AUGUST 2013 — ISSUE 230 WOMENSWEAR BUYER
— CAPITAL GAINS Tina Lake on the success of London Boutiques —
— WIDENING THE NET Boomerang’s ambitious plans for the UK market —
— DESIGN FEVA A look behind the scenes at the Cheltenham indie —
— MODA PREVIEW WWB’s comprehensive guide to this month’s show —
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CONTENTS —
REGULARS
FEATURES
FASHION
9 EDITOR’S COMMENT — 10 NEWS — 18 BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear — 20 TALKING POINT — 92 RETAIL FORUM The latest news from the industry — 94 ADVICE Experts answer your questions — 98 UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL With satchel entrepreneur Julie Deane —
22 Q&A With Tina Lake, founder of London-Boutiques.com — 41 THE BOOMERANG EFFECT The Danish brand’s plans for UK success — 90 FASHION FEVA WWB visits the Cheltenham indie — FRONT COVER CAMEL ACTIVE —
28 STYLE FILE — 31 10 OF THE BEST Fruity colours — 36 FASHION RADAR — 47 SPRING/SUMMER 2014 AT MODA A comprehensive preview of the exhibition — 77 NIGHT VISION Evening and occasionwear trends for s/s 14 — 84 SCOOP INTERNATIONAL The highlights from last month’s event — 88 BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN The key trends from the streetwear show —
SPRING / SUMMER 2014
WWW.OSCARB.COM
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Editor Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com — Contributors Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Kirkpatrick laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — Sub editor Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — Design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — Senior advertising sales manager Mina Parmar mina@ras-publishing.com — Sales executive Jasprit Sihra jasprit@ras-publishing.com — Subscriptions Lydia Bennett lydia.bennett@ite-exhibitions.com — Production director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — Commercial director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com — Reprographics/printing ImageData Group 01482 652323
— WWB is published 11 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 — Copyright © 2013 WWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication. —
RAS Publishing is an ITE Group PLC company A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication WWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include MWB and CWB.
COMMENT —
WHEN I ASK INDIES WHAT GIVES THEM THE BIGGEST HEADACHE WHEN IT COMES TO RETAILING, NINE TIMES OUT OF TEN THE ANSWER IS “BUSINESS RATES”. —
The issue of business rates is a topic that is not going away, and it is becoming increasingly apparent that this is one tax that is affecting and crippling SMEs more than anything else. Research conducted for the Grimsey Review an alternative review of the high street lead by retail stalwart Bill Grimsey, former CEO of Wickes, Big Food Group and Focus DIY, forming a counterpart to the highly controversial Portas Review – has found that one in seven business premises were summoned to appear before magistrates last year after falling behind on business-rate payments. In numbers, this equates to 262,086 stores that were plainly unable to pay business rates. For most indies, business rates account for half or more of their rents, adding a hefty cost to overheads. There are many ways in which business rates could be calculated in a fairer way, be it based on turnover of a business, the amount of stores it has, or profitability. But what is clear is that a dramatic overhaul of the way business rates are calculated is needed. Last month, the debate gained a number of high-profile supporters, most notably Arcadia’s Philip Green and Sainsbury’s Justin King, who called on the government to give SMEs a break from business rates, or freeze them at the least. At first glance, it’s good news that such influential retailers are throwing their weight behind the cause. However, a
straw poll conducted by WWB has shown that most of you are sceptical whether it will achieve anything, with indies generally in agreement that the government will continue to just pay lip service instead of really tackling the issue at its core – but that would mean losing a very lucrative cash cow. Read our findings on page 10 and let us know your thoughts and views on the subject, or any other issue by emailing me or tweeting @wwbmagazine.
Isabella Griffiths, editor
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NEWS —
BUSINESS RATES CAMPAIGN GAINS NEW SUPPORT Philip Green and Justin King have publicly called on the government to help struggling retailers on the thorny issue of business rates, but many indies remain sceptical whether it will lead to the much needed overhaul of the system. —
Industry heavyweights including Arcadia boss Philip Green, Sainsbury’s CEO Justin King and the British Retail Consortium brought the ongoing business-rate debate back into the spotlight last month, calling on the government to help struggling high streets with a business-rate freeze for small retailers. While most indies have welcomed such a public lobbying of the issue, a straw poll conducted by WWB showed that few indies have hopes it will lead to change, stressing that instead of lip service, a dramatic overhaul of the way business rates are calculated is needed. In Lytham St Annes, Natalie Peters, owner of womenswear indie Amabo, says business rates are “crippling” SMEs and, in her case, equate to half her rental figure. “As the owner of an SME, there is no confidence that the government is listening,” she says. High-street big-hitters are needed to get the government to wake up to the fact that an outdated model must be updated to work with the business structures of today – bricks and mortar, internet, e-tail and so on.” This is mirrored by Alexandra Boardman, owner of Alexandra’s of Keswick, who has been lobbying for the issue on both local and national government level. “Rates continue to go up, yet it is difficult to see how
my town benefits from them since they go directly to the government and not to my local town council. Business rates are based on the valuations in 2008 – we are in a different trading position now,” she says. “I don’t think the government or decision-makers listen to the smaller traders. They often seek advice from the likes of Philip Green, who is an expert on the multiples but not necessarily on the small independent. A lot of issues arise when they treat a small business the same as a large one.” Joanna Davies, owner of Wilmslow indie Black White Denim, agrees, “It’s good that some heavyweights are highlighting the issue, but I don’t think it will get the focus and action from the government that it deserves,” she says. “The government is primarily driving the reduction of deficit through increases in tax, so I cannot see them reducing or freezing business rates. It’s a huge cost – one that is a heavy burden, and I don’t even know what we get for it.” The latest research carried out on behalf of the Grimsey Review, an alternative review of the high street to the Portas Review lead by retail veteran Bill Grimsey and a number of industry experts, has found that around 262,086 business premises were summoned to appear before a magistrate last
“It’s good that some heavyweights are highlighting the issue, but I don’t think it will get the focus and action from the government that it deserves” year after falling behind on business rate payments. Out of those, 131,574 would have been referred to bailiffs for collection. The report reiterates the growing sentiment that business rates are an unsustainably high burden on retailers, particularly SMEs. “Year after year we’re seeing big rates rises,” says Paul Turner-Mitchell, industry campaigner and owner of Rochdale indie 25 Ten Boutique, who is also one of the core members of the Grimsey Review. “We’ve had two recessions and virtually no growth in the last five years. Yet the government’s medicine to support businesses has been a £2bn rise in business rates in the last two years. It does not make sense. We need to be supported, not seen as a cash cow.”
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NEWS —
BERNSHAW RELAUNCHES WITH TIGHTER OFFER Evening and occasionwear brand Bernshaw has relaunched for s/s 14 with a more streamlined offer aimed at attracting a younger audience while keeping hold of its core customer. Key changes include the use of new fabrics, original prints and an adjustment of price points, with lower entry level prices and higher exit tickets to appeal to a wider retailer base, with wholesale prices ranging between £80 and £195. The brand is aimed at the 35-50 age group at the core and is focusing on the independent market. “We have readjusted our offer to bring it more in line with customer demand and attract a younger consumer while also still staying loyal to our existing customers,” says MD Alex Bernstein. The s/s 14 line has been divided into four core stories: Sunset Sorbet, focusing on lace pieces; Sci Fi, with a focus on silver and white pieces; Sculpt, a focus on flattering and structured cuts; and Geometry, referencing a black-and-white trend. —
EUGEN KLEIN REPORTS STRONG GROWTH German womenswear brand Eugen Klein has seen a 33 per cent rise in forward-order sales for a/w 13 compared to a/w 12. Despite the tough market conditions, the brand has shown a strong performance, strengthening its position in the UK & Eire. The growth has been primarily driven by solid sell-throughs thanks to competitive price points, as well as styles that have been designed with UK market specifics in mind. “Even in this difficult economic climate, the brand is going from strength to strength,” says Justine Trend-Evans, UK & Eire managing director. “We attribute this to meticulous quality control, excellent sell-throughs and the fact that I have direct input on colour and design from initial development each season to accommodate the needs of the UK & Eire markets. Although evolving, we maintain the continuity that our core market requires.” The label currently has 155 stockists, including the likes of Anne Furbank, Helen Winterson, Maureen Cookson and Elizabeth Rose, with Trend-Evans indicating that she still sees potential for growth without wanting to be over-exposed. —
NICOLE FARHI RESCUED FROM ADMINISTRATION Fashion brand Nicole Farhi has been saved from administration following a deal secured by Maxine Hargreaves-Adams, daughter of Matalan founder John Hargreaves. The company was bought for an undisclosed sum after it became the latest retail victim earlier this month. The deal sees Hargreaves-Adams buy all its six stores including its flagship branch in London’s Mayfair, as well as the label’s online retail arm – saving 75 jobs in its retail network and 44 at its London headquarters. — KATE BOSTOCK RESIGNS FROM ASOS Kate Bostock, the former executive director of product and trading at Asos, has resigned from her position with immediate effect, citing that the fashion e-tailer wasn’t the “right place” for her. Bostock, who joined Asos in January this year, previously held the position of head of clothing at Marks & Spencer. “Asos is a formidable business, and I have great respect for the team I have been working with; they are right at the cutting edge of young online fashion,” says Bostock. “Sadly, I’ve concluded that Asos isn’t the right place for me. I will not regret the experience and I wish all at Asos continued success.” — SARAH CURRAN LEAVES MY-WARDROBE.COM Sarah Curran, founder of premium online store My-Wardrobe.com, has left the e-tailer to pursue new ventures. Curran stepped down as CEO in 2012 but remained the public face of the company in a restructure that saw former Harrods Direct director David Worby come on board in April last year. This was followed by Carmen Borgonovo, previously Harper’s Bazaar’s fashion director, in November 2012, who were both tasked to streamline the business and take it to the next level of its development. It is yet unconfirmed what Curran’s next project will be.
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NEWS —
CARE CHALLENGE ATTRACTS BIG NAMES IN FASHION Hugo Boss, Gucci and Urban Outfitters are the latest to enter teams for the annual Prima Solutions Adventure Challenge on 28 September in aid of Care International. They join over 30 other teams from across the fashion and retail sector already signed up to take on a marathon on foot, bike and canoe, this time in the scenic Forest of Dean. “This is our third time taking part in the Prima Solutions Adventure Challenge,” says Anthony Carder, team leader for Hugo Boss. “It’s the most awesome event in the fashion industry calendar. It brings people together with the chance to team-build with colleagues and meet other people in our industry. We’d encourage other companies to enter – it is truly a worthwhile experience.” Funds raised will support Care International’s poverty fighting work. The challenge will be followed by a well-earned dinner, awards and party. To take part visit www.carechallenge.org.uk/primasolutions or call 020 7091 6111. —
TCA SHOWROOM EXPANDS BRAND PORTFOLIO London fashion agency TCA Showroom has added French brand IKKS and Italian labels Sistes, Fairly, Silvian Heach and Stefanel to its growing portfolio, representing the labels from s/s 14.
Silvian Heach
The agency’s Chelsea showroom has been updated and extended to house the new additions and create a new area for each brand. The sales team has also increased with the appointment of two new brand managers. Anna Bronowska will look after the IKKS and Fairly labels, while Isabella Sferrazza will deal with Silvian Heach and Sistes. They are reporting to womenswear brand manager Kinsie Sidolle, who will be handling Stefanel. “We are delighted to have added such a strong selection of labels to our portfolio and we look forward to growing them in the UK and Ireland,” says Sidolle. —
CENTRAL TRADE LTD BECOMES DISTRIBUTOR OF BLUNDSTONE Central Trade Ltd – the sole distributor of Birkenstock in the UK and Northern Ireland – has become the exclusive distributor of Tasmanian footwear label Blundstone. Established in 1870, Blundstone is known for its iconic elastic-sided boots, as well as offering casual boots for both men and women and heavy industrial footwear options. — NEW WEBSITE FOR JTMS AGENCY The Janet Thurston and Mary Skinner Agency has launched its website, www.jtmsagency.com, giving customers easy access to a wealth of information and features, including speedy access to the agency’s designers as well as clearly informing the viewer of its services. Social media has also been integrated, with Facebook and Instagram used to attract and engage with a wider audience. — LISA KAY LAUNCHES HANDBAG RANGE Footwear brand Lisa Kay is expanding its product portfolio with the introduction of a handbag range for s/s 14. The capsule collection comprises 42 styles, with key pieces including totes, shoppers, shoulder bags and cross-body bags made from leathers and other high-quality fabrics. Key colours include metallics, camels and taupes, pale blue and white. The collection will wholesale between £8 and £40, with key retail tickets priced between £49 and £59. The range is predominantly targeted at department stores and quality fashion, footwear and giftware independents. The brand is hoping to open around 100 accounts for its first season, debuting the handbag range officially at Moda Footwear alongside its main collection.
