Issue 4 by MOJEH Men

Adventure In Style

AW 14

Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH

EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Publishing Director RADHIKA NATU

Associate Editor SHERI IZADPANAH

Publishing Assistant DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA

Assistant Editor KELLY BALDWIN

Subscription Assistant gracelyn gabriel

Guest Fashion Editors Brian Coats Julie Ragolia Romina Herrera Malatesta

Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC Senior Advertisement Manager Pamela Bayram Cleave

Fashion Writer Harry McKinley Contributing Copy Editor Sophie Louise Rust

Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 454 20 50 Tel: +971 4 425 79 79 Email: advertising@mojeh.com

Editorial Assistant Christopher Prince susan devaney

Subscription Tel: +971 4 454 20 50 Email: subs@mojeh.com

Junior Editorial Assistant CHarlotte codd

LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH Concierge Service Management ASSMA AHMED

Editorial Contributors Dan Hasby-Oliver Freya McOmish Gautam Sharma Paul McLoughlin Sophie Louise Rust

Head of Lifestyle OLGA KOVALCHUK Corporate Manager JUBRAN HAMATI

ART

Manager IT Division ALI ROMAN

Producer LOUIS AGENCY

Senior Stylist MARIAN GIRGIS

Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI

Personal Shopper HELENE CHECHIK

Digital Strategy LOUIS AGENCY

Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Media City Building 10, Office 345 P.O.Box 502333 Dubai, United Arab Emirates

Contributing Photographers Matthew Scrivens Riccardo Vimercati Contributing Dubai Photographer Sarvenaz Hashtroudi

Cover shot by Riccardo Vimercati | Styled by Brian Coats | Model: Danny Beauchamp wears suit by Roberto Cavalli, turtleneck by Tom Ford, sunglasses by Linda Farrow and bracelet by Bottega Veneta

WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

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Mojeh men Contents

26 Great Explorers We share the stories of the pioneering men who took on the undiscovered world.

32 Man In Society: Mishal Kanoo We speak to Mishal Kanoo, Deputy Chairman of The Kanoo Group, about family business in the Middle East and why heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s never afraid to rock the boat.

40 Against All Odds: Bear Grylls

Modern day action man Bear Grylls speaks to us about overcoming adversity and facing monumental challenges.

68 Designer Interview: Kenzo Design duo Carol Lim and Humberto Leon discuss brand popularity and why KENZO is fast becoming a global powerhouse of style.

142 142

Extreme Watch Edit We showcase the watches engineered for extremes, ideal for scaling the highest heights or plunging into the deepest oceans. - 10 -

Mojeh men Contents

152 Four Wheels Good, Two Wheels Bad Why luxury car manufacturers are looking to the SUV for big business in a 4x4 obsessed market.

152

156 The Trump Card Ivanka Trump discusses her professional priorities and the importance of the ‘signature Trump touch’ in Dubai.

156

178 Destination Ski: Our Top Ten From on-piste to après-ski pursuits, we chart our top 10 ski destinations for the season.

178

182 Into The Deep: Fabien Cousteau

182

We speak to famed explorer and aquatic filmmaker Fabien Cousteau about his work and why a spirit of adventure runs in the family.

195 195

Urban Nomad: The Catskills A playground for those who crave adventure in an outdoor paradise, this issue we venture to New York’s Catskill Mountains. - 12 -

ABU DHABI Avenue at Etihad Towers Tel. +971 2 6746200

DUBAI Al Qasr Hotel Tel. +971 4 4342223

Also available at RODEO DRIVE

Editor’s note

Ventures

Great

the waiting game, Photographed by Riccardo Vimercati

‘For me, adventure is satisfying your curiosity,’ Fabien Cousteau, grandson of Jacques told us when we asked what the spirit of adventure meant to him. With the idea ‘singing to his heart’, he went on, ‘A lot of people have questions in life but they never take the steps to answer those questions.’ And so our autumn / winter issue offers a building block of inspiration for those very reasons. Think you’ve climbed the highest mountain, sped down the fastest ski slope or made one great splash in the world’s deepest ocean? You’ve not seen anything, yet. From man of style Yousuf Al Hashimi who has sailed across some of our greatest waters, before bringing adventurer right back to the UAE, to our Man in Society Mishal Hamed Kanoo, who’s guiding philosophy in life is to take control and responsibility - a fundamental start in any endeavour you choose to take on, we’ve not left any voyage undiscovered. ‘I’m a very ambitious person, with a strong passion for perfection and beauty’, Giuseppe Santoni CEO of Italian footwear label Santoni told us. And over in our style pages, he sums up a similar mind-set of determination that can also be found in the way we dress, not just the things we do. In our fashion edit for the six months ahead, we have everything from clothing trends – will you lean toward a warm shearling, padded parker, cable knit or all three as showcased in our ‘layering’ look? – to the latest in watch movements and accessory choices. We also speak to creative directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon for an in-depth look at the fearless and pioneering Parisian fashion house Kenzo. Whether it’s through style, business or pastime, fearlessly venture into the good and great this season.

Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

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Pilgrim’s Progress, Photographed by Matthew Scrivens

pa n e r a i . c o m

Mediterranean Sea. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Gammaâ&#x20AC;? men in training. The diver emerging from the water is wearing a Panerai compass on his wrist.

history a n d heroes.

luminor 1950 3 days (ref. 372)

PANERAI BOUTIQUES DUBAI - The Dubai Mall - +971 4 339 8444 - dubaimall@panerai.com ABU DHABI - Avenue at Etihad Towers - +971 2 681 8660 - abudhabi.etihad@panerai.com The Galleria at Sowwah Square, Al Maryah Island - + 971 2 491 9748 - abudhabi.sowwah@panerai.com

Seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s selections

The

As the frost sets in and the nights draw close, the mood of our wardrobe becomes sober. This autumn / winter season is defined by the elements with pieces built for durability and performance. Take a cue from staple outerwear given a utilitarian edge, hone in on your inner traveller by packing a rucksack light and tread with confidence in a pair of sturdy boots. With a palette consumed by dark, earthy hues, remember that when it comes to the elements, style is elemental.

Big

Chill

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Seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s selections

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mojeh men moments

Crafting The

Extremes

esigned for the urban adventurer, Montblanc introduces the Extreme Collection - shaped to push the boundaries of modern performance wear. In an age when style and functionality are key factors in contemporary design, Montblanc have utilised their knowledge of crafting leather goods to produce a line of essential travel pieces. For over a century, Montblanc have preserved the ideals of artful technique, embracing new innovations and creating luxury goods that are timeless and instantly recognisable with the iconic Montblanc emblem. Starting life in 2006 on the outskirts of Florence within the boundaries of the Montblanc Pelletteria, the Extreme Collection blends masterful Italian design with high quality materials. Offering luxury with durability, the collection includes a passport holder, business card

holder and wallet, all comprised of tough outer shells with soft cowhide interiors. For larger leather goods, Montblanc focused on classic travel essentials. The single gusset briefcase, rucksack and document case, along with bags in messenger, tote, clutch and envelope varieties, come lined and detailed with supple leather and neoprene, providing cushioning for electronic goods. To determine if these extreme designs would really hold up, Montblanc conducted a series of high performance tests including tear, heat and general abrasion assessments. They decided upon leather that went through a unique dressing and finishing process originally used in 1926, when Montblanc opened its first store in Germany. The outcome resulted in designs built for extreme weather resistance, perfectly primed for winter pursuits. What more could an explorer need?

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mojeh men moments

In Style ,

On Track By Dan Hasby-Oliver

t was a trend to last a season, maybe two, to capture the spirit and excitement of the London 2012 Olympics. With tailored jersey joggers, cocooned grey marl sweatshirts and perhaps teamed with a baseball cap, Sports Luxe â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from a trend point of view â&#x20AC;&#x201C; was meant to be a flash in the fashion pan. Yet, as we have seen since the 1920s, men have been throwing off their structured suits and discovering conscious and well-designed athletic wear. Its next incarnation was in the 1980s, with Calvin Klein introducing gym inspired pieces and Ralph Lauren selling the preppy look back to the British with polo shirts and sports chinos. It was at this point that Fashion vs Lifestyle leveled until the glorious display of sporting excellence and theatre at the Olympic Park in Stratford, East London. As menswear grows and develops from the maxi-trend of authenticity, craftsmanship and

heritage, the dramatic yet slow burning trend for Sports Luxe is fusing past ideologies of menswear with the future. The biggest spin on this trend is that of the fashion sneaker. Once a trainer was just a clumpy piece of mesh, plastic and rubber, however, within the past couple of seasons, French house Lanvin, Italian houses Valentino and Salvatore Ferragammo, and now Tom Ford are producing the Rolls-Royces of sports footwear. Ford is presenting his interpretation in both leather and velvet, with high and ankle cut sneakers manufactured in Italian workshops by artisan cobblers who spend a week dedicated to stitching, polishing and then resting the leather for 10 days, after which the shape of the shoe is created and then handpolished over three days. Ford is said to have resisted making a tennis shoe until he could make them his own, and in doing so has defined the luxe in sports.

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mojeh men moments

The Spiral

Showspace

he fine watchmakers at Audemars Piguet have grand plans to extend their historic Vallée de Joux site into an innovative underground creative hub. With backing from Danish design company, the BIG architectural firm, the ‘Maison des Fondateurs’ space will provide a new exhibition centre for Audemars Piguet’s main headquarters. Juxtaposed with the brand’s original building dating back to 1868, the Maison des Fondateurs will provide an innovative reception area for customers and craftsmen alike to touch base. Comprised of a contemporary overlapping spiral structure, the extension reflects Audemars Piguet’s concept of interweaving the past with the present, set perfectly into the Swiss incline. Built and inaugurated in 1992, the original Audemars Piguet museum is housed within the Audemars family home in the heart of the Swiss Jura. Since 1875 the company has been at the forefront of watchmaking

innovation, crafting intricate timepieces that are now set on display within the grounds. The new 2,400sqm space will incorporate design workshops and exhibition rooms, along with professionally conserved archives for visitors to enjoy. Audemar Piguet selected five Swiss and international firms, BIG CPH, Caruso Saint John, Group8, Richter Dahl Rocha and Snohetta to participate in a competition to design the building for their new site. For its official inauguration all of the designs will be housed within the newly developed exhibition centre. The winning entry came from BIG, who devised the look and feel of the Maison des Fondateurs building with the same mindset applied to Audemar Piguet’s bespoke watchmaking. Through the movement of the spirals to the combination of materials, the design attempts to integrate the form and functionality of a beautifully crafted and utterly individual Audemars Piguet timepiece.

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mojeh men moments

Sugarbush

Resort

Clay Brook Lodging

s ski seasons get shorter and the heat index rises higher it has been winter tourism that has taken a tropical hit. Yet ahead of every disaster is a team waiting to contain the fallout. In response to rising global temperatures, ski resorts have looked to innovative snowmaking technology in order to create artificial winter wonderlands. Computer controlled snow guns and traditional snow cannons are at the tip of the snowmaking iceberg. From electrically powered fans to energy saving 12 metre long snow lances, snowmaking technology can change an entire landscape. The Liberty Mountain Resort located in southern Pennsylvania is a resort at the forefront of this innovation. The resort can produce 1,300 tonnes of snow per hour thanks to a highly specialised system that automates snow production during peak conditions when humidity and temperature align. Over at Warren’s Sugarbush Resort the squad had to implement a complete equipment overhaul in order to be ready for the ski season. ‘Last season we invested over

$300,000 in snowmaking upgrades including the purchase and installing of 76 new HKD SV10s on Stein’s Run, Upper Organgrinder, and Downspout, as well as 12 Snowlogic 4 stage towers,’ says John Bleh, communications coordinator at the Sugarbush Resort. ‘These investments come on the heels of recent expansion in 2011 that included the installation of 40 Snowlogic towers at Mt. Ellen in partnership with Green Mountain Valley School.’ Maximising the ski season is something incredibly important to Bleh. ‘Snowmaking provides a great way to get our mountain open earlier in the season and to stay open later. It also provides an insurance policy to get terrain open for all abilities as soon as possible and ensure that certain trails receiving high traffic can remain open during periods of low snowfall.’ Ironically, in the short term, warmer temperatures have done wonders to ensure increased precipitation, thus creating more snow when winter finally does arrive. However it’s in the long run where concerns have snowballed. Climate change won’t be prevented for long, luckily it’ll be up to the resorts, snow gun in hand, to maintain the freeze.

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ÂŠ Capital D Studio 2014

man of style

120

Seconds with…

Yousuf

Al Hashimi

A sailor, a diver and an all-round global adventurer, Yousuf Al Hashimi took his passion for sports and transformed it into a business enterprise, cofounding Ahdaaf Sports Club in Dubai. From party tricks to his favourite snack, we proved that all it takes is two minutes to get to know someone.

When I was a boy I wanted to be: Jacques Cousteau | Favourite film: Any of the Godfather trilogy | My style is: Extremely diverse, even a little ‘lumberjackish’ at times | Early bird / Night owl: Night owl | Favourite musician: Notorious B.I.G. | Luxury I couldn’t live without: High-end restaurants | My favourite snack: Cadbury’s Dairy Milk, strictly from the UK | Tell us a joke: It’s funny how axe handles are made of wood; it’s like the ultimate ‘screw you’ to trees | Grooming secret: Comb your beard every day for it to grow out well | Gadget I couldn’t live without: My smartphone | City or wilderness: Wilderness | If I were to invent one thing: A better engineered 4X4! Mine keeps breaking down | Favourite weekend activity: Sailing | My watch is a: Calibre de Cartier Diver | I am happiest when: I’m at sea | On my iPod: Old school hip-hop, classic rock, reggae and even some classical too. | Home is where: My family is | My party trick is: Muscle-ups! | Time it takes me to get ready: 10 minutes max | Favourite place in the world: Scotland | My wardrobe staple: Black V-neck | Biggest style mistake I’ve made: Denim shirt and jeans. Although I thought it looked cool, everyone around me disagreed. | Favourite sport: Sailing. I just finished racing at Cowes Week regatta in the Isle of Wight. | Lesson that changed my life: Blood is thicker than water.

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mojeh men talking point

Great Explorers:

The Men Who Took On The World

n 1911, Roald Amundsen and a small team of adventurers trekked across a vast crystal white wasteland never touched by humankind before. As they inched closer to the South Pole across barren tundra and fields of ice, and blasted by a constant arctic wind, every step became an epic feat of endurance as the team stared starvation, frostbite and hypothermia in the face on almost every moment of their two-year journey. The Americas and Australasia had been ‘discovered’ centuries before, but swathes of the world were still left unexplored and chief among these was Antarctica. Before the 20th century, exploration often meant conquest and colonisation, but in this new modern age of gentlemanly civility, competition was key with both national and personal pride at stake. It was the peak of the Heroic Age of Antarctic Exploration, when competing groups of explorers battled it out against themselves, and the elements, to uncover the last remaining blanks on the map. Here in the Antarctic, failure likely meant death, but with Robert Scott and his team also attempting to reach this southern tip of the

globe, Amundsen’s men’s eyes were fixed on the prize of being the first people to reach the South Pole and little else mattered. An Anglo-Irish explorer named Ernest Shackelton had made a previous attempt to reach the Southern Pole with the Nimrod Expedition between 1907 and 1909. Although unsuccessful it ended in a heroic struggle back to civilization, the team having reached the Farthest South latitude reached by man, and within just a couple of hundred miles from the Pole. On the arduous journey back, and despite being on on near-starvation rations, Shackleton provided a struggling comrade, Frank Wild, with the one biscuit he was allocated a day. Wild said of this act of benevolence, ‘All the money that was ever minted would not have bought that biscuit and the remembrance of that sacrifice will never leave me.’ But it would be the Norwegian Amundson who would reach the South Pole first, ticking off one of the last land areas of exploration on the planet. The Norwegian explorer was to die in 1926 a hero. By the time Shackleton died of a premature heart attack on a ship sailing for the Antarctic, he was a

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Be it the freezing wilderness of the South Pole or the undiscovered depths of the oceans, it took pioneering men to chart the paths less travelled. We look at their stories.

mojeh men talking point

heavy drinker and deeply in debt, ever in search of the elusive title of being a champion explorer. In this age where winning means everything, on the face of it it would appear that there was only room for only one winner in this story. Yet Shackleton has been rediscovered as a model for leadership and stoic self-sacrifice, as well as an important explorer in his own right. Much of his reputation was built on Shackletonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s attempted marathon march to cross the Antarctic continent starting in 1914. Known as the Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition, the journey would take four years and not go as planned, but it would be remembered as one of the grandest adventures of its age. Shackleton surmounted colossal obstacles from the start with legendary determination and eccentricity. Although backed by the British Government, a shortfall in capital meant that Shackleton himself had to use his self-promotion skills to the full in order to raise the necessary finances for the journey. In this age, explorers were treated with the same reverence as film stars and musicians, so Shackleton played on his reputation as a media darling to embark on sell-out lecture tours where he described his journeys and gained the attention of wealthy patrons. Through private donations, Shackleton gained the necessary funding and then went about recruiting

Ernest Shakleton and the crew of the Nimrod

Ernest Shakletonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ship Endurance trapped in ice, 1916.

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mojeh men talking point

the right men to join him. It was done with this simple, brutally honest newspaper advertisement: Men wanted for hazardous journey. Low wages, bitter cold, long hours of complete darkness. Safe return doubtful. Honour and recognition in the event of success. He would receive 5,000 applications for the 28man team and Shackletonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heartfelt recruitment technique was to simply select men he liked the look of, or warmed to during short interviews. Character rather than experience he believed to be the ingredients of success. He was to name this colossal undertaking across the Antarctic continent, Endurance, after the name of the ship that it was hoped would carry the main team to the ice ledges of Antarctica. The party was split into two, with the main trekking group on Endurance who would attempt to cross the continent by foot. Another ship, Aurora, would sail around the continent, with a party dropping off supplies for the Endurance team to retrieve along the way. However, due to frozen ice floes, Endurance became frozen and spent months drifting northwards. Shackleton had hoped that when the ship was released from the ice they would be able to continue their intended journey but were forced to abandon ship when Endurance began to sink. The team drifted along on an ice flap for months

The Nimrod Expedition

ÂŠ CORBIS

South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands, Antarctica, 1916.

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mojeh men talking point

Roald Amundsen (right), during his 1926 North Pole expedition.

until they were forced to man the lifeboat for Elephant Island as supplies were fast running short. Shackleton would suffer from terrible frostbite when he gave his own gloves to the photographer in the party who was without mittens. Although the expedition was once again unsuccessful, he earned himself a reputation as a fiercely loyal and selfless leader, becoming a national hero back in the England due to the British deference of the underdog. Antarctica’s secrets are still being discovered today with research stations manned by scientists, dedicating their lives to finding out more about the biodiversity of the continent. What is still relatively unknown by researchers is the life that the glaciers and waters around this continent hold. It is still said that we know more about space that the oceans of the earth and one man who was determined to advancing our knowledge in this subject was French oceanographer Jacques Cousteau. Cousteau was another eccentric and sometimes foolhardy adventurer who has made a huge impact on how we understand and relate to the underwater world. The oceanographer himself was a respected scientist and was to adopt the latest technology in his expeditions. This includes the first ever use of Aqua Lung prototypes during the filming of the documentary Shipwrecks. It was the first time the world came to see the sunken ships of antiquity and Cousteau was to modify the Aqua Lung to introduce to the world the first ever open-water scuba apparatus. Modern scuba technology today still follows Cousteau’s prototype. Cousteau also invented a movie film to suit his underwater tasks, which further cemented his name as a fortuitous and resourceful scientist.

Cousteau spent much of his early career in the French Navy, but in 1950 he founded the French Oceanographic Campaigns (FOC), hiring the former minesweeper Calypso for greater freedom in exploring the seas of across the world and also acting as a mobile laboratory. Cousteau also captured his journeys to the Red Sea, Persian Gulf, Indian Ocean and Mediterranean Sea on film. It was the first time the underworld of the oceans had been seen in colour, and in 1956 the Cousteau directed documentary The Silent World was released, one of the most highly acclaimed films in history. With his further rise in stature in the scientific world, the oceanographer formed the Cousteau Society to highlight the environmental threats that sea life faced, the cause bolstered by his media profile and increased presence on television screens. In 1996, the Calypso was rammed by a barge in Hong Kong harbour and severely damaged. He would spend the remaining year of his life trying to raise funds for the repair and refitting of his trusted boat, until a heart attack cut his life short in 1997. His thirst for exploration was never quite quenched, even at the age of 87, and he was keen to link his adventures to a bigger, more scientific need to understand the world. He said, ‘What is a scientist after all? It is a curious man looking through a keyhole, the keyhole of nature, trying to know what’s going on.’ From Amundsen to Shackleton, this quest to learn more about the nature of the earth and the limitations of man seems to have been achieved through adventurers’ stories of hardships and tribulations, when mysteries were unraveled and the voids of the earth revealed.

