FE Magazine

 ISSUE 79 FOOTWEAR AND FASHION EXTRAS fashionextras-online.co.uk £6.00

— SETTING THE SCENE KEY A/W 13 FOOTWEAR LOOKS AS SEEN AT MODA

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     

         

    

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REGULARS — 05 EDITOR’S COMMENT  — 06 NEWS  — 10 THE EDGE  — 12 REVIEW   — 14 REVIEW   — 44 THE INSIDER  — 46 IN THEIR SHOES  —

   

FOOTWEAR — 19 UPDATE  — 20 STYLE FILE  — 21 ON TREND  — 22 REVIEW  — 31 PEOPLE  — 32 INTERVIEW  —

ACCESSORIES — 35 UPDATE  — 36 STYLE FILE  — 37 ON TREND  — 38 REVIEW  — 40 INTERVIEW  — 42 PREVIEW  — 43 BTAA  —

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CONTENTS MARCH   

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 

Front cover 

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 

   

TURNING A CORNER AFTER SEVERAL YEARS OF HEARING ABOUT BRANDS’ STRUGGLES TO SURVIVE AND THE DEMISE OF RETAILERS ALL OVER THE UK, THE POSITIVE MOOD AT MODA LAST MONTH WAS A BREATH OF FRESH AIR FOR THE INDUSTRY.

            

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                             

POSITIVITY AMONG MODA BUYERS Buoyant show reported by brands and buyers at most recent edition, suggesting new era for trade.

                                   

IN BRIEF           

         

         

 





 

  

 

          

        

        

                             

               

          

            

         

        

 





               

                       

     

             

                           

               

                  

               

            



                 

 



  

  

 

RETAIL VIEW

ADVICE

HOW IMPORTANT IS COLOUR TO YOUR BRAND? Karen Haller is one of the UK’s leading authorities in applied colour psychology. She runs her own colour and design consultancy specialising in business branding and interiors. www.karenhaller.com             

           

       

        

     

     

                                              

FIVE STEPS TO: REDUCING ONLINE RETURNS

by Lloyd Williams           

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       

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     

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        

04

      

05

        

 



  

 

Scoop International Last month saw the premium womenswear exhibition return to its home at London’s Saatchi Gallery, presenting a range of the industry’s most exclusive collections. FE rounds up some of the best footwear and accessories seen at the event.  — Italian handbag label Coccinelle unveiled a new collection for a/w 13 at Scoop, revealing a focus on soft, textural finishes in deep jewel shades including burnt orange.

The brand maintains its commitment to style hallmarks of simplicity, detail and quality for the new season and continues to handcraft its styles at its Italian headquarters near Parma. www.coccinelle.com

 — Ethical accessories label Bottletop returned to Scoop with its latest collection of bags, handmade through schemes implemented in Africa and Brazil from discarded bottletops. This season sees the launch of a new technique, which adds an enamel finish to the bottletops, in autumnal shades such as burgundy. www.bottletop.org



 — Building on its signature sole unit inspired by the traditional Swedish clog, Swedish Hasbeens presents a diversified range of styles for the new season, including ankle boots in a range of contemporary shades. www.sewnagency.co.uk

— New to Scoop, Halcyon Days arrived at the exhibition with an intriguing collection of silk scarves, jewellery and pill boxes featuring famous works of art. The brand’s latest range includes its Panthers by Michael Roberts styles (pictured), created in conjunction with former Vanity Fair editor Michael Roberts. www.halcyondays.co.uk



  — Jewellery label Mirabelle made its Scoop debut, presenting a handmade, Fairtrade line for a/w 13. Crafted from 22k gold plated metals, brass, semi-precious stones, carved mother of pearl, wood and shells from trusted sources, the brand’s offer comprised delicate styles as well as statement pieces. www.mirabellejewellery.co.uk

 — New to the UK and Scoop, German jewellery label Namage unveiled a range for the new autumn season, capturing the urban, contemporary style hallmarks of its native Berlin. Skulls feature throughout the brand’s latest collection, as well as colour pops in neon shades. www.namage.de

— Making its Scoop debut, Italian label Gala Gloves presented a range of intricate designs crafted from supersoft leather at the brand’s headquarters in Naples. Having been established for over 80 years, the label has a firm presence across Europe as well as its native Italy, and focuses on feminine embellishment for the new season. www.galagloves.it









 

The Exhibition at London Fashion Week FE’s Natalie Dawson took to the cobbles of Somerset House to discover what The Exhibition at London Fashion Week had to offer for a/w 13.

