WWB MAGAZINE OCTOBER ISSUE 241

wwb spine 241 09/10/2014 11:45 Page 1

OCTOBER 2014, ISSUE 241 £6.95 — WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK WOMENSWEAR BUYER

— SOLE SEARCHING The footwear finds from this season’s Moda —

— SHORT AND SWEET Must-have short-order collections for autumn —

— EXTRA TIME Summertime accessories trends summed up in little extras —

— LAMBING SEASON Jodie Kidd reveals all about her Green Lamb collaboration —

Spring Summer Collection 2015 info@michaelalouisa.co.uk

www.michaelalouisa.com

03 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

CONTENTS —

REGULARS

FEATURES

FASHION

5 EDITOR’S COMMENT — 6 NEWS — 10 BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear — 12 TALKING POINT — 54 RETAIL FORUM The latest news from the industry — 57 ADVICE Experts answer your questions — 62 UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL With model and designer Jodie Kidd

14 Q&A With Hamish Turner, CEO and managing director, R.M. Williams — 18 THE APPRENTICES How apprenticeships are making a difference across the fashion sector — 22 A DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE Three retailers reveal all about contemporary trading — 32 WELL HEELED Footwear news for s/s 15 — 52 FROM THE FROW Round-up of the s/s 15 edition of London Fashion Week — 58 RETAIL SOLUTIONS Essential items for easy retailing

16 STYLE FILE — 20 FASHION RADAR — 24 SOUL SEARCHING The key s/s 15 looks as seen at Moda Footwear — 36 RIGHT HERE, RIGHT NOW Short order fashion brands to watch — 43 ACCESSORIES TRENDS FOR S/S 15 — 48 MODA WOMAN The highlights from last month’s event — 50 MODA ACCESSORIES The key looks from the show

FRONT COVER: MOTEL ROCKS —

05 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

Acting editor Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — Contributors Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com — Sub editor Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — Editorial assistant Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com — Design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — Sales Sam Chambers sam@ras-publishing.com — Subscriptions Laura Martindale laura.martindale@ite-exhibitions.com — Production director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — Portfolio director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie.parker@ite-exhibitions.com — Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com — Reprographics/printing ImageData Group 01482 652323

— WWB is published 9 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 — Copyright © 2014 WWB Magazine Limited.

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RAS Publishing is an ITE Group PLC company A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication WWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include MWB and CWB.

COMMENT —

AS CUSTOMERS’ FRUSTRATIONS RISE AT SEARCHING FOR MITTENS IN MARCH AND SUMMER DRESSES IN SEPTEMBER, IS IT ANY WONDER THAT THE HIGH STREET IS LOSING OUT TO THE BIG, WORLDWIDE WEB? — A recent survey found that a staggering 85 per cent of consumers want retailers to adjust their in-store offer in line with the seasons. The current system of offering new season stock weeks – and sometimes months – ahead of an actual change in meteorological conditions is one reason cited by respondents to the Brandalley survey for doing more and more shopping online; something 80 per cent admitted to doing.

As well as driving consumers to the internet in search of “out of season” items, the incongruous arrival of new season stock is also fuel to the fire when it comes to end-of-season discounting. Consumers are more than happy to snap up that discounted summer skirt that may be end of line in fashion terms, but is in perfect harmony with the blazing September sunshine as they leave the store, discount purchase in hand.

It’s something to consider amid the ongoing reports that footfall onto UK high streets is down. Offering consumers that right here, right now purchase is perhaps one way to recoup the customer demographic that wants to shop in real

time, both in terms of suiting the seasons and avoiding the trials and tribulations of online ordering and delivery.

As the buying season draws to a close, however, autumn is well and truly here. The move towards a diversified textural palette and deeper, more intense hues has reinvigorated shop windows across the country, and customers likewise have been inspired by winter purchases of cosy layers, boots and winter accessories.

With the first wave of purchasing already under way, topping up is on the minds of most retailers, and our guide to the best short order brands to look out for makes for essential reading on p36.

Christina Williams, acting editor

06 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

NEWS —

SCOTLAND WELCOMES END TO UNCERTAINTY No vote restores “business as usual” north of the border.

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The rejection of independence for Scotland has ended a period of uncertainty for retailers and suppliers across the country. The result of last month’s referendum – which saw 55.3 per cent of the electorate vote no to independence – has ended months of speculation surrounding issues such as currency, export and industry law.

“There’s definitely a sense of relief that the uncertainty is over,” says Jenny Lockton, founder and creative director of brand and retailer Bohemia Design in Edinburgh. “Our trade in-store wasn’t affected by the referendum – the shop has been busy – but the mood in Edinburgh was getting quite frenetic, with people displaying signs in their windows and driving around in cars draped in flags and stickers.

“I have to say, I was getting very anxious as the polls showed the results getting closer and closer; not for my Edinburgh store business so much – although any financial uncertainty or collapse would impact negatively – but more for our wholesale and online business, because we are importing and exporting on a daily basis,” she continues. “With no clear answers on currency, EU membership, and all that would be entailed in having to negotiate these critical financial and legal agreements, I was very worried about the potential consequences for our business.

If a yes vote had gone through, I think we may have seen a flight of businesses from Scotland.”

For Springboard Events – organiser of accessories and lifestyle trade show

Scotland’s Trade Fair – there was a similar sense of relief that the result ended the uncertainty surrounding issues affecting the trade. “Inevitably, a degree of normality will return given the result,” says Mark Saunders, founder of the company. “Scotland is currently exhausted; half the country is mightily relieved and half is bitterly disappointed.

“A lot of energy, effort and emotion has been spent in the last few weeks, so recovery time and perspective are now required,” he continues. “Trade has suffered in the last few weeks; inevitably local shoppers have thought of little else but the vote, and shopping has been a long way from people’s minds. Change is on the table, but this will probably happen gradually, as constitutional reform for the UK is unlikely to be quick. As and when change does happen it is likely people will be able to consider and review what is on the table, and how they might need to change their businesses accordingly.”

The potential effects of a yes vote on the business sector were impossible to gauge in the lead up to the event but, according to Gemma Kirkland, associate at intellectual property law firm D Young & Co, issues such as trademark protection would have been a key concern for brand owners. “If independence occurred without Scottish trademark laws having been established, brand owners may have found themselves without adequate statutory remedies to protect themselves from opportunistic infringers producing counterfeit products

“Trade has suffered in the last few weeks; inevitably local shoppers have thought of little else but the vote, and shopping has been a long way from people’s minds”

following independence but before the establishment of Scottish trade mark laws,” she says. “Brand owners both inside and outside of Scotland would have had to spend time and money obtaining new trade mark protection for their brands in Scotland and would have had to wait until Scottish trade mark laws had been passed before being able to do so.”

The focus now will be on how the government delivers on its promises to devolve more powers to the Scottish Parliament. However, the continuation of the union was presented as an altogether positive development in light of the country’s ongoing economic recovery.

“The people of Scotland have spoken, and it is a clear result,” says Prime Minister David Cameron. “They have kept our country of four nations together and, like millions of other people, I am delighted.”

07 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

NEWS —

LABOUR TO COMMIT TO CUT IN BUSINESS RATES The Labour Party is set to commit to a one per cent cut in business rates if elected next year.

The plans would see a reversal in the inflation-linked increase set to take place in April 2015, as well as scrapping the planned increase in 2016 – a move worth £250m to businesses in 2015 and £540m in 2016.

“We are heartened that Labour has listened to retailers’ concerns on business rates,” says Helen Dickinson, director general of the British Retail Consortium (BRC). “As well as leading the debate on fundamental change, the BRC has been strongly encouraging the continuation of an immediate package for retailers to support the high street and it is very welcome to hear it announced.

“UK business rates are the highest property taxes of any EU country and lead directly to vacant shops and job losses,” she continues. “It is widely agreed that the system is no longer fit for purpose and requires total reform. We look forward to discussing the road to broader reforms with Labour as we draw closer to the election.”

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NEW LOOK MODA PROVIDES INDUSTRY BOOST Brands and buyers alike reported a buoyant atmosphere when Moda returned to Birmingham’s NEC for its 26th edition.

The show, which welcomed almost 1,500 collections from the womenswear, footwear, accessories, lingerie, swimwear and menswear sectors, unveiled a new look across the halls.

“It really felt like there were so many different dimensions to the show this season,” says Melissa Wheeler, owner of Colchester womenswear store Ambience. “It was easier than ever to navigate around and the thought that went into the layout didn’t go unnoticed by visitors.”

The new design provided the setting to a successful edition of the show, which saw brands within the womenswear sector welcome both new and existing customers to their s/s 15 showcase.

“We were delighted with the response we had this season,” says Michael Black, joint owner of womenswear label Latte. “Buyers were ready to do business, and it made us excited for next season.”

Moda returns to the NEC for its autumn edition on 15-17 February 2015.

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UKFT CHAIRMAN STEPS DOWN UKFT chairman Peter Lucas will step down as of May 2015, with deputy chairman Nigel Lugg elected to take over the role.

Lucas, who has held the position since 2008, began his involvement with the Industrial Relations Committee of the British Clothing Industry Association in 1987, and has also previously served a number of highly active roles within the Board of BCIA, The British Apparel and Textile Confederation, The British Knitting and Clothing Export Council and UK Fashion Exports.

— LYDC TEAMS UP WITH NEXT AND LIPSY Handbag label LYDC will sell its autumn collection via national retailers Next and Lipsy as of this season. The online partnerships came into effect on 22 September, and follow on from the brand’s successful collaboration with Bank Fashion. “We are excited to see our bags on Next and Lipsy,” says LYDC’s general manager, Rahul Maroju. “The label has really grown year on year, and we’re feeling great about the upcoming launches. It is a good culture fit for LYDC bags to sit alongside Next and Lipsy products, and we have high hopes for a great consumer reaction.”

— TWITTER ADDS PURCHASING FUNCTION Social-media site Twitter has stepped up its efforts to build functionality into its website with the introduction of a buy button. The site’s users are able to access certain products and merchandise via selected tweets in a bid to drive further traffic to the website and increase its presence as a business platform.

“Sellers will gain a new way to turn the direct relationship they build with their followers into sales,” says Twitter’s group product manager Tarun Jain.

“The buyer’s payment and shipping information is encrypted and safely stored after their first transaction, so they can easily buy in future without having to re-enter all of their information.”

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08 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

NEWS —

ROYAL MAIL TRIALS SUNDAY PARCEL SERVICE Royal Mail has a introduced Sunday delivery service, as well as opening 100 of its collection offices, starting within the M25 motorway.

The pilot scheme will see offices open from 12pm to 4pm in line with the postal firm’s aim of increasing accessibility to shoppers who may not be home during office hours.

“We are continuing to provide more options for people to receive items they have ordered online,” says Nick Landon, MD of Royal Mail Parcels. “I am delighted to pilot Sunday afternoon opening at around 100 of our delivery offices across the UK.” David Selinger, CEO of RichRelevance, an omnichannel personalisation company, adds, “Many retailers struggle to offer home deliveries to complete the last leg of the shopping journey. But Sunday deliveries will open up a fair battleground for independent retailers to compete with Amazon. Shoppers can now shop anytime, anywhere and expect a delivery to their homes at a time that suits.”

