A/W 2015-16 Molly Savident
A/W 2015-16
This booklet focuses on the forecast trends for women’s wear Autumn / Winter 2015-16. The first part booklet features two trends, Passionate Patterns and Elaborate Elements which are then broken down into specific sub categories and examined in more detail. The second part of the booklet focuses on the Elements trend and its relationship in and with the social media. Each trend is looked at in detail and features the motivations that cause consumers to purchase these collections, along with the brands that would potentially link and feature these trends in their own clothing lines. The booklet features primary research gathered from street style and street art along with secondary research gathered from licensed trend forecasting websites such as WGSN. Each chapter features a colour palette, inspiration, an explanation and example for each trend.
Contents
1 A/W Trend 1 - Passionate Patterns 2 A/W Trend 2 - Elaborate Elements 3
Trend 2 and Social Media
A/W 2015-16
Patterns, Patterns are something you find everywhere, where you look, stand, or walk. Whether its in your house, in your garden or the other side of the world, you will always notice them. Not all are man made, patterns are created in the sky, in the grass or in the snow by a simple movement made by the earth its self. This trend focuses on two patterns in particular which happen to be man made but could be classed as natural if you really look into it. The first trend is ‘Acentric Asia’, this trend is very much a cultural trend with inspiration gathered from countries such as India and Africa with the focus being the bright vibrant colours and striking abstract patterns. The second trend is ‘Fancy Florals’ which could be classed as natural patterns due to the growing of flowers and the environment. This trend focuses on how flowers are used in different ways to make different patterns, from full and busy to simple and singular.
Passionate Patterns
1
A/W Trend 1 - Passionate Patterns
2
Subcategory - Acentric Asia
3
Subcategory - The Fancy Florals
Acentric Asia
Countries in Asia such as India are very well known for their bright, vibrant colours and their beautiful hand crafted patterns. There are a number of traditional dresses in India today with regional variations, such sari, ghagra choli or dhoti, which date back to ancient times. (Hindu Online, 2010. (Online) Acentric Asia is inspired by Eastern World cultures and countries, its flamboyant use of colours and abstract patterns have encouraged designers to focus more on different cultures to their own and introduce them into today’s world of fashion. As a result of this, these abstract patterns have hit the catwalk for A/W 15-16 with the focus being over the shoulder shawls, over sized coats and matching two pieces / co-ords.
Fig 3 Stella Jean A/W 15/16 2015
Fig 1 Sundara 2014 Fig 2 Burberry Prorsum A/W 15/16 2015
Fig 4 Prefall 2014: Just Cavalli 2013
Fig 5 Versace Fall 2015 RTW 2015
Acentric Asia is a very bold, bright trend which constantly reflects its culture and where the trend originated from. This gives consumers the motivation to become involved and follow this trend as it shows they have a sense of culture and travel knowledge. It reflects consumers interest in tribes and tribal colours based around he world. Also allows them to be admired for their historic nature, the simplicity of not follow futuristic trends, instead going back in time and bringing history back to life. Both Roberto Cavalli and Versace are well known for the use of bright colours and abstract patterns. Both reflect the same feel of unique design and creativity that the clothing and trends in Eastern World feature. Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood would also be ones to incorporate this trend into their collections due to their use of weird and wonderful patterns, shapes and colour combinations.
