WWB MAGAZINE FEBRUARY ISSUE 244 by fashion buyers Ltd

FEBRUARY 2015, ISSUE 244 £6.95 — WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK WOMENSWEAR BUYER

— BEST IN SHOW Comprehensive guide to a/w 15 at Moda —

— ALL ABOUT ANNA The premium retailer’s diversification into own-label —

— POSTCARD FROM BERLIN The season as seen in the German capital last month —

— THAT 70S VIBE A/w 15 style takes a retro direction —

07 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

CONTENTS —

FEBRUARY 2015

REGULARS

FEATURES

FASHION

09 EDITOR’S COMMENT — 10 NEWS — 24 BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear — 26 TALKING POINT — 110 RETAIL FORUM The latest news from the industry — 114 UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL With Closet designer Wendy Wilson — COVER: ULDAHL —

19 INSIDE SCOOP’S TWO SHOW CONCEPT Interview with founder Karen Radley — 30 AUTUMN’S SHOWCASE Brands highlight their key seasonal pieces — 34 Q&A With Julian Dunkerton, co-founder of Superdry — 47 NEW ERA OF THE EAST Ronen Chen’s new direction for autumn — 50 REALMS OF CREATIVITY Premium retailer Anna reveals its wholesale plans — 52 MOVING ON UP LYDC’s ambitious new plans — 106 LIFE THROUGH A LENS On location with Lily & Me —

38 STYLE FILE — 44 FASHION RADAR — 54 SEVENTIES HEAVEN Womenswear takes on a seventies edge this a/w 15 — 73 AUTUMN/WINTER 2015 AT MODA Comprehensive guide to the exhibition — 97 WHAT’S THE OCCASION? Eveningwear and occasionwear trends for a/w 15 — 108 THE BERLIN EDIT The season as seen at the German capital’s key trade shows —

09 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

COMMENT —

FEBRUARY 2015

Acting Editor Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — Contributors Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com — Sub editor Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — Editorial assistant Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com — Design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — Sales manager Sam Chambers sam@ras-publishing.com — Subscriptions Laura Martindale laura.martindale@ite-exhibitions.com — Editorial director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — Portfolio director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie.parker@ite-exhibitions.com — Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com — Reprographics/printing ImageData Group 01482 652323

— WWB is published 9 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 — Copyright © 2015 WWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication. —

RAS Publishing is an ITE Group PLC company A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication WWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include MWB and CWB.

THE NEWS THAT TESCO IS CLOSING STORES NATIONWIDE IS A SOBERING REMINDER OF HOW EVEN THE MIGHTIEST OF RETAIL GIANTS ARE NOT IMMUNE TO THE EVER-CHANGING INDUSTRY. — From clothing to homeware, there was a time when supermarket giant Tesco looked set to take over every aspect of the retail sector. Convenience was king, and customers seemingly rejoiced in buying their shoes and clothing alongside their weekly grocery shop. Just a few years later, however, the news has come that Tesco is closing 43 stores nationwide and halting expansion plans across the country. For anyone in retail, the loss of more jobs in the sector is of course a sad reminder of the ongoing tough conditions. But the fall of Tesco from its one-time position as a near-monopoly of all aspects of retail is indicative of an evolving consumer who is perhaps moving back towards a speciality shopping. Customers have realised that one size shop does not fit all. The increasing popularity of value food stores such as Aldi suggests that consumers are buying everyday groceries separately to their special occasion food and, more importantly, their shoes from a shoe shop and their clothes from a clothes shop. It’s more reason than ever for the independents who have managed to

weather the storm to stand up and prove just why they are best-placed to offer the best product at the best price with the best service. As the industry moves into the a/w 15 buying season, it’s a chance once again to seek out that must-have collection that will define the season when autumn rolls around once again. This issue brings you a comprehensive guide to Moda as well as an initial look at the season as seen in Berlin last month. Once again, brands have upped their game for autumn, improving fabrics and detailing for a heightened focus on quality that truly sets branded fashion apart from its high street competitors. As always, I look forward to seeing you there. Christina Williams, acting editor.

NEWS —

10 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — FEBRUARY 2015

ONGOING COLD SNAP DRIVES WINTER SALES Retailers hold off discounting accordingly. —

Retailers across the nation have delayed their winter sales in light of the ongoing cold snap, but are urging suppliers to adapt their delivery times in line with the ever-changing seasons. This month’s unseasonably cold weather – which has seen snow across the North and temperatures plummeting to below zero nationwide – has driven demand for winter lines, helping retailers to delay discounting until mid-January onwards. “We have only just discounted the winter coats that we had left,” says Nikki Anthony, director at womenswear independent Wardrobe in Great Dunmow, Essex. “The cold weather has been very welcome when you think how warm it was in November and, despite going into sale as normal in the first week of January, we kept some cosy knitwear at full price and it has nearly all gone.” Mark Hurley – owner of independent young fashion chain Hurley with stores in Bolton and Wigan – agrees that the cold snap allowed him to hold off discounting for longer than usual after the Christmas period. “We normally reduce heavier winter clothing and footwear more aggressively,” he says. “But we held back and made better margins, with jackets and winter shoes selling particularly well for us throughout January.”

Retailers have, however, urged suppliers to adapt their delivery schedules in line with the ever-changing meteorological conditions, which often see cold spells arriving later and later throughout the winter season. “Fashion does need to change,” says Adriana Green, co-owner of Scarecrow Boutique in London’s Crouch End. “The weather simply no longer reflects what and when to buy; shops have winter coats in from August when the weather is still good and spring collections arriving in January when it’s freezing cold – it doesn’t make sense any more.” For Adriana Green and co-owner Susanna Coop, topping up and buying in season is the preferred method for combating unpredictable seasons, and it’s an approach they are planning replicate for a/w 15. “We have to make sure we carry stock for all weathers and occasions so people will make the effort to shop with us,” says Green. “We also buy stock on a weekly basis so that we can react accordingly.” For other retailers, meanwhile, transitional pieces are the answer to delivery times that are simply incongruous with the weather outside. “We are selling such a mixture of product at the moment, and it can be a

“We have to make sure we carry stock for all weathers and occasions so people will make the effort to shop with us”

tricky balance to get the right product in at the right time,” says Deryane Tadd, owner of The Dressing Room in St Albans, Hertfordshire. “We do find, however, that most customers do like to get into the new season frame of mind, so our transitional pieces are doing well with lightweight knits, sweats and tees in spring colours emerging as our bestsellers teamed with new-season scarves – it’s a very wearable look no matter what the weather is doing.”

11 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

NEWS —

FEBRUARY 2015

NEW FUNDING FOR SCOTTISH DESIGNERS

POSSIBLE SALE FOR BHS Iconic British high-street store BHS could be sold following losses of £21m last year. The performance of the store – which is owned by Arcadia – has been blamed for an overall fall of three per cent in Arcadia profits, and talks are reportedly under way to sell the chain as a result. The chain has over 180 stores nationwide, spanning womenswear, menswear, childrenswear and homeware. The retailer was bought by Arcadia in 2000 for £200m. According to independent retail analyst Nick Bubb, it is no surprise that Arcadia’s chairman Sir Philip Green is considering the options available to him regarding the future of BHS. “The worrying losses at BHS now risk dragging down the whole of Arcadia so, after a difficult autumn season, it is not surprising that the great man is now trying to cut it loose,” he says. “BHS has clearly been driven into the ground by the relentless competition from Primark and by its own addiction to discounting, which has destroyed its pricing power.”

Zero Waste Scotland is offering funding to Scottish textile and apparel designers to help them reduce waste by adopting new methods to keep materials in a high-value state for as long as possible. The Circular Economy Textile and Apparel Fund is open to textile and apparel designers with a minimum of two years’ experience across performance, technical textiles and clothing, fashion and couture. Funding is available to support the prototyping of new textile design and construction techniques as well as to explore alternative fibres and materials, design assembly, resource efficient practices and discover new business models like the leasing or hiring out of products and services. Iain Gulland, chief executive of Zero Waste Scotland, says, “Recent research shows there are no truly circular textile products or services in Scotland, but the characteristics of our country’s textile industry – heritage, provenance, durability, globally recognised quality manufacturing and production – make it well placed to develop new ideas.” —

FURTHER SIGNINGS FOR MODA WOMAN Moda Woman has confirmed further new signings as the industry makes the final countdown to the event. Bernshaw (pictured) has confirmed that Moda Woman will be the platform from which it will unveil its new a/w 15 collection, which focuses on intense hues of teal, deep red, emerald and rich gold in flattering silhouettes. Other new signings include British label Louise Ross – a newly launched label that sources its fabrics from Yorkshire and fuses them with contemporary city styling – and Henry Arroway, a Spanish outerwear specialist. Moda will also welcome back regular exhibitors James Lakeland, Marble, Sahara, Steilmann and Lily & Me, presenting a comprehensive overview of the full spectrum of a/w 15 trends. The event is once again made up of sub-sectors Moda White and Moda Noir – which focus on directional and eveningwear collections respectively, alongside the core Moda Woman offer. Moda takes place at Birmingham’s NEC on 15-17 February. —

H&M PLANS 400 NEW STORES Swedish fashion retailer H&M has announced plans for 400 more stores following sales growth of 14 per cent over the past year. The retailer has revealed that its profits were up by seven per cent in the three months ending November 2014 alone, and that the extra revenue will be ploughed into the opening of further stores globally in 2015 and 2016. RETAILERS ON TRACK TO MEET ENVIRONMENTAL GOALS Retailers across the country are on track to meet ambitious voluntary targets to reduce the direct environmental impact of their operations, according to a new report released by industry body the British Retail Consortium. Under the Better Retailing Climate initiative, retailers committed to working with suppliers to lower their energy use and divert waste from landfill and have achieved a 13 per cent reduction in carbon emissions from retail operations ahead of the 25 per cent target to be achieved in 2020.

12 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

NEWS —

FEBRUARY 2015

NEW YEAR EXHIBITS STRONG RETAIL SALES According to the latest monthly Distributive Trades Survey from the Confederation of British Industry (CBI), retail sales have exceeded expectations, growing strongly in the year to January. The survey of 127 firms disclosed that while sales volumes grew at a slower pace than in the previous month – which benefited from Black Friday sales – the rate of growth remained healthy, and volumes were well above average for the time of year. Among the retail sub-sectors, growth was broad-based, although clothing reported the strongest rise in sales since February 2013. “After the sales bonanza of Black Friday cooled down, retailers saw solid footfall through the doors over the Christmas trading period, leading to further robust growth in sales in the New Year,” says Rain Newton-Smith, CBI director of economics. “Falling oil prices and low inflation mean consumers have more money in their pockets. We expect to see this translate into strong sales growth in the months ahead.” —

BEST OF BRITANNIA HEADS NORTH Following three successful editions in London, Best of Britannia (BOB), the consumer and B2B trade show for British brands, specialising in everything from fashion and fragrance through to food and drink, is launching BOB North. Taking place in the historic Post Office building and Market Square in Preston, Lancashire, BOB North will take place on 15-17 May 2015 and is organised in partnership with Marketing Lancashire and Preston City Council. BOB London, meanwhile, has a new venue for its next edition on 26-28 June 2015. Taking place at Nicholls and Clarke warehouse building and courtyard on Shoreditch High Street, it offers indoor and outdoor space, providing up to 40,000 sq ft of brand space for exhibitors. “I’ve been a fan of Best of Britannia since its inaugural event in 2012,” says renowned designer and BOB’s nonexecutive director, Wayne Hemingway. “BOB is hitting the zeitgeist with British manufacturing seeing a resurgence.” —

BOND STREET RETAIL DEVELOPMENT AND JOHN LEWIS Work on the Bond Street Retail Development in Chelmsford, including a John Lewis flexible format department store, began this week with a ceremony to mark the occasion. Set to open for autumn 2016, John Lewis Chelmsford will anchor the second phase of the Bond Street development in Chelmsford city centre, owned by Aquila. The scheme will include 20 retail units, providing a mix of shops, river-fronted restaurants and a cinema. John Lewis Chelmsford will offer the full John Lewis product assortment including fashion, beauty, electronics, home and nursery. It will provide 90,000 sq ft selling space split over three floors and will include a customer café. The store is the third flexible department store to be announced by the retailer following Exeter, which opened in 2012, and York, which opened last year. MORE CHOICE AT TEXTILE FORUM Textile Forum, the fashion fabric show taking place on 4-5 March 2015 at One Marylebone, London, is set to provide more choice than ever for designers sourcing luxury fabrics for both a/w 15-16 and s/s 16 collections. Over 50 collections will be on show at the forthcoming event, with Textile Forum exhibitors offering fabric for womenswear, menswear, childrenswear, lingerie, bridalwear and accessories. “Many of our exhibitors have increased the colour options within their staple collections so that buyers can rely on continuity of shade across many seasons, as well as introducing the new season’s must have tones such as bright blues, pinks and lilacs,” says Linda Laderman, Textile Forum’s co-founder and organiser. Among the exhibitors this season will be Holland & Sherry, AW Hainsworth, Bennett Silk, G H Leathers, linings specialist Bernstein & Banleys and button supplier Jones & Co.