Ruda Rings

Assad Mounser

Shourouk

                                   

                       

                          

Lost Property of London

Mawi

Joanne Stoker

                             

                       

                          

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 

   

FOOTWEAR AMAZONIAN TREASURE This season sees the arrival of French footwear label Piola to the UK, bringing the best qualities of natural Peruvian rubber to contemporary footwear.                        

  FOOTWEAR COLLECTION NEWS    BALLET PUMPS 

 MODA FOOTWEAR

  FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY AWARDS    CHIE MIHARA

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  

  



 

            

             

 

             

  

               

RICH TAPESTRY Spanish footwear label Pons Quintana reinterprets its signature style for the new autumn season, adapting its heritage for the contemporary market.

            

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COOL KICKS Men’s lace-up plimsolls are always a runaway success come spring. Tap into the trend with FE’s pick of in-season styles available to get in-store now.

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         

 







  

 

 

WALK THIS WAY THE KEY TRENDS FROM THIS SEASON’S EDITION OF MODA FOOTWEAR.

  





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   

 

  



Yee ha!

Cowboy boots were one of the hottest trends spotted at Moda Footwear this season, with a number of big name brands putting their own spin on a classic design. Looking particularly strong for a/w 13 were distressed leather and suede styles with added details such as fringing, floral embroidery, snakeskin panels and studs and sequins.











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   

 

  



Bow selector Ladylike bows adorn this season’s pumps, with pointed toe courts providing the perfect finishing touch to smart, tailored trends, looking polished and professional and elongating the leg as they go. Many brands chose to stay true to a traditionally wintery palette for a/w 13, while red and rust tones will provide a welcome lift for autumn.













   



 

Riding high The traditional riding boot silhouette is more popular than ever, and this season buyers at Moda were inundated with a choice of glossy leathers in classic tan and black tones.

Meanwhile, the addition of forest green, navy and purple shades kept the boot trend looking fresh. Gold hardware and quilting are the high fashion touches that transform the humble boot into a bestseller. 

  

 







  

 

 







Twinkle toes Ballet flats had an update for a/w 13 in high-shine metallics and patent leathers with contrast toe-cap detail. Teal, nude and gold tones, along with classic black and white combinations, all made an appearance, while spikes, studs and bows were the on-trend details not to be missed. 











  

 

 







Autumn shades Buyers were treated to a wash of autumnal colour across men’s footwear styles, and nowhere was this more apparent than on suede lace-ups. From desert boots to derbies, burgundy and blueberry shades were popular, with forest green and rich tan also key. 









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   

 

  



Suited and booted Smart boots with brogue detailing once again dominated the a/w 13 footwear line-up at Moda last month. Brands chose to play it safe with classic tan, brown, navy and black tones, adding in thicker soles for comfort and performance in winter weather. 









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   

 

  



Utility mode Trainers and boots took on an urban twist this season, underscored by military tones khaki, petrol and stone. The emphasis was on the practical details such as thicker soles and fur linings for many, while others chose interesting fabric mixes.











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   

 

  



To the point Brogues look stylish and sharp this season with narrower fits and decidedly pointy toes.

Ranging from contemporary to classic designs, brands embraced the new shape, highlighting it with high-shine finishes.





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

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 

  

INDUSTRY WINNERS The second edition of the Footwear Industry Awards saw the footwear trade celebrate its achievements on the first evening of Moda Footwear. Christina Williams went along to the event, which took place at Birmingham’s Motorcycle Museum.           

