FEBRUARY 2014 — ISSUE 235 WOMENSWEAR BUYER
— NET GAINS How Gray & Osbourn is serving the 40-plus market —
— FLYING HIGH Nick Williams shares Marble’s success story —
— A/W 14 AT MODA WWB’s in-depth guide to this month’s show —
— SHEER ELEGANCE A/w 14 evening & occasionwear trends in the spotlight —
07 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
CONTENTS —
REGULARS
FEATURES
FASHION
9 EDITOR’S COMMENT — 10 NEWS — 18 BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear — 20 TALKING POINT — 104 ADVICE Experts answer your questions — 106 RETAIL FORUM The latest news from the industry — 110 UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL With designer Mary Grant —
24 Q&A With Gray & Osbourn’s Sandie Osbourn — 39 IN THE FAST LANE Marble’s rapid rise from small beginnings — 63 A/ W 14 AT MODA A comprehensive preview of the show — 98 SCOOP INTERNATIONAL The highlights from last month’s exhibition — 102 BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN WWB sums up the key brands —
28 STYLE FILE — 34 FASHION RADAR — 44 URBAN JUNGLE The hottest a/w 14 looks in mainstream womenswear — 91 DAY & NIGHT The key trends in evening and occasionwear —
FRONT COVER: BIKER JACKET, HAUBER —
Autumn/Winter 2014 UK - LONDON Showroom Second Floor, Ashley House 12 Great Portland Street LONDON W1W 8QN Thursday, 6th February to Friday, 21st February 2014 (excluding 17th/18th February) Also showing at: Moda / NEC BIRMINGHAM Stand I031 Sunday, 16th February to Tuesday, 18th February 2014 GLASGOW Teacher Building, 14 St Enoch Square Glasgow G1 4DB Monday, 24th February and Tuesday, 25th February 2014 contact: Karen Brookes / mobile +44 (0)79 848 242 22 Liz d Esterre / mobile +44 (0)77 146 803 73 LONDON Showroom: +44 (0)20 758 000 85 _____________________________________________________
Monday, 24th February to Wednesday, 26th February 2014 contact: Ruth Keane / mobile: +353 (0)879 058 668
www.bianca.de
IRELAND Graine O Rourke Models Ltd Fashion House, No 4 Fashion City Ballymount Dublin 24
09 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
Editor Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com — Contributors Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — Sub editor Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — Design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — Sales manager Sam Chambers sam@ras-publishing.com — Subscriptions Caroline Mackinnon caroline@ite-moda.co.uk — Production director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — Portfolio director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com — Reprographics/printing ImageData Group 01482 652323
— WWB is published 11 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 — Copyright © 2014 WWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication. —
RAS Publishing is an ITE Group PLC company A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication WWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include MWB and CWB.
COMMENT —
THE WWB TEAM HAS BEEN OUT AND ABOUT AT THE KEY SHOWS OF THE SEASON SO FAR, AND IT’S ENCOURAGING TO HEAR THAT MANY OF THE INDUSTRY’S MOVERS AND SHAKERS ARE FEELING UPBEAT ABOUT THE SEASON AND 2014 IN GENERAL. — It makes a change to the doom and gloom of the last few years, and is a nice reminder of the vibrancy that defines the industry. The mood at most of the shows in January has been mainly positive, with the majority of brand managers and agents attesting a change in attitudes from buyers, who are approaching the season’s buying with renewed (cautious) confidence and professionalism. At last month’s Scoop, for instance, the atmosphere was distinctly optimistic, with a number of brands having told me that they could feel a difference in buyers this season, and that “we are turning a corner.” This may have much to do with the fact that recent media headlines about the economy have also been unusually positive, with reports that economic growth has been the fastest since 2007 making for much more welcome reading. Whether this is actually felt or truly reflected on grassroots, ie consumer level (do consumers really have more money in their pockets?), it certainly seems to have a deep psychological impact on many peoples’ mentality towards spending, which does in turn have a positive effect on our trade. For this issue we caught up with a number of key indies from across the UK and, while most agree that they are feeling relatively upbeat about the year, it’s also interesting to hear that they are by no means relying on positive media
headlines and a tentative change in economic climate to steer their fortunes, but are being proactive, analytical and strategic themselves, and this seems like the most sensible way to be. Has your business improved over the last few months? Or do you disagree with the optimism? As always, let us know your thoughts by emailing me or tweeting @wwbmagazine.
Isabella Griffiths, editor
10 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
NEWS —
OPTIMISM MARKS START TO 2014 As the UK economy is showing signs of recovery, indies up and down the country share in a more positive sentiment for 2014. —
Latest figures released by the Office for National Statistics (ONS) have revealed that, last year, the UK’s economy grew at its fastest annual rate since 2007, with overall GDP up by 1.9 per cent in 2013, compared with 2012. This news has been welcomed as the onset of a new chapter in the economic recovery, after years of doom and gloom that have affected all corners of business. Many indies up and down the country concur with the positive start to 2014, though most remain cautious about pronouncing a recuperation of the market just yet. In Harrogate, Guy Hudson, owner of Lynx, says he has seen a marked improvement in trade over the last few months, and attributes some of the change in consumer confidence to more positive reports in the media. “I’ve noticed that things are getting better since December. The press are a bit more positive, and this does then have a positive effect on the consumer, it influences them massively. It can encourage them to hold back on spending, or make them feel more confident and willing to go out and spend,” he says. “We’ve had such a long and severe dip in the marketplace that I think consumers are desperate for good news and to release the purse strings a bit. We’ve had two positive months in terms of the media, and this has been reflected in footfall and takings,” he adds. In Billericay, Essex, Lewis Tweedle,
owner of Lewis Yates, agrees with this view. “Things definitely improved over Christmas and throughout last year. I think people listen to the news, and if it sounds as though the economy is getting better, they’re willing to spend,” he says. “Customer confidence is definitely up, but I still think that as a retailer, you’ve got to be offering them something they want, otherwise they won’t spend anywhere.” The tentatively positive outlook by indies is also backed by Bira’s sales monitor for the last quarter of 2013, which reveals the best average growth among indies since 2010. Though just under half of independent retailers who took part in the survey found things tougher, the fine balance between the two produced a small amount of net growth of just over 1 per cent. Bira’s report also suggests that independents are feeling confident about the year ahead, with the level of confidence said to be the highest since 2009. Lynx’s Hudson is certainly cautiously optimistic, though he believes real improvement and results will be achieved by a combination of economic factors and a reactive business strategy by retailers themselves. “Let’s take one month at a time. We’re facing severe weather, and one can’t get too confident until February is out of the way, he says. But, overall, I’m optimistic for 2014 – I don’t think you can expect
“Overall, I’m optimistic for 2014 – I don’t think you can expect improvement, but it would be nice if it came. We’ve reviewed our policies, and our buying strategy for 2014 has changed. So if there is improvement, it will be from a blend of all these things”
improvement, but it would be nice if it came. We’ve reviewed our policies, and our buying strategy for 2014 has changed. So if there is improvement, it will be from a blend of all these things.” Lewis Yate’s Tweedle agrees. “I’m fairly confident. If you try to be proactive, stay ahead and get the right collections, there’s no reason why things can’t improve. There’s no reason it won’t get better,” he says.
11 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
NEWS —
EUCALYPTUS BLOSSOMS FOR A/W 14 Following a period of extensive research into the UK manufacturing process, British womenswear brand Eucalyptus Clothing is launching a Made in the UK range for a/w 14. Entirely sourced and produced in the UK, the capsule range includes party dresses in a variety of styles, including shimmery winter fabrics, florals and brocade. Reflecting Baroque influences, prints are subtle as is the colour palette, which includes hues of pink and grey. Price points for the Made in the UK range are marginally lower than the core collection due to lower production and logistical costs, with other benefits including increased control within the design and creative process, quicker production times and closer links with suppliers. Celebrating its 12th anniversary this year, Eucalyptus began trading in Camden Market before expanding operations to the rest of the UK, Western Europe, Japan and the USA. —
COO MAKES MARKET DEBUT UK label Coo is making its official market debut for a/w 14, following a successful soft launch last season which saw the brand open more than 40 accounts. Coo, which specialises in dresses for all occasions, is the creation of husband and wife team Nigel and Claudia Hughes, the team behind Apt Collections, which also represents a number of international fashion labels, as well as operating a supply and production arm within the business. Coo is aimed at 35+ woman and offers around 30 dresses suitable for special occasions or business meetings alike. Typically working in high twist Japanese crepe, silk and poly-stretch satins, georgettes and jacquards, the collection is available in sizes 8 to 20, with wholesale prices between £60 and £85. “By knowing what our customers want, we have paid a lot of attention to style, quality and fit and a little bit more to those areas that we’re all so conscious of,” says Claudia Hughes, director. —
RONEN CHEN LAUNCHES PLUS-SIZE RANGE Launching this season is a new plus-size range from womenswear brand Ronen Chen. Developed in response to customer demand, the range caters up to a UK size 22 and includes the key styles of a classic oversized boxy dress in black, and a versatile block colour shift with long, T-shirt sleeves, which can be worn to the office but equally teamed with heels for a smarter look. — NOTTINGHAM’S SHOPPING SCENE MARKED FOR REVAMP Nottingham City Council has signed a conditional development agreement with shopping centre operator Intu for a £190m redevelopment of its two shopping centres over the coming years. Plans include the redevelopment of Nottingham’s Intu Broadmarsh shopping centre, car park and surrounding public realm improvements, as well as the current work underway to remodel and refurbish the Intu Victoria Centre ahead of a wider development and extension of the shopping centre. — BARBOUR INTERNATIONAL COLLABORATES WITH FRANCIS LEON Barbour International has launched a collaboration with Australian deluxe streetwear brand Francis Leon, known for its sharp tailoring and sportswear detailing. It is the first women’s collaboration for Barbour International and is inspired by the brand’s motorcycle heritage, which began in 1936. It will make its debut for a/w 14 and will be available in stores from July. The Nightrider collection takes its influences from a new breed of fearless heroine bikers, with garments demonstrating futuristic functionality, featuring constructed jackets, quilts and knitwear. —
12 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
NEWS —
GELCO UNVEILS NEW STORE CONCEPT German fashion brand Gelco has invested in a new store concept to optimise display of its collections and support retail partnerships both domestically and internationally. Utilising a modern handwriting and natural colours, the store design is geared to areas of approximately 80 sqm, creating a generous point of sale area. “First reactions confirm that our trade partners are excited about the new store concept,” confirms Gelco managing director, Jürgen Richter. “We always identify and meet the needs of our target customer and never lose track. The relaxed and inviting presentation of the brand, conveying a certain attitude towards life, is a crucial aspect in which the company continuously invests.” Gelco is distributed in more than 30 countries worldwide, in which it has 20 partner stores and 250 concessions. With 12 colour stories per year, the brand consistently offers retail partners fresh merchandise, with the new store concept designed to help customers further connect with the brand. —
SCOOP STRENGTHENS ITS TOP POSITION Last month’s directional womenswear show Scoop International saw a 10 per cent rise in visitor figures, with over 50 new designers having taken part, cementing the show as the leading UK showcase for contemporary, niche and designer labels. More than 400 brands exhibited their collections across the two venues – the prestigious Saatchi Gallery in Chelsea and Philips in Victoria – with premium retailers from the likes of Harrods, Matches, Browns, Fortnum & Mason, Liberty and Net-a-Porter having attended the three-day event. Anna Park, owner of boutique Anna in Primrose Hill, London, says, “I flew to Heathrow from Los Angeles on Monday at 3pm and arrived at Scoop at 4.45pm. It’s a show I cannot afford to miss. The collections continue to get more interesting.” Olivia Hearn, sales manager at Parka London, adds, “We had a good show and opened lots of new accounts. We didn’t stop for most of the three days. The quality of buyers visiting the show is really high.” The next edition of Scoop will take place on 13-15 July at both iconic venues. —
SOMEWHERE AGENCY EXPANDS PORTFOLIO Fashion agency Somewhere has been appointed as UK representative for Australian label Handsom’s womenswear line. Already well-established in Melbourne, this is the first time that the label will show in the Northern hemisphere. The agreement covers the whole of the UK commencing with a/w 14. The agency will be showing the brand until 24 February at its new permanent showroom on 34 Tunstall Road, SW9 8DA. — NICOLE SCHERZINGER COLLABORATES WITH MISSGUIDED Fashion e-tailer Missguided has signed up pop star Nicole Scherzinger to design a 30-piece capsule collection, entitled Nicole x Missguided. Scherzinger will collaborate with the design team to create the range, which is set to feature a mix of directional dresses, jumpsuits, skirts, bodysuits and tops. Nitin Passi, managing director at Missguided, says, “Working with Nicole was a natural choice for us. She’s personable, fun and loves to experiment with fashion – all qualities that truly represent our customer. She is a great ambassador for the brand and we’re excited to see the response to the collection.” The Nicole x Missguided line will launch exclusively on Missguided.co.uk in March 2014. — NEW KARDASHIAN KOLLECTION FOR LIPSY LAUNCHES The Kardashian Kollection for Lipsy s/s 14 line, the largest collection to date, debuts online at Lipsy.co.uk and across selected Lipsy stores in the UK this month, before being rolled out into other international territories early March. After the sell-out success of the debut Kardashian Kollection for Lipsy, which launched in October 2013, it is expected that the new range will make a similar impact both in terms of sales and social media hype. —
14 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
NEWS —
MALENE BIRGER STEPS DOWN FROM CREATIVE HELM
GROWTH PLANS FOR PANORAMA BERLIN
Malene Birger is stepping down as creative head of By Malene Birger, the label she founded in 2003. She will remain involved in the brand for an interim period to “mentor the design and creative teams” before moving on and dedicating her time to creative projects in her new company, Birger 1962.
