MWB MAGAZINE JUNE 2013 by fashion buyers Ltd

ISSUE 203 | JUNE 2013 | £6.95 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

THE EXHIBITIONIST THE DATES AND LOCATIONS YOU NEED TO KNOW THIS BUYING SEASON — PUTTING THE S IN STYLE THE FACES BEHIND NEW STREET AND SPORTSWEAR SHOW S LONDON

JUNE 2013 | CONTENTS | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 03

R E T A I L 10

Online Insider

Retail Insider

Advice, news and issues online The latest in-store news

G E N T 20

Product news

Change in season

Eton’s ﬁnest

Rounding up the key stories this month Key summer products to get in-store now The shirt specialist makes its mark on Mayfair

E U R O P E A N S H O W G U I D E 28

Pitti Uomo

Bread & Butter

Jacket Required

Gallery

Exhibition calendar

Six of the key labels to catch at this month’s show Brands to catch at the spring/summer 2014 edition What’s in store for London’s key menswear show The best of Scandinavian style Dates, locations and brands to catch this season

D E N I M

Product news

Sweat it out

S T R E E T

What’s happening in denim and street Retro sweatshirts available to buy in-store now

R E G U L A R S 5 6 16

Comment News Interview

51 52 55 58

Society Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With…

Carl Burnham and Brad Farrant

Richard Robinson Front cover

Beastin 020 7012 1420 –

Showcasing the Best of British Menswear

16.06.13 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 18.06.13 londoncollections.co.uk

Photography: Alexander Kent, Set design: Charlotte Lawton

JUNE 2013 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 05

commeNT EDITOR Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com — DEPUT Y

EDITOR

Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — CONTRIBUTORS Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — SUB

EDITOR

Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — DESIGNERS Michael Podger michael@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — SALES

MANAGER

Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — SUB SCRIPTIONS Lydia Bennett lydia.bennett@ite-exhibitions.com — HEAD

MENSWEAR

Jamie Harden jamie@moda-uk.co.uk — PRODUCTION

DIRECTOR

I attended the Natwest UK Fashion & Textile Awards recently, and what a fantastic night it was. Some of the best names in British menswear, womenswear, footwear and accessories came under one grand roof to celebrate their achievements over the past 12 months. —

Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — COMMERCIAL

DIRECTOR

Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — MARKETING

DIRECTOR

Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — MANAGING

DIRECTOR

Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com —

MWB is published 11 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2013 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication. Reprographics/printing Image Colourprint Ltd 01482 652323 —

The evening saw 11 awards presented, including the Let’s make it Here UK manufacturer of the Year and Textile Business of the Year accolades, which were both given to Harris Tweed Hebrides. christopher Raeburn, meanwhile, was the recipient of the Designer of the Year award, following not only his commercial success in both domestic and international markets, but his collaboration with Swiss label Victorinox. One of the success stories of the night for me was The Cambridge Satchel Company, who scooped the Exporter of the Year award. Many of you will know the meteoric rise of Julie Deane and her mother Freda Thomas, who, in 2008, began making handmade leather satchels from their kitchen table. After an incredible viral buzz created through Deane’s relationship with bloggers who featured the satchels online, The Cambridge Satchel Company has grown to be recognised the world over, with many high-street retailers trying to emulate the success of the simple school satchel. If you’re ﬂying out to Pitti Uomo this month, be sure to pop by and see the menswear collection. Which leads me to our exhibition issue – our comprehensive seasonal guide to the shows to visit, the brands to check out and the names to watch for spring/summer 2014. The MWB team will be heading to Florence, Berlin, Paris, Copenhagen and, of course, our home-grown shows including Jacket Required, Flip, Moda and the inaugural edition of new street and sportswear show S London. Turn to page 16 to discover the faces behind this new UK exhibition and what to expect come opening day. Next month brings the ﬁrst part of our guide to the new season, as well as the brands we’ve discovered as we travel across Europe. Remember, if you spot any of the MWB team at the shows, come and say hello. And, as always, you can tweet us @mwbmagazine or email us with any comments. Victoria Jackson editor

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. RAS Publishing Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.

JUNE 2013 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 06

N E W S

EXPANDED SHOW ROOM FOR BESTSELLER

U K LU X U RY SECTOR SET TO DOU BLE The UK luxury sector is forecast to almost double in size over the next five years, growing from £6.6bn to £12.2bn in 2017, according to a recent report by luxury nonfor-profit organisation Walpole and market research firm Ledbury Research. Despite the difficult trading environment, 83 per cent of British luxury brands are expecting to see a rise in sales during 2013, with a predictive growth of 12 per cent to £7.4bn by the end of this year. While London remains the hub of luxury sales, 81 per cent of premium brands have a presence in other areas of the country. The largest regions after London are currently the South East and North West, while during 2012 Manchester was reported to be the city with the strongest luxury sales outside the capital. “London is home to the majority of luxury goods sales and continues to attract vast numbers of international shoppers,” says Michael Ward, managing director of Harrods. “It is important, however, not to overlook the regions; the majority of UK luxury brands have a presence outside the capital, and tier-one cities such as Manchester and Edinburgh are key luxury hubs.” Tourist trade, meanwhile, continues to be crucial to the British luxury industry, and while American visitors remain the most important nationality in terms of luxury purchases, the Chinese are the fastest growing group of luxury shoppers to the UK. Outside of the UK, key potential growth for British luxury labels lie in Brazilian, Indian, Russian and Chinese markets. To date, only 13 per cent of British brands have operations in the Brazilian market but, with the Olympics and World Cup attracting millions of visitors to the country, 52 per cent of brands have plans to enter the market. Ed Craig, head of retail and leisure at Charles Russell LLP, says, “Even in the bleakest of economic climates, there are pockets of people around the globe who remain extremely wealthy. Britain is well placed to take advantage of the increasing demand for luxury brands. We have so many brands that offer the heritage and craftsmanship that many increasingly discerning consumers crave.” —

Danish fashion house Bestseller has expanded its Manchester showroom, taking over the entire sixth floor of the city’s Arndale House. The company, whose portfolio includes menswear labels Jack & Jones and Selected Homme, made the move specifically to promote Jack & Jones, which now has a dedicated space in the showroom. “Over the past five years, Jack & Jones has seen a steady growth year on year, but one area of the label that has not increased and improved has been the way in which we showcase the product,” says Anneli Willis, head of marketing and public relations. “The resources and showrooms in Denmark are second to none, and we felt it was time our Manchester showroom should also represented the brand in the correct way.” —

UKFT HERALDS INCREASE FUNDING FOR TRADE SHOWS The UK Fashion & Textile Association (UKFT) has reported a dramatic increase in funding for UK exporters to take part in key international trade shows. In the financial year 2013/4 and 2014/5, UKFT has received a commitment from UK Trade & Investment (UKTI) to almost double the amount of money available. Grants for European shows will increase from £1,000 to £1,500 per show, and exhibitors at key US shows will see grants almost double to £2,000. For shows in Europe and the US, UK SME companies will have a lifetime allocation of six grantsupported shows. In addition, for shows in emerging markets, companies will be eligible for a further six grants, and for these markets the grants will be £2,500-£3,000. —

JUNE 2013 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 07

IN BRIEF

N EWGEN MEN RECIPIENTS REVEALED FOR S/S 14

BA RBOUR RECEIVES FUNDING FOR EXPANSION

The British Fashion Council (BFC) has revealed the seven menswear designers who will receive Newgen Men sponsorship to showcase their s/s 14 collections at London Collections: Men next month. The initiative, sponsored by Topman, is designed to highlight and showcase the brightest emerging talent in British menswear. Catwalk sponsorship has been awarded to Agi & Sam, Astrid Andersen, Lee Roach, Matthew Miller, Nasir Mazhar and Shaun Samson. Martine Rose, meanwhile, will receive presentation sponsorship. “The designers participating represent the best of Britain’s exceptional emerging talent and, with the support for six catwalk shows and one presentation, this season’s Newgen Men is set to be even more exciting than ever before,” says Caroline Rush, CEO of the British Fashion Council. —

British label Barbour has received £549,000 in funding from the government’s Regional Growth Fund to expand capacity and export to new markets. The investment will allow the brand to create 130 jobs in its North East headquarters. “Barbour clearly has the right approach to skills, and its Academy with Hartlepool College will ensure it retains the diverse range of practical skills it needs to stay ahead of the competition,” says business secretary Vince Cable. Barbour’s finance director, Brenda Readman-Bell, says the investment will help to create more jobs in the area. “We support long-term employment and commercial longevity in the North East, and the grant will enable us to extend our warehouse and factory facilities and secure additional employment opportunities.” —

BER N HA R DT EX PA N DS TO MIDDLE EA ST

T.LIPOP AND RIVER ISL AND A NNOUNCE COLL ABORATION

Formalwear specialist Bernhardt has introduced itself to the Middle Eastern market, following a four-day event in Dubai earlier this year. The made-to-measure label caters for both the men’s and womenswear market, and recently Bernhardt presented a series of tailors at the city’s Capital Club DIFC to showcase its production process of fabric, style selection and measuring. The brand offers a personalised custom finish, following its mantra of “The only limit to your suit is your imagination”, and offers a wide choice of linings, threads and trims. Following the success of the Dubai event, Bernhardt is considering holding a similar showcase in other cities across the world. —

British design house T.Lipop is set to join forces with high-street retailer River Island for autumn/winter 2013 with a 16-piece menswear line. With its signature technical design ethos and sharp, architectural silhouettes, T.Lipop was shortlisted by the retailer earlier last year to create a capsule collection as part of the store’s Design Forum initiative. The inspiration for the collection is “function = form”, mixing elements of tailoring and sportswear. Available in select stores nationwide this September, the collection will include apparel as well as accessories pieces such as a black calfskin rucksack and mirrored rounded glasses. —

MR PORTER COLLABORATES WITH ALEXANDRE MATTIUSSI Online retailer Mr Porter has joined forces with designer Alexandre Mattiussi to create an exclusive collection for spring/summer 2013. The 13-piece capsule line comprises tailored blazers, jackets and trousers and is available on the site now. The collaboration is the first of three for the menswear e-tailer, which will include Raf Simons for Mr Porter set to launch 28 June. This follows Alexander Wang for Mr Porter, which launched earlier this month. — SMES RELUCTANT TO RECRUIT MORE STAFF Most small businesses are waiting until there is an improvement in trading conditions before they recruit more staff, according to a poll carried out by the Forum of Private Business. The Forum, which released its results last month, polled its members about their views on the economy and unemployment, and discovered that more than half have put a freeze on further recruitment until conditions improve. The news comes as a double blow to the trade, which not only relies on the addition of new staff to grow and develop, but also on the disposable income of consumers in employment to boost sales figures. Specifically, one in three small businesses are waiting for employment costs to come down, while a quarter are waiting to see an increase in their own profit margins before taking on new staff. “This research shows many firms are holding back on recruitment until after next April when the new measures take effect and national insurance costs drop,” says the Forum’s chief executive, Phil Orford. “We can also see that a significant number of employers are waiting for a marked change in profit levels – and therefore significant economic growth – before they consider taking on more staff.” — ALLSAINTS LAUNCHES FILM DIVISION High-street group AllSaints has launched a film division within the company, entitled AllSaints Film. A fully operational unit, AllSaints Film will look at and develop music, style and street documentaries, as well as moving image installations. Committed to commissioning young film-makers, as well as producing in-house content, the projects will be overseen by the brand’s creative director, Wil Beedle. — BFC ANNOUNCES FASHION FORWARD RECIPIENTS The British Fashion Council has awarded its Fashion Forward sponsorship to designers Christopher Raeburn, Sibling and Lou Dalton for s/s 14. The initiative recognises and promotes the UK fashion industry’s design talents. The three designers will receive tailored business support, in addition to a financial award to assist in showing either a catwalk show or presentation at London Collections: Men this month. —

JUNE 2013 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 08

IN BRIEF

BRIT ISH L ABELS LOOK TO CHINESE MARKET FOR GROWTH

TOW N CEN T R E VACA N CY R AT ES INCREASE FURTHER

Shanghai trade show Novomania is set to welcome a number of British labels looking to enter the growing Chinese market to its spring/summer 2014 edition. With a brand new location in Shanghai Mart – in the centre of the burgeoning Chinese youth fashion market – the new space covers 37,000 sq m and is split into six areas – Denim, Fashion & Chic, Shoes & Accessories, Sport & Street and Real Estate. Labels signed up to exhibit at the July edition include Voi Jeans, Superdry, Levi’s, GAS and Scotch & Soda, among many others. “In the fashion industry, all eyes seem to be on China,” says Zubair Mal, international manager, Voi Jeans Co. “The whole industry has boomed over the last 10 years, and it seems to be the front runner when it comes to fashion and economic growth.” —

National town centre vacancy rates in the UK were 11.9 per cent in April, up from 10.9 per cent in January 2013. Despite the increase, footfall during April was 1.0 per cent higher year-on-year from 2012, an improvement on the 5.2 per cent fall in March this year. “It’s a concern that the vacancy rate has reached a record high, driven by increases in almost every part of the UK, with regions such as the South West seeing a significant leap in empty shop numbers,” says Helen Dickinson, British Retail Consortium director general. “With high streets topping the agenda for many, there is a real opportunity to seize the moment and stem the tide of further closures. Comparatively small steps to tackle deep-rooted issues such as parking, accessibility and rising business costs could make a huge difference to the health of town centres.” —

