JUNE 2013 — ISSUE 228 WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk
£6.95
— THE FUTURE OF THE HIGH STREET Highlights from Bira’s retailer conference —
— SWEDISH MINIMALISM Filippa K’s successful 20 years in business —
— MAKE A DATE The key shows for spring/summer 2014 —
— FASHION SCOOP A look at what the show has in store this season —
Apt Collections Ltd 路 Tel. 0207 580 3202
05 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
contents —
regulars
Features
Fashion
7 editor’s comment — 8 neWs — 14 backstage The other side of womenswear — 16 talking point — 60 retail Forum The latest news from the industry — 62 adVice Experts answer your questions — 66 up close and personal With Rosie Fortescue —
18 Q&a With Bolongaro Trevor’s Kait Bolongaro — 32 simply the best Filippa K’s success story — 34 the changing Face oF the high street Highlights from last month’s Bira conference — 38 exhibition calendar The key shows for s/s 14 — coVer: moat —
22 style File — 24 10 oF the best Crop tops — 29 timeless On-trend watches to get in-store now — 30 Fashion radar — 49 Where art meets Fashion Taking a look at the next edition of Scoop International — 58 bread & butter berlin WWB previews next month’s show —
07 WomensWear buyer — june 2013 editor Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com — contributors Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Kirkpatrick laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — sub editor Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — senior advertising sales manager Mina Parmar mina@ras-publishing.com — sales executive Jasprit Sihra jasprit@ras-publishing.com — subscriptions Lydia Bennett lydia.bennett@ite-exhibitions.com — production director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — commercial director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com — reprographics/printing imagedata group 01482 652323
— WWb is published 11 times per year by ras publishing ltd, the old town hall, lewisham road, slaithwaite, huddersfield hd7 5al. call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 — copyright © 2013 WWb magazine limited. all rights reserved. reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. neither ras publishing ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication. —
ras publishing is an ite group plc company a buyer series Fashion business publication WWb is a fashion business publication produced by ras publishing ltd. other titles include mWb and cWb.
comment —
as We are approaching the neW season, most retailers Will be Working out their budgets and buying agendas – but is s/s 14 going to be another huge Financial gamble? — I have to say, I do not envy you, dear retailers, your buying task for s/s 14. While forward ordering has always been risky in terms of tying up your budgets six months in advance, and hoping that further down the line the collections will still reflect the trends and consumer tastes of this fast moving sector, it seems now it’s a lot tougher, thanks to the extreme weather conditions we have been exposed to. The last couple of summers have been more than a wash-out, while autumns and winters have been inconsistent, with anything from unseasonably warm weather to extreme frost. For a fashion shop this is disastrous, as the seasons are no longer what they used to be, making stock and sales forecasting nigh on impossible. Of course, most retailers have long set aside budgets for in-season buying as well as picking more transseasonal styles for their offers, but this only goes so far, and you’d have to have a crystal ball to pre-empt the affect of “unseasonal seasons”. Which begs the question – is the s/s versus a/w divide still relevant in today’s marketplace? Should there still be summer clothes in s/s, and winter clothes in a/w, or should retailers have a selection of bikinis and tees in-store in winter, and warm coats and boots during summer, too? And, furthermore, what is the role of suppliers in all this – do they have to rethink the way they
structure their collections, too, and move away from the seasonal model? We have asked a number of key retailers exactly these questions, and their views are summarised in our news report on page 8. On a different note, I had the pleasure of attending last month’s High Street Conference, held by industry body Bira, which saw a line-up of speakers from across retail and academia discuss the changing shape and future of the high street. While all agreed that change is apace and inevitable, the general consensus was that this change should be embraced, and that it does not mean the end of the high street – just the end of how we’ve known it, and that this also brings opportunities for the independent sector. You can find a full summary of the day on page 34. As always, I would be interested to hear your views and experiences, so please get in touch by either emailing me or tweeting @wwbmagazine, or visit our Facebook page.
Isabella Griffiths, editor
08 WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk — JUNE 2013
NEWS —
WEATHERING THE STORM Following the harshest and longest winter in decades and a washed-out spring, retailers are reviewing their buying agendas for s/s 14, and considering whether the traditional seasons are still relevant for today’s fashion indies. —
Ilse Jacobsen
While the beginning of June has seen some much-needed rays of sunshine, for most indies spring/summer has come too late to make any significant impact on the season. The prolonged harsh winter and unusually cold and wet spring have left many fashion indies severely down on sales and with piles of leftover summer stock, prompting many to review their budgets and product list for s/s 14, with a move towards short-order ranges and transseasonal stock more apparent than ever. Jan Clift, owner of Feva in Cheltenham, says that sales have been affected by the extreme weather conditions of the last six months, leaving her to hold back budgets and seek out more short-order labels for s/s 14. “At the end of April we were down by 17 per cent on last year, and 2012 was no record breaker,” she says. “But May was on a par with last year, and the first few days of June have been very encouraging. So the short version is we will buy less in advance and, as a reaction to the current climate, we are steering clear of strictly seasonal items.” This is mirrored by Sara Eresen, owner of Harvest in London. “The bad weather had a big impact on sales in March and during the Easter holiday period,” she says. “We were down around five per cent in March year on year, but April and May were both up on average by 10
per cent, so we are back on track. But the weather will definitely have an impact on our strategy for s/s 14. We have started pre-collection appointments, so the recent bad weather is fresh in our minds, and we will be cutting our spend on forward orders for the s/s season from now on.” Many indies feel the traditional divide into spring/summer and autumn/winter is becoming increasingly obsolete, urging suppliers to cater more for transseasonal items, as well as offering more flexibility in terms of delivery times and in-season replenishments against smaller forward orders. “I think the UK needs to consider a new model for seasonal buying,” says Eresen. “The early delivery times for the summer collections are way too early, if you consider it was snowing at Easter.” David Greenberg, owner of Chex in Bexley, concurs, “We seem to have all seasons in one week now, so I feel a little extra of everything should be found in your stock rooms,” he says. “The seasons are still relevant, but a new approach from the manufacturers in regards to delivery options should be looked at.” Feva’s Jan Clift agrees, “I think the time for change has come,” she says. “It is increasingly difficult to predict what will sell in six to 12 months’ time, and this is compounded by what appears to be great unpredictability of
“The time for change has come. It is increasingly difficult to predict what will sell in six to 12 months’ time, and this is compounded by what appears to be great unpredictability of the weather”
the weather. The spring/summer and autumn/winter concepts aren’t as relevant any more, so we need to reflect this in what we buy, how we buy it and when we buy it. Brands that traditionally operate on a forward-order basis should look to sharing the retailers’ risk and hold some stock themselves, opening up the possibility of in-season buying. Shorter and more reactive buying opportunities would minimise potential misjudgments and ideally the need for premature sales.”
09 WomensWear buyer wwb-online.co.uk — june 2013
neWs —
expanded shoWroom For bestseller Danish fashion house Bestseller has expanded its Manchester showroom, taking over the entire sixth floor of the city’s Arndale House. The company – whose portfolio includes womenswear labels Vero Moda and Vila, menswear labels Jack & Jones and Selected Homme and childrenswear brand Name It – made the move to bring its showroom presence in line with that of its Danish counterparts. “Over the past five years, Bestseller has seen a steady growth year on year, but one area of the company that has not increased and improved is the way in which we showcase the product,” says Anneli Willis, head of marketing and public relations. “The resources and showrooms in Denmark are second to none, and we felt it was time our Manchester showroom should also represent the brands in the correct way.” The new showroom sees menswear label Jack & Jones move into its own space, leaving the original area as a dedicated platform for Vero Moda, Vila, Only, Selected Femme, Name It and Selected Homme. —
uk luxury sector set to double The UK luxury sector is forecast to almost double in size over the next five years, growing from £6.6bn to £12.2bn in 2017, according to a recent report by luxury non-for-profit organisation Walpole and market research firm Ledbury Research. Despite the difficult trading environment, 83 per cent of British luxury brands are expecting to see a rise in sales during 2013, with a predictive growth of 12 per cent to £7.4bn by the end of this year. While London remains the hub of luxury sales, 81 per cent of premium brands have a presence in other areas of the country. The largest regions after London are currently the South East and North West, while during 2012 Manchester was reported to be the city with the strongest luxury sales outside the capital. Tourist trade, meanwhile, continues to be crucial to the British luxury industry, and while American visitors remain the most important nationality in terms of luxury purchases, the Chinese are the fastest growing group of luxury shoppers to the UK. —
denham opens amsterdam store Last month saw Dutch denim label Denham officially open its new flagship store on Amsterdam’s Hobbemastraat. The new store is the first in the city to showcase the brand’s entire offer for women and men, and also features a curated range of collections by other labels, carefully selected to complement Denham’s brand identity. The latest store joins retail outlets in London, Tokyo and Amsterdam, and heralds a new period of retail focus for the Denham label. Coinciding with the brand’s fifth anniversary this year, the latest retail concept introduces additional consumer features, such as a drop-off service for denim alterations, and the Private Wardrobe concept, which offers consumers invitation-only access to a selection of limited edition products not available anywhere else in the world. — cos expands into turkey Swedish fashion brand Cos expands into new territory this season with the opening of a flagship store in Istanbul. The brand, which aims to offer timeless designs that transcend the seasons for both women and men, will open the store in the city’s Zorlu Centre later in the year. “We are looking forward to the opening,” says Marie Honda, brand manager for Cos. “Istanbul is a vibrant city and we feel that the Zorlu Centre will be the ideal setting.“The move is the latest in a wider programme of global expansion for Cos, which has already opened stores across Europe, Asia and the Middle East since its inception in 2007. — ZelFa goes online Zelfa.net has opened its virtual doors, selling a curated range of brands from the likes of Annette Görtz, René Lezard, English Weather, BasharatyanV, Prêt Pour Partir and 120%. The e-tailer has been established by entrepreneur Zelfa Olivier, with the site aimed at more mature customers aged 35-plus. In addition to the fashion offer, the site also features magazine and editorial content from related fields such as arts, home interiors and books with the aim of creating an all-round destination.
10 WomensWear buyer wwb-online.co.uk — june 2013
neWs —
retailers sign up to bangladesh building regulations Primark is among several retailers who have signed up to the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh, initiated by unions IndustriAll and UNI Global Union. Under its terms, signatories commit to financing and implementing a joint fire and building safety programme, which will include safety inspections, remediation and fire safety training at supplier factories. The Accord has been created in response to the Rana Plaza building collapse on 24 April, and it aims to develop a safe and sustainable Bangladeshi Ready Made Garment industry (RMG), improving factory conditions and structural as well as fire safety hazards. M&S and the N Brown Group have also joined the agreement. —
barbour receiVes Funding For international expansion British premium label Barbour has received £549,000 in funding from the government’s Regional Growth Fund to expand capacity and export to new markets. The investment will allow the brand to create 130 jobs in its North East headquarters. “Barbour clearly has the right approach to skills, and its Academy with Hartlepool College will ensure it retains the diverse range of practical skills it needs to stay ahead of the competition,” says business secretary Vince Cable, following a visit to the J Barbour & Sons in South Shields. Barbour’s finance director, Brenda Readman-Bell, says the investment would help to raise the profile of the brand internationally. “We support long-term employment and commercial longevity in the North East, and the grant will enable us to extend our current warehouse and factory facilities and secure additional employment opportunities,” she says. The label has also appointed Paul Wilkinson as head of marketing and Ryan Llewellyn-Pace as sales director UK & Ireland. The appointments are a strategic move to strengthen the brand’s senior management team in light of Barbour’s continued expansion. —
guess appoints chieF design oFFicer Guess has appointed Sharleen Ernster Lazear as chief design officer. Reporting to Paul Marciano, CEO, Lazear will be responsible for the design and development of all product categories within the Guess and Marciano brands, including apparel and licensed accessories. — carmen busQuets inVests in buymyWardrobe Luxury fashion entrepreneur and founding investor in Net-A-Porter Carmen Busquets has invested an undisclosed sum in fashion resale site BuyMyWardrobe. The site is a marketplace to buy and sell pre-owned designer fashion, with Busquets joining fellow investor Mimma Viglezio and founder Kal Di Paola to grow and develop the site further. — bbeh march to moVe to london Ocean Media Group is moving the March edition of the British Bridal Exhibition (BBEH) to London Olympia. The event will run on 13-15 April, joining the dateline of designer bridal event White Gallery in London, which remains at Battersea Evolution. The Group said the move is a response to both exhibitor and visitor demand to reduce the amount of trade bridal exhibitions in the UK. The September edition of the show, however, which is the largest bridal trade exhibition in Europe, will remain in Harrogate. — karl lagerFeld opens second paris concept store Designer brand Karl Lagerfeld is opening its second concept store in the Le Marais district in Paris this month. Situated at 25 rue Vieille du Temple, the store will target fashion-forward locals and tourists who are frequenting the district. The new shop is set to offer the brand’s accessible luxury collections from its women’s and men’s range, accessories, eyewear, plus an exclusive assortment of gifts, such as Lagerfeld’s favourite photography and design books.
