WWB MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER ISSUE 231

SEPTEMBER 2013 — ISSUE 231 WOMENSWEAR BUYER

— HIGH-STREET VISION The Grimsey Review is put in the spotlight —

— ARM CANDY Handbag designer Tissa Fontaneda shares what makes her tick —

— SPRING/SUMMER REBOOTED The key footwear trends and news of the season —

— EXTRA EXTRAS WWB’s pick of the best accessories —

03 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

CONTENTS —

REGULARS

FEATURES

FASHION

5 EDITOR’S COMMENT — 6 NEWS — 12 BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear — 14 TALKING POINT — 48 RETAIL FORUM The latest news from the industry — 51 ADVICE Experts answer your questions — 54 UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL With Zandra Rhodes —

10 BRAVE NEW WORLD The Grimsey Review — 16 Q&A With shoe designer Kat Maconie — 24 THE BAG LADY Tissa Fontaneda on the USP of her brand — 44 MODA WOMAN A review of last month’s key trends at the show —

18 STYLE FILE — 21 10 OF THE BEST Monochrome styles — 22 FASHION RADAR — 26 SOLE TO SOLE The key footwear trends for s/s 14 — 32 HOT ON THE HEELS The footwear brands to watch — 38 ACCESSORIES —

— COVER: BECKSONDERGAARD —

05 WOMENSWEAR BuyER — juLy 2013

Editor Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com — Contributors Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Kirkpatrick laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — Sub editor Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — Design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — Senior advertising sales manager Mina Parmar mina@ras-publishing.com — Sales executive Jasprit Sihra jasprit@ras-publishing.com — Subscriptions Lydia Bennett lydia.bennett@ite-exhibitions.com — Production director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — Commercial director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com — Reprographics/printing ImageData Group 01482 652323

— WWB is published 11 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 — Copyright © 2013 WWB Magazine Limited.

All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

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RAS Publishing is an ITE Group PLC company A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication WWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include MWB and CWB.

COMMENT —

IT’S ALMOST TWO yEARS SINCE MARy PORTAS PRESENTED HER HIGH-STREET REvIEW AMID A MEDIA STORM AND LOTS OF CONTROvERSy. AND IT’S FAIR TO SAy THAT THE PORTAS PILOTS HAvE FALLEN SHORT OF MOST PEOPLE’S ExPECTATIONS. — Earlier this month, retail veteran Bill Grimsey launched his alternative vision, born out of his frustration with the Portas Review, which he dismisses as little more than “superficial fluff”.

Grimsey has put forward 31 recommendations (see page 10 for the full summary), which have generated a raft of different opinions. Whether you agree or disagree with Grimsey on the points he raised, it has achieved one good thing – it’s keeping the issue of vanishing high streets and the problems retailers are facing in the public consciousness and, in this case, the more publicity, the better.

Grimsey does make some bold suggestions – for instance, a one-off levy of 0.25 per cent of one year’s UK sales from 2014 by national retail chains paid into a development fund, which I’m guessing would be welcomed by smaller indies, who feel that they have been carrying the economic burden (though I’m sure this is not going down so well with the high-street giants in question).

It will undoubtedly take some bold ideas, and bold decisions, to tackle the difficulties town centres are facing.

The latest statistics are not exactly painting a positive picture, with vacancy rates remaining stable but, nevertheless, too high for comfort (over 22,000 shops are empty in the top 650 town centres, according to figures

from the Local Data Company). The only silver lining is that it’s indies who are driving any kind of positive growth on the high street, opening up new stores at a higher rate than the chains, who tend to be pulling out of many town centres. The jury is out on whether Grimsey’s review will achieve the government attention it desires, and ultimately bring about the fundamental changes that are needed.

Isabella Griffiths, editor

06 WOMENSWEAR BuyER — SEPTEMBER 2013

NEWS —

MIxED REACTION TO GRIMSEy REvIEW Industry bodies welcome a proposed reinvention of the high street, however criticise aspects of the 31 recommendations.

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The Grimsey Review, lead by retail veteran Bill Grimsey and a team of experts, has received a mixed reaction from the industry.

A call for a dramatic review of business rates and the digitalisation of the high street has been welcomed by the majority of commentators, while recommendations such as a transformation of empty units into housing and a levy on national retailers had a lukewarm reception.

“We welcome the Grimsey report for two reasons – one, it shows that someone cares, and two, it keeps the high-street story in the news and in the national consciousness,” says Michael Weedon, deputy chief executive of the British Independent Retailers Association (Bira). “We like the focus on real data to back the conclusions, partly because some of the research was done for us originally. We agree entirely with the comments about the need for a ‘root & branch’ reform of business rates - particularly because we were the first to call for this and have never stopped. The material about the wired high street is exciting and we are involved in initiatives in this area.”

However, Weedon disagrees on a key point. “We don’t agree with the conclusion that empty shops must be turned into housing; our recent report on openings and closings shows that while over 300 independents closed each week in the first half of 2013, even more opened,” he says.

“Independents can fill those shops, if even some of the impediments to their survival are removed.”

The CBI also welcomed the rethinking of the purpose of the high street and Grimsey’s suggestion of each town implementing a business plan, but it rejects his call for a retail levy. “Rapid change in the retail sector means high streets have altered forever, and we can’t reinvent them as they once were. High streets are suffering from a lack of strategic vision, so a business plan for each town centre is a good idea – giving businesses the opportunity to work alongside local authorities to breathe new life into our town centres,” says Katja Hall, CBI chief policy director. “Action on business rates would help ease the pressure on some retailers struggling to keep their doors open. However, a one-off money grab on larger retailers would undermine investment and job creation.”

Mainly positive feedback comes from the British Property Federation, which represents landlords in the UK. Liz Peace, chief executive of the British Property Federation, says, “The government makes a great play of claiming that it wants to create an internationally competitive tax system while at the same time hamstringing the nation’s businesses with the highest rates bills in Europe – bills that are ratcheted up with inflation each year regardless of wider economic conditions. We’re pleased to see

“Action on business rates would ease the pressure on some retailers. However, a one-off money grab on larger retailers would undermine investment and job creation” that Bill Grimsey recognises the damaging impact this has had on UK high street, and we would urge the government to commit to a ‘root & branch’ review of the current business rates system, the way it is calculated and charged and the distortions it creates.”

Technology experts also embraced Grimsey’s idea of a “networked high street”.

Dan Wagner, CEO of Powa Technologies, which has implemented payment platforms for retailers such as Tesco, Superdrug, Laura Ashley and Heal’s, says, “The current retail environment is antiquated, but the paradigm is shifting. The shopping experience on the high street is usually very poor compared with the online environment, which is far more engaging and personalised. New mobile technology offers another way of competing. Retailers will have to embrace new technology and new ways of operating if they want to survive. The high street needs to evolve or die.”

07 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

NEWS —

TEMPERLEY LONDON APPOINTS NEW CEO Temperley London has appointed Ulrik Garde Due as its new CEO, who is taking over from the company’s co-founder and CEO Lars von Benningsen. Garde Due will be tasked with developing the brand further and building on its position as a leading British luxury lifestyle label, with a particular focus on international expansion.

Garde Due is joining the company from Danish luxury jewellery brand Georg Jensen.

Prior to this he built his 20-year career as a member of the transformational team at Burberry, as well as positions at Celine (LVMH) in Paris, Tokyo and New York.

“I am delighted to be joining the Temperley label,” says Garde Due. “Lars and the team have built a terrific brand platform, and when I met Alice I immediately understood her creative acumen. We need to leverage her talent fully as well as the unique positioning of aspirational, timeless and chic British lifestyle. We will exploit internationally all the great opportunities the Temperley brand represents.”

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PRIMARK REVEALS 22 PER CENT SALES INCREASE Primark is set to finish its financial year with stronger than projected results, reporting a sales increase of 22 per cent, following the warm weather over the past three months.

Despite the quiet growth in March and April earlier this year, the high-street retailer saw its summer collection experience a positive response, with the opening of 16 new stores and a stronger Euro all aiding the group’s sales increase.

The news comes as it also reveals it will not be renewing its contract with fashion e-tailer Asos, a partnership that saw Primark offer a capsule collection of select pieces on the website, allowing the group to test the water online.

Despite hitting targets set through the joint venture with Asos, the company has no plans to open a transactional website, focusing instead on its European retail expansion – including its debut store opening in France before Christmas.

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BIRA UNVEILS CASHBACK INITIATIVE The British Independent Retailers Association (Bira) has launched a cashback reward scheme, designed to give members £30 or £60 cashback when they make an order with a new supplier. Buyers will be required to make an order of the minimum value of £300, with the initiative running through to 31 December this year.

All Bira members will be eligible for the cashback reward scheme.

“By offering a cash incentive, we hope to reduce the financial burden of trying a new supplier and bring added value to Bira membership,” says Paul Woolley, managing director of Bira Direct.

— FORMER BENCH BOSS JOINS WEIRD FISH Casual leisure brand Weird Fish has appointed Kelvin Vidler, the former managing director of Americana International, parent of the Bench and Hooch brands, as its new international sales director. Vidler has been tasked with driving the international expansion of the label through its wholesale channel, with Northern Europe the target for the initial stage. Weird Fish has been growing rapidly, and has reported a 20 per cent increase in pre-sell for s/s 14 and an eight per cent rise in like-for-like sales growth in the first half year. It’s been backed by Piper, a leading specialist investor in consumer brands. The label, which is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, currently has 11 standalone retail stores and 450 wholesale accounts in the UK and the Netherlands.

— ROCKET DOG RELOCATES HEAD OFFICE Rocket Dog has relocated its European head office to Mandela Street in Camden, London. The office space comprises floor-to-ceiling windows, exposed brickwork and industrial pillars, which provide a light showroom space that translates the California heritage and creates the structure for the Rocket Dog brand.

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08 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

NEWS —

PEPE JEANS DRIVES ASIAN EXPANSION British denim label Pepe Jeans is expanding its Asian operation with the proposed opening of 50 stores over the next five years. While Thailand is a priority, the brand is looking to open stores in Indonesia, the Philippines and South Korea, taking its store portfolio to 550 worldwide.

“After 15 trips to Thailand over the past three to four years, we saw huge potential in this market and expect to have 10 flagship stores there over the next five years,” says Denolf Bruyneel, Pepe’s international director.

