WWB234 MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER ISSUE

JANUARY 2014 — ISSUE 234 WOMENSWEAR BUYER

— TED BAKER UNCOVERED CEO Ray Kelvin grants rare insights —

— THE ITALIAN JOB Elisa Cavaletti’s recipe for success —

— MONOCHROME MAGIC Directional fashion takes on a classic trend —

— THE SHAPE OF THINGS TO COME Comprehensive guide to a/w 14 —

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07 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JANUARY 2014

CONTENTS —

REGULARS

FEATURES

FASHION

9 EDITOR’S COMMENT — 10 NEWS — 16 BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear — 20 TALKING POINT — 92 RETAIL FORUM The latest news from the industry — 95 ADVICE Experts answer your questions — 98 UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL With Sofia Strazzanti —

25 BOOSTING YOUR BUSINESS FROM WITHIN Thierry Bale gives advice on increasing profitability — 28 Q&A With Ted Baker’s CEO Ray Kelvin — 40 CHIC & UNIQUE Elisa Cavaletti’s founder Daniela Dallavalle shares her design philosophy — 86 COUNTDOWN TO SCOOP INTERNATIONAL The latest signings to this month’s show — 90 FIRST GLANCE AT MODA A sneak peek at next month’s show — FRONT COVER: JACKET SELECTED FEMME, BIB NECKLACE SAM UBHI —

32 STYLE FILE — 36 FASHION RADAR — 45 AUTUMN/WINTER 2014 WWB’s guide to the season — 46 NEW MODERNITY The experts at Trendstop interpret key catwalk trends for the season — 48 COLLECTION NEWS — 52 BRAND PREVIEW — 68 CHESSBOARD THEORY The key a/w 14 looks from contemporary and young fashion brands —

Crea Concept UK Ltd 34/35 Eastcastle Street 1st Floor London W1W 8DW Tel: 020 7 436 0631 Email: Paulette@creaconcept.co.uk

Autumn/Winter 2014

09 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JANUARY 2014

Editor Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com — Contributors Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Kirkpatrick laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — Sub editor Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — Design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — Sales manager Sam Shaw sam@ras-publishing.com — Subscriptions Caroline Mackinnon caroline@ite-moda.co.uk — Production director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — Portfolio director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com — Reprographics/printing ImageData Group 01482 652323

— WWB is published 11 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 — Copyright © 2014 WWB Magazine Limited.

All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

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RAS Publishing is an ITE Group PLC company A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication WWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include MWB and CWB.

COMMENT —

AS I CAUGHT UP WITH A HOST OF INDEPENDENTS FOR THIS ISSUE, IT WAS GOOD TO HEAR THAT MANY OF YOU ARE FEELING A SENSE OF CAUTIOUS OPTIMISM ABOUT 2014.

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A new year always signifies a new beginning, but it’s fair to say that for most indies the last few years have started with a sense of trepidation. So I was relieved, surprised to a degree even, to hear that many of you are entering 2014 with a positive – or shall we say defiant – outlook, having had a reasonably good Christmas trading period, and a healthy start to s/s 14, with early deliveries having got off to a strong start.

With the economy reportedly showing first tentative signs of recovery, many indies have told me they can feel consumer confidence returning, and have noticed that more people are willing to spend their cash again. This of course is good news, but it’s unlikely that consumers will become frivolous with their hard-earned cash. It is still up to indies to make sure that their product mix is desirable, relevant and offers value for money and a point of difference from the high street and other competition, and this is a task that is often easier done in theory than executed in practice. As the a/w 14 buying season gets into full swing, shows such as Bread & Butter and Scoop are kicking off the womenswear exhibition calendar this month, and our team will be out in force to see what brands have to offer this season, and how you, the buyers, will be translating this into your shops.

This issue once again offers a

comprehensive guide to a/w 14, giving an overview of the key trends, the new launches and the brands to watch for the season, and judging by the wealth of press previews and collection information that has landed on our desks, a/w 14 has some commercial looks and saleable merchandise on offer, with a definitive luxurious and upmarket direction at the core.

On that note, I wish you all a prosperous 2014 and a successful buying season. And don’t forget to say hello if you bump into myself or the team at any of the shows or to share your views by emailing me or tweeting @wwbmagazine.

Isabella Griffiths, editor

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NEWS —

CAUTIOUS OPTIMISM DOMINATES AMONG INDIES Although most retailers feel confident about the start of s/s 14, indies will be keeping a tight rein on budgets for a/w 14.

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Covered Independent retailers have entered 2014 with a sense of cautious optimism, following a healthy Christmas trading season and an expected good start to s/s 14 amid reports of regained consumer confidence. However, despite a positive outlook, most will be erring on the side of caution when it comes to a/w 14 buying, with many placing an even stronger emphasis on short-order labels to be more reactive to trends and the unpredictable weather.

In Dundee, Karen Charles, owner of womenswear indie Patricia Forbes, feels positive about the New Year, but will be reducing her forward-order budget for a/w 14 to take some of the risk out of buying. “I’m feeling optimistic about the New Year,” she says. “We’ve had a very good start to s/s 14, with the early deliveries having sold well.

“I feel that customer confidence is improving, particularly on special-occasion wear, so I’m hoping for a good year,” she continues. “Going into the next buying season, however, I will be reducing my budget because, for us, a/w is such a short season – people only really buy a/w clothes from September to November, so I don’t want to buy too much stock. I’m upping my budget for short order, because I can judge stock levels better that way.”

This is mirrored by Shelley Lambert,

manager at Bridge in Solihull. “We are feeling optimistic about the business at the moment,” she says. “We’ve got some lovely s/s stock coming in, and customer confidence has noticeably improved; people are willing to spend more money again. As we’re going into a/w 14 buying, we will be maintaining our budgets, however we will be more careful and analytical about what we are buying, and we’ll be stocking more coats than we did this season, and some more partywear, as both categories have done well for us this a/w.”

In Dartmouth, Sarah Hanafee, manager of Danielli, paints a similar picture.

“I’m feeling positive about the New Year and going into s/s 14,” she says. “I think the fact that we had better weather last year helped us, and it will hopefully bring customers in again.

“There is an element of customers being more positive and comfortable with parting with their money,” she continues. “I think people are aware that things are starting to get better in terms of the economy.”

Entering into a/w 14 buying, however, Hanafee will be taking a measured approach in order to minimise the risks of forward ordering. “I’m going to be more cautious,” she says. “I’m not going to reduce my budget overall, but I will use more of it for short ordering, because of the weather.

With short ordering you can react more

“There is an element of customers being more positive and comfortable with parting with their money. I think people are aware that things are starting to get better in terms of the economy”

quickly to changes in the weather and, as we’re based in a holiday resort, that’s important. Separates in particular are on our wish list as well as styles that will carry through from season to season.”

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NEWS —

SME ONLINE RETAILERS TO COMBINE CLICKS AND BRICKS One in six UK SME (small and medium enterprises) online retailers are planning to expand into physical stores in 2014 as online competition for sales grows, according to research conducted by Royal Mail. The annual study of more than 400 UK SME online retailers found that 16 per cent expected to launch into a physical store or seek space in an existing store to increase its sales in 2014.

MANGO LAUNCHES PLUS-SIZE RANGE Spanish high-street chain Mango is expanding its product portfolio with the launch of Violeta by Mango, a young fashion collection covering sizes 12-24. The range will launch for s/s 14 and will initially comprise 400 styles, with additional monthly top-ups.

An exclusive team of 40 experts in various disciplines has been gathered to create Violeta, with careful emphasis on technical patterns that translate from size to size and with a high-quality focus.

The range will initially launch in Mango’s seven largest markets, including France, Germany, Italy, the Netherlands, Turkey, Russia and Spain, with the first stores to open in Mango’s home market.

The collection will also be available in online stores in Europe, Turkey and Russia.

Fifty retail outlets are forecast during the first half of the year, with another 50 to be added in the second half. The target is to end 2014 with 100 stores in premises measuring around 350 sq m.

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BARBOUR COLLABORATES WITH CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN Heritage outerwear brand Barbour is teaming up with British fashion designer Christopher Raeburn on a special-edition womenswear collection for a/w 14, inspired

by Barbour’s military archives.

Raeburn is known for his re-appropriation of military fabrics incorporating detail, form and function, and in particular for iconic outerwear created from de-commissioned parachutes.

The Barbour x Raeburn range takes its inspiration from the story of the Ursula jacket in Barbour’s archives. Using a mix of fabrics, Raeburn has reinterpreted Barbour’s famous tartan alongside his own signature snow spot print, bringing together the iconic symbols of both brands. The line, which goes into selected stores from August 2014, features jackets, knitwear, shirts and shirt dresses with a small selection of accessories.

Sarah Lawrenson, Barbour’s head of womenswear, says, “We are delighted to be working with Christopher Raeburn. Together, we have created a range that not only captures the essence of Barbour’s military heritage, but also reflects the signature handwriting of both brands.”

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CAPSULE JOINS REED EXHIBITIONS Global trade show Capsule has been bought by event organiser Reed Exhibitions. Capsule is held 12 times a year, in Paris, Berlin, New York and Las Vegas, and specialises in both the contemporary men’s and womenswear market. The show, which has been independently operated by fashion consultancy BPMW since its inception in 2007, will join Reed’s current portfolio, which includes trade show Agenda. The transaction was completed in late December and terms were not disclosed.

NIKE AND ADIDAS TIGHTEN SALES REGULATIONS According to reports, sportswear giants Nike and Adidas have told UK and Irish independent retailers that unless they meet the minimum sales requirement of £25,000 of apparel and footwear per year, the companies will stop supplying their goods. Adidas sent its independent retailers a letter last November that stipulated the company would cancel smaller accounts if they were insufficient and did not sell the required quota of goods. A company spokesperson for Nike, meanwhile, stated that the company requires “its European retail partners, no matter the size of such partners, to meet an annual minimum-order level in order to support the necessary operational costs associated with delivering the best product presentation and consumer experience at the point of sale.”

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NEWS —

BESTSELLER POPS UP IN SELFRIDGES Danish fashion labels Vero Moda, Yas and Noisy May have made an appearance at high-end department store Selfridges, with the launch of a new pop-up in the Oxford Street store.

The brands, part of the Vero Moda stable, which belongs to the Bestseller Group umbrella of labels, have taken up residence for a minimum of two months, showcasing an edited selection of their key styles for s/s 14.

A spokesperson for the brands called the move “a huge step for Vero Moda Group in the UK, proving a strong affirmation of the continued success for Vero Moda and exciting future for Yas and Noisy May.” Young fashion label Vero Moda is among the flagship brands of the stable, having been one of the first labels to be launched within the group. Fashion-forward jeans brand Noisy May was launched in s/s 13, while Yas was introduced to the market for a/w 13 as a contemporary label specialising in high-end design at affordable prices.

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Noisy May

Yas

BREAD & BUTTER WIDENS THE NET German trade show Bread & Butter is to embark on a change in direction next year, when it plans to open up the show to consumers.

Starting with its July 2014 edition, the event will introduce two public days to its regular trade show schedule, taking the duration of the exhibition to five days, on 8-12 July.

The first day will be reserved for press, top bloggers and invited VIP guests, while the second and third days will remain focused on professional buyers and trade visitors. During the fourth and fifth days, however, the show will be opened up to the public, where exhibiting labels have the option of promoting their brands to the end consumer.

“The different groups of interest will continue to be invited in a focused and selective way,” says Karl-Heinz Müller, founder and managing director of Bread & Butter. “During the Professional Days, end consumers will not be admitted to the fair.

We can guarantee this, since Bread & Butter is equipped with an experienced, active guest management. Of course, the brands will no longer tag their collections with the purchase prices, since these should naturally not be accessible for the end consumer.”

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MID-MARKET RETAILERS SUFFER DECEMBER SALES DROP According to the latest data released by accountancy and business advisory firm BDO, retail sales for December haven’t provided relief for the British middle-market high street, such as French Connection, Hobbs and Gap. The firm’s High Street Sales Tracker survey, which outlines the weekly like-for-like sales changes of 85 mid-tier chain retailers, showed that overall like-for-like sales for middle market retailers in December was down 2.2 per cent on a year-on-year basis.

INTEL COMBINES TECHNOLOGY AND FASHION Technology giant Intel is expanding into the fashion sector with a partnership with Barneys New York, the Council of Fashion Designers of America and Opening Ceremony to produce “wearable tech”. Announced at the International Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegas last month, Intel explained it was hoping that the partnership will accelerate wearable device innovation and increase dialogue between fashion and technology industries.

KEY NAMES BAN USE OF ANGORA Asos, H&M, Next, Esprit and Topshop among others have agreed to stop selling angora products after the release of last month’s graphic video of a PETA investigation into angora farms in China. Asos confirmed it was banning and pulling from its shelves any products made with angora with immediate effect.

HARVEY JACOBSON NAMED AS BACKER OF BARRATTS Harvey Jacobson, chairman of the Jacobson Group, has been named as one of the backers to have acquired the intellectual property of troubled footwear retailer Barratts. Barratts entered administration in November, with financial advisory firm Duff & Phelps appointed after mounting losses brought on by poor trading conditions.

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NEWS —

PLATFORM LONDON OPENS ITS DOORS

LIPSY UNVEILS NEW STORE DESIGN

A new trade show dedicated to upmarket footwear brands is making its debut for a/w 14. Platform London, taking place on 9-10 February at The Westbury Gallery in the Westbury Hotel, Conduit St, Mayfair, has been launched by Gerard Levy, multi-brand agent and owner of footwear store Spice London.