12 WomensWear buyer wwb-online.co.uk — june 2013
ukFt heralds increase Funding For trade shoWs The UK Fashion & Textile Association (UKFT) has reported a dramatic increase in funding for UK exporters to take part in key international trade shows. In the financial year 2013/4 and 2014/5, UKFT has received a commitment from UK Trade & Investment (UKTI) to almost double the amount of money available. Grants for European shows will increase from £1,000 to £1,500 per show, and exhibitors at key US shows will see grants almost double to £2,000. For shows in Europe and the US, UK SME companies will have a lifetime allocation of six grant supported shows. In addition, for shows in emerging markets, such as China, Hong Kong and Russia, companies will be eligible for a further six grants and for these markets the grants will range from £2,500 to £3,000. “We have been lobbying the government for many years to maintain the Tradeshow Access Programme (TAP), but this is the first time we have seen an increase in the money allocated to the scheme, and what an increase,” says Paul Alger, director of international business development at UKFT. “It is wonderful news that the government has listened to our case and allocated additional funding to this vital initiative.” —
neWs —
mentoring and sponsorship For independents’ day campaign Mondelez International, the company behind the Cadbury, Philadelphia and Kenco brands, has pledged support for this year’s Independents’ Day campaign by sponsoring business support and mentoring for independent retailers across the UK. A competition has been launched, giving independents the opportunity to win a range of business courses, providing support to small businesses across topics such as finance and business planning, sales and marketing, as well as buying and visual merchandising. For more information on the competition and Independents’ Day visit www.retailindieday.com. —
jackpot’s Wholesale diVision closes Womenswear label Jackpot will no longer be available to UK retailers on a wholesale basis, following the sale of the brand to Danish retailer Coop. The label was sold by parent company IC Companies last week – along with menswear label Cottonfield – as part of a wider strategy by the Danish fashion house to streamline its portfolio. “We felt that Jackpot and Cottonfield were slightly out of our strategic scope,” says investor relations manager at IC Companies Jens Bak-Holder. “They have been sold to Danish retailer Coop as part of a new textiles venture for the chain, and will be sold within selected stores throughout Denmark. It will allow us to concentrate on the other labels in our portfolio.” It was first announced that Jackpot and Cottonfield were for sale in February this year, and the deal was completed in May. Remaining brands in the IC Companies portfolio include By Malene Birger, In Wear and Soaked in Luxury. —
john leWis’ plans For oxFord John Lewis has signed an agreement with the Westgate Oxford Alliance Partnership – a joint venture between Land Securities Group and the Crown Estate – to open a new department store in Oxford. The shop will extend over three floors, totalling 100,000 sq ft of selling space, and will create 500 new jobs. Plans include a customer café, a Place to Eat and a dedicated customer collection entrance located in the basement of the Westgate Centre’s car park. The new, flexible format department store in Oxford has a target opening date of 2017. — tax burden on retailers has increased by 65 per cent The overall tax burden on British retailers has increased by up to 65 per cent over the past eight years, according to a new report published by accountancy firm PricewaterhouseCoopers. The news comes despite measures taken by the government to reduce pressure on UK businesses through the reduction of the corporation tax rate, because retailers have seen increases in other bills such as business rates and contributions towards employees’ national insurance. PricewaterhouseCoopers estimates that business rates and national insurance contributions have risen by almost 80 per cent since 2005. — smes reluctant to recruit this year Most small businesses are waiting until there is an improvement in trading conditions before they recruit more staff, according to a poll carried out by the Forum of Private Business. The Forum, which released its results yesterday, polled its members about their views on the economy and unemployment, and discovered that more than half have put a freeze on further recruitment until conditions improve. The news comes as a double blow to the trade, which not only relies upon the addition of new staff to grow and develop, but also the disposable income of consumers in employment to boost sales figures.
2 1 -2 3 J U LY 20 1 3 PHILLIPS GALLERY HOWI C K PL ACE , LOND ON
— &—
SA ATCHI GALLERY KING’S ROAD, LONDON
scoop-international.com Gosha Ostretsov, Sex in the City, 2008 (c) Stephen White, 2012 Image courtesy of the Saatchi Gallery, London
14 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
people —
BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear —
ukFt announces Winners Last month saw the UK Fashion & Textiles Association announce the winners of its coveted annual awards at a gala ceremony hosted by TV personality Myleene Klass at London’s One Mayfair venue. The 11 awards categories were presented by HRH The Princess Royal, who praised the talent, innovation and drive of the contemporary UK fashion industry. Nadja Swarovski collected the Outstanding Achievement Award for her contribution to the fashion industry, while Harris Tweed Hebrides scooped the Let’s Make It Here UK Manufacturer of the Year Award, as well as Textile Business of the Year. Meanwhile, iconic London department store Liberty London was honoured as the Torque UKFT Retailer of the Year. —
laurel goes street style German womenswear brand Laurel recently embarked on a spontaneous photo shoot, taking a suitcase full of highlights from its a/w 13 collection to Paris, and inviting fashion-week visitors and passers-by to be styled and photographed in the key pieces. The result is a cool and urban shoot that shows off the collection in a wearable and individual way. —
CONTOUR FASHION BALL RAISES £50,000 Last month’s Contour Fashion Ball for the lingerie and intimate apparel sector raised more than £50,000 for the Retail Trust and the Fashion & Textile Children’s Trust. Celebrities and retail glitterati attended the event, which was held at London’s Savoy hotel, while TV and celebrity stylist Mark Heyes (pictured below) hosted the event. —
“
Ted Baker is celebrating its 25th anniversary, and in the quirky style of the brand it has jotted down its story, following “Ted” on the label’s successful journey. Fans of the brand can visit www.teds25years.com to follow Ted “Around the World in 25 years”.
Another accolade for The Dressing Room
spotlight
— French Connection has collaborated with Warner Charlotte Philip, store and website Brothers to create a collection of manager at St Albans indie The Dressing graphic T-shirts featuring key Room, scooped the Fashion Association of images from the archives of comic Britain’s Bira Young Retailer of the Year book giant Marvel to celebrate Award. The gala was part of Bira’s annual the launch of Superman: Man of Steel. High Street Conference (see page 34 for more) —
and recognised Philip’s achievements that have helped grow the store to one of the most influential indies in the country. The award was sponsored by WWB and presented by commercial director Nick Cook (pictured above left with Philips and host of the night Giles Brandreth). —
“
urBAN // strEEt // dENim // liFE
// 11-13 August 2013 + NEC BirmiNghAm // modA-uk.Co.uk/Flip
16 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JUNE 2013
OPINION —
TALKING POINT Key industry players give their views on the issues affecting womenswear —
TO VISIT OR NOT TO VISIT, THAT IS THE QUESTION
THE LUCRATIVE CROSSOVER BETWEEN SWIM & WOMENSWEAR
A question came to light the other day while speaking to one of my clients who I consider more than a client, namely, when to next visit her in-store.
More and more womenswear and lifestyle boutiques are taking the plunge and stocking swimwear and beach accessories for a variety of reasons. Certainly, at Elite Swim, we have noticed an increased demand from fashion boutiques in addition to our traditional customer base, lingerie and swimwear stores.
I am at that point of the season like most agents and brands when the books have firmly closed on the main season and all the seasonal administration is up-to-date. And you are either working on selling Cruise/Pre s/s 14 collections or store visits to name a few objectives before the s/s 14 preparations start in earnest. Personally, I have always looked upon visiting retailers as an opportunity to show your existing clients you appreciate their support, even if they do not always buy from you. We know the three-season buying ethos has long disappeared. At the very least it gives you a chance to see how the store is evolving, what brands are selling well and generally obtain vital knowledge of the store and the town/city. Visiting takes investment not just financially but also time. We all seem time-poor these days with so many things to focus on. Personally, I always have more than enough work to do when I return from a visit. So getting back to my fab client... When we were discussing store visits, she didn’t say to not visit, but expressed there was no need. As we discussed visits further, it evolved that her impression was an agent and brand who was unable to visit was probably busy and that equalled success. I know this retailer well, so did not take anything personally. On the flip side, when I mentioned it to another client of mine, she said a store visit was something welcome and she basically would expect nothing less from the agent for all the obvious reasons. I long have given up the thought that a visit secured any level of business going forward. But, at the very least, it does give you valuable insight and a head start at hopefully making contact and a positive first impression. We do hear the horror stories of agents and brands visiting unannounced and being overly pushy on product not suited to the shop. A lack of knowledge and understanding of the store, I am sure, must be frustrating for the retailer. If lucky, you will have the type of relationship where you get time to have a coffee, maybe lunch, quality time to catch up away from the store. Alternatively, if the shop is busy and you know the retailer well, you can help or blend into the background. My intentions are always good for visiting with no expectations. So I do hope for me and other agents it can be seen as something positive. —
Jeni Eliff is the owner of fashion agency Winnie & Ed’s, representing brands such as M.Wiesneck, Vadum, Crumpet and Soho De Luxe.
It has become more apparent in the press and media that swimwear IS outerwear and therefore just as important as clothing. This creates a demand for designer swimwear, with many buyers explaining they are stocking particular brands due to customer requests. The woman who takes pride in her appearance will of course want to look chic on the beach in a well-fitting, high-quality bikini, and many will want a sun hat, beach bag, sandals and cover up to complete the look. It is the time we are seen wearing the least in public, and it’s important to take this vulnerability and turn it into confidence by choosing the right outfit from a trusted source. A successful boutique will earn the trust of a customer. Once this loyalty has been established, they need to be offered a choice. The more a boutique has to offer, the more the customer will want to buy, and by covering a variety of sectors, a good boutique can become a one-stop shop. By adding swim and beachwear accessories to the mix, consumers will consider these staple items to build a summer wardrobe. Along with offering a more personal service, a smaller independent can compete with the concept and convenience of a department store or online shop but still keep the quality and unique brands that are exclusive to them. In fact, surveys have shown that most women dread swimwear shopping and feel much more comfortable going into a boutique than department store as they prefer a more intimate surrounding to feel at ease. We want to look fashionable and stylish, but we also need the construction and high-tech fabrics to pull us in, padding to push us up and support to keep us up there. This quality and fit in swimwear doesn’t come with a high-street price tag, but more women are aware of this and not afraid to make the investment. This is evident from the amount of our boutique stockists selling our cruise collections in the winter months when swimwear is so much less available on the high street and therefore more highly sought after in niche outlets. It’s no secret that the economy isn’t what it used to be, and a successful boutique will not be afraid to move with the times, keep with the trends and adjust to customers’ needs and demands despite this. —
Sophia Pizzey is the sales executive of Elite Swim, the company behind swimwear labels Aguaclara, Maria Bonita by PHAX, Baku, Ginja and Hurley.
18 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
interVieW —
Q&A
Kait Bolongaro the co-founder and womenswear designer of bolongaro trevor tells isabella griffiths why the brand is back in the spotlight following significant growth across wholesale, retail and e-commerce. —
19 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
Isabella Griffiths: Bolongaro Trevor is in its seventh year and, after a restructure of the business, you are about to open four stores this year as well as having seen 15 per cent wholesale growth for a/w 13. Is Bolongaro Trevor on a roll? Kait Bolongaro: Let’s hope so. We originally started with wholesale in 2006. The first two seasons were very good, and we also opened our first store. But, of course, in 2008, the recession hit and it affected the business. So we went through a period where we pulled away from wholesale and restructured the business and focused more on retail, as well as having addressed a number of production and quality issues. We have now started to roll out more stores, and we are also pushing our wholesale side again. We have appointed Colin Clarke, formerly of WDT Group, as wholesale manager, and he is working with us on developing that side. A/w 13 has been strong for us, with 15 per cent growth on last season, and we’re forecasting on more growth next season. IG: Why did you decide to bring in a wholesale manager instead of working with the agency format you had in the past? What does this mean for the business? KB: Having someone experienced and dedicated to the wholesale side in-house pushes the brand in the right direction. The agency format didn’t work; they were chasing business that wasn’t right for the brand, and we were also just one of several in a portfolio. Colin is concentrating on our line alone, and we work closely with him on developing that side. Communication is much easier and we can make decisions quickly, which allows him to be more hands-on. IG: What does your current distribution on the wholesale side look like? KB: We currently have 40 UK wholesale accounts in the likes of Psyche, Eqvvs in Lincoln and Roz Clarke in Windsor, and 20 international accounts such as Traffic in LA. We haven’t got a fixed target in terms of growth; we want to do it organically with the right stores. We want to work with retailers who understand the brand – if there are any risk factors, we’re
interVieW —
“IT’S NOT A YOUTH LINE, THAT WHOLE AREA IS COVERED SUFFICIENTLY BY THE HIGH STREET, SO THERE IS NO POINT IN GOING THERE. IT’S FOR A WOMAN WHO HAS FOUND HER OWN STYLE AND IS COMFORTABLE IN IT”
not interested. We want solid partners we can establish long-term relationships with. IG: You are also rolling out more own stores. You’re obviously no stranger to running a big retail operation based on your previous venture AllSaints. Are you aiming to achieve a similar national chain? KB: We have no intention of growing Bolongaro Trevor to the size of AllSaints – it’s never been the intention, not even for AllSaints. Our ethos has always been to be an off-the-pitch label, a home-grown brand. We don’t advertise; we want our stores to feel like local boutiques, not a high-street chain – that’s always been our mantra. We’re opening stores in strategic locations where it makes sense, and where we can show our collections in our own environment and progress the label. Having own stores also helps with our wholesale side, as it builds the brand. We opened four stores last year and are about to open another one in Richmond, then Brighton and Bath, which will take us to 10 stores. Again, our strategy is to do it organically and open in locations where it makes sense and go to areas where we haven’t had representation. Also, currently, landlords are offering some crazy deals, so we’d be silly not to. IG: You are pursuing retail, wholesale and e-commerce. Which of these do you forecast will achieve the strongest growth ? KB: The three are connected and are growing at a nice rate. Our transactional side has been phenomenal; we’ve seen 1,200 per cent growth since we regenerated and improved the site. The more presence we have in our own stores, the more it boosts the wholesale side – of course we’re being careful about relationships and make sure that interests are not conflicting. E-commerce is just another platform for us and generates additional exposure. We want to build all three. IG: Let’s talk about the collection itself. How would you describe the Bolongaro Trevor style? KB: That is one question I can never answer. The starting point is always vintage, and then we put our own spin on it. I guess it’s eclectic. We do a lot of prints in-house and always try to make them fun and have an edge about us. We don’t set out to achieve a certain look, and we don’t follow trends. There are pieces we like to rework
season on season because they are much-loved staples. We don’t produce items with a shelf life; it’s more about things with longevity. IG: Do you design with a target customer in mind? KB: Me [laughs]. It’s hard to put a finger on it, but she’s over 25. It’s not a youth line; that area is covered sufficiently by the high street, so there is no point in going there. It’s for a woman who has found her own style and is comfortable in it. IG: Bolongaro Trevor is pitched at the upper to premium end of the market, but is still affordable. Is affordability a big factor for you, especially in the current climate? KB: I like to keep it above the high street, but our prices go across the board. We are starting to introduce a few entry price styles, so more people can buy into our brand at different levels. We have introduced a couple of jeans styles that retail between £85 and £95, for instance, and our jersey tops retail between £45 and £65. Our highest price point is £400, but this is for a full-length tattooed gown that is a standout item. I don’t want to go beyond that price point. IG: You have been working with your husband, Stuart Trevor, since 1994 when you first launched AllSaints. What’s your secret to a successful working relationship? KB: I guess we just complement each other well. I tend to look after the womenswear and Stuart after menswear, but we decide the general direction of the business together and we are also allowed to have an opinion on each other’s areas. Of course, we argue now and again, but overall I think we bring different things to the table and are working well together. IG: Aside from growing the distribution side of the business, what else have you got in the pipeline? KB: To be honest, that is the main focus for now. But there are areas that we would still like to cover and expand into, with accessories, shoes and jewellery being the obvious ones. But it isn’t something we will tackle this year – it will be next year at the earliest.