A larger venue for s/s 15 will support the continued growth of fashion trade exhibition Panorama Berlin, which saw an 11 per cent increase in visitor figures this season compared to s/s 14. The event, which attracted 40,081 visitors for a/w 14, also saw a marked increase in collections shown, from 360 to 400.
Birger founded the eponymous label 14 years ago with investment from IC Companys, and subsequently sold her stake back to the group in 2010. “I will be handing over ‘the creative keys’ to my design manager, Christina Exsteen, and the design team. Christina has worked closely with me since I founded the company, and for the last three years we have been on a journey to prepare for this day,” says Birger. Birger will mentor the design team until s/s 15. A further cooperation between Birger 1962 and By Malene Birger has not been ruled out. —
The forthcoming s/s edition of the Berlin event will move from the ExpoCenter Airport to a new Messe Berlin location under the Funkturm radio tower. Advantages of the move, as well as providing more exhibition space, include space for fashion shows and easy access to public transport. —
STRATEGIC REFOCUSING FOR WOLFORD Hosiery and lingerie firm Wolford is strategically refocusing its business, including assessing brand positioning and evaluating opportunities that will strengthen the company’s ability going forward. Key strategy points include introducing a shaper product line and collection statement that better reflects the expectations of customers and future customers, including a focus shift to the company’s core expertise of legwear and the discontinuation of swimwear as of s/s 15. Emphasis on innovation, creativity and core expertise will also take place, as will optimised monobrand distribution and investments in ecommerce. Wolford will also implement attractive partner concepts, with activities in this area concentrating on existing and new department store partners as well as specialised wholesalers. Finally, the business plans to intensify communications, specifically targeting new customers at suitable points of sale. —
TEXTILE FORUM INTRODUCES INSPIRATIONAL FABRICS Among the new exhibitors at next month’s fashion fabric show Textile Forum is military fabric specialist A W Hainsworth. It will join more than 50 fabric collections during the two-day event. Other new exhibitors are Platinum Bridal Fabrics, Partap Fashion Fabrics and Zia Embroideries. Textile Forum takes place on 5-6 March at One Marylebone, Regent’s Park. As part of its plans to develop Textile Forum, a new website and registration system has been launched at www.textileforum.co.uk. — HOF’S ONLINE DESTINATION FOR PLUS SIZE House of Fraser is launching a plus-size online shop at houseoffraser.co.uk on 3 March. The store will cater for women size 14-28, bringing together an edited selection of plus-size clothing ranges including Marina Rinaldi and Anna Scholz. “As a reaction to the growing demand for plus-size womenswear, we have created an online boutique that showcases some of the most exciting brands from around the world,” says Louise Bailey, womenswear brand and concession buying manager. Other key brands will include young fashion labels AX Curve, Little Mistress Curvy and Samya. Classic British lifestyle brand Chesca will be joined by international names such as Marina Rinaldi and new additions to the UK, Persona and Taking Shape. Special occasionwear, lingerie, hosiery and swimwear will also feature. — PARK LANE REFRESHES WEBSITE Costume jewellery brand Park Lane has redeveloped its website www.parklaneonline.com to offer new and improved features, providing a clearer, more userfriendly purchasing platform for customers. Highlights include the ability to quickly and easily add new ranges, as well as improved, larger images with zoom facility. —
1 3 - 1 5
J U L Y
2 0 1 4
SCOOP-INTERNATIONAL.COM
Pure Stand J 88 Moda, NEC Stand 140
FRANK SAUL (FASHIONS) LTD. FRANK SAUL HOUSE, STEELE ROAD, PARK ROYAL, LONDON NW10 7AR TEL . + 44 (0) 208 965 1522
FAX. + 44 (0) 208 965 1518
E.MAIL. info@franksaul.com
WEB. www.franksaul.com
Copyright © 2012 - 2015 Frank Saul Fashions and/ or its suppliers. All rights reserved © Crown copyright 2011. All rights reserved
COLLECTION FA L L W I N T E R 2014 -15 S t a n d E 1 5 M o d a Wo m a n T 0141 204 0699
18 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
PEOPLE —
BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear —
BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS
SELFRIDGES AND UNITED NUDE TEAM UP ARCHITECTURAL AND EXPERIMENTAL FOOTWEAR BRAND UNITED NUDE HAS OPENED AN EXHIBITION AND POP-UP STORE AT SELFRIDGES, LONDON. THE EXHIBITION FOCUSES ON UNITED NUDE’S EVER-BLURRING BOUNDARIES BETWEEN FASHION, ART AND ARCHITECTURE. PROVIDING THE ULTIMATE DUAL STORE EXPERIENCE, IT IS AN INVITATION TO UNDERSTAND THE BRAND’S DESIGN PROCESS WHILE COMBINING A MODERN-DAY SHOE ART INSTALLATION WITH THE ULTIMATE SHOPPING EXPERIENCE.
More than 200 of the brightest young entrepreneurs in UK fashion gathered to hear invaluable advice from some of the industry’s most influential figures during StartUp Britain, an information and networking event organised by UKFT Rise, last month. Representatives from Karen Millen, Ted Baker, Orla Kiely, Stylist magazine, Etsy and Harrods were among the speakers, covering all aspects of growing a business in GOLF fashion. The ambitious group CHAMPIONSHIP heard invaluable advice and — tips, from building a team and The 69th Golf Championship of developing strong supplier the Shoe Leather and Allied Trades will take place on 11-13 relationships to sourcing June at The Belfry in finance and brand marketing. Warwickshire. For further — information call 0116 243 4081. —
“
Due to significant public demand, the Hello My Name Is Paul Smith exhibition at London’s Design Museum has been extended until 22 June. The showcase is an invitation into the world of the designer and his creation, inspiration and collaboration.
▲
JOHN LEWIS SPONSORS GLASGOW 2014 COMMONWEALTH GAMES
The future of fashion UK designer Kelly Love was among the 20 lucky winners to take part in last month’s Future of Fashion event, held at Parisian fashion trade show Who’s Next. Ten accessory and 10 ready-to-wear designers were chosen to showcase their designs at the event, with two selected winners entering a two-year coaching programme, led by industry heavyweights, on top of a free presence at the show for four seasons, as well as a business plan worth ¤20,000 to raise funds for further development. —
John Lewis is the “official department store provider” of the Glasgow 2014 Commonwealth Games, a partnership that will see the retailer supply bedding and white goods for the Athletes’ Village. Additionally, Glasgow 2014 merchandise is available to buy on johnlewis.com and, later in the year, dedicated Glasgow 2014 shops will open within the retailer’s Scottish stores in Glasgow, Edinburgh and Aberdeen. —
“
AUTUMN
WINTER
2014
VIEW THE COLLECTION AT PURE, STAND K60 OR TO BOOK AN APPOINTMENT PLEASE CONTACT JOULES ON T: +44 (0) 1858 435261 E: TRADE@JOULES.COM
20 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
OPINION —
TALKING POINT Key industry players give their views on the issues that affect womenswear. —
ONE THING IN FASHION NEVER CHANGES...
AD-DRESSING OUR WOMEN AGED 40 AND BEYOND
Moving to new premises having just sold my building on Ogle Street after 11 years has made me understand that the one thing in fashion that never changes is continuous change.
YOLO – you only live once. I love that expression, and it inspires me every time I hear it. So when it comes to dressing women who are aged 40 and beyond, we at Latte hold that zest for life close to our hearts.
Everyone seems to have commented on my move, from the bank director to the postman and staff to suppliers. They kept saying, “You must be so stressed”, “Oh it’s such a shame” and “Do you feel upset?” Actually, for once I put my opinion first that I felt great, I could move every year. In fact, I feel super energised! Our new building, which we will be moving into in the spring, will provide us with so much more space than we had previously. It has also given me the mental space to not have to please everyone. I do not want to dress everyone; I’m not concerned with dressing the latest supposedly famous singer with a fresh bulging ego. I don’t need to accept everyone’s negative comments, and I don’t need to be shy about getting things right. I have not looked back since or felt a tinge of remorse. I have got rid of the rubbish that accumulated over the years, and I have taken away with me all the good experiences and milestones we have reached. I am all about observing oneself, integrating your knowledge and following your instinct. It’s the same in business. I can be a shame when you lose a customer you have had for years, but a new area of opportunity will present itself. Eleven years ago when I first moved into my building, my business was 90 per cent wholesale and 10 per cent retail. Now, it is 25 per cent wholesale, 25 per cent internet and TV and 50 per cent retail. It has changed dramatically, but we’ve embraced every change along the way. This year has started off with a much stronger consumer confidence than 2012 or 2013. The James Lakeland brand is focusing on a niche market, and we have created numerous bestsellers and hero pieces. I want to provide a unique and creative experience for the consumer, so that her James Lakeland coat, knit or dress is her “I love” piece in her wardrobe. I have been aware for a number of years that consumers have changed their patterns. In fact the casualties in the market are where collections have not taken in consideration changing demands of the market and where the energy and passion has dried up. Retail had to step up dramatically in the last few years in this extremely competitive market. But it also allows the special and niche retailers to shine, if they put the energy into their businesses and look at new areas of opportunities. —
James Lakeland, owner, James Lakeland
I hear ya sister when you say you don’t want to dress like your teenage daughter or niece, but you also don’t want to look like a frump. There’s a fine line between the proverbial mutton dressed as lamb and achieving that fabulous current yet age-appropriate look. We know it so well at Latte, as hardly a day goes by without us experimenting with different styling, shapes and looks. When “ad-dressing” women of today, it’s all about dressing for comfort, but also keeping it stylish. Even corporate clothing has taken a back seat, with workwear becoming much more smart-casual. Women today love fabrics and yarns that are tactile, too; the touch and feel of what we wear is important to us. For next winter, our own collection at Latte features warm-handle separates that are modern and sexy without flashing the flesh. So what turns us on? We do love glossy magazines and following our style icons but, let’s face it, the prices are astronomical and, for most of us, unrealistic. Then you have the high-street stars who do an amazing job but, frankly, it’s depressing that everyone is either wearing the same look or that we find the cut looks worse than awful on our bodies. We are not 25 anymore, and our shape has changed over the years. And by the way, did you know, out of 100 women, only four or five will say they have the “perfect” body. Everyone always feels it’s just them with lumps and bumps, but we can wholeheartedly assure you that it absolutely is not. I love creating clothes that are super flattering. At Latte, the team and I are passionate about producing a collection each season to make women look “shamazing”, as Miss Scherzinger would say. Not much to ask for is it? Every woman wants that magic dress or top that fits us on a good or a bad day and also makes us look good. You know the one – it cinches us in all the right places and we feel great whenever we wear it. Why? Because it gives us the confidence to go out with our family or friends without worrying about how we look – inhibitions gone and we are free to enjoy life. We only have one life after all, so we have to live it. —
Adele Black, co-founder, Latte
24 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
INTERVIEW —
Q&A
Sandie Osbourn — As online retailer Gray & Osbourn approaches its 25th anniversary, those at the helm of the company are reflecting on a business that has evolved in line with an ever-changing core consumer. Christina Williams catches up with co-founder and buying manager Sandie Osbourn to find out more. —
25 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
