MWB MAGAZINE JUNE ISSUE 213

ISSUE 213 | JUNE 2014 | £6.95 | WWW.MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

SECRET MISSION DISCOVERING WHAT’S BEHIND THE SUCCESS OF E-TAILER SECRET SALES — BUYING TIME KICKING OFF THE S/S 15 BUYING SEASON WITH MWB’S COMPREHENSIVE SHOW GUIDE

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JUNE 2014 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 07

R E T A I L 14

Online Insider Advice, news and issues online

16

Retail Insider The latest in-store news

G E N T 24

Product news Rounding up the key stories this month

26

In-season stock Natural progression

28

The Casual Dandy Chester Barrie takes a turn towards a more relaxed dress

E X H I B I T I O N 34

G U I D E

Pitti Uomo Six of the key labels to watch for s/s 15

36

Bread & Butter Brands to catch in Berlin

38

Panorama

40

Jacket Required

44

Exhibition calendar

News and developments from the German event Latest signings for the London trade show The dates, the times, the locations

D E N I M

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S T R E E T

50

Product news

52

In-season stock

54

From the showroom floor

Rounding up the key stories this month Playground culture MWB speaks to four of the UK’s key agencies

R E G U L A R S 9 10 20

Comment News Interview

56 59 62

Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With…

Nish and Sach Kukadia

Natalie Clarke

Front cover:

Ben Sherman 020 7812 5300 —

30 & 31 July 2014 The Old Truman Brewery Spring/Summer 2015 Collections — By invitation jacket-required.com

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EDITOR

JUNE 2014 | 09

CommenT

Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com — DEPuT y

EDITOR

Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — CONTRIBuTORS Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — SuB

EDITOR

Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — EDITORIAL

AS SISTANT

Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com — DESIGNERS Michael Podger michael@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — SALES

MANAGER

Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — SuB SCRIPTIONS Laura Martindale laura.martindale@ite-exhibitions.com — HEAD

OF

MENSWEAR

Jamie Harden jamie@moda-uk.co.uk — PRODuCTION

DIRECTOR

Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — PORTFOLIO

DIRECTOR

Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com

The term customer service is “overused” and “meaningless”, according to businessman Bill Grimsey, who spoke at the BIRA High Street Conference last month.

And while service with a smile is nothing to be snubbed, the conference highlighted further the power of creating a customer experience.

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— MARkETING

DIRECTOR

Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — MANAGING

DIRECTOR

Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com —

MWB is published 9 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2014 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved.

Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

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A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. RAS Publishing Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.

Grimsey not only had the audience laughing with his quick wit, but he also put forward a number of ideas about how to get shoppers back onto the high street – openly admitting he knew people would either love or loathe his suggestions.

One idea he put forward was to create a community hub in town centres.

Think fresh groceries, a café, yoga classes and somewhere for the children to play. It is all about creating the “customer experience”.

One speaker who agreed with the idea of creating a “customer experience” was Marijn Bertisen, senior industry head of retail at Google. Delivering an interesting and thought-provoking presentation, Bertisen looked at how retail technologies are constantly created, how digital developments and the internet inevitably have an impact on retail in terms of how shoppers shop and what retailers can do to engage with their customers.

He showed the audience a video that demonstrated the power of digital advances, in which footwear store Meat Pack in Guatemala used GPS technology to recognise when one of its customers was entering the official store of one of the brands sold at Meat Pack. This triggered a push notification to their mobile of a special-discounted offer, which would count down from 99 seconds. The customer then had to race to the store to get his discount – the faster he ran, the more money he got off. The retailer literally hijacked customers from its competitors. This, and the whole presentation, was certainly food for thought.

Following on from last month’s successful e-commerce guide for independent retailers, we bring you our comprehensive exhibition calendar and show previews that kick off the s/s 15 buying season. As always, if you have any comments, thoughts or any other issues email the team or tweet us at @mwbmagazine.

Victoria Jackson editor

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JUNE 2014 | NEWS | 10

N E W S

RETAILERS UNCON VINCED BY IMPACT OF SOCIAL MEDIA

MINIMUM WAGE WOES FOR RETAILERS Retailers and industry experts have expressed concern over proposals to potentially increase the national minimum wage following next year’s general election. Labour leader Ed miliband revealed plans to increase the minimum wage over a five-year period in a bid to bring Uk earnings in line with those of our European counterparts.

However, retailers under pressure from mounting costs and challenging trading conditions have reacted with disdain to the proposals.

“As a small business we cannot afford to pay above minimum wage, and a raise in this would impact us greatly as our business model runs on an already stretched budget,” says Louise Schneider, co-owner and director at Leeds independent Accent. “There needs to be more support from the government for commercial enterprise and, while minimum wage is important to protect employees, I don’t think it is right for political parties to concentrate on upping the wage to increase disposable income. The retail sector is absolutely under enough pressure as it is.”

Michael Weedon, deputy CEO and communications director at the British Independent Retailers’ Association, agrees that mounting pressure on the retail sector will have a negative impact on the overall recovery of the UK economy. “In principle, anything that pressurises the profitability of retailers will cause problems in the long-term,” he says. “Businesses are in the process of pension auto-enrolment, and anything else out of line with improving the trading economy can damage our long-term prospects. Proposals to link the national minimum wage with median earnings are very interesting and theoretically could be a good thing, but it very much depends on how this is implemented, and how far away from median earnings the new minimum rate would be.”

Labour hasn’t yet divulged what would be implemented under the five-year plan, but Miliband has vowed to set out exact figures ahead of the general election that would aim to tackle the “scandal of the five million people in work who cannot make ends meet.”

Having commissioned a report into low pay – which found that retail accounts for 21 per cent of all minimum wage jobs – the party has alluded to a differing pay scale between sectors, which would value certain skills above others. For those in the industry, however, such a proposal would open a proverbial can of worms and lead to an overcomplicated and unjust system.

“I completely disagree with talks about minimum wage for different sectors,” says Schneider. “If there was to ever be a split, a geographical spilt would make more sense due to higher living costs in particular areas.”

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Two thirds of retailers are yet to see any “direct business benefits” as a result of embracing social media, according to a survey carried out by e-commerce solutions provider ChannelAdvisor.

Most of those polled – 66 per cent – reported that they were interacting online with consumers, but only a third saw a spike in customer engagement.

Most of the respondents felt there was no impact on sales as a result of platforms such as Facebook.

“It’s great to hear that online retailers are embracing social media, but the survey results suggest that some are finding it difficult to see tangible results from their efforts,” says Zoe Ripley, ChannelAdvisor’s marketing director for EMEA. “Keeping customers engaged requires time as well as an effective social media strategy, targeted not just towards Facebook, Twitter and Pinterest users, but also to a brand’s general consumers.”

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M IN IM U M PEN SION COM M IT M EN T FOR R ETA ILER S Just five per cent of employers in the retail sector are contributing more than the legislative minimum when it comes to workplace pensions, according to research carried out by pension provider Now: Pensions.

While eight per cent of all the small businesses surveyed pledged to contribute above and beyond the legal minimum of one per cent, the retail sector cited the priority of keeping costs low and difficult trading conditions as the reasons for making the minimum contribution as employers.

Employers in the finance and property sectors proved to be the most generous, with 18 per cent pledging to contribute more than one per cent to their employees’ pension schemes. They were followed by employers in the service and education sectors, of which 12 and nine per cent respectively promised to contribute more than the legal minimum to staff pension plans.

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JUNE 2014 | NEWS | 11

IN BRIEF

NEW LICENSEES FOR ORIGINAL PENGUIN

A LVA N ON DON AT ES TECHNICAL FIT TOOL

International apparel brand Original Penguin has appointed two new licensees to design, manufacture and distribute its underwear and footwear across its UK and European markets.

Orrsum and 33 Joints will be responsible for the production of the label’s intimate apparel and footwear collections respectively, with 33 Joints taking responsibility for European-wide distribution and Orrsum concentrating solely on the UK market.

“On the back of a successful canvas shoe business, we are planning to establish Original Penguin in the casual footwear sector,” says Antony Nathan, MD at 33 Joints.

The new styles of underwear and loungewear produced under licence will take a similar stance, combining Original Penguin’s hallmark style with designs carefully positioned within the intimate apparel sector under the guidance of Orrsum.

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As part of its global fashion fit initiative, apparel fit expert Alvanon has launched a support programme entitled Fashion Fit Movement, which is set to help restore technical fashion skills and manufacturing in New york City, Europe and Hong Kong.

Alvanon will donate technical fit tools and consultancy services to selected apparel design and manufacturing businesses that are rebuilding their local production capabilities, and to industry associations that support local production efforts.

Alvanon’s first donation has been made to the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s Fashion Manufacturing Initiative (FMI), an investment fund that offers matching financial grants to select New york City fashion manufacturing businesses. The donation comprises the company’s AlvaForm technical fit mannequins and AlvaBlock pattern templates, which FMI has awarded to pattern service Werkstatt.

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R EST RU CT U R E FOR LY LE & SCOT T

PENTL AND BRANDS SCOOPS BEST WORKPL ACE GONG

Scottish menswear label Lyle & Scott will introduce three distinct divisions – sportswear, footwear & accessories and fashion – as part of a major restructure designed to strengthen its presence within each of its core sectors.

Under the guidance of the brand’s CEO, Philip Oldham, each division will be headed up by a separate director and will operate independently in a bid to “improve efficiencies, streamline operations and inevitably drive the brand forward.”

The creation of the label’s separate sportswear division is part of a wider move to build upon Lyle & Scott’s presence in the sportswear market beyond its current golf line. The footwear and accessories division, meanwhile, will be tasked with the launch of a new range of men’s underwear.

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Pentland Brands, the company behind sports, outdoor and fashion labels such as Boxfresh, Speedo, Canterbury, Hunter and Red or Dead, has been voted as one of the UK’s top 10 Best Workplaces 2014 in the Best Larger Company category, which is awarded by the Great Place to Work Institute (GPTW).

The group is the only fashion brand owner to make the 2014 list, and is ranked higher than any other retailer featured in the nominations.

Best Workplaces 2014 is selected based on an independent GPTW employee survey and analysis of various aspects of the organisational culture.

Pentland Brand’s 2,000 employees participated in the global survey, with 84 per cent saying it’s a “great place to work” and 81 per cent citing a sense of community and pride in working for Pentland Brands.

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MR PORTER LAUNCHES TUBE ADVERTISING CAMPAIGN Mrporter.com has launched an ambitious advertising campaign at London’s Canary Wharf tube station.

From 19 May to 15 June 2014 commuters will see the retailer cover 70 screens, posters and ticket gateways in the underground station. Some of the posters, created in the brand’s signature black and white design, will reach over six metres in height and contain iconic style quotes from Hardy Amies, Oscar Wilde and Orson Welles.

“We are incredibly excited to introduce Mrporter.com to a new audience with this striking campaign in one of London’s financial centres,” says Mario Muttenthaler, sales and marketing director at Mrporter.com.

“The speed, efficiency and choice offered by our luxury service, combined with weekly editorial content and over 200 of the best global brands, makes Mr Porter the perfect shopping destination for the time-starved customer. Around 3.5 million commuters will travel through Canary Wharf in the next four weeks, and we have created this bold outdoor campaign with their needs in mind.”

— SOULLAND OPENS BANGKOK STORE Following the opening of its first flagship store in Copenhagen last year, Soulland has opened its doors in Bangkok.

Joining forces with retailer Uncensored, the store is located in the new retail complex Central Embassy, which is to become the must-visit retail and urban culture destination for high-end consumers in Bangkok.

“Our radar has been on the Asian market for a while, and with Uncensored we have found the right business partner,” says Jacob Kampp Berliner, CEO, Soulland.

“We have worked closely with Uncensored for the last couple of seasons, and it really understands and appreciates the Soulland brand,” he continues. “The Bangkok store will be our second flagship and the first of more Soulland shops outside our hometown planned to follow.”

Soulland will be located next to the likes of Kenzo, Isabel Marant, APC, Tom Ford and Jil Sander.

— MA.STRUM UNVEILS NEW LUGGAGE OFFER Apparel label Ma.strum has launched its first luggage collection, including The Travellers Duffle, The Military Post Bag and The Journeyman. Key elements to the collection include a dense weave of nylon and poly fabric that is strong and water resistant, a varied colour palette and quality hardware.

The Travellers Duffle features leather zip pulls, adjustable carry straps and a removable Ma.strum ID badge. The Military Post Bag, meanwhile, includes a padded laptop compartment, multi-pocket organiser section and rear snap closure document pocket.

Finally, the Journeyman features a leather wrapped base and metal stud feet, front snap closure pockets and internal organiser pockets.

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JUNE 2014 | NEWS | 12

In BRIeF

CA SH U SE DOW N BY 1 4 PER CEN T SIN CE 2 0 0 9

U K FA SHION & T EX T ILE AWA RD WINNERS REVEALED

The use of cash to pay for purchases has decreased by 14 per cent over the past five years, as customers embrace quick and convenient ways to pay for even the smallest of purchases.

Contactless technology – which allows customers to pay by credit or debit card for transactions under £20 without typing in a PIN – has contributed to decreased cash usage, along with selfservice checkouts and ever-increasing online purchases.

The charges associated with digital payment, however, have impacted on retailers, as debit and credit card usage becomes increasingly commonplace among consumers. With the average cost of processing a credit card transaction now standing at 40.9p, the financial impact of a changing consumer mentality when it comes to paying for purchases cannot be underestimated.

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A total of 13 awards across a diversity of categories were presented to the winners of last month’s NatWest uk Fashion & Textile Awards, held at East London’s Tobacco Dock.

Hosted by TV presenter Susanna Reid, the highprofile event gathered the cream of the industry to celebrate the best uk fashion and textile businesses.

Dame Margaret Barbour was honoured with the Outstanding Achievement Award for her exceptional and long-standing contribution to the fashion industry. Designer Christopher Raeburn became a ukFT award winner for the third time, taking home the ukFT Menswear Brand accolade, having previously picked up the ukFT Rise Award in 2012 and the ukFT Designer Business Award in 2013.

African-inspired swimwear brand Okun came top among new and emerging businesses, scooping the House of Fraser ukFT Rise Award.

