ISSUE 76 FOOTWEAR AND FASHION EXTRAS fashionextras-online.co.uk £6.00
— TAKING FLIGHT THE SHOWS NOT TO MISS NEXT SEASON
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REGULARS & FEATURES — 05 EDITOR’S COMMENT — 06 NEWS — 10 THE EDGE — 15 EXHIBITION CALENDAR — 22 THE YEAR THAT WAS — 24 TIME TO GIVE — 48 THE INSIDER — 50 IN THEIR SHOES —
ACCESSORIES — 37 UPDATE — 38 STYLE FILE — 39 ON TREND — 40 AHEAD OF THE PACK — 42 INTERVIEW — 44 BTAA —
FOOTWEAR — 27 UPDATE — 28 STYLE FILE — 29 ON TREND — 30 PREVIEW — 32 INTERVIEW — 34 FIT FOR PURPOSE —
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CONTENTS DECEMBER
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Front cover
Dates 2013 09.-11.3.2013
21.-23.9.2013
Messe Offenbach GmbH Kaiserstr. 108 -112 D - 63065 Offenbach am Main Fon + 49 69 829755 - 0 Fax + 49 69 829755 - 60 www.messe-offenbach.de info@messe-offenbach.de
SHELVES AND THE SHOEMAKERS FROM EXHIBITION STANDS TO SHOP SHELVES, MOST OF US IN THE FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY ONLY SEE THE FINISHED PRODUCT, SO IT WAS A FANTASIC INSIGHT TO ATTEND THE COUNTRY’S ONLY FOOTWEAR DESIGN COURSE TO MEET THE DESIGNERS OF THE FUTURE.
TILL BELLS RINGING Amid predictions that seasonal sales will be three per cent up on last year, retailers are looking ahead to a lucrative Christmas season.
IN BRIEF
whErE FashioN ComEs TogEThEr
accessories
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footwear
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woman
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lingerie & swimwear
17-19 February 2013, NEC Birmingham To reserve a stand call +44 (0)1484 846069 Find out more and register for your visit at moda-uk.co.uk
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RETAIL VIEW
ADVICE
WINDOW DRESSING FOR CHRISTMAS GRAHAM SWEET IS A VISUAL MERCHANDISER AND FOUNDER OF GRAHAM SWEET STUDIO (WWW.GRAHAMSWEET.COM), A LEADING SUPPLIER OF QUALITY POLYSTYRENE DISPLAY PROPS. AT THIS TIME OF YEAR, THE STUDIO SPECIALISES IN EXCLUSIVE CHRISTMAS DECORATIONS.
FIVE STEPS TO: USING SCENT TO ENHANCE THE RETAIL EXPERIENCE by Christopher Pratt
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27 & 28 January 2013 Business Design Centre, London A great mix of children’s products A unique buying experience
Apply to exhibit now online at bubblelondon.com
Photography: steven visneau, swvphoto.com
Register to visit now online at bubblelondon.com
Read our blog, follow our twitter and become a fan!
Online 5 36 access f the o s y da year
Exhibition calendar THE ESSENTIAL TRADE SHOW DATES FOR THE NEW SEASON ACROSS THE FOOTWEAR AND ACCESSORIES SECTORS.
SPONSORED BY
YOU DON’T HAVE TO GO FAR TO FIND INSPIRATION | SECC, GLASGOW
20th -22ND JANUARY
See over 500 of the best Scottish and international suppliers of home and giftware. Choose from thousands of products on display from established exhibitors and many exciting newcomers. With all this on your doorstep, you don’t have to go far to find great ideas to grow your business in 2013. To register for your free entry badge, see a list of exhibitors or find further info please visit scotlandstradefairs.co.uk
ow h s ut w o ne lay
THE YEAR It was the year that saw the UK host the Olympics and celebrate the Queen’s Diam independent retail sector? Christina Williams asked six
“THINGS ARE GETTING BETTER”
“WE’RE STILL SMILING”
“INTERNET IS THE MAIN GROWTH”
THAT WAS ond Jubilee but, amid all the patriotism of 2012, how was business for those in the store owners to take a look back over their year in retail.