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Mojeh men on design

Image: Robyn Robson

The Pod That

Man Built

Deserted for over half a century, the Futuro Pod has been given a new lease of life as developers look to repurpose one of the world’s lost architectural treasures.

round some of the world’s most desolate terrains, hide deserted elliptical shaped houses made out of fiberglass, measuring 12ft high by 32ft wide and stilted atop metal frames. In the wake of its downfall, a new wave of collectors have emerged looking to repurpose the Futuro Pod for a whole new 21st Century clientele. Originally designed in 1968 as a ski lodge for explorers to brave the sub-zero chill in Finland, architect Matti Suuronen looked to the terrestrial skies in a bid to bring outer space crash landing onto earth. Before the return of architectural probity, engineering - 30 -

mavens labeled any building that didn’t resemble a brick box as an ‘alien spaceship.’ Suuronen gave the media just that, with what he believed was the prefabricated building of the future. The Swinging Sixties, so synonymous with embracing counterculture, saw the Futuro as an emblematic image of its time. Finnish filmmaker Mika Taanila documented the emphatic change the Futuro brought to a world obsessed with optimism in his short, Futuro - A New Stance for Tomorrow. ‘It was a time of the man going to the Moon and it was widely believed that science and technology would have all the answers for better living. It was a very optimistic age without cynical boundaries for imagination,’ expresses Taanila. ‘Suuronen had donated his materials from the project to the Museum of Finnish Architecture, but very little information was known or at least collected together on the saga of this unique housing project. It was not so much the success of the house that I found fascinating, but rather the failure, the ill-fated short span of international attention the Futuro house received and its collapse. It felt like one of those great dramas of impossible quests with mythic qualities.’ The lingering utopian undertone to the documentary was something Taanila found increasingly important

Mojeh men on design

to convey. ‘By looking at the utopias of the future, we can talk about the values of our own age. There’s a fascinating distance.’ Only around 60 Futuros are said to have been produced, many in locations unknown to the public. Cabin number 001, the original, is the most tangible reminder that the Futuro was in fact an architectural phenomenon. It is showcased annually at the WeeGee Exhibition Centre in Espoo, a 20-minute drive from Helsinki, towering above its replicas in a War of the Worlds take on modernist architecture. Simon Robson, founder of futurohouse.com and practitioner of all things Futuro, has seen four units in his lifetime. ‘Each is different, Royse City is derelict, Rockwall is still used but on private land, Espoo is fully restored to its original condition and Pöytyä is simply unique in its location, raised 15 metres in the Finnish forest,’ says Robson. ‘I am hoping to visit the Futuro in Corfu next year and sometime in the next few years will try to take a couple of road trips around the other US located Futuros. If I can ever manage it, I might also visit the other European ones and those in Australia and New Zealand.’ Robson has been an avid fan of the Futuro since the creation of his blog. ‘When I first saw the Futuro it piqued my interest, not only because of the blog I had started but also because of its simplicity, its ‘UFO’ like appearance and its uniqueness,’ Robson continues. ‘As I delved more I became intrigued with what had happened to those that were manufactured. I felt that the Futuro was worthy of preservation but there are many derelict units and some that have been demolished. My website has continued to grow and I feel it now provides a serious, detailed and accurate history and status of what I consider to be an architectural icon.’ Detrimental to the Futuro’s success as a solution for the world’s housing crisis was the Arab oil embargo at the start of the Seventies. With oil tripled in price, the production of fiberglass, the material that shaped the pod, became all the more costly. In turn, production halted and the spaceship-mongers who had reaped the benefits of the Futuro were out of business. Half a century on and interest in the Futuro has peaked again. The man behind the Futuro no.22, Craig Barnes, has been instrumental in the redevelopment of the pod. In April of 2013, Barnes found himself negotiating a deal on top of Table Mountain whilst on holiday, to buy his dream property. The reality of purchasing such a large scale collectable involved a 12,000-mile journey by sea, perched above a container ship to relocate his beloved possession back home. ‘The Futuro ticked all those boxes and many more,’ explains Barnes. ‘My first instinct was to save it from destruction. I consulted with experts in the field of fiberglass restoration, and Futuros themselves, before embarking on a very long journey of removing the damaged gelcoat layer of the exterior so a new surface finish could be applied. I’ve had to source new windows and even make a new front door, copied from one in New Zealand.’

Futuro House in the Dombai Mountains, Soviet Union, mid-1970s

Restoring the Futuro has proved costly, so it is little wonder many aren’t willing to commit to such a heavy financial burden. Those who do and those who have studied the Futuro intently, have discovered a whole new outlook on its purpose. ‘I think the Futuro house serves as an example of what can be achieved,’ says Barnes. ‘So many things can be added to the 21st Century Futuro experience. I think the important thing is to keep the balance with the spirit of the 1960s it embodies.’ For Taanila, the draw of the Futuro’s exterior was its biggest appeal. ‘The oval shape is like a magnet. Once you’ve seen it, it feels very familiar and cozy, and it’s difficult to forget. The Futuro House can be seen as some kind of tabula rasa for our projected daydreams.’ Yet it was the timelessness of the Futuro that enticed Robson. ‘Despite it being nearly 50 years old it actually still looks futuristic and innovative. I think there is a market but clearly it is a niche market.’ Whether the Futuro itself will be as popular as it was in the Sixties is yet to be seen. ‘My guess is it will retain its almost cult-like following,’ continues Robson. ‘While I hear talk now and again from someone out there wondering about manufacturing, I personally do not think it will happen; for me it would just be a reproduction and that never holds the same significance or interest as an original.’ - 31 -

man of society

Man In Society:

Mishal Kanoo

We speak to Mishal Kanoo, Deputy Chairman of The Kanoo Group about business in the Middle East, keeping it in the family and why heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s never afraid to rock the boat.

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man of society

You’ve been described as rebellious, how does this manifest itself in your approach to management? I don’t believe in conformity. Conformity has its purposes, but not when you’re trying to create something or get something done, it just doesn’t work. Sometimes you need the devil’s advocate to ask the questions that other people won’t ask. Sometimes it doesn’t make you very popular, even though it’s a necessity. I also like to think that my job is to keep people thinking, myself included. I like the idea of asking questions and I like the idea of being asked difficult questions. I don’t know if rebellious is the right word, but I like the idea of helping cause change. Are you concerned about your public persona, or ever nervous about ‘rocking the boat’? I’m not here to make people happy. If there is stupidity and I can see that stupidity, and then I repeat it, then I’ve not done my job. My job is to say ‘there’s a problem here’, please pay attention to it. How are things supposed to get better if you never ask the tough questions? We have a saying in Arabic, ‘be different to be noticed.’ That’s not the purpose. Sometimes you need a catalyst. Let’s face it, a person can be sick, they know what the illness is, but they need a doctor sometimes to tell them their situation! Popularity is a waste of energy if you ask me, because it’s a never-ending quest. You oversee UAE operations for the group. What do you see as being different strategies, or specific strategies that you need to adopt for the UAE in particular that are different to other countries in the region? In other parts of the Gulf family connections and social structure can get you far. In this part of the world the only thing that you have going for you is what the world accepts as a common denominator, which is money. Yes, there are a lot of people who want reputation. But if I’m only going to be here for a short time, then my reputation goes with me when I leave. But what is a currency of conduct is money. So you structure things in a different way, you address things in a different way and you approach businesses in a different way. When you’re talking about people who come from different values, each one has his different mindset in terms of what is acceptable and what is not acceptable. You need to find a common denominator and subsequently the only thing that happens to be the modus operandi for the world at this point, to reiterate, is money. So you try to focus on what your customers want first and what your suppliers want versus everyone around you and what they want. In other parts of the Gulf family links will get you farther than, say, Dubai, because you have a lot of multinational companies coming through. They do recognise reputation, they do recognise values, but at the end of the day their shareholders judge them every quarter by how much money they made or lost. You’re something of an authority on family business and taught a course on the subject at the American University of Sharjah. What is the core philosophy that you would like to impart to those that are learning from you? In a family business there are only two places you want to be. You want to be either at the top, where your decisions have effect and can cause change. That unfortunately comes at a price because everyone is aiming at you, and sleep is at a premium.

The second one is much more enjoyable, and that is being at the bottom where you don’t affect anything. You may not make much money, but you don’t suffer, and you sleep! I would not recommend people getting into a family business, not because family business is bad, but because nobody knows you better than your family. On the positive side, because you are a family you are protective of each other and you’re supportive of each other. But when things go bad, nobody knows your buttons better than they do and they’ll push them. Subsequently it’s a double-edged sword; on the one hand it’s a protective position that you want to be in, where you have a fallback position. But at the same time if you don’t learn diplomacy and politics very quickly in a family business, you’ll suffer. This region does have a very family focused business climate. Because that creates certain monopolies what do you think that means for the consumer and is it prohibitive to competition? The issue of whether a company has a monopoly or not is an issue for the government. On the one hand, as a consumer you want to have an open market with lower prices and more competitors. On the other hand, if you do then you’ll be killing an indigenous company because it will never have the ability to protect itself enough to be able to be substantial, and to compete against companies coming in from larger markets. I’m not suggesting monopolies are good, I’m not suggesting they’re bad, it’s just that there is the issue of a regulative body whose job is to ensure that the consumers are protected, while at the same time allowing businesses to have enough protection to be able to grow. How that balances out is an issue for them, but in the meantime will family businesses take advantage of the situation? I think if the game allows you to take advantage of it and you don’t take advantage, then that’s your problem! Speaking of family businesses, a bourgeoning market has helped make fortunes for many, however now that this region is beginning to stabalise and become more integrated with the global market, how do you think individuals or companies need to change their approach to business and international ‘best practice’? The reason a company should exist is to provide a product or service that nobody else has. To get into a business to create jobs for family is something I wouldn’t recommend. If you already are in a business I would be considering what type of business that is. If you are in a young business, you might not want to go for the ‘best practices’ per se, because they’re restrictive. You might want to go with the most efficient practices. It won’t necessarily be the best for the customer, but they’re the most efficient. If you’re talking about a mature type of industry then you might want to go for the ‘best practice’, even though you’re not obliged to, because you’re setting a standard that others will have to follow. It might be expensive initially. It might be something that takes away from your profits. But if you properly manage it, it will be something that will reap rewards. With my own family we started computerising in the 1960s. Believe me in those days it was a punch card thing; it took a lot of work for very small results. But the suggestion was that this was a company moving towards the future. That’s a very strong statement. It gave the impression that this was a forward thinking family in a forward thinking business and it had a positive effect in the long term. I’m reaping the benefits of that choice today.

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Cold Fusion From swimming in below freezing waters to rip-roaring down the piste at lightning speed, we explore why fusion sports prove two is always better than one.

arked by Olympians and enthusiasts alike, the age of the fusion sport is upon us. Winter events have been celebrated since 1924 when the first Winter Olympic Games were held in the idyllic southeastern region of Chamonix, France. With just sixteen nations represented by 256 athletes, the Winter Olympic Games was a chance to showcase specialist events unique to the alpine climate. The host nation would eventually finish second to last, but it was the dependable Nords who came out on top. Traditionally winter sports originated in Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway and Sweden; countries that have embraced ice like Americans have track - it’s in their blood to survive climates well below habitable. The knock-on effect over the past decade has resulted in winter sports growing in favour with the masses. Fusion sports allow competitors to transition from completely different terrains with the simple addition

of a ski blade or snow track. Whatever the difficulty gauge, as with any sport, the option to apply skills gained on the shores or racecourse allows for instant athletic gratification. Such gratification however, can’t be entirely applied to all pursuits. Take for instance the Ice Mile. The rules are simple, find a body of water below 5°C, wear nothing but your thermal suit, goggles and a silicone swimming hat and swim for one mile straight without stopping. It’s the ultimate test of endurance, something South African open water swimmer Ram Barkai knows all too well. ‘Swimming in Norway in glacial lakes was mind blowing. I had to break the ice with my hands to get to the open space where I swam. It was surreal, so quiet and beautiful, so deadly. For me, swimming in ice is not just about the cold, it is also about the location and the raw beauty of the place.’ Being at one with nature is far more important that any medal

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Snow Polo

mojeh men on sport

rank, though for Barkai and his sporting pedigree, ice swimming deserves its own association. ‘We introduced a World Championship. The first one will take place in Murmansk, Russia in March 2015. My focus is on making the sport grow while we learn and increase the safety measures. It is an extreme sport. No one must take it lightly.’ First appearing in the European Alps in the 1850s, skibiking has provided a safer alternative for athletes sidelined with injury. The Ice Velocipede of 1869 still has the same components as today’s bikes, if not for an ultra-modern overhaul. Mark Kinnon of the SkiBiker Blog notes its universal appeal. ‘I ride with plenty of former skiers with blown knees and boarders with back issues. It has already been demonstrated that skibikes will give you the option to stay on the slopes well into your eighties.’ In the past, ski resorts were exclusive environments only accessible to the most physical specimens, ski biking however allows a far greater range of enthusiasts. On the opposite side of the danger scale you’ll find skijoring.This exciting competitive sport involves a rider on a horse pulling a skier behind them through a timed course. Skijoring draws spectators worldwide to witness a competition of high-octane danger. Vernon Kiser, owner and resident of Whitefish Skijoring, Montana explains its appeal. ‘It’s an adrenaline rush like you would not believe. I am both a skier and have horses. A horse has a mind of his own. A lot of our skiers who compete have a lot of ski racing experience; a few have competed on the US ski team,’ he continues. ‘Horses and skiing are a big part of the history of this area. It brings together two different groups of people, and two different sports. I don’t know of any other type of competition that brings together such diversity.’ Airborne sports meanwhile, take off-piste endeavours to a whole new level. Speedriding combines skis with paragliding and allows for multi-terrain contact. François Bon, speedriding pioneer and famed daredevil

for his escapades over Mont Blanc, Eiger and Grandes Jorasses explains that the sport itself is still in its infancy. ‘There is still a big development to come. Organisation of the activity is yet to develop in lots of countries where there are mountains and snow. I’ve been part of the group of pioneers who started speedriding and designed the first wings dedicated to the sport.’ The precursors for these reimagined sports are in fact deeply rooted in history. Snow polo has the exact same format as its equestrian counterpart, only played during the ski season. Snow polo’s breakthrough came in 1985 when it was introduced in St.Moritz to a small following. Today it is played internationally spanning Italy, Austria, Russia, the United States and most notably China, which held the inaugural Snow Polo World Cup in 2012. Conditions for snow polo are quicker due to the small perimeter of the playing field, but audiences benefit from an up-close-and-personal viewing aspect. Snow polo is about as prestigious as the name suggests, highlighted by the annual Piaget World Snow Polo Championships and the Cartier Polo World Cup in St. Moritz. Meanwhile on the icy shores, ice yachting has become increasingly popular in the United States and Canada. Its origins lie in the Hudson River, which spans from north to south through eastern New York State. The Hudson held the first ever ice yacht race in 1881, the American Challenge Pennant, a three mile triangle which competitors sailed around five times. To this day ice yachting races occur worldwide,but it has been technological advances that have seen a new crowd making waves. The scooter, rudder-free and steered entirely by trimming the sails, has fallen in favourable hands for younger generations looking to transition from water to very thin ice. The lure of the ice and the opportunity that fusion sports provide for a wealth of sporting enthusiasts isn’t something that can be contained. High-definition thrill seeking is at its best when pushed to the absolute limit.

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Ice Yachting

Ski Biking

mojeh men on sport

If you intend on showcasing style as well as ability on-piste, our sports edit will have you covered from board to ski, with the season’s most element-defying pieces.

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mojeh men on sport

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mojeh men on sport

Gaining

Momentum

ombining sports innovation with education is a recipe that works wonders on the new generation of alpine skiers. Throw in a roster of Olympians and that education translates into inspiration. It’s something the teams at Momentum Ski Camps and Giro Sport Design are all too familiar with, and it’s something being implemented now to enforce a change in the way we perceive winter sports. Momentum Camps, long supporters of ski education, with over 22 years experience, are at the forefront of such changes. With a crew built from the most talented skiers in the world, Momentum Camps utilises its prime alpine location the Blackcomb glacier in the southwestern region of Canada to showcase the most progressive form of ski education than any other camp. Essential to their success is director, John Smart. Smart started Momentum Camps in 1992 with his wife Julia. As a two-time Olympian and 10 year member of the Canadian National Freestyle Team as well as the father of two children, Smart knows a thing or two about building a business from the slopes up. ‘Momentum is known for having a really high calibre coaching staff made up of Olympians, World Cup skiers, X-games champions and top pros. They are all great people with positive outlooks on life and they know how to pump up the kids and really help them improve in a short time,’ notes Smart. ‘Momentum has the most diverse terrain, two giant airbags, a large mogul course with jumps, a training absorption tank and a huge park with a diverse range of rails and jumps from beginner to advanced.’

Attractions aside, Momentum Camps is responsible for some of the best skiers in the world, many of whom have returned as coaches. Something that Smart and Momentum Camps have in common is a love of freestyle skiing; a pursuit heavily relied upon by tourists. ‘Our camp has been at the forefront of developing and coaching freestyle skiing for the past 23 years,’ says Smart. ‘We use the best skiers in the world who really know how to perform and take the sport to the next level to come back and coach the younger generation, the stars of tomorrow.’ A success story like Momentum Camps was just too good of an opportunity for the design mavens at Giro Sport Design to pass up, not least because the majority of their sponsored athletes were in fact graduates from the academy. Smart met with Giro at the SIA Trade Show, with the company keen to sponsor the camp straight away. ‘Our camp has been going from strength to strength, we have always been at the forefront of the new school movement since we introduced the first quarterpipe for skiers back in 1997. Sponsors are keen to collaborate with us to reach that core youth demographic that are pushing skiing forward,’ expresses Smart. ‘It’s a great opportunity for Giro to get some extra exposure to a market that is at the cutting edge of skiing. We provide a lot of social media content for them through our photos and edits.’ In tandem with Momentum’s work on the slopes, it has been off them where Giro Sport Design have been instrumental in the development of ski gear for both professionals and enthusiasts alike. Specialising in cycling as well as alpine technology, Giro was formed in 1985 by Jim Gentes and is headquartered in

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Giro Sport Design has teamed up with Momentum Ski Camps in a bid to showcase their design innovations on the next generation of skiers.

mojeh men on sport

California’s Santa Cruz - worlds apart from Momentum’s frozen landscape. The two began collaborating in order to simplify the gadget testing process. In turn skiers were educated on the benefits Giro’s sport innovations had to offer. Brendan Murphey, brand manager of Giro explains how the collaboration with Momentum Camps came about. ‘Giro athletes like Mike Riddle, Alex Schlopy, Justin Dorey, Riley Leboe, and Sochi Olympic Gold Medalist Joss Christenen have coached at the Momentum camps over the years, and we always heard great feedback from our athletes about how much fun they had and how professional the programme was. It only made sense for us to find common ground with John and develop a partnership to help build that next generation of progressive riders.’ From both sides there is a real sense of enthusiasm. Whilst Giro clearly reaps the rewards of having their new gear tested, so too do the campers who experience not only the slopes, but the technology with which to experience them. ‘It’s less about what we gain, and more about what we give back to skiers and the ski community. John Smart and his team have built and fostered a camp structure that really lends itself to the safe and progressive development of skiers,’ continues Murphey. ‘At Giro we have those standards and it made sense

from a personal and brand perspective to want to align with Momentum and offer them the support to continue to succeed and grow their camps.’ It’s an opinion echoed wholeheartedly by Smart himself. In the wake of a technological phenomenon it has been Giro that has driven skiwear to the next level. Instead of relying on past creations the team strive to shape new ideals of how skiers should perform on the slopes. ‘The team at Giro comes from a diverse background of action sports, cycling, art, car culture, the music industry etc. and we pull from our commonalities to create next generation products and shape the brand direction,’ states Murphey. ‘We’re fortunate that we have our own internal design and testing center, called The Dome, where we can take new and innovative concepts - like our proprietary Soft Shell technology - from an idea to an actual product. In regards to some of our more innovative ideas like the Combyn, and its proprietary use of Vinyl Nitrile, we addressed the specific needs of our park and pipe riders where repeated impacts are the inevitable price of progression.’ So whilst Giro innovate in tropical weathers and Momentum riders do all the physical work in the snow, what results can only help increase the peripheral vision of what ski technology has to offer.

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man of adventure

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man of adventure

Against All Odds:

Bear Grylls

We speak to the modern day action man about overcoming adversity, monumental challenges and survival of the fittest.

f we were to admit it, Bear Grylls is the guy we Everest was an incredibly poignant moment for me,’ all slightly wished we were. He’s made a career of Grylls tells us. ‘Not only was it key to my recovery from journeying to the furthest reaches of the world, of a very bad sky diving accident in the army, but it was tackling extremes and, on occasion, has even had the also the fulfillment of a long-held childhood dream.’ odd A-lister join him for the ride. His television shows The ‘accident’ he is referring to happened in Zambia and books are watched and read by millions, he backs where, after jumping from a plane on a military his own survival academy and he has an instrumental exercise, his parachute ripped at 16,000ft. Landing role in shaping the next generation of adventurers in with the weight of his parachute pack on his back, he his role as Chief Scout of The Scout Association. So far, partially crushed three vertebrae and doctors debated so impressive. if he would ever walk again. In many ways Grylls’s The experience was a tough childhood and early career one for Grylls mentally as well as physically, but were always preparing him “Rather than using their to take the mantle as one of after 12 months of military the most eminent and wellrehabilitation at Headley brains, their courage and Court, he set his sights known survival experts of on climbing Everest. ‘It our time. Growing up in their resourcefulness, modern County Down, Northern became the driving force chaps are pre-occupied with Ireland and subsequently to get me well again,’ he explains. And two years on the Isle of Wight, he is far their computers.” from a ‘city child’. At Eaton later he made it. College he helped start the Following his success at prestigious institution’s Everest, Grylls followed it first mountaineering club by circumnavigating the and he has also been a reservist with the British SAS. UK on Jet Skis, crossing the North Atlantic on a rigid As a benchmark for Special Forces worldwide, the SAS inflatable boat and he led the first team to attempt selection process is grueling and only 15% of applicants to paramotor over the jungle plateau of the Angel will make it through the endurance tests required to Falls. In short, he led far from a quiet life. ‘Rather earn a spot in this elite group. than using their brains, their courage and their Before venturing into TV, Grylls had already achieved resourcefulness, modern chaps are pre-occupied with feats that few are capable of. In 1997 he was the their computers,’ Grylls bemoans when we ask about youngest Briton to climb Ama Dablam (once described the appeal and why we’ve always been so interested by Sir Edmund Hillary as ‘unclimable’) and in 1998 he in his exploits. ‘I believe that with the extremity reached the summit of the highest of them all: Everest. of technological advances men are beginning to He was just 23 years old. ‘Reaching the Summit of seriously struggle with what it means to be a man.’

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man of adventure

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man of adventure

Helping to educate us, Grylls first garnered worldwide restraint. Coming from an army background and mainstream attention when his TV show, Born understanding the harsh realities of nature, he isn’t Survivor: Bear Grylls, became an international smash. reckless for the sake of being reckless. ‘There are four Retitled Man vs. Wild and Ultimate Survival for some things that I’m particularly cautious of: saltwater markets, the show involved Grylls being dropped in crocodiles, big white water, crevasses and glaciers. inhospitable environments and then demonstrating I allow a 20% margin for error, rather than 10, for how one could survive. OK, so it’s unlikely many of us these four.’ will find ourselves stranded in the Sierra Nevada or Considering his views on how out of touch we grappling to escape the Costa Rican Rainforest with modern men have become, backing his own survival just a canteen and a knife, but he demonstrated that academy was a natural step. ‘I think people assume survival is more than necessity - it’s entertainment. it’s more difficult than it actually is to get outdoors Whether using a dead sheep as a makeshift sleeping and explore,’ he says. ‘The Bear Grylls Survival bag or demonstrating how to make a snow cave in Academy has been specifically designed to enable an Icelandic blizzard, he had us hooked. every kind of modern man or woman to do just that. But whilst it may all make for must-see television, We have a huge range of survival courses, from 24for Grylls going to ‘work’ isn’t always as incredible hour courses to the intensive five-day survival course as it may seem. The black swamps of Sumatra in the Scottish Highlands. We all have what it takes to posed a particularly unpleasant challenge, with survive in the wilderness, it’s just about reconnecting him describing them as with our instincts.’ the hardest place he’s had In an effort to pass on his own knowledge to survive. ‘The swamps and to ignite the fire of were a 100% unforgiving adventurousness in the environment,’ he explains. “The constant high level of younger generation, ‘They had been badly danger that my job involves Grylls not only provides affected by the Tsunami in 2001 and the whole children’s day courses at is very difficult at times. area had turned into a the Bear Grylls Academy, Particularly given that I have rotting, stinking swamp, but he has nabbed the top riddled with man-eating badge at an organisation a family now.” crocodiles feeding off that has been encouraging human flesh. I’ve never kids to partake in the experienced anything outdoors for over a quite like it.’ century. ‘I’m Chief Scout From the comfort of the sofa, it’s often easy to forget to 28million Scouts worldwide,’ he reminds us, with that there’s an inherent risk factor in what Grylls undeniable pleasure. ‘For me the role is ultimately does. Unlike most TV shows, he isn’t acting on a set centred on giving young people the opportunity to or on location from a cordoned off city street. The have an adventure and learn outdoor skills with their settings are real and the challenges are just that - friends. I’m very proud to be a part of the Scouts.’ challenging. It’s a reality he’s grown uneasy with over Perhaps part of the reason for Bear Gryll’s enduring time. As most people do, he’s settled down, started success is his likeability. He’s of course achieved a a family and created commitments for himself that lot, but he’s also done so with a sense of character aren’t always best served by putting his life on the and virtue that so many of us respond well to. line. ‘The constant high level of danger that my job His inspirational advice often not only applies to involves is very difficult at times. Particularly given dangerous situations but to the everyday as well. that I have a family now,’ he says. ‘Before I was a This duality was summed up neatly in his closing dad I was 100% reckless but I’ve definitely toned it words to us, as well as his salient key to overcoming down as we’ve added to the family. I’m about 90% any obstacle. ‘It is crucially important to remain reckless now.’ Even then, there are certain dangers positive whatever the situation. Never, ever give up that Grylls has always approached with a sense of and always remember to smile when it’s raining.’