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NEWS —
CLICK & COLLECT TO BE WORTH £4BN IN 2018
LEVI’S LAUNCHES NEW SHAPING JEAN
New data from market analyst Verdict has revealed that by 2018 Click & Collect purchases will have grown by two thirds, accounting for a value of £4bn.
Levi’s has added a new range of shaping jeans to its portfolio in a bid to take a bigger slice of the growing shapewear denim market.
With consumers continuing to put emphasis on convenience and speed of delivery, the growth of Click & Collect will be rapid, however it will still only account for eight per cent of online sales in 2018 and just 1.2 per cent of total retail sales due to the rise of other fulfilment options that will gain in popularity, too. “Home delivery companies and pure play online retailers are monitoring the development of Click & Collect and are reacting accordingly,” says Matthew Rubin, analyst at Verdict. “They are looking to offer collection points at convenience stores and lockers, same-day delivery, narrower delivery time slots, and improved tracking and updates of estimated delivery times.” Clothing and footwear lead the way and have the highest penetration of Click & Collect, with 23.5 per cent of online shoppers and 46.5 per cent of Click & Collect users having used the service in the sector. —
Levi’s Revel Jeans follows in the footsteps of the brand’s Curve ID range, launched in 2010. The collection uses an exclusive Liquid Shaping Technology, which has been fused into the denim, promising to shape, lift and lengthen the body. The innovative element of the new technology is said to work by controlling the fabric’s four-way stretch in strategic areas, promising a more comfortable wearing experience. —
DOUBLE SCOOP DELIVERS SUCCESSFUL SHOW Last month’s directional trade show Scoop International delivered another record edition, with an additional 150 exhibitors and buyer footfall up by 21 per cent in its July 2012 edition. The show gathered over 400 brands in total, with this season having premiered a second venue, Phillips, to accommodate the growth of the show, which started six seasons ago with just 50 labels. Premium retailers from the likes of Harrods, Matches, Browns, Fenwick, Fortnum & Mason, Liberty, Harvey Nichols and Net-a-Porter, along with high-profile indies, attended the show. Among the visitors was Pamela Shiffer, owner of the eponymous London indie. “I loved every minute of Scoop International, excellent locations, interesting mix of labels and well edited,” she says. “It’s now a must-visit show in my diary.” Next season’s edition will be held on 19-21 January 2014, taking place once again at London’s Saatchi Gallery and Phillips. —
YOURBRANDSPACE.COM SEES INTERNATIONAL INTEREST Online wholesale fashion hub Yourbrandspace.com has announced international buyers now count for 30 per cent of its total membership. The free service, founded in 2011, is used by buyers from across Europe, the Middle East, Africa and the US. Featured brands benefit from interest from markets that they would have otherwise been unable to penetrate. — EMPLOYEE THEFT ON THE RISE A recent study into retail theft suggests that insider fraud is on the rise, accounting for 27 per cent of store loss across all retail sectors, while external theft is only marginally ahead, accounting for 30 per cent. The findings of the Volumatic Kount UK Retail Fraud Survey 2013, commissioned by analyst Retail Knowledge, which surveyed 100 of the UK’s top retailers, highlights the under-reported nature of theft by employees and reveals that insider shoplifting of merchandise is an increasing concern for retailers. — FASHION SVP AND UKFT JOIN FORCES IDEX, the organiser of Fashion SVP, the near-shore fashion sourcing event, and the UK Fashion & Textile Association (UKFT) are taking a combined approach to highlight the role of British fashion and garment manufacture. UKFT and the IDEX group will be working co-operatively in the run-up to the event at London’s Olympia on 22-24 September 2013 on show features and promotion. “UKFT is delighted to be able to lend our support to a show that connects retailers, wholesalers and sourcing companies with textile, garment and fabric manufacturers,” says John Miln, CEO of UKFT. “As a leading voice for the fashion and textile industry, we’re looking forward to having a presence at Fashion SVP this September to engage with our members who attend the show.”
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PEOPLE —
BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear —
TRAFFIC-FREE REGENT STREET HUGE SUCCESS
LOCATION LOCATION LOCATION IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR A COOL LOCATION FOR YOUR NEXT PHOTO, FILM OR ADVERTISING SHOOT, PRESS DAY OR POP-UP EVENT AND FANCY A QUIRKY RETRO ENVIRONMENT, DEERHURST ROAD IS THE LOCATION FOR YOU. THE LARGE FAMILY HOME IS ENTIRELY DECKED OUT IN ORIGINAL 70S FURNITURE AND DÉCOR, AND FEATURES A LARGE SWIMMING POOL, TOO. TO FIND OUT MORE VISIT WWW.DEERHURSTROAD.CO.UK OR CALL GILLIAN MILNER ON 07788 741908.
FUTURE VISION
— The Future is Here is the name of a major new exhibition at the Design Museum about the changes in manufacturing that are transforming the world. The show runs until 29 October. —
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Barbour was among the selected brands to take part in last month’s Coronation Festival at Buckingham Palace Gardens. The brand featured in a catwalk show, which told the story of British fashion over the past 60 years.
Regent Street was recently transformed into a hub of creative activity during a series of traffic-free Sundays. The Summer Streets programme embraced urban art with dance performances, live music, a flashmob choir and a mass participation chalk drawing event. This was followed by The Street is My Catwalk event, during which visitors were encouraged to strut their stuff on the street’s 100m catwalk, as well as six professional runway shows, and The Garden in Regent Street the following week. —
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DASHWOOD BOAT CLUB PARTIES AT HENLEY REGATTA Rowing inspired lifestyle brand Dashwood Boat Club hosted a party during Henley Royal Regatta last month with VIP guests from the world of rowing, athletics and celebrity. Guests included rowing heroes Helen Glover MBE, Charles Cousins and Peter Lambert, as well as Olympian and Dashwood Boat Club ambassador Vicky Thornley. ▼
Diesel celebrates young talent Denim giant Diesel has nominated Xiao Li, a student of the Royal College of Art, as this year’s winner of its ITS (International Talent Support) award. Artistic director Nicola Formichetti (pictured left) presented Li with the prestigious prize, which sees her take home ¤25,000 to use to promote her work and invest in her career. In addition, Li won a six-month internship with the Diesel creative team at the company’s HQ in Italy. —
Rich Cross, founder of Dashwood Boat Club, first row, far right, with team and guests
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OPINION —
TALKING POINT Key industry players give their views on the issue that affect womenswear. —
THE SIMPLE IDEAS ARE OFTEN THE MOST EFFECTIVE
SHORT-ORDER BRANDS DEPEND ON GOOD SUPPLY CHAIN
At the Bira High Street Conference in May, I found myself struck by a torrent of salient and yet neglected truths; nuggets of retail wisdom so obvious that one could almost feel the palpable gasp of breath resonate as 300 delegates and retail members pondered them deeply in unison.
In an industry dominated by companies producing in the Far East, few brands can truly boast that they are “made in England”.
There were various latent themes throughout the discussions and debates at the conference, but one thread was noticeable for its blindingly simple solution – parking. It was said that the Portas Pilot scheme has been a powerful PR tool for the retail industry, but that the big issues remain business rates, town-centre planning, out-of-town centres, online competition and... parking. Asked why they did not shop locally as much as they’d like, customers quizzed in vox pops explained how the unreasonably high parking charges in town centres made trips to their town centre unaffordable and unattractive. We all know the majority of these car parks are council-run, and a supportive and savvy council would work with their local community to make this connection between the town-centre footfall and adapt parking charges accordingly. We also know those same councils are more interested in other projects and, sadly, local retail communities are too often fragmented by competing business groups that distract them from the elephant in the room. The proverbial elephant in the room being this – either we, the retailers, see the bigger picture and work together in the knowledge that we’ll all benefit; or ditch the resignation and take action unilaterally. It was in the mindset of the latter (sadly, we have already encountered the former scenario in Colchester) that Ambiance proposed to our customers that they can park at the local car park “on us” (albeit with a few restrictions). Predictably, the media noise that the campaign created in the local press generated a revitalised debate on the subject and redirected the focus on the local indies. We had a half page in two papers and were contacted by the Tax Payers’ Alliance, with whom we are now working on a number of other business-related issues and campaigns. Customers value human interaction, instant gratification, personal service and having their senses assailed from every direction. None of the above can be sought online. It was an impulse and instinct that led me to send the press release to the paper and broadcast the new policy to our customers. Ultimately, it will be those same emotions – together with pragmatic business decisions – that will safeguard the footfall on our streets. —
At Closet we are very proud to support the British manufacturing industry with our labels designed and made in London, particularly as the market is increasingly moving towards short order and fast fashion. As a buyer for 12 years, I have seen and welcomed the shift towards “quick response” collections, but a true short-order range needs a good supply chain close to home. I have always been a champion of indie brands and boutiques but, like many, know how tough it can be in the consistently challenging retail climate, having had to close my own online boutique a few years ago. Short-order brands allow buyers the luxury of reacting quicker to fluctuations in sales as well as buying into the latest trends without under or over committing to orders six months in advance. At Closet we have really noticed the growing rise in customers wanting short-order collections, both boutiques and larger customers. The latter often do trial orders of small quantities and then will repeat based on strong sales figures in the first few weeks, so in this way they have less risk on their initial orders. I have noticed in the last few years that while in the past long lead brands added on a certain percentage for repeat orders on top of their customer orders, they are no longer doing this as customers aren’t repeating as much in season either, because sales don’t justify repeats or they are supplementing their stock with short order brands. There will always be a place for the longer lead brands, but the key benefit of the quick response labels such as Closet and our sister brand Almari are that buyers can be more flexible with their ordering, leaving budget for in-season buying. There are other benefits to manufacturing at home aside from the short lead times. I’m forever being told by my friends and colleagues that many high-street brands and independent labels have inconsistent sizing and sometimes don’t fit at all. We pride ourselves on an excellent fit, as our chief designer and pattern cutter is also our fit model, and we go through several rounds of fitting in the space of a few days. We have established relationships with all our factories, working with some for 15 years. It is these partnerships that allow us to produce great quality garments with a consistent fit. The quality of manufacturing in the UK is second to none and something to be proud of. —
Melissa Wheeler is co-owner of Ambiance of Colchester.
Rachel Perrett is brand manager at short-order brands Closet and Almari.
