MWB MAGAZINE FEBRUARY ISSUE 219 by fashion buyers Ltd

ISSUE 219 | FEBRUARY 2015 | £6.95 | WWW.MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

BACK TO THE FUTURE MWB HIGHLIGHTS ONE OF THIS SEASON’S KEY TRENDS – A RETURN TO THE 70S — SHOW TIME PREVIEWING THE BRANDS TO CATCH AND THE FACES TO SEE AT MODA —

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FEBRUARY 2015 | CONTENTS | 07

F E A T U R E S 14

Online Insider Advice, news and issues online

Retail Insider The latest in-store news

Success in the US Thierry Bale assesses the American market

Ask the experts Industry experts discuss the issues affecting retailers

Product news Rounding up the key stories this month

In-season stock Blooming blues

In-season stock Bold choice

Fresh finds in Florence Season’s style as seen at Pitti Uomo

Street style snapping People at Pitti Uomo

Collections from the capital Highlights from LC:M

Moda Comprehensive guide to the industry’s national trade event

Question time Key Moda Gent exhibitors reveal all

Brands to watch Labels not to miss at Moda

Moda Footwear Essential footwear labels

Select Moda’s directional brands for menswear and footwear

Selfridges puts product first The iconic department store reveals its plans

Swinging back to the seventies MWB’s mainstream photo shoot

A-Z of Berlin The season as seen at Seek, Premium and Panorama

R E G U L A R S 9 10 24

Comment News Interview Maurizio Perich, business unit director, Energie

82 87 90

Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With… Ozwald Boateng

Front cover:

Seidensticker shirt 0049 521 306 590 (hat and braces, stylist’s own)

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E D I T O R Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com

FEBRUARY 2015 | 09

COMMENT

— D E P U T Y

E D I T O R

Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — C O N T R I B U T O R S Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — S U B

E D I T O R

Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — D E S I G N E R S Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — S E N I O R

S A L E S

M A N A G E R

Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — S A L E S

E X E C U T I V E

Fiona Warburton fiona.warburton@ras-publishing.com — S U B S C R I P T I O N S Laura Martindale laura.martindale@ite-exhibitions.com — H E A D

O F

M E N S W E A R

Jamie Harden jamie@moda-uk.co.uk — E D I T O R I A L

D I R E C T O R

Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — P O R T F O L I O

D I R E C T O R

Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — M A R K E T I N G

D I R E C T O R

Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — M A N A G I N G

Following weeks of travelling, to London, Florence, Berlin and Copenhagen, the MWB team has brought together the best of what’s new for a/w 15. Whether it’s a fresh discovery in the grounds of Fortezza Da Basso at Pitti Uomo or the stripped-back space of Seek, this issue focuses on the new, the innovative and that something a little different to shake up your current offer. —

D I R E C T O R

Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com —

MWB is published 9 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2015 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication. Reprographics/printing Image Colourprint 01482 652323 —

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. RAS Publishing Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.

London Collections: Men (LC:M) firmly kicked off proceedings, with the four-day event bringing not only the cream of British crop to the capital, but international press, buyers and bloggers. As the only trade title to partner with LC:M, it was fantastic to see so many familiar faces at our MWB x LC:M drinks event at The Hospital Club on the Saturday evening. Despite the last couple of seasons at Pitti Uomo being slightly subdued, meanwhile, visitor figures revealed an 11 per cent increase in international buyers, and the general consensus, in and around the masses of photographers and peacocks courting each other in the grounds, was that it was a successful and bustling 87th edition. The trade show landscape of Berlin, however, was incredibly different to that of previous seasons, with Bread & Butter hosting a 40-brand showcase, as opposed to the mile-long experience it once was. I’m sure I won’t be the only one to think how sad it was to drive past a deserted Tempelhof, and even sadder to see two boxes at the front of Karl-Heinz Muller’s Back to the Street event, asking people to vote to keep BBB or bury it. One common thread running throughout each of the shows, however, was the focus on interesting quality product, which we’ve highlighted in our reviews starting on p36. Moving forward to the rest of the buying season, we’ve compiled the best of Moda, looking at Moda Gent, Moda Footwear and contemporary section Select. Taking place on 15-17 February 2015 at the NEC Birmingham, the show promises a stellar line-up with brands including Timberland, Aigle, McGregor and Alpha Industries to name a few. And on a final note, be sure to get yourself to Moda Gent’s Breakfast Club, a new initiative to give buyers and visitors a voucher for a cup of coffee and a pastry between 9am and 11am across all three days of the event. Looking forward to seeing many of you there. Victoria Jackson Editor

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FEBRUARY 2015 | NEWS | 10

N E W S

JOHN LEWIS UNVEILS THIRD “FLEXIBLE FORMAT” STORE

BARBOUR

ONGOING COLD SNAP DRIVES WINTER SALES Retailers across the nation have delayed their winter sales in light of the ongoing cold snap, but are urging suppliers to adapt their delivery times in line with the ever-changing seasons. This month’s unseasonably cold weather – which has seen snow across the north and temperatures plummeting to below zero nationwide – has driven demand for winter lines, helping retailers to delay discounting until mid-January onwards. “It’s been very cold so we held our nerve and didn’t discount too early,” says Phil Goodfellow, co-owner of Northern Threads in South Shields, Tyne & Wear. “We didn’t implement our final discounting until the very end of January because items such as long sleeved tops were still selling well and, even when we did discount, we only reduced the price by 20 per cent on many lines.” Mark Hurley – owner of independent young fashion chain Hurley with stores in Bolton and Wigan – agrees that the cold snap allowed him to hold off discounting for longer than usual after the Christmas period. “We normally reduce heavier winter clothing and footwear more aggressively,” he says. “But we held back and made better margins, with jackets and winter shoes selling particularly well for us throughout January.” Retailers have, however, urged suppliers to adapt their delivery schedules in line with the ever-changing meteorological conditions, which often see cold spells arriving later and later throughout the winter season. “The deliveries simply do not reflect the seasons,” says Richard Bell, owner of Cumbria-based chain Bell Clothing. “We are seeing strong sales on warm coats from brands such as Barbour, jumpers by Superdry, warm shirts by Olymp and additional sales of items such as thick socks by Crew and Gant. It would make more sense for us to have these items delivered in October, have an agreement that we don’t go into Sale until 1 February, and then start selling our spring stock in March.” —

Work on the Bond Street retail development in Chelmsford, including a John Lewis flexible format department store, began this week with a groundbreaking ceremony to mark the occasion. Set to open for autumn 2016, John Lewis Chelmsford will anchor the second phase of the Bond Street development in Chelmsford city centre, owned by Aquila. The scheme will include 20 retail units, providing a mix of shops, river-fronted restaurants and a cinema. John Lewis Chelmsford will offer the full John Lewis product assortment including fashion, beauty, electronics, home and nursery. It will provide 90,000 sq ft selling space split over three floors in a flexible format, meaning an edited display is complemented by in-store terminals, providing full access to the range online. —

POSSIBLE SALE FOR BHS Iconic British high-street store BHS could be sold following losses of £21m last year. The performance of the store – which is owned by Arcadia – has been blamed for an overall fall of three per cent in Arcadia profits, and talks are reportedly under way to sell the chain as a result. “We have had several approaches on BHS over the past few months, and it is now the company’s plan to explore whether any of these can be brought to a conclusion,” says a spokeswoman for Arcadia. The chain currently has over 180 stores nationwide, spanning menswear, womenswear, childrenswear and homeware. The retailer was bought by Arcadia in 2000 for £200m. Competition from discount stores such as Primark have been blamed for the poor performance of the store, which was established in 1928. —

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FEBRUARY 2015 | NEWS | 11

IN BRIEF

RETAIL LOTTERY LAUNCHES

PITTI UOMO SEES “RECORDBREAKING” VISITOR NUMBERS

Industry charity the Retail Trust will launch its biggest-ever fundraising initiative next month with the introduction of Retailwinners. Dedicated to those working in the retail sector, the lottery will offer prizes of up to £5,000, with all proceeds going towards the Trust’s charitable work with employees of the industry past and present. “This lottery is our way – and the retail industry’s way – of giving back to those who work so hard to make this industry successful,” says Michael Green, development director at Retail Trust. “We are offering them an exclusive lottery that allows workers to fund help and assistance for others in their industry, as well as having a chance to win the jackpot for themselves. It’s a 1 in 135 chance of winning, which sounds like good odds to me.” The lottery will launch on 20 February. Those in the sector can enter at retailtrust.org.uk/retailWINNERS. —

Last month’s Pitti Uomo returned for its a/w 15 edition, attracting 24,000 buyers – a 15 per cent increase on the 20,800 buyers who attended the January 2014 show. Overall there was an increase of 11 per cent in international buyer attendance. Meanwhile, the number of Italian buyers increased by 17 per cent compared to last year’s edition. CEO of Pitti Immagine, Raffaello Napoleone, says, “This has been a more than encouraging edition of Pitti Uomo – an excellent start to the season marked by great confidence and optimism. These are the only words to describe this edition – a rise in attendance, not only among foreign buyers, but also among our own Italian buyers, which is a source of great satisfaction.” —

CRIME COSTS TO RETAILERS AT RECORD HIGH LAST YEAR

NEW FUNDING FOR SCOTTISH DESIGNERS

Last year saw the cost of crime to retailers soar to £603m, breaking the previous record of £600m set in 2011. The rise – reported by the British Retail Consortium, following its annual crime survey – was attributed to a rise in the value of each incident of theft, rather than a rise in the number of offences. Specifically, the industry body estimates that average cost of each incident was around £241 – up a staggering amount from £45 just five years ago, and indicative of a new phenomenon of thieves specifically targeting more high-ticket items. As a result of the perceived increase in the threat of crime, a third of retailers reported that they will be investing even more into crime prevention over the next two years. —

Zero Waste Scotland is offering funding to Scottish textile and apparel designers. The new funding will be available to help designers reduce textile waste by adopting new methods with the aim to keep materials in a high-value state for as long as possible. The Circular Economy Textile and Apparel Fund is open to textile and apparel designers with a minimum of two years’ experience across performance, technical textiles and clothing, fashion and couture. The funding is the first of its kind in Scotland, and is available to support the prototyping of new textile design and construction techniques. The funding can also be used to explore alternative fibres and materials, design assembly, resource efficient practices and to discover new business models like the leasing or hiring out of products and services. —

RETAIL TRUST RAISES £1.1M Last month saw industry charity the Retail Trust raise £1.1m at its annual celebration, which this year took place at London’s iconic Old Billingsgate venue. Over 1,000 representatives of the industry attended the ceremony – the 62nd of its kind – including Arcadia’s chairman Sir Philip Green and fashion designer Jeff Banks and Funds were raised on the night through a tombola, a silent auction and a grand auction, with all proceeds being donated to the sector’s charity, which assists current and former employees of the retail industry who are in need. — RETAILERS ON TRACK TO MEET ENVIRONMENTAL GOALS Retailers across the country are on track to meet ambitious voluntary targets to reduce the direct environmental impact of their operations, according to a new report released by industry body the British Retail Consortium. Under the Better Retailing Climate initiative, retailers committed to working with suppliers to lower their energy use and divert waste from landfill and have already achieved a 13 per cent reduction in carbon emissions from retail operations ahead of the 25 per cent target to be achieved in 2020. — FORTHCOMING ASBCI CONFERENCE: THE FIT FACTOR Experts from across the industry have been drafted in to discuss a variety of topics across tailoring, fashion and more, for the forthcoming ASBCI (Association of Suppliers to the British Clothing Industry) fashion industry conference. Set to tackle the topic of size and fit, the “The Fit Factor – World class wisdom on fashion sizing and fit” conference will take place on 5 March 2015 at the Peterborough Marriott Hotel, and will include a Savile Row master class in the fundamental practice of taking accurate fit measurements for men and women. Confirmed speakers to date include: Alvanon, Marks & Spencer, Henry Poole & Co, C&A, Tesco Stores, Kantar Worldpanel Fashion, BMB Clothing and just-style.com. — ASOS BOSS SELLS £20M WORTH OF SHARES Founder of online retail giant Asos Nick Robertson has sold shares in the business amounting to £20.2m. The retail tycoon sold more than 750,000 shares in the business towards the end of last month at a higher price than they were at the start of the year, although the price at the time was 50 per cent less than the worth the previous year. — £142M PROFIT FOR AMAZON Online retail giant Amazon has reported profits of £142m in the final quarter of 2014. The retailer saw sales soar by 15 per cent during the three month period, and is attributing the majority of its growth to the increase in its Prime subscription service, which saw its user-base grow by 53 per cent last year alone. The profit did, however, come hot on the heels of the retailer’s biggest ever loss during the previous quarter, leading to Amazon boss Jeff Bezos describing the firm’s profits as “inherently unpredictable”. —

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FEBRUARY 2015 | NEWS | 12

IN BRIEF

JR TAYLOR CLOSES ITS DOORS

BEST OF BRITANNIA HEADS NORTH

Lancashire department store JR Taylor closed its doors for final time last month, after administrators failed to find a buyer for the business. The store – located in Lytham St Annes – had been trading for over 100 years before it was placed into administration before Christmas. Staff at the store were originally assured that business would proceed as usual until a buyer was found for the business. However, as no buyer was forthcoming, the business will cease trading on Saturday 17 January. “The changing nature of shopping and retail habits and the economic climate has placed huge pressures on JR Taylor,” says Matthew Bye, representing the store. “It has been losing money for a number of years, despite the best efforts of the management and staff to achieve a turnaround in financial performance.” —

Following three successful editions in London, Best of Britannia (BOB), the consumer and B2B trade show for British brands specialising in everything from fashion and fragrance through to food and drink, is launching BOB North. Taking place in the historic Post Office building and Market Square in Preston, Lancashire, BOB North will take place on 15-17 May 2015 and is being organised in partnership with Marketing Lancashire and Preston City Council. BOB London, meanwhile, has a new venue for its next edition on 26-28 June 2015. Taking place at Nicholls & Clarke warehouse building and courtyard on Shoreditch High Street, the new setting offers indoor and outdoor space, providing up to 40,000 sq ft of brand space for exhibitors in a location where high pedestrian footfall is guaranteed. —

PUBLIC SCHOOL WINS 2014/15 IWP

NEW YEAR EXHIBITS STRONG RETAIL SALES

Last month, Public School was announced the winner of the 2014/2015 International Woolmark Prize (IWP) at London Collections: Men. The esteemed judging panel included iconic menswear designer Paul Smith and Tim Blanks, editor-at-large for Style.com. Representatives from IWP’s retail partners also made up the judging panel. Entries came from across the globe, spanning 21 countries and including more than 60 designers. Representing the USA, Public School beat the competition to win the award with its merino wool line. “What was savvy about Public School was its skill with manufacturing and commerciality,” says Paul Smith. “Many items were fully fashioned, so for sportswear they could fit the shape of the body and work for some of the major sportswear brands. It has already invested in production; the USA has a great focus on forward thinking beyond just designing it.” —

The latest CBI Distributive Trades Survey reveals robust retail sales growth for 2015, with clothing seeing marked improvement. According to the survey, retail sales have exceeded expectations, growing strongly in the year to January. The survey of 127 firms disclosed that while sales volumes grew at a slower pace than in the previous month, which benefited from Black Friday sales, the rate of growth remained healthy, and volumes were well above average for the time of year. Firm growth is anticipated again in the year to February. Among the retail sub-sectors, growth was generally broad-based, although clothing reported the strongest rise in sales since February 2013. Internet sales volumes also rose firmly again in the year to January, however the rate of growth eased off slightly for the second month running. —

SMALL RETAILERS TARGET US Small British retailers are increasingly targeting a US consumer base to boost their online sales, according to a new study carried out by the Royal Mail. Respondents to the survey revealed that the US has now overtaken Europe as the top target for international sales, with 39 per cent of British retailers looking to the US for business, compared to just 30 per cent targeting their closer European neighbours. The change has been attributed to the stronger US economy and the strength of the US dollar. — BIRA BANK LENDING TO INDIES ON THE UP Part of the British Independent Retailers Association (Bira), Bira Bank, the UK’s only trade association bank, is celebrating a record breaking 2014. Having twice surpassed the £1m barrier of lending in a month to members during 2014 – the first time in its 59 year history the bank closed 2014 with a 26 per cent increase in overall lending compared with 2013. The bank wrote 20 per cent more agreements than in 2013, supporting the trade association’s members with their financial needs. Significantly, 25 per cent of all enquiries came from new sources, demonstrating a confidence to not only invest in their business, but to use their own trade association bank as an alternative to more conventional sources. — JD SPORTS DISCONTINUES OWN LABEL High-street chain JD Sports has discontinued its own-label menswear collection, Open, less than a year after the launch of its first store in Stevenage last August. The Open venture saw the chain open 11 standalone stores dedicated to the menswear label last year, aiming to fill a perceived gap in the market for a young men’s fashion brand. The stores will continue to trade until the chain makes a further decision regarding its plans for the 11 stores, which are located in Stevenage, Northampton, Arndale, Hanley, Merryhill, Leeds, Silverburn, Brighton, Bristol, Leicester and Bury. — MISSONI OPENS PARIS FLAGSHIP Italian fashion house Missoni has opened a new flagship store in Paris at 219 Rue Saint-Honoré, carrying the brand’s menswear and womenswear collections. The boutique, which spans 300 sq m over two floors, has two entrances – one on Rue Saint-Honoré and the other on Rue d’Alger. Inside, Missoni’s tones and textures are applied in various ways to the materials – wood, Alicrite, metal and fabric – to create a unique space in which technology and tailoring merge. The outcome is a luxurious collage of stripes, zig-zags and expanded motifs interpreted on walls and ceilings. — BBB PLANS ITS RETURN Berlin trade show Bread & Butter has revealed plans to return this summer, following the cancellation of its winter edition this year. The event has announced a date line of 2-4 July at its usual location of Berlin Tempelhof, and has outlined plans for new areas within the show including a consumer area and a section dedicated to distribution agencies. —

HEART of FASHION MODA 15-17 February 2015 NEC Birmingham. Register online at moda-uk.co.uk

Woman

Lingerie & Swimwear

Accessories

Gent

Footwear

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FEBRUARY 2015 | ADVICE | 14

ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.