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E- ZON E LIVE DEBUTS AT M ODA

CLOSURE FOR MOST OF QUEEN OF SHOPS STORES

This season will see the introduction of new interactive area E-Zone Live at Moda. The dedicated e-commerce feature will bring together seminars and advice as well as key products and services in the form of a hub at the uk’s largest trade fashion show.

Launched in response to industry feedback and developments within the online trading sector, E-Zone Live will guide retailers through the process of maximising the online potential of their business.

Targeting both existing online retailers and those looking to take their first steps into e-commerce, the area will play host to a handpicked selection of industry experts who will present a programme of free seminars.

The E-Zone will be in operation throughout the three days at Moda, which takes place at Birmingham’s NEC on 10-12 August.

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Nine of the 16 independent retailers featured on BBC reality programme Mary Queen of Shops have closed since retail guru Mary Portas intervened.

The programme – which ran between June 2007 and June 2010 – initially focused on ailing fashion boutiques before diversifying into independent businesses across the retail sector. Portas visited each store while its owners were away before revamping its stock, merchandise and marketing and advising on a new, more successful business model.

However, an investigation carried out by a Sunday newspaper last month found that most of the featured stores have since closed down, despite the help given to them by the retail expert. Portas has argued that many factors affect a shop’s success. Her spokesman, meanwhile says that without Portas’ help, the stores in question may have closed even earlier.

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OTIS BATTERBEE REVEALS NEW WEBSITE Luxury travel accessories label Otis Batterbee has launched its new website, designed to help cater for the global demand of the brand, in particular the UK and US. A step-by-step guide takes the customer from the product page through to a simple and easy-to-use secure checkout.

New features include The Journal – a regularly updated section that will include interviews with celebrities taking about their travels, features on style, travel tips, plus hotel and destination guides courtesy of travel publisher and hotel booking service Mr & Mrs Smith.

Launching on the site is the brand’s new Fenton leather goods collection.

Made in England, the range includes travels wallets, watch rolls and other travel accessories with a signature embossed print across the leather.

— SELECTED HOMME COLLABORATES WITH DANIEL VAN DER NOON Menswear label Selected Homme has partnered with Denmark-based British artist Daniel van der Noon to create a capsule collection of 24 garments for a/w 14, with inspiration taken from contemporary city Metropolis.

“I have been talking with Vlatko Dukic [Selected Homme creative developer] for almost six months about this project – how should we unfold the story of Metropolis through clothing?” says designer van der Noon. “We have ended up with a collection that has an elegant sportswear look; where my artwork breathes into the very fabric and shape of the clothing itself, and the clothing too provides more than just a blank, white wall on which to apply my artwork. Though subtle, I like the simplicity of the clothing and how these two elements feed into one another.”

The collection will be available in stores and online from July 2014.

— CONS PROJECT LONDON LAUNCHES Footwear label Converse launched the latest instalment in its community project last month, aiming to engage a new generation of creativity through music, art, skate and style.

Cons Project London opened in Peckham last month, following previous successful editions in New York, Los Angeles, Warsaw and Belgrade.

Operating for 10 weeks, the project will occupy Peckham’s Copeland Gallery, acting as a hub for a series of talks, workshops and seminars.

— OPENS NEW MANCHESTER TIMBERLAND SHOWROOM Iconic footwear label Timberland is set to open a new Northern showroom in Manchester towards the end of June.

Merchandised with the brand’s s/s 15 collection – across men’s, women’s and children’s apparel and footwear – the showroom is located in a refurbished Victorian warehouse on 20 Dale Street.

Open to Timberland’s Northern accounts, the launch of the showroom is the latest development in the label’s drive in the UK wholesale market.

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3RD

EDITION

HONG

KONG

27-28

AUGUST

2014

T H E H U B . H K

A S I A ’ S D E S I G N E R

P R E M I U M F A S H I O N

B R A N D T R A D E

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JUNE 2014 | ADVICE | 14

onlIne InSIDeR Advice, news and issues online.

ADVICE: How To mAnAGe CuSTomeR expeCTATIonS In-SToRe

DAVID RuSSell is director of sales at Secure Retail, a provider of payments technology, and can be contacted through fieldworksmarketing.com

For small fashion retailers, the challenge is trying to compete with the larger players when it comes to stock availability and customer service.

This, teamed with high customer expectations, has put shop and boutique owners under pressure to up the ante and improve their service offering.

The latest wave of consumers – GenerationX – is extremely tech savvy and rely on it to enable a seamless experience, whether online or in-store.

With the retail experience more about the customer than ever before, retailers are looking to applications that will help them further personalise the shopping experience. Although, often for smaller retailers, the purse strings are tight and the latest technological developments are all but a dream.

However, this could become a thing of the past with the latest cloud systems. Cloud technology has grown in prominence over the last few years, and areas such as security and reliability are no longer a concern due to low capital and maintenance costs and the service offering having significantly improved.

Modern cloud POS models such as PowaPOS now come as an integrated package, inclusive of all operations required by a small business, with the functionality to accept card payments via Chip and PIN or contactless, connection to tablet POS (Mpos), Bluetooth barcode and QR code scanners, as well as the capability to record customer history and connect to a transactional website for improved product availability.

This level of service will turn the tables for SMEs and catapult them ahead of the competition, with software updates and applications downloadable at the click of a button.

If additional services such as Bluetooth beaconing and electronic shelf edge labelling are integrated, a retailer will have a hardware platform capable of developing targeted customer campaigns to build loyalty and drive sales.

When selecting an appropriate business system, shop owners should look for an all-in-one solution and ensure there are no hidden costs, opting for a platform with the capability to connect to other technologies such as Mpos, if and when they wish to utilise them.

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weB wATCH

www.SouTHeRnComFoRT.Com This is one for readers aged 25-plus, with even a date-of-birth check before you enter the main website. But don’t let that put you off Southern Comfort’s latest holding page, designed to coincide with the launch of its new Drink yourself Campaign. The site allows visitors to create their own cocktails, with the option of choosing the glass, type of ice and even the garnish. It’s worth a visit if you’re looking for something different to fill your time with on the tablet – plus it’s an example of a successful marketing campaign.

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newS

NEW VIRTUAL ONLINE SHOPPING PLATFORM LAUNCHES Avenue Imperial, the latest innovation in online shopping, launched last month, allowing customers to virtually walk around stores and purchase as they browse with the use of panoramic photography.

The product launched with designer boutique, Start, Shoreditch, and The Corner, Berlin, with shoppers able to visit and browse a store 24/7, not be restricted by geographical location, view the most up-to-date visual merchandising and experience the individuality of the store’s physical presence.

“A store is much more than just a product catalogue, and we want to bring the excitement of shopping back to consumers,” says Nick Rossi, CEO. “Stores and brands put a huge amount of effort into product selection, the store layout, display and the expertise of their staff. By using Avenue Imperial, customers can benefit from all of that from the comfort of their own homes. From initial feedback, we can see how fresh and immersive Avenue Imperial makes online shopping compared to the flat catalogue style e-commerce we have all got used to over the past 20 years.”

— ANDRINO ACQUIRES BRANDALLEY French group Andrino, owner of online store Private Outlet, has announced the acquisition of rival BrandAlley.

The merger of the two sites is accompanied by a refinancing plan, estimated to be worth €12m, according to a source close to the matter.

“At the end of the transaction, BrandAlley will be part of a group with a critical mass necessary in the world of e-commerce,” says Marc Heller, president of BrandAlley. “Together with the refinancing it will allow BrandAlley to continue its development by relying on its strengths – a strong brand, more than eight million members and an offer that brings together industry leading labels with both new collections and private sales while benefitting from synergies procured by the size effect.” The deal is set to close by mid-June.

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JUNE 2014 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 16

RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry.

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VIEWPOINT Qaz martin is manager at Hugh Harris menswear and formal hire in Woking, and a member of the fashion Association of Britain (FAB).

Qaz was recently named FAB Young Retailer of the Year at the Bira Conference and Gala Awards.

TOM M Y HILFIGER OPEN S EDIN BURGH STOR E Tommy Hilfiger has opened a new store in Edinburgh – the latest addition to a growing portfolio of Tommy Hilfiger shops worldwide.

Located in the city’s premium shopping district, Multrees Walk, the store spans two floors and showcases the newest Tommy Hilfiger and Hilfiger Denim, footwear and accessories collections.

Spanning 3,203 sq ft, the décor features mid-century pieces mixed with modern fixtures and graphic artwork.

“I’m excited to open our first store in Edinburgh and have the opportunity to share our cool, classic American collections with shoppers in the city,” says Hilfiger. “Preppy style was born in the UK, and our consumers have embraced the iconic, heritage designs at the heart of our brand – from classic tartans and pinstripes to versatile plaids and pop colours. Our new Edinburgh store embodies our global retail creative identity, with a mix of eclectic furnishings and vintage details that capture the preppy spirit and all-American heritage of our label.”

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IN BRIEF FALLEN HERO CLOSES Independent retailer Fallen Hero has closed its doors after over 30 years’ trading. The Lincolnshire menswear store opened a second branch in Gainsborough earlier this year – a sister store to its main location in Scunthorpe. The store’s website has also ceased trading. Stocking labels such as Luke, Pearly King, G-Star and Religion, Fallen Hero is the latest retail causality on the high street. It follows the closure of Duffer Menswear and Base earlier this year.

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AMAZON LAUNCHES TWITTER SHOPPING Global online retailer Amazon has teamed up with Twitter to offer shoppers the chance to make purchases via social media.

Consumers who wish to buy a product mentioned on Twitter will be able to tweet #amazonbasket – or #amazoncart in the US – to automatically add the item to their virtual shopping basket on the retailer’s site. In a video posted about the collaboration, Amazon claimed the move would ease the shopping process, with “no more switching apps, typing passwords or trying to remember items you saw on Twitter.”

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my father has always been keen to get me involved in his business, so he jumped at the chance to recruit me when one of the directors left the company.

As a teenager, I worked here as a Saturday boy, and then gained some valuable experience at House of Fraser after college before travelling around Europe. Working at the manager level here at 23 years old, I do feel like this is home.

Initially, my role was to manage the transactional website and the SEO side of things, but today I find that every duty falls under my remit as manager. Being part of a family business is a special privilege, and having some “young blood” in a business that has been trading for over 100 years is critical.

My father is open to new technology, but it’s true to say that such things don’t come naturally to his generation.

Serving two different customer groups – menswear and formalwear hire – our customer relationships play an important role. What do I find the most satisfying aspect of my role?

When a customer or family member returns the suits (fully in tact) after a wedding.

Invariably, they are happy and bursting with stories of their special day in which Hugh Harris has played a role. Having been involved with the male contingent of a wedding party from the outset, I can testify that just as much anticipation, insecurity and nerves affect them as the ladies. The men need attention, support and fussing over, too! Named as FAB young Retailer of the year was very humbling. To be recognised by peers and the industry as a whole has been overwhelming and touching.

As an indie, it’s easy to feel you’re just a “little guy” working away diligently. The award proved to me that my dedication and hard work was not hidden under a bushel. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

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JUNE 2014 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 17

SHOPPED: NORTHERN THREADS What are you doing to keep your business moving forward?

We have two shops – Northern Threads and Edit Clothing. We’re changing Edit and relaunching it this July under a different name, which is as yet undecided. We’re totally revamping the brand profile.

— What’s prompted that change?

When we launched Edit, it was a separate entity to sit along with – and go against – those middle-market menswear stores of the ilk of USC, Bank and Republic in terms of brand and product mix. But we want to up the profile of the whole PHIL GOODFELLOW, CO-OWNER, business. We see Northern Threads as a higher-end NORTHERN THREADS, offer that sits more in line with the likes of Van SOUTH SHIELDS Mildert, Cruise and Aphrodite in terms of brand mix.

But we want the second shop to sit just underneath.

— How will the brand mix differ?

For Northern Threads we’ve got the likes of Canada Goose, Matchless, Armani, Boss, Ralph Lauren, Vivienne Westwood and John Smedley.

But in the second shop it will be brands such as Carhartt, Penfield, Farah Vintage, Original Penguin, Marshall Artist and Adidas Originals.

It will be more “laddy” as well, as we feel the football terrace thing is coming back. We’re even going to put Ellesse and Fila in there. We’ve also been having a good time with brands such as Aquascutum and Ma.Strum. The younger customers have grown up a bit and seem to want to save their money to spend on a higher-tier product.

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IN FOCUS: OUR DAILY EDIT 23 SHIP STREET, BRIGHTON BN1 1AD

ESTABLISHED: FEBRUARY 2014 BRANDS: CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN, COMMON PEOPLE, DEMOCRATIQUE SOCKS, FINLAY & CO, GARBSTORE, HARTFORD, JEAN MACHINE, LEVIS MADE & CRAFTED, LIBERTINE LIBERTINE, OHW? SHOES, PETIT BATEAU, PORTUGUESE FLANNEL, SANDQVIST, TWO THIRDS, WILLIAM FOX & SONS, WON HUNDRED

As the name suggests, Our Daily Edit is all about providing a finely tuned, well-edited collection of clothing, footwear and accessories – for both men and women.

The idea, by couple Marc Lewis and Ella Wells, is a clean-looking unisex space that sets it apart from other independents in Brighton’s maze of streets. It’s a calm, light and relaxing store to visit and, having lived in Brighton for over 10 years, Lewis has the local knowledge. Wells moved there three years ago, but she has brought a new perspective and can see which brands and trends work well. “Brighton is full of creative and brave men when it comes to clothes – those who work in music, design and the arts,” she says. “They want their clothes to suit their lifestyle. We felt there was a need for a shop that brought emerging and exciting new designers down to Brighton; a place where people could feel inspired and discover brands they hadn’t seen before. As long as a man can appreciate design, craftsmanship and something different, I think we have found our market.” This season’s winners have so far been Common People for its blazers and shorts, Hartford for its patterned swim shorts and Sandqvist for its Stig rucksack, which has apparently sold out twice.

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Y A R D M EN SW EA R OPENS ITS DOORS New independent retailer yard Menswear opened in April this year, and has seen a successful first month, with a brand mix including Luke, Denham, Minimum and Matinique.

