WWB Magazine

MARCH 2013 — ISSUE 225 WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk

£6.95

— TIMELESS DESIGN Exclusive interview with designer Chie Mihara —

— DECADE OF SUCCESS Why Love From Australia is more than a one trick pony —

— STEP UP The key footwear trends for autumn/winter 2013 —

— FRONT ROW STYLE WWB reports on the hottest looks from the catwalks —

03 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH 2013

CONTENTS —

REGULARS

FEATURES

FASHION

5 EDITOR’S COMMENT — 6 NEWS — 10 BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear — 12 TALKING POINT — 54 RETAIL FORUM The latest news from the industry — 58 UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL With Charlotte Egelund — COVER J SHOES —

14 Q&A With footwear designer Chie Mihara — 26 LOVE STORY Love From Australia celebrates its 10th anniversary — 28 SOLE SISTERS The key footwear trends for a/w 13 — 35 FEET FIRST The footwear brands to watch — 38 ACCESSORIES ROUND-UP —

16 STYLE FILE — 19 10 OF THE BEST Cobalt blue — 21 MAKE A STATEMENT Drop earrings to get in-store now — 22 FASHION RADAR — 42 SCOOP REVIEW — 44 THE BEST OF MODA WOMAN — 46 COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK — 49 THE EXHIBITION AT LFW — 50 FRONT ROW SEAT Highlights from the a/w 13 catwalks —

21-23 JULY 2013 P H I L L I P S G A L L E R Y S A ATC H I G A L L E RY

scoop-international.com Gosha Ostretsov, Sex in the City, 2008 (c) Stephen White, 2012 Image courtesy of the Saatchi Gallery, London

05 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH 2013 Editor Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com — Contributors Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Kirkpatrick laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — Fashion writer Natalie Dawson natalie@ras-publishing.com — Editorial assistant Carey Whitwam carey.whitwam@ite-exhibitions.com — Sub editor Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — Design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — Senior advertising sales manager Mina Parmar mina@ras-publishing.com — Sales executive Jasprit Sihra jasprit@ras-publishing.com — Subscriptions Caroline Mackinnon caroline@ite-moda.co.uk — Production director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — Commercial director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com — Reprographics/printing ImageData Group 01482 652323

— WWB is published 11 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 — Copyright © 2013 WWB Magazine Limited.

All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

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RAS Publishing is an ITE Group PLC company A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication WWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include MWB, Footwear & Fashion Extras and CWB.

COMMENT —

WHEN THINGS ARE TOUGH, IT’S NOT EASY TO KEEP A SENSE OF OPTIMISM. BUT IT’S WORTH REMEMBERING THAT DIFFICULT TIMES ALSO OFFER OPPORTUNITIES, AND IT’S UP TO US TO GRAB THEM. — “You’re always so upbeat in your magazine,” is something I hear a lot from you, dear readers, be it retailers, agents or brands. While it’s always nice to hear positive feedback, it also leaves me with a slight sense of paranoia, as I question whether it comes across as forced positivity that most of you perceive as removed from reality.

I can assure you that, at WWB, we are far from trying to force misplaced optimism when it is clearly such a tough climate out there. In fact, those who know me well would laugh at the assumption, as they know I tend to be quite the pessimist – though I prefer to think of myself as a realist, of course – so it’s far from my intention to make things seem better than they are. However, speaking to a broad cross-section of the industry and especially the independent sector on a weekly basis, the magazine gives me the privilege to witness countless success stories and speak to some amazing people who constantly reinvent, innovate and adapt, and are simply impressive with their proactive attitudes and sheer knowledge and skill. If we’re positive, it’s because, quite simply, positive stories DO exist, and because it’s not all doom and gloom. Fact.

If you’re an indie operating on your own in Town X, Y or Z and in relative isolation from other fellow indies – especially in the clothing sector – it’s easy to get stuck in your bubble and not see how good the sector is, how many great

indies the industry still has – and how many new ones are emerging, despite a tough economy that has certainly claimed its victims.

I’m not saying it’s easy out there. I’m not saying we’re out of the economic woods yet.

And I’m certainly not saying you can all sit back and expect to do business as usual or like “in the good old days”. On the contrary; it takes a lot more hard work, determination, foresight, investment and simply much more effort to even just survive these days. But at the same time, there are great examples of indies who do exactly that. If you’re one of them, well, surely that deserves highlighting and a pat on the proverbial back. And if you’re not one them, well, take encouragement from the fact that it can be done and look to the best of them for inspiration.

Isabella Griffiths, editor

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NEWS —

RETAILERS FLY THE FLAG FOR INDIE EASTER Following the launch of Independent Retailer Month and Indie Christmas last year, the Support for Independent Retail campaign continues into 2013 with the launch of Indie Easter. Aiming to reinvigorate the independent sector as the soul of the high street, the campaign targets independent stores in all areas of retail to join forces in their respective communities.

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Following the launch of inaugural event Independent Retailer Month last July, independent retailers have started to take matters into their own hands when it comes to keeping their sector alive.

Christmas 2012 saw 50 UK towns getting involved with Indie Christmas, coming together within their communities to drive footfall to independent stores over the festive season. Now, over 100 UK towns and cities are preparing to take part in Indie Easter, the nationwide campaign to drive footfall towards independents between 23 March and 14 April. Encompassing the vast majority of the UK school holiday period, the consumer-facing campaign aims to encourage families into areas and shops that they perhaps have not previously visited, opening up public consciousness of the smaller, independent stores that are alive and kicking.

Spearheaded by advocate of independent retail Clare Rayner, the campaign suggests that retailers join forces to offer activities such as an Easter Egg hunt, which sees consumers collect an egg sticker from each qualifying independent retailer they visit. The reward for collecting the required number of eggs is a chocolate Easter Egg, whereas the reward for increasing footfall into independent stores can be felt throughout the entire community.

Research published by the Federation of Small Businesses states that for every £1 spent locally, between 50p and 70p circulates back into the local economy. For that same £1 spent online or out of town, only 5p would make its way back into the local economy.

For Rayner, any local activities such as an Easter Egg hunt are merely initial steps towards the ultimate aim of raising awareness of the eclecticism of the UK independent sector.

“Consumers have fallen out of love with the UK’s high streets, and retailers need to give them a good reason to come back,” says Rayner.

“Step one is to create a good reason – that’s where the campaign activities come in. Step two is for the businesses themselves to showcase what the consumers have been missing out on.

The Indie Easter Egg hunts, if well implemented, can deliver exactly that.”

Among the womenswear indies who are taking part in Indie Easter is Jen Garrity, owner of Coco Marie in Amersham, Buckinghamshire, who is hoping to build on the success of previous indie events held last year. “As Indie Christmas was such a fabulous campaign that brought lots of new customers into Old Amersham, we are hoping the same will happen with Indie Easter. There are a large number of independent retailers in Old

“Consumers have fallen out of love with the UK’s high streets, and retailers need to give them a good reason to come back.

That’s where the campaign activities come in”

Amersham across the fashion, art, home and deli sectors of retail and we try to help one another out. We have to rely on the fact that customers are looking for something individual to compete with the chain stores in the area.”

This is mirrored by Richard Bell, owner of Bell Clothing, which has three stores in Cumbria. “You only need to look at stores such as Hollister to see that retail drama is the only way to keep bricks-and-mortar retail alive,” he says.

“Shopping has to be an enhanced experience if we want to continue to attract customers into our stores, and campaigns such as Indie Easter are a good way to promote the areas within which we trade as a destination for retail.”

07 WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk — MARCH 2013

NEWS —

ICONIX BRAND GROUP ACQUIRES LEE COOPER UK denim brand Lee Cooper has been acquired

by Iconix Brand Group for $72m, joining the company’s diverse portfolio of fashion and lifestyle brands including Badgley Mischka, Rocawear, Ecko, Material Girl, Ed Hardy and Umbro.

Lee Cooper was founded in 1908 and in its over 100-year history has grown into an international label, with currently 40 partners selling in over 100 countries, predominantly in Europe, Asia and the Middle East, with over 500 Lee Cooper branded stores. The brand is aimed at the 18-25 year age demographic and is expected to achieve in excess of $700m in annual global retail sales by 2015.

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STRONG TRADING AT MODA EXHIBITION Exhibitors at national fashion trade show Moda, which took place last month, have reported positive results, with healthy order volumes and new business having boosted trading. An impressive quality of independents and store buyers was also cited.

Labels reporting a strong show include Dutch brand Creenstone, which revealed its collection at Moda for the second time. Robert du Mosch, international sales director of Creenstone, says, “We had a strong show once again, particularly on the Sunday – we had to get extra help on the stand. The timing of the event on the season’s calendar is good, as people are serious buyers and are ready to put down orders.”

Adele Black, co-owner of Latte, reiterated the positive assessment: “We had the best Moda ever and were significantly up on last a/w. We opened a huge amount of new orders and didn’t stop for the whole three days.” The next edition of Moda will take place on 11-13 August at the NEC in Birmingham.

The three-day event hosted 1,450 brands across womenswear, menswear, footwear, accessories, lingerie and swimwear, and welcomed a wealth of new labels to its line-up such as contemporary brands Masai, Two Danes, Deserious, Vex Collection and Amari.

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CONDÉ NAST INVESTS IN FARFETCH Condé Nast International has led a $20m investment in Farfetch, the e-commerce marketplace for independent fashion boutiques.

Existing investors Advent Venture Partners, Index Ventures and e.ventures also participated in the fundraising. “Farfetch has a unique position, connecting boutiques around the world by e-commerce to sophisticated fashion customers such as our magazine readers and website users,” says Jonathan Newhouse, chairman and chief executive. José Neves, founder and chief executive of Farfetch, says, “This investment will fuel our entry to new markets while assisting our growth in existing ones. Our goal to build a unique curated global franchise in online designer fashion is brought closer through the involvement of Condé Nast.”

— TOP FASHION NAMES SIGN UP TO APPRENTICESHIP SCHEME A host of new employers have signed up for the new Higher Level Apprenticeship in Fashion & Textiles scheme, run by Creative Skillset, including New Look, fashion designer Jonathan Saunders and John Cotton Home Textiles, who have all appointed new apprentices. The level 4 apprenticeship, launched last month and equivalent to the first year of university, is aimed at young people with GCSEs and A Levels who have decided they want to learn and earn on the job.

— ONLINE SALES SET FOR FURTHER GROWTH Retail research agency Conlumino predicts that the UK’s £44bn fashion market will grow a further 3.4 per cent this year, with 11 per cent of sales being derived from the online channel by the end of 2013 compared with eight per cent at present. Digital marketing agency Greenlight, meanwhile, reports that queries for fashion-related products on Google UK have grown from 2.5 million in October last year to 2.8 million last month.

