MWB MAGAZINE AUGUST 2013

ISSUE 205 | AUGUST 2013 | £6.95 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

SELECTION PROCESS THE NAMES MAKING THE CUT AT THIS SEASON’S SELECT — FRESH OUT THE BOX TWENTY FIVE YEARS ON, STREETWEAR LABEL BOXFRESH RETURNS TO ITS ROOTS

AUGUST 2013 | CONTENTS | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 05

R E T A I L 12

Online Insider

14

Retail Insider

Advice, news and issues online The latest in-store news

16

The big e-commerce survey Menswear indies on their online businesses and development plans

19

Business sense Four leading experts tackle issues relevant to retailers right now

G E N T 26

Product news Rounding up the key stories this month

28

Read the small print

30

Sartorially slam dunkin’ the socialite pack

32

A shirt fire thing

35

An eye for supply

Printed apparel and accessories to get in store now Profiling London designer A Sauvage The rapid success of shirt label Ben Green Saks Fifth Avenue on its wholesale launch

M O D A

P R E V I E W

40

Lifestyle

42

Tailoring

44

Shirts

46

Trousers

48

Accessories

52

Footwear

54

Select

58

Moda Information

Bringing together some of the best names in casual menswear Spanning tradition to trend-driven tailoring for spring/summer 2014 Eight of the key names in shirting Chinos, cords and denims Essential extras and add-ons A comprehensive guide to the footwear labels to catch this season Showcasing the best in contemporary and urban apparel and footwear The who, the when and the what from this month’s show

D E N I M

&

62

Product news

64

Body poppin’

S T R E E T

What’s happening in denim and street Bright colours reign for a/w 13

66

25 years later Celebrating Boxfresh’s quarter of a century in style

68

Franklin’ speaking

70

Flip

72

Trending worldwide

Franklin & Marshall on driving forward its wholesale division Profiling some of the freshest names to hit the surf, skate and sports show this season The trends and key styles to emerge from Bread & Butter Berlin

R E G U L A R S 7 8 22

Comment News Interview

76 79 82

Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With…

Nick Tentis

Kevin Stone

Front cover

Eton 020 7495 7988 —

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AUGUST 2013 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 07

EDITOR

COMMENT

Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com — DEPuT Y

EDITOR

Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — CONTRIBuTORS Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — SuB

EDITOR

Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — DESIGNERS Michael Podger michael@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — SALES

MANAGER

Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — SuB SCRIPTIONS Lydia Bennett lydia.bennett@ite-exhibitions.com — HEAD

OF

MENSWEAR

Jamie Harden jamie@moda-uk.co.uk — PRODuCTION

DIRECTOR

Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — COMMERCIAL

DIRECTOR

Over the past few weeks I’ve been speaking to retailers to discover what issues are affecting their businesses.

A common denominator seems to be the need for a closer community spirit between retailers and local businesses.

—

Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — MARKETING

DIRECTOR

Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — MANAGING

DIRECTOR

Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com —

MWB is published 11 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2013 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved.

Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

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The high street has seen a number of high-profile casualties in recent weeks and, with a study by the Centre for Retail Research released last month predicting that 153 towns and cities could face losing 27,000 stores between them over the next five years, working together in the community could be where the solution lies.

Retailers, of course, have the right to be worried, but there are things they can do to help stop these potential figures becoming a reality. Last month, for example, saw the third annual edition of Independents’ Month, which was kickstarted with Independents Day on 4 July. Both initiatives saw shops up and down the country offering discounts, running competitions and putting on events to get customers through the door.

One man who is set to look at the power of community in terms of retail sales is Bill Grimsey, former CEO of Wickes, Big Food Group and Focus DIY. Grimsey will release his own review on the British high street this autumn, in light of, what some have deemed, the lacklustre results following the Portas Review and the hype surrounding it.

As Grimsey explains, the high street is a natural gathering place, and we need to redesign it to meet the changing needs of our society. With online and mobile shopping showing no signs of slowing down, and out-of-town shopping culture remaining a problem for independents, “the high street will no longer be just a place of commerce with tills ringing – it has to be a place for the whole community.”

For those of you attending Moda this month, this and many more issues affecting retailers will be discussed on stage during the Independent Futures debate on Monday 12 August. If you're looking for inspiration, ideas or even just an indie issue to relate to, make sure you take time out of your buying schedule to come along and have your say.

On that note, I look forward to seeing many of you at the show and, if there are any issues affecting your business that you would like to see covered in MWB, get in touch via email or tweet the team at @mwbmagazine.

Victoria Jackson Editor

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. RAS Publishing Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.

AUGUST 2013 | NEWS | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 08

N E W S

UK ECONOMIC GROWS BY 0 . 6 PER CEN T

JOHN SMEDLEY

HIGH-ST REET GIA N TS LEND SUPPORT TO U K M A N U FACT U R IN G Two of the biggest names on the high street have pledged their support to British manufacturing, offering an increased selection of goods designed, produced and manufactured in the uK. Department store John Lewis outlined its support last month by setting a two-year, 15 per cent growth target for all sales of goods that are made in the uK. Sales of uK-sourced products at John Lewis totalled £480m in 2012, which is an increase of nine per cent on the retailer’s 2011 baseline, with 10,500 products currently featuring the store’s Made in uK identifier – a small union flag symbol to highlight products made by British suppliers. The two-year growth target will be supported by the identifier; its aim is to further promote uK design and quality and allow customers to more easily identify uK-manufactured products.

Marks & Spencer, meanwhile, continues its support for uK manufacturing with the launch of its Best of British menswear collection for a/w 13, made entirely using British designers, fabrics and manufacturing, with critics deeming this collection one of the retailer’s best yet.

While the high street increases its backing for more Made in uK products, independent retailers have recognised the many benefits to stocking British brands.

Established in 2012, Littlejohn Boutique in Stratford-upon-Avon offers British and Irish labels only including John Smedley (pictured), Gloverall, Lavenham and Pantherella, and has experienced a positive response in its first year of trading.

“When you look at today’s market, there is a resurgence in the British fashion industry,” says Maria Petitjean, owner. “Many of the major high-street chains have launched British collections. Established clothing manufacturers are once again expanding, and new fashion companies are starting up all over the uK. “When developing the idea of Littlejohn, we were incredibly keen to support what we had here on British soil and, when the economy is as tough as it is, why would one go abroad when the quality and craftsmanship in the uK is second to none and we can offer support to one another. We intend to grow with this trend and build new business relationships with more and more successful brands right across the country who are all backing Britain.”

—

The uK economy grew by 0.6 per cent in the three months to June, according to the Office of National Statistics.

The latest figures mean that the economy has now recouped almost half of its 7.2 per cent contraction during the 2008-09 recession, with Chancellor George Osborne stating the figures “are better than forecast.”

Phil Orford, CEO, Forum of Private Business, meanwhile, feels the government and banks still have much to do. “There is no room for complacency, and we urge the government to address the issues that are making life difficult for small firms – the real drivers of the uK economy,” he says. “The government still has much to do when it comes to simplifying the tax system and, as a matter of urgency, needs to address the issue of spiralling business rates.”

—

CARE CHALLENGE AT TRACTS BIG NAMES IN FASHION Hugo Boss, Gucci and urban Outfitters are the latest to enter teams for the annual Prima Solutions Adventure Challenge on 28 September in aid of Care International. They will join over 30 other teams from across the fashion and retail sector to complete a marathon on foot, bike and canoe, this time in the scenic Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire.

“This is our third time taking part in the Prima Solutions Adventure Challenge,” says Anthony Carder, team leader for Hugo Boss. “It’s the most awesome event in the fashion industry calendar. It brings people together with the chance to team build and meet other people in the industry.”

Funds raised will support Care International’s poverty fighting work. The challenge will be followed by a well-earned dinner, awards and a party. To take part visit www.carechallenge.org.uk/primasolutions or call 020 7091 6111.

—

AUGUST 2013 | NEWS | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 09

IN BRIEF

CEN T RAL TRADE BECOMES BLU N DSTONE DISTRIBUTOR

FA SHION SVP A N D U K FT JOIN FORCES

Central Trade – the sole distributor of Birkenstock in the uK and Northern Ireland – has become the exclusive distributor of Tasmanian footwear label Blundstone.

Established in 1870, Blundstone is synonymous with its iconic elastic-sided boots, as well as offering casual boots for both men and women and heavy industrial footwear options.

The brand is also committed to policies around sustainable development and the focus on maximising the use of recycled and recyclable materials through its manufacturing and packaging, along with minimising the use of raw material, chemicals and fossil fuels.

—

IDEX, the organiser of Fashion SVP, the near-shore fashion sourcing event, and the uK Fashion & Textile Association (uKFT) are taking a combined approach to highlight the role of British fashion and garment manufacture. uKFT and the IDEX group will be working cooperatively in the run-up to the event at London’s Olympia on 22-24 September 2013 on show features and promotion. “uKFT is delighted to be able to lend our support to a show that connects retailers, wholesalers and sourcing companies with textile, garment and fabric manufacturers,” says John Miln, CEO of uKFT. “As a leading voice for the fashion and textile industry, we’re looking forward to having a presence at Fashion SVP this September to engage with our members who attend the show.”

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FA R R ELL EX PA N DS IN TO AU ST R A LIA N M A R K ET

GA LLERY WELCOMES NEW SIGNINGS

Farrell, the brand established by Robbie Williams and creative director Ben Dickens, is set to open in two David Jones stores, in Sydney and Melbourne, this month.

The label expects its “British aspirational handwriting and tongue-in-cheek sartorialism surrounding the collection” to receive a positive response from the Australian market, according to David Empson, managing director of Farrell.

Deborah Foreman, David Jones’ general manager for menswear, says, “We are delighted to welcome esteemed British label Farrell to David Jones’ leading assortment of international and Australian menswear brands.

“The quintessentially British collection will appeal to the fashion-aware Australian male who appreciates quality and clean tailored lines without overt embellishment, branding and fuss.”

—

Copenhagen trade exhibition Gallery is set to welcome a host of debut labels to its spring/summer 2014 edition this month.

Running on 8-10 August, the show will include labels including 7 For All Mankind, Damir Doma, Whyred, A.Friend by A.F. Vandevorst, Max.Tan, Etudes Studio and Numero 10 bags among many others.

This edition will also see the launch of two new concept spaces within Gallery, including a lounge area with Bang & Olufsen music and a French Connection cocktail bar, as well as a basketball area with an international sportswear brand.

Pre-registration is free of charge and will give buyers access to Gallery, Vision and CIFF, with free use of all trains from Southern Sweden to Copenhagen.

—

CFDA/VOGUE FASHION FUND FINALISTS REVEALED The 10 up-and-coming designers competing for the 2013 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund have been revealed, including Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne of Public School, who won the Swarovski Awards for Menswear at the 2013 CFDA Awards last month. Selected by a panel including US Vogue’s Anna Wintour, designer Diane Von Furstenberg and J Crew’s Jenna Lyons, the overall winner will be presented with a $300,000 cash prize. Alongside Chow and Osborne, designers in the line-up include Veronica Miele Beard and Veronica Swanson Beard of Veronica Beard, Todd Snyder, Misha Nonoo of Nonoo, Tim Coppens, Marc Alary of Marc Alary Jewelry, Juan Carlos Obando, Parabellum’s Commodore Jason Jones, Tome’s Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin, and Shimon and Ariel Ovadia of Ovadia & Sons.

— EMPLOYEE THEFT ON THE RISE A recent study into retail theft suggests that insider fraud is on the rise, accounting for 27 per cent of store loss across all retail sectors, while external theft is only marginally ahead, accounting for 30 per cent. The findings of the Volumatic Kount UK Retail Fraud Survey 2013, commissioned by analyst Retail Knowledge, which surveyed 100 of the UK’s top retailers, highlights the under-reported nature of theft by employees and reveals that insider shoplifting of merchandise is an increasing concern for retailers.

“Internal theft is hard to measure as it is something that many UK employers do not like to broadcast,” says MD of Retail Knowledge, Paul Bessant. “There may be cultural factors at work.

Preliminary findings of the new survey show retailers in North America to be much more upfront about employee theft; they generally put losses due to staff ahead of losses due to the public.”

— REGGIE YATES X BURTON COLLECTION LAUNCHES TV and radio presenter Reggie Yates has joined forces with menswear high-street retailer Burton to create a capsule collection of T-shirts and vests, featuring photographic prints from Yates’ own personal archive. The collection comprises eight designs, with retail prices ranging from £16 to £20, and is available to buy online through the Burton website.

— CHARLIE PEEL MAKES MOVE TO TK MAXX Well-regarded menswear buyer Charlie Peel has joined the team at TK Maxx, following 17 years at Colchester department store Williams & Griffin.

Peel will start his role in September and report to head menswear buyer Adrian Edwards.

Neither TK Maxx nor Williams & Griffin were available for comment.

—

AUGUST 2013 | NEWS | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 10

IN BRIEF

N ICOLE FARHI RESCUED FROM ADMINIST RAT ION

FA LK E A PPOIN TS N EW GROU P SALES MAN AGER

Fashion brand Nicole Farhi has been saved from administration, following a deal secured by Maxine Hargreaves-Adams, daughter of Matalan founder John Hargreaves.

The company was bought for an undisclosed sum after it became the latest retail victim of poor high-street sales earlier last month.

“We are extremely pleased to have secured the sale of Nicole Farhi to Maxine Hargreaves-Adams, preserving a well-known retail brand,” says Peter Saville, of administrator Zolfo Cooper.

The deal sees Hargreaves-Adams buy all six Nicole Farhi stores including its flagship branch in London’s Mayfair, as well as the brand’s online retail arm, saving 75 jobs in its retail network and 44 at its London headquarters.

—

Falke, the German legwear specialist, has appointed Jan van der Hagen to the role of group sales manager, a position that will see him take responsibility for the wholesale, retail and e-commerce sales channels in both domestic and international markets.

“We are delighted that with Jan van der Hagen, we were able to recruit a manager with international experience,” says managing parter Paul Falke. “With his experience and personality, he will drive the international expansion of our Falke and Burlington brands forward in the next few years.”

Van de Hagen had previously worked for luxury outdoor furniture company Dedon, which he remains a shareholder and member of the supervisory board alongside his activities for the Falke group.

—

OLY MP EXPERIENCES CON T INUED GROW TH

TRINIT Y LEEDS WELCOMES N EW N A M ES

German shirt label Olymp has achieved eight per cent growth in the first half of 2013 with development across all markets.

The brand’s expansion into knitwear was met with a positive response, with Olymp now offering shirts, polos, ties and knitted goods.

“We are pleased with the business trend for 2013 and, despite the current clothing crisis due to the weather, which has made things difficult for summer fashion, the demand for our products is growing steadily,” says Mark Bezner, owner and CEO of Olymp. “Mid-year turnover was at €95.4m, and thus around eight per cent up on the same period for last year. I am confident that we can maintain the present growth until the end of the year.”

—

New shopping destination Trinity Leeds is set to grow its portfolio further with the arrival of five new stores.

Adidas, Skechers, Carphone Warehouse, Tesco Metro and dedicated brew pub Leeds Tap will open units in the shopping centre over the coming weeks.

“Trinity Leeds promises to constantly offer visitors something new and, since opening in March, we have been working continuously to re-shape the city centre with the best possible mix of high-street, national and international brands,” says John Grimes, retail leasing director for Trinity Leeds.

“With such a unique position in the city centre, uniting the three busiest shopping streets in Leeds, big brands are still queuing up to join the line-up, allowing us to offer our shoppers the best possible leisure and shopping experience.”

—

CLICK & COLLECT SERVICES SET TO BE WORTH £4BN BY 2018 A new report from retail analyst Verdict estimates that Click & Collect purchases will grow by more than two thirds to be worth over £4bn by 2018, as consumers continue to place emphasis on convenience and the ability to get products quicker. However, while Click & Collect growth will be rapid, it will still only be worth around eight per cent of online sales in 2018, and just 1.2 per cent of total retail sales.

