WWB magazine

FEBRUARY 2013 — ISSUE 224 WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk

£6.95

— GOING APE Why Monkee Genes is the thinking consumer’s choice of denim —

— MELTING POT OF STYLE A comprehensive guide to this month’s Moda —

— CHIC AND UNIQUE The stand-out looks in mainstream fashion —

— THE NEXT GENERATION Why apprenticeships are key to the industry’s future —

AUTUMN

WINTER

2013

VIEW THE COLLECTION AT PURE, STAND Q24 OR TO BOOK AN APPOINTMENT PLEASE CONTACT JOULES ON T: +44 (0) 1858 435261 E: TRADE@JOULES.COM

03 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

CONTENTS —

REGULARS

FEATURES

FASHION

9 EDITOR’S COMMENT — 10 NEWS — 18 BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear — 20 TALKING POINT — 112 RETAIL FORUM The latest news from the industry — 118 UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL With handbag designer Jack French — FRONT COVER JACQUELINE DE YONG —

22 Q&A With Martijn Veldhoven, CEO of Veldhoven Group — 26 FASHIONING THE FUTURE The UK’s first apprenticeship scheme for the fashion industry — 43 TOP BANANA Monkee Genes’ recipe for success — 98 SHOW ME THE MONEY How to implement an Open To Buy plan — 102 TOTAL GLAMOUR The key trends for evening and occasionwear — 110 BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN WWB reviews last month’s show —

32 STYLE FILE — 35 10 OF THE BEST Coloured jeans — 37 FRIENDS FOREVER — 38 FASHION RADAR — 54 SIMPLY DOES IT The hottest a/w 13 looks in mainstream womenswear — 73 AUTUMN/WINTER 2013 AT MODA A preview of the show — 96 FLIP Taking a look at what the show has to offer — 101 EVENING AND OCCASIONWEAR NEWS —

09 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013 Editor Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com — Contributors Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Kirkpatrick laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — Online editor Suzanna Bain suzanna@ras-publishing.com — Fashion writer Natalie Dawson natalie@ras-publishing.com — Editorial assistant Carey Whitwam carey.whitwam@ite-exhibitions.com — Sub editor Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — Design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — Senior advertising sales manager Mina Parmar mina@ras-publishing.com — Sales executive Jasprit Sihra jasprit@ras-publishing.com — Subscriptions Linzi Pearson linzi.pearson@ite-exhibitions.com — Production director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — Commercial director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com — Reprographics/printing ImageData Group 01482 652323

— WWB is published 11 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 — Copyright © 2013 WWB Magazine Limited.

All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

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RAS Publishing is an ITE Group PLC company A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication WWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include MWB, Footwear & Fashion Extras and CWB.

COMMENT —

WE’RE ONLY A FEW WEEKS INTO THE NEW YEAR AND IT’S ALREADY CLAIMED ITS FIRST HIGH-PROFILE CASUALTIES, WITH HMV, JESSOPS, BLOCKBUSTER, GIO GOI AND HOI POLLOI ALL HAVING GONE INTO ADMINISTRATION. — In some of these cases, most notably HMV and Jessops, the collapse has been a long time coming, with both having eventually been beaten by (price-) aggressive competition from supermarkets, who have made the CD, DVD and digital camera market their own.

The rise of e-commerce with its countless stores, 24-hour accessibility and price comparison facility is undoubtedly also to “blame” – for want of a better expression – for having further diluted the market that these two companies once dominated. I suspect that HMV, Jessops and co are the first of many more prominent names who will sooner or later disappear from our high streets. While I don’t subscribe to the much publicised “death of the high street” philosophy, I am, however, in the camp of those who believe the high street will change its guise and that the days when big chains are having branches in every town up and down the country are over.

In essence, this isn’t just an effect of the economy or recession, but a natural consequence of our multichannel society, where shoppers increasingly flitter between physical bricks and mortar stores as well as e- and m-commerce.

Those chain stores that once rapidly expanded their reach into almost every high street across the country will now have to rethink their strategies and cut their portfolios, as carrying such a large amount of outlets will be

unsustainable. High street stores will inevitably become more about retail theatre, interaction and a “showroom” function rather than just points of purchase, with actual transactions being made online.

Where does this leave our indies? In a good place, I believe. Indies are, per se, much smaller and leaner operations, and therefore are a lot more flexible than their big chain counterparts. Sentiments to revive our high street with more individuality and fresh ideas are gaining momentum, and there is a real opportunity to use the developments in their favour. However, if there are any lessons to be learned from the casualties so far, it’s that you cannot stay passive and watch the competition pass you by, regardless of the size of your operation. And while I’m not suggesting that having a multichannel offer is the be all and end all of future retail – there are many question marks over the profitability of many an e-commerce operation – I do believe that retailers, big and small, would be wise to have some form of multichannel presence to allow the consumer to shop how they want, but with you and not your competition.

Isabella Griffiths, editor

10 WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk — FEBRUARY 2013

NEWS —

SUPPLIER RELATIONSHIP AND SUPPORT TOP ON INDIE AGENDA Exclusivity, low minimum orders and marketing support are some of the criteria brands have got to meet when it comes to being in retailers’ good (order) books this buying season.

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Retailers are placing more importance than ever on buyer-supplier relationships, with those brands who offer support in terms of marketing, payments, sale or return or exclusivity topping the vetting criteria. As the a/w 13 buying season peaks, a straw poll by WWB reveals that many indies are upping their budgets this season, however their criteria for selecting brands are much stricter than before.

Janine O’Keefe, owner of premium indie O’Keefe Fashion in Esher, Surrey, is increasing her spend for a/w. However, when it comes to new brands to her stable, it’s minimum orders and SOR that determine a possible partnership.

“I’m spending slightly more this season, as I am constantly looking for new brands and products to keep my offer fresh,” she says. “We always take on new brands each season, as we find so many labels we source get taken up by the department stores and then lose their appeal, so we need to source original lines constantly. We are looking for lower minimums and also for SOR from some brands. Marketing and promotional support is also always welcome.”

This is mirrored by Chloe McCaig, owner of Bridge of Allan indie Ruban Rouge: “I would say exclusivity and minimums are most important to me,” she says. “I have dropped

brands in the past based predominantly on their performance, but also on the relationship with that supplier. If it does not work once, there is no point spending more money towards it. Equally, when I found some good labels that work very well, these get bigger orders, because I know they will work. For a/w 13, I’m upping my budget slightly in order to add more accessories as well as transseasonal stock.”

Liz Trendle, owner of Guildford indie The Gate and Catwalk in Godalming, is inceasing her a/w 13 buying budget by 30 per cent on the back of the success of the previous seasons. “We do have core brands we stick with, but we endeavour to introduce at least two or three different labels each season,” she says. “We like to develop strong relationships with the brands we choose in order to get the best assistance with regard to marketing support and stock swaps.”

Although retailers have stricter criteria when it comes to a/w 13, most are approaching the season with a renewed sense of optimism.

“We’ve actually had a good a/w 12 season and have ended up with healthy stock levels at the end of it,” says Hilary Cookson, owner of Maureen Cookson in Whalley, Lancashire.

“However, we were much more assiduous about

“I have dropped brands in the past based predominantly on their performance, but also on the relationship with the supplier. If it does not work once, there is no point spending more money towards it”

our repeats and buying into NOS programmes and it has worked much better. For s/s 13, our stock in-store looks great, and I feel positive, and that’s always a good way to go out buying for the next season.”

11 WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk — FEBRUARY 2013

NEWS —

ONLY LAUNCHES SUB-BRAND Danish young fashion brand Only has launched a new sub-brand for a/w 13, Jacqueline de Yong.

The label is the latest addition to the brand portfolio of parent company Bestseller group and offers affordable basics that are priced below any other brands within the portfolio.

The collection consists of jeans, shirts, T-shirts and jumpers. With prices ranging from £5 to £26 retail, the collection is pitched directly against high street value chains.

“The Jacqueline de Yong concept is basically value for money,” says Helle Stougaard, brand manager. “We give you the best products at the best price – without compromising the quality. We keep focus on the fact that everyone in the value chain can earn money from working with us. We want to show the market that we are as aggressive as the strongest retailers. Jacqueline de Yong creates a unique product line for the everyday wardrobe. These essential styles are always characterised by what is going on in the market.” The brand will offer four collections a year with additional express styles in between.

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FORMER AQUASCUTUM CEO LAUNCHES OWN LABEL Kim Winser, former CEO of luxury brands Pringle of Scotland, Aquascutum and Agent Provocateur, is launching her first own label this month. Called Winser London, the new brand will initially only be available online at Winserlondon.com and is Winser’s first e-commerce venture.

The collection is aimed at women who are looking for timeless styles that have longevity, with simplicity of the designs, cuts and an emphasis on quality of fabrics and yarns characterising the signature of the range.

Though initially only launching in the UK, Winser is planning to expand the range globally in the future. The debut collection is based around a selection of simple, elegant separates, including tailored trousers, a classic trench coat, slouchy jumpers and fitted dresses, with prices ranging from £35 to £350. The inaugural collection has been modelled by Yasmin Le Bon, with the brand officially launching on 15 February to coincide with London Fashion Week.

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UKFT RELAUNCHES ANNUAL AWARDS The UK Fashion and Textile Association (UKFT) is relaunching its annual awards, previously known as the Export Awards, extending the coveted prize to celebrate the entire fashion and textile industry. The UK Fashion and Textile Awards will be held on 23 May at One Mayfair and are set to be the grandest event in its 25-year history. The Awards are open to members and non-members of the UKFT and can be entered at www.ukftawards.org. The deadline for entries is 8 March.

— JOHN LEWIS APPOINTS ONLINE DIRECTOR Department store John Lewis has appointed Mark Lewis as online director. Lewis, who will take up the position next month, will take on the leadership of the online team and assume responsibility for profitability and development of the retailer’s online channel. “Mark is ideally placed to continue the growth and development of our online business,” says John Lewis managing director Andy Street.

“He brings insight and experience of the retail sector, and will be driving further innovation across both our website and omni-channel offer.” In his new role, Lewis will draw on his experience as CEO at Collect+ and prior to that, six years spent at eBay, where his roles included UK managing director and European marketplaces director.

— WINTER SWIMWEAR SALES PEAK FOR DEBENHAMS Debenhams saw a 51 per cent increase in swimwear sales during January, as customers look ahead to warmer months and invest in new season stock. In order to meet demand for these items so early in the year, Debenhams is continuing to roll out holiday shop products, including men’s, women’s and children’s swimwear, beachwear, flip-flops, beach bags and beach towels. Other key findings showed 80 per cent of swimwear purchases were made online, with the highest concentration of sales in the North of England, where temperatures have been particularly low.

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12 WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk — FEBRUARY 2013

NEWS —

GELCO ROLLS OUT MORE CONCESSIONS German lifestyle brand Gelco is adding four new concessions with independent retail partners this month, with plans to open a further six in the second half of the year.

The label, which services around 225 wholesale accounts across the UK and Ireland, has been expanding its retail division and currently has 14 concessions in its portfolio.

“The ability to offer different opportunities of doing business together in today’s market is crucial,” says agent Nigel Hughes, who represents Gelco’s wholesale as well as retail division in the UK. “Obviously, our core business is still based on owner-driven small to medium sized independent retailers.

However, as the market is changing, we have to be in a position to accommodate other avenues to suit different-sized retailers with different philosophies which, in some cases, are shop and area partnerships or concessions.”

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ALL NEW BERLIN SHOWS HAILED A SUCCESS Last month’s revamped Bread & Butter was hailed a success by show organisers, with 70 per cent of visitors coming from outside of Germany.

Bread & Butter

Panorama

According to B&B President Karl-Heinz Müller, the more streamlined brand line-up had paid off, with 560 labels having showcased their collections at the January edition. “The positive feedback of all parties involved shows that concentrating on what’s important to us was the right decision,” he says. The next edition, to be held on 2-4 July, will see the launch of a new womenswear concept – which will be based on the show’s existing LOCK area – and the introduction of a fee for non-buyers for the first time.

Meanwhile, organisers of new show Panorama, pitched at the mid to upper end of the women’s and menswear market, also considered the debut edition a success. The show is said to have attracted over 33,500 unique visitors.

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BESPOKE BANKING FOR INDEPENDENTS The British Independent Retailers Association (Bira) is working to raise awareness among members that it not only offers finance, but also a range of banking services.

Formerly known as Bira Finance, the only trade association owned bank in the country supporting independent retailers, will now operate under the name Bira Bank.

“Clarity of the services available is important for all members,” says John Collins, managing director of Bira Bank. “As part of the change, we are introducing new facilities, starting with online quoting to help members outside of normal 9-5 office hours.” Bira Bank services include working capital, equipment, vehicle and personal loans, cash ISA and deposit accounts. In February, tailored mortgage solutions will also be available.

— BRANDALLEY ACQUIRED BY MANAGEMENT TEAM Private online sales site BrandAlley UK has completed a management buyout backed by private investors from its existing shareholders News International and BrandAlley France. Bruce MacInnes, previously chairman of sports data group Running Ball and head of TMT Investment Banking at Investec, has become the new chairman. The existing business model of the site will remain the same, with the key focus on developing its lifestyle offering of fashion, beauty and homeware at reduced prices.

— TRINITY LEEDS REACHES 90 PER CENT PRE-LET Trinity Leeds, the UK’s largest retail and leisure development currently under construction has let 90 per cent of its retail space, with 10 weeks left until its opening. The development, which is set to open on 21 March, has secured a range of national and international brands and boutiques. Retailers confirmed include the first Victoria’s Secret store outside London, Armani Exchange, the UK’s largest Superdry, German footwear retailer Deichmann, and Mango.

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whErE FashioN ComEs togEthEr

accessories

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lingerie & swimwear

17-19 February 2013, NEC Birmingham Find out more and register for your visit at moda-uk.co.uk

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14 WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk — FEBRUARY 2013

NEWS —

KEY RESEARCH INTO UK RETAIL PLACES

THALASSA FOCUSES ON UK EXPANSION

Considerable changes to retail store networks and the closure of retail business over the past four years has prompted The Local Data Company (LDC) and the University of Oxford to combine forces and explore the state of the UK’s retail places.

French brand Thalassa has identified the UK market as its key area for expansion, and is looking to build a substantial wholesale distribution this year.

The project, whose findings will be published in May 2013, will see the Oxford Institute of Retail Management analysing the database of 530,000 retail and leisure information for 2,000 locations held by LDC. Key areas of assessment include the changing character of retail; the continued relevance of “hierarchies” of retail places – something often used by local authorities in defence of their local plans and generally based on the number of shopping centres or non-food retailers present in a centre; the development of retail-related measures of vulnerability and resilience for areas; and, based on present trends and drivers, what UK retail places could look like in five years’ time.

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The label is working with a network of regional agents headed by Georgina Barnes, which oversees the whole of the UK operation, while Tony Hicks agency is representing the brand in Northern England, SB Fashion Agencies in the Midlands and South West and Mike Trott Fashion Agency in the South East. Thalassa offers two collections per year, featuring coordinating separates with a marine-inspired look. The range is aimed at the 40-plus consumer and goes up to a size 24.