PR IM A R K OFFER S FIN A N CIA L A ID TO R A N A PL A Z A VICT IM S

N EW LOOK FOR GOL A

Primark is to provide short-term financial aid to all workers and their families who have been affected by the collapse of the Rana Plaza building in Dhaka. The funding will be offered for six weeks, ensuring all workers and dependents are supported financially short term, while long-term compensation and measures are being put in place. The company has pledged to work on a long-term financial compensation package for the employees and affected families who were working in its supplier factory in the building. Furthermore, the company is continuing with its food aid programme, providing food parcels to around 1,000 families a week. —

Footwear label Gola has launched a new online destination designed to reflect the contemporary and fashion-conscious identity of its target consumer base. The brand has also incorporated a fully responsive design, meaning the website will automatically adapt itself to the optimum display depending on the device on which the site is viewed. “Gola’s new responsive design website will enhance customers’ online experience, allowing them to view the site in the optimum resolution regardless of the device they use,” says Donna Hill, the brand’s PR & marketing manager. “Additionally, the inclusion of all Gola’s product collections will further educate users on the brand’s full and diverse product portfolio.” —

GAP REVEALS PROFIT INCREASE Analysis Gap Inc, parent company of Gap, Old Navy and Banana Republic, has revealed a 43 per cent increase in its first-quarter net income. “We are pleased with our strong start to the year, especially first-quarter sales,” says Glenn Murphy, chairman and CEO of Gap. “The consumer has been operating pretty much for the last five-plus years in a very challenging environment.” Revenue at Gap stores opened for at least a year were up by two per cent, with global businesses at both Gap and Old Navy increasing by three per cent respectively. — RIVER ISLAND EYES NEW FLAGSHIP Fashion retailer River Island is to open a new flagship store on Oxford Street. On track to open this month, the store will be housed in the Park House building and will span three floors and measure 20,000 sq ft. The shop will feature an increased menswear department and will celebrate the opening with branded taxis to take customers to the new store. — INCREASED FASHION SPEND ONLINE A whopping 47 per cent of consumers are said to be conducting their fashion purchases online, a recent survey by price comparison site PriceGrabber.co.uk indicates. The survey questioned almost 1,000 online shoppers from across the UK, with nearly half of the respondents admitting that they are buying the majority of their fashion on websites. The survey illustrates the continued rise in e-commerce sales in the fashion sector and is also reflected within PriceGrabber’s own results, with the site having seen its clothing category grow in volume over the past few years. "In recent months we have witnessed huge growth in our fashion category and it is now the most visited area of the site. We are able to offer shoppers product and merchant reviews and the opportunity to purchase big name brands at the best prices available. Some of our popular brands include North Face, Adidas, Barbour, Oakley and Ugg. We continue to expand and broaden our fashion category,” says Justin Sedgmond, head of PriceGrabber.co.uk. — COS EXPANDS INTO TURKEY Swedish fashion brand Cos expands into new territory this season with the opening of a flagship store in Turkish city of Istanbul. The brand, which aims to offer timeless designs that transcend the seasons for both men and women, will open the store in the city’s Zorlu Centre later in the year. “We are all looking forward to the opening,” says Marie Honda, overall brand manager responsible for Cos. “Istanbul is a vibrant city and we feel that the Zorlu Centre will be the ideal setting.” —



                 

JUNE 2013 | ADVICE | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 10

ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.

ADVICE: HOW TO mAxImISE CUSTOmER ENGAGEmENT THROUGH EmAIL SUBSCRIPTIONS

JIm DAVIDSON is the manager of market research at Bronto.co.uk and is available through ﬁeldworksmarketing.co.uk

Every subscriber list carries dead weight. If ignored, the population of subscribers who are completely ignoring your emails will swell, which may lead to deliverability problems for your email programme. The data hygiene benefits of launching a re-engagement series targeted at these subscribers are clear, and doing so can also be an opportunity to generate sales. Triggering an email when a subscriber reaches a threshold of inactivity to let them know they are missed and remind them of the value of being part of the email programme may be enough to re-engage the subscriber. Introducing a limited-time offer in a following message triggered to those who ignored the first email introduces a sense of urgency and a larger value proposition to the dormant subscriber. The next email could remind the subscriber that their limited-time offer is about to expire. The final email, sent to those who ignored the previous emails, should let them know they will be removed from the list if they do not take an action. While this approach is effective for a broad audience, you may want to take a more targeted approach. Compare purchasers to non-purchasers. Does this analysis indicate how long it might take for each group to become inactive? A high number of one-time purchasers may indicate that encouraging ongoing engagement after that first purchase could lead to improved customer loyalty. “We REALLY miss you! Check out our EXCLUSIVE offer just for you!” is an example that pulls out all the stops. From the selective usage of capital letters in the subject line coupled with free loyalty points and a coupon, the brand is letting the subscriber know they are valued while giving them every reason to start shopping. Identifying missed revenue opportunities across the customer lifecycle is a worthwhile endeavour. Not only will you gain additional sales, but you will provide your customers with an engaging and relevant email programme to drive loyalty. —

WEB WATCH

WWW.GOODHOODSTORE.COm As slick and comprehensive as its bricks-and-mortar shop in Hoxton, The Good Hood Store’s online retail arm caters across the board from menswear to womenswear to lifestyle. With each product photographed in-house, consistency is key and, with the addition of illustrative text accompanying each brand category, the shopper instantly knows more about the label they are potentially buying into. —

NEWS

MenInvest acquIres okI-nI.coM French fashion group MenInvest has acquired uk online store oki-ni.com. Backed by investors aXa Private equity, Partech International, 123 venture and orkos capital, the group will develop oki-ni.com into a a creative and luxury window for MenInvest’s online destination, menlook.com. a strong investment in product offer, service and marketing will also be executed. Founded in 2001 by Ben Banks, Gino Da’Prato, charles Perez and Dominique signoret, oki-ni.com sells a carefully curated selection of labels including rick owens, alexander Mcqueen, comme Des Garcons, kenzo and raf simons. attracting around 500k unique visitors a month, the premium online destination ships to over 75 countries worldwide – with 40 per cent of sales coming from the uk, followed by Japan, Germany and the us. MenInvest founder Marc Menase says this will add to the existing MenInvest e-commerce portfolio, which sees 1.5 million unique visitors per month across 60 countries. “I am very proud of this acquisition as it reflects the entrepreneurial values of MenInvest,” says Menase. “It is a key piece of our growth strategy to reach €100m revenue by 2016 and become the global online men’s fashion destination.” a key element of the acquisition is the elevation and continued support of two of the co-founders of oki-ni.com, Banks and Perez, as shareholders and advisors of the MenInvest Group. —

urBAN // strEEt // dENim // liFE

// 11-13 August 2013 + NEC BirmiNghAm // modA-uk.Co.uk/Flip

JUNE 2013 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 12

RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry. —

VIEWPOINT Richard Wheelhouse is owner of Keith James menswear in Horsforth, Leeds, and is a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB).

LE COQ SPORTIF OPEN S FIR ST U K STOR E Iconic French sports label Le Coq Sportif has launched its first UK store, located in Seven Dials, Covent Garden. The store measures 256.61 sq m and is situated on the corner of Earlham and Mercer Street, with the brand expecting it to become its key concept store in Europe. Le Coq Sportif, which celebrated its 130th anniversary last year along with a return to the Tour de France as official supplier of the leader jerseys, offers apparel, footwear and accessories for both men and women in its new standalone store. There are also limited-edition collections available including the Tour de France La Grande Boude range, as well as the Le Coq Sportif x Heimstone collaboration, offering a range of retro running sneakers. At the store opening last month, guests enjoyed a French-themed party, including a set by DJ Marare, and drinks such as French beer Gallia, French wine and champagne. —

IN BRIEF NEW STORE OPENINGS FOR CANALI Italian menswear brand Canali continues to expand in China, opening its fourth boutique in Shanghai. The 200 sq m retail space is located in the luxury Westgate Mall and presents a new architectural concept, which reflects the brand’s values and tradition and draws on its renewed visual identity. The interior of the boutique, which has its entrance inside the Mall, skillfully combines fine materials, including silk georgette stone, luxurious leathers and smart crystal glass in shades of grey. —

KARL LAGERFELD OPENS SECOND PARIS CONCEPT STORE Designer brand Karl Lagerfeld has opened its second concept store in the Le Marais district in Paris. Situated at 25 rue Vieille du Temple, the shop will target fashion-forward locals and tourists who are frequenting the district. It is the second concept store for the label to launch in Paris this year, following the opening of the Boulevard Saint Germain branch in February. The new shop will offer the brand’s accessible luxury lines from its women’s and men’s range, accessories and eyewear. —

As a retailer, an agent and an eternal but realistic optimist, I feel good about the future for the independent sector. — While things are deﬁnitely a lot harder than 10 years ago, when I took over the family business from my father, Keith, we are no longer living in, literally, a false economy. Where we are now is the new norm. It’s likely to be like this for a long time, and we all have to get on and manage it. On the imminent buying season, I imagine the ﬁrst question any independent buyer will ask a brand is, “Do you sell on the internet?” In the past three years, our consumers have become very attuned to checking prices on the web. One of the reasons Meyer, the German trouser brand I represent in the UK, does so well is because it doesn’t sell online itself. As an agent, I would be wary of taking on a label that sold direct from its own website or dealt with online-only shops. I spend a lot of my time policing the online pricing of Meyer products. Traditional retailers like me can only survive if we sell, where possible, most of our merchandise at full price and full margin, rather than forever reacting to someone else’s discount online. As well as a member of FAB, I am also a member of (and a supplier to) the IMC Buying Group. It’s been noticeable in recent seasons that smart IMC retailers have been dropping big-name brands in favour of the “unknown” labels from Europe that the IMC has an exclusive UK deal with. The styling is good, the quality is excellent and the margin is healthy. Customers have faith in us that if such a brand is in our shop, it must be desirable. As independents, we have to work harder to give the consumer an even better experience that is simply impossible to replicate online. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk —

JUNE 2013 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 13

SHOPPED: WELLGOSH How has trading been for you this spring/summer? Trade has been holding up well for us again this season despite the difficult conditions and the poor weather. Tees, vests and shorts are starting to move well as the summer weather threatens to make a late appearance. I think people are fed up of waiting and have finally taken the plunge. As usual, people are getting their holiday clobber sorted out around this time, so things are moving well. — What have been the star performers of the season, brand and product-wise? PETER TURNER WELLGOSH, Lyle & Scott is seeing a big resurgence. Its merchandising LEICESTER team has focused on creating a more tiered structure in the vintage range, and this is paying dividends. Adidas and Nike are as strong as ever, and we are noticing that a more technical trainer, such as the Adidas Primeknit or the Nike Flyknit Chukka, is in demand and being teamed up with a smarter outfit for a more directional look by a lot of our customers. — Looking ahead to the shows for spring/summer 2014, will you be looking to adapt your buying? I try to be optimistic, so I am still pushing forward in a positive way with the buying. I think our budgets will remain similar to this season, possibly with a little extra reserved for in-season replenishment of bestsellers. We also keep an eye out for the smaller, edgier brands. The new S London show looks interesting, so we’ll definitely be attending that one. —

IN FOCUS: WOODS 77 BANK STREET, mAIDSTONE, KENT mE14 1SJ

ESTABLISHED: 1989 — BRANDS ON OFFER: ARMANI, HUGO BOSS, BALDESSARINI, BOLONGARO TREVOR, CONNOLLY, ESEMPLARE, AGLINI, J LINDEBERG, NICOLE FARHI, TRUE RELIGION, JOHN SMEDLEY, SCOTCH & SODA, ANTHONY MORATO

Woods had traded from the same location in Maidstone for a little over 21 years, but it recently relocated its whole men’s and womenswear business to occupy the old Royal Star Hotel. Once the home of Maidstone’s main hostelry, the hotel still retains many of its original features, as well as its historical significance, and forms the major part of the prestigious Royal Star Arcade Shopping Centre. Woods opened its first shop in Chatham, Kent, in 1989, which it also still trades from. Ironically, this was the same year its new location in Maidstone was converted into an indoor shopping centre. Built in the 16th century, the original Star Hotel was an important coaching inn and a popular overnight stop for those taking the nine-hour trip between London and Folkestone. The 19th century saw the hotel get the royal seal of approval, and its Royal prefix, after a visit by a young Queen Victoria. Woods has painstakingly restored the 5,000 sq ft ground and first floors to retain the original hotel ambiance, including the Disraeli Balcony, which can now be accessed from the dedicated suit room, complete with oak-panelled walls and open-stone fireplace. There are even two giant 16-arm chandeliers in the stockroom, surely making it the grandest stockroom in the country?