According to Verdict analyst Matthew Rubin, the growth of Click & Collect will be tempered by improvements to other fulfilment options.

“Homedelivery companies and pure play online retailers are monitoring the development of Click & Collect and are reacting accordingly,” says Rubin.

“They are looking to offer collection points at convenience stores and lockers, same-day delivery, narrower delivery time slots, as well as improved tracking and updates of estimated delivery times.”

— ASOS LAUNCHES INTO CHINESE E-COMMERCE MARKET Online fashion e-tailer Asos is to debut in the Chinese e-commerce market via a new partnership with Hybris – an e-commerce software and multichannel solution for online retailers. “Within the APAC region, China is recognised as the primary driver of growth and, as such, it’s a market in which we want to be a major player,” says Pete Marsden CIO at Asos. “However, it is also a market with unique characteristics and requirements. To address these, we needed a proven and robust omni-channel platform that can support our new e-commerce business and the rapid growth and high traffic numbers we’re expecting due to the size of the Chinese market.”

— YOURBRANDSPACE.COM SEES INTERNATIONAL INTEREST Online wholesale fashion hub Yourbrandspace.com has announced international buyers now count for 30 per cent of its membership. The free service, which was founded in 2011, is used by buyers from across Europe, the Middle East, Africa and the US, with featured brands benefiting from interest from markets they would have otherwise been unable to penetrate.

— HUT GROUP APPOINTS NEW MENSWEAR BUYER FOR COGGLES Ryan Knight, formerly of footwear label Sperry Top-sider, has been appointed head of menswear for Coggles. Hired by Hut Group, who recently acquired Coggles following its collapse into administration, Knight will report to the Hut Group’s head of buying, Lawrie Kemp. Following the closure of its bricks-and-mortar stores, Coggles will now operate as an online-only retailer.

—

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                    

AUGUST 2013 | ADVICE | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 12

ONLINE INSIdER Advice, news and issues online.

ADVICE: WhY 90% CuSTOMER SATISFACTION IS NOT gOOd ENOugh

NICk MCLEAN is the director of products at eCommera and is available through fieldworksmarketing.co.uk

Internet giant Amazon regularly scores top of customer satisfaction lists and has redefined the rules of retail.

There is no set way of measuring online customer experience, but most retailers and brands at least measure certain aspects to allow for continuous improvement. This should encompass the end-to-end experience from order to delivery, returns, customer service and quality assurance and so on.

— There are a number of reasons why retailers would seek to constantly improve this, like customer retention, word-of-mouth advertising, money saving on returns and so on, but critically how good is good enough? Ninety per cent satisfaction may seem like a good score, but in a numbers game like online retail it simply isn’t up to scratch. Indeed, the more often a customer orders from a retailer, the more likely they are to have a poor experience.

A more apposite observation is the fact that if 90 per cent of consumers receive a good experience, by their sixth purchase, around 50 per cent of shoppers will actually have had a bad experience. A poor experience can affect customers’ perception of your brand as well as their loyalty. They may advise friends and family against your brand. Indeed, we are all aware of the adage of positive and negative experiences and how many people we tell, but digital media has amplified this exponentially on both counts, and social media channels can cause problems to escalate quickly.

So, if you think 90 per cent customer satisfaction is a job well done, think again, because you need to be striving for those vital extra percentage points. To remedy this shortfall, it’s time to focus on delivery on promise, customer service and the returns experience.

—

NEWS

KATE BOSTOCK RESIGNS FROM ASOS Kate Bostock, the former executive director of product and trading at Asos, has resigned from her position with immediate effect, citing that the fashion e-tailer wasn’t the “right place” for her. Bostock, who joined Asos in January, previously held the position of head of clothing at Marks & Spencer.

Her departure was confirmed in a stock-market statement last month, with Bostock’s decision to resign from Asos the second high-profile board director departure this year for the company.

International director Jon Kamaluddin stepped down after nine years with the company in April.

Commenting on her departure, Bostock says, “Asos is a formidable business and I have great respect for the team I have been working with; they are right at the cutting edge of young online fashion. Sadly, I’ve concluded that Asos isn’t the right place for me. I will not regret the experience and I wish all at Asos continued success.”

WEB WATCh

WWW.FINdABRITIShTAILOR.COM Dedicated bespoke and made-to-measure tailoring site Find a British Tailor launched last month, designed as a portal to showcase the best in British tailoring talent. Each brand has its own exclusive profile, searchable by country, town or postcode, and includes names such as Archer Adams, Couch & Hoskins and up-andcoming designer of the moment Jon Lancaster of JLSA. An official launch party will take place on Friday 13 September to coincide with London Fashion Week.

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TAKES MENSWEAR DESIGN BOOHOO.COM IN-HOUSE Fast-fashion e-tailer Boohoo is now set to design its menswear label, BoohooMAN, in-house following two years of sourcing garments from external suppliers.

Boohoo.com, based in Manchester and London, was founded in 2006, and has gone on to experience substantial growth in the seven years since its inception.

With prices ranging from £12 to £50, the collection will comprise a complete wardrobe offer including outwear, denim, shirts and accessories.

urBAN // strEEt // dENim // lifE

// 11-13 August 2013 + NEC BirmiNghAm // // 16-18 fEBruAry 2014 + NEC BirmiNghAm // modA-uk.Co.uk/flip

AUGUST 2013 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 14

RETAIL INSIdER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry.

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VIEWPOINT dANIEL gREEN, Broadbridges, haywards heath and horsham, West Sussex

N ORTHER N THR EA DS BECOM ES FIRST UK STOCK IST OF R EPU BLIC Menswear independent Northern Threads in South Shields is to become the uK’s first exclusive stockist of Italian sportswear label Republic.

With the brand’s latest collection hitting shelves for autumn/winter 2013, parent company Erreá Sports approached Northern Threads’ co-founders Nigel Binnie and Phil Goodfellow, whose years of experience in retail made them the perfect choice to help launch the label into the uK market.

“After a trip to the company’s headquarters in Parma, Italy, to see the garments first hand, I knew straight away that it would a perfect fit for the store,” says Goodfellow. “We always want to remain at the forefront of the menswear industry by stocking innovative brands, and the option to be exclusive uK stockists of the Republic range from Erreá was a perfect opportunity.”

Conceived in 2009, Republic started life as a capsule collection inspired by the training kit of Parma FC, evolving over the past four years to become a cult streetwear label in its native Italy.

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IN BRIEF CARNABY STREET HOSTS FREE MUSIC FESTIVAL Last month’s Carnaby Sound festival featured live music, covering multiple musical genres that have been playing in the area over the last 10 decades, including jazz, blues, urban and rock.

Bands such as A*M*E, Kids in Glass Houses, James McCartney, Night Engine, Luminites and Last of the Troubadours were among the performers on the day. Carnaby is home to over 150 fashion brands including Gant Rugger, Filson, Ben Sherman, Lazy Oaf and Cheap Monday.

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DANIEL FOOTWEAR TURNS 20 Footwear mini chain Daniel is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year and, for the occasion, has overhauled its website to offer its customers a more lavish online experience. A slicker look and new features now form part of the e-commerce side, while carrier bags have also been updated with a shiny metallic finish sporting the proud emblem “Celebrating 20 years of excellence.” More anniversary activities are planned over the coming months.

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daniel green is the owner of Broadbridges, which has branches in haywards heath and horsham, West Sussex. he is a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB) and the IMC buying group.

We are half way through the year and our end-of-term report on trading reads, “There are signs of improvement. We are not back to the good old days, but it’s not dire either.”

Trade continues to be bitty with some good days and some bad days. Better weather always helps sales, but we have had some good performers across the spring and early summer despite the climate.

We have been having a good run on mixand-match suits, especially The Label at around £265 and Magee at around £310. I think our businessmen customers have been making do for the past few years, but now their old suits are looking tired, so they are coming in to make a replacement purchase. Casual windcheater-style jackets have been doing well from the likes of Rappson, Douglas and Brook Taverner at prices from £70 to £130. Gurteen’s sports jackets at around £175, blazers at £130 and cotton or wool mix trousers at £45-£65 have also been giving us great sell-throughs, as has Franco Ponti knitwear at around £50.

I have worked at Broadbridges, which was founded in 1934, for 30 years, and I have owned the business for the past five years, so I have a lot of experience in analysing customer attitudes. The success of Gurteen and Franco Ponti underlines that our customers are looking more than ever for good value-formoney clothes. As it says on our website, we offer the modern man old-fashioned courtesy and service. We do free trouser-shortening, for example, and people appreciate that saving.

Generally, I think that people are fed up with scrimping and they can be persuaded to buy, but they are definitely planning their purchases more carefully. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk —

AUGUST 2013 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 15

SHOPPED: gIuLIO how has your summer’s trading been?

It’s been a disaster by all accounts. There has been a mix-up really with good weather coming late and Sales starting early – we’ve not been able to sell the right product at the right time. At the time when you least need to be on Sale, you are on Sale. The problem is, you can’t hold out any more, especially with all the internet competition. People have got used to hanging on for the Sales now, too, especially in the summer season. Also, what’s the difference, for example, in buying a classic Paul Smith crew-neck T-shirt with a print on it in the Sale, and a new-season one at full gIuLIO CINquE, OWNER, GIULIO, price really?

CAMBRIDGE — Is the internet really affecting trading in your shop then?

Well, there are great things about the internet, but also the competition now is obviously not just local, or even national – it’s global. And that’s a different thing altogether, and to navigate is quite a challenge. You’re up against players who dictate the market place.

Also, I have to say, people are confident buying on the internet nowadays and, for bricks and mortar, it’s dangerous. On the other hand, we use online community Farfetch as our internet platform, and it’s a growth area for us. There are around 250 like-minded, cool boutiques from around the globe on there. It’s helping our business a lot. Farfetch markets the site, photographs and sells the product, and we pick, pack, ship and deal with the returns.

—

IN FOCuS: LIquOR STORE gREAT WESTERN ARCAdE, BIRMINghAM B2 5hu

OD’ S OPEN S N EW PR EM IU M FOCUSED STORE

ESTABLIShEd: 2012 — BRANdS STOCkEd: APC, UNIVERSAL WORKS, OLIVER SPENCER, EDWIN, PALACE, RED WING, WOOLRICH, NUDIE —

St Helens independent menswear retailer Od’s has opened the doors of its brand new shop in the heart of the city, 20 years after it launched its first store just 100 yards away. Measuring an impressive 6,000 sq ft over two floors, owner Chris O’Dea welcomed guests, friends and family to the official opening earlier last month. Housing names such as Marc Jacobs, Hugo Boss, Dior, Vivienne Westwood and McQ, the shop also features a striking shoe wall running across the back of the store.

—

IN BRIEF

It always feels good to big up new menswear retail independents. It’s not easy giving it a crack in these trading times. Eighteen months in, and Liquor Store in Birmingham’s great Western Arcade is making a decent job of it with some great buying.

Owner Phil Hazel used to work for several fashion brands, including Tommy Hilfiger, Diesel, Wrangler and Lee, so he’s got a good retail grounding in sales, merchandising and staff training, which all helps when you’re starting out on your own. With his expertise in denim, Hazel would like the store to become a real destination for jeans, and that’s quite an old-school thing for an independent to do with there being so much competition out there these days. He particularly loves the heritage denim brands, but then he likes all the product he carries to have a good story or history to it, whether it’s a pair of Levi’s jeans, or a Sperry deck shoe. “My aim is to build a customer base that enjoys clothes that are well-made with a good story behind the brand,” he says. “People who are looking for something unique and something different to the high street, or to commercial brands. And people who want to buy good quality.”

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STONE ISLAND TO OPEN SECOND GERMAN STORE Iconic outerwear label Stone Island is set to launch its second flagship store in Germany. Located in Munich, the shop will open in September this year on the city’s Maximilian Strasse. Measuring 100 sq m with a glass fascia, the store will house both the Stone Island mainline collection and the Stone Island junior range, as well as featuring the Stone Island Shadow Project line. The brand opened its first, German flagship store in Sylt in March 2012.

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AUGUST 2013 | RETAIL | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 16

ThE BIg MWB E-COMMERCE SuRVEY MWB quizzed menswear indies about their online business and development plans.

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100

90

100

of retailers surveyed plan to invest in a transactional website within the next 12 months.

—

90

80

70

85%

100

IS YOuR WEBSITE TRANSACTIONAL?

80

YES 63%

70

60

60

50

50

NO 37%

40

40

30

30

20

90

90

80

80

70

70

60

60

50

50

40

40

30

30

20

20

100

100

WhAT LEVEL OF INVESTMENT dO YOu 90 ENVISAgE? 80

70

60

53% 50

40

30

21% 16%

20

20

10% 10

10

10

10

0

0

0

0

10

0

UP TO £5,000

£5,000£10,000

£10,000£20,000

£20,000+

100

90

100

100

100

90

90

4% 4%

80

4%

100 70

60

90

50

80

WhAT LEVEL OF INVESTMENT dId YOu 80 SPENd ON YOuR TRANSACTIONAL 70 WEBSITE?

90

80

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40

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100

dOES YOuR TRANSACTIONAL WEBSITE gENERATE REPEAT BuSINESS OR MAINLY NEW BuSINESS?

39% 70

60

60

60

50

50

50

47% 40

40

40

30

30

30

10

11% 31%

70

60

70

59% 20

80

60

50

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40

40

30

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20 100

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UP TO 60 £5,000

£5,000£10,000

50

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WhAT PERCENTAgE OF YOuR OVERALL REVENuE dOES YOuR TRANSACTIONAL WEBSITE CONSTITuTE? UNDER 10% .... 31% 10-20% ....... 31% 20-30% ....... 11% 30-40% ....... 15% 40-50% ........ 4% 50-60% ........ 4% 60+% .......... 4%

26%

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REPEAT

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100

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dOES YOuR TRANSACTIONAL WEBSITE gENERATE OVERSEAS BuSINESS, OR JuST uk BuSINESS?

79%

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of retailers surveyed plan on growing their e-commerce business.

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70 60

100

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AUGUST 2013 | RETAIL | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 17

100

00

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hOW dOES YOuR PROduCT OFFER ONLINE 100 90 COMPARE TO IN-STORE?

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100 100 90

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dO YOu PLAN TO REdEVELOP YOuR WEBSITE OVER ThE 60 NExT 12-18 MONThS? 70

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YES 81%

30

29%

16% 60

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43%

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hOW MuCh hAVE YOuR REVENuES ONLINE gROWN OVER ThE LAST 12 MONThS? UNDER 10% .... 43% 10-20% ....... 29% 20-30% ........ 4% 30-40% ........ 7% 40-50% ........ 0% 50-60% ........ 7% 60+% ......... 10%

30

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NO 19%

WhAT PERCENTAgE OF YOuR BuSINESS dO YOu PROJECT ONLINE TO BECOME OVER ThE NExT 3-5 YEARS? UNDER 10% ..... 9% 10-20% ....... 16% 20-30% ....... 16% 30-40% ....... 22% 40-50% ....... 16% 50-60% ........ 9% 60+% ......... 12%

Moda Stand MC30, Hall 20 Dents, Furnax Lane, Warminster, Wiltshire, BA12 8PE Telephone: +44 (0) 1985 212291 Fax: +44 (0) 1985 216435 Email: sales@dents.co.uk London showroom: 4th floor, 32 Brook Street, London W1K 5DL Tel: 020 7491 9231

www.dents.co.uk

AUGUST 2013 | RETAIL | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 19

BuSINESS SENSE Four leading experts in areas spanning e-commerce, logistics, human resources and retail space advise retailers on some of the key issues affecting the industry right now.

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WhY IS ShORT-TERM

hOW CAN ONLINE

RETAIL SPACE A

RETAILERS IMPROVE

gREAT

ThEIR dELIVERY

“POP-uP-ORTuNITY”?

SERVICE?

We all know that selling online is a great way to keep costs down and reach a global audience, but it can’t compete with the physical shopping experience. Consumers want to see and touch a product – and share the process with friends. ultimately, shopping is a pastime and, more than ever before, it’s about entertainment.