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08 WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk — MARCH 2013

NEWS —

SCOOP INTERNATIONAL EXPANDS WITH ADDITIONAL VENUE The fifth edition of boutique trade show Scoop International, which took place on 10-12 February at London’s Saatchi Gallery, attracted record visitor numbers, with footfall up by 26 per cent on its February 2012 edition.

The event also showcased an extra 20 per cent in exhibitor numbers, with over 250 UK and international premium, directional and contemporary labels across womenswear, footwear, accessories and jewellery having taken part in the event.

Due to the high demand of interest from exhibitors to show at Scoop International, the sixth edition will be expanded further with the addition of the Phillips Gallery in Howick Place, which is in close proximity to the Saatchi Gallery. The move will enable the show to almost double its exhibitors to over 400 handpicked designer collections. A complimentary car service between the two venues will be running throughout the three days. The next edition of Scoop will be held on 21-23 July.

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HARVEY NICHOLS HOSTS MORE RETAIL CONCESSIONS Luxury department store Harvey Nichols has added two new concessions to its portfolio with the launch of retail spaces by US label Halston Heritage and Italian brand Amen, which both opened last month.

Halston Heritage

Amen

Halston’s custom designed 450 sq ft space reflects the new direction of the brand and showcases a large selection of its ready-to-wear and evening collections. The concession is the first own retail unit in Europe for the label.

Simultaneously, Amen also opened its first concession at Harvey Nichols, taking up a space of 350 sq ft and located on the second floor of the department store. The bespoke area sells a selection of exclusive items from Amen’s women’s ready-to-wear and couture line.

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MOST SMALL BUSINESSES FEEL UK TAX SYSTEM IS WORSE As the coalition government reaches the mid-point of its five years in office, a poll carried out by not-for-profit business support group FPB has found that most small UK businesses feel the current government has made the UK tax system worse. Top of the list of gripes with the new system is the rising level of business rates, with an overwhelming 94 per cent of respondents to the survey reporting that rates are now too high. “It’s probably fair to say that business rates are the most despised of all commercial taxes by today’s small business owner in the UK,” says the Forum’s chief executive Phil Orford.

“It’s a crippling tax that business owners simply have no choice but to pay and, for many who claim to see no discernible benefit to having paid up, it clearly sticks in their craw.” A quarter of business owners also felt the tax system had become more complex, while 26 per cent said that the system was less efficient under the government.

— TOD’S APPOINTS CREATIVE DIRECTOR Italian brand Tod’s has announced the appointment of Alessandra Facchinetti as the creative director of its womenswear collections, commencing March 2013.

The first collection under Facchinetti’s leadership will be presented at Milan Fashion Week in September 2013. In 2000, Facchinetti joined the Gucci group as design director of its women’s ready-to-wear collection before joining Maison Valentino in 2008.

— REPUBLIC SAVED BY SPORTS DIRECT Sports Direct has acquired fashion retailer Republic, saving 2,100 jobs and keeping 114 stores open. The sports giant, founded by Newcastle United owner Mike Ashley, bought the company for an undisclosed sum, and the deal comes two weeks after the fashion retailer entered administration. Sports Direct also acquired stock, the brand’s SoulCal, Fabric and Crafted labels, as well as the Republic head office in Leeds.

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09 WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk — MARCH 2013

NEWS —

TOWN CENTRES UNDER THREAT AS INDIES SHOW NEGATIVE GROWTH

ONLINE FASHION MARKETPLACE THE COUNTER LAUNCHES

For the first time since the second half of 2010, more independent shops closed during the second half of 2012 than opened, putting town centres across the UK under renewed threat.

A curated online marketplace for high-end fashion boutiques is launching this month, offering indies a platform to showcase and sell their products via the site, www.the-counter.com.

The latest report by The Local Data Company on the openings and closures of all retail and leisure outlets in the top 500 town centres shows that 7,743 independents closed in comparison to 7,704 who opened a new store, a decline of 0.03 per cent.

While independents continue the trend of opening three times more stores (15,932) than chain stores (5,558), the marginal decrease indicates a worrying development and is the first decline since positive growth throughout 2011 and the first half of 2012, with high street vacancy rates expected to rise further throughout 2013. The net change (openings less closures) for the full year was only just positive, with independent-occupied units having grown by 594 stores versus an increase of 2,564 in 2011.

Key areas of decline are clothing stores, newsagents, recruitment agencies, florists, bookshops and Chinese restaurants, while growth came from charity shops, bakers, health, beauty and nail salons, hairdressers, tattooing and piercing outlets as well as delicatessens.

Overall, independents account for 69 per cent of all retail and leisure units in Great Britain.

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The website is initially launching with 20 women’s and menswear independents on board with a view of recruiting up to 80 boutiques.

According to founder Matthew Blanchard, The Counter will offer an expanded fashion audience than individual boutiques would have access to themselves. The Counter will look after product photography, marketing and e-commerce system integration, while product fulfillment and postage is carried out by the boutiques themselves.

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ONLINE STORE FOR EMERGING DESIGNERS LAUNCHES A new online retail platform hosting emerging designers and smaller niche labels launched in the UK last month.

The site, www.uniquinu.com, brings together a collective of up-and-coming independent womenswear and accessories designers from across the globe who have been selected for their creativity, but also for their accessible price points, with jewellery pieces starting at £9 retail and clothing at £29.

In addition, the site will also function as an interactive space, where visitors can discuss styling tips, trends and suggest new designers.

Users are also invited to create their own avatar and style it with all of their favourite pieces from the site, to be followed and rated by others.

Furthermore, users are offered ongoing shopping rewards, including five per cent credit on future purchases and two per cent cashback from purchases made by friends who have enrolled into the community.

Uniquinu was founded in Spain and is launching with a total of 17 brands including Mentirosa, Sick Watona and Gaats.

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UK RETAIL SALES GROW AT FASTEST RATE IN YEARS February saw like-for-like retail sales increase by 2.7 per cent on the previous year – the fastest sales growth in years – the British Retail Consortium (BRC) reveals. This is the fastest rate of like-for-like sales since December 2009, with the growth allowing retailers space to breathe after it was thought the country could potentially hit a triple-dip recession. “After the disappointing figures that brought 2012 to a close, it’s reassuring that the sales momentum established during an encouraging January has built, not faded,” says Helen Dickinson, director general, BRC. “There are certainly welcome signs of gradual improvement and customers feeling more positive.”

— VERO MODA TRANSFORMS ITS VERY BRAND Vero Moda’s more upmarket brand Very has been relaunched as YAS for a/w 13. The change comes as the label is looking to achieve a stronger and clearer brand positioning, with plans to extend the range further with upgraded fabrics and more fashion-forward designs. YAS will feature eight collections per year, with additional express collections also available.

— JOHN LEWIS INVESTS £32M IN REFURB Department store retailer John Lewis is investing £32m into an extensive refurbishment programme across four of its stores.

The flagship store on Oxford Street, along with High Wycombe, Kingston and Nottingham, will benefit from the fund later this year. A further £25m has been planned for other smaller investments across the chain’s 39 stores before 2014. The biggest investment will be on the retailer’s High Wycombe property with a £16m redevelopment fund in place.

The plans include converting its 35,000 sq ft office space into a selling area and the introduction of a full fashion, nursery and childrenswear offer.

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10 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH 2013

PEOPLE —

BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear —

WORKERS RIGHTS TAKE CENTRE STAGE AT LFW

FANTASY FASHION PROVES A HIT COURTNEY BLADES, THIRD YEAR BA FASHION STUDENT AT THE UNIVERSITY OF DERBY, REACHED THE FINALS OF THE UK’S LARGEST STUDENT-RUN CHARITY EVENT, THE ST ANDREWS CHARITY FASHION SHOW, PRESENTING HER DESIGNS AT THE PRESTIGIOUS SCOTTISH UNIVERSITY. HER FANTASY FAIRY-TALE DRESS WAS AMONG THE DESIGNS OF FIVE OTHER FINALISTS FROM ACROSS THE UK WHO TOOK PART IN THE SHOW, WHICH HAS RAISED MORE THAN £300,000 IN ITS 21-YEAR HISTORY. —

SPOTLIGHT — Luxury fabric supplier Hainsworth textile mill is waving goodbye to its longest standing employee, Dennis Allman, who is retiring after a whopping 63 years in service.

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Wolf & Badger recently held its third annual graduate design awards to find the best newcomer in fashion, jewellery and accessories. The winners, including womenswear designer Katie Darlington, will be able to sell their collections in-store for a period of three months.

Valentine’s spectacular

Two global union federations put a different slant on London Fashion Week’s proceedings, challenging event sponsor and logistics giant Deutsche Post DHL over alleged abuse of employees’ rights. Two models dressed in high-fashion clothes crafted from packing materials paraded outside the main entrance of Somerset House to raise awareness for their cause.

The ITF (International Transport Workers’ Federation) and UNI Global Union, the organisers of the initiative, fight for workers’ rights worldwide.

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MP VISITS JACKSON DISTRIBUTION

Poole fashion business Jackson Distribution recently welcomed local MP Robert Syms and Elaine Atkinson, leader of the local council, to its 30,000 sq ft headquarters in the Dorset town. The politicians had a tour of the premises, as well as an insight into the company’s two labels, Braekeburn and Iron Fist, proving their commitment to local business. “I congratulate Jackson Distribution and other Poole businesses that create quality jobs and take opportunities to invest and expand their brands globally at the same time as keeping their HQ in Poole,” says Syms.

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Accessories brand Jack French hosted a Valentine’s spectacle at London’s St Pancras International. The designer, Jack French, welcomed fashion press and celebrity friends including Kate Moss, Beverly Knight, Meg Matthews and Jo Wood, who witnessed the unveiling of the label’s limited-edition St Pancras clutch bag at the Meeting Place Statue (pictured above) in the station. A pop-up store, located a few metres away at the Grand Terrace, was also launched, selling the brand’s collection for a month.

— Owner Nick Jackson with MP Robert Syms

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                 

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OPINION —

TALKING POINT Key industry players give their views on the issues affecting womenswear —

SURVIVAL OF THE FITTEST IS ALSO TRUE IN RETAIL

THE BUSINESS RATES CHANGE THAT BENEFITS LOCAL ECONOMIES

Feva has been going for 10 years, with the last one by far the most challenging. And it all seemed so easy back in 2003. “In the struggle for survival, the fittest win out at the expense of their rivals because they succeed in adapting themselves best to their environment,” Darwin famously said. With this in mind, after 10 years in the business, I looked for the 10 things I was now going to try to do better or differently.

As the owner of an indie in the market town of Keswick, I am well aware of the negative impact that the large chains have on the local economy.

1. Better buying deals. Why should I be the only one to lose margin? I want more support from agents and manufacturers: discounts, free stock, promotional support and better credit terms, I don’t care which.

