Our teenage years are a pivotal moment of discovery in our lives. They are years of change, a time to break boundaries and rebel. The sixties’s was an era of immense change, the first era of complete cultural rebellion in all areas. This Month, Dazed finds itself enthralled by the raw rebellion that captivated the 60s and the teenage youth culture that came with it. In this issue, we focus on the subculutres that British teenage youth culture was divided by, Mods and Rockers. We bring to life all aspects of life during this iconic era, ever-changing fashion, the introduction of the Pop Art movement, the birth of the MOD target. We bring a new light to the music industry, film and inspirations which live on today. From Peter Blake’s iconic artwork recently brought back to life in contemporary art, to The Bay City Roller’s very own Pat Mglynn reflecting on his time growing up in such an influential time in music - we take a fresh approach to every aspect of the era that is the sixties.
introduction
contributers editor
quadrophenia review
sub editor
music playlist
heriot watt ad
q&a
backcover
dazed & confused layout
we are mod layout
adopted by mods
photoshoot styling
vinyl villains
Heather Henry Cark Molly Antoney & Henry Clark Henry Clark Sarah Woolley & Molly Anthoney Sarah Woolley& Karoline Laursen
dont let the music die
Henry Clark Henry Clark
Molly Anthoney
Molly Anthoney Molly Anthoney
Karoline Laursen & Niamh Donaldson
makeup
Molly Anthoney, Karoline Laursen & Niamh Molly Anthoney Donaldson
just wing it
Natalia Kalinowska & Molly Anthoney
editors note
Molly Anthoney & Henry Clark
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JUST WING IT ONE OF THE KEY ELEMENTS OF RECREATING A 60’S LOOK IS THE STRIKING MAKEUP THAT THEY USED TO WEAR. ABBEY LOUISE SMITH, A FORMER MAKEUP ARTIST WHO HAS WORKED FOR THE LIKES OF MAC AND LAURA MRECIER, TALKED TO US ABOUT THE INFLUENCE OF 60S STYLE ON CONTEMPORARY MAKEUP, POPULAR STYLES TODAY AND TECHNIQUES AND ADVICE ON HOW TO ACHIEVE THE PERFECT 60S CUT CREASE RECREATION.
What is the most common look people ask you to create with their makeup? There is a couple but some I would say the most popular requests and for the perfect foundation, the perfect red lipstick and the perfect winged liner. People usually ask for that one thing they find difficult to do themselves to learn and improve their skills. Have you ever been asked to do a Twiggy or 60s inspired makeup look? If so, for what occasion? A couple of people i have worked on have asked for a look with 60s inspired features, its mostly younger people, looking for a more dramtic look. Customers with a smaller eye shape often as for the twiggy style makeup, a cut crease, because it opens up the eye. When you put a lighter colour in the waterline and create a darker crease in the lid - it gives the illusion of a bigger eye. Would you say people like to experiment with colour or do they prefer to stick to neutrals? When I worked for Laura Mercier, the customers prefered to stick with neutral, more natural shades. During my time at MAC, the clients I worked with liked to experiment with colour. It very much depends on the personality of the client and the look they are trying to achieve. If they were going for a 60s look, it is highly likely that there would be a lot of colour involved. Have you ever been inspired by 60s makeup yourself? I love Twiggy look and I love the cut crease and the sweeping false lashes. Again as I said, it opens up the eye which means its quite flattering on most people. What makeup trend would you say it still current that was popular in the 60s? I would say the heavy crease and the cut crease is coming back. Just the definition of the crease in general really to open up the eye and make the eye look bigger as that is the look everyone is going for now. When trying to achieve a 60s inspired look, would feature would you recommend to focus on? Both eyes and lips are actually as important as each other. You can play them up and play them down depending on what colours you’re using and the complexion of the client. If somebody has got a smaller lip shape, its better to use a neutral lip colour and to exaggerate the eyes to attract attention to they eyes. Again, f they have great lips then use a brighter lip colour to exaggerate them and a more toned down eye.
Do you know of any course or classes that you would recommend to learn 60s makeup? You can get specialsed courses with individual artists. They offer them in makeup salons and studios such as Kerry McMillan or Jamie Genevieve, both trained Scottish Make-Up artists who offer oneto-one lessions. You could also request a 60s inspired look if you went to a makeup counter such as MAC or Urban Decay. However, if you have a deep interest in makeup, Edinburgh College offer HND or HNC qualifications in Make-Up Artistry. They teach you makeup through the eras as well glamour and editorial makeup. What would be a good place to get makeup like that done? Any of the makeup counters in shops such as Harvey Nichols or Jenners. Lots of brands specialise in differnet areas. Its good to check with the artist before your appointment, as it gives them time to refresh their knowlege on the style of makeup you’re requesting. Would you recommend any products that are ‘ust haves’ for the 60s look? Probably a white crayon to get that doll eye Twiggy look and also a good liquid eyeliner for that heavy flick to achieve the iconic 60s vibe. There are lots of brands that you can go for, I highly recommend the NYX eye crayon in the shade ‘milk’ for the perfect white lid. When it comes to liner, everyone has their own preference so the best thing to do it try out a few and see what works best for you. For some starters the Mac Fluidline Pen liner is easy to use. Other options you can go for would be a gel liner with a brush or a liquid.
