MWB209 MAGAZINE JANUARY ISSUE

ISSUE 209 | JANUARY 2014 | £6.95 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

BAKER BOY TED BAKER’S ELUSIVE RAY KELVIN ON THE BRAND’S RISE TO FAME — CHANGE IN SEASON YOUR COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE TO AUTUMN/WINTER 2014

JANUARY 2014 | CONTENTS | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 05

R E T A I L 12

Online Insider

14

Retail Insider

17

Forecasting the future

Advice, news and issues online The latest in-store news A/w 14 predictions from trend agency Trendstop

19

Boosting your business Ideas and advice from retail specialist Thierry Bale

G E N T 26

Product news Rounding up the key stories this month

28

In-season

30

Survival of the knitted

33

A casual affair

Fisherman’s friend The future of Johnstons of Elgin The success of lifestyle label Casamoda

36

New innings for Kent & Curwen The next step for the classic British brand

B R A N D

G U I D E

40

Brand news

46

Style spotting

The latest developments in menswear Five of the key trends for a/w 14

D E N I M

&

S T R E E T

60

Product news

62

In-season

65

G Star heads central

67

East is East

74

The young and the restless

Rounding up the key stories this month Life in black and white The denim label opens on Oxford Street The brands to catch at Jacket Required Highlights from this season’s contemporary menswear offer

R E G U L A R S 7 8 20

Comment News Interview Ray Kelvin

88 91 94

Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With…

Mark Haddon

Front cover:

Uniforms for the Dedicated 0046 735257041 Photographer - Kalle Gustafsson

JANUARY 2014 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 07

EDITOR

commenT

Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com — DEPUT y

EDITOR

Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — CONTRIBUTORS Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — SUB

EDITOR

Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — DESIGNERS Michael Podger michael@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — SALES

MANAGER

Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — SUB SCRIPTIONS Caroline Mackinnon caroline@moda-uk.co.uk — HEAD

OF

MENSWEAR

Jamie Harden jamie@moda-uk.co.uk — PRODUCTION

DIRECTOR

Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — PORTFOLIO

DIRECTOR

Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — MARKETING

DIRECTOR

Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — MANAGING

DIRECTOR

Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com —

MWB is published 11 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2014 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved.

Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

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The autumn/winter 2014 season is in full throttle and, as the buying calendar kicks off both domestically and internationally, many retailers are visiting trade shows to not only be inspired, but to catch up with fellow indies who might just be experiencing the same daily challenges as them.

— Let me start by wishing you all a Happy new Year and welcoming you to the first edition of mWB in 2014 – your comprehensive guide to the autumn/winter 2014 season no less.

By the time this issue has landed on your doorstep, the MWB team will have already visited London Collections: Men, sampling just some of what the British designers are bringing to the table for the new season, as well kicking off the international buying calendar over at Pitti Uomo in Florence.

One of the highlights for me during the buying season, apart from the feeling of excitement and “buzz”, dare I say it, surrounding the brand new collections, is having time to catch up with independent retailers like yourself.

Pitti Uomo, for example, will no doubt have seen buyers and store owners from across the UK meet over a drink (or three) and talk about how business really is – the cold, hard reality of menswear if you like. From Exeter to Edinburgh, the menswear industry is infamous for its ability to discuss, advise and pass on a snippet or two of valuable information. The successful retailers are the ones who share information. Whether it’s about a brand that is working particularly well in-store, an up-and-coming label to watch out for or even just a good old moan about the industry as it is today.

I recently caught up with one independent whose view was that trade shows had had their day. Brands now came to his store, therefore travelling and taking time out of the shop was unnecessary. Although there is no doubting this indie’s success, I imagine this kind of scenario is few and far between for the majority of the menswear industry. Trade shows give retailers time to not only catch up, but to re-energise and to breathe some new life into their store.

With a plethora of trade exhibitions taking place over the next month, this issue of MWB will act as your definitive handbook to the new labels worth discovering and to the developments across both the mainstream and directional market. I hope to catch up with many of you at Bread & Butter, Jacket Required and Moda but for now I wish you an inspiring autumn/winter 2014 buying season and a prosperous year ahead. And, remember, it’s good to talk!

Victoria Jackson editor

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. RAS Publishing Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.

JANUARY 2014 | NEWS | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 08

N E W S

THE HUB L AUN CHES THE GREENHOU SE

TRUNK

GROW TH IS KEY FOR IN DIES IN 2 0 1 4 Following a difficult but resilient 2013, independent retailers are feeling buoyant about the next 12 months and are looking to both expand and increase buying budgets, according to a recent straw poll carried out by mWB. With 2014 retail forecasts predicting an economic recovery that is set to continue to gather pace, many retailers are, for the first time in a number of seasons, increasing their spending and investing into both their bricks-and-mortar and online retail arms as they move into the autumn/winter buying season.

Having opened his second store – Trunk Labs – on London’s Chiltern Street late last year, independent retailer Mats Klingberg, founder of Trunk Clothiers is feeling positive moving forward. “The hotel across from Trunk is finally opening early this year, so it should make a big difference to footfall,” says Klingberg. “It’s run by Andre Balaz, who has The Mercer and The Standard, among other hotels in the US, so it should bring in a good crowd.”

Despite investing heavily into his second store, Klingberg is also increasing his overall buying budget for autumn/winter 2014. “As the business is growing, we’re having to change the way we buy, so we’re going to be buying much deeper into all the styles we believe the most in compared to what we’ve done before.”

Kyle Stewart, owner of Shoreditch shop The Goodhood Store, will also increase his buying budget for the new season with a focus on Japanese brands to set him apart from the competition. “We’re feeling exceptionally positive about 2014,” he says. “The next 12 months will be about interesting collaborations and projects for us. In terms of buying, I get truly excited to see the Japanese brands. I believe nobody comes close to them in terms of design and production, so we’re talking about looking at some of the less well-known high-end Japanese street labels to help us grow even further over the next year or so.”

Helping such businesses to grow through 2014 – subsequently allowing them to create jobs, invest and export – is a key focus for John Longworth, director general of the British Chambers of Commerce. “Businesses up and down the country tell me they are confident and determined to grow,” says Longworth. “The government must make a serious effort to deliver the many promises made and focus on implementing measures that will boost growth, such as increasing availability of finance to will raise the confidence of businesses on the ground.”

—

Hong Kong trade show The HUB has launched The Greenhouse, an incubator initiative for emerging design talent from across the globe.

The show’s second edition, taking place on 25-27 February at Asia World Expo, will play host to the new area, dedicated to around 50 young and progressive international labels. With its own distinct design and ambiance, The Greenhouse is set to resemble a chic showroom in Paris or London.

“One of the key aspects of The HUB is that, although based in Asia, we don't favour local labels,” says Peter Caplowe, co-founder of The HUB. “Anyone showing at The HUB is here on merit alone – as such, we are delighted to have found such a wealth of world-class talent in the region. We are certain they will make waves globally, especially with a new platform, The Greenhouse, at which they can show alongside the world’s best emerging designers.”

—

SMALL BUSINESS SATURDAY HAILED A SU CCESS Small Business Saturday, an initiative to drive consumers to shop in independent retailers that took place last month, has been hailed a success as hundreds of businesses offered flash sales and oneoff promotions.

The campaign, initially launched in the US by American Express, was supported by shadow business secretary Chuka Umunna, the Prime Minister David Cameron and 200 other members of Parliament with its launch in the UK. “Never in my wildest dreams did I think it would get this big,” says Umunna. “There is such a lot of talk about the American dream – small business succeeding against all odds. We do have a British dream, but we don’t talk about it; it’s not part of our imagination. But Small Business Saturday can give life to that dream.”

—

JANUARY 2014 | NEWS | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 09

IN BRIEF

BARACUTA

MERGER FOR THE STONE AGEN CY AND BACKSTAGE

LC:M KICKS OFF IN ST YLE

Two of the UK’s key fashion agencies, The Stone Agency and Backstage, have merged, and will now be run under the name Index London for a/w 14.

Bringing together a raft of brands including Baracuta, Esemplare, Golden Fleece by Spiewak, Griffin and Notch London, the new partnership will welcome the knowledge and experience of The Stone Agency’s Kevin Stone, Backstage founder Steffano Cardoni and sales manager Ed Fife.

The showroom opens on 20 January 2014, while the agency will be showcasing its brands at Pitti Uomo, Bread & Butter, Seek, Tranoi and Jacket Required.

—

London Collections: Men (LC:M) opened its doors for its fourth edition earlier this month, playing host to over 130 domestic and international names in menswear.

Now considered one of the leading events in the menswear calendar, LC:M was held at The Hospital Club, Covent Garden, with events and shows taking place across the capital.

The show schedule kicked off with a catwalk show at the Victoria House, presenting the a/w 14 collection from Lou Dalton (pictured), while the likes of Christopher Raeburn, Burberry, Hackett London and Orlebar Brown held presentations and runway shows throughout the three-day showcase.

The designer showrooms hosted a number of ready-to-wear lines from an array of designers, and was separated into four different categories – emerging, streetwear, contemporary and luxe basics designers.

—

LAST YEAR’S WINNERS ON STAGE WITH PRESENTER MYLEENE KLASS

AT ELIER GARDEUR PRESENTS DY N A M IC ST R ETCH

N AT W EST U K FT AWA R DS TO R ET U R N FOR 2 0 1 4

German trouser specialist Atelier Gardeur will, for the first time, introduce two super-elastic trouser styles for autumn/winter 2014, offering maximum freedom of movement.

The Dynamic Cotton Stretch trouser has a large proportion of stretchable material with innovative yarn, while the Dynamic Denim Stretch comprises a Dualfix multi-component yarn when both the spandex and the T400 fibre are coated with cotton – the result being denim that has maximum elasticity and a high level of shape retention.

Both styles are available as five pockets in the new slim-fit style, with a narrow foot width of 38cm, while Cotton Stretch is presented in six different colours, and Denim Stretch in two shades of blue.

—

The Natwest UK Fashion & Textile Awards will return this year, taking place on 22 May 2014 at East London’s iconic Tobacco Dock, and will be presented by the BBC’s Susanna Reid.

The UKFT will, for the first time, lift the curtain on the awards with a “making of” film of the 2014 campaign with fashion photographer David Goldman.

Goldman, who has previously worked with the likes of Barbour and Pringle of Scotland, will create a full behind-the-scenes campaign, providing exclusive access to the build-up of the awards.

The awards will see the best in British fashion battle it out for the coveted UKFT Rise Award, won

by Emma J Shipley in 2013. Likewise, the Designer Business Award will recognise the huge creative and commercial success of the UK’s most influential and established designers, won last year by Christopher Raeburn.

—

CAPSULE JOINS REED EXHIBITIONS Global trade show Capsule has been bought by event organiser Reed Exhibitions. Capsule is held 12 times a year, in Paris, Berlin, New York and Las Vegas, and specialises in both the contemporary men’s and womenswear market.

The show, which has been independently operated by fashion consultancy BPMW since its inception in 2007, will join Reed’s current portfolio, which includes trade show Agenda. The transaction was completed in late December and terms were not disclosed.

— AND ADIDAS TIGHTEN SALES NIKE REGULATIONS According to reports, sportswear giants Nike and Adidas have told UK and Irish independent retailers that unless they meet the minimum sales requirement of £25,000 of apparel and footwear per year, the companies will stop supplying their goods.

Adidas sent its independent retailers a letter last November that stipulated the company would cancel smaller accounts if they were insufficient and did not sell the required quota of goods.

A company spokesperson for Nike, meanwhile, stated that the company requires “its European retail partners, no matter the size of such partners, to meet an annual minimum order level in order to support the necessary operational costs associated with delivering the best product presentation and consumer experience at the point of sale.”

— MID-MARKET RETAILERS SUFFER DECEMBER SALES DROP According to the latest data released by accountancy and business advisory firm BDO, retail sales for December have not been able to provide relief for the British middle-market high street, including those such as French Connection, Hobbs and Gap. The firm’s High Street Sales Tracker survey, which outlines the weekly like-for-like sales changes of 85 mid-tier chain retailers, showed that overall like-for-like sales for middle-market retailers in December were down 2.2 per cent on a year-onyear basis.

In a statement, the firm states, “Following on from what was a solid month of trading in November, many retailers will have been left disappointed by a month of lacklustre consumer demand in the crucial Christmas trading period.

Pent-up demand was expected to play a larger role as we moved closer to Christmas day but in reality it never fully took hold.”

However, the weak performance of in-store sales was boosted by 31.1 per cent increase in online sales from 2012 and, during the week prior to Christmas, online sales grew 55.7 percent, another indicator pointing to the growing importance of having a strong online presence.

—

JANUARY 2014 | NEWS | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 10

IN BRIEF

WOLSEY SPORTSMA N COLLECTION

OLYMP T URNOVER EXCEEDS €2 0 0 M M A R K FOR FIR ST T IM E

British heritage brand Wolsey is relaunching its historic Sportsman line for autumn/winter 2014. The range, which was first released in the 20s, comprises modern and stylish high-performance tailored sportswear, with a strong focus on breathable, waterproof and multi-layered outerwear and performance merino polos, base layers and knitwear.

Sportsman’s clean and subtle use of traditional British menswear colours, minimal and strong textural patterns are designed to create a “less is more” aesthetic.

Wolsey has partnered with Invista, the maker of Thermocool, to offer a full range of products that dual regulate body temperatures. Prices range from £35 for a T-shirt to £400 for a jacket. The brand plans to recreate a team of pioneers that champion Wolsey’s spirit of adventure and demonstrates key brand messages through strategic ad campaigns, sponsored activity and media feature placements.

—

German shirt and knitwear specialist Olymp has once again experienced turnover in both its domestic and export market.

In 2013, the brand’s annual turnover grew by a further €15.5m to €202.4m, representing an increase of 8.3 per cent against the previous year.

“In 2013, Olymp made its largest single investment in the company’s history since 1951,” says Mark Bezner, owner and CEO of Olymp Bexner GmbH & Co. “A total of €40m was invested into our modern logistic centre and hence in the mediumterm future of our company.”

In view of the changing needs of the market, Olymp has also increased its leisure and knitwear sector. “Because of changed consumer behaviour in terms of clothing and leisure habits and the relaxing of dress codes in the business world, casualwear is becoming increasingly more important,” says Bezner.

—

SME ON LINE RETA ILERS TO COMBINE CLICKS AND BRICKS

BR EA D & BU T T ER W IDEN S THE NET

One in six UK SME (small and medium enterprises) online retailers are planning to expand into physical stores in 2014 as online competition for sales grows, according to research conducted by Royal Mail.

The annual study of more than 400 UK SME online retailers found that 16 per cent expected to launch into a physical store or seek space in an existing store to increase its sales in 2014.

“UK SME online retailers are thinking carefully about how they can develop their businesses during 2014,” says Nick Landon, managing director of the Royal Mail. “They are concentrating on exploiting as many channels to market as possible, adding space in physical premises and online marketplace listings to complement their existing web channel.”

—

German trade show Bread & Butter is to embark on a dramatic change in direction next year, when it is planning to open up the show to consumers.

Starting with its July 2014 edition, the event will introduce two public days to its regular trade show schedule, taking the duration of the event to five days, on 8-12 July. The first day will be reserved for press, top bloggers and invited VIP guests, while the second and third day will remain focused on professional buyers and trade visitors.

During the fourth and fifth days, however, the show will be opened up to the public, where exhibiting brands will have the option of promoting their brands to the end consumer, and can choose whether they want to give glimpses of the coming season or advertise current season product.

—

INTEL COMBINES TECHNOLOGY AND FASHION Technology giant Intel is expanding into the fashion sector with a partnership with Barneys New York, the Council of Fashion Designers of America and Opening Ceremony to produce “wearable tech”.