INFORMATION – Kait Bolongaro and her husband, Stuart Trevor, launched Bolongaro Trevor in 2006 – Prior to this they were the founders of AllSaints, but left the business in 2005 – Bolongaro Trevor currently has 40 UK wholesale accounts and 20 international accounts – It is set to open four own stores this year, taking the total to 10 branches – The brand will be showing at the July edition of Scoop International
20 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
promotion —
EXPERIENCE MORE AT MODA 11-13 august 2013 nec birmingham
braintree clothing
the uk’s largest trade Fashion exhibition is getting ready to host the must-see brands From across the WomensWear sector. prepare For the ultimate buying experience With our guide to this season’s moda.
paola
moda Woman
moda White
The Moda Woman bill is hotting up, as key brands across the industry reveal the new direction for spring. This season sees the exhibition play host to a diverse range of new brands, including Dubai ethical fashion label Shefali Couture. Established in 2011, the brand specialises in fashion-forward ethical fashion and focuses on the gothic influences of Broadway shows such as Phantom of the Opera for s/s 14. Braintree Clothing, meanwhile, takes an ethereal direction for summer, arriving at Moda Woman for the first time with a range of its signature bamboo jersey dresses and organic cotton in a summer palette of coral, cool steel grey and fresh mint green. Moda Woman also welcomes back its key exhibitors for the new season, including Seasalt, Marble, Steilmann and Linea Rafaelli.
Presenting an edited selection of international womenswear labels, Moda White focuses on contemporary style for the directional sector of the womenswear industry. This season sees Moda White welcome Paola, a Polish womenswear label focusing on contemporary, softer eventwear with a hint at Great Gatsby inspired opulence and a striking identity that transcends the age demographics. Also making its Moda White debut, Portuguese label Lovejunkie arrives on the scene with a selection of tees, singlets, leggings and scarves in an intense colour palette for s/s 14. Fellow Moda White debutante Effusive also focuses on strong statement style through exaggerated patterns, presenting a range of dresses and elegant jersey jackets for s/s 14 in a spring palette of coral, green and red. Moda White also welcomes back returning labels Roberto Naldi, Sahara, Two Danes, James Lakeland and Elisa Calvaletti.
adorned at moda accessories returns Following its successful launch last season, Adorned at Moda Accessories will host a variety of new and returning labels specialising in niche and quirky accessories. Newcomer Bizinti will debut its unique collection of hand-painted fused glass jewellery, while fellow jewellery label Eliza Gracious returns with a new range of pretty, freshwater and crystal pieces. Elsewhere in Moda Accessories, jewellery label Belle & Flo exhibits for the first time, revealing a collection of pretty fashion jewellery inspired by silhouettes of nature. Footwear accessories label Boot Candy returns to Moda Accessories, while Jewelcity, Casa di Stella and Suzie Blue unveil their latest offers for spring at the exhibition.
21 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
promotion —
Wine, dine and netWork Networking opportunities abound at Moda this season, with social events providing another chance to link up with new contacts. With the choice of fine dining at Hampton Manor or a barbecue at the Beeches, Moda’s Monday night events offer something to suit everyone’s style and preference. Beeches: £20pp, Hampton Manor: £40pp (includes drinks reception, three course meal and half bottle of wine). Email Caroline Mackinnon to book your tickets at caroline@moda-uk.co.uk or call +44 (0)1484 846069. — specialist catWalk shoWs The footwear & accessories catwalk will make a welcome return after launching last season. The industries’ hottest brands will feature at the catwalk theatre in Hall 20 alongside men’s tailoring & lifestyle and urban & contemporary catwalks. In addition, Hall 17 will showcase fashion, evening & occasionwear and lingerie & swimwear labels. Both catwalks also welcome a host of specially selected industry experts delivering a comprehensive programme of seminars. Plan what you want to see on the Moda website. —
lovejunkie
sahara
moda on the moVe
join the community With so much going on around the show it pays to prepare. The Moda Community offers you an essential online planning resource all year round. Open to all buyers, it gives you the facilities to organise and schedule appointments and make and follow up contacts with brands. The website also provides useful information about how to get to the show, what’s happening around the halls and the latest brand and industry news. —
jewelcity
If you are on the move, the Moda app is another great way to keep up-to-date and get the latest news from the show once you are there. Essential updates available in the lead up to the show. Find out more at moda-uk.co.uk. —
For information on all the latest signings, full details of the catwalk and seminar programmes and to register for your free ticket, visit moda-uk.co.uk.
22 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
Fashion —
STYLE FILE This month’s product news —
▲ neW take on the Flat pump Footwear brand R-Me is making its debut for s/s 13 with a new take on the classic flat. Designer Ajoy Sahu set out to reinvent this wardrobe staple, combining elegance, luxury and comfort. Each style includes a hidden elastic construction that enhances back-heel comfort, and a subtle wedge with a memory foam footbed. The lining and footbed use a high-performance microfibre material, which is 100 per cent recycled. —
▲
beach in the east This summer sees a collaboration between online indie platform Farfetch.com, fashion and lifestyle consultant Yasmin Sewell and wholesale agency Paper Mâché Tiger, who are launching Beach in the East, a showcase for some of the world’s best indie designers. Farfetch is launching a virtual boutique hosting everything from one-off pieces to custom-made collections. —
style Flash — Slovakian footwear brand Novesta is launching a dedicated UK website this month, hoping to build on its success across other European markets. —
▲ tailoring de luxe Designer Malene Oddershede Bach is becoming known for her statement tailoring, with sharp lines and striking colours key. The latest collection also features maxi and mini length dresses, tailored trousers, everyday luxe tees and expertly cut jackets. Cashmere knits also form part of the collection, while signature prints offer an eye-catching dimension. — style Flash
Last month marked the — 140th anniversary of Loha Vete is a new jewellery range made from 90 per cent one of fashion’s most recycled product. The brand timeless and iconic uses reclaimed silver and gold goods, creating unusual and products – the Levi’s striking designs. — 501 jean. Created in 1873 by Levi Strauss and tailor Jacob Davis, neither could have predicted the success and impact the first riveted work pants would have on the fashion world. —
Exotic Queen is the title of Maria Bonita’s s/s 14 cruise collection. Inspired by the lavish greens of Latin America, colour and texture are key. —
—
The story of Mona Mara UK label Mona Mara is the new kid on the jewellery block, creating wearable collectibles and trinkets. Enitled “We all have a story to tell”, the collection features vintage-inspired keys, stackable bangles and the brand’s signature London skyline necklace. Each piece is crafted from 22ct gold plate for a high-quality finish. —
W
18.04.2013
10:55 Uhr
Seite 1
21.- 23.9.2013 Saisonneuheiten Fr端hjahr Sommer 2014 Season Novelties Spring Summer 2014 Messe Offenbach GmbH Kaiserstr. 108 -112 D - 63065 Offenbach am Main Fon + 49 69-829755 - 0 Fax + 49 69 829755 - 60 www.messe-offenbach.de info@messe-offenbach.de
24 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
stock update —
THE 10 BEST
CROP TOPS 01
02
07
06
05
04
03
spotlight — Earn extra style points by picking pieces with additional details such as tie-knot fronts and button fastenings. —
spotlight — Select styles with playful prints and patterns in this season’s green, orange and pink colour palette. —
08
WWB rounds up this season’s best crop tops. All styles are available to get in-store now. —
09
10
01 Neon Rose, £7.50, 0161 235 5289 02 Lovestruck, £12, 01707 257 168 03 Tara Starlet, £14, 020 8986 2089 04 Worn by, £12.80, 020 7377 6333 05 Iron Fist, £18.75, 0845 388 4613 06 Izabel, retail price £22, 020 8090 0692
07Minkpink, £14.20, 01280 840440 08 Motel Rocks, £8.64, 020 3137 6235 09 Glamorous, £13.99, 0161 832 9996 10 Vans, £20, 020 8846 8267
Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale
SPRING AND SUMMER 2014 SHOWROOM OPENS JULY 22ND BY APPOINTMENT ONLY
PURE WOMENSWEAR: AUGUST 4TH, 5TH AND 6TH
STAND J94
78 MARGARET STREET, LONDON, W1W 8SZ TEL: 020 7436 8576 EMAIL: PAULINE@YACCOMARICARD.COM
29 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
in season —
TIMELESS A stylish watch is the perfect accessory for summer. WWB takes its pick. — 06
02
01
03 05
04 spotlight
07
— Statement watches can finish off an outfit, so go for styles with unusual detailing such as bracelet straps or accent colours. —
spotlight — Oversized watches remain a key trend, and can be found as sporty as well as more classic varieties. —
-01- Triwa - £79 – 020 3603 9253 -02- Shimla – price on request – 020 8438 4913 -03- ToyWatch – price on request, 020 3301 7830 -04- Storm – price on request – 020 7874 6921 -05- Fossil – price on request – 0844 123 277 -06- Superdry – price on request – 0121 436 1200 -07- Olivia Burton - £27.20 - 07860 776736 Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale For more in-season trends check out our online galleries at wwb-online.co.uk
30 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
Fashion —
FASHION RADAR closed
hannah by beaumont organic
German brand Closed is targeting the UK market for expansion, following the appointment of a new creative director.
The ethical label has launched a sister capsule line, Hannah, for a/w 13, focusing on work and eveningwear classics.
Established: 1978
Established: 2013
Signature style: Closed is a denim label with a young and fresh direction and effortless style that references sportswear, utility and fashion to create one distinct look.
Signature style: The brand follows the lead of its mainline counterpart and offers a clean and simple design aesthetic while playing on proportions and volumes.
