” she continues. “So a group of us decided to do something about it and to try to make headlines about Tewkesbury for the right reasons. We wanted to find the unique selling point of our high street, which has got a wealth of independent retailers, and to attract people back into the town.”

Discover Tewkesbury was born, with the first event, the reopening of the high street following the roadworks and major disruption, coinciding with Independents’ Day on 4 July. As Tewkesbury hosts the biggest medieval festival in Europe, the initiative was used as the backdrop for more retail-focused events on the day, followed by a midsummer market, filling the high street with 70 stalls selling locally sourced produce. Other initiatives included a Cottage Industries pop-up shop for start-up businesses inside an empty unit, as well as a Spot the Produce competition for children, whereby pictures of local produce were hidden in shop windows, challenging families to find them and win a

hamper, helping to increase awareness of what is available from Tewkesbury’s shops. “We aim to put on one event a month, as we have noticed a positive impact on the town,” says Orton, who says everything has been done “with little or no budget whatsoever, just pulling in favours”, with the town and borough councils lending their support by printing flyers and banners to promote the event. The latest such event is the Cash for Christmas competition, where a lucky shopper can win £1,000, which is financed by a £20 joining fee by retailers taking part, who receive posters and marketing materials to promote the contest.

Orton is positive that by individual shopkeepers coming and working together, a difference can be made, regardless of government endorsements such as the Portas Pilot. “Of course, big changes won’t happen overnight, but we are all enthusiastic about it and feel passionately about promoting Tewkesbury as the lovely town that it is. And our results so far prove that if you have a little bit of gumption, a lot can be achieved.”

38 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

PRE-COLLECTIONS —

JUMPING AHEAD WWB TAKES A LOOK AT THE FIRST BRANDS TO ANNOUNCE PRE-COLLECTIONS AND EARLY SALE DATES FOR A/W 13.

—

BLEND SHE Blend She’s pre-collection sees colour blocking and signature stripes sitting alongside strong knit styles and plenty of contrasting fabrics and textures. The silhouette is sculpted and layering is softer this season, with short jackets designed to be worn over knit dresses in key tones of plum, canary yellow and purple. Shot through with black, grey and soft white hues, rougher and more sporty looks are achieved in jersey fabrics, sweats and zip details.

— Selling now until 31 January.

Wholesale prices £8.99-£119.

0045 79433000

STEILMANN Steilmann’s pre a/w 13 programme focuses on four key themes – Göteburg, Montreal, Salzburg and Bordeaux, with delivery dates spanning from early June to late July. Buyers can expect to see wintery dark tones, spanning inky blue, mandarin red, aubergine and crimson. Focal points include boiled-wool biker jackets, blazers, coats, quilting, padding and sports-inspired silhouettes, while corduroy, jacquards and imitation leather return as crucial fabrics.

— Selling now until end of January.

Wholesale prices £20-£65.

020 7291 0522

39 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

PRE-COLLECTIONS —

FRANSA Fransa’s pre-collection is a mash-up of cocooning versus body-con silhouettes. Oversized outerwear has boyfriend shaping with big cocooning parkas, masculine cavalry style double-breasted overcoats, trimmed with gold buttons and layered over Navajo-patterned fringed knits and metallic-coated jeans. Vividly coloured body-con dresses with leather trims add a sexy vibe, accompanied with wrapped sweater dresses, teamed with a tuxedo jacket for both a masculine and feminine vibe. Meanwhile, colours span a warm palette of bordeaux, tomato red, navy, cobalt, deep pine green, metallics, grey, black and white.

Slim leather hipster belts with gold metallic hardware studs, glitter effects and animal-printed wool-mix scarves are the accessories not to be missed.

— Selling now until 11 January Wholesale prices £7-£70.

020 7636 9060

PRINCESS GOES HOLLYWOOD Princess Goes Hollywood is an upbeat and quirky luxury lifestyle brand with coloured and patterned knits made out of the softest cashmere blends. Princess also creates printed and plain lightweight cashmere sweaters, dresses, cardigans, twin-sets and tunics. For extra longevity, the brand uses a longer than average length fibre to avoid pilling.

A 2013 pre-Christmas delivery of luxury knits will be available for those festive events.

— Selling now until 20 December.

Wholesale prices ¤25-¤125.

020 7434 1994

FRANK LYMAN Frank Lyman turns to a trusted formula this season, with animal print the main focus of its glamorous a/w 13 collection, which will also feature a play of textures and ruffles. The classic shift dress remains a must-have, and is offered in various prints, while other styles include one-shoulder designs, longer lengths, studded pieces and the ever-popular peplum dress. Sweater knits are also a big focus for winter, in tunic lengths, especially when paired with basic pants or leggings. As a finishing touch, Frank Lyman is introducing accessories this season, including shawls, scarves, handbags and feather or sequin clutches.

— Selling now until February.

Wholesale prices on request.

0141 204 0699

HAUBER Luxury and casual chic is the by-line for Hauber’s first autumn pre-collection for 2013, featuring soft and cosy knits with fur trims, stylish leather jeans and jackets and coats. Expensive colours are prevalent throughout the first drop such as gold, buttermilk and chocolate with slashes of burnt orange and lavender pink to highlight. The second group, meanwhile, is dramatic, using bright red and fuchsia against a backdrop of jet black.

— Selling now until end of February.

Wholesale prices £30-£250.

020 7323 6100

40 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

PREVIEW —

EXHIBITION HIBITION CALENDAR END Sponsored by

Your month-by-month guide to the key autumn/winter 2013 shows.

PITTI W WOMAN PRE COLLECTION 8-10 January Dogana, via Valfonda 25, Florence 0039 5509491861, www.pittimmagine.com The 11th edition of Pitti is the first show of the season and is dedicated to the latest in womenswear fashions, showcasing the key collections before anyone else. For this edition, the guest designer is Maison Kitsuné – a collaboration between French music producer Gildas Loaëc and Japanese architect Masaya Kuroki – where fashion and music provide the inspiration.

EXPO RIVA SCHUH 12-15 January Palazzo dei Congressi and various hotels, Riva del Garda, Italy 0039 289546251, www.exporivaschuh.it Expo Riva Schuh is a well-established, international fair dedicated to the footwear sector. More than 1,200 companies and around 11,000 operators will cover over 32,000 sq m of space set across the exhibition centre, congress centre and various hotels located in Lake Garda. New this season is the Indian Pavilion, a newly renovated space that will welcome member companies of the Council for Leather Export India, the government organisation responsible for promoting India’s leather goods industry.

2012) retailers can expect to see further expansion in the show’s unique five buying zones – Gift, Fashion, Wellbeing, Stationery & Greetings and Children’s. In particular, Top Drawer Fashion sees the inclusion of a unique clothing section for the first time, and the sector welcomes new brands never seen before at Top Drawer January, including Caro London, Claremont Clothing, Ochre Cashmere, Reeves Creative and Saskia. The show will once again be working with trend agency Trend Bible to give retailers an insight into trends for the upcoming seasons, providing seminars at the show as well as takeaway trend buying cards.

In addition, Home – the event for homeware and interiors – once again runs alongside Top Drawer in 2013, and is located in Earls Court Two.

SAU PAULO PRÊT À PORTER / COUROMODA 13-16 January Expo Center Norte, São Paulo 0055 1138976100, www.saopaulopretaporter.com The 2013 edition will introduce 500 Brazilian and foreign brands for the women’s and men’s clothing sectors, alongside accessories and costume jewellery. São Paulo Prêt à Porter will be held during the same week as Couromoda, the most influential event in the footwear and fashion accessories market in Brazil and Latin America, which runs on 14-17 January at Anhembi Pavilion.

TOP DRAWER 13-15 January Earls Court One, London 020 7384 7742, www.topdrawer.co.uk With over 750 brands (a nine per cent increase on

PROJECT NEW YORK 21-23 January 0012 187407092, www.project.magiconline.com/ project-new-york

Due to significant damage at Pier 90 caused by the recent Hurricane Sandy, Pier 92 will be the new location for the New York edition of Project.

Launched in 2003, the show features innovative and creative brands, attracting a host of international visitors. Last July’s show featured the likes of Bleulab, Buffalo David Bitton, Nudie Jeans, True Religion and Schott. Made by Project – the pop-up concept comprising artisanal brands, creating product on the show floor – will once again take place.

BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN 15-17 January Tempelhof Airport, Berlin 0049 302000370, www.breadandbutter.com Returning to its original mission statement “quality instead of quantity”, the contemporary street and urbanwear exhibition plans to present an edited brand portfolio for its upcoming winter edition. For 2013, buyers can expect a more discerning selection of leading original labels, new brands and interesting presentations in a rebooted layout. The main hall (former Denim Base) will be mainly affected by the change, as it will show a contemporary urbanwear concept. The hall layout will also see major changes; large stands and presentations will line the border of the hall, with smaller booths positioned in the centre to break with convention. So far, the preliminary brand list features a host of heritage favourites such as Aigle, Barbour and Gloverall, while the contemporary, street and denim sectors are not ignored, with a line-up including Levi’s, Bensimon, Pepe Jeans London, Noa Noa, Fred Perry, Gestuz, UCLA, Superdry, Mustang, Wesc, Vila and Ichi.

41 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

PREVIEW —

PREMIUM 15-17 January Station-Berlin, Luckenwalder Str 4-6, 10963, Berlin 0049 30208891330, www.premiumexhibitions.com The upcoming a/w 13 season of Premium will celebrate the show’s 10th anniversary. With a focus on high-quality collections from international established labels, as well as interesting newcomers, Premium caters for the womenswear, menswear, denim, accessories and footwear sectors.

Brands announced to be exhibiting include American Vintage, Crea Concept, Diesel Black Gold, Ilse Jacobsen, Iro, Blaumax, Transit, Zoe Karssen, Escada and Rene Lezard.

THE GALLERY BERLIN 15-17 January Café Moskau, Karl-Marx-Allee, Berlin 0049 211/4396-317, www.the-gallery-berlin.com After two successful editions, The Gallery has become an established destination for contemporary fashion, design and accessories on the Berlin fashion scene. Café Moskau, in the centre of the city, remains the venue, with some 90 collections hosted across the three days. On display will be individual, international labels such as Sarah Pacini from Belgium, Danish brands like Bitte Kai Rand and Nör Denmark, as well as new exhibitor Trine Kryger Simonsen and fashion from young creatives including Igor Dobranic and Link from Croatia. Exhibiting for the first time are Oblique from Italy, Mia Mai from Germany and Berlin designer Peter O Mahler to name but a few.

Capsule Berlin fuse the best in high-end contemporary brands with directional independent designers and premium streetwear labels. Capsule takes place 12 times a year in New York, Paris, Berlin and Las Vegas. The Berlin edition caters to men’s and women’s collections, with the following expected to take part this season – Libertine Libertine, Mark McNairy, David David, Comune, Hudson’s Bay Company, New Love Club and Olow.

BIJORCHA 18-21 January Pavilion 5, Porte de Versailles, Paris 0033 147565282, www.bijorhca.com The four-day event will showcase costume, fine and fashion jewellery alongside watches, ready-to-wear and gifts, with more than 400 designers taking part, representing 30 countries. Bijorcha is staged in conjunction with the other fashion shows and is held on the same dates for convenience.

WHO’S NEXT SEEK 15-17 January Kühlhaus, Berlin 0049 3062908511, www.seekexhibitions.com A key event in the Berlin Fashion Week schedule, Seek presents a tightly edited selection of progressive international labels from the worlds of womenswear, menswear, footwear and accessories.

Occupying industrial space Kühlhaus once again, Seek is ideally located next to Station-Berlin, the home of Premium. Though the exhibitor list was not available at the time of going to press, s/s 13’s brand list included Veja, Folk, Carin Wester, Harris Wharf London and Velour, among others.

CAPSULE BERLIN 15-16 January Postbahnhof, Straße der Pariser Kommune 8, Berlin 0049 12122068310, www.capsuleshow.com Fashion and lifestyle trade show Capsule aims to

Who’s Next

19-22 January Parc Des Expositions, Porte De Versailles, Paris 0033 140137483, www.whosnext.com To provide buyers with a clear offer, the Who’s Next layout is changing for January 2013, reorganising its offering around two main sectors – ready-to-wear and fashion accessories.

Ready-to-wear will see 1,000 brands divided into three creative areas – Private, Fame and Mr Brown for men. Private welcomes contemporary and commercial collections, reflecting the major trends of the coming season, with exhibitors including Derhy, Didier Parakian, Et Compagnie, Lauren Vidal, Leslie Monte Carlo, Marie Sixtine, Oska and Sarah Pacini. A particular focus will be on eveningwear designers such as Basix Black Label, Bernshaw, Forever Unique and Irina Schrotter. Meanwhile, Fame brings together brands the ilk of Baum Und Pferdgarten, Essentiel, Laurence Doligé, Orla Kiely, Osklen and Swildens, alongside new design talent under the banner,

Bread & Butter Berlin

Fresh. A new venue on the roof of Hall 7 has opened at Porte de Versailles, and this area – Electric – will host the catwalk shows as well as the show’s parties. The global accessories offer is divided into four main sectors – Who’s Next shoes, Who’s Next jewellery, Who’s Next bags & leather goods and Who’s Next textile accessories.

PREMIERE CLASSE 19-22 January Parc Des Expositions, Porte De Versailles, Paris 0033 140137483, www.whosnext.com/premiere-classe Running concurrent with Who’s Next, Premiere Classe is a leading event for accessories designers.

The show refocuses its offer this season to enhance the selection, with all the sectors of fashion accessories represented according to a rigorous selection criteria. The trends of the season, as well as young brands, will be highlighted through various installations. Confirmed exhibitors include Annabel Winship, Atelier Mercadal, Carre Royal, Eric Gallais, Histoire De Voir, Jean-Jacques Rogers, Maison Boinet, Muhlbauer, My Bob, Use Your Head, Tatty Devine and Yvonne Yvonne. >

43 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

PREVIEW —

MODEFABRIEK 20-21 January RAI, Amsterdam 0031 204421960, www.modefabriek.nl Modefabriek is a two-day fashion event that sees over 600 international and established labels and new design talent exhibit each season. Five areas are split based on lifestyle, brand image and distribution, and include Authentic for contemporary classics, Appearance for stylish, high-quality labels, Department for modern, cosmopolitan ranges, Industry for denim, and Refined for high-end fashion brands. Signed-up for January are Apanage, Cream, Current Elliot, Edith & Ella, Marie Méro, Samsøe & Samsøe, Soaked in Luxury, Steilmann and Yaya to name but a few.

THE BRANDERY 25-27 January Montjuic Exhibition Centre (Fira Barcelona), Barcelona 0034 932332000, www.thebrandery.com The Brandery will once again be held at the Montjuic Exhibition Centre, with brands divided into four areas – Trade Show, Brandtown, Fashion Show and The City. The show is home to Spanish and international urban and contemporary brands, alongside innovative denim, sports and street labels. Previous exhibitors have included Custo Barcelona, Sidecar, Replay and Superdry, and a similar line-up is expected this season.

LONDONEDGE 25-27 January The National Hall, Olympia, London 0116 289 8249, www.londonedge.com In its 13th year, LondonEdge promises to grow its array of brands catering for the “niches” in fashion, bringing together everything from dramatic footwear and elaborate corsets to body-piercing merchandise, vintage and retro styles, fancy dress, hosiery, swimwear and accessories. For 2013, the show welcomes new focus areas in the LondonEdge Original and LondonEdge Fashion zones – London X, Horror & Costume, The Festival Tent and a further expansion of VintEdge.

Burlesque performances, catwalk shows, on-stage seminars, free haircuts and live tattoo art at Paul’s Chop Shop will provide the entertainment.

THE LEDGE 25-27 January The National Hall, Olympia, London 0116 289 8249, www.theledgeshow.com London’s Olympia will once again play host to action sports and lifestyle trade show The Ledge, running concurrent with LondonEdge. As well as

CIFF exhibiting a throng of the best action sports and skate brands, September 2012 saw the launch of the Streetwear Village, with this area expected to grow again for January. Alongside the 250 brands exhibiting overall, visitors can enjoy the plethora of entertainment available from break dancing and live graffiti to the exhibitor’s mini ramp skate competition.

CIFF 31 January – 3 February Center Boulevard 5, Copenhagen 0045 32528811, www.ciff.dk A/w 13 will be the 40th edition of the Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (CIFF), which is still the largest fashion fair in Northern Europe, with over 40,000 sq m and numerous brands housed under one roof. Buyers can discover the latest trends from womenswear, menswear, jewellery, footwear and childrenswear markets spread across several halls in the centrally located Bella Centre.

Last season, CIFF unveiled a new visual identity alongside a range of new services, and the aim for a/w 13 is to build on this success, creating a better space, more logical integration and an improved overall experience for exhibitors, buyers, press and visitors alike. Trend presentations, catwalks and parties will also be staged across the four days.

GALLERY 31 January – 2 February Forum Copenhagen, Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Copenhagen 0045 40330930, www.gallery.dk Gallery aims to be the number one choice for Scandinavian design-driven fashion brands.