ADVICE: HOW CUSTOMER SEGMENTATION CAN BOOST REVENUE FOR FASHION BRANDS

KESTREL LEMEN is a Marketing Strategist at Bronto Software and contacted via fieldworksmarketing. co.uk

It can be tricky to maintain success in the saturated fashion market. In this month’s Online Insider advice column we look at how retailers can stand out amongst the competition by segmenting their customer base to drive engagement, loyalty and, ultimately, increase sales. Simple segmentation methods usually split a database by variables such as gender but, by leveraging transactional history and behavioural activity, it is possible to target more specifically across various demographics and customer profiles, including location and VIP groups. This approach led to a year-over-year lift of 12 per cent in average order value and a 53 per cent increase in revenue for our client and contemporary footwear brand, Hudson Shoes. To boost revenue from lapsed purchasers, email marketing allows brands to run an automated coupon message series, targeting customers who haven’t purchased again within a certain time frame. The coupon, personalised to each shopper, incentivises their next purchase and helps to contribute to additional revenues. Another issue for ecommerce marketers is basket abandonment, which can occur for a variety of reasons, from costly shipping charges to complicated checkout processes. However, by employing targeted messages that address these issues and provide incentives, such as free delivery, a discount voucher or flash sales, brands can recover sales and guide customers back on the path to purchase. Indeed, with a dedicated basket abandonment trigger, Hudson Shoes secured circa 30 per cent more conversions each month, rescuing sales that would otherwise have been lost. So, by taking an intelligent and segmented approach to both existing and prospective customers, brands and retailers can ensure that consumers receive messages relevant to them, enhancing their shopping experience and keeping them coming back for more. —

WEB WATCH

WWW.STYLEPILOT.COM Designed to help the male shopper navigate the vast world of online fashion, StylePilot is a fairly new concept in internet shopping, designed to create a DNA database of each visitor, before offering recommendations based on size, colouring, lifestyle, likes and dislikes. Although primarily a shopping site, there are also must-visit categories such as Style News, Deal of the Day, Essential Tips and a Designer A-Z – featuring the likes of Hackett, Joseph and Folk. —

NEWS

TOMMY HILFIGER UNVEILS DIGITAL SHOWROOM Lifestyle fashion label Tommy Hilfiger has announced the launch of an innovative digital sales showroom, located at its global headquarters in Amsterdam. The digital showroom revolutionises the sales experience for retailers by offering them a more engaging and seamless buying approach. The interactive system combines collection information, sales tools and brand content in one seamless touch-screen interface. The centrepiece of the digital showroom is an interactive half-metre by one-metre touch-screen table set in a walnut frame, which connects to a fourmetre-high wall-to-wall grid of ultradefinition 4K screens. Customers can digitally view every item from the Tommy Hilfiger sportswear and Hilfiger Denim seasonal collection and create custom orders with product categories laid out across a single screen. They can view head-to-toe looks, zoom in with incredible detail to see unique design features, and click on a garment for specific information such as colour offerings and size ranges. “Our digital showroom revolutionises the buying and selling journey for our retail customers and internal sales teams,” says Daniel Grieder, CEO, Tommy Hilfiger. “We are passionate about providing our clients with the best service, experience and quality. Our digital showroom concept completely re-imagines the traditional buying approach and establishes a new fashion industry benchmark for business to business sales. The concept also supports our ongoing focus on efficiency and will significantly streamline and enhance the Tommy Hilfiger sales experience.” The digital showroom concept also supports the brand’s ongoing sustainability mission, as it reduces sample production, eliminates the new for printed order forms, and diminishes the ecological impacts of shipping. The concept launched on 21 January 2015, with the Tommy Hilfiger establishing a global roll-out plan to expand into markets worldwide. —

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FEBRUARY 2015 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 16

RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry. —

VIEWPOINT Gary Tillott is the managing director of Goddards in Kings Lynn and is a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB).

LEVI’S OPENS LONDON POP-UP STORE Levi’s has opened a pop-up store in London’s Shoreditch, dedicated to its Line 8 range. The store is located on Charlotte Road in the heart of Shoreditch, and features the s/s 15 Line 8 collection. The pop-up, which will be open for five months, is the first store dedicated to the Line 8 range in the UK. Among other pieces, the men’s collection features tops available in new fits. Stand-out items include a Varsity jacket, a two-pocket Western-inspired shirt and wide-leg shorts, which feature stitching that has been dyed to match the fabric. The store will also stock Levi’s accessories including men’s and women’s bags, hats, scarves and men’s leather goods such as wallets and belts. “We first launched Line 8 three years ago,” says Richard Hurren, vice president at Levi Strauss & Co North Europe. “In this time it’s built up a strong following, so we’re excited to be dedicating a popup store to the line. We love the energy in Shoreditch and its dynamic fashion scene – which is why Charlotte Road felt like the perfect location to house our Line 8 collection.” —

IN BRIEF H&M TO OPEN 400 STORES H&M is planning to open around 400 new stores for the financial year 2014/2015, as the Swedish retail chain announced full-year sales increased in local currencies by 14 per cent to SEK176.6bn. Most of the expansion of H&M stores will take place in existing markets, however it did add that Taiwan, Peru, Macau, South Africa and India will become new H&M markets in 2015. In addition, H&M will also target new online markets this year, with Belgium, Bulgaria, the Czech Republic, Hungary, Poland, Romania, Slovakia and Switzerland being added to its e-commerce. —

NEW BALANCE AIMS TO LAUNCH DEBUT UK STORE US footwear label New Balance is set to open its debut store in the UK. Looking for an ideal location in the heart of London’s prime retail sector, the label is understood to have signed a 10-year lease for the 14,000 sq ft building at 287-291 Oxford Street. Spanning three floors, the building is currently occupied by Avia Investors, but the agreement, which is due to be finalised next week, will see the New Balance store open in 2017. —

It’s been an especially busy start to the year at Goddards. In addition to clearing up the winter Sale, taking deliveries and preparing for the buying season, we’ve been installing an Epos system across the entire Coes group (of which Goddards is a part). Bar-coding the stock is a daunting prospect at the best of times, but ultimately we know that the benefits will far outweigh the added work. As any retailer will agree, there’s never a convenient time to turn your store’s system on its head and install a new way of operating. However, fortunately for us the shop floor has been busy – which has kept up morale. Aside from the obvious dearth of sufficient cold weather to shift overcoats, fleece-lined parkas, hats and gloves, we’ve had a positive reaction to the introduction of more fashion clothing from one of our oldest brands, Barbour. The scarves sold primarily as fashion accessories, rather than as functional items, and the way in which it has repositioned itself as a comprehensive lifestyle brand appears to have worked well for our customer. Overall, Ralph Lauren was our strongest sellthrough this winter, largely on account of the quality of the products and wide spectrum of customer it serves. In line with the rest of the industry, I’ve been impressed with Ted Baker, too. It produced some exciting pieces last season that proved popular with our customers. Essentially, the brand knows its customer very well. Out of all the labels we carry, Ted Baker is the one that doesn’t mind being a bit different, diversifying and evolving each season. A lot of brands tend to produce similar styles and collections each season, perhaps just changing the colour, but Ted Baker truly evolves and surprises. Yes, the fit may not be as forgiving as other brands, but it has a clear identity and creative ideas, which are critical for survival in a competitive market. We always strive to be different and it’s inspiring when our brands do the same. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

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FEBRUARY 2015 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 17

SHOPPED: GILES HENDERSON How was autumn/winter for you? We actually had a good season. We’ve become more focused and steered clear of discounting. I didn’t get into retail to discount – it’s all turnover but poor profit margins. For the last two years I’ve been concentrating on what we do as an independent and how we best serve our customers, be it in the shop or online, and it’s working. With online, I’d rather sell less but at a better margin and build customer loyalty. — GILES HENDERSON, When did you go on Sale? OWNER, SIX WHITING Like last year, we didn’t go on Sale until the end of January. STREET, BURY ST EDMUNDS You buy a certain amount of stock for a season, so that’s what you’ve got to run with. What’s the point of discounting it, like some do, even before Christmas? Our margins are up, and I can look at sell-throughs properly and what has worked. And I have some credible results to go on now I’m buying for a/w 15, and my buying budget will be up. — What’s working for you? Brands such as Barena have worked very well – quality product that we can educate our customers about. Norse Projects also does a good job, as you get younger guys coming in specifically because they love it, but also 50-year-old guys buy it because they just want a nice jumper or whatever. They keep it simple, at a good price point. Stone Island also continues to perform well for us – great fabrics – and we had a strong season with Paul Smith as well. —

IN FOCUS: URBAN INDUSTRY STORE 2 PARK VIEW, ALDER CLOSE, EASTBOURNE, EAST SUSSEX BN23 6QE

ESTABLISHED: JULY 2012 BRANDS: NIKE, NIKE SB, ASICS, STÜSSY, LEVI’S, VANS, DICKIES, ONLY NY, HUF, NEW BALANCE, OBEY, ADIDAS ORIGINALS, PUBLISH, PATAGONIA, CARHARTT

MARGARET HOWELL OPENS IN FLORENCE British designer Margaret Howell has opened a standalone flagship store and production office in the heart of Florence. Selling both men’s and womenswear, as well as home products, reissue and vintage furniture. Spanning two levels, the upper level houses the first production office outside of the UK. The interior has been designed by William Russell of Pentagram Architects and reflects the original design Russell created for Howell on Wigmore Street, London in 2002. “For the past 10 years, I have worked with Will Russell on the design of our shop interiors,” says Howell. “While incorporating my ideas, Will always adds something that just wouldn’t occur to me – a special spatial vision – resulting in a rewarding and successful relationship.” —

IN BRIEF

Husband-and-wife team Daniel and Vicky King started up Urban Industry in 2002 as a small independent in Eastbourne, selling streetwear brands such as Freshjive, Mooks and Addict. Three moves later, in 2011, they landed in their current site, which is more like a warehouse (and feeds the thriving online business), but with a decent shop-fit at the front of it. They are now on the edge of town, but it’s a real destination for 18-25 year old guys in Sussex, including Hastings and Brighton (around 20 miles away) with its large student population. Daniel says, “We typically get five guys in a Corsa pulling up, piling out and knowing what they want to buy. Five guys in a small car is our target market! In fact our core market isn’t necessarily in Eastbourne itself – it’s more on the periphery. We even get quite a few guys coming down from South London for the day, to come and shop and have some fish and chips on the seafront.” Urban Industry carries over 2,500 different products including almost 500 shoes, 600 T-shirts and 150 jackets. It stocks products from over 90 worldwide brands, and aims to stock the newest talent from the UK, too. Nike, Stüssy and Carhartt are among its bestselling brands. —

DENHAM LOOKS TO UK EXPANSION Amsterdam denim label Denham has appointed sales agency Options in the UK to advise on its expansion strategy and oversee the distribution of its wholesale and retail business throughout the country. Denham, founded by Jason Denham, currently has standalone store located in Shoreditch, but aims to open three additional stores in key cities in the UK, as well as a larger flagship store in Central London. Moving forward, the denim label is looking to open up to 10 stores throughout the UK. —

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FEBRUARY 2015 | REPORT | 19

SUCCESS IN THE US The US is one of the most rewarding and competitive fashion markets in the world. Thierry Bayle of Global Fashion Management has spent more than 20 years helping European fashion brands to sell successfully there. Here, he shares some top tips for taking your brand to the States. —

Before we go any further, I need to get something off my chest. Let’s call it the Gold Rush Syndrome. Have you any idea how many British and European brands have decided, very often at the last minute, to attend US trade shows and then recruit local agents with little or no preparation? Does it sound like a brilliant strategy? Really? In so many cases it cost them considerable time and money. But it really doesn’t have to be this way. If you’re planning to take your brand to the US, my top tip can be summed up in one word and a lot of hard work – preparation. The US offers our brands endless opportunities, and you can certainly strike gold. However, unless you take the time to do the research, preparation and legwork required, it could end up costing you more than you make. Easy when you say it quickly, but what does this mean for your brand and what will your To Do list look like? Obviously, every market is different, but there are some key considerations for the US that will make all the difference to your success there.