Young fashion and partywear brand Lipsy has launched a new store concept with the opening of its latest retail store at Watford’s Intu shopping mall last month.

The show offers a hand-picked selection of international shoe designers and brands.

Confirmed exhibitors including Audley, Avril Gau, Beyond Skin, C.Doux, Camper, Chie Mihara, Coclico, J Shoes, Anaid Kupuri, Lalil, Lola Cruz, Megumi Ochi, Ras, TF Slack and Zinda, which will exhibit in an exclusive, clean and contemporary setting, with white tables and Louis Ghost chairs, Bourgie Lamp and plinths, as well as a refreshment area dressed with furniture by Philippe Starck. For more information on the event call 07790 384170 or visit www.platformldn.co.uk.

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The shop marks a new retail direction for the brand, with accessible luxury the main motto, reflected by a simple marble and gold palette and a play of different materials. Next Plc subsidiary Lipsy appointed high-profile interior design firm Dalziel and Pow to create the new store environment, which will become the blueprint for a further roll-out.

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ASH OPENS NEW COVENT GARDEN FLAGSHIP STORE Italian footwear brand Ash opened a new flagship store on King Street in Covent Garden at the end of last month. It is the fourth London store for the brand, which has branches on the King’s Road, Marylebone and Kensington Church Street.

The Ash shop portrays an innovative store concept, successfully combining contemporary features with Ash’s signature vintage design to create a chic ambience. The interior utilises original visual merchandising techniques to ensure an exclusive yet intimate shopping experience that reflects a distinctive and aspirational lifestyle.

Ash footwear and accessories from the mainline, sport and Mexican collections will be available in the Covent Garden store as well as limited-edition products exclusive to the flagship.

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PERSONAL SHOPPER TECHNOLOGY ARRIVES IN UK Technology designed to offer consumers alternative shopping options based on a simple image will soon be available in the UK, having been trialled successfully in the US. FindSimilar software – developed in the UK by Cortexica Vision Systems – mimics the way the brain processes an image to present a range of shopping possibilities to consumers, based on a camera phone snap of a catwalk image or a mannequin. Search results generated by the software are based on a combination of pattern, style, colour and overall design, and allow the consumer to find a similar style that is more accessibly priced, or simply closer to their personal taste.

THE HUB LAUNCHES THE GREENHOUSE Hong Kong trade show The HUB has launched The Greenhouse, an incubator initiative for emerging design talent from across the globe. The show’s second edition, taking place on 25-27 February at Asia World Expo, will play host to the new area, dedicated to around 50 young and progressive international labels. With its own distinct design and ambiance, The Greenhouse is set to resemble a chic showroom in Paris or London. Participants include Haizhen Wang, PPQ and JeanPierre Braganza. The HUB was launched last season to bring together premium fashion brands from across the world with the rising Asian markets.

MICHAEL SIMON NAMED NEW OLSEN MD Michael Simon has joined Veldhovem Group as managing director of its newly acquired Olsen brand. Simon’s career spans more than 20 years in various management positions within the fashion and retail industry.

His previous positions include managing director of sales and marketing at Gelco, COO at S.Oliver and CEO at Gardeur.

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PROMOTION —

INSIDE AND OUT Following the appointment of a new in-house country manager, Bitte Kai Rand heralds a new era for a/w 14 with the launch of its directional new outerwear collection.

— As the latest collection from Bitte Kai Rand makes its debut on the autumn catwalks, the story behind the clean lines and design twists enters a whole new chapter for a brand in the midst of international development. Having brought its UK operation in-house with the appointment of new country manager Rachel Wiles, the Danish brand is investing into its UK and Ireland markets for the new season as part of a wider global expansion plan across Europe and beyond.

Bringing the pure, timeless and clean design DNA directly from the brand’s HQ at Copenhagen’s Old Harbour, Bitte Kai Rand increases its focus on the UK sector with a comprehensive approach to raising product awareness among its UK stockists. Comprising on-the-road support and the opening of a new London showroom, the label’s new point of contact will work closely with retailers to increase sell-through and raise product awareness from design concept to finished product.

Debuting with the label’s a/w 14 collection, the sleek and contemporary showroom on West London’s Newman Street provides the backdrop for the brand’s latest offer of outerwear and beyond, unveiling a directional collection with decomposition and formation as its headlines. Playing with symmetry and broken patterns, new shapes are created through the addition of layers, while classical shapes are given new life through asymmetric cuts and the cool and elegant use of contrast ribbons. Sand-washed winter linen, transparent silk chiffon and fluid drapes lend an uncharacteristic lightness to an autumnal collection, mixing easily with a heavier, structured jersey for effortless winter styling.

The brand stays loyal to its hallmarks through its strong knitwear collection, which this season features a range of soft winter pastels alongside stronger shades of red, pink and green. Midnight blue, meanwhile, is introduced as a new shade, presented alongside a lighter blue and nuances of grey, offering the possibility to mix with the brand’s signature graphical blacks and whites.

It’s a collection that draws upon the heritage and diversity of a brand whose history spans three decades. Since its inception in 1981, Bitte Kai Rand has established itself as one of Denmark’s leading fashion houses, making a name for itself as a label with a high degree of functionality, a focus on quality, and an advanced edge cutting through its timeless design. Six deliveries a year offer a constant stream of fresh ideas, incorporating current trends into the design consistency of one of the industry’s most coveted labels.

Now reinventing its business model for the new season, the UK market is in the spotlight for a/w 14, and Bitte Kai Rand is set to further establish itself as the name to watch for a/w 14 and beyond.

See the collection at Pure London, Premium Berlin, Gallery Copenhagen and Coterie New York and Vegas.

Rachel Wiles, country manager for UK & Ireland, 07463 645670. Email: england@bittekairand.com Showroom located at 33 Newman Street, London W1T 1PY. www.bittekairand.com/uk

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PEOPLE —

BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear —

FIRST POSITION FOR VIVIENNE WESTWOOD VIVIENNE WESTWOOD’S COSTUMES FOR THE PRESTIGIOUS INTERMISSION BALLET AT THE NEW YEAR’S DAY CONCERT OF THE VIENNA PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA WERE INSPIRED BY THE EXQUISITE SETTING FOR THE BALLET – THE BAROQUE PALAIS LIECHTENSTEIN IN THE HEART OF VIENNA. THE COSTUMES, WHICH ALSO REFERENCE PIECES FROM THE DESIGNER’S OWN ARCHIVES, REFLECT THE OPULENT INTERIORS OF THE RECENTLY RENOVATED PALACE AND THE ARISTOCRATIC LIFESTYLES OF THE PAST. —

PARADISE FOUND IN NORTH LONDON It was wintery outside, but Elite Swim turned The Paradise in London’s Kensal Green into an “actual” tropical paradise for the day for its recent 2014 collections press event, showcasing Aguaclara, Baku, Ginja, Hurley, Maria Bonita by PHAX and Elite Apparel’s WAXX, Cheapo and Uberluv. Guests were treated to tiki cocktails and exotic fruit platters, while male dancers The Rollin Dices entertained with their acrobatic dance routine and the female models showed off the swimwear collections on the catwalk, to a soundtrack of chilled summer tunes.

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“

The Natwest UK Fashion & Textile Awards, run

by The UK Fashion & Textile Association, will return on 22 May at East London’s Tobacco Dock. The event celebrates the success of the UK fashion industry, as well as the talent, brands and manufacturers that make it so inspiring and influential.

© Suzi Ovens

Grand total for Retail Trust

▲

SMALL BUSINESS SATURDAY SUCCESS

The Retail Trust’s Grand Scottish Ball, which took place in December at the Glasgow Hilton, raised The UK’s first Small Business Saturday, on 7 over £100,000 for the charity, which supports all December, has been hailed a success. those who work in the retail sector.

According to a poll by American Express, Despite the adverse weather just under half (48%) of UK consumers conditions that had HAPPY were aware of the campaign, which aimed BIRTHDAY threatened cancellation, to encourage people to shop locally with — over 300 people attended a series of promotions and incentives.

Now Britain’s oldest person, the event, which featured Of those consumers, over half (57%) 113-year-old Ethel Lang a dinner, live music and a shopped at a local, independently owned worked as a seamstress at charity tombola.

Double Two and Wm Sugdens business, with 43% of shoppers choosing Barnsley shirt factory from — to do so specifically because of Small the age of 13 in 1913.

Business Saturday.

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PROMOTION —

MORE NEW NAMES MORE NEW IDEAS ONLY AT MODA WITH THE SHOW NOW JUST FOUR WEEKS AWAY, MODA REVEALS MORE BRAND NEW NAMES AND THE MOST ESSENTIAL EVENTS PROGRAMME SO FAR. —

Rino & Pelle

F

or any womenswear retailer in search of the new names and fresh new ideas that will take their business forward in 2014, next month’s edition of Moda should be the most essential date on this season’s calendar. In four weeks’ time the show will be unveiling its most exciting line-up so far of brand new arrivals, alongside an unmissable programme of catwalk shows, expert seminars and industry debates featuring some of the leading names in UK independent retail.

You’ll find new names in every area of the show this season, including the Moda debut of leading German label Brax, showing its British-inspired autumn/winter 2014 collection alongside the likes of Atelier

Damo

Gardeur, Bianca, Toni and Steilmann.

Also showing for the first time is Dutch leather and outerwear brand Rino & Pelle, as well as fellow Dutch outerwear collection Blaest and French label Coline, whose collection mixes easy and sometimes sporty shapes with rich colours and ethnic-inspired prints.

Moda White, the area of the show dedicated to contemporary womenswear, this season features its biggest line-up of international brands so far, with established names such as James Lakeland, Elisa Cavaletti, Sahara and Mado now joined by a raft of new names. Outerwear specialist Damo, leading French knitwear and tops label Leo Guy and casual and contemporary brand Cristyn & Co are all new at Moda

Elisa Cavaletti

James Lakeland

White this season, along with new collections from independent womenswear favourites Eden Rock, Northland and Suzy D. Moda’s unbeatable evening and occasionwear offer has now been brought together in brand new area Moda Noir, where leading names such as John Charles, Mascara, Mon Cheri and Dynasty will also be joined by a host of collections new to Moda. Look out for new eveningwear arrivals G Kat and Anoola, as well as occasionwear label Linea Raffaelli, which will be showcasing its autumn/winter range at Moda for the first time in a number of years.

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PROMOTION —

MODA AT YOUR FINGERTIPS

GET YOUR STORE FIT FOR THE FUTURE

Alice Hannah

Lotus

Adorned, the area of Moda Accessories dedicated to new and niche names, also grows in size this season, featuring new brands including jewellery label Miss Milly and vintage-inspired jewellery and accessories brand Lovett & Co. They’ll be joining labels such as Eliza Gracious, returning with its directional collection of necklaces and bracelets, and handbag label Ahn & Art, introducing quirky new apple and dachshund designs. Elsewhere at Moda Accessories, look out for a debut appearance for the handbag and footwear collection from Zandra Rhodes, along with knitted accessories from Alice Hannah, vibrant socks from Solmate and versatile jewellery from MelanO. Dr Martens heads up the list of new arrivals at Moda Footwear, with the iconic British brand bringing its full women’s, men’s and kids’ collections to the show for the first time. The UK’s largest footwear exhibition will also be hosting a strong contingent of Spanish footwear labels this season, including Hispanitas, Marian, Luis Gonzalo and 24 Hrs, alongside women’s footwear collections from brands such as Lotus, Sorel, Joules, Butterfly Twists, Moda in Pelle, Lisa Kay and Fly London.

With more than 25 presentations taking place across the duration of the show, Moda’s seminar and debate programme is your chance to hear expert advice on the latest innovations in retail, and get the inside story on some of the biggest successes in independent fashion.

With social media now one of retail’s hottest marketing tools, find out from SEO and e-commerce solutions expert Jonny Ross how to turn tweets and likes into customers and cash with a look at the best way to get the most out of Twitter, Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest and the ever-growing number of new social media platforms. Social media will also be one of the topics looked at by Simon Shepherd, director of strategic marketing network NXO, whose presentation Smarter Marketing will be a must see for any retailer with great ideas but finite resources.

Other highlights include David Abbott, director of Insight Best Practice, who will take an equally practical but no less inspirational approach to e commerce with his seminar, Tips for Successful E-tailing. If that sounds simple it’s because these are ideas that every retailer selling online can implement and profit from, as well as being an inspirational introduction for anyone about to take their first online steps. Offering an expert view on the essential topic of visual merchandising, meanwhile, will be Eve Reid, director and founder of Metamorphosis Group, whose work with retailers of all sizes has included the development of a range of innovative visual merchandising solutions.

If you’re visiting the show on Monday, don’t miss this season’s Big Industry Debate, taking place on the Hall 17 stage at 10.45am.

Hear the insider’s view on some of the key topics in retail from a retail panel including Hilary Haresign of Snooty Frox in Harrogate, Claire Wright of Gemini in Stratford-Upon-Avon and Alexandra Boardman of Alexandra’s in Keswick. Find the full seminar schedule at www.moda-uk.co.uk and on the Moda app.

