E D I T O R ’S NOTE
Contributors; By content HW AD Molly Antoney, Henry Clark & Heather Anna Lupita Backcover Henry Clark Photoshoot layout 1 Sarah Woolley
Sometimes it can be very easy to lose focus. One little thing can
throw you off balance. As many of us would agree, teenagers go through many emotions as it is a pivotal moment of discovery in their lives. The advice we are given about the future can be uncertain. Which way is the best path? Fashion amongst many other creative industries plays a vital role in how we see our world and what we feel must be changed to fit society today. Film and music will always be a legacy to the world of fashion in which it plays a fundamental role in times that we have lived through. This 2017 Spring Summer Dazed issue is based on 60s youth. The most important role was to test how the world interprets fashion. As a group we have experimented with several shoots trying to achieve our perfect idea of a youth; mods and rockers style. For our cover we came up with the idea of using bold and striking lighting. The process was simple, the more research and experimentation we did helped us understand the unique approach which Dazed carries out. Managing to find the right aesthetic can be a challenge however as a group we worked together to try and produce a magazine which we could look back on and be proud of what we created.
Styling Sarah Woolley Interview Karoline Laursen & Niamh Donaldson Interview on makeup Natalia Kalinowska Film review & playlist Henry Clark Q&A Molly Anthoney Layout for Photoshoot 2 Molly Anthony Interview 3 Molly Anthoney & Sarah Woolley Advertisement Karoline Laursen & Niamh Donaldson
Editor - Heather Anna Lupita Sub Editor - Henry Clark
Photoshoots produced as a group
JUST WING IT ONE OF THE KEY ELEMENTS OF RECREATING A 60’S LOOK IS THE STRIKING MAKEUP THAT THEY USED TO WEAR. ABBEY LOUISE SMITH, A FORMER MAKEUP ARTIST WHO HAS WORKED FOR THE LIKES OF MAC AND LAURA MRECIER, TALKED TO US ABOUT THE INFLUENCE OF 60S STYLE ON CONTEMPORARY MAKEUP, POPULAR STYLES TODAY AND TECHNIQUES AND ADVICE ON HOW TO ACHIEVE THE PERFECT 60S CUT CREASE RECREATION.
What is the most common look people ask you to create with their makeup? There is a couple but some I would say the most popular requests and for the perfect foundation, the perfect red lipstick and the perfect winged liner. People usually ask for that one thing they find difficult to do themselves to learn and improve their skills. Have you ever been asked to do a Twiggy or 60s inspired makeup look? If so, for what occasion? A couple of people i have worked on have asked for a look with 60s inspired features, its mostly younger people, looking for a more dramtic look. Customers with a smaller eye shape often as for the twiggy style makeup, a cut crease, because it opens up the eye. When you put a lighter colour in the waterline and create a darker crease in the lid - it gives the illusion of a bigger eye. Would you say people like to experiment with colour or do they prefer to stick to neutrals? When I worked for Laura Mercier, the customers prefered to stick with neutral, more natural shades. During my time at MAC, the clients I worked with liked to experiment with colour. It very much depends on the personality of the client and the look they are trying to achieve. If they were going for a 60s look, it is highly likely that there would be a lot of colour involved. Have you ever been inspired by 60s makeup yourself? I love Twiggy look and I love the cut crease and the sweeping false lashes. Again as I said, it opens up the eye which means its quite flattering on most people. What makeup trend would you say it still current that was popular in the 60s? I would say the heavy crease and the cut crease is coming back. Just the definition of the crease in general really to open up the eye and make the eye look bigger as that is the look everyone is going for now. When trying to achieve a 60s inspired look, would feature would you recommend to focus on? Both eyes and lips are actually as important as each other. You can play them up and play them down depending on what colours you’re using and the complexion of the client. If somebody has got a smaller lip shape, its better to use a neutral lip colour and to exaggerate the eyes to attract attention to they eyes. Again, f they have great lips then use a brighter lip colour to exaggerate them and a more toned down eye.
Do you know of any course or classes that you would recommend to learn 60s makeup? You can get specialsed courses with individual artists. They offer them in makeup salons and studios such as Kerry McMillan or Jamie Genevieve, both trained Scottish Make-Up artists who offer oneto-one lessions. You could also request a 60s inspired look if you went to a makeup counter such as MAC or Urban Decay. However, if you have a deep interest in makeup, Edinburgh College offer HND or HNC qualifications in Make-Up Artistry. They teach you makeup through the eras as well glamour and editorial makeup. What would be a good place to get makeup like that done? Any of the makeup counters in shops such as Harvey Nichols or Jenners. Lots of brands specialise in differnet areas. Its good to check with the artist before your appointment, as it gives them time to refresh their knowlege on the style of makeup you’re requesting. Would you recommend any products that are ‘ust haves’ for the 60s look? Probably a white crayon to get that doll eye Twiggy look and also a good liquid eyeliner for that heavy flick to achieve the iconic 60s vibe. There are lots of brands that you can go for, I highly recommend the NYX eye crayon in the shade ‘milk’ for the perfect white lid. When it comes to liner, everyone has their own preference so the best thing to do it try out a few and see what works best for you. For some starters the Mac Fluidline Pen liner is easy to use. Other options you can go for would be a gel liner with a brush or a liquid.