2. Less emphasis on seasonality. A changing climate and customers fleeing our rubbish weather makes a nonsense of the traditional s/s and a/w split. Some suppliers have addressed it with three, even four, drops, but not enough. And we now offer “out of season stock” all year round.

3. Sharper marketing. More digital, more social media and better use of our database to target our marketing.

4. Slicker online shop. Obviously, we can’t be an Asos or a My-Wardrobe, but we can match 60-70 per cent of their functionality for an acceptable cost, plus we have our very different brands.

5. Make excellent staff even better. We pride ourselves on our staff, and this was the highest scoring area in a customer survey we ran last year.

But, this year, I’m going to invest in staff sales and product training.

6. Listen more to our customers. Our customer survey told us many things we knew and didn’t, so we are making changes and introducing new services in response, including in-store styling packages.

7. Engage more with them. We get customers involved, showing them pictures of new ranges and letting them add their own pieces. We’ve even had them along when agents visit. It has a fantastic effect on loyalty.

8. Make it more social. We take customers to the races, have restaurant nights and run style evenings in the shop every two months or so. This really pays off and we are going to do more of it.

9. Stop being a slave to sales. I loathe sales and the pressure the high street puts on us to follow their lead. I’m going to take a brave pill this year and paddle my own canoe: less discounted product in fewer, shorter sales.

10. Outstanding customer service. This is our best trump card against the high street. We’re going to keep searching out what adds up to deliver the service that characterises us independents and it will continue to be the most important factor in our survival and prosperity.

Time will tell where we figure on Darwin’s fitness scale!

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Rather than sit back, I decided to write to my MP and Vince Cable (as Secretary of State for Business, Innovation and Skills and President of the Board of Trade) about a proposal to change business rates so that the government receives the same amount of money overall but the proportion paid depends on the number of retail units you own. My proposal is simple: the more retail units you have, the higher your business rates multiplier, so the larger multiples will be “subsidising” the smaller independent businesses.

Vibrant town centres attract the multiples, which in turn push up rents and business rates, distort the mix of shops in the area and never contribute back to the local area, or worse still, close the shop and leave an empty unit. I do not propose to change how the business rates’ money is spent, or collected, just the amount paid by a business being dependent on whether it is their first unit or their 101st, so that the business rates collected overall remains the same, but in a way that favours local economies rather than benefits the few.

The more units you have, the higher the rates – this way, the government will collect the same annual amount and the “big boys” pay proportionately more. For example, I have one shop, so in my proposal I’d pay 0.25 of my rateable value (compared to my existing 0.46). If I opened a second shop, I’d pay 0.30. Should I open a third, I’d pay 0.4, and so on. After all, you wouldn’t open additional shops unless the first was successful. There should be an increasing scale so that by the time you have 50 retail units your multiplier is 1.0 and could increase further (I am not a statistician so appreciate the Treasury would need to do the number crunching). Sadly, the small business rates relief does not seem to have kept pace with rising rateable values, especially since the UK’s business rates are three times higher than those of our European counterparts.

I had never written to an MP before and so posted my letter enthusiastically at the start of the year, but have only received a formulaic response from Vince Cable’s office, and I haven’t received anything from my MP. The only response I have had is from the Federation of Small Businesses, who thanked me for my suggestion and said their local government policy is looking into ideas for positive changes to the present system. Let’s hope someone somewhere down the line will spring into action, for the benefit of us all.

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Jan Clift, owner, Feva, Cheltenham

Alexandra Boardman, owner, Alexandra’s of Keswick

14 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH 2013

INTERVIEW —

Q&A

Chie Mihara The founder and designer of the eponymous label tells Isabella Griffiths what makes her tick and the secret to the global success of her quirky designs.

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15 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH 2013

Isabella Griffiths: What inspired you to become a footwear designer?

Chie Mihara: I was always interested in design.

I did fashion design in Japan and later footwear design in New York. What led me to shoes was when I was doing sculpture in New York and I missed fashion. Like most designers, I always wanted to have my own label and was just working and preparing myself for the right moment. When I was living in New York I met one of the owners of Charles Jourdan, who suggested I go to Elda in Spain. And that’s what did it! I met my husband there, who was working for one of the factories that were making for Charles Jourdana nd i now live and produce my shoes there. My husband’s family are old-school shoemakers, so the decision to launch my label was a natural step for the both of us. And the rest, as they say, is history.

IG: How would you describe the DNA of Chie Mihara?

CH: I think it boils down to comfort and design.

You don’t have to suffer to be beautiful. I worked in an orthopaedic shoe store in New York and learned the importance of a good shoe. Not only quality wise, like using genuine leather, but also respecting the anatomy of the foot. A good design feeds the soul and makes us happier. Both things have to go together.

IG: The collection seems very inspired by vintage influences. Is this a reflection of your personal style, or where does this signature stem from?

CH: My personal style is more masculine and clean - I don’t wear any flower ornament shoes nor a Mary Jane. But, when I design, I like to have no boundaries and don’t look at any type of woman that could limit me. I have fun creating my own world. But I guess when it comes to a typical style in terms of the label, the short and round toes and a vintage look do describe the direction. I am inspired by many things, especially certain decades in history such as the 30s, 40s, 60s and 80s.

INTERVIEW —

“A LOT OF BRANDS HAVE TAKEN AWAY QUALITY TO FIND BETTER PRICE, AND ALSO TAKEN AWAY FUN AND CREATIVITY FROM THE DESIGN TO MAKE AN EASIER SALE, BUT THAT'S TAKING AWAY THE INTEGRITY OF THE BRAND, TOO”

IG: You have been running the label for just over 10 years – what have been the milestones?

CM: Each season is a milestone. Keeping the creative hunger inside is a big challenge. When I first started, I thought my product could reach 60,000 pairs a year, but I was wrong, we are now up to around 160,000 pairs a year.

IG: You have a strong global distribution – what is the sales situation in the UK? CM: We have an excellent distribution in the UK; we are in major department stores such as Selfridges, Liberty and Harvey Nichols, as well as many prestigious boutiques around the country including Collen & Clare, Spice Shoes, Bernards of Esher and Boudoir Femme. British women understand my quirky, colourful and romantic style. But, of course, we still want to grow, which is why we are exhibiting at shows, such as Scoop International last month, which was really successful for us and such a beautiful environment.

IG: Who is the customer you design for?

CM: I don’t have any type of person in mind.

But I can say of my customers that they are true to themselves. They are searchers and not at all fashion victims. When they find happiness in my shoes, they write me beautiful letters or share the pictures of their shoes. It’s a great exchange. Saying that, I would love to see the likes of Audrey Tautou, Juliette Binoche and Isabella Rossellini wear my shoes – they are such inspiring and strong women.

IG: Has the economic climate affected your sales or growth in any way?

CM: Price matters and the economic situation is affecting all of us. But a designer has to keep dreaming and not look at numbers. And I’m very disciplined in that way. A lot of brands have taken away quality to find better price, and also taken away fun and creativity from the design to make an easier sale, but that’s taking away the integrity of the brand, too.

IG: What are your plans for the range?

CM: We have to get through this year in the best way possible. We are under no illusion that 2013 will be any easier than the previous couple of years, but at the same time, we have to stay optimistic and proactive. For instance, we work closely with customers and respond fast to their needs – if a style isn’t performing well, we try to replace it immediately with other styles. We are in the same boat, so we try to collaborate as much as we can to help sales.

IG: You run the business from Elda in Spain, where your head office and factories are located. How would you describe your company ethics?

CM: A good factory is as important as any other area of this business. I know I’m privileged to have one. Almost 100 per cent of the production is conducted in my own factories. Being based in the same town makes it easier and faster to control quality and solve any problem quite fast.

My team and I are like a family. On the door of each section there is a sign saying “Put quality in your work, it’s your future!” They respect and enjoy making shoes for us.

IG: What can we expect from your a/w 13 collection?

CM: This season, my inspiration was taken from the 30s and 40s; the times of social and economical difficulties. But the beauty of inner strength and appreciation of simple things made a more fulfilling life. It’s all about lasting, timeless shapes, featuring small platforms and rubber soles with welting to look tougher and also for comfort. Heels include block heels and are all well-built and sturdy, while styles include lace-ups, Mary Janes, high-vamped moccasins, many with big bows or flower ornaments. I’ve kept the colour scheme to grape, dark greens and deep navy, but have incorporated bright colours such as turquoise, orange and moss green. There are also leather options, from snake embossed through plain calf to suede, napa and metallic leather. In each collection, there are around 130-150 styles, so there is plenty to choose from once again.

INFORMATION – Chie Mihara was born in Brazil to Japanese parents – She studied fashion in Japan and accessories design at F.I.T. in New York – The label was launched 12 years ago by Mihara and her husband, who owns a shoe component factory – The brand is now widely distributed across all major markets – Mihara defines her creations as naïve, nostalgic, feminine but at the same time strong and urban – The label is stocked in some of the best global department stores as well as independents, with stockists in the UK including Collen & Clare, Spice Shoes, Bernards of Esher and Boudoir Femme

16 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH 2013

FASHION —

STYLE FILE This month’s product news —

▲ SISTER ACT Almari is the sister label of successful womenswear brand Closet, but since its launch in April 2012 has been making its own name on the fashion scene. The London brand, which is also produced in the capital, has a signature look of structured workwear that translates easily into evening, with pretty frocks with a nod to catwalk trends key.

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▲

NEW KID ON THE BLOCK

STYLE FLASH — Manchester brand Pretty Disturbia has opened its new boutique in the city’s Affleck Palace, where the label’s full range of clothing and accessories will be available.

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▲ BIRD OF PREY Prey of London is the brainchild of designer Donovan Pascal and marketing creative Hannah Man, who have years of experience at labels Religion and Idol under their belt.

The brand’s signature style pays homage to the decadent late-night London girl, with heaps of vintage rock attitude.

— STYLE FLASH

In its second season in the UK, Missco Girl is a fun and trend-inspired handbag label, offering fashion arm candy and holdalls. Colour-block satchels, textured totes and clutches are among the key pieces for s/s 13.

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— British heritage lingerie brand Lucile has seen an unexpected rise in sales after it was mentioned in ITV series Mr Selfridge.

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New contemporary Brit label Oshun has launched for s/s 13, with exclusive styles going into Anthropologie in May, before the label’s roll-out to more boutiques across the country. Vibrant prints and clean shapes characterise the label, which retails between £50 and £450. The brand is currently taking orders on its a/w 13 range.

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UK label Moloh is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, but remains true to its distinctly British roots. Its 45-piece birthday collection features intricate designs produced from pure wool, silk, velvet, suede and leather.

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Skin care for leather When Jovanka Novkovic Davies’ favourite Bottega Veneta bag was almost ruined by an Italian outpour, it inspired the idea behind Leather Love – a luxury care and cleaning range for handbags, shoes or leather accessories. The brand is a collaboration between Davies, her brand designer husband Michael and entrepreneur Shariffa Nisa Rashid, and has been taking the market by storm.

