WWB MAGAZINE MARCH/APRIL ISSUE

MARCH/APRIL 2014 — ISSUE 236 WOMENSWEAR BUYER

— A/W 14 REBOOTED The footwear brands and trends not to miss —

— STEPPING UP How Dkode is planning to leave its footprint on the UK market —

— DESIGN WORLD Five accessory brands in the spotlight —

— UNDERCOVER STARS The latest innovations in the shapewear sector —

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CONTENTS —

REGULARS

FEATURES

FASHION

7 EDITOR’S COMMENT — 8 NEWS — 12 BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear — 16 TALKING POINT — 52 RETAIL FORUM The latest news from the industry — 58 UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL With Danielle Ryan —

18 Q&A With Timberland’s Timo Schmidt-Eisenhart — 24 STEP BY STEP Footwear label Dkode’s growth plans — 32 SOLE SEARCHING The footwear news, product launches and labels to watch — 36 DETAIL VIEW Key accessory designers in the spotlight — 40 MODA BESTSELLERS The highlights from last month’s show — 44 DOWN TO BUSINESS Essential advice for retailers — FRONT COVER: YAS —

20 STYLE FILE — 22 FASHION RADAR — 26 HEART AND SOLE The key trends for a/w 14 from Moda Footwear — 38 ALL THE SMALL THINGS The essential accessories for a/w 14 — 48 HOT OFF THE CATWALK A round-up of the key runway looks from LFW — 50 IN GOOD SHAPE Focus on the latest shapewear innovations —

General Enquiries 01392 876390 l Customer Service 0800 294 3373 JosephRibkoff.com

Official sponsor of

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COMMENT —

Editor Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com — Contributors Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — Sub editor Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — Design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — Sales manager Lisa Hardy lisa.hardy@ras-publishing.com — Subscriptions Laura Martindale laura.martindale@ite-exhibitions.com — Production director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — Portfolio director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com — Reprographics/printing ImageData Group 01482 652323

— WWB is published 9 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 — Copyright © 2014 WWB Magazine Limited.

All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

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RAS Publishing is an ITE Group PLC company A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication WWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include MWB and CWB.

WITH THE FASHION E-COMMERCE SECTOR BECOMING INCREASINGLY COMPETITIVE, RETAILERS’ BIGGEST CHALLENGE IS NOT ONLY HOW TO KEEP ATTRACTING SHOPPERS TO THEIR SITE, BUT ALSO HOW TO DELIVER EXCEPTIONAL CUSTOMER SERVICE AND REDUCE RETURNS. — It’s not surprising then, that the race for reinvention is well and truly under way by all players in the sector.

Cue My-Wardrobe.com, which recently launched its new Try-before-you-buy service. Under the retailer’s My-Dressing Room scheme, top-tier ranked customers can order up to ten items of clothing to the value of £1,000 each and have them delivered for free, with shoppers only charged seven days later for the pieces that they have decided to keep.

Intended undoubtedly to win back its core customer, the format also aims to take the inconvenience out of time-consuming returns (once customers have decided what to keep, they arrange for the rest to be picked up at a suitable time), which can be off-putting for some. It also panders to those who prefer to try on clothes in the comfort of their own home, and addresses the fact that most online shoppers (myself included) are guilty of ordering more items or size options than they are planning to keep, while taking the hassle out of waiting for refunds to be processed.

The Try-before-you-buy scheme may seem like the height of online customer service at first glance, but it’s also a shrewd move by the e-tailer to encourage sales – after all, it takes a strong woman to resist a desirable piece that she holds in her hands, in her own home, tried on with her own things and then

to wrap it back up and return. The psychology of seduction, masterfully applied in a shopping context.

Of course, not every store can afford to part with high-ticket items like that for free for more than seven days, and it’s unlikely to be a viable option for independents with much smaller resources and stock turnaround.

However, it does show that the online sector is hotting up, not just in terms of fierce competition, but also in terms of the all-important customer service and its successful translation from bricks and mortar to the web. And this is something that remains pertinent to all retailers, big or small, who are competing for a slice of the online cake.

Isabella Griffiths, editor

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NEWS —

THE REALITY OF UK MANUFACTURING Last month’s ASBCI fashion industry conference discussed the commercial viability of reviving the UK manufacturing base.

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As offshore manufacturing costs and ethical issues continue to escalate, the political will of retailers and brands to resurrect a UK manufacturing base is now becoming a viable commercial option - an issue that was discussed at last month’s ASBCI fashion industry conference, which welcomed over 170 delegates.

High-street retailers, along with niche and luxury brands, are actively working with colleges, schools and apprenticeship schemes to train the next generation of skilled workers for careers in clothing manufacturing.

Alek Adamski, partner in UK supply chain practice at global management consulting firm Kurt Salmon, provided an optimistic presentation to kick-start the event.

Increased labour and freight costs, difficulties in sourcing raw materials, environmental and ethical concerns, and China’s focus on the demands of its domestic market have made UK retailers look again at UK sourcing. Cost to serve, Adamski explains, is key, and retailers have started to understand the true cost differentials in sourcing from the Far East as opposed to the UK, which is

translating into action. “Retailers are recognising that long-term collaborations with local suppliers are becoming a key element of supply chain success,” says Adamski.

A Kurt Salmon study has shown that fabric, colour, silhouette and quantity decisions made closer to sale improve margins and speed to market.

“Every eight weeks saved generates two per cent improvement on retained margin – it is a real reason to source from the UK,” he adds.

Tony O’Connor, head of design in menswear at M&S, told how the company has made “iconic retro British style” the point of difference for its new Best of British men’s and womenswear range. M&S refused to compromise on the “made in the UK” integrity of the collection, so all of the tweeds and components were sourced on home turf.

“It wasn’t easy to find manufacturers for the collection, but we made some contacts in the industry who helped me land the range in just four weeks,” says O’Connor.

Ian Maclean, MD of knitwear label John Smedley, meanwhile, identified five core brand values that

“Retailers are recognising that long-term collaborations with local suppliers are becoming a key element of supply chain success”

play a part in making UK brands a success in the global market – Britishness, design, quality, craftsmanship and community. He urges delegates to celebrate British success stories, while design, Maclean adds, is not just about designers. He implored industry organisations, such as the British Fashion Council and the media to “change their language and recognise the importance of UK manufacturers in delivering British Fashion on the global stage.”

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NEWS —

ANIMAL OPENS LONDON SHOWROOM Surf and sportswear brand Animal has opened a new showroom in London, signifying a step forward for the label.

Opening earlier this year, the 2,825 sq ft space is located in Metropolitan Wharf, Wapping Wall, and currently showcases menswear, womenswear, kidswear and accessories for a/w 14. The brand is hoping to support existing wholesale accounts and attract new customers to aid its sales growth in the UK market.

BENCH OWNER AMERICANA INTERNATIONAL SOLD Americana International, owner of young fashion brand Bench, has been acquired by German private equity firm Emeram Capital Partners from HgCapital for an undisclosed sum.

The Bench brand has been undergoing a strategic review over the last 18 months, culminating in a new, more focused brand proposition that was launched for a/w 14 at trade show Bread & Butter Berlin, and will determine the future growth and direction of the label.

“Impressively, Americana has established Bench as a successful international brand,” says Kai Obring, partner at Emeram. “We will build upon this strong foundation and continue to develop the business with its unique position as a multi-purpose city clothing brand. We look forward to supporting Americana with this next step and realising Bench’s full growth potential.”

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MARC CAIN RACKS UP DOUBLE DIGIT TURNOVER INCREASE German premium brand Marc Cain has reported a turnover increase of 13 per cent for 2013, with turnover totalling ¤253m.

The company attributes the double-digit increase primarily to its continuous developments across its product groups and vertical expansion strategies, allowing the brand to consolidate and expand its market share. Between 2007 and 2013, Marc Cain invested around ¤82m in administration and manufacture, as well as research and developments, while a new logistics centre is currently being constructed at the headquarters in Bodelshausen, Germany, which is set to be in operation for spring next year.

The opening of new stores has also played its part in the strong performance of the label, with exports accounting for 60 per cent of turnover, while 18 new store openings and shop-in-shops are also planned worldwide, most notably across France, Italy, Australia, Japan, Korea, Kuwait, Russia, Tenerife and Cyprus.

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SECRETSALES.COM ENTERS 2014 ON A HIGH Secretsales.com, the flash sales website spanning fashion and homeware, has revealed a 69 per cent increase on its year-on-year figures for 2013. The website now has three million registered members and, in December, shipped its one-millionth order.

“We’ve continued to post record results, and these figures show that as well as attracting new members, our existing customers are buying more than ever,” says co-founder Sach Kukadia.

CARNEGIE UK TRUST PLANS TO REVIVE TOWN CENTRES UK charity Carnegie UK Trust has launched a nationwide initiative, TestTown, to offer young people the opportunity to bring a new business to life and to help revitalise the UK’s flagging high street. The initiative aims to fill the void left by the 50,000 vacant shops, according to the Local Data Company, in Britain’s town centres by attracting young entrepreneurs between the ages of 16 and 30 years old to open their own retail businesses. The charity is calling on young entrepreneurs in Manchester, Middlesbrough, Rhyl, Kirkintilloch, Bury St Edmunds, Perth and Coleraine to apply to be part of the TestTown scheme this summer. Each regional winner will be given £500 in start-up funds to trial their ideas in unused high street spaces that will be made available to the TestTown groups and individuals.

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NEWS —

AMARI AND LILY & ME MERGE Print-led womenswear brand Amari has merged with its sister company Lily & Me for a/w 14 and will now wholesale under the Lily & Me label only.

While the product will retain the signature that Amari has been known for, with a focus on lifestyle-influenced, easy-to-wear pieces, new branding will be introduced across swing tags, labels and POS. The company decided to fuse the labels after an increasing overlap of customer base between the two brands. “We were aware that our Amari and Lily & Me collections were essentially aimed at the same lady, albeit her daytime and evening looks, and therefore it seemed obvious to merge the brands and concentrate on a more rounded collection under the one name,” says Polly Webb, co-founder of the label. “As Amari is our signature brand, we have retained much of the lifestyle-led ‘Amari look’, however we have carried forward the Lily & Me name as we feel it far more commercial and reflective of the English lifestyle choice we envisage for our brand.”

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MODA LOOKS AHEAD FOLLOWING SEASON OF SUCCESS The a/w 14 edition of Moda was hailed a success, with a series of new features and brands across the five sectors contributing to an overall increase in visitor numbers of five per cent compared to last February’s show, with the first day of the show netting an eight per cent increase in visitor footfall year-on-year.

Among this season’s innovations was Moda Noir, an area dedicated to evening and ocassionwear from key international brands.

Moda Noir sat alongside a newly expanded Moda White, with exhibitors in the dedicated space for fashion forward and directional womenswear design also benefitting from a prominent new position within the show.

Joy Redfern, sales agent for Elisa Cavaletti and first-time Moda brand Léo Guy, says, “We have had a phenomenal response this season, and I think that both our new position and presence on the catwalks have contributed to the sales success. Between the two brands, we have had almost 60 new accounts.”

The next edition of Moda will take place on 10-12 August.

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PRIMARK MEETS RANA PLAZA COMMITMENT Primark is honouring its compensation commitment to the victims of the Rana Plaza building collapse in Bangladesh last year. The company is making long-term payments to the 580 workers (or their dependents) of Primark supplier New Wave Bottoms, which occupied the second floor of the eight-storey building, who died or were injured as a result of the tragedy.

