CWB96 Schoolwear

SCHOOLWEAR BUYER: THE LATEST NEWS AND OPINION FROM THE SCHOOLWEAR INDUSTRY

WINTERBOTTOM’S

32: News

36: The Rowlinson school of thought Rowlinson’s recent move to becoming an employee owned company and its continued investment in its people.

38: Blue Max Banner: The next phase MD Nigel Plenderleith discusses Blue Max Banner’s recent management buyout.

43: The Schoolwear Show Preview of what will be on offer at this month’s edition.

56: Schoolwear heritage Interview with Matthew Easter, MD of Trutex.

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SCHOOLWEAR NEWS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

SCHOOLWEAR NEWS: THE LATEST NEWS FROM THE SCHOOLWEAR INDUSTRY THE TRUE VALUE OF SCHOOL UNIFORM

MARATHON INVESTS IN SERVICES As part of a continued strategy to enhance and improve its services, school bag specialist Marathon is making improvements to its printing facilities. The developments, which are taking place this winter, are designed to make the company’s artwork and print department even more efficient.

The advancements will enable Marathon’s design team to create and print multi-coloured and highly detailed heat transfers in-house, reducing turnaround times and allowing for a more complete service. New promotional products and services are also in the pipeline.

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NEWS IN BRIEF

The Schoolwear Association (SA) has commissioned new research that challenges criticism of school uniform and proves its value to government, local authorities, schools and parents. The study, completed by Oxford Brookes University on behalf of the Association, shows school uniform costs, on average, just 45p per school day.

The organisation is using the findings to fight back against criticism that uniform is “too expensive”, marking the latest stage in the SA’s quest to win the support of head teachers and parents by demonstrating that quality, school-specific uniform is good value for money in the long run.

Through a communications and public affairs programme, the SA is working to convince the government, local authorities, parents, teachers and governors to recognise the added value of badged and school-specific uniforms, such as improved student behaviour and a sense of pride; to support local retailers, manufacturers and other independents involved in the sector; and to be prepared to pay a premium for quality compared with very low-cost generic goods.

The new research reveals the average secondary school outfit comes in at £88.05, or 45p per school day. With PE kit, the total averages £127.32. Primary school uniform comes to £33.48, and with PE kit puts the figures up to £42.32. Conversely, a separate poll of 2,000 parents revealed they typically spend more on the outfits their children wear outside of school time, than they do on their school uniform. Almost half of the parents surveyed claimed to dress their children in high-street and designer fashions, with the average non-uniform outfit costing £113.

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Schools minister Nick Gibb has announced the government’s intention to give summer-born children the right to start in Reception at the age of five. The minister stated admissions rules “must be changed so children born between 1 April and 31 August cannot be forced to go straight into Year 1 if they wait to start school until they turn five.”

Gibb has written an open letter to encourage schools and local authorities to take immediate action in advance of the proposed changes.

PROLONGING THE LIFE OF SCHOOLWEAR Liquiproof is a solution that can be sprayed onto school uniform garments, footwear and school bags to help prevent damage and prolong the product’s lifespan.

The solution works by bonding SiO2 particles to the individual fibres of the fabric, creating permanent bonded layers that form an invisible barrier against water and oil. Once applied, the formula causes all forms of liquids to roll off the surface of the item, allowing even white shirts and suede shoes to remain permanently stain-free without affecting the look, feel or breathability of the fabric.

Liquiproof is also eco-friendly, non-toxic, non-flammable and odourless. The water-based formula is supplied in a safe, non-aerosol bottle, and the “protective layer” Liquiproof provides is compliant with all types of fabric, both synthetic and natural.

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This year’s Back to School period saw supermarket giant Tesco fail to meet 2,000 orders for school shirts and sweaters customised with embroidered schools crests. Tesco, which launched its school uniform embroidery service in 2010, blamed higher than usual order numbers for it not meeting the orders before the start of term.

A recent Which? report has investigated the best washing powders for school uniform. The review tested over 40 laundry detergents to reveal the best for preserving brightly coloured school jumpers, keeping white shirts bright and generally keeping school uniform and sports kit stain-free. Which? test results also found Best Buy washing powders, liquid capsules and laundry gels that cost half as much per wash as rival products.

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SCHOOLWEAR NEWS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

SA’S SUNDAY NIGHT FEVER

DAVID LUKE BOOSTS DIGITAL PRESENCE Leading schoolwear supplier David Luke has updated its trade and brand websites for 2016.

The trade website, davidluketrade.com, which has been evolving and improving over the last 12 months, includes a host of new and improved features based on customer feedback.

Key services include users being able to place an order online and receive priority despatch the following day. Live stock levels are viewable in units to assist in decision-making on orders.

Payments can be made to update the user’s account, and it is easier to manage outstanding orders by viewing the “back order summary screen” with due dates for stock. There is also a library of product images available to download for stockists’ own websites.

David Luke’s fully refreshed brand website, davidluke.com, also has a designated section for retailers. It includes information on David Luke’s services as well as details about Eco Schools England and how to find its registered schools, which are a keen target for David Luke due to its extensive Eco Uniform range.

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HELIX DEVELOPS OXFORD RANGE Helix’s long-standing Oxford range of stationery is expanding to aid the studies of new generations.

Since the company’s launch in 1987, more than 150 million Oxford maths sets have been sold. Now, new products are being added to include school handwriting pens, permanent pens in a range of colours, a metal-sleeved eraser, a compact tri-lighter and pencil cases bearing the well-known Oxford logo and designs.

The complete range, which will be available to view at this month’s Schoolwear Show, will provide everything a child needs stationery-wise for Back to School.

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This year’s Schoolwear Association fundraiser is a 70s-themed evening. Sunday Night Fever will take place following the first day of The Schoolwear Show on 11 October from 7.30pm until late.

Taking place at The Village Hotel, Solihull, it includes a three-course dinner, 70s music and “fundraising fun”. Fancy dress is optional.

For further information, tickets – which are priced at £50 – and raffle tickets, email mariebradburn@talktalk.net. Tickets will be available up until the day and can also be purchased from the Schoolwear Association at The Schoolwear Show.

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NATIONAL WEAVING EXPANDS TO MEET DEMAND As part of its ongoing expansion, National Weaving has grown its premises by 7,000 sq ft.

The company began works around 2012 by over cladding the old factory. Initially, the motive was to create more space to bring in extra woven label looms to meet demand for current woven products, but also to enable the company to offer its customers a broader range of labels.

When demand for National Weaving’s printed lines, of both labels and accessories, continued to exceed expectations, the company went on to a add a separate unit to its premise to meet storage needs.

“We converted the old storage area in the main building into our new print facility to allow enough room for this department to grow, while keeping it in the same building,” says National Weaving’s production manager, Jake Lloyd.

“Since 2012, our year-round staff levels have risen from 20 to 30 people, and we also took on 15 extra staff members during the busy Back to School season this year.

“While some companies have moved manufacturing overseas, we feel that by keeping it in-house we can compete much harder in the areas which matter most to our customers – quality of goods and reliable delivery,” continues Lloyd. “We operate year-round, which gives us another advantage as suppliers from Asia typically have factory shut-downs lasting up to three weeks at a time causing significant disruption to their customers, who often come to us for ‘just in time’ deliveries.”

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DEVELOPMENTS FOR WINTERBOTTOM’S The 2016 schoolwear offering from Winterbottom’s includes new changes to its product assortment together with a fresh new look for its brand and a new company livery, reflecting 40 years’ experience in schoolwear.

Winterbottom’s is now also part of Lowe Clothing International (LCI), a privately owned clothing group that designs, sources and manufactures high-quality garments for retailers in the UK and worldwide. Benefits of being part of the LCI family include Winterbottom’s now being supported by a global design, sourcing and wholesaling group, with access to a large network of product management and quality assurance teams around the world. It is also stepping up its bespoke service, which will enable it to provide further design input to help retailers looking to broaden their school portfolio.

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KWIKTAPES FOUNDER IN ASDA DEAL Birmingham firm Kwiktapes, which offers a complete label printing solution, has landed a lucrative contract to supply iron-on name tags for school uniforms and shoes to the supermarket chain Asda.

Kwiktapes’ founder, John Baines, hopes the deal “will help the business conquer the giant US market” due to Asda being owned by American conglomerate Walmart.