Attracting both young and well-established designers, the show values high-quality and innovation from its exhibitors, who come from the worlds of womenswear, menswear, footwear and accessories. Buyers can expect to see big-name, established Scandinavian labels such as Norse Projects, Mini Market, Day Birger et Mikkelsen,

LondonEdge Marimekko, Wood Wood, Dagmar, Dansk and Designers Remix Collection exhibiting once again this season, alongside younger, more niche labels.

Running concurrent with the other trade events at Copenhagen Fashion Week, Gallery sets itself apart this year with a new initiative – The Showscene at Gallery – where 14 designers will attend.

CPH VISION 31 January – 2 February Lokomotivværkstedet, Copenhagen 0045 39648586 www.cphvision.dk Vision is Copenhagen’s new fashion platform – a biannual trade show based on an extended fusion of the CPH Vision & Terminal-2 fairs – resulting in a more comprehensive fashion experience under one roof. An exclusive mix of 400 Scandinavian and international contemporary brands will be housed in the following collection areas – Shine, for young and high-street brands; Seek for emerging talent; urban brands in Dawn and The Boiler; denim in Free; and edgy and art-driven labels in Private. Signings so far include Ver de Terre, Twist & Tango, Just Female, Rosemunde, Style Butler, Pennyblack and Ilse Jacobsen. The Designers’ Nest Show & Award will take place on 1 February, with other daily events focused on networking and business, including the Vision party. >

44 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

PREVIEW —

CPH Vision

Pure London

ISPO MUNICH 3-6 February Messe Munchen trade Fair Centre, Munich 0049 89949-11388, www.ispo.com ISPO Munich is the leading international show for the sports, outdoor and performance sectors, catering for over 2,300 international exhibitors.

Sporting goods, athletic footwear and fashions from the outdoor, ski, action und performance sports will be accompanied by performances, events and forums.

PURE SPIRIT

THE GALLERY DÜSSELDORF 1-4 February Botschaft, Cecilienallee, Düsseldorf 0049 211/4396396, www.the-gallery-duesseldorf.de The exhibition for mainstream fashion, international designers and accessories will once again be held again at the Botschaft venue, the former American Consulate General at Cecilienallee 5, and a short walk away from the showrooms on the Kaiserswerther Strasse. The four-day event will play host to international labels including Oska, Mia Mai, Johanna Hawrot, Eva Kayan, Eve In Paradise and Zuza Bart.

SPRING FAIR INTERNATIONAL 3-7 February NEC Birmingham 0844 588 8071, www.springfair.com Spring Fair International is Europe’s largest gift and home accessories show, presenting over 3,000 exhibitors across 14 show sectors. Buyers are invited to join celebrity speakers and industry leaders as they present daily seminars and briefings on the retail trends that will help grow your business.

Scoop International Spanish and foreign fashion brands from the women’s fashion and accessories sectors across two halls. Previous exhibitors have included the likes of Companoafantastica, Carla Ruiz, Jomhoy, Sidecar, Smash, Carling, Presen, Pomodoro and Almatrichi, and a similar line-up is expected this season.

MARGIN 10-11 February The Music Rooms, 26 South Molton Lane, London www.margin.tv/map Margin is the longest running independent fashion trade event in London and celebrated its 10th anniversary last February with a book for the iPad. The exhibition is known for providing a successful launch pad for directional new designers, alongside credible, established brands, and previous exhibitors have included the likes of Worn By, Emma Louise London, Electronic Sheep, Punkyfish, Supremebeing and Your Eyes Lie.

PURE LONDON SIMM 8-10 February Feria de Madrid, Madrid 0034 917223000, www.ifema.es/ferias/simm SIMM is expected to bring together around 900

original collections in womenswear. Pure London welcomes a raft of new brands to the show, including contemporary womenswear label Blacky Dress and accessories brands Fiona Dane, Amaro, Falke and By Elise. Pure Body returns with a selection of lingerie, swimwear and shapewear brands for 2013. Over the three-day event, buyers will once again have access to a comprehensive seminar programme, from trend forecasts and buying recommendations through to tips on etailing, visual merchandising and social media.

10-12 February Olympia, Hammersmith Road, London 0844 588 8077, www.purelondon.com New this February, the Directional Edit area will replace Premium, offering sophisticated and

10-12 February Olympia, London 0844 588 8077, www.purelondon.com/ Pure London’s section dedicated to young fashion and on-trend clothing presents feminine party dresses through to edgy, fashion-forward streetwear labels. Housed in the National Hall, adjacent to the main show, this section hosts its own dedicated catwalk and business seminars.

Returning to the show this season are Sugarhill Boutique, Yumi, Numph, Ruby Rocks, Bielle and Iron Fist, as well as celebrity line Kat Von D Los Angeles and partywear collections from Forever Unique, Wow Couture, Chi Chi London and Diva Sophia.

SCOOP INTERNATIONAL 10-12 February Saatchi Gallery, London 01484 846069, www.scoop-international.com Held once again at London’s Saatchi Gallery, Scoop International’s fifth edition promises to be bigger, better and more sharply curated than ever before. Showcasing over 250 emerging and established directional fashion designers, footwear, lifestyle and accessories brands across the gallery’s three floors, Scoop International offers a unique buying experience unlike any other. This February, the show has signed-up key labels from the US including Cut25, M2F and Eileen Fisher, adding to its increasingly international viewpoint.

Additional new faces at the show include Michala Wiesneck, Modern Love, Ottod’Ame, Brigitte Bardot, Audley, Barbara Rihl, Bellerose, Twist & Tango and many more, alongside returning favorites. This season, visitors can take advantage of a complimentary car shuttle service from Olympia, and Scoop’s rickshaws will once again be transporting visitors between Sloane Square tube station and the show. >

Dates 2013 09.-11.3.2013

21.- 23.9.2013

Messe Offenbach GmbH Kaiserstr. 108 -112 · D - 63065 Offenbach am Main Fon + 49 69 829755 - 0 · Fax + 49 69 829755 - 60 www.messe-offenbach.de · info@messe-offenbach.de

Connecting Global Competence

SPORTS. BUSINESS. CONNECTED.

ISPO MUNICH, FEBRUARY 3—6, 2013 ISPO.COM LAUREN FOX / Information Center UK & Ireland / phone +44 1923 233683 / fox@ispo.com

46 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

LONDON FASHION WEEK AND THE EXHIBITION AT LONDON FASHION WEEK 15-19 February Somerset House, London 0870 112 9088, www.londonfashionweek.co.uk The Exhibition at London Fashion Week is brought together over two floors at Somerset House, presenting the best of London’s ready-to-wear and accessories brands, plus a host of international labels. For s/s 13, the event housed 110 designers, including 30 new designers, in feature areas for each of the British Fashion Council showcasing initiatives – Newgen, sponsored by Topshop for innovative designers; BFC Rock Vault for high-end jewellery design; Estethica for eco-sustainable design; Headonism showcases new British milliners; and the Navy Board Room on the first floor features a mix of Newgen alumni.

As usual, designer presentations, salon shows, parties and catwalks will take place across the city during the week at separate venues.

MAGIC 19-21 February Las Vegas & Mandalay Bay Convention Centers, Nevada, USA 0018 775544834 www.magiconline.com Magic brings together the entire industry, hosting global buyers and sellers of men’s and women’s apparel, footwear, accessories and sourcing resources. The show’s goal is to connect and inspire the fashion community with impressive seminar series and world class speakers. Several neighbourhoods in Magic include WWD Magic, Magic Mens/Wear, FN Platform, Slate, Street, Pooltradeshow and Sourcing at Magic. Exhibitors for the February edition include Abbey Dawn, Save The Queen, Jessica Simpson, Issue New York, Esprit, Free People and Kenneth Cole.

PROJECT LAS VEGAS 19-21 February Mandalay Bay, 3950 Las Vegas Blvd, Nevada, USA 0012 187407092 www.project.magiconline.com/project-las-vegas At the February edition, buyers can expect to see womenswear, menswear, footwear and accessories collections from heritage, denim, progressive and higher tier sporting goods labels. Specialist areas in the show include Project Love, a curated area hosting fashion brands integrating philanthropy into their business model; a full-scale photo studio; Blogger Camp; seminars; and catwalks.

Although the exhibitor list was unavailable at the time of going to press, those at the last edition included the likes of Barbour, Australia Luxe Collective, Bench, Blaque Label, Cheap Monday, Finder Keepers, Maison Scotch, Lacoste and Diesel.