Christina Williams: How are you celebrating the company’s 25th anniversary? Sandie Osbourn: We’re celebrating in style by creating the Real Woman’s Fashion Rule Book, which will be a free guide available from www.grayandosbourn.co.uk, containing tips from women up and down the country. The book is designed to capture and share the fashion rules that stylish women live by. We want to inspire confidence and provide a platform for women to be seen, heard and understood. We are on the hunt for women to take part in the book, which includes a photo shoot with a dedicated hair and make-up stylist, as well as the chance to wear our latest range. CW: Who is the Gray & Osbourn woman? SO: Our core customer is 45-65 years of age, enjoys a busy lifestyle and therefore looks to us for good-quality clothing and expert styling advice. She buys beyond the high street, enjoying shopping to look good whether she is working, socialising or holidaying. From lunching with friends to exotic travel and days at the races to part-time work, she is confident and comfortable with who she is while welcoming guidance on how to dress stylishly for her age or specific situations. CW: Are occasions such as mother of the bride or cruise holidays outdated when it comes to core fashion for the over-45s? SO: I don’t believe key occasions are outdated. You will always find women who want something special for an event. Finding the perfect mother-of-the-bride outfit can sometimes be almost as important as finding the perfect bridal gown. We also have a loyal customer base that regularly goes on cruise holidays each year, so creating collections and outfit options for that type of holiday has always proved popular. CW: What are the challenges when it comes to dressing this particular sector? SO: It’s about keeping fashion fabulous at every age, so the emphasis is not placed on how old you are, but more on attitude and style across the board. There is no single type of woman; they are at different stages in their life. Some have children who have flown the nest, while some are at the peak of their careers. Different lifestyles demand a different wardrobe, and we provide an edited choice based on expertise and our own insight. Our customer could include a woman who is traditional and likely to purchase more conservative outfits, while we also have customers who adopt more of a youthful attitude and have a keen interest in fashion and the ways in which she can wear it appropriately for her age and body shape. Providing something that will appeal to both these individuals could be seen as a challenge, but we see it as an essential part of our
INTERVIEW —
“AS AN ONLINE RETAILER, WE’RE AWARE THAT WE WANT TO MAKE THE SHOPPING EXPERIENCE AS PLEASURABLE AS POSSIBLE, WHICH MEANS OFFERING EXPERT ADVICE AND IDEAS” offering. Changes in lifestyle over the past few decades have seen women broadening their horizons and a distinct shift in attitude, which means that women need a versatile wardrobe that lends itself to every occasion. CW: Which of your brand partners perform particularly well in responding to the needs of this sector? SO: Brands such as Gardeur, Michele and Gerry Weber are popular choices for women with a more formal or traditional sense of style, while women with a younger outlook tend to lean toward Joseph Ribkoff, Gina Bacconi and NYDJ for a more contemporary feel. We also have over 100 premium names in our online directory including Apanage, Chesca and Betty Barclay. Our customers do appreciate extra guidance from us in the form of a hand-picked selection and, if there is a demand for a new designer or range, we certainly do look into it. CW: How else do you respond to your consumer to maintain your market share? SO: Our priority is to offer the customer what she wants, so we work hard to edit the vast selection of womenswear on offer down to the best pieces. We have a loyal customer base, and we conduct regular market research to ensure we know what customers want from us and can stay ahead of the curve. Due to the fluidity of the business, we are able to quickly implement and trial customer requests if the demand is there. As an online retailer, we’re aware that we want to make the shopping experience as pleasurable as possible, which means offering expert advice and ideas. While we know customers like to browse at their leisure, it’s also important to remember that the Gray & Osbourn woman values her time and appreciates a helping hand from a fashion authority she trusts when trying to decide what to wear. CW: How can you replicate the service that is traditionally associated with a bricks-and-mortar retailer? SO: In this respect, online retailers have a slight disadvantage to bricks-and-mortar establishments because it is harder to
demonstrate the quality, feel and texture of a garment on a screen. But, when customers choose to shop with us, we start by introducing them to new trends or brands, and we paint a picture of where and how an item could be worn. It allows customers to see themselves wearing the garments. We also think it’s important to take our clothing to events, exhibitions and shows to give customers the opportunity to see the items first hand. We have also launched a new website, which has extra functionality and category pages such as occasionwear, so our new style sections are easily accessible. CW: When did you evolve from a catalogue retailer into an online retailer? SO: Initially, in the early 90s and today, our mix between ordering online versus over the phone is around 50/50. We’ve found that our customers have embraced tablet sales, with research suggesting that many of them have received tablet devices for birthday and Christmas, and it has had an impact on their shopping habits. Sales through tablet devices have risen by 14 per cent in the past 12 months. We are constantly testing new ways of engaging with our customers on the site and via social media, and we work across pay per click and search engine optimisation to recruit new customers while also updating our online offer to keep driving traffic to the site. CW: Do you find that the offer often appeals to a consumer who is younger than your target demographic? SO: We do find that certain items from our collections appeal to women who are not necessarily our core customer. You have to remember that most Gray & Osbourn women are mothers, and the age-old story of a daughter borrowing her mother’s clothes doesn’t change. There are fewer restrictions with fashion, so you’ll find that a daughter may see an item that her mother is wearing, compliment her on it and perhaps buy something in a similar shade. We know that our customers want clothes to suit every aspect of their lives and want confidence in the quality and choice of premium brands. I think that these ideals transcend age and reach out with a broader appeal to all women. CW: What would you like to achieve over the next few seasons? SO: I would like to grow our sales and profits by making more customers happy to shop with us on a regular basis. As always, we will invest in finding the most fabulous products for our customers, and continue to evolve our smart daywear into a more relaxed look that reflects the lifestyle of our customers. CW: What is your personal style when it comes to fashion? My personal style is easy glamour. It’s a fine line, but I like to feel put together in an up-to-date way, without feeling overly formal.
Pure Stand J 88 Moda, NEC Stand 140 LBD Stand L 2
FRANK SAUL (FASHIONS) LTD. FRANK SAUL HOUSE, STEELE ROAD, PARK ROYAL, LONDON NW10 7AR TEL . + 44 (0) 208 965 1522
FAX. + 44 (0) 208 965 1518
E.MAIL. info@franksaul.com
WEB. www.mascaracollection.com
Copyright © 2012 - 2015 Frank Saul Fashions and/ or its suppliers. All rights reserved © Crown copyright 2011. All rights reserved
28 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
FASHION —
STYLE FILE The hottest brands not to miss this month —
STYLE FLASH — Surf brand Reef is celebrating its 30-year anniversary with a heritage capsule collection, highlighting key products from its three decades in the lifestyle and activewear sector. —
▲ JUNGLE FEVER Penfield’s s/s 14 collection features its biggest womenswear offering to date, with the collection boasting several new additions in vibrant hues. Quirky jungle florals take centre stage, with pop-coloured flowers and large palm leaves printed onto luxe sweaters, tailored chinos and wax-coated trenches. Chunky backpacks, totes and duffles also feature in the line alongside retro bucket hats and visors. —
▲
FLIRTY UNDIES UK luxury retailer Dirty Pretty Things has launched its diffusion line for a/w 14, aptly named Flirty Pretty Things. After five years of continuous growth, the brand has responded to demand for a more accessible range, taking a crucial step in its further expansion. Fashion forward like the main line, Flirty Pretty Things is available in a wider size range and more commercial price points. —
Dynamic prints and patterns, graphics and silhouettes across a wide range of styles sum up O’Neill’s a/w 14 line. The lifestyle label has once again combined performance with fashion, femininity and key streetwear trends. —
▲ BODY WORK US label DL 1961 was launched in 2008 with a mission to create the “perfect fitting jeans” without sagging, bagging or losing shape. Teaming technology with craftsmanship, the brand uses an exclusive four-way stretch and 98 per cent retention to help contour the body and flatter the female silhouette. —
Uzma Bozai is a luxury lifestyle brand that aims to STYLE FLASH — reinvigorate traditional Superga has appointed actress textile techniques, and and model Suki Waterhouse as the face of its new s/s 14 works with artisan campaign, which is based on communities to keep Sprezzatura, the Italian art of looking good without time-honored crafts seemingly trying. alive. The brand is fast — becoming known for its bold patterns, juxtaposed with contemporary silhouettes. —
—
Lasting design Amsterdam brand Ikku specialises in “future-friendly” and sustainable accessories, with its latest collection featuring organic cotton denim combined with vegetable-tanned leather. Timeless and durable, these materials have formed the basis for the Black & Blue range, which features sleeves for MacBooks in various sizes, iPads (also mini), a neck wallet for iPhone (pictured), a card holder, a shopper and a key ring. —
General Enquiries 01392 876390 l Customer Service 0800 294 3373 JosephRibkoff.com
Official sponsor of O
Michael Black · Premier Fashions Limited · 82 Mitchell St. · Glasgow · G1 3NA · T: 0141 204 0699 · E-Mail: fashion@premierfashions.co.uk
www.toni-fashion.com
NEC BIRMINGHAM
MODA
16 - 18 FEBRUARY 2014
STAND J 30
34 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
FASHION —
FASHION RADAR The hottest brands to look out for right now —
LEON & HARPER
KILIAN KERNER
Parisian label Leon & Harper is one of the brands to watch this season, thanks to its skilfully reinterpreted wardrobe basics.
German brand Kilian Kerner is hailed as a landmark on its native fashion scene, and demand for the label is now also growing internationally, with the UK a key focus.
Established: 2011
Established: 2004
Signature style: The range is constructed around masculine and feminine dress codes, making for an ageless and timeless, while very current, collection.
Signature style: Clean lines and impeccable tailoring characterise the range, but always with an eye on standout details.
After 25 years at French label Et Vous, designer Philippe Corbin decided to create his own brand, and the result is Leon & Harper, a quirky and yet wearable brand of wardrobe staples. The brand is inspired by design, art, music and travel, creating what the designer calls a real “woman’s wardrobe” that responds to the needs of the modern consumer. From chino trousers to leather biker jackets, through colourful tees to printed knitwear, the brand adapts to a modern silhouette and elegance. The brand sits alongside the likes of Zoe Karrsen, Zadig & Voltaire, American Vintage and Acne, and appeals to twenty-somethings to the more mature customer, with Victoria Wood said to be a fan. —
Receiving high praise from international fashion critic Suzy Menkes – who referenced designer Kilian Kerner as one of the major talents among aspiring German creatives – is a seal of approval indeed. Kerner launched his eponymous premium line ten years ago, and in its native Germany it is among the flagship brands of Berlin Fashion Week and loved by celebrities for its clean and classic elegance with a contemporary twist. The brand is now sold in 14 countries worldwide. Fashion and music are a recurring theme in the collections, with frequent collaborations with international singers and bands. More recently, Kerner also launched a diffusion line, Kilian Kerner Senses, which is already successfully selling in the UK in the likes of Fenwick and House of Fraser, with the focus on further expansion via wholesale channels this season. —
GINA BACCONI 020 8438 2000 sales@ginabacconi.com WWW.GINABACCONI.COM
0208 438 2000 www.rubyray.com
39 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
PROFILE —
Since its launch six years ago, UK womenswear brand Marble has taken rapid steps to becoming the go-to brand for hundreds of UK fashion indies, as well as increasingly widening its net internationally. Isabella Griffiths caught up with co-founder and MD Nick Williams to talk about the impressive success of the label. —
IN THE FAST LANE Marble
I
t takes guts to sell your house, scoop up the money and invest it in a start-up fashion label at the height of a recession, but that is exactly what Nick Williams, MD of UK womenswear label Marble, did in 2008. A fashion wholesaler by trade, having represented a number of fashion brands across Wales for over two decades, he teamed up with fellow Scottish agent Lynn Paul to set up Marble as an additional revenue stream after turnover began to fall in an increasingly tough market. “Lynn and I had been working together and representing the same labels for years, me in Wales and her in Scotland, but over the last few years we had been struggling to get exclusivity from our suppliers and they were over saturating the market. We were finding it difficult to make the figures stack up and needed to do something about it,” says Williams. “So we decided to launch our own label, initially just to supply our own wholesale business. But we soon had interest from other parts of the UK that we weren’t supplying, so we took a small stand at Moda that season to see how we would get on. We couldn’t believe the good response we had,” he adds, still clearly chuffed with the reaction from the trade at the time.