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RELAUNCHED VIZ-A-VIZ EYES GROWTH UK brand Viz-a-Viz is looking to increase its independent and department store presence, following a strategic relaunch and comprehensive makeover of the range for a/w 13.

The brand, which was spun out of the Rinku Group last year but remains in the hands of the Loomba family – Rinku’s owners – has been revamped with a more contemporary signature, offering coordinates that are designed to build a wardrobe season after season.

The brand has also lowered its pricing by 15-20 per cent, having improved its supply chain and sourcing, with retail selling points between £25 and £100. It currently has 300 accounts in independents across the country, and is looking to expand this further in strategic locations and across department stores. Furthermore, Viz-a-Viz has also recently launched an e-commerce arm, which, according to a company spokes person, “is showing huge growth potential and is where we are expecting most of our growth to come from over the next few years.”

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YOURBRANDSPACE INTRODUCES PRE-ORDER Online showroom for fashion brands YourBrandSpace.com has introduced a pre-order facility to its website. The new facility allows buyers in the footwear, accessories and apparel sectors to pre-select items and send multiple pre-selections to relevant suppliers at the click of a button.

— NEW DIRECTOR FOR GABY’S British accessories labels Gaby’s, Gabriella and Sabbella are under the new group directorship of Lorraine Watts as of this season.

The change of directorship heralds a new phase of development for the brands, which are subsidiaries of British accessories company Dents.

With 25 years’ experience in retail and wholesale, following positions at high street chains Next and Boots and jewellery label Kit Heath, Watts has been tasked with strengthening the presence of all three brands in both the domestic and export markets.

— ELENA MIRO LAUNCHES WHITE LABEL TO THE UK Italian plus-size brand Elena Miro, part of the Miroglio Group, is launching its White Label to the UK for a/w 13. The brand offers a contemporary look with a luxury feel with a sophisticated colour palette of pastels alongside vivid brights. The label is available in sizes 10-22 and features knitwear, leggings, trousers, knitted dresses, tops and coats. It will be available at the Group’s showroom on London’s Margaret Street on 8-28 March.

— TCA SHOWROOM APPOINTS NORTHERN IRELAND SALES MANAGER London fashion agency TCA Showroom has appointed Nuala Downey as its sales manager for Norther Ireland. Downey, who has years of industry experience with the likes of Gieves & Hawkes, Savile Row, Ozwald Boatend and young fashion chain Exhibit, will be responsible for womenswear brand Sinequanone, as well as women’s and menswear labels Culture and Gaudi.

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10-12 FEBRUARY 2013 SAATCHI GALLERY | LONDON

AUTUMN/WINTER C O L L E C T I O N S scoop-international.com Meredyth Sparks, Roxy, 2008, Digital print on Sintra, 27 pieces, 182 x 171 x 231 cm,(c) Meredyth Sparks, 2008 Image courtesy of the Saatchi Gallery, London

1ST FLOOR . SHELANA HOUSE . 31 EASTCASTLE STREET LONDON W1W 8DN . TEL: 0207 636 5677 INFO@EUGENKLEIN.CO.UK

18 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

PEOPLE —

BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear —

UKFT KICKS OFF AWARDS RELAUNCH IN STYLE Last month, the UK Fashion an Textile Association (UKFT) took to the street to kick-start its relaunched high-profile event, the UK Fashion and Textile Awards (formerly the UK Export Awards).

A flash-fashion show was held at London’s St Pancras Station, showcasing some of the organisation’s talented design members, including Charlotte Taylor, The House of Nines, Orla Kiely, Tatty Devine, Ariella and Lambretta. Models strutted their stuff across the station, surprising unsuspecting commuters making their way home.

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ROYAL WARRANT FOR JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN

PRIDE OF BRITAIN Iconic British knitwear manufacturer John Smedley has, for the first time in its 229-year history, been granted the Royal Warrant of Appointment to Her Majesty The Queen. The brand has been producing fine knitwear since 1784 in Great Britain and with the Queen and other members of the Royal Family having directly purchased from the brand, as well as having visited its factory at Lea Mills in Matlock, Derbyshire, on multiple occasions since 1935. “It’s fantastic to have such a public acknowledgement of the excellence of our garments,” says managing director Ian Maclean.

“

More than 35 collections will be on show at next month’s Textile Forum at London’s Music Rooms, taking place on 6-7 March. New exhibitors include Spanish silk specialist Jose Maria Ruis and M Makower & Co, offering printed cottons and luxury occasionwear.

Royal visit in Berlin Princess Beatrice and Princess Eugenie of York crowned last month’s streetwear show Bread & Butter with a royal visit on the last day of the show.

The sisters started their Great Britain Mini Tour at the event, flying the flag for British brands abroad.

After the official welcome by B&B president Karl-Heinz Müller (pictured) and his team, the Princesses visited British streetwear labels Superdry, Apricot, Urban Knit, Louche London, Yumi, Gina Stewart Cox and KuSan. — NEWS FLASH — London’s premier menswear area St James’s hosted Fashion East during last month’s London Collections, showcasing high-profile installations by talented young designers.

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Johnstons of Elgin, the largest independent producer of Scottish woollens and fine cashmere, has been granted The Royal Warrant of Appointment to The Prince of Wales. Group managing director James Dracup, says, “We have worked five years through the good offices of James Sugden OBE, the official grantee, who, assisted by John Gillespie, has developed a number of very special tweeds of his Royal Highness.”

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A/W 2013 Programme 1 - 16th January to 7th February Programme 2 - 10th February to 7th March Contact: Chris Foster-Orr Tel: 020 7636 7111 Mobile: 07770 747631 Email: chrisfosterorr@aol.com F.O.S. Fashion Marketing, 4th Floor, Morley House, 320 Regent Street, London W1B 3BF

20 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

OPINION —

TALKING POINT Key industry players give their views on the issues affecting womenswear —

INJECT SOME POSITIVITY INTO THE NEW SEASON

DO OUR INDEPENDENTS KNOW JUST HOW GOOD THEY ARE?

Around four months ago, I made a conscious decision to face the world with a sense of optimism and positivity, buying into the theory that you get back what you give out. I know it sounds like psychobabble mumbo jumbo, but I have to say that it has certainly worked for me. I had always considered myself to be a reasonably positive person, but I now realise I was allowing myself to be far too influenced by negativity from elsewhere – but no more!

Is it just me or do you feel life is very full-on and our inbox is never empty? Sometimes, we can see things more clearly when we are away from our daily routines. For work purposes, I recently had the privilege of spending two months at Florence University, studying Italian in the mornings and fashion/business in the afternoons.

With this thought in mind, I am approaching the winter 2013 season with a real sense of optimism – yes, we all know it’s tough out there, but we can either be beaten down by it or we can take the attitude that the only way is up and let ourselves get excited by the beautiful collections we are working with, whether we are agents or buyers.

The danger of focusing on the negative market conditions is that we don’t “see” the garments in front of us; hands fly straight to the price tag and calculations are made for the retail price without studying the design and creativity we have been presented with. “Musthave” pieces are forgone without any real consideration because the eyes never get beyond the price tag to assess the actual value of that dress or top to the shop. Boutiques still need to differentiate themselves from the high street, now more than ever. Consumers need to be blown away to want to part with their cash – we all know the power of that musthave dress, coat or whatever it may be, but I think the ever-present doom and gloom in the press and marketplace has caused many eyes to glaze over, and the value of exclusive and interesting pieces has taken a back seat to putting something in the shop that appears inexpensive enough to tempt cash-strapped or hesitant customers, invariably these more basic pieces tend to have the opposite effect.

In recent times, I have heard, “I just don’t know what to buy anymore” from retailers that have been in the business for 20-plus years. My answer is trust your gut instincts, open your eyes wide and soak up the many wonderful creations that are out there and remember your customers still want to buy beautiful clothes that will make them feel like individuals and look like a million dollars.

Obviously, price is a factor, but it is not the be all and end all – we are, after all, in the fashion business, which is all about making people feel good whatever is going on in this world we live in. My key word for winter 2013 is positivity – try it; it really works.

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In true Eat Pray Love style, I lived the Italian life, ie minus the husband and children who had recently flown the nest. I was stuck in a place rich in art, cuisine, history, wine and stunning fashion. It wasn’t horrible.

Alongside my studies, I made it my mission to get into the psyche of independent retailers. I wanted to try and gain an insight into their ways of trading, as despite a stagnant growth and the country being in political crisis, fashion remains a top priority for Italian women.

I was introduced to a few womenswear buyers from small and medium sized independent stores in Tuscany. Overall, they were similar to our clients in the UK. They were hardworking women with great personalities, who have a good network of family and friends as their customers. On display were interesting enticements – “buy a dress get your spanx free” and “buy one top get the second half price” were just a few examples. Advertising was interesting, too, with information about expertise and current offers, and publicising evening collaborations with hair, makeup and style workshops in-store. It also wasn’t long before I realised somebody in the media was giving indies a helping hand. The morning news programme had a daily fashion expert. Rather than only featuring high street multiples and bargain prices of a similar dress that a Hollywood A-lister recently wore, it was refreshing to hear them focusing on individual brands and where to buy them.

Why not do the same in the UK? And, by the way, apart from talking about how to work the latest trends, there was a plethora of information about shape solutions, age-defying clothing, how to perfect your wardrobe and how to look different from the crowd. It got me thinking that independents in the UK and Ireland perhaps don’t know just how good they are. They have developed customer relationships in a way that no high street or online shop can offer.

They know their customers well – body shape, personality, the events they attend and the places they go. They even buy for the following season specifically with these people in mind. They are masters at their craft and know how to dress every kind of woman. And, let’s be honest, most women can feel vulnerable when it comes to clothes, yet help her into the right outfit and you will literally see her jumping for joy.

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Karen Wild, co-owner, Essential Collections

Adele Black, owner, Latte Clothing

Selling Dates: Monday 21st January – Thursday 7th March Contacts: Claire Simmons/Chris Foster-Orr F.O.S Fashion Marketing, 4th floor, 320 Regent Street, London W1B 3BF Tel: 020 7636 7111 Email: info@fosfashion.co.uk

22 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

INTERVIEW —

Q&A

Martijn Veldhoven The CEO of Dutch fashion house Veldhoven Group tells Isabella Griffiths why restructuring its portfolio and a new focus on mid-market womenswear will be key to the future growth of its labels Sandwich, Turnover and the newly acquired young fashion brand Dept.

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23 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

Isabella Griffiths: You are restructuring the Veldhoven Group in order to sharpen the focus on the mid market. Why did you make this decision?

Martijn Veldhoven: We feel this is necessary to stay consistent with our strategy of being a focused specialist in the mid-segment womenswear market. This change will ensure the group’s expertise and resources are relevant and can be fully utilised for each of our brands.

It is clear that the retail sector has been affected by the current economic climate. We as a group respond to this by going back to our core - as we see many companies do, actually. The Veldhoven Group has a long heritage in building and positioning brands in the mid-segment womenswear market. That’s our core and we’re going back to our roots, so to speak.

IG: What does this mean for your group and your future development and growth potential?

MV: We believe that this current situation offers many opportunities. In these times, brands with an innovative focus on product design, collection and store concepts will be the winners as they keep on surprising and attracting consumers. Making this choice to focus on mid-market womenswear proves our belief in the success of our brands in that segment. We have made the choice for growth.

IG: You have also recently acquired Dept.

How does this fit into your portfolio?

MV: We believe Dept to be a valuable addition to our portfolio. Dept has strong potential to develop as an international, trend-led fashion brand offering a strong proposition to a relatively young target group. The brand DNA of Dept complements the offers Sandwich and Turnover bring to the market.

IG: Isn’t young fashion a new sector for you? What plans do you have for Dept?

MV: With the acquisition of Dept we indeed broaden our reach in mid-segment womenswear. We believe Dept to have a huge potential internationally. Our plan is to give the brand the needed support to reach its full

INTERVIEW —

“IN THESE TIMES, BRANDS WITH AN INNOVATIVE FOCUS ON PRODUCT DESIGN, COLLECTION AND STORE CONCEPTS WILL BE THE WINNERS AS THEY KEEP ON SURPRISING AND ATTRACTING CONSUMERS. MAKING THIS CHOICE TO FOCUS ON MID-MARKET WOMENSWEAR PROVES OUR BELIEF IN THE SUCCESS OF OUR BRANDS”

IG: You are also looking to spin off your premium brand Stills and childrenswear brand NoNo. What is the reason?

MV: As a luxury brand, Stills requires different resources and processes than our labels operating in mid-market womenswear. So we had to conclude that our group is not the correct platform for these brands to reach their full potential. The UK is a very important market for Stills and will be a focus country for the team. We believe that Stills will gain significantly from more independence, with a market-aligned structure and more specialised support. Therefore we have decided that it will remain owned by the Veldhoven family, but be spun out as a separate entity, with its own office and responsibility for sourcing its own specialist services while continuing to benefit from Veldhoven Group’s expertise and support.

potential, this combined with the knowledge the current Dept team has of – what you call – “young fashion”, will strengthen Dept. We approach the integration of Dept in the Veldhoven Group from an inside-out perspective. The Veldhoven Group will take due time to assess what approach will be in the best interest of the brand. We as a group bring our know-how, the Dept team bring their knowledge. We take the time to learn, to assess and will then decide whether things need to be tweaked or changed.

IG: The Group is family owned. Does this influence the work ethic of the company?

MV: Being a family business does influence our work ethic in that we are passionate about what we do, we don’t need to consult external parties in our decision-making processes and a value-based compnay culture is fully embeddied into our organisation. Having this personal attachment to our business, and the success of it, does give it a distinct dynamic.

IG: Last year you pulled Turnover out of the UK market – why was that?

MV: Similarly to the current situation with Dept, we also took the time to learn and assess when acquiring Turnover at the time. Prior to our acquisition, Turnover was distributed in the UK. After our assessment we decided we needed to put full focus on taking the collection to the next level. And looking at the new Fall collection, big steps have been made. So, in a way, it’s taking one step back in order to then take two forward. We have strong belief and ambitions for Turnover and believe that in due time there will be a place for the brand in the UK market.

IG: What are your plans for the UK? MV: Sandwich continues to be the bestselling brand in the UK within the independents. Our focus for 2013 is on the continued development of Sandwich. We have over 400 accounts across the UK and Ireland and are very happy with our current stockist base. We are always looking for growth and this will predominantly come incrementally by working closely with our current partners. Turnover will be relaunched in the UK market, it is just a question of when.

The brand has a very strong European look, which proved difficult to develop in the UK due to the reluctance of customers to try something new during difficult economic times. However, the brand was well received by the consumer and we are confident it has a place in the market.

In the near future, we will also be introducing Dept to the UK. However, it is a very recent acquisition and, as mentioned earlier, we will take due time to assess what approach will be in the best interest of the brand.

