SCHOOLWEAR BUYER: THE LATEST NEWS AND OPINION FROM THE SCHOOLWEAR INDUSTRY
DAVID LUKE
38: News
40: Women in uniform While women still only represent a fraction of senior roles in business, over recent years the balance has been shifting. CWB speaks to some of the schoolwear sector’s leading business women to discuss their career paths.
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Schoolwear NEWS: The latest news from the schoolwear industry SCHOOLWEAR INDIE EXCELS IN CUSTOMER RELATIONS Offering school uniform across Dorset, independent retailer Dorset Schoolwear has employed a variety of strategies to maximise customer relations. As well as utilising social media via Facebook and Twitter, where it publicises in-store promotions, sales, offers, new product news and competitions, Dorset Schoolwear also has a Customer Club. Joined via a form on the retailer’s website, www.dorsetschoolwear.co.uk, members of the Club automatically receive benefits such as automatic access to book “priority service” appointments, emails receiving appropriate news, school uniform maintenance hints and tips, priority notice of sales, discounts and clearance lines and, as of January 2015, entry into termly prize draws and bonus draws. —
ROWLINSON SECURES STOCKPORT BUSINESS AWARD Rowlinson recently won the Best Employer award in the Stockport Business Awards 2014, an accolade presented to the company at a dinner and awards ceremony at the Hallmark Hotel, Manchester. Rowlinson has been in business in Stockport for 79 years, and is well linked with the education and training providers in the area. Launched three years ago, the Stockport Business Awards are designed to highlight and celebrate business excellence in the region, which boasts a thriving business community and has over 17,000 businesses across many sectors. —
2014 NEWS ROUND-UP
BALMORAL LAUNCHES FASHION BRITISH WOOL KNITWEAR Balmoral, UK manufacturer of school and corporate knitwear, has extended its remit to include a range of fashion British Wool Knitwear. The development follows Balmoral’s attendance in June at London’s Make It British – Meet the Manufacturers event, which introduces UK textiles manufacturers to new customers, particularly in the retail-brand sector. “Since retail brands have not been a focus of Balmoral traditionally, we decided to attend as an experiment,” says Mike Carden, Balmoral’s marketing director. “There was considerable interest in our still manufacturing in Britain (we make around 2,000 garments a week in our factory in Ayrshire), but the retail-brand customers were particularly interested in whether we could knit in British Wool.” Following successful trials testing British Wool yarns on its knitting machines, Balmoral is now making its first order in British Wool and has introduced a British Wool page to its website. “This is certainly an area we plan to grow,” adds Carden. “We have signed up for the same event in 2015, and have brand new sample products under development.” —
— The Schoolwear Association (SA) launched a national campaign to make school uniform more affordable for hard-working families. The SA, whose members clothe three quarters of Britain’s schoolchildren, wants the government to introduce a scheme similar to childcare vouchers to make school uniform tax deductible. — KK Schoolwear toasted 60 years in business. Situated in Magherafelt, Northern Ireland, in
MONEY-SAVING WEBSITE BACKS SA CAMPAIGN The Schoolwear Association’s tax-free school uniform campaign has received the backing of Gemma Johnson, CEO of the money saving and management website MyFamilyClub.co.uk. Johnson is backing the campaign for government to make it easier for parents to budget for high-quality and ethically sourced uniform, reducing the need for cheap, low-quality garments. “At MyFamilyClub we hear from families on a regular basis who have gone through numerous sets of school uniform from the major supermarkets within the same term,” she says. “They are naturally disappointed and very frustrated that these haven’t lasted.” This support from MyFamilyClub is in addition to previous endorsements from sites such as dadzclub.com, whose founder Craig Hodgson says, “School uniform is something to be proud of, but it can also be a costly affair for parents. This scheme will certainly help parents budget and plan for those torn trousers and lost jumpers.” —
DAVID LUKE APPOINTS NEW MD After more than three decades at the helm of David Luke, MD David Burgess has stepped down from the role to be replaced by his daughter and the company’s former commercial director, Kathryn Shuttleworth. Shuttleworth, 36, who was made David Luke’s commercial director in 2013, is well-equipped for her new challenge, having been with the company since 2002, working across almost all areas of the business during that time. Supporting Shuttleworth will be an experienced team of directors and managers, with Burgess stepping into the role of executive chairman. “It will be a new era, but still with the same values and principles that have guided our thinking since 1982,” says Burgess. “Kathryn will be responsible for driving the David Luke 2020 vision forward, focusing on customer service, alongside growth in sales and profitability.” —
the same purpose-built factory since 1973, the company still remains a family business after 60 years. — Worthing schoolwear manufacturer Charles Kirk celebrated 75 years of manufacturing.