— Getting consumers face-to-face with your brand is also the best way to create new, and loyal, customers. Whether you’re an established retailer wanting to launch a new line or an up-and-coming designer looking to get noticed, a physical presence lets you test the market, meet a new audience, connect with consumers and build your brand.

Nevertheless, thanks to online retail, today’s shoppers expect more from shops. They want an experience that’s new and exciting, presented to them in a memorable way. A pop-up shop is a great option to achieve this and create a lasting impression to boost your online sales.

Landlords are also waking up to changes on the high street and becoming more flexible when it comes to lease lengths, as pop-up shops help them to avoid empty spaces and cover rates between tenants.

As a result, retail space is no longer the preserve of giants such as Topshop – anyone can set up shop from anything between a week and six months. But before you get your Mr Selfridge on and embark upon your high-street adventure, swot up on the following tips: 1. Pick your destination carefully Be clear who your customer is. Once you’ve decided on this it’s about finding the right area to match your line’s price and audience. Learn about the demographic, footfall, neighbours and local attractions.

2. decide on your lease length When deciding on how long you want to appear on the high street it’s important to take into consideration not only your budget, but also what you want to achieve from your pop-up. Is it to trial a new line, test out a location for a more long-term space, quickly gain customer feedback or build brand loyalty?

3. Create an experience The best pop-ups get people talking and leave a lasting impression. Give your shop a theme or link it up with a national event such as Wimbledon or Royal Ascot. Or bring energy into the store with live music or a free drink.

With every shop I launch I try to create an “Instagram moment” – something quirky and fun that stops shoppers in their tracks and leaves them with an experience to share with friends.

4. use social media Make the most of Twitter, Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest. Post plenty of photos, engage with your users, invite key influencers and bloggers, and get your friends to come down and talk about you online.

— ROSS BAILEY, Founder of online pop-up marketplace Appear Here. www.appearhere.co.uk

Online retail is growing at an extraordinary rate. According to IMRg, the online retail market in the uk was worth £78bn in 2012. Worryingly for all retailers with an online presence, however, IMRg also calculated the annual cost of failed uk online deliveries to be £851m – a significant cost, and a factor that makes the consideration of logistics partners a vital component in etail strategies.

— The importance of choosing the right courier service is often underestimated by businesses, yet it is key to improving consumers’ delivery experiences. When a company chooses to partner with a particular courier firm, that business will become an extension of their brand – meaning that any failings on the part of the courier will have a negative impact on the company’s image and reputation.

It is therefore important for online retailers to ensure they have all the information they need before choosing a courier service. For example, even though information on a carrier’s overall reliability can be accessed relatively easily, factors such as the quality and attitude of delivery drivers and customer service teams can be more difficult to quantify, often only coming to light when it is too late, or via social network feedback that places a retailer’s brand in an adverse light. In order to improve their delivery service, when looking for a new logistics partner, retailers should look for a delivery partner that shows a real interest in their objectives and is then willing to tailor elements of their delivery around those requirements. Such carriers tend to measure their success against their clients’ satisfaction levels and will always go the extra mile to fulfil their needs.

Any logistics firm should be treated as an extension of the retailer they work with as, operating under the same brand umbrella, the success or failure of the partnership will reflect directly on the retailer. To improve their delivery service, it is important for retailers to understand the choice their customers are looking for in their delivery options in order to provide a diverse range that would allow the customer to pick the best one to suit their needs.

From a demand perspective, even the most organised delivery systems can suffer reputational damage due to a failure to plan for seasonal changes in levels of demand, and the pressures generated by successful promotional campaigns. Managing the customer is a big part of getting it right, but managing internal planning can be just as important. All of these options rely heavily on a relationship of trust and understanding between the retailer and their logistics firm. To improve their delivery service, online retailers need to look carefully at their existing parcel logistics partner to see, and act upon, instances where there is room for improvement.

— PAUL DOBLE, Director and e-commerce expert at DX, a leading independent logistics and parcel distribution company.

>>>

AUGUST 2013 | RETAIL | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 20

WhAT IMPACT WILL

WhY IS SEO SO

NEW EMPLOYMENT

IMPORTANT FOR MY

TRIBuNAL ChANgES

ONLINE BuSINESS?

hAVE? It’s the nightmare situation that no business wants to face, and it just got worse. Employment tribunal fees are going up, and the government has done an awful job of letting business owners know about it. These new fees and rules come into force this summer and are aimed at simplifying and streamlining the tribunal system, but could end up costing your businesses dearly.

— Our research shows that two-thirds of companies and business owners are unaware of the reforms, while a similar proportion of small businesses have no protection against the financial implications of the new employment tribunals. To put it bluntly, this is a huge change that company directors need to know about. These changes leave the door wide open to multiple claims that could cost your business dearly unless you put some protection in place.

The changes that are due to come into force this summer include: • A new simplified way for employees to register claims, making it an easy option • “Strike out” powers to end weak cases at the earliest possible opportunity • Tribunals held to consistent rules so all parties know what to expect • Cutting the amount of paperwork, making it easier to withdraw and dismiss claims • New procedures for preliminary hearings to reduce the overall number of hearings While the changes have been made with the good intention of making it easier to strike out frivolous and weak claims, the ease with which claims can now be filed means that companies will have to spend thousands to fight their corner. A disgruntled former employee will be able to issue a claim for as little as £160, while an unfair dismissal claim comes with a £250 filing fee, with a hearing fee of £950. The fees will be payable by you should the case be justified, your legal costs will also be payable by you either way.

And, in the current financial climate, that’s the last thing any company director wants.

The best way to deter future employment tribunal claims after the new regulations come into force is to ensure your company has a strong HR policy. Making sure that employees know their contracts and obligations is the only real way to avoid legal problems and expense further down the line. Having a robust system in place from the offset will ensure smooth sailing for both you and your staff.

— CHRIS HALL, Managing director at LightHouseRiskServices.com.

For fashion retailers, the ability to reach online audiences – whether it’s consumers, buyers or suppliers – is ever evolving as more and more people look to the internet to do their research. It’s forecast that the online retail market will continue to grow steadily throughout 2013. This, coupled with the fact that sales through mobile devices (smartphones and tablets) have also seen continued growth – making up 12 per cent of e-retail sales in 2012, a 150 per cent increase on 2011 figures – means that now more than ever online is big business.

— With an increasing number of retailers moving into overseas markets in order to expand their reach beyond domestic boundaries, and all competing to gain traction in an ever-expanding sector, the importance of SEO in developing and sustaining an effective international shop window (website) cannot be underestimated. It’s vital in achieving success, but the transition is not void of pitfalls. Done well it can create a springboard for brands – done badly, it can blight credibility. Today, SEO is no longer just about increasing search traffic to a website, it’s about driving key, targeted audiences to a site through a range of media and using an array of combined specialisms. Therefore, it’s essential that retailers maximise methodologies to their full potential now in order to stay ahead.

Attracting new customers is key for an online business, but it’s important to use the right platforms and language to engage. Leading international SEO practices demand that companies not only need to think global but they need to act local. So avoid getting lost in translation. Simply making content accessible through strategically placed key words or phrases is not enough; a website needs human translation – creative content written by native speakers. This way, not only will the idioms and wordplay of a language be conveyed, but there will be an implicit understanding of that culture and factors that affect your consumers’ buying decisions. using online PR methods is also an intrinsic part of modern-day SEO. Increasingly, people tend to search by brand + the search item, therefore it’s important companies make use of viral content to make sure they share data or stories that drive searches on their brand name. Knowing this type of information is essential in reaching target demographics. It will also help to build localised content and links with other websites and social media platforms, which in turn will drive natural search and enhance prominence and accessibility.

— ANDREAS VONIATIS, Founder and managing director of Alchemy Viral, a specialist in international search optimisation. www.alchemyviral.com.

A U T U M N / W I N T E R 2 01 3 m o r l ey 1 795 .co m

AUGUST 2013 | INTERVIEW | 22

INTERVIEW

NICk TENTIS A vastly expanded product line for spring/summer 2014 is seeing designer Nick Tentis dip his toes into wholesale and eyeing another London shop to house the new luxury lifestyle ready-to-wear collection, while keeping his Savile Row store very much about the bespoke and handmade suited chap about town. Tom Bottomley finds out more.

— Tom Bottomley: how did you get started with your own business?

Nick Tentis: Through being interested in vintage clothing, I started buying and developing contacts with people who were in that world. I then started buying in lots of things from the States, as well as sourcing factories and old tailors’ shops in London that had old stock. I was getting a lot of stuff from guys in Vegas who would go round and get the best picks out of the thrift shops. I bought containers by the weight, and opened a shop on Archer Street in Soho with Mark Powell – who I had previously worked with at Robot on the Kings Road and in Covent Garden, on Floral Street, in the early 80s.

Eventually, the good stuff we were getting began to run out, and people started saying, “I really like that suit, can I get one made?” From there, I learnt how to do fittings and measure people up. It was more a case of designing for them; I wasn’t “making” because I wasn’t trained as a tailor.

Although I love bespoke tailoring, it never appealed to me. It was more about creating the right look.

— TB: Where did you go from there?

NT: I moved and opened up a studio on Beak

dESIgNER NICk TENTIS

AUGUST 2013 | INTERVIEW | 23

Street and built up a clientele. People would come to me for a suit for a wedding or another event, so I’d design them something and get one of the tailors in Soho to make it for them. Over the years I built up a name for doing that, and then I opened a retail shop under my own name doing tailoring and ready-to-wear in Clerkenwell. It opened around 18 years ago and I was there for five years, in Exmouth Market. After that, I moved again and opened up a shop on Avery Row in the West End doing ready-to-wear and bespoke tailoring, building on what I’d done in Clerkenwell. I moved to Savile Row around four years ago. I sit between Spencer Hart on one side and Davies & Son on the other. Two opposite ends of the Savile Row spectrum; one that’s relatively new and the other that’s been there around 200 years!

— TB: has being on Savile Row raised your profile?

NT: Definitely, very much so. Over the years I’ve obviously built a reputation anyway through the work we do and having a good clientele and strong following. But having a retail presence on a main shopping street in Mayfair certainly does a lot for your reputation, and people start to take you more seriously. We’ve got a lot more passing trade, so we’ve built up a much bigger clientele, particularly for our ready-to-wear business.

— TB: Is this the first time you’ve dipped your toes into wholesale?

NT: Yes it is, for spring/summer 2014. We showed off-schedule during London Collections: Men and got a good reaction.

— TB: What’s made you now look at a wholesale route?

NT: Having the shop on Savile Row has meant I’ve tried to broaden our product range, so we can present ourselves as more of a lifestyle brand for men – to offer a one-stop shopping experience. So we’re doing shoes, belts, bags, shirts, ties, outerwear and knitwear, as well as tailoring.

There’s also casualwear and separates. Doing a presentation during London Collections: Men was a way of showing what we are doing now and how the product range has grown. For that reason

wholesaling to the right people makes a lot more sense. Also, we’re aiming to open another retail shop for the different types of product we are now doing. It will be a unique and exciting new concept. We’d really like to do it in the St James’s area. The Savile Row shop would simply be too prohibitive to try to house so many new product lines, so it will remain more about bespoke and made-to-measure suits, and handmade shirts. The new shop will be more about the luxury lifestyle ready-to-wear product. Suits will be around £800 – £1,200, whereas a handmade suit in our Savile Row shop is more like £3,000 – £4,000. For me, personally, and as a business, we want to strive to do new and interesting things – and show what I’m about as a designer, and how we want to present ourselves as a brand.

— TB: What did you do during London Collections: Men, and why were you not on schedule?

NT: The schedule was packed and we were a bit late with it, to be fair. They’ve done an amazing job with the show and it’s been a great success. We looked at the schedule and spoke to them, but they were just too full, and already had a backlog of some 20 people on the waiting list. So, because we’d already decided that we wanted to do it, we thought we’d go ahead and do something anyway. It just so happens that I’ve got personal connections at the Café Royal, which has been turned into a five-star luxury hotel. I love the new space.

We took over The Grill Room, which is an amazing room downstairs. We did an afternoon presentation between 2pm and 5.30pm, rather than a show. Because the schedule was so packed, there was no point in doing a show. We featured static models, walk-in models and a rotating runway show with around 30 looks.

We served drinks, cocktails and food all day long, and did a drinks event in the evening.

It worked really well, and around 200 people turned up,

which amazed me. I didn’t think we’d get that many because we were sandwiched between the Alexander McQueen show and the Savile Row event – featuring all the old traditional tailors – at Lords cricket ground, two really big events, so we did well.

— TB: What shops are you hoping to attract with your new wholesale offer?

NT: We want to attract the likes of Mr Porter, Matches, Harrods, Selfridges, Liberty and Harvey Nichols. The major London department stores are who we definitely want to talk to and show what we’re doing to see if there is an appetite for our collection.

— TB: What is your online presence like?

NT: We obviously have a website, but we don’t sell online. And it’s another reason why we’ve developed the product range because, for the last two or three years, we’ve focused on sharp, contemporary and directional men’s tailoring. It’s all really well-made, canvassed with mother-ofpearl buttons. Nothing is fused, and nothing is made in China – not that I have a problem with Chinese production, but ours is all made in Europe. To me, that’s more of a face-to-face business. I don’t think that selling people really high-end tailoring is an online business. We want people to come into the store for that, talk to our guys, get fitted and make sure it’s all perfect for them. So that’s why we haven’t historically sold online. However, we do want to sell online, and it’s going to be more about the accessories we’ve developed – bags, belts and wallets, as well as knitwear, shirts and products that are easier for a guy to get his head around buying online.

The online business should be up and running for us by October at the latest. It will feature the new product we’ve done for autumn/winter 2013, though the main launch of all the new product lines is for spring/summer 2014.

“For me personally, and as a business, we want to strive to do new and interesting things – and show what I’m about as a designer, and how we want to present ourselves as a brand”

AUGUST 2013 | GENT | CONTENTS | 25

G E N T

LET ThE huNT COMMENCE Luxury British label Foxhunt may be unfamiliar to many but, with its trend-driven range of premium knits, and specialist bespoke service, it’s certainly one to keep an eye on. With garments made using 100 per cent natural British yarns, the collection retains the highest quality and its uniqueness by utilising experienced craftsmen to hand-knit each piece.

The brand’s mainline ready-to-wear knitwear collection uses traditional knitting patterns, re-creating hand-knitting techniques with a strong focus on the fact no machinery work is used throughout production.

Foxhunt also provides a bespoke knitwear option, with two to three fittings during the creation and a fiveweek completion time, while a semi-bespoke option takes current garments and adds an alteration service to meet the shopper’s needs. Currently stocked in London stores Wolf & Badger and DS Dundee, the brand is looking to expand further with select key accounts across the uK for the new season.

—

26

Product news

32

A shirt fire thing

34

An eye for supply

Rounding up the key stories this month

28

Read the small print

30

Sartorially slam dunkin’ the socialite pack

Printed apparel and accessories to get in-store now Profiling London designer A Sauvage

The rapid success of shirt label Ben Green Saks Fifth Avenue on its wholesale launch

AUGUST 2013 | GENT | PRODUCT | 26

RAdAR

PROduCT NEWS

Spotlighting style.

Inside menswear.

M E ANI NG BU SI NE SS

BLAZON

Specialist shirt label 1 Like No Other has expanded its range of quirky and colour-filled models with the launch of a business category for spring/summer 2014.

Retaining the brand’s unique surface patterns and illustrations, the collection has been designed with a more formal cut while retaining the label’s signature use of colour. “It’s a natural evolution for the brand to give our customers greater choice when they need a more formal option,” says Karen Ames, head of sales. “The business shirts are still designed to be worn in a relaxed manner, to show unique trim and design details that are synonymous with 1 Like No Other.” Wholesale prices start from £38.

—

ESTABLISHED: 2012 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Graphic, abstract and geometric silk scarves catering for both the men’s womenswear markets.

— HISTORY: Established by artist and designer Natasha Coverdale, the brand produces scarves designed in the UK and hand-printed by a small artisan business in Bangkok.