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SHANGHAI DEBUT FOR CHIC Asia’s largest fashion trade show Chic will make its Shanghai debut next year, presenting a range of womenswear, accessories, menswear and childrenswear at the city’s brand new, state-of-the-art NECC convention centre.

Taking place alongside Chic Young Blood – an integrated show-in-show for the young and streetwear sectors – Chic will exhibit an extensive portfolio of international brands across 100,000 sq m of exhibition space.

As well as must-have fashion collections from over 1,000 brands, the show will play host to a range of retail solutions suppliers as well as a programme of seminars and workshops designed to help visitors from all walks of the sector to maximise their business in 2015.

Having previously taken place in Beijing, Chic and Chic Young Blood are relocating to Shanghai in a bid to increase accessibility to the event, as well as taking advantage of the newly built exhibition ground and its easy-to-navigate design.

Chic and Chic Young Blood will take place on 18-20 March 2015, and are expected to welcome over 100,000 visitors from 40 different nations.

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MINTEL PREDICTS CHRISTMAS ONLINE SALES SURGE Non-food retailers will see sales growth of 3.5 per cent over Christmas 2014, according to industry analyst Mintel.

Additionally, nearly 13 per cent of all retail sales will be online, reaching £4.7bn, with a quarter of Brits admitting they will be shopping online more for Christmas 2014. “We expect year-on-year growth to be slightly more weighted towards non-food retailers – from specialists such as clothing and electrical stores to general retailers such as department stores,” says Mintel’s director of retail Richard Perks. “Non-food retailers will see stronger growth of around 3.5 per cent, helped by some displacement of spending from food to non-food categories.

Fewer non-food purchases – including impulse buys – will be made from grocery superstores, so non-food retailers, such as specialists in clothing or beauty and department stores, will have greater opportunity to snap up these purchases.”

— MOST CONSUMERS BACK SUNDAY REFORM A national survey by ComRes for Open Sundays – a campaign group comprising consumers, shop workers and retailers – has revealed that 64 per cent of British people would support a reform of the liberalisation of Sunday trading hours. Only 16 per cent of those polled strongly opposed the concept of longer shopping hours, with the 18-24 year-old demographic most supportive of full liberalisation.

“The Sunday Trading Act is outdated and needs to go,” says Mark Allatt, co-founder of Open Sundays. “The Britain of 20 years ago is a very different place to the Britain of today – and we should be free to shop when we want and where we want.

Sunday trading reform would be good for consumers, good for the high street and good for shop workers who want the freedom to work at the weekends when they choose.”

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09 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

GRAZIA EXPANDS INTO E-COMMERCE Weekly fashion magazine Grazia is set to expand into e-commerce, following parent company The Mondadori Group’s acquisition of online retail platform London-Boutiques.com earlier this year.

London-Boutiques.com currently offers highlights from boutiques in the capital, while Grazia’s digital strategy moving forward is to launch graziashop.com – including hand-selected products from boutiques across the UK, Italy and France.

The retail portal will be available in 23 markets worldwide, in each country where the magazine is currently sold.

“A leader among international fashion-oriented magazines for its rapid development and innovative formula, Grazia is now taking a decisive step into digital – this acquisition is the first step towards a development plan that starts from London, the biggest European market for e-commerce fashion, and that will soon also include many of the most important trend-setting boutiques in the main cities of Italy and France,” says Ernesto Mauri, CEO of the Mondadori Group.

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NEWS —

BOURNE OPENS FIRST STORE British womenswear label Bourne has opened its first standalone retail store in its native Yorkshire in celebration of its 10th anniversary.

The brand, which launched in 2004 as a footwear label before expanding into womenswear in 2012, has chosen the historic village of Cottingham as the destination for its first retail venture in recognition of its East Yorkshire roots.

As well as its own footwear and womenswear offer, Bourne will retail a carefully curated portfolio of other labels including Twist & Tango, Almost Famous, Oui, Second Female, Selected Femme and Numph. Accessories, meanwhile, are on offer from Dyrberg Kern, Modalu, Becksondergaard and Cinderela B. —

BB MAKES U-TURN OVER PLANS Bread & Butter is to remain in Berlin this coming a/w 15, following a decision to cancel its planned Barcelona edition after brands and buyers expressed their scepticism at the move.

“It became clear that in the current market situation they rather prefer to stick to the established format, despite the appeal and the possibilities of the new,” says Karl-Heinz Müller, founder, Bread & Butter. “At the moment, most of the exhibitors are focused on the healthy and reliable German market.”

The dateline, which was set to move to 8-10 January for the Barcelona edition, will remain on 19-21 January in line with Berlin’s other exhibitions, including Panorama, Premium and Seek.

“I would like to herewith apologise to our exhibitors, visitors and partners for the uncertainty and eventual inconveniences caused,” says Müller. “I assure you that we will continue to work with full power on the further contemporary development of Bread & Butter.”

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SALES RISE DESPITE DROP IN FOOTFALL Sales on the high street rose by 1.3 per cent last month, despite a drop in footfall during the same period. High-street footfall was down by 1.1 per cent overall, indicating that shopping habits are changing as consumers make fewer trips but purchase more during their visit. “The good news is that while footfall dropped, sales rose in August, primarily driven by clothing and footwear – which are traditionally town centre focused purchases,” says Diane Wehrle, retail insights director at Springboard, the industry analyst that carried out the survey. “This indicates that, at least in part, the drop in footfall will have been offset by increased dwell time and transaction values.” Out-of-town retail centres were once again the only sector of the industry to see a rise in footfall. For the eighth consecutive month, footfall into out-of-town destinations increased, making for an average month-on-month increase of 3.2 per cent this year.

— SHOP VACANCY RATES FALL The rate of vacant shop units fell to 10.1 per cent last month, a decrease from April’s rate of 10.6 per cent and the lowest rate since July 2011. The news was welcomed by the retail sector, although industry body BRC did warn that more still needs to be done to reinvigorate the British high street. “The reduction in the shop vacancy rate for the third successive quarter is heartening, with the vacancy rate at its lowest level since our records began in July 2011,” says Helen Dickinson, director general at the British Retail Consortium.

“However, it is still the case that every 10th shop remains unoccupied. This reinforces the need for a fundamental overhaul of commercial property taxes, which would increase retailers’ confidence about investing in new or existing retail premises and thus help rejuvenate our high streets.”

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10 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

PEOPLE —

BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear —

SHOW ON THE RHODES Iconic British designer Zandra Rhodes (pictured above) made a personal appearance at Moda Accessories last month to launch her latest collection of handbags. Two years on from its inception, the collection diversified for spring with the introduction of punk elements and iconic lipstick designs which, according to Zandra Rhodes, have a wide appeal across the spectrum. “Women of all ages love the bags,” she says. “There are some real statement pieces this season, but everything is still very wearable, which is why the collection has such a wide appeal.”

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PRIMED FOR SUCCESS Prime Minister David Cameron and Deputy Prime Minister Nick Clegg visited Pentland Brands HQ last month as an example of flourishing British businesses. The family owned company, which counts Ellesse, Boxfresh, KangaROOS, Berghaus and Speedo among its stable, welcomed the ministers to its London HQ, which was recently voted the eighth best place in the UK to work.

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Stylist Gok Wan has launched a new range in conjunction with TU at Sainsbury’s.

Targeting the working woman, the 34-piece collection adds a masculine twist to womenswear, with each piece retailing at under £40.

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The run of the mill HRH The Prince of Wales explored Ayrshire mill Morton Young & Borland last month in celebration of its year-long relationship with womenswear retailer Hobbs. The mill manufactures lace for the high-street retailer – a staunch supporter of British manufacture – and most recently produced a dedicated spring collection for the store, inspired by the 17th century filigree Tijou Gates at Hampton Court Palace in Richmond.

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FROM NORTH TO EAST Danish womenswear label Ganni is testing the UK retail waters with a pop-up store in London’s Shoreditch. Open for six months at 30A Redchurch Street, the store debuts with the brand’s full autumn collection, which focuses on rich textures, brooding prints and fluid silhouettes. “When I think of London – as a Dane – it’s all about indie music, the energy and a bit of naughtiness, and this is like coming home,” says Ditte Reffstrup, creative director at Ganni.

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12 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

OPINION —

TALKING POINT Key industry players give their views on the issues that affect womenswear.

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NOT YET USING SOCIAL MEDIA? OK, hands up. Who’s afraid of using Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or owning a website? If this is you, the good news is that a recent survey carried out by analyst Eptica (as reported in WWB’s August issue) found that you are far from alone.

Only a small enlightened minority see social media’s true potential as the new global playing field for business performance, fast growth and leadership in the fashion sector. In a competitive industry like ours, it’s so important to have as much exposure as possible and not to be stuck only in traditional ways of marketeering. Interconnection is changing the way the world works and the way products and services are sold. If you are thinking of taking the step, now is most definitely the perfect time to go for it.

Not sure how to get started? Let’s get one thing straight – you don’t need to be a technical whizz to use any kind of social media.

All ages are using Facebook, Twitter etc so don’t think it’s just for “young people”. You might be a tad tentative initially, but you’ll soon be wooed, wowed and won over. Especially when you start to increase your sales. And you will. One of our clients recently posted an image on Facebook of a Latte top that had just been delivered to their boutique. Within four hours, yes four hours, they were sold out. Other retailers I know often post comments with great outcomes about their upcoming in-store events, new stock deliveries, special preview days, images of stock displays, windows etc.

Are you perhaps worried about web-design costs? For the budget-conscious boutique owner, creating a Facebook page will give you an online presence that is absolutely free. Consumers can go to your page for information but best of all is that Facebook will open the door for you to engage with people (and share with all of their friends) and therefore rapidly increase your network.

It’s become commonplace for people to use the social-media platform not only to stay in touch with family and friends, but also to keep up-to-date with their favourite businesses and retailers.

Women love to flick through Facebook, trawl through Twitter and share fashion images and the latest looks. There’s no doubt it is fun and a great way to show your business personality to a widereaching audience and engage people further.

If you don’t want to do it yourself or if you feel you are time-deprived, ask for help to get you started from your sons, daughters, nieces, nephews or even a Saturday girl. You do lots for them! Now is a great time to start growing your business further and your online success. Don’t be afraid, give it a try, and remember – you’ve nothing to lose and absolutely everything to gain, especially a new wave of customers.

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Adele Black, creative director, Latte Clothing

COULD “LUMPING” CITY SHOWS TOGETHER BE THE WAY FORWARD? I have one question for the powers that be – why is it necessary for the spring collections to start showing at the beginning of July? Having been in the business for many years, I do understand the production schedule and lead times that go into manufacturing a collection, but surely it doesn’t need six months?