IG: What are the main challenges for your Group of brands at the moment?

MV: Our objective is to stay fully focused on our renewed strategy. We currently don’t have concrete plans for new acquisitions, but of course we always keep an open mind. But right now our focus is on integrating Dept and carrying through our plans for the rest of our portfolio.

INFORMATION – The Veldhoven Group started in 1950 in the Netherlands as an importer for various clothing producers – In the 70s the company made progress with wholesale activities, and in 1981 the Sandwich brand was launched – Premium brand Stills and childrenswear brand NoNo were both launched in 1994, while Turnover was added to the portfolio in 2010 – The company is wholly owned by the Veldhoven Group, lead by chairman Willem Veldhoven, the founder’s son, and CEO Martijn Veldhoven, his son, who joined in 2000 and is responsible for the commercial and operational development – The group has over 1,200 employees and exports worldwide

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FRANK SAUL (FASHIONS) LTD. FRANK SAUL HOUSE, STEELE ROAD, PARK ROYAL, LONDON NW10 7AR TEL . + 44 (0) 208 965 1522

FAX. + 44 (0) 208 965 1518

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Copyright © 2012 - 2015 Frank Saul Fashions and/ or its suppliers. All rights reserved © Crown copyright 2011. All rights reserved

26 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

REPORT —

FASHIONING THE FUTURE Launched two years ago, Fashion Enter is running the first apprentice scheme for the fashion industry, training the textile workforce of tomorrow. Isabella Griffiths spoke to the scheme’s leader and Fashion Enter founder Jenny Holloway about why it’s important for the industry to get behind apprenticeships, and how businesses, from manufacturers to independent retailers, can get involved.

— Can you give some background on the Fashion Apprentice scheme?

The fashion apprenticeship scheme was launched in 2011 and Fashion Enter was asked to be the pilot provider by Creative Skillset. The industry is currently blessed with some excellent individuals working in fashion training and education today. In the past, I personally feel as though there has been a mismatch of qualifications with the needs of industry. Creative Skillset leads the way by setting the framework for the advanced apprenticeship qualification, and when you have the right mindset behind a programme you can achieve anything. We are building the entrepreneurs and the leading business people of tomorrow with the apprenticeship programme. We successfully completed the first-ever five apprentices with 100 per cent success rate and have recently been asked to pilot the Level 4 framework with the first recruit on board. We are now ABC centre approved, I am a qualified assessor and in training to be an IQA assessor. It is so important to get fully behind the scheme and we now have everything in place to deliver the programme from start to finish.

The next goal really is to create a National Training Association that really unites education throughout the UK and industry today so we are all working in unison for the good of the fashion industry.

Who qualifies for the apprentice scheme?

There is an age restriction, 16 up to 24 years old, and candidates must have at least five GCSEs with grades A - C in Maths and English. As the qualification gained is a Level 3, the programme is not open to graduates.

Once this is met, it is vital the apprentice has a real passion for the industry and wants to learn. They will be trained on the job, so technical skills at the initial stage are not critical; it's a real willingness to learn that is important.

Who qualifies in terms of offering an apprentice scheme? Is it just big players, or can smaller businesses, including independent retailers, also offer an apprenticeship?

Although we have had a fantastic response from the big players such as Asos, New Look and House of Fraser, we do have many smaller designer

businesses, manufacturers and independent retailers on board that really do benefit from hiring an apprentice. Melanie Lambeth, owner of bespoke wedding business The Wedding Workshop, hired her first apprentice last year. I have actually become quite close to Melanie, who works so hard with her own thriving business, and for me it’s great to have such a strong rapport with the employers.

What are the different apprenticeship positions that can be offered?

The types of roles that an apprentice on the apparel pathway can take range from – but are not exclusive to – garment technologist, fabric technologist, pattern cutter, first and seal coster, grader, sample machinist, quality controller, trainee tailor and dressmakers. We are also working with House of Fraser on providing the apprenticeship Level 3 qualification for the buyers’ admin role, too. This is a perfect fit for the buying function as many buyers do not have the formal training to look at a garment during the fit process and actually know why the balance is wrong, or the consequences of taking 1cm off the shoulder seam.

What does an apprenticeships involve?

It is a 24-month course during which the apprentices spend four days a week with their employer and one day training in situ at the Fashion Studio. There are 13 units to be taken in total and the learning consists of practical assessments and research whilst working through a 500-page manual devised by industry masters. The training takes place at our Fashion Studio so it is real hands-on, practical experience in a manufacturing unit operating in today’s industry. There is a payment of £2.65 per hour for the first 12 months, and this then increases to the national minimum wage depending on the age group.

Is this something that is London-centric, or can businesses across the UK offer the scheme?

Currently, only businesses across England can take part in the programme.

The National Apprenticeship Service (NAS) supports, funds and coordinates the delivery of apprenticeships throughout England. An online service has been set up by NAS to simplify the process of recruiting an apprentice for employers where they can advertise their vacancies and potential apprentices can apply.

What are the benefits to businesses offering apprenticeships?

This is all about succession planning; businesses can train young people the right way, from patterns to fittings to manufacturing techniques, which in turn increases the availability of experienced and capable employees. It is developing a sustainable and reliable workforce and allows access to the motivated talent of tomorrow, who are the industry’s future.

27 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

REPORT —

CASE STUDY – THE APPRENTICE

What are the benefits to apprentices taking up the schemes?

The programme enables apprentices to integrate what is learnt in the classroom into a work-based environment, providing an invaluable experience of what the industry is really like, whilst achieving a qualification and earning. It is a fantastic alternative to university, with vocational training becoming increasingly recognised as providing a better career-development pathway than formulated academic learning.

How has the reaction been to the apprenticeship programme?

The reaction has been overwhelming. We have 26 apprentices enrolled on the programme now, with further employers, ranging from big name companies to smaller design houses, in the initial stages of hiring their first apprentice. London Fashion Week designer Marios Schwab is the latest company to work with us on finding the right apprentice. The first five apprentices completed the course last year with all of them now in full-time employment within the industry.

What are the main considerations for companies looking to offer apprenticeships?

It is important employers understand they are hiring a young person to train and upskill to industry standard. This is about longevity and developing a sustainable workforce for not only their business but also for the future of the industry.

Are there any downsides or disadvantages of offering apprenticeships?

There is a lot of hard work by the team to provide the highest possible standards in delivery. There has to be triangulation of evidence and the course must be practical. You can't find this information in books or on the web. It’s all about doing – it’s being there on site with the latest flat and overlocking machines, working out lay plans, knowing the difference between a critical and non critical fault... I personally love it!

Why is it so important that the industry starts to offer apprenticeships?

The apprentices of today have the ability to become tomorrow’s leading fashion experts because they will know how to construct and design a strong garment. They will review all areas of fashion at a deeper level than design and illustration. This is real fashion training and with the current return to British manufacturing, it’s the perfect time for any employer to consider the apprenticeship programme.

What is your goal for the scheme?

We have two centres for training at the moment; Haringey N4 and Newham E16, and we hope to open a third in Essex later this year. These sites will enable us to recruit up to a maximum of 150 apprentices at any one time. The goal is to combine education and industry to ensure the next generation has the right skills the keep the fashion industry striving; the apprentices of today are the talent for tomorrow.

Fashion Enter is holding an Apprenticeship Open Day on 12 February for both employers and those thinking about joining the programme to become an apprentice. It will be an informal drop-in day for candidates to meet with employers and learn all about the 24-month programme. For more information email jenni@fashion-enter.com.

Name: Anna Falconer Age: 22 Location: North London Apprenticeship type: Level 3 Textiles and Apparel — What made you apply for an apprenticeship?

It was the perfect chance for me to study and work at the same time, without the cost of university and with the opportunity to stay on at the company.

How have you found the process?

It has been harder work than I anticipated, but I have also learned so much more than I could have imagined.

Who did you do the apprenticeship with?

Asos – it has been my best and biggest achievement to date. I had a great team of tutors and managers who helped me along the way.

What are the main skills you’ve learned?

Team-building skills, but also practical skills such as what it takes to be a garment technologist.

What do you think of the apprenticeship?

The apprenticeship has been a challenge but very rewarding. I have learned skills that I could never have learned at university and I have been taught so much about career progression and development.

Have you managed to secure a job?

Yes. I now work full-time as an assistant garment technologist at Asos.

Do you feel you have benefited in any other ways?

Yes, it has given me confidence in my abilities, and also showed me how to work to my full ability.

CASE STUDY – THE EMPLOYER Name: Sophie Glover Position: Head of technical services, Asos.com Location: London — What made you offer an apprenticeship?

Asos prides itself in being passionate about people and developing talent for the future. It was because of this that we jumped at the opportunity to work with Fashion Enter on the first National Apprenticeship Scheme in apparel in January 2011. We worked very closely with Fashion Enter and we were the first fashion retailer to offer apprenticeships at our head office in London.

What kind of apprenticeships have you offered?

We run the Level 3 Advanced Apprenticeship programme in Fashion and Textiles ABC Award. We currently have two apprentices in garment technology: one on own-buy menswear, and one on own-buy womenswear.

What has the experience been like?

In the early stages it was a learning curve, but that’s to be expected with something so new. Once our original apprentices had settled in, their course content had been perfected, and we’d worked out the logistics, it was great.

This is the only course that combines real industrial practices with education.

What has it added to your business?

Asos already offers a fantastic university internship, so apprentices seemed like the natural next step to take. It’s added an additional level of skill set to my team, and allowed us to build an internal mentoring scheme.

Have there been any problems, risks or negatives?

There are risks, that’s why we held intensive assessment days to make sure we chose the right candidates.

Would you recommend offering apprenticeships?

Absolutely. It’s been so rewarding to see our apprentices develop, and the successful ones have been given full-time jobs as assistant technologists.

Why is it important that, as an industry, we support apprenticeships?

University isn’t for everyone and this scheme allows creative young people the opportunity to get on-the-job experience and a qualification at the same time. It also puts them slightly ahead of the game as it allows them to enter into the job market sooner than a university graduate.

Pure Stand P124 Moda, NEC Stand G14 BBEH Stand C22/41

FRANK SAUL (FASHIONS) LTD. FRANK SAUL HOUSE, STEELE ROAD, PARK ROYAL, LONDON NW10 7AR TEL . + 44 (0) 208 965 1522

FAX. + 44 (0) 208 965 1518

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Copyright © 2012 - 2015 Frank Saul Fashions and/ or its suppliers. All rights reserved © Crown copyright 2011. All rights reserved

32 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

FASHION —

STYLE FILE This month’s product news —

▲ CARRY ON UK brand Josoblu specialises in stylish and practical bags, with its Re-Uz collection featuring reusable carriers. The strong and sturdy bags come in eye-catching and retro designs and can be folded and placed into their own pouch. Wholesale prices start at £2.50, with the brand looking to expand across independent boutiques this year.

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▲

NEEDLE & STITCH Launching for a/w 13 is UK brand Needle, a luxury knitwear label created by former LK Bennett knitwear developer Lizzie Cawthray. The collection includes richly textured cable-fronted jumpers, chic jackets and Peter Pan collared knits, all with a creative and contemporary edge.

The brand is set to be launched to independent retailers this season.

For more information follow @needleitknits on Twitter.

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STYLE FLASH — Dutch children’s accessories label Anne-Claire Petit has expanded its range to include adult brooches, wallets, bracelets and iPad covers, featuring the brand’s colourful crochet style.

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Supremebeing’s s/s 13 range vows to be an antidote to the depressing negativity of the current economic climate, with styles and colours that are set to make the wearer feel inspired and happy.

Relaxed silhouettes and a subtle colour palette are among the key features.

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▲ HEART BY NANA HAS LANDED It may be from the same stable as popular Australian menswear label Nana Judy, but Heart by Nana is more than just a sister brand. The womenswear version strikes a perfect balance between an edgy rock aesthetic and a softer femininity and has quickly established itself in its home market in its own right. The label is launching to the UK for a/w 13 and is set to replicate the success.

— STYLE FLASH — Ethical accessories label NV London Calcutta has launched its newest collaboration with illustrator Hannah Davies, featuring screen prints on scarves made from ethically produced handspun silk.

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Lifestyle label Ruby & Ed’s s/s 13 collection is the brand’s largest ever clothing collection, infused with dainty prints and bespoke detailing.

Highlights include cute tops, raincoats and quirky pumps.

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—

Absolute harmony Jewellery brand Miss Milly has launched its latest offering, the aptly named Harmony Collection. The range features a combination of natural stones and pearls combined with manmade stainless steel and glass. The stones are individually selected, and each piece of jewellery is handcrafted. Look out for necklaces and bracelets, which are among the standout pieces.

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General Enquiries 01392 876390 | Customer Service 0800 294 3373 | Official sponsor of JosephRibkoff.com

35 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

STOCK UPDATE —

THE 10 BEST

COLOURED JEANS 01

02

03

04

05

SPOTLIGHT — Coral, lemon, peach and turquoise will be popular tones across denim for spring. Make the most and merchandise in-store with easy breezy whites and floral prints.

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06

07

08

09

10

SPOTLIGHT — Vintage themes such as colour-blocking, patches, tie-dyes and acid washes are given new life this season with modern interpretations in super-skinny cuts.

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Think denim jeans are just a style staple?

Think again. This season, denim is anything but boring with loud prints and a rainbow of colour options. WWB selects the key syles, available to get in-store now.

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01 Odd Molly, £44, 0207 486 4800 02 Almost Famous, £31, 020 7637 2622 03 Only, £14, 020 3205 0340 04 Soaked in Luxury, £23, 020 8875 5851 05 Nobody, £68, 020 7486 4800

06 Bellerose, €44, 020 7486 4800 07 MiH Jeans, £68, 020 7349 9030 08 2nd Day, £34, 020 7499 2522 09 Gsus Sindustries, €50, 0031 205095555 10 Maison Scotch, £44, 0845 862 2056 Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale

GINA BACCONI 020 8438 2000 WWW.GINABACCONI.COM

37 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

IN SEASON —

FRIENDS FOREVER Friendship bracelets are getting a grown-up makeover for spring with beads, crystals and charms. WWB selects its favourite in-season styles to instantly refresh your offer.

— SPOTLIGHT — Friendship bracelets are making a return for spring in eye-catching neon tones clashed with Swarovski crystals and quirky beads.

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01

02

03

04

05

06

SPOTLIGHT — Stack bracelets by tills to encourage add-on sales, or merchandise in-stores with festival essentials come summer.

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-01- Grand Bazaar, £25, 07813 791257 -02- Gina Stewart Cox, £22.18, 020 7739 1414-03- Pura Vida, retail price £14, 020 7739 8691 -04- Kit Heath, £10, 01271 329123 -04- Aamaya by Priyanka, £48, 07799 603797 -04- Tresor Paris, retail price £79, 020 3355 4031 Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale

38 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

FASHION —

FASHION RADAR VOODOO GIRL

ALEXIS BARRELL

New young womenswear label Voodoo Girl is bursting onto the scene with its first collection for spring/summer 2013 – Just a Dream.