“WE CAPITALISED ON AN EARLY SUMMER”
“I’M EVER THE OPTIMIST”
“OLYMPIC TOURISM HAD A POSITIVE EFFECT”
A TIME TO GIVE With the festive season upon us, FE caught up with some of the industry’s key suppliers to find out how they are helping retailers to maximise their Christmas potential.
whErE FashioN ComEs TogEThEr
accessories
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footwear
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woman
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lingerie & swimwear
17-19 February 2013, NEC Birmingham To reserve a stand call +44 (0)1484 846069 Find out more and register for your visit at moda-uk.co.uk
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gent
FOOTWEAR EVOLUTION OF BALLET Tipped as the hottest trend of the season, the smoking slipper is the ballet pump’s more sophisticated cousin, and the sole focus of the debut collection from new footwear label Jemima Vine.
FOOTWEAR COLLECTION NEWS SPARKLY HEELS BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN
IAN PAVER THE SOCIETY OF SHOE FITTERS
NO BUSINESS LIKE IT Combining a background in show business with a debut in shoe business, Christopher Ciccone – brother of Madonna – makes his footwear design debut in February at Moda Footwear.
GLITTER BUG Get the glitter bug from our pick of the season’s most sparkly heels, ranging from platforms to stilettos, in medal-worthy gold and silver. —
BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN
A year on from its launch, Lacoste Live footwear returns to Bread & Butter Berlin with a new portfolio of styles targeting the 18-30 year old consumer. Echoing the style hallmarks of the Live apparel collection – which launched in 2011 – the Live footwear range adds a more contemporary and trend-driven approach to Lacoste’s traditional design hallmarks. Carryover styles for a/w 13 include the Croxton (pictured) and the Lacoste Live’s casual dress shoe, Torpel. www.lacoste.com/live
Owned by Spanish footwear manufacturer Mascaro, Pretty Ballerinas draws on a heritage stretching over 95 years while remaining at the forefront of contemporary footwear trends with its ballerina silhouettes. This season specifically sees the brand build on its recent colour palette diversification, with pastel shades and neon brights taking centre stage alongside striking prints. The label also debuts its new collection of shopper bags, designed to coordinate with its bestselling ballerina styles. www.prettyballerinas.com
The a/w 13 offer from Wolverine 1000 Miles introduces a collection of boots inspired by patterns from the Wolverine archive. Introducing three new styles for men – the Loomis brogue oxford boot, the Pierson six-inch boot and the Morley eight-inch boot – the designs are handcrafted in the US from leather originating from Chicago’s Horween tannery. For women, meanwhile, there are five new styles in the autumn collection, including the Dorthea – a 12 inch lace-up boot – and its six-inch counterpart, the Winnie. www.wolverine1000mile.com
BREAD & BUTTER RETURNS TO BERLIN’S TEMPELHOF AIRPORT ON 15-17 JANUARY, BRINGING TOGETHER A SELECTION OF CONTEMPORARY URBAN LABELS ACROSS THE MEN’S AND WOMEN’S SECTORS. FE LOOKS AHEAD TO SOME OF THE FOOTWEAR BRANDS EXHIBITING AT THE EVENT.
Australia Luxe launches its new, exclusive premium line at Bread & Butter Berlin, pushing the boundaries of its signature sheepskin classics with Swarovski trims and flocked fabrics. Targeting the luxury sector, the new line also features non-sheepskin styles such as handmade leather boots. The brand’s mainline range, meanwhile, focuses on deep hues of plum, nude pink and blue with colour pops of on-trend neons. New silhouettes include sheepskin-lined wedge boots and trainers. www.australialuxeco.com
Dutch footwear label Floris van Bommel takes the next step in its progressive journey this season with a new collection that aims to test the limits of fashion affinity in the men’s footwear market. Having previously experimented with colour accents, the brand introduces coloured suedes, pastel leather uppers and vivid pops of red, orange and blue across its range, complemented by the label’s signature lightweight soles. www.vanbommel.com
Kangaroos presents its classic Combat style (pictured) in a range of new colours and materials for a/w 13, celebrating the heritage of one of its most popular designs. Introduced in 1979, the Combat became Kangaroos’ signature style, establishing itself as the brand’s hallmark lightweight sneaker, featuring pocket detailing. Now firmly established as the brand behind the “shoes with pockets” ethos, Kangaroos has established a global presence over the past three decades. www.kangaroos.com
IAN PAVER BUYING DIRECTOR, PAVERS
With over 100 stores nationwide, an own-label collection and a home shopping television channel, Pavers is the independent footwear retail success story of the industry.