At this point I’d like you to spare a thought for the independent retailer. Having worked our socks off all season in-store, dealing with the usual day-to-day challenges retail presents, as well as having to find ways of enticing customers out of their homes and into the shops despite the freezing temperatures while displaying our summer delights, you now want us to leave our businesses just as we’re either gearing up for the final push to sell high summer, which needs no end of attention, or go into Sale!

For many of us, having to take time away from the shop floor at crucial times during the season presents all manner of difficulties and, judging by the weak attendance of some of the shows I’ve visited, it looks as though buyers are not going to be bullied into visiting shows while the shop floor is calling.

As more show dates emerge on the buying calendar, it does seem as though there is a timing issue here and, as footfall seems to have dropped off and collections are being shown incomplete, surely there must be another way?

If I may be so bold to suggest, how about “lumping” all city shows together and showcasing them all to run concurrently over a week or so? For example, in London alone we have Scoop, Pure and London Fashion Week, not to mention all the off-schedule events including shows for shoes, streetwear and emerging designers etc.

At least that way buyers choosing to attend can better plan their visit and spread their time more evenly without the pressure (and expense) of making several visits to the capital and possibly combine showroom appointments at the same time. It’s just a thought because even we need to make time for a holiday to recharge the batteries to welcome winter with a smile…

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Pamela Schiffer, owner, Pamela Schiffer

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14 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

INTERVIEW —

Q&A

Hamish Turner CEO and managing director, R.M. Williams — Australia’s iconic “bush outfitter” R.M. Williams now has a much more fashion-focused offering while retaining its heritage appeal and craftsmanship. With new investment from L Capital, the private equity business sponsored by LVMH, there is also a new push on the UK and European markets, a greater emphasis on womenswear and plans for further retail, as Tom Bottomley discovers from CEO and managing director Hamish Turner.

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15 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

Tom Bottomley: What’s R.M. Williams’ history in the UK? Hamish Turner: R.M. Williams the brand has been in the UK since the first store opened in Knightsbridge in 1989. But R.M., the man himself – it stands for Reginald Murray but he was always just known as R.M. even by his kids – was making trips to the UK and Ireland to look for beautiful fabrics and raw materials for his products as far back as the early 1950s. He landed in London, got in a cab and asked to be driven to Edinburgh. For him, looking at the map, it was a standard drive compared to Australia. The cabbie gave him a funny look and asked if he was serious, but took him. That was the start of his trips to the UK. TB: What was his background?

HT: He was born and raised in Prospect, South Australia, where our factory remains today. We still own the original address, too, at 5 Percy Street, where we now have a store and a museum. It was originally his father’s house, and R.M. set up the beginnings of the first factory in 1932 – in an iron woodshed in the back yard. In Australia, R.M. is a true icon, and a figure that represents true Australian heritage. The Prime Minister named him a National Living Treasure when he was still around; an accolade awarded to exceptional Australians with substantial and enduring accomplishments in their field. R.M. died in 2003 at the age of 95, and the federal government provided a national funeral.

TB: How did he start the business?

HT: It was during his journeys into the bush that he discovered there was a requirement for quality products for people working on the land. He worked out how to make a boot out of only one piece of leather, with just a seam at the back of the boot – which we still do today – so there were no other seams or edges where the stitching could wear away or break. R.M. was smart enough to put his name and address on the boot tug of each pair. Word spread as to how good the boots were, and with the name and address on the boot tugs, people could write to R.M. Williams and order a pair. The rule was that you had to send the money with the order. Today we’re producing 150,000 pairs of handmade boots a year, exporting to 15 countries, and we operate a very large retail network in Australia.

TB: What has triggered this new push for the brand into other markets?

HT: Over all the years of development of the footwear and apparel, in May of 2013 it was enough to attract the interests of L Capital Asia, a private equity business sponsored by LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy). It bought into R.M. Williams as a 49.9 per cent shareholder. That development has come about with Ken Cowley, who is the chairman and 51 per cent owner. He was one was of R.M.’s best mates in life, as well as having

INTERVIEW — been Rupert Murdoch’s right-hand man for some 45 years. Cowley was 10 per cent owner of R.M. Williams for 11 years prior to this deal.

With the LVMH background, L Capital obviously brings a huge amount of talent when it comes to brand building, as well as a massive worldwide network. The strategy was then put in place to take R.M. Williams to a much bigger audience, while still keeping the core brand DNA. The UK and Europe are being targeted first, to develop the brand and the product there over the next two to three years. Once we have that acceptance and success in the UK and Europe, we will take the brand back into Asia, where you have the largest emerging middle to luxury market.

TB: Is it now so much more than about the famous R.M. Williams boots?

HT: Over the last 80 years, the company has always dressed people from head to toe. In Australia we have over 360 people in our factory handcrafting our boots every day.

There are 68 hand-held processes to produce a pair of our boots. They have a fully lasted Goodyear welt, and we use the finest leathers in the world. Our Craft Line, in terms of belts, bags and other leather accessories is also big business. We produce around 200,000 units a year, all handcrafted in Australia. We have a full jean production – and were the first denim maker in Australia, as well as a big shirt and outerwear business. With the new push into Europe, we’ve expanded the line to ensure we’ve used the quintessential elements of the brand and its 80 years of heritage, as well as the design expertise of our creative director Jonathan Ward – one of Australia’s most prominent designers. We also now have other senior designers in Europe.

TB: What’s Ward’s background and how long has he been heading up R.M. Williams’ design team?

HT: He has been at the helm of our design since 2001. He’s renowned for his effortless versatility, and his design portfolio covers women’s couture, women’s ready to wear, menswear, childrenswear and accessories. He was raised on a sheep and cattle station in central west NSW, but his innate talent for drawing and design lead him away from the country to the prestigious Parson’s College of Art Design in New York. After gaining experience with some of Australia’s most prestigious fashion houses and international names such as Yves Saint Laurent, Jonathan Ward Couture was established in 1988 to cater for his growing demand as an independent designer. This successful couture business continues to operate today, with Ward’s designs worn by many international and Australian celebrities and icons including Kylie Minogue and Nicole Kidman.

TB: Is there now more of an “Outback chic” feel to the collection?

HT: I think the line we launched at the last

Bread & Butter show in Berlin for s/s 15 has more of a UK and European appeal. There’s still a real sense of Australia, but we’re also giving a European fit and feel to the product range – which lets us take that next step forward in the marketplace. We’re Australian in our heritage and nationality, but we also know from selling products all over the world and exporting to 15 countries that there are unique requirements for different markets in terms of design, fit, style and colour choice – and now we can do it. The response has been great in the first season.

TB: R.M. Williams is perceived as quite a masculine brand, so what’s in the new women’s offer?

HT: In Australia, we started to focus on the delivery of womenswear when Ken Cowley privatised the business in 2003. Up until that point it was very male dominant. Jonathan Ward is one of Australia’s best-known high-end couture women’s designers, so his influence is huge. Subsequently our women’s offer has grown significantly, and now represents some 35 per cent of our business in Australia. In terms of footwear, many of our core styles and bestsellers are unisex. But we’re also making a unique range especially for women. The womenswear line for the UK and Europe is a more focused capsule range.

It consists of around 60 pieces across outerwear, shirting, jersey, denim and casual chinos, all fused seamlessly with footwear representing Australian casual luxury.

TB: How would you define the design focus?

HT: It’s about blending the rugged outdoor spirit of the Outback with the sophisticated glamour of the urban environment. Our target audience is any woman with country in her heart, but she lives, works and enjoys the city lifestyle. The garments are put together with a strong focus on subtle detailing and quality, linking back to the footwear through small leather trim detailing whether in buttons, button holes, zip pullers, elbow and collar re-enforcements or whole beautifully finished leather jackets. Colour is very important in the collections. The footwear is influenced by the Outback, but for the city, and built around the heart of the brand – the Craftsman, or Chelsea boot as you might call it. It has a variation in heel height, a sophisticated feminine toe and a wide offering of finely finished leathers for women.

TB: What are the plans for your own retail?

HT: We’ve been on New Bond Street for almost five years, and that shop will be getting a facelift for spring 2015. There is now a chance to bring the best of R.M. Williams into the UK and Europe – in a far more sophisticated way. And yes we will be looking at other retail opportunities in the next 12-18 months, with select locations targeted with our new store concept.

16 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

FASHION —

STYLE FILE The hottest brands not to miss this month —

▲ IT’S IN THE JEANS This season sees Italian denim label Reiv arrive in the UK, presenting five essential fits for contemporary women. Pronounced “rave”, Reiv is inspired by the traditional Italian craftsmanship practised by the founder’s dressmaker grandmother, and presented in a portfolio of fits spanning Highlife Regular, Fuseaux, Push-Up, Flared and Skinny.

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Luxurious knitwear label Needle unveils its second spring collection this month, revealing an ethereal range of lightweight garments inspired by British coastlines. Pastel hues are key, with apricot, powder blue and soft pumice grey taking centre stage. Established in 2013, the British brand designs its entire line in the UK. —

▲

HIS AND HERS Presenting a new neck couture for spring, Rew Clothing offers a range of gender-neutral scarves designed to be shared between couples. Crafted from the finest lamb Napa and silks in a dusky colour palette of washed blues, greys and corals, the range is designed to appeal to non-conformists. Since its launch in 2011, Rew clothing has established over 200 stockists in the UK and worldwide.

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Women’s sports lifestyle brand Green Lamb launches a new range designed in conjunction with supermodel Jodie Kidd for s/s 15. For more information on the Green Lamb Jodie Kidd Performance Collection, see p62 for Kidd’s personal insight into the range.

▲ WEAR IT WELL Performance footwear label Bogs has diversified into the fashion sector with the launch of a winter collection of women’s boots, designed for town and country living. Incorporating all of the brand’s durability aspects, the new range is designed to offer the same technical performance as the label’s core range of all-weather footwear, while looking perfectly in place in the pub or on the high street.

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Crossing the border Womenswear label Ness blurs the boundaries of traditional Scottish attire with a range that injects high-street verve into classic tartan, plaid and check. Designed to challenge the preconception that Scottish design is “all shortbread and country houses”, the collection features cropped jackets, skirt suits and vibrant knitwear in celebratory Scottish textures.

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18 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

UKFT —

THE APPRENTICES AS BBC1’S THE APPRENTICE RETURNS TO OUR SCREENS THIS MONTH, REAL-LIFE APPRENTICES ALL OVER THE COUNTRY ARE CUTTING OUT A CAREER IN ALL ASPECTS OF FASHION, THANKS TO NEW GOVERNMENT FUNDING AVAILABLE VIA THE UKFT AND CREATIVE SKILL SET. CHRISTINA WILLIAMS FOUND OUT MORE. — It was seemingly an unlikely pairing; the demure school-leaver with an aptitude for tailoring, and the erotic women’s lingerie label with aspirations to be sold via Asos.

Brought together by an apprenticeship scheme, however, 20-year-old Eloise Morris and lingerie label Holloway Smith Noir formed a dynamic relationship and, according to brand owners Alice and Sophie Holloway, it’s one that was instrumental to the label’s arrival in the mainstream womenswear sector.