After an exclusive launch with MyWardrobe.com for spring/summer 2013, newcomer Alexis Barrell is definitely one to watch.

Established: 2012

Established: 2011

Signature style: In-your-face prints and a tough attitude for a young, trend-led audience.

Signature style: A cool, young label where leathers and silks are key fabrics and each piece stands on its own merit.

The idea behind Voodoo Girl was conceived in early 2012 by Ryan Stripe and Sam Bell, the design and brand managing duo behind growing menswear label Sinstar.

Launched last month, Voodoo Girls is taking Sinstar’s aesthetic and reworking it for a new audience of young girls wanting the same rock ’n’ roll attitude in their wardrobes. As a result, the initial 25-piece summer range, Just a Dream, is bursting with colour and print, with sunshine yellows and baby pinks having been reinvented into tie-dye and ombre patterns. Slouchy, off-the-shoulder T-shirts, printed crop denim shorts and sleeveless maxi dresses look set to be winners, and no doubt flying off the shelves will be a denim jacket, dip-dyed in neon with studded shoulders.

The initial launch will be followed by two mini drops, and for a/w 13 the label will progress into a broader category range, including draped printed dresses, leggings, knitwear and denims. The Voodoo Girls’ website and Asos are current stockists, with those targeted being a mix of big-name stores and niche distribution throughout Asia and the South Pacific. Wholesale prices range from £18 to £40.

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Founder and designer Alexis Barrell presents each of her collections as a journey, where all colours, prints and forms are explorations of the culture of each destination.

The s/s 13 line is no exception, and pays homage to Barrell’s travels in the African Karoo, simultaneously picking up on references to blue and white Delft Dutch porcelain, her uncle’s vast and priceless range of historic Victorian botanical hand drawings, and the photography of Francesca Woodman.

The brand’s often-used muse of “a girl on a voyage” is executed in original silk prints, sunny yellows and punched leather pieces with denim accents. Silhouettes, meanwhile, are free and loose, with key pieces including skirts with graduated hems, wide-leg silk pyjama-style trousers and bias-cut, mid-length and maxi dresses. Leather pieces such as dungaree shorts, split skirts and intricately detailed bomber jackets keep the collection fresh and youthful.

Wholesale prices range from £32 to £310, and current stockists include MyWardrobe.com, as well as high-end indies across the globe, while further expansion in the UK is also planned.

—

Tel: +44 (0) 208 438 2000 www.rubyray.com

CJC

Danish Designer Outerwear (www.loftfashion.dk)

Sizes 8-30 Agent for the UK Amanda Knights Fashion Agencies

Now showing in our Manchester Showroom: 1st Floor, 24 Dale Street, Manchester M1 1FY Tel: 0161 236 4455 Email: sales@knightsfashion.co.uk www.knightsfashion.co.uk Also showing at Moda - Stand H10

W

The I.L.M Offenbach presents season novelties Autumn | Winter 2013-14.

Central topics: International lifestyle and fashion brands, young culture and sport labels, first-class offers for travel and business.

09.-11.3.2013

Bags, leather accessories and more.

Messe Offenbach GmbH Kaiserstr. 108 -112 路 D - 63065 Offenbach am Main Fon + 49 69 829755 - 0 路 Fax + 49 69 829755 - 60 www.messe-offenbach.de 路 info@messe-offenbach.de

Here are the trends.

Here is the marketplace.

bianca

phone +44 (0) 20 75 80 00 85

www.bianca.de

Autumn/Winter 2013

43 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

PROFILE —

Monkee Genes is the first Fairtrade and organic denim label with The Soil Association accreditation, and its cheeky attitude and colourful denims have become a consumer favourite.

Isabella Griffiths chats to the brand’s founder, Phil Wildbore, about combining ethics with fashion, and why showing at this month’s urbanwear exhibition Flip is set to expand its reach further.

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TOP BANANA P

hil Wildbore, founder of denim label Monkee Genes, has a deep, infectious laugh that instantly breaks the ice when WWB calls for a chat. Originally from the Wirral, but now living and working in the idyllic rural setting of Derbyshire, Wildbore oozes that typical Northern charm and confidence.

Nevertheless, he may have fun holding the reins at one of the fastest growing denim labels, Monkee Genes, but when it comes to the ethics of the business, he’s serious about it.

Monkee Genes is a Fairtrade and organic label, and the first ethical denim brand to have accreditations from The Soil Association and the Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS). Its core message – proudly displayed on the Monkee Genes corporate identity – states: “No slave labour.

No child labour. No blood. No Sweat. No Tears.” The message is loud and clear, and it’s the brand’s ethical stance, teamed with its quirky and colourful designs, that has made it the thinking consumer’s denim brand of choice.

Wildbore founded Monkee Genes in 2006 as an antidote to the disposability of the Primarks of this world – it’s the third denim label of his career, after having been the brain behind Go Vincinity in the 80s and Road Jeans more recently. Monkee Genes, however, is the brand that seems closest to his heart, with a desire to do well that goes beyond normal business calculations. Wildbore is the best advocate for his label and the ethical stance behind it and manages to challenge perspectives on disposable fashion without sounding patronising. “I think trying to be as ethical as you can towards people and the environment is a way of life,” he

says. “I’m not standing on a soapbox preaching to people, but I don’t agree with making something that is disposable and that somewhere along the line has been made at other people’s expense. You can’t make big profits out of us like with some brands. There are labels out there that are so cheap, but they are cheap for a reason and some poor sod had to pay for it somewhere. That’s not what we’re about.”

Wildbore is involved in every aspect of the business, including the design of the collection and development of new denim treatments and finishes, and he admits to being a bit of an old-school denim aficionado.

“I’ve been in jeans since I was a kid,” he says. “ I’ve always been slightly anorakish about denim. I love it and still get a buzz from it.”

Priced between £60 and £100 retail, Monkee Genes is neither cheap nor premium, but sits nicely in an affordable category for most consumers, though clearly above high street prices. “I’m not daft,” says Wildbore. “When you have a label, it’s got to be on the commercial level.

Our price is what it is after everyone has had their share of the cake and everyone makes a profit. I find it worrying that people today don’t want to pay £60 for a pair of well-made, good-quality jeans, but are happy to pay £20 for a piece of rubber that protects their iPhones.”

Still, there are clearly enough shoppers who do buy Monkee Genes, as the label has been growing at a nice pace since it was conceived seven years ago. It’s become known for its colourful denims and recognisable bold banana logo, and its fanbase is hugely diverse. “I love the feeling of rhythm when you put on a pair of Monkee Genes; they are so comfortable >>>

44 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

PROFILE —

“You can’t make big profits out of us like with some brands. There are labels out there that are so cheap, but they are cheap for a reason, and some poor sod had to pay for it somewhere. That’s not what we’re about” Phil Wildbore and make you feel good – even dancers wear them,” says Wildbore. “A few of the dancers on Strictly Come Dancing wear Monkee Genes – admittedly, not the coolest show, but still, it goes to show how comfortable they are that dancers are wearing them. And that One Direction geezer [Louis Tomlinson], he’s wearing our jeans. That’s cool. People either love Monkee Genes or they don’t. But it looks different and that gets noticed.”

Currently, Monkee Genes has 200 accounts in the UK, including what Wildbore calls “the royal family of stores”, Selfridges, and is keen to extend the reach of the label further. “There are still areas where we haven’t got a decent playlist,” he says, which is why the brand will be exhibiting at next month’s street and urbanwear show Flip (see preview on page 96) following the brand’s exit from Bread & Butter, and Wildbore is determined to make the event count. “There isn’t a British show for our market and Flip fills that gap,” he says. “There is a great momentum behind the UK at the moment and I think it’s time to get behind a British show. The guys from Flip have got the right attitude and energy, and the event is a fresh concept, so we’ll put our energy into it, too. Put it this way, you’ll certainly notice us there, ” he laughs.

Expansion is clearly a big target for Monkee Genes, both in the UK and abroad, the latter of which has been taking off rapidly for the brand, with representation in most European countries. The label is also about to break Asia, too. But while things seem to be going well for Monkee Genes, Wildbore confesses he is behind on his growth targets. “We would have grown two or three times in size by now but, thanks to the high street

banks, it didn’t happen, as they nearly had us out of business last year. We had a huge amount of forward orders during 2012 but were unable to fulfill them because of restrictions placed on us by HSBC. To date, we haven’t had the opportunity to see the full potential of the brand. We managed to turn it around, though. Despite this, our customers stayed with us, proving there is genuinely something lovely about the momentum behind Monkee Genes.”

Apart from a concession in Topshop, wholesale has been the main route to market for Monkee Genes, and Wildbore does not seem tempted to venture into retail. “I think if you have a full range like Superdry, for instance, it’s an obvious route, but in our case it’s more difficult. I don’t think it’s the right route for us,” he says, dismissing also any speculation about expansion of merchandise. “I think you are what you are, and if you’re great at denim you’re not automatically great at apparel, and it’s difficult to find someone who is and who you can work with. I’m not saying we won’t have a T-shirt line at some stage, but at the moment there are no plans to introduce apparel.”

Wildbore is generally optimistic about the future of Monkee Genes, especially having built up an impressive network of distributors who are developing the label across the globe. “We have a phenomenal group of top-notch distributors who genuinely love our product – it’s reassuring.

I’ve spent the last few years establishing Monkee Genes as a proper denim brand, and it’s hopefully paying off,” he says.

Lochcarron of Scotland MODA, Stand M50 Tel: +44 (0) 1750 726 000 E: quality@lochcarron.com

Peter Scott MODA, Stand MD42 Tel: +44 (0) 1450 373 311 E: sales@peterscott.co.uk

48 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

Vintage by Fe

PREVIEW —

Vilagallo

COUNTDOWN TO SCOOP Boutique trade show Scoop International takes place on 10-12 February at London’s Saatchi Gallery, presenting more than 250 designer labels. WWB sums up the latest signings and gives a taster of the brands not to miss.

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Des Petits Hauts

Schott

Rosemary Goodenough

Essentiel

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Xuz Handmade Lovers

PREVIEW —

Coccinelle

Eileen Fisher

This season’s show will be the largest edition to date with more than 250 exhibitors from across ready-to-wear, footwear, accessories and complementary products. The show has retained its concept of exclusivity and hand-selected labels, and once again showcases some of the finest UK and international designers and premium labels. It’s no surprise that Scoop has become the go-to destination for high-end department stores such as Harrods, Harvey Nichols, Fenwicks, Fortnum & Mason and Liberty, as well as the likes of Net-a-porter, prestigious stores such as Matches and Browns and the cream of independent boutiques across the country.

Following last season’s Belgian spectacular, the February edition takes its focus northwards, presenting the best of Scandinavian fashion. Swedish collections include the likes of Swedish Hasbeens, Hunky Dory, Odd Molly, Vintage by Fe, Twist & Tango and Filippa K, while Denmark will be represented with the likes of M.Wiesneck, Becksöndergaard, Margit Brandt, Ilse Jacobsen, Elise Gug and Malou Sander’s Muus. Meanwhile, By Ti Mo and Nordic Bakery will be flying the flag for Norwegian style. This is topped off with high-profile collections from across the globe, including Schott and fellow US label Eileen Fisher, French brands Des Petits Hauts and Princesse Metropolitaine, Spanish label Vilagaro, Essentiel from Belgium and UK brands The Rose, Modern Love and Lindy Ross.

Finally, don’t miss Scoop’s strong selection of accessories and footwear labels, including Coccinelle, Rosemary Goodenough, Morah Morah, Barbara Rihl, Art of Henri, Rae Jones and Xuz Handmade Lovers to name just some of the exhibitors to look out for. Scoop’s ongoing partnership with the Saatchi Gallery puts the show into a wider cultural context – this time Gaiety, an exhibition on Russian contemporary art, will be in situ, allowing visitors to sample not only the finest fashion available, but also brush up on their contemporary art.

Princesse Metropolitaine

Hunky Dory

DESIGN THAT EXPANDS HORIZONS. SCARVES ARE OUR WORLD.

THALASSA is a lifestyle brand, combining high quality and comfort with an authentic and modern look.

THALASSA Autumn / Winter 2013 takes us to all four corners of France, richly inspired by the ebb and flow of the ocean.

VISIT US AT PURE LONDON STAND J138 10TH -12TH FEBRUARY LOUISE.SMART@FRAAS.COM T: 020 7486 8916 FRA AS.COM

Main U.K. Agent: Georgina Barnes Ltd.: 01625 545980 Northern England: Tony Hicks: 07768 315475 Midlands and South West: S.B. Fashion Agencies: 07957 477631 South East: The Mike Trott Fashion Agency: 07802 701163

Joy Redfern UK Agent Tel: 07876 333397 Email: joyredfern@me.com Bellina Ireland Agent - Dublin Tel: 00353 1429 5440 www.elisacavaletti.com See us at MODA, Stand L50 or call for Showroom appointment

AU TU MN 2013

Showing at: Pure, Olympia, Stand Q103 Moda UK, NEC, Stand I15 London Showroom Tel: 020 8961 4000 www.pomodoroclothing.com

SIMPLY DOES IT THE STRONGEST LOOKS FROM MAINSTREAM WOMENSWEAR FOR A/W 13.