These include: — COVERAGE: It’s a huge country, but many brands go no further than NYC, LV or LA. Why miss out? Shouldn’t you be showing in Las Vegas, too, where you’ll find the only national show? What about regional shows? Duty optimisation (there are a number of options here, so get advice on what is best for you). — US MARKET SEGMENTS: You need to know and understand these and be able to describe which price point your brand fits into so that you can position yourself appropriately with buyers. You must also use the American words to describe your line. — BRAND POSITIONING: Understanding where your brand fits into the market – who are your competitors? Which brands would sit well alongside yours? Get some training on talking to American

buyers – if you use the phrases they want to hear and offer the deliveries they expect, your brand will have greater credibility and they will be more likely to consider it. — SALES ROUTES: Are you better off recruiting an agent or setting up your own showroom and sales office? Should you consider a distributor (despite my sharp intake of breath and vigorous head shaking, it can work for some brands)? As you can see, there’s plenty to think about, which is why I always advise my clients to delay their US market entry until they feel ready. It can easily take a year or two to prepare for this type of venture. However, after 4-5 months you should be able to understand and connect with buyers and set up the marketing machine to convert them. It’s not just a question of feeling mentally ready and having the right information at your fingertips. In addition, you need to look at your products and decide whether they are right for >>>

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FEBRUARY 2015 | REPORT | 20

THIERRY BAYLE

the US market or whether they need tweaking: Are the sizes right? Will they fit Americans? Are you offering the right colours and fabrics? Are they too daring for some regions or too conservative for others? Should you be aiming to sell darker colours on the East Coast and brighter ones in the South? Do you need a more trendy version for the West Coast? Don’t forget that your US business will impact on your whole company, not just the design, sales and marketing staff. Don’t forget to make sure that the accounts team are not only fully briefed but also thoroughly trained to handle US business. If you want to be paid, it’s incredibly important that they understand the protocol for issuing and chasing a US invoice. I’ve mentioned some specific issues to think about when entering the US market. However, it will be even more important to ensure that your vision and strategy are rock solid, in order to ensure that the new venture has firm foundations. It has to be your strategy, decided by you. With this in mind, I’d like to pass on the following tips:

Tip 1: Execution Ideas are only great if they are well executed. Make sure you have competent staff or experts joining you. These people must be happy to be challenged, ready to look at new ideas and new ways of doing things. Avoid people who are always too busy to listen and who claim to know it all. — Tip 2: Cover the bases Having a holistic approach is critical. You can have one expert or several experts but you must remember that you cannot succeed unless you have covered all of these points – Product management / merchandising / sales / marketing / logistics / duty and optimisation / credit management / public relations / celebrity placement. — Tip 3: Have a truly nationwide approach This means you must move outside New York and New York’s trade shows. — Tip 4: Act on a local or regional level You need to look at a minimum of five regions. There is more than just the West Coast and the East Coast. When you have identified five different regions, ask yourself how your brand is represented in these areas. You will see that you are missing a lot of opportunities. — Tip 5: Have the X Factor Have a little “je ne sais quoi”, something to differentiate you from your competitors. You need to be creative. — Tip 6: Train, train and train again The market changes, consumers are more knowledgeable and new sales techniques appear. You must keep learning new tricks – yes, it’s exhausting, but practice makes perfect (and $s!). — Tip 7: Control your risk At every turn, we are faced with more and more risks: risk to produce the goods; risk to take an agent; risk to give credit to buyers. You have to understand, control and, above all, manage these risks. — Tip 8: Products You need to adapt your products to the US market. It does not mean that you have to change your identity, but you have to identify which pieces are relevant for the US market. — Tip 9: Preparation Preparation is the key to success. You cannot build up export and leave preparation to the last minute. That applies, of course, to the trade shows you will attend. You must be prepared and understand what the market requires and what will trigger agents and buyers to take on your brand. You must know how to invoice (FOB or landed / £ or $), ship and collect money. So many questions for which you need answers! — Tip 10: Network and talk to as many people as possible Talk and compare experiences. Ask people how they succeeded, or why they failed. Make sure you understand the brand and product proposition before you jump to the conclusion that FOB terms are good or that the Coterie is THE show you must attend. As well as my other tips, make sure you adopt the following rules: sell the goods in dollars and landed duty paid; give credit solely to good buyers; attend more than one trade show or have 4/5 regional sales reps; and always remember the three words that govern many individuals in the US – money, money and money. — Global Fashion Management Brand and retail management Tel +44 20 8576 6233 usa@globalfashionmanagement.com www.globalfashionmanagement.com

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ASK THE EXPERTS INDUSTRY EXPERTS LOOK AT SOME OF THE KEY ISSUES AFFECTING BRANDS AND RETAILERS, FROM BRANDING THROUGH TO DISTRIBUTION. —

FEBRUARY 2015 | BUSINESS EXPERTS | 22

HIGH-IMPACT INTERVIEWS – FROM THE OTHER SIDE OF THE DESK

HOW A DISTINCT BRAND DNA ALLOWS LABELS TO SURVIVE THE TEST OF TIME

People get very nervous in interviews – often including the interviewer. — Ineffective interviewers can lead to making the wrong decision, and getting someone completely wrong for the role who could be more of a hindrance than a help. Ultimately they will leave (by choice or by force) and you’ll have to start over again. But here is how to interview with impact, and make the right decision... Forget old-school questions such as, “Where do you see yourself in five years’ time?” or “What are your strengths and weaknesses?” These questions are not helpful as they don’t give you the information you need to decide if someone can do the job. The most effective interview technique is the Competency Based Interview (CBI). Firstly, identify what skills, behaviours, qualities and so on someone needs in order to be able to do the job well. In retail this will frequently be communication skills, team-working, customer service etc. Ask questions to find out not only if someone has those skills, but also real examples of when they have been demonstrated. Start with a general open question (so that “yes” and “no” are not answers) about the competency you’re exploring, and ask more specific questions to get the details you need. Ask questions structured around: a) circumstances – what the situation was; b) behaviour – what they did or said; and c) impact – what the outcome was. For example: • “Tell me about a time when you dealt with a difficult customer” • “What did you do/say?” • “How did the customer respond?” • “What happened in the end?”

Before the eruption of vertical retailing and the explosion of the luxury market, most brands that sat in between these categories were calling the shots. — They had expansive marketing budgets to do so, because they had the turnover. Since the first major crash in 2008/9 and with revenues cut, brands in this arena had to cut costs. With the further expansion of the luxury market and the entry level sector boom, this led to consumers simultaneously downscaling for economic reasons and up-scaling for status (think Prada handbag with Uniqlo T-shirt) and all of a sudden the mid-zoned brands started diminishing. With increasing competition from adjacent labels that are getting their stories, price points and the “glamour” status right, there are few options to play with. Throughout my career, I have worked with fashion houses and labels to establish their brand DNA. If your product is good and has visible values, culture, heritage and a great story behind it, your brand will resonate and survive the tough times and remain relevant through the changing landscape of fashion – a brand with integrity. To ascertain the essence of your brand DNA, exploring the construction methods once used and blending elements of current trends ensures you bring your brand into the now, and allows your label to become relevant in the market. Manifesting your brand’s history and culture into products created provides distinction from your competitors. Ask yourself what triggered the conception of the brand, who is the targeted audience and what is your brand’s appeal in the market. By considering all components of the foundations of a brand, you will have achieved Brand DNA Synthesis – where all the elements of Brand DNA come together to create something new and providing scope for innovation. This would be documented visually and textually into a Product DNA Bible for the entire brand to utilise across all lines, packaging and products. By understanding your brand’s culture, heritage, story and values, it allows consumers to connect with your brand and develop loyalty to your products over competitors. By having a stable DNA at the root of your brand, this guides the evolution of your products without straying from the uniqueness of what your label has to offer, ensuring a strong audience base that continues to buy into your offerings, providing longevity and survival through turbulent times. —

Avoid asking, “What would you do if...?” Get reallife answers, not hypothetical ones. Also, it’s not all about what people did in their last job – they could have skills and abilities that they have developed through other activities or interests. Avoid being ambiguous – asking about a project someone worked on in a team could lead to them talking about the project, when you’re interested in their team-working skills. Signpost to the interviewee what to focus on – “I’d like to look at your team-working skills, can you tell me about a project you’ve worked on with a team?” Keep in mind CBI – Competency Based Interview = Circumstances, Behaviour, Impact = Completely Brilliant Interviews. —

TARA DAYNES FREELANCE HR CONSULTANT FULLY QUALIFIED IN HR AND EMPLOYMENT LAW, AND TRAINING SPECIALIST WITH 20 YEARS’ EXPERIENCE. TARADAYNES@GMAIL.COM

JENNI ARKSEY FOUNDER OF GOOSE DESIGN, A LONDON APPAREL TREND AND DESIGN AGENCY. WWW.GOOSE.LONDON

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FEBRUARY 2015 | BUSINESS EXPERTS | 23

THE DISTRIBUTION DILEMMA

HOW DO I PROTECT MY BRANDING?

HOW DO I COMPLY WITH REGULATIONS ON COOKIES?

The law does not require that a distributorship agreement be in writing in order to be lawful. More surprising is the fact that such an agreement can come into existence by stealth. — This is what happened in a recent case considered by the European Court. A French supplier and a Belgian reseller had enjoyed a 10-year relationship. Orders were placed with the French company. The goods were supplied in France and resold in Belgium. The Belgian reseller adopted the brand name of the French supplier. It created a website using part of that name and advertised in the French supplier’s magazine. When the French supplier informed the Belgian company that it was appointing a Belgian company as its exclusive distributor, the Belgian reseller sued for damages. It is the case that Belgian law protects distributors and French law less so. As such, it was unsurprising that the action was brought in the Belgian courts. It was equally unsurprising that the French company sought to avoid liability by arguing that the Belgian court was not the right court to hear the claim. The French supplier’s argument was that the contract with the Belgian purchaser was simply one for the sale of goods. Therefore, as a matter of EU law, the action had to be in the French courts. In contrast, the Belgian reseller argued that the relationship was that of a distributorship involving the provision of services and, therefore, as a matter of EU law, a claim could be brought against the French supplier in the Belgian courts. The European Court decided that a typical distributorship agreement involves the provision of services. A distributor is involved in increasing distribution of goods by marketing them. Consequently, the distributor is able to offer its customers services and benefits that a simple reseller could not. This results in the distributor enjoying a competitive advantage as only it or a few others are the only ones able to sell the goods. Given that a distributorship agreement can come into existence without formality and result in the legal protection of the distributor, it is important for brands to be clear as to their commercial objectives: • If a brand doesn’t intend the purchaser to be a distributor, it should be made clear in the brand’s T&Cs of sale. If it is not and the purchaser undertakes activities similar to those of the Belgian reseller, there is a risk that the brand will be found to have appointed a distributor. • If the brand intends the purchaser to be a distributor, it should be made clear what the brand expects the purchaser to do in distributing its goods and developing the relevant market in the distributorship agreement. —

Almost all brand owners are aware of the importance of registering their trademarks and the types of signs that are recognised as trademarks such as words, devices, slogans, 3D shapes, smells, colours and sounds. — Registration provides the right to enforce their trademark against third parties who use their trademark without consent. However, brand owners should be aware that protection of their brand does not only extend to unauthorised use; they could be their own worst enemy because inaction to protect their own brand – even from themselves – could contribute to its demise. In the UK and EU, registered trademarks over five years old can be challenged if they have not been used for a continuous period of five years. Companies also need to move with the times. A logo changes over time, but brand owners often forget to update their registrations and this has an impact on whether the trademark (as registered) is being used. Such actions are common place and effective in narrowing brand owners’ rights. There are a number of simple steps that brand owners can take to ensure that their trademarks remain validly registered and will always be directly associated with their business, including: • Use your registered trademark with the ® symbol • Keep records showing use (examples include invoices, delivery notes, catalogues and advertising material) • If you change the way you use your trademark, you need to register the new version • Always use your trademark together with its generic product (eg Jacuzzi® whirlpool bath) • Never use your trademark as a verb (ie “to google” is wrong) • Always use your trademark in capital letters or otherwise highlighted in some way • Give notice of ownership eg ABC is a registered trademark of company XYZ • Conduct regular internet searches to ensure your trademark is not being used without your consent. A simple way to do this is to set “alerts” or “notifications” • Check trade journals and magazines to ensure your trademark is being correctly used by others • Don’t allow your trademark to appear in a dictionary, as this can be used to challenge your trademark on the basis that it has become generic • Ensure your brand is distinctive and different in the marketplace. This will help enforce your rights —

An informal review of the websites of various businesses featured recently in trade titles found that only half of these businesses have policies relating to the use of cookies on their websites. — Even less have registered with the Information Commissioner’s Office (ICO) as a data controller of personal information. Why do these issues matter? The use of cookies is regulated in the UK by certain privacy and electronic communication regulations (the Regulations) designed to protect the privacy of internet users. The ICO is responsible for enforcing compliance with the Regulations and has the power to take action where necessary. This includes: • Committing a business to a particular course of action in order to improve its compliance with the Regulations • Compelling a business to take action to bring about compliance with the Regulations • Although unlikely, fining a business up to £500,000

STEPHEN SIDKIN PARTNER IN FOX WILLIAMS LLP WWW.FASHIONLAW.CO.UK WWW.AGENTLAW.CO.UK © FOX WILLIAMS LLP 2014

HELEN CAWLEY PARTNER AT D YOUNG & CO LEADING INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY LAW FIRM

LAURA LUMBY ASSOCIATE AT FOX WILLIAMS LLP WWW.FASHIONLAW.CO.UK, WWW.FOXWILLIAMS.COM © FOX WILLIAMS LLP 2014

But the non-legal consequences of not complying with the Regulations should be of equal concern to businesses. So what are cookies? Cookies are small files downloaded onto a device such as a computer, tablet or mobile phone when the user accesses certain websites. Cookies collect information about the user’s internet activity. The Regulations apply to all information collected by cookies, including personal data. However, where cookies collect personal data such as the user’s name, postal address or email address, businesses need to ensure that they comply with the additional requirements of the UK Data Protection Act. In addition, any business collecting personal data through its website should have an online privacy policy, setting out the business’ practice in relation to the collection, storage and use of that personal data. What do you need to do to comply? As a first step, if you have an online presence you should undertake a “cookie audit” to assess the cookies used on your website, and the purposes of each cookie. Once identified, you will be able to consider more easily how to comply with the Regulations. Undertaking a cookie audit, establishing an appropriate cookie policy and, where applicable, register with the ICO as a data controller, are steps that every successful business should undertake. —

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FEBRUARY 2015 | INTERVIEW | 24

INTERVIEW

MAURIZIO PERICH Energie, the Italian men’s denim brand – part of Sixty Distribution, which also owns the Miss Sixty, Murphy&Nye and Refrigiwear brands – is back to reclaim its former glory with a relaunch, following the company’s takeover by Asian investment fund Crescent HydePark, with a fresh emphasis on the UK and European markets. Tom Bottomley hears the strategy from Energie business unit director Maurizio Perich. — Tom Bottomley: What has been your association with the company over the years? Maurizio Perich: I joined the Sixty Group in 2004 and, until 2011, was the export commercial director for the whole group of brands. I left the company, but rejoined in 2013 with the new owners in place, and the new company name of Sixty Distribution. Now I have two positions within the group, as I am the Energie business unit director and also the wholesale director for the Miss Sixty and Refrigiwear brands. The business now belongs to an Asian investment fund called Crescent HydePark. — TB: So the business ran into trouble before? MP: Yes, the previous Sixty Group has now finalised a procedure that is like a Company Voluntary Arrangement in the UK. It’s an agreement with all the creditors. So a brand new company has been formed to carry on with the business for all the brands. Hence the relaunch. — TB: When did the Energie brand pull out of the UK market? MP: In terms of wholesale distribution, it was from s/s 13, but we carried on our retail activities with the Energie brand through our Carnaby Street

BUSINESS UNIT DIRECTOR ENERGIE

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and High Street Kensington stores. — TB: What’s the plan for those stores now? MP: The Carnaby Street store will cease trading from the end of March, as we re-align the business and take Miss Sixty to a new and separate destination, which befits our new strategy of upgrading that brand to the premium end of the market. Energie will remain targeted at the same level as it has always been, and we will be looking for a new shop unit to house that. The Carnaby area still has the right feel and fit for the Energie brand, so we will be looking at other options for it soon. In terms of the High Street Kensington store, it will continue trading as it is for now while we decide what to do with it. — TB: So will there be a clear definition between the Energie and Miss Sixty brands, with retail mono-brand stores in different locations? MP: That’s correct. Step by step we will be relocating and renewing our retail network throughout Europe in line with the two very separate directions. Miss Sixty will be relocating to a new West End venue this spring, and the Westfield Miss Sixty store will be refurbished with the new premium concept. And we are targeting another location in Carnaby for the first Energie mono-brand store in the UK. I think Carnaby Street is still right for Energie as a London location, because it’s a denim-focused street and it’s also more of a menswear street. It will be a fresh concept store for Energie and will raise the brand’s profile. — TB: Why are you making Miss Sixty a higher-end product, but not Energie? MP: The new owners have a brand new strategy for Miss Sixty globally. This new strategy has already started in China, Hong Kong and everywhere else in Asia. We feel the premium end of the market is correct to make Miss Sixty a truly global brand, and Europe and the Americas are next in line to see the changes. Meanwhile, we feel Energie currently sits in the right area for menswear, and we are now putting our efforts into growing the wholesale side of the business once more through Present Day Studios, which is carrying the brand in the UK for a/w 15. —