Company, which manufactures woven labels and name tapes, underwent re-branding. — For Back to School, supermarket Aldi launched the lowest-cost school uniform on the UK market at £4.
— Leicester independent school uniform retailer John Cheatle went into administration. – Welsh second-generation family business The National Weaving NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 - 34
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WOMEN IN UNIFORM While women still only represent a fraction of senior management roles in business, over recent years, the balance has been shifting. CWB speaks to some of the schoolwear sector’s leading business women to discuss their career paths. —
KATHRYN SHUTTLEWORTH MANAGING DIRECTOR OF SCHOOL UNIFORM AND SPORTSWEAR SUPPLIER DAVID LUKE How has your career unfolded? I studied psychology at university before getting a place on the graduate management training scheme at Cussons, the Imperial Leather soap company. It was a great firm to work for and gave me a really good introduction into business and manufacturing. Following that, I moved to Arthur Andersen to go into tax advisory work. I worked there around the time of the Enron scandal, so it was a fascinating time to be part of the organisation. However, it did make me realise that I wanted to work in a smaller organisation, where you could really make a difference to the performance of the business. So when a job came up in 2002 at David Luke, where I had spent much of my youth helping my dad – former MD and our new executive chairman David Burgess – out in the summer holidays, I jumped at the chance. I didn’t get the job I initially went for in buying as a very capable buyer was on the market at the same time, so I started with the customer services team. I then worked my way across the whole David Luke business, working within every department. I’m delighted to say I was appointed MD of the company last month. — Did you always have ambition to manage a company? I’ve always had a sense of wanting to lead things – you can read into that, bossy! And from having a background with big businesses, I felt the opportunities to do that were greater within an SME environment. — What is your work ethic? I’ve always wanted to show those around me that I am prepared to do any job that needs to be done – if you aren’t prepared to get your hands dirty, I don’t think you can ask those working for you to do the same. But the most important thing for me is to recognise the abilities of others and always work to encourage people to achieve their potential.
This is something I want to focus on more now in my new role as MD. — Who have been your business mentors? My dad has been without question my biggest mentor along the way. The values he has instilled in me, and the sense of fairness that governs all he does, have been influential in the way I would like to lead. It is rare to find people in business who are not motivated by the need to push themselves forward at the expense of others, but I believe he achieves that. More recently, I have had some very inspirational advice from successful business women in the schoolwear industry – Gill Phipps from Early Years, who has successfully navigated succession, and Helen Serrano from Schooltogs, both of whom are such strong figureheads in their businesses. I plan to speak to them more about how to lead so effectively. — Is being a woman in business challenging? I haven’t ever seen being a woman challenging in the workplace. I do object to very male-centric networking events – they can be alienating for women – but I think they are reducing in importance so it doesn’t concern me. The differences you generally see between men and women in the workplace are advantages, and bring the diversity required to get the best results. The combination of styles is a positive thing. — The schoolwear industry is relatively maledominated, but do you feel over recent years
there has been some advancement in more senior-level females? It does seem to be the case in many industries now – there is a direct relationship between businesses that embrace diversity and those that are successful, so the gradual advancement is happening. I see a lot of women in the schoolwear industry though, and I believe that the number taking on senior positions will continue to increase – and for all the right reasons. — What are your key business tips? I’m perhaps not yet experienced enough to be giving out advice, but I would say to anyone that you get out of things what you put in. Although there can be a lot of juggling priorities as a working woman with a family, you’ve got to approach everything positively and enjoy all the challenges along the way. NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 - 36
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LAURA WATTS MANAGING DIRECTOR OF MARTON MILLS CO LTD, A YORKSHIRE FABRIC WEAVER WHOSE PRODUCTION IS FOCUSED ON SUPPLYING A STOCK SUPPORTED RANGE OF SCHOOLWEAR How has your career unfolded? After finishing my degree and qualifying as a nurse, I worked at a London Cardiothoracic Unit for six years. During this time I also worked as a medic in the TA attached to the Infantry. Following a move back to Yorkshire, where I grew up, I continued my career at Cordis, a franchise of Johnson & Johnson. This involved promoting treatments for heart disease to consultant cardiologists. In 2009 I agreed to join the family business, Marton Mills Co Ltd, with the long-term goal of following on from my father, Duncan Watts. Starting in production, I worked in planning and within various departments including accounts and sales, before being promoted to managing director in September. —
