CWB MAGAZINE OCTOBER ISSUE 90

a fresh look at kids’ fashion, footwear and lifestyle products

childrenSwear Buyer: www.cwb-online.co.uk october 2014 issue 90 £9.95

The Schoolwear Show exclusive insight into the event’s offer for Back to School 2015 The inS and ouTS of exporT investigating opportunities in overseas markets for uK schoolwear suppliers charleS KirK anniverSary how the business has evolved over the last 75 years

CONTENTS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

20

CONT ENTS: 16

52

43 REGULARS

FEATURES

SCHOOLWEAR

05: Comment

12: The bigger picture How to get product presentation online

32: News

06: News 08: NCWA 10: Open for business Legal and business advice plus industry opinion 14: Retail Therapy Store profiles and retail news 16: Brands to Watch Editor’s pick of brands 26: Style Guide Rainwear

20: Mini Moda s/s 15 footwear The key styles from Mini Moda’s s/s 15 footwear offering 24: Christmas gift guide Festive gift ideas for kids, available to get in-store now

36: The ins and outs of export Investigating the opportunities in overseas markets for UK schoolwear suppliers 38: Prepare to export The British Exporters Association’s (BExA) recommendations for a new exporter 43: The Schoolwear Show preview Highlights of what is on offer at the event for Back to School 2015 52: Charles Kirk anniversary How the business has evolved over the last 75 years

28: Laura Loves The coolest products for kids 58: Talking Point: Timothy Charles

Front cover: Trutex 01200 421202 www.trutex.com October 2014 - 03

Photography: Sonya Hurtado, sonyahurtado.co.uk

A great mix of children’s products A unique buying experience

1 & 2 February 2015 Business Design Centre, London

Apply online now, or register for free tickets at bubblelondon.com Read our blog, follow our twitter and become a fan!

COMMENT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

COM MENT: The countdown is on for the 2014 edition of The Schoolwear Show – the industry’s annual trade exhibition, and the uK’s only trade event dedicated solely to the independent schoolwear retailer.

October is CWB’s dedicated schoolwear edition, coordinated with the industry’s annual trade exhibition, The Schoolwear Show. As part of this issue’s content, therefore, we have an exclusive preview of the event, which takes place on 12-14 October. Starting on page 43, the preview serves retailers and buyers with a head start in terms of what’s new product-wise for Back to School 2015.

Also worth noting is the Schoolwear Association’s annual fundraising evening, which takes place on Monday 13 October, following the second day of the exhibition.

This year’s Roaring 20s themed occasion will take place at Hogarths Hotel in Solihull and consists of a sit down meal, 20s-style entertainment, dancing and a fundraising auction. Last-minute tickets are still available, so if you haven’t already, why not opt in and take the opportunity to socialise, network and help raise funds to support the Association’s work?

Furthermore, in the schoolwear section this issue we look at the topic of exporting schoolwear overseas in our feature on page 36.

For those considering the possibility of export, don’t miss our top 20 recommendations for a new exporter on page 38, and you may also be interested to learn more about the UK Trade & Investment (UKTI) Export Week, which takes place on 10-14 November. Offering practical advice on doing business overseas through workshops, seminars and market briefings, the sixth event of its kind is aimed at businesses starting their export journey, as well as those seeking to increase their international business, too. It will include over 70 events across the UK, with the flagship roadshow ExploreExport touring 11 venues across England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland. Over 120 UKTI trade officers

Editor Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Contributors Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Editorial assistant Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com Sub editor Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com Designers Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com Sales manager Helen Hodson helen@ras-publishing.com Subscriptions Laura Martindale laura.martindale@ite-exhibitions.com Head of childrenswear Lindsay Hoyes lindsay@ras-publishing.com Production director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com Reprographics/printing Image Data Group Ltd 01482 652323

CWB is published 6 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 www.cwb-online.co.uk Copyright© 2014 CWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved.Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

worldwide will be available for one-to-one meetings to discuss their dedicated markets and the possibilities of exporting to their countries. For more information go to page 32.

Elsewhere in CWB, we continue with our series of e-commerce business advice features with our article The Bigger Picture on page 12 – which looks at how to make your products stand out online and the crucial factor quality photography plays in the success or failure of an e-commerce business.

And, while many of us probably don’t want to think about Christmas just yet, needs must, so we have compiled a buyers’ guide of kids’ gift ideas available to get in-store in time for the Christmas rush, on page 24.

Our next issue of CWB magazine is out for November/December and will see us take our first look at a/w 15, including what the key UK and overseas trade shows have in-store.

Until then, please feel free to get in touch with the CWB team by phone, email, Twitter or Facebook and keep up-to-date with all the latest industry news via www.cwb-online.co.uk.

Laura Turner Editor

CWB is a joint venture between RAS Publishing and the National Childrenswear Association.

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication CWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include WWB and MWB. RAS Publishing is an ITE Group company.

October 2014 - 05

NEWS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

CWB NEWS: acquiSiTion of hof compleTeS

dandy developmenTS Opened in February, Buckinghamshire children’s boutique The Dandy Kid has launched a website, www.thedandykid.com. Visitors can shop by category, brand, or simply search, with worldwide shipping or store collection available.

Each week, editorial introduces users to a featured brand, alongside competitions, a blog, and guest posts on everything from design to parenting. The website has also provided a platform to showcase two of the retailer’s latest brands, both from Finland – Metsola, for which it has secured the UK exclusive and Papu Stories, for which it is the first stockist.

Furthermore, the shop has recently been refurbished and extended, accommodating the retailer’s weekly drop-in sessions such as ante/postnatal care and an under-fives club, with baby yoga and massage sessions launching later in the year.

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Last month, House of Fraser’s parent company, Highland Group Holdings, completed the sale of around 89 per cent of its business to Nanjing Cenbest, a subsidiary of Sanpower Group and a leading chain of luxury Chinese department stores.

Estimated to be a £480m deal, the acquisition will allow House of Fraser’s management team to continue growing and investing in the business in the UK and Ireland, providing a platform to expand the brand in international markets, and also further develop multichannel, stores and premium fashion.

On completion of the transaction, Don McCarthy, executive chairman of House of Fraser, stepped down from his role.

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royal mail TeSTS Sunday Service Royal Mail is trialling a Sunday delivery service aimed at shoppers unable to collect online purchases during the week. The pilot scheme includes the opening of 100 of its busiest delivery offices from 12pm to 4pm, and Sunday deliveries to addresses within the M25 motorway.

David Selinger, CEO of omnichannel personalisation company RichRelevance, explains how independents can capitalise on this development. “For independent retailers to win the war against e-commerce giants like Amazon, they need to shift their approach from just ‘multichannel’ to truly ‘omnichannel’. Their success lies in the ability to create a seamless shopping experience between online, mobile and physical stores. Royal Mail’s Sunday deliveries opens up a fair battleground for independent retailers to compete.”

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chriSTmaS 2014 SaleS forecaST

expanSion for cuddledry Due to rapid sales growth, new partnerships and forthcoming product launches, Cuddledry has expanded its team with four new appointments.

The bath, swim and beach product and gift brand has appointed Louise Shroff as account manager for the UK and independent retailers; Becky Robinson as UK sales manager; Charlotte Campbell as UK key accounts manager and Tracy Andrews as marketing manager.

Cuddledry’s expansion over the last year includes recent launches in the Middle East and South Africa, with its international sales more than doubling in the last year. UK sales figures, meanwhile, are projected to increase by 30-40 per cent in 2014-2015.

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Market research provider Mintel predicts a total retail sales increase of three per cent for Christmas 2014, taking retail sales up to £36.5bn. Commenting on the forecast, Mintel’s director of retail Richard Perks, says, “Non-food retailers will see stronger growth of around 3.5 per cent, helped by some displacement of spending from food to non-food categories.

Fewer non-food purchases and impulse buys will be made from grocery superstores, so specialists such as clothing retailers and department stores will have greater opportunity.

“Mintel’s consumer research backs up our expectations of a strong performance for online sales, with a survey in January showing 25 per cent of consumers plan to shop online more at Christmas 2014 than in 2013. Our recent e-commerce report also found 41 per cent of consumers are shopping via smartphones and 35 per cent via tablets. Mobile devices are making it easier for consumers to shop anytime, anywhere, bolstering growth in internet sales.

While online retail sales will be up by around 14 per cent year-on-year, store-based retailers will account for the majority of these internet sales.”

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charvin JameS SecureS Key accounTS Sales agency Charvin James, which specialises in luxury French brands, has secured a number of new, high-profile stockists for products it represents in the UK. The firm, which was established last year by Kathy Charvin and Karen James, has agreed for the brand La Marelle to be stocked in Harrods.

The label offers a range of children’s toys, jewellery, bags, gifts and stationery featuring illustrations from artists such as Ingela P Arrhenius. Also, Childrensalon.com for Les Enfantines, a childrenswear brand created by a granddaughter of the Lanvin family; Selfridges concession Step2wo for the designer children’s shoe and clothing collection BBK; and AlexandAlexa.com for L’Oiseau Bateau, a backpack, baby cushion and night light brand.

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NEWS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

Shop vacancy raTe dropS

KidSen TargeTS Tween marKeT Scandinavian-inspired children’s store Kidsen extended its age range last month with the launch of clothing and footwear for tweens.

The retailer, which has a store in Kensal Rise, North West London, and a web shop at www.kidsen co.uk, is stocking select items up to age 16 years from brands such as Little Remix, Finger in the Nose and LA Loi (pictured). The footwear range, meanwhile, now includes styles up to size 40 from labels including Hummel, Manuela and Bisgaard.

“My original Kidsen customer has grown up, but their parents still want a destination shop where they can find cool Scandinavian brands that their tweens love as much as they do,” says Kidsen founder Corina Papadopoulou. “I have spent time putting together a wearable collection with an edgy feel to appeal to tweens with a sense of style. It includes items not only from existing brands I stock, but new ones, too.”

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BarBour STrengThenS managemenT Team British heritage label Barbour has strengthened its senior management team with the creation of two new roles – head of distribution and head of global e-commerce, reflecting the continued growth and success of the brand.

Paul Johnson Barnett joins as head of distribution, managing all of Barbour’s global distribution, and will work alongside the global supply chain as the business expands worldwide.

David Cottage, meanwhile, joins the brand as head of global e-commerce. Cottage will work closely with Paul Wilkinson, global head of marketing to develop the success of the label online.

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newS in Brief

Recent figures from The Local Data Company reveal Britain’s shop vacancy rate fell in August to 13.3 per cent from 13.4 per cent in July, which is the lowest level since June 2010. Additionally, the overall retail and leisure vacancy rate decreased from 11.9 per cent to 11.8 per cent.

Matthew Hopkinson, director at The Local Data Company, says, “The drop in vacancy rates to pre-June 2010 levels is significant and reflects the changes taking place in Britain’s town centres in response to the challenges thrown at them since 2009.

“This improvement equates to over 400 new businesses opening in August. It also reflects an increase in demolished properties and those under development, which may be as a result of change in use or reconfiguration of existing retail space.”

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moTher and daughTer faShion The new a/w 14-15 collection from luxury British kids’ fashion brand Lazy Francis includes limited-edition Mummy & Me sets.

To celebrate the relationship between mums and daughters, the label has produced some of the season’s key pieces in women’s and girls’ sizes to allow mothers and daughters to match their outfits. The Mummy & Me collection is available in European sizes 36 and 38 for mums, and 92-152 for daughters.

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aBercromBie KidS’ firST uK flagShip Abercrombie Kids, a division of Abercrombie & Fitch Co, recently opened its first flagship store in the UK. Located at 3 Savile Row, London W1, the premises, which date back to 1733, are famous for being home to The Beatles’ Apple Records headquarters and also where the band played its last public performance.

Residing across the street from the Abercrombie & Fitch flagship store, the fully renovated shop showcases three levels of clothing and accessories for boys and girls in addition to iconic memorabilia including photos, books, records and a guitar signed by Sir Paul McCartney.

Later this year, Abercrombie Kids will host an event at the Savile Row store in aid of Great Ormond Street Hospital Children’s Charity. In honour of the evening, the brand will make a donation of £25,000, which will be given to the charity to help rebuild and refurbish Great Ormond Street Hospital and fund research into better treatments for children across the UK. —

– Elfie, a homegrown British childrenswear brand of clothing, footwear and accessories for boys and girls aged newborn to eight years, is launching into Selfridges London this autumn. The a/w 14 collection, available this month, includes collared coats and frocks, traditional Fair Isle knitwear, partywear, shirts, shorts, rompers, booties and bonnets. The label was established in 2010 by sisters Victoria Roper-Curzon and Rafaela Van Der Heyden.

luxury merino from aden + anaiS In partnership with The Woolmark Company, baby swaddle specialist aden + anais has combined its muslin weave with merino wool to launch its Pure Merino Muslin collection.

Comprising a swaddling blanket, sleeping bag, “dream blanket” and security blanket, the collection is available in three ombre patterns – sunset, seaside, horizon – all of which are individually hand-dyed. Each product is presented in a keepsake box with a picture frame built into the lid to house baby photos.

Naturally breathable, merino wool makes an efficient temperature regulator by absorbing moisture vapour next to the skin to help children feel dry. When the vapour evaporates, it maintains a constant, comfortable temperature.

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– Established last year, The Littles Store is a new UK brand of kids’ sleepwear and underwear. The label offers illustrated artwork digitally printed onto fuss-free apparel for ages 18-24 months through to 5-6 years. Bedding will also be added to the collection before Christmas. Wholesale prices range from £3 to £20. For more information visit www.thelittlesstore.com.

– US childrenswear label Quirkie Kids has launched a new range of pink short-sleeve T-shirts and pink baby onesies for girls and boys. Brand founder Martine Zoer launched the pink unisex range to counteract gender stereotyping in childrenswear. “Quirkie Kids is about more than just pink tees,” says Zoer. “It’s about encouraging kids to embrace their uniqueness and giving both boys and girls more options to express themselves through their clothing.”