GIBBS REBR AN DS WITH NEW BR A N D M IX Menswear independent retailer Gibbs welcomed guests, family and friends to celebrate the recent relaunch of the Scottish store. With a new logo and strapline – changed from Gibbs Tailored to Suit to Gibbs Gentleman’s Outfitter – the shop, located in Inverurie, welcomed the addition of new labels Gant, Hackett, Lacoste and Rockport to its existing brand mix, currently including Aigle, John Smedley and Eterna. “Obviously it takes a while to build your reputation to attract brands such as Hackett and Gant, but now is the right time to add these to our portfolio, which will hopefully widen our appeal and attract a younger customer,” says Barry Gibb, managing director. The event provided the perfect opportunity to welcome fellow local independents to the store, with Gibbs currently taking part in local initiative Inverurie4U (www.inverurie4u.com), a website where local businesses post offers and discounts that can be gained through the use of a I Love Local card. “It’s such a great way to attract customers instore and, instead of waiting for a change to happen, myself and local independents have developed this scheme together. I’ve currently got a 10 per cent discount off Hackett shirts to hopefully attract attention to the new addition, but also to get people walking through the door and spending money.” —

IN BRIEF SAND OPENS IN SAKS FIFTH AVENUE Scandinavian label Sand has opened its first shop-in-shop in Saks Fifth Avenue, New York. The premium department store recently installed a Sand shop on the seventh floor of its Fifth Avenue flagship, making a successful debut with the brand’s three lines – Pink Label, Black Label and Red Carpet Collection. According to Tom Ott, senior vice president and general merchandise manager of menswear, the response has been “explosive.” Moving forward, Sand’s strategy sees the expansion of the label in the US through additional in-store shops and freestanding retail stores. —

JUNE 2013 | PROMOTION | 14

ExPERIENCE mORE AT mODA 11-13 August 2013 NEC Birmingham The UK’s largest trade fashion exhibition is preparing to host the must-see brands from across the menswear sector. Prepare for the ultimate buying experience with our guide to this season’s moda. —

BRAX

The moda Gent bill is hotting up as key brands across the industry reveal the new direction for spring. Shirt label Olymp returns with a new collection of summer styles in a range of ﬁts, while quintessentially British label Gibson London unveils its latest line of tailoring with its unique city edge. Fellow London brand maddox Street London also reinterprets city style for the contemporary gent with its latest collection, which draws upon the quirky heritage of the English gentleman. At the more casual end of the sector, Dutch label State of Art returns to the exhibition with a suitably summery colour palette across its range of polos, shirts and footwear, while European label Brax reveals a collection which is equally celebratory of the summer season with its latest focus on premium casual clothing.

STATE OF ART

OLYMP

SE LE C T

F LI P

Bringing together the most contemporary and directional labels across the menswear and footwear sectors, Select once again provides a platform for fresh, new style this season. From the total-look oﬀer from British label Guide London to the more speciﬁc collections from brands such as accessories label Fanpac, Select brings together an eclectic range of labels designed to stand out from the sector. Manchester menswear brand Judge & Jury’s collection is inspired by Northern soul and street swagger, while Jekyll & Hyde adds vintageinspired styling to the season with its latest range of directional menswear. —

Now in its third season, urban trade show Flip returns to the NEC with a fresh new range of men’s and women’s brands across the surf, skate and street sectors. Making its Flip debut this season, surf label Reef arrives at the event with a vibrant range of washed out brights, toned-down neons and vintage Hawaiian prints across its men’s collection. Fellow debutante Björn Borg, meanwhile, interprets the colours of the season for the men’s intimate apparel sector, revealing a range of directional statement styles in underwear for s/s 14. Surf stalwart label Billabong also makes a welcome return to Flip, while m.O.D renews its focus on denim for the street sector. —

JUNE 2013 | PROMOTION | 15

W I NE , DI NE AND NE T WO R K Networking opportunities abound at Moda this season, with social events providing another chance to link up with new contacts. With the choice of ﬁne dining at Hampton Manor or a barbecue at the Beeches, Moda’s Monday night events oﬀer something to suit everyone’s style and preference. Beeches: £20pp, Hampton manor: £40pp (includes drinks reception, three course meal and half bottle of wine). Email Caroline mackinnon to book your tickets at caroline@moda-uk.co.uk or call +44 (0)1484 846069. — SPE C I ALI ST C AT WALK SHOW S

BILLABONG

The footwear & accessories catwalk will make a welcome return after launching last season. The industries’ hottest brands will feature at the catwalk theatre in Hall 20 alongside men’s tailoring & lifestyle and urban & contemporary catwalks. In addition, Hall 17 will showcase fashion, evening & occasionwear and lingerie & swimwear labels. Both catwalks also welcome a host of specially selected industry experts delivering a comprehensive programme of seminars. Plan what you want to see on the Moda website. —

J O I N T HE C O M M U NI T Y With so much going on around the show it pays to prepare. The Moda Community oﬀers you an essential online planning resource all year round. Open to all buyers, it gives you the facilities to organise and schedule appointments and make and follow up contacts with brands. The website also provides useful information about how to get to the show, what’s happening around the halls and the latest brand and industry news. —

BJÖRN BORG

M O DA O N T HE MOVE If you are on the move, the Moda app is another great way to keep up-to-date and get the latest news from the show once you are there. Essential updates available in the lead up to the show. Find out more at moda-uk.co.uk. —

For information on all the latest signings, full details of the catwalk and seminar programmes and to register for your free ticket, visit moda-uk.co.uk.

JUNE 2013 | INTERVIEW | 16

INTERVIEW

CARL BURNHAm BRAD FARRANT Carl Burnham of Spiv Agency and Brad Farrant of make Room Agency are the streetwear specialists behind new trade show S London, in association with Jacket Required. Located at a separate venue, the event will take place at the Boiler House on Brick Lane on the same dates, 31 July – 1 August. Tom Bottomley gets the lowdown. —

CARL BURNHAm | SPIV AGENCY BRAD FARRANT | mAKE ROOm AGENCY

Tom Bottomley: Why is the new show called S London? Brad Farrant: We wanted to keep it as generic as possible. The fact that it’s a streetwear and skate show lent itself to the letter S. It’s just clean and not over the top. — TB: How did the concept of the show come about? BF: We’re friends with Mark Batista and Craig Ford who put on Jacket Required, and we’re sales agents for brands ourselves. I have X Large and Wemoto with Make Room Agency, and Carl has Dickies, Altamont and Emerica with Spiv Agency. A lot of skateboard and streetwear shops in this country have a more boutique feel to them, so we wanted to put on a show that reﬂects that shift because there seems to be a gap in the market. Carl Burnham: There has never been a boutiquestyle show for our market. We’ve both been involved in the streetwear and skate sector for a long time, and we felt the timing was right to use the blueprint of Jacket Required, but for our sector. — TB: Why did you not just put on a show yourselves? CB: Well, we could do it ourselves, stump up the money, get involved with doing the risk assessments, providing electricity, space, rails and

JUNE 2013 | INTERVIEW | 17

so on, or we could speak to Mark and Craig and see what they say because they clearly know what they’re doing. The show is owned by ITE Moda, but we’re the sales and face of it. BF: Mark and Craig’s skills are more on the menswear fashion route, whereas our skills are in street and skatewear. So they’re letting us do our thing with their concept. We’re effectively consultants on what brands fit the bill. — TB: Where is the new show going to be? BF: The Boiler House on Brick Lane. It will be on at the same time as Jacket Required, which is in Holburn, and also on the Central Line. We also feel Brick Lane is a good area for a streetwear show. The area is full of street art. — TB: How many brands will be showing at the debut event? BF: There will be 38 for the first one. We’ve got labels such as Element, Rvca, X Large, Etnies, Altamont, Emerica, Dickies, Ice Cream, Lakai, WeSC, Skull Candy, Nixon and New Balance Numeric skate shoes – the European launch will be at this show. Jacket Required has grown to 140 brands, so in order to enter into this sector of the market it makes sense to have a separate venue and grow this side too. In terms of the amount of brands, this is a good level to start at, and the Boiler House is certainly the right kind of venue for it. — TB: Is there any crossover with certain brands? CB: I think Vans is going to show at both, and Dickies will do both because there is a relevance to each market. Again, we’ll probably do both with Altamont, because we’ve got the skate side of things pretty much covered and the brand is looking at widening its account base into more street and fashion stores. — TB: Are you seeing a noticeable shift back to interest in streetwear labels? CB: It’s due a comeback and is visible in terms of menswear stores that are dipping their toes into streetwear again. A year ago they were selling brogues and mountain boots, and now they’re selling Air Max.

BF: Also, streetwear shops are not what they were like years ago; they’re more stripped down with a simple layout, rather than being shops with big piles of T-shirts. It’s more about having a boutique feel. And the whole idea of doing this show is to feed this new way of selling streetwear, and to make it look more premium. There will also be skateboard decks from distribution company Shiner, which has been going for nearly 40 years, and is like the backbone of the UK skate industry. It’s about having authenticity. — TB: Are you also potentially considering bringing in surfwear brands perhaps? CB: If they are relevant, yes. Of course that’s re-emerging as well, with stores and brands such as Saturdays in New York, which has also just opened in Tokyo. It’s on that heritage surfwear tip. In terms of the show, it would need to be the right fit; it’s not about “if you’ve got the money, you’re in.” The reason Jacket Required works so well is because there is a certain control over the brands that come in. And hopefully that leads to the show having longevity. I’ve seen it going wrong way back with 40 Degrees – a show that started off on the right foot, but with the first whiff of the dollar it got blown up into an altogether different beast, and subsequently died. It got too big for its boots too quickly, the cool brands pulled out, the big labels with the big bucks and the big stands moved in, and that was pretty much that. BF: Jacket Required works because everyone has the same deal in terms of space, rails and a table. It’s all about the product. When you gloss it up too much, it’s the content that can get forgotten. — TB: What sort of feedback have you been getting from retailers with regard to launching the new show? CB: It’s been very positive. When the press release first went out, I was getting texts of approval from retailers on the same day. I think everyone in our sector

has been crying out for it, and now there is this new crossover happening again with menswear stores looking for something fresh. BF: Most buyers in our sector always go to Bread & Butter, and some go to Magic in Las Vegas, but we haven’t had something here that’s relevant for quite some time. And, with the success of Jacket Required, it makes sense to build on that and make S London very much “a Jacket Required production”. Once you have registered to go to Jacket Required you automatically have entrance to S London – you don’t need to register twice. It’s an extension of it, and I think it will mean there will be an extra attraction for overseas buyers to come to London. It’s also good to keep it separate, and at a different location, so people understand it in its own right. A big problem with 40 Degrees is that its identity became confused, and it seemed like a mix of different shows in one place. In the end you couldn’t work out which show you were actually in! — TB: Will there be a shuttle service going between Jacket Required and S London to help drive footfall? CB: Yes, we call it the tube! On the passes for the events it will show you how close the two are and how easy it is on the Central Line. If there was a shuttle service it could take you half a day just to get down Old Street! We’re confident people will come to both shows, and that’s why it makes sense to have S London on the same days. It doesn’t clash with anything else in any other country and it fits with buying schedules. It means there is even more for buyers to see in London on one day. — TB: Which UK retailers will you be expecting to see? BF: Shops such as Urban Industry, Natterjacks, Urban Outfitters, Chimp, Size? and Asos. Everyone seems to be keen to get behind it. The timing is right for a good UK trade show of this kind, and it seems we’re making all the right noises.

“A lot of skateboard and streetwear shops in this country have a more boutique feel to them, so we wanted to put on a show that reﬂects that shift because there seems to be a gap in the market”

Gary Cahill wears the Grey Sharkskin Suit by Paul Costelloe

Visit us in the Bellini Bar at London Collections: Men To make an appointment please email info@paulcostelloman.co.uk Photographer: Ian Brodie

JUNE 2013 | GENT | CONTENTS | 19

G E N T

GENERATION OF GENTS Sensing a return to a slimmer silhouette in tailoring, menswear label Cinque turns its focus on sartorial elegance for autumn/winter 2013. Suits regain recognition, with the spotlight shining on the three-piece once again. Statement shoulders and tight waistlines can be seen throughout, while textures and fabrics include opulent jacquards, broad chalk and pinstripes and rich check patterns. It seems the ﬁner details are really what pull the collection together; gold buttons and embroidery on the undercollar of the collection’s cashmere blazer create a stand-out garment, while neckties and pocket squares are prevalent throughout. A key look in the range has to be the denim shirt, bow tie and velvet blazer, teamed with tapered wool chinos and brogues in a dark oxblood. Here’s to a new generation of gents. —

Product news The brand news, development and updates for the new season

Change in season Key summer products to get in-store now

Eton’s ﬁnest The shirt specialist makes its mark on Mayfair

JUNE 2013 | GENT | PRODUCT | 20

pRoDUcT NewS Inside menswear.