Previously a central heating engineer, Baines started Kwiktapes after creating a machine that makes name tags using technology inspired by mine excavation. Today, his company exports the technology around the world, and he has a client list of 3,000, including companies in Russia and South Africa. Kwiktapes also supplies BHS and M&S. —

SKIDS PROMOTES AFFILIATION SCHEME Back to School footwear specialist Skids is appealing to schoolwear retailers that currently supply direct to schools to create a complete “head to toe” uniform supplied with its footwear.

An added point of sale for retailers who adopt the footwear brand as part of their uniform supplies is the opportunity to encourage schools to join the Skids Affiliation Scheme, which aims to help schools across the UK by donating £2 to their school PTA for every pair sold to a pupil at the affiliated school.

Additionally, following Skids’ attendance at kids’ trade fair Bubble London in July, it is now working on a collaboration with a buyer from Singapore – who is specifically targeting British expats wanting an alternative to Clarks shoes, the brand currently dominating the Singaporean market.

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PROFILE | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

THE ROWLINSON SCHOOL OF THOUGHT Last month, on its 80th anniversary, Rowlinson became employee owned. This significant step is somewhat a natural progression for a firm that, above all else, values the well-being of its staff, customers and suppliers. But ethical investment, it seems, also makes good business sense.

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SOME OF THE ROWLINSON TEAM

While you can’t overlook the achievement involved in any company reaching a substantial milestone in today’s market, Rowlinson reaching 80 years in business is almost shadowed by the impressive means by which it has got there. Unlike other businesses that choose to plough investment into premises, technology and products, Rowlinson’s focus is on its people – its staff, customers and suppliers – and this is the driver for its success.

Investing in people The belief at Rowlinson is that if every single person in the company is happy in their employment and – where applicable, rewarded for dedicated work ethic – those individuals will give 100 per cent to the job. A positive workforce sees Rowlinson’s customers receive the very best service possible; when customers are happy; strong margins are maintained and subsequently, sales flourish and profits increase. This may sound idealistic, but the figures really do speak for themselves, with the company’s annual delivery-to-time tipping 99.8 per cent and employee satisfaction surveys ranking at an impressive 98 per cent.

Inclusive not exclusive Every individual employed by Rowlinson, regardless of the job role, is subject to a thorough four-stage interview process. This is for the benefit of the employee as much as the business. Rowlinson wants its staff to be happy but, equally, highly productive and with a compatible work ethic, so it makes no apology for ensuring the person fits the bill.

Its recruitment process starts with an initial application form, then a telephone interview, followed by a “culture” interview, whereby the applicant is judged on “matched values of trust and care”, before the final stage of a skills test.

In keeping with its fair-for-all philosophy, Rowlinson’s employee benefits are inclusive, not exclusive. For instance, all staff are entitled to 25 days holiday from day one.

There is sickness pay and European Computer Driving Licence (ECDL) training for all. All employees were paid above the living wage last year and received an extra two days holiday as a reward for strong customer satisfaction results. There is also employee recognition for all via the company’s Employee of the Year awards and competitions that include

the chance for staff to visit Rowlinson’s offshore factories.

Other key benefits include early and improved pensions, childcare vouchers, flexible working hours, including term-time contracts, a healthcare cash plan and death in service at four times the employee’s salary.

Rowlinson even provides interest free loans to employees who find themselves in financial difficulty and debt.

The history of Rowlinson All that said, a successful company cannot survive on well-being alone. It also requires strong leadership and clever strategy, which is provided primarily by current managing director Donald Moore, who joined in 1999. It was while working for a textile consultancy that Moore had his first encounter with Rowlinson, carrying out a DTI funded project for the business. The outcome of the project saw him suggest three fundamental changes for Rowlinson’s improvement which, in hindsight, were game changers for the business. His advice was to invest in embroidery as a key driver for customers, appoint the business’ first-ever sales executive, and add sweatshirts OCTOBER 2015 - 36

PROFILE | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

IAN SMITH IN 1988

L-R: CHRIS, DORIS AND KEVIN ROWLINSON

to the range, which at the time no-one else specialised in. His suggestions were integrated, leading to the appointment of Andrew McConnell in 1993. Since McConnell’s appointment, sales turnover for the company has grown from £800,000 to over £11m and, today, he holds the title of Rowlinson’s sales director.

The family run firm Moore encountered 15 years ago was a very different business than it is today. Beginning life as a small, Stockport fashion knitter, specialising in ladies’ knitwear, it was called E&W Rowlinson – named after its founders, Edna and Wilfred Rowlinson.

While the business closed during the war, it reopened after the conflict and employed six people, who collectively produced around twenty-dozen garments a week.

A family business in the true sense of the word, Wilfred ran the factory, his wife Doris worked on the wages and books, with their son, Kevin Rowlinson, entering the business in the 60s. Kevin was instrumental in moving the small firm into manufacturing knitwear for school uniform, which was produced on a seasonal basis alongside the fashion knitwear.

The company slowly grew and, in 1987, moved from Hempshaw Lane in Stockport to the town’s Woodbank Industrial Estate.

The new premises, where Rowlinson still remains today, provided 11,000 sq ft of space for growth, and the company began focusing on the production of schoolwear and corporatewear. Kevin’s son, Chris Rowlinson, was the third-generation member to enter the business. Joining around 18 years ago, today he is the firm’s production director, responsible for embroidery, warehousing and distribution.

Ian Smith is another long-standing and key figure in Rowlinson’s making, joining the company almost 30 years ago at 16 years of age.

Smith has climbed in the company over that time, from his early years, where his role was to turn jumpers the right way out after production, to his current position as planning and customer care manager and racking up several “employee of the year” awards along the way.

The economic benefits to Rowlinson of the EO include higher productivity. This higher productivity sees EO companies perform much better in recession, they make and retain more profit, and they achieve higher customer satisfaction. Employee engagement is also higher than in other companies, which contributes to better staff retention.

For Rowlinson employees, the benefits include greater stability, because the company they work for can now never be sold. Each employee benefits from a profit share, which is tax free; obviously one of the biggest incentives that the government provides to employee-owned companies. Additionally, employees gain a “real say” in their company as one of its four trustees. It allows them a final say in the company’s biggest decisions, and even permits the right to remove and appoint directors.

For the management of Rowlinson, the move provides the opportunity to continue to improve customer satisfaction, service and lead times, together with the way they run the business for the benefit of everyone.

Rowlinson’s new ownership can be compared to John Lewis’ model. It will share some of its profits across all of its employees and it will retain more profits to build a healthier business for the future.

Becoming employee owned The latest phase in Rowlinson’s evolution, and also its most significant, was last month’s announcement that it has become employee owned. Employment ownership (EO) means the controlling interest of the company is in the hands of the employees via an EO trust.

Far-reaching ethics A real testament to Rowlinson’s unwavering conduct of care is just how far the business’ sense of ethics reach. Rowlinson is, for instance, an Accord signatory. The Accord on Fire and Building safety in Bangladesh was formed in the immediate aftermath of the

Funding employment ownership Funding of the employee ownership, and any impact on business, is one concern Rowlinson is keen to reassure. The employee ownership has been funded by Rowlinson’s bank, HSBC, via a long-term loan, which will pay shareholders for their shares.

This, and higher retention of profits, means that there will be no added financial pressures on the business. In fact, Rowlinson has invested even more into buying additional stocks, and much earlier, too, in order to maintain its best service ethos. This, combined with honing of its product offer to a minimum of products it knows it can produce and sell well, has set Rowlinson in its strongest-ever stead.

Rana Plaza building collapse in April 2013 – which led to the death of more than 1,100 people and injured more than 2,000. Having its own Bangladesh factory, New Horizon, Rowlinson was keen to help the cause and in signing the independent agreement has made its contribution to making sure all garment factories in Bangladesh eventually become safe workplaces. As New Horizon’s only customer, and in compliance with Rowlinson’s core company values of Care, Trust and to Be Better, Moore felt added responsibility to help give the factory’s staff the best working environment possible. With access to clean water in very limited supply in Bangladesh, and a leading cause of illness and death, Moore committed Rowlinson to donate water filter machines to each and every one of New Horizon’s staff with two or more years’ service, helping to safeguard both the workers and their families’ health.