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INTERVIEW —
Q&A
Tina Lake — THE FOUNDER OF LONDON-BOUTIQUES.COM TELLS ISABELLA GRIFFITHS HOW, IN JUST OVER A YEAR, THE BUSINESS HAS DEVELOPED FROM A KITCHEN TABLE OPERATION TO A MAJOR PLATFORM FOR LONDON INDIES. —
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Isabella Griffiths: What is London Boutiques and how did it come about? Tina Lake: I was head of buying for Monsoon & Accessorize, and prior to that had my own store, Bare Boutique. This goes back around 15 years, so I’ve always been in the business. Like everyone else, over the last few years I witnessed that footfall in stores was going down, but e-commerce sales were going up, and I knew the future was online. The real light-bulb moment came when a friend from New York came to visit me in London and inevitably asked me, “Where is good to go out in London, who is the London IT girl and where are the cool boutiques to go shopping?” After we had traipsed around for hours criss-crossing London, I thought there must be an easier way to show off my favourite boutiques and the best stores London has to offer. Twelve hours later, the London-Boutiques.com URL was bought for £32. I started doing lots of research and talking to the boutique owners and it all went from there. This was in October 2011. In May 2012 we officially went live with 10 boutiques and around 800 products, and it just snowballed. IG: What is the concept of London Boutiques? TL: Essentially, it’s a platform for the best independent boutiques London has to offer, a bit like a boutique guild. We edit and curate the best styles from each boutique to present the strongest pieces on one easily accessible site. But it’s not just about sales. It’s a showcase of London and London’s fashion, style, culture, music and lifestyle. IG: How many boutiques do you currently work with? TL: We are working with 40 boutiques, including the likes of Austique, Chic & Seek, Feather & Stitch, Galleria Conti, Iris, O’Keefe, Oxygen Boutique, Trilogy and many others, and 20 more are coming in for a/w 13. By the end of the year we will have reached around 80 boutiques from London and Greater London. We have also recently diversified
INTERVIEW —
“LIKE EVERYONE ELSE, OVER THE LAST FEW YEARS I WITNESSED THAT FOOTFALL IN STORES WAS GOING DOWN, BUT E-COMMERCE SALES WERE GOING UP, AND I KNEW THE FUTURE WAS ONLINE”
further and invited a number of British designers to join our site including Vivienne Westwood, Belstaff, Goat, Phoebe Coleman and Victoria Beckham. It seemed like an obvious expansion of the concept and one that fits well into the overall model. IG: How does London-Boutiques.com operate, and what are the benefits for independents? TL: We take 20 per cent commission on every sale; we do everything from the photography to the PR side, SEO and marketing, and handle the sale, though we do not hold the stock ourselves – the boutiques do. When we receive an order, we run it through our system and confirm the item is still available in the boutique. We capture the payment and collate the funds if there are several purchases from one boutique, and we process the payment to the boutiques minus our commission on a monthly basis. The boutiques themselves send out the stock in London Boutiques wrapping and packaging, using our dedicated carrier. If a customer decides to buy a whole look, for instance, as they can in our Guru feature, they only pay a delivery charge once. The benefits for boutiques are that London Boutiques provides an additional revenue stream, regardless of whether they have their own website or not. Some boutiques obviously have their own successful websites, and this is just an additional marketing and sales tool but, with some of our boutiques who don’t have e-commerce, we are a key part in their overall sales. IG: What is the difference between London-Boutiques.com and other indie platforms such as Farfetch.com? TL: The main difference is that we are strictly about London and London stores, whereas Farfetch.com is about global stores and culture. Also, we are not quite as high end as Farfetch.com; we are pitched at the mid to high end of the market. We sit nicely between Farfetch.com on the top end of the
scale and, say, where Miinto was [Miinto closed down its UK business in March], which was very much a mainstream operation. IG: You received a financial boost from private investment firm Venrex last year. What has this meant for the development of the business? TL: Venrex invested £800,000 into the business in December last year and its basically meant that I was able to take the business to the next level. For instance, I could employ people rather than relying on the help of family and friends, and we are now a great team of 17 and have just moved into our second office space, as we keep outgrowing our premises. And obviously it’s been a crucial investment also in terms of being able to market the business and so on. We also recently relaunched the website and completely overhauled it, and added a stronger editorial content to the site, too, to make it more of a destination and give a proper taste of London life. We now have a style section, we round-up London events, run competitions, interviews and work with key bloggers and personalities such as Poppy Delevingne, DisneyRollerGirl and My Fash Diary. It’s a really exciting stage in the development. When I first started out, I had no idea of the enormity of the potential this would have. IG: Would you ever expand the concept to outside London? TL: I don’t know. Never say never, but for the moment there is enough potential still in London. I think before taking it somewhere else, I would rather expand with the introduction of kidswear, more lifestyle stores, maybe gifting and so on. I would like London-Boutiques.com to be the ultimate lifestyle destination for London – and what’s beyond that, we’ll see.
INFORMATION – London Boutiques was established in May 2012 as a showcase and sales platform for the best indies London has to offer – The website was founded by Tina Lake, who previously owned Bare Boutique as well as having worked for the likes of River Island, Arcadia Group, Kookai and more recently as head of buying for Monsoon & Accessorize. – The company received investment from private investment firm Venrex in December 2012 – The site now works with 40 boutiques from London and Greater London, including Austique, Chic & Seek, Feather & Stitch, Galleria Conti, Iris, O’Keefe, Trilogy and Oxygen Boutique – It’s projecting to have expanded to around 80 boutiques by the end of the year
SHOW DAT ES lon don show room 11/07/13 – 20/09/13
pa r is s how room 28/09/13 – 01/10/13 43 r ue Sa int-Sauveu r Pa r is 75002 Forr innfformation contac t
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c ha rli-london.com
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Size range: 8-30 GODSKE CLASSIC GODSKE LEISUREWEAR KIRSTEN KROG DESIGN JORLI HABELLA ROBELL WHIMSY FRANDSEN OUTERWEAR TIA I’CONA Q NEEL QUÉ REFA JAGRO THAT’S ME BY JAGRO —
London Showroom also open Sunday 4 August - weekend of Pure Pure London 4 - 6 August 2013 Stand K98 and J96 CIFF Copenhagen 8 - 11 August 2013 Bella Centre stand B3 - 241 Moda Woman 11 - 13 August 2013 NEC Birmingham, Hall 18 stand no I 14 Dubin Showroom Fashion City from Wednesday14 August 2013. With a Special Event on Sunday 25 August to Tuesday 27 August 2013
LONDON SHOWROOM Godske Group UK. Showroom: 65 Margaret Street, London W1W 8SP. Tel: 0207 636 3063 Fax: 0207 636 3863 Email: pug@godske.com DUBLIN SHOWROOM Godske Group Ireland, Unit 5, Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24. Tel: 00353 1 4295042 Fax: 00353 1 4295043
28 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2013
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STYLE FILE The hottest brands not to miss this month —
▲ BLAZE OF GLORY Blazon is making its market debut this season with a range of exuberant and vibrant scarves. Geometric designs and graphic, abstract and modern prints feature heavily in the collection, which has been created by graphic designer Natasha Coverdale. The scarves are printed by a small artisan producer in Bangkok, with the soft spun rayon, half natural and half manmade, to hold the colour. —
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LOVE STORY This Is A Love Song (TIALS) hails from Bali and is making its debut in the UK this season, having successfully established itself among the top performers in US lifestyle retailer Urban Outfitters. Strongly inspired by music, the label is made by and for music lovers, with an outspoken aesthetic defined by attention-grabbing prints. Wholesale prices start at £20 for tees and £45 for outerwear. —
STYLE FLASH — Emu Australia has launched its first injection range for a/w 13. The collection covers everything from classic sheepskin boots to fashion-forward styles and its waterproof range. —
South Beach has expanded its wholesale offering with the introduction of luxury feel loungewear. Key styles include lounge separates, robes and stylish onesies, which sit alongside the brand’s successful swimwear collections. —
▲ I WANT TO BE ADORNED Australian accessories label From St Xavier is all about statement jewellery, with styles going XL for maximum effect. Capturing a distinctly bohemian essence, the label features semi-precious stones, intricate beading and a medley of metals to create eye-catching designs across rings, bracelets, necklaces, earrings and clutches. —
Botanical-inspired brand Neo Organic creates unique prints each season based on floral and plant motifs, creating bright, piquant and striking patterns. The s/s 14 collection is full of zesty and pastel hues and has a sports-luxe vibe. —
STYLE FLASH — LK Bennett has collaborated with Rosamunde Pike on an exclusive range of handbags, featuring three key styles available this autumn in-store and online. —
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Fine footprints Footwear designer Tracy Neuls has introduced a number of innovations in its s/s 14 collection, strengthening its comfort and design philosophy. Softer lining has been applied, using the softest calf leather, while a new heel height – not too high but wearable – is also key, providing a subtle twist on classic shapes. —
General Enquiries 01392 876390 | Customer Service 0800 294 3373 | Official sponsor of JosephRibkoff.com
31 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2013
STOCK UPDATE —
THE 10 BEST
FRUITY COLOURS 01
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Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale
STYLE TIP — Fruity colours are the perfect transitional shades between spring/summer and autumn/ winter, and look great worn as summer brights or to liven up a darker autumn look. —
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From berry shades through peach to bright orange, fruity colours are here to stay for a while yet, making for vibrant, high-impact pieces. WWB selects its favourites to get in-store now. —
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01 Poppy Luxe, price on request, 01273 911393 02 Soaked in Luxury, £18.33, 020 8871 2155 03 Ruby Rocks, £23, 020 7436 1817 04 Madam Rage, £9.60, 01977 551907 05 Olsen, £42.50, 020 7290 0893
06 Dolly Dagger, £58, 01273 776166 07 Yumi, RRP £45, 020 7636 9484 08 Neon Rose, £10.70, 0161 235 5289 09 Esamis, £45, 0035 1229619511 10 Kelly Love, £65, info@kellylove.com
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SPRING / SUMMER 2014 COLLECTIONS See the very best of occasionwear from UK and International manufacturers and designers including, mother of the bride, eveningwear, prom, bridesmaids and accessories. The UK’s largest bridal trade show featuring over 350 collections and daily catwalk shows.
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Visit us at MODA Hall 17, Stand F10 www.mon-cheri.co.uk
36 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2013
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FASHION RADAR The hottest brands to look out for right now —
MASKA
SANE OF MOLLY
Swedish brand Maska is on a mission to create the perfect knitwear, and its growing number of international stockists may be proof that the label is onto something.
Sane of Molly is expanding its reach in the market thanks to a fun and quirky collection inspired by its Shoreditch roots and rock ’n’ roll vibe.
Established: 2009
Established: 2010
Signature style: Natural fibres and design come together to create knitwear that transcends the seasons, using artisanal knitting techniques and refined detailing.
Signature style: Edgy and cool, the brand’s womenswear is inspired by the wearer’s boyfriend’s wardrobe, with creative detailing, sharp cuts and the odd vintage reference thrown in.
The brand was founded in Stockholm by Maria Svensson and Lisa Leierth, who launched Maska (translated “knitted stitch”) four years ago. A strong design integrity is at the core of the brand philosophy, which is not about the pursuit of short-lived trends, but trans-seasonal styles that will have longevity and stand the test of time. Both designers are passionate about yarn and only use the finest fibres to create their styles. Each garment is crafted from extra-fine Merino wool, Peruvian Pima cotton, kid mohair, Mongolian cashmere and silk. The brand is taking its social responsibility serious, too, and produces everything in the EU, as well as a Swedish-owned factory in Nepal that is currently applying for fair labour verification. After winning several domestic awards, the brand is now available in 25 countries and has made its first foray into the UK, too, which it’s hoping to build on over the next few seasons. —
Offering both womenswear and menswear, Sane of Molly’s collection is a love declaration for East London, with styles heavily influenced by the people, parties, art, music and culture of Shoreditch. The brand is owned by clothing manufacturer Two of Them and designed by Bangkok-born designer Sansanee Thoesomboon, who has undergone a varied career path in fashion design, business and marketing. While some of the styles are unisex, the main women’s collection is sweet, sexy and glamorous, while also showing vintage influences and elements of punk, making for an eclectic mix. —
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PROFILE —
THE BOOMERANG EFFECT Joining the influx of Scandinavian labels making waves with British consumers, sustainable lifestyle label Boomerang is looking to establish its presence in the UK market for s/s 14. Victoria Jackson spoke to CEO Roger Kylberg about why now, three decades in, is the right time to travel west to the shores of Britain. —
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wedish lifestyle brand Boomerang has been at the helm of sustainable fashion since its inauguration in 1976. Established by young entrepreneurs Kenneth Andram and Peter Wilton, the label has gone on to achieve brand recognition across its native Sweden, as well as Norwegian, Finnish and Danish markets, with its offer of womenswear, menswear, childrenswear and homeware. The UK it seems, however, is fairly late to the party, having only recently caught on to the Boomerang phenomenon, with spring/summer 2014 just the brand’s third full season. “The UK is a highly competitive and internationally brand-driven market,” says Roger Kylberg, CEO, Boomerang. “But it has to be up to the consumer to decide. The market is shifting, from the consumer being told what to wear, read, where to eat and what to drive, to individuals making new choices for themselves, based on taste, desire and price relativity.” With only a handful of accounts to date across the UK, Kylberg reveals the brand’s wholesale strategy for the new season, favouring quality accounts over quantity and therefore conservatively aiming to open 10 independent doors before the end of 2013 – though first indications suggest that this goal will be easily surpassed with the brand’s debut at Moda White this month. “It has to be the right retailers, in the right location,” he says. “Department-store business is important, but not at the cost of independent distribution.” In terms of its own store roll-out ambitions in the UK, Boomerang is planning to open its first UK store in September /
October, but location-wise is looking outside of London – generally the first set-up for an international brand trying its luck in this market. “We’re looking at several regional locations,” says Kylberg. “We’re more interested in the right pockets of consumers and brand adjacencies rather than the ‘must-have’ city locations. The label is well-suited to the more affluent coastal and market-town localities, giving us a much better chance to generate and support a localised following for the brand without incurring prohibitive overheads.” If a driving force was what Boomerang wanted with the appointment of Kylberg in 2010, he has definitely lived up to the challenge so far, strengthening the organisation, putting in place strategic plans for international growth and successfully launching the brand’s global webshop. And all in the two years since joining the close-knit team of 30, based in the label’s Stockholm headquarters. Taking into consideration the erratic weather conditions of late, it’s possibly the ideal time for Boomerang to try its luck with the shoppers of Britain – especially with its functional yet timeless outerwear, knitwear and shirt options. After a handful of unpredictable seasons in terms of outerwear sales, it seems harsh winters are back for now, and buying outerwear high on people’s outfit agendas. It also doesn’t hurt that Scandinavian fashion has never been more en vogue, with labels such as Filippa K, Acne and Cheap Monday enjoying success in the UK. “In recent years, there has been a development of new Swedish brands, which have driven the overall >>>
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PROFILE —
Roger Kylberg
“As a country, we have a successful export in industries such as music and design which, in turn, helps to position Sweden on the global ‘cultural and style’ map”
interest for our design and fashion,” says Kylberg. “We, as a country, have a successful export in industries such as music and design which, in turn, helps to position Sweden on the global ‘cultural and style’ map.” In terms of brand adjacencies, Boomerang is aimed much more at the mainstream market, with Kylberg keen to emphasise that quality will never be compromised. With wholesale prices averaging £14 for basic knits, tops and vests, £32 for skirts, £42 for denim, £27-£57 for dresses and £82-£132 for outerwear, the label sits confidently next to the likes of Gant, Sand, Paul Smith, Fenn Wright Manson and Part Two, catering for the active, socially responsible consumer who, in the words of Kylberg, “isn’t a slave to the short-term influences in fashion”. He adds, “We strive for a position where the brand delivers a truly Scandinavian lifestyle offer, positioned alongside many of today’s key lifestyle players, offering a contemporary twist on the ‘Scandinavian preppy’ movement. Feedback we’re hearing from our customers also suggests that Boomerang is taking up some of the slack left in the market by Marc O’Polo’s departure.” With over half of its range produced in Europe, including its knitwear in Italy, blazers in Portugal and outerwear in Turkey, quality is at the forefront of the Boomerang design ethos. At the core of each collection lie functional, hardwearing garments, continuing to draw inspiration from the brand’s Scandinavian surroundings, as it has done since it was established. One cornerstone of the brand’s philosophy is the Boomerang Effect – a recycling system where the label reuses as much of its range as possible and recycles the material. This even includes each garment that is returned to stores, which is then manipulated into a new creation as part of the brand’s Boomerang Vintage line.