Fledging label Blazon makes its debut in the accessories market this season with a colour-filled, graphic collection of men’s and women’s scarves.

Established earlier last year by artist and designer Natasha Coverdale, the Blazon is designed at Coverdale’s studio in Hove, before being hand-printed in Bangkok by a family run business. using soft-spun rayon, the scarves can be washed at 30 degrees and retain their colour for much longer than their silk counterparts.

Each style in the Blazon collection is named after an influential character or friend in the designer’s life, while design inspiration is taken from modernist art alongside over 10 years working with brands such as Harrods and Liberty.

“I have spent many years making shape and colour work hard to tell a story, to represent a person or a company,” says Coverdale. “I wanted to create geometric patterns and landscapes seen to be as beautiful as a floral print.”

Scarves measure 1,100mm x 1,650mm, and men can also pick up small pocket squares measuring 25mm x 25mm – remaining limitededition with small runs produced of each print. www.natashacoverdale.com —

LOAF I NG ARO U ND Following on from its successful showcase at the spring/summer 2014 edition of Pitti uomo, footwear label Swims is expecting a positive response to its latest drop of water-friendly loafers.

Available in a range of new colourways, including orange, green, petrol and lime, the collection also sees the introduction of prints on both the sole and upper.

The lace, penny and flat-front loafers are available in camouflage versions, while the flat-front styles also welcome the addition of a playful Hawaiian-inspired print.

—

AUGUST 2013 | GENT | PRODUCT | 27

ON TREND Seasonal extras: Weekend bags

SU M M E R ST YLE Iconic British menswear label Crombie has launched its first full spring/summer collection for the 2014 buying season. Synonymous for its outerwear offer, the brand was established in 1805 by John Crombie and has, up until now, been primarily an autumn/winter-only brand.

Stocked in over 20 countries globally, the new collection comprises slim-fit blazers, light and bright cotton trousers and shorts in a colour palette of navy, cream and Bordeaux. Outerwear, meanwhile, remains the key product category, with suede-fronted jackets and pea coats completing the brand’s first foray into summer dressing.

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1: FILSON RRP £270 07803 774572 2: MISMO price on request info@mismo.dk 3: CHAPMAN £249 07778 789019 4: SWIMS £60 0161 222 8048 5: TYLER & TYLER price on request 0121 360 4279

BRANd TO WATCh

CIRCLE OF GENTLEMEN dutch label Circle of gentlemen is a relatively new name to the premium menswear circuit yet but has already built up a strong portfolio of key uk stockists.

In accounts such as Jules B in Newcastle-upon-Tyne, Bournemouth’s Richmond Classics and Brocks in Cirencester, the brand puts quality and attention to detail at the forefront of each collection – with autumn/winter 2013 no different.

Inspired by “the great explorers and expeditions of the 20th century”, the latest range from Circle of Gentlemen has been deemed its most refined yet, by bloggers and buyers alike. From jackets featuring navy uniform detailing through to a colour palette of sand, caramel, terracotta and deep army green, the brand continues to offer something fresh for the winter season while retaining its signature tailored style.

Known in the uK for its shirting, the brand introduces new additions and innovations such as collar shapes, 100 per cent Egyptian cotton and the use of cotton-melange with a flannel touch, updating this product category for the season ahead. With more than 400 stockists worldwide, in markets including markets Switzerland, Russia, Belgium and the uS, the label is looking to increase its uK presence further over the next year.

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ESTABLISHED: 2006 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Characterised by its three-button collar, Circle of Gentlemen is attracting attention with its complete wardrobe collection.

— HISTORY: Established over seven years ago, the menswear label was founded in the Netherlands and is currently stocked in over 50 stores in the UK alone.

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SELECTED HOMME £16 020 3205 0315

DRAKES £110 020 7734 0092

BEN SHERMAN PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7812 5300

JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7227 3131

1 LIKE NO OTHER £50 020 7637 7650

CROMBIE £27 020 7659 9046

ELEMENT £20 07920 195942

REAd ThE SMALL PRINT Prints are intricate and detailed this autumn/winter, with shirting through to accessories featuring paisley, illustrated florals and obscure surface patterns.

— ETON £140 020 7495 7988

BURTON WODE £13.40 07973 386828

Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale

SIMON CARTER £27 020 8683 4475

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SARTORIALLY SLAM duNkIN’ ThE SOCIALITE PACk Adrien Sauvage is something of a fashion phenomenon. In just three and a half years, the former teenage professional basketball player – who played for England – has built a brand and opened a London shop by having friends and clients in high places, and a very sharp eye for style. Tom Bottomley gets his story.

— dreams of playing in the NBA in the uS may seem a million miles away for one-time basketball ace Adrien Sauvage, now 30, who turned his back on professional basketball at the age of 19, when he realised it would be a tougher slog to the top than he had originally thought. he’d seen friends of his return from America with their dreams in pieces, and decided his future lay elsewhere.

Instead, Sauvage clearly used his charm and sense of style to woo the London socialite set. using exclusive women’s boutiques and renowned top-end department stores, he began to dress them, becoming their stylist and “image consultant”. Realising such women had high standing husbands, who were even more in need of a style makeover, he began working with them, too. It was the sort of client list that only really the

top end luxury brands and designers can court seriously. Not a bad start, that’s for sure, and Sauvage opened a London store on Maddox Street last year, just round the corner from Savile Row – one of the London haunts where he had previously taken male clients to dress them appropriately for different events.

“The shop is open to the public, but it’s more of a destination,” he says. “We work it more as appointment only. With retail the way it is, I find that a good made-to-measure business gets people through the door, rather than just waiting for people to come into your shop to spend £2,000 on a suit. That’s just not day to day. So we have our client books, and that’s how it works.” He also weaves his own cloth called Kente, based on a traditional Ghanaian heritage cloth. “I get a lot of African officials coming in, and politicians, and

they might want to get something a bit pimped out for a wedding or something – in these traditional cloths.”

He says his fashion “house” does not follow the fashion schedule, but focuses instead on the evolving needs of his customers. The individuals themselves are what counts to Sauvage, and that’s why they keep coming back.

In his first season, he even managed to get his collection into Harrods and Matches. Some feat indeed, so word of his talent was clearly out there. “That was quite a shock because I had designer friends who had been trying to get in there for five years,” says Sauvage. He’s still stocked in such fine fashion destinations, as well as globally in stores such as Galeries Lafayette in Paris and Lane Crawford in Hong Kong. And there is so much more to the collection

AUGUST 2013 | GENT | PROFILE | 31

now, with casualwear featuring more, though the contemporary tailoring is still key. But the wholesale side is definitely something he’s looking to push if they are “the right partners who have the right sensitivity and clients, and who would appreciate a made to measure service, as well as the ready to wear offer. We could come into do appointments with them,” he says.

“We’re always up for good partnerships.

Selfridges has gone ‘super lux’ and has elevated the design floor, so that’s more of an interesting proposition now.”

Sauvage is a likeable and cool character, and he stands at an imposing six foot five inches (no doubt the norm in the world of basketball.) When it comes to fashion design, he didn’t train, he’s “self taught at the school of life.” Sauvage talks like a rock star at times, especially when he says, “I got caught into a realm of society cats who were very much about their lifestyles and how they looked.”

He says he started dressing people from the world of art and fashion and “patrons from all the art galleries and stuff.” When he predominantly worked with women at the start, sourcing clothing and accessories from all the couture houses for them, it was all about image and themes. It could be a Russian wedding in Monaco, that kind of thing,” he says. Certainly not for your average Jo, then.

“I just kind of fell into it,” he says. Not easy to envisage how you just fall into that type of lifestyle, but he clearly had the right contacts. So why exactly he turn his back on basketball when he clearly showed so much promise from an

early age? “I saw a lot of people I knew coming back from America at the age of 24 not really having nailed it. So it just made me think, “Do I really love this game that much?”, which I did, but I was getting bored and was more inspired by people and lifestyle, and going out and having a drink – because I’d never had a drink before! I got sucked into the ‘sin city’ for a little while.” And with the late nights clearly came the potential clientele.

“I certainly built up a client list, and worked with brands such as Givenchy, Chanel and Balenciaga to dress them. I would style these women up until they looked amazing, and then it made their husbands look terrible. So I started on them, too.” Kilgour and Huntsman on Savile Row were then feeling the benefit.

But coming from what he calls more of a “fashion sensitivity”, Sauvage believed his clients wanted something more modern and something that was “speaking the same language as them.”

And clearly something that went better with their wives’ new looks. “That’s how A Sauvage came about,” he says. “I thought I should do it myself.

With a lot of the old Savile Row tailors, I was finding the choice of fabrics to be dated in comparison to what you have in ready-to-wear fashion, where it’s more about technology and pushing things forward. But, in terms of communicating to the modern man, I don’t believe in doing fashion shows, because real men don’t go to fashion shows.”

In that respect, he doesn’t use models for his look books, instead shooting the product on “real people.” His clients include film directors Terry Gilliam and Spike Jonze, actor and hip-hop artist Mos Def and Miami Heat basketball player Dwyane Wade. “We have also just done the wardrobe for the Robbie Williams tour,” he says, nonchalantly. “And we have architects and

creatives. At the start, my mission statement was This is Not a Suit, because I was dressing people who didn’t normally wear suits. It was a way of getting them round to looking at suits in a different light. I wasn’t dressing bankers, people who were used to being in a suit.”

The s/s 14 collection is probably the most complete range Sauvage has done to date. “There is tartan mixed with African landscape prints, which reflects my heritage,” he says. “My great grandfather was adopted by Irish priests who lived in Scotland in 1850. With the tartan and leather, and African prints, this collection is kind of Afro-punk!”

It even includes washed calf-skin leather biker jackets, set to retail at £900. And there are accessories, too, such as leather bags and wallets.

“Diversifying away from the suit was something interesting for me,” he says. “And it’s probably why I’ve held back on wholesaling my collections in the past. Now it’s a more complete offer. We’re building the range and I didn’t want to communicate just one message. I wanted to establish more of a lifestyle brand.” He also now does a small collection of “key pieces” for women, which sells in the The Shop at Bluebird on the Kings Road.

It’s been a quick journey for Sauvage to get to this level, and he’s soaking it all in. Needless to say, there is plenty more to come as his name gets ever more established and his client list continues to grow. He may not be shooting the hoops in the NBA, but he’s a rising star in menswear. www.asauvage.com

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DAVID ALEMBICK

A ShIRT FIRE ThINg With so many retailers and brands suffering due to the challenging trading conditions in the uk last year, german shirt label Ben green spotted a gap in the market for a 100 per cent cotton label with entry level price points. Victoria Jackson speaks to distributor david Alembick about the season ahead and the shirt specialist’s sudden success, having entered nearly 100 stockists across the uk, Ireland and the Channel Island in just over seven months.

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One of the many debut brands’ success stories at last season’s Moda exhibition, shirt specialist Ben green is certainly a name to watch as it returns for the show’s spring/summer 2014 edition.

Established in 2009, the German label is part of the FSH GmbH Group umbrella – a company created by Klaus Veer. Formerly a managing partner of Rawe Rheda, a fashion label within the Seidensticker Group, Veer had both the credentials and the knowledge to build a shirt label that has gone on to thrive in both domestic and international markets.

With accounts in countries such as Germany, Greece, France, Switzerland, Denmark, Finland, Austria and the Middle East, it wasn’t long before the group looked across the waters to the uK menswear market.

Following a number of seasons of dipping its toes into the uK market, it wasn’t until December 2012 that the brand decided to drive its presence further. Recognising the accomplishments of distributor David Alembick during his 41 years in the trade, the brand approached him and, in just over seven months, has been reintroduced to both key independents and department stores across the country.

In spite of its infancy, the label has now

reached nearly 100 stockists in the uK and Irish markets, including names such as the Fenwick Group, Bakers of North Allerton, Barbour of Dumfries, S.D. Kells in Northern Ireland and Clerys in Dublin among many more.

“Many years ago, I established my company D’Alembi, which is today one of the biggest buyers and sellers of menswear clearance stock,” says Alembick. “It took something very special to convince me to diversify and become a sole distributor for Ben Green, but now I manage the whole of the uK, as well as Ireland and the Channel Islands, and I can’t believe the amazing response the brand has received in such a short time.”

Although Alembick’s reputation stood him in good stead, a quality product was essential for success in the uK market at such a challenge trading time.

“Ben Green only produces 100 per cent cotton shirts and, when I was first introduced to it, I was amazed at the quality for the price points,” says Alembick. “Both FSH and myself knew there wasn’t a better time to re-establish Ben Green in the uK market.”

Comprising two sub-divisions within the Ben Green name, Redline – which offers non-iron 100 per cent cotton models – and Blueline, an

easy care 100 per cent cotton range, the brand also provides retailers with both a comprehensive forward-order collection and a successful NOS system.

In a climate where trends move at such a fast pace, and with many retailers continuing to recognise the benefits of buying in-season, offering a next-day delivery service, as well a topup service of its bestsellers, is just one of the brand’s biggest appeals.

As every retailer well knows, however, the deciding factor when investing in a new label is profit and, with wholesale prices ranging from £10 to £12, retailers are guaranteed a “handsome mark-up.”

“I believe this is a big brand in the making,” Alembick says without hesitation. “While obviously still maintaining the quality of the shirts, I've also added 100 per cent wool suits, both silk and microfibre ties, as well as tie, cuff link and hankie sets to the range. Moving into the new season, I’m looking to source other products to add to the Ben Green stable, so spring/summer 2014 is definitely an exciting time.”

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www.ben-green.de

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SAkS FIFTh AVENuE gETS AN EYE FOR SuPPLY Famous uS department store Saks Fifth Avenue launched its first full wholesale collection at Pitti uomo in June. Tom Bottomley went along to find out why such a big retailer would want to turn its hand to designing and supplying.

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Eric Jennings, vice president and men’s fashion director for Saks Fifth Avenue, has been with the company coming up to five years, having previously worked in the wholesale division of giorgio Armani and, prior to that, hugo Boss in the uS. Jennings is very much the driving force behind the new wholesale offer from the uS department store giant. He says they started doing a collection for their own stores in 2009, and wanted to make it a “lifestyle” collection – just like the other labels they carry.

“We have the best brands in the world,” he says. “But the one thing we didn’t have was our own. We had dabbled in private label, with maybe a sweater for fall, or some shirts for spring, but no complete ranges. The timing could not have been better to put together our own full collection in 2009, what with the uS going into recession. It was profitable, and the name resonated with our customers. We had been considering other names for this collection, but realised we had a lot of recognition with our own brand.”

Since the launch in-store in August 2009, season on season the collection size – and business generated through its own label – has grown, and is now one of Saks Fifth Avenue’s biggest menswear businesses. That’s saying something. “We didn’t intend to take it to wholesale,” says Jennings. “We’ve continually supported the Pitti show, it’s always been a part of our travels on the fashion circuit, but coming to the exhibition with our own collection was more about dipping our toes in the water to see what the reaction would be, and if there was any international interest. Also, to show the world what we’re doing in our store, because it’s

been a huge success for us, so why not?” Apparently there has been much interest from the Asian market, but also an undisclosed “major London retailer” that’s expressed an interest. Little wonder with a retail name that carries such weight and worldwide respect.

The s/s 14 collection is predominantly casual, though there is a full tailored range, too (tailoring represents around 20 per cent of the whole offer). “The wovens and lightweight knits looked fantastic for this season, as do all the leather goods,” says Jennings. “And we’ve had a great response to the swimwear. A good 90 per cent of the collection is made in Italy, so we leveraged our knowledge of the best factories, materials and fits.”

At the New York flagship shop, the Saks Fifth Avenue line sits right across from Armani, Zegna and Polo Ralph Lauren. “It’s more accessible, probably closer to Polo Ralph Lauren than Armani or Zegna,” says Jennings. “Our classic customer is much more of an international or European classic type – they like an Italian or a British flavour, and so we’ve tried to emulate that aesthetic and sensibility in this collection.”