Closed may have its roots intrinsically linked to denim, but it is also known for its iconic chino line as well as featuring four women’s and men’s collections and two children’s ranges a year. Founded in Italy, but now based in Germany, the brand still produces all of its products in Italy, and follows a strict design mantra that is based on “form and function in harmony”. Having recently appointed Kostas Murkudis as new creative director, who is responsible for all women’s collections, the label is building on its clean and contemporary designs. Closed is pitched at the premium end of the market, and sits alongside the likes of Rag & Bone, Woolrich, J Brand, Sandro, Current Elliot and Patrizia Pepe, with accounts in prestigious boutiques and department stores worldwide, as well as running a network of 21 monobrand stores across the globe. In the UK, the brand currently has three stockists, Harrods, Start and Giulio, but is looking to expand its scope further. —
Designer Hannah Beaumont developed the label in response to demands from customers, who liked the aesthetic of Beaumont, but wanted a smarter and more chic collection. Hannah is designed to be worn from day to evening, with the collection including a masculine burnt orange jacket, printed silk shift dresses, smart mulberry knits and midnight blue box-cut T-shirts. Finishing touches include contrast trims, leather piping and ribbing, while vintage prints, earthy autumnal colours and loose, oversized silhouettes also feature. All textiles are 100 per cent organic, staying true to the ethical roots of the Beaumont main line. The two ranges are designed to complement each other and can be mixed and matched to create a complete office to evening look. Retail prices range between £60 and £300. Current stockists include boutiques such as Collen & Clare, Hall & Co, Cavells and Regent Tailoring, with the brand looking to expand further in the UK, as well as internationally, with a particular focus on Japan. —
FR OM FROM D AY DAY
TO NIGHT
XXX KPMPOUF WPVT DPN t JOGP!KPMPOUF WPVT DPN t +49 163 - 499 00 38
32 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
proFile —
SIMPLY THE BEST Filippa K is arguably the flagship brand for Swedish fashion and is a global powerhouse that operates in 700 boutiques across the world. Isabella Griffiths caught up with the senior management to find out the label’s recipe for success. —
F
ilippa K may have been voted as one of the most popular brands in Scandinavia in a recent market survey in Sweden, but that’s not the only thing the brand to smile about. Last year the Swedish label turned over nearly ¤70m and saw growth of 10 per cent, thanks to 50 own-brand stores, 700 selected independents and 300 staff, who are keeping the brand ticking over nicely. And then there is the small detail of the brand’s 20th anniversary this year, though, in typical understated Scandinavian style, it’s not something the label makes too much fuss about. The brand is one of the few labels that can execute minimalism flawlessly, and it’s been Filippa K’s clean, sharp, “less is more” signature and simple design philosophy that has kept it at the top of its game for two decades. “We have a clear vision and fashion philosophy based on longevity and consistent style, and we always keep our promise on product quality,” says Eva Boding, who is responsible for Filippa K’s sales and marketing, branded space, product communication, brand development and positioning. It’s a style and design philosophy that resonates with women across the globe, as Nina Bogsted, head of design, concurs, “We stay true to our heritage but are always modern. The core of the brand has always been the same – simple, functional garments with a clean design, essential pieces to build a wardrobe around, easy to combine and long lasting in both style and quality terms. That was the start of Filippa K in 1993 and still is the core value of the brand today.” Indeed, when the label was launched by designer Filippa Knutsson
and Patrik Kihlborg in 1993, it was conceived on exactly those principles, and the two initially ran the business from their kitchen table at home. But they were clearly on to something, and today the brand operates from its head office in Stockholm and 10 local offices in key markets – including the UK – plus agents in the five fastest growing countries. Filippa K has been present in the UK market for the best part of seven years, and it has become a key platform for the label. “We started through an agency format, but today we run our own business with directly employed Filippa K sales representatives,” says Boding. “We have a wholesale strategy to work with a selected few partners, but we can grow so much more. We still have huge potential. Strategically, the UK is of course an important market, it is an international arena and has a strong position in the fashion industry.” Liberty, Fenwick Bond Street and Anthropologie are among the key accounts in the UK, but Filippa K has also been picking up a nice portfolio of indies at premium show Scoop, where it continues to show every season. “Scoop has been great – it has been a stepping stone, giving us exposure to some great stores. They have got to know us, and many of our current partners discovered us at the show,” says Boding, revealing that s/s 13 has been very good for the label in the UK, with strong sell-throughs overall. Wholesale is currently the only route to market for the UK, though Boding is not adverse to opening up retail, too. “We run several shops in other export markets – in fact, of the 50 own-brand stores that we
33 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
proFile —
“We stay true to our heritage but are always modern. The core of the brand has always been the same – simple, functional garments with a clean design, essential pieces to build a wardrobe around, easy to combine and long lasting in both style and quality”
have, 35 are outside of Sweden,” she says. “Our strategy is to open Filippa K brand stores in the UK eventually, but first we want to build the wholesale business with, for example, shop in shops with key partners, and also increase our cooperation with online fashion retailers. It will give us a strong platform to work from.” If ever there was something like a recession-proof label, those with a strong signature and long-lasting identity fare better than others, and Filippa K evidently is one of those labels. Fans of the brand don’t buy it for trends and gimmicks, but for styles that are modern but timeless and will become wardrobe staples. “As a brand, Filippa K is not so sensitive to recessions,” says Boding. “Therefore, we don’t have to change our strategies depending on the strength of the economy in a given market. Filippa K customers choose to buy Filippa K regardless, because they want long-lasting style and high quality. So, in that sense, we’re a reliable and trustworthy brand.” Reliable Filippa K may be, but a lot of the appeal of the label lies in the ease and effortlessness that only Scandinavian labels know how to get right. “I think the Scandinavian design is pure and simple in expression and style, and focuses on sustainability in style and quality – important factors that people value highly,” says Nina Bogsted, who started at
Filippa K in 1997 as design assistant and worked her way up to head of design. She is still clearly passionate about the label, with huge ambitions. “We are constantly working with product development within our range,” says Bogsted. “It’s important to never be satisfied but to always try to make things better.” Currently the share between womenswear and menswear is 70/30, with the same simple, crisp and minimalist style translated across the men’s collection. An increasing focus is also the brand’s non-apparel portfolio, with the label having just launched a limited collection of sunglasses, which were trialled in its own stores and sold out immediately. Twenty years on from its launch, Filippa K has seen an impressive morphosis from kitchen table business to global powerhouse. And Boding is optimistic that Filippa K will continue to thrive. “We have a great time ahead of us,” she says. “Our figures from spring have proved that we will have a solid 2013. We will continue to open more stores, both Filippa K Woman and Filippa K Man stores, and strengthen our brand position through shop in shops at wholesale partners.”
34 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JUNE 2013
REPORT —
THE CHANGING NGING FACE OF THE E HIGH STREET Last month The British Independent Retailer Association (Bira) held a conference with leading industry speakers to discuss the current state and future of the Great British High Street. Isabella Griffiths sums up the key findings. —
W
hat is the role of the high street in today’s changing retail landscape? Can it survive against the rise of e-commerce, decreased consumer spend, out-of-town centres and the many other factors that are turning high streets up and down the country into deserted spaces? Can it evolve, find a new raison d’etre and become a central part of every town again? These were the burning questions at last month’s High Street Conference organised by the British Independent Retailer Association (Bira). A series of talks by key industry speakers shed light on different aspects of today’s trading conditions and the effects on independent retailers from a cross section of industries. Topics discussed ranged from successfully establishing e-commerce alongside bricks and mortar through social networking to local town initiatives and more. The event kicked off with a presentation on Creating Demand for your Retail Brand by fashion indie Deryane Tadd, owner of St Albans store The Dressing Room. Tadd, who is one of the leading fashion independents in the country, gave an insight into how, in only eight years since launching, she has turned her store into a recognised brand, both on the high street and online. “Know your customer,” she said. “I have a very clear vision of who my customer is, and I have created a shopping experience that is directly tailored to her needs.” Tadd revealed that constant in-store and online initiatives and marketing activity keep her at the forefront of customers’ minds, as well as consumer and trade fashion press, and that this is a vital part of the continued development and success of the store. “Whatever you do, talk about it,” she said. “Tell your customers, tell trade press, chat to bloggers and people on social media. Just generally keep your voice heard and don’t let people forget you.” Having taken her store online in 2008, with a major relaunch in 2010, Tadd said that e-commerce had been a key factor in the growth of The Dressing Room and that she had invested a lot of time, energy and budget in getting it right. “However, I do believe it has strengthened my business,” she said. “I am certain that I would not have
Deryane Tadd
seen the growth in-store if I did not have a website. Taking the multichannel route is certainly not the easy or cheap option. Remember, you are promoting your business to the world with your website.” Finally, Tadd closed with an optimistic view on the future of both her store and independent retailers. “It’s not easy being an independent retailer right now – it is hard work,” she said. “However, we are in a better situation than multiples because we can action change and we can evolve with the needs of our customers. Independent retailers are what make our UK high street so interesting.” Tadd’s presentation was followed by social commerce expert and Gloople founder Warren Knight, who offered a practical workshop on Demystifying Offline to Online Retailing. Knight advocated the art of “storytelling” by engaging with customers through Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and other social channels, creating a continuous dialogue that will help understand customers and ultimately drive traffic back to stores. “Technology has changed everything, except for what we do in human nature,” he began. “Technology has allowed us to share and talk in real time to tens of thousands of people at the push of a button. Think back 20 years ago, we had to make a call 1-1 or send a fax 1-1,” he said, encouraging the audience to take advantage of the technological advances. Knight highlighted the importance of translating a store’s bricks-and-mortar personality to an online presence, too, building social interactions into the core of the customer user experience, enthusiastically making the case for social and e-commerce. “The UK is on top internationally when it comes to e-commerce, with 12 per cent of GDP generated by online sales, this puts us above the likes of Korea, China and the US,” he said. “Around £13bn is lost at the moment because businesses aren’t online. If you’re not going online, you’re losing money.” Knight shared his top five tips for successful social commerce, which were summed up by the five Cs: “Coverage - get your business present on all of the relevant social networks; Collection - always add more followers; Curation - allow your followers to customise your content
35 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
report —
kate hardcastle
beth Ward
Warren knight
jonathan reynolds
“This is not the time to think just about your shop and see others as competitors. You need to work together. Treat your town centre as a destination. Get involved”
to match their audience; Context - promote your business by adding value around the brand and not as a hard sell; and Confidence - build trust with your followers to get them to be brand advocates.” Jonathan Reynolds, academic director at the Oxford Institute of Retail Management, meanwhile, offered an insightful overview of the changing face of the high street, and the complex structural change that have shaped it over the years. Reynolds cited a multitude of factors that have been contributing to the evolution of the high street, including the recession, changing consumer attitudes to spending and saving (more people still spend less and save more than pre-recession), store format changes – for example, many supermarkets are now launching smaller convenience branches and pop-up stores aimed at specific consumer and convenience needs – the accelerating rise in e-commerce and the ever-closing gap between real and virtual shopping experiences as contributing factors. However, Reynolds did not paint a depressing image, but rather explained that change is something natural and should be embraced by retailers of all sizes. “Embrace change,” he said. “Recognise and celebrate the strength of local independent retailing as an economic multiplier and a social multiplier. Collaborate to level the playing field. Innovation is everywhere, not just the monopoly of big firms. Technology is both a challenge and opportunity and the barriers to entry are low online. The future lies in the survival of the most adaptable – embrace the change.” “Local initiatives” that can improve business in town centres was the topic of Beth Ward’s talk. Ward, MD of Tippey Marketing & Events, is an authority on town-centre management in her role as town team special advisor for Yorkshire, Humber and the North East as well as a former Halifax town centre manager and executive director of Marketing Halifax. Ward shared her vast experience of boosting the footfall of Halifax high street by advocating that retailers need to work collectively,
not as individuals. “This is not the time to think just about your shop and see others as competitors,” she said. “You need to work together. Treat your town centre as a destination. Get involved. It’s easy to criticise all the town teams, town-centre managers, Portas Pilots and so on. But how can you criticise something when you’re not involved yourself?” Ward cited examples of initiatives that have been successfully implemented in Halifax and subsequently boosted footfall across the town, including the Fiver-Fest. “We worked out that if every adult in the district would spend just £5 a week in their local shops, it would generate a total of £40m that would go directly back into the local economy,” she said. “It really helped make people aware of how much difference they can actually make. We developed the Fiver-Fest from there, encouraging local shops to have something on offer that people could buy for a fiver. It was a huge success.” Meanwhile, “queen of customer service” Kate Hardcastle, founder of the award-winning business transformation organisation Insight With Passion, offered an impassioned view on why customer service must be at the centre of retailing, both online and offline, and gave examples of successes and failures from local businesses across the globe. “Smile”, was her opening statement, something she believes is at the core of human interaction – and ultimately retail. “Humans want to deal with humans, so a smile makes all the difference,” she said. “Service must be paramount. You need to captivate with exceptional service. You need to be experts in retail and in your sector. Accentuate the positives, your retail store’s best features and embrace social interaction. The experience in your store needs to be fun, exciting, new and bold.” Hardcastle believes the high street will not disappear, but evolve – in fact, that “it has to evolve”, and the “evolution of the high street will be one of social interaction.” >>>
36 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JUNE 2013
REPORT —
WHAT THE PANEL SAID The day was concluded with a panel discussion about The Great British programmes themselves are probably also of more interest to retailers like us than to actual consumers. It has created a certain degree of awareness, High Street and what lies ahead for towns and local retailers across the but not much more.” UK. Panellists included Jonathan Hopson, CEO of Newbury department Asked what the real, actual issues are that retailers are faced with at store Camp Hopson; Dr Jonathan Reynolds, from the Oxford Institute of the moment, Hopson didn’t have to think long and hard. “Competition Retail Management; Michael Weedon, Bira’s deputy CEO and with out-of-town centres, the internet and attracting the right calibre of communications director; and Chris Wade, CEO of Action for Market staff,” he said. This was reiterated from retailers in the audience. One Towns. The discussion kicked off with the question, “Was the Portas Pilot retailer said, “Parking in towns is a real challenge,” while another a big waste of time?” member of the audience summed it up, “Rates, rents and parking are The panel was undecided on the issue, with Jonathan Reynolds crippling us retailers. The government’s role in all of this hasn’t been stating, “We academics are often accused of our reports gathering dust on shelves. What she [Mary] has managed to achieve is more attention for the mentioned. The government can create the infrastructure and give us the tools to help develop our towns, but they are ignoring the real issues.” cause than any academic report has had in years. However, she hasn’t had the tools to do the job properly.” This was mirrored “The crux of the matter is that people are getting poorer by Michael Weedon. He said: “It’s got us on TV to talk about retail and it has been in the public eye all the time, and this has had a huge effect on us all. ever since. It was important as a tool, but she could People simply have less money to spend” never have achieved what needs to be done, because she has no legislative power. I wouldn’t say it was a Jonathan Reynolds agreed, “Most local governments don’t get how waste of money, because there wasn’t much money to waste in the first important retail is to the local economy, which is why many are so place, it was a drop in the ocean. We actually took the view that it was a inactive.” Concluding, Michael Weedon pointed out another key issue, mistake to bring money into this [Portas Pilots], because it turned it into a game of ‘how can we spend £100,000’ – and it’s not enough to do anything “The crux of the matter is that people are getting poorer all the time, and this has had a huge effect on us all. People simply have less money to spend.” properly anyway.” Chris Wade also concurred, “We need to ask, which shelf is Mary’s report now gathering dust on? The report itself was good, but the big issues like business rates, parking, town-centre planning and out-of-town centres have not been acted upon and the government isn’t fulfilling its part of the bargain.” Jonathan Hopson concluded that only time will tell what impact – if any – the Portas Pilots will make. “The jury is still out on that. It’s not made a lot of impact on our business. The TV
38 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
preVieW —
EXHIBITION CALENDAR Your comprehensive guide to the spring/summer 2014 shows. Sponsored by
PITTI IMMAGINE W 18-21 June Fortezza da Basso, Florence 0039 5509491861 www.pittimmagine.com • Pitti Immagine W kicks off the international show calendar, with the big news that it is moving to the Fortezza da Basso, regular home of its menswear counterpart. A tightly edited selection of international brands will be on show, with brands confirmed so far including Adele Dejak, Alto Milano, Carlo Contrada, DKaprol, Hipanema, Jeffrey Campbell and See Me. CAPSULE BERLIN 2-3 July Postbahnhof, Strasse der Pariser Kommune 8, Berlin 0012 122068310 www.capsuleshow.com • Fashion and lifestyle trade show Capsule returns to Berlin for its fifth edition, fusing the cream of high-end contemporary brands, directional independent designers and premium streetwear labels in one venue. More than 100 collections from around the world will be on show, curated in a highly edited setting. Donut Shop, the cash and carry concept featuring local craftsmen and small retailers, will also debut this season. The Berlin edition is followed by shows in Las Vegas, New York and Paris in August and September.