Season on season order volumes – and the size of the Marble stand at Moda – grew, and now Marble is not only one of the key labels at the show, with one of the biggest stands, but also supplies around 400 independents in the UK and another 400 internationally. Neither Williams or Paul could have predicted the prompt success their label would have, and it’s obviously a credit to their business nous and commercial awareness that they have made it work, against the odds, as some would say. “A lot of people have since told me that I’m quite a risk taker, but it didn’t seem it at the time. I mean, what was I supposed to do? I’d been self-employed since I was 23, business was decreasing, so I had to do something, and the same goes for Lynn. I think we took a calculated risk, and thankfully it paid off,” Williams concedes humbly. Marble’s popularity with the nation’s indies is mainly down to “the price points, quality and exclusivity”, as Williams outlines, principles that both he and Paul have stuck to throughout the growth of their label, and which clearly resonate with retailers up and down the country. “Because we have such a strong wholesale background and have also run our own stores, we understand what >>>
40 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
PROFILE —
Crush retailers need. We’re not going into this just as brand owners who want to make money, we want to have a genuine partnership with our customers and meet their needs,” he says. The brand offers around 120-130 pieces in four colour options each, with knitwear at its core, though its coordinates, printed jerseys and jeans have also become a massive staple. The Marble style is chic, wearable and adaptable, with price points starting at £7.50 wholesale, and top ticket items coming in at around £30 – a very appealing pricing structure for many indies. “We are a commercial brand, that’s our USP and we are committed to that. Our prices and the quality we offer allow us to sit in a diversity of stores; in some we are the entrylevel brand to higher end labels, and in others, we are at the top end of their offer, because retailers can buy us how it suits their store and their customer base,” explains Williams. Asked the obvious question about brand adjacencies, Williams’ answer is disarmingly honest. “I wouldn’t have a clue, to tell the truth. I know according to the rules of marketing I should have a catalogue of brands to list, but we honestly don’t work like that. We never look at what other people do. We get the colours right, the quality right, the price right and the deliveries right, and that’s all that matters to us. Marble does what Marble does.” It’s an enviable position to be in and clearly one that works for the business, as Marble is increasingly expanding, particularly on an international scale. Three seasons ago the label made its first foray into overseas territories with the launch into Russia, and now it is stocked in 14 countries around the world, with a particular focus on Sweden, Finland, Germany, France, Russia and Canada. And whilst Williams is happy with his UK and Ireland network of stockists, he concedes that there are still geographical pockets where there is yet potential for further expansion. Growth may be accelerating – the company is about to open new headquarters four times its current size at its base in Glasgow to accommodate the expansion – but for Williams this is very much focused on the independent sector, with no plans to launch either
Marble retail or e-commerce, which should be music to retailers’ ears. “We’re very much committed to working with indies. We would find it very difficult to give exclusivity to huge store accounts, and we would most certainly not supply any of the discounters. It would undermine our customers and wouldn’t make financial sense. With 800 accounts worldwide, we are spreading our risk – if one of them goes, well there are plenty more and we haven’t lost a huge chunk of our business as would be the case if we were tied into huge deals,” says Williams. For a/w 14, Marble has rebranded its 70-piece collection of luxurious and indulgent faux fur coats and jackets as Crush, giving the line its own brand identity and allowing it to be targeted at existing and additional stockists, with wholesale prices £59 to £110. Williams is not ruling out any future extensions of product groups, but he stresses that the company is currently predominantly focusing on its geographical growth - “though we are always thinking of other things,” as he puts it. Six years down the line from taking that very first decision to sell his house, things have undeniably worked out well, but Williams admits that it’s been a steep learning curve for both him and Paul, despite their years of industry experience and the success they’ve had. “In the beginning, we thought that selling the merchandise would be the hardest part but, actually, that turned out to be what we know best. It was getting the samples made, in the right way, on time and getting them delivered on time that has been the biggest learning curve for us,” he says, but it’s pretty obvious that he’s enjoyed every step of the way. His biggest challenge looking ahead? “To increase turnover and maintain our growth, for sure,” he says. “We’ve been brave and aggressive, but also measured, so hopefully this is a good strategy for the future.”
42 WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk — FEBRUARY 2014
PROMOTION —
THE ESSENTIAL RESOURCE FOR THE WOMENSWEAR INDUSTRY. —
wwb-online.co.uk Wwb-online.co.uk is the essential free business tool, bringing you industry advice, up-to-the-minute news, insightful features and trend information at the click of a button. From the team behind WWB magazine, the website covers every aspect of the womenswear industry. Frequently updated news across a broad range of topics will help you keep your finger on the pulse, while a variety of unique content that complements WWB’s comprehensive industry and style reports brings you rounded, in-depth knowledge and information. Brand spotlights, short-order specials and trend overviews are just some of the must-read features, all of which will aid your buying decisions and help enhance your in-store offer. The Retail section provides further vital inspiration, covering everything from visual merchandising ideas to advice and suggestions from the brains behind some of the UK’s most successful independents. Articles in the People section focus on the movers and shakers across womenswear, to give you the inside track on what makes them tick and how they stay ahead of the game. —
MAKE WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK YOUR DAILY SOURCE OF ESSENTIAL FASHION INDUSTRY INFORMATION – IT’S ONLY A CLICK AWAY. — To advertise on wwb-online.co.uk call Sam on 01484 846069 or email sam@ras-publishing.com
NEWS Industry news that’s relevant to you, from new launches to trading predictions and business reports. — RETAIL Want to explore multi-channelling in order to drive sales, learn more about the latest market research or gain inspiration for visual merchandising? You’ll find it all here – and it could prove highly profitable. — BRANDS Useful profiles of familiar favourites and up-and-coming brands alike, along with broader features on their evolution, strategy and direction. — OPINION Read what the experts think about current and ongoing issues affecting the industry – their insights could prove invaluable to your business. — FEATURES Reports, interviews and brand profiles on the issues, industry figures and companies everyone wants to know about. — EVENTS As well as previews and reviews, wwb-online.co.uk will keep you informed about the essential dates for your diary. — BLOG WWB’s bloggers are passionate about the fashion industry and always have something interesting to say. Find out what’s getting them talking.
URBAN JUNGLE A mix of animal prints, camel tones and fur and leather textures take centre stage in contemporary womenswear for a/w 14. WWB captures the best looks.
Puffa coat: Latte, 0141 204 0699 / Leather trousers: Luisa Cerano, 020 7323 6101
Woolen coat: Coo, 020 7580 3202 / Metallic leggings: Luisa Cerano, 020 7323 6101 Fur collar: Hauber, 020 7323 6100 / Boots: Rocket Dog, 020 7380 8340
Camel puffa coat: Steilmann, 020 7291 0520 Sweat pants: Hauber, 020 7323 6100 Fur collar: Luisa Cerano, 020 7323 6101 Hat: JC, 0161 834 6686
Herringbone coat: Coo, 020 7580 3202 / Leather dress: James Lakeland, 020 7636 7130 Boots: Rocket Dog, 020 7380 8340 / Tights: Falke, 020 7836 0440
Polo neck and cardigan: Luisa Cerano, 020 7323 610 Animal-print skirt: Bitte Kai Rand, 07463 645670 Boots: Rocket Dog, 020 7380 8340 Bag: JC, 0161 834 6686
Biker jacket: Hauber, 020 7323 6100 / Check top: Luisa Cerano, 020 7323 6101 Dress (worn under top): James Lakeland, 020 7636 7130 / Boots: Rocket Dog, 020 7380 8340
Left: Shearling jacket: Hauber, 020 7323 6100 Geoprint dress: James Lakeland, 020 7636 7130 Boots: Rayne, 020 8445 3111 Tights: Falke, 020 7836 0440 — Right: Geoprint dress: James Lakeland, 020 7636 7130
Embellished top: Blank, 020 7739 6510 / Trousers: Hauber, 020 7323 6100 Bag: JC, 0161 834 6686 / Boots: Rocket Dog, 020 7380 8340
Fur jacket: James Lakeland, 020 7636 7130 / Animal skirt: James Lakeland, 020 7636 7130 White shirt: Peruzzi, 0035 314290900
Embellished jacket: Blank, 020 7739 6510 Print dress: Blank, 020 7739 6510 Cardigan: Hauber, 020 7323 6100 Tights: Falke, 020 7836 0440 Boots: Rocket Dog, 020 7380 8340
Coat: Marble, 0141 882 6743 / Dress with embellished collar: Coo, 020 7580 3202 Tights: Falke, 020 7836 0440 / Boots: Rocket Dog, 020 7380 8340
Gillet: Pomodoro, 020 8961 4000 / Camel shirt: Hauber, 020 7323 6100 Trousers: Hauber, 020 7323 6100 / Hat: Stylist’s own
Top and trousers: Bitte Kai Rand, 07463 645670
Faux-fur coat: Marble, 0141 882 6743 / Camel trousers: James Lakeland, 020 7636 7130
Boots: Rocket Dog, 020 7380 8340
Photographs: Darren Black, www.darrenblackphotography.com / Model: Sandra at PRM Agency, www.prm-agency.com Styling: Fran Lee, Production Element, www.productionelement.com / Hair and make-up: Charlotte Yeomans, www.charlotteyeomans.com
Danish Designer Outerwear www.loftfashion.dk
Includes some “must have” fabulous fun fur reversible styles. Sizes 8 to 30 Agent for the UK Amanda Knights Fashion Agencies Showroom: 1st Floor, 24 Dale Street, Manchester M1 1FY Tel: 0161 236 4455 Email: sales@knightsfashion.co.uk www.knightsfashion.co.uk Collection now showing in the Manchester Showroom up until 17 March Also showing at Moda - Stand J8
CJC
A NN B ALON MODA ITALIANA Specialists for the fuller figure
MODA UK, STAND G39 TEL: +44 (0) 161 428 0659 FAX: +44 (0) 161 491 0835 EMAIL: george@annbalon.com www.annbalon.com
63 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
PREVIEW —
AUTUMN/ WINTER 2014 AT MODA 16-18 FEBRUARY, NEC BIRMINGHAM
With its strongest line-up of new names to date, this season’s Moda is an essential event on the UK exhibition calendar, offering not only a well-edited fashion mix of ready-to-wear, accessories, footwear, lingerie, menswear and much more, but also functioning as a meeting hub for the industry, with a raft of networking opportunities and business seminars taking place during the exhibition. Catwalk shows throughout the three-day event bring the key trends across daywear, evening and occasionwear as well as lingerie to life, providing a strong overview of this season’s key trends and style directions, equipping retailers with useful guidance on this season’s buying essentials. WWB takes a look at the highlights from each sector of the show. — >>>
64 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
PREVIEW —
MODA WOMAN
EVA TRALALA I’CONA
PAUSE CAFÉ STAND F28 Pause Café’s collection is made up of quirky separates that can be mixed and matched to create an individual outfit. Dresses, tunics and jackets are key and come in a colour combination that is centred around red and black as well as a hint of yellow and orange. EVA TRALALA STAND F18 The new winter line from Eva Tralala is built around a wider variety of fabrics, though the brand’s signature boiled-wool coats and jackets are still centre pieces of the range. Separates and dresses are also available with an elegant colour scheme that is dominated by greys and blacks but features plenty of accents such as teal, mustard, red and green. LATTE STAND E15 Latte has become known for its edgy tops and knitwear at medium price points, with the collection showing a distinct signature vintage twist. A variety of yarns, textures and prints are key in the collection, which also sees the introduction of statement winter accessories for the first time, including beanie hats, scarves and jewellery. I’CONA STAND K14 Smart dresses, skinny trousers and figure-hugging tops are among the highlights at I’cona. This season’s colour scheme is dominated by black, forming the perfect backdrop for a range of party and evening pieces. ATELIER GARDEUR STAND I30 Slim five-pocket drainpipes in new tartans are a key direction at Atelier Gardeur, exuding a distinct Brit-chic vibe. Distressed effects feature heavily in the denim range, though clean looks also prevail.
ATELIER GARDEUR
PAUSE CAFÉ LATTE
Key names in mainstream womenswear come together at Moda Woman, providing a strong overview of this season’s style directions.