There are three tiers to the Saks Fifth Avenue collection, with the top-end Platinum label the one shown at Pitti. Next is the Black label, which Jennings says has the same “international classic aesthetic”, but more accessible price points. Then there is the White label, which is a younger and more contemporary version. “So the whole idea is take a man on his journey from buying his first suit, to becoming the CEO of the company,” says Jennings.

Nicely put.

Richard Cohen, senior vice president of business, says being an American company it makes sense to be more sportswear orientated. “That’s where

the key strengths are, and where you can really show some colour.” Cohen has only been with Saks Fifth Avenue for the past two years, having previously run Zegna sales in the uS. “The reaction at Pitti was very positive,” he says. “Buyers think the line is fresh and different, though they are a little confused why a department store would be showing product. But we explain that this is the product we sell in our own stores, and we don’t really sell outside of America. The quality and price point is right for us, so why not for anybody else?”

Kim Herring, the designer of the collection who has also only been with Saks Fifth Avenue for the past two years – joining from Zegna (where he was for 17 years), like Cohen, emphasises that it’s very colour focused with a swimwear programme, lightweight scarves and lightweight polos because in the States they have a lot of Saks Fifth Avenue stores in what he terms “sun belt” areas, such as Florida and California. “All year round they appreciate colour, but especially in the spring and summer,” he says. “Brightly coloured suede loafers, leather belts and the new colourful bag collection should be received particularly well.

There is also a luxury indigo story going on for s/s 14. It’s about taking the private label and turning it into a brand.” You can’t help but feel the job is already half done when it’s a name that’s so well-known.

Saks Fifth Avenue has 40 full-price and 65 offprice stores. Outside America there are three Saks Fifth Avenue franchise stores – in Mexico, Dubai and Kazakstan. But the new wholesale line will surely see it permeate into other global markets. There are certainly plenty of other avenues for Saks to go down.

www.gucinari.co.uk

Showing at Moda Footwear Stand R11, NEC Birmingham, 11-13 August 2013

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SEIdENSTICkER

M O D A

SPRINg/ SuMMER 2014 MOdA, 11-13 AuguST NEC BIRMINghAM 40

Lifestyle

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Accessories

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Footwear

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Select

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Moda Information

Bringing together some of the best names in casual menswear

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Tailoring

Essential extras and add-ons

Spanning tradition to trend-driven tailoring for spring/summer 2014

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Shirts

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Trousers

A comprehensive guide to the footwear labels to catch this season

Eight of the key names in shirting Chinos, cords and denims

Showcasing the best in contemporary and urban apparel and footwear The who, what and when from this month’s show

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MOdA LIFESTYLE C AM E L AC T I VE Focusing on the “vintage forester” look this season, Camel Active presents a collection of mixed prints and varied textures. In terms of fabrics, leather is used throughout the s/s 14 offering, on labels, zipper pulls, piping, sleeve trimmings and buttons. The brand’s signature technical and functional aspects, meanwhile, are factored in through the use of coatings, waxings and innovative textiles.

STATE OF ART  STANd Md19

Sports-inspired silhouettes are juxtaposed with more tailored options in this season’s casualwear offer.

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FYNCh hATTON  STANd MF20

FARAH 1920 While its more trend-driven Vintage range showcases its latest offering in Moda’s urban and contemporary zone, Select, Farah’s mainline category, Farah 1920, returns to Moda Gent with one of its strongest lines to date. Highlights this season include authentic Farah denims with a rinse wash and whiskered finish, with dark indigo dyes used across sweats, blazers, T-shirts and shorts.

F LO R E NT I NO Classic elegance is at the core of every Florentino line, and this season is no different. Colour is prevalent throughout with vintage pastel washes teamed with brighter blues, oranges and greens, while layering of shirts, zip-up fine knits and blazers offers the ideal option for the British weather. With a complete wardrobe offer, the brand continues its success in the uK market, while also becoming the official sponsor of the Barcelona 2013 World Swimming Championships in its native Spain.

FYNCH HAT TON Inspired by founder Roger Brandts’ travels in South Africa, shirt and knitwear specialist Fynch Hatton was designed as a bridge between designer labels and high-street brands. Fynch Hatton’s s/s 14 collection includes polo shirts in a selection of bold colourways, fine-knit V-neck and zip-up jumpers and pastel coloured shirts with contrast cuffs, buttons and stitching.

GLENBRAE Family run business Glenbrae was originally founded to cater for the golfing market with its offering of high-quality knits. With a focus on making the move into wholesale to the wider menswear market, the British brand makes its debut at Moda Gent. Dyed in Glenbrae’s own dye house in Huddersfield, the brand is able to provide a 29-colour line – available throughout the year due to its popular stock system.

R AGING BU LL A now-regular name in the halls of Moda Gent, rugby inspired lifestyle label Raging Bull returns with its comprehensive s/s 14 offering. Founded by rugby star Phil Vickery in 2003, the brand has since grown into both a domestic and international go-to label for comfortable, sports-influenced casualwear. The new season sees key bestsellers such as the gilet updated in new colourways, while the classic rugbyinspired striped shirt continues to be a favourite across all markets.

STAT E O F ART A new name to Moda Gent last season, State of Art returns for s/s 14 with a colourfilled collection of wardrobe classics. With chinos remaining a strong product category for the brand, newness comes from the introduction of stretch fabrics and oil-dye finishes in a selection of summer-appropriate tones such as yellow, red and orange.

VE DO NE I R E Dublin lifestyle label Vedoneire showcases a selection of classic menswear and underwear at its debut edition of Moda Gent. Presenting a collection of jackets, chinos, tailored shorts, polos, shirts and knitwear, colour is key, with apple green and cinnamon standing next to more subtle options such as beige and navy.

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gLENBRAE  STANd Md10

CAMEL ACTIVE  STANd ME10

FARAh 1920  STANd ME40

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FLORENTINO  STANd MF10

RAgINg BuLL  STANd MF31

VEdONEIRE  STANd ME30

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MAddOx STREET  STANd MF29

STEEL & JELLY  STANd ME49

ATELIER TORINO  STANd Md01 dIgEL  STANd MC20

BENVENuTO  STANd Mg21

gIBSON LONdON  STANd MF39

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MOdA TAILORINg Colour plays a central role in tailoring this season, while structure returns to both traditional and trend-driven collections.

— AT E LI E R TO R I NO German tailoring label Atelier Torino presents its signature collection of tailored staples this season, with a mix-and-match system of 30 different design styles in six premium Italian fabrics. Offering a wide range of sizes, the brand also prides itself on its larger options, catering for the increasingly bigger-sized market in the uK. Standing alongside parent company Wilvorst at this month’s show, buyers can expect classic designs modernised with innovative materials and finishes.

REMuS uOMO  STANd MF38

BE NVE NU TO Benvenuto returns to Moda showcasing both its Black and Purple labels. Suits in the Black Label collection have a classic silhouette, with newness coming from colours such as royal blue, cornflower and red tones. The Purple label, meanwhile, takes on a striking, sharply fitting silhouette – ideal for the more fashion-conscious market – finished with perfectly balanced peak lapels and slim trousers to give the range a contemporary look and feel.

DI GE L German lifestyle label Digel returns to Moda for another season with a wide and varied collection spanning leisurewear, casualwear and tailoring, as well as the younger, more trend-driven Move line. The new season will bring two distinct colour palettes: Cuba Café, featuring a series of reds, browns and greens; and Key West, comprising nautical shades.

DO U GL AS Formerly Douglas & Grahame, menswear label Douglas returns to Moda for another season, showcasing sub-brands including: Cruise, offering lightweight, chic tailoring; Wellington, presenting timeless and traditional suits in classic styles; and Drifter, showcasing casual yet smart leisure clothing. Douglas offers a range of two and three piece combinations, as well as a popular mix-and-match service. Fabrics remain traditional in plain and pinstripes, while a conventional palette of navy, black and grey welcomes the addition of bolder blue tones.

GI BSO N LO NDO N This season sees tailoring label Gibson London take inspiration from 50s and early 60s films as well as introducing vibrant hues for the new season. A confident masculine palette provides a rich foundation to the range of formal structured suits and casual separates including hot blue, bold aqua, sage green and bright pinks.

dOugLAS  STANd Md31

M ADDOX ST R E E T Now in its fourth season since launching into the uK wholesale market for a/w 12, Maddox Street continues to draw inspiration from sister label Gabicci, with on-trend paisley print shirts and floral detailing running throughout. A key look for s/s 14 is the grey checked three-piece, with a single-breasted, slim-cut blazer jacket and contrasting button detailing.

REMUS UOMO The new season sees Remus uomo offer a range of soft tailoring and subtle cloth structures, designed to create a casual but sharp look for the more fashionconscious shopper. Slim silhouettes dominate the line in traditional shades of blue and grey, while accents of green, raspberry and chambray update the range for s/s 14.

ST E E L & J E LLY Launched in 2004, Steel & Jelly combines classic tailoring with contemporary styling, creating a hybrid of tradition and innovation. Following its successful a/w 13 show, the brand returns for summer with a collection of shirts, jackets, suits, polo shirts, knitwear and sweatshirts.

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MOdA ShIRTS Intricate prints and bold graphics sit confidently next to subtler plain and pinstripe shirt options for s/s 14.

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BE N GR E E N Comprising two categories – Redline and Blueline – German shirt label Ben Green returns to the halls of Moda Gent following a successful debut at the last edition in February, to present both its forward-order collection and NOS service. Redline is 100 per cent non-iron cotton business shirts, while Blueline is 100 per cent easy care cotton. With a growing stockist base across the uK, the label is also present in a number of European markets as well the Middle East.

C L AU DI O LU GLI Founded by Hoss Salimian in 1997, Italian design house Claudio Lugli uses only Italian milled fabrics, combined with playful and trend-driven prints. Designed to be worn comfortably with both jeans and tailoring, the s/s 14 collection utilises Salimian’s love of colour with abstract graphic surface patterns in green, yellow, red, blue and pink set on a classic white shirt (pictured).

DAR I O BE LT R AN Spanish shirt label Dario Beltran was founded in 1977 by established shirt manufacturer Manufacturas Febel, and specialises in trend-driven styles. The new season sees a variation of pastel and light colour palettes, with detailing coming from contrasting fabric cuffs, inside collars and the Dario Beltran vintage car logo on the right hand side of the shirt.

DOUBLE T WO Recent winner of The Queen’s Award for International Trade, Yorkshire shirt specialist Double Two makes its return to the halls of Moda Gent with one of its strongest collections to date. S/s 14 sees a variety of new and exclusive fabric designs in stripes, checks and prints, while the label’s premium offering – Paradigm

by Double Two – offers a series of non-iron and wrinkle-free fabric alternatives.

E T E R NA Continuing its 150th anniversary celebrations, shirt label Eterna presents a collection of vivid colour blends, floral patterns and bleached pastel shades for the new summer season. Colour is key to this collection, with a palette comprising vintage blue, emerald, strawberry, spearmint, mandarin, navy, lemon and turquoise. dOuBLE TWO  STANd MC19

J U PI T E R Detail in the workmanship is the key focus this s/s 14 for shirt label Jupiter. Double collars, hand-stitched optics on inside cuffs, AMF stitching in contrasting colours on placket and collar and satin ribbons in neon colours all feature throughout.

Colour palettes move from Bohemian Riot in turquoise, green and aqua to Black and White, where interest comes from intricate prints and ribbon detail.

O LYM P Shirt specialist Olymp presents a strong offering of polo shirts alongside its formal shirt and knitwear categories. Colour and print are key with pastels coming out to play against bolder hues of lime, turquoise, yellow, orange, pink and hibiscus. In terms of print, the new season sees the classic pinstripe sitting next to the more playful Hawaiian prints on poplin or denim.

SE I DE NST I C K E R Europe’s largest shirt label, Seidensticker presents three sub-divisions at Moda this season. Looking to attract a younger target group with its uno Super Slim category, buyers can expect narrow silhouettes with a preppy look, while the Schwarze Rose line features modern collar styles and an updated colour palette. Lastly, the Splendesto range give classic shirts a twist with contrasting trimming, backstitch seams and coloured yarns and buttons.

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BEN gREEN  STANd MB11

JuPITER  STANd Mg19

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dARIO BELTRAN  STANd ME46

ETERNA  STANd ME11

OLYMP  STANd Md18

CLAudIO LugLI  STANd MF28

SEIdENSTICkER  STANd MB29

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hATTRIC  STANd Md21

BRAx  STANd ME20

MMx  STANd ME18

BRuhL  STANd MF18

MEYER  STANd ME18

MOdA TROuSERS While chinos continue to dominate in the trouser sector, newness comes from colour, fabrication and finish at this season’s Moda gent.

— BRAX Although the new season sees German label Brax cement itself further as a complete lifestyle collection, chinos, denims and cords remain at the heart of the label. From vintage-washed denims to fivepocket sun-faded cotton chinos, the more trend-driven consumer will welcome the return of the slim-cut trouser style with a reduced foot width for spring/summer 2014.

BRUHL The new collection from Bruhl sees its classic line updated with new fits and additional details such as contrasting stitching and wash-out effects. As well as traditional colours, the spring/summer 2014 range is also updated in a variety of summery shades including green, orange, red and blue. A key look this season is the vintage-inspired five-pocket faded green style.

HAT T R I C Drawing inspiration from the landscape of Tuscany, the new collection from Hattric features a palette of bright, fresh tones

including mango, papaya, vanilla and pistachio, set against a selection of complementing green and blue tones. Central styles within the range remain the successful five-pocket and flatfront options, modernised for the new season with a slimmer cut and a foot width reduction to 40cm.

M EYE R Meyer presents three categories this season – Comfort, Modern and Premium – with certain styles comprising heavier fabrics. Meanwhile, silhouettes remain slim for the new season in both its denim and chino options. While denims are spotted throughout, coloured chinos continue to dominate, with blue, green and red shades offering alternatives to navy and neutral options.

MMX Premium sister label to German trouser specialist Meyer, MMX makes its debut at Moda for spring/summer 2014. Luxe finishes and close attention to detail are the heart of the high-end label.

— >>>

AUGUST 2013 | GENT | MODA GENT | 48

JOCkEy  STANd MA25

ASdRuMARk  STANd MA33

kNIgHTSBRIdgE  STANd MB38

gANT  STANd Md12

HJ HALL  STANd MF01

ESSENTIAL ExTRAS Pop colours and statement stripes are among the key trends in accessories this season.

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ASDRUMARK Following a successful a/w 13 edition, underwear label Asdrumark returns with its latest offering of trend-driven designs, as well as more traditional styles. The brand will showcase its comprehensive line of boxer shorts, long johns, briefs, tangas, socks, swimwear, T-shirts and vests, with key boxer-short styles for the new season including a rainbow-coloured striped design and a blue and white model with contrasting grey waistband.

GANT Making its Moda debut this season is iconic lifestyle label Gant, presenting its range of accessories for s/s 14. With creative director Christopher Bastin at the helm of the brand since autumn 2012, design influences deriving from Gant’s Ivy League heritage can be seen throughout the collection.

HJ HALL Established in 1882, British sock label HJ Hall returns to Moda for s/s 14 with a wide and varied collection of designs. With around 70

per cent of its stock made on uK soil, the brand is a keen supporter of British manufacturing and, with an already established stockist base nationwide, HJ Hall is looking to add a number of selected accounts to its growing portfolio at the show.

J O C K EY underwear and swimwear label Jockey makes its return to Moda for s/s 14 with a collection comprising graphic-print beach shorts and slim-fit trunk underwear. Prints and patterns are a key feature in the brand’s latest drop, which includes a striped model in an Americanainspired colour palette.

K NI GHTSBR I DGE British men’s neckwear and accessories specialist Knightsbridge returns to Moda for another season following exceptional growth over the a/w 13 buying period, welcoming a raft of new indies to its portfolio. Established in 1997, the brand includes three sub lines and offers accessories such as bow ties, pocket squares and neck ties.