PITTI IMMAGINE W
BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN 2-4 July Airport Berlin-Tempelhof 0049 302000370 www.breadandbutter.com • With a number of niche denim, street, urban and sportswear labels making their Bread & Butter debut this season, the show also welcomes the return of Danish fashion house Bestseller, who will showcase its entire portfolio of women’s and menswear labels. A full brand list was unavailable at the time of going to press, but regulars include the likes of Barbour, Pepe Jeans, Twist & Tango and Hilfiger Denim.
BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN
PREMIUM 2-4 July Station Berlin, Luckenwalder Strasse 4-6, Berlin 0049 3020 8891330 www.premiumexhibitions.com • Premium returns this season with over 900 labels across womenswear, menswear, footwear and accessories. Spanning 20,000 sq ft, the exhibition continues to offer the latest in high-end and contemporary fashion alongside emerging talent in each sector. Among the womenswear brands confirmed for this edition
39 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
preVieW —
are 120% Lino, 7 For All Mankind, American Retro, Current/Elliott, Felder Felder, Michalsky and True Religion.
Sand, who are new to the show. Additional presentations and a Panorama party on the Wednesday night will also take place.
exhibitors, the second edition will widen its portfolio from Made in China to Made International.
PANORAMA BERLIN 2-4 July Berlin Expo Center Airport, Messestrasse 1, Berlin Schönefeld 0049 30208891340 www.panorama-berlin.com • Following the success of its inaugural show last season, the event is returning with around 400 exhibitors, and is set to grow with an additional permanent hall for its January 2014 edition. The show bridges the gap between
THE GALLERY BERLIN 2-4 July Opernwerkstätten, Zinnowitzer Strasse 9, Berlin, Germany 0049 211/4396-317 www.the-gallery-berlin.com • This season’s edition is moving to the new venue of Opernwerkstätten, which organisers are hoping will accommodate significant growth to the show. The event covers contemporary fashion, design and accessories
BIJORHCA 5-8 July Pavilion 5, Porte de Versailles, Paris, France 0033 147565282 www.bijorhca.com • Running over four days, Bijorhca is the international platform for fine and fashion jewellery, with products ranging from jewellery through watches to gold. The show regularly attracts buyers from the ready-to-wear and gift sector, with more than 450 designers and brands from around the world on display.
PANORAMA BERLIN
BIJORHCA
THE GALLERY BERLIN
premium and urban fashion and presents like-minded womenswear and menswear collections alongside each other. The show promises a revised and optimised layout, allowing easier navigation, while more than 200 shuttle buses will be available to allow visitors easy access to the event. The show is looking to widen its international visitor profile and in particular is targeting UK buyers. Key exhibitors confirmed for the upcoming edition include Airfield, Apriori, Hauber, Laurél, Liebeskind, Lusia Cerano, Mac, Marc Cain, Mexx, Oui, as well as La Fée Maraboutée and
with new signings including Aurea Vita, Eve Fashion, Linea Raffaelli, Mascara, Solysoul and Bonny & Kleid. WHITE LABEL 3-5 July U3 Bahnhof, Potsdamer Platz Blending, Berlin 0049 30240876114 www.whitelabelfair.com • Following its successful debut last summer, sourcing fair White Label is set to run bi-annually, parallel with Berlin Fashion Week, moving forward. With over 200 global
WHO’S NEXT PRET A PORTER PARIS
WHO’S NEXT PRET A PORTER PARIS 6-9 July Parc Des Expositions, Porte De Versailles, Paris 0033 1410137483 www.whosnext.com • Presenting more than 2,000 ready-to-wear and accessories brands, Who’s Next is one of the biggest international trade shows in Europe and regularly attracts around 55,000 buyers. On ready-to-wear, the show is split into three different areas – Fame, Private and Mr & Mrs Brown. Accessories, meanwhile, will be hosted across Premier Classe, Who’s Next Accessories >
Put the date in your diary for the most exciting London Swimwear Show yet!
21-23 July 2013 Radisson Blu Portman Hotel, London A host of your favourite brands will be joined by new brand launches such as PrimaDonna Twist Swim, Brazil Amor, INO – Gottex Innovations and Vevie and new exhibitors include Shan, Seafolly, Mimi Holliday, Ritratti, Sumarie and much more. London Swimwear Show – the essential show for swimwear & beachwear! Keep up to date on exhibiting brands, more details on the show and help with hotel accommodation on www.londonswimwearshow.com
41 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JUNE 2013
MODEFABRIEK
and Mr & Mrs Brown Accessories. The show is once again holding its prestigious graduate competition, The Future of Fashion, by Who’s Next & Arts Thread. Graduates from over 50 international fashion colleges have been invited to take part, with 10 winners from across womenswear, menswear, accessories, jewellery and footwear hand-picked by a judging panel of industry experts and given the opportunity to showcase their collections at this year’s event. MODEFABRIEK 14-15 July RAI, Europaplein 8, Amsterdam 0031 204421960 www.modefabriek.nl • The 35th edition of Modefabriek is set to attract a host of new labels, including flip-flop labels Havaianas and Tkees and new jeans brand Koral from the makers of 7 For All Mankind. They will be joining regular exhibitors such as Barbour, Canada Goose, Current Elliott, Modstrom, DEPT and MbyM. The show offers a strong selection of international labels, but is also the main platform for domestic brands, making it particularly interesting for overseas buyers looking to discover some new and niche labels. THE GALLERY DÜSSELDORF 19-22 July Botschaft, Cecilienallee 5, Düsseldorf 0049 211-4396317 www.the-gallery-dusseldorf.de • The Gallery Düsseldorf brings together
PREVIEW —
SCOOP INTERNATIONAL
contemporary fashion, design and accessories in a central venue, allowing buyers to cover both the show and the wealth of showrooms on the Kaiserswertherstrasse nearby. This season the show welcomes the likes of Azizi, Didier Parakian, Eigenart, Petra Meiren, Rundholz and The Swiss Label. SCOOP INTERNATIONAL 21-23 July Saatchi Gallery, King’s Road/Phillips Gallery, Howick Place, London 020 7596 5154 www.scoop-international.com • For its sixth edition, Scoop International is doubling in space and exhibitor numbers with the addition of an extra venue, the Phillips Gallery. The show uniquely fuses art with fashion, bringing together around 400 labels. Both venues will present a stimulating mix of established and emerging fashion designers alongside a host of new names in contemporary painting, sculpture and installation, while also boasting the strongest line-up of lifestyle and accessories labels. Brands making their debut at the show this season include Virginie Castaway, The Loser Project, Wondaland, Ada Rose, Julia Burness, Heidi Mottram and Maison Olivia. LONDON SWIMWEAR SHOW 21-23 July Radisson Blu Portman Hotel, London 01773 534177 www.londonswimwearshow.com • The London Swimwear show brings together
more than 40 labels in a dedicated setting of the Radisson Blu Portman Hotel. Brands confirmed include Aguaclara, Feraud, Freya Swim, Elite Swim, Gideon Oberson, Huit, Palm Beach, Save The Queen Sun and Sunflair. STITCH LONDON 23-24 July The Sorting Office, London 01642 658288 www.stitch-london.com Stitch is introducing a newly launched women’s section this season, operating alongside its core menswear and streetwear offer from the new location of London’s Sorting Office. A list of confirmed womenswear brands was unavailable at the time of going to press. MARGIN 4-5 August Westminster Suite, Hilton, London Olympia www.margin.tv • In its 11th year since launching, Margin is back for spring/summer 2014 with a host of labels in a brand new location. Taking place in London’s Hilton Olympia hotel, the exhibition will showcase some of the newest talent in directional womenswear and menswear. PURE LONDON 4-6 August Olympia, London 0844 588 8077 www.purelondon.com • Pure London is once again taking over
>
42 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
London Olympia, showcasing more than 1,000 brands divided into Womenswear, Spirit, Footwear, Accessories, Body and Junior sections. Names confirmed to the show include Almost Famous, Bestseller Group, Darling, Desigual Footwear, Emily and Fin, Louche, Pepe Jeans, Sarah Pacini and Forever Unique. Trend forecasts, seminars and catwalk shows will also be running throughout the three-day event. GALLERY 8-10 August Forum, Copenhagen 0045 33120930 www.gallery.dk • Gallery welcomes 30 new exhibitors to the
preVieW —
international visitor numbers following a 10 per cent rise in visitors last season. VISION 8-10 August Lokomotivværkstaedet, Copenhagen 0045 39648586 www.cphvision.dk • A key exhibition for Nordic fashion, Vision combines premium fashion with edgy design, streetwear and contemporary labels, with exhibitors ranging from Converse through Numph to Whiite, Modstrom to Twist & Tango and Line of Oslo. The Lokomotivværkstaedet’s raw and industrial venue creates a cool
MODA WOMAN 11-13 August NEC Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk • A host of domestic and international womenswear labels are set to make their debut at Moda this season, including Marie Mero, Paola, Heart, Jana, Goubi, Carmen Melero, Jana, Toni, Lovejunkie, Shefali Couture and Zuppe. They join a stellar line-up of regulars at the show, including James Lakeland, Latte, Fred Sabatier, Bianca, Pomodoro, John Charles, Steilmann, Pause Café and many more. The UK’s biggest fashion trade event will feature daily evening &
GALLERY
VISION
show this season, including Armani Jeans, Paul Smith, Max Tan, Puma Black Label, Asger Juel Larsen and Camo. They will join 150 established designers from Scandinavia and 150 brands from all over the world. For the first time, some of the collections will be available to view online weeks before the show, adding a new dimension to the visitor experience. Two new spaces will also be opened this season; a lounge area with Bang & Olufsen music and a French Connection cocktail bar. There will be 11 catwalk shows in the green park area adjacent to the fair, with organisers expecting an increase in
MODA WOMAN
backdrop for not only the collections, but also a number of pop-up events that accompany the show.
occasionwear, fashion and lingerie & swimwear catwalk shows as well as a free seminar programme with key industry speakers.
CIFF 8-11 August Bella Center, Copenhagen 0045 32472213 www.ciff.dk • Ciff introduces new area Crystal Hall this season, bringing together an exclusive collection of design driven Scandinavian brands, available to view by invitation only.
MODA ACCESSORIES 11-13 August NEC Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk • Adorned at Moda is returning to Moda Accessories for its second season, hosting a variety of labels specialising in niche and quirky designs such as newcomer and glass jewellery
43 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
label Bizinti. Meanwhile, brands such as Eliza Gracious, Jewelcity, Casa di Stella and Suzie Blue are returning to the show. Overall, Moda Accessories covers all facets of the sector, including jewellery, handbags, scarves, hats and related products. MODA FOOTWEAR 11-13 August NEC Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk • The largest footwear trade show in the UK, Moda Footwear covers every sector of the market, from trend-led footwear to classic,
preVieW —
MODA LINGERIE & SWIMWEAR 11-13 August NEC Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk • National intimate apparel show Moda Lingerie & Swimwear is set to welcome the biggest names in the industry this season. Retailers will view an eclectic mix of brands showcasing the s/s 14 trends including Seafolly, Moontide, Pain de Sucre, Simone Pérèle, Passionata, Empreinte, Curvy Kate and Panache. In addition to the varied mix of brands, the next edition will also see the return of the Lingerie & Swimwear Retail Theatre, which successfully launched last season, offering an expanded
accessories. Buyers can expect the freshest trends showcased on the dedicated catwalk in Hall 20 running throughout the three-day event. MAGIC 19-21 August Las Vegas & Mandalay Bay Convention Centres, Las Vegas 0018 775544834 www.magiconline.com • Playing host to an increasing number of global buyers and brands across menswear, womenswear, footwear and accessories, Las Vegas trade show Magic will also provide a series of impressive seminars and key speakers. This season, the event will be relocating its women’s section, formerly located in the North Hall, upstairs to the South Hall above FN Platform, with the aim to grow this category and to strengthen the show’s position in the bridge market. THE LEDGE 1-3 September The National Hall, Olympia 0116 289 8249 www.theledgeshow.com • With a diverse selection of brands, a mini ramp competition and a Streetwear Village, The Ledge continues to support the action sports and streetwear industry, bringing together 200 action sports and streetwear brands. Key exhibitors include Diamond Supply Co Footwear, Element and Nike.