HEART of FASHION MODA 15-17 February 2015 NEC Birmingham. Register online at moda-uk.co.uk

Woman

Lingerie & Swimwear

Accessories

Gent

Footwear

14 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

NEWS —

FEBRUARY 2015

GERRY WEBER ACQUIRES HALLHUBER Womenswear brand Gerry Weber has acquired fellow German label Hallhuber following its fall into administration. Both the Hallhuber and Hallhuber Donna brands will continue to operate as standalone labels within the Gerry Weber portfolio, but will benefit from the company’s logistical and operational expertise. The move comes as part of a wider strategy by Gerry Weber to increase its appeal to a larger consumer demographic, and its specific plans to target a younger clientele. The brand has also revealed plans to make its first foray into menswear. “The Gerry Weber Group has its own retail spaces in almost all European countries, and we will team up with Hallhuber as partners in a professional way in order to support them in building their own network of company-managed retail spaces, especially outside Germany,” says chief sales officer Ralf Weber, managing board member in charge of sales and company development throughout the Gerry Weber Group. —

MISSONI OPENS PARIS FLAGSHIP Italian fashion house Missoni has opened a new flagship store in Paris at 219 Rue Saint-Honoré, which will carry the brand’s women’s, men’s and girls’ collections. The boutique, which boasts 300 sq m spread over two floors, has two entrances – one on Rue Saint-Honoré and the other on Rue d’Alger. Inside, Missoni’s tones and textures are applied in various ways to the materials – wood, Alicrite, metal and fabric – to create a unique space in which technology and tailoring merge. The outcome is a luxurious collage of stripes, zig-zags and expanded motifs interpreted on walls and ceilings. —

FORTHCOMING ASBCI CONFERENCE: THE FIT FACTOR Experts from across the industry have been drafted in to discuss a variety of topics across tailoring, lingerie, childrenswear, plus-size fashion and more, for the forthcoming ASBCI (Association of Suppliers to the British Clothing Industry) fashion industry conference. Set to tackle the topic of size and fit, the The Fit Factor – World class wisdom on fashion sizing and fit’ conference will take place on 5 March 2015 at the Peterborough Marriott Hotel. Aiming to help fashion professionals transform negative consumer perception of fashion sizing and fit, the conference will include a Savile Row master class in the fundamental practice of taking accurate fit measurements for men and women. In addition, experts from apparel fit consultancies, retail, manufacturing and technology will deliver “best practice” solutions to mass production versus made-to-order dilemmas, and niche product issues. —

RETAIL LOTTERY LAUNCHES Industry charity the Retail Trust will launch its biggest ever fundraising initiative this month with the introduction of Retailwinners. Dedicated to those working in the retail sector, the lottery will offer prizes of up to £5,000, with all proceeds going towards the Trust’s charitable work with employees of the industry past and present. “We are incredibly excited about our latest fundraising initiative,” says Michael Green, development director at Retail Trust. “This lottery is our way – and the retail industry’s way – of giving back to those who work so hard to make this industry successful. We are offering them an exclusive lottery that allows workers to fund help and assistance for others in their industry, as well as having a chance to win the jackpot for themselves. It’s a 1 in 135 chance of winning, which sounds like good odds to me.” The lottery will launch on 20 February, and those in the sector can enter at retailtrust.org.uk. CRIME COSTS TO RETAILERS AT RECORD HIGH LAST YEAR Last year saw the cost of crime to retailers soar to £603m, breaking the previous record of £600m set in 2011. The rise – reported by the British Retail Consortium, following its annual crime survey – was attributed to a rise in the value of each incident of theft, rather than a rise in the number of offences. Specifically, the industry body estimates that average cost of each incident was around £241 – up a staggering amount from £45 just five years ago, and indicative of a new phenomenon of thieves specifically targeting more high-ticket items. As a result of the perceived increase in the threat of crime, a third of retailers reported that they will be investing even more into crime prevention over the next two years. “Criminal activity against retailers continues to have wide-ranging consequences for businesses, employees and the vast majority of honest shoppers,” says the BRC’s director general Helen Dickinson.

F.O.S Fashion Marketing, 4th floor Morley House, 320 Regent Street, London W1B 3BF Tel: 020 7637 7111 E: info@fosfashion.co.uk

Contact: Chris Foster-Orr / Lindsey Brown Cicely Brown

Selling dates A/W 15 Programme 1 - 13th January to 5th February Programme 2 - 8th February to 5th March

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;not like other German brandsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

F A S H I O N

S C O O P 2 - 4

A U G U S T

2 0 1 5

S a a t c h i G a l l e r y, L o n d o n | s c o o p - i n t e r n a t i o n a l . c o m ÂŠ Maria Rivans, Carina, Limited edition print available at saatchistore.com

S H O W S

19 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

PREVIEW —

FEBRUARY 2015

INSIDE SCOOP’S TWO SHOW CONCEPT From summer this year, a new concept for Scoop will see not one but two shows taking place at the Saatchi Gallery each season. Show founder Karen Radley looks ahead to the next events in August and September, and talks to WWB about the thinking behind the move. —

WWB: Running four shows a season is a bold move for any exhibition. How did the new concept come about? Karen Radley: Ever since the launch of Scoop there have been brands we’ve wanted to bring to London that couldn’t take part because we were too early for them. A lot of American and Italian brands, for example, just don’t have their collections ready for the end of July or beginning of August. At the same time some of our higher-end collections, and also young British designers, had talked to us about moving the show later to run during London Fashion Week (LFW). These conversations have been going on for seasons but, with so many brands now wanting to be part of Scoop, we started to feel that two shows could be the perfect solution. WWB: So how does the new schedule work? KR: The first shows of each new season will run on our existing dateline and feature a similar brand profile to the show we have now, featuring primarily international contemporary collections. So the first Scoop show for summer 2016 will take place on 2-4 August this year. The second show of each season will feature international designer collections, second lines and collections from emerging British designers, and will run during LFW. The first edition of this new show, Scoop London, will run take place at the Saatchi Gallery

on 21-22 September. WWB: How will Scoop London be positioned in relation to London Fashion Week? KR: Scoop has always been about showcasing collections that buyers can’t see at other UK shows, and the same applies to Scoop London. So it will have a completely different line-up of brands to LFW, but one that will definitely appeal to LFW visitors. With Scoop London running during LFW, buyers won’t have to add an extra date to an already packed diary, and will be able to see an even larger selection of new season’s ranges while they’re in the capital. WWB: Is Scoop London targeted at a different type of buyer to the original Scoop International show? KR: Every buyer that comes to Scoop International should put the dates for both shows in their diaries. If you’re stocking the labels we had at Scoop this season you’re guaranteed to find great new collections at Scoop London, including labels you may never have seen before. The fact that Scoop London will take place during LFW will also make it easier for international buyers to come to the show, as many of the key stores from Europe, the US and further afield only make it to London once each season. And as I’ve said, the brand >>>

20 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

PREVIEW —

FEBRUARY 2015

KAREN RADLEY

“With Scoop London running during London Fashion Week buyers won’t have to add an extra date to an already packed diary” profile of Scoop London will most definitely appeal to all buyers for whom LFW is the most important show of the season. If you look at the fashion weeks that take place in other international capitals – New York, Milan and particularly Paris – there are numerous trade shows and fashion events taking place simultaneously, all of which add to the pull of those locations for the global fashion industry. WWB: You announced the new concept just ahead of the last show. What’s the reaction been like from the trade? KR: We made the announcement just as the international show season kicked off, so I’ve had the chance to talk to a lot of the brands I’m interested in bringing to Scoop London, and the reaction has been fantastic. As I’ve said I’m in touch with a whole list of labels that love the Scoop concept but haven’t been able to make it to the show because of the dateline, so they’ve been very excited to hear the news. We also had a positive reaction from buyers at this month’s show, who welcome the opportunity to see more collections in London and view labels they either wouldn’t have seen or would have had to travel to Paris, Milan or New York to buy. WWB: Can you tell us anything about the line-up for the first Scoop London show? KR: We’ll be announcing our first key names over the next few weeks, but let’s just say that my visits to Milan, Paris and New York over the last 12 months have been very productive and we’re hugely excited about the new show. The success of Scoop until now has underlined the fact that the more directional and premium end of

womenswear retail is the most exciting sector of the industry today, and with the new Scoop London show we’re developing that further, showcasing even more directional names and truly innovative collections. The later dates of Scoop London also make it ideal for footwear as, like some of the clothing collections we’re targeting, many European footwear collections don’t have their samples ready for the shows in early February and August. WWB: You’ve also mentioned young British designers. How will they fit into the mix? KR: British collections have always been an important part of the Scoop profile, but I think they’re going to play an even more important role at Scoop London. The UK has a fantastic reputation for both the quality of its manufacturing and innovative design – which are both a major draw for international visitors. So as well as bringing fresh international names to Scoop London, we’ve also been sourcing the best of new British design talent and creating a platform for them – which will help them to grow their businesses. — The next edition of Scoop takes place at the Saatchi Gallery, London SW3 on 2-4 August. The first edition of Scoop London takes place at the same venue on 20-22 September. For further information visit www.scoop-international.com.

F A S H I O N

N E W

S C O O P 2 0 - 2 2

S H O W

L O N D O N

S E P T E M B E R

2 0 1 5

S a a t c h i G a l l e r y, L o n d o n | s c o o p - i n t e r n a t i o n a l . c o m ÂŠ Maria Rivans, Delilah, Limited edition print available at saatchistore.com

S H O W S

www.passionmode.de +49 (0) 211 566 811 45 info@passionmode.de

Pure London N105 MIPAP Italy CPM J35 Fashion House 1

PEOPLE —

24 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — FEBRUARY 2015

BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear —

BAGS FOR LIFE Tote bag brand Talented is making a donation to Medecins Sans Frontieres for each sale of its “Things I know about Africa” designs. The label – owned by Sheffield-based project Bag It Don’t Bin It – is headed up by former lingerie tycoon Julia Gash, who is hoping to assist victims of Ebola through the initiative. “Ebola is a challenge for us all – the world will never be quiet, but we can always choose to make a difference,” she says. —

ALL SMILES Television presenter Carol Smillie will head to Moda Lingerie this month with her latest collection of lingerie designed to keep women smiling whatever the time of month. Each pair of pants within the Diary Doll range features a secret and unique leak-proof panel for the utmost in protection, whether for post-surgery, pelvic floor or menstrual use. —

— “Industry charity the Current champion Bernard O’Brien, director at independent footwear retailer Luke O’Brien Shoes in Tuam, Co/ Galway, receives Retail Trust raised his trophy from the Championship’s president Gordon Wilson £1.1m at its annual FOOTWEAR’S celebration last TEE PARTY month – which this HOMEGROWN TALENT The footwear sector is invited to get involved in this year’s International Golf Championship HRH The Princess Royal visited Zatchels’ Leicester year took place at of the Shoe, Leather & Allied Trades, which will factory last month in her role as president of the UKFT. London’s iconic Old During the visit, she was introduced to the label’s key take place on 17-19 June at Druids Glen Resort in Co Wicklow. The annual competition sees those Billingsgate venue.” employees, and saw several demonstrations of the in the footwear trade come together for a round accessories brand’s British manufacture. “Our president — of golf followed by an informal trade dinner, is extremely interested in the success of the UK fashion and textile manufacturing sector,” says UKFT director Paul Alger. “She is a particularly strong supporter of small and medium sized enterprises, especially those manufacturing in the UK, such as Zatchels. —

in aid of the society’s nominated trade charities, which include Footwear Friends. www.shoeandleathergolf-international.co.uk —

OPINION —

26 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — FEBRUARY 2015

TALKING POINT Key industry players give their views on the issues that affect womenswear. —