PREVIEW —

MODA WOMAN 17-19 February NEC Birmingham 01484 846069, www.moda-uk.co.uk Moda Woman is the UK’s essential trade event for contemporary and mainstream womenswear, featuring leading names from the UK and international fashion scene. New labels showing this season include Mistral, Tricot Saint James, Tottie, Harry Hall, Caldene, Avalon Clothing, Gabriella K, Heinrich Nickel, MXO, Marinello and Urban Mist. Danish brands Two Danes and Masai are among the new arrivals joining Moda White, the edited area dedicated to directional brands. Also new this season is an additional catwalk theatre in Hall 20, dedicated to contemporary fashion for men and women.

Meanwhile, in Hall 17, Moda’s dedicated fashion and evening and occasionwear catwalks, highlighting key looks for a/w 13, take place throughout the three days. There will also be sector-specific seminars offering insightful business advice.

Avril Lavigne at Magic

MODA FOOTWEAR 17-19 February 2013 NEC Birmingham 01484 846069, www.moda-uk.co.uk Moda Footwear is the UK’s largest and busiest footwear exhibition, showcasing the latest collections from more than 400 brands across six key product zones covering every aspect of the footwear industry. This February, visitors can check out the additional catwalk theatre located next to Moda Footwear in Hall 20. Buyers can catch brand new catwalk shows dedicated to footwear and accessories and sector-specific seminars offering insightful business advice. Other events taking place include the annual Moda Footwear and De Montfort University collaboration, with the winning design announced at the show. New labels attending include Fellini, FMUK, MTNG, Follow Me, Sixtyseven and Softplus, alongside returning most wanted brands Fly London, Mel by Melissa, Iron Fist, Rocket Dog, Lisa Kay, Bronx, Scholl and Moda in Pelle.

MODA ACCESSORIES 17-19 February NEC Birmingham 01484 846069, www.moda-uk.co.uk Moda Accessories covers the full spectrum of the accessories market, with both UK and international labels presenting the latest designs in jewellery, handbags, scarves, gloves, millinery and leather goods. Launching for the February show, Moda Adorned at Moda Accessories is a new, edited area, featuring original, fresh, exciting and

Flip innovative accessory brands. New listings this season are Fashion Star, Glamour Gear and Onteks, alongside returning exhibitors Casa Di Stella, Pasha Jewellery, Bardot Accessories, Pell Mell, Makki, Park Lane Accessories, Bagatelle, Suzie Blue, Maria Carla and Bolla Bags.

MODA LINGERIE & SWIMWEAR 17-19 February NEC Birmingham 01484 846069, www.moda-uk.co.uk Moda Lingerie & Swimwear is the UK’s national show, playing host to the a/w 13 collections from a comprehensive selection of the industry’s much-respected lingerie specialists. Swimwear, hosiery, shapewear, loungewear, maternity and fuller-bust collections will also be catered for across the event, which will once again be sponsored by Invista. New exhibitors this season include three Latin American labels – Touché, for lingerie, beachwear and nightwear; shapewear brand Vadette; and luxury lingerie and swimwear from Ellipse. Nightwear label Pink Moon from Portugal and Italian shapewear from My Shapes are also new, while returning after a one-season break are Seafolly, Diva and Zoggs. Meanwhile, Moda Rouge, the designer collections area of the show, will once again feature an international

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Moda Footwear mix of interesting newcomers and upmarket ranges, including the likes of Nikki Cooke and Paolita.

FLIP 17-19 February NEC Birmingham 01484 846069, www.moda-uk.co.uk/flip Following its successful launch last season, Flip showcases the best in urban, street, denim and young fashion across clothing, footwear and accessories for both men and women. The additional catwalk theatre near Flip in Hall 20 will stage new shows dedicated to urban and contemporary fashion for men and women, while visitors will have access to essential advice from industry experts on the same stage. Brands attending this season include Animal, Garcia, Monkee Genes and Timezone.

BETA INTERNATIONAL 17-19 February NEC Birmingham 01937 582111, www.beta-int.com Renowned exhibition for the equestrian, pet products and country clothing sectors, Beta is built on a rich tradition of innovation, offering the finest business and networking opportunities over three days at the NEC Birmingham.

CAPSULE NEW YORK 22-24 February Basketball City, 299 South St, New York 0012 122068310 www.capsuleshow.com Though Capsule borrows inspiration from today’s mash-up culture with labels from every area of the market and stretching from bold to subtle design, constant across all participants is a premium level of ideas, overall aesthetic, styling, fit, design and brand messaging. Only the world’s most innovative and sought-after brands are invited to participate, providing retailers with a constant source of fresh ideas. The New York edition of

Moda Lingerie & Swimwear

Moda Accessories

capsule is for womenswear labels only and confirmed for February are Thierry Lasry, Collina Strada, Organic John Patrick, Black Crane, Dagmar, Sisii, Sloane and Tate, Samantha Pleet and Timo Weiland.

MIPAP – MI MILANO PRET A PORTER 23-25 February Fieramilanocity, Via Gattamelata, Gate 15, Milan 0039 249971, www.mipap.it MIPAP retains the same February dates this season but is moving to a new pavilion situated in via Gattamelata, an area that will become the new fashion centre of Milan thanks to a “Super” project, co-organised with Pitti Immagine and Fiera Milano. The new location brings with it a new layout project developed around the concept of public squares, creating a dynamic atmosphere and meeting points for networking. In terms of product, MIPAP will concentrate more fully on contemporary women’s and accessory collections as well as casual and informal style, protagonists of the existing Stream section of the show that will continue to be enlarged.

LONDON GARMENTS EXPO 25-27 February Business Design Centre, Islington, London 020 8888 0090, www.londongarmentsexpo.com February will kick-start the third edition of the London Garments Expo. In the last two years, the trade show has grown immensely, initially showcasing garment manufacturers only. The a/w 13 show will bring garment manufacturing companies and up-and-coming designers together for the first time, in the process sponsoring several London Fashion School students and helping them to take their first step into the world of business. In addition, the London Garments Expo is partnering with the London Asia Textile Fair this season, featuring

Moda Woman

textile manufacturers from around the world for the first time.

CPM 26 February – 1 March Expocentre Fairground, Moscow 0049 211/4396-312, www.cpm-moscow.com CPM is the international fashion trade platform for the Eastern European market with womenswear, menswear, childrenswear, leisurewear, lingerie, body and beachwear and accessories as well as homeware on the agenda.

The February show will be all about the show’s 20th anniversary, with side events including forums and trend-led catwalk shows.

CAPSULE PARIS 1-3 March Cité de la Mode, 34 quai d’Austerlitz, Paris 0012 122068310 www.capsuleshow.com The Paris edition of Capsule takes place in the second round of the city’s fairs, providing a fresh edit of womenswear only collections to buyers in town. An impressive international line-up, including Ysterike, Wood Wood, Norrback, Creatures of Comfort, Jenny Grfettve, Assembly NY and Dieppa Restreppo, has been confirmed.

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48 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

PREVIEW — 01423 770120, www.bbeh.co.uk At BBEH, buyers can expect to find collections from the top bridal designers, alongside budget price dresses, occasionwear ranges, formalwear, footwear and accessories. Catwalk shows run each season, showcasing new looks from top houses alongside seminars for better business in 2013.

GDS AND GLOBAL SHOES

Micam

GDS

THE BOX & THE BOX SHOES

PARIS SUR MODE ATELIER

1-4 March Location to be confirmed, Paris 0033 140137470, www.thebox-paris.com The Box showcases the very best of the jewellery and accessories worlds with an edited selection. It is usually held at the Pavilion Cambon, but a venue for March has yet to be confirmed. New last season was the addition of meeting point The Box Shoes, which gathered 40 shoe brands together in a separate prestigious location in the city. Though an exhibitor list was unavailable at the time of going to press, previous exhibitors include Beracamy Paris, Nach Jewellery, Wing Paris, Candice Cooper, Maven, Mascaro and Pink Powder.

1-4 March Jardin des Tuileries, Terrasse des Feuillants, Paris 0033 140137474, www.parissurmodeatelier.com Held at the same venue as Premiere Classe, Paris Sur Mode Atelier aims to offer a complete and rounded experience to the international buyers who flock to Paris for Fashion Week. Last October’s edition of the show attracted a more exclusive offer and clearer collection presentations with exhibitors including By Zoe, Stella Forest, Zayan, Van Bery, Tinsels, Essentiel, Muse of Love, Pret Pour Partir, Mooiloop, Sandrina Fasoli and Just In Case, and similar line-up is expected this season.

PREMIERE CLASSE TUILERIES 1-4 March Jardin des Tuileries, Terrasse des Feuillants, Paris 0033 140137470, www.premiere-classe-tuileries.com Premiere Classe at the Jardin des Tuileries remains an essential event for accessories designers during Paris Fashion Week. All sectors of the market are represented by a selection of creative and commercial brands from shoes, bags, jewellery, hats, gloves and scarves to glasses and belts.