October 2014 - 07

NCWA NEWS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

NCWA NEWS: The latest news from the National Childrenswear Association EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S COMMENT: Have you looked at the NCWA’s retailer training videos yet?

Presented by NCWA vice president Jackie Cook, the series of seven videos covers identifying your customer, what your story is, what you should spend, where you should trade, what you should look like and allocating your budget.

Each video is only a few minutes long and the speed of downloading has been increased dramatically, so it is easy to look at, for example, one every day. Although the videos are aimed principally at retailers, if you are a manufacturer, supplier or agent you will also learn from them, as they give an insight into your customers’ concerns and priorities. It may be that you can also offer help (additional publicity material, different ranges) and advice.

The introductory video is on the public part of NCWA’s website, so anyone can look at it.

If you want to watch the other videos, you have to be a member of NCWA. Details of how to apply are on the website – www.ncwa.co.uk – and you can even join online.

The built-in obsolescence of computer and other electronic equipment is a bugbear to many, if not all of us. On the other hand, continuous improvements to IT and websites can help us forge ahead of our competitors and provide a better service to customers. Recent work on the NCWA’s website not only increased the speed of downloading the videos, but it has also helped us refine the way in which we send information, by e-mail, to all our members.

While computer and website companies will always be happy to sell you more, it is worth exploring what changes and improvements might be made, often at reasonable cost.

It is easy to research the type of thing that might be available – you only have to look at other companies’ websites on the internet. Looking outside of childrenswear and even outside of fashion and clothing may give you even more ideas.

Finally, NCWA members should not forget to keep their details on their free page on the NCWA website up-to-date.

Although much of our communication with members is via e-mail, the NCWA knows how many of our members appreciate receiving something in the post, which can then be written on and easily read on public transport. Our recent newsletter contained information on the National Minimum Wage, both the rates that apply from 1 October and the consultation on next year’s rates. (In a General Election year, the NMW takes on more significance.) It also covered forthcoming exhibitions (The Schoolwear Show, Bubble and Textile Forum) and a report on the July edition of Bubble, details of our next seminar on the Safety of Childrenswear and reminded members of their obligations under the legislation on auto enrolment into workplace pensions.

For information on any or all of what NCWA can offer you, do contact Michelle Payne, tel: 020 7843 9488 or e-mail: info@ncwa.co.uk. NCWA is based at 3 Queen Square, London WC1N 3AR.

BUBBLE AND SQUEAK Love Stamford retail centre, Stamford, Lincolnshire Selling boys and girls clothes from newborn to 11 years including casual, nightwear, swimwear and party outfits, Bubble and Squeak stocks a wide range of labels such as Name It, Lilly & Sid, Kite, Mayoral and Bilibib. The retailer also sells a range of gifts and stocks toy brands Orchard Toys, Manhattan Toy and Bigjigs Toys.

Fresh from a relocation to the Love Stamford retail centre, the shop is now among other independent retailers, a coffee bar and a large children’s play area in an emporium style setup. www.bubbleandsqueakstamford.co.uk

MY TINY TIDDLERS Joint owners Tola and Abiola Lamina established online store My Tiny Tiddlers in May 2013.

Focusing on chic and trendy looks for special occasions, the retailer stocks smart and casual attire for boys and girls. Key brands include Andy & Evan, Boboli, Sweet Kids and Jelly the Pug. My Tiny Tiddlers plans to support local talent by showcasing more British brands and increasing the footwear range. The retailer will be exhibiting at BabyExpo Baby Show in Berkshire on 29 November. www.mytinytiddlers.co.uk

NCWA Council: Chairman SHARON BEARDSWORTH Emile et Rose Manufacturer Vice Chairman DAVID HULL Agent Imm Past Chairman DAVID BURGESS David Luke Ltd Manufacturer Treasurer COLIN WILSON

Make your voice heard

Council Members: NUALA MCKENNA Nuala McKenna Agencies Agent. DIANE SHAW Agent. SARAH TAYLOR Agent.

RAY WILLIAMS Agent. HANNAH MCHALICK Oh Baby London Manufacturer.

MALCOLM TRAVIS Travis Designs Manufacturer. RACHEL RILEY Rachel Riley Manufacturer.

JANETTE REED Cotswold Kids Retailer. VIRGINIA ROSS Pollyanna Retailer.

JILLIAN PETRIE Young Trend Retailer. MARK BARNETT Barnett Agencies Agent.

President: KEN SCATES Marketing consultant Vice Presidents: LESLEY FALLON Retail consultant JACKIE COOK Retail consultant Executive Director: ELIZABETH FOX

• Membership is open to everyone involved in the British childrenswear industry.

• Associate membership, open to non-British organisations, is now available.

Read our blog and follow us on Twitter

• Membership costs from £85.

October 2014 - 08

NCWA NEWS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

hSTTS JoinS mTS gloBal group

Blade & roSe exTendS offer

Modern Testing Services (MTS Global) has become the majority shareholder in High Street Textile Testing Services (HSTTS UK), making HSTTS the second largest laboratory in the UK. “This is an exciting and historic time for the laboratory,” says Paul Jones, managing director of HSTTS. “Our business in the UK has grown by over 150 per cent in the past seven years and, becoming part of the MTS Global Group, it will significantly enhance our global offering to our UK retailers and customers. High Street will continue to offer its no-nonsense approach to getting the product to market and supporting retailers and their suppliers in the UK and globally.”

MTS Global is an independent provider of technical services to the retail, supplier and manufacturing communities of consumer products, with laboratories and offices in 20 countries worldwide. It offers a full range of services and testing including footwear, toys and chemical testing as well as a range of social and ethical audits and factory/manufacturing audits and inspections.

Blade & Rose, a UK brand of innovative baby leggings with designs on the bottoms, as well as clothing and accessories, has released a host of new products for a/w.

Highlights include 10 new designs of baby leggings with matching two-pack socks. For boys, colourful and stylish new designs include a rocket, blue whale, fire engine, tank and monster.

New designs for girls, meanwhile, incorporate a new range of animal friends including a ladybird, mouse and a pink whale. Leggings are available in sizes 0-6 months, 6-12 months, 1-2 years and 3-4 years. Reversible dribble bibs, fleece-lined bobble hats and a unisex branded top with a star design have also been introduced to the a/w offer.

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flying colourS for holly & Beau Children’s rainwear brand Holly & Beau has won the Innovation of the Year prize at the Nectar Business Small Business Awards 2014. The judging panel of five included star of BBC1’s The Apprentice, Karren Brady CBE. Holly & Beau products change colour when they come into contact with water, returning to their original colour when dry. The company won the Innovation of the Year Award for its demonstration of an innovative concept that meets a consumer need, as well as the opportunities it presented for further growth outside of its current market.

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emile eT roSe emBraceS digiTal

TamiKo launcheS new producTS

British babywear label Emile et Rose has launched a new website with a stronger focus on retailer support.

Presenting the brand’s new autumn stock, the new www.emile-et-rose.co.uk website provides a cleaner looking, more streamlined version of its former self. It is better integrated with social-media platforms Twitter and Facebook and includes added perks such as details of new stock arrivals into the warehouse, bestsellers and promoted items. Company news will now also be communicated to retailers via email.

A key improvement for consumers visiting the website, meanwhile, includes the ability to quickly and easily be directed to a local stockist via a new “where to buy” option.

Launched in 2013 for premature – “preemie” – babies and newborns in neonatal intensive care units (NICU), baby brand Tamiko is now extending its offer to cater for those up to two years of age.

The new line, available this month, is made of organic cotton, including the blankets in organic cotton with a lambs wool fleece texture.

The brand’s core “preemie” line, meanwhile, is defined by its easy access for NICU equipment, which enables nurses and parents to easily care for the babies.

For more information and to read reviews from parents of “preemie” babies who have used Tamiko visit www.nicuwear.com.

Bureau veriTaS’ new TeSTing aBiliTieS Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services UK, which has a UKAS-accredited laboratory in Cheshire, has newly developed testing capabilities for allergic disperse dyes.

Disperse dyes are organic dyes of low water solubility, suitable for dyeing fibres such as polyester, nylon and acrylic. Around 20 disperse dyes have been identified as having the potential to cause an allergic reaction when in contact with the skin. They aren’t legislatively banned in Europe, but many retailers have restricted the presence of these dyes in their products in order to protect customers from potential contact dermatitis.

Bureau Veritas, therefore, is offering textile retailers, brands, vendors and manufacturers a fast testing service for 22 allergenic disperse dyes following the German method DIN 54231.

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newS in Brief

— Soft leather baby shoe and toddler slipper brand Starchild has launched a Liberty fabric baby shoe range. Other highlights from the collection incorporating classic fabrics include tweed and paisley. Starchild shoes have been designed and handmade in the brand’s factory in England since 2000. Using soft, high-quality leather produced in partnership with traditional Italian tanneries, Starchild shoes feature no harmful chemicals or dyes and conform to EU safety and product standards.

— Fashion Textile & Children’s Trust (FTCT) is calling upon members of the industry to run the annual fundraising Do it for Charity Santa Run on its behalf.

With 5k or 10k course options available, individuals of all running abilities and ages can get involved in the event, which takes place at London’s Victoria Park on 7 December. Every runner, jogger or walker will be provided with a free Santa suit. To sign-up visit www.ftct.org.uk.

— Children’s UV swimwear brand Platypus Australia has launched a Terry Towelling range available for boys and girls. The new line includes a cover-up and tunic.

Designed to mix and match, Platypus Australia’s sun-protective swimwear collection for boys and girls includes rash guards, swimsuits and matching beachwear. Using a UPF 50+ rating, the brand’s garments block out at least 97.5 per cent of harmful ultraviolet radiation.

October 2014 - 09

BUSINESS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

Open for BUSINESS Bringing you straight-talking legal and business advice.

legal advice

reTail advice

laura lumBy associate, fox williams llp

Tony BryanT head of business development, K3 retail

www.fashionlaw.co.uk www.agentlaw.co.uk

www.k3retail.com

THE WAY THE COOKIES CRUMBLE An informal review of the websites of various businesses referred to in the August edition of CWB found that only half of these businesses have policies relating to the use of cookies on their websites. Even less so have registered with the Information Commissioner’s Office (ICO) as a data controller of personal information.

Why do these issues matter?

The use of cookies is regulated in the UK by certain privacy and electronic communication regulations (the Regulations) designed to protect the privacy of internet users. The ICO is responsible for enforcing compliance with the Regulations and has the power to take action where necessary. This includes: (i) committing a business to a particular course of action in order to improve its compliance with the Regulations; (ii) compelling a business to take action to bring about compliance with the Regulations; and (iii) although unlikely, fining a business up to £500,000 But the non-legal consequences of not complying with the Regulations should be of equal concern to businesses.

So what are cookies? Cookies are small files downloaded onto a device such as a computer, tablet or mobile phone when the user accesses certain websites. Cookies collect information about the user’s internet activity including their user preferences. The Regulations apply to all information collected by cookies, including personal data. However, where cookies collect personal data such as the user’s name, postal address or email address, businesses need to ensure that they comply with the additional requirements of the UK Data Protection Act. In addition, any business collecting personal data through its

website should have an online privacy policy setting out the business’ practice in relation to the collection, storage and use of that personal data.

The Regulations require that users are told about the cookies placed on a website and given the choice as to which of their online activities are monitored in this way. A cookie may only be used if users have given their consent having been provided with clear and comprehensive information about the purpose of that cookie. Consent must involve some form of communication where the user knowingly indicates their acceptance – obtaining consent that relies on a user’s ignorance about what they are agreeing is unlikely to comply with the Regulations.

Between April and June 2014, the ICO received 38 concerns reported about cookies. The ICO has stated that it is taking a practical and proportionate approach in enforcing the Regulations where organisations are making the effort to comply. However, its current focus is on ensuring compliance with the Regulations by websites that are doing nothing to raise awareness of cookies, or to obtain the user’s consent to the use of various cookies. The ICO will look unfavourably on a business with a casual approach to data protection and the privacy of its customers, particularly at a time of heightened interest following, for example, the trial of Rebekah Brooks and Andy Coulson.

What do you need to do to comply? As a first step, if you have an online presence you should undertake a “cookie audit” to assess the cookies used on your website, and the purposes of each cookie. Once identified, you will be able to consider more easily how to comply with the Regulations. © Fox Williams LLP 2014

Retailers need to adapt to the ever-evolving needs of the consumer to remain relevant in a multi-channel marketplace that is dictated by fast-moving trends – fuelled by a heady mix of celebrity culture, catwalk couture and heightened demand for transitional pieces.

A single view of the concept-to-consumer process can create shorter decision cycles, improving responsiveness throughout the supply chain to get “hot off the runway” products to market quickly.

With such a fast-paced turnaround, the life cycle of fashion products is invariably short and complex. Timing these life cycles, especially when there are multiple items within the process, can maximise revenues and minimise risk. Integrated product data and life cycle management models are an important weapon in the fashion retailers’ armoury; getting products to rails faster, while controlling timely markdowns. This pull-and-push mechanic ensures a seamless flow of hot-to-trot stock is available at any one time, stimulating demand and encouraging repeat custom.

As the trend for transitional items grows, so will the need for retailers to adopt more frequent delivery drops throughout the season.

A unified view of stock order management can increase targeted deliveries, based on historic sales data, while providing an “at a glance” overview of the availability of existing items and variants across different channels.

Rather than one size fits all approach, retail technology embodies expression, without constraint or compromise. Ax|is Fashion from K3 is a concept-to-consumer solution, built on Microsoft Dynamics for Retail and further enhanced to meet the unique and exacting needs of the fashion and apparel industry. Providing one solution that works across all the elements in the value chain, it delivers even more agility and insight for retailers who are looking to quickstep with fast fashion.

October 2014 - 10

BUSINESS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

Three children’s footwear independents discuss their business strategies and evaluate trade over the year.