MAKING YOUR MARK This month will see us make our debut at Moda Woman and, although we are experienced exhibitors, there is still an element of excitement as we arrive at a new show. We had a recommendation from another brand to come to Moda Woman so this month will see us bring our team over to the lovely city of Birmingham. Our label Ewa I Walla has developed from the Swedish farming culture of the small village of Walla into a global brand, and we believe we can offer UK customers something that is missing in their inventory. There’s a definite synergy shared between the UK and Scandinavian markets, and we are looking forward to building on this. It’s been an amazing journey of rapid growth for us since we were established in 2003, and exhibiting to the UK marketing will be a key stage of development for us. We chose to name our collection the Land of Dreams, and that’s the ethos that we are looking to create through our stand at the show. It was inspired by the wave of emigration to America that hit Sweden in the late 1800s, and we hope that British consumers will take the collection to their hearts and feel inspired by the hand-knitting, wool, linen and exclusive hand-printed silk, and our crafts and culture. As experienced as we are, we are enjoying the anticipation of showing at a new event. We have reached out to all of our agents and invited our existing UK customers to come to the stand, and we will also be looking to appoint a UK agent during the show. It makes such a difference to be able to meet someone in person, and really get a feel for their fit with the brand. Of course we are looking to meet boutiques and retail partners that complement our brand, and increasing sales has to be a key focus. But beyond that, we are looking to soak up the British culture to adapt ourselves to the UK market, and to form some long-term relationships with the right business partners. Our design journey is still progressing, and we see a lot of potential among UK buyers. So it is with a mixture of excitement and anticipation that we prepare for our journey to Birmingham, and we are looking forward to opening for business. This may be our first appearance at Moda Woman, but we hope it will be the first of many. —

Ewa Iwalla, owner and designer, Ewa I Walla

GOOD BUSINESS MEANS GOOD SERVICE We all have a story to tell about bad customer service; the time there were long queues at the supermarket tills and management appeared to have taken a holiday from their responsibility to open more, or the waiter who gives you the impression your custom is not important in the restaurant. At Dents, we sincerely believe every request from every customer, whether they are a large or small business, is important – we may not always satisfy them 100 per cent, but we want them to know that we have tried our hardest to do so. In the UK, customer service, with a few exceptions, does not always appear to be a priority, yet here at Dents we are passionate about it. We recognise that outstanding customer service gives us an important competitive advantage and differentiates us from our competitors. We pay equal attention to the smallest request from an owner of a local boutique or a request from the senior buyer of a large retail group. We want all our customers to feel they are important to us. All our staff are expected to go that extra mile to please the customer, and make them leave us with a warm feeling and wanting to return time and time again. To quote Richard Branson, “I have always believed that the way you treat your employees is the way they will treat your customers, and that people flourish when they are praised.”. Dents is a customer service led company and excellent customer service is part of the philosophy that has built the business, and one of the reasons I believe we have survived where, sadly, so many others have failed. Dents has continuously been in business since 1777, which is a remarkable record in an industry with such a high failure rate. Creating and sustaining superior customer service when you are exporting worldwide is a challenge for any organisation, but much more so for the smaller, family owned business such as Dents. We are in a people business and, in a world where everyone is so rushed and time-deficient, one can easily forget the small courtesies that can make the difference between a happy or unhappy customer. At the end of the day, business – including the fashion business – is all about people and, to deliver outstanding customer service, companies must have great people working for them. Fortunately at Dents, we do have. To quote Theodore Roosevelt, “People don’t care how much you know until they know how much you care.” —

Deborah Moore, chief executive, Dents

BRANDS —

30 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — FEBRUARY 2015

AUTUMN’S SHOWCASE

AS THE A/W 15 SHOW SEASON GETS UNDER WAY, SOME OF THE SECTOR’S KEY BRANDS REVEAL WHICH PIECE THEY ARE MOST PROUD OF THIS SEASON. — The fine merino part of our collection has doubled in size since a/w 14, with knitted dresses, cardigans and tops in ginghams, fine herringbones and bold dogtooth checks in 12 colour combinations. The stand-out piece is an easy-fitting Milano dress in a large dogtooth check in lush burgundy and chocolate. Craig Alexander, design director and owner, Cash Ca The stretch silk top has become a signature for Dea Kudibal Copenhagen and, for a/w 15, we are adding a wider selection of stretch silk dresses. One of my personal favourites is the Madison dress in a signature snake print in navy. The dress will be fantastic in early August and will work throughout the season with jeans or tights. Additionally it is machine-washable like the rest of the collection. Caroline Ekstrom, UK agent, Dea Kudibal Copenhagen

The Karo Zebra scarf is my stand-out piece for autumn – hand-illustrated in my UK studio and printed in Italy on a high-quality, soft, thick wool/silk blend. It depicts two zebras adorned and surrounded by flowers and exotic fruits, and is inspired by the Karo tribe from the River Omo in Ethiopia. They use stark, white body paint in thick, chalky stripes, then create wreaths and headdresses from fresh flowers and colourful fruit to decorate themselves. I love the contrast between the bold colours of the flora and the rawness of the black and white stripes. Sabine Savage, designer-director, Sabine Savage

After the success of our menswear line, we found it to be a logical step to branch out into womenswear, so this season sees the launch of Native Youth Women. Key pieces from the collection include the high-neck structured parker, and textured fabric interest jersey pieces. Penelope Armstrong, designer, Native Youth

The a/w 15 stand-out piece is a felted 100 per cent wool blue oversized coat showing a spectacular cable jacquard with worn out effect and multi-coloured torn-out trimmings. As a brand in general, Catherine Andre is a truly unique knitwear label where each and every piece is like a cherished piece of art. Sally Dawes, UK agent, Catherine Andre

Our creative knitwear defines the new autumn collection. I have been working with Crea Concept for over 18 years and the super-talented design team never fails to come up with inspirational and edgy designs season after season. Paulette Cohen, showroom manager, Crea Concept

Loose trousers and culottes define the new total look in our Atelier Gardeur womenswear collection, and have become statement trousers. Trendy jogging pants and jersey leggings also give wearers both comfort and style, while skinny boyfriend and blackish double-dyed looks put a new twist on denim. Maria Hebel, head of womenswear design, Atelier Gardeur

The Abigail dress with its classic Eucalyptus features – natural fabric, cotton lining, uneven hems but with a modern twist on the shaping, meaning it can be dressed up or down – is a stand-out piece for autumn. Another great piece is our Lola skirt, a substantial full skirt in wool in colours such as red and purple. Sonia Au-Yeung, managing director and head designer, Eucalyptus Frosted Utopia is our key story this season, comprising winter-white gilets thrown over soft autumnal print dresses and patchwork denim skirts. The entire range is taking a new direction as of autumn, with a new injection of soft femininity that will update our classic Bellfield style. Victoria Cookson, senior ladieswear designer, Bellfield

Our stand-out piece is a fake suede jogging pant with a fabulous long wool cardigan/ coat in a soft cashmere blend. The overall collection is made up of soft, relaxed looks, and we have an exciting new fabric – a jogging trouser on the inside but denim on the outside with a jersey feel. Anne-lydia Halewood, sales director, Brax

LONDON SHOWROOM: Godske Group UK. Showroom: 65 Margaret Street, London W1W 8SP Tel: 0207 636 3063 Fax: 0207 636 3863 Email: pug@godske.com DUBLINâ&#x20AC;&#x2C6;SHOWROOM: Godske Group Ireland, Unit 5, Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24 Tel: 00353 1 4295042 Fax: 00353 1 4295043

Autumn/Winter 2015 SIZE RANGE: 8-30 GODSKE KIRSTEN KROG DESIGN JORLI HABELLA ROBELL FRANDSEN OUTERWEAR TIA I’CONA Q NEEL QUÉ REFA THAT’S ME BY JAGRO —

We will be showing at the following exhibitions: THE GALLERY - DUSSELDORF 28th January to 2nd February 2015 Fashion House 1 - 2nd Floor, Room 247 – 251 CIFF - COPENHAGEN 29th January to 1st February 2015 Bella Centre Stand B3 – 241 PURE EXHIBITION - OLYMPIA 8th February to 10th February 2015 Stand H124 & J129 London Showroom also open Sunday 8th February 2015 – Weekend of Pure MODA UK - NEC BIRMINGHAM 15th February to 17th February 2015 Hall 18 - Stand nos I30 - J30 – J31 DUBLIN SHOWROOM Fashion City - with a Special Event on Sun 22nd to Tues 24th February 2015

34 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

INTERVIEW —

FEBRUARY 2015

Q&A

Julian Dunkerton, co-founder, brand and design director, Superdry — FOUNDED ON T-SHIRTS MIXING AMERICANA WITH JAPANESE TOUCHES IN 2003, SUPERDRY’S PHENOMENAL RISE HAS BEEN ONE LEAVING OTHERS IN AWE. TOM BOTTOMLEY TALKS TO CO-FOUNDER AND BRAND AND DESIGN DIRECTOR JULIAN DUNKERTON ABOUT THE RIDE SO FAR, NEW RANGES AND A FRESH EMPHASIS ON WHOLESALE. —

35 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

INTERVIEW —

FEBRUARY 2015

Tom Bottomley: How would you say the brand has evolved over the past decade? Julian Dunkerton: We started by introducing one product at a time; T-shirts being the first. The Osaka 6 print really got us noticed and, although David Beckham wearing one helped, it was mostly down to the exposure we got with what turned out to be the winning contestant on Big Brother wearing it over and over again – when Big Brother got big viewing figures. We’ve now obviously developed into a comprehensive range for women and men, including footwear, accessories, tailoring, a Snow range and now a new Rugby collection. We’re constantly developing all sorts of new product areas to push the brand. TB: Is the Snow line just for the ski look? JD: No, it’s technical as well, so you can wear it on or off the slopes. I’m proud of it – it’s great stuff. There’s a lot of womenswear as well as men’s. We basically keep targeting new areas that we feel the brand can move into. Rugby is the next one, launching with a small introductory capsule line in our own stores for this spring, and launching properly for wholesale for a/w 15. Although it’s only menswear for now, we will be adding womenswear in the future. TB: How does womenswear compare to your men’s business? JD: Sales continue to be skewed towards menswear, which accounts for around two thirds of the retail and wholesale business. Jackets are always the strongest sales within womenswear, with the fleece-lined Arctic Windcheater our biggest volume driver. However, we’ve seen a shift towards parkas this season, with our customers really buying into higher price point products such as our Everest coat. TB: What can we expect for a/w 15? JD: For a/w 15, we will offer women’s faux-leather jackets at accessible pricing for those who may not want to purchase real leather – though we do sell a lot of women’s leather jackets, so this will strengthen sales in that area further. They will be around half the price of our real leather jackets. All-over prints and graphics will update our leisurewear – sweats and joggers – and ensure continued growth in this already established category. TB: Is part of your success down to your far-reaching customer base? JD: We have a wide appeal, and we target different age groups within the range. There are products that only 30-somethings will buy, products that only late teens will buy, and products that will go right across the whole spectrum. The branded hoodies are pretty much bought by any Superdry customer.

“We pride ourselves on the sophistication of our branding. I don’t know of any other company that is as sophisticated with its branding”

TB: Did you ever envisage that the business would become this big? JD: You never sit there and think it will be, but I never see any boundaries to what I think we can achieve. If it is humanly possible, it is humanly possible! Ten years ago I didn’t sit there and say, “It’s going to be this,” but incrementally you just keep growing. TB: At what point did you think, “We’ve hit the jackpot here?” JD: There have been so many stages to it. Every time we get a new category, co-founder James Holder and I get as excited as we did 10 years ago. We do genuinely love product. The good news for me personally is, now that Euan Sutherland has joined us as chief executive officer, James and I have much more focus together working on developing new areas. Product is my core skill, after all. It’s also about understanding where the consumer is going to go. Euan is here now to really develop the business growth, and provide clear strategies for Europe, and other opportunities globally. Europe is the most developed, and we opened quite a few stores in Germany just before Christmas. They are wholly owned and run by us, though we do also have a franchise development strategy around the world. TB: Are franchise stores a route you take for the UK market? JD: We don’t do franchises any more in the UK. We’ve got almost 100 standalone stores ourselves, so we don’t need any. We do have some shop-in-shops in House of Fraser stores as well. TB: How important is the UK wholesale market to you? JD: It’s massively important. And we intend to move that forward with Flemming Jensen coming into the business. He’s recently joined us to head up our global wholesale operations. We’re very much working on how we support and develop the UK wholesale market, and that – of course – includes independents. TB: Of your UK market, how much does wholesale currently represent? JD: We have around 300 doors in the UK. We intend to forge closer relationships with all

of our wholesale partners, so we can become more efficient and do a better job for them. It’s a big focus for us. Currently, wholesale is around 25 per cent of our business in the UK. TB: How important is the Superdry branding to the overall appeal? JD: We pride ourselves on the sophistication of our branding. James and his team work hard to ensure every product has a different branding, be it back label or other branding touches. I don’t know of any other company that is as sophisticated with its branding. The amount of work that goes into each product to try to make it the best product in the market – within the price bracket – is phenomenal. There’s an amazing attention to detail. That’s why we’re here, and that’s why we’re successful – it’s down to James’ attention to detail. TB: How much are Superdry T-shirts and hoodies these days? JD: It’s still £25 for a T-shirt, and £50 for a standard hoody. It’s important that we are affordable. That’s why, from a wholesale perspective, people can rely on our product to sell. The public get value for money when they buy one of our products. TB: When you started Superdry, what did you see as a gap in the market? JD: The biggest gap in the market was for tops. There were strong denim brands around, but no-one was owning the graphic T-shirt and polo space. We always work to the weaknesses of the market, and fill the gaps. That’s what we always have done, and that’s what we always will do. TB: With the Japanese writing incorporated in the branding, how is the brand perceived in Japan? JD: Anecdotally I’ve seen a lot of Japanese people wearing and buying our stuff, but Japan is the only country in the world that we’re not allowed to sell in currently. Somebody else owns the name there, which is a shame! In Asia in general we are very popular. TB: Is the Superdry website your biggest shop? JD: Yes. It’s 10.2 per cent of SuperGroup sales in our global business – and that’s incorporating our wholesale business, too. TB: Would you say you now have new focus in terms of your product offer? JD: I’d say that what you’re seeing from us now is very much targeted product in the right environments. With the new Snow and Rugby lines, we are giving new opportunities for wholesale customers to come and look at us differently. They are all segmented and focused ranges, allowing a new customer to discover us. It’s giving us a wider appeal.