The payment will be met in full, in cash, directly by Primark, and will amount to around $9m.

Primark will also process a further payment of $1m to workers in its competitors’ supply chain. This money will be paid to the Rana Plaza Donors Trust Fund (Trust Fund) chaired by the International Labour Organisation (ILO) for distribution. This is in addition to the $2m that Primark has distributed to these workers, or their families, bringing the total of Primark’s financial compensation to the victims of Rana Plaza to around $12m.

JOHN CHARLES SETTLES LAWSUIT AGAINST GINO CERUTTI British fashion house John Charles has settled its High Court claim against Gino Cerutti. The occasionwear brand sued Gino Cerutti for intellectual property infringement of nine original John Charles designs. The label has secured a favourable settlement that sees Gino Cerutti make what is described as a “substantial payment in respect of damages”, cover all legal costs, as well as destroy its residual stock of the styles that had been copied. “I am very pleased with the result,” says Barry Waterman, chairman of John Charles. “We had no alternative but to pursue this claim to protect the integrity of our design process and the investment expended in creating a range of original designs. It sends a message to the industry that John Charles will not stand by and see its valuable intellectual property rights violated.”

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NEWS —

E-COMMERCE BENEFITS FROM WET WEATHER

BREAD & BUTTER CANCELS PUBLIC DAYS

Latest figures from the IMRG Capgemini e-Retail Sales Index have revealed that despite a steep slow-down in high-street sales in February, a result of the severe wet weather that battered large parts of the UK, e-commerce recorded a solid performance, with an 18 per cent annual increase.

Berlin trade show Bread & Butter has cancelled its plans to introduce a consumer element to its summer edition, following strong rejection from the industry to the proposed plans.

This equates to an estimated £7.2bn spent online, fuelled by ongoing growth in consumer confidence in the online retail sector, as well as sales of Valentine’s Day gifts such as lingerie, which recorded a year-on-year growth of 24 per cent. Mobile commerce also continues its rapid growth, clocking up a year-on-year increase of 66 per cent.

Overall, online-only retailers surged ahead of multi-channel counterparts in February, with online-only and catalogue retailers recording an annual growth of 22 per cent – the strongest year-on-year growth for three years and far exceeding their multi-channel counterparts, which recorded growth of just 16 per cent.

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In a brief statement, Karl-Heinz Müller, Bread & Butter’s managing director, said the idea to create an “interactive festival” that involved the end consumer “seemed natural in theory”, but that due to the evident “intensive, logistic and organisational challenges” involved and the controversy surrounding the plans, Bread & Butter would remain a platform for trade only.

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STRONG PERFORMANCE FOR MICHÈLE SKIRT COLLECTION German trouser specialist Michèle has recorded a 52 per cent sales increase for its standalone skirt collection, fuelled by high sell-throughs in 2013 and a strong start to s/s 14.

The brand also added 200 new customers to its Europe-wide account base, including high-profile independents in the UK. The company is therefore forecasting to double its skirt turnover for a/w 14, ahead of initial projections.

“It appears we got the timing to introduce a standalone skirt collection absolutely right. We anticipated the trend and designed the right product, which is reflected in the high sell-throughs for winter 2013, as well as in early sales results for Summer 2014”, says Michael Irskens, the brand’s managing director, who says that the positive results also benefit the performance of the brand’s trouser collection, which has also seen strong results thanks to a clear product strategy and branding.

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Y.A.S LAUNCHES LINE OF WARDROBE BASICS Danish high-street brand Y.A.S, part of the Bestseller Group of labels, is now launching a sub-line of wardrobe basics, Simply Y.A.S. In addition to the Y.A.S main line, which offers trend-led pieces and affordable luxury, Simply Y.A.S is a more basic collection of wardrobe staples and timeless classics that are commercial while also trend-inspired. The debut collection for s/s 14 features a basic colour palette, with each piece chosen to easily mix with the Y.A.S main collection both in-store and in terms of personal expression of style, with shirts, drop dresses, jackets, trousers and skirts forming part of the range.

Simply Y.A.S will cater for eight collections a year, and will be available online and in shops across Europe.

NEW APPOINTMENT AT DOUBLE TWO Double Two has appointed Robert Wells as head of sales. Previously with Skopes, BMB and Crowther Group of Companies, Wells will work with Geoff Phipps, Double Two brand director, in developing new business opportunities across its men’s shirts, casualwear and ladies’ blouse divisions.

EMU INTRODUCES NEW CREATIVE STRATEGY Sheepskin brand Emu has introduced a new creative strategy for a/w 14. Under the new direction, the brand has removed the “Australia” moniker within its name and will now be known as Emu, as well as having replaced the Australian flag with a new logo, symbolising an Emu’s footprint and loop of wool.

Furthermore, the brand has introduced three new collections within its range: Elements, with a focus on waterproof styles; Select, a fashion-focused range; and Beach, which is a reinvention of the shearling boot.

Five brand pillars – natural, comfort, innovation, boundless and enduring – are now the key force behind the creative strategy.

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PEOPLE —

BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear —

GIVE UP CLOTHES FOR GOOD

BARBOUR SHARES STORIES FOR 120TH ANNIVERSARY Barbour is celebrating its 120th anniversary by inviting customers to share their stories and connotations with the brand. Whether it be a tale of a wax jacket that has been passed down through generations, or pictures of dogs roaming country fields in RETAIL their Barbour dog coats, fans of REVIVAL AT HOF — the heritage label are House of Fraser is backing the encouraged to submit their Retail Revival initiative, images and stories via Twitter giving ten promising retail and Instagram or microsite brands a platform to access consumers via a pop-up space www.thestory.barbour.com, which held in its Oxford Street is where the submissions will also flagship in May. be featured. A Barbour Originals — classic wax jacket will be awarded to those who submit the best entries every week until the end of June.

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Cancer Research and high-street retailer TK Maxx have launched the UK’s biggest and longest-running clothes collection campaign, Give Up Clothes for Good, designed to fund vital research into the treatment and cure of children’s cancers.

Customers can drop off their unwanted clothing and accessories in the special boxes provided in stores nationwide, with this being the first time the campaign will run all year round. Supermodel and actress Jerry Hall is fronting the campaign, photographed here by renowned photographer Jason Bell, a supporter of Give Up Clothes for Good.

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Colette Tebbutt, managing director of ITE Moda, publisher of WWB, successfully climbed Mount Kilimanjaro last month, raising more than £17,000 in the process for bowel cancer research.

Much deserved congratulations!

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BORIS JOHNSON OPENS GANDY’S HQ

Dr Pixie takes to Moda stage TV medical expert Dr Pixie McKenna made a welcome appearance at last month’s Moda, sharing insights into the importance of maintaining breast health, especially during exercise, and joined lingerie brand Freya Active in explaining the merits of its new sports bra, which has been backed with scientific research by the University of Portsmouth.

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The Mayor of London, Boris Johnson, officially opened the new London headquarters of flip-flop brand Gandy’s, which moved to new premises last month after having been founded in a small flat in Brixton two years ago. The label is on the verge of a major export drive, and is expected to trade with more the 30 countries and on target to have sold 230,000 flip-flops. Never one to shy away from a challenge, Johnson tried his luck at his own flip-flops, and came up with a London bus design.

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OPINION —

TALKING POINT Key industry players give their views on the issues that affect womenswear.

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FASHION BUYING IS NO RACING CERTAINTY

THE UPS AND DOWNS OF THE FASHION BUSINESS

It is starting to feel a lot like spring, which is just as well because our deliveries have been arriving thick and fast.

I approached autumn/winter 2014 in a positive way, however I knew – as did many of my colleagues in the industry – that it was going to be a challenging season. I can honestly say that my positivity has been knocked around quite a bit, and the season has had some highs and lows. I know this experience isn’t just exclusive to the UK – most of Europe is having a tough season.

I don’t know about you, but I always have a few nerves when our new stock arrives. Although we have good records of collections we’ve bought and I know our customer profile like the back of my hand, I always feel buying is like betting on a horse race because what was last season’s favourite could be this season’s donkey. It begs the question (while running from showroom to showroom) how do we avoid the seasonal “turkeys” and hone in on the new bestsellers, the season’s must-haves and, on many occasions, a rank outsider? While the usual media influences are there for all to see, do you rely on your buying instincts, or run with the pack?

Of course, we could play it safe, but I’ve found customers such as myself want to be dazzled by the new season and not bored with looks they’ve bought before. Not that familiarity is dull or predicable, because there is always going to be a need for good basics.

However, we need to be able to reach to new customers and entice them with something “outside the box”. Which brings me back to my racing analogy – are you a pack buyer or a front runner? In my opinion, there’s no reason why we can’t be both, therefore maximising our spread and offer at the same time. To illustrate this more clearly, one of our most loyal customers paid us a visit with her teenage daughter, and to her surprise her daughter spied a jacket on our rails and instantly fell in love. Overwhelmed that her daughter had finally found something she couldn’t live without, the sale was made and her daughter left wearing the item. This isn’t an unusual scenario, because over the years we’ve dressed many generations of families, however it did surprise our customer that her daughter couldn’t find what she was looking for within the usual high-street stores, but did find it with us on her local high street.

Maybe what this illustrates is a mild swing away from high-street looks to a more individual style that only independents like myself can achieve. Or was it because I stuck my neck out, backed an unlikely filly and, as luck would have it, she romped home for me ahead of the trusted competition? Either way, the odds paid off, and it now leaves me thinking, “Next generation, we’ve only just begun...”

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Pamela Shiffer, owner, Pamela Shiffer, London

The weather is topsy-turvy, making the forward-order process even more difficult. And regardless of what the government may try to say in relation to the recession and unemployment figures, consumer confidence, in my humble opinion, is still lacking.

Retailers are naturally careful and take fewer risks, staying with their existing brand mix, reducing budgets and are understandably not as open to new collections. Many retailers are continuing to use Open to Buy budgets, allowing them to react to weather and trends.

What I have noticed more and more every season is that it is far easier to work with a range that is category focused. Alternatively, if you represent a ready-to-wear line, retailers seem to focus on its category strength within the brand – it may be stronger in knitwear, meaning the label’s vision is not presented in the shop. However, the retailer is playing to the collection’s strength. Hopefully their confidence will grow and they will experiment in other aspects of the brand with a strong sell-through. Ultimately, product is king – if the collection looks strong, deliveries are on time and sell-through remains positive, hopefully the retailer will have continued confidence to work with the brand.

We are all going to have to remain as positive as possible and continue to work together to support each other. The retailer relies on the consumer who is sharp, searching out discounts and incentives to name just two frustrating points. Equally, the retailer is also super sharp in searching out deals with the agents and brands. I personally hope retailers realise how difficult it is to be an agent or distributor.

We often have to wait an entire year before we get paid commission, and even then there is no guarantee. For the agents, it’s not just about selling, which continues to be a challenge, but the goods also have to be delivered and the invoices paid. After this, you have to hope the brand keeps its part of the agreement and pays you commission.

I often ask myself, with all the hurdles, why do we continue doing it? And the answer remains the same, for me at least – I enjoy fashion, and the evolution, energy and magic it continues to provide season on season.