An award-winning business As Moore jokingly admits himself, the work ethic and approach at Rowlinson could almost be described as “evangelical” but, modesty aside, the company’s set up and success is something special and has been acknowledged so accordingly. Amid its business awards, Rowlinson achieved Investors in People Gold status this year after receiving Silver in this best practice people management standard in 2014.

Both titles followed in-depth assessment of the company and its conduct, with this year’s elevation to Gold testament of the continued improvements made. Rowlinson has also been a finalist in the Stockport Employer of the Year business awards for the past three years, winning in 2014, and awaiting the 2015 results this month. It is also the first company in Stockport to be awarded with the Wellbeing Charter certificate, demonstrating care for the health, mental health and well-being of all of its people.

Rowlinson is a true “values business”, built on the founding family’s hard work, determination and commitment. Now, this ethos will be preserved through the family’s decision to make the company employee owned. “It seemed to us that the interests of everyone were best served by our family taking this action,” adds Chris Rowlinson. “In doing so, we could secure the longevity and security of the business – which is our first concern.

It seemed the right thing to do in a business that’s so strongly driven by ethics.”

And its driver for the future? Simply “to be better in everything it does”.

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INTERVIEW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

BLUE MAX BANNER: THE NEXT PHASE CWB’s Laura Turner speaks to Nigel Plenderleith, managing director of schoolwear specialist Blue Max Banner, to discuss the business’ recent management buyout.

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In July of this year, the shareholders of schoolwear specialist Blue Max Group announced the sale of the business. Led by Blue Max Group’s managing director, Nigel Plenderleith, the buyout has been backed by growth capital investor MML Capital Partners.

Laura Turner: What course of events led to the management buyout of Blue Max Banner?

Nigel Plenderleith: After running a successful business for 28 years, the Fawcus family felt that this year was the right time to retire from the Blue Max Banner business and allow the management to take the business forward. Everyone was closely involved in the process to ensure that adequate investment was in place, and that Blue Max Banner, under its new ownership, would be in a position to maintain the company’s core values and principles.

NIGEL PLENDERLEITH

LT: What were the biggest challenges faced during the management buyout?

NP: For the past 12 months, the management buyout has occupied a substantial amount of my time. Continuing to keep focused on managing the business on a day-to-day level while also trying to find the most suitable private equity investor to partner with was an

extremely time intensive process. Now that it is completed, I look forward to the opportunity of looking at the business more objectively and concentrating on the development of a long-term strategic direction for the Blue Max Banner business.

LT: Why did you choose to work with MML Capital Partners?

NP: MML was our preferred investment partner because it promised long-term commitment and investment in the business. The MML team is also flexible in its approach and will allow us to get on with the job – so it has been very much “business as usual”.

LT: Who is on Blue Max Banner’s new senior management team and board of directors?

NP: We are currently in the process of recruiting a chief financial officer (CFO) as well as a sales and marketing director, which will add a number of new faces to our workforce, strengthening the team and injecting further expertise into the business.

George Adams, the new chairman, together with two members of the MML team – Luke Jones and Bal Johal – also bring a wealth of experience across a wide range of industries. The new appointments, together with several other posts, are all designed to amplify our existing teams and deliver even better customer service.

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INTERVIEW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

TIMELINE: 1988 It all started in an attic in 1988, when Mary Fawcus was asked to raise funds for the 1988 Equestrian Olympic Fund and started mail ordering a special commemorative sweatshirt.

The company was born and named after Fawcus’ event horse, Blue Max. 2006 Stag Knitwear of Nottingham acquisition adds a range of more formal schoolwear – as well as Medallion Sportswear – to the Blue Max Banner Group.

2010 This year saw the acquisition of the renowned Banner and Beau Brummel schoolwear brands – which immediately transforms the combined operation into a £26m turnover business. The two labels bring over 150 years of schoolwear heritage to the Blue Max Banner Group. Beau Brummel’s origins date back to 1851, with Banner assuming control of the business 100 years later. The Banner Group also brings specialist embroidery and tailormade offerings to the portfolio, enabling the addition of a new and growing arm to the business in the shape of a bespoke service.

2013 The Blue Max Banner Group remains a family owned company, strengthening its position as a leading schoolwear supplier, while continuing to build its portfolio of sportswear and printwear.

2015 A management buyout is completed in July, led by Blue Max Banner Group’s MD, Nigel Plenderleith, and backed by growth capital investor MML Capital Partners. Under the direction of the new management team, Blue Max Banner intends to build on its strong foundations and brand values.

LT: What is the vision for Blue Max Banner under the new reshaped team?

NP: Blue Max Banner will remain the company it is, but with some immediate developments to enhance the customer experience.

Improvements will also be made to products in areas where it is required, including packaging and overall presentation of our products at retail, including relevant POS packages. Strengthening our overall marketing strategy and investing in delivering integrated marketing and product initiatives that resonate with our target audience are key focus areas to support the overall growth plans of the business. On a below-the-line level, we will be looking at boosting our promotional activity during the key Back to School retail periods.

LT: What other opportunities has the management buyout presented?

NP: Sportswear has been identified as a key development area and plans are well under way to develop a new sportswear collection to be launched in early 2016. Schoolwear currently represents a significant part of our business and will continue to be a key focus. The market continues to grow in both value and volume due to the changing dynamic within the schoolwear market, and we see this as an ongoing opportunity for Blue Max Banner.

LT: What elements of Blue Max Banner’s initial business ethos do you see remaining

and, equally, what do you see changing and evolving?

NP: As I say, it’s business as usual. Essentially, our commitment to delivering outstanding service to our customers remains unchanged.

Our key focus in terms of immediate development is to make investment and implement changes in areas where we can deliver tangible benefits to our customers.

Marketing, branding and product innovation are all areas where we are intensifying our efforts.

LT: What can we expect from Blue Max Banner for Back to School 2016? Will there be any key launches at this year’s Schoolwear Show?

NP: In the immediate future, we are extending our existing blazer offering and introducing a new suiting collection. Our outerwear range includes a new innovative addition and of course, as mentioned, we also have plans to develop a new and exciting performance sportswear line. Watch this space.

LT: What are your mid to long terms plans?

Where do you see the business in five years?

NP: In five years’ time, I want Blue Max Banner to be the most professional business operating in this sector offering strong, recognisable and trusted brands with integrity and genuine credibility.

LT: Following the acquisition of The Banner Group, Stag Knitwear and Medallion

Sportswear, are further bolt-on acquisitions a possibility?

NP: Historically, Blue Max Banner’s success has come partly from sound acquisitions and, where the opportunity arises, it will still be a possibility.

LT: In your opinion, what challenges are the wider schoolwear sector currently facing, and how do you see the industry evolving?

NP: The changes in the market are driven by the growth of academies, free schools, school trusts and increased pupil numbers.

Many of the educational institutions want to create their own individual identities and, therefore, the trend is moving more towards a bespoke uniform solution. The challenge here is managing expectations in terms of the ordering process and longer lead times to create, deliver and satisfy customer needs.

LT: What advice would you give to other business leaders involved in a management buyout process?

NP: The key risk is putting together an over-optimistic business plan, which is difficult to deliver. The upside and rewards of a successful management buyout is the opportunity for the new management to create a business that they believe in passionately, with the resources and infrastructure in place to take it to the next level.

OCTOBER 2015 - 39

Our people count...

Rowlinson Knitwear has been a family business for 80 years.

We are proud to announce that we are now owned by our employees.

Celebrating business excellence in 2014

2014

Employer of the year award

www.rowlinson-knitwear.com

THE SCHOOLWEAR SHOW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

THE SCHOOLWEAR SHOW

11-13 OCTOBER 2015 CRANMORE PARK, SOLIHULL WWW.THESCHOOLWEARSHOW.CO.UK uuu OCTOBER 2015 - 43

THE SCHOOLWEAR SHOW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

BALMORAL Balmoral manufactures bespoke British-made school knitwear in a wide range of yarn qualities. Its offer includes pullovers, cardigans and slip-overs in a soft-handle 100 per cent acrylic; Teflon-treated 50 per cent merino wool 50 per cent acrylic; 80 per cent wool 20 per cent nylon; and Nanotech-treated 70 per cent merino wool 30 per cent nylon. A minimum of just 24 per style (for stock yarn shades) can be made in the Balmoral factory in Ayrshire, Scotland, and bespoke orders, including contrast stripes and embroidery if required, can be produced in just 4-5 weeks. Examples of all these garments, in a range of weights and knit structures including cable-knit cricket sweaters, will be available to view at the show. Other stock knitwear, including fully fashioned single-bed pullovers in 50 per cent cotton, 50 per cent acrylic and 60 per cent wool, 40 per cent nylon from Balmoral’s off-shore partners in Eastern Europe will also be available to view.