FASHION —

38 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — FEBRUARY 2015

STYLE FILE The hottest brands not to miss this month —

STATEMENT GEOMETRICS Canadian label Joseph Ribkoff takes bold inspiration from its Northern territory this season with a new range of womenswear designed around geometric styling and a statement colour palette. Electric blue, scarlet red and aubergine are key, while textures such as suede add textural depth. —

TEXTURAL DEPTHS

Following a strong sell-through on knitwear this season, German label Eugen Klein has introduced a more comprehensive selection of knits into its a/w 15 offer. Available in the brand’s key colourways, which include cloudy grey & turquoise, Persian blue & cornflower, black & sugar pink and Bordeaux & raspberry, the knits are designed to integrate into the label’s core offer for complementary layering of the entire collection. —

EVERYDAY LUXURY

Silhouettes define the autumn collection for Apanage as the German label expresses its new-season style through a range of new shapes. Relaxed sporty silhouettes are key throughout the brand’s daywear, with oversized sweaters and boot-cut denims hinting at a preppy feel. Eveningwear is similarly relaxed despite its glamorous design, with jumpsuits and flattering dresses taking centre stage. —

Loose and easy shapes and knits that double-up as outerwear form the hallmarks of the latest collection from Hauber. Simple silhouettes let luxurious fabrics speak for themselves, as a textural palette of alpaca, cashmere, silk and lightweight knits take centre stage. Colours, meanwhile, are intriguingly muted, with soft greys and rosewood characterising the simple luxury of the range. —

Swiss label Hanro is adapting its intimate apparel and loungewear for the outside world with the launch of womenswear line Eric & Me. The a/w 15 range comprises 43 pieces, including jumpsuits, separates and knitwear. —

Spreading the joy

National retailer Joy will launch its new label Valley of the Dolls for s/s 15, offering short-order lead times and accessible price points. Sitting alongside Joy’s current collection, Louche, Valley of the Dolls comprises 40 pieces, designed around a distinct, LA bohemian vibe. —

FASHION —

44 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — FEBRUARY 2015

FASHION RADAR The hottest brands to look out for right now —

NATIVE YOUTH

PAPER LONDON

Three years on from its inception as a menswear label, Native Youth is expanding into womenswear this spring. —

Paper London unveils a tropical line from spring as the brand gathers speed ahead of its fourth appearance at London Fashion Week. —

Established: 2012

Established: 2011

This season will see the launch of the debut womenswear offer from Native Youth. Established three years ago by designer Ash Kumar, the Manchester brand will adapt the style hallmarks of clean aesthetics and quality fabrics of its menswear design for a womenswear range to arrive in stores in time for spring. “We felt the time was right to launch a women’s collection,” says Kumar. “The line carries strong pieces across product including fashion denim in key shapes and a co-ordinating silk blend seersucker suit. The range also continues native Youth’s strength in fabric sourcing to bring high quality textiles to the high street.” Confirmed stockists for spring include Urban Outfitters, Ron Herman, Wildfang and Azalea, while the brand will target highly selected premium stockists and top-end independents nationwide throughout this year and beyond. Wholesale prices from £9.25. —

Banana plants, ocean spray, raffia fringing and tropical flowers invigorate the spring range from British label Paper London. Inspired by the works of artists Gauguin and Cézanne, the collection takes the brand forward into a new era of design for the new season. “I have always been profoundly influenced by the world of art in my designs and, for s/s 15, this was no different,” says creative director Kelly Townsend. “The works of Cézanne and Gauguin inspired me and, for me, the fusion of the two artists worked seamlessly. The textures of the combined fabrics unify the collection, bringing the vibrant citruses, deep greens and navies to life.” Paper London is making a name for itself with its style signatures of clean, sharp silhouettes, colour blocking and bold, graphic knits. Wholesale prices from £65. —

47 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

PROFILE —

FEBRUARY 2015

NEW ERA OF THE EAST

Israeli brand Ronen Chen returns to Moda Woman this season, heralding a new period of expansion and a whole new design direction for the brand. Christina Williams caught up head of the brand’s UK division Howard Ross to find out more. —

rom his studio on the Western coast of Israel, Ronen Chen is one designer for whom the pen is not mightier than the sword. Having relinquished the traditional designer’s sketch method years ago, the concept for each of his designs begins with the basic draping of cloth over mannequin. And it is that – the simple inception of a design brought to life through “organic progression” – that has formed the signature of a brand whose heritage stretches back over two decades. One of Israel’s most relevant exports, Ronen Chen is a brand that has become a style staple across the Western world. With 300 independent stockists across the US, Canada and the UK in addition to 18 mono-brand stores on its home territory, there is no denying that the designer himself has made a genuine success of his eponymous label. On the eve of its a/w 15 launch, however, Ronen Chen is set to take a bold new direction, and its repositioning will be a joint a venture with new UK partner Retail Brand Connection. “We were introduced to Ronen Chen last spring and, having assessed the business and its product, we have identified further gaps in the marketplace,” says founder of Retail Brand Connection and Ronen Chen’s new UK representative Howard Ross. “The current UK customer base is only small for a variety of reasons so, having had the chance to work with the company and learn what works and what doesn’t, we have identified partnerships that we can develop.” The new era of development for Ronen Chen will be

spearheaded this month by its return to Moda Woman, an appearance that is a welcome return for the brand’s existing customers in the UK. In addition to its core offer, however, the brand will diversify away from its roots for the first time into a directional new collection, Limited by Ronen Chen. Sculpted, geometric and minimalist, the 20-piece capsule range elevates the label’s style signatures to the next level, incorporating catwalk statement designs in limited numbers in a move that is set to reposition the Ronen Chen label among a much more premium demographic. “The collection still represents the essence of Ronen Chen’s unique style,” says Ross. “But there’s a distinct point of difference that will appeal to a different consumer and, having trialled the Limited collection at one of the brand’s concept stores in Israel towards the end of last year, we certainly feel it is the time to launch it internationally.” The brand’s diffusion line, however, is not its only progression for the new season. Far from hedging its metaphorical bets with the younger, more premium collection launching alongside its tried-and-tested signature offer, the new style direction has invigorated the entire range. New fabrics, pared-back designs and a contemporary repositioning see the signature range take inspiration from its Limited counterpart, interpreting it in a more accessible way for Ronen Chen’s core consumer. “The entire range represents a lot more perceived value this >>>

48 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

PROFILE —

FEBRUARY 2015

“The main Ronen Chen collection is, and always will be, the prêt a porter interpretation of Ronen Chen’s signature design; a design style that is very clean and simple in the sophisticated sense” season, following the reduction of pricing since last autumn and conversely, the improvement in the quality of the brand’s materials,” says Ross. “The main Ronen Chen collection is, and always will be, the prêt a porter interpretation of Ronen Chen’s signature design; a style that is very clean and simple in the sophisticated sense. We have, however, been very careful to minimise the presence of past styles. And rather than repeat himself, Ronen Chen has used the inspiration of the Limited collection to create an exciting range, which is at once faithful to his signature and simultaneously brings a fresh and fashionable breath of newness.” Consisting of 125 styles, broken down into seven mini collections, Ronen Chen’s core offer is designed to offer a consistent flow of fresh new styles throughout the season. Such logistics are no mean feat but, in light of the brand’s new partnership with Retail Brand Connection, the label’s aspirations for the new season are limitless. “We have 40 years’ experience and expertise in developing both small and large fashion brands through wholesale and retail,” says Ross, who established Retail Brand Connection in 2011. “We have already worked with major German brands such as Gerry Weber and Street One and we successfully introduced Australian label Montique to the UK, so we are confident that Ronen Chen can benefit from our guidance on product, pricing and style for the UK market. We are approached by many companies and it is sometimes

hard to turn them down, but I can only work with products I believe in. Ronen Chen is a label that I have a lot of faith in, and we feel we can guide the brand to opportunities they would not otherwise be aware of and connecting them with the right retailers.” It’s a commitment to a successful wholesale model that has deterred the brand from ever replicating its successful retail operation from its domestic to its overseas territory. “We would prefer to support our wholesale customers at the point,” says Ross. “There are no retail stores in the UK, and we currently have no plans for this.” The focus is instead on the growth of the brand’s wholesale distribution and, ultimately, strengthening its e-commerce arm throughout the UK when the time is right. Despite its global aspirations, however, the essence and handwriting of the unique Israeli label is set to be its key selling point when the collection is unveiled at Moda Woman later this month. “We wanted to show at Moda because we felt that we wanted to let the retailers see the changes for themselves and to know that we are back, and we are very much in the market for a/w 15,” says Ross. “The autumn collection represents a significant move forward and, to have this additional showcase and hopefully additional customers is instrumental to our strategic plans.”

50 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

PROFILE —

FEBRUARY 2015

Twenty years on from its inception, premium retailer Anna has expanded beyond its native Norfolk to become a six-strong retail empire across the South East. Now regarded as a brand in its own right, the business is completing its offer with the launch of its own-label collection for s/s 15, as Christina Williams found out. —

REALMS OF CREATIVITY

rom her position at the helm of a staggeringly successful retail chain, Anna Park could be forgiven for taking a step back from the business. However, as the likes of Diane von Furstenberg, Halston Heritage, Saloni and Sea NY grace her rails and keep the tills ringing, the founder of the business that now spans six successful locations can generally be found in the same place whatever the season. “I like being on the shop floor,” she says. “I love retail and I love clothes and this is where I am at my happiest; I would much rather be here than in the office.” For Park, the Anna chain is truly eponymous from its name to every collection that is sold within. A former shop assistant at high-street chain Warehouse, Park realised a love of retail early on, deviating from her studies as a professional chef to dedicate herself to roles in customer service training. It was in 1994 when she finally realised every element of her experience past and ambitions of the future to open Anna, a premium and directional retailer of womenswear that was intriguingly incongruous with the rural surroundings of Norfolk. For Park, it was the golden age of retail that saw managers and staff alike begin to focus on engaging with their core demographics and, to this day, it’s something to which she attributes the success of each and every one of her stores. “When I was working in customer service training, no-one really spoke to customers or got to know them; we just expected them to come in and shop,” she says. “But from my very first

store, I tried to reflect my customers in everything I bought while maintaining the Anna signature across each location.” It’s a fine balance but, six stores later, Park has mastered the technique of adapting her unique buying sense for each and every regional demographic. “There are definite differences,” she says of her stores in Burnham Market and Holt Norfolk, Bury St Edmunds and Woodbridge, Suffolk, Saffron Waldon, Essex and Primrose Hill, London. “London was the first shop I opened after my first store in Burnham Market and it was immediately apparent that Londoners were less dressy than their Norfolk counterparts. Londoners wear jeans to bars and restaurants, whereas my customers in Norfolk and Suffolk like to dress up.” Despite the differences, however, Park is always keen to maintain a certain sense of cohesion throughout her stores. It’s part of the reason that she has closed two shops during her career, simply because they didn’t fit with the rest of her portfolio. “I previously had stores in Harpenden and on Kings Road, the most recent of which I closed down two years ago,” she says. “The Kings Road store was never really the area I wanted to be in and the Harpenden one was the only one that I ever found difficult to stock because I simply couldn’t seem to carry what the women wanted. Closing them down allowed me to concentrate all of my energy and creativity on my other projects, all of which are now doing well.” It’s testament to Park’s realistic business sense, and another contributing factor to her thriving empire. Park’s firm commitment