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mojeh men on sport

Ski Fashion:

A Sartorial Sloping History

ravel back a century and Arctic explorers were relying on thick wool gabardine layers and animal hide to endure the sub-zero climate. Today the sloping elite revel in lightweight synthetic fibers in bombastic hues to shield themselves from an artificial slope. Of course, the difference here is the manner in which ski clothing is worn. Explorers dressed for survival, the sole purpose of ski garb wasn’t to look good but to test the temperature gauge to the absolute limit. They feared the dreaded cotton; to you or me an integral part of our wardrobes, but to explorers past a dangerous fabric referred to as the ‘death cloth’ for its tendency to dampen easily and stifle its victim. In the grand scheme of things it seems almost comical that cotton could make or

break an expedition, given the death defying drops and vertigo-inducing heights laden on their path to glory. Known as the heroic era, from 1840 to 1917 the likes of Amundsen, Scott and Shackleton, cut their way through the snow, searching for the unknown in anything but cotton. From the 1940s, ski fashion began to establish its purpose. The scientific era was at first lacking in recommendation. Throw on a woolen jumper and belt up a pair of riding breeches (but make sure to tuck them under the socks to avoid the dreaded snow in sock issue), ski style was all about improvisation and trying to avoid the elements. To offset the haphazard pairing of clothes, it was colour choice that set the trend. Having tops and bottoms purposefully alternating in hue was as cool in the 40s as the snow on the ground.

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From great explorers to winter Olympians, ski fashion has evolved as rapidly as a slab avalanche. We explore why sartorial style reigns supreme on the slopes.

mojeh men on sport

Where cotton failed the explorers of yesteryear, it was the invention of Lastex that benefitted ski fashion. With a DNA of nylon, rayon, cotton and silk, Lastex allowed skiers to finally be provided with elasticated cuffs and ankles. Gone were the sock scrunched breeches in favour of sleek and reversible form-fitting attire. Whilst flower power populated the globe and girls fainted at the very sight of The Beatles, it was post-war skiers in the Swinging Sixties and Psychedelic Seventies who learned to let loose on the Alps. Volkswagen travel aside, skiwear became all about colour and panache, where suits were cut sleeker thanks to the invention of the waterproof stretch pant. The poster boy of the 1976 Winter Olympics, Franz Klammer found fame off the

or life size Medusas. The 90s didn’t just introduce questionable style but also the original freeskiers. Formed in response to the wealthy skiing elite, freeskiers rebelled against traditional ski culture, instead favouring snowboarding - the precursor of the freeskiing movement. Snowboarding drew its sartorial tendencies from the streets and the baggy fashion reflected the hip-hop culture of the time. Rather than a definitive cut, silhouette or colour, the millennium brought utility thanks to pockets. The best way to update your ski gear was to ensure pockets were everywhere. If the endless supply of hideaways ironically lost your valuables, you were on the right track, and most importantly on trend.

slopes as well as on them, taking gold in the downhill and donning the winning colour on the cover of Sports Illustrated that year. The age of the sex symbol had been established; even for a man dressed head to toe in what was essentially a nylon yellow bodysuit. Ski clothes became progressively more wearable in the 80s thanks to new silhouettes adopted from classic ski jackets. These puffer vests and parkas were donned by mountain rangers and corporate businessmen alike. When the 90s reared its head, fashion fell to its most stylishly challenged. Crazy colour combinations from decades prior were altered into popular offbeat shades of brown and purple, which played host to the newly established onesie. A neon phenomenon ruled the slopes and with it a whole host of hat-donning ski enthusiasts trying to replicate safari animals

Which brings us right to present day, the age of innovation. Stretch fabric known as Gore-Tex still remains the go-to cloth of choice for on-piste clothing, supported by brands such as Kjus who champion tailored skiwear that allows for movement and waterproofed breathability. Off-piste however, backcountry shells dominate the style agenda, favoured for their resistance to abrasion and multilayering technology that allows their owner to adapt the level of insulation needed. The new generation of ski-bachelors have taken to oversized fur jackets and bandanas whilst sporting unashamedly loud neon trousers. But most feared of all is the rise of the ski-hipster dressed in all his skinny-jeaned, bearded glory. Avoid at all cost or fall victim to a wardrobe of plaid on plaid.

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Season Report

The Call of

the Wild

Where SS14 was a season of wild abandon, this season it’s simply wild. We’re used to seeing our menswear buttoned up, primped and sharply finished. From uptown sophistication to downtown disheveled (albeit artfully so), the runways have always been a pretense for the street - be it Manhattan or Monaco. But for AW14, designers left behind the comfortable urbanite ideal and ventured into altogether more daring territory, tapping into a spirit of adventure and showcasing collections that felt more mountain top or desert dune than city pavement. At Louis Vuitton, Kim Jones took to the Atacama Desert in Chile for inspiration. The oldest, driest desert on Earth, it may not seem an obvious muse for a season internationally associated with bitter colds, but he channeled his perspective on the landscape and the craftsmanship of the indigenous people into pieces that felt weighty - imbued with a refined rustic charm. In his reinterpreted climbing boots and silk parkas, we saw just a hint of Aspen over Atacama. What use would an autumn / winter collection be without a dusting of après ski? The desert explorer also came to town at Paul Smith, with camels and palm trees forming bold prints on accessories and outerwear. With its earthy colour palette and disparate approach to texture, the whole collection felt like a how-to of Bedouin cool. Where Smith referenced the Middle East, Olivier Roustein at Balmain took us to Africa. Here the only locals on display were the wildlife, with zebra and leopard prints adding a touch of pizzazz to jackets and sweaters. Otherwise it was a case of ‘on safari’ and the usual combinations of camo and military greens. The sense that the AW14 man was not only on expedition but thrill seeking was emphasised at Belstaff, where designer Martin Cooper borrowed from classic snaps of the 1965 International Six Day Trial; a vintage year for the oldest off road motorcycle event. At Missoni, Angela Missoni proclaimed surfers her inspiration and opted for comfortable knits (of course) and easy, youthful silhouettes. And at Kenzo, the design duo of Leon and Lim had clearly heard the mountain sound as cragged ranges formed a recurring motif. Overall there was a sense of worldly wonderment permeating the collections. Designers have always plundered the four corners in search of ideas, but for AW14 it felt more purposeful and more encompassing. Be it high seas or high sands, there was a tangible sense that this season the ‘adventure man’ ruled. Whilst many of us will never see the barren plains of the Atacama Desert or take part in an endurance motorcycle race, thanks to the fantasy of fashion, for AW14 we can at least wear the wild, if not hear its call. - 46 -

From mountain man to desert explorer, this season designers riffed off our notions of adventure and brought a spirit of farflung fashion to the runway.

Season Report

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trend Reports

Cable and Combine 1

The cable sweater arrives braided and bonded for AW14. Perfectly attuned to winter dressing, the staple knit showcased undulating rope cords and weaves in a whole manner of shapes and sizes, outfitted in a range of frosty hues perfect for the season. - 48 -

trend Reports

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trend Reports

Layer On Layer 1

Whilst layering is commonplace when dressing for the winter months, it was this season that the trend commanded attention. Experimenting with offbeat silhouettes, designers cut alternating hemlines, overlaid vests with outerwear and added dimension to traditional tailoring in a bid to fight the freeze. - 50 -

trend Reports

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trend Reports

Padded Dimension 1

Outdoor pursuits in extreme conditions demand a durable coat. Winter jackets for AW14 took on a whole new look, padded and puffy and perfect for travel. Padding took its cue from on-piste fashion as designers dressed for the slopes in quilted leather and patchwork high-tech fabrics. - 52 -

trend Reports

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trend Reports

A Graphic Stitch 1

No longer is knitwear restricted to a single stitch, where muted stripes and colours are the only options. AW14 introduced the graphic knit. From traditional Fair Isle and tapestry to flecks and gradient intarsias, designers ensured knitwear arrived bold and bright. - 54 -

trend Reports

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trend Reports

The Shear Lining 1

Taking cue from traditional aviator fashion, designers reintroduced the shearling jacket into our winter wardrobes. From the archetypal silhouette, pieced from caramel leather and brimming with sheepskin, to the new season full-length coat, shearling lined every interior from collar to cuff. - 56 -

trend Reports

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trend Reports

The Staple Suit 1

Synonymous with menswear is the staple suit. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s timeless, trendless and an absolute essential. So it comes as no surprise that designers this season took to the tailored two-piece. Single-breasted, linear and void from unnecessary detail, suits reintroduced the gentleman back into our wardrobes. - 58 -

trend Reports

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trend Reports

Outsized Outerwear 1

With an ease of silhouette, the winter coat enjoyed a seasonal overhaul for AW14. Shapes were outsized in cocoon-like proportions, swallowing forms with elongated ponchos, capes and caban coats. Cut in luxe finishes from tweed to flecked wool, oversized outerwear provided more than enough room for sartorial layering. - 60 -

trend Reports

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Mojeh men on style

DiorHomme: A Unique Proposition By Dan Hasby-Oliver

All images Gaetan Bernard

Men have long sought flexibility within clothing; to wear on adventures between the city and the country or as modern nomads consistently on the move between continents. As menswear slowly moves on from structured formality towards a fresh, lifestyle driven standpoint, so Dior Homme under the direction of Kris Van Assche looks at the dichotomy of the high end and the ‘high end of the street’ for autumn / winter 2014. By almost resurrecting Monsieur Dior himself through subtle cues and clues, Van Assche incorporated Dior’s personal motifs into the collection. A superstitious man, it seems that through his journey and exploration of life he picked up Lily of the Valley, the star, the heart and the coin as his good luck charms. They’re found in this collection in the guise of embroideries, prints, patterns and knits. Masculine interpretations of luck, extravagance and playfulness were also represented though jewellery and white metal lapel pins. Van Assche has deeply explored the house’s archive, finding a bridge between the masculine and the feminine, yet recontextualised these elements for a contemporary man. The idea of the formality of Savile Row has long fascinated designers producing tailoring yet at Dior Homme, the feeling of three or four buttoned suits felt stimulating and new. Similarly, a hyper-enlarged rose, taken from the Dior Haute Couture archive was

placed onto a loose, navy flowing pinstripe overcoat that recreated the exhilaration of the 1940s New Look. As menswear experiences a shift towards capturing and embodying a man’s more active way of life, so too has Van Assche - but he has not neglected the ‘decade referencing’ that often captures the industry’s imagination. For the show, British youth culture swept through the Paris venue, with a heavy focus on Parka jackets reminiscent of Modish teenagers speeding though the English seascape. This rebellious streak in the collection could almost be compared to the breakaway of tradition in many contemporary interpretations of formalwear, but Van Assche always anchored the past with the present. His ridged proposition of ‘utility, jeans and sneakers’ further demonstrated his exploration of streetwear, but with fresh eyes. As seen on street-style blogs, by way of peacocking fashion insiders and aficionados, the now ubiquitous yet highly desirable luxury sneaker captured a more contemporary side of this heritage story. What should have been a flash-in-the-pan trend to capture the excitement of the 2012 Olympics, sneakers and sportswear have evolved from the street to become the newest story of fashion. Covered in polka dots, this statement print took over entire looks and was embroidered over everything, transforming the conventional into the unconventional.

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Mojeh men on style

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Accessory Reports

Gloves Off Damir Doma

Protect your paws from the brutal winter winds this autumn / winter with the classic leather glove. Seen on the runways of Damir Doma and Giorgio Armani, these practical mitts are suitably warm and oh-so durable. - 64 -

Accessory Reports

Hat Hunt Living a life accustomed to the outdoors requires headgear built for durability. At HermĂŠs the hat came in fleece-lined leather hunting shapes with toggle detailing. A universal shape, the hunting hat protects ears as well as those style credentials. - 65 -

HermĂŠs

Accessory Reports

Back Pack Iceberg

Revived from summer, the rucksack made an appearance on the runways of Iceberg and Dolce & Gabbana. Designed specifically for extreme sporting affairs, elevated with quilting and zippered hardware, the rucksack is as practical as it is stylish. - 66 -

Accessory Reports

Snow Step Drawing inspiration from garb donned by great explorers, designers reworked the snow boot with sneaker-like proportions. Over at Raf Simons, crafted lacquered versions in high-top shapes made their journey, complete with neon treads and toe guard. - 67 -

Raf Simons

mojeh men designer interview

K e n z o

KENZO is undoubtedly a brand in ascension. With its got-to-haveit pieces and ever-growing following, it is fast becoming a global powerhouse of style. We speak to Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, KENZO’s creative directors.

esign duo Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have carved a name for themselves as deities of cool. It is a relationship that has been forged with time and their loyal - almost fanatical - following could rival that of an international pop star. When they took the reigns at KENZO in 2012, it was clear the brand would undergo something of a rejuvenation; how could it not with these titans of youthful creativity overseeing the collections? But it is only now that we can appreciate the extent of the transformation that has been wrought, with their motif-heavy pieces a staple of street style blogs and Fashion Week front rows. ‘Our main aim at KENZO is to recreate the excitement and energy that existed for the brand when Mr Takada was still here,’ they tell us. ‘The accessible, democratic

approach to clothing and the KENZO experience is unique and we’re having a great time on this journey. We’re both very curious people by nature and love to approach things that have never been done before. It’s important for us to grow as designers and as businesspeople by creating things people will get excited about. It makes our job all the more fun of course.’ Their symbiotic approach is nothing unique of course. The fashion world is known for its talented duos and an overall propensity for collaboration, but with Lim and Leon there is a specific synchronicity that feels special. Like a long-lasting love affair, their relationship exemplifies a ‘je ne sais quoi’ connection present only with the greats – Dolce and Gabbana, the Caten twins, the boys from Proenza Schouler. ‘What’s better than spending your work life with people you enjoy hanging out with and whose talents you respect?’ they gush when we ask about their partnership and history. ‘We love working together and have incorporated this ethos of collaborating with people we are friends with into our work. We have known each other for two decades and it was over 12 years ago now that we launched Opening Ceremony.’ It was with Opening Ceremony that the duo made their name of course. Starting out as a single store in downtown New York, it is now a global brand encompassing everything from a department store to a TV channel. They are understandably close to it but quick to point out that, despite now having two fashion behemoths to direct, the two organisations remain intrinsically separate. ‘They’re very distinct and we have two completely separate teams,’ they explain. ‘We have introduced a more collaborative ethos at KENZO, but apart from opening the company up to a more diverse and open-minded work environment, there is very little crossover.’ The two companies might be separate but one thing that clearly echoes through is the vision of Leon and Lim. With Opening Ceremony they fearlessly

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mojeh men designer interview

presented fashion to the world and trusted that it would be embraced. With KENZO they are doing the same. Their inspirations are diverse but nonetheless they’ve managed to carve out a new identity for a brand that was arguably in decline. Be it the now iconic tiger or the sweeping lashes of a branded eye, there’s something identifiable in every item. ‘Kenzo Takada was very inspired by the world around him and that meant animals, flowers and all of the possibilities with colour and print. We joined KENZO with the hope of continuing that energy and bringing the element of jungle back to the brand,’ they say. ‘The tiger we introduced has been such a success and is now an icon of the brand. We’re delighted that it has been embraced and we look to introduce more icons in the future.’

For AW14 they combined their affinity for the natural world with a love of the inherently unnatural - the world of cinema. ‘We were actually inspired by the works of David Lynch,’ they say. ‘Diners, pictures of cabins in the woods, neon lights, everything that reminds you of the moodiness of one of his movies. That’s why you can really feel those traditional aspects of Northwestern Americana. We felt incredibly strongly about that kind of visual and so worked on how we could translate that imagery into KENZO clothing.’ It ultimately played out in a myriad of equally successful ways. Rugged landscapes stretched across outerwear, electrical checks brought vivid life to trousers and jackets and faux fur coats brought to mind the wildlife of the wilderness – an Alaskan bear meets

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mojeh men designer interview

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mojeh men designer interview

modern man. It created an interesting dialogue when viewing the label in its broadest context: founded by a Japanese man, based in Paris and now reveling in allout rustic Americana. For Leon and Lim it’s clear that while there is a KENZO DNA to be respected, they’re not going to be beholden to the brand’s European or Asian roots. This is their time and their story. ‘Being Americans, we wanted to show what has inspired us throughout our own personal journeys,’ they explain. ‘We loved the work of David Lynch and so it made sense to do a collection we could create as an ode. We were delighted when he was as enthused as we were about our project and agreed to design the set for our AW14 women’s show.’ Another chapter of their story is also a topical one: responsible fashion. Let’s be honest, they wouldn’t be at the top of their game and appeal to such a savvy audience if they didn’t care about the planet. Their No Fish No Nothing collection gave the KENZO customer the opportunity to wear their environmental allegiances on their sleeve. Fashion is far from a green business and with CSR so high on the modern day agenda, this was the design duo’s way of making their position clear. ‘For our spring / summer 2014 collections we were inspired by California and the ocean. We thought it would be a good moment to use

the platform we have, find a charity and give back to the world,’ they say. ‘The Blue Marine Foundation are amazing, and what they do to protect our oceans and all marine life is truly staggering. We’re continuing to work with them and will have another project to discuss very soon.’ But for two individuals so clearly interested in environmental issues, how do they manage to tame a beast as large as KENZO? ‘It’s such a big discussion for us as we really want to do our reasonable best to ensure the protection of the planet, but we do have to be realistic about what’s possible when working in a company as large as KENZO. Even refraining from printing every email is important to us,’ they say. ‘Obviously it would be amazing if they could create solar powered airplanes, but for now we’ll wait and do our best with recycling, sourcing materials from legitimately run factories and our next project with the Blue Marine Foundation.’ KENZO continues to go from strength to strength but perhaps it’s greatest strength is its design team. Carol Lim and Humerto Leon have proven themselves capable of the one thing that most designers crave, the ability to tap into the zeitgeist. With an established following, a keen sense of cool and the talent to turn a sweater into a street style star, it’s clear there is more to their repertoire than a tiger and an eye.

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A Primitive Nature Fendi AW14

If there’s one thing that defines Silvia Venturini Fendi, it’s her ability to utilise fur in the most innovative of ways. Milan is of course the world’s leading supplier of fur, exhibiting annually at the Mifur exhibition during the spring, and it was this material that permeated the AW14 presentation. The venue was covered from floor to ceiling with shaggy goat fur, which was repurposed post-runway as carpets for the Fendi Casa Company. Silvia referenced the extreme outer elements in a collection dubbed ‘Metropolitan Highlander’. By way of surrounding the Fendi man with fur she proposed a familiar primitive aesthetic, one that alluded to the house’s relationship between the atavistic nature of fur with the linearity of modern day men’s clothing. Whilst fur is a controversial subject in the fashion world, Silvia instead proposed a new ideal, allowing her audience a chance to decipher between the real and the fake. It was a dichotomy of the exotic and the sustainable, where any sighting of crocodile that glistened on a biker jacket or paneled winter coat was in fact stamped leather or neoprene.

There was an emphasis on hybrid knitwear; Silvia introduced latticed wool that morphed into shaggy frayed shearling with a needle-punched technique. It added an extra dimension to a staple winter basic. The concept of hybrids shaped outerwear too. Woven camel hair fed into supple leather, whilst brushed fur funneled tweed jackets in great lapel proportions. The collection approached layering in typical winter fashion, pairing full-length coats with merino knits and cardigans, introducing tactile shearling bomber jackets over suits and adding volume with gargantuan fur collars. Silvia redefined the threepiece suit, replacing the waistcoat with a V-neck merino jumper that added a casual ease to a flecked navy number. Aside from the Fendi uniform, Silvia proposed accessories with a functional mindset. The archetypal leather holdall in shades of grey, sported mohair key chains. Rucksacks from spring made an appearance, held in-hand and pieced from foldover grain leather. Elsewhere, fur was used to cover boxing mitts and hunting hats, both perfect accompaniments to a wardrobe tailored for a great winter expedition.

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Show Reports

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Style in Geology Louis Vuitton AW14

A Bhutanese escapade through the dreamy cloud forest of the Himalayas served as design inspiration for the Louis Vuitton AW14 collection. Style director, Kim Jones, extended his trip to the Atacama Desert in Chile to explore the geology of the most ancient desert on earth, during the season’s windiest climate. Surrounding the venue was a hand painted fully realised aerial image of Atacama, where between the hills an array of models loomed, ready to showcase Jones’s take on Chilean dress. In a bid to return to house codes, he looked to nature and its elements, exploring outerwear that produced a blend of formal tailoring and practical daywear in colours influenced by the landscape and cloths of Chile’s indigenous community. His explorer came layered in ultra soft leather commuter coats and brushed wool shearling duffels. They were encased in cashmere cocoon shapes and emblazoned with playful leopard print furs embellished with rustic buttons reflective of mountain sediment. Jones riffed on ideals of extreme sports; slick ski glasses, fuzzy zippered fur vests and matte leather hybrid trousers, ideal for an Alpine getaway.

The use of heavy-duty ski boots, here revamped in spongy neoprene and chrome hardware, offset the traditional leather bluchers that Jones offered. In hand were foldover leather clutches imprinted with Vuitton’s signature Damier check and monogrammed duffle bags lined with shearling and elevated with luggage handles, compasses and camping flasks. But the collection wasn’t just built for the 21st Century explorer; Jones referenced tradition in draped oneshoulder scarves woven from wool and alpaca, materials that fed onto chubby ribbed knitwear in earthy hues. He garnered an Andean native wool called vicuña into bespoke made-to-order capsule looks that consisted of a blouson, coat and lounging suit, finely tuned for Louis Vuitton’s exclusive clientele. Implementing such luxury caused Jones to replace traditional sportswear fabrics with silk and treated shearling instead of high-performance synthetic or nylon, still however the collection voiced a practical sensibility with reversible outerwear and flecked track pants that introduced a whole new meaning to loungewear. For what’s the purpose of travel if not to do it in complete and utter comfort?