FEBRUARY 2015 | INTERVIEW | 25

TB: When and where was the Energie brand first established? And what about Miss Sixty? MP: Energie and Miss Sixty were founded by Wicky Hassan and Renato Rossi in Rome. Energie came first and was launched in 1984, while Miss Sixty arrived in 1991. At the peak of the company’s success, Miss Sixty accounted for two thirds of the Group’s fashion brand revenues, while Energie accounted for the remaining third. In the past, we had a presence in Selfridges and House of Fraser with Energie. — TB: What can we expect to see product-wise? MP: The product will be clearly characterised and extremely connected to the brand’s DNA in all categories. The most important items of the collection will be in denim and jackets. The fil rouge of the a/w 15 collection is something really innovative dedicated to sport and active fashion. Denim will represent about one third of the collection. The focus will be on slim, regular slim and skinny fits. Prices will be in line with our competitors. — TB: Who is the target consumer? MP: We address a target consumer aged between 18 and 35 who certainly has denim at the centre of his wardrobe, but also wants to always look fashionable and innovative. — TB: Is Energie going up against the likes of Diesel and Replay? MP: Yes, as we feel that there is a significant gap in the market at this price and product positioning. In order to be competitive in this market the ability to connect with the end consumer and establish a strong relationship with him is crucial. We are also aiming to strengthen Energie’s brand awareness among the public. Our core offer will be priced under £100, as this is where we see the most potential. We believe regular-slim and slim fits will be the most popular in the market. — TB: What are the core strengths of the Energie brand? MP: Among Energie’s points of strength are product innovation and the brand recognition,

rooted in denim. Energie has been able to build strong associations between the brand and affiliations with masculinity, bikers, art and rock. The brand has created product that reflects these areas, and our imagery is in line with this. They are strong reference points for the Energie brand. — TB: UK men are notoriously brand loyal when it comes to denim – how do you intend to get them to try Energie? MP: We have appointed a PR and marketing firm in UK called Fabric PR, whose brief is to connect with trade as well as consumers. We are keen on working on projects that introduce our fit and style to the consumer at a level which will encourage them to try something new. The opening of our new concept retail store in London will also raise the brand’s profile and provide strong press opportunities. — TB: What happened to the original creative director of the Energie brand and who is in the role now? MP: Wicky Hassan was the founder and creative director of Sixty Group. He passed away in December 2011. The new creative director, appointed in spring 2013, is Alessandro Viganò, who had worked at Armani, VF Group and Dolce & Gabbana. — TB: How many Energie and Miss Sixty stores are there globally? MP: As of now, there are around 20 directly owned stores, including both Energie and Miss Sixty, mostly in Italy and the UK. Ten more stores, managed under franchising contracts, are located across Eastern Europe and the Middle East. — TB: Are there any plans to seek retail franchise partners in the UK going forward? MP: That would be the second step of our strategy that firstly envisages the relaunch of the brands in the UK and the opening of new flagship stores for both the Energie and Miss Sixty brands. —

“The brand has created product that reflects these areas, and our imagery is in line with this. They are strong reference points for the Energie brand”

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FEBRUARY 2015 | PRODUCT NEWS | 27

P R O D U C T

FROM PARIS TO LONDON Founded in 2014, designer Christopher Brogden unveiled his label, CSB London, at London Collections: Men earlier last month to a welcomed audience. Following a decade of working for some of the most recognisable brands from London, Paris and New York, with experience varying from mainline runway collections to sportswear and diffusion lines, Brogden turned his hand to creating something of his very own. Inspiration for his debut collection came from the eccentric Flaneurs in 18th-century Paris who used to walk their tortoises around the boulevards to slow down the pace of life, with prints throughout the collection drawing influence from this. Outerwear is also key to the collection, with highlights including a bonded wool and neoprene trench coat, wool and cashmere single and double breasted coats, as well as striped leather macs bonded to jersey. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

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RADAR Spotlighting style

COMPLETING THE LOOK British accessory label Fred Bennett extends its offer further for the new season, with the launch of its jewellery gift set. The stylish jewellery case features a selection of designs in stainless steel (wrist-wear, necklaces, cufflinks etc). Not only a smart way to present and store pieces from the new range, the durable case also doubles up as a travel case, ensuring all jewellery essentials are safe and organised. —

BAW LONDON ESTABLISHED: 2014 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Garments are black and white and feature minimalist design to reflect the company ethos. — HISTORY: After establishing a desire to live an uncomplicated life, co-founders Bipan Ahuja and Anoo Rehncy set up BAW London with the aim of creating a brand focused around simplicity. Co-founders Bipan Ahuja and Anoo Rehncy both left careers in investment banking to set up Black and White London (BAW London) at the end 2014. Driven by a desire to live in an uncomplicated, straightforward world, the pair decided to create a brand that would reflect this way of life. Thus a distinct minimalist style is used throughout the brand’s collection to champion its ethos. The brand asserts itself as heavily concept-driven, and is keen to focus collations around both design and ethos. Ahuja says, “The concept allows us to have a sustainable, limitless product offering. We want to be the world’s specialist lifestyle portal for everything black and white.” The brand’s main collection features T-shirts and sweatshirts with personality slogans that have been given a dictionary definition twist. All collections are designed in-house and are, of course, only designed in black and white. Other collections include graphic plays on the brand’s distinguishable black circle, white circle logo. Variations of this design include king and queen playing cards. Another popular line is the Origami collection, a minimalist interpretation of animal motifs. Wholesale prices are available on request. —

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FEBRUARY 2015 | PRODUCT NEWS | 29

PRODUCT NEWS Inside menswear BEST FOOT FORWARD British label Weekend Offender continues to expand its footwear offer, partnering for the second season with leading fashion footwear distribution company 33 Joints. Offering a comprehensive collection for a/w 15, the range blends classic footwear silhouettes with casual elements found at the core of the label, including branded lining, hidden pockets, hiking laces and branded upper leathers (as seen here on the Wade). Moving away from obvious footwear trends, Weekend Offer creates timeless wardrobe options, designed to work effortlessly with each seasonal apparel collection it presents. —

SNAP BACK INTO ACTION Streetwear label Cayler & Sons was launched in 2002 and quickly became one of the key players in the headwear game. Premium quality and innovative graphics are key characteristics of the label and, following its success so far, it has now added beanies, backpacks, wallets, socks and apparel to its offering. However, snapbacks are Cayler & Sons’ DNA, offering two collections every year, with the current collection heavily inspired by the hip-hop movement and street fashion trends. — >>>

STYLE HIGHLIGHT

ELEVENTH DIMENSION Taking inspiration from an eclectic mix of Mad Max and outerspace this season, Eleven Paris presents a collection where the leather jacket sits at the very core. Elbow pads, reinforced and patched shoulders create the look of a motorcross rider and a NASA astronaut. Other key outerwear pieces include the modular parka in high-tech textiles, and the wool jacket finished with a cosmonaut’s hood. —

BRISTON WATCHES French watch brand Briston presents its Clubmaster Collection for s/s 15 – a beautifully crafted 18 model set, made from some of the finest materials from Europe, with Swiss watch-making expertise, and a touch of preppy sport chic from the UK. Currently stocked in UK shops such as Harvey Nichols, Liberty, End and, most recently, Selfridges, the brand is looking to increase its wholesale account base nationwide. —

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RADAR Spotlighting style

LIGHTNING BOLT STRIKES AGAIN

WOOLMARK PRESENTS: THE WHITE BRIEFS NICK WOOSTER ESTABLISHED: 2014 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Natural, renewable and trans-seasonal garments that all feature 100 per cent Australian Merino wool. — HISTORY: The Merino wool collection is a result of a collaboration between Nick Wooster, The Woolmark Company and The White Briefs. In collaboration with The Woolmark Company and Swedish apparel brand The White Briefs, fashion influencer Nick Wooster has produced a Merino wool capsule collection. The White Briefs Merino wool collection is made of 100 per cent Merino wool and was unveiled at last month’s edition of Pitti Uomo in Florence, Italy. The premium merino wool collection uses the world’s softest woollen fibre from Australia. The collection makes full use of the versatile natural properties and benefits of Merino wool, featuring pieces that are both comfortable and maintain a sophisticated appearance. Garment pieces include coats, gym shorts, briefs and robes. Available in a rich colour palette of dark grey, black, navy and olive, garments are flexible and can be worn inside or outside thanks to its trans-seasonal properties. “I discovered The White Briefs when I was working on a special project curating the best brands from around the world,” says Woolster. “I fell in love with Peter Simonsson’s attention to detail, styling and quality. He has the best eye for packaging and great taste in colour and fabric.” —

Lightning Bolt’s a/w 15 collection is divided into three categories, and is inspired by the elements of nature. The collection marks a turning point for the brand as is focuses further on function, fabrication and technical materials. Garments feature over-built seams, welded zippers and waterproof materials, and often promote abstract geometric patterns and refined silhouettes in-line with the label’s contemporary branding. Items are heavily layered with cascading hemlines feature on garments built for multipurpose and all weathers. Layers are utilised to keep looks interesting and relevant. Overall, garments carry a mix of classic and utilitarian detail with stand-out pieces including brushed plaids, felted wool over shirts, and jacquard knitwear. —

IN BRIEF PERFORMANCE REVIEW G-Lab draws on its expertise in motorcycle clothing this season, with performance fabrics of premium quality to ensure protection in all-weather scenarios. A collection highlight is the brands three-layer fabric, which is 100 per cent waterproof, windproof and breathable. The brand uses dry soil and spill repellent Teflon finish, as well as bonded 3m Scotchlite reflective strips for enhanced visibility.

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FEBRUARY 2015 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 32

GUIDE LONDON £26 020 7481 1111

CAMEL ACTIVE £20 0161 234 0999

1 LIKE NO OTHER £52 020 7637 7650

DIGEL MOVE FROM £24 01543 473702

SCOTCH & SODA £34.60 020 3137 3901

PRETTY GREEN £30 07903 255298

ANTONY MORATO £54.60 020 7739 8560

BLOOMING BLUES Floral prints and motifs are anything but delicate this season and, while tropical flower prints are still visible for s/s 15, it’s the return of ditsy blooms across shirting and polo shirts that really dominates this trend. Stick to blue tones to integrate into shoppers’ wardrobes seamlessly. — Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

PENFIELD PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7720 5050

BARBOUR INTERNATIONAL £33.35 0800 009 988

DOUBLE TWO FROM £15.99 01924 375651

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FEBRUARY 2015 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 34

EDWIN £92 020 7278 4494 LIGHTNING BOLT £54 0035 1964866112

WESC £36 01271 865600

BOLD CHOICE Statement outerwear is prevalent throughout s/s 15’s offer, with bright block colours rising to prominence next to detailed camouflage and tropical prints. Stepping away from monochromes and subtle palette choices, the coat has been targeted by the colour revolution. BJORN BORG £45 — 020 7637 1395

NIXON £30.50 0808 234 7003

LUKE ROPER 1977 £50 01869 366580

ELEMENT £28 0033 558730059

PUFFA £34 07824 882115

CHAMPION PRICE ON REQUEST 020 3747 9530

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

HENRI LLOYD £80 020 7253 2983

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FEBRUARY 2015 | PITTI UOMO | 36

FRESH FINDS IN FLORENCE q

RICHARD JAMES Would you believe it, but a first ever outing for Richard James at Pitti – showing on the top floor of the main building, the Padiglione Centrale. So well known for his tailoring, but not necessarily for luxury sportswear and outerwear as was the case here. “We’re putting ourselves in the window to expose ourselves to a few new stores,” says commercial manager Olok Banerjee. “And to show that we do a lot more than tailoring. Being on Savile Row, that’s a given, so we wanted to show more of what people don’t expect from us.” Richard James was established in 1992, so Pitti has certainly been a long time coming, but growing the wholesale side is now a major focus. With product that looks this good, that should happen very smoothly. The outerwear in particular is very strong, and key pieces include a dogtooth double-breasted boucle overcoat, a herringbone military trenchcoat, and a tweed labour jacket with quilted lining in an eye-catching colour. —

THE BROOKLYN CIRCUS

KNICKERBOCKER MFG CO

A great label from Brooklyn, started up in 2008 and owned by Ouigi Theodore, the man behind the Freedom Hall section at Liberty Fairs in New York and Las Vegas. He also has two shops in Brooklyn and one in San Francisco. It’s pure Americana, all made in the US, but delivered with a point of difference, such as a biker jacket with wool body but leather sleeves – mixing varsity with biker, if you like. It’s inspired by vintage from the 20s up to the 60s, with great sweatshirts and shirts featuring the B letter for Brooklyn, as does a very tasty all-wool dressier style of varsity jacket. The varsity jackets are made by the famous Golden Bear factory that’s been making them since the 30s. The leather jackets are made in the same factory in Brooklyn that has produced for the likes of Schott and Avirex, so the quality is bang on. Distribution in the UK and Europe is handled by The Clear Agency and, at the moment, The Brooklyn Circus is only carried by Harrods in the UK. —

Flushing Avenue in New York is the base for Andrew Livingston’s Knickerbocker Manufacturing Company, launched off the back of a successful Kickstarter campaign in 2012. That raised the money to take over a 60-year-old factory on the border of Brooklyn and Queens that had previously been run by two generations of a family called Watman. After getting a couple of decent clients, and some money in the bank, Livingston decided to make his own products, too. “I got the deal of a lifetime to take over the 8,000 sq ft factory,” says Livingston. Products started with hats, but the brand experimented with clothing for a/w 14. But a/w 15 is the first real push for wholesale, and the label is looking for UK and European representation. Featured in the line are tubular-knit Henley tops, work shirts, chore jackets, sports coats, blanket lined waistcoats and penny collar shirts in 50s-style woollen blend slub fabric. —

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FEBRUARY 2015 | PITTI UOMO | 37

The latest Pitti Uomo gave us some nice surprises, with the excellent Made in USA area courtesy of the Freedom Hall at Liberty Fairs an outstanding addition. Elsewhere, emerging Korean brands stood out, as did established British names showing at Pitti for the first time – or, perhaps, with a new string to their bow. Tom Bottomley walked the show and picked some gems. —

SPECTATOR

SANDERS

An emerging Korean brand that’s been around for five years, but as yet does not have any customers outside of Korea. It surely will soon, and at Pitti it was apparently UK buyers who loved the product the most. It’s very well executed and, on first sight, you’d probably think it was a brilliant Japanese take on vintage US military pieces, especially the super-lush leather sheepskin flying coat. Fits are modern, and detailing is spot on. The fabrics are from Japan, and although most of the manufacturing is done in Korea, some is out of Italy – such as the trousers, and the knitwear is produced in Canada. Prices, therefore, are high, but probably marginally sit below a Japanese equivalent. The owner of the brand has a store in Korea, called the Never Green Store, which sells Spectator alongside other Korean labels. So he knows a thing or two about what works at retail, too. —

Showing its Military collection – all made in England but available now at wholesale for the first time outside of Japan. Sanders’ export sales manager, Simon Tennant, says, “We made classic styles for the British army since World War I. That only ceased to be around 10 years ago. At the same time, the Japanese agent came to town, knocked on the door, and he wanted us to make the military styles again for the Japanese market. We made the last more “long nose” to give it a fashion edge.” The brand has been making them again for six years, and they believe the time is right to start wholesaling them globally. They certainly look the real deal. Shoes and boots built to last in great leathers, with single Dainite soles so you get more flexibility. There are around 15 different styles, so it really is a collection within a collection. —

BASTONG Another Korean brand that’s really put some serious effort into product, found in the Touch! B area – like Spectator. Established in 2011, and with its own factory in Seoul, but mainly using British fabrics and Italian wools. There’s a Standard line, which is non-seasonal, featuring British Millerain waxed cotton jackets. All the jackets seem good value for money, and great quality with plenty of attention to detail. The diamond quilted goose down jacket from the a/w 15 collection, features a cord-lined collar and detachable raccoon fur collar, and there are some tasty Harris Tweed gilets. The latest edition to the offer is Donegal Tweed knitwear with a soft handle and jersey lined. So far there’s just one stockist in the UK, and that’s John Simons in London. Interest is growing, but so far Bastong, aside from its home market, mainly sells to stores in Germany, France, Italy, the US and Japan. A UK agent is currently being sought. —