51 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

PROFILE —

FEBRUARY 2015

ANNA PARK

“I LIKE BEING ON THE SHOP FLOOR. I LOVE RETAIL AND I LOVE CLOTHES AND THIS IS WHERE I AM AT MY HAPPIEST; I WOULD MUCH RATHER BE HERE THAN IN THE OFFICE”

to reflecting a true sense of Anna within each and every one of her stores is in fact so integral to the business that she is launching her first own-label collection this year. Primrose Park will be sold through Chiltern Street Studio, as well as being retailed through Anna’s bricks-and-mortar and e-commerce arms. “Primrose Park is a printed collection that I hope will encapsulate everything that my customers want,” says Park. “I’m a colour and print wearer myself – I don’t like black – and I wanted to reflect my own taste within the collection, as well as filling the gap I can see within the womenswear sector.” It’s an advantage of 20 years on the front line of retail that enables Park and her team to create a collection that truly responds to the contemporary consumer. Having commissioned an illustrator to create the designs, each and every print is exclusive to the collection and, even before the launch of its debut spring line, Park has bigger aspirations for autumn. “I am so excited for a/w 15,” she says. “I think other stores will really respond to the collection, but it will be a slow growth because we don’t want it to be everywhere. I will certainly be cherry-picking the stores.” The launch of the collection is the final link in the chain that has seen Anna evolve from small independent retailer to a nationwide lifestyle brand. Since its inception, every element of the business has always existed outside the perimeters of convention, from the personal blog that enhances the store’s transactional website to the beauty and lifestyle offer carefully selected to complement each store’s core womenswear collection.

“Each store is a bit like coming into my own personal boudoir,” says Park. “We just like to do things that are a bit different, and that includes sharing the products that we find and love. We sell something called Molecules Perfume, which is just extraordinary, and Black Chicken Balm of Ages, which all the staff here have converted to. My children tease me about Black Chicken every time they are sick, saying it will probably all be ok if we put some Black Chicken on it.” From Park’s two sons – aged 17 and 20 – to her extensive workforce, everyone is seemingly a complete convert to each and every collection selected to be sold in-store. Modestly, however, Park attributes a lot of her success to the team around her, and the staff within each and every store who contribute to the shopping experience. “I am very lucky with my staff,” she says. “All those years ago when I was training shop-workers in customer service, the essence of my teaching was to value the customer and, in the same way, to value staff. And 20 years on that is still integral to everything we do.” —

52 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

PROFILE —

FEBRUARY 2015

MOVING ON UP British handbag label LYDC is spearheading a new £10m development in Manchester with the aim of creating a Northern fashion destination as well as housing its own company headquarters. Christina Williams headed over to the complex to find out more. — Next month will see the arrival of a new £10m complex in the Northern capital of Manchester, regenerating the city’s Cheetham Hill area and revitalising the traditionally textile-focused businesses around it. One such business – British handbag label LYDC – will be the first to move its headquarters into the Manchester Fashion Centre development but, in a twist not often seen in the industry, the brand also represents the investment behind the project. Spearheaded by David Chen, founder and chief executive officer of LYDC, the project is organised in partnership with Manchester Council and is part of a wider plan to improve the Strangeways business area. “Over the last few months, we have outgrown our current location, and we wanted a new, bigger place of work to lay a strong foundation for our growth plans,” says Chen. “I’ve relished the chance to be

involved in the regeneration of Cheetham Hill Road, and hope that the move will be the start of great things to come.” The development is testament to the success of LYDC, which was established in 2005. Ten years on from its inception, the brand has added two diffusion lines – Anna Smith and DSUK – to its stable, and retails through Next, Lipsy and Office, as well as a network of independent stockists, and will launch into Debenhams as of s/s 15. With retail prices ranging from £15 to £45, accessibility has always been at the core of LYDC’s highly trend-led collections, and the brand’s global success is proof of its desirable and relevant designs. The next stage of LYDC’s development will see a heavy focus on the label’s marketing and e-commerce arm, headed up by a new team at the new Manchester Fashion Centre development. More than 20 new jobs will be created as part of the brand’s

expansion, spanning positions in sales, e-commerce, social media, public relations, marketing, the warehouse, administration and design. The move is part of a wider plan to strengthen LYDC’s presence on the UK high street, while overseas expansion in China and the US is also in the pipeline. For those at the helm of the label, however, the local regeneration of the Manchester textiles region is the most rewarding aspect of the project. “LYDC will not be the only brand to thrive at the new premises,” says David Chen who, in his role as chairman for the Strangeways Business Area, has become somewhat of a pillar of the community. “Twenty other fashion and textile brands will be invited to join us at the new space, and we are already focused on the official opening of the centre which will happen at some stage next month.”

SEVENTIES HEAVEN MOODY COLOUR PALETTES AND RETRO SILHOUETTES ADD A SEVENTIES EDGE TO A/W 15 FASHION —

Photographs: Darren Black, www.darrenblackphotography.com Model: Stephanie at Sapphires Model Management www.sapphiresmodel.com Styling: Fran Lee, Production Element www.franleestylist.co.uk Hair & make up: Charlotte Yeomans, www.charlotteyeomans.com — Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale.

Coat Hauber, £225, 020 7323 6100; Butterfly print blouse Steilmann, £25, 020 7291 0522; Hat Suzanne Bettley, £14, 020 7637 7213

Dress Pomodoro, £22, 020 8961 4000; Scarf, James Lakeland, price on request, 020 7636 7130; Boots Cara, RRP £159, 01491 872044

Dress Pomodoro, ÂŁ24, 020 8961 4000; Tights throughout Falke, price on request, 0049 2225 926176

Shirt James Lakeland, ÂŁ43, 020 7636 7130; Trousers Luisa Cerano, price on request, 020 7323 6101

Cardigan Luisa Cerano, £132, 020 7323 6101; Blouse Hauber, £46, 020 7323 6100; Skirt Hauber, £56, 020 7323 6100; Boots Cara, RRP £159, 01491 872044; Hat stylist’s own

Shirt Hauber, £52, 020 7323 6100; Trousers Hauber, £63, 020 7323 6100, Boots Cara, RRP £99, 01491 872044

Hat Suzanne Bettley, £14, 020 7637 7213; Cape Hauber, £156, 020 7323 6100; Dress James Lakeland, price on request, 020 7636 7130; Boots Cara, RRP £159, 01491 872044

Dress Peruzzi, ÂŁ41, 020 7291 0537; Gilet James Lakeland, price on request, 020 7636 7130; Hat Suzanne Bettley ÂŁ14, 020 7637 7213

Hooded poncho Jayley, £42, 0844 2728969; Dress Pomodoro, £26, 020 8961 4000; Boots Cara, RRP £99, 01491 872044

Coat Hauber, £207, 020 7323 6100; Dress James Lakeland, £39, 020 7636 7130; Boots Rayne, RRP £605, www.rayneshoes.co.uk; Sunglasses, stylist’s own

Coat James Lakeland, £450, 020 7636 7130; Dress Pomodoro, £45, 020 8961 4000; Boots Cara, RRP £99, 01491 872044

Jumper James Lakeland, ÂŁ195, 020 7636 7130; Leggings James Lakeland, price on request, 020 7636 7130

MARIE & BELLA

LONDON SHOWROOM: Godske Group UK. Showroom: 65 Margaret Street, London W1W 8SP Tel: 0207 636 3063 Fax: 0207 636 3863 Email: pug@godske.com DUBLIN SHOWROOM: Godske Group Ireland, Unit 5, Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24 Tel: 00353 1 4295042 Fax: 00353 1 4295043

Autumn/Winter 2015 SIZE RANGE: 8-30 GODSKE • KIRSTEN KROG DESIGN • JORLI • HABELLA • ROBELL • FRANDSEN OUTERWEAR • TIA • I’CONA • Q NEEL • QUÉ • REFA • THAT’S�ME�BY�JAGRO —

BEST SELLERS SPRING /SUMMER 2015 N.O.S.

We will be showing at the following exhibitions: THE GALLERY - DUSSELDORF 28th January to 2nd February 2015 - Fashion House 1 - 2nd Floor, Room 247 – 251 CIFF - COPENHAGEN 29th January to 1st February 2015 - Bella Centre Stand B3 – 241 PURE EXHIBITION - OLYMPIA 8th February to 10th February 2015 – Stand H124 & J129 London Showroom also open Sunday 8th February 2015 – Weekend of Pure MODA UK - NEC BIRMINGHAM 15th February to 17th February 2015 - Hall 18 - Stand I30 - J30 – J31 DUBLIN SHOWROOM Fashion City - with a Special Event on Sun 22nd to Tues 24th February 2015

Autumn/Winter 2015

Showing at MODA - Stand H11 London Head Office: 0207 291 0522 Email: info@steilmann.co.uk

73 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

MODA —

FEBRUARY 2015

Moda Woman 74 Moda Newcomers 80 Moda Footwear 84 Moda Accessories 88 Moda Lingerie & Swimwear 92 What’s on at Moda 94

MODA ��FEBRUARY��•�NEC�BIRMINGHAM

• Comprehensive guide to a/w 15 at the industry’s national trade fashion exhibition.

EMRECO STAND J20

>>>

MODA —

74 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — FEBRUARY 2015

MODA WOMAN Moda Woman plays host to an extensive range of womenswear labels, providing a detailed overview of trends for a/w 15.

MODA —

75 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — FEBRUARY 2015

01 MICHAELA LOUISA Stand H40 Offering style and versatility for a range of occasions, Michaela Louisa returns to Moda Woman with a new collection of flattering dresses and separates. 02 GEORGEDE Stand H28 French label Georgede takes a fashionable new direction for autumn, combining its 40 years of Parisian heritage with a range of contemporary new designs. Sophisticated cuts are key, while overall styling aims to fuse elegance with delicacy. 03 MISS BARON Stand J41 Interpreting current trends in womenswear with its own twist, Danish label Miss Baron targets the luxurious end of the sector with its exclusive designs in contemporary, Scandinavian styling.

04 INTOWN Stand J41 Presenting a range of jackets, knitwear, skirts, trousers, shirts and outerwear, Danish label Intown targets the 30-plus woman with a complete lifestyle look. The brand offers four collections annually with its clean, contemporary styling and muted colour palette. 05 BRAX Stand H20 German label Brax returns to Moda with its latest range, which is designed around a Scandinavia theme. Individual and relaxed looks form the style hallmarks, while interesting silhouettes such as capes and ponchos form the statement pieces of the collection. 06 RONEN CHEN Stand J50 The Israeli label makes a return to Moda Woman this season, unveiling both its core and Limited collections for autumn. Making its debut outside of its native Israel, the Limited range combines the brand’s unique handwriting with catwalk statement style. 07 ELISA CAVALETTI Stand I70 Elisa Cavaletti brings Italian creativity to Moda Woman through its feminine collection, which aims to transcend body type and age demographics. Muted pastels and cool neutrals are key, which the brand maintains its signature commitment to detailing for an intricate finish.