SO LE O F BR I TAI N Lifestyle label Joules presents a Made in Britain capsule footwear collection for autumn/winter 2013. Comprising eight key styles including the Brigstock brogue and Brigstock boot (pictured). Designed in conjunction with a Northampton Goodyear footwear manufacturer, the ﬁnish of the styles are second to none – expect coloured and printed linings, burnished leathers, hand-punched detailing and handcrafted metal work. “We wanted to produce a collection of shoes that we were able to label as Made in England,” says Tom Joule. This is a trend that is evolving across many brands out there at the moment, but feels very true to our roots. “The great thing about us is that Northampton is a key location for British-made shoes, so it also plays to a Made Local story as well. The designs we worked on are classic British brogue styles and we have added a fun Joules twist in the lining to give them that added detailing that a premium piece of footwear needs.” —

A R E T U R N TO T HE T HI RT I E S Inspired by the ﬁlm Easy Virtue – a story set in the world of the upper middle class in the 30s – Italian brand Pal Zileri retains its signature classic design ethos for the new season. The autumn/winter 2013 range sees silhouettes updated with wider and higher lapels and deconstructed shirt-style shoulders. In line with the 30s English theme, cashmere jackets make their way to the front of the collection, complete with coloured trim highlights. — BRAND To wATcH

ALAN TAYLOR I N T HE BAG French accessories specialist Bleu de Chauffe presents one of its strongest collections to date for spring/summer 2014. A range of bag styles are featured, such as leather and canvas shoulder bags with a washed-out finish and vintage-inspired detailing. Key styles include the working bag, available in two sizes – the Janis and the Joplin – and feature waxed organic leather. The Joris Postman bag, meanwhile, has been redesigned to fit a 15in laptop, available in a colour palette of fox, espresso and natural. —

Young British designer Alan Taylor is a craftsman aware of both directional and commercial trends, with a talent honed while working with the likes of David David, Agi & Sam and Alexander McQueen. Before launching his own label, Taylor spent three seasons working with womenswear designer of the moment Simone Rocha. With a distinct blueprint, which is structured and combines a variation of fabrics, the autumn/winter 2013 range sees Taylor explore the idea of 4D design. Present in the collection through the meshing together of individual garments, with other jackets seemingly growing out of the back of other jackets and trousers layered with ﬂattened shorts and jacket vents. Aiming to push the interpretation of modern menswear, the collection also comprises a collaboration with Magee Tweeds. The tweeds provide the base of the line, by adding a contemporary texture while still representing Magee’s classic techniques. Ranging from charcoal grey to textured crimson and navy blue, the tweeds are juxtaposed with nets and cotton shirting. A name to watch within both menswear and womenswear, Taylor’s androgynous silhouettes have been popular with the likes of W, Vogue and iD magazines. Currently available through the Alan Taylor website, this label is deﬁnitely one to consider if you want get the customers not only buying, but talking about it time and time again. www.alantaylordesign.co.uk —

JUNE 2013 | GENT | PRODUCT | 21

ON TREND

RADAR

Seasonal extras: Boat shoes

Spotlighting style.

4 1: CHATHAM MARINE £37.10 0845 270 0217 2: SWIMS £46 020 7485 2325 3: TIMBERLAND £40.75 07709 408630 4: HENRI LLOYD £42.12 0161 799 1212 5: SEBAGO £59.99 020 7860 0100

PAUL COSTELLOE ESTABLISHED: 1979 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Classic tailoring updated each season with innovative ﬁnishes, interesting detailing and quirky prints. — HISTORY: Eponymous label Paul Costelloe was founded in 1979 and is now one of the most established names in British menswear.

ESTABLISHED: 2011 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Directional and innovative, Alan Taylor switches traditional tailoring on its head with clever silhouettes and novel fabrications. — HISTORY: Born in Dublin in 1987, the designer graduated with a BA in fashion from the National College of Art and Design. Currently living in London, Taylor established his eponymous label two years ago. —

Spanning menswear, womenswear and accessories, the brand is making its debut at London Collections: Men this month, joining the likes of Tom Ford, Burberry and Jimmy Choo. Showcasing its s/s 14 Paul Costelloe Man collection, the label will be available for buyers to view on 16-18 June in the Hospital Club’s Bellini Bar. “London Collections: Men is drawing on traditional British brands such as Burberry to showcase in London, and I am thrilled to be involved in an event that appears to be going from strength to strength in celebrating the British menswear industry,” says Paul Costelloe. “We want to continue our involvement with the vibrant British menswear scene and introduce new buyers to the collections.” Colour, it seems, is king for the new season, with key pieces infused with unexpected vibrant tones and shades. Silhouettes, meanwhile, remain relaxed with deconstructed coloured cotton and linen blazers, alongside more premium options such as the summer mohair tailored suit. For a/w 13, England and Chelsea footballer Gary Cahill (pictured) returns as the face of the brand. www.paulcostelloe.com —

BASE, £28.03, 020 8532 0000

COTTONFIELD, £17.29, 07810 872320

BEN SHERMAN, £28.80, 020 7812 5300

ANTONY MORATO, £12.50, 020 7739 8560

MERC, £11, 020 7495 8538

CAMEL ACTIVE, £22, 0161 234 0999

CHATHAM MARINE, £20.40, 0845 270 0217

CHANGE IN SEASON With holiday season upon us, loose silhouettes, lightweight fabrics and comfort are at the top of the list this month – expect muted colours and vintage ﬁnishes. —

STONES, £24.60, 020 7291 0520

BAILEY OF HOLLYWOOD, £13, 01946 818275

BOOMERANG, PRICE ON REQUEST, 020 7603 4500

unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale

JUNE 2013 | GENT | PRODUCT | 22

JUNE 2013 | GENT | PROFILE | 24

ETON’S FINEST Swedish shirt specialist Eton has opened a 650 sq ft ﬂagship shop on South molton Street in the heart of London’s mayfair to further establish its booming UK business. Tom Bottomley talks to head of design Sebastian Dollinger. —

The Eton shirt business was founded in 1928 in Ganghester, but it wasn’t until the 50s that this small town, family run business started to reach new heights. Already successful in its native Sweden, the brand started with the UK providing one of the largest and most loyal customer bases since the label first looked to overseas sales. It therefore makes perfect sense for Eton to have a London flagship, the only thing that’s baffling is why it’s taken so long. Head of design Sebastian Dollinger says, “We don’t really want to be retailers, though we do have 50 brand stores and shop-in-

shops – mainly in Europe and North America. We want to concentrate on product, as it is what we are best at. South Molton Street gives us a springboard for inspiration to the wholesale customer and end consumer alike.” The brand has over 150 wholesale accounts across the UK and Ireland, including the names you would expect such as Harrods, Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, Flannels, Thackerays, Jules B, Pockets and Louis Copeland. “It’s a very healthy business,” says Dollinger. “We’re probably a market leader in our category, but there is always room for more market

share with our existing clients.” The new shop is located in an elegant Georgian townhouse with chandeliers and tinted glass mixed with Scandinavian oak features, and houses Eton’s full collection of Red Ribbon, Green Ribbon and Black Ribbon shirts. There is also a complete line of men’s accessories such as ties, bow ties, pocket squares, bracelets and cufflinks. Above the shop is a showroom and office space. “The building is fantastic,” says Dollinger. “It’s almost a perfect fit and it gives us an opportunity to showcase our full collection, but also our Eton retail

JUNE 2013 | GENT | PROFILE | 25

interior concept. The overwhelming factor is the location – right in the heart of London’s Mayfair. The street is very central, and nicely placed between Oxford Street and Bond Street. We liked the boutique feel, which seems genuine as opposed to the excesses of Bond Street – and also the rents for that matter!” There was a soft shop launch at the beginning of April, but the main opening happened at the beginning of May – to kick start summer sales and let people who live and work in the area know that they are now there. “We’re already seeing a new urban gentleman buying into the Green Ribbon range in particular,” says Dollinger. The shop is also a ﬁtting tribute to the humble beginnings of the brand. The company HQ is in Ganghester, Sweden, and it was originally a sawmill and the village’s marketplace. During the depression of the 20s, the original sawmill business went under, so business partners – and husband and wife – David and Annie Pettersson had to do something else. Since Annie was a brilliant seamstress she started to make shirts, and so it began. Now a world-renowned name for high-quality shirts, Eton is these days run by their grandson, Hans Davidson, who is the CEO. Davidson says,

“Our company has a rich and interwoven history with the UK. In fact, what makes Eton great comes as a result of Britain’s fine sensibilities and taste for excellence.” The name Eton was established for the export market in the 50s. “The original name used was ‘Skjortfabriken special’,” says Dollinger. “But the export markets had a hard time pronouncing it, so it was quite essential to change it!” In terms of design, Dollinger aims to stay one step ahead of the game. “There are quite a few good shirt makers still out there, thank god,” he says. “What we do differently from them is work with lots of different colour themes. The most important thing in my job is to try to be the most innovative shirt maker out there; always trying to create new classics or tweak them to make them more interesting.” Dollinger also points to a comprehensive assortment of qualities, fits, patterns and collar choices. “There are always at least 100 new shirt patterns available every month,” he says. For s/s 14, which will be shown at both Pitti Uomo and Liberty Fair in New York, Dollinger says he is putting emphasis on prints and florals. “And one of the key new things for s/s 14 will be our new pointed pin collar, as well as a new and sophisticated tab collar.” All the fabrics come from Northern Italy, and the CMT (cut make and trim) is undertaken at the brand’s own factories in Sweden, Estonia and Romania. Eton’s tie collection is made and woven in England and Italy, and the cufflinks are also made in the UK, and scarves are made in Scotland. So as well as an established link with strong wholesale sales, there is also a relationship with certain specialist manufacturing here. “There are so few shirt specialists left out

there,” says Dollinger. “But we believe it is to our advantage to focus on a few products and try to perfect them rather than trying to make suits, shoes and everything else as well. We leave those products up to the other brands.” It’s a formula that certainly seems to be working, with the current value of the Eton shirts and accessories business around £36m. Dollinger puts it largely down to a lot of repeat business. “We have a very loyal customer base. Once customers have tried our shirts, it’s almost impossible to contemplate anything else, and that’s been the basis for our success story over the years,” he says. Though more UK retail openings are certainly not a priority, Dollinger also does not rule them out altogether. A logical strategy might be to open in some of the UK’s airports, especially given the amount of travelling businessmen passing through, and holiday makers, too, of course. “We have shops in airports in Scandinavia,” says Dollinger. “So, yes, it could be the next step for the UK market, who knows? It would be great to have a store in Heathrow Terminal 5.” Right now, though, especially with the eyecatching new Mayfair ﬂagship, the brand seems to be ﬂying high enough.

JUNE 2013 | PROMOTION | 26

CLOSER TO THE FINISH LINE Not only a fantastic way to raise money and awareness, Care Challenge provides the perfect networking opportunity with some of fashion’s ﬁnest, with teams from the likes of Gucci, michael Kors and Hugo Boss all signing up for the event this September. —

TEAm SUPPORT

Last year’s Prima Solutions Adventure Challenge saw Timberland’s team snatch victory from Superdry at the 11th hour, beating them by just 26 seconds in the annual 26-mile biking running/hiking and canoeing challenge. This year, for the eighth time, teams are signing up once again to take one another on. The challenge will take place in the scenic surroundings of the Forest of Dean on 28 September. The event will raise funds for leading overseas development agency Care International. Timberland’s Marc Svensson says of last year’s event, “It was a great weekend, we all thoroughly enjoyed it – the weather, location, sea kayaking and, of course, the fact that we won once again” This time, Superdry plans to have another shot at the title, along with teams from Gucci, Michael Kors, Prima Solutions, Joules Clothing, Hugo Boss, CVUK and more. Participating for the first time are an intrepid bunch from Michael Kors. Team leader Christopher Stone, who works as retail operations manager for the company, says, “This might be our first time taking part in the challenge, but we intend to give the other teams a run for their money. With Michael Kors the fastest-growing brand in Europe, it would be great if we can also be the fastest to the finish line.” Neil Munro, head of Care Challenge, says, “The Prima Solutions Adventure Challenge is a fantastic networking and team-building opportunity.

There is always a fantastic atmosphere at the event, with a healthy sense of competition between teams, which adds to the fun – and the emphasis is certainly on fun. Most of all, the event is for a fantastic cause. In the last seven years the event has raised over £400,000 for Care.”