KaTe Bouverie

andrea afrifa

Karina Tyrer

owner, The elves & the Shoemaker, Tenterden, Kent

owner, Stampede, Tunbridge wells, Kent

owner, Stomp, Shaftesbury, dorset

Which are your bestselling brands?

Ricosta always sells extremely well, as does Petasil – particularly the stitch-down styles as parents love the traditional look.

Bobux is another brand that flies off the shelves. The brand’s first “step up” shoes are perfect for little feet. And of course Lelli Kelly school shoes are very popular. We probably sell most to pre-school children.

But we also have customers right up to their teens, particularly for winter boots and school shoes.

How much advice do parents seek from you regarding foot health and footwear choices?

The amount of advice parents seek varies wildly, but customers do often get referred to us by podiatrists as we are known for our care in fitting.

What are older kids after at the moment in terms of footwear fashion trends?

Kickers are fashionable for school and anything chunky like Dr Martens. We have done well this season with a Petasil school shoe that looks a bit like a leather Converse style – popular with boys and girls.

How have you made your store child-friendly?

We have always had a little table and chairs with toys and books, and our Ikea vegetable cushions are hugely popular. Children come to play more than to buy shoes; it’s hard to get them to leave sometimes! Parents love the relaxed vibe in our shop.

Overall, how has business fared this year, and how do sales compare to last year’s?

Business has been quite slow this year. The lack of a hard winter slowed down sales of boots, and all the rain earlier this year kept people at home. However, Back to School has been very busy, so hopefully sales will continue well into the autumn. Sales are a little up on last year’s.

What is your product mix in-store?

We offer children’s footwear for most occasions, focusing on the everyday. Key brands include Start-rite, Ricosta, Petasil, Geox, Converse, Vans, Skechers, Lelli Kelly, Crocs, Primigi and Hush Puppies. Our bread and butter is our strong school shoe trade.

Which are your bestselling brands?

Converse is popular for the teens and mums, while Geox is still very popular with our juniors, and Start-rite remains a favourite for school shoes. We have a prep school nearby and the pupils wear brown school shoes – Petasil offers us the styles for these shoes.

How have you made your store child-friendly?

The shop is themed throughout in our bright range of core colours, with bespoke jungle-like shelves. We have balloons, lollies and gifts available for purchase. For the kids, we have a fish tank, building blocks, toys and books plus a customer loo and changing area.

How much advice do parents seek from you regarding foot health and footwear choices?

Parents look to us for advice when buying shoes. They trust us to fit their children correctly and value our honesty. We would never sell shoes that don’t fit just to get a sale, or that the child doesn’t need because their current shoes still fit.

Do you have in-store events to help engage your customers with your staff and products?

We have held fashion evenings in the past, but the last couple of years have got so busy, and it’s hard to find time to do extra in-store activities. All our time and effort goes into keeping the store stocked. We engage with our customers via email nowadays, with over 5,000 subscribed shoppers. It’s the best way of keeping them informed on new items and arrivals and allows us to run special promotions, too.

How much focus do you put on window displays and merchandising?

As we are located on the A26, which leads you into the heart of Tunbridge Wells, there is a permanent traffic jam outside. I employ window dressers to get creative with our huge windows and change them every six weeks or so. It’s very important.

Overall, how has business fared this year?

And how do sales compare to last year’s?

So far so good. January and February were tough, but we have met and exceeded all our targets and are looking at making an overall annual increase of between two and five per cent.

Do you offer any loyalty and payment schemes to help retain customers?

We offer a loyalty card to every customer.

For each pair of shoes purchased they have a card stamped. After six pairs they are entitled to a discount; most customers save these up to use against winter boots or shoes.

In terms of footwear fashion trends, how do you cater for the older kids?

We are now in our seventh year of trading and we have seen our young customers mature over these years into their teens and beyond. We have tried to grow with them and that’s why Converse and Vans are very popular. I visit Moda and Bubble London, although not every season, to keep an eye on the trends. We have good relationships with all our brand account managers and they are always excellent at showing us the styles that they think will work for us. So far it has worked, but I always listen to my customers and take note of what they are looking for.

Most parents are looking for good-quality stylish shoes that will not fall apart and that their children love, too.

— For more industry opinion visit www.cwb-online.co.uk

October 2014 - 11

E-COMMERCE PHOTOGRAPHY | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

ThE BiggEr piCTurE The quality of photography can be a crucial factor in the success or failure of an e-commerce business, so getting the product presentation right should be top of the agenda for any online business. as part of cwB’s e-commerce business advice series, isabella griffiths chats to two leading experts about the dos and don’ts, and how to make your products stand out online.

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In e-commerce, the quality of a website and product presentation is the online equivalent of the fascia and shop window of a bricks-and-mortar store and instantly tells a story about how credible and professional a business is.

Appealing photography is part and parcel of having an attractive website. But it’s not just about aesthetics – presenting products in high-quality images can be the deciding factor between an empty basket or a sale. It is, therefore, crucial for anyone with an online presence to consider the strength of their product presentation – and not just as an afterthought.

“Good product photography is vital for any online store. You’ve got to come as close as you can to replicating the in-store experience online,” says John Whalley, group creative director at Photolink Creative Group, one of the leading agencies specialising in product photography, design and strategy for e-commerce businesses.

“A lot of start-ups or smaller businesses make the fundamental error of underestimating the importance of their photography,” he continues. “But one bad picture can destroy any first impression, and is ultimately a reflection of your brand and store. You have got to be ambitious when it comes to product presentation. If you look at

the best websites out there, they are investing more and more money in product presentation, and that’s for a reason, because there is a direct link between good photography and conversion rates.”

This is mirrored by Lee Friend, CEO and executive producer at Packshot and its fashion arm Fashot, the UK’s largest provider of professional photography to the e-commerce sector, with studios across the UK and several international bases.

“A lot of businesses forget to budget for photography, especially smaller ones that are facing big start-up costs,” he says. “But it’s something that needs to be taken seriously and seen as part of the overall investment. The e-commerce sector – especially fashion – is so competitive nowadays that no business, regardless of size, can afford to lag behind.

The difference between good and great product presentation is not that dramatic but, if your presentation is bad, it instantly shows and can have a big impact on your sales.”

It’s often the cost factor that leaves retailers unsure about their approach to product presentation and tempts some businesses into cutting corners – at the wrong end, as both experts agree. “In terms of investment, there is no one size fits all approach; it depends on each individual business,” says Whalley. “But professional

photography is not as expensive as people might think, especially when you consider the impact on your sales. Professional studios have the set-up and can process any volume of images. It goes without saying that the more styles we process, the more cost effective it gets. But even smaller businesses shouldn’t be scared of approaching professional companies, as they might be surprised just how worthwhile it is.”

Friend agrees, “It essentially boils down to a simple mathematical exercise as to what kind of photography set-up you can afford and what is right for your business. If it costs you £15 to shoot your garment, but it only retails for £20 or £30, then the figures don’t stack up. But if you’re selling a £300 garment, a £15 investment does make commercial sense, as the better your photography, the more likely it is that you will sell it and avoid returns.”

While employing the services of a professional photography studio may be the ideal scenario, it’s not uncommon for retailers to opt for an in-house set-up. And, while both Friend and Whalley don’t dispute that this can certainly work for businesses, too, they do warn that it also needs to bring professional results, as a visible DIY approach can be detrimental.

“There are advantages to both set-ups,” October 2014 - 12

E-COMMERCE PHOTOGRAPHY | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

JOHN WHALLEY

says Whalley. “A professional studio like ours processes thousands of images every month and has years of experience, so there is a certain methodology to what we do that can’t be easily replicated in a back room of a store somewhere.

“There are different layers of expertise that come into play, too – not just the photography aspect itself, but also the sample management and ensuring that each style is correctly presented, styled, labelled and accessorised properly etc,” he continues.

“There’s nothing worse than not knowing how to style and accessorise a garment for online and it showing on the picture. The difference between an amateur and professional result is also in post-production – we put a lot of effort into ensuring colour balances and an accurate representation of a garment, which is crucial in avoiding a disappointed customer and returns.”

This is mirrored by Friend, “There’s more to successful product presentation than just the image – it also needs to be captioned properly, have appealing product copy and be professionally SEO embedded etc.”

In terms of presentation styles, approaches vary from site to site between simple product shots, ghost-effect cut-outs, garments on mannequins, models or 360-degree rotation to catwalk and other videos. According to Friend, each presentation style has its advantages, with a mixture of methods the most desirable, though he concedes that not every business needs an all-singing and all-dancing approach, as long as the overall effect is professional, clean and consistent.

“You don’t always need something fancy, and you don’t always need 10 images per garment to create good product presentation,” he says. “There are advantages to all of the

different styles used across fashion sites – a simple product shot on a mannequin can work perfectly fine. It often gives better results than a model, because you can’t pin a model! As long as the product is presented clean and professionally, the effect is the same.

“A model shot or video is good for showing how a garment hangs, but it obviously creates additional costs in terms of model, styling and make-up etc,” he continues. “There’s also an argument for and against using faces of models in shots. Aside from the obvious styling issue, you have to consider whether a model – and what kind of model – is right to represent the clientele of your business. Essentially, customers want to see the front, the back and any key defining features of a garment in a detail shot – these are the basics that you need to get right. Use white backgrounds and clean shots and as unobstructed as possible. Some retailers go for fancy backgrounds and gimmicks – keep it clean and leave the dramatics to your web design.”

Whalley paints a similar picture. “The perfect scenario is to have a mixture of styles,” he says. “In terms of stills, you need the front, the back, a detail shot and one hung on a model or a mannequin.

“The next stage would be to produce a video, whether it’s a catwalk or just a simple 360-degree turn, so the consumer can appreciate how the garment hangs and moves,” he continues. “Video drives most conversions – it has been statistically proven.

Recent research has shown that 57 per cent of consumers say they are more inclined to buy something after watching a video of a garment. In terms of costs, video is far less of an expensive step-up than people might imagine, because of the technology that nowadays exists on cameras. It’s very easy for

LEE FRIEND

us to switch to video mode while we’re shooting, so the investment in video is far less significant than people might assume.

There is a common misconception among smaller retailers that they can’t do what the big guys are doing. But the results that businesses can get even on a smaller scale aren’t too far removed from what the market leaders are achieving.”

Whalley agrees with Friend that a consistent methodology, however, is key in the overall presentation online, whatever the final set-up may be. “Inconsistency is the main thing that can damage the confidence of a shopper,” he says. “It often happens when retailers use a mixture of supplied and own images, which can make a site look messy and the product unappealing. You need to have a style and process, and it needs to be consistent. You wouldn’t present messy merchandise in-store, so why would you do it online?”

Whalley’s top tips for anyone venturing into e-commerce are based around four core rules: 1. Try to recreate the physical in-store experience as effectively as possible online – that means having good silhouette images, 360-degree overviews, garments on models or mannequins and close-ups to get a better feel for a style; 2. Take advantage of technology and make it work for you – deliver something that you couldn’t do in-store, such as advice from the designer, style guides to trends and branded films etc. Make it informative and inspirational; 3. Give your customer the confidence to shop with you online – it’s sometimes difficult for a consumer to reach the final decision to buy, so provide more information, better product description and demonstrations to give them the assurance to click and buy; 4. Deliver a good overall experience – make the site usable, fast and efficient and present Garment A with different views and angles, and expect to do exactly the same for Garment B, so your style is consistent and strong.

“Retailers get so caught up in heavy investment in SEO, PPC (pay per click), left or right navigation or fancy web design that they lose sight of the fact that the only thing that’s really going to close a sale is whether a product looks appealing or not,” says Whalley.

October 2014 - 13

RETAIL | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

RETAIL ThErapy we reveal our favourite independent boutiques as well as news and store events from the world of childrenswear retail.

laura loveS

NIDDLE NODDLE 5 Topsfield Parade, Crouch End, London N8 Eilidh Fraser and Katrine Camillo co-launched kids’ online fashion and lifestyle boutique, Niddle Noddle, four years ago. Last September, they opened a bricks-and-mortar store in London’s Crouch End, where they showcase their curated offer of kids’ clothing, footwear, accessories, toys and décor.

Niddle Noddle was born of its owners’ shared interest in kids’ design and desire for more stable career paths since both becoming mothers. Previously, Fraser had long worked as a professional actress, and Camillo – originally from Denmark – worked in photography. Now, their joint vocation is seeking unique children’s product.

“We go to trade shows all over Europe to source exciting fresh talent,” says Fraser. “We tend to look for smaller labels that aren’t too expensive, harder to find in the UK, and sometimes we get exclusivity for our shop. We stock lots of one-off pieces from all over the world along with some of the bigger toy brands such as Djeco, Janod and Vilac but most of what we stock is unique to our shop.”

Niddle Noddle’s offer includes a wide range of pocket money toys with a traditional, retro feel, as well as genuine vintage toys.

“When customers come into our shop, many comment on the feeling of nostalgia they get seeing lots of things from their childhood,” she continues. “We try to keep the stock fresh and we are always bringing in new finds.”

The atmosphere of Niddle Noddle is relaxed and family orientated; children are encouraged to pick up and try toys – and of course try out the shop’s slide while parents browse. www.niddlenoddle.com

October 2014 - 14

RETAIL | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

THE COTTON TREE 44 Fore Street, Ilfracombe, Devon Lucy Aldridge opened Devon boutique The Cotton Tree in November 2013. Her retail career began when she was 17, working in Next’s childrenswear department. From there, she went on to The Early Learning Centre, Blacks the Outdoor Group and French Connection, finishing off as a charity shop manager for Cancer Research UK. Now the owner of her own shop, Aldridge sells organic cotton clothing for 0-6 years from labels such as Piccalilly, Frugi, Kite and Pigeon.

Toys are available from brand including Pebble and Best Years and swimwear from Rockley Cove. www.thecottontreedevon.com

POM POM BABY & KIDSWEAR

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16 Plaistow Lane, Bromley, Kent Pom Pom Baby & Kidswear provides clothing for up to six years alongside children’s furniture, accessories, footwear and toys.