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ADOPTED BY MODS article : molly anthoney
in 2016 pop art is still as current as ever , making re - appearances in contemporary art culture and continuing to inspire society . peter blake , an icon in the pop art movement colloborated with scotlands own creative landmark , the dovecot studios to bring his pop art masterpieces back to life in celebration of his 80 th birthday and to mark a century of creativity at the dovecot studios . The Dovecot studios in Edinburgh is a world renowned producer of hand woven tapestry. With a century long heritage of design, making and collaboration with leading, international artists - the studio produces’ extraordinary works of art, displayed across the globe.
The Pop-Art movement arose in the late 50’s, but really began to grow and establish itself during the swinging sixties. The movement was built upon a foundation of fascination with pop culture, celebration of everyday objects turned the commonplace into icons.
Celebrating its 100th year in business in 2015, the studios were honoured to receive a commission from Sir Peter Blake marking not only this iconic milestone for the company, but also the artists 80th birthday as well.
Pop Art was looked at as a ‘cultural revolution’ led by activists, thinkers and artists who took it upon themselves to search for different ways to create and change the way society looked at the world.
The commision was to create a collection of 4 signed limited edition tapestries. The rainbow, star, target and heart symbols were all selected by the Dovecot from Blakes’ vast catalogue of iconic artwork, representative of the pop-art style that Sir Peter Blake led in the 60s.
This was extremely influential, especially to the youths of the time and pushed society to break boundaries and rebel. This ultimately resulted in the creation of the Youth Rebellion of the sixties, forming different styles, trends and lifestyles.
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Sir Peter Blake is an iconic English pop artist, best known for creating the album cover for the Beatles’ album, ‘Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band’. Other well known creations of his include the cover of the Band Aid single ‘Do they know its Christmas?’ and the 2012 Brit Award statuette. Blake is considered to be a prominent figure in the pop art movement. In 1961 he designed a piece which he named ‘The First Real Target’. This design became one of the most well known logos in British youth culture, after it was adopted by Mods as their ‘logo’.
During the project, Blake worked closely with the artists in the studio to pick out suitable colours for the design. It was essential that the correct colours were picked for the collecion, in order to heighten the likeness of the tapestries to Blakes’ original paintings.
“ALBUM COVERS ARE LIKE ANY OTHER VEHICLE, THEY ARE A MEANS OF ILLUSTRATING A STORY.”
The target icon is one featured in the Dovecot commission. The regular appearances that Pop Art makes in todays society shows how influential a movement it was. It is one of the most recognisable styles of modern art, all across the world.
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Whilst weaving the first edition collection, master weaver Naomi Robertson developed an individual approach for the series, using cotton in single colour blends to mirror the flat graphic style of Blakes’ iconic artwork.
Each collection is made up of 4 squares, each featuring a different icon. Each square measures 30 x 30cm and took roughly 5 days to weave. The tapestries are only available to buy as a set, 4 squares, and costs £6000 per collection.
Q&A naomi robertson , master weaver at the dovecot studios and the artist behind the peter blake collections , answers some quickfire questions on the project , sir peter blake himself , art and the sixties era . What was your favourite part about the Peter Blake tapestry project? The strong graphic element and the bright bold colours used in the design. What icon was your favourite to weave? The target- it was also the most difficult, circles are really challenging in tapestry so it was a great sense of achievement when I perfected it. Is this the first time you’ve worked with Sir Peter Blake? Yes Is this the first time you’ve ever woven a pop-art inspired piece? No, I have woven on an Eduardo Paolizzi tapestry in the 1990’s. What was your favourite art trend of the sixties? Pop art Are there any artists from the 1960s which have inspired you? Andy Warhol, Eduardo Paolozzi, Claus Oldenburg and Roy Lichtenstein Do you prefer weaving your own designs or other artists? Both, they are quite different disciplines. When you are weaving someone else’s design you have to consider every mark, intentional or not, and decide if it is important to the design. You also have to capture the artists hand in the piece of work. When weaving your own work it is more obvious and instinctive as to what design decisions to make. Who would you say is the most influential artist to come out of the sixties? Andy Warhol was probably the most famous artist in the Pop Art culture to come out of the sixties. What was your favourite fashion trend of the 60s, (e.g. mod rocker etc) Definitely Mods, I loved the whole Mary Quant style of fashion How do you see sir Peter Blake’s work influence current artists? I can’t say what influence he has had on other artists but he was producing his work at the same time as The Mod culture was born and his Target symbol was adopted by the Mods What was the main purpose of doing the tapestry project? The tapestry was part of our studios centenary celebrations, we chose two projects to work on to mark our 100 years. We chose this design as it was very iconic of Sir Peter Blakes work. Do you find art important in the shaping of youth culture? Yes, I think it is one of many influences on youth culture. I think POP art may have been more so than other genres of art as it is more commercial and easier to relate to.