ATMOSPHERE 1-4 March Location to be confirmed, Paris 0033 140137474, www.atmospheres-paris.com Last season, Atmosphere broadened its womenswear selection, welcoming around 100 French and international brands. An essential event of the Paris women’s Fashion Week for several years, the show has kept its leadership thanks to a mix of well-established brands and creative collections, and is an attraction for buyers that are only present during Fashion Week.

MICAM 3-6 March Fieramilano Spa, Strada Statale del Sempione, Milan 0039 2438291 www.micamonline.com Leading international footwear event Micam occupies an exhibition area of nearly 70,000 sq m and plays host to over 1,500 exhibitors. Important Italian footwear brands such as Geox, Paciotti and Balducci are expected to attend, alongside over 600 labels from the rest of Europe, China, Japan and Russia.

ILM INTERNATIONAL LEATHER GOODS FAIR 9-11 March Messe Offenbach, Germany 0049 698297550, www.messe-offenbach.de ILM International Leather Goods Fair has been established in Offenbach for over 50 years and welcomes around 6,000 trade buyers every season from the leather goods, travel and fashion bags sectors.

THE BRITISH BRIDAL EXHIBITON HARROGATE (BBEH) 10-12 March Harrogate International Centre, Harrogate, N Yorks

13-15 March Messe Düsseldorf, Stockumer Kirchstrasse 61, Düsseldorf 0049 2114560996, www.gds-online.com GDS provides a comprehensive market overview of the footwear sector with brands spanning the progressive, classic and premium segments, alongside sports, design newcomers and the latest in kids’ fashion. The event offers international buyer fresh inspiration through an array of fashion shows, trend productions and lectures with fashion experts that give a competent overview of the latest seasonal trends. Parallel to GDS runs Global Shoes, a platform for original equipment manufacturers and volume suppliers.

This fair for the sourcing segment will once again present a broad range of shoes and leather goods for the bulk market.

CHIC BEIJING 26-29 March New China International Exhibition Centre, Beijing 0086 1065053207 / 65050580, www.chiconline.com.cn Chic, which has bridged into the Chinese consumer market, prepares for its 21st edition this March. An area covering more than 100,000 sq m will be clearly structured into the different segments of menswear, womenswear, kidswear, leather and fur, accessories and specialist overseas pavilions for international exhibitors. While two halls are devoted to international participations, there are six halls presenting Chinese fashion brands such as Bosideng, YaYa, Snowfly, Metersbonwe, Jingboa, Youngor, Guklion, Boton W-Peng and Kipone. New this season is the designers’ corridor, where the talents of young Chinese designers are demonstrated.

WHITE GALLERY LONDON 19-21 May Battersea Evolution, Battersea Park, London 020 7772 8423, www.whitegallery.com Top UK and overseas retailers and press are invited to this two-day show to preview over 40 collections from the very best in bridalwear, accessories for the big day, as well as eveningwear and formal menswear offerings. •

50 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

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ARTIST’S STATEMENT

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The fifth edition of boutique trade show Scoop International, taking place on 10-12 February, is set to be the biggest one to date, with 250 designer labels gathering in the chic setting of London’s Saatchi Gallery.

WWB takes a first look at what the show has in-store.

— Since its inaugural edition in February 2011, Scoop International has almost quadrupled in size, offering the finest international designers and labels from across ready-to-wear, footwear, accessories and complementary products. Despite this impressive growth, the show has retained its hand-selected format, with the carefully edited line-up of brands setting it apart from other trade exhibitions, and making it the only UK trade event dedicated to contemporary premium womenswear, accessories and lifestyle labels.

“Scoop International is more than a trade show; it’s a meeting place for the industry, a trend-watching opportunity and a showcase for up-and-coming design,” says founder and curator Karen Radley. “The July edition was our strongest show to date and, with such a strong mix of labels on board, we are filled with confidence for the buying season ahead.”

Among the brands making their first outing in the UK at the event is British label The Rose; US designer Eileen Fisher; Swedish label Twist & Tango; US denim collection M2F; Style Butler from Denmark; French label Des Petits Hauts; and Lindy Ross, the new launch from the eponymous designer and co-founder of Anonymous by Ross & Bute.

Returning to the show, meanwhile, are the likes of Hoss Intropia, Coccinelle, Filippa K, Goat, Johnstons of Elgin, House of Cases, Lama Peach, The Frye Company, Mexicana, Nathalie Vleeschouwer, Rosemary Goodenough and Susannagh Grogan.

The event regularly attracts buyers from the most prestigious international retailers including Net-a-porter, Harvey Nichols, Matches, Browns, Fenwick, Fortnum & Mason and Liberty, as well as the cream of independents in the country. Scoop International’s unique appeal is further enhanced by its spectacular venue, the Saatchi Gallery, putting fashion into a wider cultural context of art and giving the show its own aesthetic. This time Gaiety, an exhibition on Russian contemporary art, will be in situ and form the backdrop to the elegant and inspiring showcase.

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01 Riani 02 Johnstons Cashmere 03 RPL 04 Eileen Fisher 05 Olivia Burton 06 Des Petits Hauts 07 Cabinet 08 Cashmere by Tanya 09 Nathalie Vleeschouver 10 Tissa Fontaneda 11

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TFS Slack

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BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN WITH A COMPLETELY OVERHAULED BRAND LIST AND LAYOUT, BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN PROMISES TO GO BACK TO ITS ROOTS NEXT SEASON. WWB GETS THE LOWDOWN FROM FOUNDER KARL-HEINZ MÜLLER AND HIGHLIGHTS SOME OF THE BRANDS TO CATCH AT THE EVENT. — Q&A WITH KARL-HEINZ MÜLLER Natalie Dawson: What is the new concept for Bread & Butter Berlin?

Karl-Heinz Müller: By implementing the revised concept, the show will go back to its roots. The principal “trade show for selected brands” is to be understood literally. January’s edition will follow the motto “mix and match” even stronger than before, and will showcase the entity of the urban world of men and women.

The neighbourhoods will be built across the various segments, with the main hall (formerly Denim Base) largely affected by the change – showing a contemporary urbanwear concept. The hall layout will also see major alterations; large stands and presentations will line the border, while smaller booths will be positioned in the centre. The layout overall was inspired by New York’s Meatpacking District, where the various heights of the buildings create a light and interesting atmosphere – the various heights of the stands will provoke interesting breaks and abrogate the monotony. The adjustments, but also the relocations within the areas, result in a new face of all hangars. Various restaurants, bars and cafés in the halls will support this picture.

YUMI This season, buyers can expect stories from mythological creatures to elements from Alice in Wonderland across Yumi’s directional prints. These highly feminine themes are juxtaposed with edgy details such as faux leather and chunky zips.

For partywear, metallics and baroque elements on partywear are styled with a nod to modern grunge, while daywear sees fun printed trousers harking back to 50s chic, layered with cozy knits and practical outerwear in daring colours.

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ND: How have exhibitors been selected, and which brands should vistors watch out for this season?

KHM: In its role as spin doctor for retail, Bread & Butter Berlin has to lead the way. We do focus on originals in terms of brands that have their own identity, character and philosophy – these might be market leaders as well as interesting new labels and concepts. We’re proud to welcome exciting new labels from Japan who chose the event’s LOCK area to showcase their collections for the first time.

ND: With attendance and footfall down last season, what are you doing to bring the buyers back?

KHM: By observing the overall market carefully, one would know that the time of footfall records are over. The same goes for beating records in square meters. But, size doesn’t matter – it’s not about growing beyond measure. Our goal is to give retailers orientation, not only in terms of the order business, but also regarding their product lines, to help them in differing from a retail landscape that becomes more and more vertical as well as from their competitor. If Bread & Butter Berlin can fulfil this role, it will be successful. With the new structure, the show provides a platform for buyers with a consolidated overview on what’s hot and what’s new in urbanwear, embedded in an inspiring setting.

ND: How do you see the show evolving over the coming seasons?

KHM: Our main focus is not to grow in figures, but to sharpen our quality concept. The selection is a continuous process and in constant change, like the market itself. We’re not afraid of downsizing because, as I said previously, size doesn’t matter.

It’s not about quantity, but about quality.

AMERICAN COLLEGE American College is the story of two childhood friends who wanted to revive the fashion icons of the past, so revived an old, forgotten classic – the varsity jacket. Now recognised the world over for both men’s and women’s designs, the new co-branded bomber jacket with Schott is a top seller in the best European shops, and is set to be the next hit for the brand.