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Jeni Eliff, owner, Winnie & Ed Showroom

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INTERVIEW —

Q&A

Timo Schmidt-Eisenhart — The president of Timberland EMEA lead the integration of the brand into the vast VF portfolio back in 2012, eyeing the brand’s 40th anniversary in 2013 as a key time to build on brand awareness and product lines with particular emphasis on establishing a solid and profitable foundation in women’s casual footwear.

This year sees that push grow in momentum, as Tom Bottomley discovers.

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Tom Bottomley: You joined Timberland in 2012, how is your position different to previous roles at The North Face and Nike?

Timo Schmidt-Eisenhart: The main difference is the integrator role as Timberland president after the VF acquisition of the brand. This was the biggest acquisition for VF and it has played a key role in making the integration as smooth as possible. Last year was a great year in terms of business, too. We moved our offices from the UK to Stabio in Switzerland, relocating many professionals while hiring new talent from different companies with international backgrounds. It was a challenge to integrate the new team into the Timberland and VF way of working, but it’s worked well.

TB: What has been the focus for women’s footwear? Is it more performance, lifestyle or fashion related?

TSE: SPG is our internal term that stands for Style, Performance and Green - our unique design formula that goes into everything we make. It’s based on what people look for when they shop. Firstly, they care about how it looks (Style), then how it works (Performance), and finally they’re happy to see it was made with the planet in mind (Green). Our efforts today are focused on increasing the weight of the S but keeping the P and G that make us different from competitors.

TB: How many Timberland stores do you currently have in the UK? TSE: In the UK there are 17 retail stores, with Timberland’s presence strengthened through the existence of 13 franchise stores and seven outlets.

TB: Is retail presence something you are looking to grow in the UK market going forward?

TSE: Yes it is. We want to achieve this growth in the UK market through the opening of franchise stores, as we have experienced positive results with our existing partners. At the moment, we are working to a target of 10 new stores, all to be opened in a/w 14. We are also continually looking at how our in-store presence can be improved, to ensure a world-class experience and service.

TB: How important is independent retailer business to your growth strategy, and what are the key styles seeing success with independents right now?

TSE: From a wholesale perspective, that’s our opportunity to reach consumers all across the region with great Timberland product.

Having strong wholesale partnerships and best in class customer service to go along with it, is critical to our success as a brand.

The wholesale business is continuing to grow and be ever more valuable in the UK. Existing retailers are seeing sell-through of our women’s product, and therefore are buying confidently into more women’s

INTERVIEW —

“HAVING STRONG WHOLESALE PARTNERSHIPS AND BEST IN CLASS CUSTOMER SERVICE TO GO ALONG WITH IT, IS CRITICAL TO OUR SUCCESS AS A BRAND”

footwear and clothing, which is a key growth area for Timberland. The iconic six-inch boot continues to perform well for Timberland, for both women and men. Cupsole is the latest version of this classic style and the women’s Nellie design offers a sportier version.

TB: Is the famous classic Timberland boot undergoing a fashion renaissance once again with the likes of Rita Ora, Cara Delevingne and Rihanna wearing them?

TSE: In 1973 we built our original yellow boot. It was a rugged, durable, waterproof leather boot made for cold, wet weather.

Today, it’s the “icon” of our brand, and it symbolises our heritage of authenticity and quality. In the 90s, the US hip-hop community was wearing our YB, and today our original boot is right at the centre of trends like rugged style, authenticity, durability and American values. Celebrities love it, and their endorsement of course helps the brand to be even hotter these days. Our challenge is to make the rest of our collection as desirable as our “icon”, and we are on the right track.

TB: What else is new with regard to Timberland going in to other areas?

TSE: We have taken the iconic Timberland Boot and spun it differently onto a cupsole; different by the fact that it’s recycled rubber.

With it we introduced more colour and materials than before to make it relevant to the younger consumer. The Newmarket Cupsole range for this spring is our urban and trend connection. We have stayed true to the brand values with rich leathers, recycled linings and comfort, and sales have exceeded expectations, too.

TB: How are you developing the apparel lines? Is it all about lifestyle or are there more fashion elements being introduced for a/w 14?

TSE: From a design perspective, our products are rooted in the brand’s heritage – ruggedly stylish, beautifully crafted, with attention to every detail. Designed out of Timberland’s International Design Centre (IDC) in London, the new Timberland apparel line is made with the same focus on craftsmanship

that went into our first boot. The collections use eco-conscious materials and merge classic styles with modern twists, resulting in designs that will appeal to consumers with a variety of tastes and lifestyles.

TB: How does the women’s Timberland business compare to the men’s?

TSE: Globally, firstly in terms of product, the breakdown is around 70 per cent footwear compared to 30 per cent apparel and accessories. Apparel is much more relevant on the men’s side today, but we’re working on improving the style and fits for women. In terms of footwear, it’s still a higher men’s contribution, but one of our key priorities is to fulfill women’s needs with a stronger casual collection.

TB: What message are you trying to get across to consumers?

TSE: We want to emphasise our message – Best Then. Better Now. Since 2013, Timberland has stepped forward each season with a refreshed sense of style, youthfulness and purpose in a way that rings true to the brand. We’re taking a more lifestyle-focused direction – more new silhouettes and head-to-toe looks – that pay tribute to our roots while showcasing a more modern design, which can be seen in our footwear and apparel, across the brand and in-store. Best Then. Better Now is an invitation to rediscover Timberland. It was introduced in a/w 13 as a way to celebrate our 40th anniversary.

TB: What are your ultimate goals for the brand?

TSE: We want to keep the label hot and relevant to our millennial consumer. We want to knock on new consumers’ doors, showing new stylish and versatile collections and talking to them on a daily basis through all communication channels – off and online – putting digital at the core of our business. At the end of 2012, Timberland was a $1.5bn brand. The five-year goal is that, by the end of 2017, Timberland will be a $2.3bn business.

20 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH/APRIL 2014

FASHION —

STYLE FILE The hottest brands not to miss this month —

STYLE FLASH — Smiley has launched its latest licence collection, Happy Sports, a sportswear range delivering distinctive urban swagger across a range of technical fabrics and bright neon colour pops.

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▲ COATED IN STYLE Woolrich’s womenswear offering for a/w 14 presents a total look inspired by the creative and artistic world.

Two major themes form the basis for the range – Military Surrealism and Pennsylvania Portrait. It is a series of new outerwear models featuring items such as the Eugene Coat (pictured), the new Eskimo with chinchilla-rex dyed fur and new variations of the iconic Arctic Parka.

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MUSICAL FASHION TOUR Pepe London’s a/w 14 collection is going on a musical tour. From rock ’n’ roll rebellion to punk gothic, inspiration comes from all genres of music. This is translated through bold and strong colours, embellishments and decorations, with a nod to British heritage and grunge meets school girl vibe. It’s all about easy silhouettes and anarchic chic.

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Following a huge brand shake-up this season, Bench has launched its new Multipurpose City Clothing range, taking on functional and performance technologies, features and constructions but making them adaptable for everyday life.

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▲ CLEAR VISION Eyewear label Sunday Somewhere hails from Oz and is making its UK debut this season.

The brand’s design philosophy is based on beautifully crafted, classic frames with a modern twist and cool attitude.

References to classic vintage frames are teamed with intricate modern detailing and futuristic materials and colours.

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Vero Moda has launched a STYLE FLASH new environmentally — friendly sub-line, Levi’s has launched a premium made-to-order jean service at Green Attitude, its flagship store on Regent introducing between Street, called Lot No.1. Each five and seven new style is made on site by the brand’s Saville Row tailor. styles every month, — made from organic and recycled materials.

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Jewel in the Crown UK jewellery label ChloBo’s latest collection channels the vibrant colours and exotic charm of the global traveller. Mixing turquoise, amethyst and coral, the collection consists of wanderlust-inspiring necklaces, bracelets and chunky cuffs.

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22 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH/APRIL 2014

FASHION —

FASHION RADAR The hottest brands to look out for right now —

JN LLOVET

THREE FLOOR

The German leather brand is making its UK debut for a/w 14 with a range of original designs for the discerning woman.

The UK dress label aims to create wearable styles while pushing the boundaries of affordable design.

Established: 2012

Established: 2011

Signature style: Fashionable but timeless leather jackets with an individual twist. The emphasis is on innovative cuts, exclusive leathers and extravagant design elements.

Signature style: The look is centred on vibrant, playful and effortless style in statement colour palettes and luxe fabrics.

JN Llovet was founded by German designer Jacqueline Nicola Llovet six years ago after a Bolivian tailor created her dream leather jacket during a trip to South America. The concept for the label was born, and since then the brand has been specialising in exclusive leather jackets made from soft, high-quality nappa leather. The focus is on design elements such as quilting, contrasting colour zips and yarns, as well as a signature colourful lining, giving each style an individual look. New to the UK for a/w 14, the brand is represented by Garguz showroom and is looking to open around 15 accounts in high-end boutiques in its first season, following successful launches in Spain, Italy and the US. Wholesale prices average at around ¤250.

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Based in North Greenwich, London, Three Floor is a collective of designers who have a vast amount of experience in fashion design and the industry at all levels, which may be the reason why the brand has been generating a lot of attention since it launched three years ago. The label has built up a following for its range of dresses, but more recently has also expanded into separates and accessories, which are proving a popular addition to its portfolio.

Attention to detail is key in the brand’s design philosophy, targeting an average customer aged 18-30. The s/s 14 collection offers a bright colour palette and the brand’s first exclusive print, alongside sporty textures and lightweight fabrics, while a/w 14 sees the focus shift to cosy knitwear alongside ultimate party dresses. Wholesale prices range between £50 and £100.

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23 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH/APRIL 2014

PROMOTION —

THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO E-COMMERCE The May edition of WWB will include a dedicated focus on e-commerce, providing retailers with an indispensable guide to e-tailing, tackling topics such as web design, logistics, Epos, photography, payments, returns and much more.

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For advertising and sponsorship opportunities in this comprehensive guide contact Lisa Hardy on 01484 846069 or email lisa.hardy@ras-publishing.com —

24 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH/APRIL 2014

PROFILE —

STEP BY STEP Portuguese footwear label Dkode is launching its first global e-commerce site this month, with efforts in particular concentrated on the UK market, which the label has earmarked as a key expansion platform. Vasco Sampaio, the brand’s CEO, shares his plans with Isabella Griffiths.

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V

asco Sampaio, CEO of Portuguese footwear label Dkode, isn’t the easiest of chaps to pin down, having just returned from a business trip to the States when WWB catches up with him. It’s a busy time for the brand, with exports growing season on season, creating a demanding schedule for Sampaio. Not that he minds, as he cheerfully chats about the quirky label and the wave of international growth it currently rides.

Dkode is the own-label brand of footwear manufacturer Sozé, one of the top 10 footwear manufacturers in Portugal, employing 160 staff across two high-tech factories and headquarters. Sampaio is the second-generation head of the business, which was founded in 1976 by his father, initially as a small shoe producer with its own sneaker label, though it swiftly grew into a significant private-label manufacturer for a number of high-profile UK and international names. The company remained focused on private label until 2000, when it decided to launch its own label, Dkode, following expansion into a second high-tech production plant a few years earlier, which enabled the business to grow and expand on a bigger scale.

Sozé is still divided into a private-label arm and its Dkode

own-label production, both of which take up more or less an equal share of the business, though Dkode now generates 95 per cent of its turnover through exports.