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Show Reports

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The Polar Express Moncler Grenoble AW14

As far as fashion presentations go, Moncler Grenoble is mountains-high in the showmanship stakes. Combine the Pendulum Choir with a Swiss all-male a cappella group and set it to the lilt of a traditional Alpine soundtrack. And then of course, there was the fashion. Ski fashion to be exact, clad on members of the Pendulum Choir who mounted themselves on mechanised pedestals that swayed mid song. Moncler Grenoble is nothing but an expert when it comes to dressing for the slopes. Conceived in response to the main Moncler line, Grenoble incorporates garb for the most treacherous summits. Whilst function is prioritised above style in the majority of sporting events, Moncler Grenoble instead showcases mountain technology devised for the metropolitan man. Labeled ‘The Winter Symphony,’ AW14 focused on the concept of mixed media, with traditional fabrics given a high-tech nylon overhaul. Synonymous with the Moncler lexicon is the use of English wool. The traditions of which were given a contemporary makeover with thermal and drip-proof treatments devised for the winter summit. In outerwear the collection introduced a whole new weight. Coats

utilised breathable and three-dimensional waterproof mesh, which in turn bulked out the silhouette. The method of style and function was applied to a range of ‘longue saison’ nylon down jackets in a variety of bold primary colours, ingeniously detachable and entirely waterproof. Moncler pushed the innovation within clothing interiors, emphasising technical details with functional toggles and zippers. They also referenced a throwback to heritage skiwear in printed nylon looks that created a tweed effect. It added a two-fold spirit to the clothes with a modern yet timeless duality. This technique also applied to citylook trousers pieced from wool or fine corduroy that concealed a nylon core, allowing for an easy transition to performance wear. Fur meanwhile, was an integral thermal finish to the hoods of overcoats or peaked on heads in great fuzzy trapper styles, as prominent as a mountain yeti. No doubt the Moncler man will be sporting the shearling lined hunting caps and padded gloves as they take to the incline. Perhaps not as buoyant as the Pendulum Choir however, but who can compete with a hydraulic platform?

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Show Reports

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mojeh men on style

Behind the Brand:

Canada Goose This issue we look to Canada Goose, a Canadian outerwear brand that puts authenticity and practicality at the forefront of its endeavours.

Can you tell us about the core ethos of the brand? Authenticity is everything to us. When we first started making down-filled parkas in the 1970s, we produced them for industrial workers in some of the coldest places on Earth. Over the years we evolved our product lines and introduced new styles, but we’ve always stayed true to making best-inclass, high quality products that work. That’s what consumers want: authentic products from real brands. Anyone can stick a label on something and call it a brand, but it doesn’t make them real. We believe that to be an authentic brand Canada Goose parkas have to be manufactured in Canada. I always say you can’t make a Swiss watch in China, and you can’t make a Canada Goose coat in China either. What sets you apart? Being made in Canada gives us a huge competitive advantage. About 15 years ago, the general thinking was that people didn’t care about ‘Made in Canada’ at all and many Canadian apparel manufacturers moved their business overseas to grow profit margins. Now we’re seeing a number of apparel brands following in our footsteps and coming back to North America because they know it’s important to consumers. It also comes down to making a really great product. Word of mouth marketing has been a huge driver in our marketing success on a global scale. Can you tell us about some of the ‘Goose People’ and in what ways they represent the ethos of Canada Goose? The idea for Goose People started in 2007, when we first published a coffee table book called Goose People: Fifty people for fifty years, to celebrate our 50th anniversary. Since then, the concept has evolved and become a core part of our internal ideology. Goose People are people who dream big dreams and take big swings, in whatever way they choose to, and people who stand for something bigger than themselves. People like Lance Mackey, a world-champion dogsledder who is the only person to ever win both the Iditarod and Yukon Quest races in the same year; and Ray Zahab, an ultramarathoner who has run thousands of miles across desolate and treacherous terrain like the Sahara Desert; and Laurie Skreslet, the first Canadian to summit Mount Everest. They embody our values and our mission.

You have a variety of ‘outdoor performance’ categories – from Arctic Program to Altitude – can you tell us about some of the key design principles implemented across the ranges? Our Arctic Program is designed for those looking for ultimate protection from the cold and includes a range of jackets – from the heavy-duty Snow Mantra known as the warmest jacket in the world and made to wear in the coldest places on Earth, to more urban styles for everyday wear in the city. When it comes to design, function is always first. Every feature and detail is there for a reason, from a hood trimmed with coyote fur to protect the face from frostbite, to long rib-knit cuffs to keep out the cold, to fleece-lined pockets for added warmth and comfort. The Altitude Collection is designed for mountaineering and includes three styles: Skreslet Parka, Mountaineer Jacket and Summit Parka. We worked with Goose Person Laurie Skreslet, the first Canadian to summit Mount Everest, back in the 1980s to make a jacket that would perform in the harsh conditions he faced in climbing Everest. Who is your customer? Our customer wants something from a real brand with a real history and a truly authentic product that performs exactly as it was intended to. Canada Goose has developed a following of men who are more likely to be seen on the city streets than in the snowy wilderness. What is the appeal of the label and how does Canada Goose combine practicality and performance with a sense of aesthetics? Our DNA is rooted in the outdoors and our products are worn in some of the coldest places on Earth. We have a long history of supplying outerwear for scientists, film crews and industrial workers, so consumers trust and rely on us to protect them wherever they are because we are the real thing - functionality remains at the core of every jacket. What is your success story? We actually saw a lot of success in Europe first, as Europeans were hungry for an authentic, best-in-quality brand of Canadian-made outerwear. They loved the Canadian ideology of the Great White North, and for them, the connection between outerwear designed for warmth and the Canadian climate was obvious and immediate. Owning a Canada Goose jacket is like owning a piece of Canada!

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mojeh men on style

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Fashion hunter

En Route Escaping to a far away destination, be it via air, sea or land, calls for a capsule travelling wardrobe. Opt for smarter pieces in a muted palette by combining a crisp shirt with a pair of tailored trousers. Finish off the look with a hefty winter overcoat. And donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget the suitcase, on four wheels of course.

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Fashion hunter

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Fashion hunter

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Braving the

Elements For climate-defying gear, look to fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s take on practical wear. Fur-lined, padded and winter warm, dressing for the extremes involves a commitment to layering. Integrate reworked argyle knitwear into your wardrobe or bring along a utilitarian holdall for lengthy excursions away. Whilst you may not be able to tame the elements, you can have style on your side.

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Fashion hunter

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man of design

Giuseppe Santoni

Defined by Italian craftsmanship and influenced by heritage design, Santoni is the bespoke footwear label loved by many. We speak to CEO Giuseppe Santoni about the design process and the effect of a bourgeoning global market.

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f made-to-measure is anything to go by, Santoni are at the forefront of luxury design. Since the label’s formation in 1975, Santoni have strived to redefine the classic gentleman’s shoe, season after season. The brand originated with Andrea Santoni but has since passed a generation down and now rests in the capable hands of his son Giuseppe. His mission? To oversee the expansion of a brand built from a local workshop to a global company. The Santoni DNA relies heavily on the importance of Italian production, refined with tradition and challenged by innovation. ‘I’m a very ambitious person, with a strong passion for perfection and beauty,’ says Santoni. ‘This is what drives me every day. I consider myself very lucky as I inherited an excellent company making an excellent product from my father, who was a visionary. He was able to find his own way to be different and unique by making masterpieces for a discerning public.’ The challenge to differentiate the label from other luxury footwear brands that dominate the Italian market only fuels Santoni’s passion for tradition. ‘We still make shoes by the rule book, maintaining the ancient and authentic techniques of shoemaking. Our uniqueness is in combining craft with design and artisanal techniques with contemporary design - from the classic men’s shoes, to the women’s shoes and up to the trainers and accessories.’ In order for a legacy to survive it needs to adapt. This is an integral mantra for the Santoni brand, which has challenged the ways in which heritage design is perceived by marrying it with a modern verve. ‘Santoni’s products are synonymous with quality and contemporary style. Our expertise with handmade techniques is essential not only for the quality of our product, but for our brand,’ he explains. ‘We are not an extreme fashion company but our design is never ordinary, there is always something special and unique even in the most classic styles.’ Santoni not only places value on its clientele but on its team. Expanding to over 450 employees since formation has done nothing to diminish the label’s key values. Internally Santoni emphasise communication and collaboration to ensure a consistent brand aesthetic is evident in each and every shoe that leaves the workshop. ‘We have a young team of designers. Before starting the creative process they usually travel a lot to international cities in search of inspiration. This way we can have an open and global perspective,’ notes Santoni. ‘They don’t just sketch; they cooperate with our technicians and our best artisans to understand the production aspects of each new creation. Our team really work together from the very beginning of the process.’

man of design

Environmentally friendly production is also a major part of the Santoni ethos. It’s rare to see a label so deeply rooted in heritage design adopting the tendencies of modern production. ‘We use the best natural materials prepared with no chemicals; even the leathers we use are naturally tanned,’ explains Santoni. ‘The same approach was employed in projecting our new HQ. The materials used in the production of the building are 90% recyclable. All of the buildings are covered by almost 4000 photovoltaic panels that ensure the production of more than 1.000.000 kW per year of green energy. We are proud to say that Santoni shoes are created with ‘zero impact’. In my opinion, this is a responsibility that every entrepreneur should have.’ Since Giuseppe Santoni’s appointment, he has proved that expansion, even on a global scale, isn’t a detrimental factor in providing exquisite service. With flagship stores that span Milan, Rome, Moscow and Beijing to as far as Tokyo, the Santoni values are cherished more than ever. ‘Our ambition is to embody a sort of timeless elegance. Our idea is to start from the classic and make it contemporary and innovative in the proportion, combination of

“It’s rare to see a label so deeply rooted in heritage design adopting the tendencies of modern production.”

the materials and color proposal,’ says Santoni. ‘In this sense, our design can be considered quite global. Then of course we make specific designs for countries with strong regional identities, like the Arabic sandals for instance.’ As distribution picks up pace and an online presence becomes all the more important, it has been Santoni that has transitioned deftly between the personal and the digital. Santoni World, featured on their ecommerce site, provides consumers with trend showcases and new season collections. ‘Ecommerce represents the new frontier of fashion businesses, even for luxury products,’ stresses Santoni. ‘Our community of loyal clients also follow us online. We have the opportunity to reach countries where our distribution isn’t present yet, and of course to increase our brand awareness and sales in general. We have very ambitious expectations.’ - 85 -

On Solid

Ground Wrapped in earthy hues, accessorising for autumn / winter calls on durable pieces fit for roaming the terrain. Few things define the colder season more than a pair of fur lined leather gloves and fringed scarf. And whilst on solid ground a sturdy pair of leather boots are a seasonal essential.

BURBERRY PRORSUM

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accessory hunter

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A View to

the Sea

Whilst these pieces aren’t engineered for the depths, they’re a surefire way of showcasing this season’s reference to nautical life. Echoing hues of the sea, accessories arrived with a practical sensibility - be it a marine timepiece or a pair of white-soled slip-on shoes, ideal for commanding the deck.

JIL SANDER

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accessory hunter

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when in brooklyn Photographed by Riccardo Vimercati, Styled by Romina Herrera Malatesta

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Jacket, shirt and sunglasses, SAINT LAURENT

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Jacket, EMPORIO ARMANI | Shirt, ROCHAMBEAU | Trousers, VERSACE | Shoes, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

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Jacket and vest, ANTONIO MARRAS | Trousers, COSTUME NATIONAL | Watch, OMEGA

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Coat, jacket and trousers, VERSACE

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Coat and trousers, LOUIS VUITTON | Tank top, CALVIN KLEIN

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Coat, NEIL BARRETT | Tank top, CALVIN KLEIN | Trousers, VERSACE | Shoes, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA | Sunglasses, JACK SPADE

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Pyjama trousers, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA | Watch, OMEGA

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Jacket and trousers, RALPH LAUREN | Shirt, CALVIN KLEIN

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Coat and trousers, VERSACE | Watch, OMEGA

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Shirt, FINGERS CROSSED | Boxers, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA | Watch, OMEGA

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Shirt and trousers, PRADA

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Model: Aurelien Muller at One Management Photographerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistants: Leonardo Ventura and Sidney Bensimon Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistants: Carolyn Brennan, Caitlin Cowger and Giorgia Fuzio Grooming: Enrico Mariotti at Art Department Casting: Roger Innis at Boom Productions Local production: James at Prime Pictures Production: Louis Agency

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Pilgrimâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Progress

Photographed by Matthew Scrivens Styled by Julie Ragolia

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Turtleneck, double breasted jacket and trousers, HARDY AIMES | Scarf and pocket square, HUGO BOSS | Hat, WORTH & WORTH

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Scarf, JANE CARR | Knit and fur sweater, BILLY REID | Trench coat, DKNY | Trousers, PHILLIP LIM

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Turtleneck, PHILLIP LIM | Scarf, JANE CARR | Bolero, JULIE RAGOLIA FOR SENHOA | Coat, TOPMAN

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Vest, JOHN VARVATOS | Knit cardigan and scarf, HUGO BOSS | Cotton trousers, PAUL SMITH

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Shirt, vest and coat, MARGIELA | Trousers, DKNY | Scarf, JANE CARR | Hat, WORTH & WORTH

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Turtleneck, MARGIELA | Double breasted coat, HARDY AIMES | Shearling and leather vest, PHILLIP LIM

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Silk dress shirt, DIESEL BLACK GOLD | Trench coat, PAUL SMITH | Trousers,

PHILLIP LIM | Tie, John Varvatos

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Sweater, HARDY AMIES | Henley, MERZ B. SCHWANEN

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Sweater, BROOKS BROTHERS | Scarf, HUGO BOSS | Coat, TOPSHOP

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T-shirt, MERZ B. SCHWANEN | Jumpsuit, DSQUARED2 | Pocket square, HUGO BOSS | Coat and boots, BROOKS BROTHERS

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Models: Hampus at Wilhelmina, Reid at Wilhelmina, Alex Cunha at DNA, Matt Mcglone at IMG, Eric Bryant at Ford, Malcolm De Ruiter at Ford Grooming: Enrico Mariotti at Art Department Local production: De Facto Production: Louis Agency

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the waiting game Photographed by Riccardo Vimercati Styled by Brian Coats

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Shirt and tie, THOM BROWNE | Glasses, GARRETT LEIGHT X MARK MCNAIRY | Watch, VACHERON | Bracelet, MIANSAI | Tie bar, THE TIE BAR

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Jacket, ROBERTO CAVALLI | Turtleneck, TOM FORD | Sunglasses, LINDA FARROW

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T-shirt and bracelet, TOM FORD | Watch, ZENITH | Necklace, TIFFANY & CO

Sweatpants, BOTTEGA VENETA | Necklace, DIOR HOMME | Watch and cologne, BULGARI

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Sweater, DIOR HOMME | Watch, BREMONT | Bracelet, PAUL SMITH

Sweater, PRADA | Watch, ROLEX | Necklace and bracelet, MIANSAI

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Model: Danny Beauchamp at Soul Artist Management Digital technician: David Burlacu Photographerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistant: Marco Giannavola Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistant: Whitney Michel Grooming: Lisa Raquel Baines Casting: Roger Innis at Boom Productions Local production: James at Prime Pictures Production: Louis Agency

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mojeh men on grooming

The Best of

Both Worlds

Whether easy and low-maintenance or sharp and boardroom-ready, we challenged Y-12 salon’s Luca Comelia and Davide Losi to offer us two looks that encapsulate the duality of our modern lifestyles.

Off-Duty: Luca Comelia, Director ‘This classic look is always in style. Its mini layers create fullness yet lots of texture, making this haircut fresh and easy to maintain. It is ideal for dynamic, sporty men or for those that run a very tight schedule. A trim every 3-5 weeks is recommended to keep it renewed and sharp around the outer-line.  Just a little craft clay is needed to highlight the texture and achieve a styled but unfussy look.’

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mojeh men on grooming

Images: Sarvenaz Hashtroudi

On-Duty: Davide Losi, Style Director ‘For me this cut is a timeless classic. It’s got that 50s feel to it that reminds me of enduring male style icons like James Dean, and can be easily transformed into a slightly more aggressive and modern look by creating disconnections. Versatile and easy to style, it can be adapted to a day in the office with a polished finish using the Sebastian Molding Mud, and to night with a messier and matt look using the Sebastian Craft Clay.’

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mojeh men on grooming

From skincare essentials built to fight the fatigue and combat the elements, to signature fragrances elevated for extreme sporting pursuits, we present our grooming essentials for the season. 2

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mojeh men on grooming

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mojeh men review

Image: Sarvenaz Hashtroudi

On Par with

the Rest?

Whilst golf balls might be more associated with sports, at Dubai’s 1847 they’re putting them to use for a new brand of massage. We took to the spa to try it out. Dubai’s grooming company 1847 has long been the go-to destination for chaps looking for a little maintenance or relaxation. With five locations reaching from JBR to Mirdif City Centre, it has become synonymous with professional, unpretentious and hassle-free treatments – ideal for guys on the go looking to forgo the pomp of glitzy hotel spas. One of the latest treatments, the golf ball massage, has already proved something of a hit. But is it a hole in one or a shot into the bunker? On the surface you might think this massage a little gimmicky. What possible benefit could golf balls have over the welltrained fingers of a professional masseuse? Firstly this is a deep tissue massage, designed to target specific problem areas, particularly those associated with sport. So where usually there would be a knuckle driven into the neck, or an elbow forced along the ridge of a scapula, instead the golf balls allow the practitioner to disperse the pressure in a way that feels comfortable but vigorous. Before you’ve even disrobed you’ll be asked which areas you’d like to concentrate on. Whilst there’s of course a standard programme that covers everything from the feet up, there’s also an element of personal preference – a little extra

attention for the shoulders for those who’ve had a stressful day, the legs for those who’ve been pounding the treadmill. What 1847 lacks in high-luxe grandeur, it comfortably makes up for in quality of service. The staff are attentive, warm and accommodating, but most of all good at what they do. Our therapist Yana seamlessly transitioned between using her hands, her arms, her elbows and of course, the golf balls, to offer a massage that felt comprehensively soothing. So is it a gimmick? Well on the one hand of course it is. The golf connection creates an interesting hook for the sports aficionados among us, and a talking point for the office. (And what’s wrong with that? We guys love a gimmick.) More importantly however, it’s a gimmick that works. Afterwards our muscles felt supple, our joints were eased and the whole experience left other more brutal deep tissue massages in the shade. Having approached the experience with a modicum of reserve we’ve been won over and will definitely be returning to golf, both on and off the green. Available at 1847 salons across Dubai.

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EVERYTHING IN MOJEH MAGAZINE IS AVAILABLE TO

BY CONTACTING LOUIS FOURTEEN.

T : + 9 7 1

( 4 )

4 5 4

2 0 5 0

W : l o u i s f o u r t e e n . c o m

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most desired

Tom Dixon Brit is Back

Established in 2002, Tom Dixon is the eponymous product design label from one of Britain’s foremost industrial designers. Inspired by ‘the nation’s unique heritage’, it produces ‘extraordinary objects for everyday use.’ Although perhaps most known for its high-concept furniture and lighting fixtures, Tom Dixon also deals in desirable, beautifully crafted household and lifestyle objects. Be it a doorstop in the shape of a brogue, cast in copper plated aluminium, or understated wallets in vegetable tanned Italian leather, there is a piece for every modern male. Particularly enticing are the label’s range of candles, which come in heady, masculine varieties such as Earth (a concoction of mint, cedar and gualac wood) or Fire, with Cypriol oil, musk and amber – reminiscent of scorched timber or hot tarmac. With the namesake creative director having been awarded an OBE for services to British design and with his work displayed in the likes of the V&A, MoMA and the Centre Pompidou, this is one brand with creative pedigree.

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most desired

Brooks Brothers Gentlemen Prefer Books

Navigating the pitfalls of modern life can be a challenge for many men but thanks to a range of books from Brooks Brothers, America’s oldest men’s clothing chain, we need no longer sweat the details. With indispensable guides on everything from dining to travel, they’ve quite literally written the book on how to remain a gentleman in any situation. Whether it be how to tackle a lobster without staining your dinner suit or the best way to fold a pocket square, each leather bound tome provides essential and lighthearted tips on all of the things you’ve always wanted to know, but never wanted to ask. With gold-leafed pages and a classic navy finish, each compact edition will gradually add to a veritable library of advice and etiquette, equipping you with all you need to know to take on the world with confidence, panache and a great deal of style.

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most desired

Ultrasone A Sound Choice

A synergy between exceptional sound quality and smooth good looks, Ultrasone headphones are among the most exclusive in the world. Headquartered close to the Alps in Weilenbach, the company is known for its discerning clientele and commitment to superiority - with a loyal following that includes everyone from hip-hop royalty to boardroom dragons. Ultrasone’s Edition 10s are hand-made in Germany and feature clasps made from Zebrano wood - which is echoed in the artfully designed stand that accompanies them – whilst the Edition 12s feature a headband covered in luxurious leather from the Ethiopian long-haired sheep, ear pads in fine microvelour and specially produced aluminium inlays. Whilst it’s the bold sense of aesthetics that will catch the eye, it’s the unrivalled sound quality that will ensnare the ear. Ultrasone’s patented S-Logic technology is described as a ‘3-dimensional, natural surround sound system’, creating an immersive experience that leaves traditional headphones feeling dreary by comparison.

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most desired

Valentino Rock Star

We’ve all come to embrace the fashion trainer as a style essential. For the past few seasons the sports look has been less about practical wear and more about statement pieces in comfortable, athletic varieties and luxe materials. One of the forerunners is Valentino, a house that has embraced ‘high-end casual’ with a sense of sophistication and a directional eye. Its camouflage trainers have been a firm favourite since their inception in SS13, and for AW14 the house continues on the same track with the Rockrunner. With a colour palette of rubin, light grey, camel and marine, the AW14 Rockrunner eschews OTT military in favour of dapper restraint. Created using laser cut leather, which is heat sealed upon a fabric base and printed upon, the camouflage print is as much an exercise in craftsmanship as aesthetics.

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most desired

Alfred Dunhill Given the Slip

Few things say classic male sophistication more than a natty dress slipper and for AW14, dunhill have weighed in on the velvet game with a range of made-to-order styles in racing green, chocolate brown and royal blue. Made in England, they’re available emblazoned with either an embroidered English bulldog wearing Bobby Finders (Alfred Dunhill’s policeman-spotting binoculars) or the dunhill London monogram. Urbane but unfussy, these witty soles exemplify dunhill’s legacy of creating menswear that stands out, even when standing still. Interesting fact: Alfred Dunhill’s ‘Bobby Finders’ are so called because following his arrest for speeding at a whopping 22 and a half miles per hour in 1903, he created a pair of binoculars masquerading as motoring goggles. Their purpose? To assist the Edwardian gent in spotting ‘a policeman at half a mile, even if disguised as a respectable man.’