This season’s Moda app is available to download, delivering everything you need to know about the UK’s largest trade fashion exhibition directly into the palm of your hand. Regularly updated between now and the show, the app features full exhibitor listings, plans of every sector of the show, details and times for all seminars and events, and will show you the fastest route between the brands you want to see to ensure you get the most out of your time of the show.

Simply visit the app store and search for Moda Events.

MODA ONLINE As well as the complete guide to all Moda shows, the Moda website – moda-uk.co.uk – is also the place to find the latest news from exhibitors, find out more about both new arrivals and established brands and arrange appointments at the show. By registering free of charge to use the site’s Community zone, you’ll be able to arrange appointments online, request additional information from suppliers ahead of the show, and network with brands and other retailers 365 days a year. Simply head to the site and click Community.

For information on all the latest signings, full details of the catwalk and seminar programmes and to register for your free ticket visit moda-uk.co.uk.

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OPINION —

TALKING POINT Key industry players give their views on the issues that affect womenswear.

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ANOTHER STAB IN THE BACK FROM BRUSSELS

MAKE YOUR MERCHANDISE AS UNIQUE AS YOUR STORE

I receive numerous emails daily from manufacturers around the globe wanting to produce jeans for my company. My answer is always the same – I am extremely proud of the fact that we manufacture Wizard Jeans in the UK.

Fashion by its very definition is a constantly changing machine. Most of the time change is for the good but, sometimes, when the economy is hard and the tills are quiet, it can be both challenging and scary.

When we started the company in late 2009, we initially made our jeans in China but after a huge amount of research and no help from the Department of Trade and Industry, we found a company in the UK, which was a bit like finding the proverbial needle in a haystack.

So, yesterday, plop into my ever full Inbox came an email from Pakistan asking if they could supply me with jeans. The added bonus of working with them, they explained, was that The European Parliament has approved GSP status to Pakistan’s manufacturers and exporters to 27 European countries until 2017 – in short “duty free” into our already struggling marketplace. I was shocked and amazed that our politicians have yet again scored an own goal.

How can Brussels be allowed to do this to our seriously fragile and struggling manufacturing industry? Our manufacturer struggles – we all struggle in the UK. The big stores on the high street do not support British manufacturing in the way they should because they are keener to increase their margins without any consideration of what they are doing to the manufacturers in their own country. They continue to give unscrupulous manufacturers overseas the opportunity to thrive, with their workforce either under-age or working in conditions that should be condemned in more ways than one. How can the government, hand on heart, say they are supporting British manufacturing?

We all know how hard it is out there, whether you are in business or in employment – but keeping a few fundamental principles in tack is surely important too. Our high streets are dead and no doubt will never be the same again – but the entrepreneurial British spirit and “back against the wall” determination will find a way through, with different types of businesses springing up.

At Wizard Jeans, we are lucky that our business model is mostly based on the Internet, because our high-street sales have dropped by over half while the Internet has thrived. We have also decided to target overseas markets and have recently signed an exclusive distribution deal for Australia and New Zealand, where they would not have taken our jeans if they had not been Made in Britain – they see that as a huge selling point.

Isn’t it sad that our government and high-street department stores don’t feel the same?

This has been borne out by the many conversations I have had recently with anxious retailers. Many are generally concerned with our great nation’s spending habits, with the ever-strong high street and of course the growing online trade. What we have to remember is that independents still have enormous strengths that the high street and online businesses could only wish for. This is a time to reflect, play to those strengths and instead of being nervous, look at the true facts and embrace the changes, empowering yourself with the knowledge that the strength of fashion independents throughout the UK still reigns supreme.

Let’s look at the true breakdown of fashion online sales. The biggest sector is the younger high fashion market and designer labels. This stands to reason – this young generation grew up with the Internet and not all of them live near the big cities that house these en vogue or prestigious labels. Fuelled by unrealistic images in fashion magazines, it’s not surprising that 38 per cent of these online sales result in returns. This statistic is often overlooked.

I think it is also fair to point out that the majority of the UK’s fashion independents would not be affected by this level of trading, and whilst we all listen to horror stories of the Internet wiping out other sectors, this is clearly not the case with the fashion independent.

Thankfully the UK is still known as a nation of shopkeepers, and we are fortunate to be in a business where the mere touch and feel of a garment can seduce even the most hardened spend-thrift.

Emotion aside, it is still business and looking at your product offer every season should be a given. Take time to look at new labels or maybe revisit labels not seen in a while. Sadly, I walk into gorgeous independents to be faced with the same labels and sometimes the same colour capsule as their neighbour in the next town. We complain about chain stores with the same merchandise rolled out across the UK, so seize this point of difference, as surely this is where you can really score points. There are certainly enough labels out there to make your merchandise as unique as your store, your personalised service and fantastic staff, so wouldn’t it be great if everyone could mix it up just a bit and step outside of their comfort zone? The UK is still one of the strongest independent fashion markets in Europe. Let’s celebrate that fact and strive harder to make it bigger, stronger and more diverse than ever before.

Sally Allen-Gerard, founder and director, Wizard Jeans

Diane Sykes, sales manager, Hauber UK

1 9 - 2 1 J A N U A R Y 2 014 S C O O P - I N T E R N AT I O N A L . C O M LONDON           

Pure Stand J 88 Moda, NEC Stand 140

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Copyright © 2012 - 2015 Frank Saul Fashions and/ or its suppliers. All rights reserved © Crown copyright 2011. All rights reserved

25 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JANUARY 2013

REPORT —

THE ONLY WAY IS UP: BOOSTINGYOUR BUSINESS FROM WITHIN Thierry Bayle, founder of business consultancy Global Fashion Management, looks at ways that can make a huge difference to the profitability of a fashion retail business.

— You’re desperately trying to move a/w 13 stock before the s/s 14 goods arrive.

You’re probably also working on some marketing ideas to boost sales once the new stock is on the floor. Life on the shop floor is busy, but let’s take a second and discover a few tips that will continue to work long after the fresh goods have started to look tired.

Let’s start with the vision and strategy for your business. Is your master plan in your head or have you also committed it to paper? It needs to be written down so you can refer to it at frequent intervals and also update or adapt it as necessary. This will keep you on track, remind you why you adopted this approach and keep your eyes on the prize. Then there’s the question of focus. This is where you share your vision and strategy with your team, so that you are all singing from the same song sheet. Make sure that the sales team know and understand your vision and strategy for the business. Why? Because if they don’t understand what you are trying to do or why, how can you expect them to help you? It’s important to revisit the objectives regularly, to check that you and your team are meeting them. Reminding them why you are following a particular path will help to focus them and help them to own their job, not just rent it.

The result should be significantly more engaged and motivated staff and, hopefully, better profits.

You’re sceptical? Recently, I worked with a menswear shop where the owner was having problems motivating his sales team. I talked to the sales staff, which told me, “It’s him and us – he sits in the office out the back with his computer and we don’t know what’s going on. We don’t even know if we’ll have jobs this time next week.” I explained this to the owner and we organised a meeting where he talked the sales team through his strategy and explained to them what he was trying to do. He was also asked to work on it weekly with the team. Eureka! After two months, things had improved enormously. Staff motivation had changed dramatically and total sales per staff and conversion rates had increased – his sales figures were starting to look healthier. See what I mean?

Having established vision and strategy, it’s important to make sure you have processes in place so the team – and you – know precisely, according to your minimum

standards and values, how to handle an angry customer, collect customer data such as mobile, email, first name, date of birth and so on. A process is also required to handle faulty or late goods coming from the brands you are buying.

Make sure all the tasks that are important in the business have a clear process.

Staff training and motivation play a key role in the success of a retail business. In any job, people need to know exactly what is expected of them. As well as telling them, it needs to be written down as a job description (or to-do list) in order to provide clear guidelines on what they should be doing and how you want them to do it.

On the training front, don’t assume anything. What may be second nature to you may simply not occur to your staff. Check that everyone has the right tools and skills for the job with regular training sessions. Focus on one topic at a time and keep these sessions low-key to avoid alienating more experienced members of the team. Make sure they are followed up with some careful observation of the training in action – praise them when they perform well; comment and correct constructively where necessary. Training needs to be regular in order to be effective, with the messages repeated at regular intervals.

Ask your team for their input to generate sales ideas – they know your customers as well as you do and will appreciate being consulted. It pays to accept that you might not always be right. One retailer I know stocks a particular dress brand. It’s increasingly hard to sell, but he doesn’t want to change it – he claims his clients still want the brand. His staff disagree and thinks he should update the dress offering. Sometimes you need to listen to your team, be open to new ideas and look closely at how your customer base is evolving.

Scary as it may sound, measuring productivity, yours and that of your staff, can help to boost profitability. In order to measure sales productivity over time, you need to be able to set markers so that you can track progress. Without these, you can’t accurately see how it develops. However, before you start designing charts and spreadsheets, it’s worth bearing these points in mind – the members of staff need to know exactly

what their job entails and what they should be doing – does everyone have a job description? They need to know how to do their job – have you trained them? They need to know why they are doing it – have you shared your vision and values for the business with them?

When we talk about productivity in a retail environment, we mean the effectiveness of the sales staff. The bottom line here is did they sell, and how much? This needs to be broken down by factors such as: • How many customers came into the shop?

• How many sales were achieved (the conversion rate)?

• The average value per transaction – due to part-time employees, calculate it per hour worked • The average number of units per transaction One of our clients had three womenswear boutiques. While his sales in units were impressive, he wanted to boost sales in Pounds.

He brought in new brands to get his customers to trade up, but little changed for the first half of the new season. It turned out that the sales team knew very little about the new stock and didn’t feel confident recommending it, although they certainly weren’t steering customers away from it. We suggested that he took the time to work on product knowledge and styling issues with the team. At the same point the following season, the new brands were selling well and the monthly sales had increased in value by 18 per cent.

Finally, here are a few words about implementing changes (which is, broadly, what I’ve been talking about). When new ideas and plans are put in place, they will only work if they are followed through.

It only makes sense to change the way you work if it improves things. Allow for mistakes – this is how you learn, just don’t make too many. Look back over your history – examine incidents that may have resulted in your staff being reluctant to embrace change now. Set plans for change within the context of a long-term goal. The key thing with change is follow-through. It’s important to stay focused and maintain the momentum.

Global Fashion Management provides UK and continental European retailers a guaranteed success route to better managing their two greatest assets – stock and people. It has worked closely with retailers for 20 years, and has over 400 clients in Europe and the US. Call +44 (0) 20 8576 6233, email thierry@globalfashionmanagement.com, visit www.globalfashionmanagement.com or Tweet @RetailFashion

PLEASE TOUCH IT’S CASHMERE. SCARVES ARE OUR WORLD.

SHOWING AT PURE LONDON FEBRUARY 2014.

LOUISE.SHORE@FRAAS.COM

T: 020 74 86 8916

FR A AS.COM

28 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JANUARY 2014

INTERVIEW —

Q&A

Ray Kelvin — Ray Kelvin, Ted Baker’s enigma of a CEO, and a CBE no less, has character in abundance, but rarely seems to talk to the press and still hides his face because he says, “It’s sexier to conceal than to reveal.” But, for the launch of a short film showcasing the new men’s and women’s s/s 14 collections, he decided to take centre stage and field questions about the brand he’s built for the last 25 years.

Tom Bottomley pulled up a chair.

—

29 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JANUARY 2014

Tom Bottomley: Did you ever envisage when you started out that you’d have a global fashion brand?

Ray Kelvin: No, I can’t believe it. In my previous life, I was faceless supplier to the high street with womenswear. I felt I had to develop a brand to get on, because I was so frustrated as a designer. I was asked to make a ladies’ blouse, but “to do something a little bit different”, so I made one with three sleeves.

TB: You initially started out just with Ted Baker men’s shirts, right?

RK: Yes, I started out with a small shop in Glasgow making and selling men’s shirts, and slowly building a wholesale network – literally one at a time. Ian Draper came on board from day one as our sales agent and he’s still with us. As a company, we now employ something like 3,500 people around the world.

TB: People began talking about the brand when you started selling in Harrods, how did that come about?

RK: It was 1989, a year after starting up, and I got a call from a Harrods buyer saying, “I’m Fiona Staniland from Harrods – we’ve seen your shirts in Glasgow and we love them.” I put the phone down because I thought it was someone messing me around. She phoned back and said, “We’ve seen your shirts and we’d like to do some business with you.” And that was it. I started with a small concession in Way In. Everything was small to begin with. I didn’t have big money.

TB: Was there a significant time where you really established Ted Baker?

RK: In the late 80s and early 90s we had a big hit with a shirt. I found a fabric made out of viscose and rayon and turned it into a lot of money. I put my own mark on the fabric and called it Ted Knows It. It was worn by clubbers and ravers. I saw an opportunity and we did plains, prints, checks – everything in that fabric. We originally ordered 500 metres of fabric, which went to three million metres. That’s a lot of shirts. At the time, people were standing outside our shop in Covent Garden like there was a famine.

TB: Things are a bit different now – when did you float the business?

RK: It was 17 years ago – in 1997. The company was valued at £58m. We made £4m profit on £14m turnover. The company today is valued at £950m, with a £350m turnover.

We’re forecast to make £40m profit this year.

TB: Has this growth come from your expansion overseas?

RK: Well, a good 35 per cent of our turnover on retail is now overseas. The Middle East and Asia are good for us, and we’ve just started going into department stores across Europe – the main players in Germany, Spain and so on – and it’s going very well.