While it currently enjoys significant growth across global export markets, Dkode has struggled to get a proper footing in the UK over the last few years, which seems surprising considering that its quirky style, appropriate price points and high quality make it suitable to the tastes of the UK consumer, with the brand comfortably sitting alongside other quirky boutique brands such as Chie Mihara, Fly London, Art, Neosens and Camper. Sampaio is open about why he thinks the UK has been slow off the mark for Dkode. “The problem was that we just didn’t find dedicated agents who could push the brand for us,” he says. “All the agents we have been working with previously had a big portfolio of labels and only limited time for each one. But when you have a label that is new to a market, you have to invest time and resources into building it.”

Sampaio has therefore decided to change tack when it comes to the UK, having stepped away – for now – from the agency format, relying instead on his own sales force to deal with key UK accounts.

25 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH/APRIL 2014

PROFILE —

Vasco Sampaio

“Over the last three years we have honed in on what I would say is a proper signature for the brand. Each range is of course new and fresh, but there are core styles that we carry through the season and update. It helps with creating the brand awareness we need – otherwise you’re not known for anything” “We’re not saying we wouldn’t consider another agent,” he says.

“After all, this is the format we work with across other EU countries, but it has to be the right person with the commitment to really push and develop our brand. For the time being, it works for us dealing directly with UK customers. We may not grow as quickly, but that’s fine. We’d rather build the brand sustainably.”

The focus has therefore somewhat shifted from trade to consumer level, with PR company Lamb to Slaughter having recently been appointed to generate consumer exposure for the brand, and its global e-commerce site having launched earlier this month which, according to Sampaio, is going to be key in building the brand name further. “We will be spending a lot of energy on our British consumer, hopefully attracting a lot of demand for the label, which will then translate into greater demand on trade level, too.”

It’s not just in terms of distribution strategy that Dkode has undergone a reshuffle, but in design terms the brand has also stepped up significantly in recent times. “Over the last three years we have really honed in on what I would say is a proper signature for the brand,” says Sampaio. “Each collection is obviously new and fresh, but there are certain styles, such as the Wilma, for instance, that are our core, and which we carry through the season and update.

“It helps with creating the brand awareness we need – otherwise you’re not known for anything,” he continues. “Our design is very much individual, contemporary and with a certain personality, and above all it’s geared to be comfortable and wearable.

We’re not making shoes for the museum, but to make profit, so they have to be wearable, whether that’s for the job, or drinking a beer in a pub or going to a disco or party.”

Each collection consists of around 100 womenswear styles

aimed at the 25-45 age group at the core and an average retail price points of £120. Dkode also offers a menswear collection, which it launched three seasons ago, and which currently generates 10 per cent of the branded business, though the opportunities to grow are significant.

Sampaio’s wish list of stockists consists of a good mixture of fashion boutiques, footwear specialists and a healthy dose of department stores – a distribution profile that has proved successful in other countries, too. “We are focusing on giving our trade customers great service and working with them,” he says. “In the past, we were guilty of not getting it quite right, as we were facing a few logistical problems. But this was all ironed out around six years ago and we are now proud to always deliver on time and put our customer service first, which is playing a big part in our growth.”

Sampaio has the future direction of Dkode clearly mapped out, with short-term plans focusing on UK and other international growth, as well as the imminent launch of another own brand “which will be totally different”, he teases, without giving away any more details. Medium-term, he is also open to the idea of launching own flagship stores in strategic international cities such as London – part of a two to three year plan. Long-term, meanwhile, he doesn’t rule out expansion into a full lifestyle collection, which would include leather goods and accessories, as well as a ready-to-wear line.

“We are lucky that we have our high-tech production plants that offer us the opportunities to take our brand(s) further,” he says. “In terms of quality, price points, value and flexibility, Portugal offers production potential and competitiveness that you won’t find anywhere in the world, so it makes sense to build on that in the future.”

HEART AND SOLE THE KEY TRENDS IN CONTEMPORARY FOOTWEAR AS SEEN AT LAST MONTH’S MODA. —

PHOTOGRAPHS: WWW.CHRISHARVEYPHOTO.COM 07549 811066 — UNLESS STATED OTHERWISE ALL PRICES ARE WHOLESALE —

Lisa Kay £71.60 01923 800081

Marco Tozzi price on request 0049 523160501

Caprice £28 07734 247669

Gerry Weber £50 01603 307860

Riva £39.99 01452 727300

Tamaris £35.75 07810 560885

BUCKLE UP Buckles are the must-have eye-catchers for autumn/winter 2014, having been adapted across a number of boot styles, providing a slightly edgy tone to a winter staple.

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Marian price on request 0034 965456100

Peter Kaiser £129 0049 6331716130

Vanilla Moon £41.95 01536 310447

Moda in Pelle £52.95 0113 200 7360

Naturalizer £30 01706 219222

Lunar £15.99 01670 716878

ANIMAL INSTINCT Faux pony, leopard or zebra skins have sneaked into footwear designs this season, making for a quirky play on textures. Faux skin panels are particularly popular, creating just enough interest to be on-trend without being OTT. —

Caprice price on request 07734 247669

Rocket Dog £32.50 020 7380 8340

Tamaris £25.95 07810 560885

Marco Tozzi price on request 0049 523160501

Lisa Kay £39.90 01923 800081

Ravel £26 01706 212512

MADE IN CHELSEA A must-have style for a number of seasons, the Chelsea boot made a welcome return for autumn/winter 2014, having proved a solid bestseller for many brands.

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Ruby Shoo £15.65 01992 769612

Moda in Pelle £30.95 0113 200 7360

Riva £45.84 01452 727300

Marco Tozzi price on request 0049 523160501

Bronx £18.20 07841 052500

Ravel £20 01706 212512

COLOUR EXPLOSION Autumn/winter doesn’t have to be restricted to blacks and browns, as this season’s colour-pop styles successfully proved. Whether quirky colour-block panels or overall brights, they injected a welcome dose of vibrancy into the mix.

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32 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH/APRIL 2014

FOOTWEAR —

SOLE SEARCHING The footwear brands, product news and launches not to miss for a/w 14.

RUBY SHOO At Ruby Shoo, juxtaposed fabrics, patterns, colours and textures are at the forefront this season, inspired by a Brothers Grimm heroine braving the enchanted forest. The surreal meets the exotic in various forms – lizard and snake in metallic hues, woven jacquards partnered with smooth satins, and optical patterns clashing with geometric florals are all among the key features. The brand specialises in mixing contemporary design with a vintage ethos, delivering a quirky and individual take on classic shapes.

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TRACEY NEULS This season footwear designer Tracey Neuls provides a new take on the classic low-top brogue, with a focus on textures and surface interest using a wealth of different materials and treatments. The brand specialises in offering individualised footwear while always remaining contemporary and commercial. Clashing the feminine with masculine influences, the collection is both wearable and stylish, providing styles that are more than just a fashion fad, but offer an appealing timelessness.

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J SHOES This season J Shoes takes a twist on its iconic Charlie brogue with the development of metallic treated leathers.

These two-tone metallic finishes are hand-burnished, to create a unique layered effect. The brand is also continuing the brogue trend with the launch of the Mistress style, giving this classic shape a leather and faux pony skin makeover, which is available in black or oxblood red.

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33 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH/APRIL 2014

FOOTWEAR —

CARA

LOVE FROM AUSTRALIA Sheepskin boot specialist Love from Australia is launching a new trade ordering service for a/w 14, named MyLFA Web Ship. The new service gives customers the opportunity to order in-season without any cash outlay or stock holding. By using a new web ordering tool, LFA clients can order and pay online at wholesale prices and LFA then ship directly to the store or to their customers within one to two days.

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A cleaner and more androgynous look with simpler detailing and polished silver and gun-metal hardware has been applied across Cara, moving on from the exaggerated gold hardware and embellishments of previous seasons. Cut-out biker jackets are among the bestsellers, as are Western influenced classic and ankle boots, while over-the-knee boots with strapped knee guards and new wedge versions of the riding boots are also key designs in the a/w 14 collection.

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ROCKET DOG

AIGLE

The popular high wedge heel of previous seasons has returned to the Rocket Dog collection due to popular demand, with key styles including the Biddy boot, a platform wedge, calf high style with faux sheepskin lining and toggle details. The Sidney ankle boot is a new style for the season, featuring a mid-height block heel and taking inspiration from riding boots with an outer zip with matching zip pull.

Meanwhile, the new Suri boot offers warm lining, a patterned shaft, lace-up detail and a bright sole.

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This season Aigle has collaborated with British brand Nigel Cabourn on a Made in France collection, inspired by the mix of vintage French workwear and traditional British hunting attire, both integral elements of the Aigle and Cabourn heritage. The capsule collection encompasses six garments, one bag and three boot designs using natural materials such as waxed canvas, aged cotton, wool, leather, rubber and felt. The collection sits alongside Aigle’s main collection, which once again puts a strong focus on outdoor boots, including an updated version of its popular Liberty print wellies.

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34 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH/APRIL 2014

FOOTWEAR —

MODA IN PELLE Boots are a big focus at Moda in Pelle this season. From stylish but relaxed Chelsea boots through on-trend ankle boots to elegant knee-high versions and riding boots, the brand provides a wealth of seasonal key styles. Look out for metal inserts and buckles, as well as faux animal treatments, which are a dominating theme this season.

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GLOA SANVÉ French Caribbean leather and accessories brand Gloa Sanvé is launching to the UK this season. The brand, based in Guadeloupe, is an artisanal project run by founder Corinne Thimodent Nabal, and is set to not only offer an innovative footwear label, but also revive the local leather industry. Using high-quality leathers, the collection is produced on the island, and every pair can be traced back to not only the skins used, but also the provenance and tanning process of each locally produced hide.

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BUTTERFLY TWISTS

EMMA GO

THIERRY RABOTIN

The a/w 14 collection at Butterfly Twists is a fashion clash of masculine and feminine elements. The brand has added a number of new designs to conveniently foldable footwear styles, which can be discretely tucked away in the handbag. The insole is lined with breathable fabric and soft memory foam to cushion the foot, making the shoes comfortable, compact and practical.

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Danish brand Emma Go made its market debut in 2009 and has since been clocking up an international fan base on both a trade and consumer level. The shoes are handcrafted in the brand’s factory in Alicante, Spain, using leathers and materials sourced locally from high-quality suppliers. The a/w 14 line focuses on a diversity of boot styles, referencing key trends of the season while retaining a strong emphasis on comfort and integrity of design.

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This season Thierry Rabotin offers up a full range of ballerinas, slip-ons, moccasins, pumps, ankle and long-leg boots made of premium quality leathers and almost weightless high-performance materials. Ballet flats embrace multiple materials by matching soft lambskin nappa, silky fabric and wide or narrow elastic ribbons. The ultra-light wedged micro sole is one of the distinctive features of the brand’s slip-ons, while low and mid-high boots come in soft kid suede with velvet.

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A uniquely vintage gifting idea No need to buy cards or wrapping because we have already done that for you.