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most desired

D.R. Harris A Clean Shave

It’s easy for the morning routine to start to feel, well, routine, but we shouldn’t settle for out-and-out practicality over quality and a sense of style. One institution to add a little elegance to the everyday is heritage brand D.R. Harris. A favourite with the British royal family and European aristocracy, it is developing an international reputation as a go-to label for men’s grooming. A chemist and perfumer since 1790, D.R. Harris began life in an apothecary shop at No. 11 St James’s Street in London, but has since expanded not only in size, but in reach, with discriminating men worldwide opting for its timeless products. From embossed shaving brushes made with badger hair (softer and more absorbent apparently) to scented shaving soaps in hand-turned wooden bowls, D.R. Harris understand that sometimes the classics needn’t be tampered with. Available from MrPorter.com

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Mojeh Men on watches

Engineered for extremes, our selection of timepieces will keep you on schedule whether you’re scaling the highest heights or plunging into the deepest oceans.

IWC, Aquatimer Chronograph Edition ‘Expedition Charles Darwin’ Created in homage to explorer and philosopher Charles Darwin, IWC unveils the Aquatimer ‘Expedition Charles Darwin.’ In bronze, the self-winding, water-resistant timepiece boasts an impressive power reserve of 68 hours.

Rolex, Oyster Perpetual Explorer II Celebrating its 40th year, the reissued Explorer II from Rolex arrives expeditionready in a robust 42 mm case complete with paraflex shock absorbers and safety catch oysterlock clasp.

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Mojeh Men on watches

Victorinox, Swiss Army Inox With the ability to withstand a 10-meter drop, a violent sandstorm and temperatures ranging from -60 to 160 degrees Fahrenheit, Victorinox’s 130th anniversary creation, the Inox, is their most rugged watch to date.

Hublot, King Power Oceanographic 4000 The Oceanographic 4000 from Hublot’s King Power collection comprises a sleek titanium exterior with sapphire glass. Perfect for divers, the selfwinding system can reach underwater depths of 4000 metres.

Panerai, Radiomir 1940 Chronograph Platino Referencing the original dimensions of Panerai’s Radiomir 1940 arrives the limited edition Chronograph Platino in polished platinum. Integrating a handwound chronograph with an ivory dial, the Platino combines function with sophistication.

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Mojeh Men on watches

Adventure

T i m e Watches and adventure have a long and action-packed association. We explore the some of the pioneers who wouldn’t have been able to achieve what they did without time on their hands. By Sophie Louise Rust

oolish would be the adventurer who embarks upon his journey without a watch. Whilst modern day adventurers may be tempted to rely on electronic devices to relay their timekeeping, it’s the true explorer who appreciates and values the seemingly old school simplicity of the wristwatch. Though this traditional accessory may seem quaint when compared to the high tech offerings on the market, the design and innovation behind both the timekeepers of today and those of generations past has aided many an adventure. From James Bond’s Rolex to Apollo 11’s Omega Speedmaster, explorers and heroes alike choose to adorn their wrists with this classic accessory. Modern day explorers are likely to choose a chronograph as their time keeping companion – functions such as calendars and tools to measure speed and distance making them the swiss army knife of timekeeping. Whilst the wrist watch as a concept has been around since the 16th century, it was mostly adorned by the ladies with men preferring a classic pocket timepiece. It was only during WW1 that the watch became a necessary and useful accessory for men. Unable to spare the uniform space for a cumbersome pocket watch and without the time to flip open the case, those in the military embraced a version of the wristwatch we know today. As well as the obvious practical advantages, it also allowed military maneuvers to be made more precisely and with the removable trench guard ensuring protection of the watch’s face, synchronising movements and transport was never easier. It was war itself of course, that inspired Cartier’s Tank watch, modeled after the cockpit of tanks Louis Cartier spied during his time on the battlefield. Cartier was no stranger to creating watches

for extreme conditions, having designed a piece for friend, Alberto Santos-Dumont to wear in 1904 whilst flying to enable him to check the time without losing control of the plane. With most military men sporting a wristwatch after the war, the trend caught on and became a normal accessory for gentlemen. From the trenches of WW1 to the peak of the world’s highest mountain, 1953 was the landmark year that Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay made the first ascent to the top of Mount Everest. With the trip sponsored by Rolex, Norgay sported an Oyster Perpetual for the entire historic journey. Waterproof, self-winding and unaffected by the extreme temperatures and pressure changes, the Oyster Perpetual was a pioneer in timekeeping technology for adventurers. There is something of a mystery surrounding Hillary’s choice of wrist wear, with both Rolex and British watchmaker Smiths claiming the intrepid explorer wore one of their designs. Nonetheless, Edmund’s son Peter Hillary, chose the Rolex Explorer II for his trip to Everest’s peak for the 50th anniversary climb, as the brand once again sponsored the journey. Just a few years before Edmund’s trip, Norwegian explorer Thor Heyerdahl, along with his five-member crew travelled 5,000 miles across the Pacific ocean on a hand made raft. The 1947 ‘Kon-Tiki’ voyage as it was dubbed, was to prove that ancient civilisations could have travelled far and wide to connect with other cultures. The 101-day expedition from Peru to French Polynesia was conducted using only Eterna wristwatches for each crewmember and a radio as navigation tools. Despite the obvious hazards of the endeavour, the watches survived the trip - salt water and varying temperatures proving no

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OMEGA Speedmaster Professional, Apollo 11, 45th Anniversary Limited Edition

Mojeh Men on watches

match for Swiss manufacturing. Whilst Heyerdahl and his crew were focused on traversing across the ocean, Jacques Piccard and Don Walsh were more interested in diving down into it. Adventuring 10,916m in the bathyscaphe Trieste to reach Mariana Trench, the deepest part of Earth’s ocean floor, this US Navy dive was accompanied by Rolex’s Deep Sea Special. Becoming the first vessel to reach this inhospitable environment, the 1960 expedition’s record has yet to be broken. Rigorous testing was undertaken by Rolex to create a watch able to withstand the intense pressure the depths promised. Remaining unharmed during the trip, it was unsurprising that James Cameron wore an updated version, the Deep Sea Challenger, during his own journey into Mariana Trench in 2012. Adverse conditions on Earth aren’t the only challenges the wristwatch has faced; during the landmark expedition to the moon in 1969, Omega’s Speedmaster became (and continues to be) the only watch to ever have been worn on the moon, with Astronaut Buzz Aldrin having strapped his to the outside of his spacesuit. Originally designed as a sports watch, the Speedmaster beat bids by Rolex and Longines to become the prestigious chosen design. Subjected to extreme testing by NASA’s engineers, the Speedmaster stood up to the scrutiny, surviving gruelling tests including violent shocks and vibrations, extreme temperature variations and zero gravity conditions. Having succeeded on the journey to the moon, the Speedmaster continued to be used by NASA and is still part of the standard equipment offered to American astronauts. During the infamous Apollo 13 expedition, it was the Speedmaster that timed a vital 14-second maneuver, ensuring the safe return of the crew to Earth. It has also been the

official watch of all Russian cosmonaut expeditions since 1970. It’s not just those entering space that rely on a wristwatch, but those leaving it too! On the 14th October 2012, the eyes of the world were focused on Austrian freejumper Felix Baumgartner who became the first human to break the speed of sound in a freefall. Jumping through the stratosphere from a height of 39,045 metres, Baumgartner chose a Zenith Stratos Flyback Striking 10th watch. As it’s complicated name may suggest, this high tech design offers superior timekeeping, with one of its hands making a complete rotation in only ten seconds, allowing times to be recorded to 1/10th of a second. Beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour, the Stratos is one of the most accurate timekeepers available on the market, making it an unsurprising choice for Baumgartner’s epic feat. A far slower but no less impressive feat, it was a limited edition Bremont Supermarine Terra Nova that accompanied explorers Ben Saunders and Tarka L’Herpiniere on their journey from Antarctica to the South Pole. Following in the footsteps of Captain Scott’s illfated trip in 1910, the Brit and his French teammate trekked 1800 miles to complete the mammoth journey. The lightweight Titanium Bremont not only measures longitude, but is able to point to the south pole using the sun and a GMT function. From the deepest depths of the ocean to the sandy surface of the moon, the unforgiving arctic to the very top of the world, explorers rely on intricate technology to ensure the meticulous timekeeping needed on epic journeys and wild adventures. Many of these watches are still available for purchase, a respectful nod to the brave men who decide to take that first step into a world unknown.

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mojeh men interview

The Gulf

of Success

We caught up with Erwin Bamps, CEO of Gulf Craft Inc. – one of the top ten superyacht shipyards in the world - to discuss global developments, brand expectations and the advantages of being based in the Middle East. When you joined Gulf Craft in 2002 as Executive Manager, what were your initial expectations for the company? The ambitions were high and the path was long. I was tasked with developing the company to become a significant player in the global market and as a homegrown exclusive yacht and boat-building brand of the Middle East, it all started with the product. Therefore the initial years of my Gulf Craft career were mainly focused on enhancing the in-house skill set and creating products with increasingly high levels of workmanship, detailing and engineering content. You’ve worked across the globe, from your native Belgium to Japan, the Philippines and now in the UAE. How have you implemented these multinational experiences into developing the Gulf Craft team? The invaluable experience of working in Europe, the Far East and the Middle East, taught me that every manufacturing location requires a complete re-thinking of general manufacturing truths and techniques. Every time I arrived at a different work location, I learned to accept that I had to start all over. I had to apply my toolbox of basic quality control and manufacturing process techniques and localize them to suit the labour force, work culture and markets. When developing new vessels for the Gulf Craft fleet, what differences are there in designing for separate global markets? One of our key differentiators is that we build vessels using a semi-customisation model that focuses on listening to what our clients want and the needs they wish to fulfill. We build the product around them, not just for them. We see a few differences in the features that are popular among different global markets. In the Gulf and Asia, we see demands for more spacious crew quarters and a focus on more private interior configurations that allow less of an overlap between guest and staff traffic; separate doors to the galley

and The Wave Muscat with an increased support system through the construction of marinas that offer berthing and service facilities for a range of boats and yachts. The ongoing construction of the Dubai Canal project will only further the demand for waterfront living and entertaining in the UAE. So it is an interesting time for us in the Gulf, as we anticipate greater demand for boats and yachts as more people start taking to the water for pleasure. The UAE’s excellent connectivity allows buyers of Gulf Craft yachts to regularly consult on projects in development and visit the yard as often as they wish during the construction process, which is a practice we actively encourage.

from the crew quarters for instance, dumb waiters and fly-bridge designs that are fully equipped with grills, bars, fridges etc. that can be completely privatised. How important is the Middle Eastern market and the location itself to the Gulf Craft brand? The Middle East continues to have one of the most active boating and yachting markets. Almost 30% of the world’s top superyachts are currently owned by Arabs, so the Middle East superyacht market is important not only to local players like Gulf Craft but to the global superyacht industry as a whole. Obviously, the Middle East is our home turf and you can say that we enjoy a homeground advantage. This is a demanding market, clients understand and appreciate luxury and the high market standards push us to develop more innovative products. The past few years have seen some major waterfront developments across the Gulf such as the Palm Dubai, The Pearl Qatar - 146 -

What challenges do Gulf Craft face as they push to develop more ground breaking designs for the yachting market? We have focused in recent years on yacht designs in which form follows function, as the usage of yachts moves less from being a showy toy and more towards being a venue for business and private entertainment. In designing our yachts, we are focusing on innovative designs that also deliver functionally, for instance longer-range ocean going yachts that have more powerful engines and larger onboard storage capacity that allow clients to take longer journeys. As the company continues to grow globally, what other emerging markets do you wish Gulf Craft to pursue for the future? With a relatively mature yachting lifestyle, markets such as the Mediterranean and the Gulf continue to be the most important market for Gulf Craft’s products. The most promising growth potential for Gulf Craft, however, lies in South-East Asia and the Far East. Gulf Craft already enjoys a solid presence in this region, developed over the past 20 years, but the demand for luxury goods has only really gained momentum in the last decade and this makes this region a very interesting growth market in yacht sales.

A Week in the Lifeâ&#x20AC;Ś

Louis Fourteen

A luxury lifestyle management company headquartered in Dubai, Louis Fourteen are the ultimate experts in tailor-made experiences. From providing services to manage hectic business schedules to organising important events or planning a last minute getaway, Louis Fourteen make the impossible possible. We follow a week in the life of a Louis Fourteen member.

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Mojeh men highlights

JANUARY

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MAY 04 11 18 25

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SEPTEMBER S M T W T F 07 14 21 28

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JUNE 02 09 16 23 30

05 12 19 26

APRIL

S 01 08 15 22

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MARCH

FEBRUARY

S M T W T F

02 09 16 23 30

03 10 17 24

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JULY 06 13 20 27

06 13 20 27

OCTOBER 06 13 20 27

04 11 18 25

03 10 17 24 31

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01 08 15 22 29

02 09 16 23 30

03 10 17 24 31

07 14 21 28

01 08 15 22 29

02 09 16 23 30

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NOVEMBER

04 11 18 25

05 12 19 26

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DECEMBER

S M T W T F

04 11 18 25

30 02 09 16 23

01 08 15 22 29

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06 13 20 27

AUGUST

03 10 17 24

S 05 12 19 26

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02 09 16 23 30

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05 12 19 26

S 06 13 20 27

Friday 2

• Finalise plans for next week’s business trip to Tokyo. Get LF to book a first class seat on Emirates. • Must have my LF stylist to come to the office on Tuesday to create a capsule business wardrobe for the trip. I’ll be in Tokyo for two nights liaising with clients. • Request LF to book a suite at the Mandarin Oriental – I’ll need reservations for two at Noma, I’ve heard it’s impossible to get in but I’m sure LF will be able to manage it.

1. Noma at Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo | 2. Mandarin Suite living room

Saturday

• Call LF – ask for a personal trainer to come over at lunchtime, must work on that six-pack for the New Year. • Reserve a table for two at CUT by Wolfgang Puck at The Address Downtown for my wife and I. Will need a chauffeur for the evening – a Rolls-Royce would be great. • Enquire with LF about any new late night venues that have recently opened. See if they can get us a table, we’ll have friends joining us.

3. Connection Chauffeur

Sunday

• Have a free hour between meetings at the office, follow up with my LF stylist on the fitting for my made-to-measure Brioni suit. Also request updates regarding Brioni’s upcoming calendar of events. • Planning a get-together with friends this evening. Double check with LF to see what time the private chef is arriving. Will need the table arrangements and flowers to be delivered to the house before I arrive home from work – make sure to mention white roses, my wife’s favourite.

4. Brioni

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Mojeh men highlights

monday 5

• St. Barths would be good for New Year with the family. Must arrange the details with LF. See if we can stay on the mainland, I know houses are in short supply but I’m sure LF can pull some strings. • Ask LF to arrange a private jet to the mainland - make sure the yacht is on its way while we’re travelling. Ask LF to request mooring permissions, we’ll need a good view of the fireworks on the night. • Book Gstaad for January after New Year’s. Perfect time to squeeze in some heli-skiing. Get LF to arrange the Sikorsky S-7BC+ Swiftcopter to whisk us to the resort. 5. Sikorsky S-7BC+ Swiftcopter

Tuesday

• Looking into the 99 Diamond Rally: Vancouver to Whistler luxury supercar event. Enquire to LF about requesting tickets for corporate participation. Would be great to bring clients along. • Arrange to have the Lamborghini shipped over for the event. I’ll need LF to set up car servicing before the trip. • Remember appointment with my LF stylist for the capsule business wardrobe. Would also be great to get stylist to select a new dress and pull a few options for a piece of jewellery for my wife – Bulgari perhaps? It’ll be a perfect gift to celebrate our anniversary.

Wednesday

• Arrange with the office to take tomorrow off for anniversary plans. • Ask LF to book me into the Majestic suite at the St. Regis on Saadiyat Island, Abu Dhabi for Thursday. It’s a great location for a round of golf and much needed downtime with the wife. • Have the dress delivered to the St. Regis. I’ll need the jewellery in hand before I leave. • Let’s skip the traffic – ask LF to book a helicopter to takes us from Dubai to Abu Dhabi. • Remember to get LF itinerary for next week’s Tokyo trip.

Thursday

• Heading off on anniversary trip. Email my LF PA – ask to not be disturbed by work. • Arrange for LF to touch base with the office and send email updates should anything important occur. • Follow up on the spa booking for my wife, see if LF can pick up my clubs back at the house and have them sent to the suite. • Confirm helicopter flight back, we’ll need a driver waiting to take us to the house.

6. The St. Regis Abu Dhabi

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louisfourteen.com - 150 -

mojeh men on cars

The Ferrari FF:

A Good Sport

By Gautam Sharma

hen you think Ferrari, chances are you’re visualising a sleek coupe or convertible with seating for two and just enough luggage space to stash a soft overnight bag or two. However, the storied Italian brand set out to broaden its target market and attract a whole new set of buyers with the FF (short for ‘Ferrari Four’ – referring to its four-seat, four-wheel-drive layout) that launched internationally in 2011. The FF was by no means the first four-seat Ferrari, preceded by the likes of the 612 Scaglietti and 456, but it was arguably the first one that offered genuinely comfortable accommodation for a quartet of occupants and its four-wheel-drive layout made it the perfect all-weather car – be it on snowy alpine roads or sand-covered highways in the Middle East. As with any flagship Ferrari, the FF is propelled by a free-revving V12 engine, in this case a 6.3-litre unit that unleashes 660hp to enable it to sprint from standstill to 100km/h in just 3.7 seconds. If you keep the loafer planted, the acceleration doesn’t relent until you hit 335km/h. Although it is eye-wateringly rapid, the FF wasn’t conceived as an uncompromising coupe that’s capable of shattering lap records…as well as your spine every time you go over a speed bump. Instead, the Ferrari design team set out to conceive and build the ultimate grand tourer. A car that could effortlessly cross continents at high speed and allow you and your passengers to arrive at your destination feeling fresh and relaxed. What’s more, the FF’s capacious 450-litre boot can be extended to a cavernous 800 litres as the rear seats fold down independently. This means that the FF offers more luggage space not only than any other car in its category, but also many four-door saloons too. The FF isn’t a complete gas guzzler either as its claimed overall fuel consumption figure of 15.4 litres per 100km is pretty reasonable considering the car’s huge performance potential. This is partly down to its high-tech direct-injection V12 engine, which incorporates Stop and

Start technology that automatically switches the motor off when you’re stationary. It then automatically fires up again as soon as you take your foot off the brake. You may think a four-wheel-drive system sounds incongruous for a Ferrari, but in this case it’s designed not to conquer gnarly off-road terrain, but rather to optimise traction and safety in slippery conditions. As such, the FF intelligently distributes torque to each of the four wheels based on which offer the best grip at that given moment. Penned by legendary Italian styling house Pininfarina, the FF doesn’t conform to the traditional Ferrari mould as its wagon-like rear end is melded to an aggressive snout that houses the big V12 engine. Chances are you won’t warm to the FF at first glance, but the longer you look at it, the more it grows on you. What you may not initially realise is just how large this Ferrari is. Stretching a whisker under 5 metres in length and 2 metres in width, it’s wider than a Mercedes S-Class and just 200mm shorter than the big German limo. The FF’s large dimensions translate to ample interior space and there’s quality as well as quantity to be found throughout the cabin. You have the option of choosing from six exclusive colours and the finest Frau aniline leathers specially treated to enhance their natural softness. It doesn’t end here, as Ferrari’s in-house customising divisions can tailor your FF’s cabin to your exact tastes. As you’d expect, the list of features and mod-cons is almost endless and the features on offer include a rear-seat infotainment system with two screens and a 1280 Watt, 16-channel stereo system with Quantumlogic Surround Sound. So there you have it, the Ferrari FF is arguably the ultimate allpurpose, all-weather supercar. Easily capable of being driven every day, it proves you can not only have your cake, you can devour it too.

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mojeh men on cars

Four Wheels Good,

Two Wheels Bad By Gautam Sharma

ake a good look at the vehicles around you next time you’re stuck in traffic and chances are you’ll notice a fair percentage of them are top-line luxury SUVs. It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to glean that the roads in Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Bahrain, Doha and other large cities in the Middle East are infested with a veritable horde of BMW X5s, Range Rovers, Mercedes MLs, Porsche Cayennes, Audi Q7s and Lexus LXs. But what is the magical allure of these opulent behemoths and why are we buying them in such huge quantities? Part of the reason obviously lies in the fact that fuel is still relatively cheap in our region, which means driving large, heavy SUVs doesn’t leave quite the same dent in your wallet as it would if you lived in, say, Denmark. Another key factor is that we enjoy the privilege of driving on wide, open roads – rather than the small, congested lanes you’d find in many European cities – so the huge footprint of SUVs doesn’t present a problem either. We’re also surrounded by sand dunes, which are an ideal playground for those owners who are actually inclined to take their SUVs off the beaten track. That said, it’s a well-documented fact that around 90 per cent of all-terrainers don’t ever venture beyond the tarmac. Arguably the first manufacturer to offer a luxury SUV was Land Rover, as its original Range Rover debuted way back in 1970. The ‘Rangie’, as it became affectionately known, offered a plush (for its era) interior and a refined ride, yet it was just as off-road capable as its utilitarian Land Rover Defender sibling. The other prestige manufacturers were slow to get on the bandwagon, but rapidly changing buyer tastes in the 1990s prompted many of these carmakers to develop their own takes on the luxo SUV genre. Mercedes launched its original ML in 1998 and BMW followed a couple of years later with its first-generation X5. The floodgates had now opened and it wasn’t long before Porsche unleashed its Cayenne, which was a huge departure for a marque that had until that time specialised solely in highly focused sportscars. The Porsche purists were naturally up in arms, but diversifying its range turned out to be a very astute strategic move by the company, as the Cayenne currently accounts for about 50 per cent of

Porsche’s global sales volume. Such has been the success of the large all-terrainer that the Zuffenhausen-based company has now added a smaller brother – known as the Macan – to its line-up. While all this has been going on, many of the other premium manufacturers have been sitting on the sidelines, ruing the sales they have been missing out on by not having a contender in this lucrative segment. So we’re now set for another barrage of new SUV entrants, starting with the Maserati Levante that’s due on sale over the next 12 months or so. Although it uses much of the same mechanical hardware as the Jeep Grand Cherokee, Maserati has promised the newcomer will offer the style and sporty driving dynamics that are synonymous with the hallowed Italian brand. Broadening its target audience, the Levante is expected to be offered in rear-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive formats, so those who never plan on going off-road can opt for the former and benefit from some healthy cost and weight savings. Maserati isn’t the only legendary Latin marque who is eyeing a slice of the premium SUV segment, as Lamborghini also has its own contender waiting in the wings, a sleek, sporty crossover dubbed ‘Urus’. Believe it or not, this isn’t the first time Lambo has developed an all-terrainer, as back in 1986 the Bolognese firm launched a hardcore Hummer-esque vehicle known as the LM002. However, this was a barebones and truck-like contraption that had nothing in common with the upcoming Urus, which will embody the heavily sporting DNA of the company’s high-performance supercars. From what we know so far, the Urus won’t be an off-roader in the true sense, as it’s being designed primarily as a super-SUV that will offer the pace and handling capabilities you’d expect of a sports car, albeit with the elevated driving position and interior space that is only afforded in an SUV. Bentley is a brand that’s given us luxurious limos and coupes, but the exalted British marque is also eyeing wider horizons with an upcoming SUV that it boasts will be the most opulent and potent to date. Codenamed ‘Falcon’, the big wagon will feature the same high-quality leather and wood trim you’d find in other Bentleys, but the big difference will be that the

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mojeh men on cars

cabin will sit much higher than that of a Continental GT or Mulsanne. This means it towers over most other vehicles in traffic, imparting a feeling of imperviousness and providing its occupants with a greater sense of panorama than would be the case in a conventional saloon or coupe. Arch-rival Rolls-Royce isn’t exactly sitting on its thumbs either, as the ultra-premium carmaker is evaluating the potential for its own SUV, but don’t expect anything to materialise before 2017. A Rolls SUV would still retain the key characteristics of vehicles such as the Ghost and Phantom but, once again, with the elevated stance and interior space benefits that come with a high-riding wagon format. You may think it’s somewhat ironic that a segment originally conceived for vehicles with genuine off-road ability has evolved into a genre populated by wagons that spend the

vast majority of their working lives purely on tarmac. The primary reason for this is that buying a luxury SUV is a lifestyle choice. You don’t necessarily buy a luxo-SUV because you have aspirations of scaling Big Red or reaching the summit of the Atlas Mountains. It’s a purchase made partly for practical reasons – generous luggage capacity and a panoramic seating position being two of the obvious pluses – and partly because of their emotional appeal. Even if you don’t have any plans in place to venture beyond the beaten track, it’s nice to know your luxury SUV provides you with the ability (in most cases) to do so, should the need and desire arise. It’s a bit like buying a watch that can be submerged 100m below the surface of the sea. Very few of us are likely to ever find ourselves in such depths, but it’s still reassuring to know your timepiece is capable of doing so.