Jacket, Kapalua, £61, 020 7291 0531 Top, Luisa Cerano, £44.50, 020 7323 6100 Jeans, Ronen Chen, £45, 020 7402 5292 Ring, Designsix, £3.20, 020 8766 7823

Top, Rene Lezard, price on request, 020 7436 1701 Cardigan, Rene Lezard, price on request, 020 7436 1701 Trousers, Rene Lezard, price on request, 020 7436 1701 Necklace, ÂŁ6.20, and ring, ÂŁ5.60, both Designsix, 020 8766 7823

Jumper, Style Butler, £50, 020 3432 6385 Necklace, Design Six, £5.90, 020 8766 7823 Jeans, Elisa Cavaletti, price on request, 07876 333397

Dress, Steilmann, £38.10, 020 7291 0522 Ring, Designsix, £3.04, 020 8766 7823 Tights, stylist’s own

Blouse, Luisa Cerano, £86.50, 020 7323 6100 Leather leggings, Luisa Cerano, £273, 020 7323 6100 Jacket, Style Butler, £214, 020 3432 6385

Blouse, Style Butler, ÂŁ50, 020 3432 6385 Jacket, Rene Lezard, price on request, 020 7436 1701

Top, Hauber, £40, 020 7323 6100 Jacket, Hauber, £144, 020 7323 6100 Jeans, Ronen Chen, £49, 020 7402 5292

Top, Style Butler, £67, 020 8766 7823 Jacket, Style Butler, £127, 020 8766 7823 Jeans, Ronen Chen, £45, 020 7402 5292 Ring, £5.60, Designsix, 020 8766 7823

Jumper, Luisa Cerano, £96, 020 7323 6100 Trousers, Pomodoro, £24, 020 8961 4000 Cuff, Designsix, £5.60, 020 8766 7823

Blouse, Hauber, £54, 020 7323 6100 Trousers, Latte, £32.50, 0141 204 0699 Jacket, Bianca, £159.95, 020 7580 0085 Ring, Designsix, £3.20, 020 8766 7823 Shoes, stylist’s own

Blouse, Luisa Cerano, £86.50, 020 7323 6100 Jacket, Luisa Cerano, £238, 020 7323 6100 Leggings, Bandolera, price on request, 0031 (0)102381523

Blouse, Luisa Cerano, £92, 020 7323 6100 Cardigan, Jackpot, £38.44, 020 8875 5833 Trousers, Style Butler, £254, 020 3432 6385 Cuff, Designsix, £5.40, 020 8766 7823

Jumper, James Lakeland, price on request, 020 7636 7130 Jeans, Ronen Chen, £45, 020 7402 5292 Cuff, Designsix, £5.40, 020 8766 7823 Shoes, stylist’s own

Credits Photographs: Darren Black. Styling: Natalie Dawson. Hair and make-up: Claire Portman using Estée Lauder and Paul Mitchell Model: Caroline at Oxygen Models. Shot on location at Idlewild, Maida Vale Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale

Blouse, Gelco, price on request, 020 7580 3202 Jeans, Olsen, £42.50, 020 7290 0890 Jacket, Pomodoro, £26, 020 8961 4000 Ring, Designsix, £3.20, 020 8766 7823

JOSEPH HOWE FASHION AGENTS 99 High Street Henley-in-Arden T: 1564 794 127 E: nathan@josephhowe.co.uk BILLY DARGAN FASHION AGENCIES Fashion City - Unit 43 Ballymount, Republic of Ireland T: 353 872 425 759 E: williamdarganfashion@mail.com

CARTISE.COM

See us at: Moda Accessories, Stand N40 Pure, Stand J199 Oliver & Suze Ltd 12 Ogle Street, London, W1W 6HU Tel: +44 (0)207 637 7213 Fax: +44 (0)207 637 9336 suzanne@suzannebettley.com www.suzannebettley.com

You are invited to see both Autumn/Winter 13/14 and short order for immediate delivery at PURE - Stand R95 and MODA - Stand J40 or at our MANCHESTER SHOWROOM until 28th February Introducing new label

Lou Mai www.clamorfashion.com

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For further information please call 07770 664977

Visit us at Moda to view our full range of Men’s & Women’s footwear - Stand S9 Hall 20 on the 17th - 19th February.

Enter our F1 simulator time trial at Moda The quickest around the Silverstone track wins 2 tickets to the British F1 Grand Prix.

We are offering 5% discount on all orders written at Moda.

For further details visit us or call the Chatham team on 0845 2700 217

www.chatham-marine.co.uk

LONDON SHOWROOM Godske Group UK. Showroom: 65 Margaret Street, London W1W 8SP. DUBLIN SHOWROOM Godske Group Ireland, Unit 5, Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24.

Autumn/Winter 2013 Size 8-22 A new stylish fashion brand created by the best of Italian & Danish design.

A full range of timeless fashion essentials for every occasion. —

Gallery Dusseldorf Fashion House 1, Floor 1 Room 131 -133 31 January - 5 February 2013 Ciff Copenhagen Bella Centre B3 - 241 31 January - 3 February 2013 London Showroom also open Sunday 10 February 2013 Weekend of Pure Moda UK NEC Birmingham Hall 18 - stand I12 17 February - 19 February 2013 Dublin Showroom Weekend 24 February - 26 February 2013

Tel: 0207 636 3063 Fax: 0207 636 3863 Email: pug@godske.com Tel: 00353 1 4295042 Fax: 00353 1 4295043

Autumn/Winter 2013 Launching Programme 2 for AW’13 at Moda UK, Birmingham, Stand I10.

Available to view afterwards in our regional showrooms.

For more details please ring our UK head office on 0207 291 0522.

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AUTUMN/ WINTER 2013 AT MODA Taking place on 17-19 February at the NEC, Birmingham, Moda is the meeting place for the industry, not only presenting the largest cross-section of womenswear, menswear, accessories, footwear and lingerie under one roof, but also hosting a comprehensive free seminar programme with high-profile industry speakers, as well as networking events and live catwalks, making it the essential date on the show calendar and an event not to miss.

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MODA WOMAN Alongside key womenswear players, a wealth of new exhibitors will make their debut at the show, presenting the cream of mainstream fashion from across the globe. WWB takes a look at some of the brands on show.

— 01 KALI OREA Stand H28 At Kali Orea, you will find a vast range of dresses, tunics and shirts in vibrant colours, including red, pinks and green, alongside a base shade of black. The look is layered and encompasses a wealth of prints and textures, which are juxtaposed for an individual direction.

02 PICADILLY Stand J20 Canadian label Picadilly saw its UK launch last season and is returning to Moda to build on the success. The collection encompasses bright colours and vibrant prints, and features a range of novelty tops as its highlights. Flowing materials in mesh, crochet and rayon jersey make up the collection.

03 JENSEN Stand K10 Emerald, maroon and midnight blue are central colours at Jensen and can be found across multiple styles, from outerwear through knitwear to elegant party dresses. Textures and silhouettes are clean, though an emphasis on high-quality fabrics creates many stand-out looks.

04 ATELIER GARDEUR Stand I30 Atelier Gardeur presents a colour explosion this season, with juniper, violet, green, burgundy and deep blue key. Prints and patterns, as well as a mix of fabrics such as jacquards and brocades feature heavily, as do flock coatings and leather looks for an on-trend direction.

05 MARBLE Stand G11 A fully coordinated collection comes from Marble, and features knitwear, jeans and cotton basics as its core items. Luxurious faux fur styles are the highlights of the line, which is now available in sizes 10-22 due to popular demand.

Colours range from pumpkin through green to turquoise, red and purple.

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06 LILLY & ME Stand J31 At Lilly & Me, key trends for a/w 13 include winter florals, folklore and tapestry prints, as well as minimal geo styling. The range is aimed at providing stylish day to eveningwear, with key pieces including tea dresses, polyester jersey dresses and fitted heavy jersey with lace panelling for the party season.

07 FABER Stand H30 There are four fashion themes at Faber this season, including Westside, Hollywood, Beverly Hills and Downtown. Quilted jackets, blazers and elaborate knits form the signature across the trend stories, with colours ranging from blacks and blues to pink, purple and sand.

08 APANAGE Stand I38 Apanage’s dedicated dress collection, Femme, takes centre stage this season with figure-flattering silhouettes and materials such as stretch jersey at the core. Look out for graphic jacquards, bi-colour designs and dresses displaying neo-baroque opulence in the form of decorative elements and interesting jewel prints.

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09 POMODORO Stand I15 Prints once again dominate at Pomodoro, from animal prints through watercolour and floral graphics to stripes and geo shapes. The colour palette is muted but features accent shades such as red, purple and burnt orange.

10 STEILMANN Stand I10 Colour is a central theme at Steilmann this season, which combines elegant classics with contemporary and trend-inspired styles.

Slim-fit trousers are key, and are teamed with contrasting silhouettes such as jackets and blouses, while chic dresses also feature.

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01 CREENSTONE Stand H29 Creenstone’s a/w collection is all about translating catwalk trends into wearable, feminine outerwear. Classic shapes sit alongside more masculine looks, while embellishments and embroidery provide eye-catching details.

02 SEMPER Stand H38 Semper’s signature style is the shift dress, which is once again at the centre of the collection this season. The brand combines current trends with timeless elegance, with styles often enriched by eye-catching detailing or unusual material mixes. The colour palette varies from classic black to blackberry and fuchsia.

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03 CAPRI CLOTHING Stand F10 A multitude of textures, layers and drapes form the key ingredients at Capri Clothing. Prints are key, while predicted bestsellers include styles featuring desert stripes, textured spots, jacquard jerseys and crushed stripes. Colours include grey, olive, tan, aubergine, cherry red, winter lime and plum.

04 SIGNATURE Stand I11 Easy-to-wear styles that are relaxed and yet elegant come from Signature. Loose silhouettes dominate, with casual knits and long tunics key. Bold prints, particularly florals, round off the collection.

05 BEAUMONT Stand L50 A comprehensive collection of chic and versatile outerwear pieces comes from Beaumont. The silhouettes are playful, and a mix of materials characterise the styles. Look out for long, sturdy wax coats and faux fur jackets and coats, which are among the highlights.

04 06 ADC Stand I31 ADC is relaunching at Moda, following an absence from the market since a/w 11. The brand offers a contemporary 30-piece collection of dresses and separates in mainly black and tone-on-tone lace insertions.

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01 IMITZ Stand K10 Accent colours of coral and lime green steal the limelight at Imitz, sitting alongside neutral beiges, greys and khakis. Prints feature heavily, while a sporty and casual direction characterises many of the styles. Contrasting silhouettes offer many styling options.

02 ELISA CAVALETTI Stand L50 Priding itself on being made in Italy, Elisa Cavaletti offers a total look, including shirts, skirts and jackets with a high degree of attention to detail. There are three main colour stories in this season’s collection – the first is based around greens and earthy shades; the second is based on the feeling of wellbeing, with rose key; while the third is based on Gothic influences, with dark blues and golds making up the palette.

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03 DORIS STREICH Stand H39 Hot pink dominates as the main accent colour at Doris Streich this season, brightening up a background base of black, dark grey and blue.

Leather jackets, dresses and easy-to-wear tops form the basis of the collection.

04 TEXTIL KARTNER Stand K39 Detailing is key at Textil Kartner – tendril jacquard, intarsia and luxuriant floral all-over prints can be found alongside rivets, stones, glitter elements and lurex. The colour palette is dark and wintery, with purple, bottle, petrol, bordeaux and night blue key. Look out for a variety of knits, which are among the highlights.

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05 HAWICK KNITWEAR Stand K60 The collection includes traditional patterns such as Fair Isles, chunky cables and textures, which are given a contemporary feel through the use of scoop necklines and soft roll collars. There are three main colour stories, including a rouge and pink palette, with highlights of green, orange and turquoise.

06 GELCO Stand G50 Divided into an outerwear and coordinates range, Gelco once again presents an extensive and versatile collection. Outerwear is centred around subtle sporty elements, with combinations of colours, materials and styles key. Coordinates, meanwhile, are opulent and easy to mix and match.

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A NN B ALON MODA ITALIANA

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MODA UK, STAND G10 TEL: +44 (0) 161 428 0659 FAX: +44 (0) 161 491 0835 EMAIL: george@annbalon.com www.annbalon.com

84 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

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MODA WHITE Moda White focuses on contemporary brands with an individual signature and presents a host of international and home-grown labels. WWB sums up the brands not to miss.

— 01 01 CULTURE Stand J51 Culture is based around a trendy wardrobe that offers feminine clothing with fine details and wearability. The collections are designed to be mixed and matched, and there are many ways to style the range and achieve an individualised look. Dresses and cosy knits are key in the latest range and offer the perfect base for layering.

06 HAUBER Stand I40 A luxurious look dominates at Hauber this season, achieved through cosy knits, fur trims and leather jeans. There are two main colour themes in the collection – Power Play features a harmonious blend of gold, buttermilk and chocolate, while Style Candy uses dramatic shades of red and fuchsia against a backdrop of jet black.

02 THE SOHO FURRIER Stand H68 Making its Moda White debut, The Soho Furrier was created three seasons ago to give fur broader appeal and establish it as part of an everyday look. The latest collection features mink, rabbit and fox gilets, as well as jackets, wraps and accessories.

07 JAMES LAKELAND Stand H50 The James Lakeland collection sees a return to separates and neater silhouettes this season. A play of materials also characterises the range, with lace mixed in with block fabrics still going strong, while military mohair styles and long cardigans worn belted on top of fitted dresses are also among the highlights.

03 LATTE CLOTHING Stand H49 Latte’s latest collection focuses predominantly on stand-out tops, dresses, knitwear and outerwear, with rich and luxurious textures at the core. The brand has established itself with a quirky and edgy signature, with vibrant colours such as reds, cobald, greens and mustard adding a striking touch.

04 MASAI Stand H41 A newcomer to Moda, Danish label Masai features a range of styles that are perfect for layering, and flatter a diversity of figures and sizes. Loose tunics, long jackets and soft knitwear are key pieces, with oversized silhouettes teamed with more figure-hugging contrasts such as leggings creating a play of shapes and textures.

05 PAUSE CAFÉ Stand J41 A regular exhibitor at Moda White, Pause Café’s collection offers stand-out pieces for women with individual style. Dresses, tunics and coats are among the highlights of this season’s range, complemented with a colour scheme of bright red, ruby, red-orange combinations, as well as purple, pink and yellow.

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08 DESERIOUS Stand J61 Dutch label Deserious is the brainchild of designer Joost Balthazar Onderwaater, who created the brand while living in New York City.

The trouser line therefore takes key influences from the melting pot of cultures that is the Big Apple, with each pair of trousers cut and handstitched from highest-quality cotton before adding special dyeing effects to achieve individual looks.

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09 SATHIA Stand K48 Look out for geometric 60s style and punk influences running through the collection at Sathia. Dresses are among the predicted bestsellers, with the colour scheme encompassing red, black, ocra and earthy tones.

10 ALL BEAUTIFUL Stand J48 All Beautiful offers a piece of Paris, with typical French flair and quirky detailing running through the versatile collection. The theme for this season is based on the love story of Alice & Barnabe, who go on travels and adventures across the South of France.

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PREVIEW —

MODA ACCESSORIES WWB takes a look at some of the highlights at the show this season.

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01 HEALTHY BACK BAG Stand O31 Defining its new collection through three main trends – Vivid Naturals (pictured), Poetic Pastels and Hot Tropics – the Healthy Back Bag Company returns to Moda with an extensive range of new finishes across its signature teardrop shape, which distributes weight evenly for healthier back. The brand also introduces a Sporty Vintage line for the new season.

02 MCBURN Stand N15 Offering a range of fabric and knitted hats and ear muffs for both men and women, accessories label McBurn reveals its a/w 13 collection at Moda Accessories. The German label is specifically targeting UK retailers as it seeks to expand its global presence.

03 STEPHEN COLLINS Stand M11 A range of belts by designer Stephen Collins will be exhibited on the Dents stand at this season’s Moda Accessories. Revealing a range of stylish waist-cinchers, the brand will unveil both slim and wide styles for the new season.

04 MOORE & MOORE Stand O20 This autumn season sees Moore & Moore enter a bygone era of glamour and sophistication with its collection of stoles, hooded fur capes and retro-chic boleros, designed for winter weddings as well as special occasions. The brand also welcomes three modern classic silhouettes into its hat collection.

05 SUZANNE BETTLEY Stand N40 Suzanne Bettley focuses on stylish, co-ordinating soft accessories for a/w 13, combining the latest trends in a new range of yarns and fabrics. Cosy, chunky wool blend knit hats, hand warmers, ponchos, scarves and snoods are all available in a range of new colours, designs and textures.