Philip Marsh (pictured centre), MD, Chatham, with the Chatham team

Miguel Simon, export manager; Alistair West, agent; Robert Cambridge, agent, all Garvalin, with Emily West, agent, Umi

Peter Rule and James Challis, sales managers, Front; Nigel Styles, sales manager, Azor

Chris Gorrod, UK MD, and James Podmore, sales manager, Rieker

Amy Joseph, assistant, and Stephen Joseph, MD for UK sales, Caprice

Kathryn Sherwood, sales manager, FE; Nick West, UK agent, Garvalin; Sharon Le Goff, sales manager, CWB magazine

The winners

Raquel Monroy, marketing manager; Caroline Mackinnon, executive assistant; Rachael Toft, visitor relations manager; and Tabara N’diaye, marketing executive, all Moda

      Footwear Brand of the Year: Rieker Men’s Footwear Brand of the Year: Church’s Ladies’ Footwear Brand of the Year: Rieker Children’s Footwear Brand of the Year: Start-Rite Comfort / Wellness Brand of the Year: Crocs Fashion Brand of the Year: Fly London Sports Footwear Brand of the Year: Skechers Outdoor Footwear Brand of the Year: Hi-Tec Men’s Independent Retailer of the Year: Bishops, Coleraine, County Londonderry Ladies’ Independent Retailer of the Year: North Shoes, Lincolnshire Children’s Independent Retailer of the Year: Belles Enfants, Dorset and Hampshire Independent Sports / Outdoor Footwear Retailer of the Year: Whalley Warm & Dry, Lancashire Best Use of Technology: Geox New Independent Retailer of the Year: Little Soles, Warsash, Hampshire Multiple Retailer of the Year: John Lewis Student Shoe-fitter of the Year: Jim Luck, Luck of Louth Independent Family Retailer of the Year: North Shoes, Lincolnshire E-tailer of the Year: Cherry Blossom Platinum Shoe Award: Marcus Baker, Legero Leader in Customer Service: Rieker Shoe Care & Accessories Brand of the Year: Cherry Blossom Private Label of the Year: Ascot International Footwear Designer of the Year: Aruna Seth Personality of the Year: Charles Clinkard 

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 

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CHIE MIHARA

The founder and designer of the eponymous label reveals what makes her tick and the secret to the global success of her quirky designs.  

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 

                                                             

      

       “A lot of brands have taken away         quality to find better price, and also         taken away fun and creativity from

the design to make an easier sale, but that's taking away the integrity of the brand, too”

                                               

                                                                                 

                

The sensation of walking barefoot on grass, anytime, anywhere.

Robby Elliott: 07849 382 347 Joe Cordingley: 07813 210 232 Email: bluecowtrading@hotmail.co.uk

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  

  

ACCESSORIES INSPIRED

BY NATURE This season sees Australian accessories label Helen Kaminski develop its global presence with the unveiling of its s/s 13 range.

Crafted from natural materials and inspired by its Australian heritage, the brand arrives in the UK with all the charm of the lifestyle down under.                   

  ACCESSORIES COLLECTION NEWS 

 DROP EARRINGS

  MODA ACCESSORIES

  MIKE HISCOCK, MODALU   BCTF, HARROGATE   BTAA



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

 

  

  



              

             

 

            

  

               

TO CREATE AND CONSTRUCT Handbag label Modalu takes a philosophical twist this season with a collection that questions the difference between styles that are constructed and those that are created.

             

 

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 



MAKE A STATEMENT On the s/s 13 catwalks, big name designers such as Dolce & Gabbana, Versace and Gucci ensured the trend for large statement jewellery will be around for some time to come. Follow in their footsteps with FE’s selection of on-trend and in-season styles.

—  

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

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    

         

   





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 

 

MODA ACCESSORIES MODA ACCESSORIES PLAYED HOST TO A COMPREHENSIVE SELECTION OF NEW AND RETURNING ACCESSORIES LABELS AT BIRMINGHAM’S NEC LAST MONTH. FE ROUNDS UP SOME OF THE STAND-OUT STYLES OF THE EVENT. 

