MWB December issue 208 by fashion buyers Ltd

ISSUE 208 | DECEMBER 2013 | £6.95 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

THE EXHIBITIONIST YOUR DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO THE AUTUMN/WINTER 2014 BUYING CALENDAR — WALKING TALL DISCOVERING FOOTWEAR LABEL RED WING’S LATEST RETAIL VENTURE

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DECEMBER 2013 | CONTENTS | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 03

R E T A I L 12

Online Insider Advice, news and issues online

Retail Insider The latest in-store news

Eastern promise CPM and the Russian market are placed under the telescope

G E N T 24

Product news Rounding up the key stories this month

In-season Rich pickings

Pitti Uomo The ﬁrst look at what Florence has to oﬀer next month

21st century 39 Club MWB catches up with the new driving force behind The 39 Club

Panorama Discovering what the latest Berlin trade show has in store for a/w 14

D E N I M 38

Product news

S T R E E T

Rounding up the key stories this month

In-season Cool runnings

These boots are made for talking American footwear brand Red Wing’s latest retail venture

Bread & Butter The key brands to catch this January in urban, sports and streetwear

Exhibition calendar MWB’s comprehensive guide to the a/w 14 buying season

R E G U L A R S 5 6 20

Comment News Interview

Michele Malenotti

51 52 55 58

Society Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With… Taylor Morris

Front cover

Mi Pac info@justconsultancies.co.uk —

DECEMBER 2013 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 05

EDITOR

commenT

Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com — DEPuT y

EDITOR

Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — CONTRIBuTORS Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — SuB

EDITOR

Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — DESIGNERS Michael Podger michael@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — SALES

MANAGER

Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — SuB SCRIPTIONS Caroline Mackinnon caroline@moda-uk.co.uk — HEAD

MENSWEAR

Jamie Harden jamie@moda-uk.co.uk — PRODuCTION

DIRECTOR

Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — PORTFOLIO

DIRECTOR

Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — MARkETING

DIRECTOR

Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — MANAGING

DIRECTOR

Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com —

MWB is published 11 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2013 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication. Reprographics/printing Image Colourprint Ltd 01482 652323 —

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The age-old, but essential, topic of customer service is one we find ourselves touching on again and again in the retail trade. And having found myself on the negative end of the issue not once, but twice, in the same well-known department store recently, I thought I’d share the tale with you. — So there I was, on the footwear floor of a department store that apparently prides itself on its “second-to-none” customer service. Instead, I was made to feel a burden to its staff, who were standing chatting to one another, when I (gasp) asked if there was a possibility of trying on a different size. The member of staff, who had the obvious displeasure of serving me, went into the back for around 15 minutes, while I sat on a wobbly stool and watched as more customers were ignored. She then returned with three boxes, all in a size three – I had asked for a size five. When I explained that, unfortunately for the both of us, I would not be able to fit into the size threes, I was greeted with a look so powerful it could kill, and then the words, “Well, we don't have any more,” were muttered under her breath. I left after 30 minutes, no shoes in hand, scolding myself for having feet that weren’t two sizes smaller. I wish I could say it was a one-off, that perhaps the staff members in question – all four of them – were having an off-day. But when the task of searching for craft materials for my impending homemade Christmas cards came up, I returned to the store hoping that, this time round, my trip would be slightly more successful. Having made my way down to the stationery section in search of a gold pen, I was pointed in the direction of haberdashery on the fourth floor, only to be told – once I had travelled up numerous escalators – that I was, in fact, in the wrong department and needed to be back down on the lower ground floor in stationery. I asked a member of staff where I could then find candles and was sent to the homeware section. I had no reason to doubt the man – after all, anyone would assume candles would be with candlesticks and other decorative items. Wrong. Having searched for a while and approached another employee, I was sent to the beauty department back upstairs. By this point I was tired, and my stress levels had risen to the point of grabbing my phone to Tweet my anger. I left empty handed. The morale of this tale is that no matter how much you spend on Christmas advertising, or how many designers you stock under one roof, if your staff do not have the knowledge of the products they are selling, or in fact where they can be found in-store, none of it really matters. I, for one, won’t be returning to find out if it’s third-time lucky. Victoria Jackson editor

DECEMBER 2013 | NEWS | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 06

N E W S

MERC CONTINU ES GLOBAL CONCESSION S ROLL-OUT

ON LIN E SET TO BE SAVIOU R OF “ M A K E OR BR EAK” FEST IVE SEA SON With online retail revenues set to break the £10bn mark this Christmas, UK retailers are preparing themselves for the battle to gain the custom of price-cautious and timestarved shoppers. According to a report by industry group IMRG, consumer spending with online retailers will reach £10.8bn through December. With online purchases predicted to rise sharply compared to the same period last year and those buying online after browsing reaching a five-year high of five per cent in the run-up to this Christmas, many retailers are trying a new multi-channel approach to track customers through their smartphones in and around stores and learn more about their preferences from their shopping behaviour. “For the first time in three years we expect annual e-retail growth to exceed the level recorded in the previous year, with 2013 sales on target to achieve 15 per cent growth on last year,” says Tina Spooner, chief information officer at IMRG. “We are seeing a number of retailers ramping up their online offering in the run-up to Christmas. Click and Collect, next-day delivery and even one-hour delivery slots are just a few of the options on offer to attract the lucrative festive shopper at this highly competitive time of the year.” Despite the positive forecast, for many retailers the Christmas trading period is a time of “make or break”, and this year, for those with an online retail arm, careful planning and forethought is vital in order to maximise on opportunities available during this time. The shopping days from Black Friday up to 24 December are the most important of the year for retailers, and one thing is clear – they need to use every available method at their disposal to increase revenue. Stores are using mobile tracking technologies to increase their level of consumer engagement and improve the customer shopping experience. But the ability to track customers on their smartphones in and around stores could help bricks-and-mortar retailers tackle the online threat in other ways, too, according to Dan Wagner, retail technology entrepreneur and CEO of mobile payment specialist Powa Technologies. “It’s all about offering the consumer something extra,” he says. “Geolocation is clearly part of that picture and it’s something a physical retailer can leverage that an online retailer can’t. If a customer transmits their location to a retailer, the retailer could let them know that they have a shop 300 yards away, for example. The store could send then a message telling the customer to drop by in half an hour when their goods will be ready to collect. Amazon can’t do that.” —

British menswear label Merc is continuing its global expansion with the launch of a series of new shop-inshop concepts in Asia. Following on from the brand’s expansion into House of Fraser and Galleries Lafayette in Jakarta, the brand has most recently opened a 60 sq m store concept in Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Road in Bangkok. “The new opening indicates the strength of the Merc brand worldwide,” says Andy Tompsett, head of UK sales and production. “Coupled with the recent successes with online retailers such as Asos, with its launch into Russia and China, and Zalando in 14 markets, the export domain of Merc is looking stronger than ever. The new emerging marketing does have its challenges, but our first foray into Thailand has been met with much acclaim.” —

UKFT HELPS WITH CARE L ABELLING LICEN CE FEE The UK Fashion & Textile Association (UKFT) has introduced a new membership initiative that could help retailers save thousands in annual care labelling fees. The UKFT recently absorbed the Home Laundering Consultative Council (HLCC) into its organisation, a UK member of the international body Ginetex, which owns the trademark of the five basic wash care symbols that are used in garments throughout the world. As these care labels are registered trademark protected in over 50 countries, their use requires a licence fee, which can amount to hundreds of thousands of Euros per year. Thanks to the new organisational structure, UKFT offers its members the option to use the care symbols throughout the world without incurring any further charges by joining the UKFT Retail Partner Programme, which is open to any retailer who sells its own brand or label outside the UK. —

DECEMBER 2013 | NEWS | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 07

IN BRIEF

BR IT ISH M A N U FACT U R ER S RA MP U P PRODUCTION

ST R EET W EA R SHOW THE LEDGE POSTPONED

British manufacturers are seeing the fastest growth in production in 18 years, a survey by the Confederation of Business Industry (CBI) reveals. The findings show growth in orders and level of output are at their highest level since 1995, highlighting the rise in confidence in British production. Output volumes over the three months to November rose in all but one sector – electrical engineering – while 11 per cent of firms said order books were above normal in November. “Manufacturers finally seem to be feeling the benefit of growing confidence and spending within Britain and globally,” says Stephen Gifford, CBI director of economics. “But British exporters need government support to break into high-growth export markets to reduce their vulnerability to any Eurozone flare-ups.” —

Action sports and streetwear trade show The Ledge has been cancelled for the up-coming autumn/winter 2014 buying season, citing “conflicting dates with production deadlines and clashes with similar events and locations” as the reason. “The decision to suspend The Ledge has been an extremely difficult one and has been taken with a heavy heart,” says director Kelin Phillipson. “With tighter and constantly shifting sales, show and showroom deadlines spread throughout an increasingly small sales window of opportunity, for the time being there are no acceptable dates on which to confidently deliver a successful event and provide the industry with the show it deserves.” The Ledge has always been co-located with LondonEdge, which will be continuing its autumn/winter 2014 show, running on 2-4 February 2014 at London’s Olympia. —

JOU LES PUSHES EXPANSION W IT H LDC PARTNERSHIP

NICK GRIMSHAW APPOINTED A S M EN SW EA R A M BA SSA DOR

British lifestyle label Joules is driving forward with expansion plans, following a £22m minority investment by private equity specialist LDC. The brand has enjoyed success in the UK market over the past 12 months, doubling EBITDA to £7.4m. With 76 own stores nationwide, international expansion is a key focus – Joules has successfully launched in Singapore and South Korea – with continued expansion in existing French, German and US markets. “It is a fantastic time for Joules to welcome the many opportunities we have as a lifestyle brand and, with the support of LDC, we can accelerate the next steps of our journey,” says Tom Joule, CEO. —

The British Fashion Council has appointed radio presenter Nick Grimshaw as menswear ambassador for London Collections: Men. Joining current menswear ambassadors David Gandy, Dermot O’Leary and Tinie Tempah, the presenter will work closely with the menswear committee to champion British designers, and support shows and events at London Collections: Men. “We are thrilled Nick Grimshaw has become an ambassador for London Collections: Men, as his innate style, enormous influence and enthusiasm for British fashion make him a perfect choice,” says Dylan Jones, chair of London Collections: Men. “The support of our industry has been crucial to the development and success of London Collections: Men.” The next edition will run on 6-8 January 2014. —

BUSINESSES REMAIN UNCONVINCED ON IMPACT OF INDEPENDENCE Three quarters of Scottish small businesses would vote to remain part of the UK next year, but 60 per cent felt information was still lacking on the potential impact of independence in several areas, according to figures released by the Forum of Private Business. The results come ahead of the Scottish government paper, outlining how independence could boost the country’s economy. It suggests that the Scottish government still has considerable ground to cover to convince firms of the benefits of an independent state. On the economic benefit of Scottish independence, 49 per cent of businesses questioned see it as a threat to the country’s future economic growth, while only 17 per cent see it as a potential opportunity. Businesses struggling with increased costs identified uncertainty as a significant problem when it comes to future business planning. EDINBURGH WOOLLEN MILL JOINS BANGLADESH FIRE AND BUILDING SAFETY ACCORD Edinburgh Woollen Mill has become the latest company to join the Bangladesh Fire and Safety Accord. The move comes after months of pressure from activists from SumOfUs.org, a global consumer watchdog, the Trade Union Congress and Labour Behind the Label, who had been pushing the company to sign the Accord in response to the deaths of thousands of Bangladeshi garment workers in factory collapses and fires. “Now that the Edinburgh Woollen Mill is leading the way on workers’ safety, we can only hope that Asda and GAP follow their competitors’ lead,” says Martin Cadwell, UK campaigner for SumOfUs.org. “Only legally binding programmes that are accountable to workers can guarantee the clothes we buy aren’t made in death traps. Consumers around the world have made it clear they care about workers’ safety, and we hope other companies will listen now that several of their top competitors have signed on the Bangladesh Fire and Safety Accord.” JOHN LEWIS HEADS TO WESTFIELD LONDON John Lewis is to open one of its largest stores to date in London’s Westfield shopping centre in Shepherd’s Bush, spanning 230,000 sq ft. Built on four levels, the store will hold more than 350,000 lines, and is estimated to cost around £30m and will create 600 jobs. “Our business in London has strengthened significantly over recent years,” says Andy Street, managing director, John Lewis. “It is therefore right that we move to open in Westfield London and bring our offer to customers in the west of the city.” Michael Gutman, Westfield’s European managing director, says, “John Lewis is the most requested store at Westfield London, and we are delighted that we will soon be able to deliver on this for our customers.” The new John Lewis store will be part of a £1bn extension of the shopping centre, which will also see the construction of 1,500 new homes as part of the regeneration of the White City area. This is expected to be completed by 2017.