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The Big

Freeze on Big

Data

Why low temperatures are proving high value for Scandinavian nations as tech companies seek new solutions for data storage.

ÂŠ Percy Feinstein/Corbis

olonised by some of the biggest companies in the world, the Scandi Isles have experienced a wave of technological interest heading to their shores. In the wake of a burgeoning online presence, networking giants have looked to cost effective solutions to cool down their increasingly warm servers. Whilst energy consumption is a substantial factor in siting a data centre, other aspects have to be taken into account in order for the transition to be a success. Companies have to consider data sites that are situated within specific international internet bandwidth proximities, as well as regulating tax and ensuring political stability. Based on these criteria countries like the US and UK provide the lowest risk rate. Yet it has been Scandinavia gaining momentum, driven by an attractive green energy mindset that promises a reduced carbon footprint. As computing transitions to the cloud, with users invested in storing personal data on remote computers, companies have been doing everything in their power to ensure the efficiency of their data centres. Naturally low temperatures minimise the demand for artificial cooling processes. It is something Scandinavians have utilised, using hydroelectricity as a predominant power source to run their cities. The direct outcome of this has proved effective in establishing a renewable energy outlet. Mega-companies like Facebook have been quick to latch on to this approach. The June of 2013 saw the opening of their Lulea data centre, built 100km south of the Arctic Circle in Sweden. With a population of just under 50k, Lulea maintains a freezing below zero temperatures account for five months of the year. The site was built in the hope of drawing investments to a city known for its steel and mining industries, shaping it into a digital hub. - 154 -

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Marketed as the greenest site in the world for its use of 100 percent renewable energy, Norway’s Green Mountain Data Centre provides customers with secured electricity pricing and long-term power rates due to the reliability of hydroelectric power. Elsewhere Google, who built their already established data centre two years ago in Hamina, Finland, increased their investments by a further $198.8 million to ensure a larger server capacity for their users. The facility boasts a fairly novel approach to reduced energy costs, using seawater cooling to dispel heat from servers. After communications brand Ericsson jumped ship to the north, the company invested approximately $1.05 billion to construct three global ICT centres, two of which were proposed in their native Sweden, located in Stockholm and Linköping. The third situated in Montreal, Canada. Microsoft meanwhile proposed a new $250 million data centre in Finland, following the company’s purchase of phone brand Nokia. Whilst rival companies flock farther afield in search of even more cost effective outlets, so to have the countries of Scandinavia. Although Microsoft may have set up base in Iceland, the island has yet to attract other major clients due to its remote location. Rather than utilising Iceland for live internet traffic, businesses have suggested using the country as a backup data hub, less reliant on bandwidth proximity. The biggest focus in the creation of a data centre isn’t the amount of money needed in order for it to be constructed, but the reliability of it working smoothly year-long with limited surveillance. Lulea for instance will employ as many as 300 builders for the centre, yet only around 50 people on a permanent basis to roam its three building, 301,389 square feet site. It’s a topic that has many locals questioning the need for data centres, the majority of which are proud of their industrial heritage and afraid of losing traditions. In response to the outcry, companies like Facebook have proposed that data centres, other than being essential to cool down dense clusters of network servers, will in fact be used for more educational purposes. The aim is to collaborate with trained technology professors to teach students about efficient computing and smart grids, giving locals the opportunity to experience the inner workings of a data centre. Worldwide spending on data centres is expected to hit $126 billion come 2015, with the majority of the investments provided by companies looking to expand the growth of the cloud. With 250 facilities already built in Europe, Scandinavia - with its extensive landmass - will ensure at least 50 more sites will be added. It isn’t just geography that has attracted companies however, tax breaks allowed Sweden to invest approximately $15 million to house Facebook. Verne Global, the environmental data company, acquired $700 million to build a 44-acre site in Keflavik, southwest Iceland. Using electricity from Keflavik’s national power grid, Landsvirkjun, as well as wind strategically used to cool data systems, Verne Global finds itself perfectly located between the world’s largest data centre markets: Europe and North America. Striking a balance between innovation and conservation is something companies will have to consider when crossing the icy terrains of Scandinavia. To influence a new digital era, the short-term success of renewable data centre’s is of the utmost importance, not just for the region, but worldwide. - 155 -

mojeh men interview

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mojeh men interview

Ivanka Trump:

The Trump Card We speak to Ivanka Trump about clinching the deal, professional priorities and bringing the ‘signature Trump touch’ to Dubai.

‘

do tend to find that when people meet with family may have more assets than some nations, me they will be less prepared than they would but Ivanka hasn’t been sucked into a world of be if they were meeting with my father,’ Ivanka reckless, entitled privilege. ‘I want to make my Trump tells us. ‘I try to leverage it as much as husband, children, parents and siblings proud possible.’ That’s the thing with Ivanka, it’s of the work I do. I want to set a great example sometimes easy to get lost in the persona laid for my kids and hopefully inspire them in their out in glossies the world over. A mother, a wife and future endeavours,’ she tells us. Her professional an undeniable beauty, her family life and style dedication she credits, unsurprisingly, to her choices are often what generate column inches. father. ‘My father always says, ‘Be passionate. Of course she’s also a shrewd, sharp and highly If you are passionate about what you do you experienced businesswoman. We wonder if it will ultimately succeed.’ I try to live and work ever gets tiresome being asked for the umpteenth by that credo every day. For me, success is time how she ‘juggles about achieving my goals, living a career with being my life according a parent’, when to my personal she’s likely just and professional closed yet another priorities and being multimillion-dollar deal. It’s not something fulfilled by each.’ “Be passionate. If you many successful Striking out on her own, are passionate about businessmen are Ivanka’s eponymous enterprise capitalises asked. When we bring it what you do you will up she’s diplomatic and on her love of style. It ultimately succeed.” jovial. That’s the other seems a natural fit for thing with Ivanka – her her to enter the world unflinching decorum. of accessories, but she’s not interested ‘What I would say is in putting her name that I try not to put to a vanity project. too much emphasis on balance because Behind the glamorous realistically it’s very difficult to achieve,’ she says, campaigns and high-end boutiques lies a viable slightly dodging the question. ‘Instead I try to business. ‘I saw an opportunity to create a brand spend my time so that my schedule is aligned with that appealed to a modern woman.’ she tells us, my personal and professional priorities and I can talking through the concept. ‘Her life can’t be be present whether I’m at home or at the office.’ compartmentalised into time of day or the various It’s difficult to find a crack in Ivanka’s veneer. She roles she plays: mother, wife, entrepreneur. She really is as polished and poised as one would is all of these things at once and her clothes and expect. It’s admirable. Try as you might, you won’t accessories should reflect that. We are able to find paparazzi pictures of her engaged in anything deliver product with exceptional quality at an less than wholesome. Despite being born in excellent price value.’ the same year, she’s a world apart from Paris PR brief aside (and Ivanka is an excellent sales Hilton, another heiress and society figure. Her woman), she clearly has a handle on the nuts - 157 -

mojeh men interview

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mojeh men interview

and bolts of her company. She understands the and operations - my father, brothers and I are at power of having a competent and qualified the helm of every decision.’ But of course Ivanka team and has a clear growth strategy. ‘I’ve hired wouldn’t be known for her ability to multitask if an amazing team with experience at some of the she didn’t have a veritable laundry list of other world’s most prestigious fashion brands. We’re projects on her agenda. ‘I’m also spearheading currently focused on growing the Ivanka Trump the redevelopment of the iconic Old Post Office wholesale footprint domestically, independent building on Pennsylvania Avenue, just steps freestanding stores and e-commerce,’ she says, from the White House. We are breaking ground switching seamlessly into corporate mode. next month and will complete the $200 million ‘E-commerce is crucial to brand expansion dollar transformation by 2016. We just purchased and will allow for continued growth. The brand two additions to our golf portfolio; Doonbeg already has an international presence with a resort in Ireland and Turnberry Resort, now fine jewellery boutique located in Beijing called Trump Turnberry.’ It’s a portfolio she’s and we will continue to explore additional understandably proud of, even if her tone is opportunities abroad.’ modest when discussing her achievements. ‘The Fashion aside, Ivanka remains an integral part Trump Hotel Collection is currently the fastest of the Trump Organisation. As Executive Vice growing luxury hotel brand in the world. We are President of Development and Acquisitions, focused on our goal of thirty hotels by 2020.’ she’s found a niche that allows her to put her The expansion of Trump’s property interests negotiating prowess and interest in property is also evidenced here in the GCC. Driving to use. ‘I love real estate because it’s a tangible through Dubai, one can’t fail to notice Ivanka’s asset, experienced by our residents and guests for face on billboards, looming over the motorway many years to come. or smiling down from That brings an added the sides of buildings. level of excitement ‘Gateway cities and to the acquisition resort destinations in process,’ she explains. Asia and the Middle And Ivanka really is a East are a driving force “Having a robust formidable negotiator. for the Trump Hotel ‘Preparedness is Collection’s aggressive knowledge of the crucial,’ she tells us, expansion plan,’ she marketplace, the asset offering an insight into explains, when we ask her knack for closing a about her involvement and everyone involved deal. ‘An understanding in the region. ‘We will serve you well in any of the key players, their view Dubai as a global motivation, and what’s economic hub that is deal negotiation.” at stake is important. home to world-class businesses. We saw a Also having a concise, strategic plan of great opportunity and action and working DAMAC Properties is to execute that in the perfect partner to spite of obstacles that help us execute our may arise. Having a robust knowledge of the shared vision for an ultra-luxury residential marketplace, the asset and everyone involved community and championship golf course, will serve you well in any deal negotiation.’ designed by none other than Gil Hanse.’ Putting that advice to use, she spearheaded the On top of her business acumen, Ivanka also deal that saw the Trump Organisation acquire brings a sense of design and aesthetics to the Doral Resort and four of its five courses for her work. It’s helping to shift the traditional $150 million. A steal. As a project, its scope is perception of all things Trump and is ultimately mammoth, but she’s happy to get her teeth paying dividends in how that perception sunk in. ‘Doral is an incredible property that pertains to the end user. Overall, she’s proven could not be replicated today. 800 acres in that her credentials more than match up to her the heart of Miami, complete with 700 hotel surname and, be it boardroom or boutique, rooms, two pools, a spa, five championship golf she can turn her hand to just about anything. courses including the iconic Blue Monster and ‘I definitely feel as though I am the feminine unparalleled meeting and event spaces,’ she voice of a traditionally masculine brand and explains. ‘We are nearing completion on our we’ve benefited from infusing a female’s point $250 million dollar redevelopment and when of view into our articulation of luxury,’ she says. finished Trump National Doral will truly be one ‘Our consumers have responded really positively of the most amazing golf resorts in the country. and we are thrilled to be bringing our signature In our business - from construction, to design Trump touch to Dubai.’ - 159 -

mojeh men on culture

the Deadliest Art

Beloved by the masses, famous daredevil faces have invested their lives in promoting danger for entertainment. But are lives at risk worth viewers tuning in?

he practice of thrill seeking for entertainment has been a popular avenue for people to enjoy. Driven by extremes, experts in the fields of magic, sport, nature and art have willingly tread the peripheries of danger in order to rake in the approval of the masses. Casting a dark shadow on the brilliance of their daredevil ways is the increasing number of extremists who perish doing what they love. Like in most tragic cases, they have found an even stronger legion of fans and mountains more respect for their work posthumously. Perhaps it’s something that comes with the territory of a job driven by risk. A victim of his own nature, the passing of Steve Irwin was one of the biggest names to send shockwaves around the world. Known for his theatrical Aussie voice and khaki gamekeeper outfit, Irwin found fame in 1996 with his documentary series, The Crocodile Hunter. It was a series that lasted for seven years, with related shows The Crocodile Hunter Diaries and The Crocodile Hunter: Collision Course making their way onto international broadcasting schedules. Irwin was loved the world over, not only because he was passionate about his job, but also because he wasn’t afraid of approaching danger head on. He met his fate on September 4th, 2006 snorkeling at Batt Reef near Port Douglas, Queensland. Whilst filming his latest documentary, Ocean’s Deadliest, Irwin suffered a deadly Stingray strike that pierced his heart, causing his untimely death at age 44. Taking into consideration the dangers that can end their life hasn’t deterred other thrill seekers from showcasing their talents. The 2008 documentary Man on Wire, directed by James Marsh, chronicled French high-wire artist Philippe Petit during his walk between New York’s Twin Towers and the World Trade Centre. Petit’s career made inroads during 1971 when he performed for artist Pablo Picasso on his 90th birthday. One of his most spectacular walks was a high wire attempt of Paris’s Palais de Chaillot cable link, with an incline of 2,300ft, for an audience of 250,000 people. Whilst there’s no escape being elevated at skyscraper height, modern day entertainers have looked to the mystery of illusion in order to receive their daredevil kicks. David Blaine isn’t just considered a magician, but also an endurance artist. It’s this extreme mindset that has driven him to perform stunts for bewildered audiences worldwide. The 21st Century Harry Houdini, Blaine puts himself through the most challenging tricks seen on television. On April 5th, 1999, Blaine was entombed for seven days in an underground plastic box below a three tonne

water tank. An estimated 75,000 people visited the site during Blaine’s stunt, with news stations flocking to cover the story. Much of what he does is in direct response to his obsession with being a part of the history books. Blaine eventually achieved his quest to break the Guinness World Record for his attempts in oxygen assisted static apnea, a practice which involved holding his breath after inhaling pure oxygen. It was a challenge previously set by Swiss born, Peter Colat, marked at 16 minutes 32 seconds. Blaine ultimately surpassed Colat’s efforts by half a minute during live broadcasting. The stunt didn’t come without its dangers however, with Blaine needing assistance to decrease his oxygen intake and slow down his rapid heart rate following the event. Along other life threatening paths are the docu-drama series that have infiltrated our televisions, formatted specifically for audiences to wince at any sight of danger or concern. Adam Richman’s work on the cult hit, Man v. Food, a show that caused him to suffer a period of severe mental depression and balloon to a ridiculous size, was taken off air after four seasons. The cancellation was in direct response to Richman’s newfound ‘thinspiration’ philosophy, citing concerns for his health that had ultimately let him down over the four year filming process. The influx of reality shows meanwhile, has also had an instrumental impact on the public’s perceptions of danger. Across seas, British network Channel 4 aired The Jump. Filmed in Innsbruck, Austria, The Jump made national headlines for its promotion as the most dangerous reality series on television. With a lineup of twelve celebrities, two of which withdrew prior to the show even airing. The Jump broadcast live faceoff ski jumping every week between two unsuspecting famous faces. Four withdrawals later, and with two injury scares, The Jump ended with resoundingly negative reviews. On the other hand, Discovery Channel’s 2005 series, Deadliest Catch, was an instant hit with its American audience. Filmed aboard vessels in the Bering Sea, camera crew followed fisherman through the most extreme weather in their hunt for glory. Season 3 drew in more than 49 million viewers, with audiences fascinated by the inherent high risk and deathdefying nature associated with the show. Seeing danger and experiencing danger are two parallels that coexist in a world obsessed by thrills. Whether it’s a brush with death or an excruciating test of endurance, people will always be interested in what daredevils have to offer, just as long as they get their kicks.

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ÂŠ Catherine MacBride/Corbis

mojeh men on culture

On Ice:

Jeff Orlowski Since its release in 2012, Chasing Ice has been setting the benchmark for natural-world documentary filmmaking. Charting photographer James Balog as he sets out on his Extreme Ice Survey the film brings to life the changing nature of our planet like never before. We speak to the film’s director Jeff Orlowski.

cameras! With temperatures below zero degrees Fahrenheit, it was difficult to press the frozen buttons while wearing two pairs of gloves. Eventually, after many attempts with bare hands that would risk frostbite, we got creative. We started using pens and sticks to press camera buttons while wearing our gloves. What were some of the highlights of working in such remote locations? It allowed us to capture moving landscapes that have never been seen before by humans. We named a canyon in Greenland, ‘Birthday Canyon’, as we were the first to discover the canyon and it so happened to be James’s birthday. Can you tell us about some of the challenges of shooting in such extreme conditions? One of the biggest challenges during the production for Chasing Ice was making sure that the cameras could withstand the harsh conditions. Traveling to these remote locations to install them and check their progress was not only expensive, but dangerous. There were falling rocks, extreme winds, snow, rain, and extreme temperatures. Another challenge of shooting in extreme conditions was actually operating the

You began shooting Chasing Ice whilst still at Stanford, can you tell us about how the project came about and the process of bringing it to life? At the time I started working on the film, I was studying Anthropology at Stanford and photography was my passion on the side. In my senior year, a mutual friend connected me to James Balog. I was interested in doing anything to work with him. After months of me pursuing, he asked if I would help document his project, The Extreme Ice Survey. The Extreme Ice Survey set out to capture - 162 -

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The natural landscape formed a breathtaking backdrop. Do you think weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re underexposed to the natural world in contemporary filmmaking? There are many documentaries out there that are able to bring our natural surroundings to light and expose audiences to these essential parts of our world. However, many living in more urban environments do not have the opportunity to experience the magic and beauty of our natural world. So I think much of our media could augment stories with more of a focus on highlighting the importance and also the sheer greatness of our natural world. the changing landscape of glaciers around the world with revolutionary time-lapse photography. After reviewing footage we collected from some of the glaciers we realised we had a duty to tell the story of our changing planet. From there, we worked on what story we would tell. It was the beginning of a long journey constructing a narrative that would best evoke the visuals we were experiencing out on the glaciers. - 163 -

You worked closely with James Balog. Can you tell us about the relationship you developed with each other over the course of the project? I always looked up to James as a mentor figure in my life. I wanted to learn from him. Over the course of documenting our trips - hiking, climbing, and traveling together - James and I became great friends. It was a privilege to be able to work alongside him and also have his trust to tell his story in a documentary.

mojeh men on culture

Are you still involved in his work at all? We are very supportive of him as an artist and our team at Exposure Labs has been working with James’s non-profit Earth Vision Trust on a web-series about climate change. Some of the episodes have recently aired online on the National Geographic website. You had submitted Chasing Ice to Sundance in 2009 with a focus on Balog’s work as a photographer, but ended up reworking the film to focus on the environmental angle. What makes for an engaging narrative and do you still feel you were able to tell the story you wanted?

After many revisions we were accepted to Sundance in 2012, and presented the award for ‘Excellence in Cinematography’. The difficult path leading up to our acceptance helped us to hone in on and improve the narrative arc of the film and really focus the message so that audiences were able to become immersed in the landscape and in James’s quest. The story of determination, adventure and innovation in the photography field allowed for us to tell the story of climate change, through the lens of one man on a mission to create a better future for his children. - 164 -

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Were you interested in environmental issues prior to Chasing Ice? I have always been deeply interested in environmental issues. Witnessing the dramatic changes of the ice first-hand really put the gravity of our current situation into perspective. When we captured the largest calving incident ever recorded on camera, it sparked an impatience to get the story out to our world as soon as possible. What are your thoughts on climate change currently and what are you doing at the moment to be active in environmentalism? We recently held a Chasing Ice Tour in Ohio where we provided one congressional district the tools that they need to support their Congressman in making a statement that he agrees with the science of climate change. After just two and a half months in Ohio, and the release of the IPCC report, Congressman Tiberi was the only Republican denier to revise his statement on climate change. We are continuing to use our film as a tool to educate and advocate, as well as to share James’ art and his passion with the world. As a documentary filmmaker what are your thoughts on the power of cinema to shed light on important issues? Film is one of the greatest mediums of our time. Chasing Ice allowed us to show the - 165 -

beauty and the horror of climate change in a way that was accessible to everyone. We were able to use the visual medium to focus on a story of a photographer who captured climate change in a way that had never been seen before. Our team were able to tell a tale of ice through the lens of a very human saga. Do you feel that documentary films in particular get the mainstream exposure they deserve? With the explosion of new distribution and exhibition methods, documentaries have been able to find their audiences better and audiences have been able to seek out the documentaries they want to see. Chasing Ice was released through both Netflix and iTunes and has been able to reach a very large audience in addition to our festival run and theatrical distribution. You’ve said previously that you were ‘in over your head’ when you began shooting Chasing Ice, but there’s no denying it must have been quite the adventure. How have you taken that spirit of adventure forward in your ongoing work and in life in general? Adventure has always been something I sought, even at a young age when I was a boy scout; however, Chasing Ice propelled me into becoming a filmmaker, which has been one of my greatest adventures yet.

mojeh men on culture

Culture

Review

From the page to the screen, this issue we go outdoors with titles that exemplify life on the edge and survival in extremes.