          

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 

         

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

        



        

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

       





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 

 

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

        

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  

       



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 

         

        



        

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 

         

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

         



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 

 

MIKE HISCOCK CEO, TLG BRANDS Following the high-profile endorsement from Pippa Middleton – sister to the Duchess of Cambridge – Modalu has become the handbag brand of the moment. Part of the TLG stable, the label has plans to build on its success throughout 2013, as CEO Mike Hiscock reveals.                                                                     

                          



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

  

BCTF The British Craft Trade Fair brings together over 500 British exhibitors from the fashion accessories, gift and homeware sectors at Harrogate’s Great Yorkshire Showground next month. FE looks ahead to some of the brands showing at the event, taking place on 7-9 April. 

                                   

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

                                        

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 

                                         



                                          

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

                                    

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

                                      

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BTAA NEWS    www.btaa.org.uk    

Ahead of the summer months, BTAA member Content & Calm offers travelling parents a solution to the age-old problem of children’s boredom during long journeys. The brand’s TrayKit is designed to be strapped to the tray table of a train or aeroplane or can be hung from the car seat in front, and can be used to store a child’s favourite toys and activities for the journey ahead. The tray, which can also be opened and used as a standalone device, fits within airlines’ hand baggage dimensions, and is crafted from a durable, wipe-clean fabric. www.contentandcalm.com

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                         

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        

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         

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           

 

         



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

  

IN RESPONSE Last month’s report about Clare Rayner’s Indie Easter campaign struck a chord with readers trading independently in their own communities all over the UK. Easter is a good time to focus on independent retail in South Shields because the area has always hosted a fantastic Easter celebration. The holiday period starts with parades marching through the town centre and then, because we are a coastal town, people head down to the coast to enjoy time with their families and traditional fish & chips. Both of our stores are generally very busy in the lead up to Easter because lads want to buy two or three outfits to see them through the weekend of partying from Good Friday onwards.

Although we do not have any fashion independents trading near us, we do have a variety of other independents and we have a good relationship with these store owners. I think we could work together to promote South Shields as a destination for shopping. Most shopping areas are the same at the moment, with either boarded-up stores or charity and mobile phone shops taking up spaces on high streets. Along with high rents and rates, it’s no wonder that independents are finding it hard. However, I certainly think there is a lot of life in the independent retail scene yet if we work together.

TO DIE FOR — Pete Winkworth, director at Toy Soldier PR and Marketing Solutions, selects his favourite things that he cannot live without.

—

Nigel Binnie, owner, Northern Threads, South Shields.

GIANT LEAP FOR ONE SMALL STEP                 

ECCO SCALES NEW HEIGHTS               

                

                      

            



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

  

SHOP ADDICT — RAILTON WARD SHOES —

THE BIG QUESTION We reveal the personality behind the industry

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WHICH SHOES DID YOU WEAR AT MODA FOOTWEAR?

   I opted for a pair of Grenson shoes because they are always comfortable enough to wear throughout the entire day of an exhibition spent on your feet.

  — I always wear Softwaves shoes at exhibitions because, even though they have heels, they are comfortable enough to wear all day long.

First established in 1984, Railton Ward Shoes was taken over by husband-and-wife team Paul and Emma Woolley in 2006 following the retirement of the store’s original owners. Seven years on, the shop has retained many of its original staff and is thriving in the West Sussex village of Findon.

 — Our newly launched Kusa flip-flops are the perfect choice for exhibition footwear because the unique faux grass lined inner sole moulds to the feet for all-day comfort.

                

OPEN FOR BUSINESS

           

          

  I opted for our John White calf leather style for both style and comfort.

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

   

CHARLES CLINKARD Managing director, Charles Clinkard —      

The Clinkard Group has grown to become the leading independent footwear retailer in the North East and one of the largest independents in the UK. Current managing director and grandson of the founders, Charles Clinkard now heads the business and recently won the accolade of Personality of the Year at The Footwear Industry Awards 2013.

             

                             

   

   

 

 

                  

21-23 JULY 2013 P H I L L I P S G A L L E R Y S A ATC H I G A L L E RY

scoop-international.com Gosha Ostretsov, Sex in the City, 2008 (c) Stephen White, 2012 Image courtesy of the Saatchi Gallery, London

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                 