“It was beyond me as a teenager why I wasn’t allowed a pair of Dr Martens, even though the house was full of them”
FIT FOR PURPOSE Amid the news that The Society of Shoe Fitters is planning to organise a national shoe-fitting week next year, can a shoe-fitting qualification really give independents the edge over their high street competition? Christina Williams investigates.
“The great feedback I have had from customers is a reflection of the knowledge and skills I have gained from The Society of Shoe Fitters, and my membership has been worth every penny”
ACCESSORIES BACK IN THE SADDLE A year on from its inception, classic British handbag label Aubrey returns with a new seasonal offer designed to accompany women throughout the spring months.
ACCESSORIES COLLECTION NEWS IPAD AND LAPTOP CASES LUGGAGE STYLES FOR S/S 13
PAUL’S BOUTIQUE’S PAUL SLADE BTAA
WOULDN’T YOU AGREE...?
Inspired by hits of 1988, including Phil Collins’ Groovy Kind of Love, each style in Fiorelli’s spring collection is named after the tunes of the brand’s year of inception.
CASE IN POINT Trendy iPad and laptop cases are the perfect accessories for the modern woman on the move. Check out FE’s selection of luxe styles available for short order now. —
AHEAD OF THE PACK COMBINING STYLE WITH PRACTICALITY, THE LUGGAGE SECTOR IS TASKED WITH PACKING FEATURES AND FASHION INTO ITS LATEST DESIGNS. FE ROUNDS UP SOME OF THE KEY STYLES AVAILABLE FOR S/S 13.
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TEN YEARS AGO, QUIRKY DESIGNER BRAND PAUL’S BOUTIQUE STARTED OUT WITH A SMALL STALL ON LONDON’S PORTOBELLO MARKET. FAST FORWARD TO 2012 AND THE LABEL IS PREPARING FOR THE NEXT PHASE IN ITS DEVELOPMENT. ISABELLA GRIFFITHS GOT THE FULL STORY FROM FOUNDER PAUL SLADE.
GLOBAL GATHERING
“We’ve talked about opening a flagship store, but have decided to focus on the website. There is too much risk in bricks and mortar”
BTAA NEWS www.btaa.org.uk
Following its achievement of being awarded the runner-up prize in the BTAA Awards last month, jewellery label Accessories by Park Lane has unveiled a collection for the new season comprising striking designs in both gold and silver finishes. Since its inception in 1994, the brand has established a nationwide presence with its contemporary designs and, having outgrown its previous premises in Knaresborough, moved its showroom to a location just minutes from Harrogate town centre earlier this year. www.parklaneonline.com
NAMES & NUMBERS
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TO DIE FOR
STRESS RELIEF
— Justin Taggart, product manager for footwear labels Chipmunks, Free Step and Pajar, selects his favourite things that he cannot live without.
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BEST OF THE WEST
SHOP ADDICT — EC ONE —
THE BIG QUESTION We reveal the personality behind the industry
WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO FIND IN YOUR CHRISTMAS STOCKING? Halle Berry, please. Failing that, an alliance between the correct seasonal weather and the time of year.
A partridge, a pear tree and the winning Euromillions numbers.
Celebrating its 15th anniversary this month, jewellery retailer EC One has evolved into one of the capital’s key destination stores for contemporary jewellery labels.
A Kindle Fire, and the gorgeous Levant dress in turquoise from Lagom if Santa’s feeling generous.
OPEN FOR BUSINESS
A crystal ball to tell me where Norwich City will finish in the Premier League, and how many of Delia Smith’s pies will appear in my stocking; the best ranges in the world always come to life after a pie from Delia.
WAYNE HEMINGWAY Designer — Red or Dead founder Wayne Hemingway is currently at the helm of Hemingway Design, a multi-design agency with a conscience, and the organiser of Vintage Festival, an annual event celebrating seven decades of British cool.
10-12 FEBRUARY 2013 SAATCHI GALLERY | LONDON
AUTUMN/WINTER C O L L E C T I O N S scoop-international.com Meredyth Sparks, Roxy, 2008, Digital print on Sintra, 27 pieces, 182 x 171 x 231 cm,(c) Meredyth Sparks, 2008 Image courtesy of the Saatchi Gallery, London