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STREET STYLE SNAPPING As the usual flurry of style-setters made themselves visible in the grounds of Fortezza da Basso, MWB was on hand to capture the sartorial mavens of Pitti Uomo. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

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FEBRUARY 2015 | REVIEW | LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN | 42

COLLECTIONS FROM THE CAPITAL Last month saw the return of the bi-annual London Collections: Men event. Rebecca Jackson looks at the a/w 15 highlights from some of the key players in British and international design. —

Shearling featured strongly on jackets, and was seen predominately on outerwear linings. A smattering of shearling on collars and pockets combined with leather formed a classic combination at John Long. Pringle of Scotland went for a subtle use of shearling, a look that’s wearable for formal occasions and able to be paired with tailoring. Meanwhile, Coach and Topshop opted for heavier coverings in classic shapes, using opposing colours to create contrast. Burberry Prorsum, however, created the ultimate statement, pairing shearling with cobalt blue on the same tonal jacket. —

BURBERRY PRORSUM

JAMES LONG

COACH

PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND

TOPMAN

SHEARLING JACKETS

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

GIEVES & HAWKES

JOHN SMEDLEY

PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND

Roll necks are set to make a comeback this season. The catwalks featured roll necks from chunky knits to fine material versions that make an ideal replacement for the classic shirt-and-tie combo. Colour-block versions in a thin knit featured on the Agi & Sam runway, providing the trend with a fresh update away from its classic form. Meanwhile, fine-knit options were paired with tailoring at Alexander McQueen, Gieves & Hawkes and John Smedley. At Pringle of Scotland, layering played a large part in the overall look of the trend. —

AGI & SAM

ROLL NECKS

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FEBRUARY 2015 | REVIEW | LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN | 43

TIGER OF SWEDEN

HENTSCH MAN

CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

The popular shade of blue returned for another season, and featured prominently across the a/w 15 collections. From all-over coverings seen on tailoring at Hentsch Man and Alexander McQueen to a splash of colour spotted on outerwear at Christopher Raeburn and Christopher Shannon, the statement shade proved itself to be a dominant choice for a/w 15. Whether worn layered or on its own, the versatile hue worked well dressed up or down, instantly transforming a basic outfit into statement piece, as seen throughout the London event. —

CHRISTOPHER SHANNON

COBALT BLUE

Usually stripes are more commonly associated with s/s than a/w, but the catwalks proved the trend has been given a winter update. Stripes through outerwear garments could be found at Baartmans & Siegel, while tailoring embraced the trend and featured it in dark colours for a more formal appearance at Tiger of Sweden. At YMC, stripes created a bold statement, featuring on boxy cut shirts and were contested with light colours. Sibling and Casely Hayford, meanwhile, used stripes to create striking colour combinations, proving that the look is not just for the bright days of summer. —

BAARTMANS & SIEGEL

SIBLING

CASELY HAYFORD

TIGER OF SWEDEN

YMC

STRIPES

OLIVER SPENCER

BERTHOLD

SANKUANZ

YMC

Slim fits, fine materials and streamlined cuts all contributed to next season’s luxe jogger. Illustrating that the trend is not just confined to loungewear and for the exclusive use of the young, joggers were paired with formal tailoring and took on an ultra-smart look at the likes of YMC and Berthold – though the trend was still used to achieve the classic off duty look at Oliver Spencer, Sankuanz and Christopher Shannon. It’s clear a/w 15 will see the jogger taken to new innovative heights. —

CHRISTOPHER SHANNON

LUXE JOGGERS

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FEBRUARY 2015 | PROFILE | TIMOTHY EVEREST | 45

EVEREST GETS CASUAL Autumn/winter 2015 sees the launch of the first Timothy Everest “tailored casual” ready-to-wear collection, comprising 25 crafted pieces to mark the brand’s 25th anniversary. Though this will be more than simply an anniversary line, especially with former Superdry man Theo Karpathios joining as CEO to drive the Timothy Everest brand to the next level, writes Tom Bottomley. —

Timothy Everest is, of course, renowned as a bespoke and made-to-measure tailoring business, though Everest has indeed also been well known to partake in several collaborations over the years. That’s something he enjoys, and adds a touch of spice to his more creative side. During such collaborations, Brooks England and Hancock being a couple of note to mention, there have been some fantastic outerwear and more casual pieces, but he’s never done it purely under his name before. That is, until now, with a whole new collection that launched at Pitti Uomo. Amazingly it was the first time Timothy Everest has shown under his own name at Pitti in the brand’s 25-year history. It was his last collaboration, ironically to bring tailoring to the casualwear force that is Superdry – which also propelled Timothy Everest to a completely difference audience – that has spurred the move to do his first own casualwear line under the Timothy Everest brand name. And it’s not just soft tailoring we’re talking about, but proper technical parkas, including one in a camo British Millerain fabric and another in a Harris Tweed. Japanese fabrics feature strongly throughout the line, and there’s even tapered selvedge jeans. There are also hooded macs, a casual “worker” suit, sports and bomber jackets and even a more tailored Ventile version of the classic M-65 field jacket – often reproduced, but maybe not with such thought and precision to the cut, fit and cloth. Those being the operative words in Everest’s more usual world of bespoke tailoring, though with the field jacket wholesaling at £220, prices are quite removed from that world. While working with Superdry, Everest

formed a bond with one of Superdry’s three founders, Theo Karpathios, whom he worked with to help make the Superdry + Timothy Everest collections come to fruition, the last of which will be sold in-store this spring/summer. Karpathios left Superdry over two years ago and, seeing the massive potential to make Timothy Everest a more powerful premium British brand, joined as CEO last November. Developments have gathered apace to bring this new casualwear line to the fore, something that will again widen the appeal of the Timothy Everest brand, particular to Japanese and US buyers. The UK is also still very important, and the right independents to work with are now being sought, as well as initial talks with the usual suspects such as Mr Porter and Selfridges. Timothy Everest says, “It’s a great opportunity for us. A lot of the guys in creative businesses don’t really want or need to have a suit, but they like the essence and provenance of tailoring. So a lot of things that we’ve started to make for other people, we’ve decided to make for ourselves. It’s everyday clothing.” There’s also a big focus on really iconic menswear pieces. He continues, “People still wear what have become iconic pieces, so it was a question of how we could put a tailoring eye to them, with those sort of details. If we want to sell more suits, we need to reach out to people through casualwear. In terms of the designs, I’m not into replicating things, but I am very much inspired by the past. Though these pieces are very much for the ‘now.’” It’s been a long time coming, as Everest has been hinting at doing a casualwear line under his own name, probably since not long after the days of the Daks E1 collaboration line he did, which

now seems an age away. Says Everest, “I’ve been very slow to listen to my own advice. I’ve been paid to go and do it for other people, but not do it for myself. I’ve now become a client of my own business, so to speak.” A specialist in Chris Carden-Jones, the founder of streetwear brand Addict, has been brought in for his outerwear expertise. “He’s really enjoyed it, because there’s fabrics he can’t usually use because of the price points,” says Everest. In terms of Karpathios joining the business as CEO, Everest says, “He was looking to do something more premium, which is actually his background.” Karpathios himself believes the potential is big. He says, “I really believe there is an area in the ready-to-wear business that the Timothy Everest name should be doing very well. In a very short space of time we’ve put together this amazing range. Timothy and Chris come from two different worlds, but the fusion between them has created something special. We have a five-year plan, where we would like to see the Timothy Everest ready-to-wear brand expand and supply say the top 100 doors in the world.” Other plans to grow the business and raise the brand’s profile are afoot, as brand director Gary Bott says, “There are three sides to the Timothy Everest brand for the UK market now – with bespoke, made-to-measure and readyto wear casualwear. However, there is a formal ready-to-wear collection, too – currently existing under licence in Japan – called Timothy Everest London, with 22 shop-in-shops. And the plan is to open a flagship store in Shoreditch this year where we will present that collection as well.” It seems a lot’s cooking at Everest’s HQ once again, and maybe it’s about time it’s all about him.

UNDERWEAR IS OUR PASSION www.jockeyinternational.com

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FEBRUARY 2015 | MODA | 47

M O D A

TIMBERLAND

A U T U M N / W I N T E R 1 5 - 1 7 N E C

2 0 1 5

F E B R U A R Y

B I R M I N G H A M

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FEBRUARY 2015 | PEOPLE | 48

QUESTION TIME MWB’s Victoria Jackson caught up with some of the key names exhibiting at Moda Gent this season, discussing business over the last 12 months, developments in their wholesale strategy and what buyers can expect in terms of product the a/w 15 buying season. —

TYLER & TYLER RICHARD TYLER, MANAGING DIRECTOR, TYLER & TYLER Victoria Jackson: You’re now in your seventh year since inception, what new developments can we expect for a/w 15? Richard Tyler: For the new season my brother Jonathan (the other Tyler behind the brand) and I have designed two new precisionengineered premium cufflink collections – Tyler & Tyler Capsule and Tyler & Tyler Signature. Capsule has been inspired by the amazing industrial heritage of Birmingham and the pivotal role our city played in the Industrial Revolution. Each cufflink design has been named after Birmingham’s greatest iconic engineers – Boulton, Watt, Murdoch, Baskerville and Chamberlain. Signature takes its inspiration from Victorian Anthropology books, British wildlife and sport. — VJ: Looking back over the last year, what challenges have you overcome? RT: Since our launch in 2008 we have seen growth year-on-year, with last season proving to be our strongest to date. Although our brand reputation is constantly growing, the main challenge we face particularly in the menswear market is that buyers do remain somewhat “safe”, only offering brands that they have been stocking for years – they are often not willing to try relatively new brands such as ours. Another challenge we face is getting buyers to recognise the fact that we are not just a brand/ design house like the vast majority of our contemporaries. We are designers, engineers and British manufacturers. You’d be surprised at the looks of disbelief I get when I tell people our design studio sits directly above our Birmingham factory. — VJ: What are you looking to achieve in terms of wholesale strategy from showing at Moda this season? RT: A large number of our current retailers are based in the lifestyle and gift market, so we are really looking to grow our menswear retailer base. We’re hoping, obviously, that Moda will help us achieve this. Many of our contemporaries impose large minimum-order values on their stockists, but we have no minimum order quantity or minimum spend across the whole collection. We also pride ourselves on offering excellent customer service – a retailer can call us before midday with an order and the goods will be with them the next day. —

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GLOVERALL MARK SMITH, SALES AND MARKETING DIRECTOR, GLOVERALL

PETER SCOTT MIKE PIGOTT, GROUP HEAD OF SALES AND MARKETING, PETER SCOTT Victoria Jackson: Is Peter Scott making any changes moving into the new season? Mike Pigott: The brand is effectively relaunching with a new three-tire collection strategy across both men’s and women’s product. The Classic range will offer a fantastic stock support including a new tailored silhouette to complement the current regular fit for men. We’ve also created a new line for men and women called Peter Scott Legacy, which is aimed at the contemporary customer (aged 22-40). The fit reflects this, as do both the qualities of the yarns used, the branding elements and the unique packaging, which celebrates the life and interest and fantastic generosity of the man himself – Peter Scott. The top-tier collection is not for everyone. The Peter Scott 1878 range is aimed at the more luxury customer and is dominated by the use of top-quality cashmere in cool colours with a fantastic attention to detail within the garments – all topped with an iconic Arran knit retailing at £650. — VJ: Which doors are you looking to open? MP: The new collections mean we have the ability to extend our distribution but remain geographically sensitive to established stockists of the Classic range. We hope to open a good number of new doors for a/w 15, and have recruited three new members to the sales team to help us achieve this. All the product continues to be exclusively made in our Hawick factory in the Scottish Borders; something I don’t think has been leveraged to the trade and consumer nearly enough. A simple change on all the labels and packaging to Made in Scotland will hopefully mean they will be left in no doubt as to the quality and heritage they are buying into, not forgetting supporting local British economy. — VJ: In terms of product, what can buyers expect for a/w 15? MP: While the stock service offers a good mix of classic darks and brights, the collection tends to focus on knit quality and design, with more neutral tones of cool greys, creamy antique whites and with rich shades of blues – essential to our menswear collection. —

Victoria Jackson: This season sees you unveil Gloverall’s brand new 51 collection. What can buyers expect from the range? Mark Smith: The 51 line is inspired by archive images from the early days of Grand Prix racing in the 50s, where we have images of drivers like Stirling Moss and Tony Brooks sporting their Duffles on and off the race track. The collection encompasses colours of black, navy, moss, tan and red. Key pieces are Car coats and Racing Montys fabricated in wools, bonded cotton, and waxed cottons, lightweight waded bomber jackets in Tweeds, waxed cottons and rain wind-proof polyester. Other highlights include our knitwear produced in England from British wool and luxury shirting, again made in England. — VJ: What are your key aims for the new season? MS: With the launch of the 51 collection, it is to offer a full range that encompasses non-outerwear and presents a complete offering. It’s an opportunity to move our customers, and consumers, on from just our Duffles and Reefers and introduce new styles, categories and fabrications that fit within everyday lifestyle. At Moda we’re targeting certain stores that fit within the brand profile. For example, with all our product Made in England, it will be the more premium level of retailer that visits the show. It provides us an opportunity to reach out to those stores who we don’t get to see at the international shows or our showroom. — VJ: What would you say has been your biggest challenge over the last 12 months? MS: As an international brand, milder winters have made things tougher all together, but fortunately with a strong business model we still saw growth in what has been a difficult economic climate in some countries. We have new markets developing and our Far East business continues to grow. We also strengthened our sales team in the UK – which has helped us work closer with our stockists, from which we saw encouraging results. —

GABICCI KAMLA PATEL, UK SALES MANAGER, GABICCI Victoria Jackson: How have the last 12 months been for the brand? Kamla Patel: Last season was generally quite tough, but I should imagine many brands will be saying the same. The weather was too warm for too long, which didn’t help in terms of our knitwear and outerwear sales. — VJ: A regular exhibitor at Moda, what are you looking to achieve at this edition of the show? KP: Our prime objectives are to open new accounts and showcase the brand in the best possible light. We can display additional colours and samples that the agents aren’t able to take out on the road, so it’s a great platform to showcase our collection as a whole. Historically, we open between eight and ten new accounts each show, so my target for this season remains at ten. In terms of doors we’re targeting, I’d say it’s specifically independent retailers and independent store groups. — VJ: And what can buyers expect from the a/w 15 collection? KP: Rich, deep tones will be prevalent throughout the collection. Designs refer back to our archives for inspiration using vertical colour-block panelling and tipping. On Vintage we are making more use of our traditional jersey fabric, which is cotton plated with polyester on the outside to give a crisp sharp look and added comfort. — >>>

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FEBRUARY 2015 | PEOPLE | 50

DOUGLAS & GRAHAME ANTON JENKINS, SALES DIRECTOR, DOUGLAS & GRAHAME

SKOPES SIMON COPE, MANAGING DIRECTOR, SKOPES Victoria Jackson: How has business fared over the last 12 months? Simon Cope: Last season was very successful for us, and we were lucky to not see any downturn due to the weather. The success or failure of any wholesale brand is ultimately who you partner with. If you chose the wrong retail shop that doesn’t drive your brand forward or loses their focus and does not trade strongly, then no matter how good the garments are, they may not sell or get the repeat sale.