INTERVIEW —

“THE FABRICS HAVE ALWAYS BEEN THE BEST, AND WE’VE ALWAYS DESIGNED OUR OWN. I THINK THAT DOES MARK US OUT. IT’S ALSO GREAT QUALITY. FOR THE PRICE IT’S UNBELIEVABLE” TB: Is the UK still your strongest market?

RK: Yes it is. In terms of our retail it represents 65 per cent of our business. But wholesale business represents 30 per cent of our overall business.

TB: When you open stores, does it affect business with independents you may supply in the same towns?

RK: It shouldn’t. In fact, I think it benefits them. When we have concessions in department stores, quite often people might see us there but then go to the independent instead because I just think they like the personal service. Often, they have different product, too. I love independents. I was once an independent menswear retailer, or at least it was a family business where I worked on Saturdays and during school holidays. I also sometimes worked on markets such as Enfield and Hounslow selling women’s separates. My father had a small factory making women’s blouses. Before that, my grandfather had a menswear shop called B Factor in Edmonton, and my mother was born upstairs. My grandmother was serving a customer for a suit when she went into labour, and she wouldn’t leave the customer!

My uncle ended up taking over the business, and he also had a shop called Cheers in Enfield. When I worked there we sold brands such as Leroy, After Six, Levi’s, Falmer, Brutus, Honorbilt and Farah. It was the late 60s and the 70s. I still think about those days every day of the week. I loved it. We used to get all the Spurs and Arsenal footballers coming in, as well as local gangsters.

Customers included players such as John Radford, Ray Kennedy, Mike England and Steve Perryman. I still see Steve now.

TB: You produce all your own fabrics, is that an important factor to mark your product out from the crowd?

RK: The fabrics have always been the best, and we’ve always designed our own. I think that does mark us out. It’s also great quality.

For the price it’s unbelievable. Twice the product at half the price. We even have hand-embroidered dresses that are £2,000 but, from a high-end design house, it would be more like £6,000. That’s always been my

philosophy, to produce things that are fantastic quality. Nobody else will have our prints because we supply the suppliers with what we want. That goes for our licensed product, too, such as watches, shoes, eyewear and luggage – which isn’t out just yet.

Everything is designed in-house.

TB: Are any more store openings imminent?

RK: In a way, we’re going full circle because we’re launching a new flagship in Glasgow this spring. We have a store in Princes Square, but we’re moving to a bigger shop on Buchanan Street. It’s a better position and there’s greater footfall. They love us in Glasgow, and we love them.

TB: You also now have nine barber shops, when did that start to happen?

RK: It has been unbelievable. We have Turkish partners, and have people queuing up day and night to be served. We first launched it three years ago in Holborn. There are now eight standalone shops, and one in a Ted Baker store. They’re called Ted’s Grooming Room, and we’re opening another one in Covent Garden imminently. We’re also selling grooming products – that I designed – to Boots. It’s going to be massive.

We’re going to take on Wilkinson and Gillette for grooming products. Fragrances are also big time. Our business is very widespread, and that all comes under licensed income. We’re a big business, but we like to do things vertically. We do everything in-house as much as we possibly can, and we are claustrophobic in our management style.

TB: Do you go round to your shops yourself?

RK: I still work in them. I was in our Covent Garden shop on Saturday. I sell women’s and menswear. What sort of reaction do I get from customers? Well, I hug them, and they hug me, call me Ted and buy things. They say, “Can I take you out at the weekend?”

And I say, “Only if I pay for myself!” I don’t tell them my name’s Ray, because they want to know that there is a Ted Baker. When I started out I used a different name in case I went bankrupt.

TB: Do you still come up with the quirky windows?

RK: I used to, and still do, but I don’t come up with them all because I’ve got a team and I can’t do everything. I came up with the “cabinet re-shuffle” one, where there was a cabinet in the window with all the clothes shuffling inside. Funny that I’m seeing the Chancellor of the Exchequer, George Osborne, tonight. He’s invited people in business to go and talk to him because he has things he wants to share with us. I don’t mind him picking my brains either. After all, I’m a CBE, a Commander of the British Empire – I’ve got to give something back!

32 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JANUARY 2014

FASHION —

STYLE FILE The hottest brands not to miss this month —

▲ TIMELESS BAGS Ilex London’s latest collection continues with its signature style – luxurious and timeless chic that combines functionality. The brand focuses on best quality leathers, fine craftsmanship and attention to detail, with this season’s range full of elegant holdalls, clutches and handbags that will take the wearer from day to evening.

—

▲

PARKA LOVE Outerwear specialist Parka London has launched its s/s 14 collection, which once again puts the classic parka on a pedestal and brings out the beauty of this design classic.

The brand’s garments are classic yet modern and focus on the timeless qualities of the parka.

The collection features vivid brights such as reds and yellow, while detachable hoods, luxe linings, secret drawstrings and distinctive silhouettes also characterise the range.

—

STYLE FLASH — Faux fur accessories brand Helen Moore has launched a new website especially for trade customers. The site features all product ranges, videos of fabrics and an online order section.

—

▲ FLOWER POWER Language of Flowers is a British luxury T-shirt brand that combines style and quality with a romantic twist. Each style features hand-drawn illustrations in an array of colours, with the debut offering from the brand having already generated interest from fashionistas and celebs thanks to its relaxed and casual chic.

—

LF Markey makes luxury STYLE FLASH workwear with an emphasis — on silk workshirts, but now Launching to the UK this season, Hickies is a patented, also includes boilersuits, ground-breaking lacing work trousers and a whole system that replaces shoelaces and turns a shoe into a slip-on. line of printed pieces. The Hickies fit a wide range of brand was launched by shoes and comfort levels.

Australian-born and — London-based Louise Markey, who consulted for luxury labels before going it alone.

—

Newly launched Bang! swimwear is an edgy and ultra-sexy range.

The debut collection channels the two founders’ Caribbean roots, as well as being heavily influenced by rock music, with celebrity fans already including Rihanna.

— —

Tropical sunrise

The s/s 14 collection from swimwear label We Are Handsome has been named Tropic of Babylon and continues the brand’s popular swimwear cuts, including the scoop one-piece, the panel one-pieces and the Teeny Bikini. The brand’s celebrity following keeps growing, with Beyonce wearing one of its styles in her recent video, Pretty Hurts.

—

Preview the sensational new AW14 collection at the following shows:

Pure, 9th -11th February stand number R409

|

Moda, 16th 18th February stand number U10

Also see styles from our in-stock SS14 collection.

36 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JANUARY 2014

FASHION —

FASHION RADAR The hottest brands to look out for right now —

CUIR ROYAL

BLAKE LDN

Launching into the UK for a/w 14, German label Cuir Royal arrives at the premium end of the sector with its range of leather designs.

Currently in its second season, knitwear label Blake LDN is produced in the UK and offers a more socially responsible alternative to the luxury consumer.

Established: 2011

Established: 2012

Signature style: Leather garments made in Germany in contemporary yet wearable silhouettes.

Signature style: Contemporary knitwear sourced in Italy and Scotland and manufactured in Britain.

“Here I am, this is me” is the philosophy behind Cuir Royal.

Presenting a collection of designs in leather, ranging from everyday basics to extravagant models for the more daring consumer, the brand targets the premium womenswear customer with its collection of jackets, dresses, tops, trousers and skirts.

Cuir Royal debuts in the UK with a contemporary line featuring futuristic design details such as emphasised shoulders.

Printed and uni leathers are key, while the palette is dominated with shades of black, silver and turquoise.

Designed and founded by German fashion graduate Anja Herznach, the label hails from the historic city of Trier and is committed to German manufacture. This season will see the brand unveil a premium collection that wholesales from £222 to £587.

—

Inspired by the crispness and aesthetics of tennis culture, the third collection by Blake LDN references sports-luxe styling through its fine cotton and angora tanks and sweaters. Complemented by a soft summer palette of pale blue, peach and soft yellow, the latest pieces stay true to the brand’s roots of combining contemporary knitwear styling with the high quality of carefully selected yarns.

Focusing on sound sourcing and manufacturing, the Blake LDN collection is produced in the UK from merino wool, angora and Loro Piana cashmere sourced from Italy and Scotland.

The collection is designed and founded by Central St Martins graduate Alice Ashby, who has previously designed for New York label Rag & Bone and luxury knitwear brand the North Circular.

The spring collection builds upon the success of the label’s current a/w 13 range, which focuses on the traditional knits associated with ski culture such as beanie hats and chunky turtleneck sweaters.

—

Pure Stand J 88 Moda, NEC Stand 140 LBD Stand L 2

FRANK SAUL (FASHIONS) LTD. FRANK SAUL HOUSE, STEELE ROAD, PARK ROYAL, LONDON NW10 7AR TEL . + 44 (0) 208 965 1522

FAX. + 44 (0) 208 965 1518

E.MAIL. info@franksaul.com

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Copyright © 2012 - 2015 Frank Saul Fashions and/ or its suppliers. All rights reserved © Crown copyright 2011. All rights reserved

40 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JANUARY 2014

PROFILE —

CHIC & UNIQUE Italian label Elisa Cavaletti has been in the UK since 2010 and has gone from strength to strength each season with its individual and yet highly wearable look. WWB caught up with the brand’s founder, Daniela Dallavalle, to find out what makes the designer and the label tick.

—

W

hen you ask buyers what they are mainly looking for in a new label, nine times out of ten the answer is the elusive “something different”, “something with a twist” and “something exciting”. But only very few brands live up to these criteria and have a truly individual handwriting. Italian label Elisa Cavaletti, however, is one of these labels, with a look that is hard to categorise in the conventional way and a style that is contemporary but distinctive while timeless and exclusive. The label has become known for an embellished, heavily detailed head-to-toe look, with layering and a skilful mix of materials and dyeing techniques that appeal to a wide range of age groups and markets.

The brand was launched in 1989 by designer and artist Daniela Dallavalle and her husband Giuliano Cavaletti – and named after their daughter Elisa – with them both still at the helm of the family business, which occupies new 6,000 sq m headquarters in Carpi, Italy. “I created Elisa Cavaletti at the end of the 80s, when fashion still felt the effect of its rejection by the punk subculture and became less personal. I went completely against the flow. I presented

myself in a brand new way, giving Elisa Cavaletti its very own stamp, which explained my story and my life philosophy,” recalls Dallavalle, who says about herself that she is the product “of two cultures”, with a Northern European mother and an Italian father, both of which influence her style and, ultimately, Elisa Cavaletti’s signature.

But more so than anything else, Dallavalle’s heart beats for her native Italy and, despite many international influences, she sees the brand as an Italian collection. “I created the looks for Elisa by imagining my daughter when she’s grown up – free, independent, loving life and open to friendship with all kinds of people because she’s interested in what’s inside them and not what they look like,” says Dallavalle, who comes across as a sensitive, philosophical lady who is led first and foremost by intuition rather than dominated by external trends or movements. “I like to observe and collect experiences and dream, then write down everything that inspires me in one of the notebooks I always carry with me,” she says. “I have so many, scattered everywhere – in my bag, on my nightstand and on my desk. Everything starts there. When it’s time to create a new collection, I flip through those notes and relive the experiences,

41 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JANUARY 2014

PROFILE —

Daniela Dallavalle

“British people like my sense of freedom and realise that I offer something new and different. Elisa Cavaletti can be paired with any brand and any style, from romantic to minimalist or couture” trying to convey them in every piece you create.”

It’s maybe this intuitive relationship to design that has given Elisa Cavaletti its edge and what defines the popularity of the label, which has a loyal following among women of all ages, thanks to its complete looks that can be mixed and matched and worn as individually as the collection is itself. Unsurprisingly, Dallavalle doesn’t have a specific target customer in mind when designing. “If you’re talking about physical appearance, I have no typical or ideal customer but, if you’re talking about feelings, that’s different,” she says. “When I create the collection, I think of people as an outward reflection of their soul, I think of moving them with my product and try to empathise with them. That’s my secret, and I can’t say it’s ever changed. Over the years, I’ve become a more complete person – my thoughts have matured and this has clearly transformed my creations.”

Elisa Cavaletti’s international success has not just seen the brand expand across Russia, Northern Europe, Canada and Australia, where the brand is popular, but it’s also gaining momentum in the UK, where it has been represented by agent Joy Redfern since 2010, when it made its market debut. The brand currently has 80 selected accounts and is a regular at Moda Woman, where it is one of the busiest stands at the show each season and set to return once again for next month’s edition. “I think British people appreciate the fact that I don’t follow the rules of fashion,” says Dallavalle. “They like my sense of freedom and realise that I offer something new and different. Elisa Cavaletti can be paired with any brand and any style, from romantic to minimalist or couture.”

This is mirrored by agent Joy Redfern, who says the brand has been an instant success in the UK, with most of her customers having stocked the label from the start. “The one word that is most often used by buyers in describing Elisa Cavaletti is ‘exciting’,” she says. “We must have heard it hundreds of times over the past four years. Everyone loves the collection, and its popularity is due mainly to its uniqueness, its quality, the handmade buttons, the colour palette and of course its

total look – with handmade jewellery and the many accessories and footwear. Elisa Cavaletti is a genuinely 100 per cent Made in Italy product, and that also forms part of the appeal.”