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19 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH 2013

STOCK UPDATE —

THE 10 BEST

COBALT COBAL ALT BLUE 02

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SPOTLIGHT — Softly tailored trousers, smart blazers and form-fitting dresses are the ideal settings for cobalt this season, taking the wearer from day to evening with ease.

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SPOTLIGHT — Cobalt blue was a popular shade on the catwalks this season, alongside emerald.

Pair together in-store for an instant bolt of colour or layer over summer whites for the perfect holiday dressing.

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Spring’s most talked about shade gets the once over from WWB as we select our 10 best pieces available now from short order.

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01 Part Two, £74.95, 020 8875 5801 02 Twist & Tango, £14, 07930 539700 03 Ronen Chen, £52, 020 7402 5292 04 Bernshaw, £99, 020 7612 0100 05 Esamis, £49, 07891 797656

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06 Bourne, £62.50, 01482 334590 07 Olsen, £56.78, 020 7290 0890 08 Not The Same, price on request, 0031 611396295 09 Oui, £44.07, 0049 8935481150 10 Ali Ro, £165, 020 7633 9888

Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale

General Enquiries 01392 876390 | Customer Service 0800 294 3373 | Official sponsor of JosephRibkoff.com

21 WOmenSWear buyer — marcH 2013

In SeaSOn —

MAKE A STATEMENT On the s/s 13 catwalks, big name designers such as Dolce & Gabbana, Versace and Gucci ensured the trend for large statement jewellery will be around for some time to come. Follow in their footsteps with WWB’s selection of on-trend and in-season styles.

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SPOTLIGHT — Look to discs and tassels to accentuate longer lengths this season, while more delicate designs rely on semi-precious gemstones.

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SPOTLIGHT — Making the perfect day-to-evening statement, cut-out filigree earrings are high up on our radar this spring, particularly in gold, bronze and warm rose-gold.

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-01- Ruby Rocks Accessories, £3, 07973 718301 -02- Orelia, £8, 01273 434779 -03- Daisy London, retail price £125, 020 3214 3175 -04- Rodgers & Rodgers, £150, 01246 555 228 -05- Dannijo, retail price £280, 0016 467558909 Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale For more in-season trends check out our online galleries at wwb-online.co.uk

22 WOmenSWear buyer — marcH 2013

faSHIOn —

FASHION RADAR acquaverde

THu THu

French label Acquaverde arrives in the UK this summer, hoping to secure a cult following among denim devotees.

Taking inspiration from contemporary art, Thu Thu has all the credentials to become the next big thing on the fashion scene.

Established: First established at the end of the 80s and revived in 2010.

Established: 2010

Signature style: Acquaverde recognises that jeans are an essential wardrobe foundation for most women and as a result delivers on-trend, well-made designs.

Signature style: The recurring use of embroidered patchwork fabric from Sapa, Vietnam, sets the Thu Thu brand apart from its contemporaries.

French denim label Acquaverde was first established in the late 80s, revived in late 2010 by designer Judith Roche, and is now crossing the Channel to make its mark in the UK for 2013.

Combining her expertise in denim fabrics with an eye for design, Roche develops pieces for Acquaverde that are both functional yet stylish, with the end goal being an easy, mix-and-match wardrobe.

Buyers coming to Acquaverde with fresh eyes can expect to find all the hallmarks of a good denim brand: a range of styles from skinny through to flared, providing a multitude of options for different body shapes, each with hidden design details waiting to be discovered. Drawing inspiration from travel, architecture and vintage styles, key looks this season include the Scarlett slim-fit 7/8 style, followed closely by the longer version, Alice, and Evans, a high-waisted look with four zippers.

For a/w 13 and beyond, Roche is developing a more complete line, from knitwear to leather garments. Wholesale prices range from ¤40 to ¤150.

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Born in Vietnam before moving to East Germany, Thu Thu founder and designer Thuy Duong Nguyen takes inspiration from Vietnamese textiles to create a new urban aesthetic, one that explores rural, handcrafted fabrics alongside contemporary cuts.

Each season, Nguyen works on developing new signature prints exclusive to her collections, and the s/s 13 line is no different, taking particular inspiration from German painter Gerhard Richter, who uses items such as spatulas and chopsticks to make patterns: abstract and otherwise. Though looking to current artists for inspiration, Thu Thu’s brand signature is maintained with the use of traditional embroidered patchwork fabric from Sapa, Vietnam. Produced using natural dyes to create intricate geometric embroideries, this key fabric sits alongside silks, cotton and suede leather.

Familiar shapes also remain for the season, such as ever-popular biker and bomber jackets, alongside gilets, blouses and statement dresses. Wholesale prices range from £76 to £270.

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26 WOmenSWear buyer — marcH 2013

PrOfILe —

LOVE STORY Love From Australia is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, paying testament to the huge and lasting success of sheepskin boots. However, the brand is far from a one-trick pony, and for a/w 13 is diversifying its range significantly while staying true to its sheepskin roots. Isabella Griffiths quizzed founder Tara Knapp about the brand’s quirky DNA and the key milestones so far.

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W

hen Ugg boots first burst onto the fashion scene, it wasn’t just cynics who thought they would never be more than a fad. Fast forward to 2013, and sheepskin boots are not only still going strong, but have become an indispensable wardrobe staple for most women.

One of the first brands to capitalise on the growing trend was Love From Australia (LFA), which carved its niche at the premium end of the market with luxury versions and quirky design details that made it stand out from the rest of branded and unbranded styles that soon flooded the market. This year, LFA is proudly celebrating its 10th anniversary, something founder and former business consultant Tara Knapp – who says she was just “in the right place at the right time” when the consumer love affair with sheepskin boots started – can hardly believe herself. “At the time, I had just finished a three-year contract in Luxemburg and was heading home to the UK for a career break, expecting my second baby,” she says. “After around a week, I was bored at home and started looking for something I could do to keep myself busy.

“The original concept was an import and wholesale company for Australian labels,” Knapp continues. “It was the time of Sass & Bide, Tsubi, Karma and Antipodium, and the ‘Ugg’ pot was just starting to simmer. “I got a box sent over to review the styles and showed them to a good friend who owns a small chain of independent designer stores. She tried to buy the box off me on the spot. That was the first clue that we were onto something good.”

Although it was September already, Knapp managed to secure orders with 10 prestigious boutiques and Kurt Geiger, which consequently opened the doors to Harrods, Selfridges and Liberty that winter. Accounts in some of the best indies ensued, and at the peak of the sheepskin boom, LFA was stocked in 250 doors in the UK alone. Although today the market has stabilised, as Knapp concedes, the brand still serves around 150 accounts – a healthy figure for what is essentially a small indie label.

“Many of these stockists have been with us for all of our 10 years, and that’s an achievement in itself,” she says.

Connoisseurs and fans of sheepskin boots can tell an LFA style from miles away, so distinct has its signature become. “We feminised the sheepskin boot,” says Knapp. “We made the foot slimmer and the cut more shapely.

And we added coloured ribbons, swishing tassels, luxe faux fur trims and lurex knitted cuffs, glittering crystal buttons and shiny metal studs and zips – our LFA twist. And our customers can choose from the classic flat or, for extra height, our lightweight wedge, too.”

It’s no surprise that such design detail has attracted a lot of copycats, but unlike some other big brands in this field, Knapp has a refreshingly relaxed attitude to counterfeiting. “I’m known for my nonchalance about copying,” she says. “I just think, isn’t it the highest form of flattery? There will always be a market for cheaper versions of designer products; that is the nature of the beast and, with a phenomenon as big as this, it is pretty inevitable there will be a host of copiers.

“Mostly, they are synthetic sheepskin, cheaply made and with a

27 WOmenSWear buyer — marcH 2013

PrOfILe —

Tara Knapp

“I’m known for my nonchalance about copying. I just think, isn’t it the highest form of flattery? We just move on and create something new. Catch up with us if you can, I say” price point to reflect it,” Knapp continues. “More annoying are the other ‘designer’ brands that copy LFA styles – hardly designer unless you design something? But, even then, it ensures we keep moving on and work harder to be ahead of the game. No lawsuits for us. Battles breed negative energy. We just move on and create something new. Catch up with us if you can, I say,” she laughs.

Knapp may be laid-back about the competition, but she’s by no means complacent, and it’s not just the obvious fellow sheepskin brands that vie for the same slice of the retail cake, but other, less apparent ones, too. “All the sheepskin brands are competitors – Ugg, Emu, Celtic, Australia Luxe and Mou, to name just a few players,” says Knapp. “The tough economic climate has weeded out all but the fittest, and the survivors are great in their own way and have distinctive signatures.

“There is room for choice, and I believe competition is both positive and necessary to keep us on our toes and the collections fresh and original,” she continues. “But we also compete for budget with other, non-sheepskin boot brands such as Ash, who are stocked by many of our retailers. We take this seriously, because they make it painless for retailers to add one or two sheepskin lined boots to their order without having to work separately with a more traditional sheepskin boot brand like us.”

True to her ethos of constantly evolving, a/w 13 sees LFA diversify its offer significantly with the introduction of a range of sheepskin-lined ballet pumps and elegant heeled boots, plus a customisable capsule range, MyLFA, offering customers the possibility to choose their own trims and

colours on a selection of basic styles. “We are 10 this year,” says Knapp. “Ten years of sheepskin boots, so we wanted to explore new product ranges and widen the appeal to more customers. I don’t think sheepskin boots will go away, but the reality is they are a staple now and not a super-hot trend.

Adding ballet pumps and heeled boots is about diversifying and offering our customers a broader product range and encouraging them to wear LFA in other circumstances, too.”

Knapp’s sheer endless energy is infectious, and nothing short of inspirational considering she is not only in the driving seat of her own label, but also a mother of five. And while she says her children keep her happy and grounded, she clearly thrives on the label, too, which she runs together with her two sisters, Emma and Kate. “We are a family brand, run by three sisters,” says Knapp. “I’m the eldest, but by no means the wisest or prettiest! We have some great women in the crew – everyone else involved with the brand is female apart from the accountant. We make boots for women from women and I think that shows in our styles. We entice women to fall in love with our brand and we work hard to keep them.”

Did she ever think LFA would get this far? “Not for a second – many brands have gone bust or sensibly moved on to something else,” Knapp admits and adds jokingly, “We are neither planning to go bust or likely to do anything as sensible as move on – unless anyone reading would like to write a large cheque?”

28 WOmenSWear buyer — marcH 2013

mOda fOOTWear —

SOLE SISTERS Your essential edit of the autumn/winter 2013 trends direct from February’s edition of Moda Footwear.