“We wouldn’t be where we are now if we hadn’t taken the leap of faith with Eloise,” says Sophie Holloway. “As a small business, return on investment is always at the front of your mind, and what we invested in Eloise’s training was certainly paid back both financially and beyond.”

It’s a microcosm of a new phenomenon that is occurring all over the country. In an age where formal university education is falling out of favour, a scheme that offers young people vocational experience, relevant skills and a working wage is proving increasingly popular. For the employer, meanwhile, the benefits of employing aspirational young people with fresh ideas are seemingly limitless, particularly when the government is offering financial assistance to employers looking to take on an apprentice.

Fashion Enter, New Look, Asos and M&S are just some of the high-street names that have already signed up to the scheme but, according to Creative Skillset’s training network manager for the Fashion & Textiles sector Alice Burkitt, independent retailers and smaller fashion brands looking to expand are especially well-placed to take advantage of the scheme.

“Apprenticeships are an effective, sustainable way of growing your business, and at the moment there is financial support to do so,” she says. “All too often, people think of apprenticeships as being limited to would-be fashion designers, but there are so many aspects of the fashion industry – from retail to marketing to buying – that can benefit from on-the-job training.”

Since July this year, Creative Skillset has been working with industry body the UKFT to make all aspects of the trade aware of the funding available. Employers fitting the criteria of employing less than 1,000 staff and being willing to take on an apprentice aged 16-24 could be eligible to receive a government grant of £1,500 per apprentice.

“Training and developing existing staff and bringing new talent into the industry at all levels is vital in ensuring the long-term future of fashion and textile businesses,” says Burkitt. “The fashion industry is joining together to invest in skills and training crucial for its growth and sustainability, and the call to action is use the support and funding that is out there now to bring new talent and industry relevant skills into your business.”

Opposite, some fashion apprentices explain how the scheme has benefitted them.

Employers can find out more by contacting aliceb@creativeskillset.org.

19 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

L-R: Zoe Barrow, Tom Pendry, Abbie Godbold, Emma Joseph, Cory Hurst, Alex Rank, Natalie Hurst-Knight, Eloise Morris, Shana Tekila

ZOE BARROW, 18, PR APPRENTICE WITH FASHION ENTER “The key skills I’ve learnt along the way are the full production life cycle and the business side of the company. I would 100 per cent recommend doing an apprenticeship if you want to get into the fashion industry. It’s not an easy way in and the training is quite complex but, just like everything in life, you get out of it what you put in.”

— TOM PENDRY, 31, CUTTING APPRENTICE WITH HENRY POOLE & CO, SAVILE ROW “After attending a workshop in college, I fell in love with the traditional old British craft of tailoring – it intrigued and fascinated me. I went from being on a six-week course to work experience to being taken on as an apprentice. Apart from learning the technical skills, managing people from different cultures and backgrounds is what I found most interesting about my apprenticeship.”

— ABBIE GODBOLD, 18, FASHION STUDIO APPRENTICE WITH FASHION ENTER “Since starting my apprenticeship I’ve gained so many skills and received so much information, it’s unbelievable. Coming straight from school I wasn’t sure if I was work-ready, but I am now much more professional. I’ve increased my performance levels and I’m a lot more confident in myself. It’s fun, exciting and hard work. I would recommend having an open mind when entering into an apprenticeship, as there’s so much to take on board.”

— EMMA JOSEPH, 23, FOOTWEAR TECHNOLOGY APPRENTICE WITH NEW LOOK “I have found my apprenticeship really hands on and interesting.

You have to be on the ball because it’s just like a full-time job – you’re not running around doing errands or making coffee; it’s a real job.

I’ve learnt that you have to be consistent and professional at all times, as you’re meeting suppliers and going to board meetings. I’m coming to the end of my apprenticeship and have really loved it, and the money is good.”

— CORY HURST, 17, TEXTILE MANUFACTURING APPRENTICE WITH CAMIRA FABRICS “It was the noise and the excitement of the Camira factory with all the looms moving that first inspired me. I’m more hands on and would recommend it to others who are like me. It’s about watching and working and, since starting, I feel a lot more mature and know more about how fabric is made and distributed. It’s a great place to work and the money is good.”

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ALEX RANK, 17, TEXTILE MANUFACTURING APPRENTICE WITH CAMIRA FABRICS “I found out about my apprenticeship through school, and felt it would suit me because I’m very practical. I’ve found it amazing and feel I’ve grown up so much since I started. I feel like a proper adult now, getting a wage every month. It’s like I’ve woken up since I left school; I’m more switched on and feel a lot better about myself. I want to keep progressing in my job and get as high up as I can in the company.”

— NATALIE HURST-KNIGHT, 22, GARMENT TECHNOLOGY APPRENTICE WITH MARKS & SPENCER “It’s the perfect career path for me. I knew I didn’t want to go to university, as it didn’t suit my learning style and I wanted a skills-based apprenticeship. I’m still finding my feet, but it’s really enjoyable – every day is different and there is no such thing as a typical day, so it’s exciting. You’re allowed to learn on the job – you must be confident and get yourself known to make an impression.

By the end of my apprenticeship I should be ready for a full-time job, and hopefully that will be with M&S.” — ELOISE MORRIS, 20, LINGERIE APPRENTICE WITH HOLLOWAY SMITH NOIR “I’m really enjoying being an apprentice – its good fun and you get to do really cool stuff. I was quite nervous before working here, so the key skill I’ve gained over the last few months is people skills – it is a core skill for me. I’ve learnt about the timeliness of production.

The job is challenging and I’m always wearing different hats, but I get a say in decisions and I am involved in everything. You get the basis of everything in the business through learning – you get paid and you still get a job at the end of it.”

— SHANA TEKILA, 18, STITCHING SCHOOL GRADUATE WITH ASOS “My aspiration is to be a fashion designer, and to do this you need to know all the different areas in fashion, including the basics of learning how to sew. I love my apprenticeship and going into work every day. I am learning different skills by seeing what’s behind the scenes and how the production process works from start to finish.

It’s hard work but fun, and I’m actually doing what I want to do.”

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20 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

FASHION —

FASHION RADAR The hottest brands to look out for right now —

D’ALBERT

SUIT

Newly launched this year, D’Albert is already making a name for itself with its futuristic designs and architectural style.

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Celebrating 10 years in its native Denmark, Suit targets the UK market this spring with a collection that sees sports luxe clash with sharp tailoring.

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Established: 2014

Established: 2004

Signature style: Futuristic designs in sharp silhouettes.

Signature style: Minimalist Scandinavian style teamed with sharp tailoring.

Following its successful debut this spring, directional label D’Albert is setting its sights on increasing its presence throughout the UK womenswear sector. Currently available at London independent Wolf & Badger and via its own site, the brand is targeting independents that share a certain synergy with its distinctive styling.

Created by Yorkshire-born and London-based Julia D’Albert, the label is the culmination of a London College of Fashion education, post-graduate studies at Central St Martins and an MA in creative couture gained in Paris.

The brand focuses on sharp, minimal lines and modernist architecture, making for a distinctive range defined by its silhouettes. Wholesale prices range from £80.

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Presenting a pared-down collection that targets the contemporary urban market, Suit Female celebrates its 10-year anniversary with a renewed focus on its global presence. Encompassing the sports-luxe trend with a nod to clean-cut Scandinavian style, Suit Female echoes its core menswear offer with its sharp tailoring and sometimes androgynous cuts.

Femininity is maintained, however, through the “borrowed from the boyfriend” styling, which lets the female form speak for itself. Pastel shades also add a softer edge to the range, which is designed with a focus on quality in line with the brand’s ethos of no-nonsense style at high specifications. Wholesale prices range from £16 to £107.

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FA L L / W I N T E R 2 0 1 5 / 1 6

jan 19–21 STATION-Berlin

W W W. P R E M I U M E X H I B I T I O N S . CO M

22 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

RETAIL PROFILES —

A DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE Following a global recession, the boom in online shopping and the advent of multi-channel retailing, independent retail has been no place for the faint-hearted over the past decade. Christina Williams caught up with an established retailer, a new start-up and a recently expanded empire to find out what contemporary retailing is really like on the front line of the industry.

— THE ESTABLISHED RETAILER Yvette Davies opened Thirty Three Boutique in the Hampshire town of Lymington in 2007, and today retails a portfolio of designer womenswear labels including Weekend Max Mara, Marella, Crea Concept, Peruzzi, James Lakeland, Fly London, French Sole and Ilse Jacobsen.

Seven years into her flourishing business venture, Davies is somewhat candid about her beginnings in the women’s fashion sector. “My timing in opening Thirty Three Boutique was incredibly bad,” she says. “A few months after opening, the phrase ‘credit crunch’ started to be mentioned, recession was everywhere and consumer confidence sank just as I’d started to build up my business.”

Rather than sink alongside customer negativity, however, Davies stoically introduced a generous loyalty card scheme and worked tirelessly to get to know her new customers and respond to what they wanted. The result was a business that thrived against the odds and, seven years on, Thirty Three Boutique has more than ridden out the storm of the 21st-century recession.

“As I am now well-established, and – particularly since I launched my website – I do get inundated with brands and agencies,” says Davies. “But while I change my brand mix to stay fresh and maintain customer interest, there are core labels that sell well for me and I will always support them as they have supported me. Then of course there are the labels that told me they would only speak to me after I had been in business for two years – I never went back!”

Despite her ongoing loyalty, however, Davies isn’t one to shy away from moving with the times. This season has seen Thirty Three Boutique take on several new spring collections from premium trade show Scoop, while the store will also increase its offer of skirts for the new season in line with customer feedback. From a business perspective, Davies also invested into the store’s online presence in March 2012.

“The talk at the time was all bricks and clicks to survive, so I decided to invest into a decent website,” says Davies. “I’d say it has been important, but not necessarily essential; local customers use it to browse but still shop in-store and, although it has brought me new customers – particularly from overseas – what it has really brought me is a lot of extra work!”

Work is something, though, that comes as no surprise to someone who has worked tirelessly against the odds to establish a thriving business during some of the toughest conditions the industry has ever seen.

“I’m content with the small but successful business I have developed,” says Davies. “Even when I am ready to retire, I would always look to sell Thirty Three Boutique as a growing concern.”

23 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

RETAIL PROFILES —

THE EXPANDING BUSINESS

THE NEW START-UP Sheila Torres and Nicola Garside opened White Ribbon in Northwich in May this year. The mother-and-daughter set-up has established a core base of consumers in the Cheshire town, as well as a loyal following via the store’s Facebook page.

With backgrounds in buying and merchandising and high-end fashion retail respectively, Torres and Garside felt that opening a womenswear boutique of their own was a natural progression. They took the plunge earlier this year and, five months on, they both feel that they made the right decision as the business continues to go from strength to strength. “It was a massive gamble,” says Torres. “But, as I live in a village close to Northwich, I had every faith that trade would return following the recession, and the people of Northwich have welcomed a ladies’ boutique with open arms.”