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BLUE MAX BANNER With the government firmly behind the roll out of more academies across the UK, Blue Max Banner (BMB) is poised to meet demand in 2016 with its most comprehensive range to date.

New to the portfolio is the Aspire Suiting Collection. The jacket is available in styles for both girls and boys, with distinctive features common to both including jetted hip pockets with flaps, a welt chest pocket and fitted styling and a jacquard lining with piped trim.

For embroiderers, there is a concealed zip for easy access. The jacket can be teamed with a choice of trousers and skirts. Girls can select from a straight or pleated skirt, and an on-trend, slim-fit trouser is available for both boys and girls.

The Aspire range is constructed from a 65 per cent polyester and 35 per cent viscose fabric, is washable at 40 degrees and coated with a Max Tech stain-resistant finish. The collection is available in the three colour options of black, grey and navy.

Alternatively, the trousers and skirts can also be teamed with the new Prestige 55 per cent poly and 45 per cent wool-mix jacket in designs catering for males and females. Available in black or navy, each offers sophisticated fitted styling, button cuffs and a striped jacquard lining with contrast stripe to the sleeve lining. Despite their wool content, the jackets can be washed at 30 degrees. The new collection is available in chest sizes from 26” to 50”, including odd sizes to ensure best fit.

Tartan continues to be a key trend for 2015/2016, with BMB’s offering designed to create a completely unique uniform. BMB is anticipating demand with a Quality Yarn Die Tartan Fabric in a poly and viscose mix available in five colour options and two new styles; the Skye Tartan Skirt – an easy pull-on knife-pleat skirt with an elasticated waistband – and the Kelso Kilt, with stitched-down knife pleats and a wrap front and internal waist adjuster to accommodate all sizes.

Customers can also create their own designs with the new tartan fabric by taking advantage of the BMB Bespoke Service.

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BO-BELL Footwear brand Bo-bell will be presenting its 2016 school shoe collection at this year’s show. Key features within the range include new reflective materials for safety, rubber toe bumpers for scuff resistance, leather linings or anti-bacterial linings that inhibit fungal and bacterial growth, new patents in bigger sizes and a wide range.

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THE SCHOOLWEAR SHOW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

CARIBEE Caribee has been designing and manufacturing backpacks for over 50 years, with all bags having a three-year warranty. Highlights for BTS 2016 include the Retro backpack, whose features include an Action Back harness, A4 compatible main compartment, multiple storage compartments and an internal organiser panel.

Colour options are black, petrol and berry. Also key are the starter-pack ranges and the Rhine backpack. A bespoke embroidery service is available for selected products.

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CHADWICK TEAMWEAR This year marks Chadwick Teamwear’s third consecutive Schoolwear Show since launching its stock range of unbranded performance sportswear five years ago. Its garments can now be seen across a wide range of sports in schools, universities, grass roots sports clubs, as well as pro and semi-pro teams.

As a performance fabric supplier, it offers a 28-piece collection of key school products, with bestsellers including base layers, T-shirts, polos, rugby and training shorts, skorts, technical jackets and pants.

Its new schoolwear products include a quarter zip mid-layer, colour-combination polo, thermal winter coat and girls’ leggings.

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CHARLES KIRK Boasting over 75 years’ of manufacturing experience, Charles Kirk still manufactures stock and bespoke garments in its factory in Worthing. Its Heritage Definition acrylic knitted garments use the softest, smoothest yarn for performance knitwear.

To complement the range, Coolacryl has been designed in the UK and produced offshore to provide a durable, acrylic garment at a lower price point. Blends of wool/acrylic and cotton/acrylic, including the bestselling Coolflow range, are also available from both UK and offshore. The Colour + sweatshirts range continues to expand as schools demand higher standards in colour retention.

Charles Kirk offers a five-day embroidery and printing service on all stock garments, and is a preferred supplier of the Russell Jerzees Schoolwear range. Result jackets will also be on display at the show, as will examples of new products, which are a result of Charles Kirk’s continued investment in its manufacturing capacity.

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THE SCHOOLWEAR SHOW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

1:

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1: David Luke Trimmed boys’ Eco premier blazer

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2: David Luke Girls’ shawl collar jacket 3: David Luke Girls’ senior slim-fit Eco trouser

DIAMOND TEXTILES DAVID LUKE Following demand for a more stylish jacket for boys and girls in an upgraded fabric, David Luke has added to its stock range for BTS 2016 with the new Aspire collection of poly/wool jackets. David Luke aims to cater for the demand of the many secondary schools, sixth forms and academies seeking a more stylish and sophisticated look available to order from stock with the new Aspire offer. Made from a durable 55 per cent polyester and 45 per cent wool, all of the jackets in the range not only look smart the whole year through, but are designed to ensure maximum comfort for the wearer. The full range at present includes three jackets – two for girls and one for boys – available in 26”-52” chest size in black or navy from stock.

Also new is the girls’ senior slim-fit eco trouser. Designed to fit many schools’ uniform policies for girls, this trouser suits the more “fashion conscious” wearer. The style is slim-leg fit, made from durable yet comfortable eco polyester/viscose/elastane fabric, and designed to withstand the wear and tear of school life, as well as being eco-friendly. Sizes on offer range from a 22”-38” waist, with S, R, L and XL leg lengths available on most waist sizes.

Colours are black, grey and navy from stock.

Improvements made to David Luke’s current range for BTS 2016 include taping on skirts and blazers for additional smartness and colour. The fabric and fit of the rugby-style short have also been improved, with the fit seeing a slight narrowing of the leg, while the fabric is now a popular brushed poly and cotton – the same as David Luke’s DL17 sports short. Finally, the Bermuda-length boys’ school short is now flat fronted and has improved fit, once again with a slimmed leg for a more tailored look.

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Diamond Textiles has over 20 years’ experience in manufacturing high-quality, durable fabrics and garments, and is a specialist in the fleece and schoolwear market.

Garments include crew-neck sweatshirts, V-neck sweatshirts, cardigans and jog pants.

Other items are available on request, with personalised label options also available. Local and offshore production ensures that all sales, small or large, can be provided for.

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ETRADER eTrader is a leading supplier of personalised websites for garment decorators, created by garment decorators. eTrader has continued to grow over the past four years, building bespoke websites with design tools, a content management system, sales tools, SEO tools and marketing tools, to provide a low-cost solution for small print and embroidery businesses.

With a number of customers from a variety of backgrounds, the eTrader system continues to develop and grow, offering the latest web-design at affordable prices for small to medium size businesses in the industry.

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FALCON SPORTSWEAR Falcon Sportswear is increasing its stock colourways in the popular Spirit range to include black, sky and white. The recently added made-to-order EncoRe line has also been so well received that Falcon is now running six garments in four colourways from stock.

New for 2016 is Falcon Primary, a selection of T-shirts and shorts made from performance fabrics in a range of colours, all from stock, and ideal for the post-nursery market.

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HALBRO With over 96 years’ experience, Halbro is firmly established in the school market as a supplier of high-performance, bespoke sports clothing to suit all team and school sports, clubs and associations. It offers solutions for all requirements using technical performance fabrics with innovative designs, high-quality service and short lead times. Halbro’s new exclusive range will be available to view at the show.

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GYMPHLEX Gymphlex and GForce Sportswear have over 100 years’ experience producing high-quality sportswear. GForce will showcase seven new design styles at the show, as well as a wide range of its school sportswear items, using real-life case studies of schools across the UK who’ve brought their teamwear to life using the brand.

In recent months, in response to feedback from schools, GForce has adapted its designs, moving its own logo toward the shoulder of garments to allow the school’s logo to be more prominent.