MODA FOOTWEAR
mainstream and comfort brands, making it a key destinations on buyers’ seasonal schedules. Regulars of the show include Fly London, Art, Manas, Lisa Kay, Ipanema and Peter Kaiser, while Sixty Seven, MTNG, Bugatti and Think! are returning to the event after a successful debut at the February edition. Lizianne, Hogl, Paradigma, Babycham and Joules, meanwhile, are just some of the labels that are making their debut at Moda Footwear. Don’t miss the regular dedicated catwalk shows, taking place throughout the course of the event, bringing this season’s key footwear trends to life.
MODA LINGERIE & SWIMWEAR
programme of presentations and seminars, such as The Big Lingerie Debate, which will see a panel of industry figures discuss relevant and pressing topics as well as offering invaluable insight into what to expect in the future for the sector. FLIP 11-13 August NEC Birmingham 01484 846069 www.fliptradeshow.tumblr.com • In its third season, sports, surf and street show Flip returns to Birmingham, spanning womenswear, menswear, footwear and
LONDONEDGE 1-3 September The National Hall, Olympia 0116 289 8249 www.londonedge.com • Dedicated to short-order, commercial and creative clothing, footwear, accessories and lifestyle collections, LondonEdge presents a diverse range of labels within a lively, themed environment. This season sees a large selection of new overseas brands making their debut. CPM 4-7 September Expocentre Fairground Moscow, Russia 0049 2114396482 www.cpm-moscow.com • This season CPM is celebrating its 10th anniversary. What started as a small showcase across four halls is now Eastern Europe’s biggest and most influential fashion fair, attracting around 19,500 visitors each season. The show covers all sectors of the industry including womenswear, menswear, childrenswear, >
44 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
preVieW —
MOMAD METROPOLIS
MICAM
casualwear, leather, fur, lingerie and swimwear as well as accessories. Didier Parakian, Lauren Vidal, Crea, Fuego, Nanso, Punto Blanko, Roidal, Pain de Sucre, Gueta, Canada Goose, Redskins, Pepe Jeans, Scotch & Soda, Mavi, Steilmann and Gardeur are among the confirmed exhibitors. MOMAD METROPOLIS 6-8 September Pavilions 4, 12 and 14, Feria de Madrid, Spain 0034 917223000 www.momad.metropolis.ifema.es • Momad Metropolis is a new multi-sector fashion event presenting a range of apparel, footwear and leather goods labels across the women’s, men’s and children’s sectors. The exhibition incorporates the fairs formerly known as Moda Calzado and Simm, and brands are primarily Spanish and Portuguese, although French, Italian and Latin American suppliers will also exhibit this season. THE BRITISH BRIDAL EXHIBITION 8-10 September Harrogate International Centre 020 7772 8300 www.bbeh.co.uk • Over 250 exhibitors from the world of bridalwear, formal menswear, accessories and occasionwear are on show at the event. From top designers to commercial brands, the British Bridal Exhibition is the key event in the sector, also hosting a number of catwalk shows and a seminar programme. LONDON GARMENTS EXPO 9-11 September Business Design Centre, Islington, London 020 8888 0090 www.londongarmentsexpo.com
GDS & GLOBAL SHOES
• Bringing together a wide variety of young designers, manufacturers and emerging brands, London Garments Expo will host catwalk shows, seminars, B2B meetings and trend reports. GDS & GLOBAL SHOES 11-13 September Messe Düsseldorf, Düsseldorf, Germany 0049 21145607606 www.gds-online.com • GDS provides a comprehensive market overview of the progressive and classic premium segment, while presenting design newcomers and brands across the women’s, men’s and children’s footwear sectors. Key exhibitors include Calvin Klein Collection, Desigual, G-Star Raw, Gore-Tex, Ted Baker and United Nude. LFW 13-17 September Somerset House and various locations across London 020 7759 1990 www.londonfashionweek.co.uk • The schedule for this season’s exhibition was unavailable at the time of going to press, but expect to see catwalk shows and presentations from some of the finest UK and international labels taking place across the week. Meanwhile, The Exhibition @ LFW will once again showcase an edit of contemporary ready-to-wear designers, with around 120 collections scheduled to be available at the static show. THE BRANDERY 13-15 September Fira, Barcelona www.thebrandery.com • Street and urbanwear show The Brandery is
relaunching this season, with a later dateline of September and a remodeled concept, which will see the show take place only once a year. Details of this season’s edition, however, were still under wraps at the time of going to press. THE MICAM 15-18 September Fieramilano, Milan 0039 2438291 www.micamonline.com • The Micam is one of Europe’s key footwear exhibitions, bringing together over 1,500 brands across the full spectrum of the footwear industry. Key exhibitors include brands showing under the Made in Italy collections. ILM INTERNATIONAL LEATHERGOODS FAIR 21-23 September Messe Offenbach, Offebach, Germany 0049 698297550 www.messe-offenbach.de • A specialist trade fair for leather goods, travel products, bags and accessories, ILM offers a line-up of internationally renowned brands. The show has been running for over 50 years and each fair is attended by around 6,000 trade visitors. TRANOI 27-30 September Montaigne, Carousel du Louvre, Palais de la Bourse, Paris 0033 153018490 www.tranoi.com • Tranoi prides itself on being more than just a commercial gathering, but instead views itself as an artistic platform, thanks to its selection of more than 1,000 premium designers from across the globe. The show takes place across three venues in Paris and also features artistic installations, designer exhibitions, catwalk shows and other additional events.
49 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
preVieW —
WHERE ART MEETS FASHION Scoop International is doubling its exhibition space this season, spanning the Saatchi Gallery and nearby Phillips Gallery. The show, taking place on 21-23 July, hosts its most versatile line-up of labels with the best of British and international fashion. WWB spoke to Scoop founder Karen Radley to get the lowdown on this season’s edition. —
WWB: Scoop International is expanding this season, with the addition of an extra venue, the Phillips Gallery. What prompted this significant expansion, and what does this mean for the show? Karen Radley: Just two years on from its 2011 launch, I found myself with a large waiting list of labels wanting to showcase at Scoop International. Without losing the ethos of Scoop International with its unique fusion of fashion and art, we needed to grow to accommodate the demand, but not compromise the show’s unique vision. We found the perfect location in the Phillips Gallery; it is equally as atmospheric and inspiring as the Saatchi Gallery, and is just round the corner in Howick Place. Securing it was a real coup. With these two illustrious venues in the heart of Chelsea we can now facilitate and showcase another 200 labels at Scoop International without losing our initial vision of fashion meeting art. Scoop has firmly established itself on the international fashion calendar, making it, arguably, the freshest European show for contemporary, emerging and established labels – as evidenced by the long waiting list of prospective exhibitors keen to take part. WWB: How will the concept of Scoop International be translated into the new venue? KR: The Phillips Gallery is light, spacious and almost a mirror image of the Saatchi Gallery - a blank canvas, so to speak. Visitors can expect more at Scoop International this July... more designer collections. WWB: Scoop International has seen phenomenal growth and recognition from the industry since it was launched. To what do you attribute this success? KR: Scoop International is a serious show where orders are taken. Designer labels have picked this up as the event has grown. The accumulative effect of this and word of mouth throughout the industry has manifested through designers wanting to show at Scoop International. I personally handpick every label that exhibits, maintaining a good mix of
karen radley
brands as well as a point of difference. Buyers need to see not only existing designers but labels not so well known – as well as ones I would categorise as “brands to watch”. WWB: Is championing new and up-and-coming labels something that you like to integrate into Scoop International? KR: We will have far more “young” UK and international designers this season sitting within both galleries and deliberately placed among the more established designers to expose them to retailers and buyers. Scoop International is a platform for design and this fits within my remit to focus on the new and up-coming talent and to support the next generation. The standard of young designers is exceptionally high, and it is exciting to showcase the level of creativity that is out there. Equally, a significant amount of exhibitors are home-grown labels from the UK, and, in many ways, Scoop International truly offers the Best of British alongside some of the most striking international labels. WWB: Are there any other, additional features taking place at the show this season? KR: We hope to showcase the RCA fashion, fine art, ceramics, textiles and design students for their year end show throughout both the Saatchi Gallery & Phillips Gallery, as well as hosting a Portuguese Gallery with some of the finest names the country has to offer.
>>>
50 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
preVieW —
LIBBY LONDON...
ADA ROSE...
ANNA LOU OF LONDON...
THE BEST OF BRITISH around the shoW This season, Scoop International’s theme is an English Summer Garden. Inspired by the Chelsea Flower Show, the reception will be decorated with English flowers. Guests will be treated after 5pm to lemonade, while champagne will also be served. Scones with clotted cream and jam will be available at the Scoop Café. The show has also teamed with famous Soho eatery Bocca Di Lupo, who will be serving Gelupo ice cream.
F TROUPE...
BOLONGARO TREVOR...
Scoop International is home to some of the most creative British labels, and this season the line-up of brands is stronger than ever. Among the labels on show is accessories brand Ada Rose, the brainchild of designer Lisa Levis, who has become known for her modern and illustrative prints. It’s the label’s third season, and its grown-up accessories with a simple, elegant signature are gaining an increasing fan base among buyers and consumers. Key styles in the collection include bags, purses, wallets and scarves. Fellow accessories brand Anna Lou of London is returning to the show with an informal, eclectic and quirky aesthetic. Having started out at Portobello Road Market in 2004, the designer has become an internationally recognised brand, but the designs are always steeped in British heritage. The designer uses materials such as stainless steel, sterling silver and acrylic in the jewellery collections, complemented by a selection of scarves made of 100 per cent silk. Bolongaro Trevor is making its debut at Scoop International this season. Having been established by ex-AllSaints founders Kait Bolongaro and Stuart Trevor, the brand is intrinsically British, with its latest s/s 14 collection inspired by the majestic landmarks of London and English rose gardens. Vintage finds, trinkets and charms are the main inspiration for the styles, with key pieces including the signature parachute dress, twisted drape jersey tops and dresses, as well as easy summer separates. Footwear brand F Troupe was established in London in 2003 by designer Mick Hoyle, who loves to reference British historical and functional influences to make footwear that is quintessentially British but with international appeal. Over at accessories brand Kate Sheridan, the s/s 14 collection offers a tight selection of summer prints with developments into lightweight
preVieW —
LOWIE...
KATE SHERIDAN...
MATILDA & QUINN...
VILLAGE ENGLAND...
denims and tonal leather. Bright pops of colour feature heavily, while digitally printed leather is a new introduction for summer. Former investment banker Libby Hart is the brains behind Libby London, which specialises in stylish office attire. The s/s 14 collection is based around a mix-and-match capsule wardrobe covering a jacket, skirt, shift dress and trousers in “wear with anything” colours and styles. Modern graphic prints also feature, with the colour scheme dominated by pale pinks, greys and blacks. Lowie’s design mantra is to create beautiful clothes that are produced as ethically as possible without jeopardising design. Established in 2002, the brand has become known for its quirky and feminine designs, with hand-knitting, crochet, hand-embroidery and hand-stitching building the core of the collections. The label uses only the finest soft wools, luxurious organic cottons and eco-friendly leather, offering pieces that combine style with longevity. The new collection of Matilda & Quinn combines modernity with tradition, as classic shapes are reinvented with a contemporary twist. Comprising day to evening dresses, evening styles and versatile separates, the collection is based on a British ethos – the brand is committed to local production and prides itself on every piece being made in England. Look out for bursts of colour and unusual textures that feature throughout the range. At Village England it’s all about the trademark English sense of style and understated luxury. A central feature of the collection is a new collection of softly structured bags. Soft calf leather is used to inject a vivid colour palette of orange and red, juxtaposed against more classic greys, blacks and black patent. Hobos and totes are also available and give a fresh and quirky interpretation.
>>>
52 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
preVieW —
SEVEN BOOT LANE...
other british brands not to miss Also among the British labels on show are the likes of Ana Faye, Bark, Bombarock, Emma Louise, Ottoline, Julia Burness, Juniper Rose, M Hulot, Mimi Berry, Meli Melo, Raw Art Chic, Maid in Love and Lynnja Wang. PREY OF LONDON...
NADIA MINKOFF...
ST ERASMUS...
WONDALAND...
Fashion-forward brand Prey of London, meanwhile, is another newcomer to Scoop International, and takes its inspiration for s/s 14 from the great outdoors. The creative backdrop for the label’s statements prints, for instance, comes from tempestuous oceans to sweeping meadows, with colour-rich wave imagery featuring heavily. The brand’s signature is the use of intricate metalwork and sophisticated embellishments, including fringed layers of delicate gold chains applied to necklines of form-fitting jersey body suits, dramatic batwing dresses and silk tunics. Drawing on its Somerset roots, footwear label Seven Boot Lane’s s/s 14 offering has a strong bohemian undertone, with effortless cool thrown into the mix. Summer ankle boots, flats and sandals make up a key part of the collection and sport new finishing techniques such as a play with subtle metallics and white wax. Look out for antiqued and battered copper buckles, which also add an edge to the brand’s designs. From South Africa born but now London-based designer Pieter Louis Erasmus comes jewellery label St Erasmus, which specialises in bespoke and handcrafted pieces. The collection encompasses fine chains with Swarovski crystal teardrops, cornucopia crystal beads handstitched to chokers, collars and statement necklaces, as well as oversized earrings and bold cuffs. Nadia Minkoff is another quintessentially British brand that is recognised on an international scale for its strong signature and design integrity. The s/s 14 collection is divided into two distinct stories – Dramatic bold and Laid-back nude. The common thread of the collection, however, is based on the use of natural and luxurious materials such as fine leathers, purse silks and real crystal embellishments. Over at Wondaland the s/s 14 collection features a multitude of bespoke prints, vintage lace, hints of neon and tribal twists, while sharp silhouettes and intricate tailoring also dominate. Fabrics include printed chiffons, georgettes, crepes and cottons, which forms the basis for camis, tees, cocktail dresses, playsuits, jackets, blazers and shorts.