Pepe recently opened its biggest flagship store in South East Asia at Bangkok’s Central World shopping centre, with a 160 sq m store selling its full wardrobe offer. The company appointed Robinson Department Store to be its sole distributor, and plans to open five stores and 19 shop-in-shops within Robinson stores next year.

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GANT DRIVES UK ONLINE PRESENCE FURTHER Gant has relaunched its UK e-commerce site, offering one consistent shopping experience for consumers browsing across a range of devices including computers, tablets and mobile phones.

Designed to take advantage of the rise in mobile traffic, the new site follows the significant growth of e-commerce since the successful launch of the UK and Swedish websites onto a new platform last year. “We were one of the first brands in the UK to launch an e-commerce platform, and now it represents a significant percentage of our total retail business,” says Fergus Patterson, MD of Gant UK. “We know that a large proportion of our customers shop with us using mobile browsing technology,” he continues. “And we want to ensure we give those customers a consistent browsing experience, so that shopping with Gant online is as enjoyable and as seamless as possible.”

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TRIUMPH CHAMPIONS “MAKERS” Lingerie brand Triumph has appointed a number of celebrity ambassadors for its latest a/w 13 campaign, dubbed The Makers Collective. Singer Paloma Faith, chef and food writer Gizzi Erskine, designer Roksanda Ilincic and broadcaster and stylist Grace Woodward will be fronting the campaign, which forms part of the brand’s Supporting Women in Making initiative. The scheme aims to reach out to women across a variety of creative disciplines and celebrate craftsmanship and expertise. They will be acting as mentors in a series of consumer activities as well as hosting a number of events in Maison Triumph, a “pop-up experiential brand space” in London’s Seven Dials, which will be open to the public between September and January and will include installations, events, talks and makeover workshops.

— DISAPPOINTING CHRISTMAS SPEND ONLINE Latest research by Peerius, a specialist provider of product recommendations for e-commerce sites, found that Britain’s retailers could be heading for a disappointing online sales season this Christmas. The retailers surveyed paint an optimistic picture, with 88 per cent expecting online sales to grow by 20 per cent or more, while 25 per cent expect online sales to grow by 50 per cent or more. The consumer side, however, indicates much more cautious plans, with two thirds (66 per cent) of online shoppers indicating they will spend “the same as last year”; 16 per cent expect to spend less than they did in 2012; and just 17 per cent expect to spend more. Of those expecting to spend more, the average increase is 26 per cent.

Overall, the results paint a picture that falls well short of the 18 per cent online sales increase that helped many retailers to weather the storm of disastrous in-store sales last December.

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09 WOMENSWEAR BuyER — SEPTEMBER 2013

ONLINE GROWTH SLOWS WHILE M-COMMERCE INCREASES Online sales rose by just nine per cent in July, the weakest annual growth since January 2010, according to the IMRG Capgemini e-Retail Sales Index.

As the heat wave the country experienced during last month drove people outside, online sales growth dipped. This performance reflects a recent poll by IMRG, which unveiled that two-thirds of retailers surveyed found prolonged hot weather in July had a negative impact on their online sales.

“There is no doubt that the prolonged heat wave had a detrimental effect on online retailers,” says Tina Spooner, chief information officer, IMRG. “Following the coldest spring in over 50 years, it is hardly surprising that Britons headed outside when the much-needed sunshine appeared.”

It is interesting to note, however, that it is only desktop sales that appear to have been impacted; the mobile sales growth of 129 per cent is lower than recent months but not significantly so, suggesting that consumers still shopped via their devices while bathing in the sun.”

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NEWS —

DIESEL APPOINTS NEW CEO Denim giant Diesel has appointed Alessandro Bogliolo as new CEO, who will be taking up the position on 1 October.

Bogliolo has a strong track record in the luxury world, having started his career as a consultant at Bain & Company in Paris and Milan, after which he worked in the automotive industry for Piaggio in Spain and China.

He subsequently spent 16 years at luxury jeweller Bulgari, before being appointed North America COO of French cosmetic store chain Sephora in 2012. Bogliolo’s direct reports will include the company’s key functions, the general managers of all Diesel divisions and business units, and the general managers of all the subsidiaries worldwide.

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jOuLES SEES SALES SuRGE British label Joules has seen a 19 per cent increase in sales in the year to May 2013, mainly boosted by sales of its heritage-inspired collections in the inner countryside.

Full-year sales improved by nearly a fifth to £79m, while pre-tax profit increased from £1.1m to £3.7m over the past 12 months.

“We have always had a unique heritage that has helped us appeal to a loyal, discerning customer who knows what to expect from us – good quality, unique design and excellent value,” says Tom Joule, founder and chief executive of Joules. “It is more important than ever to listen to your customer to ensure you remain a true lifestyle brand.”

Joules has managed to reduce net debt to £1.6m from £5.5m, even after investing £5m into new store openings and infrastructure improvements.

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WAGES ERROR SEES £40M PAyOuT FOR jOHN LEWIS Department store John Lewis is set to pay out £40m this month to fix a salary blunder, following its admittance that it had underpaid staff for working on Sundays and bank holidays, with some cases dating back to 2006. The retailer said 69,000 of its 85,000 work force will receive a one-off payment this month, with the average pay-out totalling £120.

John Lewis explained that the error occurred because its pay calculations did not comply correctly with employment laws.

Famous for its “never knowingly undersold” slogan, the retailer will not take the £40m from the current year’s bonus pool – paid annually to staff – which last year totalled £210m shared among the 84,700 workers.

— vACANCy RATES REMAIN HIGH Despite vacancy rates remaining stable across the UK, the amount of empty units is still “stubbornly high”, according to a report by the Local Data Company (LDC).

The number of vacant stores currently stands at 22,339, which has gone down by 0.1 per cent from 14.2 per cent in 2012 to 14.1 per cent in 2013. Retail parks had the largest decline with a 0.8 per cent increase to 9.6 per cent of vacant units, while small towns fared better with an average vacancy rate of 9.2 per cent.

— SWEATy BETTy SHOWS STEEP ONLINE GROWTH Sweaty Betty, the women’s activewear fashion retailer, has announced a 27 per cent revenue growth from its online store year-on-year, as well as an increase in conversion rate of eight per cent. The brand credits the growth to the redesign of its website last November, which focused specifically on conversion, content and community, and saw the introduction of detailed editorial pages and interactive imagery, including rollover touch points that expand to show product details.

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10 WOMENSWEAR BuyER — SEPTEMBER 2013

REPORT —

BRAVE NEW WORLD Nearly two years on from the controversial Portas Review, businessman and former Iceland, Wickes and Focus DIY boss Bill Grimsey has presented an alternative assessment of the high street, offering up 31 recommendations of how town centres can be transformed and saved for the future. Isabella Griffiths spoke to Grimsey and outlines his suggestions below.

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“

ithout wanting to sound patronising, Mary Portas’ review was an O-level report, whereas our review is a degree – just a BA degree, because we didn’t have time to turn it into an MA or PHD, but it goes far deeper than the Portas Review,” says Bill Grimsey, the man leading the eponymous alternative review of the high street, when WWB caught up with him just a few days before the official launch of his paper, which was presented during a parliamentary reception in the House of Commons earlier this month.

Grimsey has gathered a team of retail experts – including independent retailer and industry commentator Paul Turner-Mitchell; Chris Shellard, public sector regeneration expert; Eva Pascoe, technology expert; Sid Vasili, entrepreneur and financial expert; Matthew Hopkinson, research expert and MD of the Local Data Company; and Nick Hood, risk analyst – to present a different set of propositions to the government and the other political parties than Mary Portas, whose review two years ago he blasts as “a lot of fluff and superficial stuff” and as having given people “false hope”. “The government wanted to be seen to be doing something, so they appointed a celebrity such as Mary Portas, but she’s not a retailer and she just wanted a TV series out of it. This has completely made light of a serious issue,” he says. “There are opportunities to invigorate the high street, but it needs a proper framework, which is something the Portas Review failed to deliver. It’s all well and good having town teams, and many of them have enthusiastic people, but you can’t run this without a structure and long-term strategy. And it certainly won’t be achieved by wheeling out Chas ’n’ Dave ,” he quips in reference to the Portas series, which featured the crooners in an episode about the regeneration of Margate . It’s needless to say that his outspokenness has lead to a public slanging match between himself and Portas, who retaliated by saying Grimsey should “stop playing politics” and that she stood by her findings.

Grimsey clearly feels well placed to be giving advice on retail

issues, having started out in retail aged 15 and having worked for the likes of Bishops, Budgens, Tesco, ParknShop in Hong Kong, Wickes, Iceland and Focus DIY. “I’ve had a 45-year career in retail,” says Grimsey, who funded the report and research, which was conducted over the last three months, himself. “I’m 62, and I want to keep my brain stimulated rather than just playing golf three times a week. I want to use my time meaningfully and give something back.”

The Grimsey Review puts a rethinking of the high street at its core, arguing that there are too many shops and that 20,000 more are teetering on the brink of collapse. His suggestion is that high streets need to become community hubs that encompass housing, leisure, education, arts and crafts, as well as “some shops”, with technology at the core, responding to the changed consumer habits due to the rise of online. It also tackles issues such as business rates, parking and town-centre planning, and suggests the appointment of a high-street minister, recruited from the retail sector, to make the high-street issue a priority on the political agenda.

Asked how shops can adapt to survive in a “networked high street”, Grimsey says, “What makes shops successful is and has always been the same: you need to have the right product at the right price at the right time, this has never changed and never will. What needs to be changing and what we are suggesting in our report is the methodology and channel of how retailers sell.”

It remains to be seen whether the Grimsey Review will make a significant impact, but Grimsey himself is determined to keep up the pace. “I can’t predict whether the government will listen, but at least I have done my bit,” he says. “What happens from here, I don’t know, but I’m happy to offer my expertise and continue to raise the issues.”

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11 WOMENSWEAR BuyER — SEPTEMBER 2013

REPORT — 13. Local authorities to use a proportion of their reserves to offer loans to qualifying small businesses.

14. Understand the success of the Bank of Dave set-up and establish a process, including local crowdfunding, for local people to collectively invest in the local community and start-up businesses.

15. Connect planning applications to the business plan for each town and ensure that developments fit within the criteria set.