ADOPTED BY MODS article : molly anthoney
in 2016 pop art is still as current as ever , making re - appearances in contemporary art culture and continuing to inspire society . peter blake , an icon in the pop art movement colloborated with scotlands own creative landmark , the dovecot studios to bring his pop art masterpieces back to life in celebration of his 80 th birthday and to mark a century of creativity at the dovecot studios . The Dovecot studios in Edinburgh is a world renowned producer of hand woven tapestry. With a century long heritage of design, making and collaboration with leading, international artists - the studio produces’ extraordinary works of art, displayed across the globe.
The Pop-Art movement arose in the late 50’s, but really began to grow and establish itself during the swinging sixties. The movement was built upon a foundation of fascination with pop culture, celebration of everyday objects turned the commonplace into icons.
Celebrating its 100th year in business in 2015, the studios were honoured to receive a commission from Sir Peter Blake marking not only this iconic milestone for the company, but also the artists 80th birthday as well.
Pop Art was looked at as a ‘cultural revolution’ led by activists, thinkers and artists who took it upon themselves to search for different ways to create and change the way society looked at the world.
The commision was to create a collection of 4 signed limited edition tapestries. The rainbow, star, target and heart symbols were all selected by the Dovecot from Blakes’ vast catalogue of iconic artwork, representative of the pop-art style that Sir Peter Blake led in the 60s.
This was extremely influential, especially to the youths of the time and pushed society to break boundaries and rebel. This ultimately resulted in the creation of the Youth Rebellion of the sixties, forming different styles, trends and lifestyles.
Sir Peter Blake is an iconic English pop artist, best known for creating the album cover for the Beatles’ album, ‘Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band’. Other well known creations of his include the cover of the Band Aid single ‘Do they know its Christmas?’ and the 2012 Brit Award statuette. Blake is considered to be a prominent figure in the pop art movement. In 1961 he designed a piece which he named ‘The First Real Target’. This design became one of the most well known logos in British youth culture, after it was adopted by Mods as their ‘logo’.
During the project, Blake worked closely with the artists in the studio to pick out suitable colours for the design. It was essential that the correct colours were picked for the collecion, in order to heighten the likeness of the tapestries to Blakes’ original paintings.
“ALBUM COVERS ARE LIKE ANY OTHER VEHICLE, THEY ARE A MEANS OF ILLUSTRATING A STORY.”
The target icon is one featured in the Dovecot commission. The regular appearances that Pop Art makes in todays society shows how influential a movement it was. It is one of the most recognisable styles of modern art, all across the world.
Whilst weaving the first edition collection, master weaver Naomi Robertson developed an individual approach for the series, using cotton in single colour blends to mirror the flat graphic style of Blakes’ iconic artwork.
Each collection is made up of 4 squares, each featuring a different icon. Each square measures 30 x 30cm and took roughly 5 days to weave. The tapestries are only available to buy as a set, 4 squares, and costs £6000 per collection.
Q&A naomi robertson , master weaver at the dovecot studios and the artist behind the peter blake collections , answers some quickfire questions on the project , sir peter blake himself , art and the sixties era . What was your favourite part about the Peter Blake tapestry project? The strong graphic element and the bright bold colours used in the design. What icon was your favourite to weave? The target- it was also the most difficult, circles are really challenging in tapestry so it was a great sense of achievement when I perfected it. Is this the first time you’ve worked with Sir Peter Blake? Yes Is this the first time you’ve ever woven a pop-art inspired piece? No, I have woven on an Eduardo Paolizzi tapestry in the 1990’s. What was your favourite art trend of the sixties? Pop art Are there any artists from the 1960s which have inspired you? Andy Warhol, Eduardo Paolozzi, Claus Oldenburg and Roy Lichtenstein Do you prefer weaving your own designs or other artists? Both, they are quite different disciplines. When you are weaving someone else’s design you have to consider every mark, intentional or not, and decide if it is important to the design. You also have to capture the artists hand in the piece of work. When weaving your own work it is more obvious and instinctive as to what design decisions to make. Who would you say is the most influential artist to come out of the sixties? Andy Warhol was probably the most famous artist in the Pop Art culture to come out of the sixties. What was your favourite fashion trend of the 60s, (e.g. mod rocker etc) Definitely Mods, I loved the whole Mary Quant style of fashion How do you see sir Peter Blake’s work influence current artists? I can’t say what influence he has had on other artists but he was producing his work at the same time as The Mod culture was born and his Target symbol was adopted by the Mods What was the main purpose of doing the tapestry project? The tapestry was part of our studios centenary celebrations, we chose two projects to work on to mark our 100 years. We chose this design as it was very iconic of Sir Peter Blakes work. Do you find art important in the shaping of youth culture? Yes, I think it is one of many influences on youth culture. I think POP art may have been more so than other genres of art as it is more commercial and easier to relate to.