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06 JUNK SHOP Stand 4D New exhibitor Junk Shop enters the wholesale sector this season, building upon its presence as a sustainable fashion retailer in Manchester’s Didsbury district. The brand unveils its Luna collection at Moda Accessories, revealing a range inspired by the great outdoors featuring animal, bird and insect silhouettes.

07 CHROME Stand SE5 Making its debut at sister exhibition Moda Footwear, Chrome arrives at the show with an extensive collection of accessories targeting the trend-aware biker. Established in 1985, the brand creates bags, shoes and accessories designed to stand up to daily city living both on and off the bike.

08 DENTS Stand M11 Moda Accessories regular Dents returns to the exhibition with its latest collection of accessories for men and women. Comprising bags, gloves, scarves and hats, the latest collection features all the heritage hallmarks of the label, which was established in 1777 and still makes its products in the UK. 09 ALICE HANNAH Stand N24 The London-based knitwear and accessories designer takes inspiration from the natural world for the new season, incorporating poppy bloom and tropical bird silhouettes into its latest styles for s/s 13. The brand makes all of its products in the UK, and unveils a new vintage vibe across its range for the new season.

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10 GABRIELLA Stand N11 Statement structure is key for Gabriella this season as the handbag label builds upon its position as a successful UK label, driven by contemporary trends in the wider fashion industry.

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MO MODA LINGERIE LINGER ERIE Running alongside Moda Woman, Moda Lingerie is the go-to destination for womenswear retailers looking to diversify their merchandise. WWB sums up what’s in store.

— 01 HUIT LINGERIE Stand C30 Huit’s latest collections feature luxurious lace, bright bolds and geometric shapes, with sheer geometric lace taking inspiration from the 80s dance scene. Huit also debuts an F cup for a/w 13.

The half-cup bra style – available from a B to F cup – is designed to offer both style and substance.

02 TRIUMPH Stand D10 Amid its a/w 13 offering, Triumph presents the third season of its Body Make-Up collection, featuring a new lace fabric that is invisible under clothing. Available in a wide range of colours, favourite styles span from under wire padded bras to under wire push-up bras and strings, tai panties or hipster briefs with matching shirts.

03 UN: USUAL Stand C11A Un: usual by Felina will present an a/w 13 collection that has, among various other developments, met the needs of women with large cup sizes. A new NOS range alongside four new fashion ranges and additional colours for the two existing basic ranges are also available.

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06 EMPREINTE Stand D42 New ranges this season include Rose (pictured), which captures the trend for seductive lingerie in a new vintage style influenced by 50s corsetry.

Featuring elegant cuts and glamorous trims, fabrics are lightweight, sheer and soft, with embroidered tulle using a striking stitch reflecting the art of French tapestry. The colour palette in this range extends from black to orchid.

07 SIMONE PÉRÈLE Stand B40 Simone Pérèle’s premium lingerie range mixes classic elegance with a glam-rock inspired edge for a/w 13. Four new collections feature for the season – Folies, Tattoo, Diva and Queen (pictured) – the latter of which exudes rock-star allure with graphic patterns and hints of satin.

08 FANTASIE LINGERIE Stand C30 Inspired by Art Deco and the 20s, highlights for a/w 13 include the entire collection being trimmed with copper and black lace trims, double-tied bow detail and a hint of sparkle. Key pieces include the UW bra with side support available from a D to H cup.

04 BJORN BORG Stand D60 Bjorn Borg’s a/w 13 women’s collection sees the development of the Love All Lace range. The existing hotpant and string are now available in a feminine stripe with the same fit, made in soft lace. New products this season include a range of lace vests in a matching colour palette and leggings featuring “doodles” – the brand’s inspiration for a/w 13.

09 MASQUERADE Stand C21 Masquerade by Panache Lingerie is set to showcase a darker, sexier and trend-led range this season. Taking inspiration from the a/w 13 fashion catwalks – specifically couture styling in layered contrast colours – highlights include rich embroideries and laces, with styles available from a 28-inch back and from a D to H cup.

05 GOSSARD Stand B12 This season, Gossard unveils an a/w collection combining modern, flirty prints with classic luxurious opulence and vintage styles with contemporary trends. Drawing on its 100 years of lingerie-making heritage, Gossard’s focus is on style, support and seductive styling. Alongside new designs, new looks will be launched for proven favourites Retrolution and EgoBoost.

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PREVIEW —

MODA FOOTWEAR 01

The brands to look out for at the UK’s largest footwear exhibition.

— 01 VITTI LOVE Stand R9 Launched at Moda Footwear a year ago, Vitti Love returns for its third season with a range of new constructions, including two new fashion wedges, classic boots in two heel heights and a line of super-flexible “glove construction” boots.

Made in the brand’s Elche factory, each shoe from the Spanish label features leather linings.

02 BIRKENSTOCK Stand S38 Bringing almost 240 years of heritage into the contemporary footwear arena, Birkenstock unveils one of its most comprehensive collections to date at this season’s Moda Footwear. The latest offer comprises boots and shoes manufactured in line with the German label’s commitment to comfort.

03 T.U.K Stand SE17 Born in England and raised in California, T.U.K is a San Diego footwear brand whose ethos is to design creative styles with a gritty edge. Inspired by the underground, T.U.K targets bands, music fanatics and individuals with eclectic tastes. This season sees the label arrive at Select with a collection ranging from traditional classics to modern innovations.

04 PETER KAISER Stand P38 German footwear label Peter Kaiser celebrates 175 years this year and the brand returns to Moda Footwear with a new collection of shoes designed to carry the wearer from the office to beyond without any compromise on style.

Ranging from over-the-knee boots to pumps, the latest autumn collection comprises a range of styles in goat suede and nappa leather.

05 SIXTYSEVEN Stand Y13 Making its Moda debut this season, footwear label Sixtyseven aims to transcend the age demographic for the woman who is forever young at heart. Crafting quality materials into original designs, the Spanish label focuses on clean, simple silhouettes with a level of detailing that makes each style unique.

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06 ROCKPORT Stand U5 Rockport returns to Moda Footwear with three key trends for men and women for a/w 13.

Compositions represents a humanist retreat to simplicity, while Proper Eccentric’s design moves away from conventionalism and What’s Next incorporates technological advances.

07 SKECHERS Stand W11 Skechers focuses on its Relaxed Fit category for a/w 13, offering casual and fashion-forward footwear for both men and women. Key features within the range include a memory foam foot bed, a lightweight frame and a roomier fit.

Boots are also a focus for the new season, with hidden wedge styles in particular tipped to be key for the brand.

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08 ROCKET DOG Stand W10 Californian footwear and accessories label Rocket Dog channels a 19th-century vibe for a/w 13, taking inspiration from 30s London.

Lace-up boots, buckles and studs combined with delicate florals are the key themes across the collection, which comprises a wide range of silhouettes, from flat pumps to boots.

09 BRAKEBURN Stand V11/S10 Brakeburn’s footwear offer focuses on the brand’s athletic and EVA sole ranges for a/w 13, bringing its strongest spring styles into the autumn season with shearling linings, felt fabric uppers and a vibrant new colour palette.

Elsewhere, in the wider apparel range, the brand welcomes the arrival of technical outerwear for the new autumn season.

10 LISA KAY Stand T10 Block heels and block colours are key for Lisa Kay this season. Crafted from Italian calf leather, suede and high-shine leather, colours centre on burnt orange, mustard, purple and bordeaux.

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95 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

PROFILE —

WHAT’S ON AT MODA This season’s Moda is packed with live events including retail-led seminars from industry experts, inspiring catwalk shows highlighting the latest trends from across the halls and unrivalled networking opportunities all taking place throughout the three-day show.

Lights, Catwalk, Action

MONDAY NIGHT DOUBLE AT MODA

Don’t miss the dedicated catwalks taking place every day of the show. Brands including Gino Cerruti, Murek, Dynasty, Genese and Crystal Breeze will present key evening and occasionwear trends. And don’t miss James Lakeland, Elisa Cavaletti, Toggi, Marble, Hauber and Carol C Collections showcase the hottest womenswear looks for a/w 13.

Retailers will have the choice of two social events at this February’s show.

Celebrate the season in style with a VIP three course dinner at Hampton Manor or enjoy a drinks reception, premium BBQ and DJ in the relaxed surroundings of The Beeches. Both venues are within easy reach of the NEC Birmingham.

          

Make the most of the show by downloading Moda’s free app. Find all the brands you want to see and stay up-to-date with all the latest show information right at your fingertips. Download from your app store or via moda-uk.co.uk.

CATWALK SCHEDULE HALL 17 Sunday 17 February 10.00 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 11.15 Fashion catwalk 12.45 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 13.30 Fashion catwalk 15.00 Evening & occasionwear catwalk 16.00 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 18.00 Fashion catwalk & drinks

With an additional catwalk theatre in Hall 20, there will be even more insightful business advice than ever before from a handpicked line-up of industry experts.

Highlights include: Monday 18 February, 12pm, Hall 17 Warren Knight, CEO, Gloople

Sunday 17 February, 2.15pm, Hall 17 Eric Musgrave, consultant

Sunday 17 February, 2.15pm, Hall 20 Kate Hardcastle, business expert, Insight with Passion

Kate Hardcastle will teach you how to create a business vision around your customer and why customer understanding can develop your sales, strategy and market position.

In short, this seminar will give you the most economical and successful marketing campaign you will ever have.

MODA ON THE MOVE

Hampton Manor tickets are priced at £40pp inc VAT and The Beeches party tickets are priced at £20pp inc VAT. To book, email caroline@moda-uk.co.uk or call +44 (0)1484 846069.

BOOST YOUR BUSINESS KNOWLEDGE WITH DOUBLE THE BUSINESS ADVICE

Customer at the heart

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Onward and upward: winning strategies for independent fashion retailers for 2013 Eric Musgrave chats to independent fashion retailers Lyn Wiltshire of Loula Lingerie and Natalie Peters of Amabo Boutique, who will share the secrets of their success. Offering an informal discussion as well as practical advice to independent fashion retailers on how to improve their business.

The importance of integrating social media into your business Social media can bring incredible financial value to your organisation.

This seminar will teach you how to interact with your online target audience across multiple social-media channels. Integrated properly, you can build a tribe of followers who will actively support and teach you about your brand.

Free to all visitors the seminars take place every day of the show. Other highlights include: The science of moving numbers

Spend a lifetime in our shoes

Sunday 17 February, 12pm, Hall 17, Dennis Reid, chairman, Retail Performance Specialists

Monday 18 February, 12pm, Hall 20, Debbie Paver, TV presenter and home shopping buyer, Pavers

Ten reasons why ecommerce will always be in fashion Tuesday 19 February, 1pm, Hall 17, Nick Pratt, managing director and Ray Buckler head of business development, Liquidshop

Visual matters Tuesday 19 February, 11am, Hall 20, Lynda Murray, MD and founder and Phill Hill, creative director, International Visual

Monday 18 February 10.00 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 11.00 Fashion catwalk 13.00 Evening & occasionwear catwalk 14.00 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 16.00 Fashion catwalk 17.00 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk Tuesday 19 February 10.00 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 12.00 Fashion catwalk 13.45 Evening & occasionwear catwalk 14.30 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk HALL 20 Sunday 17 February 10.00 Urban & contemporary catwalk 11.15 Men’s tailoring & lifestyle catwalk 12.45 Footwear & accessories catwalk 13.30 Urban & contemporary catwalk 15.00 Men’s tailoring & lifestyle catwalk 16.00 Footwear & accessories catwalk 18.00 Urban & contemporary catwalk & drinks Monday 18 February 10.00 Men’s tailoring & lifestyle catwalk 11.00 Footwear & accessories catwalk 13.00 Urban & contemporary catwalk 14.00 Men’s tailoring & lifestyle catwalk 16.00 Footwear & accessories catwalk 17.00 Urban & contemporary catwalk Tuesday 19 February 10.00 Urban & contemporary catwalk 12.00 Men’s tailoring & lifestyle catwalk 13.45 Footwear & accessories catwalk

96 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

PREVIEW —

FLIP WWB takes a look at some of the women’s collections available at urban, street, denim and lifestyle trade show Flip, taking place on 17-19 February at the NEC, Birmingham.

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M.O.D MONKEE GENES Established in 2006, Monkee Genes is the first and only jeans label to have accreditations from The Soil Association and the Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS).

The eco and ethically conscientious brand offers a variety of innovative fits and styles for women, including the Supa-Skinny jean with a curved waistband that moulds into the nape of the back, available in a variety of materials including denim and sateen. Other styles include Skin Fit Jeans, Skinny Jeans, Chinos, Flares and a Slim Fit jean. Stand FL74 —

Key pieces and trends for a/w 13 include sweaters and cardigans with open constructions as well as flight and bomber jackets. Skinny colour denims are still popular, prints feature on trousers, and rivets and spikes are seen across garments. The big fabric trends are Imitation Denim, an elastic fabric that looks like denim but has the properties of a knitted fabric, and colour nap denims in new cuts. Stand FL55 — O’NEILL FOOTWEAR The a/w 13 footwear collection from Californian brand O’Neill includes a wide selection of styles for women with a focus on comfort and style. The brand is introducing four different series to the women’s collection, with each one offering unique styles and tailored designs.

Cali, Casual, Capture and Adventure are at the forefront of the collection. The relaxed nature of O’Neill is prevalent throughout the a/w 13 footwear offering, including styles featuring surf attributes. Stand FL58 — LOWLIFE Lowlife has been a key player in the global belt market for over a decade, with many products being unisex in design. Offering accessories for an eclectic, modern alternative lifestyle has seen the brand build up a worldwide underground fanbase that includes musicians, skaters, snowboarders and BMX bikers. Stand FL44 —

GARCIA The inspiration for this season’s a/w collection is based on the brand’s Italian home, with themes including The Motorist, The Travellers and The Love Story. Key silhouettes for women include allover print soft padded inner jackets and denim jackets with black coated sleeves. Special details can be found in knits and various mixes of wovens and knits. Stand FL53 —

URBAN BEACH Among its a/w 13 offer, Urban Beach will be launching a new line of footwear at Flip this season. Catering for women, men and children, the brand’s new collection of winter technical apparel comprises jackets, salopettes, soft shells, base layers and polar fleeces as well as accessories such as beanie hats and backpacks. Bold colours and attention to detail are key, as are features such as quick drying fabrics, fully taped seams and mp3 jacket compartments. Stand FL84 —

98 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

RETAIL

SHO ME SHOW THE MONEY Implementing an Open To Buy plan can be the key to successful and profitable retailing, says business consultant Thierry Bayle. Here he outlines the key principles and how they can be applied to independent fashion boutiques.

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F

orgive the direct question, but do you know exactly how much you’ve got to spend on stock for the new season? Yes, I’m talking about sales forecasting. Most of the larger fashion chains and major department stores use a forecasting approach called an Open To Buy plan. There is no reason why independent retailers shouldn’t use it too - in fact, many of you already do, for the very good reason that it helps to ensure cash flow, profitability and customer traffic for your boutique.