These gorgeous vintage earrings are presented on a beautiful 1950's inspired vintage postcard with quotes from some of favourite style icons of the time. Write your message on it, pop it in the Lovett & Co. gift bag and your gorgeous vintage inspired gift is ready to go! RRP between ÂŁ12 and ÂŁ14 www.lovettandco.co.uk Tel: 01273 230114 Email: sales@lovettandco.co.uk

36 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH/APRIL 2014

ACCESSORIES —

DETAIL VIEW WWB PUTS THE SPOTLIGHT ON FIVE ACCESSORY DESIGNERS CREATING A BUZZ AT THE MOMENT. —

ALICE HANNAH Established: 2007 Product sector: Knitted accessories Designer background: Partners Claire Pitcher (pictured) and Steve Blackburn set up Alice Hannah seven years ago after extensive experience in the industry, where Pitcher worked as knitwear design director and Blackburn in retail. The idea for the label came after a trip to Peru, where Pitcher was inspired by the rich colours and fabrics and Alice Hannah the label, named after Pitcher’s mother, was born.

Signature style: The brand offers high-quality knitted accessories that cleverly mix on-trend design with subtle references to yesteryear. A strong colour palette and rich textures, embellishments and ornate trims add to the original mix.

Collection: The a/w 14 range embraces four key trends, creating an eclectic selection of fashion knitwear pieces such as bobble hats, beanies, scarves, snoods, wraps, collars, gloves and palm warmers. A fusion of textured knits and faux fur is a key style feature within the collection.

Future plans: The brand is continually expanding, and is planning to extend its reach into the US and Scandinavian markets this season, as well as building on its customer base in the UK. —

CAIA OF SWEDEN Established: 2006 Product sector: Handbags Designer background: The label is the brainchild of Caisa Charlotte Leifsdotter, who was inspired by her mother’s old vintage bags and a love for raw leathers. The design philosophy of the label is that a bag is a personal accessory that develops its own history and is made to be used and worn through life, becoming better and better over time.

Signature style: The products are based on vegetable-tanned leather with linings in cotton, combining rough leather with feminine details and a vintage feel.

Collection: The a/w 14 collection features leather handbags, leather accessories and leather jewellery, with nature a key theme. Elegant black leather with natural patterns forms the main focus of the range, along with earthy brown leather and dark turquoise suede.

Future plans: The brand opened its first flagship store in the centre of Copenhagen in September, and is also sold in selected boutiques and web shops across Scandinavia, the UK and France, seeking to widen its net further over the next few seasons.

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37 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH/APRIL 2014

ACCESSORIES —

AGE OF REASON Established: 2011 Product sector: Luxury scarves Designer background: Founder Ali Taylor Mapletoft discovered her thirst for all things creative from an early age, citing her artist parents who ran a village pottery in Africa as a crucial influence. Taylor Mapletoft moved to the UK in the 90s, at the height of the grunge era, which has influenced her creative outlook since. Today, Camden, Shoreditch and Spitalfields are key inspirations for the collection, marrying Brit punk with bold colour combinations inspired by her African roots and travels.

Signature style: An antidote to cute kittens and chintzy floral motifs with a provocative twist.

Collection: The a/w 14 range is a contemporary collage of wild tribal patterns, lavish Tudor queens, handwritten text and winged horses in bold colour combinations. Prints take inspiration from African art and Japanese graphics, creating high-contrast visuals that are rendered on natural silks and wools.

Future plans: “To keep going and build Age of Reason into one of the leading contemporary scarf labels in the UK”, says Taylor Mapletoft. Having signed a number of high-profile indies and department stores for a/w 14, she seems on track to achieving that goal.

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LOVETT & CO Established: 2010 Product sector: Jewellery Designer background: A former fashion buyer in London, Rachel Lovett decided to follow her love for vintage-inspired jewellery design after she moved to Brighton and enjoyed a lifestyle and career change. In partnership with close friend and business partner Ally Martin, Lovett & Co is going from strength to strength and is now synonymous with feminine jewellery influenced by the 20s and 50s.

Signature style: Inspired by vintage elegance, silver-screen glamour and bygone eras of style and sophistication, the collection has both a vintage and modern twist, offering nostalgic glamour for the contemporary woman.

Collection: The latest collection Sweet Lilac has been influenced by the Edwardian period, featuring hand-painted enamel Sweet Lilac flowers set with Swarovski crystals hung delicately next to freshwater pearls on lacy brass chains. The collection has been coloured in a palette of chalky pastels that include mint, pale pink and white tones on a brass plating.

Future plans: The brand has expanded with its Vintage Jewellery Postcard Gifts, featuring earrings and bracelets, which are presented on tasteful 20s and 50s inspired vintage postcards with quotes from some favourite style icons of the time and ready to personalise with a message.

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JIYA Established: 2012 Product sector: Jewellery Designer background: While travelling in California, Jean Varakuta and her daughter Nicky were inspired by the beach lifestyle and decided to transform their passion for eclectic, handmade jewellery into their own brand Jiya, which means “piece of my heart”.

Signature style: The focus is on high-quality, luxe friendship bracelets that translate from the beach to urban city living. The duo curates, sources and designs a large collection of silver and hand-woven bracelets from around the world, ensuring that no bracelet is identical and creating a distinct artisan feel. Bold, vibrant colours accentuate the look.

Collection: Each bracelet is woven with 22-carat gold vermeil, pure silver beads and hand-dyed vibrantly colourful threads. There are over 12 styles available in four distinct categories – Neons, Silver, Jiya Gold label and Havana’s. Within each category, bracelets can be woven in over 50 colours, with the exception of Havana’s, which are hand-beaded and come in 20 colour options.

Future plans: The brand is planning to grow organically within high-end independents and department stores, as well as evolve the label further.

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38 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH/APRIL 2014

ACCESSORIES —

ALL THE SMALL THINGS BULAGGI

JOHN & PEARL

Bulaggi’s latest collection comprises three themed ranges.

Striking Loud is true to its name, featuring fur, stripes, buckles, studs and a vivid colour scheme.

Lady-like and stylish, Sentiment is inspired by the art of painting.

Finally, feminine Silence consists of bags in pastel colours and luxurious materials, from suede to fur.

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Inspired by “otherworldly universes and post-apocalyptic sunsets”, John & Pearl’s a/w 14 range is its fourth to date. The line includes collar-length necklaces and bracelets in ominous, stormy colours. Each piece comprises a chain bound with grosgrain ribbon and studded with geometric Swarovski stones, in keeping with the brand’s signature statement aesthetic.

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MELANO

COVERT

Designed for “fashion-savvy women who crave versatility”, Melano’s latest offer features an extensive palette of metallic, pastel and jewel colours. As usual, the whole range is interchangeable, and wearers can create a new look by screwing different gems onto their base ring, necklace, earring or bracelet.

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Covert’s debut collection is all about understated luxe.

Striking a balance between classic and contemporary, it features elegant cases for mobile phones and tablet technology.

Highlights include laser-cut leather, brushed canvas, herringbone tweed and microfibre linings.

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RENUSH

SOKO

Comprising cuffs, clutches and moulded leather corset belts, Renush’s latest range is inspired by the punk era. Animal prints, nickel studs and heavy buckles reflect this theme, while an understated colour palette of tans and black lets the brand’s high-quality leather do the talking. Designer Renata Koch has a strong eco-fashion policy, and each piece is crafted in the UK. —

Soko’s inaugural collection was designed and crafted by Kenyan artisans. Fringe necklaces, triple-strand bracelets and Maasai half-moon pendants are among its stand-out pieces, while horn, brass and beads figure prominently.

The innovative brand strives to connect online consumers to global makers, ensuring that its artisans are treated fairly.

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ACCESSORIES —

Accessories not only finish off an outfit, but are also essential add-on sales for retailers. WWB takes a look at some of the brands and products sure to lift your in-store offer.

SUZIE BLUE

MIMI BERRY

Suzie Blue’s most recent offer features scarves, necklaces and bracelets at sensible price points. The wholesale brand works closely with artisan manufacturers, and each piece is hand-finished and ethically sourced.

Buyers can expect multi-beaded cuffs, spiral snake bracelets and feather and diamante stud necklaces.

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Mimi Berry’s latest collection features two stand-out leather bags – the Minerva and the Hebe. Both designs are sharp-cornered and well-structured, in line with current trends. British-made, they reflect the brand’s strict utilitarian aesthetic, and are available in tan, poppy red, sea green and pale aqua.

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ELIZA GRACIOUS

JAYLEY COLLECTION

British brand Eliza Gracious celebrates its second birthday with a collection of high-fashion bracelets and pendant necklaces.

Its bright colour palette is complemented by classic materials, from plaited leather to waxed cord. Retailers can expect daintier pieces, an expanded heart range, and a larger selection of last-season’s bestselling freshwater pearls.

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Fur specialist JayLey Collection presents a range of elegant scarves, hats, capes, ponchos and accessories this season.

Highlights include fur-trimmed gloves, delicate silk shawls and faux-fur snoods.

Premium materials are key, with leather, fox fur and pure silk featuring heavily.

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MISS MILLY

LIEBESKIND

Featuring scarves, enamel bracelets, earrings and pendant necklaces, Miss Milly’s most recent collection is a typically colourful affair. Shades of blue, delicate florals and animal prints are key, while bold motifs lend its floaty, feminine scarves a fashion-forward edge.

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German brand Liebeskind is revisiting its roots this season. Trademark styles are available in new shapes, while timeless classics have been given a feminine makeover. The range comprises five styles, including elegant Antic, sporty, used-look Double Dyed and feminine Coated Canvas. Available in ruby red, taupe, spice and midnight blue, debutante Faballa is a versatile everyday bag.

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REVIEW —

MODA BESTSELLERS WWB SUMS UP THE BESTSELLING STYLES AND KEY TRENDS FROM LAST MONTH’S MODA WOMAN. — BRAX

TRENDS

James Lakeland, owner, James Lakeland LATTE Continuing its design-driven focus, Latte once again presented a strong collection of separates, each with an individual touch and detailing. Knitwear pieces such as this chic cardigan with fur panels were among the season’s bestsellers, as was the brand’s monochrome jackets with animal inspired dots.

Wholesale prices on request.

— POMODORO Faux sheepskin gilets were referenced in most collections this season and, unsurprisingly, Pomodoro’s version (wholesale price £30) proved to be a bestseller for the brand. Its two-in-one top, part of the brand’s Made in Britain range, which uses British manufacturers, was also a favourite within the range.

Wholesale price £22.

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MONOCHROME Monochrome is still going strong for a/w 14, whether as plain colour blocking, black vs white or graphic patterns as well as polka dots and stripes or all mixed into one. Houndstooth and black and white checks also featured heavily.

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Mado et Les Autres

“Retailers are much more optimistic, probably the most they have been in four or five years. They are buying noticeably more confidently again – even our shearling coats wholesaling at £800 are selling”

Steilmann

Brax made its debut at Moda Woman, with the trouser and knitwear specialist impressing with a versatile and wearable collection. Bestsellers included these skinny trousers with tonal jacquard finish in a stretch denim and the cardigan in a cashmere and merino wool mix.

Wholesale prices £35.50 and £56.50 respectively.

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STATEMENT COATS The cocoon coat may have dominated shapes this winter, but that’s not to say that outerwear elsewhere was boring.

On the contrary – statement coats in all guises were big news for a/w 14.

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REVIEW — MICHAELA LOUISA

TRENDS

James Lakeland

Michaela Louisa once again offered the perfect mix of daywear dresses and more elegant occasionwear styles. This velvet sequin dress wholesales at £64 and was among this season’s bestsellers. Also key was the dogtooth dress, which wholesales for £64.