SEASALT
MARIE MERO
PREVIEW —
FRANK SAUL
TONI
ADINI
65 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
ADINI STAND H11 Inspired by the elegance and charm of timeless Parisian style, Adini’s collection features a range of cocoon coats and luxury knits for opulent chic. Decadent florals, smart mini prints and block-panelled dresses are among the key style characteristics. MARIE MERO STAND J38 Marie Mero’s collection boasts soft and warm colours, combining greys and blacks with white, camel, lava red and deep brown. Blue and pale pink also feature, and form the backdrop to clean shapes with straight and narrow silhouettes on trousers and wide skirt shapes key, retaining a feminine direction. SEASALT STAND I20 Seasalt has taken inspiration this season from the evocative and humorous writings of 50s writer Denys Val Baker, who lived in the far Western tip of Cornwall. Textures and colours are in keeping with the season and include cords, woven blends, peached cotton and cashmere. Pops of colour, zip trims and piping are also key features, sitting alongside floral motifs, line drawings and checks. TONI STAND J30 German trouser specialist Toni is returning with a vast range of shapes and styles. From drainpipes to classic five-pockets, the collection offers flattering cuts in a seasonal colour palette, with shades of grey among the highlights. FRANK SAUL STAND J40 Frank Saul’s a/w range offers early season deliveries in light weight knits and comfort stretch jersey tops, alongside a line of knitted jackets, wraps and cardigans in soft boucle yarns and marl twist. The colour scheme is focused around berry tones from rich plum to velvety burgundy, cobalt blues through to denim shades and classic black and white.
>>>
66 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
PREVIEW —
TARA VAO BIANCA
CRUSH STAND H10 Crush is a dedicated line of luxurious faux-fur coats and jackets, with over 70 styles to choose from, including on-trend jackets and gilets in a range of colours and finishes. The brand’s light-brown cocoon coat is among the highlights and on trend. TARA VAO STAND G7 Following a soft launch last season, Tara Vao is making a return to Moda for a/w 14 with a range of quirky and easy-to-wear separates and dresses. The brand offers a selection of light and fluid-stretch jerseys and faux-skin fabrics, with some wool fabrics, mixing prints and plains for a striking a/w 14 collection. POMODORO STAND I15 Eastern Promise is one of the trend stories at Pomodoro this season. Anchored in dark tones, there are playful pops of cerise and cobalt, while jersey is the go-to fabric for effortless style. Tunics, dresses and a selection of trousers, including wide-leg and cropped styles, are among the predicted bestsellers. BIANCA STAND I31 Leather jackets and leather-look trousers are among the on-trend highlights in Bianca’s collection, while knitwear, blazers, jackets and a range of jeans and trousers also feature. The colour scheme is based around blues, browns, metallics, black and white. SAINT JAMES STAND J31 French brand Saint James was established in Normandy in 1850 and is known for its maritime-oriented knitwear, which is among the key pieces in the collection. The range also includes a full ready-towear line of complementary pieces such as dresses, jackets, trousers and blouses.
SAINT JAMES
CRUSH POMODORO
MODA WOMAN
JAMES LAKELAND
STEILMANN
PREVIEW —
MARBLE
ELISA CAVALETTI
FABER
67 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
FABER STAND I28 Innovation is the leading theme at Faber this season, with innovative knitting techniques adding a new dimension to the collection. Look out for jacquards, intarsia and highly detailed adornments on each style. The brand is also launching its Best Comfort Effect knits – a collection of exclusive yarn with added Aloe Vera, Jojoba Oil and Vitamin E. STEILMANN STAND I10 A mix of materials features heavily at Steilmann this season. Boiled wool is combined with soft, wadded polyester in leather looks, while digital prints also make for eye-catching highlights. Look out for trend-led separates and outerwear in a colour palette that is dominated by greys and black, as well as white and creams. JAMES LAKELAND STAND E11 Key pieces at James Lakeland this season are its stand-out coats, available in block colours and also digital prints. Reversible soft slouchy knits, teamed with heavy stretch super-fit trousers are also among the central looks, while other hero pieces include a jersey big zip ponti sleeveless waistcoat. ELISA CAVALETTI STAND E10 Prints and a mix of materials are key at Elisa Cavaletti this season. The brand offers a full ready-towear collection with pieces that can be mixed and matched for an individual look. A subtle colour palette of creams, beiges, khakis and browns complements the range. MARBLE STAND H10 Marble’s fully co-ordinated line is based around quality knitwear available across a range of yarns, which have become the staple of the brand over the seasons. The collection also features an array of printed separates, jerseys, jeans, dresses and classic trousers, with a chic and feminine undertone but always wearable and easy to mix and match.
>>>
Group
Size range: 8-30 GODSKE KIRSTEN KROG DESIGN JORLI HABELLA ROBELL FRANDSEN OUTERWEAR TIA I’CONA Q NEEL QUÉ REFA THAT’S ME BY JAGRO —
Pure Olympia London 9-11 February Stand K106, K106 London Showroom also open Sunday 9th Feb 2014 Weekend of Pure. Moda Woman 16 February - 18 February 2014 NEC Birmingham Hall 18 - stand I 14 Dubin Showroom Fashion City from Wednesday 19 February 2014, with a Special Event on Sunday 23 February to Tuesday 25 February 2104. —
LONDON SHOWROOM Godske Group UK. Showroom: 65 Margaret Street, London W1W 8SP Tel: 0207 636 3063 Fax: 0207 636 3863 Email: pug@godske.com DUBLIN SHOWROOM Godske Group Ireland, Unit 5, Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24 Tel: 00353 1 4295042 Fax: 00353 1 4295043
Quality Luxury Heritage Made in Scotland
See us at Moda - Stand L51 T: 01450 363100 E: sales@hawickknitwear.com www.hawickknitwear.com/trade
72 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
PREVIEW —
MODA NEWCOMERS
IRELANDS EYE 3322
CATHERINE MALANDRINO STAND I38 US label Catherine Malandrino is the brainchild of the eponymous French designer, and is among the most successful labels in its native. The collection mixes genres and brings a softness to an urban wardrobe with a focus on craftsmanship, vivid colours and draping techniques that flatter the feminine form. IRELANDS EYE STAND K50 Hailing from Dublin, contemporary knitwear label Irelands Eye has expanded its collection for a/w 14 to include finer gauge wool cashmere pieces alongside luxurious cabled chunky wool cashmere sweaters and cardigans. A focus is on trans-seasonal styles, which can be worn from winter to spring. DERHY STAND F12 French brand Derhy’s philosophy is to combine creativity and originality, creating a style where each garment has its own personality. Building on directional designs, each piece can be adapted to the wearer’s individual style, with the collection offering plenty of choice to mix and match for contemporary looks. 3322 STAND F34 French brand 3322 is also making its UK debut at Moda this season, with a look that is bright, modern and versatile. Dresses and jackets are among the central pieces within the collection, providing day to evening dressing that is wearable and effortless. RINO & PELLE STAND J10 Dutch brand Rino & Pelle is making its first appearance at Moda with a range of outerwear classics reinvented with a modern twist. The label specialises in clever material mixes and textiles to create both iconic pieces and new, on-trend styles. Look out for pea coats and mixed yarn parkas, which are among the highlights.
RINO & PELLE
CATHERINE MALANDRINO DERHY
A raft of new faces are making their debut at Moda this season, covering a wide spectrum from trouser and knitwear specialists to contemporary ready-to-wear collections with versatile looks for day to evening.
DAMO
BRAX
PREVIEW —
MADELINE
LEO GUY
TAHARI
73 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
TAHARI STAND I38 Tahari is a versatile range of dresses that flatters a wide range of customer. From elegant shift dresses in this season’s top trend monochromes to printed tunics, an easy-to-wear jersey version and elegant day dresses, the range offers a vast selection of contemporary styles. BRAX STAND J28 German brand Brax is bringing its womenswear collection to Moda for the first time, having exhibited its menswear range over at Moda Gent for a number of years. The label’s a/w 14 range has been inspired by Britain, with the theme translated into checks and a royal punk theme, alongside more clean and classic styles. DAMO STAND F34 Outerwear specialist Damo is offering an elegant and feminine collection focusing on coats, jackets and accessories, often with the use of technical fabrics. The range consists of classic and traditional styles alongside more trend-led designs, with an up-to-date colour palette of royal blue, orange, red and green supporting the basic black options. LEO GUY STAND E12 An elegant range of sweaters, cardigans, twin-sets and dresses aimed at the fashion-conscious woman aged 30-plus will be presented by French brand Leo Guy, which is showing at Moda for the first time. MADELINE STAND F34 Spanish label Madeline is making its UK debut this season, with a collection that focuses on T-shirts, dresses and jackets for a feminine and youthful look. Black and red are among the dominating shades for a/w 14.
>>>
76 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
PREVIEW —
MODA ACCESSORIES
MISS SHORTHAIR
PEACH ACCESSORIES
LOVETT & CO
DENTS
ALICE HANNAH
ASHWOOD
From jewellery through handbags to hats, scarves and small leather goods, Moda Accessories has the perfect choice of add-on products to enhance your in-store offer. WWB takes its pick.
MISS SHORTHAIR STAND N41 Miss Shorthair is a small, Glasgow-based company specialising in scarves aimed at the boutique consumer. The designs cover a range of fashion trends from classic looks to urban and vintage and are created to suit a variety of occasions. PEACH ACCESSORIES STAND N39 New exhibitor Peach Accessories is set to unveil a collection of exclusive handbags and clutches. Highlights include diamante clasps, adjustable straps, bold floral prints and a trademark Peach badge. The brand’s vintage-inspired evening bags are embellished with pearls and crystals. LOVETT & CO STAND R69 Recalling a bygone era of style and sophistication, newcomer Lovett & Co’s latest range features vintage-inspired jewellery for the modern woman. Stand-out pieces include a hand-painted enamel and Swarovski crystal flower necklace and delicate earrings to match. DENTS STAND M11 Heritage glove specialist Dents returns to Moda Accessories with a vast choice of gloves and small leather goods in an autumnal colour palette. Prints and leather treatments are among the key features in the range. ALICE HANNAH STAND N50 Alice Hannah’s a/w 14 offer comprises four new trend groups. Featuring fur-trim hats, glove sets and fur stoles with diamante broaches, vintage-style Baby Doll is inspired by the secrets of a lady’s dressing room. Fun Alice Chic takes its cue from the 50s, while Pop Culture uses bold splashes of colour, kitsch jacquard fabric and star motifs. With its animal jacquards in forest colours, Future Folk borrows from ethnic embroidery, folk tales and Fair Isles.
JAYLEY
ZANDRA RHODES
LYDC
PIA ROSSINI
PREVIEW —
ASHWOOD STAND O8 Leather specialist Ashwood produces beautiful innovative designs combined with timeless shapes across bags, luggage, wallets and add-on products. Using selected tanned hides, each product has an individual character, while modern manufacturing techniques ensure a tailored finish. LYDC STAND N40 LYDC presents a diverse range of high-quality handbags this season. Animal prints are offset by bold splashes of neon and metalwork, making for a stylish, youthful collection. Expect oversized bags in an array of shapes. PIA ROSSINI STAND O10 Pia Rossini unveils its latest range of coordinating furs, leathers, scarves, knitwear, wraps, ponchos and hats this a/w 14. Available in vibrant colours, they have been designed to complement the brand’s a/w 14 bag collection. Highlights include luxurious fur hats, fur-trim gloves and a royal purple wrap. ZANDRA RHODES STAND N28 Making its Moda debut this season, Zandra Rhodes unveils a typically eclectic collection of handbags and clutches. Buyers can expect statement snake trims, quilting, signature prints, colour blocking and stud embellishments. The iconic label has even updated its vintage ranges, adding deco-inspired detailing. JAYLEY STAND M31, M29 Inspired by the Orient, JayLey’s silk devore ponchos and capes are a bold counterpoint to its delicate silk scarves and fur wraps. Highlights include luxurious materials, striking new designs and a dramatic colour palette, comprising greens, pinks, reds and blacks.
>>>
valerien-werbung.com
MODA UK NEC Birmingham Februar y 16th - 18th 2014 Booth: K 38 christa-probst-group.com
pomodoro AUTUMN 2014
Pure, Olympia, Stand L66, 9th - 11th February Simm, Madrid, Hall 14 Stand C09, 14th - 16th February Moda UK, NEC, Stand I15, 16th - 18th February Pomodoro Clothing Company Ltd Tel: +44 20 8961 4000 Email: info@pomodoroclothing.com www.pomodoroclothing.com
82 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
PREVIEW —
MODA LINGERIE
VAMP MAISON LEJABY
RAYA HANON STAND D59 Inspired by Bali, Raya Hanon’s latest swimwear collection evokes the exotic glamour of island living. Highlights include authentic fabrics, intricate beading and bold prints, with the brand having also made use of traditional Indonesian sewing techniques. VAMP STAND A29 Featuring nightwear and lingerie, Vamp’s a/w 14 collection is one of its most complete to date. New colours include freesia pink, yellow gold and cyclamen purple, while fabrics are skin-friendly and 100 per cent natural. The range is available in sizes 8-22. EVOLLOVE MODA BOUTIQUE STAND D50 Aimed at the fashion-conscious, fuller-busted woman, Evollove’s latest collection is cool, flirty and playful. The brand boldly reinvents traditional structured shapes, drawing on a vibrant colour palette of pinks, blues, purples and reds. Featuring soft lace and sheer fabrics, each ultra-feminine design is available in cup sizes D-G. MAISON LEJABY STAND B38 French lingerie specialist Maison Lejaby is celebrating its 130th anniversary this season with the introduction of new designs across its cores lines. Main range Maison Lejaby Lingerie will unveil three new styles – trend-led Valentina, daring Temptation and romantic Passion. Elixir is set to launch Attrape Couer – trimmed with Leavers Lace, it will be available in cup sizes C-H. LEPEL STAND B20 Lepel’s a/w 14 collection takes its inspiration from dark Russian folk tales. This theme has informed its romantic colour palette, which features opulent reds, vivid blues and soft, dusky pinks. Highlights include black embroidery, bow details and a Russian-inspired babushka print.