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MAPED HELIX

KOZI KIDZ High-performance outdoor childrenswear brand Kozi Kidz will present its new Oxford Explorer rainwear collection. The new range is the next generation of the brand’s bestselling Oxford rainwear, updated with new fabrics and features for functionality and performance.

The durable Oxford Explorer garments are 100 per cent waterproof and breathable. Made from lightweight Oxford polyester fabric, the jacket and trousers have a 5,000mm hydrostatic head as well as fully taped seams. A slightly stronger cut at the rear of the jacket offers protection, while a full-length YKK zip, complete with a protective storm flap, ensures the jacket is easy to put on and take off. A zip guard at the chin is included to prevent the jacket rubbing, while the fully detachable hood and highly visable reflectors add increased safety. The matching trousers in the same fabric include extra reinforcement across the knees and seat, repositioned inner leg seams to reduce the level of abrasion, an elasticated waistband, fully adjustable and detachable braces and silicone foot straps.

The Oxford Explorer Jacket is available in berry, navy or black, each with contrasting trims and lining. The co-ordinating trousers come in black.

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Offering colourful and innovative stationery is Maped Helix, which will be unveiling its new ranges at the show. Highlights include the educative and fun pencil sharpener, Bunny Innovation, which is available in a choice of colours. The patented innovation, which sees the bunny’s teeth move up and down when the pencil is rotated clockwise, teaches children to sharpen pencils correctly. Another popular and recent creation is the award-winning Jungle Innovation. This product features 12 brightly coloured felt pens contained within one flexible compact holder, with the caps integrated into the base. When the base opens, the pens fan out like a palm tree, making colour selection quick and easy.

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MAKURA SPORT Established in Wales in 2008, Makura Sport has a specific focus on producing protective sports equipment. Following on from the success of both the Toka Pro and Ignis Pro mouth guard ranges, the latest product to be launched is the Tephra Max Mouth guard, which provides ultimate protection for all athletes competing in any contact sport. In addition to mouth guards, gum shields, sports accessories and equipment, including protection equipment, will also be available.

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MARTON MILLS Marton Mills is an established weaving company based in Yorkshire. The largest UK supplier of schoolwear fabric, it offers in stock lines in a variety of compositions to suit requirements. An experienced in-house design team offers bespoke designs, and enhances the high standard of quality and level of service.

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MARATHON Marathon will be exhibiting its full range, which includes everyday book folios and PE bags through to its Performance Bags, which use premium quality fabric, components and construction.

Two key focuses at this year’s show are the introduction of TUFFlite, Marathon’s next-generation performance fabric and the official launch of the new Performance backpack, School Pak. TUFFlite is Marathon’s upgraded, new and improved Performance fabric, a nylon made with an even higher density weave, and the PVC backing has been replaced with a PU coating.

These improvements allow for the same smart appearance while achieving an even stronger and lighter fabric, with Performance bags now between 15-30 per cent lighter. School Pak, meanwhile, is Marathon’s newest junior school bag style made to Performance quality and designed to carry A4 books and folders. Ergonomic features include side compression straps and an internal base board.

It also includes two main compartments with front accessory pocket, lightly padded back panel and shoulder straps, mesh water bottle holder and reflective strip.

All of Marathon’s products are suitable for screen printing, heat transfer and embroidery. It offers a full, in-house artwork service and is able to convert any logo into a choice of formats and advise customers on the most suitable application to suit requirements.

Its design team is able to create conceptual sketches based on any design requirements, from logo visualisation through to bespoke bag design.

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NATIONAL WEAVING

OPRO

National Weaving is set to present new lines at this year’s show. For its name label printing systems, it will be launching a new range of label stocks. In the past, it has only offered white iron-on labels, but the new range includes blue and pink iron-on labels; blue, pink and silver shoe and property labels; soft satin iron-on labels; and Stick ‘n Wash labels (pictured), where no sewing or ironing is required.

In addition to the aforementioned blank stocks, the new Stick ‘n Wash Labels are also available for customers to order pre-printed in a wide range of colours. The Stick ‘n Wash labels apply to clothing without need for sewing nor ironing – they simply stick to an existing care label. National Weaving will be demonstrating all of the new stocks and label printers at the show.

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At this year’s show, Opro will be promoting its new Club Swimwear collection and its soon-to-be relaunched Self-Fit mouth guard range.

The Maru Club and Core swimwear lines see an extended selection of colour combinations available, raised from three to five for the Team Pacer Jammers and the Team Pacer Vault Backs (black/red, navy/cobalt, royal/yellow, black/yellow and navy/red). The size range is 22”-32” for boys and 22”-34” for girls. All items are made from chlorine-resistant Pacer fabric, which is highly UV resistant and long-lasting. There is also a selection of four solid colours for boys’ briefs, shorts and Jammers, and four solid colours for girls across the open-back and closed-back costumes.

Developments to the Self-Fit mouth guard range, meanwhile, sees all mouth guards from Bronze upwards packaged in clams.

Silver mouth guards will no longer have yellow fins, as each outer colour will have its unique inner colour. The Gold and Platinum mouth guards will have coloured, Antimicrobial cases, which include Biomaster antimicrobial additive. Opro is also introducing a range of flavoured mouth guards, including bubble gum, mint and lemon. All Bronze, Silver and flavoured mouth guards will be available in junior sizes – which cater up to age 10 – with adult sizing for 10 years and above.

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THE SCHOOLWEAR SHOW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

ORION TEAMWEAR For 2016, Orion is focusing on the further development of two key areas – UK manufacture and Orion Buy Back.

It will be promoting its Made in Britain sublimated range of products at the show, which are manufactured at the company’s head office in Newcastle upon Tyne. To ensure ongoing availability of skilled labour, Orion is working with the local authority with a view to establishing a manufacturing school in Newcastle.

Orion Buy Back will also be endorsed – which is a service the company offers to specialist independent schoolwear retailers to take back and credit old PE uniform from any retailer that converts a school to the Orion range.

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POD Pod returns to The Schoolwear Show this month with its latest offering for BTS 2016. Amid its collection is the introduction of new girls’ “stitch out” shoes in black leather and patent uppers with soft leather linings available in sizes 20-35.

Also, in response to customer feedback, the brand has included a unisex brogue shoe in sizes 26-38, available in black and brown to accommodate schools that require brown shoes. Pod will also be showing new designs in its bestselling Stag and Terrain ranges, which include cemented and stitched soles in scuff-resistant, wipe-clean leathers available in sizes 32-46.

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SATCH

RICOSTA Showing its range of German-designed schools shoes, which are manufactured in Europe, is footwear brand Ricosta.

Highlights include high-quality leather uppers and linings; removable and washable foot beds; durable, lightweight and flexible PU sole units, moulded onto the uppers; an in-stock programme; and WMS width fitting.

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At this year’s Schoolwear Show, William Turner will also be showcasing the German bag brand Satch after being appointed Satch’s UK distributor earlier this year.

The range includes a backpack, pencil case, duffle bag, gym bag and wallet in a wide selection of vibrant colours, with all fabrics made from 100 per cent recycled PET bottles.

The backpack, a winner of the German and Reddot Design Awards, offers excellent ergonomic features and grows along with the individual height of the wearer.

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ROWLINSON At this year’s Schoolwear Show, Rowlinson will be showing its full range of knitwear together with its Woodbank range, which is being relaunched following product upgrades. The sweatshirts comprise 65 per cent polyester and 35 per cent cotton fabric, weighing in at an above average 280gsm. The hard-wearing fabric has been further developed, brushed for extra warmth and dyed to lock in colour and hold it, wash after wash.

These easy care garments are suitable for washing at 40°C with a cool tumble and cool iron if required. With a classic raglan sleeve for ease of movement, and elasticated cuffs that have recently been re-worked for comfort at the wrist, Woodbank is both durable and practical.

Available in a myriad of colours for both sweatshirts and polo shirts, the garments can be delivered from stock in 24 hours, or given Rowlinson’s speedy embroidery treatment and delivered in just a few days.

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TOP TO TOE Top to Toe has been developing retail software for over 20 years. At the show, it will be presenting the latest addition to its range, Wow Sync. This mobile technology means with just a phablet and scanner, a retailer can sync their stock and sales, see best and worst sellers, do mobile stock checks and track sales. Key features include Top to Toe hosting the system, allowing a business to run from anywhere with Top to Toe’s hub management interface. New products uploaded to Wow Sync automatically, and appear on all of a business’ websites and shops. The user can use manufacturers barcodes or Wow Sync’s automatically generated barcode labels, while Wow Sync mobile barcode scanners capture sales as they are made. Additionally, every sale updates the business’ stock figures on all sites and all locations. You can also enter stock, run reports and track sales.