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CRISTINA GAVIOLI Italian brand Cristina Gavioli impressed with a chic and elegant collection that offers a diverse mix of styles that could be dressed up or down. This stylish cardigan (wholesale price £50) and on-trend cocoon coat (wholesale price £99) proved to be among the buyers’ favourites at the show.

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COCOON COATS Having trickled down from the catwalks into the mainstream, cocoon coats and other oversized counterparts led the outdoor trends this season.

Their loose shapes and relaxed style made for a fresh and versatile take on a winter classic.

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Steilmann struck a balance between trend-led design and wearability, making for a strong contemporary collection. Its knee-length, cocoon-shaped boucle coat (wholesale price £64) referenced one of the biggest trends of the season, while the boiled wool jacket with metallic-effect coating (wholesale price £43) was as eye-catching as it was versatile.

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“The show has been great for us once again. The mood in the trade has been more upbeat, and buyers are seeking out items with that wow factor instead of just being driven by price” Joy Redfern, agent, Elisa Cavaletti and Leo Guy ELISA CAVALETTI Over at Elisa Cavaletti, the brand managed to present yet again an original collection with an individual touch. The black bubble-effect padded biker jacket, also available in off-white, was among the stand-out pieces (wholesale price £145), as was the wave woven striped bright knit cardigan, available in four colourways, wholesaling at £63.

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Mado et Les Autres

STEILMANN

METALLICS Always a popular choice in autumn/winter collections, metallics featured heavily across most product groups – from knits through outerwear to trousers – providing instant glam and a luxurious lift.

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“Retailers are a lot more selective and have really planned their spend this season – which is to be expected – but they are also a lot more optimistic overall. Hopefully, as an industry, we have turned a corner” Noreen Puri, owner, Pomodoro

>>>

42 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH/APRIL 2014

REVIEW — BIANCA Bianca’s collection offered the perfect balance between relaxed daywear styles and pieces that were inspired by the main trends of the season. This wool coat with faux-leather piping, wholesaling at £37.50, and the faux-fur waistcoat in hazelnut, cost price £37.50, were among the bestsellers.

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“As a newcomer to Moda, I have been positively surprised by the quality of buyers I have seen and the orders we have taken.

Buyers definitely want newness and are no longer playing it so safe. This can only be a good thing for brands” Anne-Lydia Halewood, agent, Brax

JAMES LAKELAND

“The market seems to have returned to confidence this season.

We’ve had a really strong show and, most importantly, have opened new accounts in addition to existing business, which has been very positive” Michael Black, co-owner, Premier Fashions

LEO GUY New to Moda Woman, French brand Leo Guy specialises in knitwear. The label’s blue, grey and black knit twinset with beaded applique (wholesale price £69) and animal tribal influenced sweater (wholesale price £47) instantly proved a hit with buyers at the show.

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TRENDS

Elisa Cavaletti

Outerwear was particularly strong at James Lakeland this season. The brand’s Drania Coat with mixed faux-fur front panel and cuff detail was one of the showstoppers, wholesaling at £90. Meanwhile, the black and white print coat with padded collar and five-button fastening (wholesale price £74) was also a bestseller.

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LIME A little bit of colour pop amid the black and creams of the season came in the shade of lime, which stood out as a key colour. Knitwear, outerwear and tops in particular applied this fruity shade to full effect.

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At French brand Mado et Les Autres, on-trend designs sat alongside timeless investment pieces that will work season after season. These metallic-effect trousers, wholesaling at £35, tapped into one of the key trends of the season, while the stylishly casual and yet chic M jumper (wholesale price £33) was also a favourite.

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Crush

MADO ET LES AUTRES

FUR Whether fake or real, fur once again proved a key ingredient in most collections, most notably as gilets or boxy jackets and mid-length coats. Fur trims also popped up across the ranges, adding a luxe feel.

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44 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH/APRIL 2014

MODA SEMINARS —

DOWN TO

BUSINESS Last month’s Moda hosted a number of live seminars from high-profile industry speakers, providing retailers with sound advice on issues ranging from e-commerce through social media, to effective marketing. WWB sums up some of the key points.

— • Driving sales • Product range and visual merchandising • Driving traffic • Retaining customers Make it last • Do you know your customer retention?

• Do you have a regular monthly customer communication programme?

• Is there a referral process in place that works?

• Do you have a system in place to capture customer details for your database?

GROWING YOUR EXISTING BUSINESS AND IMPROVING SALES Retailing today has moved to a new level with the development of multi-channel retailing.

Customers expect to be able to shop on their terms, when and where they want.

Most retailers believe that increasing traffic both in-store and online will solve their sales problems, and in some cases this is correct.

However, the majority of retailers can achieve a 15-25 per cent increase in sales through their existing business by improving conversion rate, average sale, and items per sale.

Research shows that the retailers that drive sales in their existing business first, and drive new customers second, will achieve a double-digit sales improvement. Those that concentrate only on driving new customers will achieve low single-digit increases.

To achieve your business vision, the following is a proven model that will help you on the way. Ask yourself the following questions: Make it clear (What would your business be like if it was running perfectly?)

• What do you want your business to achieve (turnover and profit)?

• Why should people buy from you?

• What type of staff do you need to deliver the experience you expect your customers to receive?

• Who are your target customers?

Make it real (Which areas are great, and which do you need to improve?)

• How strong is your vision and passion to achieve your business vision?

• What do you do that is working, and what do you need to keep doing?

• What is not working, and what do you need to work better?

• What do you need to start doing?

• What should you stop doing?

• Do you have a business dashboard to track your business performance?

Make it happen (Where do you need more “know-how” to deliver a better result?)

As a profession, retail is one of the best to be a part of. Like all professions, you need to keep reviewing where you are good and where you need to get better. As the way customers interact with retailers changes, you need to know what you must start doing and what you should stop. RPS captures what the “best of the best” are doing and how all retailers can learn from their experiences.

One thing is consistent in our research; it is the business owner’s responsibility to create a performance environment where people want to turn up and provide outstanding service every time with every customer. An environment with well-coached staff who are held accountable for sales targets that are tracked and followed up.

— DENNIS REID is chairman of Retail Performance Specialists. He can be contacted on 01344 849397 or visit www.rps-global.com.

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MARKETING MADE SIMPLE Ultimately, the purpose of yours or any business is to create and keep customers and, without marketing, the fact that you believe you have a great place to shop with great products and offers might go unnoticed.

So much marketing activity does not get a return on investment, or there is no measure of any success. We therefore advise our clients to follow a simple six-stage process before any investment in websites or brochures or advertising or social media is made.

The process considers the following points, and it’s worth

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MODA SEMINARS —

taking the time to think about and pinpoint exactly where your business is heading and how you are going to achieve it.

1. Where is your business now?

What has worked for you previously in your marketing?

2. What are your objectives?

Is your aim to have more customers, more turnover, and by when?

3. Who or what is your competition?

Analysis of what makes your competitors successful or not 4. How are you different from your competition?

Why should a customer buy from you?

5. Who are your target clients?

Geography or demographics or spending power 6. Communications to reach your targets At this stage, once you have your message and your differentiator from your competition, you can think about the methods to reach your target audience.

Follow this process and ensure your strategies enable you to remain ahead of the competition and attract customers whose loyalty will be the foundation of a successful venture.

— SIMON SHEPHERD is founder of marketing agency Client Marketing. Visit www.clientmarketing.co.uk, tweet @clientmarketyks or email info@clientmarketing.co.uk.

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3. Build your blog Great retail blogs create an in-store experience for customers, with detailed information on products. They build an engaged community that shares content with friends. Blogs that do this well include Catwalk Queen and Asos.

4. Create an editorial calendar Make a list of key dates for the year (product launches, event trade shows, holidays and sporting events) and include seasons, themes, products featured and target reader segments. Assign a post to each, with titles, accompanying keywords and a call to action. Use a Google spreadsheet to map these against each month, and assign authors and deadlines.

5. Ideas for content For fresh content, subscribe to competitors’ blogs, industry news and professional bodies, keep notes of customer questions, invite guest blogs and write about your passions. I carry a voice recorder with me for when new ideas arise – others prefer a journal.

6. Writing great blog posts • Understand your audience – B2B or B2C? What age? What income bracket? What are they interested in? What problems do they have that you can solve?

• Tell a story – Include a clear beginning (introduce topic and grab readers’ attention), middle (list of tips, describe a problem and funny story etc) and end (how to solve problem and what to do next).

• Include a Call to Action (CTA) – What should the reader do next?

Fill in a form, subscribe to the blog, buy a product, follow you on Twitter and Facebook?

• Keywords – Discreetly place these within the text so they are not obvious. Keyword stuffing is a no-no with Google. For SEO, a good blog should be 650-850 words long with one to two per cent keyword density.

— JONNY ROSS is founder and owner of website development, SEO and social media agency Jonny Ross Consultancy. Visit www.jonnyross.com or call 0113 320 2121 for more information.

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BLOGGING TO THE TOP OF GOOGLE AND POWERING YOUR SOCIAL MEDIA CAMPAIGNS

GETTING INTO E-COMMERCE

Customers demand detailed information and great photos.

They search for content about products before purchasing.

Savvy retailers are blogging to attract customer attention, engage with customers, overcome barriers to purchase and entice them to buy. Blogs give you a platform to educate, build trust, and provide content for your social media sites.

Too many companies decide to get into e-commerce without understanding what’s involved and how to do it properly, and then wonder why it’s hard to get sales and why they are not recovering their development costs.

Understanding a few things about launching an e-commerce website can make a big difference between success and failure.

Here are six steps to building a great blog: 1. Search engine optimisation (SEO) audit SEO is about getting search engines to rank your website highly in results when customers type in search terms (keywords) that relate to your products or services. Check your website’s current SEO performance with an audit. Your audit should include both online (keywords, content, technical and usability aspects of your website) and offline (links, reviews, reputation management and relevancy) activities.

2. Keyword research Keywords should inform your website content, product descriptions, page titles and meta descriptions. To create a list of keywords, use Google Webmaster tools (optimisation > content keywords) and Google Analytics (traffic sources > search > organic) plus your products and services list. SemRush.com allows you to see what keywords your competitors are ranking on.

1. Plan, plan and plan again If you don’t plan things from the start, don’t be surprised if you go off track and end up taking longer than needed, overspend on development and end up with less than you wanted. You need to plan the best way for your customers to use and navigate through your website, what customers are trying to achieve on each page they land on, and what functionality the website will need. If customers are going to be able to search for products by their features, such as colours or sizes, you have to define what information you need to collect for each product. Think about who customers will call to place orders, how those orders will be entered, and what confirmation emails are going to be sent to customers.

Then there is all the operational stuff. Will you hold stock of everything, or will some products be shipped directly from the supplier? If so, are you going to manage every purchase order that this generates, or will the website send an automated purchase order >>>

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MODA SEMINARS —

email to the supplier when the customer places their order? Will the website integrate with your stock forecasting system?

2. Content is king However long the website development takes, it will take several times longer for you to organise all the content, such as copy for the pages, images of products, descriptions of products, product data, online terms and conditions. Everyone underestimates how long this is going to take. My rule of thumb is that the technical development takes around 20 per cent of the time and the content around 80 per cent. So work out who is going to write the content, and plan the time for them to do it. Once you have a website, you still need visitors, and when they get there they must convert (ie buy something).

Getting visitors is partly through SEO (Search Engine Optimisation).

