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contributors Raen Badua, Rendy Mahardhika, Nathaniel White @ Nene L.A. Shiro, Eric Vosburg, Justin Arrellano, Alexandra & Anna @ FRAME Models NYC, Camilla Camaglia, Sandra Flöther, Albina @ Indeed Model Management, Kimberly Capriotti, Molly Haring, Nazy Alvarez, Kelly Lane, Halle @ Agency Galatea, Olivia Park, Chris Rushton, Brent Seward, Samantha Pessognelli,
Sanne Grasdijk, Elise Langenhuisen @ HMS Amsterdam, Nadia Oussalem, Marije @ Fourteen Model Management, Jivika Biervliet, Fabrice Keusch, Aline Reina, Katia Ren, Valeria @ Miss Agency, Laura Bello, Jessieka Martinez-Soto, TymekMac, Serafin Zielinski, Aleksandra Foka Przyluska, Adrian Lasota, Maria Cieslak, Joanna Stachniak @ Neva Models, Nathan Pearcy, Keith Carlos, Troy Clinton, Luke
Schneider, Stasia @ Ford Models Chicago, Traci Fine, Oscar Ouk, Mike Mallette, Jonet Williamson, Kristian Kanika, Kelsey Warman @ Marilyn NYC, Parsons Design Lab, Jack Burns, David Valencia, Ali Rose, Felipe Salcedo, Jillian Mazzola, Andy Lee, Shawna Lee @ Judy Inc., Alexa L @ Elite Models, Lyndsay Reader, Belinda Anidjar, Jacob LaBarbara, Gabriela Lorraine, Shannon Phelps
Volume 4; Issue 1; jan/feb 2015
features est by es The Seduction of Detailed Tailoring: Polish fashion designer, Gosia Sobiczewska discusses her latest collection, as well as her creative process, inspirations, & goals!
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Trend alert: denim daze
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Edit or’sNote
Full denim looks have been spotted all over the 2015 runways. What is it about the denim trend that seems to be everlasting? Perhaps, blue jeans is just one of humankind’s greatest inventions!
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trend alert: on the grid
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Illustration by António Soares
ksenia schnaider Where Romance Meets Fashion: Learn more about the Ukranian design duo, Ksenia Marchenko & Anton Schnaider!
Draw inspiration from the graphic appeal of this season’s myriad of windowpane prints. If you want to dive into the print trend without committing too much, this trend is perfect for you!
anhha Learn more about Anh Trieu and Ha Dang, the women behind the Londonbased fashion brand, AnhHa!
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on the cover CREDITS: Photography by: Fabrice Keusch, Creative Styling: Aline Reina, Hair & Makeup: Katia Ren, Model: Valeria @ Miss Agency
Welcome to our first issue of 2015! We’re pretty psyched! It’s been an exciting start to the year for MOD. Not only did we recently relaunch our website and expand our contributing network, but we’re also preparing lots of awesome new content for you guys, this year! In this issue, we’re kicking things off with more work from our amazingly talented photography teams, around the globe. We’ve also got the scoop on the coolest new designers to hit the scene. One thing’s for sure, though -- this issue is packed with inspiration for your new year look! Enjoy!!!
- Shannon Phelps
Fashion is always most prominent and notable when accenting a woman’s body in the most flattering of ways. The ability to construct a hand-designed garment is no easy task, yet is one that designer Gosia Sobiczewska has mastered. Taking real life inspiration and turning it into a wearable piece of art is something that is iconically shown throughout her brand, titled ESTby ES. Prominently sold throughout Poland, this brand is one that has gained the respect of many women, while grabbing the attention of fashion enthusiasts around the globe. Growing up with a natural love for fabrics and all that fashion has to offer, designer Gosia Sobiczewska knew what she wanted to do at a very young age. Raised in Poland, Gosia had very limited resources and access to the fashion that she so desperately craved. “Ever since I was a child, I have been fascinated with the world of fashion. I grew up around a limited variety of shoes, dresses, sweaters, etc., and I could not understand why everything was so similar, and alike. That was the beginning for me and when I first decided -if you don’t have it, you do it yourself.” It was at that moment Gosia started putting fabrics together, and creating her very own looks. She started constructing pieces that were fit to her body type, and ones that would accent her most prominent features. Growing up with limited options in apparel was not always easy, but has played as her best asset yet. With very little to choose from, Gosia was forced to turn her aspiration into reality, creating what is now one of the most sought-out brands throughout the Polish community.