The Open To Buy (OTB) plan is a unique and powerful buying and merchandising tool that uses your stock and sales data and creates questions and answers (ie solutions) on every aspect of running a profitable retail business: sales, marketing, buying, customer service, expenses. It is geared towards improving cash flow and creating growth opportunities.

If cash flow is tight and you do not understand why and how to fix it then you need an OTB plan. Let’s analyse the different aspects of the OTB and how it applies to your business: OTB starts with an accurate sales forecast that breaks your business down into micro-shops for each class of goods you sell. The point is, the rate of sale for blouses might be very different for that of dresses, which again is different from jeans. Your point-of-sale system should help you break your business down into these mini-businesses and each one needs a forecast.

All too often, boutiques plan their business by “buying what we sold last year or last season”, or “we expect to be up two per cent”. These are not forecasts, they are wild guesses and can lead to lost sales and missed opportunities. If you buy only what you sold last year, then the most you can sell is what you sold last year, or even less. Why? Because you are bringing in less stock to capture the growth and you will lose sales.

If you forecast your sales by saying, “We will be even with last year,” then you are making the mistake of generalising all your micro-shops into one number. That means you’ll miss sales in the classes that could grow, and you’ll have too much stock in the classes that are declining.

Your business’s forecast should be broken down by month and adjusted by season. It should accurately represent the sales of a/w clothing, but should also identify when a/w stops selling and s/s takes over.

Reliable forecasting does take into account what you did last year, but that is not the most important factor. Forecasting must also take into account current trends, both inside and outside your business. We produce accurate forecasting because we look into what is happening in a business over the past 60-90 days. OTB forecasts should react properly when new trends emerge and enable you to take advantage of those trends by buying into them or getting out of them if they are trending down and squeezing out as much cash as you can.

We spend a huge amount of time focusing on our sales forecasts.

Good OTB systems do that, because it’s a key part of planning your stock.

Unfortunately, it’s not the sort of thing that’s easy to do for your own boutique. Big retailers have very expensive systems, however, independent retailers can buy forecasting services more cost effectively from consultants who can bring that technology and/or expertise to their shops.

So, what do you buy and how much should you spend? If the forecast says you should be selling £1,000 worth of tops in March, it’s not just a question of putting £1,000 worth of tops out. You need to put a

sufficient level of stock on the floor in order to offer a good choice. Knowing how much stock to put out to achieve your sales forecast is, of course, the key to making money. Too little and you’ll miss sales, but too much and you’ll end up having to discount to move the goods.

So, how do you know?

You apply a stock-to-sales ratio, which is the amount of pounds in stock you need to have available in order to reach your sales goal.

For example, if in jackets and coats you are operating on a three stock-to-sales ratio, that means you need £3,000 of stock to reach your £1,000 sales target.

Once you have your sales forecast, you then determine the proper stock-to-sales ratio. That will tell you how much stock you need to have on hand to meet your sales forecast with maximum profitability.

Again, there should be a different stock-to-sales ratio for each class of goods. By determining how much stock you need to have on hand, you will know how much you need to buy, month after month, to achieve the best level of stock for your business.

If you do this, class by class, and diligently follow that plan (adjusting where necessary), you will have cash. Retail businesses we work with that follow the plan have cash. Those we speak to who do not follow the plan run out of cash and usually fail. It is that dramatic a difference.

Of course there are lots of nuances, such as achieving the proper profit margins, planning your discounts/markdowns and ensuring your stock is fresh and new. Remember you need to bring fresh goods every month. The OTB plan should become the centrepiece of evaluating your business.

In independent fashion boutiques it usually falls to the same person to buy and plan. Better retailers realise more objective planning will get them higher profits, that is why there are external OTB planning companies (like mine) for fashion boutiques. The good ones bring a vast array of knowledge and expertise that helps them to grow businesses. Most of all, it should be fun and you should enjoy what you are doing. Planning like this should help to make retailing enjoyable and rewarding. Get it right, and you’ll be as happy as the customers walking through your shop door. Happy retailing!

Thierry Bayle is md of business consultancy Global Fashion Management Management One. Call 020 8576 6233 www.globalfashionmanagement.com or thierry@globalfashionmanagement.com / @retailfashion www.twitter.com/retailfashion.

101 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

NEWS —

EVENING & OCCASIONWEAR NEWS

NEW NAME FOR GILL HARVEY AT MEDICI

DQ FROM BALBIER-WYATT LAUNCHES

KATHY HILTON MAKES UK DEBUT After a successful debut in the US, new label Kathy Hilton for Mon Cheri is now set to launch in Europe, initially at Moda Woman in Birmingham this month, followed by BBEH in Harrogate in March. The fashion-led line, designed in collaboration with Mon Cheri, aims to be affordable, but still stands out for all the right reasons with chic, figure-flattering designs and little touches for extra glamour. Encompassing a mixture of cocktail dresses, A-line gowns both short and long, some with sleeves, some sleeveless in a variety of colourways, fabrics include jersey, chiffons, lace, tulle and silk.

Having proved popular with Hilton’s daughters, US socialites and businesswomen Paris and Nicky Hilton, the brand is now looking to repeat this success in the UK. —

DQ is a versatile new collection of occasionwear from the Balbier-Wyatt group. With classic dresses in contemporary colours and designs, more modern on-trend styles and show-stopping gowns as seen on the red carpet, the collection aims to cater for every occasion possible. With over 35 styles, the range has been created with fun, fresh, playful designs in mind, encompassing everything from short flirty numbers through boho-style chiffon to long flowing gowns and sexy backless styles. The collection can be viewed by appointment only at the brand’s Manchester showroom.

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L’ATELIER’S SECOND SEASON TRIUMPH Reaching its second season, L’Atelier by the house of Frank Saul is presenting another contemporary, stylish collection, created with the fashion-conscious woman in mind.

Specially designed for Mother of the Bride, but wearable for other social occasions, it boasts a collection full of interesting details such as sequin trims, metallic brocades, silk pleats with scallop edging and delicate lace. The colour palette is opulent for a/w 13, featuring dramatic monochrome contrasts, and pink with black, while also comprising more understated nuances including dusky pink, pearl grey, truffle and platinum.

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For a/w 13, the well-known After Six and Invite Collections by Medici have been rebranded Gill Harvey after their designer. Harvey has brought together her years of experience within the industry to create the new collection of covetable evening dresses and occasionwear. Taking inspiration from the golden age of fashion, the vintage-inspired range is the epitome of grown-up glamour, and includes an effortless collection of jersey dresses with decadent detailing.

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MODEL BEHAVIOUR AT JOHN CHARLES John Charles has snapped up model Angela Dunn to showcase its a/w 13 range. A well-known figure in the industry, featuring in campaigns for the likes of Yves St Laurent, Chanel, Dunn models a selection of sophisticated eveningwear looks for the brand.

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102 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

EVENING AND OCCASIONWEAR TRENDS —

John Charles

STRAIGHT LACED

Linea Raffaeli

Autumn/winter 2013 sees the return of dramatic lace to eveningwear in a host of colours, from classic black, nudes with black overlays and eye-catching teals and blues. Pencil styles in knee-grazing lengths will be available from the likes of Michaela Louisa and John Charles, while full-length glamour is provided by occasionwear favourites Dynasty and Gino Cerutti. Taking a different approach is DQ by Balbier Wyatt and Gina Bacconi, who both updated column dresses with softly pleated fishtails for a retro prom look. Meanwhile, Mascara Pour la Femme is focusing on the feminine silhouette presenting figure-hugging, curve-enhancing dresses with lace accents on side and back panels. A defined waist is key to achieving this iconic hourglass silhouette and therefore materials such as jersey, Lycra and viscose are the perfect ingredients for making lace look sexy this season.

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103 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

EVENING AND OCCASIONWEAR TRENDS —

LOOK OUT FOR — Brands at Moda this season include John Charles, Stand E10 and Dynasty, Stand F14 —

Dress Code by Vero Mia DQ by Balbier Wyatt

Gina Bacconi

Mascara Pour la Femme

Michaela Louisa

Gino Cerutti

LOOK OUT FOR — Brands at Moda this season include Michaela Louisa , stand G30, Mascara, Stand G14 and Gino Cerutti, Stand E14 —

Dynasty

104 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

EVENING AND OCCASIONWEAR TRENDS —

LOOK OUT FOR

Dress Code

by Vero Mia

— John Charles will be showing at Moda this season, Stand E10 —

Cartise

Ruby Ray Vera Mont

John Charles

SHADES OF GREY Gunmetal grey is a shade ticking all the trend boxes this season for sophisticated occasionwear. At Dress Code by Vero Mia, gunmetal greys are also offset with soft rose gold, latte, nude and amethyst, while Vera Mont plays with mirror embellishment and mirror prints across a metallic and jewel toned palette. Here, new cocktail combinations such as embellished jumpsuits or slim pants with new asymmetric tunics are set to turn heads. Sea-mist prints, meanwhile, set the tone for John Charles, with shimmering greys complemented by rosewood reds, plum and teal highlight colours. Another label hoping to make an impact this season with a luxurious colour palette is Cartise, presenting its Rendez Vous collection of flattering, contouring fits and intricate details headed up by designer Amy Wu. —

Do you stock PROM and EVENINGWEAR? Scarlett Evenings Ltd are proud to be an independant UK owned and operated company, offering our stockists the highest levels of service.

We listen to our customers and work with you in partnership. New stockist enquiries are always welcome.

• 2013 collection dresses now available from immediate stock on 24 hour delivery • Clearance section with dresses from an amazing £20.00 • 24/7 Online ordering system with instant ordering and stock allocation – even when we’re closed!

Orders and Enquiries: 01942 492492 or email sales@scarlettevenings.co.uk www.scarlettevenings.co.uk Scarlett Evenings Ltd, Taylor St, Wigan WN3 4BS

106 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

EVENING AND OCCASIONWEAR TRENDS —

Gina Bacconi

VM by Vera Mont Carmen Melero

ROYAL AFFAIR Regal purple tones take centre stage across eveningwear this season in both full-length gowns and shorter party frocks. Carmen Melero in particular is drawn to purples through to lavenders with accents of silver, gold and cerise. Reminiscent of the style of Chanel and Audrey Hepburn, these new dress shapes in wool mixes are teamed with neat small jackets. Gina Bacconi and Michaela Louisa present similarly grown-up pieces paired with small jackets and flattering ruching and drape details. One-shoulder designs are also on-trend this season with styles from DQ by Balbier Wyatt, Dynasty, Kathy Hilton, plus-size label Viviana and diffusion line VM by Vera Mont. Soft pleats, draping, mini-peplums and bejewelled or ornate beaded details all ensure these designs stand out from the crowd. Meanwhile, sweetheart necklines soften young fashion looks from promwear label Crystal Breeze and contemporary dress brand Ruby Ray. —

107 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

EVENING AND OCCASIONWEAR TRENDS —

LOOK OUT FOR — Dynasty and sister label Viviana at Moda this season, Stand F14 —

Dynasty Crystal Breeze

LOOK OUT FOR — Brands at Moda this season include Kathy Hilton, Stand F10 and Carla Ruiz, Stand F21 —

Michaela Louisa

Ruby Ray

Kathy Hilton Viviana DQ by Balbier Wyatt

108 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

EVENING AND OCCASIONWEAR TRENDS —

Gino Cerutti Crystal Breeze

Viviana

LOOK OUT FOR — Dynasty and sister label Viviana at Moda this season, Stand F14 and Gino Cerutti, Stand E14 —

Ruby Ray VM by Vera Mont

SHINE ON

Dynasty

For full-on glamour this season, look no further than shimmering sequin designs, sure to up the ante of your in-store occassionwear offer. Particular fans of the look are plus-size label Viviana and sister brand Dynasty, who will present pieces in tones of scarlet red, purple and blue, plus classic black and nude. Showing at Moda, the collection will be extended with jersey sculptured silhouettes using faux-leather panelling, adding yet more drama to this autumn’s key cocktail looks. Over at Ruby Ray, the offer is a similar affair with both short and long gowns in midnight blue and emerald. Key details here include exposed backs, keyhole details and figure-hugging silhouettes. Meanwhile, VM by Vera Mont and prom label Crystal Breeze both choose gold and bronze tones to show off sequins to their best advantage.

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PURE 10th - 12th February Stand S 48 MODA WOMAN 17th - 19th February Stand I 49

Email: jeremy@cates.co.uk Web: www.twodanes.dk/retail

 Tatefashion

Gerard Burke fashions

64b Roseville Road, Leeds Tel: 01132 459064 Email: tatefashions@hotmail.com

Unit 7, Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24 Tel: 00353 14295709 Email: gerardburkefashions@gmail.com

Email: info@nasscfashions.co.uk

Agents Scotland Dot Speed Tel: 07787115062

Midlands Adrienne Crawford Tel: 07870198189

South East Mike Trott Tel: 07802701163

North UK Natalie Tate Tel: 07900926943

South Wales Jamie Williams Tel: 07831800699

Daisy May only South East Andrew Williams Tel: 07767473295

We look forward to showing you the collection in our showrooms or at Moda, Stand F30

1110 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

BEST OF BREAD & BUTTER LAST MONTH’S BREAD & BUTTER MAY HAVE BEEN LEANER, BUT IT STILL PACKED A PUNCH WITH A HOST OF INTERNATIONAL LABELS ACROSS YOUNG AND CONTEMPORARY FASHION, STREETWEAR, URBANWEAR AND DENIM. WWB TAKES A LOOK AT SOME OF THE HERO PIECES FOUND ACROSS THE COLLECTIONS. —

111 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

AIGLE French brand Aigle impressed with its cosy quilted parkas and jackets, including this silver grey version with detachable fur collar.

BARBOUR Having returned to B&B with its womenswear collection, Barbour displayed both its contemporary and heritage collections, with this elegant coat with leather detailing leading the way in the style stakes.

CAMEL ACTIVE Lifestyle brand Camel Active showed off its debut womenswear collection, which was well-received thanks to high quality and clever detailing, such as this leather jacket.

GLAMOROUS Animal motifs came in all shapes and guises this season, and Glamorous picked up on the trend with this cute bird print blouse, which was pretty and bang on trend.

NOA NOA Danish brand Noa Noa’s collection continued its bohemian signature, with dainty prints and a romantic colour scheme dominating across the range. Highlights included pretty dresses layered with gilets and chunky cardigans.

SELECTED A rock-chick vibe ran through the collection at Selected, with leather jackets, boyfriend blazers and oversized cardies key. This studded top rounded off the collection and picked up the trend for “heavy metal” embellishments.

SOAKED IN LUXURY The Danish label is gaining international recognition thanks to its feminine and yet relaxed styling.

The collection oozed a luxe look throughout, with this jacket playing on the trend for grown-up chic.

TURNOVER Trousers are a focal point this season and were highlights across many a collection. Turnover presented a particularly strong contender with this flocked version in trendy 7/8th length and skinny shape.