— >>>

See us at Moda Stand MB29 Brian Winterbourne UK and Ireland Sales brian.winterbourne@seidensticker.com Tel: 01572 723931

www.seidensticker.com

showyourejockey.com

Moda Stand MA25 & INDX

AUGUST 2013 | GENT | MODA FOOTWEAR | 52

CAMEL ACTIVE  STANd V9

JOSEF SEIBEL  STANd q21

JOuLES  STANd x4

O’NEILL  STANd T4

PLIMSOLL  STANd SE31

AUGUST 2013 | GENT | MODA FOOTWEAR | 53

MOdA FOOTWEAR Continuing its reign as the uk’s key footwear trade exhibition, Moda offers a wide and varied selection of men’s footwear labels, covering all the latest styles for spring/summer 2014.

— C AM E L AC T I VE Vintage forester forms the basis of Camel Active’s footwear collection this season, as the brand combines the functional shoe choice of foresters, classic military fabrics and colour-clashing to full effect. Leather is prevalent throughout the collection, along with technical innovations such as waxed finishes and vintageinspired textural mixes on uppers.

BugATTI ShOES  STANd q29

C HAT HAM Marine lifestyle label Chatham launches its new G2 Barefoot sole unit at this season’s Moda, revealing a new anatomically shaped design that moulds and curves to the foot for the feeling of not wearing shoes at all. Style-wise, the brand introduces a new men’s technical leather waterproof sailing boot boasting highvisibility binding, breathable bamboo lining, adjustable straps and a moulded contoured sock.

J O U LE S Joules makes its Moda Footwear debut this season, bringing with it a range of men’s, women’s and children’s styles designed around its instantly recognisable identity as a lifestyle brand inspired by outdoor living. Wellingtons are key for the summer season, alongside casual pumps and brightly coloured loafers.

MuSTANg ShOES  STANd V11

J O SE F SE I BE L Josef Seibel focuses on a summery, fresh appearance for men this season with style signatures of perforations and braiding. Complemented by nubuck uppers in light neutrals, the collection radiates casual, sporty style while offering the brand’s hallmark comfort properties through elastic inserts and flexible constructions.

PLI M SO LL Hinting at the old school with a vintage feel, footwear label Plimsoll arrives at Moda Footwear with a range of 100 per cent cotton canvas styles on a 100 per cent rubber sole. Comprising styles for both men and women, the brand makes its Moda debut with a collection of its signature silhouettes in a spectrum of seasonal colours.

O ’ NE I LL New to Moda Footwear, surf label O’Neill unveils a directional range of footwear for men and women at this season’s exhibition. The men’s collection features three distinct stories – Cali, Casual and Capture – each of which focuses on the key seasonal silhouettes of retro hi-tops, standout canvas desert boots and hippy inspired suede moccasins.

ChAThAM  STANd S9

BU GAT T I SHO E S German brand Bugatti Shoes returns to Moda Footwear following a successful debut show last season with a diverse range of European-influenced footwear options. For spring/summer 2014 the focus is on city and sports inspired styles made to the highest standard and using quality materials such as lamb nappa and soft lambskin leather.

M U STANG SHO E S Mustang footwear is designed around the idea of urban authenticity meeting true style. Its latest collection has a rugged look, combining casual trends with inventive features. Modern materials and distinctive details reflect the young spirit of the label.

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AUGUST 2013 | GENT | SELECT | 54

SELECT Bringing together some of the key names in contemporary menswear, Select returns for another season with more new signings to whet your buying appetite.

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 GABICCI VI NTAGE Iconic label Gabicci Vintage returns with a collection inspired by the Northern Soul music scene. A firm favourite with music style leaders and sportsmen, the label is loved for its casual cool style and laid-back designs.

Stand SE26 —

 MALM O Fledging contemporary fashion label Malmo is a new name to discover in the aisles of Select this season. Established in Sweden, the brand creates limited capsule collections each season, with designs screen-printed by hand and using 100 per cent super combed organic cotton.

Comprising tees, sweatshirts and hoodies, Malmo is a name to watch over the coming months.

Stand SE08 —

 BO O M E R ANG Another brand new signing for Select, Scandinavian label Boomerang continues its uK wholesale drive for spring/summer 2014 with its signature collection of functional and versatile separates. Fabrication is key to the new range with the inclusion of chambray, indigo denim, weathered leather, twill and canvas.

Stand SE04 —

 E AST C LU B LO NDO N Making its Select debut this August is British label East Club London.

Inspired by the creative oasis and cutting-edge style of East London and the exotic culture of the Far East, the menswear brand combines classic English gentlemen‘s style with refreshing, contemporary design and tailored fits.

Stand SE35 —

AUGUST 2013 | GENT | SELECT | 55

 J U DGE & J U RY British short-order label Judge & Jury is making its show debut at this month’s Select, presenting a selection of its street and urban inspired denims and apparel. Stocked in the likes of London’s Grand Bay Boutique and urban Menswear in Cheshire, the brand focuses on its strong outerwear category for the new season with the inclusion of the classic hooded duffle coat, available in a variety of colour options.

Stand SE18 —

 FAR AH VI NTAGE Farah was founded in the 20s, but it wasn’t until the 80s that it reached cult status after being adopted as the label of choice by the Mods, Skins and Rockabillies. Today, the Farah Vintage line, which includes apparel and accessories, draws upon its heritage to produce distinctive and well-cut clothes for a new generation to build their own style.

Stand SE16 —

 I NK K AS Making its Select debut this season, Inkkas is a footwear label dedicated to producing footwear with a conscience. The brand hand-makes its range in its Lima workshop, using only South American textiles and the skills of local artisans. Furthermore, a percentage of the proceeds from each sale are donated to helping preserve and protect the Amazon rainforest.

Stand SE05 —

 W RANGLER Iconic denim label Wrangler returns to Select with its footwear range of work style boots and shoes. The jeans label was first made in 1943 and has become synonymous with uS culture, reflecting the “American way”. The brand launched its footwear range in the late 80s with its iconic yellow tan boot, and produces the same top-quality shoes and boots from the finest leathers and nubuck materials.

Stand SE09 —

>>>

AUGUST 2013 | GENT | SELECT | 56

 PALL ADI U M Palladium offers an extended men’s footwear offer for spring/summer 2014, comprising designs inspired by the brand’s own archives.

Stonewashes make a return for the new season, while popular silhouettes from seasons gone by also make a reappearance.

Palladium also adds fresh new designs to its athletic-inspired Sports Line, alongside new low-profile silhouette Slim LR, which makes its debut for spring.

Stand SE03 —  GU I DE LO NDO N Guide London celebrates its 25th anniversary this season.

The label has come a long way since its humble East End beginnings, and is now a total-look brand. Its new offering includes everything from shirts, tailoring, trousers, knitwear and coats with a strong focus on detailing.

Stand SE20 —

 LI F E & HE R I TAGE Specialising in traditional blazers with quirky and interesting prints, cuts and textural mixes, British label Life & Heritage joins the list of new and exciting names exhibiting at this season’s show. The brand, which launched earlier this year, presents a strong offering for spring/summer 2014 including the slim-fit single-breasted blazer with contrasting panelling and brushed metal buttons, as well as the modernised quilted blazer option with chequered lapel and front piping.

Stand SE14 —

 PANT HE R E LL A Iconic sock label Pantherella has built quite the cult following since its inception in the late 30s, and will be making its Select debut this edition. Showcasing its spring/summer 2014 offering, the brand is looking to expand into a select number of key accounts through the uK. The new season sees the label return to its roots, with a selection of traditional colours juxtaposed with updated prints and designs. Pantherella will also present its popular stock line, available throughout the year.

Stand SE33 —

 T HE BR I T I SH BE LT C O M PANY With the Made in Britain label seeing a resurgence of late, there is no better time for The British Belt Company to make its Select debut. Stemming from the Arnold Wills & Co family run business in Rutland, the label presents a selection of premium British leathers and fabrics, including waxed canvas fabric from Halley Stevensons, Dundee.

Stand SE35 — >>>

AUGUST 2013 | GENT | MODA | 58

WHAT’S ON AT MOdA With live catwalks, industry debates, seminars and social events, this season’s Moda is as much about business as it is about brands.

Download the Moda App today and make sure you don’t miss a thing at Moda. Visit moda-uk.co.uk or search for ‘Moda events’ in your App store.

BIg LIVE MENSWEAR dEBATE Monday 12 August, 12.00pm. Hall 20 Catwalk Theatre Don’t miss the launch of the fashion industry’s most lively and insightful debates to be held this season. Join in discussions about the issues affecting your business or simply pull up a seat and listen in.

Independent retailers Steve Cochrane of Psyche, Middlesbrough, and Paul Monks of Purple Menswear, Harpenden, among others will discuss on stage the place of the menswear independent in the new retail landscape – looking at how some of the best indies are changing the way they do business to secure their place on tomorrow’s high street. There will also be Big Live Debates for the womenswear and lingerie sectors on the same day in Hall 17, at 10.45am and 12.30pm respectively.

FREE BuSINESS AdVICE yOu CAN’T AFFORd TO MISS Moda has assembled a stellar line-up of business leaders and industry experts to bring you its most comprehensive seminar programme to date. Here is just a taster of what’s on offer over the three days, alongside a host of brand presentations, debates and catwalks. Visit moda-uk.co.uk for the full seminar line-up.

BEECHES ANd HAMPTON MANOR PARTIES Join your peers to socialise and network at one Moda’s two Monday night events. Choose from either fine dining at Hampton Manor or a barbecue at the Beeches.

Both are ticketed events.

Call 01484 846069 or email caroline@modauk.co.uk to book.

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Email marketing on a budget Tuesday 13 August, 11.00, Hall 17, and 13.00, Hall 20 Nick Evans, technical director, Extra Mile Communications Boost your business’ profit and profile through email marketing with Nick’s guide to communicating to a range of different customers, whilst keeping costs low and making each email count.

getting your business online Monday 12 August, 15.00, Hall 20 Warren Knight, CEO, Gloople This seminar is a must-attend for anyone thinking of opening an online store or looking to improve online sales.

Warren Knight will share his top tips for showcasing your product in the best light.

Succeeding in the digital decade Tuesday 13 August, 11.00, Hall 20 Andrew McClelland, chief operations & policy officer, IMRG

Zero moment of truth Sunday 11 August, 14.15, Hall 20 Martin O’Toole, commercial director, Coolpink Digital

10 steps to visual retail success Sunday 11 August, 12.00, Hall 20 Eve Reid, director & founder, Metamorphosis Group

Learn how to embrace the new digital age. Retail is evolving faster than ever and this seminar will identify the challenges and opportunities of an increasing digital society and the effect it has on consumer buying habits.

Martin O’Toole will discuss today’s marketing model, changes in consumer behaviour and the need for brands to rapidly adapt in order to stay ahead.

Discover the secret to maximising your sales through the art of visual merchandising in this dynamic and inspirational seminar.

LIVE CATWALk SHOWS

CHILL OuT IN THE FAB LOuNgE Make sure to pass by the FAB Plaza in Moda Accessories and chat to the FAB team stationed close by on stand R51. Find out how membership of FAB, a division of BIRA, can benefit your business.

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Be at the pulse of what’s on trend for the new season with Moda’s dedicated catwalk shows, highlighting the key looks from across the halls.

Returning to Hall 20 will be the dedicated urban & contemporary, men’s lifestyle & tailoring and footwear & accessories catwalk shows, while Hall 17 will showcase the best looks across fashion, evening & occasionwear and lingerie & swimwear. See the Moda website or the Moda App for a full schedule.

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Exhibiting at Moda Hall 20 Stand T5

sales@azor.co.uk T: 0208 773 8444

AUGUST 2013 | DENIM & STREET | CONTENTS | 61

D E N I M

&

S T R E E T

SOMETHINg FOR THE WEEkENd? British brand Weekend Offender continues its reign as the go-to label for the lad about town. And with a slightly more trend-driven twist than previous seasons, spring/summer 2014 welcomes bold prints and colourways while still retaining its signature sharp cuts and premium fabrics.

Sub-cultures remain a strong focus for the brand this season, with key influences deriving from music, films, football and youth cultures past and present. Outerwear plays a major part of the latest Weekend Offender offering, with key styles including the bomber jacket, featuring rib trim and heavily printed “dive” lining detail.

Other key surface patterns include a monochrome animal print, alongside bright, vivid parrot and tropical island options. New introductions to the spring/summer 2014 collection include a lightweight loop-back fleece with a sun-bleached finish and slim-fit trousers in denim and cotton.

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62

Product news

70

What’s happening in denim and street

64 66

25 years later Celebrating Boxfresh’s quarter of a century in style

68

Profiling some of the freshest names to hit the surf, skate and sports

Body poppin’ Bright colours reign king for a/w 13

Franklin’ speaking Franklin & Marshall on driving forward its wholesale division

Flip show this season

72

Trending worldwide The trends and key styles to emerge from Bread & Butter Berlin

AUGUST 2013 | DENIM & STREET | PRODUCT | 62

PROduCT NEWS Inside menswear.

J O I N T HE C RU

W HE N I N RO M E Footwear label House of Montague was founded last year and is the brainchild of Danish designer Martin Ahn. Discovered by the MWB team at this season’s Pitti uomo, the brand presents a spring/summer 2014 collection steeped in Roman history. Italian craftsmanship is blended with clean, directional Scandinavian design to create a collection comprising technical prints embossed onto leather, marble-infused leather surfaces, luxe suede, pony hair, python leather, nubuck and gold detailing.

A romanticist at heart, Ahn named each shoe in the range after a former girlfriend, with Cecilie, Frederikke, Malene, Rozanna and Julie all receiving a timeless salute.

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BI G BU C K S Denim-focused streetwear label Bucks & Co launches its latest collection Modernist Hunter for autumn/winter 2013.

Made up of tailored denims, available in a range of washes and fits, as well as street-inspired items such as hoods and sweats, each piece incorporates hunting details. Concealed pockets, hidden bullet holders, d-rings (attachments for hunter’s id) and reinforced pocketing and stitching can be found throughout the collection.

With three key fits, the slim-fit Fox, the tapered Game and the straight-legged Hound, the collection is a hybrid of trend-led shapes and contemporary details and finishes.

—

Ethical denim brand Monkee Genes is set to launch a new denim range entitled Monkee Cru – a new premium range that uses selvedge denims in more tailored silhouettes – for spring/summer 2014.

The name Cru was chosen from the French translation to describe adjectives such as raw, vintage and rare, with the eight-piece capsule collection designed to drawn upon all three things. Featuring raw selvedge with a crisp finish to prevent the denim from fraying, detail comes from stitching, rivets and turn-ups. Manufactured in the brand’s signature ethical manner, the collection has an authentic undercurrent running throughout.

—

BRANd TO WATCh

ALPHA INDuSTRIES growing from a small-town label, designing and producing jackets for uS Air Force pilots, into an internationally recognised brand is no mean feat, but that is exactly what Alpha Industries can claim fame to doing.

Today, not only does the brand manufacture and sell its products throughout the world, but is also the premier supplier of jackets for the uS Air Force, Navy, Army and Marine Corps. Its signature MA1 and M65 inspired flight jackets are currently stocked across Europe, Russia, the uS and the uK, counting Selfridges, Asos, Birmingham menswear destination Autograph, Village Bicycle in London and Hip in Leeds as key accounts.

With an average wholesale price of £60, spring/summer 2014 brings with it a selection of technical innovations with a focus on colour and print.

In terms of inspiration, Alpha Industries continues to look to all elements of military, while drawing influences from its archives through to modern culture. www.alphaindustries.com —

AUGUST 2013 | DENIM & STREET | PRODUCT | 63

ON TREND

RAdAR

Seasonal extras: Printed pumps

Spotlighting style.

1

2

3

4

5

1: BUCKETFEET price on request 01873 855379 2: QUIKSILVER £18 020 7392 4020 3: POINTER £22 020 7033 4193 4: ELEMENTS £34.43 07920 195942 5: FRENCH CONNECTION £55 020 3318 2521

FuTuRE CuT CLOTHS ESTABLISHED: 2013 — HISTORY: Launched by economics graduate Rohan Bassi, following the lack of job opportunities after leaving university, Bassi followed his dream of launching his own label, and Future Cut Cloths was conceived earlier this year.