08 JAMES LAKELAND Stand I51 Returning to Moda White, James Lakeland unveils its directional new collection this season, revealing new style inspirations and a repositioned, more contemporary range for autumn. Outerwear remains a key focus for the label, alongside its core offer of figureflattering dresses and separates. 09 FOIL Stand K10 Offering a range of wearable designs in quality finishes, Foil returns to Moda Woman with its latest offer of cosy knits, dresses and separates. Red, blue and black make for a statement palette, while silhouettes are designed to flatter in line with the brand’s signature cuts. 10 NOMADS Stand K28 Bringing together bohemian and contemporary designs, Nomads unveils an autumn collection inspired by the eclectic culture of Istanbul. Each piece is designed to be trans-seasonal, and layering is prevalent throughout the range for versatility. —

>>>

MODA —

76 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — FEBRUARY 2015

MODA WOMAN

MODA —

77 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — FEBRUARY 2015

01 POMODORO Stand I10 Pomodoro unveils one of its most extensive collections to date this season, interpreting its signature femininity for both day and evening styles. Winter pastels are a key story for the brand as soft grey is brought to life with accents of rose pink and olive for a relaxed urban look, while flowing layers are given structure with skinny bottoms. 02 MARBLE Stand J10 Soft-to-the-touch sweaters, pieces designed to be layered and a sprinkling of sparkle form the style hallmarks of Marble’s autumn range. Comprising cool neutrals with a splash of electric colour, each piece is designed to make a statement of its own while also fitting seamlessly into layering options with other styles within the collection. 03 BRAINTREE Stand M18 Braintree takes a contemporary new direction for autumn while maintaining the ethical and sustainable values that have always been at the brand’s core. Key pieces include the new autumnal leaf print skirt in delicate hues of avocado, designed to be worn and layered with complementary pieces in the collection. 04 ATELIER GARDEUR Stand H21 Loose trousers and culottes define the overall look for Atelier Gardeur this autumn, while the brand’s staple jogging pants, leggings and skinny boyfriend styles maintain wearability throughout the latest range from the trouser specialist. 05 DOUBLE TWO Stand ME29 New prints are key for autumn, with floral and check designs prevalent across the collection. The full colour check design incorporates elements of pink, bluebell, brown and jade and is available in a semitailored fit. 06 FABER Stand H28 Knitwear specialist Faber presents an intriguing collection of tactile pieces in muted pastels and cool wearable tones this autumn, alongside a core range of classic black styles.

07 GODSKE Stand J30 / I30 / J31 Danish label Godske maintains its commitment to deliver exceptional fit and consistent quality across its 12 labels for a/w 15, delivering an extensive range of daywear and evening styles. 08 ADINI Stand K11 Uncomplicated aesthetics are the focus for Adini this autumn as the brand takes its signature look of prints and textures across natural fabrics and adds its own laid-back twist. Colours are inspired by a glorious autumn, with hues of forest green, midnight blue, rich rosewood, smokey blue and spicy paprika all featuring within the palette. 09 STEILMANN Stand H11 Effortless style is the focus for Steilmann this season as the German label presents a redefined collection for autumn with clean, pared back style and all of its usual hallmarks of feminine elegance. 10 ALICE & BARNABE Stand K10 Colourful and natural fabrics are prevalent across the latest range by Alice & Barnabe as the label develops its bohemian styling for the new season. Embellishment is a key focus for the brand, while brown and fuchsia define the palette. —

>>>

MODA —

78 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — FEBRUARY 2015

MODA WOMAN

01 JAYLEY Stand M40 Wraps, ponchos and scarves are the speciality for Jayley, and this season sees the label indulge in textural diversity. The brand focuses on eclectic luxury for a/w 15 as it repositions itself to target premium accounts across the country. 02 LATTE Stand I60 Latte extends its offer for autumn with a new range of outerwear designed to complement its core offer. The brand’s womenswear range, meanwhile, focuses on femininity and detailing with classic colourways brought to life through contemporary shapes and intricate finishes. 03 SAHARA Stand H60 Textural diversity is the focus for Sahara this season as the brand indulges its tactile side with a range of luxe velvets, soft knits, mohair and merino wool. Oversize shapes are key, while subtle beaded embellishment and tie-dye finishes allude to the laid-back bohemian nature of the label.

04 TINA TAYLOR Stand J2 Vibrant colours and prints in a range of unique styles are the design signatures of the latest range by Tina Taylor. The brand offers versatility through its relaxed mix-and-match separates, while a flattering and comfortable fit is always a key focus throughout the collection. 05 HENRY ARROWAY Stand H49 Making its Moda debut this season, Spanish label Henry Arroway brings with it a range of outerwear designed to offer statement style with no compromise to performance. Coats in varying lengths are available from waist to mid-thigh options, each designed to offer maximum warmth combined with a flattering silhouette. 06 CRUSH Stand J10 Outerwear specialist Crush presents a new range of statement coats and jackets in its signature faux-fur this season, combining style and practicality for autumn. — >>>

MODA —

80 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — FEBRUARY 2015

MODA NEWCOMERS Moda plays host to a diverse range of brands making their debuts this month, showcasing a variety of new faces from all areas of the industry.

MODA —

81 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — FEBRUARY 2015

01 EWA I WALLA Stand H59 Ewa I Walla makes its Moda Woman debut with a range of exquisite designs influenced by traditional Swedish culture. Inspired by the wave of mass emigration to America that hit Sweden in the late 1800s, the Land of Dreams range draws upon the hand-knitting, wool and linen that were typical of the time and combining them with contemporary hand-printed silk and a palette of smoky pastels for an intriguing and unique collection. 02 LOUISE ROSS Stand H58 Launching for a/w 15, Louise Ross blends city style with countryside culture through its juxtaposition of Yorkshire-sourced fabrics in contemporary cuts.

03 ULDAHL Stand H70 Defined by Nordic purity and nature’s own colours, Danish label Uldahl presents a directional range of womenswear for the new autumn season. The label prides itself on a balance of contrast, taking the simplest and rawest of design and adding its own signatures through sophisticated detailing and feminine expression. 04 ELVI Stand I29 Elvi has undergone a complete overhaul ahead of its a/w 15 launch and will be repositioned within the industry when it makes its Moda debut this month. The plus-size brand takes inspiration from the catwalk exclusively for sizes 14-26, rather than simply scaling up smaller sizes. 05 ONELIFE Stand J40 Moda Woman debutante Onelife introduces four distinct collections for autumn designed to fit seamlessly into contemporary living. Loungewear, basics and knitwear all complement the brand’s core range of bestselling styles and, as always, breathable fabrics and timeless styles form the hallmarks of the collection. 06 MONTIQUE Stand H68 Arriving at Moda White from Australia, Montique offers a statement collection of designs that add a contemporary edge to occasionwear. Bringing together quality workmanship and enhanced fits designed to flatter the silhouette, the brand adds a directional twist to dresses, separates and boleros for a range of occasionwear designed with modern-day special events in mind.

07 POLA MONDI BY MERLA Stand H51 New to Moda Woman this season, Pola Mondi by Merla incorporates French and Italian textures into its range of wearable designs, adding its own style signatures through statement detailing. Wearability, however, is never compromised and, throughout the line, the brand stays loyal to its philosophy of creating clothing for modern and active lifestyles. 08 DREAMGIRL Stand A55 Dangerous liaisons and opulent settings are the inspiration for the latest intriguing collection from lingerie label Dreamgirl. Peakaboo cutouts and oversized bows are key, while back detailing adds a luxurious element to lingerie designed to be admired from all angles. 09 GEISHA Stand G71 New to Moda Woman, womenswear label Geisha arrives from the Netherlands with a range designed to have a broad consumer appeal. The brand’s bestselling denims are key, while its outerwear offer comprises statement yet wearable pieces in contemporary styling. 10 SOREL Stand U1 Canadian label Sorel has evolved from its roots as an outdoor label to a fashion-focused performance brand. This season sees Sorel present its iconic styles alongside a range of new classics, all of which bear the label’s hallmarks of warmth and protection. —

>>>

MODA —

84 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — FEBRUARY 2015

MODA FOOTWEAR Bringing together the sector’s leading labels, from contemporary daywear to evening styles, Moda Footwear is the industry’s national trade event.

MODA —

85 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — FEBRUARY 2015

01 BLOWFISH MALIBU Stand U7 New to Moda Footwear, Blowfish Malibu unveils an updated collection of its classic shapes. Slimmer and sleeker silhouettes are prevalent across the range, while texture also defines the collection with shearling linings and tweeds contributing to a varied palette. 02 IGOR Stand S35 Moda Footwear debutante Igor arrives from Spain’s shoemaking heartland with a diverse collection of rainboots in a range of colours and designs. The Alicante brand offers styles for men, women and children in its signature bright colour palette.

03 BABYCHAM Stand T18 Babycham maintains its statement identity this season with a range of vibrant designs in geometric designs, floral patterns and polka-dot prints. Each piece within the collection is finished with the brand’s trademark clashing linings and bow detailing. 04 BARBOUR Stand V1 Barbour expands its footwear offer for the new season, introducing new daywear styles with a focus on boot silhouettes. Warm linings and quilted panels are key across the women’s collection, while a range of heel heights offers a variety of options for many different occasions. 05 CHATHAM Stand S9 Country styling is key for Chatham this season as the label enters into a new collaboration with Harris Tweed. The brand teams the iconic fabric with its own burnished leather for a classic autumn look across both its women’s and men’s ranges.

06 LISA KAY Stand T10 London label Lisa Kay diversifies for autumn, unveiling a collection of contemporary daywear styles and party heels for eveningwear. Crafted from Italian leather, the range comprises styles designed for longevity, while many pieces are available with co-ordinating accessories. 07 HELLY HANSEN Stand T1 New to Moda Footwear, Helly Hansen arrives at the show with a collection of performance footwear that pays tribute to its Norwegian heritage. The range comprises contemporary shapes with performance features such as breathable mesh uppers and Grip outsoles. 08 LEGERO Stand R29 A pioneer in lightweight footwear, Legero returns to Moda with its latest collection, which combines comfort and contemporary style. Incorporating Gore-Tex into the range, the brand specialises in designs that keep feet dry and warm with no compromise to style.

09 DOLCIS Stand V29 Autumn is a season of extremes for Dolcis as the brand combines ice cool colours with deep faux-fur textures in line with its new, Chronicles of Narnia styling. 10 ROCKET DOG Stand W10 Rocket Dog unveils its All Roads collection at this season’s Moda, a range invigorated by a portfolio of new silhouettes and shapes. Anklesock detailing and faux-fur cuffs add intrigue to the latest designs, while rich tones of grey and brown cement the autumnal theme. 11 AIGLE Stand S4 French footwear label Aigle diversifies its offer this season, adapting its hallmarks for a wide range of women’s day styles with outdoor performance properties.

12 DR MARTENS Stand X11 Dr Martens designs around an eclectic textural palette this season, bringing lux mesh, rubberised and metallic materials, geometric prints and faux fur. — >>>

MODA —

88 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — FEBRUARY 2015

MODA ACCESSORIES From handbags to jewellery, Moda Accessories showcases the must-have complementary pieces for this season’s womenswear trends.

MODA —

89 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — FEBRUARY 2015

01 BETTY BARCLAY Stand O50 Incorporating its core values of fresh trends, stylish design and quality from tradition, German label Betty Barclay arrives at Moda Accessories with a range of stylish but wearable handbags. Cool neutrals offer an alternative to classic black, while a focus on fixtures and detailing adds a finishing quality to each design. 02 BARDOT Stand N31 Feminine pastels make for a wearable colour palette this season as accessories label Bardot returns to Moda with its latest collection of handbags. 03 PIA ROSSINI Stand O10 Accessories label Pia Rossini diversifies this season to include a range of faux-fur gilets within its collection. Complementing the brand’s core offer of gloves, blanket wraps and ponchos, the gilets adopt the label’s style hallmarks of versatility and style longevity.

04 BAA BAA Stand N21 With an emphasis on luxury at the core of every design, Baa Baa specialises in hats, scarves and mittens crafted from fabrics including Toscana and Merino sheepskin. This season sees the brand unveil a collection that spans 16 autumnal shades such as teal, wine and cherry. 05 NV BAGS Stand M29 NV Bags returns to Moda Accessories with a collection of handbags that spans the fashion, classic and occasion sectors. Alongside its range of core styles, the brand will also offer its newly launched Woodlands line, comprising country inspired styles, fabrics and colours. 06 ELIZA GRACIOUS Stand R62 Returning to Moda Accessories’ Adorned platform, Eliza Gracious unveils its latest range of contemporary jewellery in silver and fabric fusions. This season also sees the addition of shimmering gemstones throughout the collection. 07 HEALTHY BACK BAG COMPANY Stand P38 A blend of wintery tones and cutting-edge texture define the latest collection from the Healthy Back Bag Company, which comprises three distinct stories. Urban Sportif captures the energy of the street, Inner Peace celebrates ice-cold colours and woody tones, while Northern Lights takes inspiration from Scandinavian styling.