Did you always have ambition to manage a company? I knew it could be an option, having grown up alongside the family business, and working there during the school holidays from an early age. — What is your work ethic? I try to maintain a positive outlook and focus on solutions rather than problems. I strive to have a clear vision, with ambition to succeed, and be able to recognise the attributes and values of a team to allow them to reach their full potential. I also believe you should have knowledge and understanding of every aspect of your business. — Who has been your business mentor? My father – I have the utmost respect for him. He has a wealth of knowledge and experience. Being an accountant, he has an invaluable skill set, which has proven vital in surviving the recent economic challenges. —
Is being a woman in business challenging? It is when you have a young family, because there is a constant challenge to manage a work-life balance. I also believe women have to be prepared to work harder to prove themselves and gain the same respect as men. — The schoolwear industry is relatively male-dominated, but do you feel over recent years there has been some advancement in more senior-level females? UK manufacturing is still male-dominant. There are many family businesses within the schoolwear sector, so the opportunities are there, and it’s great to see other females coming through. It is important for Boards to represent society, and this is especially true in the schoolwear market. — What are your key business tips? Stand out; make yourself and your successes visible. Many women feel forced to choose between having children and furthering their career but, with a little planning, you can do both.
HELEN SERRANO DIRECTOR OF GRIDLINE ENTERPRISES LTD, T/A THE SCHOOL UNIFORM RETAILER SCHOOLTOGS AND THE FAMOUS SCHOOL BRANCHES How has your career unfolded? I started working straight after my A-levels in 1983 as a trainee accountant in a packaging company. I studied with day release and qualified in 1987 at the age of 22. From there I moved to Metal Box and worked as a factory accountant and then in Group reporting, until I took a career break in 1994. I returned to work as an accountant for Worcestershire County Council in 1999 but found juggling work and three small children quite a challenge. Working for myself was a solution. It was by chance I got into schoolwear; in short, I wandered into the School Shop Worcester in 2000 and thought “I like this business”. A few weeks later I was the owner. — Did you always have ambition to manage a company? Probably, yes. I come from a family background where we owned our own businesses. My father always made it clear that he would support me if I wanted to start my own venture, which he did. But as a traditional Yorkshire man, he made sure I paid it all back – that way I would work harder. I have enjoyed running my own business; it has helped me that I worked within a factory and administration background for many years beforehand. — What is your work ethic? I have passion for my work and industry. I like to get things right and strive to do so. I still get a kick out of gaining business and seeing our enterprise grow. I am a hands-on person and am involved with the whole business – probably too much, I’m sure my staff would
say! A good business leader has energy that resonates through their organisation; someone who can lead from the front but take their team with them. My organisation has grown because of the people within it – many of us have grown together through our experiences. — Who have been your business mentors? My father, a very successful businessman in his own field who brought me up to believe I could do anything if I wanted to and was prepared to work hard to achieve it. As he would say, “the harder I work, the luckier I become.” Alan Thomas, the financial director at Metal Box, believed in me and supported me. I was the only woman in the team in the early 90s and, at times, it was not easy. He guided me, for which I am grateful. Also John Yelland, my accountant since 2000, whose intellect and business experience I admire, and with whom I can easily discuss business situations. And my partner, Mike Hardy, who does not work in my field, but always listens, gives sound advice and tolerates me. — Is being a woman in business challenging? In the 80s and 90s, yes. Every day I was at the end of discrimination. It was just accepted in the workplace. I recall an appraisal in 1989 while being a factory accountant. I was the only woman on the management team, and the director told me I had to be “twice as good as any man in the role.” Nowadays, challenges are juggling family needs with the workplace. Times have moved on in terms of discrimination, but women are still expected to be the major carer of the family.