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Photographs: Kevin Peschke www.kevinpeschke.com Styling: Natalie Dawson Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale

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YEE HA! Cowboy boots were one of the hottest trends spotted at Moda Footwear this season, with a number of big name brands putting their own spin on a classic design. Looking particularly strong for a/w 13 were distressed leather and suede styles with added details such as fringing, floral embroidery, snakeskin panels and studs and sequins.

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durango, £82.50, 01740 753 9100 maria mare, €20.90, 07870 175149 mJuS, £55, 07935 648070 Sixtyseven, €41, 07870 175149 bronx, £41.70, 0114 281 5111 mTnG, €23.90, 07870 175149

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BOW SELECTOR Ladylike bows adorn this season’s pumps, with pointed toe courts providing the perfect finishing touch to smart, tailored trends, looking polished and professional and elongating the leg as they go. Many brands chose to stay true to a traditionally wintery palette for a/w 13, while red and rust tones will provide a welcome lift for autumn.

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Glamour n Glitz Shoes, £11.95, 01282 773891 fiona mcGuiness, £32.79, 07919 023547 unze London, £9.99, 0333 1238693 Sachelle couture, £50, 01536 310447 ravel, £22, 01706 212512 Peter Kaiser Schuhfabrik, £47.20, 0049 63317160

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TWINKLE TOES Ballet flats received an update for a/w 13 in high-shine metallics and patent leathers with contrast toe-cap detail. Teal, nude and gold tones, along with classic black and white combinations, all made an appearance this season, while spikes, studs and bows were the on-trend details not to be missed.

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butterfly Twists, £10, 0845 094 0278 Phildon, £10, 020 8309 8880 Grendha, £11.50, 01992 769612 Lydc, price on request, 0161 839 9271 dolcis, £9.99, 01706 212512 moda in Pelle, £25.95, 0113 200 7360

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RIDING HIGH The traditional riding boot silhouette is more popular than ever, and this season buyers at Moda were inundated with a choice of glossy leathers in classic tan and black tones.

Meanwhile, the addition of forest green, navy and purple shades kept the boot trend looking fresh. Gold hardware and quilting are the high-fashion touches that transform the humble boot into a bestseller.

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vitti Love, £52, 07778 595508 vanilla moon, £57.95, 01536 310447 fiona mcGuiness, £48.90, 07919 023547 ravel, £48, 01706 212512 Wonders, €82, 01455 203222 Posh Wellies, £28, 01706 212512

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35 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH 2013

FASHION —

FEET FIRST WWB takes a look at the latest news and footwear collections to watch for a/w 13.

— MIZ MOOZ New York label Miz Mooz is proof that fashion and comfort can co-exist. Its designs are always edgy, playful and quirky, while also comfortable and well-crafted. Key styles for a/w 13 include funky boots, ballet pumps and Mary Janes, with an autumnal colour palette that is warm and versatile.

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KAT MACONIE Having launched her own label in 2009, footwear designer Kat Maconie has made a name for her design-led shoes that fuse fashion and function. The brand draws inspiration from trims found everywhere from British antique shops to vintage markets, with each pair including the Kat Maconie signature gold screw feature and luxury padded insoles.

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THIERRY RABOTIN Thierry Rabotin once again combines comfort with design and style, putting strong emphasis not only on the aesthetics, but also the craftsmanship of the range. The flexible construction classic styles are dominated by rounded shapes, elastic inserts and rubber soles that are thick and lightweight.

Ballerinas sit alongside classic wedges, while ankle boots also feature.

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COCOROSE Cocorose specialises in luxury ballet pumps, with buttermilk nude, burgundy and noir forming the basis of a sophisticated colour palette this season. New for a/w 13 is the introduction of its pointed and on-trend loafer styles, as well as the debut of the brand’s diffusion range, incorporating a petite heel.

The label’s signature foldable ballet pumps continue to be at the forefront of the design development, with its luxury heritage range continued from last season.

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>>>

36 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH 2013

SANITA Established for more than 100 years, Danish clog brand Sanita has managed to invent itself over and over again, adding endless guises and versions of the classic clog to its mix season after season. Traditional clogs sit alongside boots, with a particular focus on uppers, which range from oiled nubucks through printed cow leather to lambskin, with rivets, buckles and seams adding cool details.

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LISA KAY In line with this season’s trends, the colour palette at Lisa Kay is deep and rich, with burnt orange, mustard, purple and bordeaux among the key shades. Italian calf leather, soft suedes and metallic nappas form the basis of the collection, which features knee-high boots, ankle boots, shoe boots and mid-heel shoes, alongside evening styles, moccasins and pumps.

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THE JACKSONS This season at The Jacksons, boots are at the forefront and come in various designs, all featuring soft suede and supple leathers, including styles for everyday wear with crepe soles, distressed metallic leather or funky fur lined short styles.

Highlights also include on-trend slipper shoes, which are updated in colourful muted sequins.

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FASHION —

SOL SANA Australian label Sol Sana is launching to the UK for a/w 13, incorporating elements of high fashion in a variety of casual styles.

Though the brand has a luxe feel, prices are affordable, promising to bring a high-end look to a broader market, with genuine leather products offered at entry to mid price points. The collection includes flats, wedges, heels and boots.

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J SHOES J Shoes’ a/w 13 collection takes inspiration from country living and the “good life”. Key looks in the women’s range are therefore based on urban rural chic, with boots a particular focus.

Leather soles and a rich autumnal colour palette add depth and a feeling of luxury.

Wholesale prices start at £38.

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GARDINERS Highlights at Gardiners include wedge boots in suede, made in three colourways including black, taupe and red. The style also features Indian-inspired patterns on the leg, incorporating key trends into the mix. Wholesale prices start at £16, with no minimum orders.

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38 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH 2013

FASHION —

ACCESSORIES WWB takes a look ahead to the accessories brands making waves for a/w 13 with innovative designs and on-trend product.

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Sarah Forsyth London

Orly Genger By Jaclyn Mayer

Bobelle London

Alexia

Bulaggi

Zoe & Morgan

SARAH FORSYTH LONDON London-based designer Sarah Forsyth’s trademark is stylish handbags in the finest leather and exotic skins including python, cobra, lizard, water snake and stingray, with many of the bags coming in bright and metallic colours or with feather finishes. Styles available for a/w 13 range from clutch bags with gold chains, through to evening and larger day bags, wallets and purses alongside iPad covers and sleeves, and exotic skin belts.

ALEXIA Dark forests, fairies, unicorns, birds, cobwebs and beetles provide design inspiration for scarf brand Alexia this season, with prints in moody tones of dark brown, grey, khaki and pale pink, alongside pops of neon. Giant collars and supersized snoods take centre stage and are decorated with woollen tassels, looped chains, ostrich feathers, crystals, sequins, studs, zippers and faux fur.

ORLY GENGER BY JACLYN MAYER Since its inception, Orly Genger By Jaclyn Mayer has caught the eye of fashion insiders, and most recently collaborated with J.Crew to produce a mass-marketed line. For a/w 13, a rich palette of purple, yellow, red and gold is adopted across signature rope necklaces and bracelets, alongside new chain pendants and mixed-material cuffs.

BULAGGI The Bulaggi a/w 13 collection of handbags and accessories has been divided into three themes – Drama, History and Shadow. Featuring metallic tones alongside sapphire, mauve, spruce green, oxblood and amethyst, styles are embellished with fake fur, chains and trendy studs.

Also, big news for the season are high-gloss finishes and python and snakeskin imitation fabrics across day-to-evening fashion-forward styles.

BOBELLE LONDON BoBelle London’s handbags are made in Somerset, using the finest Italian leathers, premium hardware and Swiss zips. Designs feature chic detailing including the signature BoBelle clasp and “bow” handle detail in both classic and fashion colours. New for 2013 is the Berkeley (pictured) with long strap, the Cadogan and Fitzrovia shoulder bags, the Rose glitter box clutch and the roomy Rivington tote in dove grey, black and mushroom.

ZOE & MORGAN Jewellery label Zoe & Morgan combines art and history with fashion and fun for designs that range from bold and striking to delicate and feminine.

The a/w 13 collection, Free and Foxy, features these signature designs along with brand new twists, highlights of which include drop earrings and sculptural rings and bracelets with added gemstones.

39 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH 2013

FASHION —

ROUND-UP

Emma Chapman

Bjørg

Olivia Burton

Owen Barry

Rosemary Goodenough

Liebeskind

EMMA CHAPMAN Having recently launched in the US, and with new stockists including Whistles, Emma Chapman continues its winning formula for a/w 13 with exotic statement jewellery in gold and silver. As ever, carving, engraving and Jali work are hallmarks of the brand, and are translated into shapes of flowers, leaves, trees and birds embedded with gemstones.

Highlights include chandelier earrings and statement cuffs.

OWEN BARRY Owen Barry offers a palette of over 80 on-trend and classic colours in leathers, suede and cowhides with trimmings sourced and commissioned from environmentally friendly resources. This season, key pieces include the Dudley slouch bag in zebra print, the Otto shoulder bag in cappuccino cowhide and bestseller Puppies in new shade, orange glaze (pictured).

BJØRG Reflecting on the perpetual change of nature, the 2013 Odyssey collection from Bjørg features vibrant opals growing from dark metals, wooden shapes, melted liquid shapes and psychedelic colours, leading to a playful and surrealistic feel. In addition, Bjørg will also present its classic range, which has its foundation in silver, diamonds and precious stones.

ROSEMARY GOODENOUGH Luxury brand Rosemary Goodenough was spotted at trade show Scoop by fashion forecasting agency Trendstop, which took Mad Red Flowers V 90cm classic square silk twill scarf and Mad Red Flowers V 45cm square pocketchief to display in its Trend Lounge at Magic International Fashion Show in Las Vegas. The label was chosen by Trendstop as a perfect example of a luxury English brand bang on trend for a/w 13/14.

OLIVIA BURTON True to the Olivia Burton ethos, the 2013 collection is inspired by vintage catwalk trends and nature, and there is an introduction of exciting new strap colours to its bestselling colour crush and big dial collection, which include red, yellow, sparkly black, metallic brown and electric blue. Motifs such as hummingbirds, bees and butterflies remain this season, reflecting the brand’s British heritage.

LIEBESKIND Liebeskind launched into the UK this season with key accounts in Anthropologie, Question Air and The Dressing Room to name a few.

For a/w 13 the Liebeskind vintage styles feature distressed, waxy nubuck leathers, studded soft leathers and the brand’s new snake range, where leather is treated to replicate snake skin and then sprayed with contrasting colours to create a directional look.

40 WOmenSWear buyer wwb-online.co.uk — marcH 2013

PrOmOTIOn —

THE ESSENTIAL RESOURCE FOR THE WOMENSWEAR INDUSTRY. —

WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK Wwb-online.co.uk is the essential free business tool, bringing you industry advice, up-to-the-minute news, insightful features and trend information at the click of a button.