DECEMBER 2013 | NEWS | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 08

IN BRIEF

ROY A L WA R R A N T FOR JOHN STONS OF ELGIN

FORUM OF PRIVATE BUSINESS CA LLS ON CHANCELLOR

Cashmere and fine woollens specialist Johnstons of Elgin unveiled its Royal Warrant during an in-store event at its Elgin site. The company was recently granted The Royal Warrant by HRH The Prince of Wales for the manufacture and supply of Estate Tweed cloth to the Royal household. During a small reception, Grenville Johnston, the Lord Lieutenant of Moray, commends the achievement. ”I am always heartened when I learn that firms in Moray have achieved a Queens Award or a Royal Warrant or some industry recognition of the hard work and endeavour that Moray firms seek to achieve for the good of the area,” he says. “This particular Royal Warrant recognises quite a bit of the history of estate tweeds in Scotland and in particular Johnston’s part in the promotion of the products.” —

Ahead of the Chancellor’s autumn statement this month, the Forum of Private Business has written to George Osbourne with a wish list of top business needs to help capitalise on recent signs of recovery and get Britain trading back at pre-2008 levels. The Forum is calling on the Chancellor to look at ways to make it easier for small businesses to access alternative forms of finance by reviewing how current restrictions are making it difficult for small firms to obtain new finance to fund growth. In addition, the group is keen to see continued support in reducing businesses costs, including a freeze on business rates until 2014. With over 97 per cent of its members believing that property taxation is too high, the Forum is asking for an extension of Small Business Rate Relief until the end of the current parliament and an independent study to look at the current system of business rates. —

Y R STORE COLL A BORAT ES W ITH TOPMAN

NEWGEN RECIPIENTS A N N OU N CED

Yr Store, the world’s first live all-over print specialist, has collaborated with Topman to provide customers with the opportunity to design and create bespoke Topman garments. The Yr Topman partnership enables customers to create their own clothing in minutes using Yr’s interactive touch screens to design one-off patterns, printed using the world’s only live all-over digital printing process. Featuring exclusive print stories designed and curated by Topman’s creative team to reflect the retailer’s key a/w 13 themes, the Yr Topman design archive will continually offer customers new trends including Street Grunge, Kremlin, Urban Outdoors and Concrete Safari. —

The British Fashion Council (BFC) has revealed the 10 designers who will receive Newgen Men sponsorship, enabling them to showcase their a/w 14 collections at London Collections: Men. The initiative, sponsored by Topman, will see the highest number of designers receive support since it launched in 2009. Three new designers will join Newgen Men, including Common, Kit Neale and footwear designer Diego Vanassibar, who will exhibit his collection in the Designer Showrooms. The full list of recipients for a/w 14 are Agi & Sam, Astrid Andersen, Common, Diego Vanassibara, Kit Neale, Lee Roach, Martine Rose, Matthew Miller, Nasir Mazhar and Shaun Samson. All recipients receive sponsorship and showcasing opportunities at London Collections: Men, as well as tailored business and mentoring support. —

HYPE TAKES NEXT STEP INTO FOOTWEAR British streetwear label Hype has expanded its offer to include footwear for autumn/winter 2013. Founded by friends Aidy Lennox and Liam Green in 2011, the brand has grown from a small T-shirt label into a complete streetwear collection. Modelled by menswear face of the moment Jimmy Q, the collection includes retro-style running trainers and canvas pumps. Prints take centre stage, with tropical, camouflage and galaxy panelling across the shoes, while vivid colour options keep the collection quintessentially Hype. NEW MOSS BROS E-RETAIL SITE TO USE SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING FOR DELIVERY Moss Bros home delivery service for formal suit hire has introduced innovative packaging from BoxGarment, a packing specialist business founded by ex-Apprentice contestant Stephen Brady. Brady, who took part in the TV series last year, has created a corrugated packaging that requires no tape or fastenings and can be reused to send products back to Moss Bros. “Home delivery is the last point at which a retailer can influence a shopper with packaging and, until now, it’s been a wasted opportunity to promote the brand,” says BoxGarment founder Brady. “Too many items are delivered in plain plastic packaging, which doesn’t look good, isn’t sustainable and doesn’t protect the clothes. DENHAM LAUNCHES NEW DENIM CAPSULE COLLECTION Denim specialist Denham has launched its latest range of denim product, Category 5. The collection comprises classic five-pocket denims in four new fits for both men’s and womenswear, from unwashed to progressive washed, based on vintage pieces from the brand’s archives. WOLSEY ANNOUNCES GLOBAL BRAND AMBASSADOR Menswear label Wolsey has announced its latest global brand ambassador, British expedition leader Alex Hibbert. Hibbert holds the world record for the longest unsupported Arctic journey in history, and is currently preparing The Dark Ice Project – a daring trek to the North Pole in the blackness of winter. “We are delighted to be working with Alex,” says chairman and creative director Jamey Hargreaves. “As a modern-day polar explorer, Alex is a perfect fit for Wolsey and everything the brand stands for. We look forward to working closely with him and supporting his exploration to the North Pole.” Between mid-December 2013 and July 2014, Hibbert and the Dark Ice team will each haul over 250kg the length of the Nares Strait and make an unsupported return attempt on the Geographic North Pole.

DECEMBER 2013 | ADVICE | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 12

ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.

advICe: WHY SHOULD RETAILERS INVEST IN THEIR WI-FI NETWORK?

PAUL LEYBOURNE is head of sales at Vodat International, the telecom communications company. fieldworksmarketing.co.uk

Over the past 18 months there has been an increasing demand for Wi-Fi networks from retail businesses. While some retailers are still trying to provide Wi-Fi on the cheap, most see the value in installing business-class solutions that give them greater management of the Wi-Fi network from the head oﬃce and a robust, secure system. In many sectors, including fashion retail, wireless connectivity is almost expected as an industry standard. People increasingly presume to see network access for wireless devices, and it is becoming the norm as the standard improves. The demand has come about as a result of the proliferation of smartphone devices that enable customers to log into networks at the click of a button – with wireless connection looked upon as a value added service. However, businesses that want to thrive will capitalise on this and provide wireless connection as part of their everyday service. With 94 per cent of adults owning a mobile phone in the UK (Ofcom 2013), what better method is there for retailers to communicate with their customers? Customers now use mobiles and tablets to access retail websites to research products and make purchases, as well as downloading vouchers for redemption in-store and accessing free WiFi networks. It’s also an easy way for retailers to send direct marketing in the form of push alerts, enticing customers into the store with oﬀers and sales information. Having a Wi-Fi network that provides guest access without compromising the corporate networks security and performance by limiting the sites they can access and controlling the amount of bandwidth they can have is a key factor in the decision-making process and can lead to increased loyalty and sales. —

WEB WATCH

WWW.HARRISONANDFYFE.COM One of the most exciting e-tailers to have launched this year, Harrison & Fyfe is a sophisticated collection of carefully handpicked accessory labels. a slick operation where product images are shot in-house in the same simple but winning format, the website oﬀers accessories from leather goods to grooming and stationery, with the odd apparel thrown in for good measure. The brand portfolio includes names such as Harris Tweed, Izola, Steve Mono and andrey & Shay. —

NEWS

WOLF & BADGER REVEALS NEW-LOOK WEBSITE London retailer Wolf & Badger has re-launched its online retail arm in a bid to become a destination shop for new talent. Stocking both men’s and womenswear, the store has an easy-to-use navigation with black font on white background and an interactive opening page. The site will include exclusive online-only brands, including jewellery label Lee Renée and scarf designer Sabina Savage. Current menswear labels include Gudrun + Gudrun, Moongazer, Smith-Wykes and Garderobe.

ASOS DEBUTS CHINESE RETAIL ARM Online fashion retailer Asos has launched its Chinese site, the e-tailer’s eighth local language site. The Chinese debut joins the likes of the US, Russia, Australia, Germany, France, Spain and Italy. Forming a partnership with Hybris, the e-commerce software and multi-channel solution group, Asos was able to enter the market successfully. Asos.com/cn offers its Chinese customers a specific tailor-made version of Asos and features extras such as pricing in Chinese Yuan Renminbi, local delivery services and return options, relevant editorial content and social-media platforms. “China continues to impress us with its steady growth,” says Nick Robertson, CEO, Asos. “The launch will not only help navigate and break down existing barriers, but also dramatically improve the Asos experience for our fast-growing number of Chinese customers.”

DECEMBER 2013 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 14

RETAIl INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry. —

vIEWPOInT John Deane-Bowers is the founder and co-owner of Trotter & Deane menswear in Bury St Edmunds, Suﬀolk. He is a member of FAB.

BA R BOU R OPENS FIR ST IN T ER N AT ION A L STA N DA LON E STOR E British heritage label Barbour has launched its debut International standalone store, situated between London’s Piccadilly and Jermyn Street. The new shop, which measures 3,000 sq ft over two floors, and showcases the brand’s biker fashion range including CE-approved armour jackets, knitwear, footwear and accessories for both men and women, is part of Barbour’s ongoing expansion plans for further retail growth in key markets such as the UK, Germany and the US. “We are delighted to be opening our first Barbour International store in St James’s Gateway,” says Ian Beattie, marketing director and national sales manager, Barbour. “Motorcycle clothing first appeared in our brochures in the 1900s and is just as important to Barbour’s heritage as country clothing. With the new dedicated store we will be able to showcase our fashion collections inspired by the Halcyon days of motorcycling.” —

IN BRIEF BROKEDOWN PALACE OPENS IN BOXPARK Brokedown Palace, the online retailer founded in London’s Hackney, has opened its doors at the capital’s Boxpark pop-up mall in Shoreditch. Running for a threemonth trial period, the pop-up shop is the only place in East London to stock Swedish outdoor brand Fjällräven, including the label’s iconic Kaken backpack and its sought-after Greenland Winter Jacket. Other brands found at the pop-up cabin include Pendleton, Out of Print, Sitka, Makia and North Sea Clothing. —

INDUSTRIE LAUNCHES IN SEVEN DIALS Australian label Industrie has opened its doors in London’s Seven Dials shopping area. This marks the UK debut for the brand, which currently holds 85 stockists. “Industrie has friends in London counting the days until we open, but we're looking forward to introducing our relaxed, affordable way of dressing to locals, too,” says area manager Jordan Lawson. The Seven Dials store will stock the complete a/w 13 range including shirting, chinos, denim, shorts, outerwear and European-made footwear. —

There has been a lot of talk about the weather influencing fashion retail sales this year. The summer started off poorly and was eventually too hot for shopping, and we have since experienced unseasonably warm weather for selling serious winter merchandise. On a positive note, we are re-investing in our bricks and mortar by installing a new till area and expanding the accessories section for Christmas. Given that 2012 was our best year on record, the fact that this year is currently two per cent down, I’m not displeased in the grand scheme of things. The Trotter & Deane own-brand, which has been evolving over the past 15 years, now represents 95 per cent of our sales. I am proud to say that we even provide business for some local manufacturers and suppliers in East Anglia. Recent government initiatives supporting the return of manufacturing to the UK have been enormously helpful in this respect. Trotter & Deane has been a labour of love for me over the years, as my philosophy has always been to develop my own brand and shorten the distribution chain. I care as much about my suppliers as they do about me, and I feel strongly that an active supplier-stockist partnership is the recipe for success in this sector. By doing business on my own terms, with suppliers I trust, we can both benefit. There is no getting away from the fact that big suppliers will always do whatever it takes to sell their product, and these challenges have been greatly exacerbated by their online presence. I don’t see any sense in going into competition with the brands that supply me, so I have cut them down to just a few. As it is, I can say with confidence that a £350 Trotter & Deane jacket in our store is worth exactly that. Our customer is therefore getting great value as well as the friendly and knowledgeable customer service for which we are known. The same cannot be said of a jacket that has been through a long distribution chain involving several different pairs of hands. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

DECEMBER 2013 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 15

SHOppED: PER luI what are you doing to combat early season discounting from online shops selling the same goods as you? Early season discounting both in stores and online is obviously a problem, and seems it is here to stay. To lessen the eﬀect, we obviously need to be sharper with the buying so as not to be sitting on large amounts of excess stock in November. It’s a problem us buyers should have addressed, but the mild weather, coupled with customers’ everdecreasing disposable income, has left us with more stock than we would have liked for a season that starts in October and seems to end on Boxing Day. NaTHaN BullEN, BUYER, PER LUI, — WATFORD so are your stock levels greater than you anticipated? We did feel we had got our stock levels right this season, but we would have liked to have been in a better position to order some in-season winners, or pick up some Sale buys. But we have found this year has been as tough as the last, restricting our capability to take advantage of this. Next year’s winter buy will maybe have to be reduced again, although we will continue to back our core brands, as many of these can hold their full retail price on their core product. — what’s been doing well for you? Ralph Lauren is still holding on to last year’s ﬁgures, and we have had a good season with Barbour this year. Also, denim is back strong, with slim and tapered styles driving sales making the chino redundant for us once again. —

IN FOCUS: PHIlIP BRowNE 3 GuIldHall HIll, NoRwIcH NR2 1JH

EsTaBlIsHEd: 1986 BRaNds oN oFFER: MONCLER, BELSTAFF, MATCHLESS, RRL, JEREMY SCOTT, SHADOW PROJECT STONE ISLAND, VIVIENNE WESTWOOD, SUNSPEL, BARBOUR, Y-3, CROMBIE, JOHN SMEDLEY, CHURCH’S, TRICKER’S

POP-UP CONCEPT L AUNCH FOR BOOMER A NG Swedish lifestyle label Boomerang opened its first UK pop-up store in Farnham, Surrey, last month. The store, located on West Street (formerly Saddlers), houses both men’s and womenswear, both with a pre-Christmas delivery, and will be open in its current format until March next year. The second phase of the brand’s retail development will see the store, which currently measures 75 sq m, expand to 134 sq m. “We’ve been looking at Farnham for some time, but when the Saddlers building came up for lease, we jumped at the opportunity,” says Daniel Cutler, UK and Irish distributor. “It needed a lot of work, but its potential reflects the Boomerang brand perfectly. There’s also a great flow of footfall from Lion & Lamb Yard opposite and Elphicks department store, which is just a few doors down from us.” —

IN BRIEF

The original Philip Browne shop opened in November 1986 at 2 Guildhall Hill in Norwich, but has had three incarnations. Twenty seven years later, Browne says he realises that what was his naivety then is his success now. He wanted Armani and Stone Island. The answer was “no”. So he made up his own script with new, vintage and classical designers. Browne has built his business on risks. He was an early adopter of the movement to drive forward English heritage brands during the late 90s, and Belstaﬀ was styled with Westwood bondage. Lyle & Scott was a forgotten brand he bought into early, and Adidas, Barbour and suiting from Kilgour on Savile Row added another interesting mix. He says that suppliers in the main never understand his avant garde slant, and some brands have refused to supply him on the basis of his brand mix. But, with Browne, it’s never been a calculated formula, merely an eclectic style that represents himself. In October he opened up a tattoo studio called Rag & Bone, situated in the suit department and run by identical twins. Browne likes to do things diﬀerently, and for that he is a breath of fresh air. —

WORLD’S LARGEST HACKETT LONDON STORE OPENS London’s Regent Street continues to build on its reputation as one of the ultimate shopping and lifestyle destinations with the opening of the world’s largest Hackett London store. The three-storey flagship plays host to an in-house tailor for Hackett’s bespoke tailoring range, as well as casualwear, formalwear, kidswear and the Hackett Mayfair collections. Other new flagship stores in the area include iconic British luxury fashion brand Aquascutum, which recently opened on Great Marlborough Street. —

DECEMBER 2013 | PROMOTION | 16

FRESH FOR THE NEW YEAR 16-18 February 2014, NEC Birmingham Fresh for 2014, Moda, the UK’s largest fashion trade show welcomes a host of new and exciting brands and features. We have the exclusive reveal on what’s set to make Moda even more of a must-visit this season. — CAMEL ACTIVE