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BARBOUR Fashion muse Lady Amanda Harlech lends creative direction to the Barbour Gold Label this season. Inspired by her love of horses and the British countryside, the range mixes grit with glamour, with Made in the UK tweeds and cashmere and angora knitwear key. Knitwear is present strongly through a collaboration with British designer Bella Freud, with each sweater featuring a design that captures an element of the British countryside. Also new this season is women’s footwear, highlights of which include Chelsea and jodhpur boots with quilted heels.

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SANDWICH Sandwich specialises in loose-fitting silhouettes that beg to be layered and are enhanced with prints that cover several schools of art, from graphic florals to abstract imagery and geometric motifs. Key shapes returning once again are cotton jackets, jersey tops, corduroy trousers, skirts and dresses. Tactile fabrics are popular with the brand’s core customer, so expect to see plenty of these alongside eye-catching finishes on classic silhouettes.

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AUSTRALIA LUXE COLLECTIVE A/w 13 sees the launch of a new, exclusive premium line that is a celebration of the brand’s strengths, pushing boundaries in sheepskin design using flocked fabric and Swarovski trims. The capsule line, positioned at the luxury market, also includes non-sheepskin styles such as aged, handmade leather boots. The main line, meanwhile, features neons and deep plum tones, balanced out with nude pink and soft blue.

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MERC Womenswear for a/w 13 is a larger offering than previously seen for Merc, growing more comprehensive each season. A-line skirts are offered in tweed with a matching blazer, while the classic Merc paisley is seen across dress designs. Cropped knit cardigans with cable knit, crocket or polka dot detailing is a key look for the season, while colours remain wintery, with rich plums, forest green and black in the mix.

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CLOSED At Closed, sporty shapes, partly inspired by military clothing such as parkas, are being broken up by gentle fabrics including crêpe and silk. The range also introduces four new denim styles – Marylin is slim-fit, high-waisted and has a straight leg; Phoebe is straight-cut with a discreetly flared leg; Ivy has a biker-pant cut; and Giselle has a biker-pant shape but is composed of different fabrics – a patchwork-mix of cord and dyed denim. Other innovations include the chino sweatpants and the tracksuit denim pants.

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AXARA Founded in 1975, Axara’s French savoir-faire is appreciated worldwide. The design workshop, located in Paris, mixes fabrics, laces and embroideries, focusing at all times on their muse – an independent and active woman who creates her own style – while holding on to the famous “French elegance” of dressing. Feminine and glamorous, the collection promises lots of black alongside rock chic elements for a/w 13.

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54 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

PEOPLE —

THE E BI BIGGER PI PICTURE It’s been another tough year, but despite continued pressures and a challenging economic climate, the mood is defiantly optimistic among the industry. WWB asked key brands, agents and retailers to reflect on 2012 and share their expectations for 2013.

— JANET THURSTON, MD, JANET THURSTON AND MARY SKINNER AGENCY What was the biggest challenge for you this year?

In the latter part of 2011, we began cutting down our overheads. Like for many industry players, it was clear our increased rental costs were having a draining effect on the funds we needed to take the business forward and invest monies better spent on future developments. Through the overall decrease in most of our retailers’ budgets during the last two years, the time had come to reduce the biggest cost; the dreaded rent, business rates and landlord services. So the decision was made to move showrooms, and we have relocated to a similar space, still in the West End with a considerably more favourable rent and, frankly, more suitable for our modern mix of designers.

What was your highlight of 2012?

Understanding the needs of our clients during this difficult trading time became priority. We knew that by reducing their budgets, our retailers could control their stock levels to suit the decline in consumer confidence.

So the agency applied more time and effort to maintain our client, encouraging our suppliers to support them with promotional aids, advertising contributions and seasonal stock swaps. The agency offered more service, in-store staff training, presentations, fashion shows and so on. In these times, it is imperative you have the right sales team around you, to be sympathetic and encouraging to your clients’ needs.

How do you feel about 2013?

We are feeling positive and look forward to continue working with all our retailers who have supported our brands through the tough times.

What are your business New Year’s resolutions?

Like all businesses, we need to be constantly thinking outside our own “box” and moving forward with the ever-changing fashion industry. We are in the process of updating our website. We have also started to work with more e-tailers, and our intentions for next year are to develop a bigger portfolio of these clients and encourage our designers to support this ever-growing market. At the same time, we will continue to pursue interesting individual brands for our portfolio to make sure we offer our clients the best possible mix of creativity in our collections.

LUCY BENZECRY, OWNER, THE WEST VILLAGE, LONDON What was your highlight of 2012?

The West Village reached a milestone in 2012; the store celebrated 10 years of trading in Notting Hill and has renewed its lease. Against the odds, the business has built on its trade over the last few years, and I am cautiously optimistic about the future.

What was your biggest challenge?

The Olympics. July was horribly quiet as everyone fled the city, but we made up for it in the second half of August, which was the reverse of what we had expected.

How do you feel about 2013?

I’m hopeful about 2013. Obviously, there is more competition than ever before – especially with the internet – so I think it’s important that we stick to doing what we do best, which is searching out modern collections that are not over-saturated in the marketplace. I think you have to keep on reaffirming your point of difference to stay relevant.

What is your business New Year’s resolution?

To keep the faith. Retail can be a brutal business, but it can also be immensely rewarding. I think when the economy is fragile, it’s tempting to make overly commercial decisions, but it weakens your appeal as a shopping destination. I’ll keep my core designers, but I’ll make sure I have an ever-changing selection of new finds, too.

PAUL LORRAINE, MD, BASLER UK What were your highlights of 2012?

I would have to say seeing the collection evolve, our new Knightsbridge store concept and new account acquisitions.

What was the biggest challenge in 2012?

Market confidence. The media tendency to focus on negatives teamed with difficult “lending” facilities for retailers and general high rents have resulted in a “safety first” mentality. This is contradictory to many retailers’ natural instincts, which have been to “pioneer” and take risks to inspire and attract custom.

How do you feel about 2013?

Confident. We have a strong brand and a comprehensive and commercial product offer, underpinned by a professional and committed team.

What will be your biggest challenge and opportunity in 2013?

The challenges will be similar to 2012 – high rents, rising cost of living, “austerity focused media focus” and decreased market confidence. In terms of opportunities, I see these in our product evolution, commitment to continually improve our customer experience and development our brand’s customer relationship management.

What are your business New Year’s resolutions?

Continued development of team culture, improve our customer experience and develop a wider brand understanding while staying true to our values and brand DNA.

55 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

ANGELA BLUNDELL, SALES DIRECTOR, OLSEN UK What was your highlight of 2012?

We have worked much closer with our customers in order to assist their profitability with Olsen in their stores. Our area sales managers have tirelessly travelled to visit the shops in their areas to ensure Olsen is performing well for them and, if not, reacting quickly to assist them. I feel this has enabled our buyers to be more confident when buying from us, as they know we want to work as a partnership. We have seen increases in our turnover versus last year because of this confidence, even though it is a difficult trading climate.

What was the biggest challenge in 2012?

Introducing a newer, more modern concept of Olsen product into the marketplace at a tough time of trading. We could have played safe and stuck with our bestsellers, but we have challenged ourselves and introduced a more modern feel to our collection. We have received a positive response, and our sell-through has proved this.

How do you feel about 2013?

It’s going to be another challenging year for retail. We need to be offering our consumer value, detail and point of difference for their money. The first five months of pre-order sales have been positive, with a double-digit percentage increase in sales versus 2012, so we are honoured that our buyers believe in the brand and our strategy. However, we need our consumers to gain confidence in buying again, so we are going to continue doing promotional in-store events in order to excite the consumer as well as offer more detail in our product.

What will be your biggest challenge and opportunity in 2013?

Our biggest challenge will be to continue to increase our business again for a/w 13. As we have seen a double-digit growth for s/s 13, our buyers are confident in us, therefore we hope our new collection for a/w 13 will incite more interest with new and existing buyers. We are evolving each season in terms of our modernity, and a/w 13 will be our largest step, so I am hoping the buyers will embrace our new collections and directions. The biggest opportunity for us and the industry will be to encourage our consumers to buy more freely again. We used to sell well in outfits, and now consumers are buying in pieces while they mix and match with what else is in their wardrobe.

What is your business New Year’s resolution?

To continue listening to what our consumer wants; not what we want to sell to them.

PEOPLE —

PAUL O’SULLIVAN, COUNTRY MANAGER, FRANSA UK What was your highlight of 2012?

The highlight for Fransa was the sale of our group from BTX to DK Company. Since the completion of the sale in July, our new owners have not stopped pushing forward with improvements. We are currently changing our sales platforms and internal systems. We now have the ability to work from iPads when selling our lines, working from a live system, and this has been instrumental in making our sales teams more effective. Soon, we will have a new B2B website and a fully live system, enabling our sales team to have access to live stock systems and customers’ account information.

What was your biggest challenge in 2012?