“It’s like a real-life lookbook for the buyers – where they can feel and touch the garments, and for new accounts to discover the ethos of the brand”

VJ: In terms of wholesale strategy, what are you looking to achieve from Moda this season? SC: We’re constantly looking to expose the brand to a wider audience through the show and help the organisers attract more visitors – it’s like a real-life lookbook for the buyers – where they can feel and touch the garments, and for new accounts to discover the ethos of the brand. We feel part of the brand evolution is that at each show you should make slight improvements so that the customer experience is bettered each time he or she attends. We are very proud to be sponsoring the new Moda Breakfast Club initiative (visitors can collect a voucher at the Hall 6 entrance for a free coffee and pastry redeemable at the Gent’s plaza between 9am and 11am each morning of the show), which is a great idea to get buyers in earlier and in the right frame of mind. In terms of our overall strategy, we are looking to gain additional market share through brand exposure and heightened customer experience from all aspects of the company. — VJ: Which accounts are you targeting for a/w 15? SC: We sell to a wide range of accounts within the UK and Europe, both traditional and fashion-led stores in regular sizes as well as outsizers. To aid the retailer at point of sale, we invest in joint advertising locally for the individual store, in-store POS and, from time to time, shop fits within the store. We invest in the retailer, if the retailer invests in us, by buying our stock. —

Victoria Jackson: How has last season fared for the business? Anton Jenkins: A/w 14 was good for us. As we carry good stock in the season, we benefited from the fluctuations in the weather and erratic sales patterns – retailers were able to react to demands promptly and have delivery in two to three days. The only challenges we faced were getting the balance of the range spot on in the first place and keeping the right stocks available throughout the season. — Victoria Jackson: And what is your wholesale strategy this season? AJ: To continue the success of previous Moda shows – to be there for those regular retailers that know us and always see us at the show, and to be seen by those that don’t know some our brands yet. Our collections vary in profile so much – the brand portfolio includes sub-labels such as Douglas, Remus Uomo, Daniel Grahame, Drifter and Wellington – it would be hard to gauge a target in terms of how many doors we want to open but, suffice to say, the formula we have currently is working well and appointments are building nicely. — VJ: What can buyers expect from a/w 15? AJ: Across all our brands we are focusing on previous success and building on them – our policy of maintaining quality, adding detail and producing good, commercial products are our strength. Refining that, each of our brands have a nice balance between a variety of textures and depth of rich autumnal colours such as burgundy, mulberry, navy and grey, along with some innovative design details and fabrics used. —

TIMBERLAND ANDY HEWAT, COUNTRY MANAGER, UK & IRELAND Victoria Jackson: Timberland is set to make its debut at Moda this season. What is your wholesale strategy moving forward? Andy Hewat: We are very excited to be coming to Moda for the first time and to be showcasing our apparel collection at the show. We feel the time is right to start to work with key retailers on this compelling part of our business. Our strategy is to target key independent retailers in both the UK and Ireland – 2015 is all about working with our customer to keep the brand’s strength for the long-term. — VJ: What can you tell us about the a/w 15 collection? AH: Our key marketing story is called Black Forest and is an holistic collection across footwear, apparel and accessories. The range uses premium leather and materials, such as a collaboration with Harris Tweed on key pieces. — VJ: And how will this be supported at retail? AH: We have a strong marketing campaign to support all aspects of the brand in a/w 15. We are supporting the Black Forest collection in outdoor, cinema and magazine advertising. We will underpin this with a strong social-media campaign to talk about the product in a compelling manner. —

‘‘

A great shirt says something about the person wearing it. It expresses an attitude and a take on life. A truly great shirt is a positive attitude in itself. That’s the only kind of shirt I want to be in”

Carl Thompson

Hawkins & Shepherd www.hawkinsandshepherd.com Carl Thompson sales@pincollarshirts.co.uk +44 7957 604 906

barker-shoes.co.uk Facebook-Twitter-Instagram: BarkerShoesLtd

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FEBRUARY 2015 | MODA | 53

ONES TO WATCH MWB takes its pick of some of the key labels spanning contemporary to classic menswear exhibiting at Moda Gent this season. —

OLYMP STAND MD41

CAMEL ACTIVE STAND MB28

DOUBLE TWO STAND ME29

DIGEL STAND MD40

OLYMP This season Olymp offers a fusion of formal and activewear, with clean-cut minimalism brought to life with sophisticated cuts and detail. Focus is placed on yarns such as melanges and tweeds as well as new prints and quality buttons with colour graduations or burnt effects adding the finishing touch. Small collars, including rounded variations, also feature. CAMEL ACTIVE The “trial to balance” a/w 15 collection blurs the boundaries between opposing ideas such as old/new and light/dark. The focus is around simplicity, with morphing, gradients and tonal patchwork used as a central element in garments. Overall style is focused on the subtle details, with shades of indigo stealing the show. DOUBLE TWO Launching into Double Two’s Men’s Formal collection this season is the new Slim Fit range, offering a much closer-fitting garment. Slimmed down through the torso, across the back and through the sleeve, the tailored Slim Fit shirt is distinguished by new branding and is applied throughout the a/w 15 collection from “warm handle” country checks though to city shirts. DIGEL Luxurious materials and sophisticated cuts feature in Digel’s a/w 15 collection, allowing a stronger focus on material and design. Knitwear takes the collection spotlight, with tumbled fabrics emphasising an overall laid-back look. Meanwhile, throughout the collection, interweaving colours and neutrals achieve a subtle colour palette that reflects a Scandinavian theme. —

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MAC STAND MI25

FEBRUARY 2015 | MODA | 54

ALPHA INDUSTRIES STAND ML07

HAWKINS & SHEPHERD STAND MG04

BRAX STAND MB29

FALKE STAND MI19

ALPHA INDUSTRIES The a/w 15 collection reflects the normcore trend. Style and garment detail has been toned down from the loud prints and all-over covering of detail featured in previous collections. New styles of the brand’s classic MA-1 bomber jackets will feature, using new materials such as reflective nylon to update the trend. HAWKINS & SHEPHERD Fledging shirt label Hwakins & Shepherd is taking to the halls of Moda Gent for the first time, with a collection inspired by the classic glamour of the 20s, merged with a more contemporary feel. Designed with a fit-for-purpose collar, able to take a collar pin and put a tie on display while keeping its shape, each shirt features mother of pearl buttons, bold cuffs to sit well around the wrist and a discretely embroidered motif complete the picture. MAC Making its Moda debut is trouser specialist Mac, whose focus is on denim this season following strong a/w 14 denim sales. Slim silhouttes, grainy denim materials, used blue washes, authentic grey shades and Jog ’n’ Jeans, made of sweat denim, are all key. Other highlights include wool looks, corduroy and sportive slim chino cuts. BRAX Inspired by Northern Scandinavia, Brax’s a/w 15 look has been stripped back to reveal a collection focused around simplicity. Fabrics play an important role in creating basic structures and homogenous clothing. Different fabrics and light are used to create sophisticated contrasts, while muted tones of grey and blue emphasise the overall collection vibe. FALKE The brand’s a/w 15 themes are united by a harmonious colour palette. For a “business look”, the City theme features minimalist patterns with small colour accents including jacquards. The Casual theme includes colour gradients and boot socks, either as tweed or finely ribbed styles, while the Sport Spirit theme focuses on sneaker socks, including dotted designs and hoop socks in neon. —

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FEBRUARY 2015 | MODA | 55

LUKE STAND ML06

MCGREGOR STAND MB39

CARL GROSS STAND MA20

CASA MODA STAND MC28

DENTS STAND MF01

LUKE Making its debut in the newest development of Moda Gent – The Loft, which showcases a series of fast-fashion labels with immediate delivery – Luke presents its a/w 15 offering. Split across four categories, buyers can expect to see a monochrome palette in the Luke Black collection, a series of technical fabrications in the Luke TechUnique line, Made in the UK denim options in the Luke Denim range and finally an extended offer of sweats, jackets and footwear in the Luke Sport collection. MCGREGOR Another new signing to the a/w 15 line-up at Moda Gent, iconic American lifestyle label McGregor is looking to replicate its success across the European market and put it in place in the UK. Defined by two collections – Distinction and Sportswear – quality is at the forefront of the brand’s offer. CARL GROSS A/w 15 sees the jersey jacket versus formalwear. Jersey jackets include waffle textures, Donegal and tweed looks. Contrasting fabrics also feature, as do patch pockets, open-edge finishes on lapels and pocket trims. In sport-urban jackets, highlights include brushed wool, modified patterns, denim look herringbone and chenille fabrics, with waistcoats rounding off the portfolio. CASAMODA Inspired by nature and the Canadian Rocky Mountains, Casamoda’s a/w 15 collection is characterised by a sporty look, innovation and attention to detail. Within the shirt collection, plain styles, print patterns and newly developed flannel shirts with print and chequered designs are key. In knitwear, various qualities, shapes and effects feature. Colours include blue, grey and yellow. DENTS Classic accessory label Dents returns to Moda Gent with its comprehensive collection of gloves, belts and leather goods, among other key categories. Highlights of the a/w 15 collection include tweed and leather panel driving gloves, tartan wool scarves and Après Ski inspired fine wool hats. —

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FEBRUARY 2015 | MODA | 56

MODA FOOTWEAR Moda Footwear welcomes a host of new and returning names this season, presenting a comprehensive overview of men’s shoe trends. — q

BARBOUR

HELLY HANSEN

Barbour expands its footwear range for autumn, offering two distinct collections inspired by its country lifestyle heritage and motorbiking culture. Biker boots are key within the men’s range, alongside rugged boots and welted brogues in high-shine finishes. Stand V1 —

Making its Moda debut, Helly Hansen unveils a range of performance footwear that pays tribute to the label’s Norwegian heritage. Drawing inspiration from effortless, Scandinavian style, the range comprises contemporary shapes with performance features such as breathable mesh uppers, removable footbeds and grip outsoles. Stand T1 —

SOREL

AIGLE

Canadian label Sorel has evolved from its roots as an outdoor label to a fashion-focused performance brand, and arrives as a Moda debutante with a directional range of men’s and women’s footwear. This season sees the label present its iconic styles alongside a range of new classics, all of which bear the brand’s hallmarks of warmth and protection. Stand U1 —

French footwear label Aigle presents a comprehensive collection for autumn, diversifying away from its roots as a rubber boot label. Established in 1853, the brand revolutionised footwear in the 19th century and maintains its commitment to traditional manufacture to this day. Stand S4 —

BUNKER FOOTWEAR q

CHATHAM

LOAKE Loake unveils several new designs this autumn, revealing four smart but progressive styles in polished leather. Chelsea boots, Derby brogues and two Oxford silhouettes form the main shapes, while all designs feature the brand’s signature Goodyear welted soles. Stand T3 —

Combining outdoor performance footwear with contemporary city style, Chatham returns to Moda Footwear with an extensive new collection of autumn styles. Chelsea boots and classic brogues are key, while walking boots in premium leathers and suedes also feature for men. Stand S9 —

New to Moda, Bunker Footwear arrives at the show with a range of casual premium shoes targeting the urban lifestyle sector. The Spanish label was established by the Alcocel family in 1997, and builds upon almost 20 years of heritage with its combination of traditional craftsmanship and revolutionary design. Stand S1 —

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FEBRUARY 2015 | MODA | 58

MODA SELECT Moda Select brings some new additions to the fore this season, with established names, brands proud of their British manufacturing roots and essential men’s accessories all in the mix. —

PEREGRINE

KNIGHTSBRIDGE

FARAH 1920

Peregrine’s a/w 15 collection is fronted by a limited-edition Titan Jacket. For the first time, the Hainsworth Titan fabric has been used in a fashion garment, woven in Yorkshire for the modern day firefighter. It has a patented construction with a flame-retardant outer shell, and Hainsworth Melton wool lines the hood. Men’s wovens have also been introduced for the first time in the form of shirting and trousers. This has been a natural progression for the brand, growing out of the great British knitwear and outerwear it produces with such passion. Key points for the new season include chunky shawl-neck cardigans, waffle crew-neck knits, a quilted bomber jacket with contrast knitted sleeves, zip-neck diamond pattern knits and classic Aran jumpers. There’s also the “funky jumper”, a mix of different coloured wools that originally came about from piecing different cuts and colours from the factory floor together to make one jumper. Apparently the Japanese liked it so much that it was introduced into the collection, and now there’s a different version of it in the main collection each season. They say things happen for a reason. —

A neckwear specialist influenced by Britain in the 60s, neckerchiefs and cravats are receiving added focus from Knightsbridge for 2015. Darren Farrell, founder and managing director, Farrell, says, “We trawl through classic British images from the 60s era, design our own artworks based on these – adding our own twist, and then source the fabrics globally. We use very few mills for manufacturing in limited-edition quantities. Our expertise offers “vintage” men’s neckwear that has been perfectly cut, stitched, labelled and pressed with care to maintain shape for many years.” For the new season, there are slim silk printed “aviator” scarves and pocket squares, slim Tweed scarves, slim silk Mod ties, paisley designs, geometrics, houndstooth, polka dots and Donegal fabrics. Knightsbridge’s bow ties are also in demand, and wholesale prices across the collection range from £8 to £18, with retail prices pitched at £36-£56. The new-season stock service is bound to stir interest from buyers realising the importance of strong accessories at Moda Select. —

Under the working strapline of Sports Union, Farah 1920’s a/w 15 line takes its direction from the thriving streets of London, or more the people on them. Fabrics are light yet strong, warm but breathable, practical and sartorial. Sports Union fuses sportswear with tailoring. Traditional and cutting-edge technologies combine, creating the perfect balance between sporting innovation and old skool. Outerwear takes its cues from contemporary classics and a pared-down aesthetic, and there is emphasis on technical details. Knitwear has texture and pattern, placing an emphasis on sporty silhouettes including the polo and panelled crew neck. Wovens again have a sporty emphasis, and include a raglan sleeved shirt, and jersey focuses on traditional silhouettes, again raglan sleeves feature. Cut and sew, double-face fabrics and various “nep” techniques raise the bar to provide more of a premium feel. And the pleated, tailored trouser, a key trend last season gaining momentum for a/w 15, is another highlight. Trousers of course being what made Farah famous in the UK in the first place. Great to see the brand back in the Select area once more. —

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FEBRUARY 2015 | MODA | 59

1 LIKE NO OTHER

TYLER & TYLER

DUCK AND COVER

It’s hard to believe this label that started producing out of an old shirting factory in Northern Ireland in 2002 is in its 13th year. Taken over by BMB Clothing in 2006, adding much needed clout to the business, 1 Like No Other now uses Italian mills for fabrics and produces out of Portugal, and it’s not all just shirts these days either, as over the last couple of years jackets and coats have been added as you might expect from BMB. New for a/w 15 is an expanded jacket collection featuring printed velvet and a flying jacket with other unique prints. There’s also a double-breasted coat with a contrast waterproof panel. Jackets wholesale from £105, and coats from £115. Meanwhile, while there are 40 different options in the signature shirt range (printed) and 24 options in the formal collections. The brand currently has 80 UK accounts, including the likes of Jules B, Psyche, Jonathan Trumbell, Landmark and Lizard, which it’s looking to add to for a/w 15 as the collection grows, as does the brand, in stature. —

The accessories brand will be launching two premium cufflink collections for a/w 15 at Moda – Capsule and Signature. Based in Birmingham, where the family business has been manufacturing since 1908, the brothers behind the brand, Richard and Jonathan Tyler, take a hands-on approach to the design, production and manufacturing of their collections. The Capsule line has been designed to celebrate Birmingham’s heritage. Long known as “the city of a thousand trades”, Birmingham played a pivotal role in the Industrial Revolution and, following in this tradition, Capsule is a range of precision-engineered cufflinks. The designs have been named after Birmingham’s greatest iconic engineers – Boulton, Watt, Murdoch, Baskerville and Chamberlain. Each cufflink has been produced using a combination of state-of-the-art technology and traditional techniques including hand finishing. Produced from aircraft-grade aluminium, and coated with a hard-wearing high-tech protective finish, the cufflinks are strong and hard-wearing yet feather-light. The Signature line is made up of more traditional die-stamped and turned part hand-enamelled cufflinks. Aside from these lines, Tyler & Tyler will also be showing its range of belts, socks, bow ties, ties and leather accessories at Moda Select. —

Moda Select always throws up the odd surprise when it comes to what brands that choose to show, and Duck and Cover may well fall into that category this time around. “Modernist sportswear” dominates the brand’s a/w 15 looks, with its emphasis on minimalist 90s-derived casual clothing. “Hero” styles include the four-in-one jacket, a clean-lined three-quarter-length rainproof style featuring a concealed hood. That piece also includes a detachable and reversible bomber jacket in quilted tech nylon, hence the four-in-one name. Elsewhere, a catwalk-inspired neoprene story features a funnel-neck, half-zip hiking smock, with an articulated-seamed sleeve design, as well as a hooded option with an asymmetric zip-through chest pocket. It also sounds very technical. Two blazer options include a four-pocket tailored field jacket and a cleaner diamond-quilted option in soft cotton flannel. Textured nautical-inspired cable knits, a variety of checked shirts, striped T-shirts, polo shirts with padded and ribbed shoulders, engineered jogging pants and contrast panel knits lend their support to the Clean Sports trend story, which the brand seems to have well and truly covered. —