Fig 6 Woodside Blossom 2015
The Fancy Florals
Fig 7 La Vida Bida 2015
Fancy Florals; Floral patterns is a trend that never seems to die, it follows in a vicious circle. The trend becomes the hight of fashion, is pushed out by another trend and then re-introduced, we simply can’t get rid of it. Once again florals is baring its head for A/W 15-16, this time as a combination of hand worked embroidery inspired by vintage pieces, two tone print work and floral designs inspired by famous paintings and rich tapestries, signifying references to more historical patterns. The colours are a combination of two tone, midnight colours such as Navy and Black giving monochrome a refreshing new look along with Bright vibrant colours inspired by blooming gardens and festival vibes. Fig 8 Spring Snowdrops 2015
Fig 9 Valentino Pre Fall Multicoloured Bohemium Looks 2015
Fig 10 Ted Baker Izzie Oil Paining Floral 2015
Flowers are natural, beautiful aspects of the earth that reflect happiness and boldness. This gives consumers the inspiration to wear flower filled items because it reflects a confident and beautiful personality. It allows consumers to be admired for bringing light and life into peoples lives along with courage and bravery as flowers represent a feeling of peace and tranquillity. It suggests consumers have a sense of time and patients which reflect the time and care it takes a flower to grown and bloom.
Fig 11 Ted Baker A/W2013 Lookbook | Fall Preview 2013
Floral fashion are statement pieces, almost each brand that incorporates flower work into their garments is recognisable from a mile off and easily distinguished from one another. Brands such as Ted Baker and Liberty are especially well known for their unique flower pattern therefore would certainly be brands to incorporate new and adapted flower trends into their collections. Valentino and Balenciaga are also known for incorporating different patterns and shapes into both their work so would again be brands to adapt this floral trend into their own work.
A/W 2015-16
Elements, Elements is a broad term used in science for a number of different things such as weather, substances of the earth and substances in a scientific experiment (The Free Dictionary, (Online). In terms of fashion and trends ‘Elements’ focus on the weather and the earth its self. The first trend is ‘The Moon Walker’, a trend that has a loose link with earth and that’s space. Space is the nearvacuum extending between the planets and stars, containing small amounts of gas and dust. (Oxford Dictionaries (Online). However this trend focuses more on the Si-Fi side of things such as iridescent themes, sparkles and relationships with out-of-thisworld creatures. The second trend is ‘The Alluring Atmosphere’ which focuses on the natural elements within earth itself such as the movements of clouds, the falling of rain, the creation of mountains and all the patterns made by nature changing. Its the focus of subtle and natural colours that haven’t been tampered or changed by Man and how Earth is such a beautiful place when its left alone.
Elaborate Elements
1 A/W Trend 2 - Elaborate Elements 2 Subcategory - The Moon Walker 3
Subcategory - Frozen Trend
Fig 13 Holographic Clutch 2013
Fig 12 Hugo Boss 2013
The moon walker trend is one that completely off the spectrum and speaks for its self. The initial inspiration for this trend is fairly recognisable, Space. Space is the near-vacuum extending between the planets and stars, containing small amounts of gas and dust (Oxford Dictionaries (Online). However this trend in particular focuses on the Si-Fi, ‘out-of-this-world’ concept. It takes shape and style inspiration from foreign creatures seen in films and documentaries such as aliens. It focuses on iridescent moving colours that sparkle and glisten in the light. It also features bright, vibrant colours that easily outshine others and simply cannot be missed. The futuristic trend for A/W 15-16 highlights a new idea that embraces the modern edge of the future. Its a combinations of glistening iridescent colours in fabrics, layered with dichroic foiled finishes to give that futuristic effect along with psychedelic dyes and overdose of glitter and gems (Dichoric, (Online).
Fig 14 Nina Ricci S/S 2011
The Moon Walker
Fig 15 Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty Exhibition London 2015
Futuristic fashion was once something you’d only find on TV or in children’s fantasy magazines, but today it has hit the catwalk. As the world is becoming more and more digital, so is the fashion. The moon walker trend is bold and exuberant, this motivated consumers to follow the trend as its allows them to express and show their sense of modernness and technology. It also allows them to reflect their off-the-wall and unique personality and to be admired for their boldness.
Fig 16 Maison Martin Margiela at Paris Fashion Week Spring 2009
Alexander McQueen is renowned for creating crazy, unique collections that are inspired by the wackiest of ideas such as Jack the Ripper and Edward Sissorhands (The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2011. (Online). He likes to make a statement and stand out, therefore would certainly adapt this trend to suit his brand and image. Maison Margiela again is also known for trends and collections don’t always fit with everyone else. He has a desire to be different therefore ‘The Moon Walker’ could certainly be modified to work for him and his brand.