16. Enable the change of use process to be used to convert entire sub high streets to residential or other uses within the agreed high-street plan and relocate the successful independent retailers into the main commercial centre.

17. Make it easier for motorists to shop by building in a two-hour free high-street and town-centre car-parking system to the overall business plan for the location.

18. Local authorities to freeze car-parking charges for a minimum of 12 months.

COMMuNITy FIRST

The 31 recommendations of the Grimsey Review: MAKING THE TRANSITION 1. Accept that there is too much retail space in the UK and that bricks-and-mortar retailing can no longer be the anchor to create thriving high streets and town centres.

2. Set an objective to repopulate high streets and town centres as community hubs encompassing more housing, education, arts, entertainment, business/office space, health and leisure – and some shops.

3. Establish a Town Centre Commission for each town with a defined skill base and structure to build a 20-year vision for each town supported by a broad business plan in five-year chunks.

4. Require local authorities to hold a public meeting annually to present the 20-year vision, town-centre plans and progress made in the year, supported by an annual progress report.

5. Prepare for a “wired town” or “networked high streets” that puts libraries and other public spaces at the centre of each community based on the technology that exists today and will develop in the future.

6. Establish a Digital Maturity Demographic Profile for each town to prepare for networked high street, and tailor connection and communication strategies accordingly.

CREATING A FAIRER, MORE ECONOMICALLy SuSTAINABLE HIGH STREET 7. Reintroduce immediately the 2015 business rates revaluation to realign property values and freeze business rates from 2014.

8. Once revaluations have taken place, any future increases should be an annualised CPI rate rather than a one-month snapshot.

9. From 2017, revaluations must be conducted annually.

10. Any business occupying a retail property in the retail core of a town centre that has been vacant for 12 months should receive 50 per cent rate relief for two years.

11. There must be a political will and determination to reduce property taxation once the government’s fiscal debt consolidation plans have been fully implemented.

12. The business rates system needs a root and branch review to establish a flexible system that will reflect changes in economic conditions as they occur.

19. Reduce mandatory rate relief for charities from 80 per cent to 70 per cent and, of the remaining 30 per cent payable in business rates, apportion a third to a ring-fenced local authority pot for projects that benefit the community.

20. Establish greater clarity on the mandatory rate-relief criteria for charities, social enterprises and Community Interest Companies.

Organisations whose primary function is to exist for the benefit of the local community – ie hospice shops – should be given priority status for top-up relief from local authorities.

21. Landlords of empty shop units should be required to apply for a change of use and make the asset productive in the community as housing, health, leisure, culture or education facilities in line with the town plan.

22. Make it compulsory for all Mega Mall developments to create a percentage of affordable space within the developments for local traders and market stall pitches.

23. Evaluate the future of out-of-town shopping parks, and prepare a plan to bring unwanted space back into use to benefit the community.

24. The Community Infrastructure Levy should be used to support the delivery of a town-centre plan.

BETTER MANAGED HIGH STREETS 25. Put in place common key performance indicators to measure the economic health of each town, and link the reporting through a data dashboard to provide independent, objective and current data on performance.

26. Create a full-time high streets minister to replace the current part-time position that is tagged on to the duties of housing minister.

Encourage greater cross-departmental work between BIS and DCLG to fully understand shared government responsibilities for helping improve local high streets.

27. Establish a comprehensive evidence base that tracks the change in retail and leisure locations from a local, regional and national perspective.

Actively encourage and fund research based on this data by academic institutions in partnership with the private sector in order to ensure ongoing thought leadership into the nature and reasons behind changes taking place.

28. Ensure that the economic blueprints produced by Town Commissions are sustainable and environmentally practical by understanding and emulating innovation from Transition Town trials, for example.

29. Make it compulsory for national retail and leisure chains to invest 0.25 per cent of one year’s sales (2014) into a local economic development fund to sponsor local start-up businesses in a similar way to the Prince’s Trust. This would be a one-off levy.

30. Implement the Town Centre Commission process through five trials to test the methodology, information requirements, modeling techniques and viability of the whole process including public consultation.

31. A timetable should be set to conduct the trials by March 2014 and aim to exit 2014 with plans, measures and central technology in place for all town centres for implementation from 2015 onwards.

What do you think of the Grimsey Review? Do you agree or disagree with the points and recommendations raised?

E-mail Isabella@ras-publishing.com with your opinions.

12 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

PEOPLE —

BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear —

DRESS TO IMPRESS? — One fifth of women in the UK have admitted to making more effort to dress up for the weekly supermarket shop than they do for a date, a poll by footwear etailer Zalando.co.uk has revealed.

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RAYNE RELAUNCHES AT SELFRIDGES BRITISH HERITAGE FOOTWEAR LABEL RAYNE HAS RELAUNCHED AT SELFRIDGES WITH AN EXCLUSIVE POP-UP AT THE LUXURY STORE. THE BRAND – ONCE WORN BY HISTORY’S MOST ICONIC WOMEN SUCH AS ELIZABETH TAYLOR, VIVIEN LEIGH AND THE QUEEN – HAS BEEN BROUGHT BACK TO LIFE BY PARISIAN SHOE DESIGNER LAURENCE DACADE, READY TO ATTRACT A BRAND NEW AUDIENCE FOR THE LABEL, WHICH STARTED OUT IN 1885 AS A THEATRICAL SHOE BRAND. THE LABEL’S QUIRKY DESIGNS WILL ALSO BE AVAILABLE FOR WHOLESALE FOR S/S 14.

DR MARTENS CROWNS STREET STYLE ICON British footwear label Dr Martens recently held a competition to find Brighton’s most stylish Docs wearer, coinciding with the opening of its new store in the beachside town on Prince Albert Street in The Lanes.

The worthy winner was local student Lottie Moore (pictured), who fought off stiff competition and won £300 worth of Dr Martens shoes, accessories and clothing.

Moore was snapped by one of Dr Martens’ style hunters wearing pink Dr Martens from the Made in England range, teamed with a grey jumper dress and oversized denim jacket.

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The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge are topping the list of most fashionable new parents, with Kate having been named the best “fashion icon mum” by fashion discount website Fashionperks.co.uk.

William came top as “best dressed celebrity Dad” in a poll by men’s clothing and advice website Socked.co.uk.

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High-end retailer goes street Julian Blades (pictured centre), co-founder of luxury store Jules B, has joined the board of directors at street and sportswear indie Capology with the aim of assisting the store’s planned e-commerce growth. Capology was founded last year by Olly Henderson and brothers John and Greg Hall and has seen significant growth via its online channel, www.capology.co.uk, with plans to rapidly grow the e-commerce arm further.

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CARNABY STREET CELEBRATES MUSIC HERITAGE Carnaby Street is hosting a new art and music project throughout September and October, to celebrate 10 decades of music in the area.

Carnaby Echoes traces its music heritage, from one of the first jazz clubs in London opening in 1913 on Beak Street to Kanye West and John Legend at Deal Real record shop in 2004 and beyond. A free downloadable app and website featuring audio and film interviews will be available, while a free interactive exhibition will run until 20 October.

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14 WOMENSWEAR BuyER — SEPTEMBER 2013

OPINION —

TALKING POINT Key industry players give their views on the issue that affect womenswear.

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SO MuCH TO DO, SO LITTLE TIME TO DO IT IN

THE WAy TO FASHION ExCITEMENT – DON’T GET STuCK IN A RuT

How on earth did we reach September so fast? Has someone pressed the fast-forward pedal but forgotten to release it? Still, as we all know when it comes to running an indie store, there is no time to sit around and look pretty.

Following a freezing spring and boiling summer, retailers have to take it in their stride that business is not created just by the weather, but also by what we do in our own stores.

New to our ever-growing list of things to do is our new transactional website. To be honest, I procrastinated on this issue for some time for a couple of reasons. Firstly, I still believe there is no substitute for shopping in-store and taking your gorgeous purchase home on the day. However, as we all know, millions are regularly clothes shopping online and, for various reasons, this may be by choice or their only option. Therefore I felt it was time to bite the bullet, face my fears with regard to offering an online service and get on with it.

Another concern of mine is whether we will be able to give the customer the same level of personal service that they would receive in-store? Or, is the expectation from online consumers different from that of a customer shopping in a bricks-and-mortar scenario? Finally, the entire process of building a transactional website was daunting, even with my super-talented web designer guiding me all the way because, for many like myself, who where born in a different generation, you might as well be talking in Latin.

However, I am now relieved to say that a new member of staff has joined my team who not only understands Latin but is also going to oversee the entire running of the website, which will leave me free to concentrate on all the other aspects of the business.

For us it remains to be seen if this will be a successful route to market, however, hopefully this time next year we will have a much clearer view of how successful this project has been. In the meantime, with own label, merchandising, website, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, Instagram, planning in-store events, interviewing, staff training, styling sessions, paperwork, accounts, budgets and my beloved shop floor keeping me busy, there’s no wonder I hadn’t noticed September is here already. Of course, none of this is possible without a great team of people to encourage, guide and brainstorm all aspects and ideas, so I’m going to add team building to the list.

It’s suddenly occurred to me that the someone out there with the foot on the fast-forward pedal is me. Ah well, no time to stand and stare because I’m late for my first appointment. Better crack on...

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In the hot months of July and August we were offering chilled water with lemon and mint, and customers were popping in and loving that simple gesture of hospitality. We created the rail of the day, where we would showcase new garments that had just arrived, and the summer sale was kept co-ordinated and appealing.

But the biggest push forward at James Lakeland is to keep customer loyalty – to go the extra mile and give the customer what she wants, to shorten a garment and get it to her for the next day, and everything else that includes a level of service which the high street does not provide.

As I said in my presentation at last month’s Moda, where I was one of the speakers, to communicate via social media is imperative if you want to move forward with your business. Remind the customers you are here, put your favourite pieces of the day on your Twitter, Instagram or Facebook account and, most importantly, remind yourself that customers don’t just come off the street, but come in for a reason. Customers are habitual, but also want to be excited when they are shopping. Linking up with local magazines and newspapers to create events is a must. I once attended an extremely successful fashion show where every customer got a goody bag with cosmetics, vouchers and loyalty card. It made the customers feel special and more importantly they enjoyed the event.

Everyone is looking for a positive distraction when shopping.

Don’t get stuck in a rut, brainstorm with your staff, and make small changes on the shop floor and in merchandising.