Based in Ossett, Wakefield, the shop is located in the town’s central market square, with neighbouring independents including The Bakers Shop and Café Vie. “It’s been an amazing first month for us,” says business manager Dean Bruce. “I think what’s helped is the setting that we’re in – a great market town with some popular independent businesses surrounding us.

“We also have around 50-60 parking spaces nearby, and the council is charging 40p per hour,” he continues. “We’ve got people coming from all over the North to visit us, so overall it’s been a great start since opening.”

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IN BRIEF ANTHEM SHUTS SHOP Anthem, the independent menswear store in London’s Shoreditch, has ceased trading across both its online retail arm and bricks-and-mortar store. According to the website, it stopped trading on 30 April, while the physical shop has a “Shop gone pop, 70 per cent off everything” sign in the window. The store, owned by Simon Spiteri, former head of menswear at Liberty, was renowned for its niche brand portfolio, being the first to buy into many now successful brands.

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A mIleSTone SeASon FoR moDA GenT Find yourself at the heart of uk’s menswear fashion and accessories scene, as moda returns to the neC Birmingham on 10-12 August 2014 for its 25th edition.

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BENVENUTO

OLYMP

moda Gent will open the doors to the uk’s widest selection of men’s clothing and accessories labels, and for spring/summer 2015, its 25th show, there will be a fresh new look across the hall. keeping up the high standards the event has set over the seasons, European lifestyle brands will be out in force, with the likes of Camel Active, Benvenuto, olymp, Casa moda, Fynch-Hatton, Venti and Seidensticker among the labels heading up this season’s billing.

The show will also welcome a strong contingent of tailoring brands, with a host of British heritage labels leading the way. Gibson, maddox Street london, Bladen and magee will be among the brands presenting their latest summer collections.

Continuing to diversify the product offer across the exhibition, Select will once again

present the best in men's urban and contemporary footwear and apparel. The newly focused area will welcome back brands such as celebrity favourite T.u.k, footwear specialist Justin Reece, shirt brand 1 like no other and Björn Borg as well as a host of emerging names and industry leaders.

Meanwhile, in neighbouring Moda Footwear, newcomers paolo Vandini will join the likes of Dr martens, mustang and Ikon Footwear, to create the strongest men’s footwear line-up to date, providing yet another dimension for menswear retailers this season. keep an eye out for Moda Gent’s 25th celebrations with the show’s #tag campaign, which is set to recall key memories and moments from brands, visitors and organisers in the run up to the event. Search #ModaGent25 on Twitter and tell the team about your Moda Gent memories.

CASA MODA

JUNE 2014 | PROMOTION | 19

VENTI

1 LIKE NO OTHER

BAC K TO BE E C HE S

Moda strikes the perfect balance between work and play with social events to suit the summer season. Join colleagues and peers to toast the first day of business at a drinks reception held after the show at the NEC, and make sure you don’t miss out on tickets for the Monday night party, to be held at The Beeches bar and grill – a five-minute drive from the NEC. — FYNCH-HATTON

DAI LY I NSPI R AT I O N AND ADVI C E

Adding value season on season, Moda’s daily catwalk and seminar programme promises both trend inspiration and practical business advice. The programme for spring/summer 2015 is set to include topics such as SEO, stock control and the secret to writing the best online product descriptions.

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I NT RO DU C I NG E - ZO NE LI VE

MUSTANG

Fresh for August 2014, Moda will introduce E-Zone Live, a brand new area dedicated to e-commerce and retail technologies. Find out how to improve, review or start your own e-commerce platforms with daily workshops and demonstrations, as well as interacting with the latest technologies – set to make business easier.

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Discover the latest brands, news from the show and register for your free ticket to visit online today at moda-uk.co.uk

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INTERVIEW

NISH AND SACH kUkADIA With £4.5m of new investment, brothers and founders of flash sales website Secret Sales Nish kukadia (left), and Sach kukadia – CEO and buying director respectively – are accelerating a business that saw 70 per cent net sales growth in 2013.

Tom Bottomley meets the entrepreneurs.

— Tom Bottomley: What were your backgrounds before launching Secret Sales in 2007?

Nish Kukadia: Our father PD Kukadia – he only goes by his initials – was a director and shareholder of Pepe Jeans, so we grew up surrounded by people who were working in the industry, and we got very familiar with product.

Sach was always into the product, I was not that comfortable with “fashion”. I was a super introvert at school, whereas Sach was captain of the football, rugby and cricket teams. I was head librarian. I went into advertising and was obsessed by the advertising industry. I wanted to work for a strategic agency, so I worked at WPP. I specialised in digital and really caught the bug for working on the web. I understood how to drive traffic and was doing that for Sony Ericsson, Visa, Xerox and Microsoft – right across Europe. I think the reason Secret Sales works is that Sach and I contribute in different ways. We have different talents.

Sash Kukadia: The opposite to Nish, I was really enthusiastic about everything my father did. So I attended all of the fashion shows and trade shows with him. I worked for my father with Hardcore jeans – a spin-off from Pepe. I also worked for an import and export company that he started up. So I learnt the pricing structures for the UK market through the experiences I gained with my father, and also the selection process. We were buying and selling stocks in Europe, and selling them into discount retailers in the UK. So when we came to starting this business we had a lot of insight in what we needed to do. We had very little money. Our website initially cost us £10,000 to start up.

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FOUNDERS SECRET SALES

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TB: Where has this new investment come from and what do you intend to do with it?

NK: The £4.5m investment has been led by two French funds – Partech International, through its new flagship Partech VI fund, and 123Venture, as well as existing investors Pentech and Doughty Hanson. We’ve got a precise formula on customer acquisition, and the new investment will enable us to invest in new technology, analytics and data. It’s more than just capturing new customers, it’s about really getting under the skin of what the different elements of exposure are that are influencing customers to buy.

— TB: What level of sales does the website generate?

NK: We did £27.4m last year, but we’re growing at a decent rate and this year we are so far exceeding our target. We should be on track to be around 40 per cent up on last year. The UK will remain our main focus for the next 12 months.

— TB: How big are mobile sales to you?

NK: Mobile is a massive part of what we do.

Around 55 per cent of our sales are now coming from mobile phones and tablets. That’s grown from less than 20 per cent just over a year ago.

— TB: What made you come up with the business model in the first place?

NK: The excess inventory market lacked a lot of innovation. We could see business models trying to tackle it in France, Germany and other European markets, but we know the UK market dynamics are very different. So we had to figure out a specific band of categories and marketing channels, as well as a way of communicating and with engaging customers that could shake the excess inventory market here in a really positive way. It’s actually less about excess inventory now, and much more about becoming a viable longterm retail partner for brands.

SK: When we started the business, there was an education process. We went to trade shows and met with many brands to try to increase our awareness. Now we’ve increased in size, we’ve become more relevant, and labels are now seeing Secret Sales as an additional revenue stream, so it’s not just a matter of clearance.

— TB: Could it come to a point where brands might provide exclusive product for Secret Sales?

NK: We have had labels talk to us about that, yes.

JUNE 2014 | INTERVIEW | 21

But I think at the moment there’s so much natural product available for us. We’re still just scratching the surface of what’s out there.

— TB: So aside from an excellent platform for brands to clear excess stock, what are the other attractions for labels to Secret Sales?

NK: We have this huge database of superengaged customers. We’ve got some customer groups buying 20 times a year. We’ve also got customers who visit us every single day. It’s a powerful platform to position an upcoming brand on – to expose it to a much wider audience. Buying on Secret Sales almost becomes a gateway to buying full price. Customers get a taste for a brand that they might not have ordinarily. We also have a successful nationwide TV advertising campaign that goes out on Sky, Channel 4 and ITV, as well as a lot digital channels. Online sales are becoming so important to labels, and we’re at the cutting edge, so labels are coming to us. We launch between six and 10 new sales every day.

— TB: How did you go about persuading brands that it was a respectable way of clearing excess stock in the first place?

SK: When we started we were the first flash sales business in the UK, so the whole education process was difficult to get over. For the first few months we were purchasing stock and committing to certain orders. We had to test it, and get the formula right. We were trying to understand what it was that UK customers wanted in terms of discount and selling price. Secret Sales is all about spontaneity. It’s about the impulse, and there is a formula in getting that right. You don’t want customers to consider too much when they’re on the site. You want them to come on the website and purchase within minutes. Within our first year we sold around 2,000 units of Adidas Originals shoes within three days. When we had certain case studies to present, we were able to knock on the doors of certain brands and deliver them relevant information. Early partners of ours were John Smedley, True Religion, Diesel, Desigual, Oliver Sweeney, Rockport, Ray Ban, Samsonite and many other beautiful brands. Accessories is a big part of our business.

—

TB: How has the amount of brands you work with evolved?

SK: Our portfolio used to support almost 900 brands, but what we’re doing now is refining it down. We’re only currently working with 650, but moving forward we’re going to actively reduce that. We’ve found our customers really respond to a more curated edit.

— TB: What is the other big appeal to a four-day flash sale for brands?

SK: The beauty is you’re able to sell a very high volume of stock over a very short period. Because it’s only on for four days, you’re generating an urgency from a customer’s point of view. It’s available here and now, but it will soon all be gone.

What’s also brilliant is that brands can sell their stock in a quiet environment that doesn’t cause the brand any devaluation or jeopardise their integrity. And it doesn’t compromise other retailers. Hence the name Secret Sales. It does what it says on the tin.

— TB: How does it work with the brands?

SK: As a business we are very flexible. Once it was properly up and running, during the early years of Secret Sales we decided to adopt the consignment model only. Being a boot-strapped business, we didn’t have the opportunity to buy lots of stock like other businesses could. And that’s conditioned us into the way we work. We still think like a boot-strapped business. We don’t like to deviate from our strategy but, as we grow in size, if a brand requires us to make a fixed purchase, we will happily do that. But the consignment model, which is when the labels reserve stock on our behalf, and we run a four-day sale – placing the purchase order afterwards, adds a lot of benefit.

— TB: Why is that?

SK: Simply, volume. When we buy we’re always quite prudent. With a consignment sale, the brands don’t release the stock until it is sold, then it goes directly to our warehouse to be picked, packed and dispatched within 24-48 hours. We can also give feedback and qualified data on what it is that is really selling well. That information goes to our team of buyers, too.

“We did £27.4m last year, but we’re growing at a decent rate and this year we are so far exceeding our target. We should be on track to be around 40 per cent up on last year”

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G E N T

vinTage in aPPearanCe Championed by the likes of musician miles kane, irish actor robert Sheehan and artist Hayden kays, and shot for campaigns with Hasselblad, Save Wild Tigers and agent Provocateur, contemporary menswear brand Dent de man has garnered a respectable following among the music and creative communities.

Hailing from the fashion, art and culture hub that is East London, the label demonstrates a unique approach to style with classic tailoring with individually sourced fabrics.

Standing ďŹ rmly away from digital print, it uses vintage print designs from Batik and Java origin, respecting wax block and Javanese printing techniques. While developing simple tailoring with a contemporary aesthetic, the designs manage to remain both vintage and directional in their concept. —

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Product news

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in-season stock

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The Casual Dandy

Rounding up the key stories this month Natural progression Chester Barrie takes a turn towards a more relaxed dress

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raDar

ProDuCT neWS

Spotlighting style.

inside menswear.

GE NT LE M AN’ S RU N Menswear label Cinque looks to the traditional mixed with modern, sportswear-inspired design for its s/s 15 collection.

Buyers can expect a palette of black, white, navy, blue, light grey and stone, while fabrics such as robust leather, clean jerseys, cotton stretch and flamé jerseys are key.

Highlights include the light knit in a modern structure and a cool wash effect, printed stripes, cotton stretch basic, vest and polo styles in an innovative 3D structure.

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DUKES ESTABLISHED: 2013 — SIGNATURE STYLE: British heritage footwear with a contemporary twist. The brand focuses on classic designs and adds modern touches, such as unique colourways.

— HISTORY: Established by Daisy Livett, Dukes was created to produce handmade, high-quality shoes without the price tag.

The initial concept behind footwear label Dukes was to create a handmade brand of high-quality products, minus the premium price tag they would usually carry.

Inspired by all things British, designer Daisy Livett looks to timeless, classic pieces, such as the Chelsea boot crossed with modern street style and vibrant colours teamed with a classic shape.

Crafted in Spain, each pair takes 21 days to produce, ensuring the quality of the boots are to the highest standard – perfect for its target customer, who is described by the brand as “confident and style savvy with a classic taste and appreciation of traditional designs.”

“Our customers spend most of their money on the high street, but also enjoy making one-off, higher-end purchases to make an outfit individual and unique,” says Livett. “They are happy to spend money on pieces that are high quality and will remain key, wearable pieces.”

Spring/summer 2015, meanwhile, sees the continuation of the Chelsea boot design across womenswear and menswear, as well as the development of loafers, still incorporating the signature Duke touch. www.dukesboots.com

SU N E SSE NT I ALS Beachwear label Òkun launched into the market less than a year ago and already counts the likes of Le Bon Marche in Paris, La Rinascente in Milan, Tokyo’s United Arrows and London’s Anderson & Sheppard among its stockists.

The brand’s signature style is a blend of African prints and bold colourways that are neither traditional nor avant-garde.

With a pop-up in London’s Soho planned for later this month, as well as an expansion into small leather goods and accessories made in Africa due for a/w 14, the next year will see Òkun become a popular option for independents looking for a label with a difference.

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ON TREND Seasonal extras: grooming essentials

WAR DRO BE E SSE NT I E L Launching as a womenswear label in 1999, it wasn’t until 2004 that Essentiel Antwep extended its offer into menswear. Created by design duo Esfan Eghtessadi and Inge Onsea, the brand is a mix of casual, classic, smart and quirky wardrobe staples.

With seven standalone stores currently located in Belgium and two in France, the label is now looking to enter the UK wholesale market with its menswear, with average wholesale prices ranging from €65 to €70. In terms of future plans, the brand is creating a capsule collection in collaboration with Belgian model Cesar Casier, and making its debut at Capsule Paris for s/s 15.