PLDM BY PALLADIUM

From casual style through to tailored sophistication, a host of big name brands from across the world of men’s clothing, accessories and footwear will present their latest collections at Moda this season. An ever-strengthening roster of lifestyle labels will make their way to Moda Gent and Moda Footwear for a/w 14. In clothing, Farah 1920 returns to the show with a fresh take on classic designs such as the pea coat and flight jacket for its outwear offering. Heavy knits and autumnal hues are emerging as a key trend among brands at the show. British heritage label Morley, Irish brand Vedoneire and lifestyle heavyweight Camel Active will all offer their interpretations of the changing palette of the great outdoors. New to the show this season and bringing a cool, clean look to Moda Gent, Danish brand Bertoni presents a range of tailored suits and

coats. Fellow debutants include Irish label 6th Sense, high-end tailoring brand Dielmar and lifestyle label Crew. Perfectly positioned next to Moda Gent, a host of men’s footwear specialists are poised to bring the best new season designs to the show across six key product zones. A new leather look is sweeping across the Life product zone, which crosscuts casual and lifestyle labels, perfectly complementing the collections set to appear in Moda Gent. Brands including PLDM by Palladium, Ikon Footwear and Front London are among the labels taking boot and brogue designs to new frontiers with worn leather, strong pigments and new styles respectively. Joining them in Life are a host of Moda Footwear favourites including The Art Company and Dude Shoes. —

IKON FOOTWEAR

SE LE C T The stand-out area dedicated to contemporary and urban men’s footwear and apparel is shaping up for another season of strong brands with returning favourites Gabicci Vintage, Guide London and Jekyll & Hyde leading clothing pack while newcomer Aymo joins Select staple T.U.K shoes and its range of punk and undergroundinspired footwear. —

DECEMBER 2013 | PROMOTION | 17

VEDONEIRE

NEW PART Y VE NU ES

EVE N M O R E I NF O R M AT I O N AND I NSPI R AT I O N

Monday night at Moda just got even bigger as the show combines its two parties to host one big social and networking event at the Punchbowl in Lapworth. A modern take on British Victoriana, the venue offers picturesque surroundings and a fantastic menu, creating the perfect setting in which to relax and socialise after the show. Tickets will be available to purchase for the event. Visit moda-uk.co.uk for more details or email Caroline Mackinnon to book at caroline@moda-uk.co.uk or call +44 (0)1484 846069. —

AYMO

In addition to the great line-up of brands and new features at this season’s event, you will find the ultimate inspiration for your store with daily catwalk shows at the Hall 20 Catwalk Theatre, located next to Select. Featuring the best of the trends from across the show, stylist Fran Lee will present the latest in men’s tailoring and lifestyle, urban and contemporary and footwear and accessories. Moda’s Big Live Debate series returns after its successful launch last season. With lively discussions around the hottest topics affecting the menswear sector gathering speed ahead of February, Moda has announced an additional Big Live Footwear Debate. Alongside a fantastic programme of business seminars, Moda is a hub for everything you need to know about the industry. —

M O BI LE M O DA

With Moda’s online Community and App there has never been a better way to prepare yourself for the show. Available through the Moda website, the Community is a dedicated area where you can search for brands, set up meetings and create an online profile. Keeping pace with your busy schedule, the Moda App allows you to set your personal agenda for the show – with a full schedule of seminars and catwalks – as well as navigate the halls whilst on site with interactive floor plans. —

BERTONI

For information on all the latest signings, full details of the catwalk and seminar programmes and to register for your free ticket visit moda-uk.co.uk.

DECEMBER 2013 | PROFILE | 18

EastErn ProMisEs russia’s fashion trade show CPM Moscow recently celebrated its 10th anniversary, having become the key meeting point for foreign labels and multi-brand retailers in the region. isabella Griﬃths visited the event and reports on the challenges and opportunities of the complex but dynamic russian fashion sector. —

Driving from the airport into the centre of Moscow, one can’t escape the multitude of contrasts the foreign visitor is confronted with. On the outskirts, amid miles and miles of bland tower blocks typical of Eastern Block architecture, sit countless shopping centres hosting everything from cars and clothing to Swedish furniture and grocery superstores, oozing a strange concoction of consumerism and post-communist gloom. The city centre, meanwhile, steeped in history, presents an imposing mixture of the past and present, where traditional architecture meets state-of-the-art retail temples from the biggest international high-street names, which sit alongside the who’s who of luxury brands, who are all represented in the Russian capital. Russia has been a gold mine for most international players who were quick to set-up branches here and capitalise on the country’s huge appetite for Western goods, with fashion having been a key segment over the last decade or so. It has been a lucrative, if rather challenging, market to operate in, but it has oﬀered most companies huge returns on investment once they overcame the hurdles associated with exporting to the country, such as tough customs regulations, poor infrastructure, complicated logistics,

corruption, the huge operational outlay and the obvious language barriers and cultural differences. “The Russian fashion industry is still in its early stages, but the sector has made huge progress in the past 10 years,” says Reinhard Döpfer, chairman of the European Fashion and Textile Export Council (EFTEC). “Russian apparel used to be primarily sold at markets and bazaars, where it was packed tightly together on the racks. Russian fashion stores used to black out their windows and leave their window displays empty for fear of attracting criminals,” he says. This obviously changed significantly with the arrival of international retail chains, who introduced their systems and CIs into the shopping landscape and, as Döpfer says, “professionalised” Russian retail set-ups. According to Döpfer, up until the economic crisis hit Russia in 2009, Russians spent an average of more than 15 per cent of disposable income on clothing and footwear, particularly in the boom years between 2004 and 2007. While that spend has now dropped, it still accounts for around 10 per cent, which is nevertheless impressive, considering that countries such as Germany, for instance, spend little more than five per cent on clothing. In this respect, Russia remains a rewarding

territory for fashion players. However, the Russian clothing sector is in transition yet again. While the past 10 years or so have been dominated by a strong demand for luxury goods, consumer behaviour is changing dramatically; clothing brands are no longer considered a status symbol and have been replaced by iPhones, iPads, handbags and jewellery, and a more rational, price-conscious and smarter shopper is emerging. Often Russians now hold out for sales and discounts, and prefer to buy premium and luxury clothing during their travels to foreign destinations, where they can save as much as 50 per cent on the inflated prices in their country. Furthermore, online purchases from international and national e-commerce platforms are soaring. “This new consumer behaviour in relation to clothing results from a widely spread mistrust of the Russian consumer in the ‘true value’ of clothing,” says Döpfer. “The flooding of the Russian market with counterfeited clothing brands over the past 10 years, together with highly discounted stock sales of premium and luxury brands by luxury retailers such as Mercury in 2008 and 2009, have ruined the image of brands from a general perspective. The Russian consumer of today counts first on price, quality, fibre content

DECEMBER 2013 | PROFILE | 19

FLORENTINO

and fit to body size before colour, styling and fashion content.” This may be bad news for players in the luxury and value sectors (which is mainly serviced by national operators), but it has led to an increase in mid-market players, who have seen strong growth over the last few years. “The mid-market sector has grown fast at much higher rates – double than the upper-medium, premium or luxury clothing markets,” says Döpfer. “It’s what Russian retailers call the “affordable” price segment, which has grown tremendously to take up to 60 per cent of the Russian retail market value since 2010.” CPM Moscow is the region’s main fashion trade show and was among the early players to have tapped into this trend. It is now the key meeting place for more than 1,600 collections – mainly from the mid-market sector – from 34 countries, and has seen vast growth itself since its early beginnings 10 years ago. Germany and Italy are the two biggest exhibitor countries at the show, with brands such as Steilmann, Gelco, Luisa Cerano and Tricot Chic among the established exhibitors with a significant following among Russian retailers. UK wholesale brands are yet to venture into the Russian market on a bigger scale, with this season’s edition, which took place on 4-7 September, having only attracted eight UK brands, including Marble, Shubette, Bonzai, Cottonreal, Black Indigo, Rockferry, Saville Heaton and Leathertex. According to Paul Alger, director of international business development for the UK Fashion & Textiles Association (UKFT), many British brands are put off by the notorious complexities of exporting to Russia, despite grants and support being available, and the country’s bad reputation of corruption and crime. “In reality, Russia is like any other new market, and of course there are always country specific considerations that companies who want to enter need to take into account,” he says. “However, Russia has got a far worse image than the reality, and it is something that Russia itself needs to tackle if it wants to improve its international trade.”

Marble Fashions is one of the UK exhibitors at CPM, and has been showing there for three seasons. Nick Williams, the company’s director, says that although it is not an easy territory to conquer, it is worth it in the long run. “No matter what market a brand is entering, there are always challenges,” he says. “None more so than duties and freight and of course language and legal barriers. Any company must be prepared to be in it for the long haul, ensuring that their oﬀering and customer service continues to deliver season after season. Any brand considering entering the Russian market must also realise the sheer scale and distances of travelling within the country. Moscow and St Petersburg are the two main hubs, but there are also 13 other towns with a population of one million or more to consider. It’s a huge developing market with vast undiscovered potential. Be prepared to do the groundwork, though.” And market entry into Russia is unlikely to get any less complicated in the future. Three years ago the Eurasian Customs Union (EAC) was established – a union between Russia, Belarus and Kazakhstan, with the aim of improving trade between the countries. It was the ﬁrst step to forming a broader economic collaboration of former Soviet states based on the EU model, which also includes protectionist agreements that regulate the import of apparel and textiles. From 1 July next year, new consumer safety legislation

is being implemented that sees the introduction of new safety certificates, which can only be obtained if companies seek legal entity status (register as an OOO) in one of the EAC states. These new rulings will particularly hit smaller and medium sized European brands who sell directly to retail clients in the EAC area hard, as most are yet to take the necessary steps. The same goes for fashion agencies and import distributors. Döpfer says that the majority of these players have not made provisions for the – costly – changes, though in the long run they will aid a speedier customs process as well as offer currency and tax advantages. One must not forget that multi-brand retailing is still in its infancy in Russia and the former Soviet states, which can pose its own challenges. Few boutique owners have had formal retail training, which also goes for the sales staff they employ, therefore budget planning, industry jargon and customer service, for example, are often not well developed. It can be a different way of working for many foreign labels, which is why it is so important to have local representation on the ground, to overcome cultural differences and the language barriers as well as tapping into local knowledge. “We do not advise fashion companies to come to Russia on their own, without an agent or distributor,” says Christian Kasch, CPM’s project director, which is why the show has established a match-making function on its website, where it brings together foreign labels with suitable local agents and distributors. That said, the Russian clothing sector is still growing at around 8-10 per cent in nominal terms. And, while Moscow and St Petersburg are heavily saturated markets, growth is still to be had from the regional provinces, particularly the “12 first-tier Russian provincial cities and from a larger number of second tier cities and towns,” says Döpfer. Further momentum comes from an increasingly casual way of dressing, with Russians ditching the formal and often ostentatious dress codes of the past in favour of a more relaxed and laid-back style. This is primarily driven by the arrival of (premium) denim brands, which have made it acceptable to wear jeans for work and play. This has fuelled the creation of a smart casual segment in the market for the first time, and it is expected that the denim sector will increase its market share in Russia by up to 40 per cent over the next five years. Russia may be a challenging market, but it undoubtedly still presents huge opportunities for brands who invest in a proper set-up and infrastructure. “It is still a gold mine for foreign companies that have optimised their supply chain management,” says Döpfer. And, for many labels yet to make the move into Russia, it may be an investment well worth making.

CPM AT A GLANCE • CPM – Collection Premiere Moscow – was established in September 2003, and is organised by German trade event specialist Igedo • The show takes place at the Expocentre fairground in the heart of Moscow • The event covers womenswear, menswear, kidswear, lingerie and bodywear, and hosts a premium hall and denim area, Fashion & Denim • The last edition attracted more than 1,600 collections from 34 countries, covering an extended exhibition space of 58,000 sq m • Around 19,500 trade visitors attended the four-day event • The next edition will take place on 25-28 February 2014 www.cpm-moscow.com www.ukft.com

DECEMBER 2013 | INTERVIEW | 20

intervieW

michele malenotti the malenotti family will no doubt be better known for its tenure as the owner of Belstaﬀ – taking an old British brand to new fashion heights and selling it in 2011. matchless is the oldest British motorcycle label, and it acquired the trademark in 2012 with the aim to make new garments inspired by archive pieces. Kate moss, no less, fronted the brand’s a/w 13 ad campaign. tom Bottomley gets the master plan from michele malenotti. tom Bottomley: What attracted you to acquire the trademark for matchless? Michele Malenotti: It is the oldest British motorcycle company. In 1939 it was the biggest worldwide – until is started having problems in the 50s, as the car was becoming more popular. I think production ceased around 1959-1960. The brand hasn’t existed since. We bought the trademark last year, and we would like to establish the label worldwide again and make it one of the British icons. — tB: how do you aim to achieve that? MM: We are firstly working on the image of the brand, so we have built a clothing collection around the Matchless archive. It didn’t just make motorcycles, the brand experimented with leather and motorcycle apparel. The Collier family, which founded Matchless, was very innovative. Like us, it was a father and two sons. The father was the engineer and the soul of the company, but the brothers developed the business and took it to new areas. So it’s very close to our story as a family. My father, Franco, represents the soul of the company, while my brother, Manuele, and I work with patience to make the company better with innovative marketing and strategy. —

marKeting and Business expansion director matchless

DECEMBER 2013 | INTERVIEW | 21

TB: What’s the family background with Belstaff? MM: We worked with Belstaff since 1996 as a distributor and worldwide licensee. By 2004 it had got very big, and we ended up buying the company – opening the first store on London’s Conduit Street in 2005. The real globalisation started when we acquired the brand. We sold it two years ago. I think we achieved the best we could – at one point manufacturing up to one million pieces a year. To take it to a different level would have been another story. We’d had enough and decided to sell the company, but came out of it well. It’s nothing to do with us anymore. I think Belstaff now wants to be a luxury brand, while Matchless wants to be an urban label with product that stands the test of time. A jacket you can pass down to your son, for instance, is the sort of quality we are talking about. — TB: Do you see comparisons between Belstaff and Matchless? MM: No – I think Matchless is a totally different project. Belstaff was a motorcycle jacket, but the four-pocket jacket is not exclusive to Belstaff, because Barbour and others have made similar, and we have our version. Matchless represents British spirit and heritage for many years. It was popular in every country. It’s much more the world of Harley Davidson and part of the Matchless lifestyle. First of all I like the product but, secondly, I like the world it represents. It fits with my identity. We have some important bestsellers such as the leather Kensington blouson, some of which have sold out around the world. The consumer seems to like what we’re doing, and we supply vintage motorcycles for instore and window displays wherever we can in order to get across the message of authenticity and help our retail partners establish real interest in the brand. — TB: How would you best describe the Matchless offer now? MM: It’s about authenticity, quality and performance. We’ve taken many details from old Matchless pieces. At the moment it’s 100 per cent made in Italy, which represents good quality, and the designs and fits of the jackets give a real reason to buy. We also believe it’s exclusive product, because there is nothing like Matchless