S/s 13 was tougher than in previous years. The state of the economy, bad weather and poor footfall in stores has made our customers nervous for future summer collections.

Many stores are reporting a downturn in sales, and some are even suggesting they will put stocks away for next year. However, at DK Company, Fransa and Dranella, each brand has six collections per year, so we are able to assist our customers to spread out their cash flow in the difficult months.

How do you feel about 2013?

I am optimistic for a positive development in 2013. Our a/w 12 collections are selling through well in-store at the moment and many customers are placing top-up orders.

I have a fantastic sales team, a new IT set up, a new infrastructure in Denmark and a great pre-autumn 2013 collection to work with.

What will be your biggest challenge and opportunity in 2013?

As previously mentioned, the biggest challenge is the economic climate. However, we are still relatively small in the UK, so we have lots of opportunities to increase our number of accounts throughout the independent trade, multiples and the ever-increasing online industry.

What is your business New Year’s resolution?

As a company, we need to keep our existing customers happy by continuing to develop new, exciting and commercial products.

The biggest learning curve based on this year’s trading was to always expect the unexpected. As a company working hard for our customers, we need to keep evolving to adapt to the challenges ahead.

CLAIRE WRIGHT, CO-OWNER, STRIPES, WORCESTER What was the highlight of 2012 for you?

The biggest highlight of 2012 has been going through a full rebranding process, which we will be rolling out in 2013. We have found it invaluable having a team of designers looking at our existing business and giving us recommendations for our branding, packaging, website and store layout. As an independent retailer, you are often too close to your business to fully evaluate what your strengths are and how you are perceived by others. We now have a clear vision for Stripes, and our brand has a stronger identity.

How do you feel about 2013?

I am optimistic about next year; we have learnt how to manage the tough trading conditions over the last few years, and we are looking at new ways to drive sales and keep our customers happy in 2013. We will be developing our website and continuing to hold numerous in-store events to keep inspiring our customers.

What will be your biggest challenge and opportunity in 2013?

Our biggest challenge is always keeping the product relevant and fresh for our customers.

We will be managing our suppliers in requesting deliveries at the right time, offering product that is appropriate for the time of year, otherwise items languish on the shop floor for months before anyone will buy them. We are looking at smaller forward orders for 2013 with flash collections that keep adding newness to our offer. We will take advantage of the opportunity of using short-order suppliers to give us increased flexibility and better sell-throughs, as we can adapt quicker to what is selling. When we first opened our store in 2004, there was a good rapport with suppliers, and agents actively took an interest in their brand’s performance throughout the season. I think there is a huge opportunity for lb to offer this approach and work with stores in achieving the best possible sell-throughs, not being scared to pick up the phone.

What is your business New Year’s resolution for 2013?

We are keeping things simple in 2013. We have spent 2012 trying to grow our business through the launch of our additional beauty salon, Stripes Beauty. These decisions have been instrumental in moving Stripes forward, however we plan to consolidate next year and focus on the shop floor, our fantastic team and our website.

56 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

RETAIL DIARY I am the fourth generation of my family to run Ravens. Our business has been trading since 1897 when Percy Raven, my great-grandfather, set up shop.

Over the years, we have seen a lot of changes, but these days we’re more ready than ever to make adjustments to what we do. My daughter, Hannah, joined the business three years ago and, given the trading conditions we find ourselves in, she is constantly reviewing all aspects of the business, looking at costs and performances.

Although we started out as a menswear retailer, we brought in gifts around 30 years ago and added a womenswear section 10 years ago. Due to demand, we opened a footwear and accessories department three years ago, so we are diversified, which helps with the ebb and flow of trading.

As I look towards Christmas, I know the womenswear department will begin to drop off in December, as women tend to buy early in the season, while the men’s area will be kept busy to Christmas Eve. And our gifts section, which includes home, will be busy, of course.

The past decade has been a learning experience about the significant differences between menswear and womenswear. My wife, Marian, handles the women’s buying, and she is much more liable to change brands than I am on menswear. The number one label for us is Gant – and it’s been that way for 15 years or more.

As so many men’s collections follow the same trends these days, I have to be careful that I don’t have too much duplication and overlap.

I am finding that I have to be tough on brands that don’t perform. Even though Camel menswear is working well for us this autumn, I have dropped it for next spring because it didn’t perform earlier this year. In my opinion, it’s an autumn/winter range only.

Our staple women’s brand is Gerry Weber, which has been consistent for the seven years we have had it. Just White Blouses by Stenau is another range we are pleased with, along with Michele trousers. I am sure that by the time spring arrives, we will have made more changes.

Change is a constant process in fashion retailing, now more than ever.

Neil Raven is the owner of Ravens in Southend-on-Sea, Essex, and is a member of FAB. www.fashionassociation ofbritain.co.uk

FORUM —

RETAIL FORUM

The latest news from the industry —

THE EDITEUR EXPANDS ITS OFFERING

PREMIUM DENIM STORE COCARANTI OPENS ITS DOORS Cocaranti, a luxury casualwear and denim boutique recently opened its doors in Knutsford, Cheshire.

The store is the brainchild of owner Lucy Willder, a lover of all things denim and on a mission to bring the brands she loves close to home.

The store stocks brands such as AG Jeans, American Vintage, Current/Elliott, Hudson and James Jeans among others, with the spacious and minimalist interior inspired by the chic boutiques of Manhattan’s Upper East Side. Cocaranti also offers a personal styling service at clients’ homes, and is also launching its transactional website this month.

“At Cocaranti, our vision was to create something special in Cheshire – innovative brands not available together anywhere else in the North West, quality fabrics, plus first class personal service and customer experience,” says Willder.

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HAVE YOU OPENED A NEW STORE, LAUNCHED A TRANSACTIONAL WEBSITE, ORGANISED AN EVENT OR HAVE ANY OTHER IN-STORE NEWS? THEN LET US KNOW BY GETTING IN TOUCH AT CAREY@RAS-PUBLISHING.COM.

Luxury womenswear independent The Editeur has recently opened its second store in Hale, Cheshire. The expansion was driven by customer demand, as many of the store’s client base had expressed interest in a second branch. “We had a few customers in our Chester store who live in South Manchester, and they expressed how much they would like us to open a shop there. We thought Hale was the most suitable, and it so happened there was an ideal store up for sale with six fabulous members of staff,” says owner Annabel Mount-Kirk.

The two-floor store stocks a range of high-end womenswear and accessories labels including DVF, Alice by Temperley and J Brand, and sports a simple, clean look.

—

57 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

FORUM —

WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS FOR DRIVING SALES IN THE CHRISTMAS PERIOD?

MIMI NOOR GOES ONLINE Bath premium denim boutique Mimi Noor has expanded its offer by launching its first transactional website.

The site offers features such as an Outfit Builder and Shop the Look section, allowing customers to buy a whole outfit or look at a click of a button.

Owner Mimi Noor hopes the website will encourage customer loyalty, as many of the shop’s clients are tourists, as well as extend the reach of the shop to a national and global audience.

“I wanted the website to be a reflection of the store in terms of look and branding and, most importantly, the shopping experience, no matter where our customers live,” she says.

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We ask four retailers this month’s hot question

STREETCASUALS OPENS IN CARDIFF Streetcasuals opened its first bricks-and-mortar boutique in Cardiff last month.

The store launched as an e-commerce website in September 2010 but, having seen a niche in the retail scene in Cardiff for a dedicated streetwear boutique, a bricks-and-mortar store followed.

The 50 sq m shop, situated in Morgan Arcade, stocks womenswear, menswear and accessories, and features a changing street art gallery with a number of different artists lined-up in rotation.

The shop fit has been designed to complement the original features of the store and combines the existing architecture with modern materials.

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MY FAVOURITE SHOP...

HUB 49

By Lis Errikson, sales manager, Sewn Agency

NICOLA FINLAY Owner, Eve Boutique, Glasgow — “In-store, we run a Christmas wish list service making purchasing gifts. As a village, Wendover retailers host a late-night shopping evening and, from mid-December, I will offer customers on our mailing list a “sale preview” on selected autumn/winter stock prior to going into Sale. ” —

Hub 49 Stoke Newington, Church Street London N16 0AR www.hubshop.co.uk Owners: Louise Power and Georgie Cook Opened: 2002 Key brands: Acne, Barbour, H by Hudson, Gestuz, Something Else and Won Hundred.

“With three stores dotted around Stoke Newington and Broadway Market, Hub 49 stands for everything that is good about a great independent. Starting with its selection of fantastic brands, the store is well-known for picking up-and-coming designers – it was one of the first in the UK to showcase brands such as Acne and Won Hundred. Hub 49 also has its own in-house label, Beth Graham. This, combined with a mix of vintage furniture and modern fittings, the welcoming customer service and personable staff, makes shopping at Hub 49 a wonderful experience.”