Co-owned by Celia Picardo and Sylvia Hales, the independent boutique offers traditional and classic childrenswear, with particular focus on Spanish and Portuguese brands.

The origins of the store opening evolved from Picardo and Hales hosting house parties to showcase childrenswear outfits they had sourced abroad. Now, with the boutique, a workforce of four and a concession in Wrattens in Chislehurst, Kent, under their belts, the owners’ dream is to have a chain of stores and an own-brand clothing label. www.pompombaby.co.uk

MY SHINY SHOP Launched in April 2013, My Shiny Shop is owned and run by Silke Haupt, mum of three and former sales director for L’Oreal Paris.

Finding herself dissatisfied with her online shopping experiences, Haupt set out to create her own, encompassing hassle-free navigation, detailed product information, free gift wrapping and attentive customer service.

Offering a range of children’s must-haves from wardrobe essentials to gifts and bedroom accessories, My Shiny Shop has a strong focus on Dutch children’s brands as well as smaller UK labels and German brands. www.myshinyshop.com

news:

Tartine et chocolat numéro deux Parisian children’s brand Tartine et Chocolat recently opened its second London boutique.

The 75 sq m shop is located on Brompton Road in South Kensington’s French Quarter and features a new store concept including light wood, chrome, mirrors and glass. Tartine et Chocolat includes infant accessories, babywear, plush toys, furniture, a girls' and boys' collections and fragrance.

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what’s in store for Selfridges?

Selfridges’ offer for kids will see the addition of a number of new brands for a/w 14. In clothing, new names to the store are Jungera, Child-ish, Tootsa MacGinty, Anne Kurris (pictured) and Oscar de la Renta. In accessories, Les Pascalettes, Sons + Daughters and Sophie Webster Mini. There will also be an exclusive Christmas collection

by Karen Brost. Key a/w 14 kidswear themes for the retailer, meanwhile, are faux fur, tartan, plaid and checks, and badging.

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retail news in Brief: SUNDAY OPENING TIMES A national survey by ComRes for Open Sundays, a campaign group comprising consumers, shop workers and retailers, has revealed 64 per cent of British people would support a reform of the liberalisation of Sunday trading hours.

Only 16 per cent of those polled strongly opposed the concept of longer shopping hours, with the 18-24 year old demographic most supportive of full liberalisation.

CALLING ALL RETAIL AND FASHION BLOGGERS!

SLOW TOY AWARDS TEAM WITH JOHN LEWIS

Entries are now open for the National UK Blog Awards, providing an opportunity for bloggers from the retail and fashion sectors to be recognised nationwide. The inaugural National UK Blog Awards took place in London in April, seeing more than 900 bloggers enter and 16,000 members of the public vote to determine which blogs would win a finalist spot.

Enter your own blog, or nominate a blog, via www.blogawards.co.uk. Entries close on Friday 31 October.

John Lewis has been named the official partner of The Slow Toy Awards 2014.

Winners will have their product on sale at johnlewis.com, and the store’s toys and books buyer, Ian Ellis, will join the judging panel. Joining him are Kate Carter, life and style editor at the Guardian online; Liat Hughes Joshi, journalist and author; Alison Canavan, parenting specialist and model; Sally J Hall, editor of B magazine and author; and parenting blogger Jennie Henley.

October 2014 - 15

EDITOR’S PICK | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

01

BRANDS To Watch cwB editor laura Turner selects the must-have collections to get in-store.

01: ALBERT & VIKTORIA

02: URBAN MERINO

Designed and produced in the UK, Albert & Viktoria launched last year under the name LabelLamb, but has since rebranded due to all garments now being produced in cashmere rather than lambs wool. Epitomising one-off design, brand owner Delyth Collings handpicks recycled cashmere to form the colour story for each individual jumper, cardigan, dress, poncho, tank top and accessory, before applying her signature use of patchwork and appliqué detailing.

Wholesale prices £26-£54. www.albertandviktoria.com

Launching for a/w 15 is contemporary children’s fashion label, Urban Merino.

Managed and designed in the UK using New Zealand merino wool, the label caters for 0-10 years. The hero piece is a reversible hoodie, while other highlights include an envelope-neck top, “trackies” with feet, as well as a hat and booties for babies, skinny leg “trackies” for boys, and a puff-sleeve top, bolero, leggings and dress with a subtle frill for girls. Wholesale prices £7-£59. www.urban-merino.com

03: NIRVANA DEBONAIR

04: BRITT

05: ANNALIV

Boys’ clothing label Nirvana Debonair, for one to 13 years, is now available wholesale. The British brand offers creative shirt designs incorporating different coloured fabrics and patterns, with all fabrics 100 per cent cotton and all patterns unique to the label. Combining a classic look with a young twist, Nirvana Debonair plays with contrasts and colours across a range comprising seven distinct shirt styles, each with their own detailed finish.

Wholesale prices £22.50-£24.50 www.nirvanadebonair.co.uk

Established in 1999, Australian children’s brand Britt made a much-welcomed return to the UK market for s/s 15 after a period of absence. Catering for newborn to seven years, Britt has evolved over the years from its original concept of the Britt Bear – a soft, flat teddy bear – to include clothing and accessories for newborns and kids. Highlights include the Snuggles range and the whimsical Ballroom Britts collection (pictured). Wholesale prices £4-£35. www.brittbear.com.au

Annaliv offers a main collection for newborn to six years, comprising classic printed shirts, shorts, “twirling” skirts and tailored blazers alongside gifts such as its signature “bow tie in a box” for babies. Made in a traditional tailoring factory in London using organic cottons, the brand uses prints created in-house, and offers detail in the form of traditionally woven ribbon from Sweden, printed handmade embroidered designs and luxury French seam finishes.

Wholesale prices £5-£75. www.annaliv.co.uk October 2014 - 16

EDITOR’S PICK | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

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PRODUCT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

ChriSTMaS gifT guidE cwB’s selection of christmas gift ideas for kids, available to get in-store now.

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TINYTODDS Red Riding Hood story bag £8.99, 020 7000 1988

SCAMP Christmas bibs £4.50 each, 07957 151996

TOBY TIGER Polar bear Christmas card 75p each, 01903 766777

THE MAGIC DOOR STORE Miniature fairy and elf doors, available in six colours £12, 07891 683001

CUDDLEDRY Reindeer hooded towel Price on request, 01823 323363

SKIP HOP Monkey “zoobrella” Price on request, 01293 774924

October 2014 - 24

PRODUCT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

MOUSEHOUSE GIFTS Blue bear push-along £3.50, 01606 868000

KETCHUP ON EVERYTHING Animal alphabet print £10, 07967 334797

BEST YEARS Crochet rattles £5 each, 01327 262189

D FOR DIAMOND Silver and gold angel pendant £14, 01376 532000

JANOD Wolf backpack £11, 020 8878 2133

BLADE & ROSE Reindeer leggings £5, 07920 752260

ADEN + ANAIS Vintage circus-print swaddle four-pack £20, 020 7801 6279

CRAFTHOLIC Standard Sloth hug cushion From £6.50, 020 7993 8668

PANGO PRODUCTIONS Inflatable Christmas card £1.45, 020 7993 8668

Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale October 2014 - 25

PRODUCT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

Style guidE:

DIDRIKSONS £22.70 01275 390451 —

maKe a SplaSh: Bring a ray of sunshine to dull, rainy days with a colourful rain jacket.

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

HATLEY £20 020 7544 4833 —

OIL & WATER From £31 07900 187669 —

TOBY TIGER £15.99 01903 766777 —

SPOTTY OTTER Price on request 01226 379777 — October 2014 - 26

Early Days, Baby Shoes for all Occasions

NEW WEBSITE NOW OPEN Hand made in the UK since 1952 For a copy of our latest catalogue please contact: Early Days, 15 b Mandervell Rd, Oadby, Leicester, LE2 5LQ Tel: 01162 716944 Email: sales@earlydays.ltd.uk www.earlydays.ltd.uk

PRODUCT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

LAURA LOVES:

01 ●

02 ●

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01: ANNALIV

02: 1 TWO KIDS

03: SALLY NENCINI

Baby booties presented in a wooden gift box £15 020 8144 2118

Bio-plastic “cuppies” with an animal hidden in the bottom Price on request 01383 735134

Lambswool bag with pencil holders £16 07866 802238

04: LOLLIPOP Origami notepaper set Price on request 020 8878 8607

06: OLLY M JEWELLERY 05: COLOURFUL DOVE Insulated lunch bag £8 07780 603446

Boys’ bracelet with personalised charms £9 07879 816980

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

October 2014 - 28

SCHOOLWEAR | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

SChOOL WEAR: ThE LATEST NEWS AND OpINION fROM ThE SChOOLWEAR INDUSTRy 32: News 36: The ins and outs of export Investigating the opportunities in overseas markets for UK schoolwear suppliers 38: Prepare to export The British Exporters Association’s (BExA) recommendations for a new exporter 43: The Schoolwear Show preview Highlights of what’s on offer at the event for Back to School 2015 52: Charles Kirk anniversary How the business has evolved over the last 75 years

October 2014 - 31

SCHOOLWEAR | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

Schoolwear NEWS: The latest news from the schoolwear industry Schoolwear reTailer launcheS Tailoring Service School Uniform Shop, a Herefordshire retailer of bespoke school uniform, sports kit and school stationery, has supplemented its offer with the addition of a tailoring service.

The provision is designed to offer customers a convenient, cost-effective and quick alteration service for garments such as school trousers, skirts and shorts. Alterations offered include fixing zips, taking up trousers and trimming skirts, with hemming available by-hand or machine. The retailer has created a promotional video for the service, which can be viewed on YouTube.

Commenting on the new service, School Uniform Shop managing director Luke Conod says, “We have found the tailoring to be a real USP for the business; the customers love it.”

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waleS proveS hoT SpoT for fairTrade SchoolS Wales has succeeded in making Fairtrade available throughout the nation, including over 400 schools committing to learning about Fairtrade and using Fairtrade products.

Additionally, Fair Trade Wales and ethical school uniform and Fairtrade cotton uniform supplier KoolSkools are introducing a new Fairtrade Cotton project for schools in Wales. As part of an initial pilot project, a select number of grants are being offered to enable more Welsh schools to introduce Fairtrade cotton into their school uniforms.

Today, with the help of over 1,000 volunteers from across the country, all of Wales’ cities are Fairtrade. There are Fairtrade groups in 58 towns, all 22 Welsh counties. For further information visit www.fairtradewales.com.

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newS in Brief

KK Schoolwear 60 yearS old uKTi rollS ouT exporT evenTS UK Trade & Investment (UKTI) will be holding its sixth Export Week on 10-14 November. A varied series of events will take place across the UK throughout the week, aimed at businesses either starting their export journey or seeking to increase their international business.

Previous Export Weeks have seen over 17,000 UK companies attend exporting focused events, with this year featuring over 70 events across the UK. The flagship roadshow ExploreExport will be touring the country at 11 venues across England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland. Over 120 UKTI Trade Officers worldwide will be available for one-to-one meetings on their dedicated markets to help companies “explore” the possibilities of exporting to their countries. For more information and event details visit www.exportweek.ukti.gov.uk.

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— This year saw Marks & Spencer open its first standalone Back To School store in Manchester’s Trafford Centre. M&S took advantage of an empty unit in the shopping centre to house its Back To School pop-up shop, which remained open until 7 September.

This year, KK Schoolwear is celebrating 60 years in business. Situated in Magherafelt, Northern Ireland, in the same purpose-built factory since 1973, the company still remains a family business after 60 years, with a focus on sourcing and manufacturing in the UK, creating jobs in the community, and building a highly skilled and motivated team – many of which have been employed by KK Schoolwear for over 25 years.

“Over recent years we’ve been involved in the redesign of uniforms at numerous schools such as Millfield and Bromsgrove,” says KK Schoolwear’s sales and marketing director, Mona Houston. “Currently we have nine such projects in development with our retailers and schools. We see this role as ever more important in the years to come, as more and more uniforms are moving towards a tendering process. We see this as being a key trend with the importance of working in partnership becoming ever more significant.”

Going forward, the company’s main motivation is to remain committed to UK manufacturing and providing job security for its loyal workforce.

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— Tiverton High School in Devon has experienced a backlash from parents due to its strict enforcement of the school’s uniform policy seeing pupils either taken out of classes or sent home. The school reacted to uniform policy breaches such as wearing coloured socks instead of plain, black trainers instead of the regulation school shoes, skinny jeans and jewellery.

— A new schoolwear shop – Bridge Schoolwear – has opened in the Colne Valley in a former bank in Milnsbridge, Huddersfield. The premises has been fully refurbished to create a retail space over two floors. Bridge Schoolwear supplies uniforms for local high schools and primary schools, and Cub and Brownie packs.

October 2014 - 32

SCHOOLWEAR | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

uKfT chairman peTer lucaS To STep down

COLIN JACKSON VOLUNTEERING FOR JOIN IN WITH KIDS AT BANGOR CITY FC.

UKFT chairman Peter Lucas will be stepping down as of May 2015, with deputy chairman Nigel Lugg elected to take over the role. Lucas, who has held the position since 2008, began his involvement with the Industrial Relations Committee of the British Clothing Industry Association in 1987, as well as previously serving highly active roles within the Board of BCIA, The British Apparel and Textile Confederation, The British Knitting and Clothing Export Council and UK Fashion Exports.

—

official parTnerShip for inTerSporT and Join in International sporting goods retailer Intersport has become an official partner to Join In, a London 2012 legacy charity that puts more volunteers into community sport. Together, they aim to strengthen their existing relationships with grass roots sports clubs and make a lasting difference to community sports groups across the UK. As part of the collaboration, Join In’s team of over 250 local leaders will be matched with their local Intersport store in order to make volunteer resources more accessible to grass roots clubs.