Everything moves on and, if we do not follow suit, the offer becomes staid and boring. The most successful retailers have to take risks and make changes while keeping their core customers happy.

There is always a changeover as customers move away, their lifestyle changes and so on, so we must attract other customers.

On a closing note, I suggest that you make an objectives schedule: to develop communication via social media; to have a customer loyalty account, which had targets silver, gold and VIP members; to create stronger relationships with the brands you buy and organise special events and workshops; focus on your core customer and develop top quality service.

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Pamela Shiffer, owner of Pamela Shiffer, London

James Lakeland, owner, James Lakeland

COME OUT AND PLAY

For trade enquiries and for the new SS14 brochure, call 0844 811 2322

regatta.com

16 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

INTERVIEW —

Q&A

Kat Maconie — THE FOUNDER AND DESIGNER OF THE EPONYMOUS FOOTWEAR LABEL TELLS ISABELLA GRIFFITHS WHAT RECENT INVESTMENT WILL MEAN FOR THE FUTURE OF THE LABEL AND HOW SHE HAS MANAGED SUCH A STRONG MARKET PRESENCE IN JUST FOUR YEARS SINCE THE LAUNCH. —

17 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

Isabella Griffiths: You recently received funding from investment firm Pembroke VCT – what does this mean for your label and its development?

Kat Maconie: It’s a great opportunity to take the business forward and on to the next level.

I launched the label four years ago and, since then, everything has been pretty much self-funded, so there have been obvious limits to how far and fast I could develop the brand.

But, with the funding, we are now able to focus on key development areas such as further international growth, expansion of the product range, our sales and marketing activities as well as the relaunch of our e-commerce platform with a much slicker and user-friendly look and navigation. The site is currently relatively basic, but we’re relaunching later this month and it will be a much more interactive experience, with blogs and different features, and overall an easy shopping process. It’s an exciting time.

IG: Apart from the e-commerce side, your distribution is focused on wholesale. What is the current status quo in terms of UK and global distribution?

KM: We have had huge growth internationally; our export sales make up 70 per cent of the business and we are represented in 16 countries. Brazil has been a particularly strong market for us, because I manufacture there and have been lucky enough to have found a great factory that produces my brand under licence for the Brazilian market. But our focus is also on the Middle East and the US. We’ve just gone into Anthropology in the US, and are about to launch in Nasty Gal, which are obviously great accounts to be in. In the UK, we are currently in around 20 accounts, including the likes of Poste Mistress, Anthropology UK and Zalando. Most of these accounts are based around London, though, and I want to focus on developing a good network of stockists outside of London and across the rest of the UK, because there is still so much development and growth potential.

Ultimately, I want Kat Maconie to become a

INTERVIEW —

“I REALLY WANT TO FOCUS ON DEVELOPING A GOOD NETWORK OF STOCKISTS OUTSIDE OF LONDON AND ACROSS THE REST OF THE UK, BECAUSE THERE IS STILL SO MUCH DEVELOPMENT AND GROWTH POTENTIAL”

household name and be in every relevant store in the world.

IG: You launched the label four years ago, and it quickly established a strong presence in the market as well as within the fashion press. To what do you attribute this quick success?

KM: I think the main thing is that the price points are good. I’ve been conscious about keeping the range affordable from the start; our retail prices are roughly alongside those of Kurt Geiger, ranging from £150 to £230.

The styles are design-led but at entry-level price points, and I think that has certainly played a role in the success. Also, I put a lot of emphasis on comfort and wearability. I don’t want anyone to buy the shoes and they then can’t walk in them or just keep them for special occasions. My styles are quirky but for everyday use. I’ve been lucky that I managed to establish a clear brand identity from the start, and consumers seem to respond to that.

I think another factor has been that I have worked very hard on establishing a presence in the market – I didn’t have huge marketing budgets or anything, but I made sure that I have been at pretty much every relevant trade show, and just out there, getting to know the industry and becoming known, even if it meant having the smallest stand somewhere.

Most brands would have probably opted for fewer shows and more impressive stands, but I just wanted to be out there, and it seems to have paid off.

IG: What is your signature and who do you target?

KM: My styles are all about comfort, and fusing fashion with function, so block heels and a padded insole are a signature of my designs. There is a lot of detail and colour, too, and this has all formed the identity of the brand. I mainly target city girls between 25 and 40 at the core who want to be stylish but also want affordable shoes that they can wear every day and buy another pair and another pair. I don’t want to become an

investment buy that leaves them so out of pocket that they can’t buy anything again. I want them to have fun with the styles and make them a wardrobe staple.

IG: What inspires you?

KM: Anything and everything. I can be in B&Q looking at random metal pieces and it might spark an idea, or at an antiques fair or vintage market – lots of different things. I don’t start with a traditional mood board like other designers perhaps, but I just use my inspiration and see where it takes me.

IG: You launched in the midst of the recession after leaving a secure job in fashion recruitment. That was brave – did you ever have any doubts?

KM: I suppose looking back it does seem a bit crazy, but I never looked at it that way. I guess you can’t have doubts, otherwise you would never start. I just went for it. I enrolled in evening classes in shoe design at the London College of Fashion while working full-time, and eventually left the job to pursue the label.

The biggest challenge, to be honest, has been finding a good manufacturer and someone who takes you seriously when you’re new to the business.

IG: What have been the key milestones for you and the label so far?

KM: Being stocked in Selfridges was quite a big deal, and now obviously the investment, which is a significant development. I have recently been invited to join David Cameron on a trade delegation to Brazil to promote trade between the UK and Brazil due to my licensing partnership there, and accompany him to a number of high-profile events across the country. I will also be attending a UKTI-sponsored trip to Shanghai in October to Micam Shanghai alongside nine other UK companies. All of this is a huge honour and quite momentous for such a relatively young brand like mine.

INFORMATION – Kat Maconie was established in 2009 by the eponymous designer.

– Prior to that, Maconie worked in product development for Whistles and later in fashion recruitment while undertaking evening footwear design classes at the London College of Fashion.

– The brand recently received a first round of investment from Pembroke VCT, a venture capital trust founded by serial entrepreneur Peter Dubens, to invest in early stage consumer-facing businesses.

– The funds will be used to accelerate international growth, develop the collections further and invest in sales, marketing and e-commerce.

18 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

FASHION —

STYLE FILE The hottest brands not to miss this month —

▲ ULTIMATE PROTECTION Shoe treatment spray Crep Protect is taking the footwear and fashion industry by storm thanks to its invisible coating that guarantees to repel any liquids and stains from shoes. Whether leather, suede, nubuck or canvas, Crep Protect promises to create an invisible barrier, beading liquids to reduce stain and dirt deposits. It’s stocked in Bank, JD and Footasylum and is being picked up by indies up and down the country, too.

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▲

SOCIAL ARISTOCRACY

STYLE FLASH — Beautiful Bottoms has created a stylish range of silk pyjamas and lingerie, perfect to lounge around in this winter. www.beautifulbottoms.com —

▲ WORKING THE LOOK Lee Cooper’s s/s 14 collection draws heavily from its roots as one of the original British denim labels and its working class heritage, with key products referencing artisans, craftsmen and dandy market traders. The results are playful prints, relaxed silhouettes and denims with an understated vintage feel.

STYLE FLASH — — Eco fashion label Sara C’s Recently relaunched collection Floraison is inspired by the designer’s trips across casuals brand England. Each garment is Gymphlex individually handmade in Britain using eco-friendly has created a processes and fabrics such British-designed as cupro and silk.

— range of his ’n’ hers styles with a clean, crisp feel, masculine silhouettes and a relaxed aesthetic.

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Australian label Wheels & Dollbaby is offering up another ultra glamorous and edgy range, aptly titled Social Aristocracy. The seasonal print features chandeliering floral motifs with vibrant and bright colours, while figure-hugging corsets, pencil skirts and dresses are central pieces in the collection.

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The indigo five-pocket denim is the foundation of Edwin’s latest range and comes in a variety of washes, fabrics and treatments.

Also look out for Hawaiian fabrics and exlusive Edwin camouflage patterns.

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Socks de luxe

For luxurious socks made in England, look no further than Perilla, which specialises in fine hosiery using high-grade Peruvian alpaca, which is second only to silk in strength and just as soft but more durable than cashmere. The socks are produced in four English factories, and each one is hand-finished, resulting in high-quality socks with a soft and comfortable feel.

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21 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

STOCK UPDATE —

THE 10 BEST

MONOCHROME 01

Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale

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STYLE TIP — Black and white is a classic mix, but can look drab when just combined as colour blocks.

Buy into pieces that have lots of interest, such as patterns, houndstooth, monochrome florals or animal prints.

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STYLE TIP — Don’t just stick to ready-to-wear – a well-chosen accessory in black and white such as footwear, hair accessories or even a chic brolly will interpret the trend just as well.

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Monochromes will not only be big news for s/s 14, they have already permeated every area of fashion for a/w 13. If you have missed out on buying into the look, fear not, as WWB puts together some key pieces available to get in-store now.

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01 Neon Rose, £9,20, 0161 235 5289 02 Selected Femme, £11.66, 020 7650 2040 03 Lavish Alice, £11, 0161 839 8821 04 Yas, £20, 020 7650 2040 05 Motel, £14.60, 0161 235 5289

06 Yumi, £38, 020 7636 9484 07 Ingenue, £32, 020 7978 2038 08 Blooming Brollies, £9.50, 01423 341000 09 Neon Rose, £10, 0161 235 5289 10 Moliabal, from £10.50, 07976 968672

22 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

FASHION —

FASHION RADAR The hottest brands to look out for right now —

SAINT KIDD

GWYNEDDS

The brainchild of McFly bassist Dougie Poynter, Saint Kidd offers a range of tees and vests that are a platform for emerging British design talent.

The German casual lifestyle brand has expanded its collection with the introduction of summer denim pieces for s/s 14 and more premium loungewear and basics.

Established: 2011

Established: 2007

Signature style: T-shirts and vests emblazoned with reworked nautical motifs with a punky edge.

Signature style: Luxurious wardrobe essentials made from ultra soft and comfortable fabrics.