Care works in 87 countries, helping some of the world’s poorest people to find a route out of poverty. The charity’s work includes helping poor garment workers, shoemakers and tailors to start or expand their small businesses, allowing them to feed their families and send their children to school. For example, Care runs training programmes in Afghanistan for vulnerable women – especially widows – to help them support themselves. Using materials supplied by the charity, they produce quilts from their homes. Care then buys the quilts so they can be distributed in emergency situations, keeping people who have lost their homes warm. Last year, the charity helped to train 500 women in quilt-making so that they can earn a living. This is just one example of the kinds of projects that could benefit from teams’ fundraising, so every drop of sweat will be worthwhile. Limited places are still available to join the Prima Solutions Adventure Challenge. Encouraging other teams to sign up, Christopher Stone, says, “We already have four teams confirmed, so as well as competing against other brands there is sure to be some ‘friendly’ internal competition. But our aim is to prove ourselves by showing that we’re best in class in every field. There is still plenty of time for people to sign up and get involved, so let’s see if there is anyone else out there willing to take up the challenge!” For further information visit www.carechallenge.org.uk/primasolutions or call the Care Challenge team on 020 7091 6111.

www.brax.com North England, North Wales, Scotland Andrew Bunch Agencies, Andrew Bunch 10 Willow Fields, Lepton, Huddersfield West Yorkshire HD8 0BY +44 1484 606212 andrewbunch@btinternet.com South England, South Wales Mike Smith Agencies, Mike Smith 86 Forest Glade, Highams Park London E4 9RJ +44 783 117 8009 mike@zenobia.demon.co.uk Northern Ireland, Ireland Mc Cotter Agencies, Neal Mc Cotter Suite 3, 9-15 Queen Street Belfast BT1 6EA +44 2890 327 770 neal@mccotterandson.co.uk

JUNE 2013 | PREVIEW | 28

PITTI UOmO The 84th edition of Pitti Uomo will have a motorcycle theme to it with plenty of vintage bikes, clothing and imagery displayed around the Fortezza. It’s entitled Vroom Pitti Vroom, and here is a selection of exhibitors of note to get you revved up. —

 G- STAR

 KO LO R Junichi Abe is the guest designer for Pitti Uomo 84 with his Kolor brand – originally established in Tokyo in 2004 – and for this there will be a special event. Abe’s background includes being part of the launch of Junya Watanabe’s Comme des Garçons line, so that might just prick up a few ears on these shores to buyers who are maybe not aware of his past work. The Kolor collections are now winning acclaim in their own right. Lapo Cianchi, Pitti Immagine director of communications, says, “His men’s collections are now more structured and look at the men’s wardrobe with intelligence, precision and a touch of humour.” The s/s 14 collection should put a smile on your face then. —

Would you believe it but G-Star is celebrating its 25th anniversary this year, and as part of it is reintroducing four of its innovative denims from the founding years, but with a more modern interpretation. So for those in the know, or with a good memory, there is the Elwood, Lumber, US 1st and Faeroes. All denim is made from the Streaky Red Listing, a re-issue of the very first G-Star premium denim fabric in different washes, varying from RAW to 10 years worn-in look – even up to 25 years worn-in look. We’d have thought they’d be falling apart by now, so obviously the denim can stand the test of time. In addition, the anniversary range also includes an exclusive 25oz raw denim, apparently a technical novelty as it’s so difficult to produce a denim over 19oz. —

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 ANGELO GAL ASSO Italian designer Galasso opened a shop in Knightsbridge in 2009 and though he counts Rod Stewart, David Beckham, Jay-Z and Simon Le Bon as some of his high-profile clients, he currently has no UK wholesale accounts. This is also his first Pitti outing with the new Spring Summer Forever Collection. It’s split into three distinctive categories: Milan is the capsule wardrobe that offers formalwear and tailoring in the finest Italian wools and luxury linen and cotton mixes. Evening represents what the Angelo Galasso gent will wear during summer soirees, including a tailored tuxedo jacket with signature wide peak lapels paired with slim-fitted trousers. And International is the casualwear part of the line, which includes some nautical references, with stripes, navy blue and crisp white combined with scarlet details. —

 SI LE NT BY DAM I R DO M A Silent is the casual collection created by acclaimed Parisian avant-garde label Damir Doma. First presented in October 2009 during Paris Fashion Week, Silent offers a beautifully finished range of jerseys, knits, leather pieces and woven jackets, as well as shoes, bags and accessories. It’s another first showing at Pitti Uomo and it’s pretty classy with no excessive design elements, retaining much of the fabric’s raw and organic form as possible. Loose fits also make it easy to wear when the heat is on. —

 ADIDAS BY TO M DI XO N Tom Dixon, best known for furniture and lighting design, and once head of design at Habitat, is diving into unchartered waters with an unprecedented collaboration with Adidas. It’s an innovative offering of multi-purpose TOM DIXON sportswear and travel accessories, featuring two types of travel bag that experiment with how luggage unclasps, unzips and unfolds to reveal multiple layers. All rather clever stuff from someone coming at it from a different design perspective and, let’s face it, Adidas wouldn’t just ask any old Tom, Dick or Harry to take on a design collaboration with them now would they? Technical and performance materials are being matched with genuine ingenuity, and this has got to be worth a viewing. —

 HE NRY C OT TO N’ S RU GGE D Spring/summer 2014 will be only the second season for the capsule Rugged line from Henry Cotton’s and, while there are just six key pieces in this motorbike-inspired latest edition, they should be well worth a look at because of the attention to detail. The Rugged line was originally created in the 80s, so this is actually Henry Cotton’s revisiting its design past but updating garments through more tailored silhouettes, lighter and more technical fabrications and striking colourways. Each jacket has a name, such as Speed, the model with the cleanest lines; Dive-Roll, which is more like a parka in bright green resin-coated nylon; and Cat-walk, a shorter jacket in a resin-treated nylon with military and suede-eﬀect detailing. —

Find us at

Summer 2013 in the Urban Superior Hall

CATEGORY A A Premium Collection By Weekend Offender

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BREAD & BUTTER Once again, buyers and brands are preparing to ﬂock to Berlin for the spring/summer 2014 showcase, with a carefully selected mix of denim, urban and streetwear labels hitting one of Europe’s biggest exhibitions, Bread & Butter. —

 W E E K E ND O F F E NDE R A returning name to the Bread & Butter, menswear label Weekend Offender remains loyal to its core influence – British sub-cultures. Steering clear of trends, music, film, football and youth cultures past and present provide the inspiration for each collection. Jackets play a major role in the spring/summer 2014 line, with styles central to the range including bombers with rib trim and heavily printed dove lining detail. Harrington jackets also dominate, while knitwear is 100 per cent cotton. New to the collection is a lightweight loop-back fleece with a sunbleached finish. In terms of colour, spring/summer 2014 plays with citrus tones and summer shades including lime, lemonade, watermelon, rose and coral, alongside blues, navy and black. —

 AR M I ST I C E One of many French labels to enter the halls of the Tempelhof this season is footwear label Armistice. Founded last year and already stocked in the likes of Urban Outﬁtters and Schuh, the brand has cleverly reworked a range of classic footwear staples, such as the boat show and the espadrille. The Stone One collection was the ﬁrst design developed by Armistice and has remained its most popular. The rubber-soled canvas shoe features two statement eyelet holes, complemented by wide-rope laces. Expect ethnic and animal prints, as well as metallic canvas options in pewter, gold and silver. —

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 NAT I VE YO U T H Manchester-born Native Youth is already building quite the following, after its successful launch last year. Stocked in Asos and independents including Middlesbrough retailer Psyche and Ashton-under-Lyne’s Room 14, the short-order brand is looking to drive its stockist base further with its on-trend autumn/winter 2013 collection. Buyers can expect warm winter ﬂoral print tees, brushed Aztec prints and winter Arctic parkas. Marrying heritage detailing with Japanese workwear styling, the collection provides the perfect blend of form and function. Detailing is understated and subtle, while the introduction of a seven-piece capsule sports range will keep the Native Youth shopper stylish, even while working out. —

 HU M O R Known for pushing boundaries with its contemporary style, Humor once again presents a bold, dynamic collection for spring/summer 2014. The new season sees a range of playful contrasting colours, eye-catching graphics and modern cuts, with the brand’s ﬂoral printed twin set; shorts and coordinated shirt standing out as one of the central looks. Aiming to grow on its mass customer appeal, the Nordic label matures this season without steering too far away from its distinct playful and dynamic identity. —

 J APAN BLU E

 C HU NK With a signature style of bold graphics, tongue-in-cheek humour and quirky design ﬁnishes, streetwear label Chunk will return to Bread & Butter with one of its strongest collections to date. The brand’s association with emerging street sport bike polo has seen Chunk develop and create a team kit for the Black Rebel Polo Club, as well as sponsoring the 2009 European Hard-court Bike Polo Championships in London. —

Returning for another season at Bread & Butter, Japan Blue was a name that cropped up again and again with buyers at the February edition of the show. Retailers in the UK looking for an alternative denim name to add to their mix would be wise to take a look at the spring/summer 2014 oﬀering from the Japanese label. Material is, of course, key for the brand. The focus is on selecting and spinning the cotton, dying the yarn and ﬁnally weaving the fabric to create simple, clean denim silhouettes. Denim jean styles include tapered, skinny, tight straight and 80s-inspired ankle-cut, slim-tapered options. —

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 SCHOT T Following its recent 100th birthday celebrations, Schott follows up with one of its strongest collections to date. Playing a key role in music, style and youth culture over the past century, the brand continues its legacy of mastering leather and outerwear. Having dressed icons including Blondie and James Dean, through to Rihanna and Jay Z, the latest collection sees the reintroduction of archived styles including bikers, varsities and classic “club” jackets. Still designed, hand-produced and manufactured in the original family run factory in New York, Schott continues to be one of the key outerwear names to catch at Bread & Butter. —  GABICC I It’s British label Gabbicci’s first time exhibiting at Bread & Butter, and what a year to do it in. Celebrating its 40th anniversary this year, Gabicci looks to the effortless styling and quality of Italian dressing for the new season. Very much influenced by the Mod style – synonymous with the brand – spring/summer 2014 takes influence from original heritage pieces developed in the 70s and 80s. Colours include classic navy, white, red and stone, with stronger highlights coming through in the form of canary yellow, cobalt blue, fig pink and bright green. Fabrics include crisp cottons and woven knits, trimmed with the label’s trademark suede. Silhouettes, meanwhile, remain fitted, demonstrated in slim-fit suits and shirts, button-through collared cardigans and simple polo shirts. —

 AR M O R LU X Once renowned for its underwear, French label Armor Lux is now a full wardrobe collection catering for both the men’s and womenswear market. Making its debut at next month’s Bread & Butter, the brand will present its signature sailor stripes, alongside updated Breton styles inspired by early 20th century Transatlantique chairs (that’s a French wooden slotted chair to you and I). Workwear silhouettes and detailing are key to the new collection, as is Armor Lux’s honeycomb textured 100 per cent cotton sweatshirt, a light gauge option that retains the old-fashioned values of the brand while reﬂecting its modernity. —

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JACKET REqUIRED It’s bigger, badder and back in the heart of London’s Bloomsbury at the end of July, so grab your jackets because they will very much be required. Tom Bottomley serves up some brands and products you will want to check out at the latest edition of, you got it, Jacket Required. —

 C O LLE C T I VE NO U N Back with a bang, Collective Noun is one of those menswear brands that takes pride in being part of the great British revival, producing classic pieces in the UK with a focus on fabrics from traditional British mills. It’s a full line of jackets, shirts, tees, trousers, shorts, sweaters and accessories that hit the spot, because it’s all ultimately very wearable but not scarily priced. The M16 shooting jacket in the current collection retails at £180, which is about right – not cheap, but not over the top. And the woven belts with leather trim, made in England, give certain Italian brands who specialise in such ﬁnery a run for their Euros. www.cn-london.com —

 M WC These aren’t just any timepieces, these are Swiss military spec high-performance watches that just happen to also look ultra cool, as well as being handy when you’re put through your paces at your local assault course. Hell, even the special forces wear these numbers. There are chronographs, divers’ watches, hand-wound and automatic models, and a water-resistant style with luminous dial – just in case you should slip in when doing a spot of night ﬁshing. www.mwcwatches.com — >>>

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 PAR K A LO NDO N Another worthy addition to the ever-expanding show, Parka London is a design collective that puts the parka on a pedestal. Timeless designs for the style savvy and modernist of today. It’s all in the detail, and there are detachable fur hoods, luxe linings, secret drawstrings and distinctive silhouettes that make these, well, not like every other parka. If you’re going to do one thing, do it well – and that’s what it’s done. Simple idea, well executed. As Charles Eames once said, “The details are not the details. They make the design.” And that’s the mantra that resonates with the Parka London team. www.parkalondon.com —

 LI GHT NI NG BO LT Born in Hawaii in the summer of 1971, Lightning Bolt is a blast from the past reintroduced in the US – and now internationally with a debut at Jacket Required – with surf veteran Jonathan Paskowitz leading the eﬀort. The s/s 14 line puts the “rad” back into surfwear, but in a good way, and the bolt logo looks brilliant on a tee. Also, some great Hawaiian shirts, from an age when you could say, “Book ’em Danno” and your kids would understand what you were talking about (Hawaii Five-O for those who still don’t). www.lightningbolt-usa.com —

 K I DDA C HR I STO PHE R SHANNO N

 DE U S E X M AC HI NA This Australian brand custom builds amazing looking motorcycles, but unfortunately you may not have the spare ﬂoor space to carry them, so we’ll concentrate on the nice line of clothing it also happens to make. Tees, sweats, hoodies and tops in general seem to be the main order of the day, and the Eugene jacket looks like something Wrangler might have made well once upon a time. The uncomplicated jeans aren’t bad either, and the branding is well delivered – graphic and old skool, without being too, well, “retro”. www.deuscustoms.com —

The menswear maverick of Men’s Day at London Fashion Week – and now London Collections: Men – is bringing his younger sibling of luxe streetwear label Christopher Shannon to the show. With rapper Nas and hip-hop duo Rizzle Kicks big fans, and with the current trend for all things “street” once again, it would be wise to take a gander. It’s stocked in retailers as diverse as Liberty and Asos, so the appeal is obviously wider than you might imagine. But if past seasons are anything to go by – and this is only its ﬁfth season – it’s not for the faint-hearted, and usually pretty bold indeed. www.christophershannon.co.uk —

5PREVIEW

RED COLLAR PROJECT

NEUW

ALLY CAPELLINO

WOODWOOD

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GALLERY, COPENHAGEN With retailers now scrutinising their buying schedule as closely as the buying itself, exhibitions can no longer stand still and expect footfall. One show continuing to develop and grow season after season is Gallery, one of Scandinavia’s key events. mWB highlights seven brands to catch at the next edition, taking place on 8-10 August 2013. —

SAmSøE & SAmSøE

ALLY C APE LLI NO British accessories label Ally Capellino will return to Gallery this season with its core collection of leather handbags, satchels, wallets and backpacks among many other styles. Founded in 1980 as a womenswear label, the brand launched its menswear oﬀer six years later and is now stocked in the likes of Ideology Boutique, Triads, Liberty and Mr Porter. This season brings new leather ﬁnishes, a bolder colour palette and functional but stylish detailing.