Brazilian documentary photographer Sebastião Salgado is one of the most distinguished and recognised names in his field. Having travelled to over 100 countries for his work, he is as much an explorer as a photographer. In Genesis, a project described as ‘a photographic homage to our planet in its natural state’, we are taken on a journey through some of the world’s most untouched landscapes and introduced to indigenous peoples that have escaped the proliferation of modernity. The culmination of an epic eight-year expedition, Genesis lays bare our planet at its most awe-inspiring. From the glaciers of Alaska to the Stone Age Korowai people of West Papua; from reindeer herds in the Arctic Circle to the volcanoes of Central Africa, we are offered an insight into a world that is both our own and yet unfamiliar. Available both in standard format and in collector’s editions, limited to just 100 copies each, Genesis, published by TASCHEN, is Salgado’s ‘love letter to the planet’. - 166 -

Photograph by Sebastião SALGADO / Amazonas images

Genesis, Sebastião Salgado

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South Pole Charting the ill-fated British Antarctic expedition of 1910 to 1913, South Pole brings one of the lesser-known stories of courage and adventure to life. With forewords by both Prince Albert of Monaco and Princess Anne of Great Britain, the book features over 100 captivating black and white images of the desolate climes faced by the explorers as well as images of the expedition team during their voyage. Headed by Robert F. Scott, the aim of this band of five intrepid explorers was to be the first to reach the uninhabited territory of the South Pole. Despite battling subzero temperatures and making it to their destination, on January 18th 1913, they were greeted by a Norwegian flag. Leaving embittered and defeated, they headed back towards their boat, only to die just 11 miles from the next depot. Published by Assouline, this oversized special edition is hand-bound with an embossed cover. - 167 -

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Touching the Void The filmic translation of Joe Simpson’s 1988 book of the same name, 2003’s Touching the Void is now widely regarded as one of the finest documentary films of all time. Recounting the story of Joe Simpson’s and Simon Yates’s near fatal climb of Siula Grande in the Peruvian Andes, it won the Best Film award at the 2004 Bafta Awards, as well as receiving numerous accolades worldwide. Although Simpson and Yates successfully reached the summit, it was in the descent that disaster struck, with Simpson severely breaking his leg and falling into a large crevasse. A tale of hard choices, survival instinct and courage under the most extreme circumstances, it created labels for both climbers: one as the man who survived and the other as ‘the man who cut the rope’. It may be almost 30 years since the fateful climb, but as an inspiring story, it continues to resonate today. - 168 -

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Into the Wild A 2007 film based on the book by Jon Krakauer, Into the Wild tells the real life story of Christopher McCandlessâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s travels across North America and life in the Alaskan wilderness. A polarising cultural figure, Christopher McCandless and his eventual fate have inspired several documentaries but it is Into the Wild that serves as the most noted testament to his life and journey. Leaving behind his conventional but affluent life in Virginia and donating his life savings to charity, at just 22 McCandless took to the road. Cutting off all connections to his family and with a dream to live a more simple existence in the wild, he crossed the country en route to Alaska. It would be his final resting place. Whilst his story continues to divide audiences, with some proclaiming him a hero and others using him as the poster boy for recklessness, it is a reminder that while the wild may call, it can also be unforgiving. - 169 -

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Series of A

Snowstorm

We speak to conceptual Japanese artist Toshihiko Shibuya about his work, the wrath of Mother Nature and why winter art is changing perceptions.

oshihiko Shibuya’s unique approach to nature is a quality that sets him apart from his contemporaries. As an installation artist, Shibuya’s ability to shape the landscape is what drives him to create works that not only resonate with the onlooker, but also the environment. Based in Sapporo, the largest city on the northern Japanese island of Hokkaido, Shibuya’s influence of the haphazard snowy climate result in works that are defined by the winter season. His series - 170 -

entitled Snow Pallet takes on this nature. Consisting of six installations, in six different locations, Snow Pallet is one of Shibuya’s most recognised works. Snow Pallet IV and V, installed in 2013, were located in Otaru’s Canal Plaza and the North Snow Land in Chitose. The third and second series were housed within the Yuki Sekiguchi Museum of Art and the Sapporo Art Park. Whilst the original Snow Pallet, created in 2011, was debuted in Sapporo’s Moerenuma Park, a place that resonates deeply with Shibuya. His most recent venture, Snow Pallet six, was created in 2014. Made in direct reaction to Hokkaido’s arduous winter that covered the island in a thick blanket of snow, the installation was devised as a marker to track the subzero conditions. Shibuya left his installation to battle the extremities of continuous blizzards and cold freezes, playing with light and colour to document his findings. ‘I installed all of the objects with brightly coloured bases before the first snowfall. We were able to view the changes in the amount of snow by how much the colour reflected from the start

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until the thaw of early spring,’ he explains. A prominent feature within Shibuya’s work is his relationship with colour. Typical of Japanese art is a reliance on nature, expressed through an appreciation of the changing landscape throughout the season. As a fundamental element to Shibuya’s designs, the notion of nature in art is reflective of the colours he chooses. ‘I think colour is a wonderful way in which you can rediscover the world. I read Goethe’s theory of colours and found his discovery interesting. He states that colour is derivative of clouds rather than the light or darkness. White appears first and blue appears last. The blue colour is next to darkness. Geothe’s analysis applies to Snow Pallet and my other works. The rate of reflection in Snow Pallet, which uses fluorescent paint, is very high, yet the colour gets clearer when it is cloudy and rainy. When I install certain pieces, the snowy white colour looks more beautiful than others. Sometimes it forms into interesting mounds. My objects are not the leading role; they are supporting actors for the beauty of nature. I think this

is just a Japanese tradition,’ he tells us. Whilst Shibuya’s approach to winter art begins with the outer elements, it’s how those elements affect and shape his work that informs his aesthetic. ‘I’ve found interesting natural phenomena present in every winter. When there are no winds, the snow piles up in humorous forms like marshmallows and macaroons. When there are warm days the snow melts, and colourful icicles form. The concept of my work means leaving the installed pieces alone in winter. No one can touch them,’ he says. Like Snow Pallet, much of what Shibuya creates provides a constant dialogue with nature. The amount of snowfall, light and precipitation that affect his works reflect his philosophy on the ever-changing environment. It’s a topic that strongly resonates with him not only through his art, but also on a personal level. ‘If we could control nature to live comfortably on earth we would destroy the ecosystem. We will never control or tame Mother Nature. In my work I try to use nature responsibly rather than to my advantage. My work

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is themed around the symbiosis and coexistence between humans and nature and the future of the environments we exist in.’ The growing danger that climate change proposes ensures Shibuya’s work is everrelevant for a contemporary audience. Whilst environmental concern is nothing new, the topic has allowed Shibuya to take on a new approach to winter art. ‘Everybody tends to hate winter, but if you change your point of view, the possibilities for the future will be opened widely. I think many people are interested in winter art that is not just a sculpture made out of snow. I hope my work will offer a new perspective for people who live in regions heavily affected by snow, like Sapporo,’ he says. - 172 -

In reference to Hokkaido’s prolonged snow season, Shibuya also looked to ice in his pursuit of promoting winter art. The ice hotel, constructed as part of Shibuya’s Ice Palette series, was created in collaboration with Creative Hokkaido, the tourist based design company. Devised to capture the island’s adoration for contemporary art, the ice hotel showcased three unique suites, one of which was designed by Shibuya himself, who placed fluorescent sheets behind blocks of ice to form a multicoloured interior. The beauty of the hotel lay in its transience, with the construction lasting as long as the sub zero temperatures. As an artist who deals in location, Shibuya is already invested in new projects for the upcoming year. During the summer month’s snow is replaced with water in his latest venture entitled Water Pallet. ‘The Water Pallet sits above artist Dani Karavan’s installation, Way to the Hidden Garden in Sapporo’s sculpture park. The steel disks used for the piece have brightly

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coloured bottoms that display vivid colours on the surface of other disks, and when the floating objects move under water, a bright colour appears. The effect of the reflection is beautiful,’ he says. Much of what Shibuya creates is reflective of how his contemporaries have utilised elements to form their own works of art. Dani Karavan is a name that resonates strongly with Shibuya. ‘I respect Dani and his works. I used the same concept of ‘7’ for Water Pallet. Dani’s piece uses seven objects, the number itself is important in the practice of his faith. However for Water Pallet I installed fourteen steel objects, which move with the wind and the flow of water,’ he says. Rather than drawing inspiration from others, Shibuya immerses himself as much in nature as his installations. ‘No person gives me inspiration, only the environment in which I live. I often take a walk through a nearby forest. I love the song of wild birds and insects, the sounds of the wind and nameless grasses and flowers,’ he explains. Another installation devised by Shibuya

is the White Mushroom Breeding Project. Located at the site of the Yamato elementary schoolhouse, the installation comprises of 500 tree stumps manicured for growing mushrooms. ‘The work tackles themes of regeneration, symbiosis and the coexistence of nature with humans. The installation is a way for people to rediscover nature in its smallest form. It’s a very organic experience for visitors,’ notes Shibuya. As Shibuya looks to next winter, his Snow Pallet installation will enter its seventh series. Whilst the cold climate will continue to hit his hometown of Sapporo, it’ll be Shibuya collecting the remnants in search of an innovative way to promote his winter message. - 173 -

mojeh men review

Everyone’s Talking About:

CUT by Wolfgang Puck With locations across the USA, as well as in London and Singapore, CUT by Wolfgang Puck has cemented an international reputation as the home of refined steak. Now Dubai has its own cut of the action, with the restaurant opening its doors at The Address, Downtown. With an interior designed by the renowned Tony Chi, CUT is imbued with a very modern take on relaxed luxury. Clean lines, ambient lighting and spectacular views across Downtown come together to create an atmosphere that is rich and inviting. The open kitchens only serve to heighten the sense of connectivity between the diners and the cuisine, with the ‘chef’s table’ situated opposite the main pass an ideal option for large parties and special occasions. Of course elegant surroundings would be immaterial if CUT didn’t excel where it counts: the food. The menu is a mix of classics with a twist, old favourites and new propositions. The starters include everything from a bonemarrow flan, with mushroom marmalade and parsley salad, to Iranian Beluga caviar. We recommend the Hokkaido scallop ‘carpaccio’ (with shaved myoga, wasabi aioli and citrus ponzu), the prime sirloin steak tartare and the Italian burrata.

It’s in the main courses that CUT defines itself as one of the best modern steakhouses. Before making your selection, you will be talked through the select cuts on offer, presented to you whole on a tray. From detailing the marbling on a slab of Australian Wagyu to explaining the aging process of a 21 day-old pure Black Angus, it’s an enticing opportunity to get a glimpse of the meat that will soon be served – cooked to your liking and to perfection. On the side you can opt for staples like French fries with herbs and tempura onion rings or indulge in a little added flair with choices such as creamed spinach with a fried organic egg, Yukon Gold potato purée or wild mushrooms with Japanese shishito peppers. Afterwards you’ll undoubtedly want to leave room for dessert, as the chocolate brownie with popcorn ice cream is both innovative and clear-your-plate delicious. Overall CUT by Wolfgang Puck is a welcome and muchneeded addition to the Dubai culinary scene. From the design to the menu, it is a restaurant that manages to both satisfy and leave you wanting more.

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Photographed by Riccado vimercati

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Rising From

The Ashes

Repurposing oil shale isn’t a glamourous job. But it’s something Janek Maar and his team at The Kiviõli Adventure Centre endured to realise a lifelong dream in the heart of Estonia’s Ida-Viru County.

t’s not everyday you find a fully functional ski resort sitting pretty atop a vast expanse of unused oil shale. Situated in the Ida-Viru County, The Kiviõli Adventure Centre is a revelation to locals and tourists alike. Divided into two vicinities, the camp offers a range of multi-climate excursions. One area is dedicated to a 700-metre-long zip line complete with downhill runs, a snowboarding park and mountain vehicle track. The other, a motocross centre that houses Estonia’s first World Championship course, measuring an impressive 1950m. Just one half of the design duo, Maar collaborated with developer and old friend Madis Olt on the outlining concept for the centre. In their youth they visited the IdaViru County and the dominating ash hills for recreation. It wasn’t until they tested the incline that the concept of a full-blown adventure centre kicked in. Initially planned as a small skiing site the team soon realised the hill’s full potential. ‘About 2 to 3 years after starting, it turned out that it was not possible to build something on a landfill consisting of industrial waste,’ notes Maar. ‘It became clear that we needed to build a centre that would be functional all year round. For us, the main advantage is that it is an artificial hill and that we were able to move a volume of 100000 m3 to design attractive ski slopes and snowboarding parks.’ Kiviõli was traditionally a mining district, formed in 1922. At the height of its success, mining of shale accounted for 85% of the world’s oil extraction, the remnants of which are used to this day for heat production. Oil shale mining depleted during the 40s after Estonia’s occupation by the Soviet Union, causing the competitive edge oil shale once had, to rub off into the dirt. Utilising the ash hill that has cast a dark shadow over the city for decades, the adventure centre has provided a hub to attract newfound tourism. Repurposing the repurposed was Janek Maar’s mantra. ‘It was mainly youth and the thrill of making something like this that drove us to pursue the project. We had no experience of any kind,’ says Maar. ‘Fortunately, at the beginning, our targets were small. When the concept of the centre and media publicity grew over the years, it started to motivate us to overcome the challenges.’

In order to receive planning permission for the centre, Maar and his team had to endure extensive board meetings at the Ministry of the Environment to meet Estonian legislation. ‘They considered us naïve and suggested we dealt with the hill in a new way. But as we started to employ environmental surveys, step-by-step they became accustomed to the concept. It took six years of geological and environmental examinations to prove that the hill was safe for people to ski on.’ Thirteen years on and with backing from Enterprise Estonia, the country’s investment government agency, The Kiviõli Adventure Centre has thrived in a struggling economic climate. It’s thanks to clever marketing strategies for year-round skiing, as well as cost-conscious developments, that the site has managed to find success. ‘We have started with various adventure sports attractions like the mountain car track and zip line. The centre features all necessary facilities for organizing workshops and various team events, as well as festivals for winter or summer retreats,’ says Maar. Whilst a thriving tourism trade has done wonders for the camp, it has been the surrounding Ida-Viru County that has reaped the biggest rewards. ‘The image of the county as an ugly industrial area has changed dramatically. This in turn ensures many young people are not forced to leave the county anymore to find work.’ The Kiviõli Adventure Centre has provided a second rebirth for the county. From its industrial heyday of the early 20s, spanning nearly five decades of commercial success, to a dream start-up created from nothing, Maar has redefined the perception of Ida-Viru for the better. Still, as Maar looks to the future, the concept of Kiviõli’s longevity is as important as the legacy the hill left behind. ‘We intend on developing our own ‘alps’. Over the coming years we plan to develop services targeted to children to become more attractive to families,’ says Maar. ‘We deal with our partners in order to bring the major international sporting events and festivals to Ida-Viru. There is no shortage of activities and adventures waiting here.’

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Destination Ski:

Our Top ten With plenty of familiar names, a few surprises and an unashamedly unscientific approach, we chart our top 10 ski destinations for the 2014/15 season. So in no particular order, let’s get this snow on the road (sorry).

Cortina D’Ampezzo, Italy

Favoured by visitors looking to take a softer route to the slopes, Cortina D’Ampezzo, in Italy’s Southern Alps, is our recommendation if you’re introducing an intermediate skier to test their first incline. Quintessentially Italian, Cortina is situated within an old cobble-lined town, rich in culture and surrounded by the breathtaking Dolomites mountain range.

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Image: Leander Wenger

Zermatt, Switzerland Set against the backdrop of the awe inspiring Matterhorn, one of the highest peaks in the Alps, lays the ever-popular Swiss resort of Zermatt. Known for its world-class incline and frequent heavy snowfall, Zermatt made our roundup for being one of the country’s most elite on-piste resorts. Due to the high altitude, ski conditions are excellent, particularly in the Triftji region, which specialises in freestyle mogul racing.

Meribel, France

Nestled between Courchevel and Val Thorens, in the 3 Valleys ski area of France, lies Meribel. With 600km of piste available for visitors to enjoy, Meribel found a spot on our list for the sheer amount of sporting pursuits on offer. Take a class in the ski school, test your balance with ice-skating, or race around the National Park in your very own ski buggy.

Jackson Hole, Wyoming Gaining prominence over the last quarter century, Wyoming’s Jackson Hole has established itself as one of North America’s most significant ski resorts. Running 60 miles long from Hoback Junction in the south to Togwotee Pass in the north, Jackson Hole made our list for its scenic aerial tram ride to Rendezvous Mountain, tailor made for biking and climbing pursuits.

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Image: Mick Crane and Tourism Whistler

Whistler, Canada Ideal for skiers at every level, Whistler is the firm favourite for families looking to take the slopes together. Set just inland from Vancouver, Whistler provides a heavy yet wet snowfall year-round, due to its proximity to the Pacific cold front. We recommend visiting the Blackcomb Mountain, which stands tall at a peak of 7,992 ft and is tailor made for ski and boarding pursuits.

St. Anton, Austria The tiny Austrian state of Tyrol is home to some of the most extreme aprĂ¨s-skiing known to man, with St. Anton its crowning jewel. Off-piste activities aside, St. Anton made our list for its established ski heritage, offering an aerial tramway that reaches over 9000ft and an extensive ski cross-country pathway of 25 miles to and from the resort.

Alyeska, Alaska For most hardcore ski enthusiasts Alaska, with its pristine pistes and annual snowfall of over 16 metres, serves as a winter playground at the height of the sporting season. Placing on our list this season is the Alyeska resort. Ideal for its high altitude mountaineering and renowned ski tours, visitors can gauge their inner daredevil whilst heli-skiing down the black diamond slopes.

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Aspen, Colorado Aspen, Colorado, is of course renowned as a firm favourite with the ski elite and the social elite to boot. Whilst the resort, in the Roaring Fork Valley region, may have become increasingly upmarket, Aspen made our list for its on-piste pursuits. We never tire of skiing down the legendary Highland Bowl or experiencing the breathtaking panoramic views of the Rocky Mountains.

Riksgransen, Sweden Gaining prominence thanks to its unusually long ski season (well alive into June), Swedenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Riksgransen resort boasts a variation of pistes, ideal for visiting ski enthusiasts. What most captures us is the Riksgransen worldclass ski tour. Transporting participants into the icy wilderness of the Scandi outback, Riksgransen will have you roaming after hours under the midnight sun.

Chamonix, France

ÂŠ Julian Love/JAI/Corbis

As quaint as the name suggests, the Chamonix Valley, set high into the French Alps, is our favourite resort for mountaineering pursuits. Chamonix is renowned for its ski education courses, providing a hub for instructors and mountain guides to qualify. Climbers also look to attempt the world famous Mont Blanc, a 15,781 ft peak of rock, snow and ice.

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Image: Carrie Vonderhaar

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Into the Deep:

Fabien Cousteau

As the grandson of Jacques Cousteau, Fabien Cousteau had large diving boots to fill. Now a famed explorer and aquatic filmmaker in his own right, he is continuing the Cousteau legacy. We spoke to him at his home in New York. You come from a family of explorers, what does that lineage mean to you and how it has impacted on your own decision to pursue a life of exploration? It’s obviously a very big honour to be a part of that line. With the rest of my family members having dedicated their lives to the oceans, it’s not only an honour but also a big responsibility. It’s a doubleedged sword. Doors are opened that allow me to meet with people of an influential nature, but if you choose to go through those doors the expectations are much greater. Was there an expectation from an early age that this would be the kind of life you would pursue? Actually quite the opposite, I was encouraged to do whatever I thought was my passion. With that in mind I was always encouraged to experience various different areas, so that I could get a better sense of the world. But the oceans are such an amazing place and I’ve been immersed in their influence since I was four years old. I’m hard-pressed to find anything else I’m quite as passionate about. How would you describe your connection with the underwater world? It’s my home. I perhaps feel more comfortable underwater than I do on land! It’s such a playground for the imagination, a wonderland for the eyes and a fireworks display of life. You’ve worked extensively filming underwater, can you tell us about some of the challenges that poses? I’d say it’s easily four or five times more difficult to film underwater than it is on land. Whether it’s environmental factors or the fact your subject matter is not cooperating, you constantly have to grapple with nature. You broke the record for the longest time spent underwater with a film crew, was that a specifically challenging experience?

Mission 31 (Cousteau’s mission to live and work underwater for 31 days) was extraordinarily challenging on many levels - first of all the difficulty in fundraising for it. Physically it was challenging and, of course, psychologically. We were subjected to three atmospheres in a wet and humid environment for an extended period of time. Emotionally being away from friends and family for over a month - 2 months including training - was also tough. What it did afford us however, was unprecedented access and the luxury of time underwater. We collected three years of data in 31 days. We could film animals in a way that just isn’t possible from a boat. It allowed us to see new behavior and occasionally even a new species. The benefits outweighed the problems. What would you say is the message you wanted to convey through your filmmaking, outside of purely documenting? For Mission 31 it’s quite simple, that the Earth is our life support system. When we talk about environmental issues, the oceans are often the stepchild of those discussions. Without oceans we’re just a little brown rock in space, but with the oceans we’re an oasis in space. We’ve been treating them, globally speaking, as an endless resource and as a garbage can. The manmade chemicals and pollutants that we’re throwing in are now starting to show up in our own circulatory systems. The fish, the coral reefs, all of the things we consider natural resources, have diminished to the point where it is pushing us to the brink economically. So it’s through the lens of adventure that we want to be able to connect people more with the oceans. It’s about the beauty of the oceans, the thrill of discovery and their fragility as it pertains to us. What can the average person do about issues of climate change and pollution? Of paramount importance is the power of the individual. We stand to gain a lot from bolstering

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Image: Kip Evans

the positive actions of the individual. Whether it’s using a Seafood Watch card to make better decisions or speaking out on social media, it’s really about being conscious of our impact. Climate change is a very nebulous and overwhelming topic that has the ability to shut down the individual’s attention because it seems insurmountable. But whether we live on the oceanfront or a thousand miles away, climate change is going to affect every aspect of our lives and it starts in the ocean. The oceans absorb anywhere from 60% to 65% of manmade Co2, which then triggers all sorts of effects underwater. It precludes the individual to think about climate change in his or her own world. None of us can do away with black fuel related vehicles right now, as much as that would be fantastic. But if one can commute, if one can car pool, if one can ride a bicycle once a week instead of taking the SUV, that cumulatively makes a big difference. You’ve founded and worked with several environmental initiatives, can you tell us more about your own projects? In honour of my grandfather’s 100th birthday, I founded a non-profit called Plant a Fish. Its aim is to bridge the gap between land and ocean. So we take individuals and communities out to do restoration projects, as it pertains to the aquatic environment - mangrove plantings, sea turtle releases, coral restoration. And through the action of that restoration the individual starts learning more about the aquatic environment and what it means to them.