An extension of the label’s resourcefulness is Boomerang Home, an interiors collection launched in 2009. “Our home range was, and still is, a more conceptual way of showing how it’s possible to have a sustainable angle in product line development,” says Kylberg. “Boomerang Home is made of recycled garments, and is in cooperation with upcoming furniture designers. We’re always looking at ways of developing the Boomerang Effect philosophy.” Development is used frequently in Kylberg’s vocabulary, as he goes on to reveal plans for the launch of Boomerang accessories and footwear in the near future. There is also an aim to expand into the Japanese market at some point, with estimated figures of global Boomerang stockists expected to increase from 306 to 495 in 2014. The focus for now, however, is the UK market with one of the strongest collections to date for spring/summer 2014. Outerwear shows a strong focus on functionality, with waxed and coated styles key, while an elegant city look is achieved with metallic features such as copper for denim and jackets and unusual detailing. Shirts become blouses and sweaters are enhanced with woven details for a more elaborate look. With the UK firmly in its sights, Kylberg continues to steer Boomerang in the right direction, bringing it back to its roots each and every season. “The landscape and nature of Stockholm is at the heart of each collection, and that’s something we’ll never change,” says Kylberg.
GINA BACCONI
WWW.GINABACCONI.COM
020 8438 2000
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PREVIEW —
SPRING/ SUMMER 2014 AT MODA Moda is the UK’s largest fashion trade show and a key meeting place for the industry. Taking place on 11-13 August at Birmingham’s NEC, the event once again brings together the womenswear, accessories, footwear, menswear and lingerie and swimwear sectors under one roof, giving buyers a focused and comprehensive platform to do this season’s business. Alongside the vast fashion offer, specialist catwalk shows bring the main trends of the season to life, while a free seminar programme with high-profile industry speakers on the topics that really matter to independents adds to the Moda experience and makes it an event not to miss. >>>
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MODA WOMAN Key womenswear players and new names come together at this season’s Moda Woman, giving a comprehensive overview of the trends in mainstream fashion for spring/summer 2014.
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01 AMARI STAND J31 At Amari, s/s 14 centres around bold patterns mixed with floral and micro ditsy prints. Silhouettes focus predominantly on relaxed tunic styles, which have been updated with gathers, pleats, smock detailing, bellow front pockets and gathered back details. 02 STEILMANN STAND I10 Bold prints and patterns characterise Steilmann’s offering for s/s 14, with patterned trousers and dresses the hero pieces in the collection, featuring dayglo brights as well as monochrome checks and stripes. Each group is designed to mix and match and provide maximum versatility. 03 APANAGE FEMME STAND I38 Apanage Femme plays with colours and prints this season, with summery melon among the standout shades. Figure-hugging jersey dresses with wrap-over effects and draping feature throughout, as well as business dresses and elegant peplum styles. 04 MARBLE STAND G11 Spring/summer knitwear is a key focus at Marble this season, with chic and ageless looks key. Tops and tees also feature with quirky design details, while dresses come in on-trend prints suitable for all occasions. Jeans and trousers complement the range. 05 ALICE & BARNABE STAND J32 It’s a new name, but Alice & Barnabe, formerly All Beautiful, continues its success recipe of easy-to-wear styles based on soft and stretchy fabrics, offering maximum versatility. The colour scheme for spring/summer 2014 is based around flattering neutrals, with quirky detailing key. 06 SEASALT STAND K20 Cornish label Seasalt is revisiting its trademark Breton stripes, however updates the look with fresh new twists such as painted, irregular stripes and new colour schemes. Anchor embroidery, boat patterns, cotton canvas smocks and heritage-inspired fabrics continue the brand’s maritime feel. 07 MARIE MERO STAND J38 Tropical destinations are the inspiration for Marie Mero’s crisp and soft colours in organic patterns. The brand’s summer looks have been pared down for an understated and yet sophisticated style, with dresses, skirts and trousers sporting a more minimalist look.
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08 BRAINTREE STAND M18 Braintree’s collection has a distinctly relaxed and casual look, with elements of new luxe boho as well as casual weekendwear key. The brand’s organic cotton jersey and hemp T-shirts and tunics continue to be the predicted bestsellers, whilst maxi dresses also feature. 09 FABER STAND H30 Light knits, sporty chic blazers and shorts in plain or bold prints feature heavily at Faber. The collection is divided into four fashion themes, based around key colours of blue, red, khaki and yellow. 10 LILY & ME STAND J31 At Lily & Me, look out for engineered geometric prints in bold colours, which form the central theme of the collection. These sit alongside block colour florals, circle repeats and motif prints to create an eclectic mix of bold and feminine. Jersey dresses accentuate the drape and fold to create a streamlined silhouette. —
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01 01 BIANCA STAND I31 Bianca is embracing all the key colour stories for s/s 14, from elegant monochromes through relaxed neutrals, vibrant corals and turquoise to prints and florals. The styles can be coordinated and mixed and matched to achieve an individual look. 02 KIRSTEN KROG STAND I14 Soft silk printed dresses with co-ordinating silk jackets in plains and prints are among the predicted bestsellers at Kirsten Krog. These sit alongside lace dresses worn with matching shawls, while long plain and printed jersey dresses also feature. 03 TONI STAND J30 Light summer styles in Art Deco pastels create a casual and sporty direction as well as a relaxed overall look at Toni. Denim is back as a trend theme and comes in a variety of washes and a choice of silhouettes, while denim shirts and jackets also feature. Skinny shapes are still the most popular styles, and are teamed with voluminous tops to balance out the effect. 04 SARAH LAWRENCE STAND J20 Making its market debut at Moda is Greek brand Sarah Lawrence, offering a relaxed look suitable for both work and daywear, as well as weekends. The collection is coordinated, but styles can also be worn and bought as separates. 05 ATELIER GARDEUR STAND I30 Atelier Gardeur is presenting a collection based around a denim trend theme in all variations, innovative prints and an extended range of shape products. The silhouette remains narrow, whether as a knee-length 5-pocket, cigarette chinos, biker or cargo pants. 06 NOMADS STAND J15 Nomads’ collection has a 70s bohemia vibe with a touch of 50s vintage and everything in between. The range takes its inspirations from holidays, days out and its own Cornish roots. From pretty florals, tile prints to on-trend tie dye, all key trends are referenced, providing versatile looks for everyday as well as special occasions. 07 ANA NONZA STAND J20 Easy-to-wear separates and dresses come from Moda regular Ana Nonza. The collection is based on a selection of light and fluid fabrics from Indonesia, including chiffon viscose, etamine viscose and crinkle viscose, forming the basis for relaxed and loose fitting pieces. 08 POMODORO STAND I15 At Pomodoro you will find a versatile collection that offers everything from relaxed weekend and lifestyle clothing through smart daywear to sophisticated occasion styles. The brand remains true to its trademark of colours and prints, with tropical graphics and florals key.
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09 ADINI STAND H11 This season innovation comes from new developments in textural jersey and surface interest on casual blazers, new legging looks and innovative tunic mixes. Highlight pieces include a denim biker jacket and 30s-inspired tea dresses. 10 DORIS STREICH STAND H10 Easy dressing comes from Doris Streich, which has relaxed dresses, legging and tunic combinations and on-trend maxis at its core. Prints feature heavily, while the colour scheme revolves around blues, pinks, tropical greens and reds. —
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SP R I NG 2 0 1 4
Showing at: Pure, Olympia London, Stand L101 - Moda UK, NEC, Stand I15 - SIMM, Madrid, Hall 12, Stand 12E08 Pomodoro Clothing Company Ltd Tel: +44 20 8961 4000 Email: info@pomodoroclothing.com www.pomodoroclothing.com
Autumn/Winter 13.3
PURE 4th - 6th August 2013 Stand M 50 INDX 7th - 9th August 2013 MODA WOMAN 11th - 13th August 2013 Stand I 49 LONDON SHOWROOM 19th August - 30th August 2013 Email: jeremy@cates.co.uk Web: www.twodanes.dk/retail
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MODA WHITE Moda White is the show’s dedicated area for brands with an individual signature, and once again returns with a well-edited selection of international and home-grown labels. WWB takes a look at the key exhibitors. 01 ELISA CAVALETTI STAND H41 Exclusive detailing, hand-sewn buttons and a combination of luxurious fabrics are the signature of Italian brand and Moda regular Elisa Cavaletti. The collection is once again packed with modern and adaptable pieces, perfect for layering and creating an individual look. 02 EFFUSIVE STAND G51 New to the show is Effusive, which is showing its vibrant s/s 14 collection featuring giant flowers and plants from Amazonia. Dresses, tops and T-shirts dominate in the collection, which is mainly based on jerseys, satins, voile and crepe. Colours include pink, coral, red, fuchsia, blue and turquoise.
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03 PAOLA STAND H50 Polish label Paola is making its Moda White debut with a collection of sophisticated and wearable eventwear. The range features cocktail dresses, gowns, casual suits, jackets, coats and trousers with a strong emphasis on quality – produced in the company’s own factory – and unique design. 04 EVA TRALALA STAND J40 Offering a versatile collection that suits all age groups and sizes, Parisian label Eva Tralala’s s/s 14 collection is based around 11 different colour choices in the brand’s signature 100 per cent linen collection. Trademark looser fits feature along with more tailored pieces. 05 ROBERTO NALDI STAND H48 Italian brand Roberto Naldi is returning to the show once again, presenting another vibrant collection full of prints and abstract graphics in a bold colour scheme. It’s a highly wearable collection while also placing emphasis on unique design features and an individual signature. 06 PAUSE CAFÉ STAND J41 This season Pause Café plays with fabrics by superimposing fluid and transparent mesh knits to create opaqueness. Dresses remain key to the collection and are available with or without sleeves, while jackets come as short and long versions and are both chic and sporty. 07 RONEN CHEN STAND H51 Ronen Chen is returning to Moda White after an absence of a couple of seasons. The Israeli designer creates styles for the 30-plus woman who appreciates a comfortable and flattering fit with a twist. The styles can be worn in an individual way to create a layered and interesting silhouette.