Announced at the International Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegas last month, Intel explained it was hoping that the partnership will accelerate wearable device innovation, as well as increase dialogue between fashion and technology industries.

The project will see the launch of the smart bracelet, between Intel and Opening Ceremony, however details regarding the design, the price point and release date has not be disclosed at the time of going to press.

— KEY NAMES BAN USE OF ANGORA Asos, H&M, Next, Esprit and Topshop among others have agreed to stop selling angora products after the release of last month’s graphic video of PETA’s investigation into angora farms in China. Asos confirmed that it was banning and pulling from its shelves any products made with angora with immediate effect.

“By pulling all angora products from its international websites and shelves, Asos has done the right thing for animals and consumers,” says PETA UK’s Mimi Bekhechi. “Angora production is cruel, and PETA urges all retailers to follow Asos’ example and show that cruelty to animals has no place in their stores.”

— COSTUME NATIONAL DEBUTS NEW MENSWEAR LINE Italian fashion house Costume National has revealed the launch of its new menswear ready-to-wear line, Costume and Costume. With a five-year licence agreement for the worldwide production and distribution of the new brand with FFI Global, Costume and Costume will replace its current Costume National collection.

The new range will have a “more contemporary market approach” than Costume National, and has been developed in response to market feedback.

The line will also have its own independent structure of distribution and direct retail stores, as well as being available in Costume National flagship stores. The label is also planning to open boutiques and spaces inside selected department stores in Europe, the US and Asia.

— HARVEY JACOBSON NAMED AS BACKER OF BARRATTS Harvey Jacobson, chairman of the Jacobson Group, has been named as one of the backers to have acquired the intellectual property of troubled footwear retailer Barratts.

Barratts entered administration in November 2013, with financial advisory firm Duff & Phelps appointed after mounting losses brought on by poor trading conditions.

All remaining Barratts stores have now ceased trading with around 850 redundancies.

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JANUARY 2014 | ADVICE | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 12

ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.

ADVICE: COULD THE SPEED OF YOUR WEBSITE BE DAmAGING SALES?

HEDLEY AYLOTT, CEO at Summit, specialist in online marketing and e-commerce and can be contacted via fieldworksmarketing.co.uk.

Research by online retail specialist Summit has found that slow websites cost UK retailers £8.5bn in 2013. For a retailer turning over £10m online, this could translate to a loss of almost £1m in revenue.

It paints a stark picture of lost opportunities as frustrated shoppers view fewer pages and therefore spend less money. The impact on brand perception is more difficult to quantify but no less damaging – frustrated shoppers have multiple ways to share their bad experiences.

With a minimum of 30 per cent of retailers’ site traffic coming from mobile devices – where connection speeds are slower – a fast website is crucial to keep this audience engaged and shopping.

The front-end of a website is often the biggest contributor to slowing down page load speed, and a creative feature that is heavy with CSS or beautifully designed pages with images that haven’t been optimised are usually the culprits.

The challenge for most online retailers is to find the right balance between brand, design, user experience and performance. Running the site through a performance-checker at various trading periods with very high peaks or low troughs will allow the current speed to be evaluated and measured against the industry three-second benchmark.

Hosting also plays a role in site performance and, as retailers, particularly those in fashion and apparel, expand internationally, they need to keep speed in mind when establishing their hosting infrastructure.

Retailers can deploy content across multiple, geographically dispersed servers to make pages load faster from the user’s perspective.

Lastly, including site speed in the daily and weekly performance metrics is crucial in raising the visibility of this issue. This metric can now be found in Google Analytics.

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WEB WATCH

WWW.WHISKEYGRADE.COm Formerly known as Anchor Division, Whiskey Grade is a more than a menswear blog. With future plans to launch a print version later this year, it seems co-founders Jamison Aweau, Mike Collins and Kyle Bak recognise there is still a need for good-quality, hard-copy publications. The ethos behind Whiskey Grade is to support upcoming brands in the US, using their own photography the majority of the time to make sure these new names are given their chance to shine.

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NEWS

PAYPAL AND EE ON BOARD AT BOXPARK MARKETPLACE Boxpark’s latest innovation, Boxpark Marketplace – which allows shoppers to buy and share items in-store, online and on their mobile – is set to welcome Paypal and EE on board this month.

“Paypal and Boxpark are levelling the playing field for independent retailers, giving them the chance to compete and win,” says Narik Patel, director of mobile merchant service Paypal.

“We’re enabling seamless, secure payments for Boxpark retailers across all their sales channels – web, mobile and in-store.”

Stuart Jackson, director of the CEO office at EE, adds, “We’re proud to be helping to bring the Boxpark Marketplace vision to life. Our super-fast 4G service will give Boxpark’s independent retailers and their customers access to the latest cutting edge technology, creating one of the most innovative retail experiences on the planet.”

PERSONAL SHOPPER TECHNOLOGY ARRIVES IN THE UK Technology designed to offer consumers alternative shopping options based on a simple image is expected to launch in the UK this year, having been trialled successfully in the US. FindSimilar – developed in the UK by Cortexica Vision Systems – mimics the way the brain processes an image to present a range of shopping possibilities to consumers, based on a camera phone snap of a catwalk image or a mannequin.

Search results generated by the software are based on a combination of pattern, style, colour and overall design, and allow the consumer to find a similar style that is more accessibly priced, or simply closer to their personal taste.

“For a retailer, having an app powered by our software is like putting your own shop assistant into a competitor’s store,” says Iain McCready, CEO of Cortexica. “We all recognise that deep feeling of frustration after hunting for an item of clothing that we’ve seen or admired, or the experience of finding something and wishing we could find a better or sometimes more affordable alternative. Our software is the answer to these perennial problems.”

JANUARY 2014 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 14

RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry.

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VIEWPOINT JEREmY CLAYTON is the managing director of Javelin in Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk. He is a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB)

M AIL CLOTHIN G SECTOR SET TO EXPER IEN CE CON TINUED GROW T H The UK clothing and footwear sectors will see further growth up until 2019, according to a forecast report by Verdict Research.

The male market, in particular, will offer the greatest growth opportunities, while the clothing and footwear industry as a whole will grow by 22 per cent.

While this is certainly a positive turn for the industry, the report indicates that the mainstream market will struggle, with retailers who offer “mass market trends and uninspiring websites” falling victim to the trading conditions.

Population growth is set to aid sales further, with the population of the UK expected to grow by 2.2m over the next five years, while childrenswear is also forecast to experience growth as the number of 0 to 14 year olds increases.

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IN BRIEF LONDON LAUNCH FOR ITALIAN ACCESSORY LABEL PIQUARDO Premium leather accessory label Piquardo will open its first London store next month on the capital’s Regent Street. The brand, which offers handbags, luggage and leather accessories, will consider other options once its debut store has opened and consumer reaction is measured. The luxury label currently has over 100 stores across Europe and Asia, and will look outside London for potential stores in the next two years.

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RETAIL TRUST GRAND SCOTTISH BALL RAISES OVER £100,000 The annual Retail Trust Grand Scottish Ball took place last month, welcoming over 300 guests and raising over £100,000 for the charity dedicated to all those who work in the retail sector. Held in the Glasgow Hilton hotel, the night was attended by some of the biggest names in retail including Matalan, House of Fraser, New Look and Harvey Nichols.

The fundraiser included a dinner, live music and charity tombola. After speeches by John Amabile and Retail Trust’s CEO Richard Boland, guests were invited to donate funds to Retail Trust.

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Autumn/winter 2013 is our first full winter season with Armani Jeans and Hugo Boss and thankfully they’ve been moving really well.

For me, the appeal of Armani Jeans is that it’s been strong across the categories. The feedback we’ve received from our customers is that they love the quality of the fabrics and the fit. Those details are really important to us and it’s a concern when a well-loved brand shows signs of weakening on that criteria.

Barbour has a phenomenal check-out here as one of our major brands, but I have had cause for concern recently with a few styles arriving with ill-fitting sizes. I very much hope that they have these issues remedied for next season.

As retailers, I’m sure that we all felt a sigh of relief as the weather turned colder this November after such a mild start. We were really counting on it and saw the effects as it drove sales, especially in outerwear. Carharrt parkas and blazers from Ted Baker and Guide have been very popular and have a crossgenerational appeal. We have the “One Directioners” sporting their blazer with scarf and jeans and the older man who is updating his blazer as a wardrobe staple.

Just before the Christmas season gathered pace, we gave the menswear department a mild-facelift and the result is an antique, almost castle-like feel to the floor. We brought in some tribal rugs to inject a richer tone to the space and mounted a few of our stag heads around too. A festive ambience was provided by candles burning throughout the store, some scented with winter spices.

It was a great backdrop for the gift tables, which displayed our add-on accessories from the likes of Armani and Ted Baker plus a few select books. The books at Javelin have been a surprise hit with our customers in recent years. The adult parody of the children’s classic Going on a Bear Hunt (renamed Going on a Bar Hunt), has been a particular favourite. Let’s all hope, in the words of the original that, in 2014, “we’re going to catch a big one!” www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

JANUARY 2014 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 15

SHOPPED: ELEmENTS How did Christmas trading compare to the year before?

For Christmas just gone we matched our 2012 figures in store, but our online sales were up 75 per cent. We’ve put a lot of work into growing this side of the business and the momentum has steadily grown throughout the year.

— Did the shopping hit later than usual?

There wasn’t a big surge in trade – in fact, it sometimes felt a little flat.

However, we were fortunate to have some big purchases. The people who came in wanted to JONNY GEORGE BUYER, ELEMENTS, spend rather than just browse.

NORWICH — What brands and products have been strong?

Farah Vintage has been performing extremely well – well-designed, simple product at a good price. Stocking fillers like Homey slippers always perform well. Elvine and Parka London outerwear have also had good sell-throughs – particular impressive as it has been a very mild winter. Supreme Being has been brilliant on tees and, in particularly, its sweaters – great designs and fit.

— What's your outlook for trading this spring/summer?

Positive, but realistic. Business is still tough but we are working harder than ever as we look to broaden our online sales. On the high street I think it’s slowly getting better, but it’s going to be a slow process. We have lots of new brands being introduced for s/s 14, which I think is healthy, as the brand mix keeps moving forward and hopefully interests established and new customers alike.

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IN FOCUS: NUmBER SIx 6 DRAY WALK, THE OLD TRUmAN BREWERY, LONDON, E1 6QL.

ESTABLISHED: 2009 BRANDS: ANDERSON BELTS, BARBOUR, C6, FILSON, LA PAZ, MUSEUM, OLIVER SPENCER, OUR LEGACY, REEBOK, UNIVERSAL WORKS

STRONG SALES FOR NEXT SEE IN CR EA SE IN PROFIT FOR ECAST High-street retailer Next has increased its full-year profit forecast after experiencing a thriving Christmas sales period.

Sales rose 11.9 per cent between 1 November and 24 December compared with the same period last year, which the company said was “significantly” beyond its own expectations.

This is the second time Next has raised its annual profit guidance in the last six months, and is now estimating its full-year profits to be between £684m and £700m.

However, the economy as a whole, including the issue of the lack of wage growth across the country, was a focus for the firm in its latest statement.

“The problem of little or no growth in real earnings looks set to persist for some time, and we cannot see any reason to expect a significant increase in total consumer spending in the year ahead,” says a spokesperson for Next.

“We are also wary that any return to significant economic growth is likely to result in rising interest rates which, in turn, is likely to moderate spending of those with mortgages.”

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IN BRIEF

Tucked away in the heart of East London, Number Six is best known for its excellent selection of sought-after casual menswear. Number Six opened its doors at the Truman Brewery in late 2009 and before that was a successful online store, When We Were Casuals, which garnered a loyal and sizeable customer base. Throughout its existence as a menswear shopping destination, Number Six has undergone a few facelifts and a recent change of hands in ownership. The shop was bought from Mark Batista (who started the business) by Jake Hardy, who had designed, built and maintained the website from the off. “When the opportunity came up to take on the whole store it was a challenge I felt could not be missed,” says Hardy, who took over in full on 1 October 2013.

Number Six claims to be the best in menswear retail by offering great brands including La Paz and C6, combined with a feel-good shopping experience. Hardy believes that innovation is the key to success and likes to tick as many boxes in this area as possible. The website is fully responsive on all devices including Android and iOS 7 and offers a Click & Collect service which is easy for consumers to navigate. Customers can also tour the store virtually on Google (http://bit.ly/no6tour).

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PETIT BATEAU LAUNCHES POP-UP Hot on the trail of its recent Paris popup in Marais, French contemporary label Petit Bateau is set to open its first London concept store in Shoreditch this year. With an undisclosed address at the time of going to print, the store will open on 14 February and will stay open for one month, catering for both menswear and womenswear.

In collaboration with landscape architects, Wayward Plants, the pop-up store will capture the classic Parisian style the brand has become renowned for since its launch in 1893.

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JANUARY 2014 | TRENDS | 17

FORECASTING THE FUTURE Trend agency Trendstop.com focuses on early consumer analysis, helping you to add trend confidence to your buying decisions. For autumn/winter 2014-15, it gives an exclusive look at some of the key concepts emerging across colour, print, apparel, accessories and themes.

— C O LO U R : K I NGF I SHE R T E AL A deep green tinted teal surfaces across clothing and accessory styles this season, lending a new sophistication to modern tailoring and long-line outerwear. Additionally, luxe fabrics give a new richness, as seen in polished leather pieces such as Jil Sander bags and Salvatore Ferragamo gloves.

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WOOYOUNGMI CARVEN SALVATORE FERRAGAMO JIL SANDER

1 MUGLER 2 BIKKEMBERGS 3 KENZO

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APPAR E L: F O R M AL SPO RTS BLO C K SHI RT Formal shirting makes a statement with sportive colour blocking this season, as contrast panels surface across sleeves and shoulders. An ideal look for both officewear and evening occasions, contrast panels pop in bold colours, adding interest to conventional shapes. Contrast sleeves are key for an athletic feel.

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JANUARY 2014 | TRENDS | 18

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VIKTOR & ROLF CHRISTIAN LACROIX PHILLIP LIM VALENTINO

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The ever-popular camo print is updated with abstract and irregular designs, infusing menswear with a relaxed yet refined finish. It’s a key look for autumn/winter knits, as seen in monochrome at Christian Lacroix and Viktor & Rolf. Other styles appear in luxurious camo-blocked outerwear complete with furry lapels, as well as fold-over leather bags in elegant blue tones.

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DIOR HOMME RYNSHU BALMAIN MAINSAI NICOLE FARHI

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1 AC C E SSO R I E S: SU I T I NG HO LDALL Practical holdalls are given a classic appeal with traditional suiting textures, creating refined yet wearable must-have accessories. Gym bag straps and black contrast detailing add a sporty feel to bags, while brown wool designs go one step further to incorporate authentic formalwear elements such as collars or lapels.

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Originally predicted as a directional menswear theme for autumn/winter 2013-14, this trend will translate well into commercial collections for autumn/winter 2014-15. Traditionally associated with summer, nautical designs are transformed for winter in cold-weather wools and darker seasonal colours. Key pieces emerge in navy wool outerwear and chunky knit jumpers, while accessories take the shape of anchor motif jewellery, durable boots and seafaring suitcases.

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Trendstop works with leading retailers to ensure all key trends are encapsulated and translated appropriately for the target audience to maximise sales. Register your interest at www.trendstop.com, request a demo or download the Trendstop TrendTracker app. Join with your company email to receive exclusive professional content.

JANUARY 2014 | REPORT | 19

THE ONLY WAY IS UP: BOOSTING YOUR BUSINESS FROm WITHIN Thierry Bayle, founder of business consultancy Global Fashion management, looks at how the way we work can make a huge difference to the profitability of a fashion retail business.