08 MISS SHORTHAIR Stand N71 Glaswegian brand Miss Shorthair specialises in unique vintage scarves in a range of styles from lightweight to heavier weaves. The brand also offers a range of bags and accessories designed in line with its contemporary styling. 09 GABY’S Stand N11 Jewellery label Gaby’s returns to Moda with its latest range of jewellery and accessories designed to complement trends within the wider womenswear sector. Striking stone-set necklaces are key, while designs in pearls and crystal offer a wide range of options for wedding parties and guests. 10 DENTS Stand M11 Dents adds a new twist on country styling with a range of gloves, handbags and accessories in tartan, tweed and herringbone. The brand’s signature fine leather, meanwhile, is prevalent across the collection in a new range of shimmering hues including pink, silver and black. —

>>>

Quality Luxury

Heritage

Made in Scotland

Stand G28 T: 01450 363100 E: sales@hawickknitwear.com www.hawickknitwear.com

pomodoro AUTUMN 2015

Pure, Olympia, Stand J71, 8th - 10th February Moda UK, NEC, Stand I10, 15th - 17th February Pomodoro Clothing Company Ltd Tel: +44 20 8961 4000 Email: info@pomodoroclothing.com www.pomodoroclothing.com

MODA —

92 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — FEBRUARY 2015

MODA LINGERIE & SWIMWEAR Moda Lingerie & Swimwear brings together the leading names in the intimate apparel sector, while its adjacency to Moda Woman allows buyers across the sectors to see the a/w 15 trends in context.

MODA —

93 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — FEBRUARY 2015

01 GOSSARD Stand B12 Neighbours star Olympia Valance fronts the latest campaign for Gossard, which sees new Everyday line join the ever-diversifying offer. The brand’s Superboost and Glossies styles remain signatures for autumn, while the resurrected Gypsy collection and indulgent VIP range add further options across the eclectic collection. 02 HANRO Stand D48 / D38 Luxurious Swiss loungewear and underwear label Hanro returns to Moda Lingerie with a diverse new line. Feminine lingerie in delicate, all-over lace joins essential styles in natural and black for a wide-ranging collection for every occasion. 03 DIARY DOLL Stand C67 Perfect for periods, pelvic floor and post-maternity use, each pair of pants within the Diary Doll collection features a secret waterproof panel for the utmost in protection. The collection is machine-washable and designed to look exactly like normal underwear, and targets the sports and travel consumer in particular. 04 CURVY KATE Stand C9 The latest collection of swimwear from larger cup-size label Curvy Kate is retro-inspired, incorporating polka dots and nautical elements into flattering silhouettes. The range – available in 28-44 back sizes and D-K cups – is available alongside the brand’s core lingerie offer, which will also be showcased at Moda. 05 AMOENA Stand A17 The focus is on deep berry colours for Amoena this season as the specialist lingerie label unveils a range of post-surgery lingerie with no compromise to style. Each piece is fitted with a pocket designed to hold a breast form, and the collection spans lingerie, swimwear, sleep sets and loungewear. 06 LISE CHARMEL Stand C39 Inspired by a range of influences including the Italian renaissance, impressionist painters and the culture of Venice, the latest line from Lise Charmel is intriguingly eclectic. Calais lace is combined with fine embroidery and Swarovski rhinestones for a range of intricate designs with no compromise to fit and function.

07 CLEO Stand C21 Cleo takes a bold new direction for autumn with fusions of eclectic tribal prints and graphic florals, brought to life in a palette of electric blue, bright coral, canary yellow and deep burgundy. The brand now offers styles in B and C cups, as well as its signature larger cup sizes in D-plus. 08 NATURANA Stand C12 Colour is the focus for Naturana this season as the brand diversifies its palette to include gentle pastel tones, rich fruity hues and cool neutrals. Overall, the collection takes a more fashion-focused route, with an increased range of co-ordinating sets, all available up to F cup. 09 PANACHE Stand C21 Romanticism and the allure of nature form the core inspirations for Panache this season as the lingerie label indulges its designs in a range of autumnal hues. Embellishments and embroidery feature across the collection, while printed styles form a contrast to the core styles in block colours. 10 SEASPRAY Stand C9a Seaspray offers a unique sneak preview of its s/s 16 collection at this month’s Moda Swimwear, revealing a continuation of its ever-popular polka-dot print. The brand also offers a range of swim accessories to complement its core range of swimwear, including bikinis, pareos and kaftans. —

>>>

MODA —

94 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — FEBRUARY 2015

WHAT’S ON AT MODA Discover what Moda has to offer this season as brands join together with trend inspiration, expert business advice and networking events. Don’t miss out. Here’s our essential guide to what’s on. CATWALK THEATRE HALL 17

NEW CATWALK INSPIRATION The event sees growth in its contemporary and directional womenswear offer, reflected by the introduction of the Moda White catwalk show to the daily runway schedule. —

LINGERIE PANEL Discussing the social trends and key stories set to affect the lingerie sector in 2015, our specialist panel will bring together a team of retailers, members of the press, charity activists and research analysts. Topics on the table will include the potential effects of the much anticipated release of 50 Shades of Grey on Valentine’s Day, how digital technologies can enhance or limit customer experiences, and the role of the retailer in delivering and acting on health-related messages. —

LET LYCRA MOVE YOU In Moda Lingerie & Swimwear, the INVISTA LYCRA® fibre team will take over the plaza in Hall 17. Find out about the brand’s latest developments and, while in the area, visit labels offering the latest in loungewear, nightwear and lingerie design. —

BACK TO BEECHES & SUNDAY DRINKS PARTIES Join your peers to celebrate and toast to a new season of business, with the Sunday drinks reception starting from 6pm in the NEC grounds and a premium barbecue at the Beeches Bar & Grill on Monday. Everyone is welcome to the Sunday night reception, but tickets are selling fast for the Beeches barbecue – to secure yours please contact nicole.yates@moda-uk.co.uk or call +44 (0)1484 846069. — FAB RETAIL CLINIC The Fashion Association of Britain, the specialist fashion division of the British Independent Retailers Association, will be on hand giving practical business advice. Take advantage of this free opportunity to access experts on a one-to-one basis on stands MA03 and Z17. —

BE2B The new BE2B Hub will bring together leading e-commerce technologies, retail services and in-store product providers in one stand-out area, making it easier than ever to find all the business know-how and tools you need to enhance your store offer. Take advantage of the seminar programme, which will see a new wave of industry professionals offering their expert opinion and knowledge centred on the retail sector. —

Sunday 15 February 10.00 – 10.30 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 10.45 – 11.15 Fashion catwalk 11.30 – 12.00 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 13.00 – 13.30 Contemporary Fashion catwalk 14.00 – 14.30 FAB Retailer panel 14.45 – 15.15 Fashion catwalk 15.45 – 16.15 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 17.00 – 17.30 Contemporary Fashion catwalk 18.00 – 18.30 Fashion catwalk & drinks — Monday 16 February 10.00 – 10.30 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 10.45 – 11.15 E-commerce panel 11.30 – 12.00 Contemporary Fashion catwalk 12.30 – 13.00 Fashion catwalk 13.30 – 14.00 Marketing & PR panel 14.15 – 14.45 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 15.15 – 15.45 Contemporary Fashion catwalk 16.00 – 16.30 Fashion catwalk 17.00 – 17.30 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk — Tuesday 17 February 10.00 – 10.30 Contemporary Fashion catwalk 10.45 – 11.15 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 11.30 – 12.00 Lingerie panel 12.15 – 12.45 Fashion catwalk 14.30 – 15.00 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk

BE2B HUB Sunday 15 February 11.00 – 11.30 Top to Toe: Stock management 12.15 – 12.45 DownYourHighStreet: The online market place 13.30 – 14.00 Jim Jordan: Business growth 14.00 – 14.30 Jonny Ross: Blogging 15.15 – 15.45 FAB: An idea a minute 16.30 – 17.00 INTO: The social trends affecting retail 17.30 – 18.00 Superia Commerce: Website solutions — Monday 16 February 10.45 – 11.15 Shopa: Social selling 12.00 – 12.30 Jenni Arksey: Spotting brand DNA 13.00 – 13.30 Dennis Reid: Strategies for increasing profit 13.30 – 14.00 FAB: Retail services hotseat 14.15 – 14.45 Martin O’Toole: Making the most of marketing 15.00 – 15.30 Dan Bosomworth: Digital marketing 15.30 – 16.00 Tony Scott: Stock management 16.30 – 17.00 Diligentcommerce: Design and e-commerce — Tuesday 17 February 10.45 – 11.15 Jon Tromans: Writing for online and SEO 12.45 – 13.15 FAB: An idea a minute

VISIT MODA-UK.CO.UK

97 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

TRENDS —

FEBRUARY 2015

WHAT’S THE OCCASION? WWB’s Rebecca Jackson looks at the pick of the autumn/winter 2015 evening and occasionwear trends. —

JOHN CHARLES

>>>

TRENDS —

98 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — FEBRUARY 2015

GINA BACCONI

GLITTER BOMB Featuring strong embellishments and all-over glitter coverings on short and long skirts, it seems it’s all or nothing this season as glitter prepares to come back with bold statement pieces. Smatterings of sequins, meanwhile, remain a good way to experiment with the trend. — MONTIQUE

GLORIA ESTELLES At Moda Montique Stand C13a CRYSTAL BREEZE

ARIELLA

ETERNITY PROM

TRENDS —

99 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — FEBRUARY 2015

At Moda Antonio D’Errico Stand E41 Irresistible Stand G2 John Charles Stand E10 Ann Balon Stand E21 Michaela Louisa Stand H40

PRETTY MAIDS

ANTONIO D’ERRICO

FRANC SARABIA

CARLA RUIZ

ALL LACED UP Lace is an instant crowd-pleaser. Flattering, versatile and a perfect choice for winter eveningwear, there’s a reason the fabric returns every season. —

MICHAELA LOUISA IRRESITIBLE JOHN CHARLES

ANN BALON

>>>

TRENDS —

100 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — FEBRUARY 2015

At Moda Michaela Louisa Stand H40 Antonio D’Errico Stand E41 Paola Stand I58

FRAU BLAU

MICHAELA LOUISA

JOSEPH RIBKOFF

COLOUR CLASH Clashing colours make a true style statement, and are perfect for brightening up dull winter days. This year a sophisticated and understated colour palette has also emerged. —

ANTONIO D’ERRICO

MASHIAH ARRIVE CABOTINE

PAOLA

ZEILA

>>>

Pure Stand J112 Moda, NEC Stand G10

FRANK SAUL (FASHIONS) LTD. FRANK SAUL HOUSE, STEELE ROAD, PARK ROYAL, LONDON NW10 7AR TEL . + 44 (0) 208 965 1522 FAX. + 44 (0) 208 965 1518 E.MAIL. info@franksaul.com WEB. www.mascaracollection.com Copyright © 2013 - 2016 Frank Saul Fashions and/ or its suppliers. All rights reserved © Crown copyright 2012. All rights reserved

102 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

TRENDS —

FEBRUARY 2015

FRAU BLAU

ETERNITY PROM

At Moda Mascara Stand G10 Bernshaw Stand I50

MASCARA

BLUE HUE Cobalt blue may be the colour of a/w 15, but there are plenty of other shades to play around with. Colour outside the line with hues of sapphire, dark navy and azure. —

MASHIAH ARRIVE

ZEILA CRYSTAL BREEZE CABOTINE

BERNSHAW

>>>

Pure Stand J112 Moda, NEC Stand G10

FRANK SAUL (FASHIONS) LTD. FRANK SAUL HOUSE, STEELE ROAD, PARK ROYAL, LONDON NW10 7AR TEL . + 44 (0) 208 965 1522 FAX. + 44 (0) 208 965 1518 E.MAIL. info@franksaul.com WEB. www.lateliercollection.com Copyright © 2013 - 2016 Frank Saul Fashions and/ or its suppliers. All rights reserved © Crown copyright 2012. All rights reserved

TRENDS —

104 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — FEBRUARY 2015

MICHAELA LOUISA

MASCARA

ZEILA

A BLACK AND WHITE AFFAIR This season, monochrome comes in a range of styles for any occasion. Clean lines take the trend to sophisticated levels, while short, flirty skirts create a playful look. —

GINA BACCONI

At Moda Mascara Stand G10 Michaela Louisa Stand H40 Linea Raffaelli Stand E48 L’Atelier Stand G10