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FEBRUARY 2015 | MODA | PROMOTION | 60

WHAT’S ON AT MODA Discover what Moda has to offer this season as brands join together with trend inspiration, expert business advice and networking events. Don’t miss out. Here’s our essential guide to what’s on. —

NEW THIS SEASON

CATWALK THEATRE HALL 20

Making its Moda debut is The Loft, a unique zone within Moda Gent reserved for trend-led, fast fashion labels showcasing the versatility of mainstream fashion. Brands include Warrior Clothing, Bjorn Börg, Gabicci Vintage, Garcia, Luke and Alpha Industries. —

BE2B

STYLEPILOT Get an expert insight into the men’s footwear and clothing trends on the catwalk with Stefan Maurel, CEO of StylePilot. StylePilot is the leading online resource for menswear consumers to discover the latest looks, preview new-season styles and advice around their body type. —

Adding even more business inspiration to Moda, the new BE2B Hub will bring together leading e-commerce technologies, retail services and instore product providers in one stand-out area, making it easier than ever to find all the business know-how and tools you need to enhance your store offer. Take advantage of the seminar programme, which will see a new wave of industry professionals offering their expert opinion and knowledge centred on the retail sector. —

FAB RETAIL CLINIC The Fashion Association of Britain, the specialist fashion division of the British Independent Retailers Association, will be on hand in Moda Gent, giving practical business advice. Take advantage of this free opportunity to access experts on a one-toone basis on stands MA03 and Z17. —

BACK TO BEECHES & SUNDAY DRINKS PARTIES Join your peers to celebrate your successful buying trip and toast to a new season of business with both the Sunday drinks reception starting from 6pm in the NEC grounds and a premium barbecue at the Beeches Bar & Grill on Monday. Everyone is welcome to the Sunday night reception, but tickets are selling fast for the Beeches barbecue – to secure yours please contact nicole.yates@moda-uk.co.uk or call +44 (0)1484 846069 —

CATWALKS The ever-popular catwalk shows will return this season, running throughout the day for the duration of the exhibition. Runways provide visitors the ideal place to explore new brand offerings and find the ultimate inspiration, delivering unprecedented access to next season’s collections. —

Sunday 15 February 10.00 – 10.30 Urban & Contemporary catwalk 10.45 – 11.15 Marketing & PR panel 11.30 – 12.00 Tailoring & Lifestyle catwalk 13.00 – 13.30 Footwear & Accessories catwalk 14.00 – 14.30 Urban & Contemporary catwalk 14.45 – 15.15 E-commerce panel 15.45 – 16.15 Tailoring & Lifestyle catwalk 17.00 – 17.30 Footwear & Accessories catwalk 17.30 – 18.00 DMU History in the making competition presentation 18.00 – 18.30 Urban & Contemporary catwalk & drinks Monday 16 February 10.00 – 10.30 Tailoring & Lifestyle catwalk 11.30 – 12.00 Urban & Contemporary catwalk 12.30 – 13.00 Footwear & Accessories catwalk 13.30 – 14.00 Tailoring & Lifestyle catwalk 14.15 – 14.45 FAB Retailer panel 15.15 – 15.45 StylePilot – live menswear trend presentation 16.00 – 16.30 Urban & Contemporary catwalk 17.00 – 17.30 Footwear & Accessories catwalk Tuesday 17 February 10.00 – 10.30 Urban & Contemporary catwalk 11.30 – 12.00 Footwear panel 12.15 – 12.45 Tailoring & Lifestyle 14.30 – 15.00 Footwear & Accessories catwalk

BE2B HUB Sunday 15 February 11.00 – 11.30 Top to Toe: Stock management 12.15 – 12.45 DownYourHighStreet: The online marketplace 13.30 – 14.00 Jim Jordan: Business growth 14.00 – 14.30 Jonny Ross: Blogging 15.15 – 15.45 FAB: An idea a minute 16.30 – 17.00 INTO: The social trends affecting retail 17.30 – 18.00 Superia Commerce: Website solutions — Monday 16 February 10.45 – 11.15 Shopa: Social selling 12.00 – 12.30 Jenni Arksey: Spotting brand DNA 13.00 – 13.30 Dennis Reid: Strategies for increasing profit 13.30 – 14.00 FAB: Retail services hotseat 14.15 – 14.45 Martin O’Toole: Making the most of marketing 15.00 – 15.30 Dan Bosomworth: Digital marketing 15.30 – 16.00 Tony Scott: Stock management 16.30 – 17.00 Diligentcommerce: Design and e-commerce — Tuesday 17 February 10.45 – 11.15 Jon Tromans: Writing for online and SEO 12.45 – 13.15 FAB: An idea a minute

VISIT MODA-UK.CO.UK

Quality

Luxury

Heritage

Made in Scotland

Stand MG19 T: 01450 363100 E: sales@hawickknitwear.com www.hawickknitwear.com

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FEBRUARY 2015 | PROFILE | SELFRIDGES | 62

SELFRIDGES PUTS PRODUCT FIRST Fifteen months into the job at Selfridges, and Terry Betts – director of menswear buying and merchandising – has been making his mark on the famous department store’s menswear offer with a dedicated new buying team he put together, and a fresh focus on strong product, as Tom Bottomley discovers from the former Mr Porter and Harvey Nichols man. —

It’s not all about big designer names and shopfits at Selfridges nowadays, though those areas are clearly still highly important to the business. Since Terry Betts came in to shake things up, there’s now a greater emphasis on stand-out product, new labels and a taste of something different to appeal to savvy domestic customers, as well as the department store’s large international customer base. “The opportunity for me is that you’ve got this amazing blank canvas right in the middle of Central London with incredible footfall and access to all of the key partners and brands in the world,” says Betts. “So for me the project was really to start talking about product. Less about

brands and big shop-fits, and more about being a launch partner looking at small designers, new designers and the kind of stuff that was maybe previously only found in Japan or US vintage stores. We wanted to bring that through and put it into the big arena that is Selfridges.” Betts says he was fortunate enough to be able to put a whole new team together as well. And what he wanted to do was create a team with a different viewpoint to other department stores. So his team is made up of people who have only ever worked online, or have only worked in womenswear previously, or have only ever worked in New York and so on. “So it’s a real mix and a fresh cocktail of ideas, opinions and

eyes for different product. It’s quite unique for a London department store, and it means we can come at it from a different angle.” He’s also just overseen a big project in the designer room, where they’ve doubled the size, and opened personal shopping. “We now have two different areas, or ‘mats’ as we call them,” he says. “The perimeter shop-in-shops feature the likes of the big players such as Yves Saint Laurent, Rick Owens, Dries Van Noten and Givenchy, so it’s the area in the middle that we call ‘mats’. They’re our fixtures, there are no shop fits there – the brands don’t personalise their areas, it’s really just about product and our edit.” The first “mat” features the bigger brands

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such as Versace, Neil Barratt, Marni and Jil Sander, and on the new second mat it’s a little bit more avant garde, creative and more unknown – almost somewhere where you go to discover brands, or see brands that are hard to find. “So we’ve brought in brands such as 45rpm from Japan, and Blackmeans – a Japanese punk-inspired label that we’ve done a pop-up instillation with. It does great leather jackets, and it’s the first time it’s been available to buy it in the UK. We’ve also brought in Beams Plus, and we’re the only department store in the world to be carrying it.” On the same “mat”, you will also find Junya Watanabe and Comme des Garçons. So for a department store it feels really specialist, and in that mix they’ve made sure they showcase some key London Collections: Men designers, such as Sibling, Casely-Hayford and J.W. Anderson. So it’s an experimental mat for a big department store. Since the closure of the A Bathing Ape London store, Selfridges has also now become the only real “destination” for that brand in the UK. Following very successful pop-up instillation, it’s now become a permanent fixture. “We did a personalisation project with the brand at Christmas, whereby you could come in and customise your own Bathing Ape T-shirt,” says Betts. “So it’s about taking those labels to a new level and saying, right, we’re going to put you somewhere with great footfall and big exposure, so how can we push it further? That’s what we can provide, a big space with great domestic and international customers.” Denim, too, is performing well, with Edwin a key brand in that area, as is Mastercraft Union, which only launched in-store last season. “It’s the ex PRPS team, which works solely on leather

FEBRUARY 2015 | PROFILE | SELFRIDGES | 63

jackets and denim. Autumn/winter 2014 was the first season with the brand, and we’re just about to do an instillation with it.” Another denim label he’s got his eye on is Hawksmill Denim Co from ex Nudie and Urban Outfitters’ Fraser Trewick. “It looks amazing,” he says. A fine compliment, indeed, from a man who seriously knows his stuff. Betts is also keen for Selfridges to be a real destination for lads into their brands and products to be able to come to and find what they’re looking for. “That’s one of the most important things for me, because I was born and brought up in London, and I did the whole jumping on a tube to come into town to shop – it was part of my weekend as a consumer. We’re proud of our international customer base, but the majority of our business is domestic and this year most of our growth has come from domestic customers.” He believes there’s a real appetite from those younger men to be more experimental, and he sees it as Selfridges job to offer the best of what’s out there. “Of course, there are brands that they recognise, and it’s important they are in the mix because then there is the trust,” he says. “But when we’ve done different things in our designer area, or in denim or tailoring, those brands have hit the floor running because they trust in the umbrella of Selfridges, but it’s also real product for guys.” The advent of online means customers are more informed than ever, and Betts says they will hunt good product down, even if they have to buy it from a website on the West Coast of America, or from Japan or wherever. So they should be able to go to Selfridges and find it. “As a London, Manchester and Birmingham representation, even online, you should be able to buy those products from us. We’re big enough and we’ve got the platform and exposure to do that.” On another note, the footwear area, refurbished two years ago and making it the largest of its kind in the world has, according to Betts, become the main footwear destination in London. “I love it that you can come in and buy John Lobb, Tricker’s and Grenson, but equally we’ve got big business with Balenciaga sneakers,

and Nike is massive for us. The average price for the more luxury end of the sneaker business, which would also include Valentino, Gucci and Maison Martin Margiela, is probably around the £400 mark. And we sell an incredible amount. It’s a business all on its own, and Balenciaga, for example, is totally driven by our domestic guys.” Add to that, the new personal shopping area, which was launched last summer, with the design feel of a cool loft apartment, is a perfect space for those chaps to get the full run-down on all that is new on the men’s floor. “It’s got a younger feel to it, which it should have for us,” says Betts. “We didn’t want it to appear stuffy.” Even all the books they have on shelves in there are for sale, and there’s artwork from people like Damien Hirst. “We hold breakfasts and consultations in there, and there’s no minimum spend,” he says. “There’s nothing intimidating about it. It’s open for style advice, even if you just want to book a slot and tour round the new brands and products on the floor.” They’ve also had a lot of sports and A-list film stars making the most of the new facility, and no doubt spending some serious money. “We have had people coming in and buying a whole seasonal wardrobe in one go, and three of everything, one for the London home, one for Miami and one for the South of France. We love those guys!” Generally, though, Betts says it’s just what he calls “an open space” for men into their decent clobber. “It’s had an incredible impact,” he says. An impact matched by Betts’ passion, and drive to make Selfridges a leading menswear destination in the heart of the capital, as well as in Manchester and Birmingham.

Translating directly from the catwalk to the pavement, a/w 15 presents a modern twist on classic 70s style across mainstream menswear. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

SWINGING BACK TO THE SEVENTIES

John Smedley x Private White coat price on request 01629 534471 Barbour roll-neck jumper £40 0800 009 988 Magee trousers (part of a suit) £146.50 028 2564 6211 Bracelet stylist’s own Watch stylist’s own —

Seidensticker shirt £17.60 0049 521306590 Gabicci trousers £30 01442 233700 Braces stylist’s own Hat stylist’s own Ring stylist’s own —

Skopes Campbell suit jacket £39.50 0113 240 2211 Skopes Campbell trousers £17 0113 240 2211 Roamers & Seekers wool-mix waistcoat £33 07966 297993 Simon Carter shoes £52 020 8683 4475 T-shirt stylist’s own Jewellery stylist’s own Watch stylist’s own Socks stylist’s own —

Magee suit jacket (part of a three-piece suit) £179.50 028 2564 6211 Alan Paine jumper price on request 01623 522570 —

Merc shirt £22 020 7495 8538 Roamers & Seekers wool-mix jacket (not worn) £63 07966 297993 Merc trousers £24 020 7495 8538 Knightsbridge Neckwear velvet scarf £17 01765 640576 Jewellery stylist’s own —

Peregrine jacket price on request 0117 973 9645 John Smedley roll neck £50.40 01629 534471 Merc trousers £24 020 7495 8538 Loake shoes price on request 01536 415411 Jewellery stylist’s own —

Hacket jacket price on request 020 7408 4000 Dobson shirt £83 07551 585756 Barbour trousers £40 0800 009 988 Jewellery stylist’s own —

Bertoni jacket price on request 020 3432 6387 Eterna shirt price on request 028 9032 7770 Skopes James trousers £17 0113 240 2211 Jewellery stylist’s own —

Hackett jacket price on request 020 7408 4000 Hackett waistcoat price on request 020 7408 4000 Seidensticker shirt £18.50 0049 521306590 Jewellery stylist’s own —

Gloverall coat price on request 07500 220880 Maddox Street jumper £32 01442 233700 Ring stylist’s own —

Villain jacket price on request 020 7379 4488 Villain trousers price on request 020 7379 4488 John Smedley £50.40 01629 534471 Aigle Chelsea boots £54.20 01608 813862 Glasses stylist’s own —

Credits: Photographs: Chris Harvey www.chrisharveyphoto.com Make-up artist: Rebecca Lockwood www.rebeccalockwood.co.uk Model: Sam Elliott www.nemesisagency.co.uk Stylist: Victoria Jackson — Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale —

See us at Moda Select, Stand SE18 and at Moda Gent, Stand MA01

T: 01765 640576 E: darren@knightsbridgeneckwear.co.uk www.knightsbridgeneckwear.co.uk

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FEBRUARY 2015 | EVENTS | BERLIN | 78

A-Z OF BERLIN The trade show landscape in Berlin this season was a very different picture to what it once was, with one-time giant Bread & Butter scaling down to a 40-brand show, while the likes of Seek and Premium expanding into brand new exhibition spaces. MWB visited the capital, collating a comprehensive run-down from A to Z. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

A is for Alpha Industries

Making its debut at Berlin Arena, Alpha Industries showed a selected edit of its signature outerwear, including the shearling aviator bomber.

B is for Back to the Streets

Determined to continue this season, Bread & Butter founder Karl-Heinz Muller welcomed 40 brands to his headquarters in Berlin for new show Back to the Streets.

D is for Denim

Coated denim was one of the most prominent trends in Berlin, with leather finishes spotted at the likes of Blend and Timezone.

C is for Casa Moda celebrations

Olymp UK agent Geoff Pascoe, Moda event director Jamie Harden, independent retailer David Aitchison and UK agent for Olymp and Baileys Roy Pow joined guests at Panorama to help Casa Moda celebrate its 25th anniversary.

E E is for Elvine

Elvine looked to Iceland for its a/w 15 collection, with sweats featuring photographic prints of mountain landscapes and built-in eye shields into outerwear designed for snowy climates.

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FEBRUARY 2015 | EVENTS | BERLIN | 79

F is for Full-shoe styles from Birkenstock

Famous for its slip-on footwear designs, Birkenstock placed the focus on its full-shoe offer this season at Panorama with a series of desert boots, moccasins and sports-inspired pumps.

G is for Graffiti

Known as the city of graffiti, this kind of art work can be seen throughout Berlin – including this impressive wall mural, which can be found outside the gates of Premium.