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SKIDS FOR KIDS School footwear brand Skids has been developing its new offer for BTS 2016 and will be introducing seven new styles to complement its range.

All new styles are available to order in a choice of black, navy or brown leather uppers and feature a choice of either leather or breathable fabric lining. These options are designed to provide retailers with the ability to fine tune their stock and cater for schools where the preferred shoe colour is either navy or brown, while also giving parents options on price.

Highlights of the new range include a younger boys’ style with a thicker sole than is used on the current premium range alongside a unisex lace-up brogue and for the first time, adult-inspired styles for senior boys available in sizes 3-8.

Retailers wishing to stock Skids school shoes for 2016 can place their order in advance for guaranteed delivery around February/March 2016, while retailers wishing to order from the current collection will receive orders immediately.

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SPOT ON GIFTS New at this year’s show is Spot On Gifts, one of the biggest companies in the UK supplying official football and character merchandise for trade.

Its product range includes licensed backpacks, lunch bags, plastic and aluminium bottles, shin guards, gloves, gym bags, shoe bags, filled pencil cases and stationery sets.

Its character licenses include the latest movie release, Star Wars Episode VII, while bestsellers include Marvel Comics, Disney, Fireman Sam and Paw Patrol.

The company has a close partnership with major football licensees, with its 100 per cent official football range covering over 12,000 products for over 32 football clubs. Official merchandise of Rugby World Cup 2015 is also available.

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TOTTO New to the UK, distributed by Brand Agility, is Totto, a multinational fashion brand leader in Latin America of backpacks and accessories. Totto’s designs are made to adapt to clients’ needs and to offer a balance of aesthetics and functionality.

Brand Agility will be launching the 2016 Totto range of school bags, lunch packs, pencil cases and gear bags at The Schoolwear Show.

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THE MAGIC TOUCH Digital image transfer specialist The Magic Touch is launching a new 7.8 version of the existing, award-winning WoW transfer paper, offering improved processing and increased printable product options. Used in conjunction with the TMT/Oki C711WT (colour and white-toner) LED printer, WoW7.8 creates real marketing opportunity for those involved in garment and promotional product decoration, offering the user the ability to print full colour to almost any fabric or garment, regardless of colour or textile composition. This includes cotton, polyester, denim, nylon, soft-shell, polypongee and most performance fabrics. The process eliminates any “cutting or weeding” requirements and produces detailed designs quickly and economically. Each printer is installed with the new SpaceControl V3 RIP that enables full management and control on colours, white in particular, and is complete with a three year warranty.

The new WoW7.8 is available in both the A4 and A4XL sizes, offering single designs up to 420mm in length, with the ability to also produce full colour multiple logos per sheet for as little as 20p per transfer, subject to size.

This affordable white-toner innovation also produces great opacity and a very high “white” factor for non-fabric hard surface applications using the existing CPM transfer paper. These include dark-colour mugs, diaries, leather, wood, glass, board, PU surfaces and metals.

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TRUTEX For 2016, Trutex is launching a selection of new products including products featuring Trutex Stay Smart, a range of new attributes designed to ensure Trutex schoolwear remains looking newer for longer.

Innovations continue with a “smart pocket” feature in boys’ trousers and in new products within the girls’ skirt and junior product categories. To support its growing customer base, Trutex’s sports brand, Akoa, sees extra colourways and sizes for 2016.

Meanwhile, the addition of Trutex’s UK manufacturing arm, John Hall England, has provided new capabilities to manufacture truly bespoke solutions in a wide range of woven garments.

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URBAN JUNK Urban Junk is making its Schoolwear Show debut this year with a collection of BTS backpacks. The range features over 40 designs including Fly High Junky, which has wings, and Jiggy (pictured), a jigsaw design using an embossed material.

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WINTERBOTTOM’S WILLIAM TURNER William Turner’s new stocked range of contrast trim school bags will again be featured at this year’s Schoolwear Show.

The collection, exclusive to William Turner, includes a despatch bag and gym bag, as well as both an infant and junior backpack, and is unique due to the trim on each bag being supplied in a contrasting colour. This offers schools an opportunity to match their school bag to other items of their uniform.

The colour combinations are based upon its bestselling stock tie designs and popular special tie shades. It has seven colours trimmed with gold – black, bottle, maroon, navy, purple, red and royal. Also available are navy/jade, navy/red and navy/sky options.

In addition, William Turner will be showcasing new backpacks in printed fabrics, new scarf styles, hair accessories and, due to the success of its stocked water bottles, a selection of bottles in different sizes and colours.

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Following a successful BTS 2015 driven by improved stock support, Winterbottom’s has committed to even more investment in core products for the 2016 season.

As a result, it will be offering retailers some new, tailored stock-support packages.

New products to be launched include a stock-supported, tailored-fit blazer in both boys’ and girls’ styles; slim-fit, easy care shirts and blouses in new packaging; improved fit and specification on non-iron shirts and blouses; and a new raglan sleeve, acrylic blend sweatshirt collection available in three styles to complement the new poly/cotton styles launched in 2015.

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THE SCHOOLWEAR SHOW 11-13 OCTOBER 2015 SHEWARD HOUSE, CRANMORE AVENUE, SHIRLEY, SOLIHULL B90 4LF WWW.THESCHOOLWEARSHOW.CO.UK

DAVID LUKE

TOP TO TOE 6.

7.

URBAN JUNK SKIDS FOR KIDS

BO-BELL 8.

9.

10.

CARTA SPORTS

WILLIAM LAMB

11.

12.

53.

5.

13.

23.

POD SHOES

DAVID LUKE

24.

SDL GROUP

MAGIC FIT

G&D GARMENTS

RAP

38.

39.

37

14.

4.

HALBRO

22.

ZECO

MARATHON

25.

SPOT ON GIFTS

PEX BALMORAL

40.

48.

MAPED HELIX

3.

RICOSTA

47.

EUROPA SPORTS

ETRADER 2.

21.

15.

26.

36.

41.

46.

WREN

DOUGLAS & GRAHAME

NATIONAL WEAVING

BLUE MAX BANNER

35.

BLUE MAX BANNER

BRAND WINTERBOTTOM’S AGILITY CANDY BOWS

ORION

1.

16.

20.

GARDINER BROS

CWB

GYMPHLEX

WILLIAM TURNER

KOZI KIDZ

PENCARRIE

33.

CWB magazine Gardiner Bros Douglas & Grahame eTrader Marathon David Luke David Luke Top to Toe Bo-Bell Urban Junk Skids for Kids Carta Sport William Lamb Footwear Pod shoes

SCHOOLWEAR ASSOCIATION

ROWLINSON

COFFEE LOUNGE

28.

29.

14.

15.

16.

17.

18.

19.

20.

21.

22.

23.

24.

25.

26.

27.

50.

18.

52

30.

KT LABELS

1a.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

13.

43a.

51.

SATCH BY WILLIAM TURNER

RECEPTION

TRUTEX

DIAMOND TEXTILES FALCON

ESKIMO EPOS

44.

MAKURA

42a.

MARTON MILLS

19.

1a.

STABILO

34.

CHARLES KIRK

17.

45.

43.

27.

42.

CHADWICK TEAMWEAR

49.

LOLLIPOP

Zeco National Weaving Chadwick Teamwear Gymphlex Eskimo Epos Diamond Textiles Charles Kirk Blue Max Banner Spot On Gifts SDL Group Magic Fit Balmoral Blue Max Banner William Turner

AMAYA 31.

THE MAGIC TOUCH

28.

29.

30.

31.

32.

33.

34.

35.

36.

37.

38.

39.

40.

41.

32.