in the world today. We have different categories. They asked for it, and we gave them it. There is a nylon category that retails for under — £500. There’s a technically coated cotton TB: How important is the celebrity category for around £500, the down collection endorsement? which is around £700 and, for £900, the leather MM: I think with the world we live in today, it’s very mixed with wool – but waterproof – outerwear. important. But the social networking and internet The leather range retails for over £1,000. And we bubble have changed the rules. The online world are also doing footwear and accessories. There requires a different strategy to the offline world, are so many opportunities for the brand, and we and you have to be careful about how you may look at collaborations with other designers approach them both. We have 20-year-old going forward. customers as well as 60 year-old customers, and — how you reach them is different. TB: Was the autumn men’s and women’s launch — in Selfridges an exclusive to the store? TB: You also used the famous image of Marlon MM: No – we started out with 25 customers in the Brando astride his Matchless motorcycle in the UK, one in every big city. Philip Browne, Badger, 1953 cult film The Wild One in your recent Pilot and Aspecto are good examples. advertising. How did that come about? — MM: We have acquired an exclusive licence deal TB: How old is the Matchless company? for Marlon Brando merchandise worldwide. MM: Henry Herbert Collier founded a company Basically, the Marlon Brando trademark is licensed to make bicycles under the Matchless name in to Matchless, so we will present our Marlon London’s Plumstead in 1878, but the first Brando collection soon. Belstaff did it with Steve motorcycle was made in 1899. All motorcycles McQueen five or six years before Barbour, were marked by a winged M on the tank. We are and I set that up personally. Nobody has made counting 1899 as the real founding year, so 2014 anything using the Brando name before, so it’s an will be its 115th anniversary, and we will be really exclusive project. We don’t want to just make the focused on the second half of the year. We will clothing; we want to build the bike – a limitedopen the first flagship in London. We have a edition motorcycle collection based on that franchise store in Sylt in Germany, but the London famous picture. shop will be the first wholly owned. — — TB: So you’re going into manufacturing TB: Was getting Kate Moss on board for your motorcycles, too? a/w 13 campaign important to attract customers MM: Normally, the process is you make the bike, and give the right profile to the brand? then the clothing, such as Triumph, Harley MM: Kate Moss was certainly part of the process Davidson, Ducati and so on. We’ve relaunched to represent our identity to the consumer. the brand with clothing first, but we will make She’s British, very sexy and beautiful, but she bikes – in the UK, too. We already have the first also has interest in the prototype. One line will be motorcycle world and looks “It’s about authenticity, limited edition, and another great in our product. will be much more commercial quality and — – two different ways of TB: Who is the male approaching consumers. That performance. We’ve equivalent? is the master plan. But it’s taken many details MM: There is really no male easier to sell a jacket than it is equivalent to Kate Moss! to build a motorcycle. We from old Matchless We have good testimonials in like the motorcycle world, pieces. At the moment and we are putting all our that high-profile actors such as Bradley Cooper, Gerard knowledge and it’s 100 per cent made in energy, Butler and Brad Pitt wear our passion into making it a Italy, which represents worldwide success. product in their private lives.

good quality, and the designs and fits of the jackets give a real reason to buy”

DECEMBER 2013 | GENT | CONTENTS | 23

G E N T

KISS ME QUICK Accessories label Jane Carr draws its inspiration from a striking moment in time this season – the clash of the Mods and Rockers on Brighton promenade in May 1964. Central to the spring/summer 2014 collection is the brand’s take on the Brighton seaside, as well as prints and doodles. The range features pocket squares, neckerchiefs, large pure silk twill squares and stoles, with key motifs including an intricate design of ropes and anchors, seabirds and vinyl records, while further interest comes from snakeskin and camouflage, giving a definite nod to the Rockers. The brand’s capsule cashmere collection, meanwhile, adds a hint of luxury, hand-loomed in Nepal with five styles created from the finest yarns. www.jane-carr.com —

Product news

21st century 39 Club

Panorama

Rounding up the key stories this month

In-season

Pitti Uomo

Rich pickings The ﬁrst look at what Florence has to oﬀer next month

MWB catches up with the new driving force behind The 39 Club Discovering what the latest Berlin trade show has in store for a/w 14

DECEMBER 2013 | GENT | PRODUCT | 24

RADAR

PRODUCT NEWS

Spotlighting style.

Inside menswear.

AU T HE NT I C ALLY F I NI SHE D German trouser specialist Atelier Gardeur presents a ﬂash line of authentically ﬁnished men’s jeans – Heritage Denim Stretch. Featuring coarse stitching and contrasting seams, the jeans will be available in an authentic wash for spring/summer 2014. Manufacturing both men’s and women’s trousers, the brand currently supplies 3,000 doors in 50 countries worldwide. In-house designers, pattern-makers, tailors and laundry engineers in Germany and Tunisia follow every single development step of a Gardeur pair of trousers, ensuring quality is maintained throughout. —

MArk GIuSTI ESTABLISHED: 2009 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Handcrafted bags and leather accessories entirely handmade using the finest Italian craftsmanship and lined with original fabrics based on mosaics and architecture from the Byzantine era. — HISTORY: Founded by Lebanese-born and London-based designer Mark Farhat, the accessories label has developed a cult following, including its nomination earlier this year for the UKFT Accessories Brand of the Year award. Following on from its successful showcase at the summer editions of Pitti uomo and Parisian trade show Tranoi Homme, Mark Giusti launches its Deep Blue Sea collection. Inspired by the colours of the Mediterranean Sea, which links Morocco to Spain, the range includes a mix of casual and classic styles such as weekend bags, business bags and small leather goods. A new addition to the core range is the scarf category, a capsule collection dominated by various shades of blue, navy and turquoise. Meanwhile, the primary leather for the Deep Blue Sea collection is grained saffiano calf, teamed with several new materials such as stingray, eel and a sandy coloured linen and viscose. For the first time, designer Farhat has used an organic hemp and ramie mix for the linings of each bag, further cementing his dedication for ethics and sustainability. With stockists across the uk, including Wolf & Badger and The Savoy Hotel, as well as Asia and Europe, the brand has been dubbed “the Savile row of bags”. Catering for the premium market, the brand offers an exclusive bespoke sub-line – My M/G – which allows the Mark Giusti customer to create their own design, choosing from a range of mosaic patterned lining, various leathers, colours and bag silhouettes. www.markgiusti.com —

A M O DE R N U R BANI T E Cinque presents an autumn/winter collection that is a blend of heritage, grunge and luxury, with highlights including long cardigans teamed with narrow denims, alongside casual jerseys, loop scarves and beanie hats. In terms of outerwear, it is clear to see the brand has put a strong focus on the ﬁner details this season, with a washed parka in rugged cotton featuring contrasting lining, while an animal-print jacquard lines the collection’s causal wool trench. Leather elbow patches, meanwhile, are found on tuxedo jackets, and robust full-leather jackets are presented in a quilted blouson and biker shapes with printed jersey lining. —

DECEMBER 2013 | GENT | PRODUCT | 25

on TrenD Seasonal extras: Leather card cases

C R AF T E D EVO LU T I O N An early look into Camel Active’s autumn/winter 2014 collection reveals its main focus for the new season – quality of fabric – which is found at the core of the collection, its underwear offer. The brand’s underwear collection, sold alongside the apparel range, includes a series of styles including the CA 20 comfortable-cut pants with the elasticated waistband in a mix of pure, extra-fine cotton with elastane. The CA 11 cotton boxer shorts, meanwhile, are made from a fine, yarn-dyed cotton, and will become available in a new dark blue and red colour mix. The collection as a whole has been designed to coordinate seamlessly with the new season’s menswear offering. —

1: PAUL SMITH price on request 020 7257 8690 2: WANT LES ESSENTIELS DE LA VIE price on request info@wantessentiels.com 3: TUMI price on request 020 8731 3500 4: TOURNE DE TRANSMISSION £37.50 020 7613 5551 5: SIMON CARTER £18 020 8683 4475

BRAND TO WATCH

kiliAn kerner An established name within the premium fashion market, Kilian Kerner’s spring/summer 2014 collection is one of his strongest to date, blending commercial designs with an alternative twist. With a standalone store in Berlin and stockists across 12 countries worldwide, including Fenwick and House of Fraser in the Uk, the brand is regularly seen on models, actors and musicians in his native Germany. in terms of the latest collection, there are two definitive splits between colour palettes – the first being a series of pastel hues, the second being a blend of navy, grey and black. From relaxed chino silhouettes in lemon yellow, through to crisp tailored single-breasted blazers, the brand’s spring/summer 2014 offering caters for both casual and smarter occasions. key pieces include graphic-print crew-neck sweats, pastel-toned hooded tops, longerlength tailored shorts and a rounded shoulder lightweight parka. January, meanwhile, will see the brand’s second collaboration with nike iD on a series of trainers, as well as the development of a range of phone cases. www.kiliankerner.de —

ESTABLISHED: 2004 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Born in Cologne, designer Kinian Kerner studied drama between 2000 and 2003, before launching his high-end eponymous label. — HISTORY: Kerner describes his signature style as clean, modern and sophisticated – the key is in the detail.

DECEMBER 2013 | GENT | PRODUCT | 26

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RICH PICKINGS Burnt shades and classic autumnal hues make their way to the forefront of this season’s colour palette, while varying textural mixes and slimmer silhouettes keep the trend looking anything but traditional. —

SAMSOE & SAMSOE £26.50 07903 583879

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WOLSEY £54 020 7292 7400

DECEMBER 2013 | GENT | PREVIEW | 28

PITTI UOMO The 85th edition of Pitti Uomo will see the global relaunch of historic US outerwear brand Spiewak, now under new ownership, with a capsule Golden Fleece line entirely made in the US. Details are limited for now, but it’s sure to be a “must see” in the Fortezza da Basso. The theme for this season’s show is Rock Me Pitti, highlighting the strong links between music and fashion. Here are some other highlights to expect in January. —

 J O HNSTO NS O F E LGI N Back at Pitti with a vengeance, and after a shaky business year in 2012, Johnstons of Elgin is widening its product offer and raising its profile. Why not, indeed, for such a long-standing heritage brand? Colour blocking leads the way as a key trend for a/w 14. Taking inspiration from the fragmented detailing in this season’s new tailoring, knitwear is grounded and refined. Fine-gauge, lightweight pieces are close-fitting, with a streamlined silhouette and shoulder and side-seam panels in contrasting colours. The combination of solid and mélange shades showcases a more subdued and sophisticated effect for a tailored mood. Alternative details, such as rib panel and elbow patches, dramatically alter the way garments look and feel. Traditional button-through and half-zip turtlenecks are practical pieces, with horn and leather details to complete the look. —

 DI E SE L BL AC K GO LD

AT E LI E R SC OTC H Scotch & Soda is apparently putting big investment into its new premium tailoring collection, and it aims to make a big impression at the show with an impressive standalone stand, which beﬁts the launch to buyers from around the globe. Emphasis is placed on quality fabrics and ﬁts and, while the aim of the Amsterdam brand is to target higher-end stores, there is still an element of commerciality about it. The focus will be on suits, blazers and shirts, while also including outerwear, knitwear and accessories. Suits will retail at £399-£599, shirts £100-£150, outerwear £350-£450 and knitwear £100-£200. It could certainly take the brand to new heights, with a dedicated and specialised design team working on 250 SKUs. Nothing has been photographed as yet, with the brand wanting to keep the surprise factor alive until Pitti Uomo. —

The premium Diesel line has appointed Andreas Melbostad as its creative director for menswear, following his rave reviews for the womenswear lines. The Norwegian fashion designer began his career with Nicole Farhi in London before relocating to Paris, where he teamed up with Alber Elbaz on the Guy Laroche and YSL Rive Gauche collections. He also worked in New York for Donna Karan and Calvin Klein. Melbostad is the menswear guest designer for Pitti this season, with a show that should be a hot ticket. “The arrival of Andreas Melbostad as the creative director of Diesel Black Gold gave the women’s range a considerable boost,” says Raﬀaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine. “As soon as we heard he would be working on the men’s side, we suggested Diesel Black Gold make its debut in Florence as the menswear guest of Pitti Uomo in January 2014. We have admired Melbostad’s talent for many years.” —

DECEMBER 2013 | GENT | PREVIEW | 29

 GLOVE RALL With autumn/winter no doubt Gloverall’s strength when it comes to product, it will be interesting to see what former Burberry Prorsum designer Mark Van Beek does with his first autumn/winter collection, after getting such favourable reviews for his spring/summer 2013 range. Statement pieces are key, and the collection is set to include a painted aviator print cotton duffle with quilted liner, as well as a down-filled parka. The introduction of versatile cotton garments will add a new area, together with a strengthening of non-outerwear products to widen the brand’s appeal. Autumn/winter 2014 sees inspiration taken from Gloverall’s social and cultural association – a feature of seeing Gloverall coats worn on art students and Beatniks in the 60s. There is a sense of attitude within the collection with a mixture of great clean-looking coats and duffle coats in diverse patterns and textures – worn with chunky knitwear. A special capsule line labelled Gloverall To The North will present an Arctic down-filled duffle parka, a two-in-one duffle coat with detachable quilted liner and a wool lined padded army parka. It all sounds very wearable. A more concentrated move into classic premium stores is also on the brand’s agenda going forward. —

 BAR AC U TA BLU E L ABE L Continuing its mission to drive innovation into the heritage British brand, WP Lavori has appointed Jeff Griffin to head up the designs for Baracuta’s premium Blue Label, showcasing on the WP Lavori stand at Pitti for autumn/winter 2014. Knowing Griffin’s previous works, there’s bound to be a nod to military detailing, as well as some interesting fabrics and a “mix-up” of styling. The line is manufactured in Britain and is the brand’s most “out there” premium offer, driving a new and more diverse customer base. Jeff Griffin’s eponymous line, Griffin, was established in 1994, and became world renowned for creating ground-breaking garments and collaborating with some of the biggest artists and bands worldwide. No better chap then, perhaps, to take over the design reins from Kenichi Kusano (formerly of Beams+) for the Baracuta Blue Label collection. —