LEPEL
RAYA HANON EVOLLOVE
Womenswear stores looking to diversify their offer will find a fine selection of lingerie and nightwear styles at Moda Lingerie. WWB takes a look at the brands not to miss this season.
CHARNOS
TUTTI ROUGE
PREVIEW —
PLEASURE STATE
VANITY FAIR
FREYA
83 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
FREYA STAND C30 Freya unveils its leopard-print design, Deco Rebel, this season. Featuring neon accents and bow finishes, the seam-free, moulded plunge bra is a sexy addition to the Deco portfolio. The brand is also set to launch its supportive crop-top sports bra, which underwent revolutionary testing at the University of Portsmouth. TUTTI ROUGE MODA BOUTIQUE STAND D50 Dubbed Carpe Diem (and Love the Night!), Tutti Rouge’s a/w 14 collection features an all-new line-up of debutantes. Highlights include liberty blue mesh balconette Eliza, pink satin bra Kitty and rouge and noir animal print Mercy, which can be teamed with a retro mini-brief or short. Much-loved styles Liliana, Nichole and Beatrice will also be returning for the new season. CHARNOS STAND B20 Building on proven shapes and styles, Charnos has expanded its size range for a/w 14. Key lines are now available in 30 backs and cup sizes A-J. The collection’s romantic colour palette comprises reds, magentas and deep purples, complemented by floral detailing and ontrend lace. VANITY FAIR STAND D10 Vanity Fair’s new European line has been designed with the needs of the modern woman in mind. It consists of six lines – sumptuously comfortable Nothing, lace-lined Smart, polka-dot print Melodie, eye-catching Feminissime, body-sculpting Perfect and second-skin brief collection Mes Vanities. Its colour palette features subtle powder tones, deep midnightblues and peony reds. PLEASURE STATE MODA BOUTIQUE STAND D50 Pleasure State’s a/w 14 range is a seamless marriage of style and technology. Featuring Swarovski crystal buckles and Italian lace, it aims to make women feel sexy, confident and seductive.
>>>
86 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
PREVIEW —
MODA FOOTWEAR
ROCKET DOG
SOREL
CAPRICE
COTSWOLD
CHATHAM
WWB takes its pick of the highlights at this edition of the UK’s biggest footwear event, which once again brings together the cream of domestic and international shoe brands.
COTSWOLD STAND Q39 Inspired by nature, Cotswold’s latest collection features practical footwear for the fashion-conscious woman. Highlights include knee-high leather Wellingtons with adjustable buckle tabs, and a lace-up wedge heel boot in brown, black or purple suede. Ergonomically designed, the latter is both waterproof and breathable. CHATHAM STAND S9 Chatham’s a/w 14 offering is classic, functional and thoroughly British. The range includes loafers, brogues and Chelsea boots in top-quality leather. Its colour palette is a seasonal affair, comprising browns, tans, navies, brandies and reds. SOREL STAND V4 Marrying style and functionality, Sorel’s latest collection is its most wearable yet. Key pieces include the suede leather Campus ankle boot, quilted midcalf boot the Campus Tall, and the Slimboot, a sleek riding boot with detailed buckle hardware. Its warm colour palette is complemented by premium materials, from leather to wool blanket knits and felt. ROCKET DOG STAND W10 Designed with the theme Rebellious Romance in mind, Rocket Dog’s a/w 14 line features a range of patterns and textures. Camo, tartans, floral and leopard print figure heavily, while aggressive styling details are juxtaposed with fun linings. Punctuated with black, its colour palette encompasses tonal greys and varied rich browns. CAPRICE STAND R10 This season, footwear specialist Caprice is set to let its firstclass materials do the talking. Buyers can expect smooth leather, top-quality Nubuck, distinctive finishes and reptile prints. Each shoe features patented On Air technology, guaranteeing wearability and comfort.
87 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
JOULES
CARA
LISA KAY
BUTTERFLY TWISTS
GEOX
PREVIEW —
GEOX STAND U9 Carrying the brand into a/w 14, Geox’s latest collection comprises leather boots, suede booties and colourful hitops. Highlights include a basketball-inspired design, featuring metal inserts and chrome applications. Crafted from soft suede, the style is available in stone grey, dusty pink and red. BUTTERFLY TWISTS STAND Y4 Masculine meets feminine in Butterfly Twists’ a/w 14 collection. Its foldable pumps come in an array of colours and prints, from uniform greys and blacks to rich oxbloods, metallics, leopard print and tartans. Each insole is lined with breathable fabric and soft, cushioning memory foam. JOULES STAND SE21 Joules unveils its most colourful and comprehensive footwear collection to date this season. Buyers can expect English country heritage with a modern twist – think bright brogues, ballet pumps, leather Chelsea boots and patent loafers. The brand’s classic Wellingtons come in hand-drawn, country inspired prints. LISA KAY STAND T10 Lisa Kay returns to Moda with a footwear collection crafted from Italian calf-leather, soft suedes and glittering fabrics. Berry and bold jewel tones are key, with highlight colours including peacock blue, peony pink, ruby red, black and navy. Knee-high boots have elastic panels for the perfect fit, while ankle boots feature block heels and internal platforms. CARA STAND S18 New to Moda this a/w 14, Cara’s Italian shoes are crafted with the British foot firmly in mind. An edgy black biker boot numbers among the collection’s key pieces. With its on trend cut-out work and heavy silver buckles, the brand looks set to take the show by storm.
>>>
88 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
PREVIEW —
WHAT’S ON AT MODA Make sure you’ve registered for the event of the season, as Moda prepares for even more live debates, fresh new brands, seminars to inspire and catwalks providing the best overview of this season hottest trends. DON’T MISS THE BIG LIVE DEBATES
LIGHTS, CATWALK, ACTION
Mon 17 Feb, Hall 17, 10:45 – Big Live Womenswear Debate Mon 17 Feb, Hall 17, 13:00 – Big Live Lingerie Debate
Moda has two catwalk theatres offering daily inspiration for every sector, and this season we’re bringing you even closer to the action!
Moda’s Big Live Debate series returns this season bigger and better with the introduction of a brand new Footwear Debate. Join in with the discussions that could affect your business, or just take a seat and listen to your peers offering an insight into current hot topics from within your sector. The menswear and footwear sectors will also host debates in Hall 20 on the same day at 12.00 and 15:00 respectively.
The Fashion Association of Britain (FAB) will once again host its Fab Lounge in Moda Woman. FAB will also lead a seminar on the latest tool to galvanise the high street and marry e-commerce with local retailers and produce, so make sure you’re in Hall 17 at 14:15 to find out more about MyHigh.st.
MODA ON THE MOVE
PARTY AT THE PUNCHBOWL Join us on Monday 17 February at the Punchbowl in nearby Lapworth – a perfect opportunity for brands and buyers to mix in a relaxed setting. To reserve your tickets call 01484 846069 or email caroline@moda-uk.co.uk.
Don’t forget to download the Moda Events app and make sure you stay ahead of the game of what to do and see at Moda.
FREE BUSINESS ADVICE With more than 25 debates and seminars taking place across the duration of show, Moda offers you the perfect opportunity to hear expert advice on the latest innovations in retail and get the inside story of some of the biggest successes in independent fashion. See the Moda website or app for a full schedule.
THE IMPORTANCE OF BLOGGING: Jonny Ross, Jonny Ross Consultancy Sunday 16 February 12:00 Hall 17 14:15 Hall 20 17:00 Hall 17 Lingerie & Swimwear Retail Theatre
Blogging is key to any good digital strategy and how it links in with an organisation’s wider PR and communications plan. Jonny will give hints and tips on how to improve your Google rankings, as well as using Facebook and Twitter to build relationships and win new business.
GROW YOUR BUSINESS WITH HELP, FUNDING AND INVESTMENT: Warren Knight, CEO, Gloople Tuesday 18 February 13:00 Hall 17
Only 50 per cent of new businesses survive year one, so make sure you’re one of them. Warren will take you through a step-by-step process from start-up to growth and getting investment, including all the pitfalls and challenges from any retail business.
GETTING THE BEST FROM E-COMMERCE AND THE WEB: David Abbott, director, Insight Best Practice (BP) Tuesday 18 February 11:00 Hall 17 13:00 Hall 17 Lingerie & Swimwear Retail Theatre
Are you losing out to online competition? Online sales are growing faster than high-street sales, and nearly all customers who shop locally do some online research first. David will explore factors such as price relativity and the power of zero to give you ideas to apply in your own businesses.
GETTING YOUR BUSINESS MOBILE: Martin O’Toole, Managing director, Fist of Fury Sunday 16 February 14:00 Hall 17 Lingerie & Swimwear Retail Theatre 16:45 Hall 17
Returning to Moda for his second year, Martin will discuss changes in consumer behaviour – and the importance of mobile marketing as a result – in today’s marketplace.
MARKETING MADE SIMPLE! Simon Shepherd, Client Marketing Ltd Monday 17 February 12:15 Hall 17
Simon will discuss the marketing of your business in simple terms. He will give you an insight into how to write and deliver a marketing plan while addressing any fundamental questions you may wish to put to him, so get your thinking caps on!
GETTING SALES WITH SOCIAL MEDIA AND ONLINE MARKETING: Warren Knight, CEO, Gloople Tuesday 18 February 10:00 Hall 17 Lingerie & Swimwear Retail Theatre
Warren will talk you through the four core areas behind any online success as well as the importance of creating great content and building online relationships to get sales.
10 STEPS TO VISUAL RETAIL SUCCESS: Eve Reid, director & founder, Metamorphosis Group Monday 17 February 11:45 Hall 17 (Retail Theatre) 15:00 Hall 17
In the current climate, making a good first impression has never been so important on the high street. Eve will help you discover the secret to maximising your sales through the art of visual merchandising in this dynamic and inspirational seminar.