BIBI CHEmNITz

BI BI C HE M NI T Z Designer Bibi Chemnitz will not only showcase her collection in a static presentation but also a runway show during the four-day event. On 9 August, Chemnitz will present both her womenswear and menswear offer and is currently searching for 16 models to walk the show, with the winners offered both free flights and accommodation during the event. Founded in 2006 with an inaugural collection of unisex hoodies, Bibi Chemnitz is fast becoming an internationally sought-after label. WO O DWO O D Scandinavian label WoodWood has one of the biggest presences at Gallery, and is set to present both its men’s and women’s spring/summer 2014 offer at August’s edition of the show. Print is key to the brand’s latest collection, retaining its signature formula of simple cuts and silhouettes set against textural mixes and strong, eye-catching surface patterns. This is definitely one of the first labels to check at the exhibition. 5PR EVI EW Established in Stockholm, Sweden, 5Preview continues its journey from T-shirt specialist to complete wardrobe label. A favourite with fashion bloggers the world over, the brand offers quirky

wardrobe staples such as logo sweatshirts and vintage-wash denim. In terms of accessories, tote and military bags, and scarves including prints such as hand-drawn maps are key. R E D C O LL AR PRO J E C T Offering a collection of classic wardrobe staples including windcheater, bomber and parka jacket styles as well as a selection of denims, Red Collar Project is fast becoming a go-to label for easy-to-wear separates. The concept behind the name, for those who don’t know, comes from the way of identifying a person by their work – blue or white collar workers. Red Collar is a new way, focusing on the personality and lifestyle rather than the occupation. NE U W Entering its fifth year since launching, and second season at Gallery, Neuw is looking to continue its success as a denim specialist for spring/summer 2014. Although not traditionally the season of denim, this season the brand opens its offer to include a wider wardrobe collection including intricate printed shirts, lightweight knitwear and leather outerwear, while retaining its simple, clean design ethos. SAM SØ E & SAM SØE Launched initially as a menswear brand in 1993, Danish label Samsøe & Samsøe is aimed at the 30-plus market with key fashion prints and clean silhouettes at the forefront of its offer. Raw-finished details mixed with modern customised designs feature heavily, while its collection not only spans apparel but footwear and accessories also. Well established across Europe, the brand is making its first foray into the UK, looking to grow organically through selected independents. —

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ExHIBITION CALENDAR Your comprehensive guide to the spring/summer 2014 shows. Sponsored by

London Collections: men 16-18 June 2013 The Hospital Club, Covent Garden 020 7759 1999 www.londoncollections.co.uk Entering its third season, London Collections: Men kicks off the spring/summer 2014 buying season by welcoming a plethora of key menswear players to its latest edition. Burberry, Jimmy Choo and Rag & Bone all make their debut at the London showcase, while returning favourites include Tom Ford, Jonathan Saunders and Christopher Shannon. — Pitti Uomo 18-21 June 2013 Fortezza da Basso, Florence 0039 (0)5509491861 www.pittimaggine.com As the first menswear showcase on the international buying calendar, Pitti Uomo enters its 84th edition with over 1,000 names in premium apparel, footwear and accessories. Designer brand Kolor will present its spring/summer 2014 offering, while Saks Fifth Avenue is set to showcase its inaugural menswear collection. — Capsule Paris 28-30 June 2013 Cité de la Mode, 34 quai d’Austerlitz, 75013 Paris 0012 (0)122068310 www.capsuleshow.com Fashion and lifestyle trade show Capsule kicks off the first of its six seasonal exhibitions in the French capital. Marrying the best of contemporary and directional menswear brands, the show caters for both the men’s womenswear markets. Buyers can expect to see brands including Libertine Libertine, Amor Lux and Japan Blue.

— mAN Paris 28-30 June 2013 25 rue Yves Toudic – Paris 10 0033 (0)143672752 www.man-shows.com Presenting labels such as Ally Capellino, Peter Jensen and YMC, MAN is becoming one of the most talked about exhibitions of the Parisian show season. Showcasing both established and ﬂedging names in menswear, buyers can expect the same carefully selected mix of contemporary fashion of previous season. — Tranoi Homme 29 June – 1 July 2013 Palais de la Bourse, 75002 Paris 0033 (0)153018494 www.tranoi.com The spring/summer 2014 edition of Tranoi Homme runs cohesively alongside a number of Parisian trade shows and exhibitions, including Paris Fashion Week. With a host of installations and social events over the course of the three days, visitors can see collections from the likes of Harris Wharf London, Thom Krom and Peter Non. — Capsule Berlin 2-3 July 2013 Straße der Pariser Kommune 8, 10243 Berlin 0012 (0)112068310 www.capsuleshow.com The second edition of Capsule’s spring/summer 2014 showcase takes place in Berlin. Following the successful blueprint of its sister shows, buyers can expect a strong mix of menswear, footwear and accessories. Exhibitors are expected to include Wood Wood, Guild of Labour and Rascals.

BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN

— Bread & Butter Berlin 2-4 July 2013 Airport Berlin – Tempelhof 0049 (0)302000370 www.breadandbutter.com With a number of niche denim, street, urban and sportswear labels making their Bread & Butter debut this season, the show also welcomes the return of Danish fashion house Bestseller, who will showcase J Lindeberg, Selected Homme and Jack & Jones among its womenswear labels. Other exhibitors will include Gabicci, which will be making its debut at the show.

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— Premium 2-4 July 2013 Station-Berlin, Luckenwalder Str 4-6, 10963 Berlin 0049 (0)30208891330 www.premiumexhibitions.com Premium returns this season with over 900 labels across menswear, womenswear, footwear and accessories. Spanning 20,000 sq ft, the exhibition continues to oﬀer the latest in high-end and contemporary fashion, alongside emerging talent throughout each sector. — SEEK 2-4 July 2013 Kühlhaus, Luckenwalder Str 3, 10963 Berlin 0049 (0)3062908511 www.seekberlin.com Presenting a carefully curated selection of brands, including names such as Blood Brother, Majestic Select, Folk and Our Legacy for the autumn/winter

2013 edition, Seek continues to stand on its own two feet as the once sister show to Premium. — Panorama Berlin 2-4 July 2013 Berlin ExpoCenter Airport, Messestr 1, 12529 Schönefeld 0049 (0)30 20 88 91 340 www.panorama-berlin.com Following the success of its inaugural show last season, Panorama Berlin was initially designed to bridge the gap between premium and urban fashion. Catering for the men’s and womenswear

market, as well as footwear and accessories, the show is set to span 20,000 sq m across three halls. — White Label 3-5 July 2013 U3-Bahnhof, Potsdamer Platz Blending, Berlin 0049 (0)30240876114 www.whitelabelfair.com Following its successful debut last summer, sourcing fair White Label is set to run bi-annually, parallel with Berlin Fashion Week moving forward. With over 200 global exhibitors, the second edition will widen its portfolio from Made in China to Made International. — Who’s Next Pret-a-Porter Paris 6-9 July 2013 Parc Des Expositions, Porte De Versailles, Paris 0033 (0)1410137483 www.whosnext.com With the newly revised Mr & Mrs Brown area in the grounds of the Parc Des Expositions, this season’s edition of Who’s Next will see a focus on ready-towear unisex urbanwear. Joining forces with the show’s Private section, Mr & Mrs Brown will cater for both domestic and international distribution. — modefabriek 14-15 July 2013 Amsterdam RAI, Europaplein 8, 1078 GZ Amsterdam 0031 (0)204421960 www.modefabriek.nl Two-day Dutch event Modefabriek sees over 600 international, established and new design talent ﬁll the 40,000 sq m venue. A new addition to last season’s edition, Chapter is dedicated to cuttingedge contemporary men’s fashion. Blueprint, meanwhile, is the show’s denim and streetwear destination, which will also include shops, installations, places to eat and live music. — Novomania 17-19 July 2013 Shanghai Mart (Level 1-4), No 99 Xin Yi Road, Shanghai, 200336 0086 21 61573942 www.novomania.com.cn International trade show Novomania is the largest exhibition in China, bringing together the best in urban, denim, street and sportswear. Designed to create an opening into the growing Chinese market, many international labels will be making their debut, with the show split into six distinct areas – Denim, Fashion & Chic, Shoes & Accessories, Sport & Street, Contemporary and Real Estate. Brands signed up to exhibit will include British denim label Voi Jeans, Levi’s and GAS. —

Project New York 21-23 July 2013 Pier 94, 55th Street, 12th Avenue, New York 0012 187407092 www.project.magiconline.com Curated under creative director Tommy Fazio, Project New York moves to Pier 94 for spring/summer 2014 with a raft of new signings and welcomed returns. As one of the key shows in the menswear buying calendar, buyers can expect contemporary apparel, footwear and accessories with labels such as Hartford, Matt & Nat and Levi’s Made & Crafted. — Capsule New York 22-23 July 2013 Basketball City, 299 South St (at Montgomery St), NYC 0012 (0)112068310 www.capsuleshow.com Exclusively for the menswear market, Capsule New York is set to bring together brands including

PITTI UOMO

Grenson, Jack Spade, Avelon and Soulland among others for its spring/summer 2014 edition. — mAN New York 22-24 July 775 Washington St, New York, NY 10014 0033 143665703 www.man-shows.com Showcasing both new and established menswear, MAN is in its fourth season and has gained a cult following since launching in 2012. Visitors can expect to see brands such as Oliver Clark, Uniform Wares, La Paz and Lacoste Live.

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— Stitch London 23-24 July 2013 The Sorting Office, London 01642 658288 www.stitch-london.com Stitch introduces a newly launched women’s section this season, operating alongside its core menswear and streetwear offer from the new location of London’s Sorting Office. — AImEx menswear Show 30 July – 1 August 2013 Cranmore Park Exhibition Centre, Solihull 0121 683 1434 www.aimexmenswear.co.uk Bringing together some of the most established names in mainstream menswear, Aimex returns for the spring/summer 2014 buying season with around 100 carefully selected apparel, footwear, loungewear and accessories brands. Buyers can expect to find new signings including Ben Brown Shirts, Ellis Rugby, New Man and Punto Blanco.

— S London 31 July – 1 August The Boiler House, Brick Lane, London info@s-london.com www.s-london.com Launched by the creator of premium menswear exhibition Jacket Required, S London reﬂects a similar concept for the street and skate sector. Key exhibitors at the debut event include Emerica, Ice Cream, X Large, Etnies and New Balance’s launch of the numeric skate shoe. Admission is via invitation only to either Jacket Required or S London. Visitors can apply online. — margin 4-5 August 2013 Westminster Suite, Hilton London Olympia, London www.margin.tv In its 11th year since launching, Margin is back for spring/summer 2014 with a host of labels in a brand new location. Taking place in London’s Hilton

MODA GENT

— Jacket Required 31 July – 1 August, Victoria House, London info@jacket-required.com www.jacket-required.com Jacket Required oﬀers a carefully curated, diverse range of brands from all categories and diﬀerent areas of the market, from well-established to new and innovative brands. The invitation-only policy focuses attention back onto the buyers, ensuring brands and buyers are relevant to each other. New exhibitors include Lightening Bolt and Stow & Son. Visitors can apply online.

Olympia hotel, the exhibition will showcase some of the newest talent in directional menswear. — Gallery Fair 8-10 August 2013 Gallery Fashion Fair, Copenhagen 0033 120930 www.gallery.dk Gallery plays host to some of Scandinavia’s most upand-coming fashion brands. Buyers can expect the signature selection of contemporary and niche menswear and womenswear labels from across the global fashion market. This season’s exhibitors include Baracuta, Woolrich, DEfect and Elka.