dont let the music die
pat mcglynn
from the
bay city rollers
tells us about growing up in a decade of dynamic change and inspiration.
text karoline laursen
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E pochal . I conic . R emembered . T hese are three words that characterize the 1960 s brilliantly . T his defining decade gave
us
liberating
fashion
as
well as music that made parents worried crazy . in
and
young
people
go
D espite their fame peaking 1970 s , the B ay C ity
the
R ollers
was a band established
in this dynamic decade .
“Tam said I was a good looking guy, had the right look and style and wondered would I like to join one of his bands. Eventually this led to me being asked to join the Bay City Rollers.” The style and fashion choices of McGlynn in particular were influenced by the 1960s’ subcultural trends. Considering himself a ‘Rocker’, McGlynn wore leather jackets and jeans and grew his hair long to enhance the rocker identity. This distinctive looks is an iconic vibe that never really
today has been inspired by these iconic artists in one way or another.” Artists such as Jake Bugg, AllahLas and Band Of Horses bring an interesting 60s vibe to the modern music scene; some of which he recommends us to listen too. “Every artist is influenced by someone.” he explains. “Listen to music from era’s such as the 60s. These decades defined Pop.” When asked where about in Scotland we could find a 60s vibe, McGlynn recommended The Jazz Bar in Edinburgh, which
“Every artist is influenced by someone but try and have an open mind and listen to bands from era’s such as the 60s” Aged 15, guitarist Patrick James McGlynn, began to develop an interest and fascination in music. Growing up, he found himself under the influence of exceptional musicians with the likes of The Beatles, The Rolling Stones and Pink Floyd as inspiration. His interest in music was not something he wished to pursue for a living. However, in 1974 this changed when he was introduced to music manager, Tam Scott.
dies. As McGlynn explains, “All of these trends have evolved over the decades and are still widely used by bands today, but they all started in the 60s.”
he considers to have a retro atmosphere. He also suggested us to visit old record shops such as Vinyl Villians in Edinburgh. “They have a massive selection of music from the 60s and 70s which can be McGlynn believes that the 60s heard from the minute you enter.” has undoubtably, left memorable footprint on the creative industry The huge impact the 1960s had like no other era. As with fashion on Bay City Rollers member Pat trends, music gets recycled, reused McGlynn is certainly not to be and reinterpreted. questioned. How the 60s will continue to inspire and affect future “It all started with Elvis and The generations is yet to be discovered. Beatles”, McGlynn says. “The majority of contemporary music
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QUADROPHENIA NEW GENERATIONS OF YOUTH WILL ALWAYS BE ABLE TO CONNECT WITH THIS EVOCATIVE FILM. AN INTELLECTUAL FILM FOR THE BOLD IN US.
Youth is a constant battlefield.
We see the character of Jimmy, a young man who decides to quit his job and lead a different lifestyle.The film is set in the mid 60s and focuses on cults of mod men. Jimmy is most alive at night time and soon becomes involved in a dangerous lifestyle. As we follow the film we notice that Jimmy becomes reliant on this lifestyle and is restless as he constantly wants a buzz. The styling feautured in the movie comes across as edgy and bold, the characters identities are succesfully portrayed through unique mod looks. It is clear the group is rebellious and tests societies patience through their bold behaviour.
The mods take a trip to Brighton where Jimmy forges a relationship with the privilleged member of the group ‘Ace face’ played by the actor Sting. Whilst in Brighton a violent scene shows the Mods and the Rockers aggressive, blunt attitudes towards each other. Jimmy starts to realise over time that his life follows more purpose when he meets a town local Steph. After a series of let downs he returns to Brighton to resolve issues. The movie is timeless and shows when Britain was at the height of the youthquakers movement.
Other highly acclaimed films which have a youthful feel and look to them are Trainspotting and Tommy.
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GENERATION YOUTH SOUNDTRACK the who
My Generation (1965)
jimmi hendrix
All Along The Watch Tower (1968)
the animals
House Of The Rising Sun (1964)
simon & garfunkle
The Sound Of Silence (1964)
the kingsmen
Louie Louie (1963)
janelle monae ft grimes Venus Fly (2015)
allah-las
Catamaran (2012)
jake bugg
Two Fingers (2012)
band of horses
No One’s Gonna Love You (2007)
red hot chilli peppers Snow
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THE
MOD
ROCKER
IS
REAL