— You’re desperately trying to move a/w 13 stock before the s/s 14 goods arrive. You’re probably also working on some marketing ideas to boost sales once the new stock is on the floor. Life on the shop floor is busy, but let’s take a second and discover a few tips that will continue to work long after the fresh goods have started to look tired.

Let’s start with the vision and strategy for your business. Is your master plan in your head or have you also committed it to paper? It needs to be written down so you can refer to it at frequent intervals and also update or adapt it as necessary.

This will keep you on track, remind you why you adopted this approach and keep your eyes on the prize. Then there’s the question of focus. This is where you share your vision and strategy with your team, so that you are all singing from the same song sheet. Make sure that the sales team know and understand your vision and strategy for the business. Why? Because if they don’t understand what you are trying to do or why, how can you expect them to help you? It’s important to revisit the objectives regularly, to check that you and your team are meeting them. Reminding them why you are following a particular path will help to focus them and help them to own their job, not just rent it. The result should be significantly more engaged and motivated staff and, hopefully, better profits. you’re sceptical? Recently, I worked with a menswear shop where the owner was having problems motivating his sales team. I talked to the sales staff, which told me, “It’s him and us – he sits in the office out the back with his computer and we don’t know what’s going on. We don’t even know if we’ll have jobs this time next week.” I explained this to the owner and we organised a meeting where he talked the sales team through his strategy and explained to them what he was trying to do. He was also asked to work on it weekly with the team. Eureka! After two months, things had improved enormously. Staff motivation had changed dramatically and total sales per staff and conversion rates had increased – his sales figures were starting to look healthier. See what I mean?

Having established vision and strategy, it’s important to make sure you have processes in place so the team – and you – know precisely, according to your minimum standards and values, how to handle an angry customer, collect customer data such as mobile, email, first name, date of birth and so on. A process is also required to handle faulty or late goods coming from the brands you are buying. Make sure all the tasks that are important in the business have a clear process.

Staff training and motivation plays a key role in the success of a retail business. In any job, people need to know exactly what is expected of them. As well as telling them, it needs to be

written down as a job description (or to-do list) in order to provide clear guidelines on what they should be doing and how you want them to do it.

On the training front, don’t assume anything.

What may be second nature to you may simply not occur to your staff. Check that everyone has the right tools and skills for the job with regular training sessions. Focus on one topic at a time and keep these sessions low-key to avoid alienating more experienced members of the team. Make sure they are followed up with some careful observation of the training in action – praise them when they perform well; comment and correct constructively where necessary. Training needs to be regular in order to be effective, with the messages repeated at regular intervals.

Ask your team for their input to generate sales ideas – they know your customers as well as you do and will appreciate being consulted. It pays to accept that you might not always be right.

One retailer I know stocks a particular dress brand. It’s increasingly hard to sell, but he doesn’t want to change it – he claims his clients still want the brand. His staff disagrees and thinks he should update the dress offering. Sometimes you need to listen to your team, be open to new ideas and look closely at how your customer base is evolving.

Scary as it may sound, measuring productivity, yours and that of your staff, can help to boost profitability. In order to measure sales productivity over time, you need to be able to set markers so that you can track progress. Without these, you can’t accurately see how it develops. However, before you start designing charts and spreadsheets, it’s worth bearing these points in mind – the members of staff need to know exactly what their job entails and what they should be doing – does everyone have a job description? They need to know how to do their job – have you trained them?

They need to know why they are doing it – have you shared your vision and values for the business with them?

When we talk about productivity in a retail environment, we mean the effectiveness of the sales staff. The bottom line here is did they sell, and how much? This needs to be broken down by factors such as: • How many customers came into the shop?

• How many sales were achieved (the conversion rate)?

• The average value per transaction – due to part-time employees, calculate it per hour worked • The average number of units per transaction One of our clients had three womenswear boutiques. While his sales in units were impressive, he wanted to boost sales in Pounds.

He brought in new brands to get his customers to

trade up, but little changed for the first half of the new season. It turned out that the sales team knew very little about the new stock and didn’t feel confident recommending it, although they certainly weren’t steering customers away from it.

We suggested that he took the time to work on product knowledge and styling issues with the team. At the same point the following season, the new brands were selling well and the monthly sales had increased in value by 18 per cent.

Finally, here are a few words about implementing changes (which is, broadly, what I’ve been talking about). When new ideas and plans are put in place, they will only work if they are followed through.

It only makes sense to change the way you work if it improves things. Allow for mistakes – this is how you learn, just don’t make too many. Look back over your history – examine incidents that may have resulted in your staff being reluctant to embrace change now. Set plans for change within the context of a long-term goal. The key thing with change is follow-through. It’s important to stay focused and maintain the momentum.

— Thierry Bayle, Tel: +44 (0) 20 8576 6233 Email: thierry@globalfashionmanagement.com Visit www.globalfashionmanagement.com Twitter @RetailFashion Global Fashion Management provides UK and continental European retailers a guaranteed success route to better managing their two greatest assets – stock and people. It has worked closely with retailers for 20 years, and has over 400 clients in Europe and the US.

JANUARY 2014 | INTERVIEW | 20

inTerVieW

raY keLVin ray kelvin, Ted Baker’s enigma of a ceo, and a cBe no less, has character in abundance, but rarely seems to talk to the press and still hides his face because he says, “it’s sexier to conceal than to reveal.”

But, for the launch of a short film showcasing the new men’s and women’s s/s 14 collections, he decided to take centre stage and field questions about the brand he’s built for the last 25 years. Tom Bottomley pulled up a chair.

— Tom Bottomley: Did you ever envisage when you started out that you’d have a global fashion brand?

Ray Kelvin: No, I can’t believe it. In my previous life, I was faceless supplier to the high street with womenswear. I felt I had to develop a brand to get on, because I was so frustrated as a designer. I was asked to make a ladies’ blouse, but “to do something a little bit different”, so I made one with three sleeves.

— TB: You initially started out just with Ted Baker men’s shirts, right?

RK: yes, I started out with a small shop in Glasgow making and selling men’s shirts, and slowly building a wholesale network – literally one at a time. Ian Draper came on board from day one as our sales agent and he’s still with us. As a company, we now employ something like 3,500 people around the world.

— TB: People began talking about the brand when you started selling in Harrods, how did that come about?

RK: It was 1989, a year after starting up, and I got a call from a Harrods buyer saying, “I’m Fiona Staniland from Harrods – we’ve seen your shirts in Glasgow and we love them.” I put the phone down because I thought it was someone messing me around. She phoned back and said, “We’ve seen

FounDer anD ceo TeD Baker

JANUARY 2014 | INTERVIEW | 21

your shirts and we’d like to do some business with you.” And that was it. I started with a small concession in Way In. Everything was small to begin with. I didn’t have big money.

— TB: Was there a significant time where you really established Ted Baker?

RK: In the late 80s and early 90s we had a big hit with a shirt. I found a fabric made out of viscose and rayon and turned it into a lot of money. I put my own mark on the fabric and called it Ted Knows It. It was worn by clubbers and ravers. I saw an opportunity and we did plains, prints, checks – everything in that fabric. We originally ordered 500 metres of fabric, which went to three million metres. That’s a lot of shirts. At the time, people were standing outside our shop in Covent Garden like there was a famine.

— TB: Things are a bit different now – when did you float the business?

RK: It was 17 years ago – in 1997. The company was valued at £58m. We made £4m profit on £14m turnover. The company today is valued at £950m, with a £350m turnover. We’re forecast to make £40m profit this year.

— TB: Has this growth come from your expansion overseas?

RK: Well, a good 35 per cent of our turnover on retail is now overseas. The Middle East and Asia are good for us, and we’ve just started going into department stores across Europe – the main players in Germany, Spain and so on – and it’s going very well.

— TB: is the uk still your strongest market?

RK: yes it is. In terms of our retail it represents 65 per cent of our business. But wholesale business represents 30 per cent of our overall business.

— TB: When you open stores, does it affect business with independents you may supply in the same towns?

RK: It shouldn’t. In fact, I think it benefits them.

When we have concessions in department stores, quite often people might see us there but then go to the independent instead because I just think they like the personal service. Often, they have different product, too. I love independents. I was once an independent menswear retailer, or at

least it was a family business where I worked on Saturdays and during school holidays. I also sometimes worked on markets such as Enfield and Hounslow selling women’s separates. My father had a small factory making women’s blouses.

Before that, my grandfather had a menswear shop called B Factor in Edmonton, and my mother was born upstairs. My grandmother was serving a customer for a suit when she went into labour, and she wouldn’t leave the customer! My uncle ended up taking over the business, and he also had a shop called Cheers in Enfield. When I worked there we sold brands such as Leroy, After Six, Levi’s, Falmer, Brutus, Honorbilt and Farah. It was the late 60s and the 70s. I still think about those days every day of the week. I loved it. We used to get all the Spurs and Arsenal footballers coming in, as well as local gangsters. Customers included players such as John Radford, Ray Kennedy, Mike England and Steve Perryman. I still see Steve now.

— TB: You produce all your own fabrics, is that an important factor to mark your product out from the crowd?

RK: The fabrics have always been the best, and we’ve always designed our own. I think that does mark us out. It’s also great quality. For the price it’s unbelievable. Twice the product at half the price. We even have hand-embroidered dresses that are £2,000 but, from a high-end design house, it would be more like £6,000.

That’s always been my philosophy, to produce things that are fantastic quality. Nobody else will have our prints because we supply the suppliers with what we want. That goes for our licensed product, too, such as watches, shoes, eyewear and luggage – which isn’t out just yet. Everything is designed in-house.

— TB: are any more store openings imminent?

RK: In a way, we’re going full circle because we’re launching a new flagship in Glasgow this spring. We have a store in Princes Square, but we’re moving to a bigger shop on Buchanan Street. It’s a better position and there’s greater footfall. They love us in Glasgow, and we love them.

— TB: You also now have nine barber shops, when did that start to happen?

RK: It has been unbelievable. We have Turkish partners, and have people queuing up day and night to be served. We first launched it three years ago in Holborn. There are now eight standalone shops, and one in a Ted Baker store. They’re called Ted’s Grooming Room, and we’re opening another one in Covent Garden imminently. We’re also selling grooming products – that I designed – to Boots. It’s going to be massive. We’re going to take on Wilkinson and Gillette for grooming products. Fragrances are also big time. Our business is very widespread, and that all comes under licensed income. We’re a big business, but we like to do things vertically. We do everything in-house as much as we possibly can, and we are claustrophobic in our management style.

— TB: Do you go round to your shops yourself?

RK: I still work in them. I was in our Covent Garden shop on Saturday. I sell men’s and womenswear.

What sort of reaction do I get from customers?

Well, I hug them, and they hug me, call me Ted and buy things. They say, “Can I take you out at the weekend?” And I say, “Only if I pay for myself!” I don’t tell them my name’s Ray, because they want to know that there is a Ted Baker. When I started out I used a different name in case I went bankrupt.

— TB: Do you still come up with the quirky windows?

RK: I used to, and still do, but I don’t come up with them all because I’ve got a team and I can’t do everything. I came up with the “cabinet re-shuffle” one, where there was a cabinet in the window with all the clothes shuffling inside.

Funny that I’m seeing the Chancellor of the Exchequer, George Osborne, tonight.

He’s invited people in business to go and talk to him because he has things he wants to share with us. I don’t mind him picking my brains either. After all, I’m a CBE, a Commander of the British Empire – I’ve got to give something back!

“The fabrics have always been the best, and we’ve always designed our own. I think that does mark us out. It’s also great quality. For the price it’s unbelievable”

JANUARY 2014 | PROMOTION | 22

neW innoVaTiVe BranDS. neW iDeaS in reTaiL. THe PLace To Do BuSineSS. 16-18 February 2014, nec Birmingham

PEREGRINE

BLADEN TIES

THE BRITISH BELT COMPANY

GIORDANO

For any menswear retailer in search of the new names and fresh new ideas that will take their business forward in 2014, next month’s edition of moda should be the most essential date on this season’s calendar. In four weeks’ time the show will be unveiling its most exciting line-up so far of brand new arrivals, alongside an unmissable programme of catwalk shows, expert seminars and industry debates featuring some of the leading names in UK independent retail.

CASA MODA

BE ST O F BR I T I SH

LI F E ST YLE AND C O NT E M PO R ARY

It’s not surprising that the UK’s national menswear show should be home to the season’s biggest selection of British brands but, with the Brit look still a major trend, retailers will be looking at established names with fresh eyes. Offering classic tailoring with a sharp contemporary twist will be the likes of Gibson London and maddox Street, teaming heritage fabrics with fitted shapes, while brands including Bladen, Gurteen, Douglas & Grahame and Brook Taverner offer their own take on the trends. British shirt specialist Double Two will also be unveiling its new collection, with heritage knitwear label Peregrine also a name to watch at this season’s show. The British Belt company, meanwhile, favours British fabrics Harris Tweed and British millerain and use traditional skills that have been passed through generations.

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Moda remains the number one place in the UK to source the best in casual lifestyle brands, with new arrivals such as crew clothing and Boomerang joining the line-up alongside labels including camel active, Florentino and casa moda and raging Bull. you’ll also find a growing number of urban and active lifestyle brands at the show this season, including the autumn/winter 2014 collections from board-sport labels Billabong and Santa cruz.

Select, meanwhile, is once again the area dedicated to niche and directional menswear and footwear brands, and this season also features an expanded line-up of accessories labels. Look out for new lines from Gant, luxury hosiery from the likes of Pantherella and calvin klein and rock-inspired accessories from Fanpac, alongside new season’s clothing ranges from Guide, Swade, Gabicci Vintage and Peter Werth.

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JANUARY 2014 | PROMOTION | 23

M O DA AT YO U R F I NGE RT I PS

GE T YO U R STO R E R E TAI L F I T F O R T HE F U T U R E

BILLABONG

DR MARTENS

With more than 25 presentations taking place over the duration of the show, Moda is your number one chance to hear expert advice on all the latest innovations in retail, and get the inside story on some of the biggest successes in independent fashion.

Social media is one of the most cost-effective and measurable marketing tools available to businesses today, and yet there is still a lack of confidence in the marketplace to engage with this powerful tool. SEO and e-commerce solutions expert Jonny Ross will be looking at the best way for you to get the most out of various social media platforms including Twitter, Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest. The topic will also be covered by Simon Shepherd, director of strategic marketing network NXO, whose presentation, Smarter Marketing, will be a must see for any retailer with great ideas but finite resources.

Other highlights include David Abbott, director of Insight Best Practice, who will be taking an equally practical but no less inspirational approach to e-commerce with his seminar, Tips for Successful E-tailing. The presentation will provide ideas that every retailer selling online can implement and profit from.

Moda’s Big Industry Debate series returns for February, with two must-see debates taking place on the Sunday and Monday of the show. Sunday’s event will focus on the footwear industry, with a panel of leading retailers and industry experts debating the future of footwear retail. Monday, meanwhile, will see menswear’s finest taking to the stage with a look at how e-commerce has revolutionised business for some of the UK’s best independent stores.

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AU T U M N K I C K O F F

SUNDAY BE ST

Dr martens heads up the list of new arrivals at Moda Footwear, with the iconic British brand currently enjoying a major fashion renaissance, bringing its full men’s, women’s and kids’ collections to the show for the first time.

Debuting in Select is the footwear range from Gant, with the area also seeing the return of accupuncture. Elsewhere at the show, look out for new Portuguese footwear brand Paradigma, the return of Sorel and menswear retail favourites including Base London, John White, Loake and Barkers.