 TO DD SNYDE R + C HAM PI O N New York designer Todd Snyder and iconic US sportswear brand Champion first collaborated on a men’s sportswear line for autumn/winter 2013 in the US, and have now joined forces once again for the international launch for autumn/winter 2014. It’s inspired by archive Champion pieces and old photographs from the New York Athletic Club. As is the case for many kids in America, Champion provided the uniform for Snyder’s “gym class” days, but it’s really the early 80s’ reverse weave sweatshirts and cotton coach’s jackets – worn with Levi’s and Red Wing boots – that capture his fondness for the brand. “For me, Champion always symbolised quality and classic American style,” says Snyder, who designed the collection in partnership with Champion’s chief design officer, Ned Munroe. Together, they scoured Champion’s archive of sales catalogues and vintage samples to find styles and fabrics that would fit with Snyder’s love of classic American tailoring. —

DECEMBER 2013 | PITTI UOMO | PROMOTION | 30

pitti Uomo 7-10 January 2014 Fortezza da Basso, Florence www.pittimmagine.com as another season falls upon us, italian trade exhibition pitti Uomo kick-starts the international buying calendar by presenting the latest a/w 14 collections from some of the ﬁnest names in premium apparel, accessories and footwear. — Special GUeSt

pitti Uomo is renowned for its constant reinvention, and its 85th edition is no different, redrawing the map of the fair with a raft of both established and emerging talent in men’s fashion. the first of the international shows in the a/w 14 buying calendar, pitti Uomo will play host to over 1,000 brands and 30,000 visitors. With a determined focus on internationality, 40 per cent of exhibitors for the forthcoming January edition will arrive from over 30 countries, while international visitor figures are expected to reach over 7,000. The 85th edition of Pitti Uomo will see the Fortezza da Basso take on the theme of Rock Me Pitti – asking, “How much music is there in fashion?” During the show there will be a number of performances and installations, images and cult objects related to the world of music, designed and curated by Oliviero Baldini. Meanwhile, in cooperation with MercedesBenz Kiev Fashion Days, Pitti Uomo will welcome emerging market Ukraine as its Guest Nation, while a number of labels are set to use the exhibition as the platform on which to unveil their unseen-until-now brand developments and expansions. This includes Brunello Cucunelli, which is expanding its headquarters on the lower level on the Main Pavilion for the presentation of its complete collection of suits. Dutch denim label Scotch & Soda, meanwhile, has picked the striking location of the Sala dell’Orologio to present the preview of the eclectic couture collection Atelier Scotch. Another label to unveil its latest development is WP Lavori in Corso, which will showcase the preview of its new Baracuta Blue Label Collection, created by English designer Jeff Griffin. Returning to the grounds of Fortezza da Basso, G-Star will present its Denim Selvedge and Raw Denim collections at the Teatrino Lorenese, and will launch a new retail concept for a/w 14.

Finally, the European preview of the capsule collection by US designer Todd Snyder and iconic sportswear brand Champion is certain to get buyers talking.

Special projectS No.21, the elegant line designed by Alessandro Dell’Acqua, has chosen this season’s Pitti Uomo for the international debut of its men’s collection, which will culminate in an exclusive event on the evening of 9 January. Alternative Set – the calendar of pop-up events and installations by a selected number of designers – returns for another season, welcoming names including Art Comes First, L’F, Lvchino, Serdar Uzuntas, Tigran Avetisyan and Todd Snyder x Champion. Super Duper Hats, an eclectic hat collection, and footwear label Casamadre will present their a/w 14 collections following last season’s accolade of the Who Is On Next? Uomo award. I Play returns for another season, ﬁrmly establishing its presence at the show, presenting a crossover style that bonds urban lifestyles with the tech clothes of real sports – including heritage versions – in a new and creative manner. The result is a generation of metro outﬁts that absorb ideas from other “worlds”. Exhibitors include Ben Sherman, Colmar Originals, Ecoalf, Fred Perry, Herschel, Pony, Supremebeing and Veja. Dubbed as a “fair within a fair”, Futuro Maschile is one of the most successful areas within Pitti Uomo, showcasing the most advanced looks in formalwear. Situated in Sala delle Nazioni, brands to be found in January include Orlebar Brown, Tonello, Alden USA, Mr Hare, Jupe by Jackie and Haversack. The Sala Alfa on the lower level of the Main Pavilion will host one-of-a-kind items in the Make section of the show, and will feature names such as Bonastre, Galet, Tibi Tie and Title of Work.

Andreas Melbostad, creative director of Diesel Black Gold, will be the guest designer at the forthcoming edition of Pitti Uomo. Presenting his ﬁrst line for the Diesel Black Gold menswear collection, Melbostad will host a fashion show on 8 January at Florence’s Stazione Leopolda. “We have admired Melbostad’s talent for many years,” says Raﬀaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine. “We are curious to see what he will create for the Florentine scene, especially because the next edition of the fair will have a very ‘musical’ inspiration. Considering Melbostard’s last statements, we imagine that the Diesel Black Gold man will continue to be inspired by rock, combining it with a cosmopolitan feel and a sartorial approach that is both fashionable and functional – the mark of Pitti Uomo.”

e-pitti Pitti Uomo continues online at e-Pitti.com for a whole month after the fair itself closes. A/w 14 trends will be available to certified users, with more than 50,000 images and 1,000 videos of products completely in high definition. Every season, e-Pitti confirms itself as an important tool, booming among all the industry experts, endorsed by the significant visits that have been registered from countries such as India, China and Russia.

How to Get tHere Visitors can reach Florence airport with regular flights from London. But, for most UK visitors, the easiest option is a flight to Pisa, followed by a short train journey from Pisa airport with direct connections to Florence. Alternatively, there are regular flights from London to Bologna, an hour’s drive from Florence.

DECEMBER 2013 | GENT | PROFILE | 32

21ST CENTURY 39 CLUB Despite modern technology and the growing surge of online shopping, we love a bit of tradition in the menswear business. That’s why The 39 Club, originally set up in 1956 by West End agents to meet up and “talk shop”, is fondly thought of. But new chairman elect Merc’s Andy Tompsett has plans afoot to give the old boys’ network new life, writes Tom Bottomley. —

Merc’s head of UK, Andy Tompsett, has been invited to become the new chairman of menswear old boys’ brigade The 39 Club. With many members long since retired, and an army of agents working predominantly in London’s West End a distant memory with the demise of so many independents over the years, you may think he’s flogging a dead horse. But the December meeting may be the start of something to give The 39 Club some new life, with a few unexpected industry faces invited to Mayfair’s Coach & Horses – the monthly meeting point, to give their views, and hear those of others, over a pint and a pie. It’s a tradition that doesn’t have to apply only to the old school, after all. One such unexpected face was Farah’s

commercial director, Mark McCann, who hit the nail on the head when giving a comparison to his father’s old boxing club. He says, “He was a member of the Former Boxers Association of Liverpool, and he was very fond of it. “It had a mixed membership due to the natural process of new members constantly joining,” he continues. “Obviously as boxers finished their career, regardless of the level, there was always rejuvenation and difference of opinion and ideals. There’s no reason why a meeting of minds such as The 39 Club should be any different, regardless of people’s ages and levels in the business. There are always new stories to tell, as well as great old stories to hear, and you never know when you might learn something that

beneﬁts your own business and career.” Another invited guest, Michael Benjamin, chairman of Spook International, which handles production in the Far East for some major highstreet players and brands, thinks that there are plenty of people out there – with years of experience – who have voices that could beneﬁt The 39 Club. He says, “I’m talking about guys who are established and have been in the business for quite a long time. The business has changed, and certainly the agency business has changed compared to what it was. There are very few people employed by companies now to sell, so most of them are agencies. I’m talking about those people that represent the better brands, not the bottom end of the market. People get together

DECEMBER 2013 | GENT | PROFILE | 33

anyway at shows and talk to each other and phone each other to share information – so The 39 Club can quite easily be an extension of that. It’s good to talk, as they say.” Andy Tompsett, whose father Trevor joined the club in 1970 (and Andy still has his letter asking for acceptance, such was the prestige of being a member back in the day), is keen to give it new meaning to be part of such a group. He says, “As chairman elect, I intend to take it into the 21st century to increase the relevance of The 39 Club on the international stage. “This means increasing the membership with more members from the trade who represent significant brands, also building a 39 Club historical and current news up-to-date website,” he continues. “The 39 Club now has a Twitter moniker too – @The39Club – to further make it ‘the club’ to be in if you are in the menswear supply business.” Tompsett also wants to make the club a first port of call for any foreign brand seeking UK representation. “The plan is that they can come to The 39 Club for advice and a connection, and that would be of great significance. I believe The 39 Club should have a significant voice as the respected trade body for the menswear trade in the UK. There isn’t really much else out there, is there?” Aside from such grand ambitions to be a major voice for the UK’s menswear industry, at the heart of The 39 Club’s longevity is a great camaraderie that has spanned the generations. Hooking up for a decent supper, a few drinks and a good old chinwag about what brands might be looking to enter the UK and are in need of representation, or what shops aren’t paying up, or what jobs may be on the horizon, or even what suppliers to turn to for specific product to be made – at home or abroad, can only be of benefit. Tompsett is not fazed by the need to bring in fresh blood, however. He says, “With a generally aged membership, with many valued but retired

“I believe The 39 Club should have a significant voice as the respected trade body for the menswear trade in the UK. There isn’t really much else out there, is there?” members, the actual ‘trade talk’ of the club has greatly diminished. But the club stands for the getting together of like-minded characters who supply the men’s retail trade. It’s not just new male members we are looking at bringing in, because there are plenty of females working in the menswear business these days – and that could spice the meetings up!” The club still holds the popular March Spring Lunch at the Overseas Club in St James’s, which kicks off the social year at the end of the winter selling season. There are also the golf tournaments, and the chairman’s “fun day out” which, last year, took in a drag show in the East End, which was apparently a blast. Perhaps the less said of that one the better. But it highlights the social side of being a member, and the laughs that are had (even when business may be dire). And a by-product of it is that, over the years, The 39 Club has collected more than £100k for various chosen charities, an admirable feat indeed. “The benefits of being a member are not to be sniffed at,” says Tompsett. “Why not go somewhere you’re known and valued, and where you can hear the latest update on all relevant trade news and gossip, discuss financial issues of retail companies and be on the trade inside track of this sort of knowledge, aside from a fun social calendar? The 39 Club stands for the meeting of minds as a menswear trade association.

Professional like-minded colleagues sharing confidential industry information and opinions, while also enjoying trade anecdotes over a drink or two.” Tompsett certainly has his sales pitch sorted out if he is to entice new members to – as he says – “breathe new life into some old blogs.” Nicely put. The 39 Club was originally set up in 1956, though its origins could be traced back to 1939 (hence the club’s name) as the original members left for the war. It was true camaraderie in the aftermath of the war as people came back into the menswear business to rebuild it, much like London itself after the Blitz. But it took them until 1956 to make their meeting up more official. “The reps and agents would bump into each other in the buying offices across the West End and would exchange stories and information which helped each other,” says Tompsett. “So it was decided to form a club with a base to once a month meet up and discuss the business and share information about the retail trade confidentially as members. The membership was limited to 39 members. There used to be a long waiting list, and you had to be invited to join.” Currently, there are just 22 members, though extending the honorary membership rules may be one way of widening the net. So, once again, the 39 can ride again, albeit through a new group of young (or at least not quite so old) menswear guns.

DECEMBER 2013 | GENT | PREVIEW | 34

PANORAMA 14-16 January Berlin ExpoCentre Airport

Returning for its third edition, Panorama brings together contemporary international brands in men’s and womenswear, spread over 21,000 sq m of surface area in the purpose-built exhibition centre, Berlin ExpoCentre Airport. —

OLYMP

The show is divided into three main halls, with Hall A hosting the Young and Urban Universe, including brands such as Sand, La Fee Maraboutee, Turnover, Yaya, Vanzetti and Dept. Hall B is home to the Best of Contemporary Fashion, with labels including Sportalm, Mac, Olymp, Roy Robson, Pierre Cardin and Daniel Hechter presenting their latest collections. Hall C, meanwhile, is dedicated to Casual Creativity, with the likes of Camp David, Arqueonautas, Wellensteyn, Garcia and MOD making up the lineup. New for this season is the addition of two sections, which are set to enhance the visitor and brand experience further. Hall D, with another 6,000 sq m of exhibition space, has been added, and will house The Mall, a new section dedicated to showcasing fashion franchise concepts, such as standalone stores or shop in shop solutions. The area has been created in response to the ever-increasing trend of brands’ own retail

launches. Exhibiting labels will be able to present not only their collections, but also their whole store concept and brand experience, with big names such as Marc Cain, Gaudi, Liu Jo, Stefanel, Sandwich, Oui, Repeat, Laurel, Capelli NY and Gelco among the labels that have signed up. Furthermore, a/w 14 sees the launch of L’Hotel, a boutique environment based on a luxury hotel experience, dedicated to smaller and more specialised fashion, footwear and accessories collections. Located in Hall A, L’Hotel will imitate the look of a grand hotel lobby while also openplan and luxurious. In addition to the lobby with the central Panorama Bar, there will also be showroom-like spaces available, known as The Suite, creating a more intimate atmosphere. Stretching over 3,000 sq m, the area features brands such as C’lou, Elfenhaut, Latini Leder, Levinski Fur, My Wallit, Orobianco, Piu Piu, Prima Base, Roberta Gandolfi and Rossana Diva. —

OPENING HOURS: Tuesday 14 January 9am – 6pm Wednesday 15 January 9am – 6pm Thursday 16 January 9am – 6pm

REGISTRATION: Visitors can register free of charge at www.panorama-berlin.com.

Professional Steamers

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DECEMBER 2013 | DENIM & STREET | CONTENTS | 37

D E N I M

S T R E E T

EYEING UP THE TALENT Born in Stockholm, eyewear specialist Monokle is set to make its debut into the UK market for spring/summer 2014 with a collection of handcrafted sunglasses. Living up to the Scandinavian reputation for high-quality and conceptual design, the brand prides itself on using traditional methods of production to ensure endurance and durability in its frames. A ﬁrm favourite among the skate, snowboard and BMX community, Monokle draws its inspiration from the timeless styles of 60s and 70s music, youth culture and urban sports – driving the label forward as a credible brand among its market competitors. Current projects include collaborating with the highly acclaimed Random Bastards collective, famed worldwide for its skate and snowboard ﬁlm productions. —

Product news

Bread & Butter

Exhibition calendar

Rounding up the key stories this month

In-season

These boots are made for talking

Cool runnings American footwear brand Red Wing’s latest retail venture

The key brands to catch this January in urban, sports and streetwear MWB’s comprehensive guide to the a/w 14 buying season

DECEMBER 2013 | DENIM & STREET | PRODUCT | 38

product news Inside menswear.