The single biggest secret is to have great, fresh content that is unique, updated and solves your customers’ problems. And partly it is through activities such as online advertising, usually Google AdWords. Help on SEO and setting up AdWords campaigns is widely available.

The key to SEO is understanding your customers, and particularly what words and phrases they use to search for what you offer. Use this knowledge to make sure your website includes pages relevant to what your customers are seeking, and each page should talk about that topic with authority.

— DAVID ABBOTT is director of Insight Best Practice.

Visit www.insight-bp.co.uk or email david@insight.co.uk.

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RESPONSIVE WEB DESIGN AND MOBILE MARKETING TRENDS For a couple of years, marketers have reviewed mobile marketing trends, predicting the point whereby mobile search will overtake that of desktop.

It appears that 2014 will more than likely be that year. And with 58 per cent of the UK population owning a smartphone and many consumer sites receiving circa 30 per cent of their traffic via mobile devices, the importance of mobile cannot be ignored.

So how on point are we when it comes to having user-friendly, responsively designed mobile sites? Statistically speaking, the answer is – not all that well. According to a recent study carried out by Econsultancy.com, it’s estimated that around 80 per cent of brands still don’t have a mobile/responsive site. Yet the current statistics also tell us that 71 per cent of consumers regularly use their mobile devices to search for products, and 27 per cent are regularly using their mobiles to purchase products – very much reinforcing Google’s ZMOT theory.

What’s ZMOT? It’s Google’s Zero Moment of Truth – detailed in a book it published, entitled Winning The Zero Moment of Truth in 2011. Essentially, ZMOT is the moment when a consumer – inspired by advertising, PR, word of mouth or a good old-fashioned basic need – grabs their smartphone, tablet or laptop and starts

researching a product and service. When you consider the current statistics around the use of mobile, it’s impossible to deny that mobile doesn’t play an integral part in the Zero Moment of Truth – from the perspectives of web design and content marketing.

So let’s consider the first element – ie design If we assume that the ZMOT theory is worth some consideration – and that brand owners need to ensure they’re in the Zero Moment of Truth – what are the issues they face from a mobile perspective? The first and most obvious is that you need to have a mobile-friendly site.

Consumers are significantly more likely to leave your (mobile) site quickly if you don’t. Then you have a couple of choices. Either create a separate mobile site (likely using an “m” domain), or consider a responsive web design (RWD). Responsive web design isn’t a new concept in development terms. However, do bear in mind that 80 per cent of brands still aren’t using it.

What’s Responsive Web Design? It’s web design aimed at optimising the viewing experience across platform and device.

Removing the need for consumers to scroll, pan and muck around on their mobile devices – thus leaving it less likely for them to leave your site for a more user-friendly competitor site.

RWD is a more cost-effective way to tackle the issue of mobile.

Simply put, if you are in the market for a mobile site, and your desktop site could do with a kicking, RWD is a viable option whereby one main development project is carried out (with variations).

Having recently reviewed a selection of leading fashion brand sites, it’s obvious that the fashion industry has pulled up its mobile socks in the last 12 months. Having reviewed 10 sites, only one leading UK fashion brand has not yet made the leap to a mobile and responsive site.

A good example of responsive design best practice is the TK Maxx site: 1. It has retained the main brand image from the homepage and campaign creative 2. It has completely designed the navigation 3. It has kept the mobile version clean, simple and idiot-proof to navigate and browse for product Comparing this to the Next site, the discrepancies are obvious: 1. There has been no consideration made to multi-device display 2. No consideration has been made to the user. The site has simply been reformatted to fit the screen of an iPhone 4S. As a result, the subtly designed links (to product) are almost invisible on the four-inch screen From the consumer’s perspective, there is evidently no consideration towards the user experience (and the likely end result of having a disenfranchised consumer). In today’s landscape, where such large numbers of consumers are using mobile to search for products, can brand owners afford to ignore this? Ultimately the equation is simple: 1. Customer researches your product on mobile + customer has happy and fruitful experience = increased likelihood of buying product; or 2. Customer researches your product on mobile + customer has rubbish experience = ricochets off your site and buys from competitor site Mobile is playing a major role in e-commerce, however there’s evidently a much longer road ahead, as brand owners find the time (and investment) to develop their mobile propositions. But with 2014 looking like the biggest year to-date for mobile, it’s certainly time for businesses to consider the unarguable importance of mobile – and owning a share of voice in this space.

— MARTIN O’TOOLE is founder of branding and digital creative agency Fist of Fury. Visit www.wearefury.com or email tellmewhathappens@wearefury.com.

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LONDON FASHION WEEK —

HOT OFF THE CATWALK A round-up of the key looks from the runways at last month’s London Fashion Week.

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TEMPERLEY LONDON

ASHISH

JOHN ROCHA

JASPER CONRAN

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LONDON FASHION WEEK —

ROKSANDA ILINCIC

MATTHEW WILLIAMSON MARIOS SCHWAB

JONATHAN SAUNDERS

MARY KATRANTZOU

FELDER FELDER

50 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH/APRIL 2014

IN GOOD SHAPE WWB takes a look at the latest innovations in the shapewear market.

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NAOMI & NICOLE > Sensual Sheer, the latest collection from shapewear specialist Naomi & Nicole, is designed for contemporary customers who are keen to look their best. The brand’s Briefs and Thigh Slimmers feature sheer panels, Comfortable Firm control and a breathable Wonderful Edge silicone finish, which eliminates ride-up and unsightly lines. The range is available in varying control levels.

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SHAPEWEAR —

SIMONE PÉRÈLE Simone Pérèle developed its Top Model anti-cellulite shapewear collection after 10 years of extensive research. Designed to combat the dreaded “orange peel” effect, it sculpts, firms and creates a sleeker silhouette. The brand’s elegant shapers and bodies feature inbuilt micro-capsules, which help to flatten the stomach, sculpt the back and smooth the figure.

Coordinating accessories – from transparent straps to a Loved by You garter – are also available.

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< TRIUMPH Keen to provide its best ever fit this season, Triumph introduces new pieces enhanced with Novarel Slim® anti-cellulite fibres. The brand’s latest Shape Sensation collection comprises two key ranges – Aurora Sensation and Light Sensation. Featuring animal prints and light fabrics, Aurora is designed to tuck-in the tummy, flatten the bottom, trim the thighs and elevate the cleavage. Sister line Light Sensation features pieces in soft nylon micro-fibre, which is enriched with moisturising minerals.

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< CHANTELLE Dubbed Basic Shaping, Chantelle’s concise shapewear collection includes an Open Bust Body, a High-Waisted Thigh Slimmer and a High-Waisted Shaper. Each soft nylon-knit piece is clean cut and roll-resistant, with a two-tone finish at the waist for added femininity. Targeted support areas shape comfortably, flattening the stomach, slimming the waist and re-proportioning the whole figure.

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SHAPEWEAR — < ESBELT Gok Wan is a fan of Brazilian brand Esbelt, which has been creating shapewear for 35 years. Comprising corsets, vests and briefs, its latest collection is designed to create a slimmer, more defined silhouette. Stand-out pieces include the Bela Vest and the Ipanema Corset, which can be adjusted for a slacker or tighter fit.

Available in black or natural, its Bum Bum briefs feature Control Tummy Panels and Concealed foam-moulded bottom pads.

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MAIDENFORM Maidenform introduces a bold new shapewear collection this season, inspired by the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Fashion and Fantasy exhibit.

Power Slimmers is a range of High Waist Briefs and Thigh Slimmers in innovative, ultra-thin Smart Yarn fabric. The brand is also unveiling Smooth Comfort – the latest addition to its bestselling Comfort Devotion line. A smoothing, seam-free bra, the design features liquid satin fabrication, embedded wire stretch foam cups and a super-soft hook and eye.

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< MIRACLESUIT Miraclesuit’s Sexy Sheer shapewear collection is designed to flatter and streamline silhouettes. Each lightweight garment features two double-layer panels, which provide firm and comfortable control.

Highlights include the shaping Waistline Brief, the High Waist Slip and the Shaping Singlette, which smooths back bulges and lifts the bust.

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IMPLICITE Featuring panties, shorties, bodies, dresses and sculpting push-ups, Implicite’s Confidence collection has been designed to carry the wearer from day to night. Each clean-cut garment is available in comfortable, shaping Lycra beauty fabric, and can be worn invisibly under clothes. The High Brief is particularly effective, slimming the waist and stomach while lifting the bottom.

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COCOON > Designed to sculpt the silhouette without compromising comfort and mobility, Cocoon’s latest collection features a range of slimming undergarments.

Buyers can choose from bodysuits, briefs and shaping vests, complete with adjustable straps and lightweight fabrics.

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< BODY WRAP Soft, comfortable and elegant, Body Wrap’s latest shapewear collection is designed to help women look and feel their best.

In the wake of industry research, the brand has introduced unique cuts and panelling to its breathable undergarments. Each style offers different levels of control, enhancing some features while slimming others.

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RETAIL DIARY Running three bricks and mortars is hard work; buying well for those three specific customer groups is even harder. But experience helps and La Belle Femme has been dressing women for weddings and special occasions for over 40 years.

— It’s often the case that I have known the bride since she was a little girl, accompanying her mother on shopping visits; I’ll have seen her take her GCSEs, get her first boyfriend and graduate. Now she is getting married and her mother needs that special outfit.

It’s a quality unique to this sector and to indies like us that we can play this privileged role in people’s lives. It helps that this is a mother-daughter business, too. Many customers have been shopping with us since I was a young girl. I am now serving those ladies’ grandchildren and it’s lovely to be a part of that family’s journey. Running three shops requires huge organisation and a committed workforce that understands that personal service is the essence of our business.

I have always preached the mantra that if you are going to do something, do it well, and don’t spread yourself thinly. Mum and I spend a lot of our time running between the stores, shifting stock and meeting customers. But, as any business owner knows, nothing is more rewarding than a customer satisfied with your service.

We are aware that the bride receives virtual celebrity treatment when she chooses her dress. She receives a private appointment, brings her friends and has a glass of champagne. We feel that the mother of the bride deserves this same level of attention. It’s to be expected that a customer will visit other shops and do their research, so we make sure their experience here is memorable.

Maintaining such high standards in our buying is hard work, and we rely on the loyalty of our suppliers to enable us to deliver this. Recently, one of our biggest suppliers decided to supply a competitor of ours two miles away and this has hurt us a lot.

La Belle Femme philosophy is that the customer always comes first and that loyalty is everything.

Joanna Edwards is co-owner of La Belle Femme with stores in Tunbridge Wells, Chislehurst in Kent and Pimlico in London, and is a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB) www.fashionassociationof britain.co.uk.

FORUM —

RETAIL FORUM

The latest news from the industry —

PAMELA SHIFFER CELEBRATES 25TH ANNIVERSARY

CARNABY STREET HOSTS SHOPPING PARTY Over 100 fashion brands, retailers, restaurants and bars are uniting to create the ultimate shopping party on Thursday 1 May. Live Music, DJs, trend talks, a pop-up bar and 20 per cent off discounts on new season’s clothing will all form part of the biggest UK live event of its kind. Brands taking part include Scotch & Soda, American Apparel, Diesel, AQ/AQ Women’s, Barbour, Dr Martens, Paul Smith Soho, Cheap Monday, Lazy Oaf, The Kooples, Eleven Paris, Vans and independents such as Other, Dahlia and F Troupe.