The inspiration behind the brand is the story of a pirate named William Kidd. Founded by Dougie Poynter of McFly fame, the brand aims to become not just a fashion label, but also an artistic collective for emerging design talent who can leave their mark with raw and edgy creations and playful prints such as cut glass brandishing, a stump-legged kitten with an eye-patch, a selection of winged creatures as well as reinterpreted nautical motifs. The target customers are trendy East London types between 20 and 30 years of age, with wholesale prices ranging between £7 to £15. The brand is currently only available through its own website, but is making a wholesale move this season, looking to establish itself in indie boutiques who share the same young, trendy and edgy ethic.

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A relaxed “LA feel” with easy-to-wear pieces is at the core of Gwynedds. The German brand has been building a loyal global following since it was launched in 2007 and counts celebrities such as athlete Victoria Pendleton, singer Kimberley Walsh and reality star Sam Faiers among its customers. The brand is known for its pre-washed jersey basics and premium loungewear, featuring an array of rompers and playsuits, sheer blouses, relaxed trousers and shorts as well as cropped tops. Sitting alongside the likes of CC California, Free City and Wildfox, Gwynedds is stocked in boutiques such as Spoiled Brat, Chi Chi and Miss Couture and is looking to broaden its stockist base further. For s/s 14 the brand has expanded its selection of wardrobe staples with the introduction of its first summer denim range, consisting of army and boyfriend-cut shirts, shorts and trousers. Wholesale prices range between £12 for tees and £120 for outerwear.

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24 WOMENSWEAR BuyER — SEPTEMBER 2013

PROFILE —

THE BAG LADY After years of creating exclusive bags for global luxury brands, handbag designer Tissa Fontaneda took the plunge and launched her own eponymous label. Her signature of “classic luxury with a modern twist” has since gained followers across the world, with the UK taking increasing notice of her original designs.

Isabella Griffiths chatted to the designer about her unconventional route into fashion and what she has in store for the brand.

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T

issa Fontaneda is bubbly and chatty when WWB catches the designer in her Madrid studio. The founder of the eponymous label has good reason to be happy thanks to the brand’s increasingly high profile across the globe.

The “Bubble bag” has become her signature, unique in its design and treatment of leather. It is produced using a lengthy and complex steaming technique, causing the leather to bubble, which means only 5,000 can be produced each year. The bag is lightweight and timeless in its elegance, and has opened up doors in some of the most prestigious stores worldwide. “It’s funny that the Bubble bag has become so recognisable – or, shall I say, slightly annoying in a way, because people have started to copy it,” says Fontaneda.

“But I’m not too worried, it’s not something that can be replicated easily,” she continues. “It has taken two years of trials with my extremely skilled manufacturer to perfect the technique. I wanted to create something special, and I couldn’t have done it without them [the manufacturer]. It’s a special way of production that uses steam and needs a certain temperature – if it’s too high or low it gets stiff or floppy, so it is quite unique to my brand.”

Fontaneda came to accessory design by accident, having originally studied at the University of Turin in Italy for a Phd in philosophy and literature, with ambitions to become a journalist. But, after graduation, the German-born designer moved first to Paris and then Austria, where she became a design assistant at Swarovski under Rosemarie Le Gallais and Hervé Léger. Five years later, she relocated to Madrid, to fashion house Loewe, where she developed handbags.

Later, when Loewe was integrated into the LVMH Group, she became head of product under Narciso Rodriguez, working also across Cartier, Dunhill, Connolly and Louis Vuitton. “I worked with people who had an amazing know-how about leather,” she says. “They were real craftsmen and artisans, and it has influenced the way I work with leather and how I feel about it. I absolutely adore it.”

Fontaneda’s bags may be exclusive, but she’s made a point of making them wearable and suitable for everyday life. “My bags are elegant and classic, because that is also my personal style,” she says.

“But, at the same time, I’m quite a sporty dresser, and this is reflected in my bags. In essence, I aim the bags at independent women who like quality and luxury and are confident in their style. I’m not a fan of all

25 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

PROFILE —

Tissa Fontaneda

those IT girls. It’s hard to put an age on my customers but, because there’s a certain price tag attached to the bags, I would say the age range usually starts at around 30. Saying that, my 16-year-old daughter and all her friends love my bags, too, which is nice, and proves that they are, in a way, ageless.”

Worldwide, Tissa Fontaneda is stocked in around 50 accounts, with very controlled distribution. “As a rule, I don’t sell to websites,” says Fontaneda. “There’s only Cavan.com, which we are represented through online but, other than that, I feel strongly that the brand should only be available in specialist boutiques. I had to part company with stockists before who put the bags up on their websites without my permission. Over distribution can so easily destroy a brand. You’ve got to be in control of your brand, image and distribution.”

Fontaneda launched to the UK in 2007, her first export market outside of Spain, and currently has 12 stockists, including Gallery 28, Wolf & Badger, The Dorchester Shop, Fluidity F2, Alcatraz and Philomena, and she has a special affinity for British buyers and the UK fashion scene. “I was lucky enough to have been discovered for the UK by Fortnum & Mason, and it went from there,” says Fontaneda. “I’ve been showing at Scoop for the past few seasons, and without the show we wouldn’t have the quality of stockists we have. The British just get the brand; they love leather and appreciate true craftsmanship, which is why we have been so well received there,” she says, revealing she would like to expand her stockist base further, in particular to outside of London, where the majority of her stockists are concentrated.

Fontaneda has been continuously developing the collection and, in addition to the Bubble bag in an array of colours, there are

“Accessories are fundamental. A bit like a car, it’s a staple. Nowadays, people can dress well on a budget – they might wear cheap jeans and a T-shirt, but accessories will make and transform the outfit” also clutch bags, purses, iPhone holders, body bags, satchels and the “mini bubble”. She’s also started experimenting with necklaces and bracelets made from leather and horn. “I’ve developed the range a lot, however I don’t change the collection every season,” she says. “Many of the styles are classics and my staples, so they are staying, and I update maybe two or three extra styles a season.” Going forward, her ambition is to experiment more with other textures and materials and to extend the range beyond the Bubble. Though, undoubtedly, it will remain at the core of the collection.

It’s clear that Fontaneda’s relationship with leather and handbags is a love affair, and she feels passionately about the role of accessories in a woman’s wardrobe. “Accessories are fundamental,” she says. “A bit like a car, it’s a staple. Nowadays, people can dress well on a budget – they might wear cheap jeans and a T-shirt, but accessories make and transform the outfit. A handbag is timeless, ageless and suits women of any size; it’s an essential. The global economic crisis has affected most sectors of the industry, but accessories have fared relatively well because they offer a different kind of value. They are here to stay.”

26 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

MODA FOOTWEAR —

SOLE TO SOLE YOUR ESSENTIAL EDIT OF THE SPRING/SUMMER 2014 TRENDS DIRECT FROM LAST MONTH’S MODA FOOTWEAR. —

Photographs: Ben Statham 07855 471388 Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale

27 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

MODA FOOTWEAR —

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MONOCHROME Black and white is dominating the ready-to-wear collections, so it’s no surprise that it has also trickled down to footwear. The focus is especially on wedges and block heels, which have become the platform for chevron and abstract patterns carrying this trend.

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Bourbon, £31.99, 0035 3429743219 Dolcis, £10.99, 01706 212512 Peter Kaiser, £129, 0049 6331716130 Marco Tozzi, price on request, 0049 523160501 Gerry Weber, £50, 01603 307860

28 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

MODA FOOTWEAR —

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DELUXE TRAINERS Ever since Isabel Marant launched the wedge trainer, sporty sneakers have had a fashion moment. This season continues in this vein and, though we’ve moved on from the concealed wedge, trainers get the glam factor with metallic features, rhinestones, studs and snakeskin effects.

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Pastry, £25.65, 0035 3875996577 Mjus, €37.45, 07935 648070 Bronx, £39.10, 0031 416562600 Geox, price on request, 020 3227 0502 Mustang, £18.75, 07974 155274

29 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

MODA FOOTWEAR —

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Espadrille wedges are the must-have shoe for s/s 14 and work as casual or dressier styles. From maritime-inspired stripes through pretty bows to quirky wedge detailing, there is plenty to choose from.

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Wrangler, £20.50, 07775 435011 Escape, £16.99, 0035 3429743219 Rocket Dog, £20.83, 020 7380 8340 Vanilla Moon, £18.95, 01536 310447 XTI, price on request, 0034 96818313 Vidoretta, price on request, 0034 965681200

30 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

MODA FOOTWEAR —

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MOCCASINS Moccasins continue to play a big part for s/s 14, and the focus for the season is on colour. From vibrant corals through blues and greens to tans and metallic treatments, there is a style to suit every taste.

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Wrangler, £20.50, 07775 435011 Lisa Kay, £39.80, 01923 800081 Riva, £27.99, 01452 727300 Lunar, price on request, 01670 716878 Ravel, £18, 01706 212512 Tamaris, £15.50, 0049 5231605129

32 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

FOOTWEAR NEWS —

HOT ON THE HEELS WWB sums up the footwear brands offering a wealth of innovation and developments for s/s 14.

— CAMEL ACTIVE The focus at Camel Active this season is the “vintage forester” look. Retro-inspired styles are therefore at the centre of the collection, which favours minimalist and clean lines and an emphasis on features such as perforations, welt seams and contrasting soles. The direction remains casual, with many of the key men’s footwear styles reinterpreted in a feminine manner.

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MODA IN PELLE Moda in Pelle’s collection features pointed courts in bold snake leathers, leather gladiators, chic wedges, embroidered slippers and statement shoes. The colour schemes takes inspiration from vibrant carnivals, while glam metallic sportswear is also referenced.

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O’NEILL It’s the second full footwear collection from Californian surfwear brand O’Neill, and it offers up two main themes – an urban direction with clean lines and inlaid construction, as well as a more exotic story, with a vibrant colour palette and prints inspired by beach life and South America.

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33 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

FOOTWEAR NEWS —

J SHOES The women’s collection at J Shoes is more refined for s/s 14, with new wooden heels the design focus. A lace-up peep silhouette with floral embossed resin sole features, while flats such as hand-stitched moccasins, low ankle Chelsea boots or premium ballerina pumps also form part of the collection.

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SOL SANA On-trend design and wearability are the ethos of Australian label Sol Sana, which delivers on this promise with a versatile and edgy collection that references the key themes of the season.

Bold silhouettes complemented by solid block hues, floral prints and metallic colourings are key, while classic monochrome styles also stand out. Metallic leathers and a sports-luxe theme are among the main trends in the range.