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08 SAHARA STAND H40 Blending natural fabrics and a harmonious colour scheme of neutrals, Sahara has a loyal following for its loose silhouettes and effortless style. The s/s 14 collection is another offering of versatile garments that flatter and suit a wide range of customers and lifestyles. 09 T STUDIO THERAPY STAND K40 There are six themes in the collection this season, ranging from a Bamboo theme, characterised by dresses and tunics that are linear and straight, to Dandy, which plays with embossed and textured fabrics in a brushed print of coral and blue. 10 JAMES LAKELAND STAND I50 James Lakeland’s collection is all about crossing barriers. The knitwear and casual offer has been expanded, while the dress range has also evolved with the introduction of sleeved polka-dot dresses in stretch viscose in navy and beige. —
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MODA ACCESSORIES Moda Accessories covers everything from jewellery through handbags to hats and small leather goods. Moda Adorned, the dedicated area for niche and quirky accessories, also makes a welcome return. WWB takes its pick of the brands not to miss. 01 DANTE STAND N6 This season, Dante is adding more multifunctional necklaces to its offer, featuring reversible pendants or styles with adjustable lengths. New for the season is also an extended range of long necklaces, silver brooches and more magnetic catches across the range. 02 ACCESSORIES BY PARK LANE STAND N27 Jewellery label Accessories by Park Lane returns to Moda Accessories this season with over 200 new styles in a variety of finishes. Brushed metal is a key look for the brand alongside its signature finishes in gold and silver. 03 CAPIZ STAND N13 Fashionable elegance is the philosophy behind this season’s collection by Capiz, as the accessories label reworks traditional colour tones into wearable designs. Grey, golden brown, purple and red set the tone for autumn, while simple quality designs prevail for the new season and beyond. 04 JEWELCITY STAND O48 Autumn is all about jewel hues for Jewelcity as the brand unveils a collection of statement neckwear, design-led fascinators, jewellery and handbags in fashion-forward designs. Sapphire blue, ruby red and amethyst pink are key, complemented by more traditional hues of neutral for autumn. 05 SUZANNE BETTLEY STAND N51 Contemporary sun and beach hats, silk scarves and a capsule range of traditional millinery styles are the product sectors in focus for Suzanne Bettley this season. The brand creates a summer vibe through its use of natural materials, which this season include raffia, paper braids, crocheted raffia and silk. 06 ELIZA GRACIOUS STAND 7D Making a return to Moda Accessories following its successful debut earlier this year, Eliza Gracious takes a sophisticated new direction with the launch of its new collection for 2014. Leather and waxed cords, freshwater pearls and crystals are prevalent throughout the collection. 07 TURTLE DOVES STAND 5D Following its launch at Moda Accessories in February, Turtle Doves returns to the exhibition with its latest range of accessories crafted from recycled garments in wool and cashmere. Embellished with lace trims and intricate detailing, each piece is unique, from the brand’s signature fingerless gloves to its newly introduced snoods and scarves.
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08 ALCHEMY STAND P63 Arriving at Moda Accessories with a gothic-inspired range liberally laced with Georgian influences, jewellery label Alchemy unveils an extensive line of dramatic accessories for the new season. Designed and handcrafted in the UK, each piece features sparkling elements of Swarovski crystal. 09 GABY’S STAND N11 Moda regular Gaby’s returns to the exhibition with a diverse collection for the new season, hinting at Great Gatsby glamour with multi-layered strings of pearls inspired by the 20s. 10 BIZINTI STAND 3D New to the industry as well as Moda Accessories, Bizinti launches into the UK this season with a diverse range of jewellery, handbags and beach bags in trans-seasonal designs. Discovered in South America and brought to the UK by distributor Val Kersey, the brand offers pieces handmade by local artisans from leather and glass components. —
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MODA LINGERIE & SWIMWEAR Moda Lingerie & Swimwear is the national show for intimate apparel and beachwear and not only attracts the cream of specialist retailers, but also womenswear stores looking to diversify their offer. WWB sums up the key brands.
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01 PIHA STAND B15 Piha’s collection is characterised by psychedelic Studio 54 inspired prints, bold zigzags, nautical stripes and acid jungle prints. Stretch crocheted bikinis with razor-back mini dresses in neon yellow and pink are among the standout pieces. 02 GOSSARD STAND B12 Gossard’s s/s 14 line is inspired by the brand’s 100-year heritage, featuring classic shapes and styles, but with modern fabrics and prints. Vintage and retro elements are visible, including high-waisted briefs and slips. Following its successful debut last year, Gossard’s swimwear range is also back. 03 HUIT STAND C30 At Huit, bold brights are teamed with delicate lace and floral embroidery, with the popular Tandem line making a return with vibrant green among the standout colours, while the Once Upon a Time collection is dreamy with romantic influences. 04 FREYA STAND C30 Freya presents a collection full of tropical landscapes and psychedelic graphics. Pop colours and neon prints are at the centre of the range, true to this season’s motto, Carnival of Colours. Look out for the UW plunge bra, available with a choice of brief, thong or short coordinates. 05 CURVY KATE STAND C9 Curvy Kate is launching a long awaited multi-way bra this season, featuring a smooth, subtle polka dot, a soft satin edge and feminine button and bow detailing. Babydoll and lingerie sets also form part of the collection, while colour schemes are based around rose, sherbet, blue and lime.
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06 MIRACLESUIT STAND B14 The label that promises to make the wearer look 10lbs slimmer in an instant is returning with another successful swimwear collection with arabesque motifs as well as florals, paisleys and skin tones, all engineered to flatter the silhouette. 07 SAVE THE QUEEN SUN STAND B52 Save The Queen Sun’s swimwear line is inspired by icons in the field of music and art. This is translated into a range full of colour and prints, featuring bikinis, one-pieces and accompanying beach dresses. 08 PIA ROSSINI STAND B57 Pia Rossini has launched a resort line for s/s 14, which it is introducing at Moda. Look out for stylish and versatile beach cover-ups with plenty of vibrant prints. The colour scheme is based around nautical blues, red and white, monochrome, pink, orange and coral. 09 SIMONE PÉRÈLE STAND B40 Simone Pérèle is staying true to its classic and elegant style, and its new s/s 14 range has a romantic undertone, mixing delicate ethereal materials with embroidery and intricate lace. Among the key pieces is the brand’s first Memory Foam bra, designed to mould perfectly to the bust. 10 MOONTIDE STAND B15 Moontide’s extensive collection offers a diverse range of styles, including bandeau, balconette, dual-cup, halter and booster trikini tops and tie-side, ruched or mesh-side hipsters. —
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Spring Summer 2014
PURE LONDON · 04. – 06.08.2013 ANGELA ROBERTS PHONE 07860 376 571 · ROBERTS@PASSIGATTI.COM MYRA REID · NORTH IRELAND · IRELAND PHONE 08722 917 98 · REID@PASSIGATTI.COM
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MODA FOOTWEAR The UK’s largest footwear exhibition offers a wide selection of women’s brands, from young fashion and casual styles to elegant evening shoes. WWB takes its pick of some of the highlights.
01 JOULES STAND X4 Joules makes its Moda Footwear debut this season, bringing with it a range of men’s, women’s and children’s styles designed around its instantly recognisable identity as a lifestyle brand inspired by outdoor living. Wellingtons are key for the summer season, alongside casual pumps and brightly coloured loafers. 02 LISA KAY STAND T10 Seasonal highlights for Lisa Kay include multicoloured sandals and elegant slingbacks on Perspex heels, available in super-soft suede and shimmering metallic leathers. The colour palette, meanwhile, focuses on royal blue and emerald inspired by the ocean, and ice-cream pastels selected to evoke the spirit of summer. 03 CAMEL ACTIVE STAND V9 The vibrant culture of Brazil lends its influence to Camel Active’s s/s 14 offer as the brand diversifies its identity through the launch of its second women’s line. The flora and fauna of the South American country is interpreted through authentic styling and an outdoor-inspired colour palette comprising shades of orange, sapphire blue and emerald green, interspersed with light pastels and neutral shades. 04 ROCKET DOG STAND W10 Rocket Dog stays true to its Californian roots for s/s 14, presenting a beach-friendly collection of women’s footwear inspired by the West Coast, where it all began. Colours are vibrant and patterns are strong across a diverse range of flats, casuals, wedges, sandals, flip-flops, boots and sports silhouettes.
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05 O’NEILL STAND T4 New to Moda Footwear, surf label O’Neill unveils a directional range of footwear for both women and men this season. South American influences prevail across a range of espadrilles, leather sandals and slingback wedges for women, while skate pumps have been added to the mix in both hi-top and low-rise silhouettes. 06 HÖGL STAND T15 Returning to Moda Footwear after an absence of several seasons, Austrian footwear label Högl arrives at the exhibition with a range of pointy ballerinas, sandals, pumps and trainers in metallic hues and powder-fresh colours for s/s 14.
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07 IPANEMA STAND T19 The popular flip-flop brand is returning with an array of new styles that keep the brand and its product range on-trend and interesting. The Glam Collection has been extended with the addition of new styles featuring decorative stones and beads, while new flip-flop shapes are also present. 08 LIZIANNE STAND T13 Launching for s/s 14, Lizianne is the sister label to footwear label Bourne, bringing together luxurious aesthetics at a more accessible price point. The debut collection will be revealed at this season’s Moda Footwear, targeting the wedding, race-day and cocktail sectors. 09 PALLADIUM STAND SE03 Palladium extends its women’s footwear offer this season with the introduction of designs inspired by the brand’s own archives. Stonewashed and enzyme-washed hues feature throughout, while the brand also reinterprets its Baggy Low silhouette with a new, mid-height take on the popular design. 10 CHATHAM STAND S9 Marine lifestyle label Chatham launches its new G2 Barefoot sole unit at this season’s Moda, revealing a new anatomically shaped design that moulds and curves to the foot for the feeling of not wearing shoes at all. Style-wise, the women’s collection focuses on vibrant deck shoes with a concealed wedge and on-trend nautical influences. —
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WHAT’S ON AT MODA With live catwalks, industry debates, seminars and social events, this season’s Moda is as much about business as it is about brands. — Download the Moda App today and make sure you don’t miss a thing at Moda. Visit moda-uk.co.uk or search for ‘Moda events’ in your App store.
BIG LIVE INDUSTRY DEBATES Don’t miss the launch of the fashion industry’s most lively and insightful debates to be held this season. Join in discussions about the issues affecting your business or simply pull up a seat and listen in.
• BIG LIVE WOMENSWEAR DEBATE Monday 12 August, 10.45am, Hall 17 Catwalk Theatre WWB’s very own Isabella Griffiths will lead a panel of industry experts to discuss how new partnerships are reshaping the relationship between buyers and brands.
• BIG LIVE LINGERIE DEBATE Monday 12 August, 12.30pm, Hall 17 Lingerie & Retail Theatre Panellists including Sue Herrick, product and brand director for Figleaves, Honor Westnedge, senior retail analyst for Verdict, Esther Fieldgrass, owner of lingerie boutique Petits Bisous, and Pamela Scott, editor of Underlines magazine, will discuss the current landscape and forecast the future of the sector. There will also be a Big Live Menswear Debate in Hall 20 at the Catwalk Theatre from 12.00pm.
FREE BUSINESS ADVICE YOU CAN’T AFFORD TO MISS Moda has assembled a stellar line-up of business leaders and industry experts to bring you their most comprehensive seminar programme to date. Here is just a taster of what’s on offer over the three days, alongside a host of brand presentations, debates and catwalks. Visit moda-uk.co.uk for the full seminar line-up.
Beeches and Hampton Manor parties Join your peers to socialise and network at one of Moda’s two Monday night events. Choose from either fine dining at Hampton Manor or a barbecue at the Beeches. Both are ticketed events. Call 01484 846069 or email caroline@modauk.co.uk to book. —
Getting your business online Monday 12 August, 12.45, Hall 17 Warren Knight, CEO, Gloople is seminar is a must-attend for anyone thinking of opening an online store or looking to improve online sales. Warren Knight will share his top tips for showcasing your product in the best light.
Zero moment of truth Sunday 11 August, 11.00, Lingerie & Swimwear Retail eatre, Hall 17 Martin O’Toole, commercial director, Coolpink Digital Martin O’Toole will discuss today’s marketing model, changes in consumer behaviour and the need for brands to rapidly adapt in order to stay ahead.
Consultants: How best to invest Monday 12 August, 15.00, Hall 17 Anne Horton, director, Tonik Retail Former MD of Hoopers, Anne Horton shares her wealth of knowledge from an impressive career in retail, giving her top tips for how investing in a consultant could be a wise move in today’s climate and how to turn that investment into profit.