Chairman of The Join In Trust, Lord Charles Allen of Kensington CBE says, “I am delighted that Intersport has joined us as an official partner. As we broaden our engagement with grassroots sports clubs, it is important to spread the word and highlight the vital role that volunteers play in community sport. Intersport can help us do that, as they continue their very real commitment to making a difference in community sport.”

—

david luKe’S high endurance At the time of going to print, the “#totalecool team” from David Luke were testing their mental fortitude and athletic ability by taking part in the Peak District Endurer Dash in support of Barnardo’s (a charity for which David Luke has been linked with over recent years).

The “#totalecool team” – made up of Kathryn Shuttleworth, Kirsty Conroy, Mark Woolgar, Richard Moody, Ian McLaverty and Abigail Trench – are set to undergo a 14km obstacle course on muddy terrain for the company’s chosen charity, whose purpose is to transform the lives of the UK's most vulnerable children.

—

newS in Brief

TougheeS launcheS wellieS School footwear brand Toughees has introduced a new range of coloured Wellington boots.

Available in red, purple, green, navy and pink, the boots come complete with a sock lining, which is removable to enable washing and provide more room when the child’s foot grows.

Available in sizes 20-35, the Wellingtons wholesale for £9.99.

Toughees school shoes have been manufactured in South Africa since 1954, with in excess of four million pairs sold every year.

—

TicKeTS STill availaBle for Sa fundraiSer Tickets are still available for this year’s annual Schoolwear Association (SA) fundraising event, which takes place following the second day of The Schoolwear Show on Monday 13 October.

The Roaring 20s themed evening, which is sponsored by William Turner & Son and Charles Kirk, will be held at Hogarths Hotel in Solihull.

Starting at 7.30pm and running until late, the event will consist of a sit down meal, 20s-style entertainment, dancing, a fundraising auction and a few surprises to be revealed on the night.

The dress code is 20s theme or black tie.

In conjunction with the event, Hogarths Hotel, which is in very close proximity to The Schoolwear Show’s venue at Cranmore Park, is offering a special Schoolwear Association rate of £105 B&B for any night of the exhibition’s duration. For tickets and further information, email Marie Bradburn at marie.bradburn@hotmail.co.uk.

Last-minute tickets will also be available to purchase from the SA during the first day of the show.

—

— John Lewis’ school uniform department is offering the hijab for the first time. The retailer is stocking the headdress, worn by Muslim women to cover the head and chest areas, in its London and Liverpool stores.

new Schoolwear indie ScoopS award New Welsh independent The Pencil Case, located in Cowbridge and an official supplier of local school uniform, gymnastics and dancewear alongside contemporary stationery and gifts, has won the New Start-up of the Year 2014 award.

Wesley Skene, founder of the South Wales Business Awards, says, “Since 2008, the awards have been celebrating excellence in the Welsh business community. This year has been without doubt our most strongly contested and competitive awards. Our winners and nominees have shown that Wales is one of the leading nations for entrepreneurship and we must continue to champion this cause.”

The accolade is part of the annual South Wales Business Awards 2014 and was presented at a ceremony on 12 September 2014 at the Bear Hotel in Cowbridge.

—

— The Footwear Industry Awards team is inviting school footwear retailers throughout Britain, large or small, to enter The National Shop Front of the Year Award, which is part of the Footwear Industry Awards (FIAs).

Designed to reward individuals and businesses that contribute the most to the footwear industry, this free awards scheme is open to all retailers and brands.

— K.T. Labels was one of six companies shortlisted for the finals of the Innovation Award for the Global Label Awards 2014.

Its selection was for its new shoe label, which is now sold in Marks & Spencer, BHS and a number of independent schoolwear retailers spanning the UK to Australia.

October 2014 - 33

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EXPORTING | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

ThE iNS aNd OuTS Of ExpOrT an increasing number of uK schoolwear suppliers are seeking growth opportunities in overseas markets. here, a panel of schoolwear specialists offer their experiences of exporting, from initial research to the challenges they have encountered along the way.

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andy SmiTh, md, william Turner — “Understanding the market is one of the main challenges of exporting overseas because every market is different. If you’re serious about it you have to get on a plane and meet with clients face-to-face.

Sometimes the best way is to get out there and meet people and see what it’s all about. I don’t think I have ever got a response just from sending an email. I had to go to them, and that’s the only way I got business in Australia.

“The internet can only take you so far – a basic search tells you if the market exists, but we’ve been heavily involved with UKTI. I went to it first to see which services you can get for free. We commissioned an OMIS report, whereby the embassy ran a full report into the schoolwear market. The report varies depending on which country you are dealing with and tells you detailed information about the market. UKTI has provided travel grants and contacts for specific problems and queries. Other than that, you’re pretty much on your own.

We export to the Middle East, North America, Australia, Europe and Africa. It’s our main drive at the moment. There is an expanding market overseas, and lots of opportunities. Uniform is starting to be adopted in countries where it wasn’t before, such as Italy. And there is an increase at the amount of English schools overseas; we’ve seen an increase in China, in cities such as Beijing. We’re also finding that overseas customers are coming to us because they think English uniforms are better quality.”

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charleS horTon, md, charles Kirk — “our export experience has been fairly limited, and is mainly gained from existing customers, The Schoolwear Show and word of mouth. we currently export directly to Bermuda, canada and Japan, but our garments are also worn in schools in africa and the middle east – and on stage in new york in the current matilda production. The main challenges in exporting overseas are understanding how different markets work and locating an entry points, the currency fluctuation and transport costs. with regard to developing this area of the business, we would be interested in expanding our overseas trade, but not to the detriment of our local markets.”

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pierS mounTgarreT, marketing & export manager, Blue max Banner — “The export side of the Blue Max Banner business is growing, but is still fairly small in the context of our overall turnover. We have found the UKTI to be extremely supportive – it helped us to secure a grant, which we used to promote our products at some of the major international trade fairs a few years ago. It was instrumental in securing our current business.

We currently export to Canada, Germany, Africa, Australia and New Zealand. Our biggest customer is based in Canada. We have a great advocate of the Blue Max Banner brand on the ground here, who has been instrumental in getting our brands overseas.

We also know that a couple of our key customers ship our uniforms to foreign schools, so we are exporting a significant volume of our school uniforms indirectly.

Up until now, export hasn’t received as much support as we would like as all of our investment has been channelled into getting

the business and customer service in the UK up-to-speed following all of our acquisitions.

However, we are now very much on track and are about to announce the appointment of a business development executive, who will be tasked with developing new markets for our business. Export will play a significant role in this.

Knowing and understanding the markets in new geographical locations is critical. We recognise that we must invest in management time and enable members of our sales team to make regular visits to our target territories to conduct research, build contacts, nurture relationships and attend relevant exhibitions.

Transportation costs can be challenging.

To make them viable, we need customers to order significant volumes so that they can be shipped direct from our factories in the Far East.”

—

October 2014 - 36

EXPORTING | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

miKe BrumfiT, director, falcon Sportswear — “We have exported to numerous EU countries, as well as exporting as far away as Bermuda and Nigeria. We are always interested in developing our export business, but currently more focused on our UK customers, domestic growth and the constantly changing trends of the UK school sportswear market.

We conducted a lot of web-based research when we were originally approached by an overseas business to supply them with goods. HMRC has an in-depth section on its website, covering the overseas supply of goods and services. There is also the UK Trade and Investment (UKTI) arm of the government, as well as many other sites that offer good advice and pitfalls to avoid. Additionally, our overseas customers have experience of importing themselves, so we communicate constantly with them. The important thing is to ensure

you are always up-to-speed with the latest government and trade information, which changes frequently.

The main challenges we face are two-fold. The administration side of things can be quite labour-intensive; researching, completing multiple copies of documentation required for the customers, the freight forwarders and dealing with both UK customs and customs of the country we are exporting to. The other challenge can be the transportation aspect; although there are many companies that specialise in this, we are used to offering our customers next day delivery – and this cannot be easily achieved while exporting.”

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John BaineS, director, Kwik Tapes KaThryn ShuTTleworTh, commercial director, david luke — “we export on a small scale and in a reactive way. we deal with trade overseas when we get enquiries through. it is an area we are considering expanding on, and it is something to consider because there are opportunities in the Southern hemisphere. however, it is just looking at it logistically, and considering if it is the right thing to do at the moment. it is something we might consider more if the right deal came along.”

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— “I supply to countries around the world, but the majority of our export overseas is to the British Colonial countries such as Australia, where the more traditional schools are based and use traditional school uniforms.

We make labels, and therefore my product is small, but one of the biggest problems is the cost of delivery overseas.

We always charge the best possible prices but some things you can’t help. For instance, there’s major corruption in Africa at the moment, particularly Zimbabwe, because of the heavy duty prices. The charges are unreliable – one day it will cost you the normal amount and the next it will be charged at double what it should be. The worst place to deliver to is Russia, because there are some areas you can’t get to. We’re looking at opening our own delivery offices overseas to try and get around some of the problems, and in the near future we will be opening one in Ireland.

When it comes to overseas exportation, it’s a learn-as-you-go experience. There are organisations that try

to help and can provide you with special discounts, but overall I was disappointed with the amount of support available to UK businesses. There are grants available, but the allocation of these grants is unfair, and it seems like first come first served in a lot of circumstances.

Developing the overseas exportation side of our business is the main focus at the moment. I think this side of business is the future, so we grow it every year. We do this in a variety of ways, mainly through e-commerce because it is integral to overseas trade. Our stockist Marks & Spencer has a “text-a-tag” service, where customers can order labels through their phones by texting a number. Everyone has a mobile phone these days, and it’s important to look at developing and catering for technology.”

—

October 2014 - 37

EXPORTING | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

prEparE TO ExpOrT a guide to navigating the first steps of an exporting journey.

A company considering exporting for the first time should not be put off by the multitude of rules and regulations. An early port of call should be the UK government websites UK Trade & Investment (www.ukti.gov.uk), HMRC (www.customs.hmrc.gov.uk), and the government-sponsored Open To Export (www.opentoexport.com). The British Exporters Association (BExA), an independent national trade association representing the interests of the export community, provides its top 20 recommendations for a new exporter.

01: Where are you planning to export? Which are the most favourable destinations for your products considering your local contacts (if any), competitiveness and brand recognition plus also duties and tariffs? Be prepared to visit the market.

02: Country risks include payment, delivery, documentation, customs clearance, risks of damage or theft in transit. Consider subscribing to exporter references and guides (see reference at foot of this commentary).

03: An export cannot proceed until cleared by Customs. It is important that the Customs Classification of your goods is accurate.

Familiarise yourself with Tariff Codes Commodity Codes, Customs Procedure Codes (CPCs) and customs entries. Getting it wrong can be very expensive, either for you or your customer.

04: Understand your responsibilities and obligations for the export customs declaration, even when the customer sends its own freight forwarder to collect goods from your premises.

When a freight forwarder undertakes the customs declaration on your behalf, give specific instructions as to values, product classifications, record keeping and evidence of export. Check the accuracy of all customs declarations – they are your responsibility.

05: Documentation – accuracy is vital. Never undervalue or mis-declare goods to reduce your customer’s import costs, however persuasive he is. Sometimes you just have to say, “No”.

06: Exports to a destination outside the EU are exempt from VAT (zero rated). However you must prove that the goods have left the EU or you will become liable for the VAT. 07: Goods despatched to other EU countries can be VAT-able at destination – so long as you provide your customer’s VAT registration number and evidence of export.

08: Get trained. A few hundreds of pounds spent on training key staff in export procedures could well save thousands (or more) in the future.

09: Agree terms of delivery – in accordance with Incoterms® Rules – that work for you and

your customer. Understand exactly what each term really means when it comes to the division of costs and responsibilities. Beware Delivered Duty Paid (DDP) – your customer is bound to ask for it at some point and you could become liable for unexpected and unlimited costs.

10: Take care when preparing bids, costings and quotations. Work out and understand the true costs of preparing, documenting and shipping your goods to the place of destination. Also keep in mind costs associated with trade finance and your travel costs.

11: Understand that transfer of (cargo) risk is not the same as transfer of title, and that possession does not mean ownership.

12: Prepare written contracts of sale, ideally subject to English Law. Include a clause about dispute resolution, eg arbitration and legal jurisdiction. With exports, if it can go wrong, at some stage it probably will. Take legal advice to protect yourself and your company.

13: Don’t forget Intellectual Property. You may need to protect your ideas and designs, and certainly do not want to infringe someone else’s.

14: If you are shipping standard goods (as opposed to hazardous or unusual sized/shaped loads), your freight forwarder may provide marine/transit insurance. Ask for cover “warehouse to warehouse”.

“Destination” Incoterms® Rules have the advantage that you control the transit insurance, and, if there is a loss, you negotiate the claim.

15: Payment risk. Most export obligations are “open credit”, eg payment by simple invoice 30 days from despatch. Establish if your customer is creditworthy before you make a quotation/bid either by obtaining a credit reference agency report or by asking a credit insurer – via your insurance broker – for export credit insurance against the risk of non-payment and to cover country/political risks. “An export isn’t an export until your money is in the bank!”

16: Bank payment security (such as a bank guarantee or Letter of Credit) will be more secure for you but expensive for your customer who will need to utilise banking lines which may have an impact on its cash flow. It is possible that your products will be more competitive if your customer can pay for them in a manner that suits its cash flow.

17: Look after your cash flow. Winning an order is a huge achievement, but not if it drains your company’s cash. Read BExA’s Guide to Financing Exports, ask suppliers for longer terms, and talk to your bank. Manage currency exposures in case these eat into your profit margin.

18: Be aware of, and treat seriously, your responsibilities under the Bribery Act 2010, particularly when exporting to countries where bribery is endemic.

19: Keep records of all customs entries, evidence of export, transport documents, contractual agreements. Ensure documents are easily accessible should you receive a Customs audit or if payment from your customer is late.