— The schoolwear industry is relatively male-dominated, but do you feel over recent years there has been some advancement in more senior-level females? I think this is in line with the industry as a whole. The “glass ceilings” are being broken by women and it makes for a better industry. We have a mixed team here, for instance, and it works. — What are your key business tips? Be prepared to work hard, listen to advice and always be a team player. When it gets tough, work a little harder, but never forget what is really important – your family. >>> NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 - 37
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GILL PHIPPS MANAGING DIRECTOR OF SOLIHULL SCHOOL UNIFORM SHOP, EARLY YEARS How has your career unfolded? My father started school uniform shop Early Years in 1968 and I initially had no plans to join the business. In 1975, I started a hotel and catering course, believing that was the career route I wished to pursue. However, it wasn’t for me, and in 1976 I joined Early Years, where I planned to spend one summer while I decided what I really wanted to do – I never left! — Did you always have ambition to manage a company? Absolutely not. However, a family business draws you in, and I just evolved into the role. — What is your work ethic? I believe that things are only achieved if you are prepared to work for them – you get out what you put in. I believe a good business leader is fair and understanding and, while they must always be prepared to take on board other people’s ideas and suggestions, they must be willing to take the ultimate responsibility for their decisions. — Who have been your business mentors? I have really appreciated the support and advice given to me by many people within the industry, especially Charles Horton of Charles
Kirk, David Burgess of David Luke and Chris Campbell of Howard Bros and Pullens. — Is being a woman in business challenging? I actually feel ours is an industry where women can succeed. When going into schools, you can often express your opinions not only as a retailer, but also as a mum – you have first-hand experience of the washing and wearing issues of school uniform and what is practical to parents. I feel this is definitely an industry where the way your business is run is far more important than the gender of the person running it. — The schoolwear industry is relatively male-dominated, but do you feel over recent years there has been some advancement in more senior-level females? I agree that in some ways it is a male-dominated industry but, even within the firms that are predominantly run by men, if you look in the background there are
some strong women – Bernadette Hawkes at Falcon, Lesley Taylor at G Winterbottom and Heather Walker at Trutex. There are also very determined women who have run their own business – Helen Serrano of Schooltogs, Christine Campbell of Howard Bros; we ladies are definitely standing our ground. — What are your key business tips? In this industry you can definitely advance, but it takes hard work, effort and determination.
SARAH HORTON-PARSONS CUSTOMER RELATIONS AND MARKETING FOR SCHOOLWEAR MANUFACTURER CHARLES KIRK
How has your career unfolded? During summer holidays I’d worked in most of the factory departments of my parents’ company, Charles Kirk, so I had good working knowledge of the processes. I found the making up of garments very interesting and wanted to learn more about the management of the company. I worked throughout the office, learning aspects of our accounts department, sales team and taking on the challenge of our new heat-press printing. I also helped the company re-brand a couple of years ago, and helped run the sales office. After completing my university degree in
sports development and coaching sciences, there weren’t many job opportunities and I wanted to travel. So I joined Charles Kirk fulltime in the office for two years on the condition I could go travelling for three months during that time. However, I went to New Zealand and Australia and I have now been with the company for over five years. Today, I oversee the running of all aspects of our customer services department and am working towards taking over all operational aspects of the company. — Did you always have ambition to manage a company? I did write in my school report that I wanted to be the “big boss of Charles Kirk when I was older”. When I left university, I was still trying to discover what I wanted to achieve in life. It wasn’t until after a couple of years working at Charles Kirk that I started to believe it was something I could do in the future; and do well. — What is your work ethic? To work hard and look after all customers as best I can, no matter who they are or how much business they do with us. Sometimes I am told I work too hard, but while I am young and able to put time into the business, I will. I think to be a good leader you have to be positive, personable and communicative, so you can inspire your team and build relationships with your customers. You have to be committed to the business and happy to take on any challenge.