Fig 17 Frozen Lanscape 2014
Fig 19 Frost Patterns 2010
The winter weather, Frost trend is inspired by natural movements made by the earth. Frost is defined as the formation of small white ice crystals on the ground or other surfaces when the temperature falls below freezing (Dictionary, 2007. (Online). A/W 15-16 is inspired by the earth’s natural behaviour and the beautiful outcomes created as a result. The trend is the combination of simple yet detailed patterns reflecting elements of the earth such and icy colour palettes such as the blue spectrum, whites and greys to create a calming feel.
Fig 18 Atmospheric Form 2015
Fig 20 Marc Jacobs 2009
Frozen trend is a trend that focuses on the world in its natural form and as a result the beautiful patterns and shapes that are created. This trend reflects consideration and care for the environment and acknowledges its beauty which motivates consumers as it shows encouragement for environmental awareness and respect. As the colours are subtle and the clothing style is quite conservative in some respects this allows consumers to show they’re sophisticated and elegant. The use of combining alternative fabrics together allows consumers to voice their liberal personality and to create an element of shock.
Fig 21 Ralph Lauren vintage-inspired wedding dress 2015
Fig 22 Mint Velvet 2015
Mint Velvet is a classic example of the use of subtle colour palettes and combining alternative fabrics together. The brand is renowned for the use of colours on the blue spectrum and creating attractive sophisticated garments. This trend would certainly fit into the Mint Velvet collection Nicely. Marc Jacobs is another designer that would incorporate this trend into their collections following the similar lines of their S/S 2014 collection. Ralph Lauren is noted for his high quality sophisticated items therefore would easily be able to work this trend.
A/W 2015-16
This part of the booklet focuses on Elaborate Elements and the Media. It looks at the origin of the trend and where it first came from. It then goes on to talk about how where trend is written about, for example in Magazines or Newspapers. The third part focuses on how it as written about, the terminology used and what brands are associated with Elaborate Elements. Finally the last part focuses on the representation of this trend in the streets and features both primary and secondary imagery of street style and street art.
Social Media
1 2 3 4 5
Elaborate Elements and Social Media Trend Origin Featured Magazines Brand Association Street Style
Fig 23 Original Prints A/W 15/16 – Retro Futuristic 2015
Fig 24 How Global Warming Enhanced Glacial Melt to Expand Sea Ice in Antarctica. 2013
Fig 25 Marcos Vasquez Earth 2015
Trend Origin This trend originates from a number of small things that link together to form one main origin. This trend originates from the result of humans actions towards the earth. Everyday the dangers of global warming are increasing and damaging our planet and atmosphere as we speak causing an increase in extreme weather changes (Natural Resources Defence Council (Online). This trend takes a look at the world in a positive light, focusing on the beauty and natural elegance of the earth’s actions such as the crystallising of frost of shining of stars in the planet. It appreciates the world for what it is and demonstrates that the world should be left alone. Leading on from this, Si-Fi and ‘end-of-the-world’ films are also the inspiration for this trend. The dangers caused by humans in films such as ‘2012’ (International Movie Database, 2009 (Online) and ‘The Day After Tomorrow’ (International Movie Database, 2004 (Online) then lead to drastic weather changes causing extreme effects on the world and peoples lives. Another inspiration for this trend is focusing on the unknown, and peoples take on things outside our atmosphere and space. What is beyond the Earth? What will the earth be like in 200 years time? What is in space? The inspiration comes from the interest in whether there live out on planets such as Mars and whether in hundreds of years time there will be an human species encounter.