From the team behind WWB magazine, the website covers every aspect of the womenswear industry. Frequently updated news across a broad range of topics will help you keep your finger on the pulse, while a variety of unique content that complements WWB’s comprehensive industry and style reports brings you rounded, in-depth knowledge and information. Brand spotlights, short-order specials and trend overviews are just some of the must-read features, all of which will aid your buying decisions and help enhance your in-store offer.

The Retail section provides further vital inspiration, covering everything from visual merchandising ideas to advice and suggestions from the brains behind some of the UK’s most successful independents. Articles in the People section focus on the movers and shakers across womenswear to give you the inside track on what makes them tick and how they stay ahead of the game.

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maKe WWb-OnLIne.cO.uK yOur daILy SOurce Of eSSenTIaL faSHIOn InduSTry InfOrmaTIOn – IT’S OnLy a cLIcK aWay.

neWS Industry news that is relevant to you, from new launches to trading predictions and business reports.

— reTaIL Want to explore multi-channelling in order to drive sales, learn more about the latest market research or gain inspiration for visual merchandising? You’ll find it all here – and it could prove highly profitable.

— brandS Useful profiles of familiar favourites and up-and-coming brands alike, along with broader features on their evolution, strategy and direction.

— OPInIOn Read what the experts think about current and ongoing issues affecting the industry – their insights could prove invaluable to your business.

— feaTureS Reports, interviews and brand profiles on the issues, industry figures and companies everyone wants to know about.

— TrendS Short-order stock, ranging from fashion and footwear to inspirational add-on product.

— evenTS As well as previews and reviews, wwb-online.co.uk will keep you informed about the essential dates for your diary.

— bLOG WWB’s bloggers are passionate about the fashion industry and always have something interesting to say. Find out what’s getting them talking.

To advertise on wwb-online.co.uk call Mina on 01484 846069 or email Mina@ras-publishing.com

42 WomensWear buyer — march 2013

revieW —

SCOOP INTERNATIONAL With a record number of exhibitors and visitors, scoop international reaffirmed its position as the most innovative and directional trade shoW on the calendar. WWb sums up some of the many hero pieces and key brands that stood out.

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becksÖndergaard “It” brand Becksöndergaard has had a spectacular 12 months and continues to be one of the most sought-after accessories labels. Its scarves and handbags offered a quirky mix of print and colour.

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by ti mo

By Ti Mo provided a much welcome dose of bling with this gold sequin tunic, which proved to be among the bestsellers for a/w 13.

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candice cooper The German brand oozes some serious cool when it comes to sneakers, whether it’s glam sequinned versions or this sheepskin-lined style, which added perfect urban chic.

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christel und sinn The brand is increasingly building a loyal following in the UK, and its structured and well-constructed pieces are elegant and versatile.

This sparkly textured coat was among the highlights of this season’s range.

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coccinelle The brand once again offered a fine selection of handbags, including totes, clutches and holdalls, with classic and timeless shapes featuring heavily, but updated by new colour schemes and detailing.

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des petits hauts The label made its Scoop debut and impressed with versatile knits that were both on-trend and timeless, with a colour scheme of peaches and pastels particularly appealing.

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eileen fisher US label Eileen Fisher’s relaxed style was well received by buyers at Scoop, with loose silhouettes with an emphasis on textures and high quality having formed the perfect base for chic layering.

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filippa k Filippa K stayed true to its signature of elegant and minimalist shapes and colour schemes. Among the highlights was this camel coat with a slant on the cocoon shape.

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43 WomensWear buyer — march 2013

revieW —

hoss intropia Textures were a key focus at Hoss Intropia this season, with a play on different materials, but also finishes such as cut-outs and intarsias among the key features.

This sleeved dress was the perfect glam all-rounder.

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house of harloW The brand is going from strength to strength in the UK and this season’s jewellery offering impressed once again with full impact statement pieces such as these necklaces key.

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hunky dory We fell in love with Hunky Dory’s take on this season’s massive faux fur trend, with this jacket ticking all the right boxes in terms of colour and glam factor.

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John & pearl Statement jewellery was also provided by John & Pearl, whose neon, gold and stud necklaces really stood out and delivered a welcome colour splash.

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liu Jo Liu Jo struck a perfect balance between elegant chic and urban casual, with many styles lending themselves to be dressed up or down.

Knitwear was particularly strong, as was this on-trend bouclé jacket.

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m.Wiesneck Danish brand M.Wiesneck is only in its second season, but has already impressed with its typical Scandinavian cool. This leather and wool coat was a perfect example of the brand’s skilled play with materials, shapes and textures.

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mark’s Japanese stationery brand Mark’s is now a regular at Scoop and continues to provide quirky and fantastically original add-ons for any boutique, with innovative notebooks, masking tape and lots of other charming knick-knacks key.

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morah morah Impeccably crafted leather pumps, boots and ballerinas caught our attention at Morah Morah. Luxe finishes and attention to detail were key, with this pair of ballerinas among our favourites.

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niin XL cuffs and bracelets could be found over at ethical jewellery brand Niin, whose unusual mix of materials and stones – often with healing power – impressed.

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odd molly Continuing with its bohemian touch, Odd Molly once again provided a colourful range, with embroidered tops and tunics, as well as this cute take on checks, key.

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rosemary goodenough Stocked by the likes of Pollyanna and Wolf & Badger, the brand is going from strength to strength. An expanded selection of unique prints and colours was on offer this season.

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unreal fur As the name suggests, Unreal Fur specialises in faux fur and made quite a splash at Scoop with its stylish gilets and jackets in a range of colours and finishes.

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44 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH 2013

REVIEW —

BEST OF MODA

Mado et les Autres

BERRY SHADES Berry tones made a comeback for a/w 13 and ranged from darker grapes and blueberry to warmer raspberry shades, creating a flattering and versatile colour palette.

Anna Scott

WWB sums up the key trends that dominated last month’s edition of Moda Woman.

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Kali Orea

Apanage

Coster Copenhagen

Pomodoro

Apanage

Bianca

Pause Café

TANGERINE

BOUCLÉ JACKETS

A fruity taste of tangerine was the surprise shade of the season, having been utilised by many brands across outwear and knitwear styles. Warm and vibrant, tangerine looked great contrasted against neutral black or layered with bright prints.

Boxy bouclé jackets were among the key pieces of a/w 13 and could be found across most collections, either as elegant and formal styles, or as more relaxed versions.

Detailing such as chain trims, interesting buttons or coloured threads added a quirky twist.

Creenstone

Hauber

Pomodoro

Steilmann

Bianca

Steilmann

45 WomensWear buyer — march 2013

bianca

revieW —

fran & Jane

naya

latte

leather

mustard

Always a key staple for many collections, leather jackets once again featured across many brands, with takes on the ever-popular biker style aplenty. Leather trims and accents, however, were also around and offered a trendy play on textures.

A splash of colour came in the form of mustard shades, which were used not only on knitwear styles, but also offered a new vibrancy on outerwear or tops and blouses.

pause café

hauber

culture

latte

bianca

hauber

James lakeland

marble

fran & Jane

pomodoro

petrol

faux fur

Petrol dominated collections for a/w 12 and made a welcome return this season, offering another colour alternative to greys and blacks.

Faux fur jackets came to the fore this season, and the bigger, fluffier and more cocooning, the better. Animal looks featured heavily, while gilets offered a stylish alternative to conventional jackets and coats. kali orea

marble

masai

pause cafe

latte

apanage

46 WomensWear buyer — march 2013

revieW —

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK WWB brings you a handpicked selection of brands, as spotted at trade shows Gallery, Vision and CIFF, during Copenhagen Fashion Week’s a/w 13 edition last month.

— doma Argentinean label Doma presented its luxe range of leather jackets, with stand-out pieces including a green biker style with gold zip detail and quilted arms.

Meanwhile, Western themes were in full swing with distressed dip dyes in earthy tones, cowboy fringing, plenty of studs and star motifs. Though premium, styles are designed to be wearable, with arms that zip off to turn into a gilet just one handy feature.

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baum und pferdgarten

rosemunde

The brand stayed true to its signature colour of midnight blue for a/w 13, working in dark burgundy, forest green, dusty rose, light pink, petrol and electric blue along the way. Mixing and sampling Asian references with European references from the 60s resulted in some great shapes, alongside more straightforward sports and army themes.

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The a/w 13 collection is a reflection of yesteryear, capturing classic Rosemunde pieces and adding a new dimension. Silhouettes were feminine and chic, with relaxed tailoring key. Colour-block and rose-printed T-shirts and drawstring silk trousers in a floral pattern were among the popular additions to a well-rounded range of basics such as vest tops and slip dresses.

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gudrun & gudrun

carin Wester

For the new collection, Marrakesh Unannounced, inspiration came from travelling around villages in Marrakesh, and new shapes appear in a host of both neutral and bright red and yellow colour combinations. As ever, the major part of the collection is handmade

by Faroese and Jordanian women using 100 per cent untreated and un-dyed Faroese wool.

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Swedish designer Carin Wester looks to strong masculine shapes and a focus on sharp shoulders this season with a silhouette based on an oversized and layered colourplay. Melton wool coats, pleated flannel skirts, wide flannel shorts, angora sweaters and sharp pencil skirts all set the tone in hues of camel, navy, ice blue and dusty pink.

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mayla stockholm Founded in 2010 by Swedish graphic designer Marlene Abraham, Mayla Stockholm comprises elegant, feminine and, above all, wearable pieces. This season, the brand takes inspiration from the world of Alfred Hitchcock, offering a contemporary take on some of his favourite muses – American actresses Tippi Hedren, Grace Kelly and Kim Novak. The mood is dark and edgy with quirky bird prints and different textures including a mix of silk jacquard knits, metallic bouclé, lace and sheer silk pleats.

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47 WomensWear buyer — march 2013

revieW —

ganni Ganni’s autumn collection was inspired

by Virginia Woolf’s unconventional artistic life. Her love of dressing in her husband’s clothes has been translated into stylish suits, shirts and sharply tailored trousers, while her poetry was mirrored in the collection’s pretty dresses and lace pieces.

Meanwhile, the prints of the season ranged from dark flowers and refined leopard to thin stripes and polka dots over graphic 60s minimalism.

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peter Jensen

maska

As ever, prints are key for designer Peter Jensen this season. A small repeat jewel print was noted as a predicted bestseller, alongside a terrace house print in brown and a jacquard in navy and royal purple.

Alongside the classic knits, basic tunic dress shapes complemented the selection of tailored trousers.

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Premium knitwear label Maska was founded in 2009 from a love of yarn and the craft of knitting. The a/w 13 collection, inspired by harsh Nordic landscapes and androgyny, is more minimalist and masculine than previous ranges, in a cool colour palette.