CATWALK SCHEDULE HALL 17 Sunday 17 February 10.00 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 11.15 Fashion catwalk 12.45 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 13.30 Fashion catwalk 15.00 Evening & occasionwear catwalk 16.00 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 18.00 Fashion catwalk & drinks Monday 18 February 10.00 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 11.00 Fashion catwalk 13.00 Evening & occasionwear catwalk 14.00 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 16.00 Fashion catwalk 17.00 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk Tuesday 19 February 10.00 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 12.00 Fashion catwalk 13.45 Evening & occasionwear catwalk 14.30 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk HALL 20 Sunday 17 February 10.00 Urban & contemporary catwalk 11.15 Tailoring & lifestyle catwalk 12.45 Footwear & accessories catwalk 13.30 Urban & contemporary catwalk 15.00 Tailoring & lifestyle catwalk 16.00 Footwear & accessories catwalk 18.00 Urban & contemporary catwalk & drinks Monday 18 February 10.00 Tailoring & lifestyle catwalk 11.00 Footwear & accessories catwalk 13.00 Urban & contemporary catwalk 14.00 Tailoring & lifestyle catwalk 16.00 Footwear & accessories catwalk 17.00 Urban & contemporary catwalk Tuesday 19 February 10.00 Urban & contemporary catwalk 12.00 Tailoring & lifestyle catwalk 13.45 Footwear & accessories catwalk
91 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
EVENING & OCCASIONWEAR —
NIGHT AND DAY AUTUMN/WINTER 2014 EVENING AND OCCASIONWEAR TRENDS. —
John Charles
>>>
92 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
EVENING & OCCASIONWEAR —
Personal Choice Anoola
SHOWING AT MODA — Anoola I50 Irresistible F39 Linea Raffaelli G38 —
Irresistable
Precious Formals
Trend Crystal Breeze
BLUSH HOUR From the prettiest pales to the hottest fuchsia, fashion-forward pinks are the perfect way to brighten up a dull winter’s day. The most flattering of palettes blooms across a variety of styles, from sugary sweet confections to sassy, grown-up pieces. —
Linea Raffaelli
John Charles
Presen
93 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
EVENING & OCCASIONWEAR —
Mireia
Ann Balon
Trend
GREY AREA Elegant grey comes into its own this season with an effortlessly luxurious, modern charm. The eminently wearable hue crosses the spectrum, from soft dove through cloud to deep charcoal, showing its versatility in a plethora of styles including crisp suiting and delicate gowns. — John Charles
SHOWING AT MODA — Ann Balon G39 Dress Code H38 John Charles H50 —
Linea Raffaelli
Gina Bacconi
Irresistable
Dress Code
>>>
94 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
EVENING & OCCASIONWEAR —
Trend
BLACK LACE Black lace feels delightfully decadent for autumn/winter, adding a dark, often romantic edge to both fluid pieces and structured tailoring. Appearing as contrast trims, in soft layers or as panels for a glimpse of skin, this timeless classic has never been more interesting. —
Gina Bacconi
Renata
95 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
EVENING & OCCASIONWEAR —
Gloria Estelles
Presen
SHOWING AT MODA — Daniella H51 Dynasty G50 Loré H49 —
Dynasty
Ruby Ray
Daniella
Pretty Maids
Lore
Carmen Melero
>>>
96 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
EVENING & OCCASIONWEAR —
John Charles
Trend
RAZZLE DAZZLE This season’s embellishments have left all subtlety and delicate understatement behind, with eveningwear pieces that ooze luxury and glamour with full-on, all-over sparkle and shine. Silhouettes are fitted and shapes are simple, with intricate beading, shimmering fabrics and sequins providing the drama. —
Gina Bacconi
SHOWING AT MODA
Precious Formals
— Loré H49 Mascara I40 —
Mascara
Loré
Eternity Prom
97 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
EVENING & OCCASIONWEAR —
SHOWING AT MODA — Carla Ruiz H39 Renata H51 Michaela Louisa G30 —
John Charles
Gina Bacconi
Trend
LINEAR EQUATION Graphic stripes walk the line from casualwear to evening and occasionwear this season, bringing with them an air of contemporary, youthful elegance. Streamlined shapes create the backdrop for a variety of slick bands – fine or bold, horizontal or diagonal – for striking visual effect. —
Carla Ruiz
Ruby Ray
Joseph Ribkoff
Renata
Michaela Louisa
98 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
REVIEW —
SCOOP INTERNATIONAL IO IONAL With another successful edition under its belt, boutique trade show Scoop International provided a platform for up-and-coming designers, niche labels and sought-after international names across its two venues, the Saatchi Gallery in Chelsea and Phillips in Victoria. WWB picks its highlights. —
99 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
REVIEW —
GLOVERALL In addition to Gloverall’s core outerwear pieces, which once again impressed with classic heritage chic, it was the brand’s knitwear pieces that ticked all the boxes for understated style and wearability.
JIYA JEWELLERY Translated as “little piece of my heart”, Jiya Jewellery offered dainty, beach-inspired bracelets in a range of neon colours and sterling silver combinations. Wearing multiple bracelets together created the most eye-catching effects.
PARKA LONDON UK label Parka London has only been going for a couple of seasons, but has already become a staple brand for relaxed and understated outerwear. Among the highlights in the range was this classic coat.
DES PETITS HAUTS This slogan tee and cardi combo was among the bestsellers at Des Petits Hauts, thanks to its quirky message and subtle pastel shade of grey, which was on trend and versatile.
ALEXIA Vivid graphics dominated at scarf specialist Alexia, which returned with a new line of XL scarves and wraps perfect for wrapping up in. Mixing accent brights with staple blacks, the range was individual while also referencing key trends of the season.
SELECTED FEMME Effortless chic was also the motto at Selected Femme, where trends such as tartan and woodland prints were referenced across the collection. This XL blazer was among the bestsellers.
LABO ART Italian brand Labo Art specialises in minimalist and über clean basics made from highest quality jersey and inspired by architectural design. This peach-coloured cardigan was among the signature pieces.
JOHANNA KONANZ Johanna Konanz brought a colourful and diverse range of handbags and small leather goods to the show, all made from high quality exotic leathers – chic and yet practical must-haves.
MELISSA Rubber shoe brand Melissa presented its latest collection, which also included another season of its super successful collaboration with Vivienne Westwood. These cute tartan ballerinas stood out.
MARY GRANT Irish designer Mary Grant marked her return to wholesale at Scoop, bringing with her a core capsule range of cashmere knits, wraps and scarves, which are some of the highlights of the collection.
SAND Sand offered another masterclass in Danish chic, with a diverse collection that referenced all key trends while also staying true to its elegant and understated house style. Its cropped jacket was just one of the key pieces in the range.
EILEEN FISHER US label Eileen Fisher presented another slick and streamlined collection, sticking to its signature of predominantly black pieces. A play with textures, finishes, detailing and surface interest made sure the collection had plenty of appeal.
>>>
100 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
REVIEW —
INGENIOUS Highlights at Ingenious Jewellery included a range of cute motif necklaces and bangles, ranging from dainty to more chunky and eye-catching versions.
HAUBER Bomber jackets are one of the key trends coming through for a/w 14, and Hauber’s floral version was one of the strongest styles available, with a cute print to boot.
LOULOU ET TU Lithuanian label Loulou et Tu was among the Scoop newcomers, and presented a chic and elegant collection of perfectly tailored pieces, from classic shift dresses made from high-quality materials to this stylish cape coat.
DAY BIRGER ET MIKKELSEN This lemon cocoon coat by Danish fashion house Day Birger et Mikkelsen was one of WWB’s favourites at the show, providing a welcome pop of colour and stylish cover-up for cold winter days.
EDWARD ACHOUR French brand Edward Achour made its Scoop debut, bringing typically elegant Parisian style to London. This coral coat with floral brooch fastenings was among the signature pieces of the season.
MELISSA CURRY Chunky statement jewellery came from Melissa Curry. The accessory brand picked up on the still strong monochrome trend whilst also referencing classic metallics.
PYRUS This metallic bomber jacket was the hero piece at Pyrus, generating attention from buyers and press alike – a definite show stopper for a/w 14.
KUDIBAL Danish brand Kudibal’s highlight pieces included printed stretch silk blouses and tunics, which sat alongside a vast range of beautiful scarves and wool and cashmere pieces.
TRACY NEULS Footwear designer Tracy Neuls stayed true to her signature of unusual toe and heel shapes, borrowing heavily from the world of sculpture. Highlights included this cute ankle boot, perfect to be dressed up or down.
AGE OF REASON Accessory brand Age of Reason offered an array of beautifully printed silk scarves, with each graphic inspired by art work. A harmonious colour scheme of blues, aquas and subtle pinks blended together perfectly.
FAIRLY Italian brand Fairly was among the newcomers to Scoop and made an instant impact with its glamorous and yet understated range. This black and blue fur jacket stood out among a plethora of already strong items.
CHARLIE JADE US short-order label Charlie Jade offered a range of transseasonal styles perfect for summer holidays or winter cruises, with its tunics and printed maxi dresses among the particular bestsellers.
Garments that won’t hang about. The steamer that will.
For more information Tel: 020 8417 0660
www.propress.co.uk
102 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
REVIEW —
BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN THE COLOUR SCHEMES IN A/W 14’S STREETWEAR MAY HAVE BEEN A SOMBRE AFFAIR, BUT THAT WAS NOT REFLECTED DURING THE SHOW ITSELF, WITH BRANDS PRESENTING COMMERCIAL COLLECTIONS AND SALEABLE TRENDS. WWB WANDERED THE AISLES OF TEMPELHOF AIRPORT TO SUM UP SOME OF THE KEY HIGHLIGHTS. — BENCH
CAMEL ACTIVE
ELEVEN PARIS
Multi-purpose, functional clothing was at the forefront at Bench, which made a return to the show after an absence of two seasons. Outerwear was key, with the brand presenting a range of parkas, anoraks and jackets made from traditional cloths and high-performance fibres. Colours were centred on greys, khakis and subtle pastel accents. —
Womenswear at Camel Active was focused on functional outerwear, with the key direction based on fabric mixes, subtle fibre treatments and an overall cleaner look with more pared-down detailing. Boyfriend styles sat alongside classic trend coats and field jackets through to oversized parkas. Goretex membranes, padding and quilting were also key characteristics. —
Wearable wardrobe staples could be found at Eleven Paris, but always with a contemporary and on-trend twist. Highlights included biker jackets in a material mix of wool and leather, cosy cocoon coats, chunky knits and printed tunics, all kept in a dark colour scheme of blacks and greys, with occasional colour pops of red. —
103 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
REVIEW —
GLOVERALL
TIMBERLAND
UTTAM
YUMI
British heritage brand Gloverall once again presented its iconic outerwear pieces at the show, ranging from classic parkas and duffle coats to more feminine capes. Its knitwear has become a big focus this season, with chunky knits, oversized boyfriend styles and unisex pieces key. The label’s tartan shirts were also among the highlights, stepping up the brand’s on-trend credentials. —
Timberland’s apparel line takes the wearer from the city to the countryside, so functionality and versatility were evidently key. But the brand still struck a balance between just enough practical features and remaining feminine, and its camel biker jacket was one of the best examples of styles that can be dressed up or down. Other highlights included cosy anoraks and quilted jackets. —
Prints took centre stage at Uttam, and were used to best effect on the brand’s staple pieces such as dresses, where the variety of graphics shone through. From classic florals through abstract graphics to digital prints, the range was vast and eclectic, but always with the label’s twist. Knitwear, however, was also strong this season, with skirt and sweater combos particularly on-trend. —
Over at Yumi, the collection once again interpreted key catwalk trends for the young fashion market, however remaining true to its quirky and commercial signature. Contrasting prints were teamed together, while a directional twist came from new fabric treatments such as this eye-catching metallic rain coat. Checks and tartans also emerged as key directions, giving a distinct Brit chic vibe. —
104 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
EXPERTS —
ADVICE Industry experts answer your retail questions —
FORCE MAJEURE – A MEANS OF PROTECTION? News media reports draw attention to a fast-approaching energy gap. Within the lifetime of the current parliament, the UK could face a switch-off in electricity supply. Indeed, last winter the UK’s gas stocks were down to just a few days. Energy hardship for many beckons. But for businesses, the result is likely to be that many commercial contracts will not be performed. The consequences of non-performance will depend on what the contract does or does not say. Many commercial agreements incorporate a specific clause, designed to apply where contractual performance has become impossible because of circumstances that were not envisaged by the parties and are outside their control. Typically a provision of this nature is known as a “force majeure clause”. Usually a well-drafted clause will set out a series of force majeure events. It will also state the consequences of such an event occurring. Often the clause will refer to Acts of God. What is less clear is what happens if an Act of God is defined as “including fire, flood, earthquake, storm, hurricane or other natural disaster”. To what extent is “other natural disaster” to be interpreted by reference to the specific Acts of God that are listed before it? Usually force majeure clauses will provide for the suspension of obligations during the period of the force majeure event. If it continues beyond a specific time, it is usual for the clause to provide for the contract to be cancelled. Most importantly is the question of the obligation of the party subject to the force majeure event to compensate the other party. Given the nature of the force majeure clause, the clause should state that the party suffering the event is not liable to compensate the other party. When a particular event occurs, it is understandable that the parties will seek to determine whether it is covered by the force majeure clause. However, this is only part of the story so far that it is necessary for the clause to have been properly incorporated into the contract in the first place. If it has not been, the clause will be of no value whatsoever. A clause will only be incorporated if it is brought to the attention of the other party at the time the contract is made. Despite belief to the contrary, it is not incorporated into a contract if it appears only on the reverse of an invoice. In such a situation the clause will not be worth the paper it is written on. It is possible to see periodic fuel blockades, acts of terrorism and transport strikes as a series of unrelated direct acts or demonstrations taken by different groups. It is likely that these actions will grow in number and force irrespective of whether or not they are supplemented by Acts of God. As such, the question is whether or not you want your contracts to be covered in such situations? —