H is for Hendricks

Official sponsor of Seek, premium Gin label Hendricks set up camp inside the show with a concept area designed around the history of the drink.

j I is for Innovative spaces

J is for Jog-jeans

Premium expanded its offering into Luckenwalder Street to offer a series of pop-up concept stores for retailers to relax and enjoy time away from busy buying schedules.

L L is for Live music

K is for Karl Lagerfeld

Karl Lagerfeld showcased its a/w 15 offering at Premium this season, with a strong focus on slim tailoring and refined accessories such as the navy suede weekend bag.

m M is for MWB

MWB was available throughout the key shows in Berlin, including Panorama, Back to the Street, Seek and Premium.

Another key trend for the denim sector is the jog-jean, named for its ability to move in, without compromising on comfort. Brands utilising this included Mustang and Mac.

Entertainment came from live music throughout Panorama, including a three-piece group who played as buyers enjoyed champagne and canapés at the Desigual stand.

N N is for Neon

An aesthetic environment is vital to trade shows, and events such as Premium and Seek didn’t fail to excite with concept spaces and neon signage throughout.

O O is for Original Penguin

Moving from Bread & Butter to Seek, Original Penguin showcased its latest collection including its ditsy camo print jacket – a key print for the brand this a/w 15.

>>>

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FEBRUARY 2015 | EVENTS | BERLIN | 80

R Q

P is for Plant life

Greenery was visible throughout the shows, especially Seek and Panorama, who used shrubbery and cacti in juxtaposition with industrial elements.

Q is for Qwstion

Based in Switzerland, accessory label Qwstion was on hand to offer a selection of daypacks, backpacks and weekenders, all of which are crafted from organic cotton materials.

S is for Squarestreet

Squarestreet showcased two watch collections, Minuteman and Aluminum, which are 40mm in diameter, featuring Swiss movement, mineral glass and Italian leather strap.

T is for Timeless leather

Sandqvist returned to Seek this season with its strongest collection to date, featuring a series of handcrafted black leather unisex bags.

V is for Venue

For its latest edition, Seek moved to a brand new location – Berlin Arena – which saw the show welcome over 200 brands.

x X is for O’Neil X Pendleton

Collaborations were spotted throughout each of the shows, one of the strongest being the partnership with surf label O’Neil and American woollen mill brand Pendleton.

Y Y is for Yellow

Yellow was spotted throughout the shows, dominating outerwear styles at brands such as Lyle & Scott, Museum and Original Penguin.

R is for RVLT

RVLT toned down its colour palette this season, moving away from graphic prints and bold colours to a more simple monochrome capsule collection.

U is for Universal Works

Following on from its showcase at LC:M, Universal Works presented a selected edit of its key a/w 15 pieces in Berlin including this lightweight bomber jacket.

W is for Wood Bird

Making its debut in Berlin, Wood Bird was established in 2010 and is looking for select wholesale accounts within the UK market with its classic streetwear offer including logo tees and sweats.

Z is for ZZZZ

After two flights, three days and four exhibitions, all that was left for the MWB team to do was sleep.

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FEBRUARY 2015 | PEOPLE | 82

COLLECTIVE The people, the places, the products.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK THE PLOUGH, 21 HIGH STREET, HARBORNE, BIRMINGHAM

SIMON SAYS Elton John is quoted as saying, “Nothing I ever bought has brought me lasting happiness.” From a man who elevated extreme shopping to an art form to rank alongside sculpture, that’s quite an admission. — I was reminded of this pithy aphorism this week when a misfortune struck me. I left my umbrella in the back of a taxi. “So what?” I hear you cry. “Has he nothing more serious to fret about?” Bear with me, gentle reader. For this was no ordinary umbrella; it was a Brigg. Swaine, Adeney and Brigg have been making canes and umbrellas by Royal Appointment since the Roman times. Probably. Evidence has recently been unearthed at Hadrian’s wall that points to a high ranking official’s Brigg. I was fortunate to meet the team at Pitt L’Uomo in Florence some eight years ago, as we were neighbours for four days. I’ve always been interested in craftsmanship and tradition, and was fascinated by the history and quality of its products. As a pre-recession treat, the brand kindly let me purchase one of its finest umbrellas at wholesale. It was still £120, but rather more manageable than £350 at full retail. I couldn’t wait for it to rain. I’d unfurl my pride and joy, and laugh in the face of downpours, shrug off the fiercest storm. Here was a true piece of British engineering; fit for purpose with its one piece solid beech shaft and sturdy metal frame. So, unlike Elton, this waterproof old friend really did bring me happiness, and I hope it’s new owner will relish it as much as I did. However, to my delight, a few days later I bought a vintage Fox’s umbrella in a junk shop near home. This, too, is a beautiful piece of equipment. Dating from the 50s, it’s in perfect condition and is my new best friend. Better still it was just £5. In my own stores, we have recently begun having our own umbrellas made for us by James Ince of Shoreditch, a third-generation family firm. Not maybe in the Brigg league, but beautiful, and still £95. Sales have surpassed expectations. But appreciation of provenance, craft and quality is on the increase again. Customers are buying less but buying better, and want much more back story. We explain the history and quality, and point out that at just under £100 it’s a true investment piece. Just don’t leave it in a taxi... Simon Carter is the CEO of the eponymous brand and retail stores. —

Located in an idyllic suburb just outside Birmingham’s city centre, The Plough has been maintaining a fine balance of home-cooked hearty food and quirky interior design since 2003. — The eatery launched as an alternative venue to chains and high-end bars and restaurants on the market at the time, and has gone on to carve a reputation as such. Serving up food off a wide-ranging menu from burgers to artisan bread from local suppliers, The Plough has racked up an impressive array of awards and special mentions for its products through the years. Among the impressive accolades include The Times’ “Best 25 places to have Sunday lunch 2014” and The Independent’s “The 50 best coffee shops”. The independent pub is also the winner of the 2011 Northern Design Awards, and it’s certainly unsurprising when looking at the décor. The décor is kept fresh through regular updates to the design and furniture selection, and is filled with unique, one-off pieces to reflect the overall vibe. — PLAN B

MIKE PIGOTT, group head of sales and marketing, Peter Scott and Lochcarron of Scotland

“I’m a frustrated musician at heart, and had I not furrowed a path in menswear I would like to think that I would have continued my passion as a drummer. Aged 17, I started my first band, Teazer. We toured the working men’s clubs around the North East, performing cover versions of tracks by bands such as The Eagles and Thin Lizzy. The first set was all about impressing the crown with our music skills, which would be rudely interrupted by the traditional game of bingo. As I began writing more original music, I formed a second band called 2nd Debut. It was 1982 and we were touring the pub circuit with our own brand of pop-rock, inspired by bands like The Police. One night I spotted AC/DC frontman Brian Johnson in the crowd. After the gig he invited us back to his new recording studio in Newcastle, and he certainly knew how to throw a party!” —

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CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL LUKE POWELL OUT OF STEP (UK DISTRIBUTOR FOR BRANDS SUCH AS THE HUNDREDS, HUF AND BRIXTON) With most of my wardrobe consisting of plain tees and denim, I look to a good jacket and footwear to bring an outfit together. I tend to choose either technical pieces for durability and practicality, or classic silhouettes that never go out of fashion. — I love the look of traditional bomber jackets but the shorter cut was never to my taste. The Brixton Ace jacket was inspired by a vintage bomber style with a slightly longer cut, making it that little bit more wearable. That’s why it gets my vote. — My Public Label J-11 jacket is constructed from pin-striped Japanese cotton twill. This varsity jacket from The Hundreds’ lesser-known Public Label is as premium as they come. Tonal felt appliqué PL branding on the chest and selvedge detailing on the inside are great touches that are easily overlooked. — On the footwear side, the Huf Hr-1 is a hiking boot runner hybrid, and is one of my favourite pairs for the colder months. Sturdy hiking boot upper and rugged materials such as nubuck and wool make them perfect for winter conditions. It has a running shoe outsole with cushioned air bag and the Huf Stratus Foam midsole means the Hr-1 has the specs to match its techy appearance. — You can’t go wrong with a pair of Clarks Originals, and I love the Desert Trek’s quirky centre seam, embossed heel logo and iconic crepe soul. For a shoe that was first made in the 70s, this still looks bang on to this day, especially once they’ve seen a bit of wear and tear. The “old man” is also bound to approve. — Another hybrid style, the Ransom Alta Mid is one of the most comfortable pairs in my collection. The classic moccasin upper fits like a slipper, but the super-light Eva injection outsole ensures you won’t be slipping anywhere.

TOP TWEETS comehappy.leave.edgy @bricklanecoffee Everyone’s talking about your paranoia. Esquire Magazine @Esquiremag Are pleated pants ever OK to wear? ShortList Magazine @ShortList Autumn in January – Adidas Originals release the gorgeous Top Ten Hi in fox red. Stephen Fry @stephenfry Chem trails abounding this am. I’ve a mad theory that they’re caused by jets going about their legitimate business. But then I’m a lizard. Grey Fox @GreyFoxBlog We’ll see forties style wide-legged trousers (with turn-ups) on the high street soon. Mr Hat. @LaToucheUK I AM MR HAT! If you don’t like Hats I will change that!!! Anthony Menswear @AnthonyMenswear Meet Huw @FoxUmbrellas: the luckiest salesman in the world; constantly opening umbrellas indoors... Duncan Jones @ManMadeMoon I remember it like it was yesterday. When my dad said “It’s probably time I introduced you to Frank Zappa...” Josh Spero @joshspero Gah stop with the pen-not-mightier-thansword new wisdom. It is. It always will be. We may die but our words (and cartoons) will survive.

SOCIETY THE PARTIES AND EVENTS FROM IN AND AROUND THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY.

p MODELS CHARLOTTE WIGGINS, EVE DELF, SAM ROLLINSON AND MATILDA LOWTHER AT THE BELSTAFF A/W 15 PRESENTATION LAST MONTH.

p TINIE TEMPAH ATTENDS THE “HARVEY NICHOLS PRESENTS HACULLA X TRAPSTAR REDLINE” PRESENTATION AT LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN.

p DESIGNER AND REALITY TV STAR OLIVER PROUDLOCK AT THE LATEST EDITION OF SEEK, BERLIN, SHOWCASING HIS LABEL SERGE DENIMES.

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FEBRUARY 2015 | 87

THE BOTTOMLEY LINE MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

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LONDON WELCOMES OI POLLOI It’s been a long time coming but, being that particular about the product they sell, naturally they’re going to be picky about where they set up shop. Number 1 Marshall Street in Soho is the chosen location, with the opening pencilled in for the end of March, or thereabouts. Co-owner Steve Sanderson says, “I think it’s our natural home, really, in terms of the type of people around in the creative industries. A lot of our friends and other businesses we’ve been working with for a long time have operations around there, so there’s a bit of a community thing going on. It won’t feel unfamiliar.” Sanderson also points out that there’s no other multi-brand independent retailers nearby, aside from Another Shop, which he says doesn’t cross-over with Oi Polloi’s brand and product offering – with its solid reputation built from its Manchester shop and thriving online business. There’s little doubt the website sees a substantial number of shoppers from London and the South as it is. Now they will be able to taste the delights first hand without stepping on a train North. “I think our brand selection and product offering have been missing for a while in that area. So we’re going in to fill the gap,” says Sanderson, who promises him and Nigel (Lawson) will have something slightly different for the London shop, saying they have “a few tricks up their sleeves.” Intriguing indeed, with exclusives planned with brands such as Reebok and Levi’s. “We’ll also be stocking Sassafras from Japan, which I don’t think is available anywhere else in Europe right now.” In terms of running the shop, Steve says they will get “someone local,” but will be making regular visits to make sure all is ship shape, as well as alternating different staff from Manchester to go down to “keep the flavour” of what they do up North. Well that’s the teaser, watch this space for more when it opens in spring.

HENTSCH MAN PEEP SHOW RAISES EYEBROWS Hentsch Man quirkily rented a former sex shop on Soho’s Walkers Court, aka Sex Lane, for a preChristmas pop-up, and liked it so much it went

p HENTSCH MAN’S “PEEP SHOW” PRESENTATION

t OI POLLOI’S NEW SOHO STORE

back for more to presents its a/w 15 collection during London Collections: Men, with what it called a Peep Show. Alexia Hentsch says, “The show went really well. The idea behind doing it in a disused sex shop was that it’s quite attention grabbing and in line with the cheeky irreverence of Hentsch Man. We found the space in December and used it as a pop-up, and it was too good an opportunity to pass up for LC:M.” In terms of press and buyers, the collection and presentation was apparently well received, with attending buyers from the likes of Mr Porter, Bloomingdale’s and Harvey Nichols. Ladies who lunch in Harvey Nics may have coughed up their Pinot Grigio at the thought of it, and thankfully no men in dirty raincoats came in during the presentation, as they did when the shop was open thinking they could come in to watch a film or two. Hentsch Man has just signed on with Tomorrow showroom, with sales from its Paris and Milan showrooms. It’s a global showroom based out of Milan, and has brands such as Marni, Jonathan Saunders, Christopher Raeburn, White

Mountaineering and so on, so some interesting showroom adjacencies. “They also have an office in London,” says Alexia. “Our next step will be to open a London store for sure, though the location has not been defined yet.”

YOU JUST CAN’T GET THE STAFF The age-old expression keeps ringing true with conversations I’ve been having with brands looking to open shops, pop-ups or otherwise. If the brands don’t have the retail knowledge, a lot struggle to find the people they think most suitable to run it for them. Trust is a key factor, of course, but so is the product knowledge and demeanour of the staff to sell the clobber. It’s a shame there just aren’t more good people out there going into retail, often put off by pretty poor wages. Those who are good are surely worth their weight in gold, and should be rewarded accordingly. The old days of commission-based sales (on top of a basic wage, of course) used to work a treat to get my sales technique spot on.

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FEBRUARY 2015 | DIRECTORY | 88

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FEBRUARY 2015 | 90

LAST ORDERS WITH... OZWALD BOATENG British designer Ozwald Boateng, renowned for his trademark twist on classic British tailoring, speaks to MWB’s Victoria Jackson about utilising his skills in stocks and shares in Celebrity Trader – a monthly event that sees a series of famous faces trade on the stock market to try and raise as much money as possible for their chosen charity. — D/O/B: 08/02/67 Born: Muswell Hill, London Lives now: Mayfair Twitter: @Ozwald_Boateng Website: www.ozwaldboateng.co.uk

First of all, tell us how and why you got involved in Celebrity Trader? I opened trading at Nasdaq just over a year ago, and it was a great experience. I have never dabbled in trading stocks and shares but I thought it would be a great thing to do, especially for Celebrity Trader, which each month gives one famous face the challenge of trading in the financial markets in order to raise as much money as possible for their chosen charity. — And which charity have you chosen to trade for? I really wanted to support ClicSargent, which does phenomenal work with children and young people who are living with cancer. They provide emotional and financial support to help young people and their families through an incredibly difficult period in their lives. I have two children and understand that the support that ClicSargent offers to these young people and their families at a very difficult time can really make a huge difference. — You’ve dressed a variety of gents in your career, is there anyone you’d like to dress but haven’t

had the chance to? Prince William is someone that I would love to dress. — How would you define the Ozwald Boateng man? A well-travelled man that who his own language but is fluent in many. — Is there a particular designer, or era, that you draw influence from? Giorgio Armani really shook up the idea of formal menswear, and it had a massive impact on me at the beginning of my career. I grew up in London during the 60s, 70s and 80s, and obviously all the cultural references from this city have pretty much influenced every style movement of the past century. — At what age did you realise fashion was a path you wanted to take? Well my mother was a seamstress and she made me my first suit, but the decision to make it my career came a lot later while I was studying computer programming at college.

QUICK-FIRE QUESTIONS — Early bird or night owl? Early bird. — Favourite film? Interstellar – I only saw it recently, but it blew my mind. — Who is your mentor? My father. — The most important piece of clothing a man can own? A good suit. —

MODA NEC 15 - 17 FEB

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provenance, design & quality