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2

3

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5

1: CZECH & SPEAKE price on request 020 7439 0216 2: D R HARRIS available at Mr Porter RRP £85 020 7930 3915 3: TRIUMPH & DISASTER RRP £9.95 020 8942 7603 4: OTIS BATTERBEE £30 020 7734 8588 5: WANT LES ESSENTIELS DE LA VIE price on request www.wantessentiels.com

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

BranD To WaTCH

FRANCK MICHEL Starting life as a shop in the heart of Paris, Franck michel subsequently developed into a clothing label in 2007, focusing primarily on shirting.

The brand is now pushing its presence in the UK market, with sales managed by independent retailer and agent Ashley Baigent of Green Ginger Agencies. “We have retailed Franck Michel in our store Land of Green Ginger for the past six years, and it has consistently been our bestselling shirt brand,” says Baigent.

With wholesale prices ranging from £22 to £28, and retailing from £65 to £90, it is obvious to see why the label has had such a successful start to its initial drive in the UK independent retail market, while its success in the global market is clear to see with 200 accounts across France, Spain, Belgium and New York.

Design-wise, each collection blends smart/casual shirts with quirky features such as Italian collars. The shirts are also cut into a slim fit that flattens the stomach and broadens the shoulders.

The new season, meanwhile, will see the brand test waters with a women’s line, as well as introducing a slighting more causal range of shirts to the full collection.

ESTABLISHED: 1969 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Smart/casual with a twist, including quirky features such as Italian collars that highlight the underside print, as well as the clever use of colours and patterns on cuffs, button line and buttons.

— HISTORY: Created by Stephane Minian in 1969, Franck Michel originated as a shop where Minian’s grandfather designed many of the products sold himself in Marais, Paris.

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SWIMS £40 0161 222 8048

MERC £21 020 7495 8538

TRIWA £100 020 7377 9083

BOOMERANG £22 020 7603 4500

FRANK WRIGHT £30 01706 212512

1 LIKE NO OTHER PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7637 7650

SIMON CARTER £29 020 8683 4475

naTural ProgreSSion neutral shades work across relaxed casualwear and sleeker tailoring this season. Tone-on-tone dressing is a grown-up approach to summer, with minimalist footwear carving the basis of the trend.

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J SHOES £38 01858 468123

SKOPES £36 0113 240 2211

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

DKODE £42 0035 1255340880

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THe CaSual DanDy long regarded as a staple suit brand by any store worth its suit department, Chester Barrie is leaving those stringent shackles behind to offer up an altogether more dressed-down “smart-casual” style through its main line and its more accessible Chester by Chester Barrie offer. Tom Bottomley gets the new take on an old classic from the label’s sales and marketing manager, Chris Scott-gray.

— Chester Barrie has been ruffling a few feathers ever since it became the first ready-to-wear tailoring business on Savile row in 1937 – not long before the outbreak of World War ii. It went in all guns blazing, with American customers initially the main focus of its business, before winning over fans here, too – and no doubt putting a few of Savile Row’s finest and most respected noses out of joint. It wasn’t bespoke and, therefore, it just wasn’t cricket.

Fast-forward through the 60s, 70s and 80s of the brand’s heyday – right up the late 90s, when it was producing the earlier offers for Ralph Lauren’s Purple Label (it traditionally had a large own-label arm to its business and is a well-regarded suiting specialist), and here we are at a new crossroads in the brand’s history. A more “smart-casual” look has been adopted but, with all the thought and detail that goes into the tailoring, it’s just that bit more special. Outerwear, knitwear, blazers and trousers as well conceived separates, are all key to the new looks. It’s dress down, but maybe not as we know it. Still sharp, just not as stuffy.

Chester Barrie’s sales and marketing

manager, Chris Scott-Gray, will be unveiling the new s/s 15 offer, featuring the all-new more casual approach to design and styling, during London Collections: Men. He says, “It suits us because we’ll see a good spread of buyers and press. We did a presentation at The Ivy restaurant last time, and the response was excellent.” This season the venue is the Ice Tank at 5-7 Grape Street, Covent Garden, on Tuesday 17 June at 3.30-5.30pm.

“We’re not saying s/s 15 is a relaunch as such,” says Scott-Gray. “Though some retailers may well perceive it as such. It’s more of a repositioning. It’s about getting people to understand that Chester Barrie is more than just a suit brand. We’re trying to embrace that slightly more casual market. But we’re not a jeans and T-shirt business, and we never will be.”

It’s a much wider offer and a lot of emphasis has been put on creating trousers that “don’t just belong to a suit.” Some of the knitwear and cotton tops are also shining through. “And there are nontailored jackets, too,” says Scott-Gray. “It’s a much wider offer, and outerwear is strong. Most retailers these days don’t just want ‘another suit brand’;

they need a broader offer, though ‘lifestyle’ is a much over-used expression.”

The target market has not necessarily changed, however. “We’re still targeting a guy who is 30-plus, relatively well paid and needs to look good on most occasions,” says Scott-Gray.

“Our Savile Row history helps, though ‘heritage brand’ is something we’d steer clear of. You have to have far more relevance to the market – and to the customer – than just saying, ‘Oh, we’ve been around for quite a long time.’”

He says it’s more about “authenticity” and, because the brand has been on Savile Row – and in existence for nearly 80 years – people know that it understands clothes. “We know how to put a garment together,” says Scott-Gray. “What we’re really good at as a tailoring business is turning a bit of cloth into a 3D shape and giving it some form and body.”

Coming from that tailoring base, it can bring “life” to other garments, too, because it has the technical expertise and aesthetic. “It’s about having those ‘smart-casual’ pieces that really work,” says Scott-Gray. “The Americans call it ‘the

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third wardrobe’ – that section in between your casual wardrobe and your tailored work wardrobe.

It’s hard to find a better definition.”

Chester Barrie was founded in 1935 by Simon Ackerman, an Englishman living in New York. He could see there was a demand for English tailoring in the States, so he set up a factory in the North of England and a showroom in London, with the first premises on Savile Row taken in 1937 to start selling to the American market. But Ackerman saw there was also a demand for what he was doing here. Then World War II started, and it slowed the business down. He spent a lot of time making officer’s uniforms.

“What is important to Chester Barrie is that it’s a ready-to-wear business,” says Scott-Gray.

“We’re not a bespoke house and never have been.

But what we’ve always tried to do is offer the quality and attention to detail you get with bespoke, but in a ready-to-wear product.” ScottGray emphasises that Chester Barrie was in fact one of the first ready-to-wear menswear brands.

“As a result, we’ve always been thought of as a ‘Johnny-come-lately’ by the traditional Savile Row bespoke houses,” he says. “There are organisations that we’re not allowed to be members of to this day, because we don’t have a cutter in the basement!”

A lot of what Chester Barrie has done in the past has included making for other brands and retailers – often under its own name. That was from after World War II to 2002. Former clients include

Huntsman (surprisingly as it’s one of Savile Row’s oldest bespoke houses) and, as pre-mentioned, Ralph Lauren’s Purple Label collection in the late 90s. “During the 40s and 50s we were making a lot of own label for Harrods,” says Scott-Gray. “The demand was so great that it came to a point where we said let’s call it Harrods

by Chester Barrie. And it was then that the name started to get some extra leverage.” It was Myron Ackerman who was running it, Simon the founder’s son.

The brand stormed it from the 60s – with its own name then the all-important focus. “Any department store you went into in London had a Chester Barrie area that probably took up half of the tailoring department,” says Scott-Gray. “If you were a director or chairman of the board of any major company, you had to have a Chester Barrie suit. In fact, you weren’t allowed to join ‘the club’ I suspect, unless you had a Chester Barrie suit!”

Christopher Modoo, who goes under the title of creative and buying manager is, for all intents and purposes, Chester Barrie’s designer – though his brief is somewhat wider. “I didn’t go to design college and I can’t draw,” says Modoo. But he does seem to know an awful lot about product.

“When I joined Selfridges in 1991, the suit department was still dominated by Chester Barrie,” he says. “It was the same size at the ‘designer room’ with the likes of Paul Smith, Armani, Kenzo and so on. So it was huge. I was running the Thomas Pink concession at the time, but I

“It’s about getting people to understand that Chester Barrie is more than just a suit brand. We’re trying to embrace that slightly more casual market. But we’re not a jeans and T-shirt business, and we never will be”

can see what a great brand Chester Barrie was.”

Modoo was at Ede & Ravenscroft for 10 years, managing the formal tailoring – ready-towear and made-to-measure – before joining Chester Barrie three and a half years ago. “We used to do a couple of shirts and knitwear here and a few ties there for Chester Barrie, but now we have a standalone shirt and tie collection, and a much fuller range of knitwear and accessories,” says Modoo.

Chester Barrie is now looking to grow its presence through independents, though it does have its own shop-in-shops in eight House of Fraser stores, Harvey Nichols in Knightsbridge and Austin Reed on Regent Street. For buyers, there will be some pleasant surprises and pieces you wouldn’t ordinarily associate with the Chester Barrie brand. But all executed with sharp finishing and style – which Modoo is very passionate about.

“I think there are two ways we can hit independents,” says Scott-Gray. “The more upmarket usual suspects will be targeted for sure with Chester Barrie, but we’re also putting a lot of emphasis on our sub brand, Chester by Chester Barrie, to hit a slightly wider market.”

It’s been going for around 10 years, but it was previously under licence. It has since been brought back in-house, and s/s 15 will be Modoo’s first collection for the Chester by Chester Barrie line as well. “We ran them pretty much as two separate businesses for a while,” says Scott-Gray.

“But now there’s much more continuity.” And much more variety, too. Going forward, Chester Barrie could well be the name on well-heeled buyers’ lips once more, though Chester by Chester Barrie could prove an even bigger hit.

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pITTI uomo 17-20 June 2014 Fortezza da Basso, Florence preparing to kick off the european menswear calendar, pitti uomo is set to welcome some of the finest names in tailoring, apparel, footwear and accessories. And with over 40 per cent of exhibitors from 30 different countries, it is clear to see the focus for the Italian exhibition is on internationality this season.

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pitti uomo, the key international trade event showcasing men’s fashion and contemporary lifestyle trends, will take place in Florence’s Fortezza da Basso later this month, welcoming over 30,000 visitors from countries including Japan, China, Russia, the uS, Belgium and the uk.

In its 86th season, the show continues its tradition of basing each event on a specific theme, with the s/s 15 edition entitled Ping Pitti Pong. This will shine the spotlight on the simplest, almost-Zen aspects of sports.

The Centro di Firenze per la Moda Italiana will celebrate its 60th anniversary with the Firenze Hometown of Fashion programme of events at this season’s Pitti uomo such as designer fashion shows, live installations, the new lighting for the Ponte Vecchio, a gift of Stefano Ricci, and films, including a tribute to the city by international fashion leaders Salvatore Ferragamo, Gucci, Emilio Pucci, and Ermanno Scervino.

One of the special events on the Firenze Hometown of Fashion calendar is Pitti Italics, the ongoing project through which the Fondazione Pitti Discovery promotes and supports the new generation of Italian fashion designers. At this edition, Pitti Italics puts the focus on lifestyle brand Marcelo Burlon County of Milan and young but acclaimed Made in Italy label Au Jour Le Jour.

With the setting designed by Oliviero Baldini, Ping Pitti Pong will include a collaboration with Italian newspaper La Gazzetta dello Sport, and will see an appearance by the national Italian table tennis team. Buyers, journalists and bloggers will also have the chance to compete in a table tennis tournament.

British design house Mr Start, meanwhile, will join the likes of kritian Guerra, Orange Culture, Period Features, Samufi and WeberHodelFeder for the second edition of The Latest Fashion Buzz,

which will see a handpicked selection of designs from each label showcased in the Sala Ottagonale – located within the grounds of Pitti uomo.

A brand new concept area launching for the 86th edition is the Just Like a Man space. Located on the entire upper level of the Main Pavillion and designed by Patricia urquiola, it will house key contemporary high-end men’s fashion. Created around the concept of a Gentleman’s Club, the space will feature labels such as Proraso – the famous premium Italian shaving brand.

For the past several seasons, the Fondazione Pitti Discovery has been shining the spotlight on new stars on the international creative and business scene. This season, in co-operation with kocca (korean Creative Content Agency), the guest nation will be South korea – a country that has distinguished itself as one of the most interesting places in fashion research today.

The s/s 15 show will see a number of reentries to its brand mix, including Borsalino, Brooksfield, Custo, Eleven Paris, Massimo Alba and Woolrich Woolen Mills. There will also be a strong Japanese presence, with names such as kogen 1940, Hybrid Sensor, Cyprus, Raglux, Gim, Calzoni and Nagashimaq Fukushoku exhibiting.

In terms of debuts at the show, Ron Herman will make its European unveiling, while denim specialist G-Star will reveal the brand’s Raw For The Oceans range – a collaboration with musician Pharrell Williams. Tiger Jay and North Sails will also unveil their partnership – the Tiger Jay x North Sails capsule collection.

The sixth edition of Who Is On Next? uomo, meanwhile, will see finalists such as Jimi Roos, Maison Lvchino, Studiopretzel, T.Lipop, Alberto Premi Design and Mobi compete for the prize of a placement on global e-commerce site yoox.com. www.pittimmagine.com

GueST DeSIGneR Z Zegna The launch of the new Z Zegna collection, designed by Murray Scallon and Paul Surridge, will be the guest designer at Pitti uomo 86, which will consist of a performance held at the Stazione Leopolda on the evening of 19 June 2014. “We are very happy that such an important player on the international men’s fashion scene such as Zegna will be menswear guest designer, and that it chose Florence to present its newest proposal and stylistic identity of its collection,” says Gaetano Marzotto, president of Pitti Immagine.

e-pITTI The spring/summer 2015 edition of Pitti uomo 86 will see the unveiling of the brand new e-PITTI.com – a project created with innovative technological standards, with quality editorial content and a more functional and updated design. The site will feature trends for the new season through articles, images and videos of the collections from the show.

How To GeT THeRe Visitors can reach Florence airport with regular flights from London. But for most uk visitors, the easiest option is a flight to Pisa, followed by a short train journey from Pisa airport with direct connections to Florence. Alternatively, there are regular flights from London to Bologna, which is an hour’s drive from Florence.