Stephen Sidkin is a partner in Fox Williams LLP (www.agentlaw.co.uk, www.fashionlaw.co.uk)
HOW CAN I ENSURE MY STORE IS PROTECTED FROM THEFT AND LOSS? Security and merchandising technology play a key role. However, there are also a number of potentially underestimated areas. Firstly, and most importantly, we must look at merchandise, both in terms of its availability for shoppers, but also its accessibility to shoplifters. Products on display are great news for the consumer, who wants to physically examine a product before making a purchase, but it’s also handy for the shoplifter looking for an opportunity to steal. Fortunately, there is technology available that allows stores to keep their products on display without compromising the customer experience or risking the losses associated with shrinkage. For fashion or apparel retailers, security tags are available that have been designed to attach directly onto small, expensive items. They are discreet and virtually invisible to shoppers and, when used in conjunction with security antennas, are perfect for raising the alarm when a shoplifter is about to leave a store with the stolen item. They are ideal when it comes to protecting a smaller, boutique-type store, where aesthetics are key, as the store design can remain virtually undisturbed and merchandise can be left on display. In addition to physical deterrents, there are also a number of potentially underestimated techniques which, when combined with other systems, have proven to deliver returns time and time again. At the heart of the issue is the need for a company wide anti-theft culture. Everyone in an organisation needs to be on board with the concept of loss prevention and understand the role they play in helping to combat the problem. Staff also need to receive frequent training to ensure they are equipped to deal with potential theft incidents before they occur. —
Neil Matthews, vice president, Checkpoint Systems
106 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
RETAIL DIARY People often imagine that February is a peak trading month for lingerie boutiques such as Loula but, as the suppliers have always told me, Valentine’s Day is never the big deal for us that some might imagine it to be. — I think a lot of young men find it more reassuring to shop for gifts in a large department store and feel slightly uncomfortable in a small boutique full of lingerie! Gift vouchers are an easier option for many men in this respect and we’ve done well this past season in that regard. Nightwear and leisurewear – which I’ve been expanding on in the past six months – are fantastic gifts since they’re sized in small, medium and large which has far less room for error. Generally speaking, I’ve noticed that the top-end ranges such as Aubade have been doing less well, compared to the mid-range brands such as B Tempted and Wacoal. It would seem that the £40-50 price point is the optimum for our customer and that anything approaching £90 (the average cost of an Aubade bra) is now just beyond the limit. Deliveries have been a big issue for me this year. Ordering for December delivery in July is always tricky, but I’ve been especially let down by some of my suppliers this year. It’s a question of communication at the end of the day. In one instance, I ordered six pieces and received one at the start of December. They were unable to guarantee when the balance would arrive. The rest of my order arrived on 9th January, which was obviously too late for the Christmas trading period. I sent the lot back but felt that I could have protected myself against the shortfall or made alternative plans had I been informed. I find that Panache is exceptional in terms of customer service. They always tell me straightaway whether or not something will be available in-season and when it will be delivered. It’s a natural product of the retail cycle that if the supplier can keep me well-informed, I can keep my customers informed. Communication is the key. Lyn Wiltshire owns Loula Lingerie in Leigh-on-Sea and is a committee member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB) www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk
FORUM —
RETAIL FORUM
The latest news from the industry —
BLACK WHITE DENIM LAUNCHES OWN LABEL
SOCIAL MEDIA SITE FOR CARNABY STREET Carnaby Street, home to some key brands in fashion retail, has launched a fully integrated social media website, Carnaby.co.uk. The online concept features fashion, lifestyle and food and includes a micro-platform for brands and independent shoppers. Consumers can engage in real-time interactions with Carnaby’s shops and restaurants while browsing the latest news and events, promotions, prize draws and store information. Over 200 brands, including Diesel, Eleven Paris and Lyle & Scott, are integrated into the website, with both brands and shoppers encouraged to connect with Carnaby via #Carnaby and share information and comments on products, launches, new collections and experiential events. —
Cheshire indie Black White Denim has launched its first eponymous own-label collection of premium basics, designed by owner Jo Davies and handcrafted in England. The capsule range comprises eight styles of cotton and jersey tops and bottoms, all available predominantly in the store’s signature black and white. The capsule launch is the brand’s first foray into own-label, with expansion into a full Black White Denim ready-to-wear range, which will include tailoring, outerwear, luxe knitwear and denim, earmarked for the next stage of investment. The line will be initially stocked in the Black White Denim store in Wilmslow, as well as in handpicked accounts, including Pixie in Hale and Marianna Boutique in Ipswich, who will be retailing the range online and in-store. Davies is looking to add a further four UK stockists for the first season. —
107 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
FORUM —
WHAT IS YOUR BUSINESS RESOLUTION FOR 2014? —
BASLER OPENS STORE IN ABU DHABI German brand Basler opened a store in Abu Dhabi, UAE, last month, the first outlet to utilise its new interior design concept. The shop is centrally located in the World Trade Center Abu Dhabi, next to the VIP entrance on the ground floor and taking up 162 sqm of floor space. The interior design features modern and sophisticated materials such as oak herringbone parquet as well as high-quality carpets in warm colours, giving the new interior design a state-of-the-art look with a hint of extravagance. Basler operates around 350 mono-stores in 23 countries. —
BOX BOUTIQUE POPS UP Concept store the Box Boutique may have its permanent home on London’s Maddox Street, but that’s not preventing the retailer popping up on Draycott Avenue, too, where it will reside until August. There is an array of high-fashion brands to look at, with Shourouk jewellery, Minimale Animale Swimwear, Ruthie Davis Footwear mixed up with exclusive head phones and the most unusual salt and pepper shakers around. —
MY FAVOURITE SHOP... CHATTERTONS by Daniele Merendelli, Brand Manager for High at Fourmarketing
Chattertons Stores in Old Amersham, Bucks; Barnes; Southwold; Woodbridge; Cambridge Established: 1992 Owner: Rebecca Cargill, ne Chatterton Brands: Marc by Marc Jacobs, DKNY, High, Lungta de Fancy, Goat “There is always a warm smile welcoming you to this stylish environment. The friendly sales assistants are knowledgeable and passionate, and customers will find a peaceful place to pick amazing pieces from beautiful collections. You can purchase the practical, the elegant, the different and quirky, the romantic and ethereal. The flawless taste of the owners shines through the entire store. There is always something new from your favourite brands as well as accessorises to complete your new look.” —
VICTORIA DENNIS “We want to move co-manager, Mousetrap, forward, and stay one step ahead of the Sevenoaks competition. We celebrated our 25th birthday last May; we’ve been through three recessions, and always buy accordingly. We’ll ensure the majority of our short-order labels aren’t available on the internet. It keeps things exclusive.” — YVETTE DAVIES Thirty Three Boutique, Lymington
“I want to be more efficient with systems, and to keep a closer eye on outgoings. Whether it’s money spent on photographs for our website, how many staff hours we’re paying, or even how much we’re spending on window-cleaning. I hope it will really improve our bottom-line profit.” —
SUZANNE TEMPLE “My business resolution owner, Blue, Cheltenham is to be a lot more proactive and get our website working better. We’re trying to reach out to more people all the time, and look for different ways to do so. We’ve got quite a few niche brands and I think, in this day and age, you really need to have an online presence.” — CHERRY SAVIDGE “I’ve resolved to stock owner, Cherry Savidge’s, less, sell more and improve my margins. Hereford I’ll try to buy right, so I don’t have to cut my margins when I have my sale. Anyone can sell things during the sale, but it’s getting it sold before that really counts.” —
108 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
DIRECTORY —
CARRIER BAGS
HEADWEAR
RAILS
WANTED
GARMENT STANDS
Distributed by: Arctic Fox Unit 22, Watford Metro Centre, Tolpits Lane, Watford, Herts WD18 9UN Tel: 01923 210646 Email: info@bullseyeinternation.co.uk
SHOWCASES
MANNEQUINS
STEAMERS AND IRONS
HAT BOXES
To advertise please call Sam on
To advertise please call Sam on
01484 846069
01484 846069
or email sam@ras-publishing.com
or email sam@ras-publishing.com
109 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
DIRECTORY —
NAMES AND NUMBERS Accessories by Park Lane 01423 866990 www.parklaneonline.com Adini 020 8560 2323 www.adini.co.uk Alexia 07956 585627 www.alexiafashion.co.uk Atelier Gardeur 0049 52413076194 www.gardeur.de Bianca 020 7580 0085 www.bianca.de Bitte Kai Rand 07463 645670 www.bittekairand.com Blank 020 7739 6510 www.bl-nk.co.uk Carmen Melero 020 7636 7077 www.carmenmelero.com Coo 020 7580 3202 www.apltcollections.co.uk Dante 01260 226588 Des Petits Hauts 0033 177455562 www.despetitshauts.com Dynasty 020 8736 0200 www.dynastyuk.co.uk Effusive 0035 1253913424 www.effusive.pt Elisa Cavaletti 07876 333397 www.elisacavaletti.com Eva Tralala 01625 533958 www.clamorfashion.com Faber 020 7636 9140 www.faberknitwear.de Freya 01536 764376 www.eveden.com Gelco 020 7580 3202 www.gelco.de Gina Bacconi 020 8438 2000 www.shubette.com Hauber 020 7323 6100 www.hauber.de JC 0161 834 6686 Joules 01854 435229 www.joules.com John Charles 020 8888 8833 www.johncharles.co.uk Kat & Bee 07958 123344 www.katandbee.com James Lakeland 020 7636 7130 www.jameslakeland.net L’Atelier 020 8965 1522 Latte 0141 204 0699 www.latteclothing.com Lisa Kay 01923 800081 www.lisakayshoes.com Luisa Cerano 020 7323 6101 www.luisacerano.com Maison Olivia 0039 236758398 www.maisonolivia.it Marble 029 2066 4661 www.marblefashions.co.uk Marie Mero 0032 93741171 www.mariemero.eu Mascara 020 8965 1522 Michaela Louisa 020 8888 7000 www.michaelalouisa.com Pause Café 01606 883604 Pia Rossini 028 9146 7999 www.piarossini.com Pomodoro 020 8961 4000 www.pomodoroclothing.com Rayne 020 8445 3111 Rocket Dog 020 7380 8340 www.rocketdog.co.uk Ronen Chen 020 7402 5292 www.ronenchenstoreuk.com Ruby Ray www.rubyray.com Seasalt 01326 640377 www.seasaltcornwal.co.uk Steilmann 020 7291 0522 www.steilmann.com Toni 0141 204 0699 www.toni-fashion.de T Studio Therapy 01606 883604
To subscribe to WWB simply call us on: +44 (0)1484 846069 or visit wwb-online.co.uk. EU £75 (includes p&p)
Outside EU £146 (includes p&p)
110 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2014
UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL —
MARY GRANT The designer and founder of the eponymous label talks about the evolution of the brand and expansion plans. —
What first attracted you to fashion design? I was always making things from a young age. One of my earliest memories was learning how to knit sitting on the kitchen floor while my mum was cooking – I was around three years old. What is your signature style, and who is the woman you are targeting? We are known for a few different things. Our jersey range is in its fourth season and has taken on a life of its own, attracting customers that vary across all ages. We are also known for our quirky standalone, easy fit daywear pieces in more structured fabrics. We are targeting women of all ages, but more typically 30-plus as they begin to appreciate quality and luxury products. How has the label evolved since its inception in 1993? We are constantly evolving and developing each season. Brands can have a short life cycle if they don’t “move it on” each season. When I started the business in 1993, it was very much about making to measure. It allowed me to start doing a bit of what I wanted and, after around 12 months, I began producing small daywear collections. We now have a look that is quite recognisable, but we try to introduce elements of surprise each season, alongside the things that customers expect from us. As the business is small, we have managed to keep creativity at the core. You’re stocked in some high-profile stockists – what are your expansion plans? Having pulled back from wholesale for a number of seasons to focus on some key concessions, such as in Brown Thomas, we are returning to wholesale for a/w 14 and would like to renew and build lasting relationships with old and new boutique partners. We showed at Scoop for the first time last month, where we made some great contacts and came away with lots of valuable feedback, which we will use to build our offering for next season. What are your plans going forward? Six months ago, we opened our first own-brand store in Kildare that we will continue to develop. It is such a creative opportunity and another source of inspiration. When we have it perfected, we may look at opening another store – I would love one in London or New York.
INSIDER: Who is your style icon? Coco Chanel – what a great story; a woman who changed the world. — Which fashion business do you admire? Brown Thomas for its standards, and Kalu in Naas for its vision, creativity and focus. — What’s the best piece of industry advice you’ve ever been given? “Go and do something else!” It is a tough industry – you have to grow a thick skin. In business, you leave your design head outside the door, and when you get knocked down, you pick yourself up, dust yourself off, smile and move on. — What’s the one fashion item you can’t live without? Our contour leggings – they smooth out every line. —