EMMA LLOYD Owner, Marianna Boutique, Ipswich — “Lily & Rose will be holding a special three-day promotion, which will coincide with an annual Christmas event in the town. During this period, we will be offering a discount on purchases and staying open late in line with a other local retailers. We are also advertising in our local magazine.”

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— “We are hosting a Christmas shopping night in conjunction with other local retailers.

Customers love the event, as they can start preparing early for Christmas in a relaxed and friendly environment without the stress of big shopping centres.”

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PREETA COOLEY Owner, Curve, Buckinghamshire — “Following its huge success last year, we will be holding another three-day Christmas extravaganza for our customers. Not only will we be offering discounts and giving gifts to our customers, there will be champagne cocktails and nibbles to create a fun, buzzing atmosphere.”

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SAPPHO CLISSITT Owner, Lily & Rose, Norfolk

59 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

EXPERTS —

ADVICE Industry experts answer your retail questions —

HOW CAN USING WHAT ARE THE STYLISTS ENHANCE THE PITFALLS OF CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE? TERMS & CONDITIONS? As an independent store owner, you want to be known for the fabulous ranges you stock, informative staff and excellent customer service, but this will come to nothing if you don’t have properly trained staff.

It’s that time of the year. As a brand owner, you are wondering whether you will be paid by retailers or if they are simply intending to trade through Christmas before going bust.

Not only do your staff need to know your product range, they also need to understand what is special about particular garments and how these can help different body shapes and colouring. Their fashion and style knowledge will also, of course, be important. Your staff will need to understand, too, what is special about each individual client. Customers come to you for advice, and you want to build their trust in you. It’s therefore worth investing in companies who can help train staff on the key concepts of styling. Giving your staff the right tools to be able to identify the most flattering colours and styles for your customers will show dividends at the end of day. You want to allow your staff to be proactive and knowledgeable to increase sales and generate repeat business.

Clients’ lifestyles and personalities need to be considered when putting clothes together for your customers. You will have clients who want to hit the right garment and go, while others will be happy to wander around, try it on and chat. Your staff need to be able to “eyeball” your customers to figure out what type of client she is, and to be able to present her with what she will like. Your staff will take great pleasure in working with clients they know they can help in choosing the right garments. From the customer’s perspective, having a knowledgeable member staff who can help them with their decision-making will improve their shopping experience. In effect, each member of your sales team becomes a personal stylist and is able to help the customer put together the best possible outfit from the range you sell.

Bringing a guest stylist for special occasions is always an added bonus for your clients. Do you host a private shopping evening or fashion preview when your new collections come in? Are you planning a special event around choosing outfits for Christmas? If you do, you might also like to consider working with a stylist. They could help you put different looks together for a mini fashion show or display and break down your collection to suit the various elements that make up your target market. To make it more fun and informative, how about picking two or three people from the audience and giving them a makeover with a big reveal at the end of the evening? You’ll be amazed at how well this can work and how it can encourage customers to try on elements of your new collection.

While taking a long time to pay an invoice may be a sign of a well-run company that is prudently managing cash flow, a brand owner cannot be sure that nothing is amiss. Certainly, sudden delays in making payments should set alarm bells ringing. If this occurs, the brand owner should reach for its standard terms and conditions of sale (T&Cs). But, have the T&Cs been properly made part of the contract with the retailer? Lawyers are often amazed as to the large incidence of clients failing to do so.

If the T&Cs are not made part of the contract with the retailer, the fact that they were drafted by the best law firm in the country will be irrelevant. They will simply be unenforceable. As such, the brand owner should make sure that at the very onset of a commercial relationship, the retailer signs a copy of them. Alternatively, it is acceptable if the brand owner can show they were brought to the retailer’s attention, although this may be an evidential issue. Either way, the brand owner should make clear reference to the T&Cs on order forms, confirmations, delivery notes and invoices.

If the T&Cs have been properly incorporated, do they contain a retention of title clause? However, often retention of title clauses try to extend protection to the proceeds of sale when a brand owner’s goods are onwardly sold. Unless extreme care is taken over the drafting, and correct procedures are followed, this provision may be void unless registered at Companies House. Not only that, but the inclusion of an invalid proceeds of sale provision may void the rest of the retention of title clause. Often, a knee-jerk reaction of insolvency practitioners will be to reject claims that are lodged with them. Brand owners should not be afraid to fight their corner and take legal advice as to the validity of the claim. Equally, the retailer’s directors may not always be able to hide behind the corporate veil of a limited liability company. If they have traded past the point where the company could not have avoided insolvency or made personal promises, they may be personally liable for the company’s debts.

Veronique Henderson, creative director of Colour Me Beautiful.

For more information visit www.cmbretail.co.uk or call 020 7627 5211.

Stephen Sidkin is a partner in Fox Williams LLP Visit www.fashionlaw.co.uk or www.foxwilliams.com

60 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

DIRECTORY —

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61 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — DECEMBER 2012

DIRECTORY —

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NAMES AND NUMBERS American College 0033 975182135 www.americancollegeusa.com Australia Luxe 020 7234 0295 www.australialuxeco.co.uk Axara 0033 (0)143636320 www.axara.com/en Bandolera 07769 700037 www.bandolera.com Barbara Boner 07531 936315 www.barbaraboner.co.uk Barbour 0800 009 988 www.barbour.com Beloved 020 7636 6868 www.darlingclothes.com Bensimon 0845 094 4012 www.bensimon.com Bill + Mar 07540 145111 www.billandmar.com Blend 020 3205 0355 www.blendcompany.com Bulaggi 0031 (0)356212757 www.bulaggi.com Closed 0049 4044184066 www.closed.com Custommade 020 8960 6161 www.custommade.dk Emma Louise London 01707 657027 www.emmalouiselondon.com Frank Lyman 0044 1412040699 www.franklyman.com Firetrap 020 8753 000 www.firetrap.com Freeman T Porter 0033 (0)387937161 www.freemantporter.com Hauber 020 7323 6100 www.hauber-fashion.de L2 Mae 07713 031730 www.l2mae.com Merc 020 7495 8538 www.merc.com MiH Jeans 020 7349 9030 www.mih-jeans.com Mimi Berry 020 7729 6699 www.mimiberry.co.uk Moka London 020 7384 6150 www.mokalondon.com Noa Noa 020 72476 265 www.noanoa.com Part Two 020 8875 5801 www.parttwo.com Princess Goes Hollywood 020 7434 1994 www.princess-goes-hollywood.com Rich & Royal 0049 0714127680 www.richandroyal.de Schott 07957 247411 www.schottnyc.com Steilmann 020 7291 0522 www.steilmann.com Twist & Tango 07930 539700 www.twisttango.com Yumi 020 8961 2299 www.yumidirect.co.uk

62 WomensWeAr buyer — deCember 2012

THe FInAL Word —

HOW DO YOU SWITCH OFF AFTER A LONG DAY AT WORK? This month’s panel reveals what helps them wind down after a busy day at the office...

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GemmA sLATer Brand manager, Madam Rage — “To switch off after a hectic day’s work I love nothing more than a lovely long soak in the bath, with a glass of rosé wine and a weekly fix of mr Grey!”

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sALLy HArTFIeLd Founder and designer, Matilda & Quinn

— “Despite being useless at sport in my school days, I took up running a couple of years ago and it’s since become my wind-down tonic. It keeps me fit, sane and is a good opportunity to listen to new music.”

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dAnIeL bLAKe Womenswear designer, Daniel Blake — “After a manic day at my east London studio, the thing I like to do most of all to unwind is take my lovely wife out for dinner to one of the many eateries along the fashionable bermondsey street, which is now home to the White Cube gallery. I love to soak up the atmosphere on a winter’s evening, returning home along the river and taking in the breathtaking view of Tower bridge at night.”

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Anne LombArd Founder and director, Oh My Love — “my favourite way to unwind after a long day is to cuddle up on the sofa with my French bulldog, buster, a glass of vino rouge and a big bowl of sweet popcorn.”

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VAnessA Knox Founder and head designer, Vanessa Knox — “my favourite way to unwind is to go home and spend time with my two children. This isn’t the always the most relaxing way to spend an evening (especially if homework and revision is concerned!), but it is fun and we always have a laugh. The minute I come through the door and hear their voices, all the stress from the day is gone. Throw in a nice glass of wine and I’m set!”

— KIm HALL UK sales agent, Nat & Nin

— “I unwind at the end of the day by debriefing Charlie the dog on how his day has been, and then learning how my day has been a doddle compared to my wife’s busy day. Wine helps.”

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