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SUPERGA

AIGLE Country summer homes have been the inspiration for Aigle’s s/s 14 footwear range, which translates into a chic colour palette of spicy tones such as carmine red, paprika and cumin, mixed with topaz, slate blues, jade and lavender. The brand’s signature wellies feature once again, and sit alongside boat shoes and moccasins, clogs, canvas sneakers and sandals.

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Superga has introduced its latest development for s/s 14, a range of sneakers that only weigh 80g.

The Superlights collection comes in a variety of colours and materials, and the secret of its extra-light weight lies in the sole, which is made of Phylon, a strong and durable foam that also provides a good level of cushioning and traction on all surfaces.

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34 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

FOOTWEAR NEWS —

COCOROSE

RAVEL

Folding ballerina specialist Cocorose is debuting a full UK shoe size range this season, as opposed to its current petit, regular and grande sizing. The collection once again offers a wealth of ballerina styles, with on-trend slippers, shoes and new colourways and materials thrown in for s/s 14.

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At Ravel you will find giant floral blooms, platforms in oversized prints and sleek stilettos all sitting alongside each other. The range is also complemented by kitsch-style flats and block heels in burnished tones. Candy coloured pointed-toe court shoes and minimalist stiletto sandals round-off the range.

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SEVEN BOOT LANE Seven Boot Lane has gone back to its Somerset roots and brought a touch of bohemia into its latest range, inspired by a free-spirited way of life. This can be seen in perforated materials and cut-out patterns that span the collection, which focuses mainly on boots.

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AUSTRALIA LUXE For s/s 14, Australia Luxe is launching Luxclusive, a premium range of handcrafted footwear styles such as brogues, ballet flats, wedges, ranch boots and wedged running sneakers.

The colour scheme stretches from metallics through camouflage shades and prints to white, while treatments include cracked patent and waxed leathers.

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THIERRY RABOTIN Kid suede and lambskin nappa are prominent features at Thierry Rabotin this season and form the basis for many designs. Look out for wide, double-strap sandals and effortless thongs with moulded foot beds and easy-to-wear platforms, sling backs on low wedge heels, softly rounded pumps, as well as mules featuring solid square-toe shapes, which are all among the key styles.

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www.crimsonandclover.co.uk

Spanish brand Menbur have been manufacturing beautiful footwear since 1967, in leathers, silks & satins. Menbur offer a comprehensive range of bridal and occasion footwear, with matching bags, for brides, bridesmaids, mother of the bride and special occasion shoes for parties and proms.

Pitillos, the number one comfort footwear brand in Spain for over 18 years, selling 2 million pairs a year, is now available for the UK market.

Pitillos, manufactured in Spain are famous for their extreme comfort.

To view the range please contact Zara Woolfson on 07557 532248 or email at zara.woolfson@gmail.com Or visit our stand at the TARA FOOTWEAR SHOW, 22nd - 24th SEPTEMBER 2013, COPTHORNE TARA HOTEL, KENSINGTON

38 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

ACCESSORIES —

THE TREND: MOTIF JEWELLERY Whether it’s letters, slogans, animals, hearts, stars or even vegetables such as asparagus and mushrooms, this season’s jewellery takes its inspiration from everyday objects, making them fun and eye-catching. Look out for pendants, earrings, studs and bracelets, featuring quirky motifs.

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ALEX MONROE The latest collection at Alex Monroe is called Banquet and takes its inspiration from still-life paintings and baroque imagery.

Berries, pomegranates, peaches and asparagus also feature as motifs and come in the shape of charm-style necklaces, fine bracelets and delicate rings, alongside larger, more opulent pieces.

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ELINAVI Elinavi specialises in hand-painted accessories, which are mainly inspired by the designer’s Persian heritage and her degree in physics. Each piece is hand-painted with innovative techniques that allow for optical spectroscopy to be integrated.

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ENELLE Enelle is the brainchild of former stylist Nina Lamb, who wanted to create her own jewellery box full of pieces that are inspired by her travels through India and Indonesia. The collection therefore shows a distinctly Eastern direction, but with an understated finish.

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JACEY WITHERS Jacey Withers has become known for his ethereal jewellery, inspired by classic mythology and literature. And this season is no exception, with the collection aptly titled Talisman of the Lost, featuring birds of prey and wild animals made of gold, black gold and silver.

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LUCY FOLK Melbourne food jeweller Lucy Folk’s collection pays homage to pizza, presenting a medley of shapes and textures inspired by the Italian delicacy. Dough-like shapes feature alongside collar-shaped pepperoni neckpieces, dainty olive pips, crisp parsley leaves and anchovy straps, as well as pizzas in gold crusts and 3D ingredient embellishments.

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ZARA TAYLOR The mission of Zara Taylor is to create jewellery that will become treasured heirlooms, and her style is distinctly inspired by vintage finds and trinkets, which are used in her collection. Animals feature heavily throughout, with everything from caterpillars to squirrels forming the base for quirky bracelets, necklaces and rings.

—

39 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

ACCESSORIES —

THE TREND: FLUORO Bright, brighter, brightest – that’s the motto of the hottest trend of the season, with neons and fluorescent pieces having been spotted everywhere from high-fashion catwalks to the mainstream. Whether jewellery, handbags, belts or scarves, funky fluoros are a must this season.

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CABINET Luminous influences can be found at Cabinet, which has taken inspiration from mysterious organic life forms from the abyss. Chunky bracelets in fluoro brights sit alongside more dainty silver necklaces, which are contrasted with subtle neon details, making for a versatile and highly wearable collection.

—

KATE SHERIDAN Flashes of fluoro also take centre stage at Kate Sheridan, whose Made in England range offers up an array of styles from cute clutches through coin purses and totes to hold-alls.

Each is made from soft black Dakar Italian leather, but all have an added touch of neon lamb’s nappa.

—

MAISON SCOTCH Acid yellow has also been used at Maison Scotch, which has integrated beach brights into its accessories and ready-to-wear collections. This belt is among the highlights in the accessories range and is a perfect mix of black set against neon.

—

ZATCHELS The craze for satchels continues with ever-expanding treatments, colours, materials and graphics. And, of course, fluoros have left their mark on the must-have bag of the season, too. Zatchels is the perfect example, with a range of acid brights that are quirky and bang on-trend.

—

PASSIGATTI “Around the world in colours” is the topic of Passigatti’s collection this season, and indeed it does what it says on the tin. Summer brights feature heavily in the range, including a dip at funky neons, while paisleys, zebra prints and florals dominate the prints and graphics. Materials include modal, viscose, linen, cotton and silks.

—

EA BURNS EA Burns was launched by jewellery designer Lizzie Burns, who is advocating sustainable luxury. Burns specialises in the use of recycled silver and gold vermeil, and Rhodoid, a type of cotton derived from plastic. Abstract shapes are at the forefront of the collection, which is full of on-trend statement pieces.

—

40 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

ACCESSORIES —

THE TREND: SCARVES Scarves are going from strength to strength and have become a wardrobe staple that works season after season. Whether florals, abstract graphics or mystical creatures, in terms of prints and colours there is plenty to choose from for s/s 14.

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ALEXIA Alexia scarves have become known for the playful details and experimentation with layers, colours, fringes, zippers and jewelled embellishments, and the s/s 14 collection is no different. An array of prints and colour stories feature, with oversized scarves and luxurious ponchos key, perfect for beachside glamour.

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BECKSONDERGAARD Becksondergaard’s collection for s/s 14 offers a diversity of styles, with colour schemes ranging from summery brights to more demure and subtle shades. This dip-dye effect scarf in understated blue tones is among the highlights in the scarf range, while handbags and leather accessories such as iPhone and iPad cases also make up the selection.

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CRIMSON AND CLOVER Crimson and Clover is a new British brand founded in 2012. Its signature is a focus on bold colours and intricate prints, fusing trend influences with timeless style. The latest collection features a range of light scarves, as well as handmade and eveningwear styles.

Bespoke jewellery is also on offer.

—

EMMA J SHIPLEY The collection has been inspired by a South African safari trip, but reinterpreted in the designer’s typical style, featuring chained cheetahs, curious giraffes and zebra-unicorn hybrids, as well as fantastical birds. All designs are hand-drawn in graphite pencil by Shipley in her Hackney studio.

—

SUSANNAGH GROGAN Susannagh Grogan launched her eponymous scarf collection after 15 years working as a print designer for international design and high-street names. The printed scarf range has become synonymous with vibrant colours, modern design and hand-finished edges and details. This season’s line has also been extended to include bags and iPad/iPhone covers.

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TEXTILE FEDERATION Textile Federation is a design initiative that brings together creative talent from around the world to explore a story through print. The best designs are then selected and applied to visually strong garments. The scarf range is at the core of the brand’s USP, however it has also expanded to include ready-to-wear styles in a bid to become a true lifestyle offer.

—

41 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

ACCESSORIES —

THE TREND: STATEMENT JEWELLERY It’s all about making a statement this season, with elaborate and often oversized jewellery key. Whether it’s chunky bangles, intricately detailed XL rings, or necklaces that channel tribal and punk, the more unusual, the better.

—

INGENIOUS JEWELLERY Ingenious Jewellery specialises in hand-crafted sterling silver jewellery, plated with either 18-carat yellow or 18-carat rose gold and encrusted with cubic zirconia crystals. This season’s collection has been influenced by modern architecture and Art Deco with rich vegetal forms interwoven with complex geometric shapes.

—

JAMIE JEWELLERY Highlights in Jamie Jewellery’s collection include its signature stone-drop necklaces, wrap collars, tassel necklaces, hoop-drop stone earrings and wrap bracelets. The foundation of the range is gold and silver as well as beads and stones, with this season’s colour scheme centred around turquoise and pinks.

—

JOHN & PEARL After years of designing for other London brands, designer Julie Hannay took the plunge and created her own label, John & Pearl. With costume jewellery at its heart, the collection is fun, on-trend and bursting with colour, as this quirky choker proves.

—

KAT & BEE Kat & Bee is the creation of designer Kat Barry, whose handmade one-off pieces have been gaining a loyal following with customers looking for some eclectic and original statement styles. Designs range from quirky gothic through oversized to minimalist, with unusual fusions of beads and objects the brand’s signature.