Redfern would like to expand the account base, and has her eye on around 100 high-quality accounts, prioritising areas where there is currently no representation. It’s clearly about quality distribution than quantity, with Redfern careful about finding suitable stockists that can grow with the label. “Elisa Cavaletti has a unique look, so it sits happily alongside a variety of quality brands,” she says. “Our primary requisite is to have representation in good independent retailers that carry nice brands, and we make our decisions based around this primarily.”

For Dallavalle, Elisa Cavaletti may be the flagship brand of the Greda-Daniela Dallavalle-Arte Pura Group, Elisa Cavaletti’s parent company, and the one she is clearly extremely passionate about, but she has a multitude of other projects on the go, too, which she is hoping to expand internationally with equal success to the main label.

Firstly, there is Riccardo Cavaletti, the company’s recently created line of menswear and accessories, translating the Elisa Cavaletti philosophy into a male context. Then, there’s Arte Pura, a homeware line featuring everything from tablecloths and napkins to bed covers, pillow cases, towels and candles. Dress Your Space, meanwhile, is a furnishing line, with each piece delivered pre-assembled and on castors, encouraging them to be moved and rearranged as suited, with the designs made to take centre-stage in the middle of each room as opposed to against walls. Finally, there’s Artistic Element, a delicatessen range of wines, balsamic vinegars, oils and grappa reflecting Italian culture.

Undeniably, this is the pursuit of a true lifestyle offering that demonstrates the ambitious agenda of the designer, and ultimately goes full circle with Dallavalle’s artistic and emotive philosophy. And, while Dallavalle says she is opening “a new chapter” with her next collection, it seems there are many more chapters to follow.

Group



Size range: 8-30 GODSKE KIRSTEN KROG DESIGN JORLI HABELLA ROBELL FRANDSEN OUTERWEAR TIA I’CONA Q NEEL QUÉ REFA THAT’S ME BY JAGRO — PRE COLLECTIONS — London Showroom 6 January - 31 January 2014 Dublin Showroom 6 January - 31 January 2014 MAIN COLLECTIONS — Gallery Dusseldorf 30 January - 4 February 2014 Fashion House 1 - 2nd Floor Room 247 - 251 CIFF Copenhagen 30 January - 2 February 2014 Bella Centre stand B3 - 241 London Showroom also open Sunday 9th Feb 2014 Weekend of Pure.

Moda Woman 16 February - 18 February 2014 NEC Birmingham, Hall 18 - stand I 14 Dubin Showroom Fashion City from Wednesday 19 February 2014, with a Special Event on Sunday 23 February to Tuesday 25 February 2104.

— LONDON SHOWROOM Godske Group UK. Showroom: 65 Margaret Street, London W1W 8SP Tel: 0207 636 3063 Fax: 0207 636 3863 Email: pug@godske.com DUBLIN SHOWROOM Godske Group Ireland, Unit 5, Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24 Tel: 00353 1 4295042 Fax: 00353 1 4295043

45 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JANUARY 2014

BRAND GUIDE —

SEASON’S PREVIEW AUTUMN/WINTER 2014 COLLECTION NEWS THE KEY BRANDS AND NEW LAUNCHES OF THE SEASON NEW MODERNITY THE EXPERTS AT TRENDSTOP PROVIDE AN EXCLUSIVE LOOK AT THE KEY INFLUENCES ON THE SEASON FASHION FOCUS WWB'S BRAND-BY-BRAND GUIDE TO A/W 14 CHESSBOARD THEORY DIRECTIONAL FASHION GOES BLACK AND WHITE >>>

46 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JANUARY 2014

TRENDS —

NEW MODERNITY Trend agency Trendstop.com focuses on early consumer analysis, helping you to add trend confidence to your buying decisions. For autumn/winter 2014-15, it presents WWB readers with an exclusive look at the key trend, New Modernity.

The trend sees fashion go back to basics for an effortless yet elegant chic, inspired by the minimalist aesthetic of Céline.

Contemporary autumn/winter 2014 styles are pared back to their essential forms to create styles that appeal with clean lines, streamlined shapes and a simple purity.

—

APPAREL: MINIMAL SHIFT Shifts are stripped back to minimal silhouettes, creating elegant day dresses. Greyscale and monochrome tones as well as textures such as wool, jersey and wovens are key. Structured shapes and clean lines underline the contemporary mood.

—

COLOUR: OPAL GRAY This cool purple-tinted grey infuses apparel and accessories with a subtle sophistication this season, creating an effective reverse accent next to darker shades. The perfect colour to complement soft jersey and wool, leather textures also look refined, as seen throughout flat Stella McCartney clutches and polished Lacoste footwear.

—

Stella McCartney

Proenza

Louise Goldin

Lacoste

Theyskens

Celine

ACCESSORIES: HARD LINES BAGS

Jasper Conran

Emporio Armani Costume National

Geometric lines construct contemporary effects across autumn/winter bag styles.

Frames and handles appear in gleaming metal lines, shaping angular, clean-edged Damir silhouettes for an urbane city appeal. The trend is versatile across a range of designs, from shoulder bags to clutches. While monochrome colourways look refined, high-end designers such as Emporio Armani and Jasper Conran work with other shades including frosted blue or bold red.

—

47 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JANUARY 2014

TRENDS —

Céline

Veronique Branquinho

MATERIAL: BLANKET TEXTURES Cosy yet chic, this trend shapes womenswear in materials such as brushed wool, cashmere and mohair, often complete with blanket-stitched edgings for a relaxed feel. Ideal to wrap up with on frosty days, designers including Céline and Agnès B work textures into thick, longline outerwear, which is on show in colours ranging from natural neutrals to bolder pops of bottle green or buttercup.

—

Agnès B Unique

APPAREL: COCOON COAT CHIC Plain and simple, this season’s must-have cocoon coat encases the body with rounded shoulders and protective shapes. Silhouettes work well with refined neutral colours such as cream and caramel, though inky midnight shades lend sophistication for evening. Soft wool textures ensure a cosy insulation against the elements.

—

Mugler

Cheap Monday

FOOTWEAR: MODERN SIMPLICITY SHOE Gucci

Mugler

Women’s footwear is revamped with modern design approaches, fusing conventional looks with contemporary constructions to create a new range of 21st-century staples. Simple designs take on a luxe finish, as feminine shapes catch the eye with moulded shapes, blocky heels and novel takes on proportion.

— Andrea Incontri

Blumarine

Céline

Derek Lam

Trendstop works with leading retailers to ensure key trends are translated appropriately for the target audience. Register your interest at www.trendstop.com, or download the Trendstop TrendTracker app from your app store.

>>>

48 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JANUARY 2014

BRANDS —

COLLECTION NEWS THE BRANDS AND NEW LAUNCHES TO WATCH FOR A/W 14.

KIRSTEN STRENGTHENS OUTDOOR OFFER German womenswear brand Kirsten has expanded its outdoor offer significantly for a/w 14 following the continued success of the range. In particular, the brand has strengthened its modern and fashion-led product segment, with a focus on indoor jackets and blazers. The outdoor collection now comprises 150 pieces compared to 100 in previous seasons, while the indoor segment has been expanded to 75 pieces, from 50. According to a spokesperson for the brand, a stronger focus on fashionability and trends has been introduced in response to market demand.

Wool blends, as well as innovative and techno fabrics feature heavily in the a/w 14 collection.

—

MIROGLIO GROUP APPOINTS BLD BLD International Fashion Agency has been appointed as new sales representative for the Italian group’s brands Caractère and Elena Miro, covering the UK and Ireland.

Both brands will be relaunched for a/w 14, with Caractère seeing the introduction of a new contemporary elegance after a new design team has been brought on-board. The brand is also launching a younger line, Tèr de Caractère, which is playful and trend-driven and offers a more relaxed and sportier alternative to the main line, with an emphasis on knitwear.

Plus-size specialist Elena Miro, meanwhile, is launching White Elena Miro, a luxurious and feminine collection, as well as For Me Elena Miro, a contemporary range that bridges the gap between curvy and regular sizes.

—

COVERED MAKES MARKET RELAUNCH Dutch outdoor brand Covered makes a UK return for a/w 14, following an absence of more than two years. The brand, which was part of the Bandolera stable before it went into liquidation last year, has been revived by Jan Stam, former agent of the brand, who bought the trademark and is now relaunching the label internationally.

The brand continues its focus on competitive prices and exclusive styling, with a collection of 50 pieces featuring down feather coats and woollen versions, many with lace appliqué, knitted detailing or striking hood collars. Retail prices are €199-€499. The brand is represented in the UK by Cocomo Fashion agency, which also represents the relaunched Bandolera.

—

FROM SOMEWHERE TAKES ON XO London fashion agency From Somewhere has taken on Danish brand XO for a/w 14. The brand, which is short for Xtra Ordinary, is making its first foray into the UK market, offering a fashion-led loungewear range. The brand’s style DNA is based on its Scandinavian roots, with a simple, clean and casual direction, and a focus on soft materials that are comfortable to wear. The brand is part of fashion house Container, which is represented across Europe, with the UK now a key focus for expansion.

—

PARKERS RELAUNCHES ECLAT London fashion agency Parkers is relaunching Italian label Eclat to the UK following the retirement of the previous UK agent. The brand offers a medium priced contemporary range which targets fashion-forward women.

NEW BRAND FOR CAROL C COLLECTIONS French brand S’Quise has joined fashion agency Carol C Collections for a/w 14. The brand offers a commercial range in sizes 10-24, with forward and short order available.

Carol C Collections is also celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, and invites customers to join the celebrations with a glass of bubbly at next month’s Moda (stand G10).

ISCHIKO JOINS OSKA STABLE German designer brand Ischiko has been bought by fellow fashion house Oska. According to a spokesperson, Ischiko complements the Oska portfolio and will help the company attract an expanded customer base. The brand will offer two collections a year of around 40 pieces, continuing to follow clear-cut silhouettes and a soft, feminine direction.

ASSOCIATED FASHION AGENCIES ADDS BRANDS Associated Fashion Agencies has added a host of new labels to its stable for a/w 14. German brand Damo, Greek label Badoo, Spanish brand Madeline and French label 3322 have all joined the portfolio, covering a diversity of styles and price points. >>>

A U T U M N

W I N T E R

2 0 1 4

Showing AW14 from January 27 to March 10 at: Pure Olympia: London showroom:

9-11 th Feb | stand N50

For appointments, Pls call Anne or Cristina

Tel +44 (0) 207 402 5292 | anne@anneodowd.com

PURE 9th - 11th February 2014 Stand N34 INDX 12th - 13th February 2014 MODA WOMAN 16th - 18th February 2014 Stand F10 MANCHESTER SHOWROOM 3rd February - 7th February 2014 LONDON SHOWROOM 24th February - 7th March 2014 DUBLIN SHOWROOM 10th March - 14th March Email: jeremy@cates.co.uk Web: www.twodanes.dk/retail

52 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JANUARY 2014

BRAND GUIDE —

THE LOOK:

TARTAN ARMY

LUISA CERANO Luisa Cerano references all the main trends this season, with tartan prints also among the dominating themes. The looks are relaxed and yet elegant, with black, greys and occasional prints and splashes of colour key.

—

CINQUE

Tartan and tartan-inspired prints have trickled down from directional into mainstream fashion this season, providing a stylish and fresh take on a/w chic. Whether it’s the classic tartan skirt or pant, or more contemporary interpretations such as abstract graphics, the black and red combo works well teamed with black and greys for a sophisticated Highlands meets grunge look.

—

MAXIMA A mix of edgy and luxurious, rock and grunge runs through the collection at Maxima. It’s a smart modernity with a cool and clean look.

Oversized tops and cardigans are teamed with slim leather pants, while statement sweaters and pencil skirts are also among the predicted bestsellers.

—

53 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JANUARY 2014

BRAND GUIDE —

PASSPORT Passport continues with an opulent theme this winter, using a mixture of rich fabrics such as jacquards, boucles and velvets, as well as metallic treated materials. Tartan features heavily, as do checks and houndstooth, which are having a comeback. Look out for animal prints and graphic patterns, which have been given a punky and grungy treatment.

—

RENE LEZARD Rene Lezard remains true to its signature style, super luxe but laid back. From oversized cocoon coats through tuxedo suiting to lace tops and print-on-print pants, the collection is all about statement pieces. A take on tartan prints also takes centre stage and gives a grungy direction to the range.

—

ALICE AND BARNABE Quirky French separates come from Alice and Barnabe, which offers distinctive styles full of unusual detailing. Wearable dresses and separates are key, with this season’s colour palette centred around cobalt blue, bright orange, black and cream patterns, as well as taupe, black and gold.

— ANA NONZA Loose-fitting silhouettes for easy dressing and a relaxed style describe the collection at Ana Nonza. The collection is colourful and quirky, mixing prints with plains for a striking effect. Dresses and coordinating styles are the main offering of the brand.

—

ATELIER GARDEUR The slim five-pocket drainpipes in new tartan create a rock chick Brit style and are among the key trends at Atelier Gardeur. They sit alongside quirky check pants and denim styles in distressed effects, creating a juxtaposition to otherwise clean looks. Rich dark colours dominate, including black, oxblood, emerald green and brown.

—

G DESIGN Checks in all variations feature at G Design, whether Glen checks or tartans, mixed with leather and suede patches and zipper and rivet details for a Brit Punk look. Silhouettes remain focused on ankle lengths, skinnies and cool biker looks, contrasted against casual jogging styles.