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If you’re visiting Moda on Sunday 16 February, make sure you dust off your finest threads as a team of undercover judges will be walking the aisles looking for Moda’s best dressed male. The winner, announced on the Hall 20 stage at 5pm, will be fully suited up courtesy of British menswear brand Gibson London.

This season’s Moda app is available to download now, delivering everything you need to know about the UK’s largest trade fashion exhibition directly into the palm of your hand.

Regularly updated between now and the show, the app features full exhibitor listings, plans of every sector of the show, details and times for all seminars and events, and will even show you the fastest route between the brands you want to see to ensure you get the most out of your time of the show. Simply visit the app store and search for Moda Events.

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M O DA O NLI NE

As well as being the complete guide to all Moda shows, the Moda website – moda-uk.co.uk – is also the place to find the latest news from exhibitors, find out more about both new arrivals and established brands and arrange appointments at the show. By registering free of charge to use the site’s Community zone, you’ll be able to arrange appointments online, request additional information from suppliers ahead of the show, and network with brands 365 days a year. Simply head to the site and click Community.

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For information on all the latest signings, full details of the catwalk and seminar programmes and to register for your free ticket visit moda-uk.co.uk.

CrĂŠation Gross GmbH & Co. KG // HoubirgstraĂ&#x;e 7 // 91217 Hersbruck // Phone +44 (0) 207 937 58 63 E-Mail: g.remmler@carlgross.com // carlgross.com

JANUARY 2014 | GENT | CONTENTS | 25

G E N T

SIGNATURE STYLE Luxury Italian tailoring label Pheres returns for autumn/winter 2014 with a series of deconstructed jacket options, taking a more casual direction to last season.

Using a mixture of traditional craftsmanship and British bespoke tailoring techniques, the latest collection is set to cement the brand’s presence further in the premium menswear market. The new season also sees the label extend its offer into handmade ties in five and seven folds, silk and cashmere scarves and linen and blend shawls, with each product coming with the signature of the designer.

Pheres also offers a bespoke tailoring service – where each item is fitted, cut and sewn to the shopper’s measurements – with a selection of silk, wool, cashmere and Egyptian cotton, designed to be the epitome of luxury fashion.

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Product news

33

A casual affair

36

New innings for Kent & Curwen

Rounding up the key stories this month

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In-season

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Survival of the knitted

Fisherman’s friend The future of Johnstons of Elgin

The success of lifestyle label Casamoda The next step for the classic British brand

JANUARY 2014 | GENT | PRODUCT | 26

RADAR

PRODUCT NEWS

Spotlighting style.

Inside menswear.

BAC K TO BASI C S

REGENT ESTABLISHED: 2006 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Slim, tailored silhouettes very much at home in both the boardroom and the pub, catering for the 35-55 year old man.

— HISTORY: British tailoring label Regent was founded eight years ago and has since grown into a complete wardrobe offer for the male contemporary fashion market.

Regent, a modern clothing label with British heritage at its core, will make its debut at London trade show Jacket Required this season, showcasing its autumn/winter 2014 offering.

Established in 2006 by designer Jason Regent, the latest collection draws inspiration from Regent’s own grandfather, Frank. “A man of great character but moderate means, he emulated the traditions of high English fashion he saw all around him, but always added a slightly worn and roguish panache of his own,” says Regent.

Utilising worsted wools and tweeds from mills across yorkshire and Scotland, the collection offers suits, jackets and shirts cut with a slim silhouette – jackets are designed with a slim sleeve and shape in the side seams, trousers with more room in the waist and slim through the back leg.

With a design ethos that has a directional edge whilst being deliberately understated with subtle choices of cloth, it is in the attention to detail where the collection really comes into its own.

Complementing the latest range is a series of handmade ties, featuring butterflies – inspired by the Regent’s son’s fascination with insects. www.regenttailoring.co.uk —

For autumn/winter 2014, men’s contemporary footwear label Ohw? builds on its back-to-basics aesthetic with a new range of clean, pared-down designs which let the craftsmanship, materials and detailing shine through.

A new capsule collection features three designs on an architectural, sports-inspired sole unit with a leather range, aggressive tread and a hand-sprayed speckled finish. Silhouettes in this collection, meanwhile, include a high-cut plain-front boot, a plain-front shoe with hidden lace and an open-lace shoe style. Key colours are petrol blue, cordovan and black.

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SPL ASHE S O F C O LO U R Shirt specialist Jupiter presents an extensive collection this season, with the focus firmly on a more subdued colour palette – designed to work seamlessly with the wearer’s current wardrobe.

Autumn/winter 2014 brings with it a palette comprising navy, marine, violet, taupe, camel, brick, burgundy and khaki, while flashes of brighter tones come from orange, red, jade and topaz.

Attention to detail is key, with contrast stitching, matching buttons with contrasting threads, colour matching trims in inner cuffs and inside colour bands, adding a certain panache to the brand’s latest offering.

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JANUARY 2014 | GENT | PRODUCT | 27

ON TREND Seasonal extras: Tie clips

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1: THOMPSON LONDON price on request 020 7384 8336 2: PAUL SMITH RRP £55 0800 023 4006 3: SIMON CARTER £8.90 020 8683 4475 4: ETON SHIRTS £49 020 7495 7988 5: TATEOSSIAN £25 0207 384 8300

AN E NGLISH TRADI TI ON Pantherella, the iconic English sock label, returns this season with a comprehensive collection of stylish and high quality designs. Business Classics are a firm staple in the brand’s offer, focusing on yarns and textures, while also drawing inspiration from its archives to offer vintage styles and colour palettes.

The Business Modern range looks to more modern graphic design with polka dots, stripes, checks, houndstooth and geometric prints in Merino wool. Colours include cumin, steel blue, sunshine yellow, bright green and traditional calico and black.

For a luxury element, this season sees the return of the Escorial range encompassing classic Birdseye jacquards, motif ribs and houndstooth patchwork checks in Merino wool. The Leisure Cashmere collection, meanwhile, sees argyle, Fair Isle, Birdseye, simple stripes and Prince of Wales check, and the Classic Cashmere collection offers solid colours in classic tones.

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BranD To WaTcH

BEN SHERMAN

ESTABLISHED: 1963 — SIGNATURE STYLE: The brand’s DNA is infused with mod heritage, retaining its signature detailing such as box-back pleats, back-collar buttons and locker-loops.

— HISTORY: Iconic British label Ben Sherman has weathered many seasons, and is re-emerging as a brand to reconsider this season under the new direction of CEO Mark Maidment.

under the helm of new ceo and former creative director mark maidment, British mod label Ben Sherman returns to its roots this a/w 14 season.

Split into four key themes, the latest drop blends signature styles, fabrics and prints. The first story, Heritage DNA, encapsulates characteristics of classic Ben Sherman including the parka coat and the Harrington, which has been fused with a mac to form the Harrington Mac. A 2-finger collar, meanwhile, has been applied to jersey polo shirts, which blends a classic feature with an alternative fabric.

The second trend, British Outdoors, features a quilted bomber jacket, roll-neck sweaters, waffled cardigans and mouline knitted jumpers, alongside a brand new foliage print for T-shirts and shirts.

British Sartorial, meanwhile, is the third trend to drop for the new season, and sees the return of the oversized check applied to wool car coats, sitting on top of sharp tailoring and twill trousers. Trench coats are a highlight of the collection, while accessories reflect the trend with leather wallets and classic holdall bags.

Finally, the fourth and final trend takes the iconic Ben Sherman look and creates a more casual relaxed shape, featuring crew-neck jumpers over check shirts and selvedge denim, all of which can be found at this month’s Jacket Required trade show. www.bensherman.com —

JANUARY 2014 | GENT | PRODUCT | 28

JOULES £33.35 01858 435255

BEN SHERMAN £28.80 020 7812 5300

GUIDE LONDON £32 020 748 1111

NOTCH LONDON £32 07773 775092

SAMSOE & SAMSOE £45.50 0845 862 2056

CAMEL ACTIVE PRICE ON REQUEST 0161 234 0999

CRO JACK £45 01902 711823

FISHERmAN’S FRIEND The appeal of the timeless cable knit remains for another winter and, while button-up cardigans stand on their own, it’s the fisherman’s jumper that’s key to your knitwear offer.

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BARBOUR £73.75 0800 009 988

EDWIN £36 WWW.EDWIN-EUROPE.COM

Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale

BOOMERANG £43 020 7603 4500

JANUARY 2014 | GENT | PROFILE | 30

SURVIVAL OF THE KNITTED Cashmere specialist Johnstons of Elgin tumbled into the red in 2012 as it suffered a hangover from a milder 2011/12 winter in key markets including the UK. It has since achieved “significant recovery”, following in-roads into new product categories – particularly across accessories – more focused higher-end private label work and raising the brand’s profile in its own right. Tom Bottomley finds out more from managing director Nick Bannerman.

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JANUARY 2014 | GENT | PROFILE | 31

in 2012, Johnstons of elgin had a pretty tough time, what with a significant reforecasting from a major client after a mild winter, and efficiency problems with its woven plant taking its toll. But 2013 saw a re-focus on the type of work the brand is taking on – being much more selective with whom it is working with on the private label front, as well as investing further to develop high end accessories. Greater emphasis on Johnstons of Elgin’s own label has also been key.

“The brand has been around since 1797 and is still family owned,” says managing director Nick Bannerman. “Heritage is very much in vogue at the minute, and it’s obviously good news for us.

But it’s not something that is just ‘of the moment’, because there has been a real sea-change in the last couple of years with bigger and better-known brands ‘on-shoring’ again. They’re bringing back production from overseas, whether it’s been Eastern Europe or Asia, because their clients at the higher end don’t want to open up a product and see it’s been made anywhere other than the UK and, in terms of cashmere and fine wools, specifically Scotland.”

Bannerman says the long-term view is all about investing in the communities in which the brand sits – in the north and south of Scotland.

“We also have offices around the world, allowing us to take the brand forward in a controlled manner, so we can get good exposure with Johnstons of Elgin product while also providing a good service for the wonderful array of private label work we do. We don’t want to step on our customers’ toes, so it’s an interesting balance that we now have to find.”

Bannerman notes that they have been having a lot of interest of late from potential new customers for private label, but they have had to be selective. “We’re looking at our own capacities at the minute and making sure we take on the right business.”

The company, which employs around 800 people and has manufacturing plants at Elgin and Hawick, declared that 2013 had “seen a significant recovery” and that turnover was expected to exceed £50m again in the financial year to end of December.

The Johnstons of Elgin accounts signalled that the tumble in turnover in 2012 resulted from a drop in UK sales. UK turnover fell from £38.16m in 2011 to £33.3m in 2012. Turnover from exports rose from £13.04m to £13.53m. The company noted that the relatively mild winter of 2011/12 in the UK had followed cold winters in 2009/10 and 2010/11. Subsequently, orders were down and it obviously took the company a little by surprise, with carry-over stock held by many of the brand’s customers.

Therefore, 2012 was a time to take a look at what could be changed, improved or added to the

business’ bow. In their report on the 2012 accounts, the directors of Johnstons highlighted growth in business with Japan and French luxury branded customers. The company's customers include Hermès and Chanel. “With those kind of associations, others recognise that we are the best you can get if you want to make in the UK,” says Bannerman. “The knitwear is the biggest area, of course, but our knitted accessories are also a big growth area. There are also woven accessories, home interiors and cloth.”

As such, Bannerman says they are a one-stop shop for many private-label brands,” as well as now being able to push their own brand at the higher end of the market. “We’ve often been known as the name behind the name,” he says.

“We’re a big supplier to Burberry on the woven side, for instance. And private label has probably represented 75-80 per cent of our business. Now we’re affirming our own branded presence. Not massively – just in the right areas, to bring us out of the shadows, without bringing us purely front and centre saying ‘it’s all about us’.”

For Bannerman it’s much more about steady growth. “There is a niche for the Johnstons label, but niche doesn’t have to be small,” he says. “It’s as big as fits the market.” As an example, they have done work for Mulberry, which Bannerman says is “a niche brand, but still a big brand.” Luxury being key.

“We want to gain some ground with our own name, yes, but not at the expense of those who we currently work with – that’s the secret,” says Bannerman. He also says they have taken some business away from customers they have dealt with in the past on private label, who do not sit at the higher end of the market. “That’s created some space to fill with our own brand, and some newer clients who are bringing production back on-shore and are happy to pay the premiums that made in the UK brings with it.”

A classic cashmere Johnstons of Elgin knit wholesales for around £100, so around £250 retail in the UK. They have also recently made a knitted cashmere jacket, which wholesaled for more like £600 (and they produce jacket cloths for the likes of Lora Piana and Kiton). “The price isn’t an issue, but it’s even less of an issue when we’re dealing with customers overseas because the provenance is more attractive,” says Bannerman.

The cashmere jacket Bannerman refers to apparently uses up to three kilos of cashmere yarn. “It’s a heavy outdoor jacket and a pure luxurious piece,” he says. “And I think that’s where

perhaps we’re having more confidence – to say we make beautiful classics, and we also have heritage pieces from the archive that are very much an iconic Johnstons ‘look’ that we’re concentrating more on.”

According to Bannerman, the current Johnstons of Elgin business is split 60/40 in favour of women’s to men’s across the group, but within different markets it does vary – also with the variation in knitted product as opposed to woven.

“Across men’s and women’s products we’re now concentrating on targeting the higher end boutiques and independents,” he says. They have also got Johnstons branded product in the likes of Harrods and Harvey Nichols – with the new knitted accessories.

“We’ve accelerated the accessories side in the last three years, investing in the best kit available in the UK, and combining it with a lot of hand-sewing skills and linking skills,” says Bannerman. “So you’re getting a combination of generations of experience of hand-skills, with the best machinery allied to design.”

What’s interesting, and indeed what is surely helping this new-found growth, is Johnstons of Elgin is now having clients, such as the couture houses they are working with, coming to them and pushing the boundaries more. “It’s an old established industry in textiles in Scotland generally, but perhaps we’ve been resistant to take it further in the past,” says Bannerman.

“The Italians, for instance, are very open to trying new things, but perhaps in Scotland we’ve been more reticent. It’s changed over the last two or three years, and we’ve pushed the boundaries of what we can manufacture. So we’ve got the traditional pieces, but also some technical pieces and some lighter-weight pieces. We’re now making fantastic cashmere socks, gloves, hats and scarves, which means we’re making about 10,000 pieces a week when you combine them all. We’re also doing gloves for iPod use, which have a conductive yarn in the fingers so you can use touch screens without taking your gloves off.”

In terms of taking the business forward and looking at new ways to grow, it seems though that Johnstons of Elgin has very much “taken the gloves off” and rolled up sleeves on the factory floor, though. When the going gets tough the old school needs to inject some new school, and 2012’s jitters may well have been the wake up call this long established name needed to not only survive, but thrive in the future. www.johnstonscashmere.com

“The brand has been around since 1797 and is still family owned.

Heritage is very much in vogue at the minute, and it’s obviously good news for us. But it’s not something that is just ‘of the moment’”

JANUARY 2014 | GENT | PROFILE | 33

a caSuaL aFFair casamoda, along with younger sister label Venti, has been making steady ripples in uk waters for a number of seasons with its smart-casual lifestyle shirt and knitwear offering. With the opening of its flagship uk and irish showroom in 2013 and the launch of an impressive logistics centre this year, it seems now is the time to sit up and watch the German label create waves.

—

CASAMODA

Developing your product offer to suit the everchanging retail market is no mean feat, yet understanding and reacting to consumer needs is something German shirt label casamoda does, and does well.

Preparing to exhibit for the 12th time at Moda – the UK’s largest trade fair – with what is set to be its biggest stand build to date, the brand is driving into the autumn/winter 2014 season with confidence.