—

OLIVIA BURTON Vintage-inspired watch brand Olivia Burton is going from strength to strength, and is once again serving up a quirky collection of watches with a playful, quintessentially British edge. Each style is made with luxurious leather, and features intricate motifs and detailing.

—

SAM UBHI The London jewellery designer is celebrating her 25-year anniversary this year. The collection has developed significantly since the early days, but its signature of unusual designs and mix of materials remains. Each range is inspired by Ubhi’s many travels, making for an eclectic mix of necklaces, bangles, cuffs, earrings and more.

—

44 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

REVIEW —

MODA WOM LAST MONTH’S MODA WOMAN BROUGHT TOGETHER THE KEY NAMES IN CONTEMPORARY WOMENSWEAR, WITH UK BRANDS SITTING ALONGSIDE MAJOR INTERNATIONAL NAMES AND NEW ENTRIES. WWB SUMS UP THE KEY TRENDS FROM THE SHOW. — AQUA > Deep blues and aqua came through as a colour scheme favoured by many labels, used either as block colours against turquoise and summery greens and blues, or incorporated into a backdrop of tonal prints.

— Apanage

James Lakeland

Mado et les Autres

FRUITY > Pink, coral and orange provided a welcome bright spark in the collections and were used across most garments. Standout pieces included vibrant light leather jackets, eye-catching trousers and stylish Macs in fruity shades.

— Latte

Marble

Marie Mero

Apanage

STRIPES > Stripes were everywhere this season and fitted perfectly into the monochrome trend of black and white. However, navy and white combinations were also found, with some even intercepting pink floral details into the styles.

— Steilmann

TURQUOISE > Also dominating the bright colour palette this season were turquoise and mint green, which provided a nice alternative to the pinks and oranges.

Whether printed dresses or quirky dip-dye look jeans, the colour theme was one of the most commercial trends of s/s 14.

—

Apanage

Apanage

Ariana

Bianca

Elisa Cavaletti

45 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

REVIEW —

AN MONOCHROME > Monochrome promises to hang around for s/s 14, if collections at the shows are anything to go by. Whether as stripes, squares or spots, there was enough interest in each garment to stand on its own, with brands playing with different graphics and textures.

— Mado et les Autres

Apanage

Elisa Cavaletti

James Lakeland

Ariana

Elisa Cavaletti

Mado et les Autres

Marble

Saskia

James Lakeland

Marble

Pomodoro

Steilmann

T Studio Therapy

Eva Tralala

Latte

Mado et les Autres

Marie Mero

Sathia

46 WOMENSWEAR BuyER wwb-online.co.uk — SEPTEMBER 2013

PROMOTION —

THE ESSENTIAL RESOURCE FOR THE WOMENSWEAR INDUSTRY. —

wwb-online.co. online.co.uk online.co. o.uk Wwb-online.co.uk is the essential free business tool, bringing you industry advice, up-to-the-minute news, insightful features and trend information at the click of a button.

From the team behind WWB magazine, the website covers every aspect of the womenswear industry. Frequently updated news across a broad range of topics will help you keep your finger on the pulse, while a variety of unique content that complements WWB’s comprehensive industry and style reports brings you rounded, in-depth knowledge and information. Brand spotlights, short-order specials and trend overviews are just some of the must-read features, all of which will aid your buying decisions and help enhance your in-store offer.

The Retail section provides further vital inspiration, covering everything from visual merchandising ideas to advice and suggestions from the brains behind some of the UK’s most successful independents. Articles in the People section focus on the movers and shakers across womenswear, to give you the inside track on what makes them tick and how they stay ahead of the game.

—

MAKE WWB-ONLINE.CO.uK yOuR DAILy SOuRCE OF ESSENTIAL FASHION INDuSTRy INFORMATION – IT’S ONLy A CLICK AWAy. — To advertise on wwb-online.co.uk call Mina on 01484 846069 or email Mina@ras-publishing.com

NEWS Industry news that’s relevant to you, from new launches to trading predictions and business reports.

— RETAIL Want to explore multi-channelling in order to drive sales, learn more about the latest market research or gain inspiration for visual merchandising? You’ll find it all here – and it could prove highly profitable.

— BRANDS Useful profiles of familiar favourites and up-and-coming brands alike, along with broader features on their evolution, strategy and direction.

— OPINION Read what the experts think about current and ongoing issues affecting the industry – their insights could prove invaluable to your business.

— FEATuRES Reports, interviews and brand profiles on the issues, industry figures and companies everyone wants to know about.

— PRODuCT Short-order stock, ranging from fashion and footwear to inspirational add-on product.

— EvENTS As well as previews and reviews, wwb-online.co.uk will keep you informed about the essential dates for your diary.

— BLOG WWB’s bloggers are passionate about the fashion industry and always have something interesting to say. Find out what’s getting them talking.

48 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

RETAIL DIARY The buying season and the trade shows – funny phenomena aren’t they? Each season we attend the travelling circus of the familiar and the foreign, having our barcodes scanned as we enter the magic circle; treasuring our anonymity as we size up the exhibition floor and stealthily scrutinise the collections.

— It’s the one occasion where we as retailers resemble our customers; a microcosm of the consumer retail world that we serve; another stage in the food chain of the fashion world.

Just as we find ladies shopping with a friend on the high street, we too often buy in pairs. No sooner has another customer remarked upon a strong style, then we find ourselves drawn towards its merits, too. A busy stand breeds a busier stand, reminding us of the days when our shop floor’s manageable activity snowballs into unmanageable chaos. Therefore, the trade shows are a mirror of commercial shopping environments and, as such, we can learn a lot from them besides the forthcoming trends.

Shopping is, as we well know, a social and emotional activity for the majority of women; retail “therapy” indeed. We find it stressful and yet enjoyable; we want to see what others are buying, but we also cherish our independence. As buyers, this can be exhausting and confusing, only compounded by the cabin-fever syndrome of the halls and the pressure of the decision-making.

This season – more than ever – we saw the benefit of engaging with the priceless gift of community which we, as buyers and FAB members, have at these events. At Moda and Pure we were able to de-brief, unwind and distil our ideas over a coffee in the FAB lounge.

After speaking on a panel session at Pure, we had a post-panel glass of wine in the lounge with a fellow panellist, and exchanged words of retail wisdom and woes. Before contributing to a seminar at Moda, I met with Samantha of Bella di Notte – also a FAB member – who shared some inspiring ideas from her own experience. I’ve never doubted the merits of a community such as FAB, but I’ve never been so sure of its value as I was at the shows this season. John Donne summed it up fabulously – “No man is an island, entire of itself; every man is a piece of the continent.”

Melissa Wheeler works with her mother, Vicki, at Ambiance of Colchester.

She is a committee member of the Fashion Association of Britain www.fashionassociationof britain.co.uk.

FORUM —

RETAIL FORUM

The latest news from the industry —

ONLINE STORE FOR PETITES GOES LIVE

HUDSON POPS UP AT THE HAMBLEDON Winchester lifestyle indie The Hambledon is hosting a pop-up shop by footwear brand Hudson throughout September, kicking off a/w in style.

The dedicated space will house a minimalist display, featuring a hand-picked selection of key styles for the season, including the Plath boot with lizard detailing, the Stanford leather loafer in rich Bordeaux and the slick Mirar ankle boot for a modern look.

“On hearing that The Hambledon had introduced the pop-up concept, we decided the space and atmosphere of the store would be ideal for the Hudson brand,” says Les Dawson, Hudson’s senior key accounts manager for the UK and US. “The Hambledon sells the Hudson brand brilliantly, and we have been looking to opt for a pop-up outside London.”

—

The first online store dedicated to high-end fashion for petite women has opened its virtual doors. Iamelfin.co.uk is the brainchild of Natalie Rodgers, herself a petite size four with size two feet, who has spent her lifetime shopping in children’s shops and being frustrated not to be able to enjoy designer fashion.

Debut brands include Kat Maconie, Rebecca Taylor, Draw in Light, Kelly Love, Manley and Language of Flowers, which have either catered for or created bespoke petite sizes specifically for the site. “I founded Elfin to fill a gap in the market for a super-cool petite offering,” says Rogers. “I want to target the fashionable petite customer, of which there are many, in desperate need of a one-stop shop.”

—

49 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

FORUM —

HOW DO YOU INCENTIVISE YOUR STAFF?

ROLE MODEL FOR THE RETAIL INDUSTRY Deryane Tadd, owner of St Alban’s indie The Dressing Room, has been shortlisted for the 2013 Specsavers Everywoman in Retail Ambassador Programme, which celebrates role models who individually represent the best of female talent working in retail.

The 25 retail ambassadors will be unveiled at a star-studded ceremony at The Waldorf Hilton, Aldwych, on 26 September. “I am so proud to have been nominated and shortlisted,” says Tadd. “I started my career in retail at a young age and have gone on to build a successful, well-respected multi-channel retail business.

I want to inspire young girls and women to consider retail as a great career option.”

—

HELENE RAPAPORT “We have regular Owner, Bernard, staff meetings with Esher open conversations as to how the store can be improved, enabling everyone to feel part of the decision making.”

—

JEWELLERY INDIE LAUNCHES WEBSITE Mini jewellery chain Mococo has launched its first e-commerce site in a bid to become the national go-to store for designer jewellery.

The indie chain has five bricks-and-mortar stores, in Chester, Liverpool, Mold, Ruthin and Wrexham, and stocks brands such as Pandora, Thomas Sabo, Chlobo and Tresor Paris. The debut of www.mococo.co.uk includes news, style tips and blogs.

“We believe that we have created a site that offers everything you would want from a luxury designer jewellery online experience,” says founder Maureen Hooson.

—

MY FAVOURITE SHOP...

THACKERAYS

by Alex Clibbens, female and key account sales executive, Diesel

CLAIRE WRIGHT “Our incentives are Owner, Gemini, for sales staff to Stratford-upon-Avon come up with ideas to bring the customers into the store, and to reward them on their KPI performance.”

—

STEVE COCHRANE Owner, Psyche, Middlesbrough

Thackerays 251-255 Wellingborough Road, Northampton, as well as Milton Keynes and Nottingham Owners: Brian and Eileen Richards Store opened: 1972 Brands include: Vivienne Westwood, McQ by Alexander McQueen, Maison Scotch, Ted Baker, Armani Jeans, Michael by Michael Kors.