It’s a modern-day fairy tale that is testament to the ongoing recovery of the economy, but it’s one that would not be bound for a happy ending without some very modern approaches to fashion retail. “We think that social media is very positive when used correctly,” says Torres, who posts new collections as daily outfit posts online, generating a substantial customer response and requests to buy from the store’s 1,300 followers. “Besides Facebook and our printed carrier bags, we haven’t got any other marketing because we are in a fab location, and word of mouth ensures that customers get to us.”

For brands, meanwhile, the launch of a new store is perhaps something to embrace rather than steer clear of, as Torres has discovered during her first few months of trading. “Suppliers have been hit by the recession, too,” says Torres. “Our backgrounds helped brands to have confidence in us and we already had some contacts – and of course there is always pro forma – but I think suppliers are more supportive of new set-ups than they have been.”

In line with the national efforts to stimulate the recovery of local town centres – a phenomenon that has arisen following the recession – the store’s local council has also been supportive of the White Ribbon venture.

“Northwich had formerly been very run down, and Cheshire West Council is committed to turning around its fortunes so that it mirrors a mini Chester,” says Torres.

“What we would like to see now is more support from the government as a fledgling business; a six month rates-free period for all commercial properties would have made a massive difference to us during our start-up months.”

Having opened womenswear boutique Cuckoo Clothing in Cambridge in 2006, Michelle Veenman expanded the business in 2011 with the introduction of a second store, also in the city.

The shop retails brands including Katya Wildman, Great Plains, Odd Molly, Adini and Masai.

Located in the idyllic setting of a working organic farm five miles west of Cambridge centre, Cuckoo Clothing is somewhat of a one-off when it comes to womenswear retail. The store, which opened in Burwash Manor in 2006, sits alongside a cluster of independent art and craft shops and a tea room, attracting customers who make a day of shopping and see the store as a destination in itself.

Three years ago, however, owner Michelle Veenman took the decision to open a sister store in the more conventional setting of Cambridge city centre. Despite the tough trading conditions of the time both stores are now thriving and, according to Veenman, the venture has been an interesting insight into the evolving shopping habits of the 21st century consumer.

“There is a certain demographic of consumer that enjoys driving out and taking advantage of free and stress-free parking and making a day of shopping as an activity,” says Veenman. “It’s a relaxed and enjoyable atmosphere and, in our experience, customers commit to purchases on the day because there are no other fashion shops in the vicinity.”

Veenman’s experiences echo recent statistics that out-of-town shopping centres are the only destinations to have seen an increase in footfall this year – a statistic that averages out at 3.2 per cent month-on-month during 2014. Despite this, however, she took the decision to expand the business into a city centre location three years ago, and has been equally as successful with the new venture.

“I only had the confidence to open the second store because I had taken on my business partner Kate Bols, and we agreed that customers wanted more brands and more choice,” says Veenman. “It was experimental at first but, three years on, we have two distinct demographics across the two sites and an increasing element of cross-over between the two.”

It’s something that both owners keep in mind when buying in London, Berlin and – as of next season – Copenhagen. “I dream about clothes at the height of season,” says Veenman. “It’s intense and hard work but we still enjoy it, and that’s essential in every aspect of retail.”

SOLE SEARCHING MODA FOOTWEAR BROUGHT TOGETHER THE SECTOR’S MUSTHAVE BRANDS FROM URBAN STYLE TO EVENING GLAMOUR. WWB SOUGHT OUT THE KEY TRENDS FOR SPRING AS SEEN AT THE AUGUST EVENT.

Photographs www.chrisharveyphoto.com 07549 811066 Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

BIRKENSTOCK – £28, 01889 505637

CAPRICE – £17.95, 07734 247669

METALLIC STYLE WAS REFLECTED IN HIGH SHINE THIS SEASON AS BRANDS ADDED DEPTH AND SHIMMER TO DESIGNS WITH METALLIC FINISHES.

PETER KAISER – £51.80, 0049 63317160

YOKONO – £22, 020 7627 4123

RAPISARDI – £26.65, 01934 710171

MODA IN PELLE – £34.95, 0113 200 7360

HOLSTER – £13.50, 07436 091060

IPANEMA – £9.75, 01992 769612

EMBELLISHMENT JEWELS, BEADS AND CRYSTALS ADDED AN INTRICATE TWIST TO MUST-HAVE SPRING STYLES AS BRANDS ACROSS THE WOMEN’S FOOTWEAR SECTOR EMBELLISHED THE STORY.

LACEY’S LONDON – £21.99, 020 7739 0398

PACOMENA BY MENBUR – £22, 0034 958436492

MARCO TOZZI – £10.50, 0049 523160501

MODA IN PELLE – £23.95, 0113 200 7360

MARCO TOZZI – £10.50, 0049 523160501

MEL DREAMED BY MELISSA – £10.75, 020 7377 2570

LACEY WEAVES LACEY TEXTURES AND WOVEN UPPERS WERE PREVALENT ACROSS THE FULL SPECTRUM OF STYLES FOR SPRING FROM JELLY FLATS TO GIRLY ESPADRILLES.

FLOSSY – £18, 020 736 1102

MUSTANG – £14.90, 07974 155274

CAPRICE – £24, 07734 247609

BRONX – £14.60, 0031 416562600

FaBs – £14.45, 01785 662102

Bio rock By HengsT – £5.10, 01785 662102

MOULDED FOOTBEDS COMFORT AND STYLE COLLIDED FOR SPRING, WITH MOULDED FOOTBEDS TAKING CENTRE STAGE AS ONE OF THE MOST WEARABLE TRENDS OF THE SEASON.

BirkensTock – £36, 01889 505637

TaMaris – £13.50, 07810 560885

BrakeBurn – £25, 01202 338500

Mjus – €45.80, 07935 648070

Flossy – £10.80, 020 736 1102

Blink – £10.50, 0031 416562600

TROPICAL PRINTS EXOTIC FLOWERS AND PALM TREES STAKED THEIR CLAIM ON SUMMER AS THE EVER-PREVALENT ANIMAL PRINT FINALLY GAVE WAY TO COLOURFUL DESIGNS WITH A TROPICAL TWIST.

musTang – £21.50, 07974 155274

Toni Pons – €23, 020 8744 2800

ska – £31.12, 01934 710171

Tamaris – £16.75, 07810 560885

32 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

FOOTWEAR NEWS —

WELL HEELED Footwear leads the way for s/s 15, as the season kicks off with the launch of directional new collections across the full spectrum of the shoe sector.

— ▲ KAT MACONIE Kat Maconie takes inspiration from the simplistic lines of the minimalist era and marries it with the softer direction of the post-minimalist 60s period for spring. The result is gold hardwear and organic geometric shapes, complemented by striking block colours of candy pink, coral, pearl mint and grey.

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LISA KAY London label Lisa Kay maintains its focus on detailing and embellishment across its latest spring collection, which features intricate finishes in jewels and gems across a wide range of silhouettes.

In line with the brand’s commitment to wearability, wedges are prevalent across the range, while each shoe is designed for contemporary city life without any compromise to style.

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EMU

TONI PONS

Towering, leg-lengthening heels are given a comfort makeover for spring, as Emu presents its refined egg-shaped heel as part of its new Highrise collection.

Elsewhere in the spring range, wearable flats, low-rise summer boots and comfort ballet flats featuring pressure-point support all take their place within the Australian brand’s latest offer.

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The spring collection from Toni Pons comprises three key stories – Originals, Edition and Essential – spanning espadrilles in classic, premium and everyday styles respectively. The Spanish brand maintains its commitment to quality with its special selection of materials.

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33 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

FOOTWEAR NEWS —

FLOSSY Handmade in Rioja, Spain, Flossy has a heritage stretching back over three decades.

This season sees the brand once again combine its ethics of traditional craftsmanship with contemporary styles, an approach that has seen the label become an essential on the Ibiza scene. Specifically, shimmering metallic, woven uppers and exotic prints are all prevalent for s/s 15.

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▲ AIGLE

HÖGL Dazzling whites, glittering silvers, bright greys and subtle nudes are brought together across a portfolio of summer styles this season as Austrian label Högl unveils its latest offer. Soft leathers in a lacquer or metallic finish are combined with Swarovski embellishment across a range of heel heights from flat ballerinas to chunky summer heels.

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Aigle joins forces with fellow French brand Paul & Joe this season to create a nine-piece ready-to-wear collection. Accompanying the launch is The Secret Garden, a collection of rubber boots whose design is inspired by the idiosyncrasy of Alice in Wonderland imagery.

— KICKERS Kickers unveils its Sweetheart collection this season, taking inspiration from 90s film Clueless with its T-bar and slingback silhouettes in ice cream colours. Pretty pastels are toughened up with chunky shapes, while soft nubuck and glossy patent leathers add textural depth to the range.

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TED BAKER

VOLCOM

PETER KAISER

Chic neutrals and soft pastels are juxtaposed with glimmering metallic sheens this season as Ted Baker opts for an understated contemporary vibe across its s/s 15 collection.

The brand applies the Midas touch to its key styles with a focus of metallic embellishment, adding a glamorous edge to an otherwise laid-back offer.

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Skate and surf brand Volcom presents its latest footwear offer designed to complement its core apparel range this s/s 15. Key styles for the new season include the brand’s Backstage sandal and Getter boot, both of which are designed to inspire the wearer to discover the outside world.

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German brand Peter Kaiser brings contemporary style to comfortable footwear with its latest range of women’s styles. Block colours are prevalent throughout the range, with many styles complemented by co-ordinating accessories. In line with the label’s extensive heritage, each style is made in Europe’s oldest footwear factory in Germany’s Rhineland area.

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34 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

FOOTWEAR NEWS —

COCOROSE Highlights from the spring collection by Cocorose include sports-luxe metallic features, pastel hues, colour-pop ballerinas and tribal-inspired detailing. The brand’s signature foldable slip-ons are joined by festival boots and gladiators as the label diversifies for spring, offering one of its most eclectic collections to date.

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▲ BUCKETFEET Bringing together the complementary realms of fashion and art, Bucketfeet is based upon the philosophy of applying works of art to comfortable canvas footwear.

Now in its third year, the brand has established a network of over 2,000 artists hailing from 35 countries who have lent their designs to the label to create an ever-diversifying range of styles.

— MJUS Italian footwear label Mjus introduces 500 new materials and colours into its new s/s 15 collection, making for one of its most diverse offers to date. Conventional summer designs are elevated to Mjus styles with the brand’s unique handwriting, which is applied across a range of sandals, ankle boots, pumps and sneakers.

— ▲ ROCKET DOG US footwear brand Rocket Dog returns for s/s 15 with a range inspired by the brand’s Californian heritage. The Sunny Side Up story incorporates a vibrant colour palette with retro 70s influences, while new silhouettes including slingback sandals and espadrilles keep the collection up-to-date.

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36 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

SHORT ORDER —

RIGHT HERE RIGHT NOW WWB ROUNDS UP THE MUST-HAVE SELECTION OF BRANDS OFFERING SHORT-ORDER COLLECTIONS FOR A/W 14.