>>>
54 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
ABCENSE...
BAUM & PFERDGARTEN...
CASHMERE IN LOVE...
BEST OF INTERNATIONAL COLLECTIONS
CHI MIHARA...
ABRO...
Scoop International’s strength is not only its unique line-up of British labels, but it can also boast an impressive list of international labels to its brand mix, ranging from established designers to quirky new collections with a distinct signature and creative flair. Among the labels on show this season is German accessories brand Abro. Established in the 30s, the label is now a third-generation family business and specialises in bags, belts, shoes and related accessories. The emphasis is on fashion, function and quality, using finest leathers and hides and applying the highest level of craftsmanship. Footwear brand Abcense hails from Taipei and was created by design duo Jhuosan and Yoyo, who set out to create the perfect fusion between footwear and design. Each shoe combines the simplicity of industrial components with the craftsmanship of traditional shoemaking. The collection is inspired by Oriental culture and features timelesss pieces with unusual detailing and silhouettes. Over at Baum & Pferdgarten, the s/s 14 collection explores the colour palette of renowned Danish painter Vilhelm Lundstrøm. His signature orange plays a dominant part in the collection, alongside ever-present turquoise, navy and nude shades. The collection is eclectic and sees graphic prints reinterpreted in new ways. At Cashmere in Love you will find luxurious knitwear pieces with a contemporary, chic slant. Founded in 2007 in Istanbul, the label is defined by clean-cut shapes and architectural lines, while exclusive cashmere blends and a vibrant colour palette are also a key characteristic. Over at fellow footwear brand Chi Mihara, s/s 14 rings in an explosion of colour, with corals, sunset orange and greens dominating for the season. Cylindrical heels come in a range of heights, while stack heels are also a key element of the collection. Materials include shiny, embossed leather, snake scales on leather and baroque gold print over leather.
55 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
preVieW —
LAUREL...
around the shoW Scoop International is known to champion up-and-coming designers, and this season the show not only showcases British, but also Portuguese, Belgian and Italian young designers. Furthermore, Scoop International is hosting Newgen, a platform dedicated to the amazing talent from the RCA students who will be exhibiting their final work in front of the best caliber of buyers. And there’s more – the event will be showcasing creative talent at the Phillips Gallery, details of which, however, were still kept under wraps at the time of going to press. But watch this space...
FURANSU...
CANDICE COOPER...
JUMPERFABRIKEN...
HOSS INTROPIA...
For high-end sneakers, meanwhile, look no further than Scoop International regular Candice Cooper. German-based but handcrafted in Italy, each pair is hand-dyed and made of premium lambskin, goatskin or calfskin and comes in an array of vibrant colours. The collection is also complemented by a range of boots, ballerinas as well as bags and belts. Hong Kong label Furansu’s concept is based on minimal industrial architecture, a simple and subdued colour palette and clean lines, which create a structured composition. Knitwear is among the central product groups and sees the application of new beading techniques. For s/s 14, 100 per cent merino wool, silk cotton and prima cotton are adopted. Hoss Intropia is a regular at Scoop International and is once again returning with a colourful and versatile collection that is both modern and also classic, with timeless appeal. Look out for feminine dresses and skirts, which are among the key items, as well as quirky prints and a play with textures. Swedish brand Jumperfabriken’s s/s 14 collection is divided into three core themes: Folkhelm, taking inspiration from 70s wallpaper and camping vacations; I Remember, rocking a retro navy theme; and Pop Modern with a 60s monochrome theme. The label’s concept is steeped in retro nostalgia, with the mantra that “knitwear was better in the good old days”. East meets West is the theme at Laurel for s/s 14. The German brand offers a modern, urban collection that is infused with exotic impressions. Styles are dominated by new silhouettes such as Japanese kimonos that appear as T-shape dresses and as dresses with batwing sleeves. Cuts combine precision with casualness, while the typical Laurel dress remains a statement piece.
>>>
56 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
preVieW —
KENNEL & SCHMENGER...
MADELEINE THOMPSON...
MAISON OLIVIA...
NATHALIE VLEESCHOUWER...
German footwear brand Kennel & Schmenger is a family business with over 90 years of footwear manufacturing under its belt. The luxurious footwear styles are edgy and contemporary and are made of the finest materials. For Madeleine Thompson, the focus of s/s 14 will be on luxurious, ultra-light and delicate gauge cashmere pieces, revisiting classic feminine silhouettes the brand is known for, but bringing in new elements with lace detailing on cardigans. Delicate pops of fluro/acid colours are worked into the collection alongside dusty rose pink for a vintage-inspired look. Sophisticated, feminine and retro are the words that sum up the concept at Italian label Maison Olivia. This is translated into tailored dresses and coats that are always coordinated, evoking a feeling of 50s and 60s style. Emphasis is on fabrics and unusual detailing, creating a romantic and chic look. The s/s 14 collection at Scoop International regular Nathalie Vleeschouwer literally crosses borders. The collection was inspired by the portraits by Seydou Keita from Mali, which can be seen through an array of ethnic patterns. Glamour is key, however, so look out for metallic fabrics and yarn which offer that extra sparkle and pizzazz. Italian label Ottod’Ame is returning to Scoop International with another quirky and yet extremely feminine collection. The brand offers a comprehensive ready-to-wear collection that ticks all the right boxes when it comes to attitude, edge and wearability. New Zealand designer Rebecca Taylor’s signature is founded on unconventional colour combinations and prints, flattering cuts, original embellishments and a high level of detailing, creating luxurious collections that still remain accessible. References from the world of music, art and
preVieW —
SZEN...
REBECCA TAYLOR...
portuguese design at scoop Following in the footsteps of the Scandinavian and Belgian galleries of previous season, the July edition will host a Portuguese gallery with some of the finest designers emerging from the country. Young designers in the gallery include Carla Pontes, Theresa Abrunhosa and Daniela Barros, while Christopher Savat, Luis Buchino, Diogo Miranda and Susana Bettencourt will be exhibiting throughout the show.
OTTOD’AME...
ZETTERBERG...
SOISIRE SOIEBLEU...
entertainment are a key inspiration and can be found once again in the s/s 14 range. Soisire Soiebleu hails from Italy and specialises in handmade shoes that are created using authentic vintage foulards recovered from markets around the world and printed leather that has been processed with a special wax treatment. Each foulard and printed leather is different and unique, and therefore each pair is truly different. The brand’s sister label Szen will also be on show at Scoop International, using exclusive printing techniques for distinctive reversible sweaters. Zetterberg is the brainchild of Swedish designer Therese Zetterberg. The label’s main focus is on dresses, both evening and daywear, boasting an elegant, chic and luxurious direction. The collection covers ready-to-wear, couture and limited-edition garments. For more information on the show visit scoop-international.com.
58 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
preVieW —
BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN This season sees contemporary trade show Bread & Butter Berlin return to the city’s Airport Berlin-Tempelhof, presenting a selection of brands in the denim, sportswear, street fashion and casual sectors. WWB looks ahead. —
silVian heach
rocket dog
Italian womenswear label Silvian Heach combines the intense hues of Jasper Red and Indigo Blue with softer shades of salmon and sand pink for s/s 14. Pearl needleworks embellish fabric, while baroque-inspired quilted jacquard also takes its place within the latest offer. —
The characteristically colourful collection from footwear label Rocket Dog draws upon the influences of bright hues, print mixing, safari style and animal prints for s/s 14, combining statement upper style across a textural spring palette of jute, cork, canvas and linen. —
G-STAR RAW Dutch denim label G-Star Raw kicks off its 25th anniversary celebrations with the launch of its s/s 14 offer at this season’s Bread & Butter. The range features new styles, silhouettes and washings, including the new Midge, low-waist sculpted skinny for women as well as looser fit options elsewhere in the collection. —
59 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
preVieW —
UCLA UCLA goes back to its roots with a core collegiate collection for s/s 14, taking inspiration from archived photography and lending itself perfectly to the sports team trend. Supersoft hoodies and twill shorts are key within the womenswear line, while rollerskate-inspired graphics hint at the brand’s Californian heritage. —
FeVer designs London label Fever celebrates grace, beauty and elegance for the new season with a collection inspired by eras gone by combined with the brand’s hallmark timeless style. This season sees a particular focus on luxurious fabrics across the collection, reinterpreting Fever’s signature commitment to all things vintage and feminine. —
the Frye company
juju
The US boot label returns to Bread & Butter with a range designed to celebrate the brand’s 150th anniversary and 15 decades of all-American heritage. Key features include burnished uppers, subtle branding and semi-distressed leathers, all made in accordance with the label’s traditional approach to shoemaking in Marlboro, Massachusetts. —
JuJu showcases its new range of jelly boots this season, interpreting its iconic jelly shoe style of the 80s for the contemporary festival-goer. Styles include glow-in-the-dark and glitter finishes, as well as a vibrant palette of zesty pastels and bright colour blocks. —
jacQues britt
closed
European label Jacques Britt fuses French and British style across designs for both men and women with attention on shirts and soft tailoring. The new spring season sees a focus on pastel softness and intense bright hues for women, while the feminine, loose-fit blouse remains a key silhouette for s/s 14. —
With silhouettes originating from menswear influences and an overall vibe of hip New York culture – the city of the brand’s birthplace – each collection by Closed builds upon the label’s distinctive identity. This season sees the brand introduce two new boyfriend-fit jeans, while the wider collection for s/s 14 focuses on a palette of khaki, olive and pastel shades. —
60 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
retail diary I am always interested when I read about retailers who say they are holding back lots of their budget to buy more merchandise in-season. It sounds good in principle, but I find it difficult in practice when we have to commit forward to get the brands that are important to our business. In our O&C Butcher shop in Aldeburgh we are 55:45 menswear to womenswear. Significant suppliers for us include Barbour, Gant, Gurteen, Hackett, Meyer and Hawick Knitwear for men and Gerry Weber, Olsen, NYDJ, Michele and Oui for women. We also run Fleur, a womenswear-only shop, which sells more contemporary brands such as Jackpot, Part Two, Sandwich, Seasalt and White Stuff. I don’t have a problem with the requirement to forward order, but the trading experience this spring has prompted me to look more carefully at what we can do to limit the adverse effect of poor weather at the beginning of the season, while ensuring we aren’t held back if we get blazing sunshine. March and April were tricky until the better weather arrived, when there was an instant positive effect and it has been interesting to compare the relative performances of the two sides of our business in recent months. On the womenswear side, we had good merchandise, but some of the deliveries were too early for us in a Suffolk seaside town, as opposed to a fashion-forward city. The month of March in the previous two years was warm, which helped sales. But, this spring, the horizontal snow blowing down the high street didn’t put anyone in the mood to buy colourful lightweight clothes. For spring 2014, therefore, I will be looking to redistribute my budget slightly in favour of the second and third drops from my suppliers, rather than the first. I’ll also be trying to make use of more stock service programmes, such as Hawick Knitwear’s for its versatile basic sweaters. Even if we have a warm spring in 2014, items like these will sell steadily throughout the year and shouldn’t need clearing at a discount. This won’t solve the problem of bad weather, but it should help. With our perpetually unreliable British weather, I will be more careful going forward about having more non-seasonal merchandise in stock. James Stacey is a director of his family’s shops, O&C Butcher and Fleur, in Aldeburgh, Suffolk. He is a member of the Fashion Association of Britain www.fashionassociationof britain.co.uk
Forum —
RETAIL FORUM
The latest news from the industry —
anna scholZ Visits emma plus
(L-R) Marianna Molchanova, Amaka Design House; Aliya Boranbayeva, ABO London; Lucia Debieux, Marie Claire; and Donna Ida Thornton
Brighton indie Emma Plus hosted an event at its store last month in association with plus-size designer Anna Scholz. Emma Plus was one of the first UK indies to stock the brand and the designer visits have become an annual highlight for the store. To celebrate the event, Emma Plus was transformed into an Anna Scholz store for the day, with floor-to-ceiling banners promoting the designer as well as a selection of the s/s 13 collection. —
DONNA IDA HOSTS CAREERS DAY Denim specialist Donna Ida held a careers day at its London head office last month to help and advise aspiring designers, rising fashion stars and budding entrepreneurs. Members from the Donna Ida team, including the online content editor and graphic designer, were on hand to answer any questions. “When I started the business plan for Donna Ida, I was prepared for hard work, but it was still a challenge with long days researching and planning on my own,” says Donna Ida Thornton. “That was over six years ago, and now I have a team of people helping me, four boutiques and my own denim line but, like everyone else, I’m still learning. I often get asked how I got to where I am today, so I thought a careers day would be perfect.” — Emma Plus owner Emma Hayes, left, pictured with Anna Scholz, and above with customers
haVe you opened a neW store, launched a transactional Website, organised an eVent or haVe any other in-store neWs? then let us knoW by getting in touch at isabella@ras-publishing.com.