20: Take advice. UKTI, BExA, Chambers of Commerce, the IoE and independent specialists offer help and advice. Make the most of the knowledge that’s out there, but don’t just blindly believe everything you hear, and definitely not everything you read on the Internet. And if you’re still not sure, double check… then check again.

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REFERENCES: BExA guides and commentaries available from www.bexa.co.uk: Guides: Successful Exporting, Financing Exports, Export Compliance, Letters of Credit, Export Credit Insurance, Contract bonds, Retention of Title Commentaries: Incoterms 2010, Bribery Act 2010, Contract Frustration; UK Export Finance Short Term Export Credit Insurance; Bond Issue Support Chambers of Commerce: www.britishchambers.org.uk Commodity Code: Check the unique Commodity Code of your goods – see Vol 2 of The Integrated Tariff on www.gov.uk. Codes may differ for EU and non-EU sales.

Evidence of export (for VAT exemption): Details of what constitutes evidence of export can be found in HMRC Customs notice 703 (VAT Export of Goods from the UK, August 2006).

Export credit insurance: Ask your insurance broker about export credit insurance (payment risk protection), which may include UK export finance.

Export training: Courses are provided by the IoE, Chambers of Commerce, Strong & Herd and Tate’s.

Exporter references: Croner’s Reference Book for Exporters 0800 634 1700. Tate’s Export Guide 01908 221162 UK export finance: Export credit insurance and finance support for UK exporters is provided by this UK government department.

HMRC: HM Revenue & Customs “Guide to importing and exporting – breaking down the barriers” (Version 36, October 2012). VAT, Excise & Customs helpline 0845 010 9000 Tariff Classification Service 01702 366077 Incoterms® rules: Incoterms 2010’s 11 terms of delivery, set out the responsibilities of shipper and customer.

International Chamber of Commerce 020 7838 9363 IoE: Institute of Export – for export training www.export.org.uk Strong & Herd: Strong & Herd 0161 499 7000 www.strongandherd.co.uk Tate’s: www.tatefreightforms.co.uk UKTI: 020 7215 5000 www.ukti.gov.uk and www.gov.uk

— For further information contact Hugh Bailey, director, British Exporters Association 020 7222 5419 hughbailey@bexa.co.uk.

October 2014 - 38

UK DESIGN & MANUFACTURE

CELEBRATING 60 YEARS IN BUSINESS We at KK see the importance of working in partnership with our customers and suppliers becoming ever more significant.

With the trend towards tendering, one of our key strengths as a UK manufacture remains the ability to provide excellent support throughout, from Concept to Creation‌ Fair Hill, Magherafelt, Northern Ireland BT45 6BL

T 028 7963 2188 F 028 7963 4077 E sales@kkschoolwear.com www.kkschoolwear.com

See us at The Schoolwear Show - Stand 35

Visit us at The Schoolwear Show, Cranmore Park, Solihull, B90 4LE 12-14 October 2014

THE SCHOOLWEAR SHOW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

ThE SChOOlWEar ShOW 2014 12-14 OCTOBER 2014, CRANMORE pARk, SOLIhULL

— highlights of what’s new for Back To School 2015 at this month’s edition of The Schoolwear Show – the uK’s only trade exhibition dedicated solely to the independent schoolwear retailer.

AKOA

1880 CLUB Presenting its most comprehensive range of schoolwear to date, 1880 CLUB combines quality fabrics and functional design to create pieces made for the long-term and to withstand both the classroom and playground.

New for 2015 is the option of anti-pill yarn, which is now available in knitwear, with fit and shape continuing to be updated to remain contemporary.

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Trutex’s sportswear brand Akoa is introducing a new goalkeeper kit available in two colours to complement its stock football kit. The long-sleeve goalkeeper kit has a contrast colour shaped panel across the front shoulder to match the football kit design, and features padding detail to the lower arms and hips.

Akoa is also set to showcase a new, improved sports sock, which is made in the UK and stock supported in nine colours. The made-to-order range, meanwhile, includes the addition of a girls’ long sleeve polo, ideal for winter sports, with additional styles also added to the sublimation offering, which now includes T-shirts, athletic vests and netball dresses.

— October 2014 - 43

THE SCHOOLWEAR SHOW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

CHADWICK TEAMWEAR Utilising its knowledge and expertise as a performance fabrics supplier, Chadwick Teamwear offers a 25-piece collection of key school products including base layers (tops, shorts and tights) performance shorts, outerwear, tech T-shirts, hoodies and training pants.

Bestsellers include a range of contact and non-contact training tops featuring subtle details that reflect the changing demands emerging from image-conscious schools and organisations. New products, meanwhile, include a pro-quality skort for age six years upwards, a female fit side zip pant and a new durable personal kit bag. Plans for 2015 include a multi-sport technical fit polo in a full range of colour options along with a new seamless underlayer product.

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BALMORAL New school knitwear styles are constantly in progress at Balmoral. This year alone, the company has made over 60 new styles of made-to-order school pullovers and cardigans. These include special shades, special patterns, and bespoke stripe colours and combinations, the latter of which is achieved with the help of Balmoral’s exclusive access to a spinner’s library of thousands of yarns. Balmoral is also increasingly able to shape and fashion knitwear – for instance heavier weight seven-gauge wool/nylon sweaters – and is training its staff in new skills to add to the company’s growing technology capacity.

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CYBERTILL

BLUE MAX BANNER New for 2015 is a contemporary, slim-fit trouser collection; the Trimley for girls and Slimbridge for boys. Targeting older students, the trousers are designed to fit below the waist and snugly at the top of the leg. The Slimbridge is available in black, charcoal, grey and navy, and the Trimley in black and navy.

Now in its second year, and continuing to be key in Blue Max Banner’s portfolio, is the E-Warrior two-button blazer, constructed from up to 35 non-biodegradable plastic bottles and featuring a back vent and matt finish in a format for girls and boys. Also key is the casual schoolwear offer and staples such as the Penthouse polo – whose tight-knit weave provides a base for embroidery and colour consistency with easy care properties – the Select and Classic sweatshirt collection, jackets, socks and tights. A bespoke service is also available.

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This year, Cybertill will be showcasing its mobile point-of-sale solution and ecommerce platform. Cybertill’s Epos system works on an iPad as a mobile point of sale, allowing schoolwear retailers to turn an iPad into an additional till at peak selling times, and also remotely, as a till and stock control tool when selling at school events.

Cybertill’s Epos and ecommerce applications are also integrated to ensure visibility of stock online is accurate, so services such as click and collect can be offered.

Additionally, it offers a single, responsive ecommerce website, which changes its appearance and layout based on the size of the screen the website is displayed on, whether it be a laptop, tablet or phone, enabling the retailer to manage one website alone.

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October 2014 - 44

BO-BELL New to The Schoolwear Show this year is footwear brand Bo-bell, with its Back to School range of shoes. With over 25 years’ experience creating and developing children’s footwear in its factory in Portugal, Bo-bell shoes are currently sold in over 500 retail shops across Western Europe, Dubai, Hong Kong and Israel. The company has a production capacity of 150,000 pairs per year, supported by a team of 64 staff and the latest technologies developed for production. During the last three years, the company has invested more than ¤1m in new plant, information and communications technology, product development and promoting innovative manufacturing techniques, with the latest machinery and up-to-date training.

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DAVID LUKE New for David Luke for 2015 includes the expansion of its Eco uniform range, which features items that all have part, or total, polyester content made from recycled plastic bottles. Joining David Luke’s Eco uniform range of Eco Blazers and Eco Jackets for 2015, therefore, will now be all boys’ trousers, girls’ skirts, sweatshirts and polo shirts. New skirts for 2015 are a junior drop-waist skirt, junior stitched-down knife pleat style, and a senior pleated skirt. These are available in grey, navy and black on some styles. Another addition is the new sports short in poly/cotton to replace a number of previous styles offered by David Luke. The new short offers much-improved styling and fit with a brushed cotton finished fabric and is available in a range of colours, including white, black, navy, maroon, royal and red. Finally, a new collection of smart cord trousers and shorts will be showcased. Produced in the same styles as David Luke’s current trouser and short range, the new cords offer is available in navy and grey.

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CHARLES KIRK This year, Charles Kirk is celebrating 75 years of manufacturing. New for 2015, following positive feedback from customers in 2014, are Charles Kirk cushions. The cushions will be available to view at the show, together with a dedicated brochure outlining all of the possibilities for a cushion that can be sold as a promotional, commemoratory or celebratory gift, made in school/team colours and adorned with logos or wording. Also on offer will be the long-standing Heritage Definition knitwear range and the more recent additions of the Coolflow Knitwear and Colour Plus Sweatshirt lines. Charles Kirk will also be promoting its in-house embroidery and printing facilities and wide array of options available for made-to-order garments produced in the UK. —

DIAMOND TEXTILES First-time exhibitor Diamond Textiles, which has over 20 years’ experience in manufacturing high quality fabrics, specifically fleece fabrics and schoolwear, is now in the process of securing the supply of boys’ school trousers and girls’ pinafores and skirts for 2015. These will be available in grey, with other colours to follow. Also new to the company’s product range is knitwear, available in two compositions across a range of colours.

Other school garments covered by Diamond Textiles are crew neck sweatshirts, V-neck sweatshirts, cardigans and jog pants. Alongside these it also produces zip-up tops and hooded jumpers, all of which feature piping. Sizes range from ages 2-3 years up to 13 years, plus small, medium, large and extra-large.

— October 2014 - 45

THE SCHOOLWEAR SHOW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

HELIX Helix Trading offers a choice of three educational brands. Oxford for traditional academic school accessories, Helix for technical school equipment, while Maped offers colourful and innovative products for school. Since joining forces with Maped in 2012, the Helix and Helix Oxford ranges are now complemented by Maped brands, which offer design-led, user-friendly and innovative products. The award-winning Maple Jungle Innovation and Helix Oxford school equipment will be exhibited at the show.

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FALCON This year’s show marks the launch of Falcon’s new encoRe collection, which is a technically advanced line of sportswear manufacturing using newly developed Type R fabric. The applied technology ensures each garment benefits from three core attributes – SolR, DriR and EnduR. In terms of product, the encoRe range consists of a reversible sports top, unisex polo shirt, T-shirt, hooded top, skort and short. Other new additions are a co-ordinated sock to complement the current Spirit line, and a 260gsm polyester/cotton jog bottom available in black/white and navy/white.

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K.T. LABELS As part of its offer, K.T. Labels will showcase its improved nametape machine, which is now available with the option of an intelligent keyboard – capable of printing a wide range of labels and pictures. Also launching at the show are the company’s new budget nametapes, which start at £30 for 2,500 for standard iron-on labels or £50 for 3,000 special iron-on or sew-in labels. Furthermore, K.T. Labels will provide live demonstrations of how wash-care garment labels can be produced using the same printer it provides for its name tapes, shoe labels and trophy labels.

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KK SCHOOLWEAR

HALBRO With over 95 years’ experience, Halbro is a leading supplier of high-performance bespoke sports clothing for all team/school sports and clubs. It utilises cutting edge technology for fabric and construction to create innovative products, with a focus on quality, design, service and short lead times.

Catering for all sports clothing requirements, Halbro will present its new range for 2015 at the show.

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KK Schoolwear offers tailored, bespoke schoolwear to a high specification of design, colour, fabric and manufacture across a range that includes skirts, kilts, pinafores, summer dresses and outerwear. With everything created in-house, one of the company’s key assets remains its ability to provide quick turnaround times for samples. This is backed-up by its dedicated design team, which can provide mood/design boards to support its customers with uniform re-design.

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October 2014 - 46

THE SCHOOLWEAR SHOW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

THE MAGIC TOUCH

NATIONAL WEAVING National Weaving is showcasing its latest efforts to make it easier than ever to sell nametapes in-store. Since adopting the Voucher Cards, many of its customers have doubled their revenue or more on nametape sales. There is also brand new point-of-sale material available to help retailers sell in-store, and simplify ordering. In the past year, National Weaving has made extensive refurbishments to its factory and offices to maintain production capacity and customer service, backed-up by a quick turnaround in production, even in peak times.

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OPRO Highlights from mouth guard specialist Opro include the new Lower Ortho, specifically designed for wearers of fixed braces on the bottom teeth. Additionally, following on from the successful introduction of the “handle and spacers” system, Opro is taking this concept to a new level by combining the elements into a single unit – the Cradle – which provides an improved and easier fitting method. Finally, after being appointed official mouth guard supplier of England Rugby, the company will be promoting its new partnership with a special edition RFU mouth guard featuring the England Rose and specially designed packaging.

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A key product launch for The Magic Touch is the introduction of leavers’ mugs in a choice of colours, which is a significant innovation, when previous decoration of ceramic mugs has generally been restricted to white coated mugs using the traditional sublimation transfer process. In association with UK-based Listawood, Europe’s leading ceramics coater and decorator, The Magic Touch has formed a global partnership to promote and market the new opportunity with the new SatinMug. Developed and engineered by Listawood, and the CPM transfer paper by The Magic Touch, the CPM transfers are printed using new “white toner” technology, which enables full colour images, logos, and text to be transferred onto dark-coloured mugs using traditional mug press equipment. The Magic Touch has also introduced printable presentation boxes to further enhance the personalisation concept.

—

ROWLINSON

POD School shoe supplier Pod is building on the success of its 2014 collections with new, bigger Back to School ranges for 2015. In response to customer feedback and market research, it has developed its new ranges to include a boot and a sportier look while still retaining the durability and comfort of its existing styles. Key design features include Tak-tan leathers, which are scuff-resistant, water-resistant, and can be wiped clean with a damp cloth; TPR soles, which are cemented and stitched for durability; and removable and washable in-socks for comfort and hygiene.

—

At this year’s Schoolwear Show, Rowlinson will be showing its full range of knitwear, together with the new hooded sweatshirt, which was launched to the market this summer. Comprising 65 per cent polyester and 35 per cent cotton fabric, it weighs in at an above average 280gsm. The hardwearing fabric is brushed for extra warmth, and dyed to lock in colour and hold it wash-after-wash.