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MOTEL ROCKS Established: 1999 Moody florals, rock-inspired leopard and monochrome lace form the key prints this autumn as London label Motel Rocks builds upon its identity as a global fashion brand. Dresses and separates are equally prevalent throughout the range, alongside sequined playsuits, which add a contemporary twist to seasonal partywear.

Wholesale prices: £7-£35 www.motelrocks.com

PAPER DOLLS

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Established: 2013 Contemporary fashion label Paper Dolls achieves a powerful day look this season with a range of sharp silhouettes including flattering bodycons, tailored two-pieces and structured jumpsuits. Statement prints complete the look, while the brand’s signature lace detailing prevails for the new season.

Wholesale prices: £18-£30 www.little-mistress.co.uk

BELLFIELD

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Established: 2011 Texture is the focus for Bellfield this autumn as the brand takes staple knitwear and outerwear designs and elevates them into contemporary pieces with allusions to 90s streetwear style.

Denim parkas, high-shine puffas and soft-feel velour tees all feature within the range, which is manufactured using the label’s traditional approach to high-quality workmanship.

Wholesale prices: £6-£26.50 www.justconsultancies.co.uk

37 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

SHORT ORDER — VOODOO VIXEN  Established: 2012 Vintage-inspired label Voodoo Vixen fuses retro, pin-up and rockabilly style with contemporary designs for modern day glamour.

This season sees luxurious satins and rich velvets take centre stage, while a colour palette of burgundy, deep blue and antique pink gives a nod to the more subdued identity of the autumn season.

Wholesale prices: £7.95-£19.95 www.onedirectionclothing.com

FRIDAY ON MY MIND

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Established: 2010 Founded on a philosophy to deliver the fun factor to the fashion sector, Friday on My Mind presents an autumn collection designed around silhouettes from the 60s. Bodycon is the focus for dresses, while swing and cape styles in wool are prevalent across the brand’s outerwear offer. Flowers, checks and spots, meanwhile, supply the Friday on My Mind signature vibrancy.

Wholesale prices: £10-£60 www.eucalyptusclothing.co.uk

RARE LONDON

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Established: 1999 The a/w 14 collection from Rare London takes inspiration from catwalk trends including heavy embellishments, python prints, feathers, lace, fringing and art-inspired designs. The range comprises stand-out party dresses, statement jumpsuits and matching co-ordinates.

Wholesale prices: £11-£23 www.rarelondon.com

EMILY & FIN

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Established: 2002 The combination of day to evening styles is the focus for Emily & Fin, as the brand moves into autumn amid a rich wintery palette. Taking influences from the past to create directional styles for the present, the London label starts the design process with an emphasis on flattering feminine fits and applies modern prints for a modern autumn range.

Wholesale prices: £10-£30 www.emilyandfin.co.uk >>>

38 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

SHORT ORDER —

GIRLS ON FILM  Established: 2014 Bold, printed co-ordinates form the style hallmark for Girls on Film this autumn as the brand unveils a directional collection designed to offer versatility from daywear to weekend pursuits. This season also sees the launch of the label’s debut outerwear offer, which is defined by oversized coats in graphic checks, leopard-print designs and cosy faux furs.

Wholesale prices: £8.50-£25 www.little-mistress.co.uk

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JOIN CLOTHES

Established: 1997 Greek label Join Clothes unveils a treasure trove of jewel shades for autumn, applying a dramatic colour palette to an equally rich range of sumptuous textures.

Incorporating the brand’s signature elements of luxe layering, the designs offer the versatility of being combined with each other as well as being created as standalone pieces.

Wholesale prices: ¤20-¤200. www.joinclothes.gr —

SWISH COLLECTION Established: 2013 Best known for its contemporary knitwear ranges, Swish Collection returns for autumn with a comprehensive range of tunics and tops alongside skirts, trousers and dresses.

Jersey fabrics and light knits in keeping with the brand’s philosophy of creating fluid lines that complement the silhouette.

Wholesale prices: £25-£39 www.kc-agency.com

LITTLE MISTRESS

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Established: 2006 Little Mistress presents another show-stopping range this autumn with the launch of its Step into the Night collection. The latest offer ranges from prom dresses to girly daywear and statement jumpsuits.

Wholesale prices: £19-£37 www.little-mistress.co.uk >>>

Quality Luxury Heritage Made in Scotland

T: 01450 363100 E: sales@hawickknitwear.com www.hawickknitwear.com

40 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

SHORT ORDER — RAGGED ROBIN

POPPY LUX Established: 2013 Parisian style is encapsulated through soft pastels juxtaposed with monochrome this season, as Poppy Lux explores the boundaries of contemporary style and classic femininity.

Silhouettes are suitably fluid, while polka dots, florals and pussy bows add the brand’s signature look to the latest collection.

Wholesale prices: £8-£16 www.sugarhillboutique.com

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Established: 2012 Ragged Robin presents In the Woods this autumn - a collection comprising jersey tees featuring illustrations by UK artist Amber Elise. Printed in Bristol’s Screen One studio, the range has a distinctly quirky British vibe, brought to life in a seasonal colour palette of deep plums, rich teals and smoky greys.

Wholesale prices: £10-£18 www.raggedrobinuk.com

WIZARD JEANS

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PAKO LITTO

Established: 2007 Relaxed urban femininity is the key look for French label Pako Litto, and this autumn the brand focuses on applying its authentic French chic style to a range of seasonal basics.

Chalk, blueberry and midnight blue form the core colours of the autumnal palette, while large mesh sweaters and military coats add the urban element to the feminine range.

Wholesale prices: £6-£40 www.doublehagency.com —

Established: 2009 Wizard Jeans diversifies this season with its offer of jackets and accessories designed to complement its essential jeans which are designed to flatter any figure. Deep indigo blue is the key shade for autumn in a straight leg silhouette created to suit all body shapes.

Wholesale prices: £37-£65 www.wizardjeans.com —

43 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

ACCESSORIES TRENDS —

The trend:

DELICATE CHARMS After the ubiquitous chunky charm bracelet of last season, charms take on a more delicate nature for s/s 15, as tiny motifs and discreet slogans offer a more subtle means of expressing the wearer’s personality.

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BELONG Belong’s handmade selection of jewellery includes an entire story dedicated to delicate charms. Wish Upon a Charm features tiny leaf shapes, floral designs and butterfly silhouettes in a tribute to the natural beauty of floral and fauna.

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MARMOO Designed and produced in Wiltshire, Marmoo lends its signature style to each piece through the dual use of sterling silver and wood.

Delicate charms are the brand’s speciality, with tiny bird charms particularly prevalent across the label’s spring collection.

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ALEX MONROE Alex Monroe’s thoughtful delicacy comes into its own this season as the brand diversifies its tiny charm offer. Haberdashery is a key focus for the label, comprising miniature scissors and needle-and-thread designs in a range of mixed metal finishes for a contemporary look.

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LILY & LOTTY Presenting a range of charmingly detailed jewellery for the new spring season, Lily & Lotty specialises in intricate designs bearing subtle messages. The brand is a family run set-up based on the beaches of South Devon.

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NARRATE The ongoing popularity of the charm trend can be attributed to the personal aspect of each piece, and Narrate creates a relationship between wearer and jewellery through the meaningful words subtly included within each design.

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KATE HAMILTON-HUNTER Created from upcycled materials such as biscuit and cake tins and silver, the Kate Hamilton-Hunter collection specialises in dainty jewellery embellished with Swarovski crystals. Inspiration is wide-ranging, with woodland culture, fairies, hearts and birds all appearing within the brand’s latest collection.

—

>>>

44 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

ACCESSORIES TRENDS —

The trend:

PASTELS Across the spectrum of accessories from scarves to handbags, soft pastel shades add an ethereal hue to s/s 15 fashion.

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BECKSONDERGAARD A virtual road trip across the States provides the inspiration for Becksondergaard’s spring collection, which alludes to New Mexico’s desert, rose sunsets and the varied flora and fauna of America’s rich culture. Pastels are prevalent throughout the range, which features scarves as well as handbags.

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REBECCA MINKOFF Rebecca Minkoff’s Resort collection takes inspiration from hazy summer days on the island of Ibiza, encapsulating the whimsical colour palette of the sand and the skies in its latest range of summer handbags. Seafoam green is a key shade for the brand, complemented by bright colour pops of tangerine elsewhere in the wider collection.

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PASSIGATTI Renowned for its varied selection of scarves season after season, German accessories label Passigatti doesn’t fail to deliver for s/s 15. The brand unveils a candy selection of prints, perfectly in-keeping with the pastel trend and applied across a range of scarves and shawls in light summer chiffons and silks.

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BULAGGI Dutch handbag label Bulaggi adopts three style directions for the new spring season – Delicate, Exotic and Artistic. Lending itself perfectly to the brand’s Delicate and Artistic stories, the pastel trend adds a whimsical element to Bulaggi’s latest range, which features its signature feminine shapes for versatile day bags.

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BIG METAL Statement designs have always been at the core of Big Metal’s style philosophy, but this season sees the London accessories label soften some of its key lines with feminine candy colours.

Intricacy is still key for the brand, with layers of delicate embellishment contributing to the statement factor within each piece.

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LOVE MY SOUL New accessories label Love My Soul arrives in the UK this season, revealing a range of contemporary leather handbags designed to take the wearer from the working day to the weekend. Pastels feature within the brand’s debut colour palette, alongside bolder block colours.

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>>>

46 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

ACCESSORIES TRENDS —

The trend:

POINTS From arrows to spears, definitive points are marking their territory across jewellery styles this spring.

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KATIE ROWLAND Having been founded on the philosophy of adding an edge to elegance in 2011, jewellery label Katie Rowland embraces the trend for sharp silhouettes into its fierce designs. The brand’s spring offer is created predominantly in rose gold, black rhodium and diamonds, making for a contemporary collection for s/s 15.

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EA BURNS Designed around an ethos of being driven to explore, EA Burns embraces the trend of arrows that lead the proverbial way. The brand, which was established in 2011, is 100 per cent designed and made in the UK by skilled jewellers in its London workshop.

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SYDNEY EVAN Combining luxury jewellery with fashion-forward designs, Sydney Evan is renowned as a trend-setting label, and presents a comprehensive collection for spring in diamonds, coloured sapphires and gemstones. The brand’s spike earrings in rose gold with diamond embellishment are bang on trend for spring.

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BABETTE WASSERMAN Babette Wasserman’s Tricorn necklace is available in three colourways, and perfectly encapsulates the trend for pointed silhouettes. The London label was established 12 years ago, and each collection is created at its studio in Notting Hill.

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WOLF & MOON Created in wood, metal and Perspex, Wolf & Moon designs focus heavily on strong, geometric shapes softened by ethereal pastel shades. The brand’s triangular earrings allude to the art deco period while embodying the spring trend for sharp lines.

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I LOVE A LASSIE Newly launched Scottish jewellery label I Love a Lassie presents six key stories for spring. The brand’s thorn necklace alludes to a traditional Scottish garden and is inspired by the sharpness of nature, and the patience require to pick the rose without being scratched by the thorn.