TARGET DRY

Satch by William Turner KT Labels / Kwiktapes The Magic Touch Target Dry Opro Falcon Sportswear Marton Mills Orion Teamwear Wren Schoolwear Pex G&D Garments Halbro Maped Helix Winterbottom’s

OPRO

42. Stabilo 43a. Pencarrie 43a. Kozi Kidz 43. Makura 44. Candy Bows 45. Brand Agility 46. Lollipop 47. Ricosta 48. Europa Sports 49. Trutex 50. Schoolwear Association 51. Rowlinson 52. Amaya 53. RAP OCTOBER 2015 - 54

INTERVIEW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

SCHOOLWEAR HERITAGE This year, Trutex celebrates its 150-year anniversary, supplying school uniform for children spanning six generations. CWB speaks to the company’s MD, Matthew Easter, for an update on the business’ most recent activities.

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Established in 1985 in Grindleton, in the heart of Lancashire’s Ribble Valley, the Clitheroe Shirting Company has been manufacturing under the Trutex brand since the early 1920s, changing its name to Trutex in 1965. Throughout its history, Trutex has strived to be an innovator and adapt to the ever-changing trends of the schoolwear market, with the last five years of its 150 seeing some of its most crucial developments.

Laura Turner: Trutex was acquired by private equity firm Endless in 2010, before a management buyout of the company earlier this year. How has Trutex evolved over that five-year period?

Matthew Easter: It is no secret that despite a long history, and a very strong brand in the schoolwear market, Trutex had not been progressing as a business in the years running up to the 2010 acquisition. With the support of private equity firm Endless, we were able

to take a “clean sheet” approach on how the business operated and implement far-reaching changes to our operating model. This included re-strengthening our relationships with independent retailers across the UK, and the development of our sportswear brand, Akoa, which has been extremely successful. We have enjoyed three years of strong growth from the Akoa brand since it was launched, and believe there is the capacity to increase sales further in the years ahead. We continue to add to and refine our range, and will be introducing yet more colour options to ensure we provide a wide choice for our customers going forward.

Another major development was our acquisition of the John Hall specialist manufacturing business in 2013 – an operation that has been further developed since.

LT: John Hall Schoolwear has subsequently added a UK manufacturing arm to the business.

How has this enhanced Trutex’s offer?

ME: Our John Hall business has given us the opportunity to provide more bespoke schoolwear for schools that want to go down that route – particularly those in the independent sector. It also gives us the flexibility to work in shorter production runs and within smaller time scales where appropriate, too. This benefits retailers and schools that are looking for a more unique approach to their uniform, as we are able to work with customers on their design requirements, along with specifications and fabrics.

LT: Is UK-manufactured product something Trutex intends to build upon?

ME: Absolutely. We believe that John Hall has the capability to grow significantly in the next few years. We have invested in additional equipment and staff to drive efficiency and allow us to manufacture a broader range of products to support our retail customers.

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INTERVIEW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

MATTHEW EASTER

LT: What course of events led to Trutex’s management buyout earlier this year?

ME: Having invested in Trutex in 2010, our private equity partner Endless had worked with us through a period of strategic change and improvement, but were then happy to agree a deal with the existing management team, who were keen to take the business forward for the longer-term. The new structure has allowed us to take a long-standing strategic view on the business, including additional working capital investment to support our activities.

LT: What is the next phase for Trutex?

ME: We are continuing to develop and grow our brands with new products, services and initiatives, and we are particularly excited about the new products and service improvements for 2016. We continue to listen to our customers and work hard to meet their needs and those of their customers. We expect that the next five years will see new customers, coupled with more innovation in our product range, giving customers more reasons to choose Trutex.

LT: Amid the new offer for 2016, you are launching Trutex Stay Smart – what is this?

ME: Trutex Stay Smart is a set of clever product features over a range of our items, which will help keep these products looking smart for longer. Attributes include a permanent crease feature on boys’ trousers and a stain-resistant coating.

LT: Trutex offers a wide range of services for customers, retailers and schools. Can you tell me more about the support you provide?

ME: We believe strongly that it is important to provide as much support to our retail partners as possible to help them grow and develop their business with Trutex products and, equally, help facilitate the best-possible support for the schools and parents that they serve. This may include, for example, marketing literature, detailed product information or even support in-store when it

“It is no secret that despite a long history, and a very strong brand in the schoolwear market, Trutex had not been progressing as a business in the years running up to the 2010 acquisition. With the support of private equity firm Endless, we were able to take a ‘clean sheet’ approach on how the business operated and implement far-reaching changes to our operating model” is most needed in the summer. Trutex works in partnership with around 30 licensees across the UK. These businesses benefit from additional services and support, and give us a platform for working very closely together – which we feel is mutually beneficial.

Elsewhere, we have done such things as a Back to School guide, containing lots of tips and advice on school-related topics. We had articles written by the NSPCC, The Children’s Food Trust and Dr Sarah Jarvis from Radio 2’s Jeremy Vine Show on how to treat common school illnesses. Trutex has also designed and created a number of teaching resources with the help of local school teachers. The resources relate to specific topics taken from Key Stage 1 and 2, with the initial three encouraging learning in the areas of Design Technology, English and Citizenship.

will be visiting this month to experience the work done by the charity and to see how else we can help support them.

LT: Trutex recently supplied uniforms to Wood Street Mission children’s charity – can you tell me more about this?

ME: We were approached by Wood Street Mission to help them supply children in poverty from the Manchester and Salford regions with quality school uniform. The aim is to provide all children living in poverty in these regions with school uniform, so that they can help to break the cycle of poverty and help children fulfil their potential. We were pleased to help, and plan to continue supporting the cause next year and beyond.

LT Have you done anything as a company to mark Trutex’s 150th anniversary this year?

ME: Yes, we have marked the milestone with several initiatives. One of these was a special-edition 2015 children’s activity pack, which was free to Trutex retailers and their schools, and provided children with ideas of things to do over the summer holidays. The theme was Alice in Wonderland, which was a nod to 2015, marking the 150-year anniversary of both Trutex and the children’s book Alice in Wonderland by Lewis Carroll.

Activities in the packs included “How to make an origami white rabbit”, “How to make a Queen of Hearts crown and a Mad Hatter’s hat”, a word search, a Queen of Hearts tarts recipe, a colouring competition and some interesting facts. We are also planning to celebrate with our licensees and key customers later in the year.

LT: Is Trutex involved in any other charity work?

ME: Yes, we support a number of worthwhile causes, both locally and nationwide. We have, for instance, recently started supporting an orphanage in Malawi. Two of our office staff

LT: Another of Trutex’s credentials is its status as the UK’s first Carbon Neutral specialist schoolwear provider – what did you have to do to reach this status?

ME: It is quite a complex process and set-up to become Carbon Neutral, and Trutex has to go through an extensive auditing programme each year to maintain the status. Going down this route involved a complete change in mind-set for the business, as we need to deliver year-on-year reductions in CO2 emissions. It has, however, ignited a number of really good internal strategies to deliver these improvements, which we feel is an important part of being a responsible company.

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Winterbottom’s Schoolwear The Schoolwear Show AIS Solihull 11th-13th October 2015 Stand no. 41