LIVE CATWALK SHOWS Chill out in the FAB lounge Make sure to pass by the FAB Plaza in Moda Accessories and chat to the FAB team stationed close by on stand R51. Find out how membership of FAB, a division of BIRA, can benefit your business. —
Be at the pulse of what’s on trend for the new season with Moda’s dedicated catwalk shows, highlighting the key looks from across the halls. Returning to Hall 17 will be the dedicated fashion, evening & occasionwear and lingerie & swimwear catwalk shows, while Hall 20 will showcase the best looks across urban & contemporary, men’s lifestyle & tailoring and footwear & accessories. See the Moda website or the Moda App for a full schedule. —
The new direction for womenswear s/s 14 Sunday 11 August, 14.15, Hall 17 Sandrine Maggiani, trend specialist, Stylesight Get an exclusive insight into next season’s hottest trends, exploring the colour palettes, styles, shapes and materials that are set to be big in s/s 14.
Brave new worlds Sunday 11 August, 16.45, Hall 17 James Lakeland, designer, James Lakeland Designer and retailer James Lakeland will give a fashion insider’s view on how a new approach to retail can secure the position of the independent in today’s fast changing retail landscape.
Pure Stand K110 Moda, NEC Stand G14 BBEH Stand C22/41
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EVENING & OCCASIONWEAR —
NIGHT VISION THE HOTTEST LOOKS FOR SPRING/SUMMER 2014 EVENING AND OCCASIONWEAR. —
MASCARA... >>>
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KATHY HILTON...
GINA BACCONI...
THE FINER DETAILS From fine and subtle detailing through to all-over dramatic designs, embellishments incorporating beads, pearls, sequins and diamante feature heavily in eveningwear this season. Shift-style dresses featuring a subtler take on the look, such as delicate detailing to necklines, are available from brands including Kathy Hilton, Sonia Pena and Michaela Louisa, while John Charles adds a focus point to a lace shift dress with intricate sleeve beading. Gino Cerruti, meanwhile, adapts the look to a floor-length style with all-over beadwork for maximum impact. So not to detract from the embellishment, colour is second to detailing, with shades of cream, white, black and metallics providing neutral backdrops. — MICHAELA LOUISA...
SONIA PENA...
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JOHN CHARLES...
DYNASTY...
MASCARA...
RUBY RAY...
YASMIN...
GINO CERRUTI... >>>
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CRYSTAL BREEZE...
MICHAELA LOUISA...
YASMIN... RUBY RAY...
CANDY QUEENS Soft sorbet and sweet candy shades such as lemon, lime, raspberry and peppermint run rife through this season’s colour palettes, proving bright colours aren’t the only way to make an impact. Yasmin’s s/s 14 offering features pale lime and raspberry shades through to stronger neons; Crystal JOHN CHARLES... Breeze utilises shades of candy pink; Michaela Louisa works summery shades of yellow; while the s/s 14 collection from John Charles favours a delicate hue of pale lilac. The ultra-feminine nature of the look also lends itself well to pretty and sparkly detailing, as seen in the Michaela Luisa and Yasmin collections. —
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VENI INFANTINO FOR RONALD JOYCE...
VIVIANA...
DYNASTY...
RUBY RAY...
CARMEN MELERO...
MIDNIGHT BLUES Why opt for black when there is an abundance of midnight blue on offer across collections this season? Ruby Ray brings the colour alive with the sparkle of sequins on a one-shoulder, floor-length design with the added impact of an ombre, dip-dye effect that ranges from the deepest shade of blue through GINA BACCONI... lighter, silvery tones. Viviana and Carmen Melero mix the colour with lace detailing, while Veni Infantino for Ronald Joyce favours the shade both as block colour and an accent. Dynasty, meanwhile, sets off a full skirt, floor-length design with an intricately beaded bodice. —
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KATHY HILTON...
MASCARA...
ALL LACED UP An eveningwear staple, lace remains a popular look this season, with its versatile nature working across a multitude of collections both traditional and more contemporary in design. Shefali SHEFALI COUTURE... Couture is an example of the latter, utilising lace in the form of a detached lace collar to complement an all-over lace dress. All-over lace works well on more formal occasionwear pieces, too, demonstrated by Cabotine, L’Atelier and Social Occasions. Another popular option is lace used for sleeves on dresses and for co-ordinating jackets as seen in the Gina Bacconi, Veromia and Sonia Pena collections. More dramatic interpretations can be found in the s/s 14 offerings of Kathy Hilton, who sets off a fishtail dress with black lace overlay, and Mascara, which adds texture to a champagne-coloured floor-length gown with all-over lace. —
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CABOTINE...
SONIA PENA...
L’ATELIER... GINA BACCONI...
SOCIAL OCCASIONS BY MON CHERI...
VEROMIA...
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SCOOP INTERNATIONAL Having almost doubled in size this season with the addition of a second venue, Phillips, Scoop International once again brought together a high-quality edit of up-and-coming designers, niche labels and sought-after international names. WWB sums up some of the highlights. —
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ADA ROSE Handbag brand Ada Rose continued with girly and romantic flair, with vintage influences running throughout. Floral prints were key and featured across a variety of styles, including holdalls, clutches, purses and beauty bags. —
ALEXIA Scarf brand Alexia presented a range of high-end scarves and kaftans with unique prints made by the eponymous designer herself. The style scored highly for its quirky graphics, beautiful colour scheme and XL size. —
BODYFROCK The secret of Bodyfrock’s continued success is the hidden shapewear element within its dresses, creating a perfect silhouette. Lace was once again a key ingredient, with a vibrant colour palette that referenced spring/summer’s love for corals and pinks. —
BOLONGARO TREVOR Unusual silhouettes were at the forefront of London label Bolongaro Trevor. Stand-out items included this dress and jacket combo, which showed off the brand’s Victoriana and vintage-inspired prints and clever cuts to maximum effect. —
BOURNE The footwear brand and now also clothing label proved once again that the addition of a ready-to-wear collection was a good idea, with slick and tailored styles that were timeless with a quirky and modern edge. This yellow pencil skirt was among WWB’s favourites. —
DES PETITS HAUTS French brand Des Petits Hauts opted mainly for pastels this season, but it was anything but a boring collection. Cute giraffe print blouses, cosy cashmere blend sweaters and jumpers, as well as this pretty cardy with metal thread, were among the highlights. —
F TROUPE Footwear brand F Troupe made its Scoop debut, and its unusual mesh and patent brogues and ballerinas as pictured here were not the only eye-catching styles on show. The playful usage of materials and textures was evident, as was a quirky colour palette. —
JACEY WITHERS Jewellery designer Jacey Withers was also among the first-time exhibitors at the show, and the collection impressed with plenty of statement pieces referencing animals, wildlife, nature and armoury motifs. —
KAT & BEE Statement jewellery came from Kat & Bee, whose multi-texture and multi-object designs stood out for their boldness, XL size and fusion of unusual materials and elements. Supersized rings were key, while chunky necklaces didn’t disappoint. —
KLEAR KLUTCH Bang on-trend was Klear Klutch which, as the name suggests, presented a range of quirky see-through clutches and bags in super-cool neon colours. A leather pouch inside the bags ensures that not every secret item is on show. —
LAUREL Stand-out pieces at the German brand included this neoprene coat with art print, providing both textural as well as visual novelty. Other items in the range, such as new trouser and blouse combinations with unusual silhouettes, also impressed. —
LIBELULA Dresses remained the focus at Libelula this season, with a strong selection of maxi and midi styles available. Prints featured heavily, while the colour scheme was bold and vibrant, with hues of hot pink and strong turquoise key. — >>>
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LINDY ROSS The Brit designer stayed true to her roots and once again offered an array of sophisticated knits and lace styles – preferably combined in one – in hues of beige, creams and the addition of vivacious coral. —
MAISON OLIVIA Italian brand Maison Olivia specialises in dresses, with styles that are immaculately tailored and have a distinctly romantic and retro notion. Pleat styles were popular choices, as were floral pencil dresses and A-line versions in on-trend shades of yellow, pink and turquoise. —
MAYRAFEDANE One couldn’t walk past Mayrafedane’s stand without noticing the bright selection of handbags and clutches, in a colour scheme that was bang on trend for s/s 14. Yellows were key, as were pinks and oranges, with styles ranging from cute laptop bags to clutches and shoppers and totes. —
PREY OF LONDON Prey of London’s collection had a distinct Ibiza vibe, with loose shapes and easy-to-wear styles key. Jumpsuits, loose tunics and kaftans as well as relaxed dresses were highlight pieces. —
ROSEMARY GOODENOUGH For s/s 14, artist and scarf designer Rosemary Goodenough introduced a new range of cashmere and cotton styles in addition to the designer’s staple silk versions. The motifs were all derived from the artist’s own oil paintings featuring enigmatic landscapes and floral compositions. —
SEVEN BOOT LANE As the name suggests, boots are at the core of Seven Boot Lane. The range, now in its second season, featured new takes on the Western boot, which will remain a trans-seasonal highlight, while sandals and pumps also featured for s/s. —
THE SEEKER Spanish footwear brand The Seeker specialises in shoes made with artisanal techniques and a visible respect for the traditional craft of shoemaking. Leather in a variety of seasonal hues was at the core, while the brand also brought back a new take on the all-time favourite espadrille. —
TISSA FONTANEDA The Spanish handbag designer is known for her bubble technique, which is to the fore of her collections. This season once again saw an extension of this with new, quirky colour options such as hot pinks and bright yellows, while new treatments of leathers also featured. —
VILAGALLO At Vilagallo you could find some immaculately crafted styles, and not only its dresses, but especially its outerwear designs stood out. Pieces were minimalist but always had some element of interest, be it the texture, colour, detail or print. —
VILLAGE ENGLAND UK handbag brand Village England’s latest line featured designs that are meant to be loved but also used every day. The range is crafted from finest leathers and features signature brass hardware and style names that pay homage to the villages of England. —
VIRGINIE CASTAWAY Highlights at Virginie Castaway included easy-to-wear and relaxed styles but with attention to finest materials and understated elegance. This kimono-inspired jacket captured the carefree attitude of the line while being distinctly stylish and flattering. —
YAS Yas is Danish Bestseller Group’s new premium offering, with the higher price tag justified by immaculate attention to detail and a focus on high-quality materials. The collection was full of leather styles in bright hues, which were among the hero pieces. —
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BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN Last month’s show may have been noticeably quieter, but in terms of product, punchy trends and original merchandise were in abundance. WWB takes its pick of the highlights. —
REVIEW —
AIGLE
ALPHA INDUSTRIES
SILVIAN HEACH
BIRKENSTOCK
BARBOUR
GLOVERALL
SILVIAN HEACH
AG
CREAM
KAFFEE
CREAM
■ BRIGHTS AND NEONS They’re everywhere this summer, but hot pinks, vivid oranges and neon brights will be even more prevalent for s/s 14. This season they were featured across everything from jumpers through trousers to dresses, with footwear brands also getting in on the trend and giving their styles the neon treatment. ■ DENIM While denim never goes out of fashion, for s/s 14 it has been given a new lease, with the blue stuff not only defining jeans, but also forming the base for creative compositions of denim and cottons, dresses, shirts, skirts and jackets. ■ GLITTER Sequins and metallic treatments were still around, providing great evening and party looks, but also filtering into daywear with a glam and yet edgy touch. ■ LEOPARD PRINT Classic leopard prints are also overhauled for s/s 14, with many brands opting for exaggerated graphics and colour schemes, creating a more dramatic and eye-catching effect. Understated styles, however, were also spotted, proving that whatever the preference, leopard print is set to make a big impact next summer. ■ PRINTED TROUSERS Again riding on the current success of printed trousers, more brands jumped onboard the trend. Colourful pyjama pants in light satins and silks dominated, though more classic cotton peg versions were also around. —
NOA NOA
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CROCS
CINQUE
NOA NOA
SOAKED IN LUXURY
YUMI
CREAM
SILVIAN HEACH
GLOVERALL
KAFFEE
FRANSA
YUMI
SOAKED IN LUXURY
SILVIAN HEACH
YUMI
SOAKED IN LUXURY
VERO MODA
FRANSA
CINQUE
FRANSA
SILVIAN HEACH
SELECTED FEMME
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FASHION FEVA Cheltenham indie Feva is embracing a new era in its 11-year history with the launch of its transactional website. Isabella Griffiths visited the store to find out what makes the owners, Jan and Andrew Clift, tick, and why constant innovation is at the forefront of the business philosophy. —
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his is our very first online order, it’s so exciting!” beams Jan Clift, owner of Feva Boutique in Cheltenham, as her sales manager carefully wraps an elaborate Save the Queen winter coat in branded packaging, ready to make its maiden journey to the store’s first online customer. It’s only been a few days since Feva’s first transactional website, www.fevadesigns.com, went live and, after months of hard work and considerable investment in the e-commerce arm, the first sale seems like a milestone indeed. Jan opened Feva in the heart of regency Cheltenham 11 years ago after running a successful restaurant business in Greece for 10 years before moving into the fashion industry. Fluent in Greek, she worked as a Greek agent for a South African textiles manufacturer before moving back to the UK, where she started a popular concession in a local boutique selling high-quality leather goods, handpicked from Germany. The success of the range saw Jan move into her own standalone premises at 20 Regent Street, where the store is still based today. Two store expansions later, and Feva is now a spacious, warm, elegant and comfortable fashion boutique that has become a key destination in the South West and beyond, with customers travelling from afar to shop Feva’s carefully edited offer, which includes brands such as Amazing Woman, Smash, Angels Never Die, Isabel de Pedro, Lily & Me, Forever Unique and Roberto Naldi. Spread over three storeys, the ground floor hosts a good mix of daywear, while the first floor houses dedicated showrooms for
evening, prom and occasionwear, with the second floor having been extended to a stylish consultation room, where personal shopping sessions take place by appointment. The standards at Feva were set high from the start with Jan and her husband and business partner Andrew – who also runs a successful international advertising agency and acts more as a “silent” partner – constantly driving the business forward. Marketing and PR have formed a big part of Feva’s identity, so much so that it hosts an in-store event every six weeks. “It started organically, but our customers keep asking when the next event will be, so we’ve ended up doing one every six weeks,” says Jan. “It’s a lot of work, but the return on investment is worth it, as each customer evening is usually a big success and the sales warrant the effort.” On the day that WWB visits the store, preparations are once again under way for the evening’s Getaway Glamour event, one of the many Cheese & Wine, Party Perfect, Fashion Fix and other themed dos that have taken place and usually also feature guest speakers such as stylist Michelle Blake or even fashion legend George Davies. Part of the popularity of the events is down to the fact that Jan always uses customers as models, playing to her broad customer spectrum of “mums and daughters”, and an age span from 18 to 72. “We don’t want unrealistic models; our customers love it that they have been selected as models and that they can identify with the person showing off the designs,” she says. “We want to make everyone feel comfortable in our shop, at any age, and whether she’s a size 10, 16 or 18.”