Last year saw the opening of a brand new showroom in Ireland run by Christian Lawlor and father John Lawlor. And, with potential plans to open a similar space in the UK, the next 12 months will see the label continue to cement itself further in the independent retail market.

Visiting the label’s new showroom space in Dublin, its brand message is cohesive and clear to see throughout – with large branding, a mixture of sleek stone and wooden fittings and sample duos merchandised in delivery drops, the showroom presents the Casamoda lifestyle, not just the name.

Separated between Casamoda on the top level of the two-story showroom and its younger, slimmer-cut sister label Venti on the lower ground floor, its evident that, when it comes to this brand, no corners are cut – quintessentially German, if you like.

Established in 1924 in Oldenburg, Germany, the brand has 90 years of experience in textiles and cloth. Specialising in casual (split into Sport and Club) and business shirts (featuring both business and business

premium), as well as knitwear and accessories, the brand’s USP lies in its attention to detail and high quality, all the while retaining margins attractive to independents riding the sectors choppy waters.

“Casamoda and Venti offer an excellent quality at a good price, allowing retailers to have a good margin,” says Muriel Nègre-Wolmeringer, head in international sales. “Even though we count ourselves as a lifestyle collection, our biggest strength lies in our casual shirt and knitwear categories. All our shirts are still produced in our own factories in Europe, including a factory in Macedonia, using designs created by us and therefore exclusive to us.”

Summing up the competition, NègreWolmeringer explains, “We sit confidently alongside other smart-casual lifestyle brands that are on the market at the moment.

“Gant and Tommy Hilfiger, for example, are both very strong brands but, in some cases, retailers struggle to get full margins on these products because of price,” he continues. “We aim to provide a quality smart-casual look, suited to this sort of customer, but that has a competitive retail price offering a strong margin.”

Alongside the debut of a brand new showroom, the last 12 months have also seen the opening of a new logistics centre in its native Germany, with the capacity of hold two million shirts.

“From the start of this year we are working with one of the most modern warehouses in Europe,” says Nègre-Wolmeringer. “This

investment is the basis for not only our long-term development in Germany, but also in our export market.”

With over 250 stockists to date across the UK and Ireland, Casamoda’s popularity with independents sits with its comprehensive NOS stock programme – stronger this season than ever before. The new NOS collection includes a multi-coloured check in three colourways – natural and blue, light blue and blue, and red and blue.

Another highlight includes the denim shirt with check facings, contrasting tapes and specially developed buttons.

A new addition to the collection is the Casamoda Modern Fit, produced in line with the market demand for a “‘fitted torso”. Suitable for smaller sizes, the chest, back, shoulder and arm widths have all been reduced while the back length, waist and hem width remain the same.

Sister label Venti, meanwhile, will welcome categories such as Venti Black Label – city shirts made of non-iron fabric and a slim-fit shape; Limited Edition, comprising premium fabrics, 60sinspired prints and luxe detailing; and Venti Tartan, a new category this season that sees the introduction of Scottish checks based on various clan patterns.

The year ahead will no doubt bring many challenges for brands and retailers alike and, while Casamoda is no less bulletproof than anyone else, its reactive nature and response to retailer demand is what makes it a name to catch.

— www.casamoda.com

JANUARY 2014 | GENT | PROFILE | 36

NEW INNINGs fOr KENT & CUrWEN Classic British brand Kent & Curwen, famous for making university, club and regimental ties and traditional cricket jumpers, is being given a fresh makeover by Us company and licence-holder British Heritage Brands – complete with a new 1,600 sq ft savile row shop. Tom Bottomley gets hit for six by the label’s new image.

—

At the end of October last year, Kent & Curwen opened its brand new flagship shop at 2 savile row, next door to Gieves & Hawkes. It’s fitting for a brand that dates back to 1926, perhaps made even more fitting because savile row was indeed the meeting place of one Eric Kent and Dorothy Curwen in 1924.

Relaunched as a collection in autumn/winter 2013, with a concession in Harrods no less, Kent & Curwen is now licensed to British Heritage Brands, by owner Trinity Limited, the high-end luxury menswear subsidiary arm of Hong Kongbased Fung Holdings Limited, which also counts Gieves & Hawkes in its portfolio.

US-based British Heritage Brands now holds the licence to design, produce and sell

goods bearing the Kent & Curwen name in the Western Hemisphere. London is the first of several planned openings, with New York following in early spring 2014.

What began as a collection of ties and cricket sweaters has grown into one of the most storied sporting brands in England, long worn by members of the British Royal Family and Hollywood icons. The new store launch showcased the autumn/winter 2013 collection, which consisted of classic timeless pieces with a modern interpretation of fit and fabrication.

With an eye towards both the contemporary and traditional, fitted tailoring, sartorial outerwear, luxurious knitwear and selvedge jeans, Mr Kent would surely be choking on his cheese and

cucumber sandwich at the very thought of jeans. But it’s all in line with taking the stuffiness out of such an English classic brand and marketing it to a new conscientious customer who appreciates tradition but wants a modern-day take on it.

British Heritage Brands’ owner and president, Craig Reynolds, who is based in New York, says, “We started up in 2011 with the purpose of finding iconic British brands that needed the ‘dust blown off’, so to speak, and we wanted to bring them back to life for a modern consumer.

Kent & Curwen is the first label we have taken on.

A British brand born in 1926 that has not been significant in the marketplace in the UK and the US for many years. Our plan is to expand in both

JANUARY 2014 | GENT | PROFILE | 37

our own retail stores and in better department and speciality stores.” That’s independents to us Brits.

Reynolds says he currently jokes that they should be known as British Heritage Brand – no plural – as they currently have just Kent & Curwen signed up under licence. But there are opportunities to add other heritage labels to the portfolio in the future. “We are always on the lookout for great brands that could also have the dust blown off them and made relevant for today,” he says.

First and foremost, Reynolds sees great potential for Kent & Curwen, especially with the words “British” and “heritage” having such resonance on a wider global market. “Globally, the brand is not well-known,” he says. “There are a number of people who remember the label in England from its earlier incarnation and, of course, it is well-known in Asia. We hope to raise the awareness through our partnerships with the best stores and the opening of flagships in major cities, as well as through comprehensive advertising campaigns in both traditional platforms and via digital media.”

The offer of ties and cricket jumpers has, of course, been expanded to include all classifications of menswear. While production is no longer in England, Reynolds says they do buy fabrics from a number of British mills.

“Our look is a blending of sportswear with some tailoring, so we have an emphasis on outerwear, knits and shirts with a good amount of jackets and suits to bring it all together,” says Reynolds. “Our target market is a man in his mid30s. Jackets go for £650 retail, knitwear £300£400, ties £75 and shirts around £125. We showcased for the first time at London Collections: Men, and we are very much looking to build our distribution and presence in the UK

market for autumn/winter 2014.”

Prior to his current role, Reynolds was the chief apparel merchant for Converse, having launched the apparel division of the brand. Before that, he spent 15 years at Tommy Hilfiger, helping to build the label globally. “I began my career in retail at a wonderful department store in the US called Burdines, which is sadly no longer around,” he says. Perhaps there’s a certain sense of irony in his comment in that British Heritage Brands is very much trying to make sure Kent & Curwen does stay around, albeit in this new, more aggressive and design-led format that befits the 21st century.

If Mr Kent wouldn’t be choking on his sandwich with news that the brand he started with Miss Curwen (incidently they married in 1932) now making selvedge jeans, she would surely be spluttering out her Earl Grey tea on it no longer being English owned. But that’s a trend that, alas, continues with many an old British name, be it Belstaff, Matchless, Baracuta or another old Savile Row legendary name, Hardy Amies (Fung Capital being behind that particular acquisition too). It seems the potential of the whole Brit thing is there for the taking, but no Brits are doing the taking. Nonetheless, it’s good to see that old British names are being taken forward and given new leases of life.

In truth, it’s a long time since Eric Kent and Dorothy Curwen were involved in the business.

Kent died of tuberculosis at the age of 46 in February 1939, before the outbreak of WWII. His nephew, Jack Kent, started working at the company in 1943. Kent & Curwen had involvement in the London 1948 Olympics. Dubbed the Austerity Games, as so broke was the UK after WWII, Kent & Curwen, via British merchants Vanners, created club ties for English delegates.

Two other heritage brands still in operation today also contributed – Coxmoore made knits for the British hockey team and Walsh provided sprinting shoes.

Dorothy Curwen retired from the business in 1968. Jump forward to 1981 and Kent & Curwen supplied the wardrobe for the principal cast of the Oscar-winning film Chariots of Fire. British

heritage had never been so popular, especially in the Far East and America. But by 1982 Kent & Curwen was taken over by Swiss trading company Giselle. Through the merger, Kent & Curwen was introduced to the huge Japanese company D’Urban, with whom a trading agent was formed. Kent & Curwen subsequently launched its autumn collection in Japan. The range included (in addition to the ties and knits) shirts, jackets, trousers, raincoats, accessories and leather goods.

In 1983 the brand opened a store at 39 St James’s Street, close to Piccadilly Circus, and a second shop on Copthall Avenue in the City of London. In the same year, Diana, Princess of Wales, was photographed sporting a Kent & Curwen baseball cap and, in 1986, Kent & Curwen became the official UK apparel licence for the Wimbledon Championships. So a tad earlier than one Mr Ralph Lauren got in on the act, though there’s no doubting Ralph’s done a fine job.

Kent & Curwen expanded into the “fashion tie” business and export market, later signing a lucrative deal to supply Tie Rack, though not necessarily in keeping with the brand’s tradition (or indeed credibility). In 2006 it opened a shop on Conduit Street, but it was to last only until 2009.

Then 2011 saw the opening of a shop at the Piccadilly end of Burlington Arcade, before the allnew Savile Row premises became the focal point for London retail at the end of last year – full circle from the meeting place of Mr Kent of Miss Curwen, with a brand once again out to make its mark on menswear. On Savile Row, Reynolds concludes, “As a brand that began in 1926, it seemed as though the home of British menswear was the appropriate place to celebrate its heritage,” he says. The colours may change, but the Kent & Curwen flag keeps flying.

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JANUARY 2014 | GENT | CONTENTS | 39

B R A N D G U I D E

BUGATTI

sEAsONAl sTYlE Your deďŹ nitive guide to autumn/winter 2014, from the developments across mainstream menswear to the emerging trends of the new season. —

40

Brand news

54

long shot

56

Hell for leather

Launches and developments for a/w 14

46

fade to grey

50

Polar express

52

Check mate

The shade of the season Catering for the urban explorer Tartans, Prince of Wales and houndstooth

The return of the overcoat Rediscovering the wardrobe staple

JANUARY 2014 | GENT | BRANDS | 40

BranD neWS The latest developments in menswear for autumn/winter 2014.

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 C AR L GRO SS Suit-specialist Carl Gross introduces a new silhouette for a/w 14. Dubbed Sharp Fit, this slim cut is aimed squarely at the style-conscious modern gentleman. Steeper shoulders, pointed lapels and printed linings complete the look. The range’s jackets can be worn to the office or out for drinks, while its waistcoats and waistcoat inserts come in contrasting nylon and colour coordinating flannel. A muted colour palette, featuring greys, blues, greens and shades of red, sets the tone for the new season.

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 O LYM P Structures dominate Olymp’s latest collection. In shirts, this theme translates as twill, small checks and whipcord weave. Knitwear’s structures are bolder, ranging from half-cardigan stitch to peacock and pineapple. The classic range, meanwhile, features elegant woven fabrics, fine spins and small prints. The shirt specialist has opted for understated colour palettes, placing particular emphasis on red, emerald, cognac and petrol shades. Decorative linings, coordinating buttons and sharply-cut collars complete each design.

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 BE NVE NUTO Benvenuto’s a/w 14 collection celebrates the boundless potential of the signature suit. Classic designs have been reinterpreted, and buyers can expect a host of new features, including patch pockets, peaked lapels and contrast buttons.

Suits can be teamed with scarves, woollen ties and pocket kerchiefs for a smart, urban look. The collection also features versatile blazers, coats and trousers in a range of materials.

Its shirts are finished with woven ribbons, contrast seams and elegant buttons.

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 R AGI NG BU LL Raging Bull moves into the new season with a confident new collection, inspired by the honesty and courage of the rugby player. Aimed at younger customers, the Away Day Champion line features button-down collar shirts layered with Fair Isle sweaters and coloured chinos. Gentleman and Player’s key pieces, meanwhile, include a herringbone jacket and quarter zip knitwear. The label has also updated its best-selling gilet, adding suedette shoulders and a host of stylish new features.

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JANUARY 2014 | GENT | BRANDS | 41

 J O HN SM E DLEY

 R E ALM AND E M PI R E

The a/w 14 season sees knitwear specialist John Smedley draw its inspiration from family vacations in the 30s. Taken from photo albums found in the brand’s archive, when Ian Maclean – grandfather to the brand’s current managing director – travelled to the Tyrol on skiing trips, as well as to New York and Amsterdam. Each garment in the latest collection has been drawn from images and pictures the design team came across, from the geometric architecture to the chunky ski garments worn at the time.

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Inspired by the artists and social movements of the First World War, Realm and Empire’s a/w 14 collection comprises two innovative lines. The Officer range features elegant, expertly finished pieces, with a wool tweed topcoat, two-tone club collar shirt and smart slim-leg trousers numbering among the highlights. The Tommy Line, meanwhile, is informed by the honest workwear of the regular soldier. Jerseywear is stone or acid washed for a laidback aesthetic, while quilted linings and patchwork pockets contribute to the “make-do-and-mend” feel.

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 J O U LE S Following the successful reaction to its s/s 14 collection, Joules is set to deliver a sizeable helping of British country heritage for the new season. The brand will usher in the new season with relaxed jersey tweed jackets and shirts in checks, tartans and hand-drawn prints. A versatile outerwear collection, meanwhile, comprises heavy tweeds, bomber jackets and quilted “shackets” in rich autumn colours. The range also features textured knits, festive jumpers and a bag collection co-designed

by Harris Tweed.

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 C AM E L AC T I VE M E NSW E AR Dubbed Crafted Evolution, Camel Active’s a/w 14 collection takes its inspiration from the culture of the nomadic Sami people. The range is a marriage of the traditional and the contemporary, with emphasis placed firmly on minimalism. Key pieces include leather bomber jackets, herringbone pants and chunky-knit cardigans. Parkas feature fur-trimmed hoods, horn buttons and a Gore-tex membrane. The collection’s understated colour palette, meanwhile, comprises berries, greys and petrol hues – another nod to the world of the Sami.

—

>>>

JANUARY 2014 | GENT | BRANDS | 42

 M ADDOX ST R E E T Inspired by English tradition, Maddox Street’s signature use of Liberty prints continues to stand at the core of its a/w 14 offering.

The new season brings with it a comprehensive collection comprising jackets, waistcoats, trousers, shirts and knitwear, all designed and presented in co-ordinating outfits. Quirky details enhance the noble yarns and fabrics, while colours range from jewel-like shades to rich autumnal hues.

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 BR Ü HL German label Brühl has been synonymous with fine trousers since 1923, and a/w 14 is no different. Detailing is key, with colour coordinated buttons and on-trend linings bringing each classic design up-to-date.

The range features weathered five-pocket jeans, and trousers in gabardine, corduroy and cotton with a velvet finish. Colours are understated; buyers can expect blues, greens and warm spice hues. Sporty, functional and modern, it aims to “cover all bases”.