F LYI NG F O RWAR D

BAC K TO BRU T U S After the successful revival of its iconic Trimﬁt shirt last season, Brutus is relaunching the very thing that shot the brand to fame 40 years ago – denim. Staying true to its heritage, the brand will deliver a capsule denim collection to work seamlessly with its 20-strong new tartan checked shirts, inspired by its 70s archive pieces. With pioneering new techniques in denim production, Brutus was the ﬁrst UK brand to buy Japanese denim and produce selvedge. —

Originally designed in 1920 as a shoe for practising T’ai Chi, footwear label Feiyue underwent a reinvention in 2006 and is now looking to drive forward its presence in the UK market with the appointment of Sane Communications. Sane will not only deal with the brand’s PR, but it will also manage potential collaborations, following on from the brand’s success with Parisian label Celine back in 2009, which saw it create a capsule collection of premium trainers. For the new season, Feiyue, which translates to “ﬂying forward”, presents a collection of signature lightweight canvas shoes. New additions include the Lo which is formed from chambray; the Neon with bold yellow and pink detailing; and the Medal, a style with metallic branding and faux suede panels. —

brand to watch

U NLO C K T HE QUAY Australian labels have been enjoying success in the UK market of late, and Quay Eyeware is no different. Founded in 2004 in Melbourne by husband-and-wife design team Allen and Linda Hammond, the brand has enjoyed a number of seasons at Bread & Butter Berlin, with the aim of cementing its presence in the British sunglasses market since launching internationally four years ago. Born from the design duo’s love for the festival circuit, Quay continues to offer bold designs in a carnival of colours, still with an affordable price tag. —

TOURNE dE TRANSMiSSiON Founded by designer Graeme Gaughan in 2011, tourne de transmission has developed from a t-shirt line featuring vintage images to a complete casualwear offer including apparel, accessories, bags and footwear. drawing inspiration from the art world, social commentary, vintage books and photography, the brand is designed for the switched-on consumer, who are, as Gaughan explains, “Very brand-aware and plugged into social media and blogs – they don’t believe in buying into high-street products and want considered credible products by labels they respect.” With celebrity fans including model-of-the-moment Cara delevingne, Ellie Goulding and Michael Fassbender, it’s no surprise the new season sees the brand expanding into a larger, more complete collection. “it will feel like natural progression and refined but without sacrificing any of the energy and qualities Tourne de Transmission has become known for,” says Gaughan. it is not just the UK where the brand is making its mark, although its portfolio of British retail doors include some of the best in the country including Hypebeast, Style Creep, Concept by Cruise and The Allotment Store. international retailers, meanwhile, include 10th Shop in China, SOTO in Germany and i.T Apparels in Hong Kong. www.tournedetransmission.com

DECEMBER 2013 | DENIM & STREET | PRODUCT | 39

ON TREND

RADAR

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VA-GARMENTS ESTABLISHED: 2009 — HISTORY: Created in the heart of South-East London by co-founders Vidal Bull and Alan Adewale, VA-Garments caters for both the men’s and womenswear markets. — SIGNATURE STYLE: The brand is characteristically recognised for its creative designs – block geometric shapes, juxtaposing primary and secondary colour combinations.

Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale

ESTABLISHED: 2011 — HISTORY: Starting as a T-shirt label, using hand sourced vintage newspaper images, the brand has since developed into a full premium casualwear oﬀer with a strong directional focus. — SIGNATURE STYLE: A stark monochrome palette fusing experimental hand-worked prints with progressive silhouettes. —

Prior to launching VA-Garments, co-founders Vidal Bull and Alan Adewale’s main aim was to create a brand that could change perceptions and break barriers of what the current youth market is looking for in terms of fashion. Recognised for its signature geometric shapes and vivid colour combinations, attention to detail is key, with experimental cuts and construction giving a fresh and innovative alternative to standard menswear garments. The collection ranges from sweats and T-shirts to the more experimental tailored garments including trousers, jackets and fleeces. Stockists currently include Boxpark, Asos Marketplace and London independent retailer YOSQI. A range of urban music and TV stars have been spotted in VA-Garments since its inception such as Plan B, Trey Songz and Rickie Haywood to name a few. Despite its directional design, prices are competitive in the current market, with tailormade pieces retailing from £30 to £450. www.va-gltd.com

DECEMBER 2013 | DENIM & STREET | PRODUCT | 40

RELIGION £30 01323 441777 BOXFRESH £31 020 8371 7554

COOL RUNNINGS More of a fashion statement than an addition to a gym bag, retro running trainers have been spotted on the feet of East London hipsters as well as city gents sporting a quirky alternative to the classic brogue. — K SWISS £27.30 01458 449300

LE COQ SPORTIF £32 020 7636 4664

DIESEL RRP £95 020 7520 7000

CROCS £22.22 0808 101 3890 PUMA £31.25 020 7299 8500

Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale

www.gucinari.co.uk

DEDICATED TO STYLE

DECEMBER 2013 | DENIM & STREET | PROFILE | 42

THESE BOOTS ARE MADE FOR TALKING Heritage US footwear brand Red Wing recently unveiled its first London store at 17 Newburgh Street. It’s been a long time coming, and tongues have been wagging and Tweets a-tweeting in eager anticipation, writes Tom Bottomley. —

It seems everybody has a Red Wing boot story – at least that’s how it came across at the recent London shop launch, which saw the stylish old-school rub shoulders with the wised-up new cool, joined in their appreciation of a landmark opening. The Red Wing shop is in collaboration with American Classics, another institution that’s been selling Red Wing boots in its Endell Street store in Covent Garden for over 17 years. It’s the latest edition to the wonderful old cobbled street (notoriously home to the plague pits of old London town buried underneath) that is Newburgh Street – happily tucked away behind the more bustling and commercial Carnaby Street. It’s termed the Newburgh Quarter to deﬁne it from other pockets of the Carnaby portfolio run by Shaftesbury PLC. But with Levi’s Vintage

Clothing long standing on the street and the addition of the first Filson shop last year, Red Wing’s opening could quite easily soon see it dubbed the American Quarter. And it would be no bad thing either, as these are proper old brands built out of good ’ol American toil and graft, and indeed play when you bring hunting, shooting and fishing in to it. Put simply, they stand for something, and Soho’s bustling community of film makers, production houses and general creatives definitely “get” what such brands are all about. A good spot for Red Wing, then. Even if you’ve had a pair of Red Wing boots for over 10 years, it’s a given that you will longingly look at a new pair, just as you admire the crispness and smell of a brand new pair of Levi’s 501s. Though, as American Classics and new Red Wing store owner Rachel Brickley Williams admits,

they’ve already had several offers for the old pairs of boots donated by friends and Red Wing fans for display purposes in the shop. They just get better with age, you see. Sitting on the corner of Newburgh Street and Ganton Street, there’s almost a village feel to the shop, despite it being in the heart of the West End. Curiosity is driving customers in despite the pretty discreet branding on the outside of the store. Williams says, “I love it because it feels like The Old Curiosity Shop. We’re very happy with the location; it’s perfect for the brand – it has the right feel to it.” Chris Dent, who has been the UK’s Red Wing agent for the last 13 years, is relishing the raising of the brand’s profile in the UK through the new shop opening. Although many would think it is the brand’s first ever UK store, Dent affirms they had a shop in Aberdeen from 2000 to 2005 supplying

DECEMBER 2013 | DENIM & STREET | PROFILE | 43

“I love it because it feels like The Old Curiosity Shop. We’re very happy with the location; it’s perfect for the brand – it just has the right feel to it”

men working on the rigs, before the work dried up, so to speak. “But this is the first lifestyle store,” he says. “The growth has been steady in the 13 years I’ve been looking after the brand. The first collection I had only consisted of around 12 pieces. Now there are more like 80 different options – including colourways.” Red Wing is currently in the process of rolling out stores across Europe. “It opened in Munich the week before we opened here,” says Dent. “It also has one in Amsterdam, one in Frankfurt for around 15 years, and one in Hamburg – all with key retailers. With the growth that’s been going in through Europe, particularly Germany, we now have momentum.” Because it’s growing naturally, Dent believes it made perfect sense to do something here as this is the second biggest market in Europe. “We’ve also found that the sales in the Red Wing stores in the other territories haven’t taken away from the existing shops selling Red Wing. So it’s a fantastic marketing tool; distribution awareness grows high and everybody has benefitted.” The Red Wing story began in 1905 when one Charles H Beckman, a German Jewish immigrant who was the sole survivor of a shipwreck off New York, started up the Red Wing Shoe Company in the quiet river town of Red Wing, Minnesota, on the banks of the Mississippi. The first boots sold for $1.75. By 1907, production reached 100 pairs a day. By 1915, however, production topped 200,000 pairs annually. World War I soldiers were issued the Red Wing no.16 boot and, by World War II, the company made over 200 different sizes and widths for the US Army alone. The company still manufactures everything

in the lifestyle collection in the US. It still has its own plants in Red Wing itself, with leather from its own tannery called S.B Foot Tanning Company. Boots are also made in Kentucky. “Made in USA is the brand’s USP,” says Dent. “When you have such great heritage dating back to 1905, you don’t want to take manufacturing outside of the US because that’s what your customers are buying into. I think Red Wing is the biggest US boot manufacturer left.” On top of the new shop, there’s also a new specialist repair service through First Class Shoe Repairs in Orpington, Kent, that is offered via the London shop. Boots are collected from the store three a week and delivered back when the job is done. A resole and recondition is £75 – well worth the spend to give your old favourites new life, especially when a new pair will cost anything between £189 and £289 these days. “It’s a good repair service using bonafide authentic American soles and mid-soles, so the integrity is maintained,” says Dent. The high-visibility white wedge sole, synonymous with Red Wing boots, originally came about because boots were made for farmers working on the prairies. Their wives would apparently get annoyed at all the mud brought into the house, so Red Wing founder Beckman came up with the white sole so that dirt and mud could be easily identified and cleaned off. “It was also a ‘low collection’ tread sole, so mud wouldn’t stick in the grooves,” says Dent. “The only sole we can’t replace with our new service is the black oil-resistant Red Wing Super Sole, which is injection-moulded and directly attached on the Classic 8804 work boot.” As anyone who has owned a pair of them will know, the soles are verging on being indestructible anyhow. Newer Red Wing styles are incorporated in to the Beckman Series, which includes leather soles imported from Italy, as well as more sartorial styles, albeit very much with a Red Wing look. It

gives the brand a fresh appeal, and further shoe styles more ﬁtting for summer are also being added. “As the range develops, we’re less dependent on the white sole product,” says Dent. “And, of course, we still have the engineering boots, which the bikers love,” he continues. “If you’re going to have a Harley and Lewis Leathers jacket, you’ve got to have a pair of Red Wing 2268s – the classic steel toe boot. Like all new Red Wing boots, you need to treat them like a new girlfriend; you have to spoil them, massage them and oil them up. Eventually you break them in and you can treat them rough! Then they start costing you a fortune because you fancy another model!” Brickley Williams may raise her eyebrow at the last statement, but she’s certainly happy that Red Wing has plenty of models in demand. “We’ve worked closely with the brand for a while, and it’s about time they had a standalone retail presence in London,” she says. “They approached us, which was great news.” It also must be said that the area in which they have chosen to open is a core heartland for the Red Wing consumer. “It took us 18 months to ﬁnd the right location,” says Williams. “But this is a great store, so we’re catching a lot of trade. Also, people just seem to like coming in and talking about the boots and the brand. One even said, ‘Where have you been all my life?’, while another guy said, ‘I’ve died and gone to heaven.’ So we really have had an amazing reaction.” Were he still around, Charles Beckman would certainly be made up that everyone is talking about his little ’ol Red Wing Shoe Company in the heart of London. And so the story continues.

ANERKJENDT

DECEMBER 2013 | DENIM & STREET | PREVIEW | 44

WEEKEND OFFENDER

TIMBERLAND

ELEVEN PARIS

ORIGINAL PENGUIN

JUNK DE LUXE

DECEMBER 2013 | DENIM & STREET | PREVIEW | 45

Bread & Butter

elvine

this season sees contemporary trade show Bread & Butter return to Berlin’s tempelhof airport, presenting a selection of brands across the denim, sports, street and casual sectors. MWB takes a look at what autumn/winter 2014 has to oﬀer. —

ANE R K J E NDT

J U NK DE LU XE

Scandinavian label Anerkjendt returns to the show this season with a range of signature designs – the focus ﬁrmly on print, yet with a clean silhouette. Highlights of the a/w 14 collection include a series of sweatshirts, with heavy washed front prints and printed sweats. Shirting, meanwhile, will see an update with a series of intricate prints in an autumnal colour palette of browns, blues, deep green, dark blue, army green, black, grey and white.

Since its acquisition by Danish fashion company Minimum earlier last year, Junk de Luxe has undergone a restructure, and will be showcasing its latest collection at the a/w 14 edition of the show. With a dedicated focus on the wholesale market for the new season, the brand has developed a more premium quality, where ﬁner detail is key. Inspiration is drawn from creativity, art, music and historical buildings, with chunky knits, leather jackets, front prints and Liberty fabrics all standing as highlights of the new range.

W E E K E ND O F F E NDE R Returning to the Berlin show for the second consecutive season, Weekend Offender will present both its Mainline and Category A collections. While the lines are different in design, both contain the brand’s signature crisp shirting and popular parka outerwear. Textured knitwear is key, with technical fleece garments featuring contrast nylon pockets and trims. A popular print throughout is paisley, seen on collars and panel detailing, while the label’s logo has been revamped for the new season in a navy and cream colour palette to create a more polished feel.

Taking inspiration from mountainous terrains, Original Penguin presents a collection worthy of any adventure. Buyers can expect selvedge ﬁve-pocket denim and indigo bombers, layered with waﬄeknit Henleys. Cotton sweatshirts contrasted with print-chested pockets and shawl-collar cardigans, meanwhile, add sophistication. Moving through the season, the collection sees two colour palettes – a rich mix of tomato, coral and plum, followed by brighter options in turquoise and crimson.