SPRING/SUMMER 2015

PREMIUM INTERNATIONAL FASHION TRADE SHOW

PREMIUM ORDER MUNICH

jul 8–10

aug 9–12

STATION-Berlin

MOC Munich

W W W. P R E M I U M E X H I B I T I O N S . CO M

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JUNE 2014 | EXHIBITION GUIDE | 33

D A T E I N T H E D I A R Y

mwB’s comprehensive guide to the exhibitions to visit this spring/summer 2015 buying season, including the brands to watch and dates to remember across the european calendar. —

34

pitti uomo Six of the key labels to watch for s/s 15

36

Bread & Butter

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panorama

Brands to catch in Berlin News and developments from the German event

40

Jacket Required Latest signings for the London trade show

44

exhibition calendar The dates, the times and the locations

www.mwB-onlIne.Co.uk

JUNE 2014 | PITTI UOMO | 34

pITTI uomo The Centro di Firenze per la moda Italiana is celebrating its 60th anniversary and, in honour of the occasion, the Firenze Hometown of Fashion is launching a programme of special events during pitti uomo, which takes place on 17-20 June. There will also be plenty to look forward to at the show itself. Here’s a little taster from Tom Bottomley.

—  BL AU E R Since 1935, Blauer has been America’s leading supplier of technical clothing for all police forces and some selected sections of the army, such as uS Navy officers or the special agents assigned to the White House. The story of the brand continues today, with success in the fashion market thanks to FGF Industry, owner of CP Company and Ten C. uk retailers giving it a go include Van Mildert, Cruise and Choice, but there’s plenty of scope for other independents in search for something different going forward. For s/s 15, there’s a “biker” theme going on, with performance at the core as it has been with all Blauer products going back in time. key pieces include a super-light, coloured, perforated leather biker jacket. There’s also a nod to American sportswear and spring outerwear pieces in ultra-light down or Primaloft.

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 VALSTAR “STARTI NG OVER” C O LL ABO R AT I O N W I T H U NI T E D AR ROW S A new project that sees manufacturer and retail client come together to produce something unique for s/s 15 – a fusion of tradition and innovation and a synthesis between tailoring and creativity. It’s kept very simple, with four models described as “Valstar icons”, so obviously garments they are well known for making to a high standards. There are two leather blouson styles, and two raincoats in different materials. All garments are sewn in the “made in Italy” tradition, and heat sealed. They are also stylish and innovative at the same time, and completely waterproof.

Pretty clever, and you just know they’re going to look good. united Arrows from Japan is one of the finest shops worldwide and known for its dedication to research, evolution and design – always worth keeping an eye on.

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 SAND Sand is one of those Scandinavian brands that gets taken for granted.

But, the label is always at Pitti, and it always has something worth looking at – particularly when it comes to colour, and good jackets and shirts. Formal, but with a Danish take on it. It’s also a brand that’s a lot bigger than many might think. Prints are big news in its all-new s/s 15 collection, with dots in all sizes and combinations, abstract florals, jungle prints and small geometric patterns. There are also classic weaves in new blends on jackets, with linen in a panama weave and a jacquard graphic pattern that gives a 3D effect. Guess you’ve got to see it to believe it. Current plans are to continue to grow into a younger customer base by slimming the fits and making the general look of the collection more sleeker. There are no plans for a standalone uk shop just yet, but Sand has recently appointed a new international sales manager – karri Jalkanen – who will look after the wholesale business outside of Denmark. This collection could give him a flying start.

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JUNE 2014 | PITTI UOMO | 35

 Z Z E GNA Obviously Zegna is a brand that needs no introduction, but it’s been a while since it has been involved with Pitti. This time round, however, it’s been invited to be the special Menswear Guest Designer, with a show in Florence on the evening of 19 June, with its Z Zegna line – given a fresh aesthetic for s/s 15. Technical, high-performance fabrics and intelligent details combine, with all main product categories introducing innovation for an updated attitude to tailoring and sportswear. A new Z Zegna store concept will be disclosed for s/s 15, with openings in key worldwide locations planned.

Gildo Zegna, CEO of Ermenegildo Zegna Group, says, “Zegna is developing a new business tool to target the evolving and specific needs of the menswear market. The new Z Zegna collection will concentrate its efforts to drive attention to different product categories season after season, from ready-to-wear to accessories. The aim of the new Z Zegna range is to gain a solid position in the accessible luxury segment.”

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 HANCOC K Specialist outerwear brand Hancock only launched at Pitti in June 2012, but it seems like an integral part of the show because it always seems to bring something different. For s/s 15, it’s launching vulcanised luggage handmade by Alstermo in Sweden, and a leather bag collaboration with Bonastre.

The Converse Jack Purcell and Hancock collaboration, which launched this spring – featuring Hancock rubber-bonded (vulcanised) uppers – is also set to continue, as is the collaboration on outerwear with Timothy Everest. uk and Ireland sales are now handled by Index London. Partner of Index London, kevin Stone, says, “We are thrilled to be working with Hancock because it fits beautifully into our portfolio of brands. We have a strong outerwear mix, and all our labels cleverly combine their heritage with modernity. Hancock is no exception.”

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 T I GE R J AY X NO RT H SAI LS Originating in the 30s, the J-Class series of sailing yachts is still considered one of the most beautiful designs ever to sail the famous Americas Cup. It was thought only 10 J-Class yachts existed worldwide, but that changed when an 11th design was recently rediscovered. The Tiger Jay will be ready to set sail in 2015 under the number J-11, in collaboration with North Sails – one of the most advanced sailmakers worldwide. The elegant, sleek lines of the original 1937 design have been fused with sophisticated modern technology. But what’s all this got to do with menswear? The research that has gone into the development of the Tiger Jay J-Class yacht is seamlessly being transferred to the Tiger Jay collection; a premium menswear line, offering highly technical aspects to classic menswear pieces – items to be worn when racing, or back on shore. Each piece “reflects the splendour of the J-Class yachts”, as well as the modern, cutting edge technology that has gone into the build of the Tiger Jay yacht. The range will be introduced exclusively to a small selection of the world’s finest retailers at Pitti.

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JUNE 2014 | BREAD & BUTTER | 36

BReAD & BuTTeR From the key names in denim through to streetwear and urban fashion, Bread & Butter Berlin showcases what’s new in contemporary menswear, footwear and accessories.

—  BERTONI Danish label Bertoni makes its debut at Bread & Butter this season, with a strong collection of both tailored and more casual wardrobe additions.

The spring season sees a range of subtle colours, prints and checks, while bright tones sit alongside more dusty shades. In terms of fabrics, buyers can expect mixed qualities such as wool, cotton, linen and summer mohair.

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 K SW I SS

 BE N SHERMAN Iconic British label Ben Sherman returns to Bread & Butter this season, with a collection taking influence from the British Summer Time.

Expect graphic prints inspired by sticky Brighton rock alongside illustrations of bunting from a nostalgic sports day. Signature Harrington jackets and polos set the tone for the season, along with heritage blazers and block-colour T-shirts. Ben Sherman Denim continues with three fits – straight, slim and skinny – as well as the addition of denim shorts to the mix.

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Looking back into the k Swiss archives, the s/s 15 collection offers a broad selection of 90s comebacks and iconic performance tennis shoes.

Relaunching for the new season is the Si-18 model in its original colourways, while Classic Americana is used as the inspiration for a traditional red, white and blue colour palette across the complete range.

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 BLE ND

 DENHAM Denim specialist Denham offers a modern workwear colour palette of indigo, navy, washed army green and khaki for s/s 15. The collection includes a custom-printed macintosh, featuring Matt Moore’s – the season’s guest artist at Denham – bespoke graphics, pigmented coated chambray, super-stretch khaki, Bedford cord, cotton-linen, bonded dandy-sweat and the new Denham ReCut Swedish herringbone trouser twill.

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Offering a selection of mix-and-match separates, Blend creates trend-led pieces for the younger contemporary market. Layering and accessorising are key, with pieces designed to be worn for both casual and slightly more formal occasions. The brand will also showcase its latest development, Casual Friday, which caters for the slightly more grown-up Blend consumer.

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 ANTO NY M O R ATO The Antony Morato s/s 15 collection is split into three lines – Black, Gold and Silver. The Black range is the more trend-driven offer, featuring tailoring and contemporary styling. Gold comprises Breton stripes, monochromatic prints and classic denim, while Silver completes the collection with a selection of sports-inspired casual pieces.

—  ELVI NE  ANE R K J E NDT Made for “every geeky rock ’n’ roller with a laid-back lifestyle”, Scandinavian label Anerkjendt continues to create statement pieces while pushing the boundaries of commercial fashion. Buyers can expect easy-to-wear, fashion-forward clothes with an edge. A mix of new denims and nylons are mixed with natural fabrics and playful prints, while a fusion of street elements and classic shapes with a hint of sports detailing makes the new line one to catch this season.

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Drawing inspiration from the brand’s trip to Shanghai, as well as the people met along the way, Elvine presents a series of patterns, prints and colours, influenced by the impressive skyline to the camo trees in the French Concession for s/s 15. With a colour palette of blue, grey and black, injections of interest come from shades of spicy orange.

Detailing, meanwhile, includes light layering and zip finishes.

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JUNE 2014 | PANORAMA | 38

pAnoRAmA 8-10 July 2014 Berlin expoCenter City — Following three successful seasons at Berlin’s expoCenter Airport, panorama is moving to a new, downtown location for its spring/summer 2015 edition, expanding further and unveiling a host of new developments.

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Relocating from Berlin’s expoCenter Airport to a new central venue in the heart of the city, panorama will now take place in expoCentre City, located in the city’s bustling messe Berlin.

Welcoming a raft of new and returning names in commercial and contemporary fashion, the rapid growth of Panorama meant additional space was paramount to the exhibition’s future development. With 33,200 sq m of space, the ExpoCenter City at the south entrance to the Messe Berlin provides the necessary room for expansion, as well as being in close proximity to Berlin Fashion Week, which runs on the same dateline.

The fair, meanwhile, will still continue to offer its visitors transfer shuttles from Tegal (TXL) and Schonefeld (SXF) airports, as well as shuttles to all relevant events over the three days.

With a brand new location comes a series of new developments for the show, including the launch of latest segment Now. This dedicated hall will bring together a series of flash collections, presenting men’s and womenswear, as well as footwear and accessories, all of which have a delivery time of six weeks or less.

Following its successful launch last season, Panorama will once again bring together smaller, more exclusive labels in its L’Hotel area – this season with a more modern look and feel with an expanded portfolio.

The Mall will also return, showcasing a growing number of fashion brands in their own complete environment in the form of standalone

flagship stores or shop-in-shop areas. With this, Panorama continues to react to the growing number of retail areas worldwide and the opportunity for expansion in strong growth markets, where well-developed retail structures ie multi-label shops are lacking.

In terms of new signings at the exhibition, buyers can expect to see the likes of American Vintage, Ivy Oxford, Duck and Cover, MMX and Jacques Britt, while returning favourites include Olymp, Fynch Hatton, G-Design, Timezone and Meyer.

Creating added value for both exhibitors and visitors, the trade fair will debut its first seminar programme this spring/summer 2015 edition, presenting a series of talks on trends and marketrelevant themes. Covering areas such as current

developments in the German specialised trade, the long-term development of style groups and the situation of the growth market in Russia and sustainability, the seminar programme is free to attend.

openInG HouRS Tuesday 8 July 9am – 6pm Wednesday 9 July 9am – 6pm Thursday 10 July 9am – 6pm

ReGISTRATIon Visitors can register free of charge at www.panorama-berlin.com.

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JUNE 2014 | JACKET REQUIRED | 40

JACkeT ReQuIReD It’s show time again, and there are plenty of new offerings in store at the forthcoming Jacket Required, which brings the best directional brands to uk and international buyers.

Tom Bottomley takes his pick of some of the highlights at the show, which takes place on 30-31 July at london’s old Truman Brewery.

—  STAPLE PI GE O N In 1997, Jeff Staple walked into the Triple Five Soul boutique in New york City wearing a T-shirt that he designed himself. Needless to say it impressed on the shop floor, and Staple subsequently received his first order of 12 silk-screened tees. What started as a small T-shirt line handmade by himself, who was then a student at Parsons School of Design, grew organically and began to gain visibility in the city. In 2005, when Staple was in the process of building the brand, Nike hired him to create a special sneaker to represent New york. The Staple Pigeon icon was conceived and was branded on the heels of a limited, and now most coveted, 150 pairs of the popular Dunk Pro SB – leading to much fanfare upon its release. Staple’s growing apparel range and collaborative products started to be distributed to the top retailers around the world. Inspired by street culture and design, Staple Pigeon is now pecking its way to Jacket Required for the first time.

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 LFANT NYC Started in 2004, and pronounced el-eph-ant, Lfant was inspired by two humble and unified creatures – the colossal elephant and the almighty ant.

That’s the big and the small of it. The collection is all cut and sewn in New york City, and is described as “rough luxury” by the brand, which takes pride in its appliqué process of embroidery, distressing, bold prints, hand-painted words and images – a concoction of creativity with an athletic edge. There are luxurious wools, earthy chinos, tees, fleece, waxed cotton, denim, twills, canvas and sturdy duck cloth for a new take on Americana. Lfant’s collegiate jerseys pay homage to the 40s golden era of American football. The jersey is a direct interpretation of what football apparel looked like in its infancy. From the applications and colours through to the fit, it’s all in the details. keeping it real from NyC. —

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JUNE 2014 | JACKET REQUIRED | 41

 BR I XTO L Those of you who’ve made the trip to Copenhagen for the Gallery show in the last couple of years would not have failed to spot this brand, which makes its strong outerwear pieces predominantly in the uk.

Founded in 2011 in Stockholm by owners Gustav kjellander and Emil Holmström, the company is growing organically and getting the right kind of plaudits. British influences abound, including workwear and 60s mod culture. These two main influences are also present in the s/s 15 line, even though many materials used have a sports functionality. From day one, the origin of the production together with an available price point have been very important. “The idea is to go to the manufacturers and suppliers that are the best at the type of product they produce,” says kjellander. For the s/s 15 range there are fabrics from the Swedish Tech weaver FOV and Italy’s Pontex. key pieces include a long, light wool coat with raw edges, a long bomber in reflective canvas and a hooded sports jacket in sanded tech-twill.