Fig 26 Nars Audacious Mascara 2015
Featured Magazines For trends to have a chance of succeeding and making a profit, brands and companies have to make themselves well known. Advertising is the best form to allow this to happen. Many brands, companies and designers use advertising to show consumers their new lines and designs as well as getting themselves out there. For fashion brands, unsurprisingly, fashion magazines are the best type to allow this to happen. For the best success brands aim high and pay extortionate prices to get themselves in magazines such as Vogue and Elle, this is exactly what people have done with the Elements trend. Elements has recently featured in a number of Magazines including the October issue 2015 Elle and the September Issue of Vogue, the most iconic of them all. Both the magazines reflect this trend in a positive upbeat light with the use of attractive bright colour schemes to draw the consumer in. The magazines use topic related language such as ‘Ice’ and ‘Beam’ to describe the trend and headings such as ‘First Look’ to make consumers feel as though their the first to be targeted and the first people to see and be involved with the latest trend.
Fig 27 First Look Accessories 2015
Fig 28 The Shearling Collection 2015
Fig 29
Fig 29 & 30 Alexander McQueen 2010 Womens Collection 2009 One of the main aims brands follow is keeping up with trends and staying on top of the constant changing world of Fashion. Each trend goes through a cycle called ‘Trend Life Cycle’ which is sub categorised into 4 sections, Introduction, Growth, Maturity and Decline. Each trend will experience this during their time which could last twenty years or twenty minutes. (Posner, H. 2011. P.90) To keep up-to-date with current fashion, trends and brands use each other as inspiration and guidance on what to come up with and create next. In this case Brands that are associated with Elements are Alexander McQueen, Marc Jacobs and Prada. Alexander Mcqueen is undoubtedly well known for his wild and wacky creations and colours along with his unique inspiration. Both Prada and Marc Jacobs are a little more subtle when in comparison with McQueen but they still associate will with Elements due to the use of the colour Palette and the combination of alternative, unique fabrics.
Fig 31 & 32 Marc Jacobs Spring / Summer Wedding Dress 2010
Brand Association
Fig 33 Prada A/W Millan Fashion Week 2015
Street Style
Fig 35 Futuristic White Dress 2013 Fig 34 Macro Trends Wonderlab Jocelyn 2013 As A/W 2015-16 draws closer, so do the trends. We are now beginning get a gimps of trends on the streets, experienced in person and through social media. To the right are a couple of street style example. Its not only clothing and accessories that are adapting this trend but man made objects too. The 2015 pavilion open from the 25th June to the 18th October was created to celebrate the 15th anniversary of the world-renowned Pavilion commission. The pavilion was designed by Spanish architects selgascano. The award-winning studio, headed by José Selgas and Lucía Cano, is the first Spanish architecture practice to be asked to design the temporary Pavilion on the Serpentine’s lawn in London’s Kensington Gardens. The Pavilion is an amorphous, double-skinned, polygonal structure consisting of panels of a translucent, multi-coloured fluorine-based polymer (ETFE) woven through and wrapped like webbing. This gives it a glass looking effect that appears very different to when you touch it. The pavilion is constantly changing and reflects an iridescent effect which ties in nicely with the ‘Elements’ trend upcoming in today’s fashion world. (Serpentine Galleries, 2015. (Online) The galaxy themed backpack was captured on the London Underground and gives just a little snapshot of what is yet to come!