61 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
Forum —
WHAT’S BEEN THE WORST BUSINESS DECISION OF YOUR CAREER?
the dressing room hosts day shoWcase St Albans boutique The Dressing Room recently held its first brand showcase, which saw Day Birger et Mikkelson present its s/s 13 collection. Customers were treated to a light brunch, while UK country manager Sonal Patel presented key looks from the collection styled by The Dressing Room team. The showcase proved a great success, with sales for the morning double the forecasts, with overall sales for the brand up by 41 per cent on last year. As an extra incentive customers were given a gift on all Day purchases as well as 10 per cent off across the store. —
We ask four retailers this month’s hot question. heidel campbell Co-owner, Pushka, Chichester
baska supports british designers Womenswear boutique Baska in Cambridge has recently launched a selection of in-store pop-up shops to help promote both emerging and established designers. The store showcased collections by three British designers, Cambridge-based accessories designer Olivia Tullett, scarf designer Elizabeth Kate and ready-to-wear label Bourne. “We recognise that in economically unstable times, both emerging and established designers need to be promoted and showcased by strong, independent boutiques,” says owner Baska Dunaj. —
MY FAVOURITE SHOP... sQuare by lindy ross, owner, lindy ross
square 15 old bond street, bath ba1 1bp
— taking on a business partner without signing a legal document to cover me should things go wrong. everything was hunky dory while the economy was booming but, the minute things got tough, the business partner was nowhere to be seen and the resultant split cost me and the business a lot of money and was very stressful. —
natalie peters Owner, Amabo, Lytham St Annes
owner: Lyn Gardner opened: 1981 brands include: Helmut Lang, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Velvet, Duffy, DVF, Isabelle Marant My favourite independent store is Square in Bath. I think the essence of Square comes from the owner, Lyn Gardner, whose cool personal style defines the store. The minute you cross the threshold you are overtaken with the desire to shop and it’s just a question of how many things you can resist. The mix of labels is inspired, from major international brands to hot new discoveries - there is nothing predictable. The lovely sales assistants and Lyn herself help customers put together whole outfits from different designers and price ranges without any pressure. The experience is completed with a choice of accessories to die for. —
— deciding to roll out more bricks-and-mortar stores just as the online phenomenon took off; i’m now back to one store and online. —
— opening a second store in southsea, portsmouth. the area had a higher crime rate than we realised and we were burgled six times. We wished we had kept to one store and concentrated our efforts on the web side of the business; it would have saved us lot of money, heartache and stress. —
jenny lockton Owner, Bohemia, Edinburgh
— my worst business decision was not engaging a business advisor prior to opening the shop. With the knowledge i have now i could have saved a lot of money in initial start-up costs. —
janine o’keeFe Owner, O’Keefe, Esher
62 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
experts —
ADVICE Industry experts answer your retail questions —
hoW can online retailers improVe their deliVery serVice?
Why is combating in-store Fraud crucial For retail businesses?
Online retail is growing at an extraordinary rate. According to IMRG, the online retail market in the UK was worth £78bn in 2012. Worryingly for all retailers with an online presence, however, IMRG also calculated the annual cost of failed UK online deliveries to be £851m – a significant cost, and a factor that makes the consideration of logistics partners a vital component in etail strategies.
For many customers, the introduction of Chip and Pin and handheld point of sale (PoS) terminals has improved the shopping experience, but there are a number of issues retailers need to be aware of around in-store payment technology.
The importance of choosing the right courier service is often underestimated by businesses, yet it is key to improving consumers’ delivery experiences. When a company chooses to partner with a particular courier firm, that business will become an extension of their brand – meaning that any failings on the part of the courier will have a negative impact on the company’s image and reputation. It is therefore important for online retailers to ensure they have all the information they need before choosing a courier service. For example, even though information on a carrier’s overall reliability can be accessed relatively easily, factors such as the quality and attitude of delivery drivers and customer service teams can be more difficult to quantify, often only coming to light when it is too late, or via social network feedback that places a retailer’s brand in an adverse light. In order to improve their delivery service, when looking for a new logistics partner, retailers should look for a delivery partner that shows a real interest in their objectives and is then willing to tailor elements of their delivery around those requirements. Such carriers tend to measure their success against their clients’ satisfaction levels and will always go the extra mile to fulfil their needs. Any logistics firm should be treated as an extension of the retailer they work with as, operating under the same brand umbrella, the success or failure of the partnership will reflect directly on the retailer. To improve their delivery service, it is important for retailers to understand the choice their customers are looking for in their delivery options in order to provide a diverse range that would allow the customer to pick the best one to suit their needs. From a demand perspective, even the most organised delivery systems can suffer reputational damage due to a failure to plan for seasonal changes in levels of demand, and the pressures generated by successful promotional campaigns. Managing the customer is a big part of getting it right, but managing internal planning can be just as important. All of these options rely heavily on a relationship of trust and understanding between the retailer and their logistics firm. To improve their delivery service, online retailers need to look carefully at their existing parcel logistics partner to see, and act upon, instances where there is room for improvement. —
Despite the advent of both regulation and best practice across Europe to improve the way that payments are secured, there is still a great deal of uncertainty, from territory to territory, as to how merchants should best respond. These are real concerns, evidenced by the impact that lax data security processes can have on retailers of any size. However, pressure on retailers to respond comes exactly at a time when they are having to look harder than ever at every single investment. Already trading in a tough environment, retailers are having to focus harder on the customer experience, driving new investments into mobile devices that connect to the network wirelessly and yet which must still conform to PCI requirements for data protection. It is the retailer’s responsibility to ensure payment devices are secured but also that they take appropriate measures to accommodate correct installation and security around the placement of the payment terminal position at the PoS environment. This is in part due to the increased threats. Indeed, records show it only takes around 30 seconds to remove an entire card device and replace it with an identical one fitted with electronic skimmers, while, on any given day, according to MasterCard, there are over 5,000 terminals available for auction online, and legitimate terminals in stores are permanently under threat. And any security breach of data can lead to loss of reputation and customers, potential financial liabilities and litigation. However, many vendors of physical security devices simply ignore PCI and focus only on the device. The threats are real and the requirement to mitigate them under the Payment Card Industry Data Security Standards (PCI: DSS) are critical if retailers want to avoid fines and a loss of customer confidence if data is stolen. Any security breach of payment card data has far-reaching consequences for affected organisations, including loss of reputation, loss of customers, potential financial liabilities and litigation. Securing the PoS environment reduces the risk of theft, or replacement with an authorised terminal can prevent both data capture and the addition of skimming equipment while ensuring unattended PoS equipment and cabling cannot be removed or tampered with. By registering device key characteristics such as serial numbers, manufacturer, connection type and store location, retailers can ensure they are PCI compliant and reduce the risk of PoS theft and security breaches, which can be damaging not only to the consumer but their precious brand. —
Paul Doble is director and e-commerce expert at DX, a leading independent logistics and parcel distribution company.
Jan B Jakobsen is business development manager at Ergonomic Solutions. www.ergonomic-solutions.net
64 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
directory —
carrier bags
headWear
steamers and irons
t-shirts
garment stands
Distributed by: Arctic Fox Unit 22, Watford Metro Centre, Tolpits Lane, Watford, Herts WD18 9UN Tel: 01923 210646 Email: info@bullseyeinternation.co.uk
rails
Wanted
hat boxes
shoWcases
to advertise please call mina or jasprit on
01484 846069
or email mina@ras-publishing.com jasprit@ras-publishing.com
displays
to advertise please call mina or jasprit on
01484 846069 or email mina@ras-publishing.com jasprit@ras-publishing.com
65 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
directory —
names and numbers
To subscribe to WWB simply call us on: +44 (0)1484 846069 email lydia.bennett@ite-exhibitions.com or visit www.wwb-online.co.uk. EU £75 (includes p&p)
Outside EU £146 (includes p&p)
Abro 0049 610669960 www.abro.de Abcense 0088 6918753735 www.abcense.com Ada Rose 020 3176 7925 www.adarose.co.uk Anna Lou of London 020 8879 3676 www.annalouoflondon.com Baum und Pferdgarten 0045 35352115 www.baumundpferdgarten.dk Bijorhca 0033 147565282 www.bijorhca.com Bread & Butter Berlin 0049 302000370 www.breadandbutter.com Bolongaro Trevor 020 7502 5502 www.bolongarotrevor.com Candice Cooper 0041 445330132 www.candicecooper.net Capsule Berlin 0012 122068310 www.capsuleshow.com Cashmere in Love www.cashmereinlove.com Chi Mihara 0034 966980415 www.chimihara.com CIFF 0045 32472213 www.ciff.dk Closed 0049 4044184066 www.closed.com CPM 0049 2114396482 www.cpm-moscow.com Filippa K 0046 708305077 www.filippa-k.se Flip 01484 846069 www.fliptradeshow.tumblr.com F Troupe www.f-troupe.com Furansu 0031 654723588 www.thefuransu.com Gallery 0045 33120930 www.gallery.dk GDS & Global Shoes 0049 21145607606, www.gds-online.com Hannah by Beaumont Organic 0161 448 7204 www.beaumontorganic.com Hoss Intropia 020 7287 1300 www.hossintropia.com ILM International Leathergoods Fair 0049 698297550 www.messe-offenbach.de Jumperfabriken 0046 31161090 www.jumperfabriken.se Kate Sheridan www.katesheridan.com Kennel & Schmenger 0049 633171090 www.kennel-schmenger.de Laurel 0049 8999888401 www.laurel.de Libby London 020 7736 7877 www.libbylondon.com LondonEdge 0116 289 8249, www.londonedge.com London Garments Expo 020 8888 0090 www.londongarmentsexpo.com London Swimwear Show 01773 534177 www.londonswimwearshow.com Lowie 020 7737 3310 www.ilovelowie.com Madeleine Thompson 020 7349 8887 www.claretshowroom.com Maison Olivia 0039 3396023789 www.maisonolivia.it Matilda & Quinn www.matildaandquinn.com Magic 0018 775544834 www.magiconline.com Margin www.margin.tv Moda Accessories 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk Moda Footwear 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk Moda Lingerie & Swimwear 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk Moda Woman 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk Modefabriek 0031 204421960 www.modefabriek.nl MoMad Metropolis 0034 917223000 www.momad.metropolis.ifema.es Nadia Minkoff 020 8202 1099 www.nadiaminkoff.com Natalie Vleeschouwer 0032 32025072 www.nathalievleeschouwer.be Ottod’Ame 0039 0558790148 www.ottodame.it Panorama Berlin 0049 30208891340 www.panorama-berlin.com Pitti Immagine W 0039 5509491861 www.pittimmagine.com Premium 0049 30208891330 www.premiumexhibitions.com Prey of London 07931 337148 www.preyoflondon.com Pure London 0844 588 8077 www.purelondon.com Rebecca Taylor 020 7580 8644 www.rebeccataylor.com Scoop International 020 7596 5154 www.scoop-international.com Seven Boot Lane 01749 673222 www.sevenbootlane.com Soisire Soieblue 0039 022551511 www.blackboard.it St Erasmus 077136 83465 www.st-erasmus.com Stitch London 01642 658288 www.stitch-london.com Szen 0039 022551511 www.blackboard.it The British Bridal Exhibition 020 7772 8300, www.bbeh.co.uk The Gallery Berlin 0049 211/4396-317 www.the-gallery-berlin.com The Gallery Düsseldorf 0049 211/4396-317 www.the-gallery-dusseldorf.de The Ledge 0116 289 8249 www.theledgeshow.com The Micam 0039 2438291 www.wicamonline.com Tranoi 0033 153018490 www.tranoi.com Village England www.villagengland.com Vision 0045 39648586 www.cphvision.dk White Label 0049 30240876114 www.whitelabelfair.com Who’s Next Pret a Porter Paris 0033 1410137483 www.whosnext.com Wondaland 020 7937 7164 www.wondaland.co.uk Zetterberg 0046 317740033 www.zetterbergcouture.se
66 WomensWear buyer — june 2013
up close and personal —
ROSIE FORTESCUE The star of Made In Chelsea and style blogger tells WWB about her latest project, a collaboration with accessories brand Covert. —
You’ve teamed up with Covert on a range of iPhone and iPad accessories. How was the experience and what inspired the style of the pieces? I have loved every minute of working with Covert. It has been so great to get really stuck in from start to finish. I tend to wear muted tones day to day, so a pop of colour for accessories is essential. I believe my iPad and iPhone cases will add a dynamic to any outfit. Has this fuelled your desire to do more own fashion or accessories ranges? Will there be a Rosie Fortescue range? I hope so. It’s not something I want to rush into though. My Covert collaboration has inspired me to work on designs more and believe in myself. You are also a style blogger. What is your blog all about? My blog is mainly based around my street style and documenting my outfits from Made In Chelsea. I love discovering new designers and introducing them to my readers, too. I have developed my blog into the AtFashionForte app, which is the next step. How would you describe your personal style? My style is very tailored and structured. I love playing around with contrasting materials such as leathers and silks. I dress in the morning as I mean to go on, and my outfits and accessories reflect my mood of the day. You’re part of the very fashionable cast of Made In Chelsea. How has the series influenced your personal style? I have learnt what clothes and shapes suit my body. It has been great to discover new designers and wear some fantastic pieces to events. What are your ambitions going forward? I am about to launch my new website, which will give everyone an update on what projects I am working on. I hope to continue working with brands and collaborating in the future. —
INSIDER: Who is your style icon? Olivia Palermo always looks effortlessly chic. Whether she’s walking her dog or on the red carpet, she is always dressed to perfection. — Which fashion business do you admire? I admire Natalie Massenet who has single handedly proven how strong a female businesswoman can be. — What’s the best piece of industry advice you’ve ever been given? Dress for you and not for others. — What’s the one fashion item you can’t live without? My watch. I am always on time and I feel lost without it —