— CPH Vision 8-10 August 2013-05-21 Lokomotivværkstedet, Otto Busses Vej 5A, 2300 Copenhagen 0045 39648586 www.cphvision.dk CPH Vision brings together contemporary fashion labels from Scandinavia and all over the world, spanning the accessories and apparel sectors. — CIFF 8-11 August 2013 Bella Center, Copenhagen 0045 32472213 www.ciff.dk Ciff introduces new area Crystal Hall this season, bringing together an exclusive collection of designdriven Scandinavian brands, available to view by invitation only. — Flip 11-13 August 2013 NEC Birmingham 01484 846069 www.fliptradeshow.tumblr.com In its third season, sports, surf and street show Flip welcomes names including Animal, Monkee Genes, Duck & Cover and Pepe Jeans. Spanning menswear, womenswear, footwear and accessories, buyers can expect the freshest trends – showcased on the dedicated catwalk in Hall 20 – running throughout the three-day event. — moda Gent 11-13 August 2013 NEC Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk Moda Gent is the UK’s national trade show for the contemporary and mainstream menswear industry, mixing major international names with new launches. This season sees the return of the Hall 20 catwalk, with dedicated men’s tailoring & lifestyle, urban & contemporary and footwear & accessories catwalk shows. Key exhibitors include Brax, Casa Moda, Gibson London, Maddox Street London, Olymp and Remus Uomo. — moda Footwear 11-13 August 2013 NEC Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk Moda Footwear is the UK’s largest and busiest footwear exhibition. With more than 400 labels exhibiting every season, retailers can expect to find a brand to suit every type of customer. Rockport, Fly London, Brakeburn and Base London are all returning for the spring/summer 2014 edition. —

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Select 11-13 August 2013 NEC Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk The contemporary menswear and footwear show returns for a new season to showcase the hottest looks for spring/summer 2014. Key exhibitors include K-Swiss, Palladium, Superga and Wrangler. The dedicated menswear and footwear catwalk show will also make a welcome return, featuring looks from across urban, contemporary and gent. — ImC 18-19 August 2013 Whittlebury Hall Hotel, Northamptonshire 01473 256061 www.imcmenswear.co.uk Bringing together around 40-50 select brands to showcase spring/summer 2014 collections, the show is run by the IMC Buying Group and will play host to over 90 of its members. —

SELECT

magic 19-21 August 2013 Las Vegas & Mandalay Bay Convention Centres, Nevada, USA 0018 775544834 www.magiconline.com Playing host to an increasing amount of global buyers and brands, across menswear, womenswear, footwear and accessories, Las Vegas trade show Magic menswear will also provide a series of impressive seminars and key speakers. — Project Las Vegas 19-21 August 2013

Mandalay Bay, 3950 Las Vegas Blvd, Nevada, USA 0012 187407092 www.project.magiconline.com Designed to serve as an essential hub for retailers and fashion labels, Project Las Vegas welcomes a selection of heritage, denim, progressive and premium menswear brands. Names expected to return include Bridge & Burn, Elvine, G-Star Raw and Kid Dangerous. — The Hub 28-30 August 2013 Asia World Expo, Hong Kong www.thehub.hk Creating a platform for international brands to enter the growing Asian market, The Hub makes its debut edition this August. Located in the Asia World Expo centre in Hong Kong with three areas Indigo & Heritage, Street and Contemporary brands already signed to exhibit at the show include traditional British labels John Smedley, Private White VC and Nigel Hall. — The Ledge 1-3 September 2013 The National Hall, London Olympia 0116 289 8249 www.theledgeshow.com With a diverse selection of brands, a mini ramp competition and an exceptional Streetwear Village, The Ledge continues to support the action sports and streetwear industry, bringing together 200 action sports and streetwear brands. Key exhibitors include Diamond Supply Co Footwear, Element and Nike. — LondonEdge 1-3 September 2013 The National Hall, London Olympia 0116 289 8249 www.londonedge.com Dedicated to short order, commercial and creative clothing, footwear, accessories and lifestyle collections, LondonEdge presents a diverse range of labels within a lively, themed environment. This season sees a large selection of new overseas brands making their LondonEdge debut, including Dark Candles, Isabelle Batz and Hello Margo. Other key exhibitors meanwhile include Alchemy, Hell Bunny, Iron Fist and T.U.K. — CPm 4-7 September 2013 Expocentre Fairgroup, Moscow 0049 (0)2114396312 International trade platform CPM caters for the Eastern European market with menswear, womenswear, lingerie, childrenswear, leisurewear, body and beachwear, as well as a selection of homeware. Welcoming over 1,600 brands from 31

countries, the show is expected to attract over 19,000 visitors. — momad metropolis 6-8 September 2013 Pavilions 4, 12 and 14 Feria de Madrid, Spain 0034 917223000 www.momad.metropolis.ifema.es Momad Metropolis is a new, multi-sector fashion event presenting a range of apparel, footwear and leather goods labels across the men’s, women’s and children’s sectors. The exhibition incorporates the fairs formerly known as Moda Calzado and Simm, and brands are primarily Spanish and Portuguese, although French, Italian and Latin American suppliers will also exhibit this season. — London Garments Expo 9-11 September 2013 Business Design Centre, Islington, London 020 8888 0090 www.londongarmentsexpo.com Bringing together a wide variety of young designers, manufactures and emerging brands, London Garments Expo will host catwalk shows, seminars, B2B meetings and trend reports. — GDS & Global Shoes 11-13 September 2013 Messe Dusseldorf, Germany 0049 (0)211 45607606 www.gds-online.com GDS provides a comprehensive market overview of the progressive and classic premium segment, while presenting design newcomers and brands across the men’s, women’s and children’s footwear sectors. Key exhibitors this season include Calvin Klein Collection, Desigual, G-Star Raw, Gore-Tex, Manas, MJUS, Ted Baker and United Nude. — Themicam 15-18 September 2013 Fieramilano, Milan 0039 02438291 www.micamonline.com TheMicam is one of Europe’s key footwear exhibitions, bringing together over 1500 brands across the full spectrum of the footwear industry. Key exhibitors include brands showing under the Made in Italy collections. — Best of Britannia 3-5 October 2013 The Farmiloe Building, Clerkenwell, London 07767 783926 www.bestofbritannia.com Showcasing some of the best of British talent, Best of Britannia is open to both trade and consumer. From menswear through to food and drink, the exhibition will celebrate both established and emerging home-grown talent. —

JUNE 2013 | DENIM & STREET | CONTENTS | 45

D E N I M

S T R E E T

THE RIGHT ANGLE Although men’s apparel label Two Angle isn’t a new kid on the block, having been established since 1999, it has undergone a slight rebranding for the UK market this autumn/winter 2013. Launched as a collaboration between a French stylist and New York designer, the label combines the best in European detailing and current US street trends. Derived from the unique partnership of the two countries’ distinctive styles, Two Angle is heavily inspired by the hip-hop and rap music scene. For the new season, the brand moved to the East End of London to shoot its autumn/winter 2013 campaign imagery. The new collection, which is set to be stocked in Asos, Bank Fashion and Yukka.co.uk, comprises camouﬂage prints, textural leopard details, bomber jackets, graphic-print T-shirts and hooded parkas. Accessories will also be introduced this season including beanies, snapbacks, 5-panels and gloves. —

Product news

Sweat it out

The brand news, developments and updates for the new season Retro sweatshirts available to buy in-store now

JUNE 2013 | DENIM & STREET | PRODUCT | 46

RADAR

PRODUCT NEWS

Spotlighting style.

Inside menswear.

T E C HNO PHO BE As part of its autumn/winter 2013 range, Bench will introduce its first street tech capsule collection – a selection of carefully crafted items that balance style with technical construction, acknowledging the brand’s utilitarian heritage. Key products in the collection include a layering system, comprising a waterproof and breathable utility shell jacket, featuring critically taped seams and a DWR (durable water repellent) breathable shell. Articulated sleeves provide ease of movement, while reflective materials on bound cuffs and bungee cords provide additional detailing. The label’s signature graphic tees, meanwhile, are given a makeover with quick-drying poly cotton jersey. The capsule collection will be sold through key Bench accounts and in Bench stores nationwide. —

UCLA ESTABLISHED: 2008 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Preppy college-style sweats, vests and tees with Americana-style logos and applique. — HISTORY: Although the University of California, Los Angeles, was established in 1919, it wasn’t until 2008 when licensee Ideal Europe launched UCLA Clothing and has since built a core following across the globe. With a wide and varied archive of imagery and inspiration to work from, it’s no wonder UCLA Clothing is sought after by college and university students. Encompassing student lifestyle, expect tees, vests, varsity jackets, track pants, polos and hooded tops – easy to see why the brand is so popular with its target market of 16-24 year olds. “Our background in collegiate history means we design vintage-feeling Americana pieces that also work for an older demographic,” says designer Victoria Hunt. Currently counting 150 accounts in the UK, and around 600 doors across the rest of the world, the average wholesale price for a UCLA garment is £16. When asked who she would like to see sporting the brand, music artists stood out for Hunt. “Whether it be hip-hop artists that see the brand in a downtown Los Angeles sense, or more folky/indie artists that recognise UCLA for its beaches, sunshine and relaxed vibe – it can work well on anyone. Kendrink Lamar, for example, is enjoying recent chart success, and it would be great to work with someone whose story is so inspirational.” www.uclaclothing.com

F LYI NG T HE NE ST A brand discovered by MWB at last season’s Bread & Butter, Cuckoos Nest launched in 2010 and originates from the North of England. Animal lovers are catered for with the brand’s spring/summer 2013 collection, as bird and bear prints cover vests, tees, sweaters and hoodies. Children of the 90s, meanwhile, will appreciate the tie-dye and watercolour paint splatter prints and, if retailers like what they see, Cuckoos Nest oﬀers a live stock ordering service, allowing retailers to log in and order directly from the website. —

JUNE 2013 | DENIM & STREET | PRODUCT | 47

ON TREND Seasonal extras: Hi-Tops

1: BOXFRESH £33 020 8371 7554 2: CATERPILLAR FOOTWEAR price on request 020 7860 0100 3: VANS price on request 020 8846 8267 4: PUMA price on request 01924 425555 5: K SWISS £30.35 01458 449300

ST R E E TS O F NEW YO R K With a model as striking as Shaun Ross, it’s easy to presume the latest drop from Mishka doesn’t hold up to much on its own, but its hip New York street vibe is already making waves in the UK market. Designed to make the Mishka man stand out in a crowd, cuts, patterns and silhouettes scream for attention. Key pieces for spring/summer 2013 include a Roman statue print shirt, complete with ﬂuro paint splatters, as well as an oversized bomber jacket featuring the graphic of a human eye. — BRAND TO WATCH

BIKE REPAIR SHOP Under the guidance of Four marketing, Korean label Bike Repair Shop is entering the UK market for the new season following its success in its native land. Launched as a bridge brand to Samsung Cheil Industries’ older label, Beanpole – one of the leading casualwear brands in Asia – Bike Repair Shop has its sights firmly set on the global youth market. With three stockists lined up for autumn/winter 2013, including premium menswear e-tailer oki-ni.com, the label is also sold in 10 Beanpole standalone stores in Korea, with aggressive expansion plans for 90 outlets and territories overseas. Regarding the product itself, average wholesale prices stand at £150, and quality is definitely key. Based on “thinking outside the box”, the brand wants to break the mould of youth dressing and loss of individuality in the current world of fashion. Bike Repair Shop is also looking to build on cultural places for young people, which will see the opening of a flagship store with space to provide an exhibition venue for artists, alongside plans to renovate an abandoned pubic playground for teenagers. www.beanpole.com

ESTABLISHED: 2012 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Quirky wardrobe staples where colour isn’t shy. — HISTORY: Bike Repair Shop was launched in Korea by Samsung Cheil Industries, and is now looking to enter the UK market for autumn/winter 2103.

JUNE 2013 | DENIM & STREET | PRODUCT | 48

UCLA, £18, 01923 234555

NEW LOVE CLUB, £14.81, 020 3627 0449

TOKYO LAUNDRY, PRICE ON REQUEST, 0161 281 4400

Retro college-style sweatshirts make their way to the front of the class this season, with graphic logos key. —

DUCK & COVER, £22, 020 8453 1668

BUCKS & CO, £20, 07712 522874

VOI JEANS, £14, 01772 841988

KNOWN, £23, 07801 281535

WRANGLER, £22, WWW.WRANGLER-EUROPE.COM

CHUNK CLOTHING, £20, 020 7609 6758

unless stated otherwisel, al prices are wholesale

SWEAT IT OUT

For more details please contact info@chatham-marine.co.uk 0845 2700 217

www.chatham-marine.co.uk

 

www.gucinari.co.uk

DEDICATED TO STYLE 

          

JUNE 2013 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 51

SOCIETY The parties and events from in and around the menswear industry.

 CELEBRITY STYLIST MARK HEYES AT LAST MONTH’S CONTOUR BALL, WHICH RAISED OVER £50,000 FOR THE RETAIL TRUST AND THE FASHION & TEXTILE CHILDREN’S TRUST.  BOY GEORGE ON THE DECKS AT ELEVEN PARIS’ FIRST UK STORE OPENING ON LONDON’S CARNABY STREET.

Last month saw a raft of charity fundraisers, from the Contour Ball raising money for the Retail Trust through to sports-star-turned TV presenter Ben Fogle building awareness for ocean pollution. —

 THE 11 WINNERS OF THE NATWEST UKFT AWARDS, CELEBRATING BRITISH TALENT ACROSS MENSWEAR, WOMENSWEAR, FOOTWEAR AND ACCESSORIES.

 ETON OF SWEDEN DESIGNER SEBASTIAN DOLLINGER (LEFT) AND ACTOR JACK GUINNESS AT THE OPENING OF THE UK’S FIRST ETON STANDALONE STORE OPENING.