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47 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

ACCESSORIES TRENDS —

The trend:

INDUSTRIAL Adding a darker element to spring styles, burnished metals, exposed gems and distressed leather finishes add a raw edge to contemporary accessories.

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NADIA MINKOFF Nadia Minkoff’s cushion stone bracelet in the dramatic Golden Shadow colourway complies with the trend for dulled raw metal and exposed gemstones. Created to add sparkle in the subtlest of ways, the bracelet is designed to be layered with complementary pieces from the wider range.

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BETH GILMOUR London Fashion Week exhibitor Beth Gilmour presents a statement jewellery collection this season, created via dramatic bi-coloured gemstones, whose naturally occurring hues are echoed in each style’s intricate gold settings.

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GESTUZ Danish brand Gestuz presents its In Her Element collection this spring, pushing the boundaries of texture and complementing each finish with a vivid colour palette. The raw edge within the brand’s accessories offer is created through a modern distressed finish, making a style statement of imperfectly finished leather.

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I LOVE A LASSIE The Bawbee Coin range by Scottish label I Love a Lassie alludes to the old Scottish halfpenny, and fits perfectly into the trend for raw, unfinished jewellery with its rough edges and dulled metal sheen.

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SAM UBHI Pushing the boundaries of unfinished design, Sam Ubhi presents a collection of brass cocktail rings, featuring exposed gemstones in raw cuts. The statement style is complemented by a range of equally dramatic designs elsewhere in the collection including Tibetan-inspired styles and brass and silver dual finishes.

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JAMIE LONDON Rough, burnished metal provides a stark contrast to the recent trend for super-polished rose and yellow golds. Jamie London juxtaposes the rough finish with feminine pearls for a modern take on a traditional classic.

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48 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

REVIEW —

MODA WOMAN Last month saw Moda Woman play host to a diverse selection of leading names from the womenswear sector. WWB picked out some of the key trends from the event, which took place at Birmingham’s NEC.

JAMES LAKELAND

MASAI

FOIL

BATIDA

NATALI SILHOUETTE

VINTA DEFINITA

EVA TRALALA

STEILMANN

VARGO

ABSTRACT FLORALS Spring flowers were given a contemporary edge as abstract twists blurred the boundaries of the seasonal floral trend.

SUZY D

TONI

STEILMANN

FOIL

MARBLE

MARIE MERO

MASAI

ELISA CAVALETTI

PARKHURST

LATTE

LIGHT KNITS Summer layers were the focus for a host of womenswear brands this season, with light knits proving popular across the board.

49 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

REVIEW —

MARBLE

VARGO

LILY & ME

SUZY D

EVA TRALALA

ELISA CAVALETTI

MASAI

STEILMANN

ALICE & BARNABE

LATTE

RAKHI

NEUTRAL HUES Flattering shades of coffee, cream and pink were prevalent across this season’s offer, adding a wearable and stylish element to s/s 15.

VARGO

MARBLE

JAMES LAKELAND

TARA VAO

ADC

LATTE

ELISA CAVALETTI

VINTA DEFINITA

LILY & ME

DEEP CORAL The ever-popular hue of summery coral adopted a deeper, more intense tone across the full spectrum of womenswear collections.

50 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

REVIEW —

MODA ACCESSORIES From handbags to jewellery, the little add-ons played a big role for s/s 15, as Moda Accessories presented a selection of must-have labels at Birmingham’s NEC last month.

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ANH & ART

CASA DI STELLA

DENTS

Unveiling new designs for its third season, Anh & Art returned to Moda with its latest offer of canvas bags, featuring the brand’s signature suede appliqué detailing. Leaf, cat and dog shapes were introduced across the new collection, which comprised a range of handy satchel and handbag silhouettes for a range of occasions.

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Silicone offered a contemporary and practical element to this season’s range of handbags by Austrian accessories label Casa di Stella. Other textures within the collection included woven finishes across the brand’s range of beach bags, while the colour palette was suitably summery with acid brights and pastel shades alluding to spring.

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British accessories label Dents added a contemporary twist to its signature range of fine leather gloves with a diversified colour palette of summer brights. Elsewhere in the collection, the brand’s selection of accessories for women and men remained true to the brand’s heritage, which stretches back to its inception in 1777.

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ELIZA GRACIOUS

JEWELCITY

PEACH

Returning to Adorned with its latest collection of directional yet wearable jewellery, accessories label Eliza Gracious unveiled more designs in leather, enamel and metal at this season’s Moda. Each piece is created to stand alone or be worn alongside complementary designs, offering a range of merchandising opportunities to the retailer.

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Accessories label Jewelcity showcased a diversified collection this season, spanning handbags, scarves and contemporary jewellery in a variety of leather and metal finishes. Texture and colour were the focus within the brand’s handbag line, while scarves benefitted from a wide range of eye-catching prints.

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Peach Accessories returned to Moda with a range of handbags in elegant and contemporary silhouettes with a focus on high shine finishes. The brand produces each design in limited numbers to maintain an element of exclusivity across its range of bags, shawls, headwear and occasion footwear.

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52 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

REVIEW —

FROM THE FROW

Toga

House of Holland

Rejina

Holly Fulton

Following the s/s 15 edition of London Fashion Week last month, Victoria Jackson highlights some of the key trends to emerge from the capital’s finest design talent.

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Giles Deacon

Eudon Choi

Huishan Zhang

Mother of Pearl

While dresses were a wardrobe staple for the summer season just gone, the new season will see separates reign king. Midi lengths returned to the runway, with both fuller silhouettes and pencil styles dominating, while maxis took a backseat in comparison to seasons past. In terms of newness, artistic prints and textures offered interesting updates, such as multi-coloured horizontal stripes at Fyodor Golan, geometric prints found at Rejina and watercolour paint inspired surface patterns at Toga. Texture, meanwhile, came from patchwork crochet panelling at House of Holland and 3D floral applique detailing at Holly Fulton.

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Fyodor Golan

ARTISTIC REIGN

Orla Kiely

DELICATE TOUCH While pastel tones are hardly ground-breaking for spring, delicate shades continued to be a popular runway option for many designers this summer. Paler candy floss tones were spotted throughout, with soft feminine silhouettes, seen in 40s tea dresses at Eudon Choi and romantic prom style dress from Huishan Zhang, juxtaposed with sportier designs at Mother of Pearl – which presented a series of pink bomber jacket and skirt co-ords. Giles Deacon, meanwhile, added an interesting edge with pink feather print playsuits, while Orla Kiely used pink throughout her 70s-inspired collection in the shape of floral jacquard midi skirts.

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Issa

Holly Fulton

REVIEW —

Eudon Choi

House of Holland

53 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

Richard Nicoll

Issa

Fyodor Golan

Toga

In terms of colour, one of the most prominent trends to emerge from s/s 15 was monochrome, with striking oversized black and white prints featuring throughout. Statement dresses were where the timeless colour palette made the most impact, with designers such as Giles Deacon and Holly Fulton showcasing floor-length event dresses. And while Fulton retained her signature geometric symmetrical pattern, Deacon chose a black-and-white photographic tiger print. House of Holland was as playful as ever, presenting white monochrome logo tees and zebra print mini dresses, while Issa and Eudon Choi favoured large graphic florals.

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Giles Deacon

MONOCHROMATIC

Danielle Romeril

SHEER PERFECTION Light and airy fabrications made a strong statement this London Fashion Week, as sheer panelling and see-through garments made their way down the catwalk. While Richard Nicoll stuck with a classic sheer overlay through his collection, the likes of Toga and Fyodor Golan went futuristic with luxe shine organza and architectural shapes. A more unusual design was presented by Issa, however, with a clean and simplistic sheer midi-length dress, while Danielle Romeril showcased a full skirt in organza complete with camo print.

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54 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

RETAIL DIARY This August was a busy buying season for us.

We joined FAB at Pure, where I also sat on a panel session, discussing the buying process, which I thoroughly enjoyed.

When we arrived at Moda we were overwhelmed and excited by the new feel of the show – the layout, stands and brands really inspired us, so much so that we were encouraged to stray slightly off our usual conservative course and embrace some new and far more contemporary styles. Artichoke’s customer is countryside-orientated, and our niche has evolved from a gap in the market for a conservatively dressed 40-plus woman in that environment. As we’ve developed their loyalty, their trust in us has grown, so we felt confident to introduce them to something new. We didn’t attend Moda specifically on a mission to pick up new collections, but we ended up placing orders with four new suppliers. One of the new accounts was with James Lakeland, which is radically contemporary for us. We were particularly impressed with his strategy of reserving exclusive styles for the wholesale division, since we’ve had a few disappointments in the past in terms of exclusivity. The relationship we have with our suppliers is important to us, and James Lakeland appears to understand our fragile position as a retailer. We find that by dealing with the head office and placing orders at the shows, we can secure more direct commitment and guarantees of exclusivity. I feel that many independents live in fear of their suppliers, terrified about laying out the terms on which they wish to do business. It’s for this reason, among others, that we plan to visit Berlin for some of next summer’s buying. I’ve begun trawling B2B websites, and I’m excited about the prospect. I think it will give us access to a wider pool of brands and will be a way of sourcing some unique and exclusive collections. We understand the Artichoke customer and know what they are looking for, so we shall continue hunting until we find the right brands for them.

— Sarah Simonds is the owner of Artichoke Collection womenswear emporium in Hackford, Norfolk. Artichoke Collection is a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB). www.fashionassociationof britain.co.uk

FORUM —

RETAIL FORUM

The latest news from the industry —

FRESH LOOK FOR KAKAO BY K

NEW STORE DESIGN CONCEPT FOR RADLEY Radley announces the roll-out of a new concept across stores in the UK and internationally.

The handbag brand will make the change to its stores over the next 12 months, housing new categories such as watches and eyewear. Newly designed service points will incorporate in-store iPads, offering customers a click and collect facility. Lucie Watkins, head of creative, says, “From the brick walls to the lamp posts and cast-iron railings, we have tried to bring a little bit of London into each of our stores.”

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Using fixtures and fittings inherited from a previous shop location, the Edinburgh store has recently undergone a refit, welcoming a new design.

Drawing inspiration from contemporary Scandinavian style, the new store carries a distinct minimalist feel to reflect an overall calm, stylish and timeless design. Owner Karina Baldorf says, “Changing the space has not only had a positive effect on our customers, but also on the staff, who feel a new sense of inspiration.”

Light painted woods and whitewash walls create an open, bright space in-store, while the shop’s shopping bags and exterior were updated to feature the new white and gold signature colours.

In contrast to the front of the store, the rear is decorated with a soft rug and tonal velvet curtains around the fitting rooms.

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55 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

FORUM —

GIRLMEETSDRESS.COM LAUNCHES SHOWROOM The leading online rental service has opened a new showroom in London’s Battersea.

Now taking showroom appointments, customers can browse the selection of designer dresses and still rent for less than 10 per cent of the retail price. The showroom holds over 4,000 dresses by around 150 designer brands, which can be taken away on the day or booked for a future event.