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my mynt

nümph

Designer Signe Sand has created My Mynt’s a/w 13 line based on young Scandinavian women’s needs for a versatile winter wardrobe, from comfy knits to little black party dresses. Sharp, clean lines are softened with draped feminine shapes, while colours and prints are expressed through winter forest shades and animal patterns.

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Young fashion label Nümph showcased its collection, entitled Black Rose, for a/w 13. Inspired by menswear, the 60s, old vintage brocade and pop culture, the range was a mix of strong prints and texture. Stand-out pieces proved to be knits, shirting and outerwear. In addition, the brand launched its new jeans range, focusing on print, details and fabric.

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stine goya For a/w 13, the Danish designer has found her inspiration in French director George Méilés’ 1902 film, A Trip to the Moon, and early science-fiction references were easy to spot as a result. There were big sequins throughout – some shaped like the moon and stars – while more literal prints featured on basic T-shirts.

Zip details were a reoccurring theme on uniform-style jackets and coats, paired with slinky jersey pieces and slim pants in a signature palette of black, gold, pale grey and sugary pink.

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Ganni.dk

For sales inquiries, please contact sales@ganni.dk

49 WomensWear buyer — march 2013

revieW —

THE EXHIBITION AT LFW WWB’s Natalie Dawson took to the cobbles of Somerset House to discover what The Exhibition at London Fashion Week had to offer for a/w 13.

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BEAUTIFUL SOUL This season’s line featured bouquets of hydrangeas as the signature print. The flower heads were placed on a delicate lilac, peach or a bolder black background, with ladybirds hidden on the petals. The range included a selection of day-to-evening dresses, playsuits and separates offering both classic and contemporary silhouettes.

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BLAKE LDN The latest collection was inspired by vintage ski images and modernised by using panelling and racing stripes in angora and cashmere. Clashing hues of gold and bright neon were framed with deep navy and army greens across new styles of bomber jackets, oversized boyfriend sweaters and chunky ribbed polo necks.

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EACH X OTHER Each X Other believes clothes should not be focused on men or women and proposes a unisex wardrobe with a classic masculine direction. In line with the “boyfriend” look, this season’s collection included easy to layer items including print sweaters and T-shirts alongside statement pieces such as leather biker jackets.

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CALLA The French label was inspired by NASA space imagery and iconic 80s video games for the new season. Key pieces included printed denim in slim and boyfriend cut options and sequin logo sweatshirts. New for a/w 13 is a collaboration with knitwear designer Michaela Buerger.

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MR START WOMAN The first womenswear line from the Shoreditch label promises elegance with a nod towards the masculine. Architectural shapes were seen across separates, including shirts, jumpers and blazers that had a slim-fit, boyfriend silhouette. Key pieces included a grey herringbone overcoat and this navy overcoat with subtle metallic flecks.

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RODEBJER Swedish label Rodebjer presented an a/w 13 collection inspired by the designer’s childhood in the harsh environment of Gotland Island with key themes of organic structures and fairy tales.

Silhouettes across suits, sets and dresses were loose and layered, while chunky knits, as well as garments in sheepskin, were particular highlights.

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50 WomensWear buyer — march 2013

revieW —

FRONT ROW SEAT Walk like a man The Daks a/w 13 line was inspired by Charlotte Rampling’s sophisticated and androgynous style while also celebrating the art of the pattern cutter through plays on traditional proportions and through folding, layering and draping. Designers Richard Nicoll and Antonio Berardi followed suit (pun intended) with contemporary twists on sartorial classics in muted tones of French navy and steel grey. Paul Smith punctuated an autumnal palette with bright pops of fuchsia, cobalt, teal and rust, while designer Alexis Mabille sent models down the runway in double-breasted jacket dresses, wide-lapel overcoats and men’s shirts.

The typically feminine Felder Felder also got on board the trend, showing a suit in velvet inspired by the 70s.

— antonio berardi

felder felder

daks

alexis mabille

richard nicoll

paul smith

colour me oxblood Oxblood, the most popular colour of a/w 12, was back for another showing this season. Among its fans were designers Jean Paul Gaultier, Eugene Lin, design duo Felder Felder, Maria Grachvogel and Christopher Kane, the latter of which splashed the colour across rich velvets, short, flirty dresses embellished with feathers and patent leather booties to great effect. Also championing oxblood for the second season was Burberry Prorsum, which looked to the 60s for inspiration when reinventing brand classics such as trench coats and column dresses in glossy cashmere, calfskin and laminated python print leather. To finish, both Costume National and BCBG Max Azria used oxblood sparingly as a highlight colour to their mainly monochrome colour palettes.

— maria grachvogel

bcbg max azria

burberry prorsum

christopher kane

costume national

Jean paul gaultier

51 WomensWear buyer — march 2013

revieW —

WWB takes a look at the key trends to emerge from the a/w 13 catwalks in New York, London, Milan and Paris.

— heating up Fur was once again big news on the a/w 13 catwalks, with a number of Brit designers trying their hand with the trend for the first time. Christopher Kane tipped his camouflage prints and wool jackets with golden fox, while J.W. Anderson created sleeveless fur tunics and House of Holland added pom-pom-like marabou embellishment to grey marl jumpers. Bora Aksu was inspired by vaudeville theatre act the Dolly Sisters, whose appetite for wealth was played out through the richness of fabric, including Turkish leather, shearling pelts, wool embroideries and laminated laces.

Across the pond, Givenchy added fur jackets to its gypsy themed range and Thakoon translated goatskin furs across structured cocoon shapes in a palette of blues, lavender and mauves.

— christopher kane

givenchy

house of holland

bora aksu

J.W. anderson

thakoon

a stitch in time Moving on from the digital prints showcased in summer to something with a more handmade feel, a/w 13 decorations were embroidered or embellished, and all the richer as a result.

At PPQ, this translated to organza layering and satin patchworks on cocktail dresses and body-con eveningwear.

Over at Holly Fulton, sequined feathers, jewel-encrusted tops and leather jackets embroidered with ivory lilies stood out alongside a patchwork red jacket and skirt. Also on trend were Manish Arora’s sequin embroideries, beads and chains, while Henry Holland added crystal embellishments. Eudon Choi’s first foray into knitwear saw embroidered Swarovski crystals in mint and rose, and Christopher Kane finished with a T-shirt featuring an MRI brain scan and dresses fabricated from fine black wires.

— eudon choi

house of holland

ppQ

holly fulton

christopher kane

manish arora

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54 WomensWear buyer — march 2013

retail diary Value for money is the name of the fashion game in the current economic conditions. We have had the most challenging few years I’ve known since opening my first shop in 1987. We’ve had tough times before, but they have lasted only 12-18 months, not more than four years.

We are in an affluent area of Cheshire, but even our customers are more price-conscious than they were five years ago. They still spend, but they want to be sure of the perceived value of what they are buying. They want quality, versatility, longevity and a sensible price that is not a gazillion miles from the high street prices.

We have moved to lifestyle collections and that is why something like Sandwich has become – excuse the pun! – a bread-and-butter range for us.

We have had to become better at managing our business. We know “information is king” since installing our first Epos system at the end of last summer. We had a “beauty parade” of suppliers and finally went with Mode Retail – partly because, at around £4,000, its price was great. We are a one-shop business; we weren’t interested in an over-engineered system at £9,000-£11,000. Our sales analysis is much better; we know what sells and what doesn’t, and we have a better idea of what lines make us money. Having the Epos system has also allowed us to set up a loyalty points scheme. For each transaction, the customer gets a five per cent cash reward to use against subsequent purchases.

Most customers let something build up on account. It is helpful when someone is looking at a £199 blouse from Elisa Cavaletti to remind them that they have, say, £35 sitting in their loyalty account.

Of course, we have been forced to constantly look at our own costs. As members of FAB, we benefit from the amazing plastic card transaction rates. We get offered deals on this almost every week, but no one has come close to what FAB offers. We are seeing more cash than previously, but most of our sales are still on cards.

Having done my buying for autumn 2013, I’m feeling optimistic. If you are not optimistic in the fashion retail business, it’s time to give up and do something else.

Jeanette Ellis owns Pickwicks in Nantwich, Cheshire. (www.fashionassociationof britain.co.uk)

forum —

RETAIL FORUM

The latest news from the industry —

littleJohn supports british designers

LN-CC REVEALS NEW-LOOK SHOP

Littlejohn recently opened its doors in Stratford-upon-Avon with a focus on purely British fashion and gifts. The store supports British designers and manufacturers by exclusively stocking products from the British Isles. “Many of the major high street chains have launched British collections, established clothing manufacturers are once again expanding, and new fashion companies are starting up all over the UK. We intend to grow with this trend and build new business relationships with more successful designers across the country that are backing Britain,” says store owner Maria Petitjean.

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Concept store LN-CC has unveiled two new areas as part of its spring/summer 2013 store evolution in its East London location.

The shop, which operates on an appointment-only basis, has installed the Secular Space, which has been dedicated to showcasing footwear and leather goods brands, featuring luxury designers such as Balenciaga, Lanvin and Givenchy alongside more niche labels such as Myriam Schaffer. The room’s octagonal form mirrors the store’s main tunnel architecture, though it is constructed from crisp floor-to-ceiling neoprene that lends a clean and understated feel. The overall offer has been further enhanced by Chameleon, an exclusive in-store bar and sound space, which will host a range of events.

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maria petitjean

have you opened a neW store, launched a transactional Website, organised an event or have any other in-store neWs? then let us knoW by getting in touch at carey@ras-publishing.com.

55 WomensWear buyer — march 2013

forum —

HOW IMPORTANT IS BRAND EXCLUSIVITY TO YOU?

chic freak celebrates With launch event Portobello Road boutique Chic Freak opened its doors late last year and celebrated with a launch event at the end of January.

The West London store stocks a variety of labels including Wildfox, Tatty Devine, Hudson Jeans and Betty B, alongside handmade clothing and accessories from designers and artists. The store also houses its own brand label designed by owner Tamarisk East-Rigby. “We are aiming to stock interesting, beautiful items for all budgets, so the inexpensive pieces have to be well-designed, quirky or funny to hold their own next to the top-end designer pieces,” says East-Rigby.

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We ask four retailers this month’s hot question lauren ferguson Owner, Sisters Boutique, Falkirk

— exclusivity is the number one factor i consider when starting with a new brand. i only work with labels that are exclusive to me in falkirk.

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— the success of my store relies on brand exclusivity. the local customer only makes up three per cent of the customer database, so by carrying exclusive brands i am able to attract clients from all over the world. this is the reason for nomad, our in-house label, being successful because it can only be found at pollyanna.

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rita britton Owner, Pollyanna, Barnsley

Mac & Posh, based in Perth, Scotland, revealed its new s/s 13 collections at a launch event last month.