 TV PRESENTER BEN FOGLE HOSTING THE RECENT ROW2WIN RACE TO RAISE AWARENESS FOR ENVIRONMENTAL CHARITY PLASTIC OCEANS IN CONJUNCTION WITH CREW CLOTHING.

JUNE 2013 | PEOPLE | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 52

coLLecTIVe The people, the places, the products.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK NAg SToRe, copeNHAgeN

SIMON SAYS Too often, I fear, my column has started with the phrase, “I was recently at a dinner/lunch/social event.” I have tried very hard to counter the impression that I spend my time gallivanting around the menswear trade from canapé to cocktail. It simply isn’t true. That said, I was at a dinner recently, attended by the big beasts of the mainstream and department store led menswear brands. And between the starters and the puddings, we did discuss some serious issues. Top of the agenda was Bangladesh. “Oh no,” I can hear you thinking. “His article is going to be all serious and worthy this month.” Well, bear with me, for this is indeed a very serious and wide-ranging issue. One of the arguments put forward was that suppliers are guilty of pursuing poverty. The relentless quest for cheaper labour costs has caused the migration of production from Britain to Europe, China, Vietnam and beyond. And now Bangladesh. Is it ethically and morally right to be celebrating the discovery of a new source of cut-price factory wages? And at what cost are they cut? Plainly, in the case of the Bangladesh tragedy, costs were cut at the expense of safety. But is it fair to blame suppliers? Why are they shifting to these countries and facilities? It is that they are responding to the demands of their customers. In the rat race that is the private-label store business, lowest price almost always secures largest orders. So should the department stores and high-street brands be more willing to pay a premium for ethically responsibly sourced products? Instead of encouraging their suppliers to scour the world for the cheapest garments, should they be leading by example and presenting their end customers with a higher priced garment with a social conscience? Ultimately, it is the public who must bear the responsibility for this. If the consumer was suﬃciently concerned, they would be checking the garment label and voting with their wallets. The stores would respond and the cycle would be broken. Sure, there has been much talk since the disaster, of boycotting Bangladesh, of new labelling, and naming and shaming “bad” shops and brands. And certainly, parallel to this there has been a welcome upsurge in Made in Britain. But I still doubt whether the majority of customers, presented with a £2.99 T shirt made in Bangladesh, and a £19.99 identical product made in England would choose the latter. Until such time as they do, the chase for cheap will continue. Simon carter is the ceo of the eponymous brand and retail stores.

Although Scandinavian style has been ﬁrmly on the radar in the UK market for a while, the Scandinavian retail landscape is something yet to be explored. – Every successful independent business, whether it be a retailer selling fashion or food, knows that picking a niche product and theme will set you apart from the competition. Which is where the success of Copenhagen’s Nag Store lies – its a carefully curated blend of high fashion and lifestyle products, all in a mix of dark tones. Stemming from casual to premium menswear, labels found in the raw and unﬁnished retail space of Nag Store include Linda Farrow, SPR+, Marcelo Burlon and Rick Owens. —

pLAN B

DeAN BATTY CREATIVE DIRECTOR, CRO’JACK

Having had an ordinary upbringing, I had the same dreams for my future as any other young boy, to one day be a footballer, racing driver, astronaut, pilot and so on. At school I enjoyed technical drawing, and quite fancied taking things further and becoming an architect. It was only when I went to polytechnic that I realised how hard that dream would be to fulﬁl, and how long it would take to achieve. So I opted for graphic design, which in those days was also challenging as everything was done by hand, way before computers. And, as is usually the way, I didn’t follow a graphic design career path either, instead opting for owning my own small clothing shop called Threads, while also becoming a clothing agent. Perhaps in hindsight I should have been an astronaut, then I would have had ﬁrst hand experience of true performancewear. —

JUNE 2013 | PEOPLE | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 53

TOP TWEETS Lou Dalton @TheLouDalton Huge congratulations to fellow Fashion Forward recipients.. Woo Hooooo @StudioRaeburn @WEARESIBLING @BFC

CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL mIKAEL SODERLINDH, CEO OF HAPPY SOCKS I don’t like to have to think too much about trends and fashion when I get dressed in the morning so I choose to wear stylish, timeless pieces that are well cut and of great quality. I have items in my wardrobe that have become my staples and I buy time and time again. Probably 90 per cent of the time I’ll be wearing a pair of black slim-cut jeans by Acne. I go through phases with shirts, but find myself going back to T-shirts. Swedish label Our Legacy is one of my favourites. — Although my signature look is understated, the exception to the rule is socks. I wear Happy Socks every day, and at the moment I have on an animal print style. However, as quality is so important to our brand, I road test our samples for fit, so I wear all sorts of bold and bright prints and patterns across a spectrum of colours. I’ll decide what mood I’m in when I wake up, and what socks fit that mood! — my favourite pair of shoes are black leather Loake Burford brogue boots. They are a true classic, but I swap the black laces with red. Because they have become part of my daily uniform, they tend to look well-loved rather than shiny and new, so I treat myself to a fresh pair every year. — Caps are also my weakness. I own hundreds of them and my collection is always growing. My most recently bought cap is a green leopard-print corduroy NY Yankees cap from New Era, a real treasure I found in Tokyo. — On a practical level, I’ll be investing in some motorcycle leathers soon. I’ve always loved fast cars and bikes and have taken my hobby to the next level recently. I’m custom-building a motorbike in my garage at the moment and it’s almost ready to take out on the road. No doubt I’ll need some new wardrobe essentials when that happens. —

THREE OF THE BEST

UKFT @UKFTorg Thank you also to all the generous bidders at #UKFTAwards who raised a whopping £18,500 for @savechildrenuk @SaveEventsTeam King & Allen @kingandallen RT @dieworkwear: Sport sunglasses with black suits: the most classic and timeless of bad looks in men's style Paul Turner-Mitchell @Paul25Ten Centre for Retail Research say by 2018, 22% of high street stores will have disappeared, a total of 61,930 closures with 316,000 job losses. Mary Portas @maryportas Calls for Ikea gnome war advert to be censored because 'children may copy'. Has the world gone mad? Anonymous When I see the prices of Beyonce's new summer range for H&M I can't help but wonder if the men and women who make them are on a fair wage Mr.NN @MrNNleather If there's one thing Northamptonshire has got, it's sole Stylesight @Stylesight A man should look as if he had bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care and then forgotten all about them @SirHardyAmies

mONEY CLIPS

Aspinal of London £74.50, 0845 052 6900

Paul Smith £18, 020 7257 6673

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

Denison Boston £14, 01273 202095

JUNE 2013 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 55

THE BOTTOmLEY LINE

mWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

TIGER ROARS IN AS FIRST CONFIRmED FLAGSHIP FOR GATEWAY DEVELOPmENT Tiger of Sweden has been confirmed as the first signed flagship for The Crown Estate’s Gateway development in St James’s, which is offering nine brand new retail units on Piccadilly and Jermyn Street, and also one on Lower Regent Street. It follows the tremendous recent success the brand has been having, and a 300 per cent growth of UK sales since it was first introduced to Selfridges. Anita Barr, director of menswear at Selfridges, says the brand had become one of the store’s cornerstones of its contemporary offer, and that the label regularly now features in its top performing menswear brands each month. The new store is set to open some time in August and, with such high footfall in the area, added with the interest in the new destination, the brand’s UK sales could start to fly. Good to report some positive news, and that bricks-and-mortar retail is still proving very attractive if done right. The building has been designed by award-winning Eric Parry Architects, and will merge rich history with a modern and luxury shopping experience. The opening of St James’s Gateway forms part of a £500m investment vision by The Crown Estate, reinvigorating Piccadilly while recognising the distinctive nature of St James’s. That’s some serious money to spend to keep London as one of the best shopping destinations in the world.

BATES BACK IN THE DENIm DRIVING SEAT Terry Bates, formerly managing director at Denham, is back in the denim business a year after leaving the Dutch brand, with the launch of Denim is Everything. I’m sure quite a few of you will recognise the name, but it hasn’t been in the market in its previous incarnation for at least four years, maybe more. Bates has acquired the name, but is

 THE NEWLY LAUNCHED DENIM IS EVERYTHING LABEL

 TIGER OF SWEDEN

adamant that the product does not resemble anything that was done before. He simply liked the name, and saw it was available, but most importantly believes there is a gap in the market for a mid-range denim label – oﬀering a good mark-up. He could well be right. This has been 10 months in development, and Bates is looking at hitting the ground running with 30-35 UK accounts in the ﬁrst season, which is a/w 13. Having also previously spent years building Replay in the UK market, and before that launching G-Star in the UK, few would bet against him having some success with this. And he’s doing it the old-skool way – samples in the boot and hitting the road!

DUFFER TO LAUNCH ITS HIGHER END JAPANESE LINE IN THE UK FOR S/S 14 The Duﬀer of St George, with original designer Marco Cairns still at the design helm, is to bring its

higher end Japanese line to the UK for the first time for s/s 14 – to now be sold internationally by Mark Batista’s Brand Progression. How that will conflict with the Duffer line that is now sold in JD Sports stores, and how UK retailers react to it, remains to be seen. But it’s clearly going to appeal to a more savvy clientele, and the more niche of the UK’s menswear retailers who remember the shops, product and influence of Duffer with great fondness and respect. Cairns says they will be resizing the Japanese offer, and it will have its own Duffer branding, presumably different to the high-street line (that’s actually also pretty decent in its own right as it’s also designed by Cairns, and we are led to believe has been a great success ). Prices are to be confirmed, but quality and design details are bound to distinguish the Japanese line enough from the mainstream offer. It will also now be shown at Jacket Required for the first time, a very worthy addition indeed. The real Duffer’s back in town!

JUNE 2013 | DIRECTORY | 56

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NeXT ISSUe JULY SeASoNAL FoRecAST THE FIRST PART OF OUR SPRING/SUMMER 2014 LOWDOWN THe FUTURe oF THe HIgH STReeT KEY FINDINGS FROM THE RECENT BIRA CONFERENCE DIRecT FRom FLoReNce PICKS FROM PITTI UOMO + online Insider | Retail Insider | collective | Last orders with...

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LAST ORDERS WITH... RICHARD ROBINSON Established in 2011, Realm & Empire has built a cult following since its inception with its signature military and historical influences. Victoria Jackson speaks to the label’s recently appointed brand director, Richard Robinson, about his strategy moving into spring/summer 2014. — Place of birth: Leicester Lives now: Cheshire Date of birth: 03/11/1970 Website: www.realmandempire.com Twitter: @realmandempire — What was it about Realm & Empire that drew you to the role of brand director? The concept and the people behind the brand. We have an incredible resource of archive garments to work with and a great team to execute the product. What skills are you bringing with you from your previous role at One True Saxon? I joined One True Saxon at a time when the brand needed re-energising and focusing back to its core consumer. I built a strong team and we made excellent progress in defining the product DNA and restoring retailer confidence in the brand. This experience will be key in defining and establishing Realm & Empire in the market. And having been in retail buying and merchandising for over 20 years, I have a strong understanding of the pressures facing retailers and what they are looking for from their brand partners to grow their business. What is the first strategy you want to implement in your new role? Effective communication, first and foremost. It’s easy for buyers to have a preconception of a brand, but Realm & Empire is such a unique proposition that we need to be speaking to our customers and potential partners to build awareness and properly communicate the label’s strategic direction in the marketplace. In terms of market level, where would you say Realm & Empire stands? Our target market position is entry level in the premium sector. The competition is ever-changing, as the current market is so volatile. We pride ourselves on our garment quality. As Realm & Empire matures and focuses more on product detail, I see our key adjacencies being brands such as Barbour, Ralph Lauren and Paul Smith Jeans. What’s in store for s/s 14? An expansion in our category offering and all-over

desert-inspired prints. Think Lawrence of Arabia; the sandy palette consists of strong greens, browns, oysters and blues. Shirts feature heavily in plain and print, with lightweight scarves to complement, rounded off with incredible photographic prints from Sir Cecil Beaton’s archive. Every garment has a defined point of inspiration and is connected by the season’s theme. In terms of personal style, is there anyone you look to in particular for inspiration? For me it’s more about great quality and welldesigned product. I am fiercely brand loyal, and the labels on my personal radar have an excellent understanding of their customer and how to execute key trends to them. I also prefer to invest in people I enjoy working with and who have a strong business vision. I am a great admirer of Paul Smith and Fred Perry for all of the above. Any there brands you’d like to team up with? We already have a collaboration with Imperial War Museum’s garment archive, which is the key to Realm & Empire’s concept. Long-term, there are numerous brands we would like to partner with. Short-term, our focus will be to collaborate with key retail partners and iconic fabric manufacturers.

qUICK-FIRE qUESTIONS — Who is your mentor? George Davies — What piece of advice would you give your 16-year-old self? Praise loudly... blame softly — Who’d play you in a ﬁlm? James Roderick Moir — I wish I could resist… Being last at the bar — What’s your most treasured possessions… Photos of my family, my hoard of Fender guitars and my music collection —

f i n e s we d i s h s h i rt m a k e r

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