L’ATELIER LINEA RAFFAELLI

JOSEPH RIBKOFF

106 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

INSIGHT —

FEBRUARY 2015

SARAH RECEIVES A MAKE-UP TOUCH-UP BETWEEN TAKES MODEL AMELIA TAKES THE OPPORTUNITY TO WARM UP DURING HAIR AND MAKE-UP

ROUNDHILL FARM PROVIDES THE SETTING FOR THE SHOOT

TIME-OUT BETWEEN TAKES

AMELIA POSES FOR A TEST SHOOT

107 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

INSIGHT —

FEBRUARY 2015

LIFE THROUGH A LENS As brands across the sector unveil their campaigns for the new autumn season, Christina Williams takes a look behind the scenes at what really happens at a photo shoot. — It’s a chilly January morning in Gloucestershire and, as the morning mist lifts over Roundhill Farm, the only sound to be heard is the excited yapping of models Barney and Betsy, who are making their way over to the scene of today’s shoot. The old adage may advise never to work with children and animals but, for contemporary womenswear label Lily & Me, the black Labrador duo is essential to the outdoor country theme of its a/w 15 shoot. Accompanying the stars of the show are models Sarah and Amelia, sourced from Bristol agency Mustard Models and hardened professionals when it comes to high winds, scores of outfit changes and January temperatures. The cast is completed by five year-old Lily, daughter of company directors Amelia Haywood and Hari Bhatta, and the inspiration behind the entire label. With three days booked at Roundhill Farm, bets are well and truly hedged when it comes to the possibility of inclement weather. But as conditions seem chilly but dry for the time being, the team opts to carry out the outdoor elements of the shoot first. The lush green fields, leaf-strewn paths and corrugated cowshed make for an eclectic backdrop, and photographer Rosie Blake gets to work capturing the essence of Lily & Me’s latest offer. “Rosie seemed to know instinctively what we wanted,” says Zeena Lemon, Lily & Me’s head of marketing, as she warmed up with a cup of coffee after the shoot. “We shot a range of images from outdoor walks to indoor style using over 60 pieces from our collection.” After the outdoor takes, the team moves inside to the farmhouse where the evening light and rustic English charm makes for a wonderful contrast to the great outdoors. “The vivid hues and moods of an autumn afternoon inspired the stunning prints in our autumn 2015 collection, but fireside folk tales and cosy kitchen chats complete the theme,” says Zeena Lemon, as the photographer opts for the best angle within the small but cosy living space. “This shoot in particular is a key stage of development for us, as we have grown significantly since the s/s 14 shoot, honing our marketing and brand. It was vital that the images we got defined where we are now and where we want to be going forward.” —

EVENTS —

108 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — FEBRUARY 2015

THE BERLIN EDIT WWB’S ROUND-UP OF THE A/W 15 TRADE SHOWS. —

SHABATIN

D.EFECT

Bigger spaces and more brands brought greater numbers of visitors to Berlin’s key shows, Panorama, Premium and Seek, which were hailed a success by organisers, exhibitors and buyers alike. —

Brands looked to artists for design inspiration, as seen at Lithuanian brand D.Efect and Polish label Shabatin, where collaborations with local painters gave fresh, gallery-worthy results.

PART TWO

CREENSTONE

Confident red, from scarlet and cherry to deep maroon, was a hero hue, appearing as smart tailoring, soft casualwear and everything in between.

p Berlin has long been associated with graffiti and street art, and MARC CAIN

the city plays host to wall after wall of colour and expression, including this impressive mural that sits opposite Premium.

Light fantastic The eclectic lighting at the shows jostled with the collections for attention, as a rainbow of neon blazed alongside stark urban metal and fluffy cloud formations. —

EVENTS —

109 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — FEBRUARY 2015

BACK TO THE STREET Karl-Heinz Muller’s 40 brand “guerilla” trade show buzzed at the city’s Bread & Butter offices, with womenswear labels including Minnie Rose, Bickley & Mitchell and Drykorn. —

— BEAUTIFUL FABRICS, FINE, SOFT KNITS AND SIMPLE, PARED-DOWN SILHOUETTES GAVE AN AIR OF UNDERSTATED LUXE. —

INUOVO

YUMI LA FÉE MARABOUTÉE

LAUREN GEOGHEGAN

Polished metallic tones enriched the collections, giving a/w a delightfully decadent and sometimes futuristic feel. —

BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN

OILILY

SAMSOE & SAMSOE

Acid yellows popped out against dark backgrounds to dramatic effect, in splashes, bold graphics or tone-on-tone blocks. — ILSE JACOBSEN

SARA C

CLOTHING

LANIUS

WITH A CONSCIENCE Organic, sustainable and ethical but stylish was the mantra from brands such as Lanius and Armedangels, with others such as Twist & Tango introducing sustainable lines to their collections for a/w. —

DARK STARS NOA NOA

— LAST SUMMER’S ESSENTIAL KIMONO WAS REINVENTED FOR A/W, IN HEAVIER FABRICS, MORE GRAPHIC DESIGNS AND STRUCTURED SHAPES. —

Dark inky blues and indigos dripped over pale base colours and drenched fabrics across the shows. — LANIUS

110 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

FORUM —

FEBRUARY 2015

RETAIL DIARY We opened our second store – in Ely – in December, and the initial response has been overwhelming. We were even contacted by BBC Look East, which was running a feature on an “independent Christmas”, so we couldn’t have wished for a more promising welcome. People came by and bought from us; others told us they love what we’re doing and assured us that they’ll return once the Christmas debts are paid for. If they keep to their word I’ll be able to pay the rent, which is pretty much the sum of it as an independent retailer. The dynamic between the two locations – Hackford and Ely – works well, since the Hackford shop tends to be quiet between November and January. It’s essentially a destination store in the middle of nowhere, and the majority of ladies who shop there have bought their outfits and occasionwear by the start of December. This was fortunate since we hadn’t imagined we would be opening the new store before Christmas and hadn’t bought stock accordingly. The customers in Ely found us largely on the back of our presence at the Ely Cathedral Christmas Fair. For the past three years, we have held a pop-up shop there – which has developed our profile. This Christmas we knew we’d be opening within a matter weeks so upped the ante in terms of promoting the arrival of Artichoke to Ely. As a PR stunt it couldn’t have been better; we distributed over 1,000 cards during the fair. In addition, we regularly take the pop-up to West Norfolk, Cambridgeshire and Royston, all of which are within easy driving distances of Ely, so we have this concept to thank for our regional profile. The pop-up concept was never a strategic, business decision on my part, but has fitted with the way my life has evolved. It’s hard work, but over a six-month period it turns over the same as a bricks-and-mortar. New for spring is Hatley, a Canadian label new to the UK. I had plans to work with another, more established brand, but the £2,000 minimum was unrealistic. Independent retailers should remember they do have the right to say “no” as well as “yes” to suppliers. — Sarah Simonds is the owner of Artichoke in Norfolk, and is a member of The Fashion Association of Britain (FAB) www. fashionassociationbritain.co.uk

RETAIL FORUM The latest news from the industry —

25 YEARS AT MELANGE FASHION

WHITE RIBBON BOUTIQUE PLANS EXPANSION Director of the White Ribbon Boutique Sheila Torres-Fernandez has announced she will expand its operation with plans to open a new shop during 2015. The independent retailer, based in Northwich, Cheshire, had a successful start last summer and has built a legion of fans. Thus the next step for Torres-Fernandez is an expansion. Areas of suitability will be looked at over the next few months before a location is chosen. TorresFernandez says, “It truly has been a fantastic start, especially given these austere times. The success is possibly down to trading with affordable prices. We also offer a welcoming, fun atmosphere where customer service is foremost in our delivery and never compromised whatever they spend.” —

Debbie Wilson, owner of Melange Fashion in Cornwall, celebrated 25 years at the store in August last year. However, Wilson has extended the store’s “silver sale” to last throughout winter as part of the celebrations. The service in-store remains just as flexible as always, with a free alteration service available to its customers. However, the store has also had to adapt to changing times. “I think my core business has changed dramatically since I opened 25 years ago,” says Wilson. “I sold much more co-ordinated separates, now it is item pieces, good-quality jeans, trousers, knitwear, and generally basic quality items that create a backbone to any wardrobe.” —

111 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

FORUM —

FEBRUARY 2015

DORCHESTER RETAIL AWARDS LAUNCHES The Dorchester Independent Retail Awards launched last month, organised by independent retail expert Spotcheckers and in conjunction with Dorchester Chamber of Commerce (DCC) and the Dorchester Business Improvement District (BID). Eleven awards are up for grabs including Best Customer Service, Best Window Display, Best Use of Social Media and Website, Best Newcomer and Best Individual Member of Staff. Businesses have been shortlisted by Spotcheckers, and a mystery shopping judging process will take place over the next month. The winners will be crowned at a ceremony held at Kingston Maurward College on 20 March 2015, when awards will be presented by Downton Abbey creator Lord Fellowes of West Stafford. David Upshall, from DCC, says, “We are part funding the initiative together with the BID and we are very excited. We see this as an important opportunity to recognise and support the independent retailers of Dorchester, who contribute such a lot on a day-to-day basis and are extremely important to the local economy of Dorchester.” It is hoped by organisers that the awards will become an annual event on the calendar. Director Mandy Payne will also run the Poole Retail Awards in May where there will be a separate category for independents. —

What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever been given?

HILARY COOKSON Owner, Maureen Cookson, Whalley, Lancashire

“Don’t over-invest in one idea. Keep plenty of them up your sleeve to keep interest alive. Ideas are the lifeblood of a business, because if you always do what you’ve always done, you will always get what you’ve always got.” —

DIANE ALLAN Co-owner, Algarde, Biggar, South Lanarkshire

“Follow your instincts as they are usually always right.” —

THIS SEASON KASIA COLE, OWNER, SWISH BOUTIQUE, MARLOW, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE I will be attending Moda, Scoop and Top Drawer this season. My wish list will include more premium products at higher price points. We had a very good response to some of our more expensive brands over the last few months, and as a result we decided to invest more into brands that offer a point of difference and quality even if it comes at a higher price. This differs from our a/w 14 offer as we will offer more choice for premium sector customers. We are looking to take on new brands, but we have a strict selection process in place. First we believe price has to reflect the quality. We do believe that some suppliers overcharge for their product, so we’ll keep that in mind. Secondly we will look out for something with a wow factor. There are lots of customers out there who look for a point of difference. We sell a lot of dresses, so we’ll definitely look into buying variety of styles to cover a broad customer range. We’ve had a very good a/w 14 season, with an exceptionally good run-up to Christmas. This season we’re spending more, but keeping an eye on weekly sales and keeping some budget for in-season purchases. —

PENNY KLEIN Co-founder, Heidi Klein, London W3

“If you want something you’ve never had, you must be willing to do something you have never done. I can’t recall where I heard this, but it rings true to me in many ways.” —

RACHEL PALM Manager, Julie Fitzmaurice, Harrogate, North Yorkshire

“It’s not what you wear, it’s how you wear it.” —

DIRECTORY —

112 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — FEBRUARY 2015

GARMENT STANDS

HEADWEAR

STEAMERS AND IRONS

To advertise please call Sam on

01484 846069

HAT BOXES

or email sam@ras-publishing.com

RETAIL SYSTEMS WANTED

DISPLAYS

To advertise please call Sam on

01484 846069

or email sam@ras-publishing.com

114 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL —

FEBRUARY 2015

WENDY WILSON

Two decades on from the launch of directional womenswear label Closet, chief designer Wendy Wilson has overseen the growth of the brand internationally and, most recently, its expansion into the US this season.

How did you get into design? I was born in South Africa, and as a child I was always into clothes. I had a gap year Interrailing around Europe after finishing school. I loved living in the UK, however my parents found a fashion design course that they enrolled me in to lure me back home. I trained in South Africa and worked there for a few years before moving back to the UK. I wanted to travel but couldn’t get a job as a waitress so ended up getting a job in the industry instead, and the rest is history. What are the style hallmarks of the s/s 15 collection? Lovely prints, textured fabrics and, as always, dresses, but we are playing with the shapes we are known for and adding interesting details and longer lengths. What’s in the pipeline for a/w 15? We are launching our re-brand, and adding more separates and coats in fabulous colours with lace-up details. There are some lovely jewel-coloured jacquards in full skirts and dresses. Who is the Closet girl? There are three Closet girls: Alice, a young graduate who buys a Closet dress every now and then for an interview or a wedding; Charlotte, the social working woman who has an occasion every weekend where she needs a new dress; and Suzanne, the yummy mummy who wants to look sophisticated but fashionable. What is your personal style? Funky separates with interesting accessories and shoes, very fashion-led. What has been your proudest moment? Seeing girls on the street or the tube wearing our clothes. How would you like to see the brand develop in the future? I would like to launch standalone Closet shops and see more brand recognition.

INSIDER

— Who is your style icon? Jenna Lyons, Olivia Palermo and Shala Monroque. Which fashion designer do you admire? Miuccia Prada and Consuelo Castiglioni, the designer at Marni. What’s the best piece of advice you have been given? Buy what you love, not what you think you need. Find your style and add a few “now” pieces to make it look relevant and up-to-date. What is the one fashion item you cannot live without? Fabulous shoes. —