Who have been your business mentors? Our two factory managers Kate and Ali helped mentor me with the day-to-day running of the factory and personnel management. My main mentors, however, are my parents Charles and Deborah Horton. I am learning from them every day, and hope to be able to keep growing the business in the same way they have. — Is being a woman in business challenging? I haven’t yet found it that challenging. I feel I built up respect as I was learning about the business and working within the factory, and many people knew me as I have been visiting our factory since babyhood. I have had a lot of support from everyone, allowing me to develop into different roles. — The schoolwear industry is relatively male-dominated, but do you feel over recent years there has been some advancement in more senior-level females? Yes, there appears to be more females taking leading roles both in supplier and retail schoolwear concerns. This is both a reflection of the wider business world and also in small companies where family commitments can be more easily juggled than in a corporate environment. — What are your key business tips? Always believe in yourself and be strong. Work hard, take as much advice and feedback as you can get, and make sure you have support and a good team around you. NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 - 38
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MAUREEN DOLAN Founder and CEO of children’s luxury UV swimwear brand Sand Dollar Swim
Model and mother-of-four Maureen Dolan studied fashion design and owned a boutique before embarking on her latest project of founding Sand Dollar Swim – a luxury label of UV children’s swimwear, which launched at Pitti Bimbo in Florence earlier this year. —
Laura Turner: Your background includes studying fashion design, owning a fashion boutique and being an ex-model. Has this experience lent itself to launching your own brand? Maureen Dolan: Yes, certainly. Fashion design taught me about fabric design and finishes to a garment. Modelling gave me “the inside” on how to style a shoot and understand what goes on in the background, while owning a fashion boutique has given me the insight to the business side of fashion. Beyond previous experience, devising a good business plan and having goals and sticking to them have been at the core of my setting up and running Sand Dollar Swim.
shimmers in the sun. For the boys, I love the Mask story – the colours are great.
LT: What is the brand’s ethos? MD: Sand Dollar Swim combines my passions for sun safety and fashion. It is founded on the basis of making UV swimwear more stylish so children want to be seen wearing it, and can have fun in the sun. It also has the niche of catering beyond the typical toddler market, offering sun-safe swimwear for children up to 12 years of age.
LT: Which other childrenswear brands do you admire? MD: Molo, for its quirkiness and design. It is a very cool and stylish brand.
LT: What does the collection comprise? MD: Catering for 1-12 years, with different styles for different ages, the collection comprises five stories for boys – Jungle Animals, Jungle Mask, Alien, Splash Paint and Surf, and five for girls – Star Fish, Tie Dye, Sparkle, Peacock and Jungle Mask.
LT: Have buying habits for children’s swimwear altered over recent years? MD: Travel has become more accessible; people used to travel once a year – typically in summer – but now they are also taking winter-sun breaks, creating year-round demand for UV swimwear. Children have become a lot more fashion aware at a younger age, too, and like to get involved when choosing what they wear. Parents, meanwhile, are more mindful of sun damage, so you see less call for bikinis and more requests for fuller-coverage garments like rash tops.
LT: What are the plans for the business, and where do you hope to see it in five years’ time? MD: We would like to be a global brand and the first UV label that people think of when travelling to hot countries. Further down the line, I’d like fulfilment centres throughout the world.
NAME: Maureen Dolan JOB TITLE: Founder and CEO of Sand Dollar Swim DATE OF BIRTH: 14 April 1972 PLACE OF BIRTH: Ireland NOW LIVES: Blackrock, Co Dublin
LT: What are the key design features of the garments? MD: We use a fast-drying, breathable fabric by the Italian manufacturer Carvico for all Sand Dollar Swim items. Our garments also feature zips to make them easier to take off and they are all SP 50+. We focus on beautiful, stylish pieces that are comfortable to wear, inspiring and energetic. LT: Do you personally get involved with the design and production? MD: Yes, from picking colours of fabrics and the design of garments to making sure the fit is correct and travelling to factories. I’m involved in the whole process. LT: Which is your favourite Sand Dollar Swim piece so far? MD: It is hard to pick a favourite! The girls’ long sleeve Sparkle story is so pretty – it just NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 - 42
Belles Pommes is showing for the very first time in the UK. Show dates for AW15 Ranges: Bubble London 1st/2nd February 2015 - Stand D29 Manchester 3rd/4th February Boroughbridge, Yorkshire 5th/6th February Indx Childrens wear 15th/16th February
Official UK Agent Richard Greenwood Early Years Agencies Ltd Plymouth Tel: 07854 841814 Email: richardgreenwood01@gmail.com Tel: +45 27 44 14 10 Email: hello@bellespommes.com www.bellespommes.dk