— SIGNATURE STYLE: Combining a fusion of high-end fashion and streetwear, the result is an eclectic menswear label pushing the boundaries of everyday style.

ESTABLISHED: 1959 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Military Air Force inspired flight jackets focused on the MA1 and M65 styles.

— HISTORY: Founded in Knoxville, Tennessee, the brand initially designed jackets for US Air Force pilots before expanding into the wholesale market in the mid-70s, alongside producing garments for the Army, Navy and Marine Corps.

—

In what founder Rohan Bassi deems an “already oversaturated streetwear market”, his fledging label Future Cut Cloths is set to make waves in the menswear market with its blend of high-end fashion and casual men’s apparel. Making its debut at this season’s Moda, the brand is looking to open a number of select key accounts across the country with its spring/summer 2014 range.

Mainly knit-based, the collection draws inspiration from the transition period between the Renaissance and Baroque periods, with each garment utilising jersey and fleece with quality mesh, ribstop and woven fabrics.

Key pieces include long, oversized tees and baseball jackets with Renaissance prints, oversized sweats with nylon overlays, tropical floral print bomber sweats, skinny joggers, drop crotch shorts and accessories such as socks and headbands. Embellishment, meanwhile, comes in the form of innovative printing techniques and embroidery, giving the collection an almost avant-garde finish.

For sales enquiries contact Bad Pennie Agency on 0161 272 9381.

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AUGUST 2013 | DENIM & STREET | PRODUCT | 64

VOI JEANS £20 01772 841988

SUPREMEBEING £10 01954 782679

ALPHA INDUSTRIES £64 01869 366580

BOdY POPPIN’ Pop colours are set to dominate the street and denim sector this season, offering a brighter alternative to the traditional autumnal palette.

— QUIKSILVER £26 020 7392 4020

BENCH PRICE ON REQUEST 07795 264405

LUKE £13 01869 366580

ALPINESTARS £12 0039 4235286

47 BRAND PRICE ON REQUEST 01908 488623 POINTER £22 020 7033 4193 CONVERSE PRICE ON REQUEST 020 8731 3500

Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale

AUGUST 2013 | DENIM & STREET | PROFILE | 66

TWENTY FIVE YEARS STRONg Boxfresh hits its 25th anniversary next year and in celebration has launched a capsule collection called quarter for s/s 14. As one of the original British “streetwear” labels – launched in 1989 – and with interest in streetwear peaking once again, it seems a prime time for the brand to reclaim its former glory, writes Tom Bottomley.

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AUGUST 2013 | DENIM & STREET | PROFILE | 67

Boxfresh was one of the original British streetwear brands to emerge in the late 80s. It was founded by Roger Wade – long since departed – who started printing his own T-shirts, originally selling them at Greenwich and Camden Market, before starting to supply a number of uK independents. The offer grew from just tees, and, from the early 90s, was starting to be sold in Japan. By 1995, it was licensed in the uS, not bad considering the long list of established American streetwear brands that were massive at the time, such as Stüssy, X-Large, Fresh Jive, Supreme and Fuct.

Boxfresh itself was very much influenced by uS streetwear in its early incarnation, the name even deriving from hip-hop slang for a pair of trainers being “fresh out of the box.” These days it’s owned by the Pentland Group, which bought it in 2006 and, with all eyes on streetwear as a growth category once again, you can bet your bottom dollar it will be aiming to bring its notquite-so-fresh brand back into the spotlight for its 25th anniversary in 2014. Indeed, the capsule Quarter collection (as in quarter of a century), consisting of 12 pieces of apparel and four footwear styles, will help to hammer home the fact that it is one of the “originals” that has stood the test of time, despite having travelled a bumpy road here and there. These days it’s stocked in the likes of Footasylum, uSC, Scotts, Ark and Schuh, along with many independents.

Gavin Skelton, head apparel designer at Boxfresh, says, “Boxfresh is enjoying the late 80s and early 90s streetwear renaissance at the moment and we are working on a look and feel for sports lifestyle inspired clothing, which blends urban streetwear with European sophistication.

“We really feel the Quarter collection has set the benchmark for product moving forward,” he continues. “We have explored new areas in cut, our fits are looser and oversized – with longer-length tees and shirts with extended tails.

Sweats are made out of super heavyweight loop-back fabric, and there are jackets with real technical qualities, and reflective 3M is featured throughout.”

Skelton believes Pentland has been instrumental in the growth and global scale of the Boxfresh business today. He says it has been able to develop over a period of time at Pentland, while

The 25th capsule line was retaining its overall look, feel apparently well-received at and “brand DNA”, a term so Bread & Butter, by uK buyers widely used these days. He as well as internationally. As a says, “With regard to the uK result, the brand has managed market, the brand has been to open some new “selective” quiet over the past few doors in the uK, and is looking years but, with our current forward to doing the same product, we feel it is a key across Europe. The sales time for the label to claim its books won’t close until 10 stake in the uK market once September, so there is plenty again. We are even planning a of time to see it. The label is standalone flagship in central also showing at Gallery in London within the next couple Copenhagen on 8-10 August. “Germany is our of years.”

Indeed, the brand did used to have a shop in biggest territory outside of the uK,” says Skelton.

Covent Garden – right on the Seven Dials – which “We sell mainly footwear with a small growth in housed other brands that complemented its own. apparel, too. Other key territories include France That was opened in the brand’s early heyday – and Canada.”

For the 25th anniversary celebrations there 1992 in fact – but it’s been a fair few years since it was shut. Skelton remembers the shop very well are plans to create 25 events throughout 2014. as one you’d always want to go and have a look in “They will span style, culture, music and art,” says when doing the rounds of menswear shops in the Skelton. “Pulling inspiration from our past, but also capital. He says, “I think Boxfresh has had a looking towards the future. We are also going to rollercoaster journey over the past 25 years, but continue our Quarter product offer in a ‘part two’ to still be here in such difficult economic times, offer for a/w 14.”

There is also the continued collaboration line and to be growing, is a massive achievement.

“As a teenager I knew the brand as just a with Passarella Death Squad this a/w, which gives store in Covent Garden, and to see it today as a another angle to the label, incorporating influences global business is fantastic,” continues Skelton. from both brands making it accessible yet “I’m really proud to be a part of that journey. My directional. Key pieces include a unique soft drumperception towards the brand before I started dyed lamb’s leather biker jacket, dramatic trench wasn’t the most positive, but I always believed the coat, contemporary take on a classic denim jacket label hadn’t scratched the surface of its full and camo print shirting. There are also fine Merino potential. I saw the role of designing at Boxfresh knits, hoodies, sweats and printed tees. And for as a massive challenge that would only bring out s/s 13 there was a collaboration with Dashing the best of my capabilities. I am proud of what the Tweeds, featuring bomber jackets and vulcanised team has achieved in the past three years, and it’s hi-tops in great tweed fabrics entwined with 3M thread, once again to create a reflective material, only going to get better and better.”

The Quarter collection highlights the brand’s perfect for wearing when cycling in the dark, but looking equally good when off uS sports and street the bike. inspirations, and Skelton “Boxfresh is enjoying There’s plenty going on explains the reason for the late 80s and early for a brand that’s managed to “touching on a uS tip” is stick around longer than many because the original Boxfresh 90s streetwear from the heady days of the shop sold then “exclusive to renaissance at the late 80s and early 90s original the uK” uS labels such as British streetwear contenders.

Carhartt and Penfield. “We moment, and we are Keeping it fresh is what it’s wanted to celebrate the working on a look all about. beginning stage of the Boxfresh journey,” he says. www.boxfresh.co.uk and feel for sports

lifestyle inspired clothing, which blends urban streetwear with European sophistication”

AUGUST 2013 | DENIM & STREET | PROFILE | 68

FRANkLIN SPEAkINg Back at Bread & Butter for the first time in five years with a 1,800 sq ft stand featuring a basketball court – and players – Franklin & Marshall clearly has something to shout about. Tom Bottomley discovers what it means for the uk market from Two Agent See sales director grant Ashdown.

— grant Ashdown, sales director at Two Agent See, which has been fortunate enough to have carried Franklin & Marshall in the uk for the last 10 years, has previously consistently seen growth of 50 per cent year on year in the uk.

However, he nows says business is “levelling out” to 15-20 per cent growth, something he considers “not bad for the current difficult trading conditions.”

He will have no doubt been pleased then that the Italian brand, inspired by all things Americana and uS college/sports heritage, was back with a bang at the recent Bread & Butter show, creating quite a stir with its basketball court complete with players. And for s/s 14 there are new sub collections to show buyers, so it’s not just about the Classic range that has previously sold so well.

“S/s 14 is the first season we have introduced sub categories in the mainline collection,” says Ashdown. Both the men’s and women’s collections have been split into the following categories: Campus, Varsity, Alumni and Lab. Campus is described as the “DNA collection of Franklin & Marshall.” It features branded hooded sweatshirts and track pants in the key varsity colours – with the inclusion of new colours for s/s 14, such as flame orange and light blue.

Then there is Varsity, which includes a line of mesh basketball tops (hence the court on the stand), shorts and jackets lined with soft jersey.

Sport plays a big part in this sub-category. Alumni is for Franklin & Marshall’s slightly older customers, and colours are muted and graphics

less obvious. Pastel shades and Hawaiian prints are prominent with this collection. “We can target a higher age range with this offer,” says Grant.

“We understand our consumer and know what sells well. The Classic collection has always been a big seller in the uK, however our customers are also growing up with the brand, so we wanted to be able to offer them a more mature collection as well. So we are also working towards increasing the label’s range of chinos, knits and shirts to showcase a different side to Franklin & Marshall.

The brand is performing well in the uK despite the current climate, with key stockists such as Harrods, John Lewis, Footasylum, Choice and Zee & Co. So it’s good to be able to offer them something new and extended options.”

The fourth sub category for s/s 14 is Lab, Franklin & Marshall’s “experimental collection.” It features bolder patterns and prints, as well as new, innovative finishing techniques. The main theme for the menswear range is 90s surf, further proof that the whole surf/skate/street scene is very much back on the radar.

The summer collections also see the inclusion of swimwear for both men and women.

The men’s swim shorts are available in classic and “short fit”, in either all-over prints or block colours with small printed logo. And beach towels are adorned with sports graphics and Hawaiian prints.

There is also a growing line of accessories within the label’s offer, as it seeks to utilise its stand-out brand logo. “Accessories are certainly showing signs of growth in the uK, which we are pleased

about,” says Ashdown. Franklin offers bags, hats, towels, belts and iPad and iPhone cases.”

Ashdown says that the brand’s aim for 2013 is to consolidate its position on the European and Middle East markets with new cooperation agreements and the opening of corners and shops throughout the continent. It will continue to ascertain Franklin & Marshall as an internationally recognised brand, not bad considering it was originally conceived with the finding of an old blue college sweatshirt on a stall selling second-hand clothes at a New York market. Italian entrepreneurs Giuseppe Albarelli and Andrea Pensiero, who founded Franklin & Marshall in 1999, have certainly done well to keep the momentum of the brand going, too, and Ashdown must be grateful for that as it’s certainly done well on these shores.

“Most of our accounts have been performing well due to the brand now being so established in the uK market,” he says. “The products are getting stronger and stronger each season, and the slight drop in prices has also helped the sell-through.

Franklin & Marshall also remains 92 per cent “made in Italy”, which is a strong unique point to the consumer. I also think consumers are becoming unresponsive to disposable low-priced fashion, especially in menswear, and quality is crucial.” It’s been said before but, for a brand still growing, it’s an essential outlook, and good quality is something Franklin & Marshall has always strived to achieve. S/s 14 gives them added dimensions to tempt buyers and consumers, and that could see Ashdown’s uK sales growth take a rise once again.

Style featured: Bromwich featuring XL Extralight Technology

Preview the new Lotus SS14 footwear collection at the following exhibitions: Ffany, New York - August 5th-7th 2013, Hilton, Avenue of the Americas, 14th Floor, Room 1450 Moda, Birmingham - August 11th-13th 2013, Hall 20, Stand P25 GDS, D端sseldorf - September 13th-15th 2013, Hall 6, Stand A29 www.lotusshoes.co.uk

AUGUST 2013 | DENIM & STREET | FLIP | 70

FLIP The uk’s key show for street, surf and action sports labels returns for spring/summer 2014, presenting statement tees, graphic prints and innovative denims among other key trends.

—

 ANI M AL Surf label Animal makes its return to Flip following two successful seasons since the show’s debut edition Launching a brand new collection for s/s 14, the range has been created to reflect the label’s heritage and identity.

Skate shoes and flip-flops are key for both men and women, while the label’s apparel line showcases a collection of board shorts, vests, tees, hoodies, denim and shirts. Fresh graphics, textures and refined fits are introduced for the new season, alongside a new and vibrant colour palette.

Stand FL60 —

 REEF

 BJ O R N BO RG

A new signing to this season’s Flip, surfwear label Reef brings a bohemian style and beach-loving spirit with a vibrant range of washed-out brights, toned-down neons and vintage-inspired Hawaiian prints across its men’s collection. The range is designed to work from the beach to the street and reflects the brand’s commitment to high-quality products at affordable price points.

Stand FL38 —

Making its Flip debut this season, popular underwear label Bjorn Borg presents both its women’s and menswear collections at the show. Taking inspiration from the earth’s powers and Mother Nature, buyers can expect clashing colours, vivid prints, abstract motifs and unusual combinations. One of the brand’s key lines for s/s 14 is its Fun range, combining Bjorn Borg’s signature use of bold colourways with unique prints.

Stand FL80 —

AUGUST 2013 | DENIM & STREET | FLIP | 71

 M.O.D Denim label M.O.D returns to Flip this season, presenting contemporary and trend-driven collections for both the men’s and womenswear market. Distinctive styles, innovative cuts and unusual details are key this season, while fabric once again plays an important role with the use of exclusive materials and various washes. Complementing the collection is a range of accessories, from bags to shoes and belts.

Stand FL50 —  LOW LI F E Lowlife returns to Flip this season, bringing the waistline to the forefront of fashion with a comprehensive range of belts. Offering accessories for an “eclectic, modern, alternative lifestyle”, Lowlife has been embraced by an ever-expanding family of tattooists, musicians, skaters, snowboarders and BMX bikers. As well as its mainline range, the brand also offers a number of collaborations with action sports names from across the industry.

Stand FL55 —

 SANTA CRUZ Santa Cruz is one of the largest action sports brands in the world, covering the skate, snow and surf industries. What started out as a skateboard deck company has now evolved to include a full apparel, accessories and footwear range. The brand will showcase its specialist and active sports inspired clothing collection including tees, hoodies, shirts and shorts, all featuring the iconic Santa Cruz logo.

Stand FL54 —

 BI LL ABO NG One of the leading brands in the surfing industry, Billabong promotes an authentic lifestyle and remains true to its board-sport heritage. The label will make a welcome return to the aisles of Flip this month, showcasing its latest range which draws inspiration from its surfing heritage, and includes beach staples such as shorts and tees for men and loose-knit cover-ups, bikinis and dresses for women.

Stand FL44 —

AUGUST 2013 | DENIM & STREET | REVIEW | 72

TRENdINg WORLdWIdE The MWB team was out in full force at this season’s Bread & Butter Berlin to discover the key themes and trends set to dominate street, urban and contemporary menswear come spring/summer 2014.

—  SM ART AR M Y While camouflage returns for another season, this popular print moves away from the traditional streetwear look and into smarter, more structured pieces. Adding a contemporary twist to the classic blazer, single-breasted designs were spotted throughout, modernised with functional and industrial-inspired metal buttons and contrasting stitching.