—

BANDOLERA Detailing and colour take centre stage at Bandolera this season, with a colour palette that concentrates on combinations such as bright blue against black, black and white, and black and red. From urban chic to biker and rock chick looks, the collection is versatile, referencing all the key trends of the season.

—

>>>

54 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JANUARY 2014

BRAND GUIDE —

THE LOOK:

BACK TO BLACK

CREENSTONE Creenstone is focusing on extending its luxury offer this season, with the addition of more fur trimmed parkas and glamorous city styles. The colour palette is dominated by dark hues of black, grey and a splash of minimal colour.

—

FABER

Black is a classic for any winter season, but for a/w 14 it’s getting the deluxe treatment, with a head-to-toe look that is dominated by textures, surface interest and layering. Juxtaposing chunky knits against slick leather trousers, or oversized coats and coatigans with slim silhouettes are key, as are tonal patterns offset against contrasting graphics.

—

ECLA Ecla is fully on trend this season with its clash of textures and directional looks. Contrasts of textures dominate, with key looks including head-to-toe blacks, working fine knits against the tough image of leather leggings and edgy biker boots.

—

55 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JANUARY 2014

BRAND GUIDE —

MONARI Decorative knitwear is the focus of Monari, with this season’s designs all about statement pieces. Key looks include a short, boxy sweater with side zippers and bird motif in studs, layered over a cold dyed top and teamed with tight, printed jeans.

—

ANNETTE GOERTZ The collection offers a dark, moody and luxurious direction, with textured coats and architectural tailoring key. Superfine knits play with form and convention, but remain commercial and saleable nonetheless.

—

BETTY BARCLAY Smartness meets femininity and elegance at Betty Barclay this season, with skirts the new key pieces that are combined with knit pullovers and cardigans. Comfortable jersey dresses also feature, while biker jackets and jersey tops complement the range.

— CAMEL ACTIVE The new womenswear collection focuses on traditional and modern influences, with styles, cuts, materials and treatments staying in line with the brand’s quality mantra.

Shorter bomber jackets and longer parkas are among the key pieces.

—

SANDWICH Sandwich’s design team has been inspired by frozen landscapes for a/w 14, with prints of icy landscapes key. Materials are heavy and come in various structures, featuring special techniques such as laser print. The colour palette is muted, with greys, black and moss green key.

—

STEILMANN Steilmann is all about material mixes this season, staying within muted colour palettes such as black on black. Boiled wool is combined with soft, wadded polyester in a leather look. Digital prints also feature heavily, and can be found across jackets and coats as eye-catching detailing.

—

CREA CONCEPT Look out for soft, quirky and easy dressing at Crea Concept this season. Knitwear is among the predicted bestsellers, as are bubblehem dresses, innovatively styled trousers and skirts combined with chunky knits. The brand is also introducing a capsule range of active and loungewear this season.

—

>>>

56 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JANUARY 2014

BRAND GUIDE —

THE LOOK:

RED ALERT

CLOSED A sporty urban theme runs through the collection for a/w 14; oversized cuts are combined with tighter fits, while loose tops and bottoms make for a casual cool direction. Biker elements such as zips, inserts and stitching can be found across jackets, dresses, trousers and blouses.

—

BITTE KAI RAND

Red sees a comeback this season and is the perfect colour injection to black.

Used as colour blocks, it has the strongest effect, however, a more subtle look can also be achieved by simply accessorising an otherwise neutral look with a splash of accent in the shape of accessories.

—

ZERRES A colour splash comes in the shape of chic blazers at Zerres this season, while woolen trousers also take centre stage, with houndstooth, shepherd’s check, glencheck and classic checks key. Slim silhouettes dominate, but 7/8th lengths also feature. The brand’s figure-shaping Sensational Jeans are also making a return.

—

57 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JANUARY 2014

BRAND GUIDE —

EUGEN KLEIN Eugen Klein once again offers a completely coordinated collection of daywear, smart suiting, statement solo pieces and outerwear, with day to evening outfits key. A new skirt collection, Red by Eugen Klein, is being launched this season, offering skirts in lengths from 64cm to 82cm.

— LAUREL Rock chic is at the core of Laurel’s collection, which features bold pairings and rich contrasts.

Leather, studs, decorative zips, heavy boots and chunky knits are the key ingredients to create the key looks, with many styles sporting a “lived in”, vintage signature.

—

DOUBLE TWO From Double Two comes a range of blouses and shirts, with detailing, floral prints and a rage of flattering fits key. From formal work blouses to casual weekend wear, the brand offers a wide range of designs and colours.

— GUIDO LOMBARDI A beige story dominates at Italian knitwear specialist Guido Lombardi. Elegant and feminine sweaters, cardigans and pullovers feature throughout the collection, with capes and loose, relaxed shapes also among the highlights.

—

VERPASS Knitwear, leather, oversized coats and skirts are among the predicted bestsellers at Verpass.

Embellishments on knitwear are central design features, while biker looks are among the key trends to be referenced in the collection.

—

MADELINE Spanish brand Madeline is making its UK debut this season with a feminine collection that is youthful and modern. The range consists of T-shirts, dresses and jackets, with black and red among the key shades.

—

HABELLA Habella offers feminine and semi-sportive coordinates, with jersey among the central ingredients in the range. Long jackets with slim trousers, short jersey jackets coordinated with pencil skirts and dresses with patchwork detailing are among the highlights.

—

>>>

60 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JANUARY 2014

BRAND GUIDE —

THE LOOK:

CLEAN LUXURY

B.YU Cashmere mixes, tweeds and chevron prints with Lurex and diamanté take centre stage at B.Yu. Winter white is among the key colours, sitting alongside rose pink, pearl, pinky red, Bordeaux and navy.

—

HAUBER

Providing a welcome contrast to the black and sombre colour palette that is around, creams and whites come into their own and offer an altogether softer and feminine look. The head-to-toe rule still applies, but interest is achieved by also combining different textures and materials, whilst throwing in some eye-catching metallic for good measure. It’s clean sophistication deluxe.

—

KIRSTEN Feminine city wool coats, sporty jackets, blazers and rainwear are the signature look at Kirsten.

Among this season’s predicted bestsellers are quilted, knee-length wool coats, short double-breasted jackets with hoods, fake down reversible coats and mix-and-match fleece cardigans.

—

61 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JANUARY 2014

BRAND GUIDE —

ELENA MIRO Sophisticated luxury is the motto at Elena Miro this season. Soft creams, white and off-whites are contrasted against black, browns and monochromes, while silhouettes remain ultra feminine and flattering.

—

PURE BY LUCIA Dominating looks at Pure by Lucia are centred around combinations of clean neutrals with eye-catching metallics. Embellished prints offer distinctive detailing, while silhouettes remain feminine but soft to create a relaxed sense of elegance.

—

JAMES LAKELAND There are three main style directions at James Lakeland this season. Stand-out coats in block colours and digital prints are among the central pieces, while reversible soft slouchy knits are teamed with heavy stretch superfit trousers. Finally, a jersey, big zip, ponti sleeveless waistcoat is among the hero pieces in the collection.

— JORLI On-trend dresses, tunics, chunky knits and slim-fit trousers are among the highlights at Jorli this season. Aubergines, pinks and mustards make up the colour palette, while soft greys and black are also a key staple.

—

LATTE Latte has embraced the Renaissance trend for a/w 14, playing with yarns, textures and prints that are rich and embellished. Statement vintage tunic tops are among the predicted bestsellers, with winter accessories such as beanie hats, scarves and jewellery a new addition to the range this season.

—

MARC AUREL The dominating trend at Marc Aurel is Glam Grunge, a mix of distressed-effect garments and punk influences, but combined with luxurious materials. The brand’s golden biker jacket is among the key pieces and is complemented with an off-white, fake fur gilet for ultimate effortlessness.

—

KIRSTEN KROG Bold colours and eye-catching prints define the collection at Kirsten Krog. The colour palette is made up of poppy red, azure blue, violet, oyster and black, while styles will take the wearer from smart daywear to party and occasion dressing.

—

>>>

62 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JANUARY 2014

BRAND GUIDE —

THE LOOK:

SHADES OF GREY

CHARLI Soft clean lines and interesting finishes describe the direction at Charli, which once again has a strong focus on knitwear and easy-to-wear jersey pieces. The brand specialises in luxury basics, with muted tones key this season.

—

MARC CAIN

Completing the seasonal colour palette for autumn/winter 2014 is grey, which comes in many guises and promises to be one of the most versatile shades. Whether worn with black, lighter or darker shades, teamed with gentle pastels or contrasted with bold prints, grey is chic and feminine, without being quite as harsh as the ubiquitous black.

—

CARLA GOLI Printed dresses are among the predicted bestsellers at Carla Goli. Key trends include soft dresses with matching jackets and coats, with jewel colours, black, grey and camel making up the dominating colour palette.

—

63 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JANUARY 2014

ADINI Timeless Parisian style was the main inspiration for Adini’s collection this season. Chunky knits and cocoon coats feature heavily, as do luxury knits. Decadent florals, smart mini prints and block panels are among the style elements.

—

BRAND GUIDE —

LECOMTE Layering is key at Lecomte, with relaxed silhouettes that are easy to wear and easy to mix and match. Oversized cardigans with feature collars are among the highlights, while the colour palette is dominated by subtle neutrals, with head-to-toe grey among the central themes.

—

NICE CONNECTION Knitwear focusing on wool/cashmere mixes is central to Nice Connection. This season, the brand favours a neutral colour palette, with beige, camel, silver, grey and soft pink among the dominating shades. Look out for twin sets in prints and plain versions, which are among the highlights.

— PICADILLY Look out for stripes, animal prints and abstract graphics making trendy statements at Picadilly for a/w 14. Dresses and coordinating tops are among the key styles, while colour stories are rich and warm, including reds, navy, emerald, burnt orange and marigold .

—

GELCO Black is the base colour at Gelco this season, along with subtle and neutral hues of grey and taupe, which form the basis for a versatile collection of trousers, dresses, skirts, blazers, blouses and knitwear. Faux leathers and coated suede effects are used as clever detailing, while fake Tibetan lamb and natural lambskin also feature.

—

MICHELE Innovative techno fabrics are at the core this season, combining comfort with function. Jersey fabrics add to the fashion level, with activewear-inspired technical surfaces and Neoprene becoming key materials. Body hugging silhouettes prevail, while shorter length styles are also popular and the ideal partner to be teamed with ankle boots.

—

TONI The new collection follows the theme of “mystic glam rock”, bringing together decorative elements such as studs, zips, chains and leather appliques. Alongside the denim range of washes and dyes, the colour concept stays muted and focused on darker shades, while surface interest is created through lasered finishes, used looks, and overdyed and distressed effects.

—

THE GALLERY, DUSSELDORF Jan 31 - Feb 3 | Stand 3.16 PURE, LONDON Feb 9 - 11 | Stand N72 INDX, BIRMINGHAM Feb 12 - 13

Designer collections for the style-conscious, free-spirited woman in real sizes.

MODA, BIRMINGHAM Feb 16 - 18 | Stand E14 SHOWROOM 40 Chiltern Street, London W1U 7QN February 4 – March 6 T: 020 7483 8438 E: wholesale@saharalondon.com

www.saharalondon.com

A/W 2014 48 MORTIMER STREET LONDON W1W 7RN SALES@YUMI.UK.COM

Chessboard theory DIRECTIONAL WOMENSWEAR IS BOLD AND MONOCHROME FOR A/W 14, WITH BLACK AND WHITE PROVIDING AN EDGY AND CONTEMPORARY TWIST ON A FASHION CLASSIC. —

Dress: Prey of London, £45.79, 020 7488 1380 Shoes: Zaha Hadid for United Nude, price on request, 020 7940 1700 Flower necklace: Stylist’s own Tights: Stylist’s own

Left to right: Coat: Parka London, £100, 020 7424 6889 Dress: Neon Rose, £30, 0161 235 5289 Knot necklace: Gaby’s, £10, 01985 211926 Tights: Stylist’s own — Dress: Cameo, £45, 020 7349 8887 Bag: Dents, £12, 01985 211921 Cuff: Ingenious Jewellery, price on request, 020 8445 6234 Shoes and tights: Stylist’s own

Long jacket and shorts: Selected Femme, £25 and £16.66, 020 7650 2016 Bib necklace: Sam Ubhi, price on request, 020 8767 5533 Tights and boots: Stylist’s own

Dress: Ruby Rocks, £26, 07973 718301 Long blazer: Selected Femme, £34.48, 020 7650 2016 Boots and tights: Stylist’s own

Leather biker jacket and quilted shorts: Of the Realm, £156 and £68, 0161 829 0751 V-neck blouse: Charli, £46, 020 8440 1321 Necklace: Stylist’s own Boots and tights: Stylist’s own

Left to right: Dress: Neon Rose, £30, 0161 235 5289 Fur gilet: Jay Ley Collection, price on request, 01782 658947 Bow headband: Stylist’s own Tights: Stylist’s own — Blouse and skirt: Cameo, £32 and £37, 020 7349 8887 Stole: Dents, £13, 01985 211921 Brooch: Stylist’s own Tights and boots: Stylist’s own — Blouse: Selected Femme, £11.66, 020 7650 2016 Skirt: Of the Realm, £95, 0161 829 0751 Cuff: Ingenious Jewellery, price on request, 020 8445 6234 Tights: Stylist’s own

Dress: Sugarhill Boutique, £17.50, 01273 911393 Jacket: Prey of London, £61.05, 020 7488 1380 Necklace: Stylist’s own Boots and tights: Stylist’s own

Jumper: Neon Rose, £28, 0161 235 5289 Silk print trousers: Sugarhill Boutique, £13.90, 01273 911393 Necklace: Stylist’s own Socks and trainers: Stylist’s own

Peplum top: Of the Realm, £90, 0161 829 0751 Pencil skirt: Charli, £46, 020 8440 1321 Gloves: Dents, £28, 01985 211921

Dress: Ruby Rocks, price on request, 07973 718301 Pearl bubble necklace: Gaby’s, £15, 01985 211926 Brooch: Stylist’s own Hat: Stylist’s own

Photographs: Darren Black, www.darrenblackphotography.com Model: Becky, Oxygen Models, www.oxygenmodels.com Styling: Fran Lee, Production Element, www.productionelement.com Hair and make-up: Charlotte Yeomans, www.charlotteyeomans.com

Dress: Stella Nova, £28, 020 3302 8867 Cuff: Sam Ubhi, £220, 020 8767 5533 Tights and boots: Stylist’s own Unless otherwise stated, all prices are wholesale

Garments that won’t hang about.