An easy-care garment, it is suitable for washing at 40ᵒC with a cool tumble and cool iron if required.

With a classic raglan sleeve for ease of movement and elasticated cuffs and rib hem, the garment is reinforced with top stitched seams for extra durability and completed with a front pouch.

The new hooded sweatshirt is currently available plain from stock on a 24 hour delivery basis in black and navy. All other 13 colours in the Woodbank range can be pre-booked for production for next season, with plans to introduce more stock colours at a later date. Embroidery is also an option if required.

—

October 2014 - 47

THE SCHOOLWEAR SHOW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

EXHIBITOR LIST 1: 2: 3: 4: 5: 6: 7: 8: 9: 10: 11: 12: 13: 14:

TRUTEX

WILLIAM TURNER

Trutex is launching a new fleece jacket with a more contemporary shape designed to appeal to a wider audience. Technically advanced, it includes anti-pill fabric, a reversed full zip, and is available in six colours and in sizes ranging from age 2/3 up to 3XL. Also new to the range is a new senior boy’s trouser.

Reflecting market trends, the slim leg-style trouser has a flat front, two back pockets with button fastening, a tailored waistband and is available in black, charcoal and grey and sizes from 24in up to 40in waist. Building on the success of its bespoke range, meanwhile, sees Trutex launch a new blazer concept entitled Fusion. Examples of the new blazers, which are designed to push the boundaries of schoolwear forward, will be available to view at the show.

—

William Turner’s range of Unicol school bags continues to grow for 2015, with new additions to both the junior and senior ranges. The bestselling junior styles include a despatch bag, infant/junior backpack and a gym bag, which are now available in two colour combinations to give schools an opportunity to further bespoke their bags. There is also a new, modern lightweight backpack (the Urban Backpack) ideal for seniors in black and navy, together with retro shoulder bags, also from stock, in the core school colours. Moreover, following customer feedback, William Turner has added team kit bags to its stock range. Introduced in seven different colour combinations, all in the popular medium size, these bags are ideal for school tours, as a generic school bag and for football and rugby clubs.

—

15: 15A: 16: 17: 18A: 18: 19: 20: 21: 22: 23:

Gymphlex Target Dry William Turner David Luke Charles Kirk Wren Rowlinson Chadwick Textiles ZECO Eskimo EPOS Magicfit POD Shoes Blue Max Banner Graham Winterbottom Bo-bell Orion William Lamb Carta Sports Orion National Weaving Blue Max Banner BTC Activewear KT Labels The Magic Touch Brand Agility

24: Douglas & Grahame 25A: Top To Toe 25: Gardiner Bros 26: Marton Mills 27: Falcon 28: PEX 29: Petasil 30: G&D Garments 31: Denbydale 32: Helix 33: Balmoral 34: EMPTY 35: KK Model 36: Stabilo 37: Halbro 38: Cybertill 39: OPRO 40: P&R Fabrics 41: Lollipop 42: Europa 43: Trutex 44: Reydon 45: Diamond Textiles 46: Amaya

FLOOR PLAN

PLATINUM SUITE

EUROPA 42

TRUTEX 43

DISABLED TOILET

41

40

28

35

27

25A

GARDINER BROS

23

BTC ACTIVEWEAR

BLUE MAX BANNER

FIRE EXIT

DIAMOND SUITE

22 18A

20

19

18

11

12

13

LOUNGE AREA

14

21

15

POD SHOES

MAGICFIT

DINING ROOM

CHARLES KIRK 4

5

BLUE MAX BANNER

WREN SCHOOL WEAR LTD

6

CHADWICK TEXTILES

ROWLINSON 7

COURTYARD

TOILETS

8

ESKIMO EPOS

ZECO 9

SCHOOLWEAR ASSOCIATION COFFEE LOUNGE

10

DAVID LUKE

STAIRS ELEVATOR

3

DAVID LUKE

2

WILLIAM TURNER

FIRE EXIT

GRAHAM WINTERBOTTOM

RECEPTION

00 4

FIRE EXIT

37

25

MARTON MILLS

FALCON

NATIONAL WEAVING

ORION

36

26

PEX

PETASIL

HALBRO

STABILO

BRAND AGILITY

33

16

ORION

ROLLER DOOR

KK MODEL

THE MAGIC TOUCH

32

15A

BO-BELL

BALMORAL

CYBER TILL

24

31

29

38

OPRO

KT LABELS

WILLIAM LAMB

CARTA SPORTS

30

HELIX

FIRE EXIT

TOP TO TOE

17

AMAYA 46

39

P&R FABRICS

LOLLIPOP DENBY DALE

45

44

LADIES TOILET MEN’S TOILET G&D GARMENTS

DIAMOND TEXTILES

REYDON

DOUGLAS & GRAHAME

FIRE EXIT

SA

1 TARGET DRY

ENTRANCE

GYMPHLEX

CLOAKROOM LADIES TOILET MEN’S TOILET

FIRE EXIT

October 2014 - 48

DAYPACKS

For more information contact Jacquie Sandison Tel: 0131 554 5555 Email: jacquie@brandagility.co.uk

CHARLES KIRK | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

CharlES KirK– 75 yEarS iN BuSiNESS as part of schoolwear manufacturer charles Kirk’s 75th anniversary celebrations, cwB speaks to charles horton, md and third generation, to discuss the past, present and future of the business.

This year, Worthing firm Charles Kirk is celebrating 75 years of manufacturing.

During the last 60 years, four generations of the Horton family have helped build the company into the success it is today; a renowned specialist manufacturer, supplier, embroiderer and printer of school knitwear, sweatshirts and accessories.

The current team at the helm is third generation and company MD Charles Horton, his wife Deborah, and their daughters, Sarah and Elizabeth. Together, they are committed to continuing the business’ traditions of “honesty”, “quality” and “adaptability”, and maintaining the ethos of Made in GB, Made with Care and Made for the Adventure of Learning.

Before looking ahead to discuss the company’s future path, Charles Horton takes the opportunity to reflect on its past, and some of the individuals and milestones that have shaped its evolution.

“The company was originally started in 1939 by a gentleman called Charles Kirk who, from what we can discover, used to make blouses,” he says. “There was a unit at Bolsover Street, Marylebone, and a salesroom

opened at Stratford Place, just off Oxford Street, in 1946. Charles Kirk and a gentleman called Robert Goldreich sold the blouses.

During the War, many of these would have had the CC41 label for civilian clothing. Laws made it illegal and unpatriotic to spend time embellishing clothing for sale and forbade manufacturers using the CC41 label from incorporating any fancy trimmings, unnecessary buttons, extra stitching, tucks, pleats or pockets that weren’t essential to function.”

The manufacturing unit moved from London to Worthing in 1951 but, by 1952, Goldreich made a move that ultimately led to the Horton family’s connection with the firm.

In a company meeting, Goldreich made the announcement that, in his opinion, “it was no longer possible to produce goods cheap enough, and speedily enough, to compete under present market conditions”. Company founder Charles Kirk didn’t agree and was determined to continue with the business. It was at this stage he set about persuading a former toy manufacturer, who had left London’s East End and retired to the South Coast, to invest in the business. The

gentleman in question was current managing director Charles Horton’s grandfather – also called Charles – who took Kirk up on his offer and, together with his son Basil Horton and daughter Gladys Hembley, became a company director.

By the 1960s, company founder Kirk had sold his shares in the business and left, the Hortons had taken full control, and the business had naturally evolved into a school knitwear and dress manufacturer. In terms of schoolwear, Charles Kirk was one of the first companies to use L.C. Courtelle yarn from Courtauld’s Textiles in its school knitwear. L.C. Courtelle was a durable, much-loved yarn by the schoolwear sector until the final fibre producer in the UK switched to more profitable carbon fibre production. The replacement, Heritage Definition, was sourced

by Yorkshire firm Paint Box Textiles from a fibre producer in Eastern Europe, whose plant was copied from the English manufacturer, and has proved a first-rate substitute since, with its continued durability but softer handle.

By the 1980s, Charles Kirk’s dress manufacturing was replaced by sweatshirts, October 2014 - 52

CHARLES KIRK | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

and embroidery machines were used to adorn garments in-house. The last decade has seen even further developments, as Charles Horton goes on to explain.

“In the last 10 years, the range of products supplied by Charles Kirk has increased to include Coolflow cotton acrylic knitwear, the Jerzees schoolgear range and Result jackets,” he says. “In-house printing facilities have been added using the latest technology, with the company still manufacturing over 200,000 garments a year in Worthing in a wide variety of yarns and fabrics.

“We have a wealth of experience in all parts of the company and believe in personal service, attention to detail and quality of product,” Horton continues. “With our manufacturing unit we can ensure every child can have a garment that fits them, whatever shape or size they may be.”

Today, Charles Horton is responsible for overseeing the general running of the company, developing new ranges and maintaining communication with customers.

His wife, Deborah, is company secretary, and administers the financial, technological, and human resource areas of the company. Their daughter, Sarah Horton, who manages marketing and customer relations, has been updating the company’s administrative procedures and, moving forward, is assigned with the task of liaising more closely with customers to further improve communication levels. The Horton’s other daughter, Elizabeth Browning, is based in Hong Kong and, as the firm’s sustainability co-ordinator, analyses the business’ sustainability and ethical policies as well as managing the company website and media streams it generates. As the youngest generation of the Charles Kirk business, both Sarah and Elizabeth have, via their use of social networking, also introduced team building and new marketing skills to the company.

“The successful suppliers and retailers are the ones that have embraced change and used new technology while recognising the importance of providing a quality service both in person and online”

Plans for the business include the relocation of its office administration to release more space for warehousing. The firm is also updating its computer and telephone systems to improve and sync the various media required in today’s marketplace.

Long-term, the aim is to create a purposebuilt unit for Charles Kirk’s manufacturing arm and increase storage capability for both yarn and finished goods on the same site.

In order to continue retaining the company’s market share, Charles Horton and the team are diligent in reviewing the business’ offering yearly and, more importantly, changing the product range as the schoolwear market evolves. Their recipe for success is fairly straightforward; “producing premium products, at a reasonable price, and constantly reassessing the quality and consistency to ensure our exacting standards are kept.”

Technology, however, is where Charles Horton’s main focus lies, and what he believes will be the determining factor in the schoolwear market’s direction going forward.

“The successful suppliers and retailers are the ones that have embraced change and used new technology while recognising the importance of providing a quality service both in person and online,” he says. “Both suppliers and retailers have had to change rapidly to embrace the technological advances, which have led to a huge rise in online shopping. Online sales in the UK have risen from £1bn in 2003 to £91bn in 2013.

“We ensure that all the suppliers we work

with uphold internationally recognised regulations to ensure all garments we sell are made to the highest standards,” he continues.

“The cheapest garments will have skimped on either quality of materials, low pay of operatives or a mixture of both. Price is always a key issue, as schoolwear has long been seen as a ‘grudge’ purchase. However, we believe in the principle ‘Made for children and not by children’.”

Ultimately, one of the key measures of a business’ success is in its customer loyalty, and some customers have traded with Charles Kirk for over 40 years, including Lester Bowden of Epsom (est. 1898); Simmonds of Tunbridge Wells (est. 1837) and Monkhouse of Stockport (est. 1938). The Charles Kirk name has also managed to gain some celebrity status in its time, being the supplier of choice to provide the pullovers and scarves for the first three Harry Potter films and, more recently, supplying the hit stage show Matilda, both in London and New York.

With the milestone 75th anniversary offering a perfect opportunity to commemorate the business – past, present and future – Charles Kirk is hosting a 30s-themed tea party for employees, both old and current, at its factory. It is also celebrating the occasion by co-sponsoring, along with William Turner, the Schoolwear Association’s Roaring Twenties fundraising evening, which takes place during The Schoolwear Show dateline, on Monday 13 October at Hogarths Hotel in Solihull.