DU C K AND C OVE R

T I M BE R L AND

British label Duck and Cover does what it does best this season, using Bread & Butter as the platform to showcase its a/w 14 collection of outerwear and knits, alongside tees, denim and accessories. Drawing inspiration from ship building, oil-rig workers and welders, workwear inﬂuences can be seen throughout, with key styles including multi-pocket outerwear, MA1 models and padded jackets with detachable linings. Combi textures modernise the collection, as knitwear is teamed with melton and leather while fur hoods are partnered with rubberised trims.

The focus for Timberland this season is on versatility, bringing the great outdoors into the city. Focusing on style that is rugged, refined and, of course, sustainable, the brand’s footwear collection features weather-ready two-tone boots through to trend-led suede sneakers. Timberland’s apparel range, meanwhile, focuses on refined styling with functional detailing. Supple leather jackets, tailored blazers perfect for layering and heavy-weight outerwear options create a musthave winter outerwear offer.

O R I GI NAL PE NGU I N

E LEVE N PAR I S ELVI NE

duck and cover

Winter is the season when Swedish label Elvine really comes into its own, and a/w 14 is no diﬀerent. Designed under the ethos that jackets “should be warm, functional and reﬁned”, the latest drop features bomber jackets through to parkas with fur-lined hoods. A muter colour palette, meanwhile, sees variations of grey, black, blue, wine and orange.

French brand Eleven Paris will be returning this season with both its men’s and womenswear oﬀer. Retaining its signature Parisian design ethos – simple, classic wardrobe staples with a trendappropriate twist – the brand continues to develop its many sub-divisions. Spanning apparel, footwear, accessories and charity collaborations, key campaigns include the Movember x Eleven Paris T-shirt capsule collection.

DECEMBER 2013 | PREVIEW | 46

EXHIBITION CALENDAR Your comprehensive guide to the spring/summer 2014 shows. Sponsored by:

LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN 6-8 January 2014 The Hospital Club, Covent Garden 020 7759 1999 www.londoncollections.co.uk/men — London Collections: Men, which has cemented itself as one of the key menswear events in the buying calendar, returns to Covent Garden’s The Hospital Club for autumn/winter 2014. Kicking oﬀ the season, the show will welcome over 60 designers across apparel, footwear and accessories. The three-day event will see some of menswear’s most prominent domestic and international designers including Matthew Miller, Christopher Shannon and Hackett London. New names to the schedule this season include Casely-Hayford and A.Sauvage, while Newgen Men recipients Kit Neale and Common will hold presentations. Footwear labels Louis Leeman and John Lobb will also make their debut, alongside accessories brand Smythson. —

PITTI UOMO 7-10 January 2014 Fortezza da Basso, Florence 0039 (0)5509491861 www.pittimmagine.com — The 85th edition of Italian premium show Pitti Uomo will open its doors with a 1,000-strong exhibitor list come January 2014. The theme of the show is always a talking point and, for autumn/winter 2014, Rock Me Pitti is set to take over the Fortezza da Basso’s forecourt in the main pavilion, with performances and installations taking place across the four-day event. Diesel Black Gold creative director Andreas Melbostad will also make his debut as Pitti Uomo’s guest designer, showcasing the designer’s ﬁrst collection for Diesel Black Gold menswear. —

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White 11-13 January 2014 Via tortona, 27 – Via tortona, 54, 20144 Milan 0039 (0)234592785 www.whiteshow.it — Sāo Paulo Prêt-à-Porter 12-15 January 2014 expo Center Norte rua José Bernardo Pinto, 333 Vila Guilherme, São Paulo 0055 (11)38976100 www.saopaulopretaporter.com.br — CouroModa 13-16 January 2014 anhembi exhibition Center, av olavo Fontoura, 1.209, São Paulo, Brazil 0055 (11)38976100 www.couromoda.com — SeeK 14-16 January 2014 Kühlhaus, luckenwalder Str 3, 10963 Berlin 0049 (0)3062908511 www.seekberlin.com — CaPSule BerliN 14-15 January 2014 Postbahnhof, Straße der Pariser Kommune 8, 10243 Berlin 0012 (0)122068310 www.capsuleshow.com —

DECEMBER 2013 | PREVIEW | 47

BRIGHT 15-17 January 2014 Warenhaus Jandorf, Brunnenstrasse 19-21, 10119 Berlin 0049 (0)6966962157 www.brighttradeshow.com — CAPSULE PARIS 17-19 January 2014 Cité de la Mode, 34 quai d’Austerlitz, 75013 Paris 0012 122068310 www.capsuleshow.com — TRANOÏ HOMME 18-20 January 2014 Palais De La Bourse, 75002, Paris 0033 (0)153018490 www.tranoi.com — CAPSULE NEW YORK 21-22 January 2014 Basketball City, 299 South St (at Montgomery St), NYC 0012 (0)122068310 www.capsuleshow.com — PROJECT NEW YORK 21-23 January 2014 Pier 94, 55th Street, 12th Avenue, NYC 0012 187407092 www.magiconline.com/project-nyc — WHO’S NEXT PRÊT-À-PORTER PARIS 25-28 January 2014 Parc Des Expositions, Porte De Versailles, Paris 0033 (0)1410137483 www.whosnext.com — MODEFABRIEK 26-27 January 2014 Amsterdam RAI, Europaplein 8, 1078 GZ Amsterdam 0031 (0)204421960 www.modefabriek.nl — MRKET 26-28 January 2014 The Javits Center, New York 0012 038536015 www.mrketshow.com —

WOMAN LINGERIE & SWIMWEAR ACCESSORIES FOOTWEAR GENT

BREAD & BUTTER 14-16 January 2014 Airport Berlin – Tempelhof 0049 (0)302000370 www.breadandbutter.com — This season sees the launch of a brand new digital drive for Berlin’s biggest trade show, Bread & Butter. The exhibition’s latest concept – Ich Bin Ein Berliner – aims to celebrate bringing together visitors from across the globe to the city of Berlin for two weeks of the year. The new season also sees the launch of Bread & Butter’s inaugural online magazine, BBBMAG, which highlights industry news, products and interviews. Regular brands to showcase their latest oﬀering include Weekend Oﬀender, Aigle, Humor and Anerkjendt, while Bench will make its welcome return to the show following a two-season hiatus. —

PANORAMA BERLIN 14-16 January 2014 Berlin ExpoCenter Airport, Messestr 1, 12529 Schönefeld 0049 (0)30208891340 www.panorama-berlin.com — Panorama Berlin, the German trade show that spans men’s and womenswear, launches its brand new concept space, The Mall, for the exhibition’s third edition. Designed to showcase franchise store ideas, shop-in-shop designs, corner spaces and other innovative solutions for system space, the new hall will bring the show space up to 28,000 sq m. The event will present around 60-70 diﬀerent franchise models by international fashion brands over 5,000 sq m of ﬂoor space. Labels set to exhibit in the new area include Marc Cain, Gaudi, Liu Jo, Gelco and Repeat. —

PREMIUM 14-16 January 2014 Station-Berlin, Luckenwalder Str 4-6, 10963 Berlin 0049 (0)30208891330 www.premiumexhibitions.com — International fashion trade show Premium prides itself on its innovation and evolving hall design, and autumn/winter is set to impress once again. With 900 brands set across 23,000 sq m, the new season will see the relocation of the show’s Dissonance Area, which will move from Hall 7 to the street-side space formerly occupied by F95 Fashion Store. In addition, Hall 4, the exhibition for footwear and handbags, will be expanded to meet increased demand. The show will also unveil a collaboration with the Collect Showroom design collective – a selection of handpicked Berlin labels held in the Dissonance area. —

DECEMBER 2013 | PREVIEW | 48

CIFF 30 Jan – 2 Feb 2014 Bella Center, Center Boulevard 5, Copenhagen 0045 (0)32472213 www.ciff.dk — Following the successful launch of the show’s Crystal Hall last season, Ciff returns with a plethora of men’s and womenswear brands for autumn/winter 2014. Split into eight areas, including Urban Space Unisex, Essential Men and Ciff shoes, the show will play host to a growing number of new signings. These include Happy Socks, Bronx, Indicode Jeans, Voi Jeans and Circle of Gentlemen. The new season also sees the show team up with renowned fashion photographer Terry Richardson. The photo series features clothes from a number of Scandinavian labels, shot against Richardson’s signature white background. —

JACKeT ReqUIRed 5-6 February 2014 The Old Truman Brewery, 91 Brick Lane, London e1 6qL (entrance via ely’s Yard) info@jacket-required.com www.jacket-required.com — Jacket Required, London’s biggest menswear trade show, is relocating to East London’s Old Truman Brewery for its autumn/winter 2014 edition, and will accommodate 50 additional exhibitors. Moving its dateline forward, the event will take place on 5-6 February 2014 in the grade II listed building – in a brand new space, which has been developed especially to house this season’s show. New signings include Eleven Paris, Harry Stedman, Peas and Carrots and Wellensteyn, while returning favourites include Edwin, La Paz and Baracuta. —

The hUB 25-27 February 2014 Asia World expo, hong Kong exhibit@thehub.hk www.thehub.hk — Following its successful debut last season, Hong Kong trade exhibition The HUB returns to the Asia World Expo with a raft of names set to attract buyers from key markets such as China, Korea and Taiwan. Focusing on branded fashion, the inaugural show attracted over 100 international labels included Chester Barrie, Henri Lloyd, John Smedley and Adidas Y-3. Autumn/winter 2014 will see The HUB join forces with ITE Moda – the UK’s largest fashion trade show organiser. Acquiring 20 per cent of the show, ITE Moda will work alongside co-founders Peter Caplowe and Richard Hobbs to establish The HUB as a key date on the international premium fashion calendar. —

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INDX MENSWEAR SHOW 28-30 January 2014 Cranmore Park, Solihull, West Midlands B90 4LF 0121 683 1434 www.indxshow.co.uk — CPH VISION 29-30 January 2014 Lokomotivværkstedet, Building OBV 037, Otto Busses Vej 5A, Copenhagen SV 0045 (0)39648586 www.cphvision.dk — GALLERY 29-31 January 2014 Gallery Fashion Fair, Hovedvagtsgade 8, 5 1103 Copenhagen K 0045 (0)33120930 www.gallery.dk — IMC 2-3 February 2014 Whittlebury Hall, Northamptonshire NN12 8QH 01473 256061 www.imcmenswear.co.uk – LONDONEDGE 2-4 February 2014 The National Hall, Olympia London 0116 289 8249 www.londonedge.com – MOMAD METROPOLIS 14-16 February 2014 Pavillions 4, 12 and 14 Feria de Madrid, Spain 0034 (0)917223000 www.momad.metropolis.ifema.es – BETA 16-18 February 2014 NEC Birmingham 01937 582111 www.beta-int.com – CAPSULE LAS VEGAS 17-19 February 2014 The Venetian, 3355 S Las Vegas Blvd 0012 (0)122068310 www.capsuleshow.com –

DECEMBER 2013 | PREVIEW | 49

PREMIÈRE VISION 18-20 February 2014 Parc d'Exposition, Paris exposants@premierevision.com www.premierevision.com – MAGIC 18-20 February 2014 Las Vegas and Mandalay Bay Convention Centres, Nevada 0018 775544834 www.magiconline.com – PROJECT LAS VEGAS 18-20 February 2014 Mandalay Bay, 3950 Las Vegas Blvd, Nevada 0012 187407092 www.magiconline.com/ project-las-vegas – WHAT ABOUT SHOES 21-23 February 2014 Kopernikusstrasse 24, 10245 Berlin 0049 (0)3068910572 www.whataboutshoes.de — CPM 25-28 February 2014 Expocentre Fairgroud, Moscow 0049 (0)2114396312 www.cpm-moscow.com — THEMICAM 2-5 March 2014 Fieramilano, Milan 0039 (0)249971 www.micamonline.com — NOVOMANIA 5-7 March 2014 Shanghai Mart, 200336 Shanghai 0086 2161573942 www.novomania.com.cn —

WOMAN LINGERIE & SWIMWEAR ACCESSORIES FOOTWEAR GENT

MODA GENT 16-18 February 2014 NEC, Birmingham, UK 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk — The leading UK trade show for the mainstream menswear market, Moda Gent returns to the halls of the NEC with a mix of established and emerging labels. Across both international and domestic menswear, brands set to return to the exhibition include Olymp, Casa Moda, Brax, Eterna, Fynch Hatton and Gibson. The upcoming show will also see the welcome return of the Hall 20 catwalk theatre, with dedicated men’s tailoring and lifestyle, urban and contemporary and accessories catwalks. —

MODA FOOTWEAR 16-18 February 2013 NEC, Birmingham, UK 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk — Moda Footwear is the UK’s largest footwear exhibition, welcoming over 400 brands each season. British label Joules, which showcased its footwear oﬀer last August to a great response, will return to the show for autumn/winter 2014. Other brands set to showcase once again include Base London, Mustang, Barker, Fly London, Neosens, Dude Shoes and Ikon, oﬀering a label to suit every type of customer across contemporary to classic to comfort footwear. There will also be, once again, a dedicated footwear catwalk show running in Hall 20, throughout the three-day event. —

SELECT 16-18 February 2013 NEC, Birmingham, UK 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk — Select returns for autumn/winter 2014 with a brand new fascia and a raft of returning favourites. Following a successful debut show last season, Palladium will take to the halls once again, while Gabicci Vintage and Jekyll & Hyde will also return to the contemporary apparel and footwear zone. British labels will be in abundance at the next edition, with iconic sock label Pantherella, accessories brand Knightsbridge, apparel label Guide and leather goods brand The British Belt Company all showcasing their autumn/winter 2014 collections come February. —

DECEMBER 2013 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 51

SOCIETY The parties and events from in and around the menswear industry.

 SATORIAL7’S PHIL GREEN AND TERRY DONAVAN WITH MODEL JACK GUINNESS AT THE OPENING OF AQUASCUTUM’S LATEST STORE OPENING ON GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.

 (L-R) SINGER ELIZA DOOLITTLE; HOLLYWOOD FILM DIRECTOR ROB MINKOFF; SINGER LEONA LEWIS, EMMY AWARD-WINNING ACTOR TY BURRELL; AND HEART FM PRESENTER EMMA BUNTON SWITCH ON THE REGENT STREET CHRISTMAS LIGHTS.

Last month saw Aquascutum open its doors once again in the West End and the UKFT campaign for manufacturing to come back home. —

 (L-R) DIESEL’S ARTISTIC DIRECTOR, NICOLA FORMICHETTI; MODEL GEORGIA JAGGER; AND DIESEL FOUNDER RENZO ROSSO AT THE DIESEL SHOES & BAGS RELAUNCH IN TOKYO.