The steamer that will.

For more information Tel: 020 8417 0660

www.propress.co.uk

 THE MODA PARTY MONDAY 17 FEBRUARY 2014 RECEPTION DRINKS FROM 7PM DELICIOUS PUB GRUB | LIVE MUSIC

£20 PER PERSON, INCLUSIVE OF VAT

Book your tickets now caroline@moda-uk.co.uk 01484 846069

TICKET ONLY EVENT. NUMBERS ARE LIMITED AND WILL SELL OUT! The Punchbowl, Mill Lane, Lapworth, B94 6HR

86 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JANUARY 2014

PREVIEW —

SCOOP Last season Scoop international debuted its second venue, Philips at Howick Place, almost doubling its exhibition space. For a/w 14 the show is once again returning to the venue, showcasing even more exclusive names across ready- to- wear, accessories and footwear.

—

Parajumpers

Loulu Et Tu

Rachel Antonio

Mury

Day Birger et Mikkelsen

Emma Louise London

Entering its seventh season, Scoop International has become the trade show for contemporary and emerging directional designers by showcasing a host of exciting brands and labels alongside cutting edge modern paintings, sculpture and installation, creating a unique synergy between fashion and art. Last season the show nearly doubled in size, having expanded into an additional venue, Phillips, at Howick Place, near Victoria and, for a/w 14, the show once again returns to both its sites.

True to the visionary ethos of Scoop, Phillips will feature a unique showcase comprising aroma as art, showcasing installation pieces that epitomise one of a collection of sublime artisan perfumes curated by Intertrade Europe, Celso Fadelli’s global art perfumery pioneers. They sit among a fashion-forward and contemporary mix of designer collections, including Lithuanian label Loulu Et Tu, which offers a mix of classic everyday workwear and eveningwear pieces that are both statement and refined. The brand philosophy is based on a European design aesthetic, with a focus on quality staple pieces of classical silhouettes and colour-blocking to add a fresh look to the sophisticated modern-day woman’s wardrobe.

Zoë Carol at the vanguard of Irish labels, showcases her latest womenswear collection with sharp tailoring and minimalistic design, while Rachel Antonio provides relaxed elegance with strong but understated style. Danish label Day

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PREVIEW —

• Scoop International takes place on 19-21 February at Phillips, Howick Place, and Saatchi Gallery, Chelsea • Buyers can register online for complimentary tickets at scoop-international.com • There is a complimentary shuttle service between the two venues available throughout the three days of the event

Penelope Chilvers

Kat & Bee

Coye Nokes

Kudibal

Zoe Carol

Virginie Castaway

Birger et Mikkelsen is making a welcome return to the show, presenting a collection that has been inspired by a journey from East to West but always with its signature laid-back chic. Fellow Danish label Kudibal is making its Scoop debut, with a collection based on stretch silk satin, wool and cashmere.

New handbag label Mury specialises in printed canvas especially developed in Italy and coated with PVC before being screen-printed and texture-finished, making for unique stand-out items. Jewellery label Kat & Bee is also all about statement pieces, with quirky and oversized styles key, combining a wealth of material mixes. Over at Virginie Castaway, the collection combines relaxed chic, with jerseys, soft wool and cashmere pieces key and fur details and sequins adding an extra dose of glamour. Meanwhile, Italian brand Parajumpers specialises in extremely innovative outerwear with highly technological components designed, above all else, to be functional.

Elsewhere, Brit brand Penelope Chilvers combines contemporary, fashion led design with enduring style and traditional craftsmanship, producing timeless, made-to-last pieces that work seamlessly with each season’s trends, while US footwear brand Coye Nokes makes its first appearance at the show with a range of high-quality footwear, ranging from chunky mid-heels to low-wedge boots to chic ankle boots and modern classics.

88 WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk — JANUARY 2014

PROMOTION —

THE ESSENTIAL RESOURCE FOR THE WOMENSWEAR INDUSTRY. —

wwb-online.co. online.co.uk online.co. o.uk Wwb-online.co.uk is the essential free business tool, bringing you industry advice, up-to-the-minute news, insightful features and trend information at the click of a button.

From the team behind WWB magazine, the website covers every aspect of the womenswear industry. Frequently updated news across a broad range of topics will help you keep your finger on the pulse, while a variety of unique content that complements WWB’s comprehensive industry and style reports brings you rounded, in-depth knowledge and information.

Brand spotlights, short-order specials and trend overviews are just some of the must-read features, all of which will aid your buying decisions and help enhance your in-store offer.

The Retail section provides further vital inspiration, covering everything from visual merchandising ideas to advice and suggestions from the brains behind some of the UK’s most successful independents. Articles in the People section focus on the movers and shakers across womenswear, to give you the inside track on what makes them tick and how they stay ahead of the game.

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MAKE WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK YOUR DAILY SOURCE OF ESSENTIAL FASHION INDUSTRY INFORMATION – IT’S ONLY A CLICK AWAY. — To advertise on wwb-online.co.uk call Sam on 01484 846069 or email sam@ras-publishing.com

NEWS Industry news that’s relevant to you, from new launches to trading predictions and business reports.

— RETAIL Want to explore multi-channelling in order to drive sales, learn more about the latest market research or gain inspiration for visual merchandising? You’ll find it all here – and it could prove highly profitable.

— BRANDS Useful profiles of familiar favourites and up-and-coming brands alike, along with broader features on their evolution, strategy and direction.

— OPINION Read what the experts think about current and ongoing issues affecting the industry – their insights could prove invaluable to your business.

— FEATURES Reports, interviews and brand profiles on the issues, industry figures and companies everyone wants to know about.

— EVENTS As well as previews and reviews, wwb-online.co.uk will keep you informed about the essential dates for your diary.

— BLOG WWB’s bloggers are passionate about the fashion industry and always have something interesting to say. Find out what’s getting them talking.

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FIRST LOOK AT MODA Moda is back for a/w 14, taking place on 16-18 February at the NEC Birmingham, with another strong line-up of contemporary labels across ready-to-wear, footwear and accessories. WWB takes a look at some of the brands at the show.

— FRANK SAUL Frank Saul returns to Moda with a comprehensive collection of knitwear, from delicately beaded, lightweight knits and stretch jersey tops in soft earthy tones to knitted jackets, cardigans and wraps in soft boucle yarns and marl twist with luxury, soft metallic jacquards. The collection also features cotton shine and angora mix, with sequin and bead detail, and easy, flowing knitted tops, in a palette of berry tones, from rich plum to velvety burgundy, and cobalt blues through to denim shades, as well as stark black and white.

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BRAX Making its Moda debut with its womenswear (the brand is a regular in Moda Gent), Brax is inspired by Great Britain for a/w 14, with the theme translated into checks, flowers and stud elements for a royal punk theme. Highlights include tartan blouses with leather piping and floral trimmings, voluminous knits in a variety of shapes and lengths, and a down jacket in a digital fur-effect print. The palette encompasses wintery greens, intense blues and deep reds alongside beige, grey and black, with accents of warm sherry, chestnut and gold.

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RINO & PELLE Dutch brand Rino & Pelle makes its Moda debut this season with a collection of outerwear classics reinvented with a modern twist, mixing different textiles and materials with both iconic pieces and new styles. Expect updated leather pilot and biker jackets alongside new statement pieces such as furry, printed peacoats and mixed yarn parkas with contrasting elements.

— TULCHAN The a/w 14 collection from Tulchan features a number of limited-edition styles, in celebration of the brand’s 30th anniversary. Highlights include bespoke prints applied to knitwear, outerwear and accessories, with the robin motif jumper and matching scarf the must-see piece.

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PREVIEW —

SAINT JAMES French brand Saint James, established in Normandy in 1850 and known for its quality maritime-oriented knitwear, makes its debut at Moda this season with a full collection of womenswear, including dresses, jackets, trousers and blouses alongside its traditional jumpers and T-shirts in nautical stripes.

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IRELANDS EYE The contemporary Dublin knitwear label has expanded its collection this season to include finer gauge wool cashmere pieces alongside its plush cabled chunky wool cashmere sweaters and cardigans, for trans-seasonal pieces that can be worn from winter through spring. A new cotton and linen range takes the look right through to summer, with cabled sweaters and cardigans in muted tones offering relaxed luxury for the warmer months.

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NOMADS

JAMES LAKELAND Energy, excitement and passion characterise James Lakeland’s a/w 14 collection, highlights of which include stand-out coats in block colours and digital prints, reversible soft, slouchy knits, teamed with heavy stretch trousers, stretch tunic dresses and a jersey ponti sleeveless waistcoat. Soft pink, combined with lace, embroidery, great cuts and texture, create a modern edge for the woman who is confident in her femininity.

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Fairtrade label Nomads’ a/w 14 collection is divided into three themes. The Silk Route takes its inspiration from the textiles of India, China and Japan, featuring embroidered lotus flowers and appliqué butterflies in soft hues of ivory and duck egg. The Curator was inspired by the luxurious fabrics and silhouettes of days gone by, with tapestry florals, rich velvets and decorative jacquards key. World Traveller, meanwhile, takes its influence from the brand’s archive of fabrics, and sees ikat designs and peacock motifs sit alongside trailing ditsy prints and sequins in a bold palette of pomegranate, cherry, marmalade and plum.

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MISS MILLY British jewellery and accessories brand Miss Milly makes its Adorned at Moda debut this season. The brand’s new Amora Collection focuses on a romantic nomad trend, styled with geometric shapes and matte silver metal, embellished with stones in pastel shades of duck egg blue, pale pistachio, salmon rose and dusky sand. The award-winning Flora collection is influenced by the Tropics, featuring palm fronds, parrot feathers and butterfly wings, in a bright colour palette, while the brand’s scarves and snoods complement both jewellery collections.

— LÉO GUY Founded in Paris in 1978, French knitwear specialist Léo Guy makes its debut at Moda this season with an elegant range of sweaters, cardigans, twin-sets and dresses aimed at the fashion-conscious woman aged 30-plus.

— COLINE The French label, based in Bordeaux in South West France, will appear at Moda for the first time in February. The mid-priced collection, which spans urban and sportswear, is colourful with an ethnic touch, targeting women who value originality and enjoy their femininity.

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RETAIL DIARY After flat sales and a shocking lack of footfall in October and early November, the last six weeks of 2013 formed a very promising springboard for us to launch into the New Year.

— Our newest addition to the shop is Marc Cain, which began to arrive in late November. The brand has a strong following and we have learned it has a strong customer base in Colchester. Naturally, we wanted to position ourselves in their sightline, so we began a soft campaign on Twitter and Facebook in the weeks prior to its arrival and gathered new customers’ contact details. The delivery has been arriving quite sporadically but when we have sufficient in-store we will hold an informal drinks reception showcasing the collection to those customers exclusively.

Given the profile of the brand and the loyalty it enjoys we hope to secure a new customer from this introduction and reposition ourselves in the minds of the consumer. I’d love to say we’re immune to the ever-advancing Sales, now arriving long before Christmas but, as any retailer knows, reality and cash-flow often need to take precedent over principle. In our case, the pre-Christmas Sale worked a treat. We maximised its impact by revamping the shop floor and devoting the downstairs entirely to Sale merchandise, with the new collections on the first floor. It was a radical shift for us from a 29-year-old set-up where the first floor was referred to as the Sale Room. The result was the most successful first day of the Winter Sale we have ever had. This has made me rethink a lot of things regarding how we encourage customers to shop. Essentially, I think it’s just a case of making it easy for the customer to find what they want, and if we want to sell Sale merchandise we need to have it right there when they walk in! I’ve always tried to take heed of Einstein’s wisdom that if we keep doing the same things we’ll keep getting the same results, but now and again I need reminding to shake things up. As a small business owner, it’s easy to become embroiled in administration, so new ideas are often crushed beneath the weight of the piles of paperwork. We all feel encouraged here now and keen to take on 2014 with fresh thinking and a positive perspective.

Vicki Wheeler is founder and owner of Ambiance of Colchester and a committee member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB) www.fashion associationofbritain.co.uk

FORUM —

RETAIL FORUM

The latest news from the industry —

ALEXANDRA’S EXPANDS WITH NEW SHOP

G-STAR RETHINKS DENIM RETAIL G-Star Raw launches its new retail concept on Oxford Street in London last month.