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A • Alvanon 020 7792 5977 www.alvanon.com • An Elf for Christmas Toy & Kit 0191 303 8668 www.elfforchristmas.co.uk • Anne-Claire Petit 0031 (0)206792338 www.anneclairepetit.nl B • Balmoral 01900 829229 www.balmoralknitwear.biz • Bandits Girl 020 8740 4097 www.brand-stable.com • Belle & Boo 0117 924 6382 www.belleandboo.com • BKD 07791 097481 www.bkd-london.com • Blade & Rose 07920 752260 www.bladeandrose.co.uk • Blue Max Banner 01225 715070 www.bluemaxbanner.co.uk • Bo-Bell 07809 426922 www.bo-bell.pt • Bogs www.bogsfootwear.com • Braveling 07786 071667 www.braveling.co.uk C • Caribee 0131 554 5555 www.caribee-uk.com • Chadwick Teamwear 0161 927 2565 www.chadwicktextiles.co.uk • Charles Kirk 01903 244863 www.charleskirk.co.uk D • David Luke 0161 272 7474 www.davidluke.com • D for Diamond 01376 532000 www.geckojewellery.com • Diamond Textiles 0116 251 0121 www.diamondtextiles.co.uk • Diddywear 07985 747660 www.diddywear.com E • Emile et Rose 01664 823924 www.emile-et-rose.co.uk • Enchanted Forest and Friends 01475 745794 www.enchantedforestandfriends.com F • Falcon Sportswear 01274 306440 www.falconsports.co.uk • Finn + Emma 01276 408494 www.naturalbabyshower.co.uk G • Gudrun & Gudrun Kids 0045 29617077 www.gudrungudrun.com • Gymphlex/GForce 0116 255 6326 www.gforcesportswear.co.uk H • Halbro 01204 696476 www.halbro.com • Hatley 020 7544 4833 www.hatley.com • Hazel Village 0161 900 2409 www.charvinjames.co.uk I • Inky & Mole 01935 826071 www.inkyandmole.co.uk K • K.T. Labels 0121 689 2211 www.kwiktapelabels.com L • Lapin & Me 07852 328492 www.lapinandme.co.uk M • Maped Helix 01384 286860 www.mapedhelix.co.uk • Marathon 01932 359188 www.marathonss.com • Marton Mills 0113 284 3364 www.martonmills.com • Mimosa www.mimosakids.com • Mini Vanilla 01306 877665 www.minivanilla.com • Moccis 0333 5777500 www.moccis.co.uk N • National Weaving 01834 861446 www.nationalweaving.co.uk • Noodoll 020 7253 1890 www.noodoll.com O • Opro 01442 430690 www.oprogroup.com • Orion Teamwear 0191 266 7651 www.orionteamwear.com • Oskar & Ellen 020 7000 1988 www.oskarellen.com P • Peacheyboo 01444 881945 www.peacheyboo.com • Petasil 01604 876800 www.petasilkidsshoes.com • Pipkits 01484 485100 www.burhousebeads.com/pipkits • Pixie Dixie 020 7631 2084 www.pixiedixie.co.uk • Poco Nido 0114 243 5886 www.poconido.com • Pod 01234 240440 www.pod-footwear.com • Powell Craft 01273 622023 www.powellcraft.co.uk • Primigi 020 8567 2384 www.primigi.it R • Rachel Riley 020 7935 7007 www.rachelriley.com • Red Urchin 07810 565999 www.redurchin.co.uk • Ricosta 0116 259 7427 www.ricosta.co.uk • Rowlinson 0161 477 7791 www.rowlinson-knitwear.com S • Satch by William Turner 0161 480 8582 www.ergobag.com/satch • Sense Organics 020 7253 9896 www.senseorganics.com • Skids 07973 831289 www.skidsforkids.co.uk • Spot on Gifts 020 8573 0803 www.spotongifts.net • Star51 020 3036 0637 www.star51.co.uk • Sunuva 020 7286 3955 www.sunuva.com T • The Magic Touch 01582 671444 www.themagictouch.co.uk • Toby Tiger 01903 766777 www.tobytiger.co.uk • Top to Toe 020 3376 5888 www.toptotoe.com • Trutex 01200 421200 www.trutex.com U • Urban Junk 020 8558 4400 www.urbanjunkuk.com W • Well Grounded Company www.wellgroundedco.com • Wild & Soft 0032 51804020 www.wildandsoft.com • William Turner 0161 480 8582 www.unicol-schoolwear.co.uk • Winterbottom’s 01254 390700 www.graham-winterbottom.co.uk Z • Zuma the Dog 07778 669680 www.zumathedog.com OCTOBER 2015 - 63

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DAVID BURGESS Schoolwear Association chair David Burgess, the new chair of the Schoolwear Association, reveals why he’s returned to the role he previously held in 2011, and what his plans are for the Association second time round.

— Laura Turner: You were appointed Schoolwear Association (SA) chair this year, but also held the position in 2011. Why have you decided to return?

David Burgess: Until recently, I was MD for school uniform and sportswear company David Luke, but I have passed this role on to my daughter, Kathryn Shuttleworth. Although I still have a role as executive chairman at David Luke, I have more time to focus on the work of the SA. I felt we achieved so much when I was chair of the SA last time round, and I think we can keep building on the progress we’ve made. I am passionate about the schoolwear industry and the values of the Association.

LT: What’s your message as the new chair?

DB: The message is that every child deserves good-quality, school-specific uniform. We want to continue to be the voice for the schoolwear industry and to campaign for high-quality, school-specific uniform from independent British manufacturers, suppliers and retailers. It is our role to make sure everyone understands how our industry works, and how important it is that children have access to quality uniforms from businesses that are experts in the field.

We will be proactive in putting that message across via the media, by lobbying government and stakeholders, and by communicating directly with head teachers, governors and organisations that represent them, as well as organisations interested in the wellbeing of children and education. We will also counter ill-founded criticism about the cost of school uniform with the huge body of evidence that we have accumulated to prove its real value.

LT: Do you plan to do anything differently second time round?

DB: The challenge has moved on from whether or not children should have uniform. We proved previously that by standing together and making the case for uniform, we had an effective collective voice. Now we are engaged in a campaign to prove the value of good quality, school-specific uniform over cheap chain store “grey wear” as well as the benefits that schools, parents and children get from having the expertise and commitment of dedicated independent suppliers. We aim to be much more inclusive; involving stakeholders and bringing them along with us, rather than combative. For example, we want to work with children’s charities to advise schools how to help disadvantaged families and ensure parents have access to good-quality uniform.

LT: How has the Association evolved since you last held the position of chair?

DB: We have become much more effective at getting our messages into the media, and in

persuading journalists that we are the voice of the industry. We have also opened up new lines of communication with the government, head teachers and children’s organisations.

LT: What was first on your agenda for the SA? DB: My predecessors have done a sterling job since 2011, so my first task has been to see that the work they have done continues. Beyond this, I wanted the SA to reach out to stakeholders and potential partners with similar interests and values, especially the wellbeing of children and education. That way, we can make a strong, concerted case for quality school uniform with less risk of being perceived as making the arguments for purely commercial reasons.

LT: What are the SA’s main challenges?

DB: There is still a lot to be done, including our continued work with schools and external bodies to communicate what we do, what we stand for, and the standards that schools and parents can expect from the specialist and professional members of the SA. I think the major challenge is one that we share with a lot of membership bodies, and that is lack of resources. We are entirely run by our volunteer members, with very little administrative support, so there are limits to how much time and energy we can all put into it.

LT: What campaigns has the Association been working on recently?

DB: Under the heading “Every child is worth it”, we have been communicating with government, schools, charities, parents, the media and everyone with an interest in school uniform, to make sure every child is properly clothed for school every day. Our campaign this summer has mainly focused on the value argument, backed up with independent research demonstrating the real cost of school uniform.

LT: What do you see as the biggest challenges currently facing the school-specific uniform sector, and how can the SA help combat them?

DB: The biggest challenge is the competition from supermarkets, which sell cheap alternative garments. The national media can also be a threat, dramatising the cost of school uniform and worrying parents. We have to persuade parents that their children are worth it, and make the case for quality and real value over price. We have to persuade schools that the right balance of specific and generic will bring all the benefits of a proper uniform. We have to persuade the DfE that it’s all about balance, too.

LT: Other than your appointment, what other changes have there been to the Board and Committee this year?

DB: We have a new vice chair, Christine Campbell, who is retired but has a wealth of

NAME: David Burgess JOB TITLE: Schoolwear Association chair and executive chairman at David Luke

retail experience that is invaluable, and Trudy Bryan, who is PA to the executive and the main communication channel, which is a major step forward. The Association also had some new members join at our AGM in March.

LT: What’s planned for this year’s annual Association fundraiser in October?

DB: This year we are having a Sunday Night Fever themed event. Think John Travolta, flares and disco lights. It’s taking place on Sunday 11 October and will be a fantastic night. Tickets are available through info@schoolwearassociation.co.uk, as are raffle tickets.

LT: Anything else in the pipeline for the remainder of 2015?

DB: We are currently putting together a definitive guide for head teachers and governors on how to specify school uniform to get maximum value and ensure inclusiveness.

At the same time, we are also trying to help reduce the waste and chaos that misinformed or late decisions can bring. We hope that this will further raise the profile of the SA and demonstrate to schools that we are here to help. The guide will include resources to help schools persuade parents of the value arguments and to understand the benefits of having dedicated suppliers stocking all-year-round in all shapes and sizes. And we will continue to campaign, lobby, inform and educate everyone with an interest in the subject about the importance of quality school-specific uniform.

OCTOBER 2015 - 66