Wholesale prices for spring range from £145 to £270, though most sit around the £180 mark. Interestingly, 35 per cent of Brixtol’s online sales are from uk customers, hence this is a big focus market for the brand for the coming seasons.

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 BO RO U GH 33 Founded in London earlier this year by Mukesh Desai, who many will know as the sales manager at Pepe Jeans and also the man behind labels such as Etienne Ozeki and Blue Guru, Borough 33 is another Jacket Required virgin. But not for long! Desai describes the brand as British “Avantstreet” menswear. “We celebrate contemporary menswear design through the inspiration of London’s 33 boroughs,” he says. key pieces include marble digital printed sports shirts, oversized denim shirts, a digital dot printed bomber jacket and skinny denims.

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 KAIBOSH kaibosh is a new eyewear brand out of Bergen, Norway, offering sunglasses and prescription eyewear. The concept presents hand-crafted frames with a high design factor at an affordable price. Flo, the company behind the brand, has more than 50 years’ heritage in optics. kaibosh is inspired by conversations with eyewear users around the world who share a common vision (no pun intended) that eyewear should be both affordable and fun. Flo has created some of the most innovative and trend-setting fashion eyewear in the world, designing and producing for top Scandinavian fashion houses and selling eyewear in the best optical stores worldwide. So it knows a thing or two about sharp vision, and even sharper eyewear. The uk RRP is £85 – a lot of style and precision for not too much dosh. Bestselling styles are Chips n Salsa and Student union for Menswear. It seems they like it quirky.

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 E TO NI C Old-school basketball shoe company Etonic is relaunching with a re-alliance with former NBA champion Hakeem Olajuwon that stretches back to the early 80s, when Olajuwon wore Etonic sneakers as a rookie player. Back with the slam dunkin’ finest, the brand has also got designer D’Wayne Edwards on board to develop the collection. Edwards was one of the youngest design directors in Nike history, contributing to the growth of Jordan brand from a $300m business to more than $1bn in nine years. Olajuwon led the Houston Rockets to back-to-back NBA championships and was a member of the uS Olympic gold medal winning team. He ended his career as the league’s all-time leader in blocks with 3,830, and was inducted into the Basketball Hall of Fame. So it is truly a match made in heaven and, for all those sneaker-heads out there, it’s going to cause quite a stir. Set to be stocked in Foot Patrol, Size? Hanon, Well Gosh and Oi Polloi, Jacket Required will no doubt see a few more indies shooting some hoops and writing some orders.

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Wholesale enquiries: Dave Snowdon Tel: 07813212416 Email: snowdon.brands@btinternet.com Stockists - collection available at: www.charlesclinkard.co.uk

www.paradigmafootwear.com

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JUNE 2014 | EXHIBITION CALENDAR | 44

exHIBITIon CAlenDAR The dates, the locations, the brands – your indispensable guide to the spring/summer 2015 shows.

Sponsored by:

lonDon ColleCTIonS: men 15-17 June 2014 The Hospital Club, Covent Garden 020 7759 1999 www.londoncollections.co.uk With a brand new location added to its list of venues – including The Hospital Club and The Old Sorting Office, the British Fashion Council will open the doors of Bloomsbury’s Victoria House this season. kicking off the domestic – as well as international – show calendar, the event will bring together a host of new names to its schedule once again, including Moschino and Sankuanz Presented by GQ China. MWB will be hosting a Designer Showroom drinks reception in conjunction with London Collections: Men on 16 June 2014 at 5pm in Victoria House.

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pITTI uomo 17-20 June 2014 Fortezza Da Basso Florence 0039 (0)5509491861 www.pittimmagine.com Pitti uomo, the key international trade event showcasing men’s tailoring, apparel, footwear and accessories, will return for s/s 15 with an even stronger focus on internationality – confirmed by foreign participation as nearly 40 per cent of exhibitors will be from over 30 countries. The theme of this coming season, meanwhile, is Ping Pitti Pong, which focuses on the almost-Zen aspect of sports, with installations and interactive concepts around the Fortezza Da Basso. In terms of the premium exhibition’s guest designer, Z Zenga will premiere its new collection that “merges the concepts of formality and sportification.”

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CAPSULE PARIS 27-29 June 2014 Cité de la Mode, 34 Quai d’Austerlitz, 75013 Paris 0012 (0)122069310 www.capsuleshow.com MAN PARIS 27-29 June 25 rue Yves Toudic Paris 10 0033 (0)143672752 www.man-shows.com TRANOI HOMME 29 June – 1 July 2014 Palais de la Bourse, 72002 Paris 0033 (0)153018490 www.tranoi.com WHO’S NEXT PRET-A-PORTER PARIS 4-7 July 2014 Parc Des Expositions, Porte De Versailles, Paris 0033 (0)1410137483 www.whosnext.com

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JUNE 2014 | EXHIBITION CALENDAR | 45

BReAD & BuTTeR CAPSULE BERLIN 8-9 July 2014 Postbahnhof, Straße der Pariser Kommune 8, 10243 Berlin 0012 (0)112068310 www.capsuleshow.com SEEK 8-10 July 2014 Luckenwalder Str 3 10963 Berlin 0049 (0) 3062908511 www.seekexhibitions.com

8-10 July 2014 Airport Berlin-Tempelhof 0049 (0)302000370 www.breadandbutter.com With the World Cup taking place this summer, Bread & Butter looks to all things Brazilian for the theme of the s/s 15 edition – aptly named Carnival do Brasil. Expect the usual opening party and events taking place over the three-day show, with the planned consumer two-day extension scrapped earlier this year due to exhibitor feedback. Returning favourites include Elvine, Aigle, Ben Sherman, Chunk Clothing, 47 Brand, Barbour and Antony Morato.

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WHITE LABEL 8-10 July 2014 U3-Behnhof, Potsdamer Platz Blending, Berlin 0049 (0)30240876114 www.whitelabelfair.com MODEFABRIEK 13-14 July 2014 RAI, Europaplein 8, 1078 GZ Amsterdam 0031 (0)204421960 www.modefabriek.nl MAGIC NEW YORK 20-22 July 2014 Pier 94, 55th Street, 12 Avenue, New york 0012 187407092 www.magiconline.com CAPSULE NEW YORK 21-22 July 2014 Basketball City 299 South St (at Montgomery St), New York 0012 (0)112068310 www.capsuleshow.com MAN NEW YORK 21-23 July 2014 775 Washington Street, New York 10014 0033 143665703 www.man-shows.com

pAnoRAmA 8-10 July 2014 expoCenter City Jaffeéstrasse 14055 Berlin 0049 (0)30208891340 www.panorama-berlin.com With a brand new central location, Panorama Berlin is set for its biggest show to date. New for this season is the launch of its flash order collections area. Dedicated to Hall 7A, it will cover men’s and womenswear, footwear and accessories, housing brands with a six-week lead time or less.

The s/s 15 edition will also see the launch of Panorama Berlin’s seminar programme – presenting a series of talks and discussions on current and market relevant themes. Talks, all of which are free of charge, will include topics such as developments in the German specialised trade and the growth market in Russia.

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pRemIum 8-10 July 2014 Station-Berlin luckenwalder Strasse 4-6 10963 Berlin 0049 (0)30208891330 www.premiumexhibitions.com kicking off Berlin Fashion Week, men’s and womenswear show Premium returns for s/s 15 with a raft of returning and new names, including AG Adriano Goldschmied, G Lab, Superga, Barbour, Esemple and Samsoe & Samsoe. Split into dedicated segments, buyers can expect to see areas such as Avantgarde, Business, Casual, Heritage, Rock, Sophisticated, Sporty and Playful spanning six halls and five outside spaces including dedicated menswear show Seek. For a/w 15, Premium will bring its dateline forward to allow for brands to move onto the French market after Berlin.

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JUNE 2014 | EXHIBITION CALENDAR | 46

CIFF 3-6 August 2014 Bella Center Copenhagen 0045 (0)32472213 www.ciff.dk Each season, Ciff brings together a growing number of men’s, women’s and childrenswear names under one roof. Spanning 40,000 sq m, the exhibition is the largest fashion fair in Northern Europe. A number of brands are set to make their Ciff debut at the s/s 15 edition, such as Epilogue, Rosemunde, Whiite, kjær københavn, BeckSøndergaard, RebekkaRebekka, Style Provider and Hunky Dory, while those returning to the show include Munthe, Second Female, Han kjøbenhavn, Barbour, Just Female, Black Lilly, Style Butler, Maria Zabel, The Floor and PBO. —

JACkeT ReQuIReD 30-31 July 2014 The old Truman Brewery, london info@jacket-required.com www.jacket-required.com Following a successful debut season at new venue The Old Truman Brewery in East London, Jacket Required returns with its biggest and most comprehensive line-up to date. With an additional 25 brands, the show will new welcome nearly 175 labels through its doors, all the while retaining its original ethos of showcasing handpicked niche and innovative menswear apparel, footwear and accessory labels. New names set to show at the July edition include outerwear label Hancock, eyewear brand kaibosh and American streetwear specialist Staple Design.

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THe HuB 27-28 August 2014 Asia world expo, Hong kong www.thehub.hk Asia’s premium brand and designer fashion trade event, The HuB, enters the s/s 15 buying season with a brand new downtown location for its third edition. Set in Lai Chi kok’s D2 Place, the venue is a striking industrial building in the centre of the traditional garment district of Hong kong, surrounded by offices of many of the event’s target visitors, as well as a number of existing showrooms. Areas at The HuB include Contemporary, Heritage, Indigo, Street and The Greenhouse, the latter of which acts an incubator initiative for emerging design talent from across the globe.

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INDX MENSWEAR SHOW 30-31 July 2014 Cranmore Park, Exhibition Centre, Solihull 0121 683 1434 www.indxshow.co.uk GDS & GLOBAL SHOES 30 July – 1 August 2014 Messe Dusseldorf, Germany 0049 (0)21145607606 www.gds-online.com CPH VISION 2-6 August 2014 Øksnehallen, Halmtorvet, 1700 Copenhagen 0045 39648586 www.cphvision.dk MARGIN 4-5 August 2014 Hilton London Olympia, London www.margin.tv GALLERY INTERNATIONAL FASHION FAIR 6-8 August 2014 Forum Copenhagen Julius Thomsens Plads 1 DK-1925 Frederiksberg C, Copenhagen 0033 120930 www.gallery.dk IMC 17-18 August 2014 Whittlebury Northamptonshire 01473 256061 www.imcmenswear.co.uk MAGIC 18-20 August 2014 Las Vegas & Mandalay Bay Convention Centres, Nevada, USA 0018 77554834 www.magiconline.com

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JUNE 2014 | EXHIBITION CALENDAR | 47

moDA GenT PROJECT LAS VEGAS 18-20 August 2014 Las Vegas & Mandalay Bay Convention Centres, Nevada, USA 0012 187407092 www.magiconline.com/ project-las-vegas THEMICAM 31 August – 3 September 2014 Fieramilano, Milan 0039 02438291 www.micamonline.com

20-12 August 2014 neC Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk Fresh for the August edition, Moda is launching a new area dedicated to e-commerce and retail technologies. The newly developed E-Zone will be a showcase space for the latest products and services available to the industry. Visitors will have the opportunity to attend a series of free seminars to learn more about the services, as well as the chance to interact with products and meet the teams behind them. Moda Gent, meanwhile, will benefit from a newly refreshed layout, with feature areas creating new focal points within the show.

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CPM 3-6 September 2014 Expocentre Fairgroup, Moscow 0049 (0)2114396312 www.cpm-moscow.com LONDON GARMENTS EXPO 7-8 September 2014 Business Design Centre, Islington London 020 8888 0090 www.londongarmentsexpo.com LONDONEDGE 7-9 September 2014 Business Design Centre, Upper Street, Islington London 0116 289 8249 www.londonedge.com

moDA FooTweAR 20-12 August 2014 neC Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk Moda Footwear will see a brand new stand build for s/s 15, alongside its women’s and menswear counterparts. Continuing its reign as the leading and biggest footwear show in the uk, the event will play host to nearly 400 brands this season.

Portuguese footwear label Campobello will return to the halls of the NEC, following its successful debut in February this year, while other signings include Fly London, Gola, Bamboo A and Chatham Marine. Once again there will also be a dedicated footwear catwalk show running in Hall 20 throughout the three-day event.

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SeleCT 20-12 August 2014 neC Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk Returning to its original ethos of handpicked labels in contemporary and directional menswear for the s/s 15 edition of Moda, Select will see an edited offer of menswear, footwear and accessories. Names so far include shirt label 1 Like No Other, accessory specialist knightsbridge Neckwear and underwear and activewear brand Bjorn Borg. Footwear names, meanwhile, include Justin Reece and returning favourite Superga. A daily catwalk will also take place in Select, showcasing the latest trends in contemporary fashion, tailoring and footwear.

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www.mwb-online.co.uk

JUNE 2014 | DENIM & STREET | CONTENTS | 49

D E N I M

&

S T R E E T

known SuSPecT This season sees streetwear label Known collaborate with grime rap artist D Double E to create a limitededition capsule collection. Featuring a series of tees and sweats, the range draws inspiration from D Double E’s Jamaican roots, blending the brand’s signature monochrome palette with flashes of green, red and yellow.

The lookbook, shot in South London’s Brixton, features the rapper in a series of local streets, barber shops and record stores. Buyers can expect bold typography and heavy illustration.

This isn’t the first collaboration for Known, as the streetwear label’s past partnerships have included hip-hop artist MF Doom and rapper Plan B’s charity Each One Teach One. The D Double E collection went on sale at the start of this month, and is available through selected stockists and knownworldwide.com.

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50

Product news

52

in-season stock

Rounding up the key stories this month Playground culture

54

From the showroom floor MWB speaks to four of the UK’s key agencies

www.mwb-online.co.uk

JUNE 2014 | DENIM & STREET | PRODUCT | 50

raDar

ProDucT newS

Spotlighting style.

inside menswear.