process, and finding what her clientele wanted was the second. Having a basic understanding of her original image and of what her brand would be, it was then Gosia would start physically drawing, and designing. It was important for Gosia to understand what type of clientele she was going to appeal to. But before designing anything on her own, Gosia had other inspirational brands that she looked up to. “While growing up, I was a big fan of Coco Chanel. I loved the way she started her brand, and how it flourished over time. I loved her philosophy, simplicity and courage,” she said. Having Coco Chanel as her basis of inspiration, Gosia used her passion and business tactics to create the brand that is currently flourishing within today’s marketplace. While Coco Chanel started as Gosias first inspiration, there is now a wide variety of things that inspire her, and her work. “As is stands today, I don’t have one particular favorite designer. We live in such a creative world and there are so many people who I gain inspiration from. I tend to look up to various artists, musicians and designers, as they inspire me and the work that I create.” Reaching out and gaining inspiration serves as the single most important factor when designing, and Gosia generates inspiration from various places around the globe.
Starting off with a basic knowledge on fabrics, Gosia was put to the test when enrolling in fashion school at the Faculty of Textile and Fashion at the Academy of Fine Arts in Lodz.
“I love to travel and see the changing landscape, scenery, and the various people that live in each city,” she said.
“In my opinion, education can shape you as an artist, especially in terms of fashion. It teaches you how to find inspiration and how to explore textiles, while experimenting with various colors and patterns,” Gosia stated. “Education opens imagination, and as Pablo Picasso once said: ‘Learn the rules like a pro, so you can break them like an artist.’”
While looking at the vivid color detail that nature offers, Gosia gains a love and respect for colors and how to incorporate them into her designs. She doesn’t just look at a color; she sees it for all that it has to offer. Gosia looks at color in a detailed way, and can see beyond a basic palette. Her appreciation for color is an asset that separates her brand from the rest.
Generating creativity has always been the first step in Gosia’s
With multiple collections already under her belt, Gosia is no stranger to designing pieces that are perfect for various seasons. As stated by Gosia, skirts are one of her favorite pieces to construct, because they are sophisticated, beautiful, and can do so much for a woman’s body.
“Skirts with pockets are one of my favorite pieces to design, because you can style and wear them in many different ways. For example, our style called MORE has pockets that are tailored on a horizontal cut. The pockets can keep your smartphone, lipstick, pen and many small things, which is why I find them so functional and flattering.” When setting out to create a piece or an entire collection, it is no surprise that this eccentric designer has a very detailed procedure that must be followed. “I first create the idea behind the concept: it could a theme, a fabric, or a geometrical shape. Everything is important and everything should be considered. I always pay attention to the small details because they can change the dynamics of my entire collection,” Gosia said of her design process. Creating the perfect piece is something that Gosia strives for, and what her brand ESTby ES is all about. Being a perfectionist at heart, she is willing to work endlessly in order to create the seduction of a perfect hand-tailored piece every time. Having such a strong work ethic is something that fuels her brand, and is something that will continue to shape Gosia’s future work. With future collections in mind, Gosia states, “Something I find to be very important is the challenge to outdo oneself, and knowing you can improve your work with every passing day. I feel most empowered when I receive those small moments when somebody (my client) tells me they feel strength, confidence, or love when wearing [my] designs.” With ESTby ES rapidly growing, and her customer base expanding, Gosia only has one thing to say: “Thank you, thank you, & thank you again.” Having a humble attitude and a natural love for people, Gosia is sure to succeed in anything she puts her mind to. With the hit of her fall/winter 2014 collection, Estby ES is sure to see growth within the near future. In the next few years to come, ESTby ES will focus on their international business, and clientele. They are set to build a large global following, and the respect of many new clients worldwide. “As we continue develop the brand, we will continue to keep moving forward.”