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London indie Pamela Shiffer is celebrating its 25th anniversary this month. Having started trading in 1989, Pamela Shiffer, owner of the eponymous store, quips “she’s seen it all”, and says she never expected the time to pass so quickly. Asked about the milestones of the store over the years, she says, “The highlights have been many, however I would say working with some inspiring people, nurturing wonderful customers, travelling the world in search of exciting new brands and loving being on the shop floor. Looking forward, I take each season at a time with feet firmly planted.” Shiffer will be celebrating the birthday with an in-store event next month.

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53 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH/APRIL 2014

FORUM —

HOW IMPORTANT IS SOCIAL MEDIA MARKETING IN DRIVING SALES? —

MAKEOVER EXPERIENCE Womenswear indie Experience, based in Fleet, Hampshire, underwent the next stage of a makeover last month, with the installation of a brand new shop front.

The stylish exterior now reflects the equally tasteful and sophisticated interior, with more tweaks and improvements planned over the next few months. Using its new front to maximum effect, the store installed a branded Elisa Cavaletti window display, giving a taster of its vast stock which, in addition to the Italian brand, also includes the likes of Gerry Weber, Michele, Olsen, Taifun, Frank Lyman and more.

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ACCENT BACKS LEEDS SINGER Leeds indie Accent Clothing has announced its official sponsorship of one of the city’s most talented, unsigned female artists – Bianca Gerald (pictured).

A long-standing customer of the 30-year-strong store, Accent Clothing felt it was only right to support Gerald on her musical journey. Gerald will be wearing a number of items from Accent’s womenswear selection, and has confirmed her appearance at the store’s 30th anniversary celebrations later on this year.

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MY FAVOURITE SHOP...

AIDA SHOREDITCH

by Julie Osborn, brand manager, Selected Femme

Aida Shoreditch 133 Shoreditch High Street, London E1 6JE Established: 2012 Owner: Helena Palmer Brands: Selected Femme, Minimum, Becksöndergaard, Miista, Bruns Bazaar, Eleven Paris, Noisy May, Twist & Tango “Aida offers so much more than clothing.

The store holds unique and exciting events for its customers, showcasing new music talents with cocktails in the café. The shop captures the creative energy of the area, and I am yet to find another boutique that offers this. It’s refreshing for customers to experience these events, especially within a retail environment. The lifestyle shop-fit with exposed brickwork, wooden floors, warm lighting and quirky furniture makes you feel instantly relaxed, as do the friendly and experienced staff.”

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REBECCA FURBANK Director, Anne Furbank, Cambridgeshire

“We do use social media, but I wouldn’t say it was a key driver.

It’s just one of a number of tools. We’ve got Twitter and Facebook, and we probably use them around three times a week. For us, they’re more a means of engaging with customers.”

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VICTORIA SUFFIELD Owner, The Hambledon, Winchester

“It’s a key driver of something, but perhaps not sales. We use social media a lot, but we don’t use it to do a hard sell. In terms of bringing actual customers into the store, we use stories on the website, email newsletters and social media together; we don’t think of them separately.”

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“While periodically IRYNA GRANT Owner, Alberre Odette, updating our blog, Twitter and Facebook London

does not always result in direct sales; it strengthens the relationship with our customers. They love keeping an eye on new arrivals, and using social media provides them with regular temptation, eventually bringing them to the store.”

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LAUREN FERGUSON “Social media is key to Owner/buyer, Sisters connecting with our clients, and they expect Boutique, Falkirk us to communicate regularly. It helps us drive sales without a doubt. We have Facebook, Twitter and Pinterest, and use them 24/7 to run competitions, post pictures and promote collections.”

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55 WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk — MARCH/APRIL 2014

PROMOTION —

THE ESSENTIAL RESOURCE FOR THE WOMENSWEAR INDUSTRY. —

wwb-online.co. online.co.uk online.co. o.uk Wwb-online.co.uk is the essential free business tool, bringing you industry advice, up-to-the-minute news, insightful features and trend information at the click of a button.

From the team behind WWB magazine, the website covers every aspect of the womenswear industry. Frequently updated news across a broad range of topics will help you keep your finger on the pulse, while a variety of unique content that complements WWB’s comprehensive industry and style reports brings you rounded, in-depth knowledge and information.

Brand spotlights, short-order specials and trend overviews are just some of the must-read features, all of which will aid your buying decisions and help enhance your in-store offer.

The Retail section provides further vital inspiration, covering everything from visual merchandising ideas to advice and suggestions from the brains behind some of the UK’s most successful independents. Articles in the People section focus on the movers and shakers across womenswear, to give you the inside track on what makes them tick and how they stay ahead of the game.

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MAKE WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK YOUR DAILY SOURCE OF ESSENTIAL FASHION INDUSTRY INFORMATION – IT’S ONLY A CLICK AWAY. — To advertise on wwb-online.co.uk call Lisa on 01484 846069 or email lisa.hardy@ras-publishing.com

NEWS Industry news that’s relevant to you, from new launches to trading predictions and business reports.

— RETAIL Want to explore multi-channelling in order to drive sales, learn more about the latest market research or gain inspiration for visual merchandising? You’ll find it all here – and it could prove highly profitable.

— BRANDS Useful profiles of familiar favourites and up-and-coming brands alike, along with broader features on their evolution, strategy and direction.

— OPINION Read what the experts think about current and ongoing issues affecting the industry – their insights could prove invaluable to your business.

— FEATURES Reports, interviews and brand profiles on the issues, industry figures and companies everyone wants to know about.

— EVENTS As well as previews and reviews, wwb-online.co.uk will keep you informed about the essential dates for your diary.

— BLOG WWB’s bloggers are passionate about the fashion industry and always have something interesting to say. Find out what’s getting them talking.

56 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH/APRIL 2014

DIRECTORY —

CARRIER BAGS

HEADWEAR

RAILS

WANTED



               

  

GARMENT STANDS   

              

Distributed by: Arctic Fox Unit 22, Watford Metro Centre, Tolpits Lane, Watford, Herts WD18 9UN Tel: 01923 210646 Email: info@bullseyeinternation.co.uk

SHOWCASES

MANNEQUINS

          

  

STEAMERS AND IRONS

HAT BOXES

 

                  

To advertise please call Lisa on

To advertise please call Lisa on

01484 846069

01484 846069

or email

or email

lisa.hardy@ras-publishing.com

lisa.hardy@ras-publishing.com

57 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH/APRIL 2014

DIRECTORY —

NAMES AND NUMBERS Age of Reason 07949 135573 www.age-of-reason-studios.com Aigle 020 3326 7331 www.aigle.com Alice Hannah 020 8943 9383 www.alicehannah.co.uk Bianca 020 7580 0085 www.bianca.de Bodywrap 01423 885374 www.patricia-eve.co.uk Brax 07768 762298 www.brax.com Bulaggi 0031 356212757 www.bulaggi.com Butterfly Twists 0845 519 6255 www.butterflytwists.com Caia of Sweden 07739 518701 www.caiaofsweden.com Cara 01491 872044 www.carawholesale.com Chantelle 01483 300880 www.chantelle.com Covert 0330 111 6700 www.covertaccessories.com Elisa Cavaletti 07876 333397 www.elisacavaletti.com Eliza Gracious 07767 785822 www.elizagracious.com Emma Go 020 7486 4800 www.emmago.com Gloa Sanve 020 8576 623 Implicite 020 8332 3060 www.implicite.com James Lakeland 020 7636 7130 www.jameslakeland.net Jayley Collection 0844 272 8969 www.jayleycollection.com Jiya Jewelry www.jiyajewelry.co.uk John & Pearl 07740 150224 www.johnandpearl.co.uk J Shoes 01858 468123 www.jshoesonline.co.uk Latte 0141 204 0699 www.latteclothing.com Leo Guy 07876 333397 www.leoguy.fr Liebeskind 020 8964 0482 www.liebeskind-berlin.com Love From Australia 01604 661700 www.lovefromaustralia.com Lovett & Co 01273 230114 www.lovettandco.co.uk Maidenform 0035 361474435 www.maidenform.com Melano 0151 482 5665 www.concept-jewellery.co.uk Michaela Louisa 020 8888 7000 www.michaelalouisa.com Mimi Berry 020 7729 6699 www.mimiberry.co.uk Miraclesuit 01423 885374 www.patricia-eve.co.uk Miss Milly 01905 622509 www.missmilly.co.uk Moda in Pelle 0113 200 7360 www.modainpelle.com Naomi & Nicole 01423 885374 www.patricia-eve.co.uk Pomodoro 020 8961 4000 www.pomodoroclothing.com Renush 07734 069869 www.renush.com Rocket Dog 020 7380 8340 www.rocketdog.co.uk Ruby Shoo 01992 769612 www.rubyshoo.com Simone Perele 020 8332 3060 www.simone-perele.co.uk Soko 0018 577569433 www.shopsoko.com Steilmann 020 7291 0522 www.steilmann.com Suzie Blue 01636 704042 www.suziebluejewellery.co.uk Thierry Rabotin www.thierryrabotin.com Tracey Neuls 020 7935 0039 www.traceyneuls.com Triumph www.uk.triumph.com

To subscribe to WWB simply call us on: +44 (0)1484 846069 or visit wwb-online.co.uk.

EU £75 (includes p&p)

Outside EU £146 (includes p&p)

58 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — MARCH/APRIL 2014

UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL —

DANIELLE RYAN The actress, philanthropist and founder of Roads talks about the concept behind the fragrance and lifestyle brand.

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You’ve got a strong arts background – what prompted you to launch Roads?

I always wanted to create a brand like Roads – a cultural label that would allow me to curate interesting concepts and promote them on a bigger platform, based around fragrances, movies and books. My background is in business and arts, and Roads gives me the opportunity to engage with both these interests – to remove one would feel like something is missing from my life. I guess, more importantly, I created Roads in order to surround myself with the things that fascinate me.

What is the philosophy behind Roads?

To create practical products inspired by art and modern culture. The brand is based around clear design with no subliminal marketing message (thus the white packaging), and filtering interesting subject matter into those designs.

What part does the perfumery play?

The three Roads companies are completely independent and equally important to the Roads Group. They all provide different platforms that allow us to communicate our philosophy with our customers in different ways. Roads Fragrances is exciting because it is launching on a truly global platform. This has been made possible by our partnership with the excellent team at Intertrade Europe SRL. What is the concept of the ten fragrances?

A lot of what we do at Roads is about storytelling. The perfumes tell stories – stories you might want to have others perceive about your personality or stories that act as gentle reminders to yourself. So the Roads fragrances have a unique story or concept that they were created around. Harmattan, for example, is the name of a wind that crosses the Sahara. White Noise is based on technology.

You are launching the Roads Fragrances range exclusively in Selfridges, before a roll-out to other high-end stores and boutiques.

What are your plans for the line?

We are looking forward to launching our collection of ten fragrances in April. These will be followed in the near future by a brand new collection of ten candle fragrances.

INSIDER: Who is your style icon?

I admire so many people for so many different elements of their style. I don’t have any particular style icon. I respect anyone who is individual.

For example, I admire Sophia Copolla for her genuine excellence and the style that comes through in her work.

— Which fashion business do you admire?

I admire any fashion brand that can adapt and reinvent itself based on its customer and the influences it can absorb around it.

— What’s the best piece of industry advice you’ve ever been given?

Get on with it.

— What’s the one fashion item you can’t live without?

Black stilettos.

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