Fig 37 Primary Imagery Sreet Style - London Underground 2015 Fig 36 Primary Imagery Serpentine Pavilion 2015
A/W 2015-16 In Text References: Dictionary. (2007). Frost. Available: http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/frost. (Accessed August 2015) Hindu Online. (2010). Indian Traditional Costume & Makeup. Available: http://hinduonline.co/ HinduCulture/IndianTraditionalCostume.html. (Accessed July 2015) International Movie Database. (2004). The Day After Tomorrow. Available: http://www.imdb.com/title/ tt0319262/?ref_=nv_sr_1. (Accessed September 2015) International Movie Database. (2009). 2012. Available: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1190080/. (Accessed September 2015) Posner, H. (2011). Research and Planning. In: Peter Jones Marketing Fashion. London: Laurence King Publishing. Page 90. Natural Resources Defence Council. Global Warming. Available: http://www.nrdc.org/globalwarming/. (Accessed September 2015) Oxford Dictionaries. Space. Available: http://www.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/english/space. (Accessed September 2015) Serpentine Galleries. (2015). The Pavilion. Available: http://www.serpentinegalleries.org/exhibitions-events/ serpentine-pavilion-2015. (Accessed September 2015) The Free Dictionary. Elements. Available: http://www.thefreedictionary.com/elements. (Accessed August 2015) The Metropolitan Museum of Art. (2011). Alexander McQueen - Savage Beauty. Available: http://blog. metmuseum.org/alexandermcqueen/coat-jack-the-ripper/. (Accessed September 2015) 3M. Dichoric. Available: http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/architectural-markets/home/glassfinishes/dichroic/. (Accessed September 2015) Bibliography: Barnett, L. (2008). Cavalli Bright. Available: http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2008/06/27/roberto-cavalli-oncolour-and-costings. (Accessed July 2015.) Encylopedia. (2004). Gianni Versace. Available: http://www.encyclopedia.com/topic/Gianni_Versace.aspx. (Accessed July 2015.) Gladwell, M (2015). The Tipping Point. Great Britain: Abacus. Posner, H (2011). Marketing Fashion. London: Laurence King Publishing. Raymond, M (2010). The Trend Forecaster’s Handbook. London: Laurence King Publishing. Vogue. (2015). Ways To Wear Florals, Again. Available: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/trends/2015-springsummer/ways-to-wear-florals-again. (Accessed July 2015.) Wilcox, C (2015). Alexander McQueen. London: V&A Publishing. WGSN. (1998). WGSN. Available: http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/home/. (Accessed July September 2015) Front and Back Image Explanation: Front image reflects confrontation and the beginning of the booklet. The image welcomes you as you’re greeted with someone face on. The back image reflects the end, closing the booklet and leaving as well as the movement on to the next season from A/W to S/S.
References Image References: Figure 1. Monday Fix. Available at: http://jointhebreed.com/news-events/monday-fix-6/ (Accessed July 2015) Figure 2. Sundara. Available at: http://patterncurator.org/2014/08/25/sundara/ (Accessed July 2015) Figure 3. Burberry Prorsum A/W 15/16. Available at: http://blog.patternbank.com/catwalks/page/4/ (Accessed July 2015) Figure 4. Stella Jean A/W 15/16. Available at: http://blog.patternbank.com/milan-fashion-week-womenswear-print-highlights-part-1autumnwinter-201516/ (Accessed July 2015) Figure 5. Prefall 2014. Just Cavalli. Available at: http://anibundel.com/2013/12/03/prefall-2014-just-cavalli/ (Accessed July 2015) Figure 6. Versace Fall 2015 RTW. Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-week-review/11755863/versace-fall-2015-rtw/ (Accessed July 2015) Figure 7. Woodside Blossom. Available at: http://patterncurator.org/2015/06/26/woodside-bloom/ (Accessed July 2015) Figure 8. La Vida Bida. Available at: http://patterncurator.org/2015/06/15/la-vida-biba/ (Accessed July 2015) Figure 9. Spring Snowdrops. Available at: http://www.ultrahighdefinitionwallpapers.com/spring-snowdrops-uhd-wallpapers.html (Accessed July 2015) Figure 10. Valentino Pre Fall Multicoloured Bohemium Looks. Available at: (Accessed July 2015) Figure 11. Ted Baker Izzie Oil Paining Floral. Available at: http://www.masdings.com/item/ted-baker/izzie-oil-painting-floral-dress/7OZ1#. Vg5tLhNViko (Accessed July 2015) Figure 12. Ted Baker A/W2013 Lookbook | Fall Preview. Available at: (Accessed July 2015) Figure 13. Hugo Boss. Available at: http://www.ashleytamarra.com/2013/10/yay-or-hell-naw-iridescent-fashion.html (Accessed July 2015) Figure 14. Holographic Clutch. Available at: http://lookbook.nu/look/5285764-Cameo-The-Label-Mystery-Top-Leather-Quilted (Accessed July 2015) Figure 15. Nina Ricci S/S 2011. Available at: http://chiffonandribbons.tumblr.com/post/74245697462/nina-ricci-ss-2011 (Accessed August 2015) Figure 16. Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty Exhibition London. Available at: http://www.stylelingua.co.uk/2015/05/alexander-mcqueensavage-beauty-exhibition.html (Accessed August 2015) Figure 17. Maison Martin Margiela at Paris Fashion Week. Available at: http://www.livingly.com/runway/Paris+Fashion+Week+Spring+2009/ Maison+Martin+Margiela/Details (Accessed August 2015) Figure 18. Atmospheric Form. Available at: http://blog.patternbank.com/autumnwinter-20162017-trend-forum-at-the-london-textilefair/#more-23895 (Accessed August 2015) Figure 19. Frost Patterns. Available at: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Frost_patterns_1.jpg (Accessed August 2015) Figure 20. Marc Jacobs. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2010/ready-to-wear/marc-jacobs (Accessed September 2015) Figure 21. Ralph Lauren vintage-inspired wedding dress. Available at: http://heavenlyvintagebrides.blogspot.co.uk/2015/03/ralph-lauren-vintageinspired-wedding.html (Accessed September 2015) Figure 22. Mint Velvet. Available at: http://uvuqgwtrke.blogspot.co.uk/2015/04/mint-velvet-clothing.html (Accessed September 2015) Figure 23. Original Prints A/W 15/16 – Retro Futuristic. Available at: http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/content/search/#/ futuristic%2520inspiration (Accessed 2015 September 2015) Figure 24. How Global Warming Enhanced Glacial Melt to Expand Sea Ice in Antarctica. Available at: http://robertscribbler.com/2013/04/03/ how-global-warming-enchanced-glacial-melt-to-expand-sea-ice-in-antarctica/ (Accessed September 2015) Figure 25. Marcos Vasquez Earth. Available at: https://www.emaze.com/@ALFFZOLL/Marcos-Vasquez-earth_science (Accessed September 2015) Figure 26 . Nars (2015) In: Elle October 2015 p.116 (Accessed September 2015) Figure 27. First Look Accessories (2015) In: Elle October 2015 p.107 (Accessed September 2015) Figure 28. The Shearing Collection (2015) In: Vogue September 2015 p.1 (Accessed September 2015) Figure 29. Alexander McQueen 2010 Women’s Collection. Available at: http://o-ze.com/alexander-mcqueen-platos-atlantis/ (Accessed September 2015) Figure 30. Alexander McQueen 2010 Women’s Collection. Available at: http://o-ze.com/alexander-mcqueen-platos-atlantis/ (Accessed September 2015) Figure 31. Marc Jacobs Spring / Summer Wedding Dress. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2010/ready-to-wear/ marc-jacobs (Accessed September 2015) Figure 32. Marc Jacobs Spring / Summer Wedding Dress. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2010/ready-to-wear/ marc-jacobs (Accessed September 2015) Figure 33. Prada A/W Milan Fashion Week. Available at: http://www.24-7retailtherapy.com/2015/08/first-look-at-aw15-fashion-part-3.html (Accessed September 2015) Figure 34. Macro Trends Wonderlab Jocelyn. Available at: (Accessed September 2015) Figure 35. Street style: Futuristic white dress. Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/236650155392522618/ (Accessed September 2015) Figure 36. Own Imagery. Serpentine Pavilion. (Accessed July 2015) Figure 37. Own Imagery. Street Style on London Underground. (Accessed July 2015) Figure 38. Magdalena Frackowiak Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/560487116095456671/ (Accessed September 2015)
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