VIP customers were invited to the store to browse and shop the new ranges while enjoying a glass of champagne. New-season stock included pieces from Sugarhill Boutique, Kling, Motel Rocks, Miss Real and London Rebel, and customers received 10 per cent off new lines.

“We received a great reaction towards our collections and we look forward to a successful season,” says co-owner Sarah MacDonald.

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MY FAVOURITE SHOP...

the dressing room 6-8 high street st albans, herts al3 4el

the dressing room

by Jemma fennings, director of olivia burton watches

owner: Deryane Tadd store opened: 2005 brands carried: 2nd Day, American Vintage, Twist & Tango, Hudson Jeans, Maison Scotch and Worn By “The Dressing Room in St Albans houses an edited selection of brands in a friendly and professional environment. Owner Deryane Tadd was one of the first to put down an order on our debut range of watches, seeing the potential of the brand, which is testament to her incredible eye and ability to introduce newness. The staff are friendly and trained to offer style advice.

Constantly moving with the times, embracing new labels and providing an exceptional customer experience, whether in-store or online, The Dressing Room is up there with the best.”

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clare serJeant Owner, Fox & Feather, Bristol

— my aim is to bring my customers a fresh, new look each season with unique designers and a bespoke service, giving women an outfit that will feel exclusive to them. i feel it is important to create a shopping experience where my customers feel able to browse, unwind and spoil themselves.

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© Christopher Sedgewick Photography

MAC & POSH KICKS OFF S/S 13 IN STYLE

— exclusivity is not always essential. some of our most popular brands have grown hugely since we first exclusively stocked them. their success has meant department stores have added them, too, but i do not think it has a negative affect on trade – it reinforces the idea that we find great brands first.

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Jenny gray Owner, Violet and Rose, Skipton

56 WomensWear buyer — march 2013

directory —

garment labels

hat boxes

rails

t-shirts

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

steamers and irons

garment stands   

         

           

                  

headWear

       

to advertise please call mina or Jasprit on

  

01484 846069

hangers

or email mina@ras-publishing.com jasprit@ras-publishing.com Arctic Fox • Hats • Gloves Scarves • Sunglasses • Ski Goggles

Wanted

Tel: 01923 210646 Fax: 01923 210647 Email: info@bullseyeinternation.co.uk



   

manneQuins to advertise please call mina or Jasprit on

to advertise please call mina or Jasprit on

01484 846069

01484 846069

or email mina@ras-publishing.com jasprit@ras-publishing.com

or email mina@ras-publishing.com jasprit@ras-publishing.com

           

  

57 WomensWear buyer — march 2013

directory —

agents Wanted

names and numbers

Calico

Acquaverde 0845 094 4012 www.acquaverde.com Alexia 07956 585627 www.alexiafashion.co.uk Ali Ro 020 7633 9888 www.ali-ro.com Anna Scott 0031 20503666 www.annascott.co.uk Apanage 020 7636 7111 www.apanage.de Baum und Pferdgarten 07861 785763 www.baumundpferdgarten.dk Beautiful Soul London 020 8616 0316 www.beautiful-soul.co.uk Becksöndergaard 0045 35837083 www.becksondergaard.com Bernshaw 020 7612 0100 www.bernshaw.com Bianca 020 7580 0085 www.bianca.de Bjørg Jewellery 07783 118365 www.bjorgjewellery.com Blake LDN 07849 199563 www.blake-london.com BoBelle London 020 7759 1055 www.bobellelondon.com Bourne 01482 334590 www.bournecollection.com Bronx 0114 281 5111 www.bronxshoes.com Bulaggi 0031 (0)356212757 www.bulaggi.com Butterfly Twists 0845 094 0278 www.butterflytwists.com

By Ti Mo 0047 40402769 www.bytimo.com Calla 0033 (0)153574220 www.calla.fr Candice Cooper 0041 445330130 www.candicecooper.net Carin Wester 0046 8347700 www.carinwester.com Christel und Sinn 020 7487 3070 www.christelundsinn.de Coccinelle 020 7287 8119 www.coccinelle.com Coster Copenhagen 020 3432 6385 Creenstone 020 7436 1701 www.creenstone.com Culture 020 3432 6385 Daisy London 020 3214 3175 www.daisyjewellery.com Dannijo 0016 467558909 www.dannijo.com Des Petits Hauts 0033 143575848 www.despetitshauts.com Dolcis 01706 212512 Doma www.doma-leather.com Durango 01740 753 9100 www.durangoboot.com Each X Other 020 3227 4970 www.each-other.com Eileen Fisher 0012 124664301 www.eileenfisher.com Emma Chapman 020 3302 9585 www.emmachapmanjewels.com Esamis 07891 797656 www.esamis.com Filippa K 0046 86157096 www.filippa-k.com Fiona McGuiness 07919 023547 www.fionamcguinness.com Ganni 020 7428 9455 www.ganni.dk Glamour n Glitz Shoes 01282 773891 www.glitzshoes.com Grendha 01992 769612 www.ghwarnerfootwear.com Gudrun & Gudrun 0045 (0)29617077 www.gudrungudrun.com Hauber 020 7323 6100 www.hauber-fashion.de Hoss Intropia 020 7287 1300 www.hossintropia.com House of Harlow 020 7349 8887 www.claretshowroom.com Hunky Dory 0046 8678 0550 www.hunkydory.se James Lakeland 020 7636 7130 www.jameslakeland.net John & Pearl 07740 150224 www.johnandpearl.co.uk Kali Orea 0039 051752912 www.kaliorea.com Latte 0141 204 0699 www.latteclothing.com Liebeskind 07971 10329 www.liebeskind-berlin.com Liu Jo 07889 649508 www.liujo.it LYDC 0161 839 9271 www.gessy.co.uk Mado et les Autres 0161 228 0573 Marble 029 2066 4661 www.marblefashions.co.uk Maria Mare 07870 175149 www.mtngexperience.com Masai 020 7385 9273 www.masai.dk Mark’s 0033 142778763 www.marks-japan.eu Maska 0046 (0)313133239 www.maskaknits.com Mayla Stockholm 0046 8244444 www.mayla.se MJUS 07935 648070 www.mjus-shoes.com Moda in Pelle 0113 200 7360 www.modainpelle.com Morah Morah 020 8123 5810 www.morahmorah.com Mr Start Woman 020 7033 3951 www.startlondon.com Mtng 07870 175149 www.mtngexperience.com M Wiesneck 07971 103329 www.michalawiesneck.com My Mynt 0045 22331576 www.mymynt.com Niin 0085 228788811 www.niinstyle.com Not The Same 0031 611396295 www.notthesame.com Nümph 020 7485 8633 www.numph.dk Odd Molly 0046 852228500 www.oddmolly.com Olivia Burton Watches 07734 903452 www.oliviaburton.com Olsen 020 7290 0890 www.olsenfashion.com Orelia 01273 434779 www.orelia.co.uk Orly Genger by Jaclyn Mayer 0019 175660817 www.jaclynmayer.com Oui 0049 8935481150 www.oui.com Owen Barry 01458 442858 www.owenbarry.com Pause Café 0161 238 8570 www.essentialcollections.net Part Two 020 8875 5801 www.parttwo.com Peter Jensen 020 7249 6894 www.peterjensen.co.uk Peter Kaiser Schuhfabrik 0049 63317160 www.peter-kaiser.de Phildon 020 8309 8880 www.phildon.co.uk Pomodoro 020 8961 4000 www.pomodoroclothing.com Posh Wellies 01706 212512 Ravel 01706 212512 www.ravel.co.uk Rodebjer 0046 (0)708925900 www.rodebjer.com Rodgers & Rodgers 01246 555228 www.rodgersandrodgers.com Ronen Chen 020 7402 5292 www.ronenchen.uk.com Rosemary Goodenough 07880 540563 www.rosemarygoodenough.co.uk Rosemunde 01625 460580 www.rosemunde.com Ruby Rocks Accessories 07973 718301 www.rubyrocks.co.uk Sachelle Couture 01536 310447 www.venutti.co.uk Sarah Forsyth London 020 7352 3191www.safor.co.uk Sixty Seven 07870 175149 www.mtngexperience.com Steilmann 020 7291 0522 www.steilmann.com Stine Goya 07557 052442 www.stinegoya.com Thu Thu 020 7729 6788 www.thu-thu.com Twist & Tango 07930 539700 www.twisttango.com Unreal Fur 020 7349 8887 www.claretshowroom.com Unze London 0333 1238693 www.unze.co.uk Vanilla Moon 01536 310447 www.venutti.co.uk Vitti Love 07778 595508 Wonders 01455 203222 www.wonders.com Zoe & Morgan 020 7586 7419 www.zoeandmorgan.com

Well known & successful, high quality scarf/ stole/shawl brand looking for experienced agents to cover the following areas: Midlands, Scotland, East Anglia, South East and London.

Contact: sales@pashfash.com Tel: 01708 455550

displays

footWear

to advertise please call mina or Jasprit on

01484 846069 or email mina@ras-publishing.com jasprit@ras-publishing.com

58 WomensWear buyer — march 2013

up close and personal —

CHARLOTTE EGELUND The new CEO of By Malene Birger talks about the brand’s 10th anniversary and its huge international success.

—

You have recently been promoted to CEO. What do you want to tackle in your new position?

I have been part of By Malene Birger for some years, and my primary goal will of course be to follow through and execute the focused international strategy we have set for the company. We have ambitious goals for the future.

INSIDER: The brand is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year. Will there be celebrations?

Yes, we have decided to turn 2013 into a year of celebrations – it’s a welcome occasion to reflect on all the goals we have achieved but also an opportunity to set new ones. We kicked off the anniversary with a beautiful show of our a/w 13 collection at the Royal Danish Theater during Copenhagen Fashion Week, and there will certainly be more things to follow.

By Malene Birger is internationally a very respected label. What do you attribute that to?

It has been part of the vision and strategy from the beginning that By Malene Birger should be an international design driven fashion house. So everything that runs through our hands is designed to have international appeal, from our collections to the marketing campaigns.

What are your plans for the next 12 months?

The next 12 months will be about tightening the focus and setting the future course of the company. One of the new, exciting ventures is that we have started collaborations in Japan with the highly regarded trading company, Yagi Tsusho, so I am very much looking forward to the next year and beyond.

—

Who is your style icon and why?

Coco Chanel. She was a style icon as well as a fantastic business woman.

— Which fashion business do you admire and why?

Karl Lagerfeld has always fascinated me  for his everlasting ability not to compromise.

— What’s the best piece of industry advice you’ve been given?

Set your goals and stick with it. Focus and work, do not compromise.

— What is the one fashion item you can’t live without?

The item dress. I buy “the perfect” dress each season – the right dress can be a life-saver and be dressed up or down for any occasion.

—