 SKO PE S British label Skopes returns for a/w 14 with a collection of classic tailored wardrobe staples. Key pieces include the Leyburn Jacket, a country check jacket with straight flap pockets, side vents, tonal lining and built-in pocket hankie. The Reeth jacket, meanwhile, is a velvet style with slanted pockets, side vents and contrast scoop lining, while the Ronson dinner suit jacket features a jetted ticket pocket, peak lapel with two button holes, centre vent and satin trim around pockets and lapel.

—  M EYE R Like previous collections, Meyer’s a/w 14 range comprises three key categories – Comfort, Premium and Modern. Silhouettes remain slim, while on-trend pocket linings and matching buttons elevate each design. Reflecting Meyer’s core values, Comfort features trousers in sporty twill, robust panama and durable Manchester cord. Premium boasts a range of fine materials, including cotton, velvet, wool and flannel. Meyer Modern, meanwhile, is a more contemporary line, consisting of prints, coloured denim and new two-tone materials.

—

www.gucinari.co.uk

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JANUARY 2014 | GENT | TRENDS | 46

sTYlE sPOTTING The key trends and themes to emerge for autumn/winter 2014.

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fADE TO GrEY

GUIDE lONDON

One of the most versatile items in a gent’s wardrobe, the grey suit, makes its return to tailoring this season in a plethora of shades and silhouettes.

With a colour palette comprising graphite through to silver, the key to adding interest to this tone-on-tone trend is through fabrics, cuts and textures.

Figure-hugging cuts are presented by the likes of Roy Robson and Atelier Torino, featuring patch pockets, side vents and ticket pockets, while the focus for many brands this a/w 14 season has turned to innovation in materials.

Guide London, for example, introduces Austrian fabrics for its shirting category, including Oxford styles featuring jacquards, double collars and cotton sateen finishes. Moving away from the structured silhouette of the tailored suit slightly, single and double breasted knitted blazers in grey tones add a causal element to smart tapered trousers, with similar styles spotted at the likes of Purple Label by Benvenuto and German brand Olymp.

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CINqUE

rOY rOBsON

TOrINO

mAC

JANUARY 2014 | GENT | TRENDS | 47

JACqUEs BrITT

“Close to 50 shades of grey are set to dominate the tailoring category this a/w 14, with a colour palette ranging from steel to graphite, silver and melange”

OlYmP

sEIDENsTICKEr

PUrPlE lABEl BY BENVENUTO

SEEK AU T U M N / W I N T E R 2 014 /15 K Ü H L H AU S

JA N UA RY 14 T H - 16 T H 2014

LU C K EN WA L D ER ST R A S S E 3 W W W.S EEK E X H I B I T I O N S .C O M

10 9 6 3 B ER L I N

TImBErlAND

JANUARY 2014 | GENT | TRENDS | 50

ArmOr lUx

POlAr ExPrEss

While the British weather hardly presents conditions similar to that of the Arctic, the Polar Express trend does capture the need for versatile, weather-proof outerwear for the country’s unpredictable winters.

Outerwear – namely the parka and padded jacket – is the obvious leading category in this trend, with features such as shape memory spotted at Jupiter and the inclusion of Gore-tex® membrane at Camel Active adding value in terms of protection and function. Of course, layering is key to any British seasonal wardrobe, with tailoring labels such as Magee and Carl Gross presenting padded waistcoats and gilets. Robust and masculine are just two of the buzzwords used to describe this trend. In terms of detailing, buyers can expect patch pockets for quilted jackets, leather details, thick knitted welt cuffs, quilted woollen linings and real and faux fur trimmings, while blues, reds and browns create the core colour palette.

—

BUGATTI

mAGEE

HATTrIC

“Designed somewhat for the urban explorer, changing climates depict the need for technical outerwear and clever layering for the gent around town”

ATElIEr GArDEUr CAmEl ACTIVE

JUPITEr

CArl GrOss

JANUARY 2014 | GENT | TRENDS | 51

JANUARY 2014 | GENT | TRENDS | 52

ATElIEr GArDEUr

DIGEl

CHECK mATE

AlBErTO

JOUlEs

BENVENUTO BlACK lABEl

Checks become an eclectic addition to a/w 14’s print offering, and while muted block colouring will always be essential to a man’s wardrobe, prints and patterns such as Prince of Wales, herringbone and plaid are set to rejuvenate the mainstream market.

Trouser specialist Atelier Gardeur, for example, presents its British Heritage theme, which incorporates tartan woollen trousers featuring flap pockets, robust pocket lining and discreet leather labels. In terms of suiting, Digel showcases a houndstooth pattern throughout its Notting Hill story, appearing on sports jackets, trousers and shirts, while Benvenuto Black Label and Joules both offer country-inspired checks in single-breasted blazers.

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Garments that won’t hang about.

The steamer that will.

For more information Tel: 020 8417 0660

www.propress.co.uk

JANUARY 2014 | GENT | TRENDS | 54

mErC

lONG sHOT sKOPEs

PUrPlE lABEl BY BENVENUTO

CArl GrOss

rEAlm & EmPIrE

An alternative to the robust outerwear mentioned previously, the overcoat is set to be a highlight of the a/w 14 season.

Neutral tones and structured silhouettes seen at the likes of German labels Carl Gross and Purple Label by Benvenuto give this garment the ability to slot into current wardrobes seamlessly, while brands such as Merc draw inspiration from 70s Mod culture, teaming its camel overcoat with lightweight woollen polo necks and slim-fitting denims. Traditional tailoring label Skopes, meanwhile, presents one of its key styles, the Pimlico – a long-line overcoat with straight flap pockets, notch lapel and contrast undercollar felt.

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Visit us at Moda, Stand MC16 showyourejockey.com

DIGEl

BlEND

JANUARY 2014 | GENT | TRENDS | 56

following a noticeable absence from the mainstream market for a few seasons, leather is back in abundance across the board.

New to the Digel collection for a/w 14, the leather jacket becomes available in soft lamb nappa, while particular attention is paid to the tanning process, which keeps the leather free from damaging chromium VI. Contemporary label, Cinque, meanwhile introduces leather into its outerwear collection in a quilted blouson shape with printed jersey lining. Trousers also play a part in this trend and, while PU coatings take precedence over genuine leather at both G Design and Aleberto, the grungeinspired element is still paramount throughout both collections. —

HEll fOr lEATHEr

AlBErTO

G DEsIGN

CINqUE

JANUARY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | CONTENTS | 59

D E N I M

&

S T R E E T

rHYTHm AND BlUEs Following a successful spring/summer 2014, denim specialist Blue Collar Worker has made its online debut, and is now available through www.tigerleash.com.

With a collection of 17 pieces, the brand uses premium-quality ring-spun denim, taking its influence from work and military wear from the 30s, 40s and 50s. Despite each piece being given a modern twist in terms of fabrics and silhouettes, the design team never loses sight of the fact that these are true utilitarian pieces, constructed to function in the workplace.

Focus is given to functional, practical pieces, coupled with an overt attention to detail in terms of garment construction and finish. Pockets are lined and re-enforced with hidden rivets and bar tacks, while seams are 2-ply stitched for added strength.

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Product news

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East is East

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The young and the restless

Rounding up the key stories this month

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In-season

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G star heads central

Life in black and white The denim label opens on Oxford Street

The brands to catch at Jacket Required Highlights from this season’s contemporary menswear offer

JANUARY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | PRODUCT | 60

PrODUCT NEWs Inside menswear.

M AK E R S AND DO E R S British label Makers LDN was launched in 2012 by designer Melody Maker following a number of years honing her craft at various menswear brands. With a recognisable style of quirky digital prints, the brand offers T-shirts and beanies – developed for both the male and female market.

Designed for 18-35 year olds, the brand draws inspiration from Maker’s travels between the UK and California, where she lives part of the year. “All of my designs have an essence of the two places merged together,” she explains.

Future plans include the release of two more ready-to-wear ranges, alongside a number of potential collaborations, details of which will be released later this year.

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SLI P- O N ST YLE Following its successful international launch, US label Hickies is making its debut this season with its patented lacing system that replaces traditional shoelaces. The specially designed, high-grade elasticated components have been designed to allow the wearer to turn any shoe into a slip-on.

The system has been engineered to withstand the forces of various activities and to fit a wide range of shoes and comfort levels.

Launched in 2011, Hickies is now sold in 13 countries worldwide and is currently in the process of expanding its product range further.

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BrAND TO WATCH

O’NEILL x PENDLETON

T HE C L ASSI C C O U RT Footwear label K Swiss, the Californian lifestyle brand that launched its Classic leather tennis shoe in the US in 1966, is re-releasing its Classic Court trend for 2014.

The court collection offers an expansion of K-Swiss’ exclusive styles, in white, deep green, navy and grey, and featuring the traditional detailing of the K-Swiss original court style, with premium leathers, patent leathers, cotton twill, the 5-stripe tape and micro perforation. This season also sees the re-launch of two of its most celebrated styles – the Lozan III and the Classic Mid II. —

A key part of the O’Neill’s O’riginals range, the brand’s collaboration with American clothing label Pendleton launches for a/w 14.

The two brands, both leaders in their fields, have teamed up to create a capsule collection of premium products – each piece designed to become a future style classic.

A blend of signature Pendleton wool placements on fashion-forward silhouettes, alongside O’Neill’s innovative edge, the collection comprises highlights such as the Penwool shirt – a modern interpretation of the classic 60s boardshirt and the Penwool jacket – a vintage-style parka, teaming an iconic Pendleton-check wool lining with O’Neill Hyperdry technology and Thinsulate™ insulation.

The O’Riginals range itself, meanwhile, uses premium vintage-washed fabrics with a strong focus on style and attention to detail: expect trims, special labels and finishes. This collection features graphics, prints and styling across tees, shirts, crews, jackets and slim-fit pants in a muted palette of deep red, indigo, washed-out black and grey and military green. www.oneill.com

JANUARY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | PRODUCT | 61

ON TrENd

radar

Seasonal extras: Belts

Spotlighting style.

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1: ALPINESTARS £10 00390 423 5286 2: DUCK & COVER £6.50 020 8453 1668 3: O’NEILL £10.45 01273 687788 4: DIESEL price on request 020 7520 7000 5: FRANKLIN AND MARSHALL £12.50 020 7488 1380

disizsick ESTABLISHED: 2013 — HISTORY: The brainchild of business partners Maryline Vigouroux and K-riss Dassieu, the East London brand was born out of a passion for design, style and music.

— SIGNATURE STYLE: With its roots firmly placed in the skateboarding, graffiti and hip-hop sub-cultures; Disizsick has tapped into these influences to make its streetwear debut.

Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale

ESTABLISHED: 2014 — HISTORY: Launched in 1952, surfwear label O’Neill has since developed from the founder of the wetsuit into a complete wardrobe offer, launching its first collaboration with American label Pendleton for autumn/winter 2014.

— SIGNATURE STYLE: Combining classic Pendleton wool placements with O’Neill’s authentic styling.

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Established earlier last year, streetwear label disizsick is already making waves in the youth market with its clever play on iconic visuals across tees, caps and vests.

Embracing the signature dNA of American hip-hop, the collection features prints, graphics and motifs of the likes of Mickey Mouse and Pharaoh heads, while skateboard decks incorporate screaming marijuana leafs.

Future plans for the brand include international expansion into markets including china, Australia, New zealand and the Us. The next twelve months will also see an increased product offering to include jackets, beanies, baseball jerseys, hoodies and shirts, as well as the launch of a womenswear collection.

“We had been toying with the idea of starting a clothing line for some time,” says kriss dassieu, co-founder of disizsick. “After much research and looking at what else was out on the market, we felt confident it was time to put our designs out there, and make them known. Our biggest goal for 2014 is to make our streetwear brand known nationally, with several stockists in the Uk,” he adds.

Wholesale prices range from £10.25 for caps to £26 for sweaters. www.disizsick.com

JANUARY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | PRODUCT | 62

CONVERSE PRICE ON REQUEST 020 8731 3500

ALPINESTARS £10 0039 04235286

KNOWN £11.50 07877 430811

life in Black and White With a striking sense of simplicity, monochrome returns for another season, this time in a series of 80s-inspired streetwear designs.

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NENA & PASADENA £13 01494 435070

CAT £47.84 020 7860 0100

BLACK KAVIAR £35.50 07513 950345

SCHOTT £10.80 07957 247411

SURF LIQUOR £33 07971 360690

CLAE £49 020 7720 5050

Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale

JANUARY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | PROFILE | 65

G Star headS central it wouldn’t be a call that many would make for a brand that has been trying to claim back some image credibility in the Uk in more recent years, but G-Star raw has just opened on Oxford Street – one of the busiest shopping destinations in the world. tom Bottomley finds out the thinking behind such a major move from G-Star raw’s global brand manager, remco de nijs.

— With standalone shops on carnaby Street and in covent Garden, you might think G-Star has enough retail presence in london’s West end, especially when you consider it’s a major denim supplier to Selfridges, too. But that’s not stopped the brand from turning a few heads and opening a 5,380 sq ft flagship store over two floors on Oxford street, selling both men’s and women’s denims. so why is Oxford street right for G-star? remco de Nijs, the label’s global brand manager, who has been with the label since 1997, has the answer. “First of all, London is a key city for us,” he says. “As a denim brand it’s important to have a strong presence here. As a company i think we’re ready to be located on a high-footfall high street.

We also thought it would be interesting to give a premium approach to a busy high-street location.”

The new shop, located at 272-274 Oxford street, close to both Oxford circus and Bond street Underground stations, is focused on product. “it’s a high level of service we’re giving,” says de Nijs. “customers are greeted by a ‘host’, who leads them to a denim curator. That’s the person who knows everything about denim who can help customers find what they’re looking for efficiently.”

There are also “runners” who go back and forth to the mezzanine floor stock room – which is completely “on show” to anyone coming in the shop – to bring the right sizes and styles. “it’s about the whole experience – and that’s very important,” says de Nijs. “We’ve made it much easier for the consumer because we’ve ‘visualised’ the whole denim wall, with half mannequins that mean you can see the style, fit and wash much

clearer. it’s a 3d approach, and customers tend to go directly to the silhouette they like. it makes the whole process much faster.”

There are also five “jeans stations”, which have a touch-screen computer, on each floor. so if the shop is packed and customers want to go through the options themselves, and see the styles and different washes on screen before they try on, then that’s another option. it’s almost like bringing a touch of the Apple store to denim retailing.

But why men’s on the ground floor and women’s downstairs? “We have good experience with that,” says de Nijs. “Our store in Amsterdam has the women’s downstairs, and it’s very successful. it’s more intimate. it’s a more boutique atmosphere and, from our experience, women are more likely to venture downstairs. For the ladies, there are also dressing rooms that can open to have two spaces – both with mirrors – because girls like to try things on with friends. Men are more direct, and likely to be put off walking into a shop and seeing women’s styles.”

There are plans to open further stores in the Uk. All the G-star shops in the Uk are with franchise partners. The new one on Oxford street has again been achieved in partnership with diffusion, which also has the carnaby street and covent Garden stores, as well as others in Birmingham, Manchester and cardiff in a franchise portfolio that has now hit 11. Xile in scotland also has four franchise stores. in fact there are 17 G-star franchise stores in the Uk, and another is due to open in Brighton this spring. On the whole, there’s only one G-star shop that isn’t a franchise, and that’s the one in Amsterdam,

which serves as a testing ground for different retail concepts and products.

G-star celebrates its 25th anniversary in 2014, and the new collection will feature original G-starfavourite styles from the brand’s past such as Us Lumber, Us First and Elwood. “They’re going to be in the same streaky raw red listing fabric from Japan, as were the originals,” says de Nijs. They will retail for around £169. “We also have a 25 oz selvedge denim in the Elwood, which looks beautiful and shows our expertise in premium quality denim.” indeed, though G-star is now on Oxford street, its prices are far from your average highstreet shop, or indeed from other denim brands retailing anywhere nearby. its raw Essentials line continues to raise the bar in terms of design and price point, as does the ongoing collaboration with designer Marc Newson, which has now come into its own as a separate premium offer.