design Images Courtesy of Ksenia Schnaider’s SS15 Look book, Photographer: Inna Franco, Makeup by: M.A.C Cosmetics Ukraine, Models: Anna Zosimova, Nadiia Shapoval, Nina Direnko, Yana Kenzo, and Maria Pavlik
Ksenia Schnaider Where Romance Meets Fashion by Belinda Anidjar very brand has a story. For Ksenia Marchenko and Anton Schnaider, it was a love story that brought their brand to the Kiev fashion scene in 2011. Before meeting her husband and business partner, fashion designer, Ksenia Marchenko, had already been involved in the industry for over ten years. As a teenager, Ksenia admits that her dissatisfaction with the clothing in the Ukrainian market is what inspired her to create her own wardrobe. After designing clothes for her friends and receiving their encouragement to chase her dream, she
decided to step into the world of fashion. Though she describes her early years as unsuccessful, they involved an abundance of hard work and persistence. After many years on her own, fate brought Ksenia to graphic designer, Anton Schnaider, and their instant connection at a New Years party in Moscow was the seed that brought Ksenia Schnaider to life. “When I met Anton,” she said, “I was trying to explain to him my way of life, about my profession and the fashion industry in general. He was absolutely new to this world and
his vision was very fresh and true. We talked for hours and I realized that I should take a break and concentrate on myself and our common philosophy rather than producing collections like a robot.” With a sprinkle of love added to the mix, Ksenia and Anton launched their own fashion label, Ksenia Schnaider. Though their debut collection was devoted to monk robes, they developed a much more versatile image in the years following their initial emergence in the industry. When designing her current collections, Ksenia refers back to her roots for inspiration. According to the designer, her upbringing shaped her design aesthetic, and she compares the Kiev she grew up in to the fashion capital of the world, Paris. Though she admits that the Kiev she once knew has changed, she continues to praise her city. “I learned to love my new Kiev,” she said. “The lost spirit of Soviet life affects me, even though I do not understand the full extent of it. I think I am able to create something understandable worldwide, but my designs always have a hint of nostalgia, mixing Orthodox ideologies with modern Ukrainian clichés.” In light of recent turmoil in her hometown, the designer expressed her inner struggle with the media’s portrayal of her city. The air of uncertainty that pervades her home is reflected in the most recent Ksenia Schnaider S/S 15 collection. “We transformed this vision into prints,” she said, when describing the collection. “We used traditional Ukrainian ornaments and blurred them. Broken pixels and glitches can be seen allegorically. They depict digital media and the distortion of the past and the present.”
For these designers, the personality of the wearer is what makes the clothes come alive. In the presentation of their S/S 15 collection, Ksenia and Anton invited a group of successful women from diverse backgrounds, including fashion editors, stylists, politicians, musicians, models, and students. “It was a great experience for the girls and had a great impact on the collection – each girl brought her own character to the outfit.” Though the collection is filled with striking colors for an array of personalities, according to Ksenia, the street style in Kiev consists of a much more muted color palette, infused with national pride. “In winter, most people wear black. In summer, white and beige. Ukrainian girls still love minis and high heels. There are a lot of vintage clothes on the street and a lot of clothes with national symbols, embroidery, or yellow and blue, the colors of the Ukrainian flag.” When asked to describe her own personal style, Ksenia identified the masculine trend as her signature look. “My personal style is very easy. I wear jeans and flats. I love shirts and plain t-shirts. 70% of my wardrobe consists of Ksenia Schnaider clothes, but not dresses – I prefer suits, sweatshirts, and other masculine stuff,” she said. As for Anton, his wife says that he is currently drawn to the emerging health goth trend. According to Ksenia, he has been sporting this look for many years. The designer projects that it will be featured in their future collections.
Though much of their inspiration is derived from the political climate, it is important for them to allow their customer to interpret the collection in a way that is meaningful to them.
Though both Ksenia and Anton have experienced feelings of doubt throughout their career that have posed a challenge on their road to success, they have managed to overcome them by maintaining a strong mind and a sense of focus.
“We are deliberately trying to mask our philosophy from other people, giving them space and freedom to express their personal beliefs with our clothes”, she explained.
“I never correlate or compare myself to other designers,” she said. “But I can say that we are not trying to follow trends in our work. We have a strong vision.”
design Ksenia’s first fashion show as an 18-year-old designer at Ukrainian Fashion Week remains one of the most memorable moments of her career that shaped who she is today. She admits that at the time, she was very raw and consumed with acting spontaneously, but she has become much more alert, aware, and attentive, and asserts that spontaneity can kill your business. “While working on a collection, keep asking yourself ‘why am I doing this?’, ‘will my designs improve someone’s life?’ and ‘for whom am I creating this?’” she advises to aspiring designers. “It will help you get back to reality from your dreams and create something worthwhile.” This mindset has allowed the couple to thrive in this industry and appreciate every moment. According to Ksenia, the best part of her job thus far has been traveling and meeting people from across the globe, including places such as Italy, the UK, China, France, Georgia, and Germany. But she believes that the highlight of her career has yet to take place. Though she does enjoy the perks of being a fashion designer, she still identifies her favorite activity as spending time with her daughter. When looking into the future of the brand, Ksenia prefers not to project too far ahead, but she still has a few dreams in mind. “I see our brand with good international sales and I hope we will be working in different fields other than fashion, such as the creation of furniture. I am dreaming about art collaborations and projects with artists and of course, I want to build an institution that will help support young talent in my country.” In other words, you may not know what lies ahead, but if you dream big enough and maintain your positive energy like Ksenia and Anton, those dreams may begin to come together in your own elaborate love story.