Moving on to slightly lighter territory, you’ve been called the ‘sexiest explorer’ by People Magazine. How do you feel about that kind of a moniker? I take those things lightheartedly! I’m lucky enough to be included so I feel humbled by that, but at the same time those kinds of articles come and go and people forget. Plus people get older! If I were named the ‘smartest man in the sea’ then it would probably be a little more interesting to me. What does the spirit of adventure mean to you? That sings to my heart. For me adventure is satisfying your curiosity. A lot of people have questions in life but they never take the steps to answer those questions. I happen to love nature and breaching the final frontier so, for me, exploration is learning more about the mysteries of the sea and then as a storyteller, bringing those answers back and sharing them with the world. My grandfather used to say, ‘If one person has the chance to lead an extraordinary life, he or she has no right to keep it for themselves.’ Is there a specific adventure you would love to undertake in the future? I’d love to explore the oceans of Mars. But I’d like to come back afterwards! With an upbringing so tied to the ocean, could you ever imagine a life entirely on land? I would have a difficult time transitioning to life entirely on land, mainly because the oceans represent 90% of our world’s living space. So relegating myself to land would almost be like condemning myself to jail.

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Image: Kip Evans and Marc Ostrick

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A Stay to Stay

The Alpina is the first new luxury hotel in Gstaad in over a century, but the road to completion was a winding one. We look at the hotel redefining luxury in the Alps.

ith a price tag of $337 million, The Alpina Gstaad wasn’t cheap, but then again is anything in that particularly sought after piece of the world? Sitting neatly within 5 acres of prime Swiss countryside it is the first luxury hotel to be built in the area in over a century. Opening in 2012 its very existence was dependent on the persistence and perseverance of majority partner Jean-Claude Mimran, nicknamed the Sugar King of Africa, and minority partner Marcel Bach. In fact, due to Switzerland’s rigourously followed objections process, it took 15 years of bureaucratic wrangling before the hotel would open its doors to the international jet set. These days those involved in its financing and construction are reluctant to revisit the nature of those objections, but it reportedly took five years to sway one neighbour alone in favour of the project. ‘Something approaching us

is far more of a threat than something that is moving away,’ the hotel’s General Manager Eric Favre told us. ‘We naturally fear what is different. Ultimately the hotel is the result of a combination between the Mimran and Bach families’ innovative vision, passion and constant search for beauty with the desire to go beyond Swiss stereotypes and the expected.’ Whilst the construction of a 56 room hotel in an otherwise peaceful locale – in Oberbort, one of the region’s most exclusive areas – was bound to ruffle feathers, it would be disingenuous to say that is a radical departure from the expected, in the best possible way of course. The Alpina Gstaad is quintessential Swiss luxury: discreet, comfortable and authentic. It adheres to tradition yet incorporates the modern. Now that the hotel has been operational for several years, it has cemented its position as a playground for the über

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wealthy. Across New Year and into February it becomes a honey pot for billionaires looking to enjoy skiing on glaciers, sled rides and all of the other activities one expects from Gstaad. Try booking a last minute suite in high season and you’ll find they’ve all been snapped up months before. So if the Alpina is proving such a draw, objections aside, why has it taken so long? ‘The Swiss tourism industry has by no means recovered from the decline in bookings caused by the strength of the Swiss Franc and the high cost of living in recent years,’ Favre explains. ‘It’s inevitably down to the world’s volatile economic environment, and because investors search for more attractive and profitable markets. The Alpina Gstaad is a project of passion.’ Back to the topic of cost it’s understandable why The Alpina might not have seemed an entirely sound investment. Costing $337 million, that breaks down to an eye watering $6 million per room or, in other terms, a lot of people checking in to see a return. But by incorporating chalets and private apartments into the build, Mimran and Bach had the costs covered before a single reservation had been made. It was an astute way to ensure that the hotel, lovely though it is, didn’t become a white elephant for its seasoned backers. Fashioned from Ringgenberg limestone and antique wood, the building is true to the spirit of the region and the same is true of the interior, in ‘the hewing of stone, leather and centuries-old fir trees crafted by

renowned artisans,’ as Favre details. It also includes a private cinema, a Six Senses spa and three restaurants headed by Marcus G. Lindner, formerly of the two Michelin-starred Mesa in Zurich. ‘Gstaad is a place where those who live in the fast lane can find the space to slow down. It has always delivered variety and surprises year-round, and that’s where The Alpina Gstaad shines,’ Favre tells us. ‘With a fresh interpretation of Alpine chic, the hotel provides an experience beyond the expected whilst creating a unique environment that did not exist in Gstaad.’ To surprise an audience used only to the best is no mean feat and gives an indication of just how far The Alpina has gone to elevate luxury, in what was already a region synonymous with understated refinement. ‘The Alpina Gstaad clientele are some of the most well travelled individuals in the world. They search for a combination of thoughtful, innovative and intuitive products and services, combined with the discretion that has always been associated with Swiss luxury and for which Gstaad is famous.’ Whilst Le Rosey might famously be relocating its renowned winter campus out of Gstaad and taking the children of the international elite with it, it’s safe to say that the well heeled and well connected will continue to flock to its pistes. The Alpina may be the new kid on the Swiss block, but with its combination of elegance and authenticity, it’s destined to be the go-to hotel in the region. A destination 100 years in the making.

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My Bagnères-de-Luchon:

Layne Redman A TV presenter, MC and actor, the British born Layne Redman is perhaps most known as co-presenter of the wildly successful Out & About on Dubai One. He offers us his insider’s take on a winter in Luchon.

Superbagnères

Bagnères-de-Luchon, also referred to as Luchon, is a resort town in South West France, about 87 miles from Toulouse. It’s a beautiful spa town at the foot of the central Pyrenees, in a stunning valley. Living in the UAE, there’s nothing better than breaking out the winter wardrobe, wrapping up warm and getting out and about in a winter wonderland. Do: Ski. The reason I first visited Luchon. Superbagnères is Luchon’s ski resort. It’s connected to the town by a gondola lift that runs directly from the town centre to the resort in just 8 minutes. You can also try mountaineering, ice climbing and take a dog sled ride. | Do: Thermal Baths. Luchon has natural thermal springs. You can bathe in a hot, sulphurous atmosphere in caves that run approximately 100 metres inside the Superbagnères mountain. | Eat: The liveliest street is Allées d’Étigny, an avenue planted with lime-trees. The road is lined with bars and restaurants ideal for a little aprés ski action. | Eat: La Paix is a brasserie that does lovely seafood a la plancha and oysters. Located on Allees d’Etigny. | Eat: For a more gourmet experience, try Le Baluchon on Avenue Mal Foch. | Eat: A Great little café is Le Bocage on Allees d’Etigny, with delicious homemade pastries and teas. | Stay: For me Alti Hotel is the best bet. It’s cosy in the winter and quite lively in the summer months. Located at 19 Allees d’Etigny. | Stay: You can opt for a holiday cottage for a much more authentic ski resort feel. This is one of my favourites: Les Granges de la Fontaine 2 - 3 bis rue de la Fontaine - 31110 Antignac. - 188 -

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Thermes de Luchon

CafĂŠ de la Paix

Alti Hotel

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Denmark:

the Happiest

country on earth? By Freya McOmish

enmark has a concept, known as janteloven, that advises Danes never to think of themselves as better than anyone else. However, as far as the UN World Happiness Index is concerned, they have every reason to brag. Denmark’s triumph as the happiest country in the world made international headlines, resulting in an overwhelming interest in this small country that suffers long, dark, depression-inducing winters. In essence, the study focused on an almost Aristotelian notion of happiness: Eudaimonia, or ‘human flourishing.’ In this sense, happiness means having the good fortune of possessing amenities in life such as health, friendship, and opportunities to enjoy the beauty of the world. That is what Danes do well. Beyond GDP, visitors to this northern kingdom will find that there is something special in the state of Denmark:

Enjoying the small things There is a Danish phenomenon of hygge (pronounced like ‘hoo-ga’), which is the art of creating intimacy, conviviality and selfnourishment by enjoying the good things. Hygge has many manifestations; lighting candles at home in the evenings or riding bikes together at an enjoyable pace. The Danes’ focus isn’t on consumerism; their focus is on living, and often with less. Inspiring!

Healthy living Biking is commonplace in Denmark and a person could be considered an eccentric if they don’t embrace this national means of transportation. Not only is biking eco-friendly (a matter of deep concern for the Danes), it’s also healthy. Although Danes often indulge in hotdogs, salty liquorice, beer and cakes, supermarkets are generously stocked with natural, high-fibre and often organic options.

Embrace the good and the bad Danes embrace their schizophrenic weather and make the most of a sunny day by flocking

to parks in droves to relax with music and beer. Sundays in the winter might be enjoyed by candlelight at home, eating fresh buns curled up on the sofa. Getting to work through rain, snow and gale force winds doesn’t bother them much because ‘there’s no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothing.’ Viking genes perhaps?

Freedom to make life choices Danes pay substantial taxes (about 50%) to support their welfare state. In many ways, this tax system trades financial freedom for social freedom. If a person in Denmark loses their job, it’s a sad affair, but the blow is lessened by a welfare system that pays up to 90% of what they previously earned. Culturally, people feel compelled to find work as soon as possible but interestingly they don’t feel guilty when they receive the benefits because they have paid their 50% tax for years. Because Danes have universal health care, free education and generous parental leave, citizens have the freedom to build a life they want. In Denmark, you won’t find the public joviality of the Irish or the larrikinism of Australians, but you will find a people that are remarkably content, a curious mix of laid-back and conscientious. Although Danes sometimes find it hard to boast about how lucky they are, they have a robust collective self-esteem and non-threatening national pride. Does this mean that Denmark is the best country? For some yes, and others no. Pointing out the strengths of Denmark is no attempt to paint an absurdly idealised portrait of Denmark, because, like all countries, Denmark has its failings and pitfalls. There is no perfect country, as Utopia is a subjective ideal, dependant on your values and trade offs between them. After living here for three years, the idea of living anywhere else becomes harder to consider. Denmark may not be a perfect country but it is closer to such an ideal than most. Or, at the very least, worth a visit.

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It might sound like the end of the world, but Snowmageddon, so aptly nicknamed by the media to scare the living daylights out of its devoted ski enthusiasts, hit Australia full force this summer, in what only can be described as a winter awakening. As the result of low pressure swirling from the Southern Ocean, the entire stretch of Victoria and New South Wales became a virtual snow globe, blanketed by almost five feet of snow and winds well above 100kph. Whilst we typically associate Australia with warmer weather thanks to a lifestyle of beach culture and surfing, it is on the slopes where true popularity has spawned. Snowmageddon’s onslaught created a media blizzard that allowed businesses to turn their fortunes around. The dichotomy of Mother Nature’s wrath is what makes this story seem all the more unique. Snowmageddon didn’t ravage landscapes, tear apart communities or bear fatalities; in fact it only did wonders to the ski season, albeit causing a slight chill for those unlucky Melbourne residents in the west. Though this isn’t the first time Snowmageddon has enforced its furious wrath. In February 2010 during the North American blizzard, the storm tracked from the Baja California Sur to the East Coast but wasn’t quite as forgiving, resulting in severe weather, extensive flooding and historic snowfalls in every one of the Mid-Atlantic states. For this Australian storm, reaping the benefits of freak weather was the very mantra of local ski resorts dotted around the state of Victoria, particularly Mount Buller located in the Shire of Mansfield. The resort charted Snowmageddon’s force in anticipation of heavy snowfall and even sent out a Snowmageddon 2.0 bulletin following

a second wave of storms to hit the area. ‘The resort was well prepared for heavy snowfalls with operations teams on standby in anticipation of the first dump of snow for the season. Snow clearing machinery, ski lift teams, snow grooming and snowmaking crews were in full swing when the resort received over 80cm of snow along with very cold temperatures two weeks after the official opening of the season,’ says Niki Donaldson, media and marketing officer at the resort. ‘Heavy snowfalls have given skiers, boarders and visitors to the resort reassurance that they can experience world-class conditions on the slopes skiing and riding in some of the best conditions across over 300 hectares of terrain.’ The ripple effect Snowmageddon has caused on the tourist trade ensured Australians vacationed locally as opposed to venturing overseas for winter pursuits. Coronet Park on the South Island for example, opened the first ski field in Australasia thanks to an increase of snowfall prior to the ski season debut. ‘Snowmageddon is the best thing that has happened. With a slower start to the season this year it was a blessing to receive the abundance of snow that came with the storms,’ continues Donaldson. ‘The heavy snowfall has had a very positive impact on tourist trade and visitation to the resort. Some of the busiest days on record were seen throughout the two weeks of the Victorian school holidays with close to 60,000 visitors entering the resort during the holidays.’ It seems Aussies aren’t only fond of the summer rays, but enjoy an outrageous blizzard to get them back on the slopes.

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Snowmageddon

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Ski Vermont Nestled between the western side of New York and the eastern border of New Hampshire sits New England’s Vermont. As the second least populous state in America, it’s little wonder Vermont relies so heavily on tourism. The quintessential hallmark of the state is its ever-adapting climate. Whether lush in the summer or under a blanket of snow in the winter, Vermont is a place to call home for skiers worldwide. Alpine skiing is the breadwinner for local businesses dotted around the mountainous landscape; some of the largest ski slopes in New England are located in and around Burke Mountain, Killington Ski Resort and Bolton Valley. The taste of adventure and thrill seeking is perhaps the biggest paradox to the tranquil surroundings. Sarah Wojcik of Ski Vermont, the state’s leading non-profit trade association, recognises the importance community brings to the area. ‘Vermont has core community values and the people and businesses support their neighbours in hard times and good. It’s what makes it such a friendly, welcoming place and an escape for so many people.’ Ski Vermont has been instrumental in Vermont’s thriving tourism trade, representing the twenty alpine and thirty Nordic resorts across the region. The industry has been responsible for funding $700 million spent around the alpine communities that surround the resorts each season. In return over $120 million in tax revenues is pumped back to the state, which allows for almost 3000 Vermont companies to function year round.

What threatens to diminish such fruitful endeavours however, is the ever-changing climate. As summer seasons draw out longer, the winter alpine circuit have had to discover new ways to attract trade. ‘While snowmaking and increased efficiency are key to conditions and costs, many resorts are also working to diversify their offerings; both indoors and outdoors, as well as running four-season operations,’ notes Jen Butson of Vermont’s Department of Tourism & Marketing. The concept of four-season tourism is a growing factor as to why Vermont has been so financially successful. Lack of snowfall is the state’s biggest danger zone but marketing pushes tourists to visit year after year, most notably from New York and Boston. ‘Obviously, snowfall is our friend and we benefited from the major winter storms that hit our region these past two seasons which boosted visitor numbers, however we are ever expanding and upgrading our snowmaking systems to ensure quality products whether Mother Nature blesses us with major storms or not,’ states Wojcik. The past two alpine seasons have seen peak tourist trade as Vermont enjoyed 4.5 million skiers flocking to the region, a hefty increase from 2012’s 3.9 million following a prominent summer. There’s a dual outcome to erratic climate change. As temperatures rise more precipitation will fall and in turn hinder snow production prior to the ski season. Yet during winter months that very precipitation will freeze to heavy snowfall, something Vermont has much experience with. This climate ‘sweet spot’ Vermont is feeling is a comforting factor to rely upon, regardless of its temporary status.

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ver the past few years Lebanon has enjoyed a fruitful tourism boom. Situated between the Mediterranean Basin and the Arabian hinterland, this small Middle Eastern country boasts an ideal climate for visitors year round. But what you might not know is that Lebanon is one of the few places on earth where you can surf and ski on the same day. The country’s geological make up, renowned for its natural snow-capped mountains and expansive sandy beaches, provides a perfect opportunity for tourists to experience a multi-climate destination. Surrounded by both the Mediterranean Sea in the west and the mountain range in the east, Lebanon enjoys an average temperature of 30°C during the summer months. Here the option is to flock to the beach or to the altitudecooled slopes, dependent on whether tanning or travelling is more of a priority. During the winter months meanwhile, Lebanon’s mountain peaks receive a smattering of snow, lending the country its seasonal name, Lubnan, translated from Arabic as ‘white.’ Lebanon is divided into four distinct regions that border the coastal plain, the Lebanon mountain range, the Beqaa Valley and the Anti-Lebanon Mountains, stretching from the Syrian border in the north to the border of Israel in the south. Running parallel to the Mediterranean coast, the Lebanon Mountains peak at over 10,000 ft above sea level.

Opposite to the range lies the Anti-Lebanon incline with a peak of 9,232 ft, both ideal for dedicated mountaineers. Lebanon’s ski season runs from December to early April, and during the summer month’s visitors can escape the city whilst pursuing hiking, kayaking and paragliding. Each of the six ski resorts in Lebanon accommodates skiers and snowboarders of all levels. The most prominent is the InterContinental Mzaar with a ski terrain altitude that ranges from 6,069 ft to 8,087 ft. The Mzaar is favoured widely for its luxury lodging and bespoke spa facilities. Being just one hour’s drive from the capital of Beirut, the resort has proved a popular place to stay for tourists looking to experience not only the mountain range, but also the surf. Beyond the on-piste domains await 200km of tropical Mediterranean beaches, with oceans ideal for surfing. Just 25km south from Beirut sits Jonas Beach. As a privately owned resort, Jonas Beach has the advantage of being open year round, and the windy conditions that hit the area call for excellent surfing opportunities. Closer to home is the world class Almina, providing supreme surfing conditions in the summer and extreme waves in the winter due to an increased surfing swell. The optimum month to venture off on a surf-come-ski day trip in Lebanon is during late March, yet visitors are guaranteed to have the best of both worlds whatever the season.

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Urban Nomad:

The Catskills

A hop, skip and a jump away from New York City, we share why The Catskills are an outdoor paradise for those who crave adventure on vacation.

or those who are unfamiliar, it’s probably an oversimplification to suggest The Catskills are The Hamptons for adventurous types, yet there are parallels between the two. Both lie a few hours away from the throng of the city (just under two hours for The Hamptons versus just under three for The Catskills), are trusty getaways for upscale urban New Yorkers and both offer a dramatic change of pace from life in the five boroughs. Yet they represent wildly different experiences. Where The Hamptons are classic Americana of the white tablecloth and Ralph Lauren polo shirt variety, The Catskills are rustic and pastoral; In The Hamptons mansions audaciously line the shorelines whilst in The Catskills, the affluent tuck their helipads and grand lodges into the trees and away from prying eyes. The lack of ostentation is undeniably one of the most appealing aspects of The Catskills. The region offers simple

and robust pleasures. The 1% may be more sparsely represented than in The Hamptons, but those that choose to make the journey mountain-ward will find that comfort and modernity await, even if out and out glamour might be thin on the ground. Accommodations in The Catskills are varied but what you won’t find are glitzy chain hotels or gilded luxury. The hotels and spas have a homely feel and forgo lavishness in favour of humble comfort. Locations like The Graham & Co., with its motel style rooms and stripped back, almost Scandinavian aesthetic, afford a certain cool and appeal to the waves of style conscious urbanites who regularly trade the streets of Williamsburg for the slopes of Hunter Mountain. Of course, one doesn’t head to the Catskills for cosseted pampering. Here the hotel rooms serve simply as a place to lay your head and stow your belongings. It is the region’s natural beauty

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and adrenaline filled pursuits that will occupy your time. In Whilst skiing is understandably a pull for those already The Catskills time indoors merely means less time outdoors. based in The Big Apple, or staying for an extended period Defined by its mountainous and forested terrain, Catskill Park and looking for a snowy escape, there’s little to entice the consists of 700,000 acres spread across four counties. This international traveller solely in The Catskill’s slope offerings. ‘wilderness’ manages to offer an immense array of autumn After all, why fly to New York to drive for three hours, when a and winter activities, from the hardcore to the gentle. The similar journey time can take you to ‘le grand ski’ of some of area’s downhill skiing is not a the most distinguished resorts rival for Aspen, but considering in the world? In actuality The the proximity to NYC, it has Catskills are about the variety of pursuits on offer. long proved a draw for in-theknow Manhattanites eager to One of the region’s most This ‘wilderness’ manages engaging activities is ice take to the snow. to offer an immense array of climbing. During the winter The most noted slopes are months the numerous those of Hunter, Windham, autumn and winter activities, Belleayre and Plattekill. The waterfalls of the region freeze largest and most equipped solid, providing an unparalleled from the hardcore to the gentle. is Hunter Mountain but as opportunity to dig out your ice a result it’s also the busiest. pick and scale a solid wall that With comparable terrain, in summer would be in heavy Windham and Belleayre flow. Although an activity more offer a rounded experience for all skill levels, whilst suited to the ambitious, it does deliver an experience that Plattekill is our recommendation for a ‘diamond in the epitomises the daring spirit of the area. Naturally it’s not rough’ experience. There’s no arterial route to carry you without its risks, but where’s the fun in ‘totally safe’? The easily from the city to the slopes and, as such, you’re Notch, The Playground, Hellhole and Kaaterskill Falls are less likely to be fighting the crowds on your arrival. the best bets when on the hunt for a waterfall to ascend. - 196 -

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While in winter many of the waterways are transformed Canal House in Ulster County offers exceptional tasting into solid walkways of ice, there are still a few areas where menus, made from locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. kayaking and tubing are popular and trust us when we say Highlights include the four mushroom soup, duck confit that the temperatures of the rivers only serve to make the and roast poussin. There’s also a taste of Arabia, with the occasional splash all the more bracing. Middle Eastern menu at Joshua’s in Woodstock. Whilst this With almost 100 peaks above 3000ft, something The Catskills bijou eatery might be unpretentious and unfussy in décor, also offer in abundance is a it serves up some of the best dramatic view. Compared meals in town, is always busy to the undulating sands and and has even been given the glass skyscrapers of the Middle thumbs up by the notoriously East, the endless stretches of picky New York Times. When When venturing into the trees, broken up by whiteventuring into the towns of towns of the area, it’s capped mountains and the area, it’s worth noting glistening gorges, are a world that there’s plenty to enjoy. worth noting that there’s away from home. The area’s We are talking about the Woodstock of ‘Woodstock natural beauty feels relatively plenty to enjoy. unspoilt, and is even more Festival’ fame of course. incredible considering the Ultimately The Catskills aren’t pandemonium of one of the for everyone. When visiting world’s biggest cities is just a the east of the USA, those few hour’s drive away. who prefer the gentle breeze of the beach to the fortifying However sturdy your coat, few things build up an appetite chill of the mountain winds will undoubtedly be more at more than an afternoon pumping adrenaline in the cold. Like home in The Hamptons. But if thrills, adventure and a hotels, the restaurants here are geared towards atmosphere taste of the wild float your canoe, then The Catskills are over frills but high quality is very much on the agenda. Depuy a grownup’s playground and getaway unlike any other. - 197 -

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