Jonas Bach, G-star raw sales director for Europe and the Uk, also believes the wholesale market for the brand in the Uk has undergone a big turnaround. “i came in to deal with the Uk market around three to four years ago,” he says.

“We hadn’t dropped in turnover, but dropped in terms of image and coolness. We had become big with a few multiple retailers, and decided to cut back and clean it up – and make space for more retail stores with the right franchise partners.”

The wholesale business is still big business for the brand, of course. And the Oxford street store now leads the way in terms of new design, layout and approach to denim retailing, as G-star ups the stakes on the high street.

JANUARY 2014 | JACKET REQUIRED | CONTENTS | 67

J A C K E T R E Q U I R E D

RAINS

eaSt iS eaSt MWB presents its comprehensive guide to the latest edition of london trade show Jacket required, running on 5-6 february at the Old truman Brewery, Brick lane e1. —

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the essential line-up

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finish line

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Pick of the bunch

Nine of the key brands to check out for autumn/winter 2014 Names to discover in accessories and add-ons Menswear insider Tom Bottomley highlights six brands to watch at the show

JANUARY 2014 | JACKET REQUIRED | BRANDS | 68

the eSSential line-UP Marking a return to its native east london, Jacket required’s sixth edition sees its biggest line-up to date, with a brand new extended show space and a raft of unmissable names in contemporary and directional menswear. here are nine brands to catch at the autumn/winter 2014 show.

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47 BR AND

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PAR K A LO NDO N

Lifestyle label 47 Brand continues to draw inspiration from its sporting roots this season with its extensive collection of headwear and apparel. Founded in 1947, the brand was created to give sports fans in Boston a way of showing their loyal support through apparel – and today the brand is one of the leading labels in sports licenced clothing. The a/w 14 season welcomes the addition of the college collection with University of Harvard, Yale, kentucky and Notre dame adorning dug out jackets, crew necks, Melton wool caps, beanies, classic and clean snapbacks and scrum logo tees.

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With a nod to its 60s and 70s archive, Merc’s a/w 14 collection is one of its strongest, captured by photographer dean chalkley – best known for his portraits of Paul Weller, Amy Winehouse and, most recently, Jake Bugg. sharp tailoring is key, while slim silhouettes are juxtaposed with vintage-inspired knitwear. Outerwear reigns, with tartan-lined donkey jackets and heavyweight parkas at the front of the collection. Other highlights include geometric print shirts, Alpine and Fair isle pattered knits and paisley detailing, in a colour palette of powder blue, brick red, muted mustard, maroon and cobalt blue.

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in-keeping with its signature design ethos, Parka London welcomes the return of a classic silhouette mixed with modern detailing for a/w 14.

This season sees a subtle nod towards scandinavian styling, emulating clean lines and simplistic detailing – a style that continues to be a popular trend in menswear. Attention to detail is key with detachable linings, button-off faux-fur trims and hardware and button finishes featuring throughout. Highlights include the Noah parka (pictured); the Milo long-line parka in charcoal grey with detachable hood and wax coating; and finally the Eli, a textured wool blazer in navy.

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JANUARY 2014 | JACKET REQUIRED | BRANDS | 69

RAINS

PALL ADI U M

DE NHAM

returning to the event for a/w 14, scandinavian label rains will showcase its comprehensive collection of outerwear and accessories. drawing inspiration from the everyday life of copenhagen living, functionality of its signature rainwear is mixed with cool and contemporary details. in order to expand the collection to a wider market – which now caters for both the male and female shopper – the brand has added three interpretations of classic outerwear to its a/w 14 offering. These include the Mac coat, the A jackets and the versatile Breaker jacket.

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A/w 14 sees boot label Palladium draw upon its French heritage and military roots to update its men’s collection with new silhouettes and design elements. The latest drop sees the introduction of premium upper materials to its classic styles, including patterned ballistic nylon, military blanket felt and rich waterproof leathers. The new season also welcomes the expansion of the Winter sport collection with updated designs and fresh colourways. Finally, there’s the introduction of the Pampa Hi cuff, constructed from 20oz canvas, with an added leather cuff at the boot collar.

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According to contemporary label denham, its a/w 14 offering takes its influence from “images of dark stormy seas and wave-hammered industrial coastlines”. in its menswear collection, a courier’s greatcoat in Germany triggered the creation of the new Gelmok parka and technical sumak Mackintosh trench. Meanwhile, shawl-collared Feral trench coats are lightly padded, lined with tartan and built from structured twill and cotton duck canvas or thick loden wool. The brand’s denim offer also sees two new fit programmes – the 5-pocket classic fit and the 7-point pocket.

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LIGHT NING BOLT

HAR RY ST E DM AN

NAT I C M AR I NE

The focus for Us surfwear specialist Lightning Bolt is on durable and comfortable fabrics this season. Featuring a impressive range of fabrics, the collection comprises soft fleece, ultra-light waterproof nylon for French goose down insulated jackets, heavy and durable shetland and Melton wool fabrics for jackets and knits, cosy flannels, cashmere, Merino and lambswool and hefty canvas twills and corduroy. in terms of colour, this season’s palette takes its cue from deep coastal American earthy tones, North sea blues, deep forest greens and sun-washed patinas.

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since its launch in 2011, London label Harry stedman has grown quite the cult following with its vintage 50s Americana styling, especially with its classic Golden Bear collaboration varsity jackets. The a/w 14 collection draws its influence from the workwear found in Us shipyards, and is designed to serve a purpose and protect the wearer against outdoor elements. contemporary in fit, while classic in look, the latest offering from the fledging label includes chore jackets, classic peacoats, leather and donegal tweed jackets, multi-pockets overshirts, Gansey knit and American-made 5-pocket blue jeans.

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The focus for Japanese label Natic Marine this season continues to be its namesake marine style. inspired by yacht fittings, navy uniforms and sea-related materials, the a/w 14 collection’s palette focuses on navy, grey melange and white. The brand’s outwear category features jackets and coats in compressed Melton, embellished with woven stripes on the sleeves and inside hem, while tops are mostly characterised by indigo colour and made from cotton flannel and printed fabrics. in addition, the brand combines various materials including cut and saw, faux fur, boa and flannel.

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JANUARY 2014 | JACKET REQUIRED | BRANDS | 70

finiSh line accessories and add-ons are a key focus for many retailers, and with a range of new and established talent lining up to showcase their worth at Jacket required, MWB picked just some of the names to check out this edition.

— DASM ARCA dasmarca is a British label established in 2010 by central st Martins graduate and designer Bidyut das. Focusing on classic and contemporary headwear, the brand is making its debut at Jacket required with its a/w 14 offering, entitled The New Traditionalist. drawing inspiration from the 20s, the collection features herringbone and houndstooth patterns in traditional textures such as tweed, wool and twill, while key styles include the trilby, the porkpie and the French conductor cap.

F R AAS Making its show debut at this season’s Jacket required is scarf label Fraas. With over 125 years of experience in the industry, the German label turns the focus to harmonic and contrasting colour combinations this a/w 14 buying season. rich and varied tones of blue are key for the new range, including azure, cobalt, midnight and steel, mixed with contrasted highlights of petrol, burgundy, ecru and chestnut. One of the key looks in the collection is the heritage herringbone, checks and plaids reworked with modern flashes of colour in wool cashmere blends.

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M I PAC Born in the summer of 2012, bag specialist Mi Pac is already counted as one of the Uk’s leading accessory labels. With the resurgence of back packs among the style set, the British label is entering its forth season with its most comprehensive collection to date. continuing to push boundaries in terms of both materials and finishes, the new season includes additions to the brand’s classic, premium and Gold range with faux ostrich, snakeskin and metallic designs.

T YLE R & T YLER Quintessentially British label Tyler & Tyler was founded in 2007 by brothers richard and Jonathan Tyler and has since grown into a complete accessory offer. Making its Jacket required debut, the design duo is set to present 3 a range of classic, stylish and contemporary finishing touches including cufflinks, collar stiffeners, leather accessories, bow ties, ties, pocket squares, belts and socks.

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K NI GHTSBR I DGE NE C K W E AR Following its successful debut for s/s 14, British accessory label knightsbridge Neckwear returns to Jacket required with its latest collection of ties, scarves, bow ties and pocket squares.

Gaining momentum each season, this brand is now currently found in some of the key Uk menswear outlets, including Psyche in Middlesbrough, Accent in Leeds and Hoopers department stores nationwide. key styles in the a/w 14 offering include the ivory silk paisley aviator scarf and the Mod-inspired monochrome houndstooth scarf.

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DASMARCA FRAAS MI PAC TYLER & TYLER KNIGHTSBRIDGE NECKWEAR

BOLD STYLES FOR WINTERY MONTHS. SCARVES ARE OUR WORLD.

SHOWING AT JACKET REQUIRED FEBRUARY 2014.

SHOWROOM APPOINTMENTS: LOUISE.SHORE@FRAAS.COM

T: 020 74 86 8916

FR A AS.COM

JANUARY 2014 | JACKET REQUIRED | BRANDS | 72

Pick n Mix MWB’s menswear insider tom Bottomley takes his pick of the bunch, highlighting six brands to take a look at this season, from heritage labels to new kids on the block.

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L AC O ST E F O OT W E AR

AL AN PAINE it’s the English Explorer collection – based on the brand’s connections with adventurer George Mallory – that will be floating the boat of buyers at Jacket. The Halmore men’s waxed cotton parka has been updated for a/w 14 with a Fair isle hood lining, and many of the new garments are based on traditional British knitwear, all the rage once again, and updated with new colourways and the knitting expertise you’d expect from one of the country’s few remaining specialists. Long-lasting materials are the focus, as is the great outdoors, with chunky wools and Tweed all playing a part. Then, of course, you have the vast array of staple classic knits that only a brand like Alan Paine can really do with conviction.

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T HE DU F F E R O F ST GE O RGE J APAN it’s true that all the kids are down with the duffer offer exclusive to Jd sports but, for those in the know, duffer Japan ( the higher tier line previously only available in the Japanese market though still designed by the talented Marco cairns) has more of a design edge to it. it reminds you more of duffer of old, but the price points are still attractive.

There’s a real United states Navy influence to the a/w 14 collection, taking inspiration from both the deck and casual outfittings of the officers of yesteryear. There’s a lot of blues and tobaccos, with fur-collared jackets and genuine knitting techniques, with some fine quality shirting fabrics, too. Add to that, gym-influenced apparel using historic rib techniques and tinted grey marls and indigo dyes. sounds knockout.

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rené Lacoste was famed for his effortless elegance on and off the court. Translating his sense of sporting elegance to a series of urban lifestyle inspired shoes, Lacoste’s premium sneakers for a/w 14 prove that elegant can also be nimble. classic tennis and running silhouettes provide a starting point for high-end sneakers that are made for the street. combining clean lines and sporting style, there are two fresh designs coming to Jacket required, the Mortain and the cubera. What will also be of interest for those looking for something classic with, dare we say it, a twist, are the new brogue styles in mixed materials and the forever popular EVA wedge sole. Outdoor-inspired canvas and leather come in autumnal tones of tan and khaki. The brogue selection features the Milard, a classic style, and the Milard Hi, a modern and stylish boot. rené would approve, though he certainly wouldn’t wear these babies on court.

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JANUARY 2014 | JACKET REQUIRED | BRANDS | 73

E LEVE N PAR I S

NAT I VE YO U T H sounding like an 80s teenage reggae band (sorry, that was Musical Youth wasn’t it?!), is no bad thing for this Manchester-born brand that jumps on key trends quickly and executes them finely. it’s quick turnaround, short-order gear, though they will also be showing a/w 14 at Jacket – alongside the key s/s 14 pieces.

This is only their second s/s collection, but if last year’s was anything to go by this will again be hot stuff. Part of spring’s winners (we presume) include the windbreaker and the fisherman jacket – paired with colour-block tees and acid-washed indigo jersey. There are also floral printed cottons, washed denim and Breton stripes aplenty, with Native Youth’s own ‘space dye’ jersey bringing a modern take on the classic tracksuit.

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Apparently “the winds of revolution are blowing through the Eleven Paris a/w 14 collection.” Let’s hope they’re blowing in the right direction. For the new season, the Parisian brand takes us to dublin for inspiration.

Against a backdrop of post-punk and celtic music, the design team hit the streets of the irish capital “to discover the history of a proud and rebellious people”. sounds like an excuse to get mullered on Guinness and Jameson’s whiskey to us, but somehow the trip gave birth to a resolutely grunge collection. The “tradition and spirit of the 90s melt together as the line between men’s and women’s wardrobes disappears, to be redefined,” or so the press release goes. Must have been some night. Anyway, there’s tartan, irish symbols, celtic crosses and medallions, all-over embroidered bullets, Gaelic lettering, furry knits, brushed textiles, leather and suede inserts, studs, holes and spirals. sounds like the old kensington Market might have been a better place for inspiration, but we’ll grant them the dublin weekender.

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HE NR I LLOYD Here we have another specialist brand striving to take itself into new waters, experimenting with styling and fabrications all the time. For a/w 14, the solent down Parka is a new multi-detail technical jacket with taped seam construction and 550 Fill Power 85/15 grey duck down providing unbeatable insulation. One for the elements that don’t half look good, too. Then there’s the Elmey reversible Bomber, a real hybrid with a technical sports outer but a more trend-led look – fully reversible with a detachable hood and removable faux fur trim. The last pick of the new outerwear options is the Himley Jacket, a Melton wool number with light wadding for additional warmth, and a water-resistant pack-away hood. it’s a real Henri Lloyd piece if ever there was one, with front patch pockets and a nylon seat inspired by technical marine products.

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  While the return of menswear essentials such as utilitarian outerwear and classic denims no longer scream newness, it is the mix of bold colourways, eye-catching patterns and innovative fabric finishes that will inject interest into your store. MWB helps you master this season’s latest looks.