TWIST & TANGO Twist & Tango’s sequin pants played on the trend for glitz and bling, making them the perfect going out item. Teamed with one of its glam vests, the label impressed with a wearable version.

UCLA UCLA has been putting more emphasis on its womenswear side recently, with more feminine and fitted silhouettes characterising the latest offerings of the streetwear label. This cheeky sweatshirt sums up the new direction.

WOOLRICH Outerwear is a particular strength of Woolrich, however the brand’s ready-to-wear also scored highly this season. Simple shapes were offset by a wealth of rich textures and fabrics, such as this luxe check dress.

YUMI Birds feature across many a collection and style, but Yumi’s oversized owl jumper was up there with the best versions around and leads the way for plenty more animal-inspired embellishments and prints across the collection.

112 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

RETAIL DIARY Bath is a good city for independents, so it seemed a good venue for us when my husband Henry and I decided to open our own store three years ago. We are in The Corridor, an arcade of boutiques, so collectively we form a destination for consumers who want to shop in independents.

I had been a store manager for around 10 years with multiples such as Phase Eight and East, while Henry had worked the same length of time managing a jeans store in Cornwall. We decided that having a women’s jeans boutique was a good idea because everyone wears jeans.

Fashionable mums and women in their 20s-plus are our core customers. Our bestselling brand by far is Levi’s because of its “curved system” for women; the fits are spot on. We are also doing well with Lee, especially the skinny Scarlett style, and Pepe is strong for us with its more obviously fashion cuts and washes. Our price points are mainly around £80-£95. We feel this is perfect for us as customers are paying for the fit and quality of the jean without breaking the bank. Everything else we sell is picked to be worn with jeans, so it’s mainly tops, but we do sell a few dresses. Pepe has unusual dresses and gorgeous leather jackets. Dutch brands Fransa and St Tropez do well for us with their pretty, wearable and well-priced clothes.

When we were starting up, controlling costs was so important, which is why we joined FAB. It had the best transaction rates by far for debit and credit cards, and making savings on such are crucial to a young business. As we have seen VAT and business rates go up, FAB’s deals are more important than ever. Although we are a small business, it’s good to keep up with retail law and new offers through the FAB newsletters and website. Although the economic conditions have affected our projections, we have been doing very well since we opened and have improved each year.

Our previous retail experience has been invaluable. Three months ago, we decided to add menswear to our offer. Our female customers had been asking why we didn’t sell men’s jeans so they could bring along, or buy for, their partners or sons. After half a season of trading, we are encouraged by how it’s developing.

FORUM —

RETAIL FORUM

The latest news from the industry —

THE SPACE POPS UP AT AUSTIQUE

© Gareth Davies

SELFRIDGES UNVEILS THE WEST GALLERY

London boutique Austique will play host to Paris concept store The Space in a pop-up shop during London Fashion Week, combining the two boutiques styles. The Space is dedicated to art and fashion and is a creative hub that hosts emerging Parisian designers and international artists. Julia Van Hagwen and Tallulah Rufus Isaacs, the faces behind The Space, will be in-store to give expert advice and showcase a selection of s/s 13 collections including Parker, Camilla & Marc and lifestyle brands such as Twins for Peace, Claus Porto and Nina Peter.

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Selfridges recently celebrated the opening of The West Gallery, part of its womenswear designer galleries in its London flagship store.

The West Gallery features collections from international designers including Paul Smith, DVF, Max Mara, Hugo Boss, Ralph Lauren and Jil Sander. The department store has also welcomed Savile Row tailor Henry Rose, who joins the team as its tailor in residence, creating made-to-measure women’s suits as part of the Selfridges Bespoke service. Designer Emilia Wickstead has also signed up to Selfridges Bespoke, with a 14-piece collection that can be personalised by colour, fabric and fit.

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Jo Yates co-owns The Jeans Boutique in Bath www.fashionassociation ofbritain.co.uk HAVE YOU OPENED A NEW STORE, LAUNCHED A TRANSACTIONAL WEBSITE, ORGANISED AN EVENT OR HAVE ANY OTHER IN-STORE NEWS? THEN LET US KNOW BY GETTING IN TOUCH AT CAREY@RAS-PUBLISHING.COM.

113 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

FORUM —

WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR MOST MEMORABLE CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE?

MARIANNA LAUNCHES ONLINE SHOP Ipswich indie Marianna Boutique has recently launched its new online store to complement its existing offer and extend its reach beyond Suffolk.

The online shop carries brands such as J Brand, Rutzou, By Malene Birger, Crea Concept and Ann Louise Roswald. “We chat online with our customers about standout trends and gorgeous combinations from our collections, but many of them live and work across the UK, so we wanted to throw away the constraints of opening hours if they can’t get to our shop as often as they’d like,” says Emma Lloyd, owner of Marianna. “The layout had to be clear and inspirational, so doing business with us online was a pleasurable experience; in the same way as it is in our bricks-and-mortar store.”

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We ask four retailers this month’s hot question EMILY WEBSTER Owner, Emmie Boutique, Hurstpierpoint

— “When Jodie Kidd visited our store. At the time, she was doing Strictly Come Dancing and was so busy that she had left her Christmas shopping until the last minute. She rushed in on Christmas Eve in a complete spin, sweetly asking for our help. We had such fun helping her choose her presents.”

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— “Ella Boutique is close to a hospital for cancer care. Last year, a new customer’s husband was undergoing treatment, and he’d prompt her to have a little retail therapy while he was having check-ups. It was lovely to see them both come to shop and give me the news of his recovery and hear from him how much he loved seeing his wife’s purchases.”

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RAFFAELLA ZOPPELLETTO Owner, Ella Boutique, London SW3

COCARANTI OPENS WEB STORE Following its opening in October 2012, Knutsford boutique Cocaranti has extended its operation with an e-commerce arm.

The full range of denim collections, luxury casuals and accessories is now available online, with the web offering having already expanded the store’s international presence, with orders having been sent out to as far as Australia and China. “The content, look and feel, usability and quality of images had to reflect the standards of the boutique and Cocaranti brand,” says owner Lucy Willder. “We’ll also be sharing our lifestyle blog on the website.”

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MY FAVOURITE SHOP...

OTHER SHOP

By Vicky Snepp, head of design, Bastyan

Other Shop 21 Kingly Street London WLB 5QA

AOIFE MYLER Owner, Moda Mallow, County Cork

Owner: Matthew Murphy and Kirk Beattie Store opened: September 2012 Brands carried: Christopher Lemaire, Peter Jensen, Sophie Hulme, Stephan Schneider, Opening Ceremony and Other “Tucked away behind Liberty stands Other Shop, the small independent set up by the B-Store boys in 2012. Clean, minimal rails and tall wooden tables are strategically placed for you to shop with ease, with large green plants dotted around.

I always make a beeline for the store’s off-the-wall accessories, although the clothing is just as tempting. The labels offered are not easily accessible, so you know you’re in for a treat – a collective mix of fashion-pack must haves, essential day pieces and unconventional designs with understated coolness.

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— “It would have to be our youngest customer, Lottie, aged seven, who fell so madly in love with a Lulu Guinness shopper, she saved up all her £3-aweek pocket money. One day, she came in with her mum and, to our surprise, pulled out her purse full of £1 coins and bought it.

Thank goodness we had one left!”

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— “My most memorable experience to date was when I had my daughter Sofia. I was overwhelmed by the support and gifts I received from customers, both locally and countrywide. It was totally unexpected and reminded me how much customers appreciate the service boutiques offer.”

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DANIELLE ROGERS CLARK Owner, Believe In, Essex

Garments that won’t hang about.

The steamer that will.

It’s the quality of its steam production and delivery that makes Propress the ultimate tool for anyone working professionally with fabric. It quickly penetrates and lifts the fibres, removing creases instantly and leaving clothes looking full of life. And that can only be good for sales. But Propress Steamers are also great value and stress-free.

Why? Their extraordinary reliability. So that’s wrinkle-free garments.

And no worry lines either.

Call us on 020 8417 0660 or visit www.propress.co.uk

Fabric steamers built to last

116 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

DIRECTORY —

GARMENT LABELS

HAT BOXES

RAILS

T-SHIRTS

 



SHOWCASES            

       

GARMENT STANDS   

              

          

STEAMERS AND IRONS

HEADWEAR

       

To advertise please call Mina or Jasprit on

  

01484 846069

  

or email mina@ras-publishing.com jasprit@ras-publishing.com Arctic Fox • Hats • Gloves Scarves • Sunglasses • Ski Goggles

WANTED

Tel: 01923 210646 Fax: 01923 210647 Email: info@bullseyeinternation.co.uk



   

MANNEQUINS To advertise please call Mina or Jasprit on

To advertise please call Mina or Jasprit on

01484 846069

01484 846069

or email mina@ras-publishing.com jasprit@ras-publishing.com

or email mina@ras-publishing.com jasprit@ras-publishing.com

           

  

117 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

DIRECTORY —

AGENTS WANTED

NAMES AND NUMBERS

Calico

2nd Day 020 7499 2522 www.day.dk All Beautiful 01626 879998 www.enjoy-fashion.fr Alexis Barrell 020 7629 4633 www.alexisbarrell.com Almost Famous 020 7637 2622 www.aflondon.com Aamaya by Priyanka 07799 603797 www.aamayabypriyanka.com ADC 01626 879998 Adini 020 8560 2323 www.adini.co.uk Apanage 020 7636 7111 www.apanage.de Atelier Gardeur 0049 52413076194 www.gardeur.de Bandolera 0031 (0)102381523 www.bandolera.com Bellerose 020 7486 4800 www.bellerose.be Beaumont 07876 333397 Bianca 020 7580 0085 www.bianca.de Capri Clothing 020 3490 8361 www.capriclothing.co.uk Cartise www.cartise.com Creenstone 020 7436 1701 www.creenstone.com Designsix 020 8766 7823 www.designsixlondon.com Deserious 0113 246 0605 Doris Streich 0049 743390090 www.dorisstreich.de DQ by Balbier Wyatt www.dqbalbierwyatt.com Dynasty 020 8736 0200 www.dynastyuk.co.uk Elisa Cavaletti 07876 333397 www.elisacavaletti.com Faber 020 7636 9140 www.faberknitwear.de Gelco 020 7580 3202 www.gelco.de Gina Bacconi 020 8438 2000 www.shubette.com Gina Stewart Cox 020 7739 1414 www.ginastewartcox.com Gino Cerutti 0870 712 0014 www.ginocerruti.com Grand Bazaar 07813 791257 www.grandbazaarlondon.co.uk Gsus Sindustries 0031 205095555 www.g-sus.com Hauber 020 7323 6100 www.hauber-fashion.de Hawick Knitwear 01450 363163 www.hawickknitwear.com Kali Orea 0039 051752912 www.kaliorea.com Kapalua 020 7291 0531 Jackpot www.jackpot.dk James Lakeland 020 7636 7130 www.jameslakeland.net John Charles 020 8888 8833 www.johncharles.co.uk Kit Heath 01271 329123 www.kitheath.com Latte 0141 204 0699 www.latteclothing.com Luisa Cerano 020 7323 6100 www.luisacerano.com Maison Scotch 0845 862 2056 www.scotch-soda.com Marble 029 2066 4661 www.marblefashions.co.uk Masai 020 7385 9273 www.masai.dk Michaela Louisa 020 8888 7000 www.michaelalouisa.com MiH Jeans 020 7349 9030 www.mihjeans.com/home Nobody 020 7486 4800 www.nobody.com.au Odd Molly 020 7486 4800 www.oddmolly.com Olsen 020 7290 0890 www.olsenfashion.com Only 020 3205 0340 www.only.com Pause Café 0161 238 8570 www.essentialcollections.net Pomodoro 020 8961 4000 www.pomodoroclothing.com Picadilly 01626 879998 Pura Vida 020 7739 8691 www.puravidabracelets.com Nobody 020 7486 4800 www.nobody.com.au Rene Lezard 020 7436 1701 www.rene-lezard.com Ronen Chen 020 7402 5292 www.ronenchenstoreuk.com Ruby Ray www.rubyray.com Semper 01628 476467 Signature 01477 535189 www.signature.dk Soaked in Luxury 020 8875 5851 www.soakedinluxury.com Steilmann 020 7291 0522 www.steilmann.com Style Butler 020 3432 6385 www.stylebutler.com The Soho Furrier 0845 528 1061 www.thesohofurrier.com Tresor Paris 020 3355 4031 www.tresorparis.co.uk Viviana 020 8736 0200 www.dynastyuk.co.uk Voodoo Girls 0161 235 5289 www.voodoogirlcouture.com

Well known & successful, high quality scarf/ stole/shawl brand looking for experienced agents to cover the following areas: Midlands, Scotland, East Anglia, South East and London.

Contact: sales@pashfash.com Tel: 01708 455550

DISPLAYS

FOOTWEAR

To advertise please call Mina or Jasprit on

01484 846069 or email mina@ras-publishing.com jasprit@ras-publishing.com

118 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — FEBRUARY 2013

UP CLOSE & PERSONAL —

JACK FRENCH The founder of the eponymous handbag label reveals what makes him and his brand tick.

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Did you always want to be an accessories designer, or did you have any other career aspirations?

From a young age, I wanted to work in fashion – I knew I wanted to be involved in it one way or another. I’ve always been inspired and motivated by such vision of style and innate glamour, and I’ve stayed focused on heading a label with my name on the badge. My goal was to one day have an established brand in both apparel and accessories… watch this space.

You’ve worked for some high-profile brands including Jimmy Choo and Christian Louboutin. How has this inspired your own collection and style?

Working for some of the world’s most illustrious labels, I have gained a real sense of individuality and an eye for detail. I know what my clientele enjoy and that is why I like drawing them and watching my creations come to life.

Jack French is a fast-growing accessories label – what do you attribute this to?

A keen eye for detail, a sense of own identity and style, and we are a real “treat me” brand. We allow you to self-indulge the inner diva.

What are your plans going forward?

We have new projects in the pipeline moving forward. Global expansion, including launching in Macy’s in March this year, and opening sales channels in Canada, Germany, Korea and Japan this year. We will also be branching out in other areas in accessories and apparel. The world really is our oyster.

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QUICK-FIRE QUESTIONS: Who is your style icon and why?

Chanel. A trailblazer, effortlessly chic, talented and full of acerbic fruits of wisdom that is enough to keep you going for years.

— Which fashion businesses do you admire and why?

Again, it would have to be Chanel and its founder. From humble beginnings to a global billion-dollar business, this must evoke admiration from an array of people. I believe that the Chanel legacy has kept true to its original avant-garde message.

— What’s the best bit of industry advice you’ve ever been given?

Get people better than you.

— What is the one fashion item you can’t live without?

My husband. Failing that, my Sandro coat or my N.Peal scarf.

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34/35 Eastcastle Street 1st Floor London W1W 8DW Tel: 020 7 436 0631 Email: paulette@creaconcept.co.uk