“I have always loved Thackerays as it represents what a great female boutique should be. The store itself is spacious with its wide stairs and uncluttered feel, making it a relaxing and welcoming place to shop. This, coupled with great staff armed with in-depth brand and product knowledge, makes it stand out. The brand mix works really well and is a one-stop-shop for most occasions, with key luxury brands sitting comfortably next to fast fashion and complemented by a strong accessories offer.”

—

JANINE O’KEEFE Owner, O’Keefe, Esher

“We offer commission to our staff, competitive salaries and excellent staff discounts/uniform allowances, which seem to be working well in incentivising them.”

—

“We don’t have an incentive system as such, as I feel the size of my shop does not warrant it. But we have weekly targets for my staff, which keeps them motivated and driven.”

—



Garments that won’t hang about.

The steamer that will.

For more information Tel: 020 8417 0660

www.propress.co.uk

51 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

EXPERTS —

ADVICE Industry experts answer your retail questions —

SHOULD I MAKE USE OF MOBILE TECHNOLOGY?

WHAT’S TO CONSIDER WITH INTERNATIONAL EXPORTING?

For those wondering where “mobile” will head next, this behavioural insight will give you plenty to run with. In 2013, consumers will look to their mobile devices to maximise every moment. The next 12 months will see an explosion in mobile moments – products, services and experiences that will enable mobile-loving consumers to embrace seamless lifestyle multi-if-not-hyper tasking.

British fashion brands have two advantages when it comes to the international fashion market. Firstly, the UK has a reputation for exciting, innovative designers, creating a global appetite for British fashion. Secondly, there is a strong infrastructure in Britain – both online and offline – to enable your wares to reach a worldwide market. The UK exports £3.9bn in clothing and footwear every year, and this number is growing all the time. If you are looking to grow and strengthen your fashion business, exporting to foreign markets could set you on the road to international success.

Mobile and digital technologies will continue to breathe new life into traditional stores via mobile POS, augmented reality (AR) – generating video content on customers’ smartphones, virtual fitting rooms, personalised fit options and smart shopping carts. With mobile POS expected to experience rapid growth, led by speciality retailers, it will reduce former cash-wrap counters to a fraction of their size. It is therefore imperative that retailers engage with mobile shoppers – not intrusively, but on a simple, immediate and personal basis.

As digital channels continue to thrive and online shopping becomes favoured by a new generation of consumers, it looks as though “showrooming” is here to stay. So how can retailers maximise the store environment given this growing trend? First and foremost, retailers should step up the customer experience with competitive price-matching and promotions, loyalty schemes and personalisation of the in-store experience. On the operations side, the industry needs to expect the “bring your own device (BYOD)” movement to gain traction and should welcome the approach rather than fear the implications. BYOD can deliver cost savings and increase productivity if strategically considered and rolled out.

Customers want to be able to connect with retailers on their own terms and this will continue to become more apparent. They will expect communication via any channel, anytime, anywhere.

Mobile integration builds upon the customer’s emotional investment. It enables in-store staff to be more interactive with customers and offer additional services, such as payment on the spot (as opposed to queuing at a till) and offering the full product range in-store, by connecting to the online channel. Most importantly, secure and robust IT solutions including WiFi must be in place before presenting the technology to consumers – otherwise it could have a negative impact.

—

Small clothing, footwear and accessories brands are well suited to online trading or e-commerce, allowing them to reach a worldwide customer base without having to pay large overheads and upfront costs.

Choosing the right market for your goods is important, and it may be worth focusing on one country or a handful rather than spreading your resources too thinly, especially when you are new to exporting.

Designers should consider the local culture when assessing the likely demand for their products. There has traditionally been a high demand in China for high-end fashion labels, but increasingly the trendy youth population is seeking unique, unbranded items to define their individuality. Establishing local partnerships can be key to gaining on-the-ground insight and, if you are not opting for a purely e-commerce model, choosing the right distributors may make or break your business in that country. You might like to start by creating an export plan and populate it with research on your target market, including language spoken, time zone, business etiquette, currency rate, inflation, transport links, levels of consumer spending and, most importantly, demand in that market for your product or service.

An understanding of the necessary customs, finance and import/export regulations will also go a long way to facilitating distribution abroad, and help is at hand in the form of advisory bodies. UK Trade & Investment (UKTI) offers a range of services for UK exporters, including a flexible business tool called the Overseas Market Introduction Service (OMIS) and the Tradeshow Access Programme, which offers grants to enable firms to attend overseas trade fairs. The British Chambers of Commerce (BCC) also offers export training services. DHL, meanwhile, provides free support and guidance to small businesses looking to export.

—

Tony Bryant, head of business development, K3 Retail

Sue Perry-Whitehead, direct sales channel director, DHL

52 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

DIRECTORY —

FOR SALE MILLINERY

HEADWEAR

STEAMERS AND IRONS

WANTED

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Sale due to retirement Brands include Nigel Raymont, Hat Box, etc.

    

For more details contact: Daphne on 01559 363454.

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Distributed by: Arctic Fox Unit 22, Watford Metro Centre, Tolpits Lane, Watford, Herts WD18 9UN Tel: 01923 210646 Email: info@bullseyeinternation.co.uk

MANNEQUINS

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  

HAT BOXES RAILS

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Please contact: Box no WWB 230 The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL

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SHOWCASES

                  

Agent, with showroom base and many years of experience in the clothing industry, is looking for a leisurewear/countrywear agency to the retail sector for Yorkshire and the North East areas.

To advertise please call Mina or Jasprit on

01484 846069 or email mina@ras-publishing.com jasprit@ras-publishing.com

DISPLAYS

53 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

DIRECTORY —

NAMES AND NUMBERS Alexia 07956 585627 www.alexiafashion.co.uk Alex Monroe 020 7373 6061 www.alexmonroe.com Australia Luxe 020 7739 1414 www.australialuxeco.com Becksondergaard 0045 35837083 www.becksondergaard.com Cabinet 01460 68237 www.cabinetstudios.co.uk Camel Active Footwear 01642 677222 www.camelactive.de Cocorose 020 8829 8919 www.cocoroselondon.com EA Burns www.eaburns.com Elinavi 0161 8813539 www.elinavi.com Emma J Shipley www.emmajshipley.com Enelle 07908 666270 www.enellelondon.com Gwynedds 020 7739 1414 www.gwynedds.com Ingenious Jewellery 020 8445 6234 www.ingenious-jewellery.co.uk Jacey Withers 020 8341 0316 www.jaceuwithers.com Jamie Jewellery 020 8457 1313 www.jamiejewellery.co.uk John & Pearl 07740 150224 www.johnandpearl.co.uk J Shoes 01858 468123 www.jshoes.com Kat & Bee 07958 123344 www.katandbee.com Kat Maconie 07990 522510 www.katmaconie.com Kate Sheridan 07855 323747 www.katesheridan.com Lucy Folk 0061 396636829 www.lucyfolk.com Moda in Pelle 0113 2007334 www.modainpelle.com Olivia Burton 07860 776736 www.oliviaburton.com O’Neill 07795 622982 www.oneill.com Passigatti 0049 731985770 www.passigatti.com Ravel 01706 212512 www.jacobsongroup.co.uk Saint Kidd 07809 116500 www.saintkidd.com Sam Ubhi 020 8767 5533 www.samubhi.com Seven Boot Lane 01749 673222 www.sevenbootlane.com Sol Sana 07861 785763 www.solsana.com Superga 020 7428 9427 www.superga.co.uk Susannagh Grogan 0035 315547271 www.susannaghgrogan.com Textile Federation www.textilefederation.com Thierry Rabotin 0039 331495007 www.thierryrabotin.com Tissa Fontaneda 0034 606900383 www.tissafontaneda.com Zara Taylor www.zarataylor.co.uk Zatchels 020 7636 7058 www.zatchels.com

To subscribe to WWB simply call us on: +44 (0)1484 846069 email lydia.bennett@ite-exhibitions.com or visit wwb-online.co.uk.

EU £75 (includes p&p)

Outside EU £146 (includes p&p)

54 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2013

UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL —

ZANDRA RHODES The designer and British icon shares her career milestones, future ambitions, and why the launch of her footwear line is the perfect addition to her portfolio.

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You’ve launched your first footwear line for s/s 14. What prompted this move?

I launched my handbag collection in August 2012, and the range has been doing so well that we decided to launch a footwear collection to complete my accessory portfolio. So far, the reaction to the collection has been great, so it is a really fabulous thing to be doing.

What inspired the collection and what are the key pieces?

There are 15 styles in the line, spanning everything from canvas flats through to heels and wedges. I wanted to create a collection that offered something for everyone. I love shoes and I also love to see my designs on anything I can think of, so the footwear range brings both of these elements together.

You’ve had a long and varied career – what have been your milestones?

There have been so many highlights but, if I had to choose just some, I would say receiving my CBE in 1997 from the Queen at Buckingham Palace; the Roundhouse Fashion Show Midnight in 1972, which was my first spectacular show and possibly the first of its kind in London (starring Beatrice Wells, Warhol star Donna and Renata Sutch); and designing costumes for the opera, Aida.

Are there any aspects of your work that you love above other things?

Since 2000, my work has diversified into designing costumes and sets for various operas, and it is definitely something I love doing.

You champion British design and designers, not least with the creation of the Fashion & Textile Museum. What is your take on British design talent?

British design talent is unique because it has originality of thought and a certain fearlessness. Often designs influence the rest of the world but never get remembered or shown to the public. It is important to champion British designers as we have some fantastic talent in this country.

You’ve designed for many celebrity clients – is there anyone left you would like to work with or for?

Having designed a dress for Princess Diana, people ask me if I would like to design for the Duchess of Cambridge and, of course, I’d love to. She has an elegant style and carries herself so well – I would love for her to wear one of my designs.

INSIDER: Who is your style icon?

I have a few: Diana Vreeland, editor in chief of US Vogue; Paul Poiret; US film designer Adrian; and of course my mother, who was the reason I first got into fashion.

— Which fashion business do you admire?

I would have to say Prada, because it put forward an individual and complete image.

— What’s the best piece of industry advice you’ve ever been given?

To always be myself.

— What’s the one fashion item you can’t live without?

I don’t think I can narrow it down to one; there are three things I can’t live without – make-up, jewellery and of course my trademark coloured hair.