ROCK A BYE fashion photoshoot inspired by the
60 s ROCK
culture and style
dont let the music die
pat mcglynn
from the
bay city rollers
tells us about growing up in a decade of dynamic change and inspiration.
text karoline laursen
“Tam said I was a good looking E pochal . I conic . R emembered . guy, had the right look and style T hese are three words that and wondered would I like to join characterize the 1960 s one of his bands. Eventually this brilliantly . T his defining decade led to me being asked to join the gave us liberating fashion as Bay City Rollers.” well as music that made parents worried
and
young
people
go
The style and fashion choices D espite their fame peaking of McGlynn in particular in the 1970 s , the B ay C ity were influenced by the 1960s’ R ollers was a band established subcultural trends. Considering in this dynamic decade . himself a ‘Rocker’, McGlynn wore leather jackets and jeans and grew his hair long to enhance the rocker identity. This distinctive looks is crazy .
majority of contemporary music today has been inspired by these iconic artists in one way or another.” Artists such as Jake Bugg, AllahLas and Band Of Horses bring an interesting 60s vibe to the modern music scene; some of which he recommends us to listen too. “Every artist is influenced by someone.” he explains. “Listen to music from era’s such as the 60s. These decades defined Pop.” When asked where about in Scotland we could find a 60s vibe, McGlynn recommended
“Every artist is influenced by someone but try and have an open mind and listen to bands from era’s such as the 60s” an iconic vibe that never really dies. As McGlynn explains, “All of these trends have evolved over the decades and are still widely used by bands today, but they all started in Growing up, he found himself the 60s.” under the influence of exceptional musicians with the likes of The McGlynn believes that the 60s Beatles, The Rolling Stones has undoubtably, left memorable and Pink Floyd as inspiration. footprint on the creative industry His interest in music was not like no other era. As with fashion something he wished to pursue for trends, music gets recycled, reused a living. and reinterpreted. Aged 15, guitarist Patrick James McGlynn, began to develop an interest and fascination in music.
The Jazz Bar in Edinburgh, which he considers to have a retro atmosphere. He also suggested us to visit old record shops such as Vinyl Villians in Edinburgh. “They have a massive selection of music from the 60s and 70s which can be heard from the minute you enter.”
The huge impact the 1960s had on Bay City Rollers member Pat McGlynn is certainly not to be questioned. How the 60s will continue to inspire and affect future However, in 1974 this changed “It all started with Elvis and The generations is yet to be discovered. when he was introduced to music Beatles”, McGlynn says. “The manager, Tam Scott.
QUADROPHENIA NEW GENERATIONS OF YOUTH WILL ALWAYS BE ABLE TO CONNECT WITH THIS EVOCATIVE FILM. AN INTELLECTUAL FILM FOR THE BOLD IN US.
Youth is a constant battlefield.
We see the character of Jimmy, a young man who decides to quit his job and lead a different lifestyle.The film is set in the mid 60s and focuses on cults of mod men. Jimmy is most alive at night time and soon becomes involved in a dangerous lifestyle. As we follow the film we notice that Jimmy becomes reliant on this lifestyle and is restless as he constantly wants a buzz. The styling feautured in the movie comes across as edgy and bold, the characters identities are succesfully portrayed through unique mod looks. It is clear the group is rebellious and tests societies patience through their bold behaviour.
The mods take a trip to Brighton where Jimmy forges a relationship with the privilleged member of the group ‘Ace face’ played by the actor Sting. Whilst in Brighton a violent scene shows the Mods and the Rockers aggressive, blunt attitudes towards each other. Jimmy starts to realise over time that his life follows more purpose when he meets a town local Steph. After a series of let downs he returns to Brighton to resolve issues. The movie is timeless and shows when Britain was at the height of the youthquakers movement.
Other highly acclaimed films which have a youthful feel and look to them are Trainspotting and Tommy.
GENERATION YOUTH SOUNDTRACK 1.
The Who - My Generation (1965)
2
Jimmi Hendrix - All Along The Watch Tower (1968)
3.
The Animals - House Of The Rising Sun (1964)
4.
Simon & Garfunkle - The Sound Of Silence (1964)
5.
The Kingsmen - Louie Louie (1963)
6.
Janelle Monae Ft Grimes - Venus Fly (2015)
7.
Allah-Las - Catamaran (2012)
8.
Jake Bugg - Two Fingers (2012)
9.
Band Of Horses - No One’s Gonna Love You (2007)
10.
Red hot chilli peppers - Snow (Hey oh) (2006)
THE
MOD
ROCKER
IS
REAL