Appointments can be made from Monday to Friday at the Battersea London showroom, where customers can also make use of trained stylists.

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BIRA HITS THE ROAD The British Independent Retailers Association (Bira) toured Britain recently to offer free advice and support to independent retailers.

Visiting towns across the UK, the informal evening roadshows ran until 8 October. With the aim of helping indie retailers network with other businesses, traders had the chance to learn more about Bira’s services. Sarah Arnesen, Bira’s head of marketing and events, says, “We designed the sessions to be short, valuable and practical and, instead of asking local retailers to visit us in a one national location, we came to their towns to try to be as helpful as we can at their convenience.”

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MY LAST PURCHASE “My last purchase was the Traction Jumpsuit from Day Birger et Mikkelsen. It is a slim-leg black crepe jumpsuit with gold button detail and short sleeves. I bought this to wear to an industry event as I wanted something easy to wear to the show and then dress up with heels for the event afterwards. I do have a bit of a weakness for jumpsuits – there are definitely more than one or two in my wardrobe. I find them really easy to style up or down with flats or heels and they DERYANE TADD is the owner are super comfy too when running around and director of The Dressing shows or buying appointments. Anyway, it was a Room, a womenswear boutique great success, and I am thrilled to say that we in St Albans, Herts. won our category of Best Independent Retailer – which was amazing, and I have loved wearing the jumpsuit since!”

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WHAT MERCHANDISING STYLE HAVE YOU GONE FOR THIS AUTUMN?

“For winter, we have DEBRA MCCANN Owner, The Mercantile bought quite heavily London, Spitalfields into the check trend,

opting for dusky tones to mix in with a neutral palette. Our rails are print and texture heavy, producing an eclectic end result with lots of soft modal, draping jersey, rich wools and luxe cashmere.”

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ANNAMARIA QUINN Owner, Katwalk Casa, Royal Wootton Bassett, Wiltshire

“Emerging international brands with bold Dutch design and Mediterranean style and colours. Also, retro dresses in new dimensional prints, accessorised with handbags from Germany with strong, funky designs.”

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KAREN FRESHWATER Owner, Kaza’s Boutique, Maldon, Essex

“I love our unique, stylish collections of fashion and accessories, flowing tops in block colours of cream with orange and multicolour monogram tops. All can be accompanied with our black or blue skinny jeans.”

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“We have used branded TIFFANY MOORE Owner, Renes Lapelle, merchandising, Lancaster, Lancashire highlighting with vibrant berry colours that are very on trend this a/w 14. Not forgetting the key must haves, such as the classic black-and-white combinations.

Checkmate!”

—

57 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

EXPERTS —

ADVICE Industry experts answer your retail questions —

HOW DO I PROTECT MY BRANDING? Almost all brand owners are aware of the importance of registering their trademarks and the types of signs that are recognised as trademarks such as words, devices, slogans, 3D shapes, smells, colours and sounds. Registration provides the right to enforce their trademark against third parties who use their trademark without consent. However, brand owners should be aware that protection of their brand does not only extend to unauthorised use; they could be their own worst enemy because inaction to protect their own brand – even from themselves – could contribute to its demise.

In the UK and EU, registered trademarks over five years old can be challenged if they have not been used for a continuous period of five years. Companies also need to move with the times. A logo changes over time, but brand owners often forget to update their registrations and this has an impact on whether the trademark (as registered) is being used. Such actions are common place and effective in narrowing brand owners’ rights.

There are a number of simple steps that brand owners can take to ensure that their trademarks remain validly registered and will always be directly associated with their business, including: • Use your registered trademark with the ® symbol • Keep records showing use (examples include invoices, delivery notes, catalogues and advertising material) • If you change the way you use your trademark, you need to register the new version • Always use your trademark together with its generic product (eg Jacuzzi® whirlpool bath) • Never use your trademark as a verb (ie “to google” is wrong) • Always use your trademark in capital letters or otherwise highlighted in some way • Give notice of ownership eg ABC is a registered trademark of company XYZ • Conduct regular internet searches to ensure your trademark is not being used without your consent. A simple way to do this is to set “alerts” or “notifications” • Check trade journals and magazines to ensure your trademark is being correctly used by others • Don’t allow your trademark to appear in a dictionary, as this can be used to challenge your trademark on the basis that it has become generic • Ensure your brand is distinctive and different in the marketplace.

This will help enforce your rights —

Helen Cawley is a partner at D Young & Co

HOW DO I COMPLY WITH REGULATIONS ON COOKIES? An informal review of the websites of various businesses featured recently in trade titles found that only half of these businesses have policies relating to the use of cookies on their websites. Even less have registered with the Information Commissioner’s Office (ICO) as a data controller of personal information.

Why do these issues matter? The use of cookies is regulated in the UK by certain privacy and electronic communication regulations (the Regulations) designed to protect the privacy of internet users. The ICO is responsible for enforcing compliance with the Regulations and has the power to take action where necessary. This includes: (i) Committing a business to a particular course of action in order to improve its compliance with the Regulations (ii) Compelling a business to take action to bring about compliance with the Regulations (iii) Although unlikely, fining a business up to £500,000 But the non-legal consequences of not complying with the Regulations should be of equal concern to businesses.

So what are cookies? Cookies are small files downloaded onto a device such as a computer, tablet or mobile phone when the user accesses certain websites. Cookies collect information about the user’s internet activity. The Regulations apply to all information collected by cookies, including personal data. However, where cookies collect personal data such as the user’s name, postal address or email address, businesses need to ensure that they comply with the additional requirements of the UK Data Protection Act. In addition, any business collecting personal data through its website should have an online privacy policy, setting out the business’ practice in relation to the collection, storage and use of that personal data.

What do you need to do to comply? As a first step, if you have an online presence you should undertake a “cookie audit” to assess the cookies used on your website, and the purposes of each cookie.

Once identified, you will be able to consider more easily how to comply with the Regulations.

Undertaking a cookie audit, establishing an appropriate cookie policy and, where applicable, register with the ICO as a data controller, are steps that every successful business should undertake.

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Laura Lumby is an associate at Fox Williams LLP www.fashionlaw.co.uk, www.foxwilliams.com

58 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

IN-STORE MERCHANDISING —

RETAIL SOLUTIONS WWB takes a look at in-store merchandising for retailers. Staple items are taking the spotlight, with exciting developments coming in the form of new collections and collaborations.

— THE VM SOURCE The VM Source stocks a variety of visual merchandising equipment, specialising in mannequins and display accessories. The supplier stocks fairly priced European Mannequins (pictured), which are known for combining vintage-inspired looks with modernity.

The new Vintage range from European Mannequins welcomes a new collection of 3/4 bust forms with articulated arms and a bust and mannequin leg set combination. With strong attention to detail, the range features a stitched cover, fabric head and fully articulated wooden arms. Mannequin legs come in black, but can be resprayed if required. www.thevmsource.co.uk

DECOWOERNER Europe’s largest retailer and wholesale supplier of visual merchandising and decoration is a one-stop shop for visual accessories and decorative articles. The highlight for this year is the new and improved online shop. With the help of technical enhancements, the new shop offers a better shopping experience due to improved customer interaction, comprehensive information, easier shopping, better support services and a modern website design. The shop has been created around the needs of the customer and includes a wealth of new products and design elements. www.decowoerner.com

PROPORTION LONDON In its latest showroom presentation, Proportion London introduces three new collections – Capsule (pictured), Boudoir and Theory.

In the second showroom, the supplier returns with its popular mannequin and bust form collection Raw. The range has expanded to include additional pieces, and natural materials are introduced to create a simple look. The brand has also teamed up with Almax and will include the Italian mannequin house’s new collections – A by Almax, Nest, Tangled and She – as well as a full range of child mannequins. www.proportionlondon.com

MORPLAN The number one supplier to the UK’s retail and fashion industries stocks over 5,000 products and offers an extensive range, but it’s the brand’s staple item of printed carrier bags that takes the spotlight this season.

For a limited time Morplan will run offers on printed carrier bags, with customers having the option to buy at half the usual minimum-order quantity – great news for retailers looking to stock up for the busy Christmas season. Bags are available in a range of colours – including standard brown and white – and are available with flat or twisted paper handles. www.morplan.com



Garments that won’t hang about.

The steamer that will.

For more information Tel: 020 8417 0660

www.propress.co.uk

60 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

DIRECTORY —

GARMENT STANDS

HEADWEAR

STEAMERS AND IRONS

  

     

    

  

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To advertise please call Sam on

01484 846069

HAT BOXES

or email sam@ras-publishing.com

 

RETAIL SYSTEMS

WANTED

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      

           

        

  

DISPLAYS

To advertise please call Sam on

01484 846069 or email sam@ras-publishing.com

                              



                                           

 

                

  



 

              

62 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — OCTOBER 2014

UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL —

JODIE KIDD British supermodel Jodie Kidd has teamed up with women’s lifestyle label Green Lamb to launch a new range for s/s 15, entitled Green Lamb Jodie Kidd Performance Collection.

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What inspired the collaboration with Green Lamb?

The inspiration was to inject fashion into functional sportswear. I’ve been a fan of Green Lamb golf clothing for a long time, and when they approached me to collaborate on a new performance collection it instantly made sense. We wanted to bridge the gap between mass-market sportswear brands and luxury high-end brands.

What’s your personal style when it comes to your leisure time?

My preference is for a casual yet stylish look. It is really important to look good but also feel comfortable in what you’re wearing when it comes to leisure time.

What was the biggest challenge you overcame in designing for the range?

Honestly, we had a blank canvas to begin with. We discussed a lot of ideas, shared our favourite performance pieces and got to a place where we all agreed on the direction. We saw three major challenges when it came to creating this collection; every piece had to look great and be right on trend in terms of fashion. But that wasn’t enough; the fit had to be great for British women and, finally, all garments have to really perform.

What has been your favourite aspect of designing for Green Lamb?

The designers are young women who work out just as I do and, like a lot of women today, they insist on looking stylish when doing it. Most of all, it was a lot of fun collaborating on the collection and being part of that process.

What sort of women are you targeting with this collection?

It is really exciting because it is such a challenge launching into a new market with Green Lamb. We are targeting women who want performance fitness clothing first and foremost. I suppose the best way to put it is women who don’t necessarily want to wear the mass-market sports brands all the time – I hope we added a bit of fashion to the collection that isn’t available in stores today.

What’s in the pipeline for you?

The Green Lamb designers and I are going to share ideas really soon, and will begin to design the autumn/winter 2015 collection. We’re looking at fabrics and performance of those fabrics very closely, so I am expecting lots of prototype garments coming my way to test out.

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INSIDER: — Who is your style icon?

Audrey Hepburn is the ultimate style idol. Even my mum agrees with me on this one!

— Which fashion business do you admire and why?

I am working with a number of British and Irish fashion companies including Green Lamb, Debrett’s and Jaeger, and I really admire all of these businesses.

— What’s the one item you cannot live without?

My iPad. I couldn’t be without it while I am travelling.

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