 RICHARD BRANSON AND BOXPARK CEO ROGER WADE AT THE VIRGIN START-UP LAUNCH, AN INITIATIVE THAT OFFERS LOAN SCHEMES FOR YOUNG ENTREPRENEURS.

 (L-R) DEMELZA GALICA, DISC MANAGER; JOHN MILN UKFT CEO; BETTY JACKSON CBE; AND PAUL ALGER, UKFT DIRECTOR OF INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT AT THE RELAUNCH OF THE UKFT’S LET’S MAKE IT HERE WEBSITE – A FREE ONLINE DATABASE WHERE ANY COMPANY THAT MANUFACTURES TEXTILES OR APPAREL IN THE UK CAN BE LISTED IN ORDER TO BE FOUND BY DESIGNERS, BRANDS OR RETAILERS SEARCHING FOR PRODUCTION CLOSER TO HOME.

DECEMBER 2013 | PEOPLE | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 52

COlleCTIve The people, the places, the products.

LiTTLE BLacK BooK ATelIer Akeef BerlIn

simon says There’s nothing better at this time of year than a good cold snap. not too wet, mind you, but nippy enough to drive the customers into the stores in search of a good pair of cashmere lined ponyskin gloves or a scarf. One of the peculiarities of our trade is that we rub our hands with glee as others rub theirs with cold. i was reminded of this as we took delivery of logs for our woodburning stove in the crystal Palace store. These are supplied by a local “character” called Lord Log. They do make the shop very cosy and customers love to warm themselves up by standing in front of it. it’s now over a year since we opened the crystal Palace store, and there’s a real feeling of having been adopted by the community. many regulars just drop in to chat to my manager, nuala. and although we’d all prefer it if they bought something, it’s still a good feeling to be part of something. as i write this, we are tantalisingly close to opening our new store in Blackheath. as ever, it creeps one day behind followed by another, but it looks beautiful. Here, too, we’ve attracted a great deal of interest and curiosity from the local community. The Blackheath society and other groups are following our progress closely, monitoring our restoration of their much-loved Edwardian shop front. my builders have had to keep the shutters down as they were constantly interrupted by, “What’s the shop going to be?” and, “you are keeping the curved windows, aren’t you?” Hopefully this is a good sign and their interest will translate into sales. The delays have meant that we are opening perilously close to christmas. i have a feeling it’s going to be a good one, though probably nerve-shreddingly late. if so, it will cap oﬀ a good year; new store opening, trading well up, licence in india close to signature and winning menswear Brand of the year. i’m a little old to visit santa in his grotto, and might well ﬁnd myself caught up in operation yewtree if i tried but, if i did, i’d ask for just one thing – a nice cold winter. simon Carter is the CeO of the eponymous brand and retail stores. —

With show season upon the fashion industry once again, the first stop for many will be Berlin, visiting the raft of exhibitions now taking place in the city. Those looking for inspiration from not only brands but current retailers should take a trip to Atelier Akeef in the heart of the capital’s fashion district, Mitte. a new name to the German retail landscape, the store was established in september this year by co-founders alan sommerville and michael ashley. its UsP? The first menswear outlet dedicated to fashion brands that embody sustainable intelligence. stocking labels such as Ekin Footwear, Veja, Kings of indigo, The White Briefs, shwood and Johnstons of Elgin, the store is a blend of up-cycled wood, sustainable clay and non-toxic colourants. a knowledgeable team is behind the store, on hand to discuss and explain the history of each brand on offer to shoppers. Having recently launched its online retail arm, the store is set to make a suitable dent in the sustainable menswear market. — PlAn B

Ben MellIs sales manager, atelier scotch

Before I got into this industry I was a personal trainer for four years, so I guess I would have continued with that. i was also a swedish body masseuse. it’s still something i’m interested in and i keep ﬁt and love sport, so it would have been a natural progression to take it further. a personal trainer to the stars would have been the way to go, but just to have a successful little business in London would have been good. When i was doing it, around 11 years ago, it wasn’t such a highproﬁle job. But now it seems everybody wants to be a personal trainer, so there are probably fewer opportunities to grow such a business. Fashion has always been a passion, so i decided to take this route instead. To be honest, i got fed up with being a personal trainer because it’s also like being an agony aunt, listening to people’s problems all day. i could quite easily do it for Rosie Huntington-Whitely, though! —

DECEMBER 2013 | PEOPLE | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 53

TOP TWEETS

CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL DAVID HOBBS OWNER, GENERAL CLASSIFICATION AGENCY I like to have products that are well-made, have a good brand history, quality detailing and subtle logos. On that note, I will firstly opt for my Schiesser short-sleeved top as my favourite wardrobe addition. I bought it around five years ago from Oi Polloi. It’s long staple Egyptian cotton. The fit is great and it’s just so comfortable to wear. — Next up I choose my Gitman Vintage button-down blue Oxford shirt. Gitman simply makes the best button-down Oxford out there. It’s a great cut and has a perfect collar roll and superb cloth. You can dress it up or down and it’s always a go-to in my wardrobe. This I bought from End Clothing. — Anderson’s belts from Italy make great handmade woven and leather belts. The price point is perfect in the UK, and you can add a splash of colour in a subtle way by changing your belt. I bought this one from 7 Wolves in Norwich. — I have always loved sweatshirts. I have had a 6876 grey sweat for years and I keep coming back to it. I love the colour and especially the heavy weight cotton. 6876 has been a favourite of mine for years as it does great quality products. — I have always liked bags, especially since I cycle regularly, and my Chapman twopocket rucksack is a perfect size to take a laptop and spare clothes. It looks good on the bike and just “out and about”, too, as it’s made from premium twill bonded cotton, so it’s waterproof but still looks natural. Chapman bags are all handmade in Cumbria. In the bag I carry my Brooks tool kit, which I never cycle without. — Lastly, my navy blue Fjallraven Greenland jacket is my absolute favourite outerwear piece. It’s made from G1000 cotton mix, so it’s lightweight but coated, water-resistant and tough wearing. I wear this jacket all year round – it’s that good. —

Disneyrollergirl @Disneyrollrgirl “I have cashmere jumpers that were made in Scotland 20 years ago still going strong” #MadeinBritain #LetsMakeItHere Andrew Tompsett @The39club Absolutely delighted that ubiquitous Johny Pattinson retired buyer from @bentalls is special guest of honour at Spring luncheon in March Esquire Weekly @EsquireWeekly You know it’s the Monday after payday when everyone’s got a new haircut Liberty London @LibertyLondon “We obsess over everything we make. But it’s worth it. Good things take time.” @LEVIS #MadeandCrafted dieworkwear @dieworkwear *Feel super cool in my Nike Flyknits* *Go outside and see a bunch of middle-aged balding guys in Nike Flyknits* Bill Grimsey @BillGrimsey Where are all the Indie Champions when it comes to lobbying Gvmt to reinstate the 2015 revaluation for bis rates? Stamp your feet now! Simon Carter @kingofcuﬄinks When I began my regular rants about southern rail, someone from marketing used to tweet back in self-defence. I see they've given up.

THREE OF THE BEST TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale

Armand Diradourian, cashmere eye mask price on request 0012 129245787 —

Globetrotter, suitcase price on request 020 7529 5950 —

Smythson, luggage tag price on request 0845 873 2435 —

DECEMBER 2013 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 55

THE BOTTOMLEY LINE

MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

 ALEXIS KNOX DJING AT THE ELEVEN PARIS CARNABY STREET CHRISTMAS EVENT

NEW DETAIL TRADE SHOW TO FOCUS ON MEN’S ACCESSORIES With accessories no doubt a growth area for menswear independents and department stores, a new accessories trade show, Detail – set to run in London’s Clerkenwell – could be a useful addition to the buying calendar. It’s to be held at a building called Crypt on the Green but, thankfully, the roll call of brands signed up so far is not geared up for a fright night. There’s South West watches, Morrows socks, Johnstons of Elgin gloves, hats and scarves, Drakes of London ties, London Undercover umbrellas, Knight Mills bags and rugs, Mr NN leather goods, and Veras new bags, belts and leather goods line (pictured) – all made in Spain. The man behind the show is Jared Horn, once co-owner of long since gone Cardiﬀ independent Drooghi, and now owner of One Percenter Showroom, so a man with knowledge of both sides of the table – retail and wholesale. With Christmas trading so important, the relevance of such a dedicated show should not be ignored – especially for an autumn/winter buying season. For more information visit detaillondon.com.

CARNABY CHRISTMAS SHOPPING PARTY GETS THE SEASON TO BE JOLLY GOING The mid-November Christmas shopping party in London’s Carnaby – with over 100 brands taking part oﬀering 20 per cent discount on the night as well as goody bags, live music, DJs and free drinks – proved a hit with consumers once again, with the place absolutely buzzing. DJ Jodie Harsh and stylist Alexis Knox provided the soundtrack for shoppers in the window of the new Eleven Paris shop, while Pepe Jeans gave away free beers, and Ben Sherman supplied mulled cider to grateful young chaps soaking up the atmosphere. The Carnaby Christmas lights were oﬃcially turned on

 MAGIC MIRROR

 VERAS’ NEW COLLECTION OF ACCESSORIES

at 6pm on the night by broadcaster and DJ Goldierocks via a virtual link. However, the sound of tills taking the money was far from virtual, and hopefully the kick oﬀ to some serious festive spending to help to continue to get the economy back on track.

THE MAGIC MIRROR THAT DOESN’T LIE Italian tannery Motta Alfredo has developed an instrument known as the Magic Mirror. It’s a mirrored screen powered by lasers to carefully map the fully clothed body, creating an avatar using the person’s measurements and conﬁgurations to produce a personalised madeto-measure garment in leather, which can be delivered in 10 working days. Sounds pretty space age, but also quite a novel idea that could catch

on. The Magic Mirror allows customers to select from a library of pre-loaded designs, change and personalise them, and also select the leather of their choice, then see a ﬁnished product clothed in an avatar of their image, before the garment is made up. Initially the Magic Mirror was developed to create a “non-brand solution” service for independent retailers and small companies who want to oﬀer a personalised service to their customers. However, since its inception, many of the major international labels are apparently realising its potential, and have approached Motta Alfredo, represented in the UK by George Taylor, to develop the service for their business. Let’s hope the next development isn’t a talking magic mirror that tells you it will crack if you don’t go on a diet. Mirror mirror on the wall, who’s the fairest of them all? “Not you!”

DECEMBER 2013 | DIRECTORY | 56

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LAST ORDERS WITH... TAYLOR MORRIS Born from a sketch on a bar napkin while co-founders and childhood friends Hugo Taylor and Charlie Morris contemplated life over drinks, sunglasses label Taylor Morris launched earlier this year, with Harvey Nichols quick to add it to its handpicked brand mix. — Place of birth: London Lives now: London Date of birth: HT: 01/06/86 CM: 18/12/89 Website: www.taylor-morris.com Twitter: @TaylorMorrisLDN

How did the launch of Taylor Morris come about? Hugo Taylor: It was one of those fantastic projects that developed through both necessity and passion. Necessity because Charlie and I worked together relaunching the club Chinawhite and, due to the nature of the job, we were working stupid hours and coming in wearing our glasses. It became enjoyable to see what we would both be wearing each day. It took a few drunken nights out and some sketches on bar napkins before Taylor Morris came out of it. Charlie Morris: Hugo and I have always had a serious obsession with eyewear. We have the same taste for the classical look, and we wanted to put our own modern twist to it, which I think we’ve achieved. Currently stocked in Harvey Nichols, are you looking to expand into other retailers? CM: We’re very happy to have landed Harvey Nichols, which is a British institution. It’s the perfect place to have a six-month exclusive partnership in the UK. We’ve also landed stockists in St Barts in the Caribbean and New York. Once we’ve got a larger collection, we’d deﬁnitely like to open our own boutique. We have the perfect man to do our interior design as well – Broosk Saib, a lifelong friend of ours. He has that Taylor Morris style. From where do you draw your design inspiration? HT: Firstly we look to British sartorial elegance. How can we transpose the values and feel of Savile Row into a pair of sunglasses? British design has long been – and long will be – a world leader in fashion. Secondly, we look at timeless Hollywood glamour. Charlie and I love screen icons such as Elizabeth Taylor, Steve McQueen and James Dean. These legends help elevate sunglasses from something of a purely functional object to one of extreme fashion value. They made sunglasses personal and an extension of their character. At Taylor Morris we try to combine the two, thus you will see pieces in our collection with

traditional shapes but with new expressive values. And in terms of personal style, is there anyone you take sartorial note of? HT: David Beckham always dresses impeccably. But I like to add a little more rock ’n’ roll and bohemianism into my appearance, so people like Johnny Depp and Keith Richards inspire me to push the boundaries. CM: I do love [US reality TV star, model and businessman] Scott Disick’s style, even though he’s a bit of a douchebag. I’d say I kind of have my own style, and friends’ styles always seem to rub off on each other. Which labels can be found hanging in your closet? HT: Oh lord, my wardrobe is hideously narrow when it comes to labels. Ralph Lauren, Belstaff and J Brand – that’s about it. Occasionally I will find one-off pieces from small boutiques, but I have never lost my love for Ralph. Its store on Mount Street is heavenly to me. A trip there can turn expensive very quickly. I never regret it though – even if it means my girlfriend won’t be taken out to dinner that week. CM: I have the same love for Ralph Lauren and all its sub brands such as Rugby and Double RL. Christian Dior jeans are a must, and I love a pair of Nike Air Max 90s. Who would you like to see wearing a pair of Taylor Morris sunglasses? CM: I’d have to say Broosk Saib – his style is the dream. Also, the aforementioned Disick, as well as Peter Sellers and Michelle Pfeiffer. Jack Nicholson always has a wicked pair of shades on, too. HT: In their day, I’d say James Dean and the entirely magnificent Audrey Hepburn.

L-R: HUGO TAYLOR AND CHARLIE MORRIS

QUICK-FIRE QUESTIONS — Most treasured piece in your wardrobe? CM: I would probably say my Breitling Chronometre watch my father got for me – I feel naked without it. — Growing up I wanted to be… HT: A Rolling Stone. — One piece of advice I’d give my 16-year old self… CM: Definitely study harder at school! — I wish I could resist… HT: Cinnamon sugar cronuts from Aubaine in London. They’re around 750 calories, eaten twice a day most days of the week. You do the math. —