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Jan Clift
“In this business you can never stand still, you constantly have to innovate and develop. Those who don’t will sooner or later struggle, so we have to make sure that we stay ahead of the game”
Feva’s online arm is the latest major development, and is ringing in a new “clicks and bricks” era for the store. “We tried to have a transactional element a couple of years ago but, to be honest, looking back it was more of a Mickey Mouse operation and didn’t work,” says Andrew. “We dabbled in it a little, but we learned that if you’re going to do it, you need to do it right and have an adequate infrastructure, so we went back to the drawing board and took our time researching and developing it properly.” Going transactional was not only a reaction to the general growth in e-commerce, but also a conscious decision against another branch, which is something that had crossed both Jan and Andrew’s minds before. “We did think about it, but then we dismissed it,” says Jan. “There is little point in trying to emulate a concept that is so intrinsically linked to a certain identity and location somewhere else, and there is no guarantee that the Feva concept would work in a different setting,” she says. “And the actual logistics of it, too – where would we open up? Nearby, or somewhere, say, like Devon? And we’d have to buy separate stock etc. It just ended up being a calculation that wasn’t going to stack up.” Instead, the Clifts decided to invest their energy – and money into having another go on the transactional side, and this time round it’s a much slicker operation with a professional look and feel. While the build of the website has been outsourced, the rest has been undertaken in-house under the supervision of Louise Lowdell who has been taken on as marketing and online manager. Lowdell has been working with a photographer to create a coherent look and product presentation of each style, as well as the marketing and promotion of the site via SEO and social networking. “We started with 200-250 products online that we already have in-stock to create a good mixture of merchandise,” says Jan, who hopes that the
transactional side will become a key part of the shop’s overall turnover, with early estimations projecting it to become around 30 per cent of the business over the next few seasons. “We were clear on the fact that it had to have the Feva look and re-create the feel we have in-store, otherwise there’s no point doing it. Going forward, we will probably buy additional stock especially for the website to have a few unique selling points between our in-store and online offer – but, of course, always in keeping with our brand profile.” Both Jan and Andrew certainly never seem to stand still, and are always analysing the market, sales and customer habits that drive constant innovation. Another reaction to “the sign of the times” was the recent introduction of a “clearance room”, a permanent space on the first floor, kitted out as elegantly as the rest of the store, but hosting in-season and end-of-season stock, non-movers, one-offs and cheaper basics that are there to entice a quick sales and boost turnover. It shows just how in tune Feva’s owners are with the changing market. “Like everyone, we have noticed that footfall is going down and people are generally more careful about their spend, so about two seasons ago we decided to deliberately get a few cheaper brands in to have an entry-level price in our offer, and recently we decided to create the clearance room,” says Jan, who is also toying with the idea of a Feva label at some point in the future. “So far the reaction has been great, and has certainly boosted our sales figures.” “In this business you can never stand still; you constantly have to innovate and develop. Those who don’t will sooner or later struggle, so we have to make sure that we stay ahead of the game,” says Andrew. And that about sums up the Feva philosophy.
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RETAIL DIARY I have been running my own occasionwear business for 10 years, and in that time I have occupied three premises. When I moved into my current shop just over three years ago, I thought I’d be staying here for good. I am in a lovely listed building with large windows on the corner of a Victorian arcade. I look on to one of Harrogate’s main roads, so the shop is very visible to occupants of the many passing cars. A multi-storey car park is right behind me. — When I opened here I was very happy that there were five other independent fashion retailers at my level trading close by. I have never been afraid of competition. Talking to other retailers at FAB gatherings, it’s always clear the ones that do best are surrounded by other independent shops. Lots of indies together attract greater footfall of the right sort of customers, so everyone benefits. Somewhat to my surprise, the area has changed quite a bit in the past three years. Shops have closed and not been replaced. Others have relocated and relaunched themselves, so there are just two of us “original” six left. It would be welcomed if more fashion shops opened round me again. The outside view of Harrogate, I’m sure, is that it is a good town for indies, but different parts of the town consistently attract more consumers. As a town, we have become more dependent on our regular locals because the conference business here is not as buoyant as it was, so we have fewer long distance visitors. It is interesting to compare the town with smaller independent strongholds such as Yarm, just outside Middlesbrough, Bawtry in South Yorkshire or Marlow-on-Thames in Buckinghamshire. It is important that the local council and landlords understand the dynamics of a successful retail environment. Independents thrive off other independents and it’s easy to end up “off-pitch”, even if you are only a few minutes’ walk away from the main gathering of similar shops. Obviously no retailer looks forward to relocating, given the inevitable stress and often ridiculous expense. So, for now, I’m continuing to review the situation, but I’m glad I organised a lease with a break clause. Carole Hilton-Stone owns Dressed in Harrogate. She is a committee member of the Fashion Association of Britain www.fashionassociation ofbritain.co.uk.
FORUM —
RETAIL FORUM
The latest news from the industry —
SALISBURY STEPS UP TO INDEPENDENTS’ DAY
CARNABY STREET HOSTS FREE MUSIC FESTIVAL Last month, Carnaby Street was home to a free music festival as part of the area’s celebration of music heritage. Carnaby Sound featured live music, covering multiple musical genres that have been playing in the area over the last 10 decades, including jazz, blues, urban and rock. Bands such as A*M*E, Kids in Glass Houses, James McCartney, Night Engine, Luminites and Last of the Troubadours were among the performers boosting the shopping destination on 6th July, with Carnaby home to over 150 fashion brands and 50 independent restaurants and bars. —
Retailers in Salisbury hosted Salisbury Independents’ Week last month in line with national campaigns Independents’ Day and Independent Retailer Month. The Wiltshire city, which first hosted Independents’ Week last year, brought local businesses together in a bid to raise awareness of the region’s retail scene in a campaign spearheaded by Theresa Wood, owner of accessories retailer The Strawberry Fox. “We are the lifeblood of the economy and we create the cultural basis of our society of communities,” says Wood. “Last year, we started Salisbury Independents’ Week and it was a success on so many levels – it raised awareness locally and impacted positively on business and customers.” —
93 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2013
FORUM —
IF YOU STARTED OUT IN RETAIL AGAIN, WHAT WOULD YOU DO DIFFERENTLY?
DANIEL FOOTWEAR CELEBRATES 20TH ANNIVERSARY Footwear mini chain Daniel is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year and, for the occasion, has overhauled its website to offer its customers a more lavish online experience. A slicker look and new features now form part of the e-commerce side, while carrier bags have also been updated with a shiny metallic finish sporting the proud emblem “Celebrating 20 years of excellence.” More anniversary activities are planned over the coming months. —
AVENUE 32 ON PARK LANE Luxury e-tailer Avenue 32 has teamed up with Grosvenor House Apartments by Jumeirah Living to offer guests a range of exclusive fashion and lifestyle services. Free shipping to the Park Lane address, complimentary membership to the store’s Black Door VIP scheme and a Clothes Concierge service with styling and personal shopping appointments are all part of the package. Roberta Bentler, founder and MD at Avenue 32, says, “We are delighted to demonstrate our exemplary customer service. This partnership allows us to create a complete wardrobe management service for guests during their stay in London.” —
MY FAVOURITE SHOP... SUE PARKINSON by Leah Bernal, UK agent for Des Petits Hauts
SUE PARKINSON Opened: 1973 Address: 32A High Street, Broadway, Worcestershire and The Corn Hall, 26 Market Place, Cirencester, Gloucestershire Key brands: Sonia by Sonia Rykiel, Marithe Francois Girbaud, Philosophy de Alberta Ferretti, Marc Cain, J Brand, Citizens of Humanity, Des Petits Hauts, Velvet, Maison Scotch, Ash, Bloch, Candice Cooper “I have enormous respect for Sue Parkinson. She is a talented retailer and buyer who follows her convictions. She has great taste and readily embraces new trends and lines. Season after season she puts together a stylish, commercial, on-trend collection. Sue and her daughter Sal work hard to provide customers with a fantastic shopping experience offering clothes, accessories, shoes, bath and body products, homeware, furniture and gifts sourced from around the world.” —
ANDREA CLAIRE “I’d have embraced Owner, Andrea Claire, the digital age earlier Cheadle Hulme and tried to stop the shop becoming a ‘showroom’ for online buyers. We have learnt the hard way from consumers using hours of our expertise to then try and source the product online.” — LIZ TRENDLE Owner, The Gate, Guildford, and Catwalk, Godalming
“I would do more research about potential clients, brands, the area and so on. The more you know about your customers, the more likely you are to buy the stock they want to buy.” —
FIONA KENNEDY Owner, Red Ruby Rouge, Belfast
“I would have sought expert tech support for online marketing and e-commerce development much sooner. It’s incredible how much of a difference a meeting can make if you’re talking to the right people.” —
PAULA FITZPATRICK “I would shop around Owner, Love KR, more for my own Kensal Rise, London utilities and things like business insurance and Chip & Pin. In the beginning, I just went with my bank and ended up paying way over the odds. There are lots of hidden costs when you start out.” —
94 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2013
EXPERTS —
ADVICE Industry experts answer your retail questions —
HOW CAN SUCCESSFUL PR BENEFIT MY BUSINESS?
WHY DO I NEED TO JOIN UP MY LOSS PREVENTION STRATEGY?
Successful PR engages a brand’s target audience via the most appropriate means available. It works by raising awareness of the brand’s “story” via the correct channels. If done properly, the process will drive brand awareness and, in turn, website traffic and sales.
Omni-channel retailing is providing new opportunities for everyone, including fraudsters. And as more retailers adopt an omni-channel sales strategy, their loss prevention strategy must keep pace.
Editorial is said to be three times more powerful than straight advertising. This is due to the “experts” – the fashion editor, tech columnist, travel reporter and so on – telling their readers they should buy a particular item or use a particular service, as opposed to a brand paying to be placed in those pages. You’ve been selected above your peers and competitors for inclusion. You haven’t bought your way in – you’ve been specially invited. This is what makes PR so effective and powerful. You don’t need to spend a fortune. In fact, you can do it yourself. It’s all about speaking to your target press, communicating your brand to them and building relationships. The most important element of any PR strategy is working out who your target audience is and how to communicate to them. Then identify realistic PR objectives you can place measurable targets against. You can choose one of two ways to move forward with your PR – take it in-house, or appoint a PR agency. Both have their pros and cons, so it’s important you decide which will work best for you, your style of working and your brand. In-house allows more hands-on control, with your press officer often enjoying a close interaction with the various elements of your company. PR agencies can offer you many and various creative minds – with the hard-won contacts that accompany each of them – and is generally more cost-effective. The next step is to ensure you have the right “kit”. Do you have the right images? Have you prepared a concise press release? And what is “newsworthy”? The easiest way to determine this is to ask yourself, “Is it something new?” Finally, measure how successful your PR campaign has been – what is its ROI (return on investment)? PR is tricky to measure; the best way to quantify it is by evaluating a publication’s reach – how many people read it? It’s also useful to look at web analytics as a reference. You should always notice a spike in visits on the day of your coverage. Remember, building a brand doesn’t happen overnight. But, with the right PR support, you’ll always find it easier to achieve what you set out to. Make sure that whatever your business does, it comes with some form of PR. After all, it’s no longer a luxury only afforded to major corporations; it’s an accessible promotional tool that every business needs to consider if they want to stand out.