—

 GLOVERALL

 DUCK AND COVER

 CAMEL ACTIVE

 PREMIUM BY JACK & JONES

 PI C K PO C K E T

 DUCK AND COVER

 NANA JUDY

 WESC

 ANERKJENDT

 ALPHA INDUSTRIES

 SELECTED HOMME

 BJÖRN BORG

Pocket detailing was key throughout the s/s 14 edition of Bread & Butter, with many brands experimenting with colour, print and textural mixes on small surface areas as opposed to complete garments. Perforated foam, leather and denim were prevalent throughout, while abstract graphic prints created focal points on otherwise plain colour-block tees and hooded tops.

—

 AC I D T E ST While flashes of neon were in abundance this season, all-over neon pieces were kept within the slightly more fashion-forward lines as spotted at Alpha Industries.

Hints of bold neon green, yellow and orange colourways, meanwhile, were seen in pocket linings, trimmings, hems and trainer inners.

—  BOXFRESH

AUGUST 2013 | DENIM & STREET | REVIEW | 73

 SHO RT ST R AW

 HUMOR

 NATIVE YOUTH

 WEEKEND OFFENDER

 UCLA

 BOXFRESH

 FQ1924

 RVLT REVOLUTION

Shorts lived up to their name this show season with high-cut designs dominating s/s 14. Running styles were key with drawstring fastenings and mesh linings, while detailing was kept to a minimum and finishes remained simple. In terms of colour and print, blue tones were central, while animal print and graphic illustrations gave the trend added gravitas.

—

 BOM B ALERT Bomber-style jackets continue to be a wardrobe essential, returning for yet another summer season across both the gent and denim sectors.

While sports-inspired detailing including number logos and Americana colour palettes remained prevalent throughout, technical finishes such as waxed outer coatings and quirky digital prints updated the trend for s/s 14.

—

 WESC

 ANI MAL I NST INC T Taking off where camo left, animal print was spotted in various forms across the board this season. From intricate prints in shades of black and grey to contrasting leopard-print panels and sleeves, the trend encompassed an equally as bold approach as its womenswear counterparts.

—  NATIVE YOUTH

 CRIMINAL DAMAGE

 BJÖRN BORG

 WEEKEND OFFENDER

 ANERKJENDT

 NANA JUDY

 EVISU

 PAISLEY PARK Paisley continues to make a comeback with the younger set this season in the form of short-sleeved shirts, jacquard shorts and pocket detailing.

While head-to-toe paisley could be overkill, subtle vintage-washed prints and tone-on-tone palettes enabled the trend to work easily with other wardrobe options.

—  GLOVERALL

AUGUST 2013 | PEOPLE | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 76

COLLECTIVE The people, the places, the products.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK BEAgLE LONdON E2

SIMON SAYS I’m writing this in the hellish heat of a Croydon heatwave. As ever, we’re caught off guard by any form of extreme weather. “Whew wot a scorcher!!” screams the Financial Times and “hot weather boosts seasonal clothing sales” according to The Sun’s headline writers.

— And indeed the blistering good weather is good news for sales. We had a disturbingly large number of polos, but these are now flying out of the stores, and our decision not to go on sale until 1 July is proving to have been sensible. Indeed, I’m starting a/w feeling cautiously optimistic.

I think there’s something in the air; house prices seem to be ticking up, Andy Murray won Wimbledon, and the sun’s out. All good. And although they may seem flippant, throwaway comments, it should be remembered that most recessions – and recoveries – are sentimentdriven. If people feel confident, they’re more inclined to spend. I don’t expect a return to the heady days of the early naughties, but I’m feeling positive enough to be investing in new staff.

I have a friend whose opinion I truly value. He’s an unusual hybrid of accountant mixed with a passion and flair for fashion and an unerring eye for quality. Recently, seeing me run ragged by trying to squeeze an 80hour day into a 12-hour one, he sat me down and asked to me to define what it is, exactly, that I want the Simon Carter brand and business to do.

“You lack focus,” he said. “You spread yourself and the business too thinly.

Analyse what you do best, and concentrate on that for the next five years.

You react too much; plan and strategise more.”

It was a tough lesson to absorb, but he is right, and it really got me thinking. I’m clear that I need to build the brand’s profile more, and to open more stores. And this is where the new staff come in. I’ve recruited a marketing manager and a marketing intern. I’ve appointed an independent stores sales manager and hired a property consultant. For a smaller business like mine, these are bold moves, but essential to take the brand forward. Meanwhile, the most pressing issue of the day is the quest for ice cubes...

Simon Carter is the CEO of the eponymous brand and retail stores.

Located under two of hoxton Overground’s converted railway arches, Beagle is one of many East London hotspots in which to grab a bite to eat and enjoy a natter. The latter of which, when surrounded by industrial surfaces and large open spaces, masks the sound of passing trains above perfectly.

Beagle was launched in April by electronic DJ duo Krankbrothers, aka Danny and Kieran Clancy, and the pair have created a menu that more than lives up to its cool setting. While style can often overtake substance somewhat in Hoxton, Beagle restaurant/bar/coffee shop offers a refreshing alternative. Set in a raw environment of exposed brickwork and stainless steel surfaces, the lefthand arch plays host to a small coffee takeaway counter, while the right-hand side opens into a spacious eatery and bar. Menu choices include smoked pig’s cheek, Dorset crab tagliolini and gooseberry crumble and vanilla ice cream.

— PLAN B

Almost every boy dreams of being a footballer, and I was no different. My dream got as far as becoming a semi-professional goalkeeper at 16 when I signed for Salford City FC. Obviously Manchester united’s was the goal I wanted to be in.

JON POLL OWNER, AGENT C

At 19, I ventured into my second passion and started working for Brooklands Menswear in Manchester. For a while, my career in fashion co-existed alongside my weekend football cameos. However, my progression up the football league tables was short-lived and it wasn’t long before the social side of the fashion industry hindered my performance on the pitch. My full focus soon shifted to fashion and, after working for almost 10 years with French Connection, I opened Agent C in 2008. I’ve no regrets, but often think “what could have been”. I still go and watch the Reds though!

—

AUGUST 2013 | PEOPLE | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 77

TOP TWEETS

CLOSET CONFIdENTIAL NIgEL LAWSON CO-OWNER, OI POLLOI, MANChESTER If I had to choose my most treasured posession, firstly it would have to be my Adidas hawaii trainers. They’re tan suede with a gum sole from around 1978/79. They’re the exact opposite of showing off because the stripes on the side are the same colour as the suede uppers. So they don’t shout, ‘“Oh look at me, I’ve got Adidas on.” They were actually part of a series that Adidas did called Island and they were all sort of sand or sea colours. They were big in America, and I originally bought a pair in Allsports in Stockport for around £12.99. A dead stock pair could go for about $600 today, because they’re so rare. They did some re-issues, but they chose the wrong ones to do from the series.

— Number two would have to be the Lacoste polo shirt. It comes in about 4,000 different colours. It’s impossible to say you’ve got them all. I’ve got about 67! I first got into them when I was on holiday in Majorca in 1980, when I met this cockney lad. I had a Fred Perry on and he said, “They’re crap, haven’t you got any Lacoste?”

So I hunted for them when I got home and bought one, even though they were about £24 – twice the price of a Fred Perry at the time. It was the most luxurious, over-the-top thing I’d ever seen. I wanted a pink one, because that was the coolest one to get at the time, but my mum said, “You’re not having a pink shirt – they’re for girls.” So I bought a navy blue one, but it had thin rainbow pinstripes on it.

— My jean-cut straight-leg Levi’s cords would have to be on my list of favourites, too. White Tab, originally from the 60s, though I think they made them up to the early 80s. They don’t have the arcuate stitching on the back pocket or a leather patch. They don’t do them any more. I’ve got around four pairs, though they’re difficult to track down. My Fjallraven Telemark jacket would be another choice from my wardrobe. It looks like a M-65, but the Swedish army version. The ones from the early 70s are amazing, and I’ve got one of those.

—

Without Prejudice @WP_menswear If you wear the right #suit , you know never know where you might end up #recruitthesuit Stand-Out.net @StandOutNet “What lies behind us and what lies before us are tiny matters compared to what lies within us.” – Anon The Companion @BonVsCompanion And our gin shelf grows... 2 brand new English gins. Langtons & Langleys. Is it gin o clock yet? #welovegin Bryan Morel PR @BryanMorelPR “I declare after all there is no enjoyment like reading!” #JaneAusten we’ll certainly enjoy spending our tenners come 2017 @RoyalMintUK Anonymous If Luther’s coat doesn’t get its own spin-off series I’ll be writing a strongly worded letter to Points of View. #luther #lutherscoattales Grey Fox @GreyFoxBlog Gentlemen, we are surrounded by unbelievable #madeinbritain energy and entrepreneurship in #menswear – let’s tap into it!

Jacket Required @JacketReqd17 Jul It’s a lemon & lime Mr Freeze kind of day. #thesimplethings

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AUGUST 2013 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 79

ThE BOTTOMLEY LINE

© Paul Mowatt

MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

hOLIdAY BOdY ShOCk And so the time is here, the final countdown. Yes, as this issue goes to press I’ll be on my holidays.

Ten days of sun, sand, sangria and something else beginning with “s” in Majorca – not been there for many years, but I might be starting a trend for its return to British holiday-making glory not seen since the 70s and 80s.

As my last swimming shorts bought weren’t far off that era (actually that’s not too much of an over statement!), I thought I’d better go and invest in some. But not wanting to splash serious cash on, well, something that’s going to get more than splashed, I had a hunt around on the high street and found some natty printed numbers, just the right length with a pocket that fastens properly too, at good old M&S. Yes, the shop that seems to always get mullered in the press for carrying the wrong kind of stock for women, and not understanding its customers (see story below). I bought a decent jacket for my brother there, too, which was more of a guilty purchase because I’d nicked a military jacket meant for him sent from my sister in Seattle with the notion that I’d replace it with one more suited for him. He’s not as bothered as me about his clothes, but it was cunning of me all the same.

Can’t let a decent jacket go to waste, after all.

Anyway, back to the holiday planning and how it’s all gone wrong on the beach body front...

I had got it down that I would be hitting the gym several times before stepping out onto golden sands, but it hasn’t happened. Not even once. I’ve been tied to my laptop, writing pieces for our wellpraised MWB (well it certainly was by any retailer and brand I spoke to at Pitti) back-to-back so I could head for the sun. How typical that’s it’s been scorchio here and will be until I get back. And I’ve made excuse after excuse for not going to the gym in the evening. The Guinness extra cold diet hasn’t been working too well either. Well, it’s been working very well, just not for a beach waistline.

Still, if I mix in with the 20-pints-a-day Geordies, I might get away with it (and may even look slim).

I certainly won’t be looking anything like the guy in the picture from Okun beachwear’s new lookbook though, that’s for damn sure. Okun has some cool African print swimming shorts, and is now doing tees and printed slip-on shoes, so a good one to

 OKUN BEACHWEAR

 GINETTA LAUNCHES MENSWEAR LABEL

keep an eye out for by the way. They also showed at Pitti for the first time but, unfortunately for them, their new samples didn’t turn up until day two – having been mistakenly sent to London.

Needless to say I won’t be getting a call from them for their next lookbook on my return, tan or no tan.

RACINg BRANd gINETTA LAuNChES LIFESTYLE MENSWEAR LABEL It’s not yet wholesaling, though that might come later, but I thought I’d give a quick mention to the new Ginetta Lifestyle menswear collection, which is 100 per cent manufactured in the uK. Its website, www.ginettalifestyle.com, tells the history behind the label, images, factories it is working with and showcases its first men’s retail capsule collection. Established in 1958, Ginetta has had some of the most famous faces in motor sport (Hill, Mansell to name a couple) representing it both on and off the race circuit. Each piece in the range is a limited-edition, fitted with a replica chassis plate, numbered and signed in metal taken

from an original Ginetta racing car from the 50s.

The clothing certainly won’t be as desirable as the car, but could be worth a look.

M&S gETS ROASTINg FROM ShAREhOLdERS It made me chuckle to read that shareholders told Marks & Spencer bosses recently that some stores are like a throwback to the classic 70s BBC sitcom Are You Being Served? One investor was applauded when she claimed some of the shops reminded her of Grace Brothers, the fictitious oldfashioned department store. The chaotic layout, and absence of staff to help customers, also came in for stinging criticism as stakeholders received further gloom about sales in the company’s vital clothing sector. The gripe about lack of staff certainly ran true for me, too, when I went into my local Kingston branch recently for some swimming shorts and a jacket. But, unlike M&S, if I’d have been eyeing up the swimwear in Grace Brothers, Mr Humphries would have been over in a shot.

AUGUST 2013 | DIRECTORY | 80

BIg SIZES

CASuALWEAR

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MODA 11-13 AUGUST STAND SE32 eastclub.co.uk | juan@eastclub.co.uk | T + 44 (0)20 3556 4460 | M + 44 (0)77 0362 5188

AUGUST 2013 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 82

LAST ORdERS WITH... kEVIN STONE Brand manager for iconic menswear label Baracuta, podcast fashion adviser and avid Leeds united supporter, kevin Stone catches up with MWB’s Victoria Jackson to look back at his early days in menswear and the shopping haunts he can now be found scouring the rails of.

— Place of birth: Harrogate Lives now: Devizes, Wiltshire Date of birth: 02/09/61 Twitter: @kevstone61 Instagram: kevstone61

When, and how, did you make your first foray into fashion?

I started as a Saturday boy in Army & Navy stores in Harrogate, before working with Stuart Shackleton (Old Glory) and Guy Hudson (Lynx) at Primo’s in Leeds and then as a management trainee at the start of the George Davies Next revolution circa 1984. you’re quite the tweeter, how important do you think it is for retailers and brands to embrace social media?

I am a great advocate of social media – it’s so important that it’s part of the marketing mix for retailers and brands. It’s a great way to engage with your customer and the consumer and to have a dialogue and engagement. But, remember, it’s not a million likes you need, it’s 100 new customers.

British menswear is having a resurgence right now – especially on a global level – why do you think this is?

Well we’ve always made good product, coupled with the uK having the most creative subcultures in fashion, from the 60s, mod, punk, Brit pop and so on, and there are always new kids on the block who are changing things up and challenging the paradigm. The launch of London Collections is further advancing our reputation and is a global advert for all things British. you recently became involved in online podcast The Modcast, how did that come about?

The Modcast was started by DJs Eddie Piller and Dean Rutland and produced by Sarah Bolshi. I got involved after actor Jonny Owen left to concentrate on his latest film, Svengali ( I urge you to go and see it). I had been involved with putting together some sponsorship for the program and then stepped in as the “fashion expert”. It’s been great fun, and we’ve had Olympic athlete Sir Bradley Wiggins and actor Martin Freeman to name but a few in the studio. My personal favourite to interview for the show would be the Modfather himself, Mr Paul Weller.

In terms of fashion, which era do you think produced the best style icons?

I think there are style icons in every era, but my personal favourites both came into their own in

the 60s, early 70s, namely Steve McQueen and Paul Newman.

Where could we find you clothes shopping?

If I’m shopping online it’s Oi Polloi. I love its aesthetic and the service is great, but you can’t beat the retail environment. I tend to do most of my shopping and browsing in London, and my standout shops are Trunk, Goodhood, Anthem, Garbstore, American Classics, The Content Store and Stuarts – stores that are curated and reflect the personalities or beliefs of the buyers.

And fashion mistakes you wish to mention?

Too many.

What’s your most treasured possession?

I haven’t got one; I’ve got lots of stuff I like, but my family and friends are the things I treasure the most. you’ve turned your hand to many things in menswear, what’s next?

Firstly, I must say it’s never a dull day working in this field, and lots of opportunities present themselves. With age, you get to choose to work on nice projects with nice people, which is important. There are one or two new things bubbling at the moment that are very exciting, but mum’s the word.

QuICk-FIRE QuESTIONS — Who is your mentor?

No one person but a collection of people whose judgment I trust — I wish I could resist…

Trainers — Growing up I wanted to be…

A footballer, and as that dream faded an architect, and as that dream faded I ended up here — One piece of advice I’d give to my 16-year-old self would be…

Work hard, play hard and be kind — Who’d play you in a film?

Peter Sellers —