HI DE AND SE E K Stemming from the stable of iconic brand Fruit of the Loom, Seek No Further launches into the UK market for s/s 14.

A more sophisticated and trend-led collection than its sister label, the brand offers a series of contemporary wardrobe additions designed by Dorothée Loermann – formerly of Surface to Air. With a focus on detail from the inside out, each piece has an almost structural quality thanks to the use of high-tech fabrics that play with the traditional aesthetic of cotton sweatshirting, each with a distinctive surface and texture.

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VILLAIN ESTABLISHED: 2005 — HISTORY: Villain is the brainchild of Leni Braun who, having previously worked in the fashion industry for over 10 years, made the decision to launch her own label, drawing inspiration from the vibrancy and variety of East London.

— SIGNATURE STYLE: Minimal branding, premium construction and highquality fabrics. Stand-out pieces include heavy knits, outerwear and signature-print tees. it is clear to see where young british label Villain takes its inspiration from, as east london is mixed with designer leni braun’s Danish roots to create a blend of eclectic prints and minimalist styling.

“We always look to the streets of East London,” says designer and founder Leni Braun. “These roots provide a style base that retains a global appeal, but there’s always a Scandinavian undertone that feeds through our creative pursuits.”

Stocked in the likes of Harvey Nichols and Sparks, the brand is looking to increase its European presence following market demand, with plans to open a standalone still in the pipeline.

Targeting the 20-30 something customer, the brand describes the Villain customer as a “fashion-conscious man who appreciates comfortable, well-tailored pieces that are on trend but unique in design.”

In terms of next season, the collection is set to be clean and casual with a bold multi-coloured palette including monochromatic flashes. www.villain.uk.com

HASHTAG T R E NDI NG Currently stocked on Asos Marketplace, T-shirt brand Hashtag Collective is looking to extend its presence further and launch into selected independent retailers across the UK this season.

Established in 2012 by husband-and-wife design duo Paul and Lorraine White, the label’s core focus is on graphic print tees for the menswear market, made from bamboo and cotton and packaged in a bespoke Hashtag Collective presentation box.

Going forward, the brand is currently working on its a/w 14 collection, which will see an expansion into knitwear including cashmere and lambswool.

Hashtag Collective will also stage a pop-up experience, as well as an official launch party, later this year.

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www.mwb-online.co.uk

JUNE 2014 | DENIM & STREET | PRODUCT | 51

ON TREND Seasonal extras: watches

1

2

3

4

PU K K A U P Streetwear label Your Own has joined forces with Ibiza boat party brand Pukka Up to create a capsule collection for summer.

The new range – YO Going Global – features a selection of both men’s and women’s casualwear, spanning shorts, tees, vests and beachwear. Key pieces in the menswear collection include the Easy Vest, which is an oversized, loose-fit and scooped-neck style, featuring the original Your Own and Pukka Up branding; and the AOP, which is a cotton crew-neck tee with an all-over Your Own and Pukka Up repeat branding and rolled sleeves.

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5

1: DIESEL £74 020 7520 7000 2: ICE WATCH £40 uk.ice-watch.com 3: NIXON price on request 0808 234 7003 4: HYPE X LUSARDI LONDON RRP £29.99 store.justhype.co.uk 5: QUIKSILVER price on request 020 7392 4020

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

branD To waTch

MONARCH MILWAUKEE with over a century’s worth of knowledge and experience, american outerwear label monarch milwaukee offers quality product, counting the uS air Force and uS government as fans.

A century of history includes moments such as former test pilot Chuck Yeager wearing a Monarch Milwaukee jacket as he broke the sound barrier in 1947, with said jacket now displayed at the Air and Space Museum in Washington DC. Now stocked in 10 key accounts across Europe, the brand is looking to play on its heritage and launch into the UK this coming season. With an average wholesale price of £650, the label is certainly not for the average market, although details such as vegetable buffalo hide add to the premium price tag.

The launch collection for the UK will see a range of archived pieces from Monarch’s extensive back catalogue while experimenting with new details and finishes. www.monarch-milwaukee.com

ESTABLISHED: 1898 — HISTORY: Founded by Paul Asch, Monarch Milwaukee was originally started to develop and create heavy outdoor and leather jackets, supplying the likes of the US government and US Air Force.

— SIGNATURE STYLE: American military jackets, leather flight jackets, sheeping bomber jackets, nylon flight jackets, wool peacoats and lumberjack jackets.

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www.mwb-online.co.uk

JUNE 2014 | DENIM & STREET | PRODUCT | 52

MI PAC £8.20 020 7749 5149

NATIVE YOUTH £7.75 020 7739 7620

FLOSSY £8.50 020 77361 102

GARCIA PRICE ON REQUEST 020 3432 6387

PlayGrounD culTure more peacock than playground, a primary colour palette of red, blue, yellow and green filters through to the young fashion sector for s/s 14.

Style one piece at a time to avoid lego-block outfit building.

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LUKE £33 01869 366580

WEEKEND OFFENDER £50 01332 342068

VOLCOM £24 0845 486 5266

DUCK AND COVER £12 020 8453 1668 CLAE PRICE ON REQUEST 01726 861742

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

D555 £5.99 0115 977 0009

www.gucinari.co.uk

DEDICATED TO STYLE

www.mwb-online.co.uk

JUNE 2014 | DENIM & STREET | AGENCY PROFILES | 54

From The Showroom Floor The role of the agent, brand and buyer has changed considerably over the years, from forging stronger customer relationships to handling much more than selling the product. mwb’s Victoria Jackson speaks to four of the uk’s newest agencies to see what challenges they’ve faced since launching.

— branD maiSon

inDex lonDon

lynne Crook and Daniele sismondi, co-founders established: 2013 location: london W12 Brand portfolio: fendi (scarves, knits and ties), Just Cavalli (underwear, loungewear and beachwear), aglini, papillon, Jo Ghost, paolo pecora, Borsalino, alfa omega, le Voliere, Cofrad mannequins

stefano Cardoni, co-founder established: 2014 location: london W1 Brand portfolio: esemplare, Baracuta, salvatore piccolo, spiewak, Hancock, Griffin, efm by Donran, Duncan

Victoria Jackson: what made you decide to launch brand maison?

Lynne Crook: It was based on our shared drive for a new challenge and offering a unique business experience. We both had strong relationships within the fashion industry and felt that we could offer a unique perspective.

I have over 16 years’ extensive retail and buying experience, starting my career at Harrods before being headhunted as buying manager for Selfridges eight years ago. Daniele, meanwhile, has over 14 years’ experience in wholesale, working for the likes of Valentino, Armani and Calvin Klein at GFT, and Burberry, Kenzo and Chloe kids at CWF. Since 2010, he has run Brand Stable, which is the leading childrenswear agency in the UK. VJ: how has your first year since launching gone?

Daniele Sismondi: We’re only four months into launching, and have learnt so much about our clients, their business strategies and how we can improve ours. It takes time to build business relationships, and it’s important that we listen and take on board how, and if, our product mix is right. Of course, our biggest critics are ourselves – we always want to do more for the customer.

However, we’re a solution-based company so, whatever the challenge, we deal with it.

VJ: how has your relationship with buyers changed?

LC: As an ex-buyer working in wholesale, I understand the demands of the role, so can support and advise regarding commercial decision, while Daniele has built trust with buyers and helps visualise ranges and key looks for their business. I think the secret is trust and respect, but if we told you all our secrets we wouldn’t be the unique agency we are.

VJ: Going forward, what do you think is going to be the biggest challenge you’re going to face?

DS: The biggest challenge we’ve had to face so far is launching the business – we’re aware that like all new businesses you need to be bold in your thinking and strategy; all the while being approachable and open to new ideas. We will continue to improve our service focus from suppliers and what we offer our clients. With our strong strategic vision and ability in introducing key collections to the UK, we are excited about the road ahead.

Victoria Jackson: when was index london launched?

Stefano Cardoni: We launched it for the a/w 14 buying season following the merger between Backstage fashion agency and The Stone Agency. It came about after we hosted The Stone Agency in the Backstage showroom for one season. We realised that our agencies were very complementary and much stronger as a united front rather than two separate entities. Index London was born with a mission to concentrate on quality menswear. Our location on East Castle Street, in the heart of the West End, has proven a great asset, as all buyers know the area and already visit other agencies and brands nearby.

VJ: what challenges have you faced since the merger?

SC: Not many, to be honest. However, getting buyers into the showroom is always a challenge. This coming s/s 15 selling season is looking better, as the marketing work carried out last season is now bearing great results and has drawn attention to what we do as an agency.

VJ: what would you say is your secret to a successful relationship with buyers?

SC: Professionalism, flexibility, market awareness and know-how. Buyers are often overworked and overwhelmed with high numbers of labels approaching them. It is vital for us to be believable by having the right product and brand mix. We are doing just that and it’s working.

VJ: what do you think will be your biggest challenge moving forward into the new season?

SC: We create our own challenges, and we’re always looking for the next big thing without compromising our own brand kudos. It’s easy to give in to a commercial label and forget what you stand for as an operator. Temptation to go mainstream is always lurking, but we keep each grounded and focused on the long-term plan.

www.mwB-onlIne.Co.uk

JUNE 2014 | DENIM & STREET | AGENCY PROFILES | 55

non AGenCy

RollInG people

Ryan Haynes, founder and managing director Established: 2013 Location: London E2 Brand portfolio: Uniforms for the Dedicated, The Hill-side, Armor Lux, Tourne De Transmission, Haerfest

Ben Shelton, founder and managing director Established: 2011 Location: London E2 Brand portfolio: Avelon, Hudson jeans, Ravn, Soulland, Christian Lacroix, Still-Good, Thom Krom

Victoria Jackson: why did you decide to establish your own agency?

Ryan Haynes: Before I launched Non Agency I was working at Macandi Showrooms, managing its men’s multi-brands side. When it decided to focus on women’s multi-brands, I realised I wanted to carry on working with a number of the labels I had been working with for a few years. We had built sales up to a good level and I didn’t want to go and work for someone else and let all that go, so I decided this was the perfect time to start my own agency. It created the foundation to approach other brands I admired and explore different opportunities, creating my own offer.

Victoria Jackson: why did you make the decision to break out on your own and launch Rolling people?

Ben Shelton: I had always wanted to try and start something myself – both my father and grandfather had started their own businesses so I always assumed one day I’d do the same. I was doing uk sales for Acne Studios prior to this and I felt I’d learned a lot from the people I’d been working with there.

It was my time to gamble.

VJ: Despite being in its infancy, have you come across any challenges since launching the agency?

RH: It’s still pretty young so I haven’t gone through too many significant challenges just yet, plus I was really careful when putting the brand mix together. I put a lot of time and effort into curating a brand mix I believed in and felt had real scope for growth. I don’t want any of the labels to be flashin-the-pan successes. I’d like each of them to be around for a long time through organic and sustainable growth, so I don’t want to have an agency where the mix is hugely different from one season to the next. Saying that, I’m always excited by new product, so would always like to have something new every season.

VJ: How do you maintain a successful relationship with buyers?

RH: I was fortunate to be at a great agency before doing this, so had the chance to develop my relationships with a lot of buyers. I’ve also always made sure to go see as many buyers personally in-store or at their offices when not selling. I think this is really important to getting an insight into a store, its location and the environment – factors that will influence a buyer’s decision. The secret is always to be open and honest. If there’s a problem or issue, get it out there and deal with it rather than hide away, hoping it sorts itself out. Also be proactive in-season and open to making changes and adjustments. It’s still a tough market at the moment, so it has to be a partnership between store and brand. It’s up to both of us to make it a success once the product is in-store – you can’t think the job is done when the order book closes.

VJ: what are the plans for the future of non Agency?

RH: At the moment I’m looking at bringing somebody else on board, as there are lots of projects I’d like to be working on that I just can’t do without taking time away from what I already have. This would mean letting go of some things and allowing somebody else to be involved. I think it will be difficult initially, but beneficial to the growth of the agency in the long-run.

VJ: Do you think your location in Shoreditch makes a difference to your success?

BS: It does to an extent. We want to make it as easy as possible for buyers to come to us, so it makes sense to be where other showrooms are. When you’re launching new brands I think it’s very important but, if you’re selling a label that’s in demand, you have more scope on location. No one ever complained about having to go to Paris to buy Acne.

VJ: How has the agency changed since you opened?

BS: When we sold our first season – a/w 12 – I rented Sam Taylor Wood’s studio for four weeks and did everything myself. I opened the door, made the tea, unpacked boxes, steamed the collections – absolutely everything.

Giulio, from the store Giulio in Cambridge, used to call me The Lone Wolf.

Now we have five employees as well as interns, so managing people instead of door bells and tea pots is now the norm. The biggest change was when my wife joined in June 2012. With over eight years’ experience gained at Ralph Lauren and Calvin klein, Michelle brought in more industry experience than the company could have afforded to employ in any other person. We now co-own and run the company together.

VJ: what challenges have you faced over the past three years?

BS: As boring as it sounds, cash flow. When you start an agency with brands that have no customers, you don’t get paid for a year. Although we knew this when we first started and planned accordingly, it was still painful.

Also, when I was an employee at Acne, all I had to do was sell. Now I do all the tasks that are involved with running a company, including financial planning, recruiting, training and running a team, liaising with each brand and developing a strategic distribution plan, targeting new brands and dealing with landlords. It was all new to me, and I have developed a deeper respect for independent store owners who do the same, as well as the buying.

VJ: what’s your secret to a successful agent and buyer relationship?

BS: Honesty and in-season support. If I sell a collection to a store, I try to help them set it out. I think the days of seeing buyers just for selling appointments are long gone, and we like to take some responsibility for the sell-through of the labels we represent.

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www.mwb-online.co.uk

JUNE 2014 | PEOPLE | 56

collecTiVe The people, the places, the products.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK DaS neue Schwarz berlin

SIMON SAYS condomania. it’s a new word i’ve invented. and no it’s nothing to do with prophylactics. i can’t think of a better word to describe the construction boom that is currently affecting Toronto.