We interviewed 100 of the UK’s leading retailers in our annual in-depth survey of the sector’s loss prevention, and retailers who did have an integrated strategy across all channels were in the minority. Only around 5% of the retailers appeared to have an omni-channel fraud and loss prevention team, yet fraudsters have been operating omni-channel scams for a number of years. Our survey, the Volumatic Kount UK Retail Fraud Survey 2013, revealed that retailers expect online sales to increase from 12% to 27% in three years. The time is right for retailers to restructure and ensure that all loss prevention, including store and online, is managed together. Typically, retailers who have achieved a more holistic approach to shrink management have increased their profit protection. One of our survey sponsors, Volumatic, who deals with secure cash handling, pointed out that multichannel retailing has grown significantly and the problem of returns fraud or Goods Lost in Transit is one such loophole criminals are exploiting when transactions cross organisational boundaries. This was echoed by co-sponsor Don Bush, marketing VP of Kount. Eighty five per cent of UK retailers have concerns about their lack of capabilities to fight fraud online, leaving consumers at constant risk. Worryingly, the survey showed that 41% of retailers didn’t even have basic analytics systems – this is a concern when it comes to cornering fraud. A majority of stores are also using some form of card payment system that protects them from credit and debit card fraud. 95% of retailers last year named this as the in-store “must have” with 70% of retailers implementing a form of payment security. This shows that clearly there is recognition for the need to adopt secure card payment systems in store – but what about online? Also, online retailers are particularly prone to Card not Present (CNP) fraud as 51% of retailers in the survey named this as the leading cause of online loss. This further highlights the need to implement the right security products across your website to ensure that the fraudsters stay out. But, it’s not just about getting the right kit; it’s about the changing mindset that goes with the omni-channel business – it’s about thinking online, offline and joining up the two. And by getting it right first time round, you may well be stealing a march on some of your bigger competitors.
Adele Woodthorpe is the founder of PR and marketing agency Woodthorpe Comms. Visit www.woodthorpecomms.com or tweet @woodthorpecomms for more information.
Paul Bessant is the MD of Retail Knowledge, a consultancy set up to advise retailers on how they can improve their loss prevention strategy. Visit www.retail-knowledge.com.
Spring/Summer 14.1
PURE 4th - 6th August 2013 Stand M 50 INDX 7th - 9th August 2013 MODA WOMAN 11th - 13th August 2013 Stand I 49 LONDON SHOWROOM 19th August - 30th August 2013 Email: jeremy@cates.co.uk Web: www.twodanes.dk/retail
96 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2013
DIRECTORY —
FOR SALE MILLINERY
HEADWEAR
STEAMERS AND IRONS
WANTED
15O HATS AND FACINATORS.
Sale due to retirement Brands include Nigel Raymont, Hat Box, etc.
For more details contact: Daphne on 01559 363454.
GARMENT STANDS
Distributed by: Arctic Fox Unit 22, Watford Metro Centre, Tolpits Lane, Watford, Herts WD18 9UN Tel: 01923 210646 Email: info@bullseyeinternation.co.uk
MANNEQUINS
WANTED
HAT BOXES RAILS
Please contact: Box no WWB 230 The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL
SHOWCASES
Agent, with showroom base and many years of experience in the clothing industry, is looking for a leisurewear/countrywear agency to the retail sector for Yorkshire and the North East areas.
To advertise please call Mina or Jasprit on
01484 846069 or email mina@ras-publishing.com jasprit@ras-publishing.com
DISPLAYS
97 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2013
DIRECTORY —
NAMES AND NUMBERS
To subscribe to WWB simply call us on: +44 (0)1484 846069 email lydia.bennett@ite-exhibitions.com or visit wwb-online.co.uk. EU £75 (includes p&p)
Outside EU £146 (includes p&p)
Accessories by Park Lane 01423 866990 www.parklaneonline.com • Ada Rose 020 3176 7925 www.adarose.co.uk • Alchemy 0116 282 4824 www.alchemygroup.com • Alice and Barnabe 01626 879998 www.enjoyfashion.fr • Adini 020 8560 2323 www.adini.co.uk • Alexia 07956 585627 www.alexiafashion.co.uk • Amari 01566 779477 www.amaridesigns.co.uk • Ana Nonza 01626 879998 • Apanage 020 7636 7111 www.apanage.de • Atelier Gardeur 0049 52413076194 www.gardeur.de • Bianca 020 7580 0085 www.bianca.de • Bizinti 01926 624236 • Bodyfrock 020 7036 0101 www.bodyfrock.co.uk • Bolongaro Trevor 020 7502 5502 www.bolongarotrevor.com • Bourne 01482 334590 www.bournecollections.com • Braintree 020 7607 1173 www.braintreeclothing.com • Cabotine 0034 618321054 www.gndesigngroup.com • Capiz 01449 775566 www.capiz.co.uk • Carmen Melero 020 7636 7077 www.carmenmelero.com • Crystal Breeze 020 8541 1199 • Curvy Kate 020 8861 3111 www.curvykate.com • Dante 01260 226588 • Des Petits Hauts 0033 177455562 www.despetitshauts.com • Doris Streich 0049 743390090 www.dorisstreich.de • Dynasty 020 8736 0200 www.dynastyuk.co.uk • Effusive 0035 1253913424 www.effusive.pt • Elisa Cavaletti 07876 333397 www.elisacavaletti.com • Eliza Gracious 07767 785822 www.elizagracious.com • Eva Tralala 01625 533958 www.clamorfashion.com • Faber 020 7636 9140 www.faberknitwear.de • Freya 01536 764376 www.eveden.com • F Troupe 020 7494 2005 www.f-troupe.com • Gelco 020 7580 3202 www.gelco.de • Gina Bacconi 020 8438 2000 www.shubette.com • Gino Cerutti 0870 712 0014 www.ginocerutti.com • Högl 0043 771988110 www.hoegl.com • Huit 01536 764376 www.eveden.com • Ipanema 01992 701832 www.ipanemaflipflops.co.uk • Jacey Withers 020 8341 0316 www.jaceywithers.com • Jewelcity 01494 444200 www.jewelcity.co.uk • Joules 01854 435229 www.joules.com • John Charles 020 8888 8833 www.johncharles.co.uk • Kat & Bee 07958 123344 www.katandbee.com • Kali Orea 0039 051 752 912 www.kaliorea.com • Kathy Hilton 01954 232102 www.moncheri-bridals.co.uk • Kirsten Krog 020 8504 6554 www.godske.com • Klear Klutch 020 3603 9253 www.klearklutch.com • James Lakeland 020 7636 7130 www.jameslakeland.net • John Charles 020 8888 8833 www.johncharles.co.uk • L’Atelier 020 8965 1522 Latte 0141 204 0699 www.latteclothing.com • Laurel 0049 8999888406 www.laurel.de • Libelula 01256 861458 www.libelula-studio.com • Lily and Me 01566 779477 www.amaridesigns.co.uk • Lindy Ross 020 7351 4455 www.lindyross.co.uk • Lisa Kay 01923 800081 www.lisakayshoes.com • Lizianne 01482 334590 www.bourneshoes.com • Maison Olivia 0039 236758398 www.maisonolivia.it • Marble 029 2066 4661 www.marblefashions.co.uk • Marie Mero 0032 93741171 www.mariemero.eu • Mascara 020 8965 1522 • Mayrafedane 020 7536 9311 www.mayrafedane.com • Michaela Louisa 020 8888 7000 www.michaelalouisa.com • Miraclesuit 01423 885347 www.patricia-eve.co.uk • Moontide 01209 314883 www.moontide.co.uk • Nomads 01566 777338 www.nomadsclothing.co.uk • Olsen 020 7290 0890 www.olsenfashion.com • Palladium 07585 300402 www.palladiumboots.com • Paola 01892 614000 • Pause Café 0161 238 8570 www.essentialcollections.net • Pia Rossini 028 9146 7999 www.piarossini.com • Piha 01209 314883 www.moontide.co.uk • Prey of London 07931 337148 www.preyoflondon.com • Pomodoro 020 8961 4000 www.pomodoroclothing.com • Rocket Dog 020 8207 7200 Ronen Chen 020 7402 5292 www.ronenchenstoreuk.com • Rosemary Goodenough 07880 540563 www.rosemarygoodenough.co.uk • Ruby Ray www.rubyray.com • Save the Queen Sun 0039 0558958201 • Seven Boot Lane 01749 673222 www.sevenbootlane.com • Shefali Couture 0097 147094160 www.shefalicouture.com • Simone Perele 020 8332 3060 www.simone-perele.co.uk • Soaked in Luxury 020 8875 5851 www.soakedinluxury.com • Sonia Pena 0034 902240368 www.soniapena.com • Seasalt 01326 640377 www.seasaltcornwall.co.uk • Steilmann 020 7291 0522 www.steilmann.com • The Seeker Shoes 0034 607745178 www.theseeker.es • Tissa Fontaneda 0034 606900383 www.tissafontaneda.com • Toni 0141 204 0699 www.toni-fashion.de • T Studio Therapy 0161 238 8570 www.essentialcollections.net • Turtle Doves 07818 198099 www.turtle-doves.com • Veromia 020 8502 2257 www.veromia.co.uk • Vilagallo 0034 916331767 www.vilagallo.es • Village England 07528 484070 www.villageengland.com • Virginie Castaway 0033 140410412 www.virginiecastaway.com • Viviana 020 8736 0200 www.dynastyuk.co.uk • Yas 0045 25514049 www.bestseller.com
98 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2013
UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL —
JULIE DEANE The founder of The Cambridge Satchel Company shares the secret of her success and why supporting British manufacturing is at the core of the company’s ethics. —
Your brand has grown into a global phenomenon in only five years. Did you ever anticipate such rapid growth and success? The Cambridge Satchel Company is a brand with heart and authenticity – our customers respond to that. The fact that the brand started literally at the kitchen table and with no intention other than to make my children’s lives better resonates with people of all ages. Starting with just £600 makes the story inspirational and encourages people to think, “Why not me?” It can be done. The bags are made in the UK, the craftsmen and women are skilled and the bags are stunning. We use colours that are bold and make us happy – it seems that strikes a chord, too. What inspired you to create the now iconic satchels in the first place? It is by now a well-documented story, but I needed to make money to send my daughter to a private school as I found out she had been bullied and become quite introverted where she was. Why satchels? Because they deserve never to be forgotten, the style is timeless but they needed a bit of colour and to become part of an outfit, not just a school uniform. You put a lot of emphasis on British manufacturing – why is this important for you? I grew up in South Wales at a time when coal mines were being shut down. I saw so many people and even towns depressed by the lack of work. If we don’t support industries they disappear. Manufacturing is important, creating and designing is important, and if something is important, it needs support. Everyone who comes to our factory in Leicester has commented on how surprised they are at the level of work done by hand – it is not an automated process. These bags are made in the UK, from cutting the leather to sewing and applying the rivets, not just finishing touches. They’re honest, the company is ethical and I’m proud of what we do. What have been your milestones so far? Getting the children into the school and seeing my daughter happy. Another milestone was when my mum [Freya, her business partner] and I won Red magazine’s Red Hot Women award, as it meant we visited Downing Street together and had coffee with the elegant Samantha Cameron. Sharing successes with family is wonderful. My mum and I are off to Buckingham Palace next week – these are memories I will never forget and make all the work worthwhile.
INSIDER: Who is your style icon and why? My mother – she is the most well-groomed and glamorous woman I know. Every day she looks perfect – I’m hoping it’s a skill I acquire, as I don’t have it yet! — Which fashion business do you admire and why? Chanel – so classic and yet constantly evolving to remain at the fore. — What’s the best piece of industry advice you’ve ever been given? I’m not good at taking advice – I go on instinct and whether something feels right and makes me proud. — What’s the one fashion item you can’t live without? I can live without items – it’s family, the Cambridge Satchel team and my beloved dog, Rupert, that I couldn’t do without.