October 2014 - 53

NEWS • RETAIL • BRANDS • OPINION • FEATURES • PRODUCT • EVENTS • SCHOOLWEAR

_

To advertise on cwb-online.co.uk call Helen Hodson on 01484 846069 or email helen@ras-publishing.com

DIRECTORY | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

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1: 1880 CLUB 028 9332 7777 www.1880CLUB.com • 1 Two Kids 01383 735134 www.1two.co.uk A: aden + anais 020 7801 6279 www.adenandanais.co.uk • Akoa 01200 421200 www.trutex.com • Albert & Viktoria 07930 577605 www.albertandviktoria.com • Annaliv 020 8144 2118 www.annaliv.co.uk B: Balmoral 01900 829229 www.balmoralknitwear.biz • Bambi 07796 766669 www.bambi.hr • Bêjaks 020 7666 3210 www.bejaks.com • Best Years 01327 262189 www.bestyears.co.uk • Blade & Rose 07920 752260 www.bladeandrose.co.uk • Bloch 07971 470549 www.blochshop.co.uk • Blue Max Banner 01225 715070 www.bluemaxbanner.co.uk • Bo-bell 07809 426922 www.bo-bell.com • Bobux 01280 700949 www.bobux.com • British Exporters Association 020 7222 5419 www.bexa.co.uk • Britt 0033 660630390 www.brittbear.com.au • Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services UK 01925 854360 www.bureauveritas.co.uk/cps C: Chadwick Teamwear 0161 927 2565 www.chadwicktextiles.co.uk • Charles Kirk 01903 244863 www.charleskirk.co.uk • Charvin James 07909 900700 www.charvinjames.co.uk • Chipmunks 01925 710110 www.chipmunksfootwear.co.uk • Craftholic 020 7993 8668 www.pangoproductions.com • Colourful Dove 07780 603446 www.colourfuldove.com • Cuddledry 01823 323363 www.cuddledry.com • Cybertill 0800 030 4432 www.cybertill.co.uk D: David Luke 0161 272 7474 www.davidluke.com • D for Diamond 01376 532 000 www.geckojewellery.com • Diamond Textiles 0116 251 0121 www.diamondtextiles.co.uk • Didriksons 01275 390451 www.didriksons.com • Dr Martens 0845 769 7178 www.drmartens.com E: Emel 0845 463 8757 www.emelshoes.com • Emile et Rose 01664 823924 www.emile-et-rose.co.uk F: Falcon 01274 306440 www.falconsports.co.uk • Froddo 01707 888388 www.froddo.com G: Gioseppo 0116 259 7427 www.gioseppo.com H: Halbro 01204 696476 www.halbro.com • Hatley 020 7544 4833 www.hatley.com • Helix 01384 286860 www.mapedhelix.co.uk • Hug & Hatch 01843 652031 www.hugandhatch.com J: Janod 020 8878 2133 www.janod.com K: Ketchup on Everything 07967 334797 www.ketchuponeverything.co.uk • KK Schoolwear 028 7963 2188 www.kkschoolwear.com • K.T. Labels 0121 689 2211 www.kwiktapelabels.com L: Lazy Francis 07525 936058 www.lazyfrancis.com • Lea Lelo 07761 437793 www.lealelo.com • Little Pets by Petasil 01604 876800 www.petasilkidsshoes.com • Lollipop Designs www.lollipopdesigns.co.uk 07919 536638 M: Mousehouse Gifts 01606 868000 www.mousehousegifts.co.uk • Move by Melton 07702 610006 www.movefootwear.com • Murphy & Nye 020 8203 0151 www.amcomarketing.co.uk N: National Weaving 01834 861446 www.nationalweaving.co.uk • Nirvana Debonair 07950 250424 www.nirvanadebonair.co.uk O: Oil & Water 07900 187669 www.oilandwater.com • Opro 01442 430690 www.oprogroup.com P: Pango Productions 020 7993 8668 www.pangoproductions.com • Pediped 07703 856072 www.pediped.com • Pippo 0191 246 1474 www.pippofootwear.com • Primigi 020 8567 2384 www.primigi.it • Project Jelly in collaboration with JuJu 07961 986806 www.projectjelly.com R: Richter 07834 862770 www.richter.at • Ricosta 0116 259 7427 www.ricosta.co.uk • Rowlinson 0161 477 7791 www.rowlinson-knitwear.com S: Sally Nencini 07866 802238 www.sallynencini.com • Scamp 07957 151996 www.wearescamp.co.uk • Spotty Otter 01226 379777 www.spottyotter.co.uk • Superfit 07775 995547 www.superfit.at T: Tails and Tales www.tailsandtales.co.uk • Tamiko 0035 45534300 www.nicuwear.com • The Magic Door Store 07891 683001 www.themagicdoorstore.com • The Magic Touch 01582 671444 www.themagictouch.co.uk • TinyTodds 020 7000 1988 www.tinytodds.com • Toby Tiger 01903 766777 www.tobytiger.com • Toughees 01202 707461 www.newbrandslimited.co.uk • Trutex 01200 421200 www.trutex.com U: Urban Merino 07981 228599 www.urban-merino.com W: William Turner/Unicol 0161 480 8582 www.unicol-schoolwear.co.uk October 2014 - 55

DIRECTORY | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

ACCESSORIES

BABY & KIDS SHOES

MANNEQUINS

SCHOOLWEAR

Exclusive Childrens Tights & Socks.

Crystal Tights Made with SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS

Luxury Cotton Tights available in over 50 colours Sold in the worlds finest children’s boutiques & department stores

Country Kids Flint Hall Farm, Flower Lane, Godstone, Surrey RH9 8DE, UK Tel: 01883 740066 Fax: 01883 731555 Email: ian@countrykidstights.com Web: www.countrykidstights.com

• Soft Leather Shoes • Handmade in England • No Minimum Order Tel: 01509 817600 www.starchildshoes.co.uk

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Hair Accessories, Jewellery, Belts, Braces, Bags, Purses, Sunglasses Tiaras, Wands, Wings, Watches, and School range.

For a free brochure: tel:0208 207 2500 or email: info@balloonbijoux.co.uk www.balloonbijoux.co.uk

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HATS & SWIMWEAR Schoolwear Scho Sc hoo ho o lwea wear r Accessories Acc A cce esso ssorie sso rie ies s

www.unicol-schoolwear.co.uk www.unicol-schoolwear ear.co .co.uk Tel: T el: 0161 480 8582 sales@william-turner william-turner.co.uk william-turner.co .co.uk Primrose Marketing Ltd. Tel: 01494 447000 sales@primrosemktg.co.uk

www.primrosemktg.co.uk

BABY & KIDS SHOES

Warth Industrial Park, Warth Road, Bury BL9 9NB Tel: 0161 761 5151 Fax: 0161 762 0202 Email: tieandscarf@chaytow.com Web: www.tieandscarf.co.uk

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helen@ras-puBlishing.com October 2014 - 56

PROMOTION | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

CWB ShOWrOOMS: The essential index to agents and showrooms in the Uk & Ireland SOUTH EAST

SOUTH WEST

vanhuizen The Old Barn, Shurnhold Farm Business Park, Bath Road, Melksham, Wiltshire SN12 8DF Tel: 01225 700699 Mobile: 07785 290154 Email: Monique@vanhuizen.co.uk Web: www.vanhuizen.co.uk www.oililybag.co.uk MIM-PI, PAGLIE

IRELAND

nuala mcKenna 40 Bedford Street, Belfast BT2 7FF Tel: 0044 28 90236330 Fax: 0044 28 90236330 Email: nuala@mckenna.orangehome.co.uk EMILE-ET-ROSE, KANZ, LILLY & SID, HATLEY, LOFFF, STEIFF, STARDUST FIRST COMMUNION DRESSES, FIRST OCCASION CHRISTENING WEAR, TORRES DRESSES High quality children’s fashions for babies, boys and girls up to 14 years - specialising in occasionwear.

Showrooms in Belfast, Dublin, Cork & Limerick.

SKyline agencieS

nigel roSS agencieS 5 Evelyn Grove, Ealing, London, W5 3QG Tel: 0208 992 0552 Mobile: 07860 230918 Fax: 020 8993 6568 Email: Nigel.Ross@btinternet.com Web: www.minizzz.com CATYA (IT), MINIZZZ Manufacturers’ and Distributors’ Agent - Northern and Southern Home Counties, including London Postal districts. NCWA and APSA member.

aSpecT cSv

NORTH WEST

weldon agencieS Weldon Agencies, Southport, Merseyside Tel: 01704 576033 Email: barrieweldon@btconnect.com, andrewweldon@btconnect.com www.weldonagencies.co.uk FUN & FUN, LE CHIC, DEUX PAR DEUX, NO NO, BOBOLI, FOQUE, SARDON, MOOD STREET Established for over 25 years, two generations, covering all areas of the UK. Representing leading brands from Europe and Canada, catering for boys and girls 0 to 16 years. Styling from contemporary to traditional.

Unit H7 & H7a, Capital House, 2 Michael Road, London SW6 2AD Tel: 0207 348 7316 Email: info@solobi.co.uk Web: www.solobi.co.uk MINI A TURE, TOFFEE MOON, LILLE BARN, AYA NAYA SoLoBi represents modern high quality children’s brands with a playful attitude and sharp attention to detail. Offers very good and transparent service.

BreiTenSTein agencieS 19 Addison Grove, Chiswick, W4 1 EP Tel: 078 5550 9069 Fax: 02081816458 Email: shoes@breitensteins.com clothes@breitensteins.com ANGULUS AND BOBUX SHOES, CLOTHES FROM CHRISTINA ROHDE, MILIBE, VER DE TERRE, FUB CHILDREN’S WEAR An agency representing classic, stylish and contemporary Danish children’s clothing and shoe brands. Plus the best baby shoes from New Zealand.

MIDLANDS

NORTH EAST

Showrooms will be held in Leeds, Manchester and London for further info contact Bib Sohel Tel 07850 754 853 email bib.sohel@sky.com DESIGUAL, FORE!! AXEL AND HUDSON, LEMMI, BEBE BY MINIHAHA, DARCY BROWN, SUGARLOAF KIDS, MINI VANILLA, MINI ZZZ A diverse selection of highly desirable brands for UK independents and stores from baby to 16yrs.

European distributor for Fore!! Axel and Hudson.

SoloBi

Bizspace Business Centre, Unit 203, 4-6 Wadsworth Road, Perivale, Middlesex UB6 7JJ Tel: 020 8567 2384 Mobile: 07971 190446 Fax: 0800 007 3359 Email: skylineagencies@gmail.com PRIMIGI SHOES, FALKE & BURLINGTON SOCKS AND TIGHTS, GIESSWEIN HOME SHOES Covering the whole of the UK with London based showroom and offices.

vanhuizen agencieS Unit 1, First Floor, Paragon Works, Wilsthorpe Road, Long Eaton, Nottingham NG10 3JW. Tel: 07967 560633 Email: franck@vanhuizenagencies.co.uk Web: www.vanhuizenagencies.co.uk OILILY CHILDRENSWEAR, ROOM SEVEN CHILDRENSWEAR, PERSNICKETY CHILDRENSWEAR ROOM SEVEN KIDS INTERIORS, BEDDINGHOUSE KIDS BEDDING

Van Huizen Agencies is a young, fresh and vibrant agency, for the more discerning retailer requiring beautiful and unique collections.

NATIONAL

charvin JameS 10 Ledward Lane, Bowdon, Altrincham, Cheshire, WA14 3AD Tel: 0161 900 2409 Email: karen.james@charvinjames.co.uk Web: www.charvinjames.co.uk LES ENFANTINES (BY LANVIN FAMILY), BBK (SHORTLISTED FOR JUNIOR DESIGN AWARD), MARCHAND D’ETOILES, L’OISEAU BATEAU, CHARLIE CRANE, BLUE POPPIES Specialists in high-end French labels. Exciting emerging brands: children’s fashion, children’s shoes and children’s furniture and accessories.

roccapina Roccapina, 8 Pembroke Close, Thrapston, Northants, NN14 4XJ Tel: 01832 776588 Fax: 01832 730188 Email: sales@roccapina.co.uk www.roccapina.co.uk LA QUEUE DU CHAT, BABINÉ BB, STURE&LISA, LEMON LOVES LIME, LOLLIPOP TWIRL, LEMON LOVES LAYETTE, GNU BRAND Agency representing high quality International brands offering classic, colourful and chic collections for ages 0-14 years. Covering the whole of the UK.

CWB ShOW rOOMS: October 2014 - 57

TALKING POINT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

TIMOThy ChARLES owner and designer of Tails and Tales

Timothy charles discusses the innovative concept behind his luxury childrenwear brand, which merges childhood imagination and storytelling with high-quality, design-led clothing.

—

Laura Turner: What inspired the launch of Tails and Tales?

Timothy Charles: As a parent, I have always been looking at inspirational and exciting brands. I love seeing the development of children (whether my nephews or more recently my daughter) especially when their imagination drives their play. Even at a young age, kids want to immerse themselves into fantastical stories and share the experience with their story book heroes. The market seemed to be dominated by either adult-inspired, mini-fashion or heavily branded and often lower-quality material based clothing. The gap for merging storytelling and clothing in a way that celebrates the magic of childhood, but in line with a parent’s focus on quality material and design, became the source of inspiration and drive for starting Tails and Tales.

LT: How would you sum-up the brand concept?

TC: Balancing a child’s playfulness with the long-term practicality and style that appeals to parents. I want my clothing to be part of this childhood discovery and self-expression – a way for children to immerse themselves into a magic character-inspired world but, importantly, I want to see kids dressed well, in high-quality, design-led clothing.

LT: What was your career prior to Tails and Tales and what experience has it provided in terms of developing your brand?

TC: I have a broad range of experiences and inspirations that led to the development of the

concept behind the brand. These include my role as a father but also my family’s background across the Middle East, the UK and Americas, all of which underpin the imaginative and fun theme running throughout the brand. Furthermore, I have brought my experience in design, retail and finance to complement my partner Nat’s skills and innovation to develop a brand focused on quality, originality and, most importantly, fun!

LT: What does the collection comprise?

TC: Tails and Tales’ first season is inspired by Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland’s main characters of Alice, the Queen of Hearts and the Mad Hatter. With a focus on design and practicality, using high-quality fabrics and trimmings, each item is designed to keep kids entertained and parents happy. They combine high-quality longevity with style and versatile fun. Tails and Tales’ range allows kids to reflect their personalities, but is flexible enough to be worn as everyday clothing.

LT: Which is your favourite piece to date?

TC: The launch collection has a signature “Alice dress”, which is impossible not to love, but my personal favourite is the Red Queen inspired range. The combination of the jacket, dress and skirt becomes a striking and original set, which captures both the quirkiness within the books and also the flexibility of our brand. These three pieces combine in an outfit that reflects a magical adventure in waiting but, when separated, are flexible and individual, everyday items.

Name: Timothy Charles Job title: Owner and designer of the Place of birth: Wimbledon Now lives: Battersea

LT: Which other childrenswear brands do you admire?

TC: I love Jessie and James and No Added Sugar. They both reflect an individual style that is both fun and distinctive; elements that I aspire to with our range. I hope to have a collection that is distinctive and recognisable as Tails and Tales, which is something these brands do so well.

LT: What’s in store for a/w 15?

TC: We are currently expanding the current Alice in Wonderland inspired collection, building on the foundations of our launch range. Think more colour combinations and a broader range of items.

LT: Are there plans to expand the Tails and Tales collection over time?

TC: Our original plans were to use each collection to introduce a new adventure, inspired by fairy tales and children’s favourite books. We have lots of ideas about new collections, and aim to build up anticipation each season as to what might be coming next.

LT: Do you have any exciting plans in the pipeline for the brand?

TC: Sometimes I think too many, but you’ll have to wait and see.

October 2014 - 58

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