ith strong, clean lines and an emphasis on the beauty of hand crafted artistry, the women of AnhHa have created a brand devoted to cross cultural narratives and exquisite detailing. Founded by Anh Trieu and Ha Dang, AnhHa is the lovechild of both women, who were inspired by London and Vietnam, and how two very distinct cultures could create a harmonious aesthetic. AnhHa is a hand written love letter to the nearly forgotten craft of hand beading and embroidering -- and rest assured, the pen they write with isn’t going to run out of ink anytime soon. More than anything else, AnhHa tells a story of merging two worlds, two ideas and two cultures into a singular end result. Both Trieu and Dang have always found joy in creativity, and both knew very early on that they wanted to work in fashion. With penchants for creation, both women went on to study fashion design at university, the gateway to creating their label. Trieu studied at Ravensbourne and received her MA in fashion design from Central Saint Martins, while Dang received her degree in fashion design from The London College of Fashion. AnhHa was created after both designers noticed there was a gap in the fashion scene that wasn’t being filled and realized they had the potential to fill it. Playing off of each other’s strengths and styles, the AnhHa label was born. The brand unites both women’s aesthetics and personal influences, as well as their names. In this way, AnhHa is a truly beautiful and authentic portrayal of both designers’ relationships with the world, each other and fashion.
The AnhHa brand is based in London, where the local fashion scene serves as inspiration for the duo. AnhHa’s garments, however, are crafted in Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam. Both designers travel often between cities, finding inspiration in the diverse cultural and creative offerings of both Vietnam and London. Although the creative process may begin in London, the style of each garment is developed in Ho Chi Minh, where the AnhHa team translates ideas to suit a range of tastes. “We love the balance of having a studio in London and a workshop in Ho Chi Minh. We take the best from both worlds. Each city offers a different energy and inspiration that we apply to our designs,” said Trieu. Each AnhHa design is limited in number, due to the demand of beading and embroidering by hand, with some designs taking up to four days to complete. The ethos behind AnhHa speaks to the quality and originality of the label and of the women behind it. The brand employs skilled women in Ho Chi Minh to ensure they’re not skimping on quality. The brand’s loyalty to artistry and ethics is mirrored by the gorgeous pieces that are a result of the designers‘ meticulous attention to detail. AnhHa is sportswear meets couture, baroque meets minimalism and a new take on the simplicity that the fashion set has been striving for, as of late. Whether she’s wearing embroidered leather pants or an embossed, sleek sweatshirt dress, the AnhHa woman is supremely confident in both herself and her style.
According to the designers themselves, the AnhHa woman is often referred to as “the fashion magpie, since she is attracted to the different elements in our embellishments and wants to find the gem that is not available on the high street.” The AnhHa woman isn’t worried about looking, thinking or dressing like everyone else. Instead, she aims to cultivate her individuality through brands that speak to both her sartorial leanings and morals. For Spring/Summer 2015, the brand has created a collection that features their classic juxtaposition between silhouette and detailing. This season, however, there’s a distinct eastern flavor that’s felt in the pieces. This season plays with stronger, bolder silhouettes and new beading applications, as well as new, more formal styles. One of the most prominent traits of the AnhHa brand is the intentionality behind every decision, design and piece, and their latest offering is a testament to that. Inspired by travel “from East to East”, longitude and latitude lines were taken from the label’s design studio in Hackney, London and District 12, Ho Chi Minh. Designs were created around these reference numbers as well as around a travel compass, taking AnhHa’s cross cultural signature to the next level. The house’s spring collection is also a step away from their past. Instead of heavy beadwork and embroidery, the brand took a much lighter approach. “We wanted to create a light and fresh collection that was a big move away from our current AW14 collection. We used less
embroidery and concentrated on new metalware applications and techniques which delivered a much cleaner, lighter look,” the designers said of their most recent collection. This collection sings to the woman who is inspired by travel, by the world and by stepping out of her own comfort zone to experience everything this life offers her. For the AnhHa woman, the destination is just the perk to traveling in style. Almost any young brand will face uncertainty in their future. AnhHa, however, has never been the typical brand, something that is blatantly obvious by their work ethic and designs. AnhHa plans on staying true to their roots by continuing to create sustainable fashions for their customers. 2015 also holds some exciting changes for the brand, including expanding their workshop and perhaps even offering new designers the opportunity to collaborate. The designers would also get an opportunity to work alongside AnhHa in their production facility, an especially thrilling offer, considering how unique AnhHa’s setup is. Although there is certainly no lack of talent in the fashion industry, designers and brands that are conscious of each step involved in creating their pieces are far and few. Perhaps this is one of the reasons AnhHa has created such a successful niche for themselves. AnhHa is still a relatively new label but that hasn’t stopped them from going where no one else has gone. Regardless if it’s from “east to east” or north to south, AnhHa’s clear directionality only proves that they have nowhere to go but up.