I was there last week to visit my store. It was long overdue; I hadn’t been for three years. In that time the city has been invaded by cranes, hoardings and frothily named developments. Needless to say, these “executive-style” apartments are being snapped up off-plan, frequently

by China or Singapore based investors.

Sound familiar? Yes, it all smacks of a London-style property boom.

The key differences are that in Toronto no-one of note lives in a “flat”; they’re all “condos” or “lofts”. Occasionally apartments. Don’t ask. I have no idea which is which, and that’s after spending five days there.

Another common thread is the Open House. As here, in a booming property market, why bother to make individual appointments when you can herd all the prospective buyers through in one morning? I was roped into such a viewing by my friend, and there was much hostile eye contact with the other would-be purchasers. Great fun.

Down on Queen Street West, my store is trading well. We had a great customer shopping evening, with a very good four-piece band, who even invented a Simon Carter jingle. Maybe because the prices are higher in Toronto, or maybe because we have smaller distribution than here, there’s an almost fanatical following to the brand. It’s seen as cool luxury and it is always rewarding to meet the customers. I love their enthusiasm.

It’s not all rosy, though. There’s been a churn of retailers since I was last in Toronto. In winter especially, the mall exercises a big draw. Having said that, intriguingly, the mall owners are now trying to attract smaller niche retailers, as customers tell them they’re tired of the big players. A glimmer of hope.

The point is that in our globally connected world, we all face the same issues. Concerns of an over-heated property market, foreign buyers hoarding flats – sorry, condos, and the dominance of the shopping centre.

But one thing remains the same – enthusiasm for different, well-made product from brands with a clear identity. I can’t wait to go back.

Simon carter is the ceo of the eponymous brand and retail stores.

—

During show season berlin will play host to a number of exhibitions throughout the city but, for something a bit different, head to the designer vintage paradise Dan neue Schwarz.

— Located in Berlin’s buzzing fashion district, Mitte, Dan Neue Schwarz revolves around the concept of recycling and consists of an eclectic mix of special pieces ranging from high-end fashion to special collectors’ items. Stocking designs from Prada and Acne to Hysteric Glamour and The Bathing Ape, the handpicked collection is treated with care. Former DJ and club host Tanya Bednar established the shop, which began life as a pop-up and online store, in 2009. It has since developed into a permanent high-fashion boutique, boasting an impressive clientele including Björk and Helena Christensen.

— Plan b

John SharP Owner of Branded Stocks, Ma.strum and Boneville

rather than wishfully thinking of a career in football, music or even film, i do believe i’d stick to something wholly more realistic.

— Throughout the course of building Branded Stocks and later Ma.strum and Boneville, I’ve found the fluid expression of an idea or concept is key to success.

This appreciation of good communication was very much born from my younger days working alongside my father and uncle, together with tending all manner of market stalls – a grand exercise in building the confidence to seal the deal, however big or small. It’s the thrill of the deal, rapid exchange and bartering that excites me. In short, if not in fashion, I’d surely be selling something, trading goods and making sure I was in a face-to-face business.

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www.mwb-online.co.uk

JUNE 2014 | PEOPLE | 57

TOP TWEETS

cloSeT conFiDenTial anDy kniGhT, owner, known (www.knownworlDwiDe.com), anD owner oF The Forum STreeTwear STore in SwinDon i am one of the world’s biggest air max 1 collectors. i own 87 pairs of rare am1s. I will never own any more or any less in respect to the year of 1987; the year that marked the release of the Air Max 1. I care about quality and rarity, which is clearly portrayed through the following six essential items to my wardrobe. Firstly, my Nas x Stüssy T-shirt – one of the rarest tees I have. Apart from it being from the streetwear “heavyweights” Stüssy, I love it because it’s in collaboration with Nas, one of my favourite hip-hop artists. Next up to bat is my Supreme ripstop camo shirt. You can’t go wrong with a camo shirt, and this is one of the best I’ve seen. I always revert back to it when needed for certain occasions. Then there’s my Known One Love tee – one of the best collaborations that Known has done, working with fellow sneaker-heads in the UK to celebrate the iconic AM 87, the year the first Air Max 1 was released. The tee was available for a limited time only and sold out on pre-order alone. It celebrated the partnership of brands and artists who I have had the pleasure to know and work with.

— The nike miniswoosh 1999 is simplicity at its best. A simple colourway on my favourite sneaker silhouette. This was the first time the Miniswoosh was used on the AM1, and it’s rarely seen in this mint condition. It was released in 1999, and is hands down one of my favourite pieces in my wardrobe. Then there’s my Nike Destroyer jacket – an absolutely timeless piece. Black on black is always a winner.

It’s from the NSW collection and was purchased from Nike Town in London a few years back. Last up are more sneakers – my Nike x Patta x Parra Burgundy Pattas.

It’s a sneaker that was released to celebrate Patta’s fifth anniversary, and executed with fellow Amsterdam heavyweight Parra. In my eyes, they’re the most beautiful AM1s released. I was lucky enough to get them signed at Sneakerness by the AM1 designer Tinker Hatfield. A dream come true.

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Tim @aWatsonMenswear Flights to @e_PITTI booked. Let’s hope the sun is shining in Florence :) shortlist Magazine @shortlist We’re not sure what @Nike’s Lizard Camo is supposed to blend in with, but we still love them fox umbrellas @foxumbrellas We like rain (Monday to Friday), the weekends, however, are allowed to be sunny! oxblood and Wolf @oxbloodandWolf Nearing the end of #MadMen and I can’t imagine life without it! @MadMen_AMC #tv #dondraper esquire Magazine @esquireuK Netflix have picked their man to play Daredevil. Thankfully, it’s not Ben Affleck sunday Times style @ThesTstyle Apparently... *leans over fence*... there IS a way to order next season’s catwalk and wear it "within weeks" asos Menswear @asos_Menswear If you follow only one rule, make it this: only ever shop on days with an 'A' in them David Watts @David_M_Watts People inspire you or they drain you, pick them wisely shuffle @weareshuffle It’s okay, #menswear is blitzing #womenswear at the moment anyway. Can’t blame women for wanting to steal good garb

SOCIETY The ParTieS anD eVenTS From in anD arounD The menSwear inDuSTry.

 DAME MARGARET BARBOUR WAS HONOURED WITH THE NATWEST UKFT OUTSTANDING ACHIEVEMENT AWARD FOR HER EXCEPTIONAL AND LONG-STANDING CONTRIBUTION TO THE FASHION INDUSTRY AT LAST MONTH’S UKFT AWARDS 2014, HOSTED BY TV PRESENTER SUSANNA REID.

 MUSICIAN JOHN NEWMAN AT THE OPENING OF LACOSTE’S LATEST CONCEPT STORE ON LONDON’S REGENT STREET. GUESTS ALSO INCLUDED ACTRESS GEMMA CHAN, MODEL RICKY HALL AND SINGER SIOBHAN DONAGHY.

 STREETWEAR LABEL SURF LIQUOR HOSTED A POP-UP SHOP AND SKATE SPACE AT THE DRAY WALK GALLERY ON LONDON’S BRICK LANE, LAST MONTH – AN EVENT THAT SAW A SKATE SPACE FROM KING RAMPS, COMPLIMENTARY BEER AND HOT DOGS FROM BELLEVILLE BREWING CO, AS WELL AS LIVE MUSIC FROM LONDON PUNK BAND THE VOODOO BINMEN.

www.mwb-online.co.uk

JUNE 2014 | 59

The boTTomley line

© Paul Mowatt

mwb deputy editor Tom bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

uk reTailerS ProVinG a SmaSh oVerSeaS Recent news from the British Retail Consortium (BRC) has found that the search for UK retailers online from overseas customers is increasing at a buoyant rate. Mark Haviland, managing director of Rakuten Marketing Europe, one of the leading internet service companies whose clients include Burberry, Topshop and House of Fraser, says, “The fact that the UK is the world’s second largest exporter through online commerce is testament to our world-renowned brands.” With smartphones and tablets increasingly becoming the tools for shopping on the go, having a slice of new markets is achievable like never before.

Womenswear is proving a particular strength for British brands and retailers selling to customers abroad. A 77 per cent increase in searches from international customers seeking out UK department stores on their smartphones, for example, demonstrates how taking advantage of new technology to reach an increasingly diverse audience can pay off.

But Haviland says it’s crucial that brands and retailers target international customers with relative content and, by showcasing themselves on relevant “local publisher sites”, trust can be built as well as global awareness. Statistics from the BRC and Google reflect the world appeal of British fashion brands, and all retailers have the opportunity to reach new markets – if they are taking online sales as a serious business. But, as one retailer stressed recently, if it’s something that’s being done just for the sake of it, it’s best to forget it. As The Small Faces once sang, it’s “all or nothing.” So if you want to be a real face on the net, you best invest.

roberTo hiTS The beach Renowned Italian fashion designer Roberto Cavalli, 73, was recently papped on a Miami beach with his 20-something girlfriend, in matching leopard-print swimwear. You can only really say, “Go on Roberto my son!” Lina Nilson, who Cavalli has been dating since 2008, when he split up with his former wife, would obviously have been

 THE LAUNCH OF GTO ACCESSORIES

 ROBERTO CAVALLI AND GIRLFRIEND LINA NILSON

mistaken for his daughter. Hang on a minute, make that his granddaughter! But after they frolicked in the sea, her in a Just Cavalli rainbow leopard bikini (surely a gift), she liberally applied extra sun cream to the mega-tanned fashion legend in dark blue leopard trunks. Cavalli built his name on his flamboyant and eye-catching designs, and he’s still clearly not one to shirk. The beach shots prove there’s life in the old dog yet. Though it does bring back memories of Mrs Merton’s question to “the lovely” Debbie McGee, “So, what first attracted you to the millionaire Paul Daniels?”

make mine a Ferrari, well cuFFlinkS anyway Family run business GTO Engineering, which specialises in the restoration and refurbishing of vintage Ferraris at its workshop in Twyford, now has a range of accessories, under the name of GTO London, made from original steel and leather from vintage Ferraris. There are metal cufflinks and a leather accessories range featuring card holders, hip flasks, iPad cases and cigar holders.

They are all designed with elements of the classic vintage Ferrari interiors taken into consideration.

It’s all a bit novelty, but definitely with a luxury angle. And you just know there’s a market for this type of product. After all, if you can’t afford the

real thing, flashing a tasty cufflink with a story behind it, as opposed to sporting a red cap with a badge on it, is ever so slightly more considered.

The market for Christmas presents for men who can but dream is definitely there.

carnaby GoeS worlD cuP crazy London’s Carnaby Street and surrounding retailers and brands are seriously getting in the mood for the soon-to-start World Cup in Brazil.

Matches are to be screened, limited-edition products are available and special menus aim to celebrate the greatest show on earth in style.

Puma’s Tricks football boots have just landed in their only standalone UK store on Carnaby Street.

To celebrate, the shop has been covered half in bright pink paint and the other in electric blue paint to match the boots. Ben Sherman, Pretty Green, Laurel Wreath by Fred Perry and Johnny Cupcakes have all released football-inspired T-shirts. And Size? is stocking World Cup inspired products including retro-style track tops, replica football shorts from Adidas Originals and an exclusive selection of Starter socks. Not to forget Brazilian footwear brand Havaianas, which has created a collection of flip-flops for each national team. There may be a riot in Rio, but there’ll be a party in Carnaby!

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JUNE 2014 | DIRECTORY | 60

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JUNE 2014 | INTERVIEW | 62

laST orDerS wiTh... naTalie clarke as head of menswear at lifestyle e-tailer Surfdome, natalie clarke is at the helm of the brands, trends and products that make Surfdome the internet success it is today. Victoria Jackson discovers the career path clarke took, and what she’s in search for this s/s 15 buying season.

— Date of birth: 01/10/1982 place of birth: Paddington lives now: Hertfordshire Twitter: @Surfdome Website: www.surfdome.com

Victoria Jackson: it is great to see women in what is a predominately male industry. how did you reach your position at Surfdome?

Natalie Clarke: I couldn’t agree more! I’ve worked in retail since I left school. I worked my way up through management at French Connection when I was 21 and then moved across to buying. Before Surfdome I worked for a private sales online retailer buying men’s brands. Prior to that I worked at Envy for five years, across men’s branded and Chilli Pepper (women’s) product development. While at Envy I also had a stall on Portobello Green on weekends, selling women’s clothing and vintage furs. I experienced various other categories in buying, product development on accessories/swimwear and women’s product development, but it was menswear branded buying that I enjoyed the most. Women will shop around for fashion, especially with the offering on the high street, whereas men tend to know which brands they like and stick with them, so there’s more volume to work with on menswear labels.

Plus I really enjoy it, which always helps.

— VJ: how would a regular day in the Surfdome office play out?

NC: Busy! I’ll have a brief with the menswear team first thing on what’s happening that day, then perhaps trade meetings, product selection, styling of product and sign-offs – the list goes on.

Working with so many brands at Surfdome is great, and every day is different, which I love.

— VJ: which shows will you be attending this season?

NC: Definitely Jacket Required to see what’s new there, and The Place.

— VJ: Do you think there is now more of a blur between the lines of surfwear/sportswear and leisurewear than there has been in the past?

NC: Yes I do, definitely. There are a lot of crossovers, with brands trying to appeal to more customers and competing with more labels than they would have previously. Plus brands have to keep evolving to a certain extent to stay relevant, and the appeal for surfwear/sportswear in the mass market means labels have to keep up-to-date with current trends.

— VJ: any trends you’re excited about for the coming season?

NC: I’m really looking forward to seeing how street fashion and sports luxe have moved on from s/s 14.

— VJ: and lastly, what are you looking for this s/s 15 buying season?

NC: I want to find something different to the norm – something that we haven’t already got and that can create a good buzz. More importantly, it’s about finding something that will engage our customers.

quick-Fire queSTionS — Who is your mentor?

Not so much a mentor, but an inspiration – a previous boss. No matter how stressful the day got, they managed to keep the team upbeat and motivated.

— Favourite film?

The Notebook.

— One thing you can’t live without?

My family.

— Advice you’d give your 16-year-old self?

Take risks and stay determined.

— What did you want to be when you grew up?

An athlete.

#ReadyForRio