The minimalist and gallery-like flagship store is set over 470 sqm and features the brand’s denim for both men and women. The denim wall has been reinvented into an iconic presentation of seven key styles, showing off the craftsmanship, materials and 3D engineering of the denim. A comfortable fitting room with a personalised service takes centre stage, while the stockroom has been opened up and exposed into a key feature, displayed behind a fully glass-fronted mezzanine with the systematically organised stock clearly visible to all.

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After three years of trading on Main Street in Keswick, Cumbria, womenswear indie Alexandra’s made the move into larger premises in Packhorse Court nearer the town centre before the end of last year. Owner Alexandra Boardman had been looking for suitable larger premises that could accommodate the growth of the store, and was thrilled to have found, signed and sealed the contracts within five weeks.

The launch was celebrated with a special Fizzy Friday party open to selected loyal customers and friends of the store, and now Boardman is looking forward to adding more brands to her store mix.

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WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR IN A NEW LABEL FOR A/W 14?

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NORR MAKES UK FORAY Danish retail concept Norr has launched concessions at four House of Fraser stores, in an exclusive partnership to introduce the Scandinavian chain to the UK. The concessions will be available at House of Fraser stores in Manchester, Birmingham, Glasgow and Guildford in Surrey, as well as online at www.houseoffraser.co.uk. Norr is an innovative retail offering that unites contemporary womenswear and luxury homeware from some of Denmark’s most coveted fashion and lifestyle brands, such as St-Martins and S’nob, in distinctive shop-in-shop environments.

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SOHO POP-UP SHOP FOR JOYRICH

EVE MOREVE Benvestito, Weybridge

“A priority is flexibility of delivery dates; we do not want to receive autumn stock in June or spring stock in December and January.

We are also looking for manufacturers with lower price points, to increase our margin without reducing quality.”

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PAMELA STEVENTON Casa Magnolia, Newton Abbot

“I’m looking out for something where you don’t have to place really big orders. I don’t want packs of things.

You’ve got to be careful not to be overstocked, and you don’t want to be forced to have big sales, either. What I’m looking for is a label that’s different, stylish and up-market.”

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JAYNE VAUGHAN Belle Diva, Solihull

“I’m looking for a mutually beneficial partnership, based on trust and honesty. I recently began stocking a label which is just fantastic from a marketing perspective; it sent out catalogues before the stock arrived and I received a CD for my marketing campaign. It was really proactive.”

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HEIDEL CAMPBELL Puschka, Chichester

“I’ll be looking for good quality at reasonable prices. The recession has been really tough, and it’s getting tougher on the high street; we’re competing with the internet, and sometimes our own suppliers.

People just don’t want to pay hundreds of pounds for a winter coat any more.”

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US brand Joyrich is entering the UK market with a pop-up event in London this month, taking over a room at super-cool Soho indie Machine-A and turning it into a dedicated Joyrich space selling s/s 14 merchandise.

The brand draws on a variety of design sources, with bright graphics having become the trademark of the label, with a “retro-future” flair inspired by iconic items from the past also key.

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MY FAVOURITE SHOP...

TONIC

by Kinsie Sidolle, womenswear sales manager, TCA Showroom

Tonic Fulham Road, London, SW10 9QH Established: 2012 Owner: Maureen Dolan Brands: Sisters Point, Redsoul, Pit, Blend, Coster Copenhagen, Silvian Heach, Culture “The shop is in Fulham Road in London, not too far from my workplace, so I can pop in during my lunch break to have a look at their new stock. They have something new every week and I love the fact that they offer both menswear and womenswear. The shop has a real Danish feel, from the wooden floor details to the minimalistic furniture. Angela, who is the store manager, is a fabulous visual merchandiser and window dresser, so always knows how to make the collections stand out.

The customer service is over the top, they always go the extra mile for their clients.

Definitely worth a visit.”

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95 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JANUARY 2014

EXPERTS —

ADVICE Industry experts answer your retail questions —

HOW DO YOU VALUE AGENT COMPENSATION? How do you value compensation to be paid to your agent on termination of the agency agreement? For some time, the position has been clear – compensation is the price that a notional third-party purchaser would pay for the agency if the agency had continued and was made available for sale on the open market.

Usually, the amount in question is determined on the basis of expert evidence put forward by agent and principal.

Indeed, this was the position in the latest reported court case concerning compensation. The experts in this case had agreed the direct costs of the agency. But there was a dispute as to the indirect costs to be deducted from the profits of the agency in order to ascertain the net income stream. The agent held a number of agencies with different principals. The agencies generated an aggregate annual commission of around £1m. Accordingly, the £60,000 annual commission that was achieved under the terminated agency agreement represented only a small proportion of the agent’s total commissions received each year. The agent’s expert claimed that the majority of the agent’s overheads should be regarded as fixed costs because they would continue to be required to support the agent’s other agencies, whether or not the agent still had the agency with the former principal.

Unsurprisingly, the former principal’s expert disagreed.

Instead, he proposed “absorption costing”, by which all overheads (including fixed costs) were to be apportioned to costs centres and income streams using pre-determined rates. The court preferred the evidence of the agent’s expert on fixed costs. However, what of the multiplier to be applied to the annual net income stream? The former principal argued that a multiplier of 2 times should be applied. In contrast the agent argued that a multiplier of 7 times should be applied. The judge, in a Solomonesque decision, determined that a multiplier of 4.5 times would be applied to the net income stream. While this was less than the amount the agent had sought, it is the case that it was still 250 per cent more than the principal had offered to pay and, with a certain degree of planning, the principal could possibly have avoided having to make a payment of this amount.

To avoid paying compensation, the principal must provide in the agency agreement that on termination the agent will be entitled under the regulations to an indemnity and not compensation.

If the payment of compensation or indemnity is to be avoided, then the principal must point to a material breach of the agency by the agent which justifies immediate termination.

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Stephen Sidkin is a partner in Fox Williams LLP (www.agentlaw.co.uk, www.fashionlaw.co.uk).

HOW CAN I MAKE THE MOST OF ONLINE OPPORTUNITIES? E-commerce has certainly been on the up in 2013 and, with the trend only expected to grow in 2014, how can businesses ensure they are making the most of the opportunities open to them?

DON’T IGNORE THE HIGH STREET Online retail may be seen as a replacement for the high street but, in 2014, e-commerce sites will need bricks-and-mortar stores more than ever. As consumers switch to shopping across multiple channels and blend online with offline shopping, e-commerce companies should be looking to establish a high-street presence, so customers can see products up close and try before they buy.

OFFER A PERSONALISED SERVICE It’s becoming more important to treat customers as individuals, however a recent study by customer experience expert SDL suggested that 36 per cent of European online retailers have not invested in in-house personalisation services for customers. Retailers should offer customers tailored recommendations and send them targeted messages about deals that may interest them or gently remind them about abandoned shopping carts to show they are noticed and valued.

CREATE A MOBILE-FRIENDLY SITE Today’s shoppers want to make purchases on the go, and are using mobile devices to access the web. Data from SplitPixel predicts that there will be an 84 per cent increase in mobile devices’ share of website hits between 2013 and 2014 while, by next year, more than half of people will have used mobile devices to carry out online purchases.

Where possible, make sure you factor mobile shopping in your e-commerce strategy to avoid alienating this growing customer base.

KEEP YOUR WEBSITE UPDATED Keeping website content regularly updated can be time consuming, but it is important to the success of an e-commerce store. Not only will it increase your website’s searchability, but updating with high-quality, appropriate video, image-led and written content will single you out as a knowledgeable resource and keep consumers coming back.

TARGET EXISTING CUSTOMERS Data gathered by Yotpo shows that new visitors spend an average of two minutes and 31 seconds on a site, compared with five minutes and 31 seconds for returning visitors. Returning visitors also look at more pages per visit on average and are more likely to make purchases, meaning campaigns that target existing customers can pay off – so don’t forget them or assume their continued loyalty.

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James Hardy is head of Europe for Alibaba.com.

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EU £75 (includes p&p)

Outside EU £146 (includes p&p)

Alice and Barnabe 01626 879998 Ana Nonza 01626 879998 Annette Goertz 020 7436 0701 www.annettegoertz.com Apanage 020 7636 7111 www.apanage.de Atelier Gardeur 0049 5241 3076194 www.gardeur.de Bandolera 07769 700 037 www.bandolera.com Betty Barclay 020 7580 3577 www.bettybarclay.co.uk Bitte Kai Rand 07463 645670 www.bittekairand.com/uk B.YU 020 7434 1994 www.b-yu.it Cameo 020 7349 8887 www.cameothelabel.com.au Caractere 020 7580 5075 www.caractere.it Carla Goli 020 7434 1994 www.carlagoli.it Charli 020 8440 1321 www.charli.co.uk Cinque 020 7580 6244 www.cinque.de Closed 0049 40 44 1840 66 www.closed.com Crea Concept 020 7436 0631 www.creaconcept.com Creenstone 020 7436 1701 www.creenstone.com Day Birger et Mikkelsen www.day.dk Dents 01985 211921 Double Two 01924 375651 Ecla 020 7434 1994 Elisa Cavaletti 07876 333397 www.elisacavaletti.com Eugen Klein 020 7636 5477 www.eugenklein.com Elena Miro 020 7580 5075 www.elenamiro.com Faber 020 7636 9140 www.faber.de Gaby’s 01985 211926 Gelco 020 7580 3202 www.gelco.de Godske 020 7636 3063 www.godske.com Guido Lombardi 01625 529529 Habella 020 7636 3063 www.godske.com Hauber 020 7323 6100 www.hauber-collection.de Ingenious Jewellery 020 8445 6234 www.ingenious-jewellery.com James Lakeland 020 7636 7130 www.jameslakeland.net Jay Ley Collection 01782 658947 Jorli 020 7636 3063 www.godske.com Kirsten 020 7636 4207 www.kirsten-mode.com Latte 041 204 0699 www.premierfashions.co.uk Luisa Cerano 020 7323 6101 www.luisacerano.com Madeline 0034 916522316 www.madelinefactory.com Marc Aurel 0049 5241 9450 www.marc-aurel.com Marc Cain 0049 7471 7090 www.marc-cain.com Michele 020 7636 4207 www.michele.de Monari 020 7636 4207 www.monari.de Neon Rose 0161 235 5289 www.neonrose.com Of the Realm 0161 829 0751 Parka London 020 7424 6889 www.parkalondon.com Passport 020 7580 3202 www.passport-fashion.de Prey of London 0207 488 1380 www.preyoflondon.com Qneel 020 7636 3063 www.godske.com Ravel 01706 212512 Refa 020 7636 3063 www.godske.com Rene Lezard 020 7436 1701 www.renelezard.com Ruby Rocks 07973 718301 www.rubyrocks.com Sam Ubhi 020 8767 5533 www.samubhi.com Sandwich 020 7751 9000 www.veldhovengroup.com Selected Femme 020 7650 2016 www.selected.com Steilmann 020 7291 0520 www.steilmann.com Sugarhill Boutique 01273 911393 www.sugarhillboutique.com Verpass 0049 9266 96471 www.verpass.com Zerres 0049 2 1186 28990 www.zerres.de

98 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JANUARY 2014

UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL —

SOFIA STRAZZANTI The owner of fashion agency Innocenza talks about finding a niche in the market and her ambitious plans for the business.

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You launched Innocenza in 2008 and have recently added a retail arm to your operation with the launch of Norr to the UK. What does this mean for your agency?

It means I am able to represent an opportunity for my brand partners in the UK and a new concept of concession retailing. Norr is a new, unique retail offering that unites contemporary womenswear and luxury homeware from some of Denmark’s most coveted fashion and lifestyle brands in distinctive shop-in-shop environments. Running retail also gives us first-hand understanding of the challenges our wholesale customers face.

Before launching the agency you worked as a designer for bespoke high-end clothing – what prompted you to take the leap into becoming an agent?

My personal experience of being an independent designer made me realise how challenging the fashion business is if you are not properly represented by an agent who is passionate about you and your brand. I set up Innocenza so I could truly represent labels but also lend my broader experience.

What is your niche as a fashion agent?

I am committed to finding new talent in Europe and bringing them to the UK. I love discovering new designers who are not only original but also know how to design and deliver on time and on budget with a clear brand identity.

Why did you decide to specialise in Nordic labels?

I launched Innocenza at the start of the recession. Gestuz, my first Danish brand, presented a distinct opportunity for premium retailers who needed an entry price-point product without compromising on quality and identity.

Gestuz was one of the first labels that offered this at that time. Still to this day, my Scandinavian designers, no matter what price or market level they operate within, consistently deliver on design, quality and value for money.

What are your plans for the agency in the future?

Last year I opened a larger showroom in the West End, launched the four Norr concessions and expanded my team, all while still growing my business in a challenging market. It has opened up further exciting opportunities to expand Norr, as well as retail opportunities for my other designers.

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INSIDER: Who is your style icon and why?

Coco Chanel – classic, boyish, unconventional and unbelievably committed to her brand and vision.

— Which fashion business do you admire and why?

Burberry – a heritage brand that since reinvention has continued to innovate, stay relevant and create exciting collections, which are commercial and influential.

— What’s the best piece of industry advice you’ve ever been given?

Follow your instinct and never give up. Have patience, perseverance and a strong handle on cash flow.

— What’s the one fashion item you can’t live without?

Boy shoes. They complement every designer in my showroom!

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