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JOrdAN: FArAH 1920 PArkA £58 020 7291 7657

JOrdAN: G sTAr JAckET PricE ON rEQUEsT 0800 279 4950 OriGiNAL PENGUiN JEANs £27 020 7291 7632 FArAH 1920 JUMPEr £26 020 7291 7657 WEEkENd OFFENdEr sHirT (JUsT sEEN) £18.51 01332 614755 HAPPY sOcks rrP £8 020 3051 5236 BOXFrEsH TrAiNErs £27 020 8297 4635 VErAs BELT £15 07969 142921

JOrdAN: LAVENHAM GiLET £51.95 01787 379535 FArAH 1920 dENiM JAckET £44 020 7291 7657 MErc TrOUsErs £23 020 7495 8538 MErc sHOEs £35.56 020 7495 8538

cHArLiE: sUPErdrY LEATHEr JAckET PricE ON rEQUEsT 01242 578376 OriGiNAL PENGUiN sHirT £25 020 7291 7632 OriGiNAL PENGUiN JEANs £27 020 7291 7632

JOrdAN: HArrY sTEdMAN JAckET PricE ON rEQUEsT 020 7226 9029 G sTAr JEANs PricE ON rEQUEsT 0800 279 4950 AiGLE sHirT £28 01608 813860 VErAs BELT £15 07969 142921

cHArLiE: GLOVErALL dUFFLE cOAT PricE ON rEQUEsT 01604 812812 G-sTAr JEANs PricE ON rEQUEsT 0800 279 4950 G-sTAr sHirT (JUsT sEEN) PricE ON rEQUEsT 0800 279 4950 MErc sHOEs £35.56 020 7495 8538 — JOrdAN: scHOTT LEATHEr JAckET £152.15 07957 247411 d.i.E dENiM sHirT (JUsT sEEN) £32 07831 190418 dUck & cOVEr HAT £4.90 020 8435 1668 k sWiss TrAiNErs £31 020 7488 1380

cHArLiE: WEEkENd OFFENdEr JAckET £55.56 01332 614755 WEEkENd OFFENdEr JUMPEr £31.48 01332 614755 TOMMY HiLFiGEr dENiM sHirT £28.00 020 3144 0900 AFENds BLEAcHEd JEANs £20 07889 709802

JOrdAN: LAVENHAM dUFFLE cOAT £141.30 01787 379535 OriGiNAL PENGUiN JEANs (JUsT sEEN) £27 020 7291 7632 cHArLiE: sUPErdrY JAckET PricE ON rEQUEsT 01242 578376 MQT JEANs PricE ON rEQUEsT 020 7436 6753 AiGLE sHirT (JUsT sEEN) £28 01608 813860

cHArLiE: MErc dUFFLE cOAT £67.50 020 7495 8538 ELViNE “sLiMsON” cHiNOs £28 020 7725 5700 AiGLE dENiM sHirT £28 01608 813860 VErAs sHOEs £48 07969 142921 sTYLisT’s OWN sOcks

JOrdAN: GLOVErALL dUFFLE cOAT PricE ON rEQUEsT 01604 812812 dUck & cOVEr scArF £8.75 020 8435 1668

cHArLiE: WOLsEY sPOrTs cOLLEcTiON JAckET PricE ON rEQUEsT 020 7292 7400 AiGLE sHirT £28 FArAH 1920 JEANs £32 020 7291 7657 dUck ANd cOVEr scArF £8.75 020 8435 1668

JOrdAN: rEALM & EMPirE FiELd JAckET £66 01858 466729 GABicci ViNTAGE JUMPEr £30 01442 233 700 BrUTUs TriM FiT cHEckEd sHirT £21.50 020 7224 4031 VOLcOM JEANs £26 0845 486 5266 — cHArLiE: ELViNE JAckET £80 020 7725 5700 FArAH sHirT £30 020 7291 7657 dUck & cOVEr JEANs £24 020 8435 1668

Credits Photographs: Darren Black www.darrenblackphotography.com Models: Charlie C and Jordan S at Oxygen Models www.oxygenmodels.com Make-up artist: Amrita Dhanjal www.amritadhanjal.com Stylists: Victoria Jackson and Tom Bottomley Location: Cherry Bomb Studios, London SE16 Unless otherwise stated, all prices are wholesale

cHArLiE: crO’JAck BOMBEr JAckET £65 01902 711823 AFENds MUsTArd sHirT £20 07889 709802 FArAH 1920 JEANs £24 020 7291 7657 OHW? sHOEs £48 07779 139104 sTYLisT’s OWN sOcks

JANUARY 2014 | PEOPLE | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 88

cOllective the people, the places, the products.

LiTTLE BLAck BOOk SiMOn & Me Berlin

siMON sAYs as part of my small catalogue of doomed-to-failure new Year resolutions, i included acquiring a dishwasher. Yes, i am now about to join the 20th century.

To be fair, there is a perfectly good reason why i held off for so long.

As long-term readers of this column may have deduced, i have a penchant for antiques, and this extends to my tableware. i have a collection of cornishware; that cheerfully blue and white striped stuff that must have filled every kitchen, pantry and larder from the 30s to the 60s. it was everywhere. Woolworths sold it. i began buying it in the 80s when it wasn’t very fashionable. Then a wave of nostalgia enveloped it and prices went mental in the early 90s, before crashing to earth in the age of minimalism and stainless steel.

Nowadays, you can pick up a dinner plate for a couple of pounds on eBay, or a caddy with “sultanas” on it for £20 or so. Quite affordable.

But my aversion to the charms of a dishwater dates back to cornishware’s glory days, to a time when i couldn’t risk my precious tea plates having their decades-old glaze stripped ruthlessly by diamond Finish tablets. Now that the values are almost ikea-esque, and i’m told that the tablets are much more tableware friendly, i’ve taken the plunge. so in that hinterland between christmas and New Year i braved south London’s Purley Way to visit John Lewis’ At Home store, and its neighbour, currys.

What a contrast. As you might expect, John Lewis was the quiet murmur of the middle class at play; much oohing and ahhing over the clearance kath kidston. The friendly chap on dishwashers talked me through the options, and didn’t make me feel like the Victorian i plainly appeared to be with my archaic questions. He looked up all the options online, and we narrowed it down to two. interestingly, there was way more choice online than in-store, so having him there to navigate the website with me was most helpful. currys was grim. There was more selection than John Lewis, but the teenager who sauntered over to “help” had about as much knowledge as a badger. When i asked why there was a £200 difference between two seemingly identical models, his reply was, “it’s the brands, innit.” it isn’t hard to see why John Lewis has posted stellar christmas trading figures. combining and integrating its online business so successfully with its stores has been clever. Maintaining its brand values across both has been genius.

Simon carter is the ceO of the eponymous brand and retail stores.

—

launched in 2008 and the brainchild of Simon freund, German menswear label Simon & Me has had somewhat of a makeover recently – or makeunder, it seems. the brand’s store, located in the city’s fidicinstraße, is the epitome of minimalist aesthetic.

With a stripped-down store space, simon & Me presents just five items for sale – a compass, cotton tee, gentleman’s comb, copper bracelet and leather bag – with each piece designed by Freund and his partner, Alexander, and then created by craftsmen within the boundaries of Berlin.

As well as the “power-five”, the store has partnered with other local producers to stock a range of spirits including Our/Berlin Vodka and Monkey 47 Gin. — Plan B

neil MOrriS Owner, Veras shoes

i went to the local comprehensive school on my estate, which was not known for its success within academia. On the first day i saw a massive brawl and one kid head-butting anyone in their way. i can’t remember her name, but she scared me to death. i thought to myself what a charming school.

When the careers advisor interviewed me about what i wanted to do in life, he came to the conclusion that i should aim to be a labourer. What a dream for a child to have. i haven’t held a trowel since.

After school i went to college because i didn’t know what to do next, and then i went on to a Polytechnic to do business studies, which became useful when i went bankrupt many years later!

Looking back, i was always interested in travel and obsessed with countries and capital cities. Perhaps i should have followed my father, who sailed the vast oceans and travelled the world many times. Only problem being, i hate airports and cannot swim for a huge fear of water.

—

JANUARY 2014 | PEOPLE | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 89

TOP TWEETs

clOSet cOnfidential richard rOBinSOn Brand directOr, realM & eMPire i’m a complete jacket-head. i’ve always started a buying appointment or a collection development process with outerwear. it’s the category that makes an immediate impact with buyers and customers, and gains instant credibility with the consumer. since i started in the menswear industry, i’ve pretty much kept every jacket i’ve bought or managed to “blag”. Loft space at home is now crammed with around 200 fine examples.

— My Belstaff roadmaster is a firm favourite. it’s battered and bruised, and i’ve resisted the temptation to get it re-waxed. it’s a timeless piece and authentic to the core. At south of chester, part of the scotts portfolio where i was buying controller for 10 years, we got in early with Belstaff and bought it for the store when it relaunched in the Uk. it’s one of its more understated jackets with no big pocket branding, which was the norm at the time as it was driven by the italian collection.

— i love “function” in jackets, especially when combined with the tongue-in-cheek spark of early One true Saxon, such as the brand’s Park Picnic jacket with a builtin, drop-down picnic blanket for those “weekend manoeuvres”. it was well ahead of its time and launched when most buyers were focused on Prada sport.

— i’m also particularly proud of our realm & empire peacoat – great fit, great fabric and again a timeless classic. Our collaboration with the garment archive of imperial War Museums gave us the opportunity to learn more about the real history and authentic detailing of this piece, and bring this into actual production. We even trimmed the pockets and collar with British Millerain waxed cotton.

—

ROBIN TABARI @ZeeTabari If only sleeping was a job. I’d be so good at it. I’d even work over time Esquire Magazine @EsquireUK John Cooper Clarke providing the commentary at Top Man show Men’s Health Style @MensHealthStyle Use warm water or a hot towel to soften your skin and open your pores, which will give you the closest shave. #GroomingTip ASOS Menswear @ASOS_Menswear Holding a minute’s silence for Theo’s anterior cruciate ligament.

Warren Beckett @RobotMonsieur Can the BFC make the rain stop please?

My Rodarte is getting wet #LCM Financial Times @FT The real faultline in Britain is generational.

The old are seen to have done well from the state; young are victims Brooks Brothers @BrooksBrothers Style Resolutions: Style immortality – some things never go out of style. Identify these things, buy the best you can afford & treat them well Timothy Barber @TimTomato Suppose there’s nothing surprising these days about £4 for a pint of London Pride, but I’m surprised nonetheless. TSK.

sOciETY the PartieS and eventS frOM in and arOUnd the MenSWear indUStrY.

 Topman and live all-over print specialist YrStore celebrated the launch of YrTopman with the introduction of a new range of customisable garments, accessories products and print library at Topman Oxford Street in the Personal Shopping Suite.

 The Elite Apparel press day at The Paradise with acrobatic performance group Rollin Dices modelling the latest Waxx swimwear collection, while models (L-R) Leva Leskeviciute, Egle Videikaite, Ilona Majauskaite and Anliya Abdou Issa wear latest collections by sister company Elite Swim.

 David Gandy and Dermott O’Leary join GQ editor and chairman of London Collections: Men Dylan Jones at the launch of the fourth edition of the menswear event earlier this month.

JANUARY 2014 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 91

the BOttOMleY line

© Paul Mowatt

MWB deputy editor tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

hOW tO BUMP UP tradinG fiGUreS? clOSe YOUr chanGinG rOOMS in Sale!

You’ve really got to be quite flummoxed at the decision-making at Marks and spencer. closing changing rooms in the first days of the sale only served to enrage its loyal customer base still further, with many still smarting at the sheer lack of staff and service in stores in general, as well as often inappropriate collections. Particularly for women, as we often hear, who feel the shop’s high gloss, high celebrity-count advertising doesn’t quite fit with what they’re after. i experienced the shut changing room shenanigans first hand at the kingston branch on 28 december, having popped in to see if they had any Moon fabric hats or scarves left, instead finding a half decent pair of cords (seriously they were a great colour – just needed tapering!) reduced to £22 i wanted to try on. Like me, most men, on eventually finding the fitting rooms and finding them shut off with a sign reading “To stop queues building up that might disrupt your shopping, the changing rooms will be closed over the sales period”, ditched what they had in their hands. some, with shirts and jumpers to try, simply stripped off and tried them on by the nearest mirror. Only to then find one person on a till – with a 20-deep queue to pay – so ditching the items anyhow. This is basic retailing gone wrong by a high street giant. Quite staggering really. i’ve always had quite a lot of sympathy for M&s given the stick it is usually subject to in the press if it gets the slightest thing wrong, but this time i’ve got to wade in with some stinging criticism myself. it just beggars belief that when high street trading is so tense, tough and fierce you don’t let the customers who’ve bothered to come to the store try anything on. Talk about shooting yourself in the proverbial retail foot.

Weller finallY GiveS US hiS OWn line My word, he’s done some clothing collaborations in the past, with Liam Gallagher’s Pretty Green label, Fred Perry and Ben sherman all benefitting from his hands-on approach to design and aesthetic. But now Paul Weller is coming out with

 REAL STAR PAUL WELLER

 MI PAC’S GOLD LINE RUCKSACK

his very own line, called real stars Are rare (rsAr), the result of a lifetime’s passion for clothes and style, for a/w 14. Expect plenty of sharp looks from the Modfather, who we’re assured is 100 per cent behind the project, with his money fronting it. He’s apparently even been out to the factories to do all the fittings and, if my chats in the past about his attention to detail are anything to go by, most notably comments made from Ben sherman’s Mark Maidment when they got together to do the line of candy shirts – who said Weller was insistent everything had to be absolutely spot on – then this should be something worth waiting for. Especially for Weller’s legions of fans, though he says there is “no demographic” for its appeal. There’s outerwear, shirting, knitwear and tailoring, and it’s going to be wholesaled through kevin stone’s new index-London agency. The brand name comes from a line Weller says he heard somewhere: “real

stars are rare... they only come out at night”. He comments, “Make of that what you will, but i like it and there’s a lot of truth in it! For me it’s about quality, which i hope is reflected here.” The style council has now most certainly landed.

rUckSackS Made hard!

You’ve got to hand it to Mi Pac really. With its s/s 14 new imagery for its fresh Gold Line they’re actually making rucksacks look quite hard! The geeks and mountaineer man’s special has been done in different fabrics and shot with a tattoonecked model with psychobilly haircut and denim jacket with sleeves chopped off. He’d look more at home in a clash video, but i could never quite imagine the legendary Joe strummer walking around town with a rucksack on his back. For him that would have surely been Armagideon Time.

JANUARY 2014 | DIRECTORY | 92

BiG SizeS

caSUalWear

hanGerS

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JANUARY 2014 | DIRECTORY | 93

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laSt OrderS With...

Mark haddOn victoria Jackson catches up with Mark haddon, founder of haddon Pr, and somewhat of a menswear mogul, to find out who his dream client would be to dress and what brands he’d like to see added to his current portfolio.

—

Date of birth: 24/01/72 Place of birth: London Lives now: Kent Twitter: @HaddonPR Website: www.haddonpr.com

how did the launch of your, now very successful, Pr company come about? i launched Haddon Pr in 2008; i was more than ready at that point to do my own thing. i first got into the fashion industry by working for Money clothing and heading up its Pr division. Fashion labels now work closer with artists, so Pr felt like a natural progression after i spent years working in the record industry.

You’ve worked with some amazing brands. if there was one label on your dream hit list to work with, who would it be and why?

There are a great many brands i’ve enjoyed working with, but Adidas, Nike and stone island stand out; their attention to detail is outstanding and, personally, i’ve been a fan for many years.

What’s a typical day like for you? i get up at 7am, i’m in the office by 9am, then it’s full throttle Pr till around 10pm each night.

What would you say the best part of the job is?

Working alongside industry-recognisable brands and trying to break new and up-and-coming labels are different but equally satisfying challenges. i enjoy all aspects of my job – it’s why i started the company. and the most challenging?

Trying to secure front covers and editorial features. if you could dress anyone, who would it be?

Having already dressed big stars such as Micheal Fassbender, idris Elba and Tom Hardy, i suppose ryan Gosling would now be the next person on my list…

What was your Plan B job if Pr hadn’t worked out? i would have always made it work. But secretly i would still love to be an actor or a footballer.

in terms of your personal style, do you draw inspiration for anyone in particular? What’s your standard uniform? i’m a man of a thousand looks that can be described using two very easy words – smart casual.

Where can we find you shopping, and what labels could we find in your wardrobe?

Mark Haddon-spotters will find me in selfridges and Present London. i have far too many labels in my wardrobe to mention. finally, what are you wearing right now?

Adidas zX850 trainers, Edwin selvedge denim, a Marshall Artist shirt and Native Youth jacket.

QUick-fire QUeStiOnS — Who is your mentor?

I’ve never had a mentor, but people I’ve always listened to and who have been willing to give advice include Gary Aspden from Adidas and Weekend Offender’s Aaron Thalmann.

— What piece of advice would you have given to your 16-year-old self?

Work even harder.

— What can’t you resist?

A great pair of trainers or shoes.

— Growing up I always wanted to be...?

A footballer.

— What’s the one thing you can’t live without?

My son.