1 &2. Spring Summer 2016 Campaign (Gucci, 2016)
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Vintage clothing has become very popular in recent years with Oxfam recording a 400% increase in online sales when the charity launched its vintage section (Kasprzak, 2012). As a result fashion brands have mimicked and reworked designs from the past, as is the case for Gucci’s recent collections. Gucci is an “eclectic, contemporary, romantic” fashion brand founded in 1921 and is one of the world’s leading luxury fashion brands (Gucci, no date). In 2015 “Gucci embarked on the next chapter in its history, under the creative direction of Alessandro Michele” (Kering, no date); his vision involves pulling inspiration from many eras simultaneously comparing what he's doing to “Talking in more than one language” (Mower, 2016). As a result of these quirky combinations, his designs stand out in the luxury market. Both Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2017 and Autumn/ Winter 2016 collections were inspired by the past. However, the individual looks took inspiration from a number of different eras.
This look (Figure 1) from Gucci’s Autumn/ Winter collection is an amalgamation of trends from several different eras; “Catherine de’ Medici, and ’70s sport, Renaissance biker, ‘80s Italian and French couture were all mentioned on the creative director Alessandro Michele’s Instagram account (Mower, 2016). He compares what he's doing in terms of juxtaposing trends from different eras to “talking in more than one language”.
3. Gucci A/W 2016 Ready-To-Wear Collection (INDIGITAL, 2016)
The main element of this outfit is the robe, which mimics capes and cardinal robing of the Renaissance (Ellison, 2016). The cape mimics the zornea, which is a cape with wide sleeves and worn by both men and women (Westover, 2012). In addition, the look references the Renaissance through the adaptation of the fashion item most associated with the era, namely the ruff. The look “evolved from the collars of the shirts worn by men underneath their doublets. The collars would have a small decorative ruffle around the top, which would add a bit of visual interest. Gradually this ruffle grew larger, becoming its own independent garment” (Werlin, 2011). This Gucci look has modified the original trend through the joyous blasts of colour (Armstrong, 2016) as the colour of the ruffled top is a vibrant purple.
4. Portrait of Cardinal Alessandro Farnese (Raffaello, 1509) 5. Queen Elizabeth I Darnley Portrait (unknown artist, 1575) 6. Modular Painting (Lichtenstein, 1969)
The Renaissance look has also been given a modern twist through the utterly eccentric juxtapositions; the robe has elements inspired by 1960s Pop Art movement (Armstrong, 2016). Pop Art was hugely influential in the 1960s, for example, many clothes at the time imitated work by the painter Mondrian, as “they were hard-edged, brightly coloured or black and white, and squared-off� (Wilson, 1985). It is clear that this robe has taken inspiration from these elements of Pop Art from the bold turquoise colour to the sharp silhouette and comic book-like aesthetic.
Another notable element of this Gucci look is pair of the loafers. Here Alessandro Michele is referencing the brand’s individual historical trend. According to Trepanier (2015) in 1966 “Gucci saw the popularity of the penny loafer and adapted it with a metal strap across the front in the shape of a horse’s snaffle bit” and “were worn by 1970s businessmen, becoming almost a Wall Street uniform”. This preppy look is a recurring trend in the Autumn/Winter 2016 collection as the target Gucci customer has an eccentric and individual style (Piercy, 2015). Michele has also linked back to the 1970s through the accessories for example, the sunglasses have a strong resemblance to the oversized frames of the decade (Mower, 2016).
7. Gucci A/W 2016 Ready-To-Wear Details (GETTY, 2016) 8. Jodie Foster 1970s (Topshop, 2017) 9. Francis Ford Coppola in Gucci Horsebit Loafers (Bettman/Corbis, 1970)
Looking at Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection it is clear that creative director, Alessandro Michele, was inspired by trends from past eras. He developed an obsession for kitsch antiquities and as a consequence of “filling his eyes with historical and art references” he created an “instinct for costumy looks” (Battista, 2016). This particular outfit appropriates trends from 1970s disco, the glamour of 1950s Hollywood, “bound up with relics of the Renaissance” (Mower, 2016).
10. S/S 2017 ready-to-wear Gucci (Vlamos, 2016)
In terms of the 1950s aspect of the outfit, it is evident that Michele was inspired by the “stylised gowns of the movie capital’s haute days” (Blanks, 2016). The outfit is adorned in thousands of sequins in gold and rich tones much like the dresses that screen goddesses such as Joan Crawford wore. Norman Norell was also famous for popularising these lavishly sequined dresses that “with their slithery, skinny silhouetted became known as mermaid dresses” (Reed, 2012). However, Michele has reworked the past trend to give the Gucci outfit a more modern twist as he has updated the silhouette. The iconic “New Look” created by Christian Dior in the 1950s was known for emphasizing the female form; “key elements were sloping shoulders, narrow waists and full hips” (Reed, 2012). However, the outfit in the Gucci collection has more fluidity to the silhouette as oppose to the figure-hugging look of the 1950s.
11. Suzy Parker Life Magazine cover (Green, 1952) 12. Marilyn Monroe sings for the soldiers in Korea (McKinley, 1954)
13. Chopines (Met Museum, no date) 14. Antea (Pamigianino, 1524)
The outfit also has elements that were inspired by looks from the Renaissance period. This can be seen through platform shoes that the models were wearing, which “echoed French chopines or Venetian calcagnini, footwear favoured by prostitutes” (Battista, 2016). These were worn at the time due to “the necessities of glam streetwalking in a city of floods” and so the shoe “soon became elaborately stylish and beautifully fashioned in the 15th century” (Mower 2016). The shoes featured in the Gucci outfit were adapted to add a more commercial aspect as Michele's calcagnini featured a flat slipper which could be detached to allow the wearer to walk on a flat ballerina shoe (Battista, 2016).
In addition to this, the outfit mirrors the maximalist trend of the Renaissance period through the sequins and metallic tinsel-like fringing (Threads, 2016). Gucci’s look is like that seen in Pamigianino's Antea portrait where “the final look is a result of a perennial addition of details, elements, rich motifs and accessories” (Battista, 2016). Again Michele updated the -trend by incorporating Chinese-inspired motifs like the tiger seen on the skirt. Stansfield (2016) noted that “Michele is a fan of the Far East – earlier this year, for example, he chose to shoot the brand’s AW16 campaign in Tokyo” so naturally he used this interest to modernise his designs.
A final inspiration for this particular outfit was the 1970s. This can be seen through the accessories featured and in the detailing. Oversized glasses with thick frames were a particular trend from the 1970s and singers like Elton John were known for sporting the somewhat outrageous look. Some of his glasses frames were illuminated by miniature flashing lightbulbs (Herald, 1992). The sunglasses featured in the Gucci collection are given a more glamorous twist as instead of featuring lightbulbs they are crystal encrusted (Jones, 2016). Sequins were not only prevalent in the 1950s; Elton John’s 1970s wardrobe also featured glitter bodysuits in garish colours, which was compared to the technicolour world of The Wizard of Oz (Jones, 2016). It is clear that this Gucci outfit with its hordes of sequins and pop of colour has tried to emulate this zany trend. Another trend from the 1970s was the platform shoe, “classics included Chelsea Cobbler platform sandals decorated with bright-coloured leather roses” (Herald, 1992). The shoes featured in the Gucci outfit have clearly been inspired by this as the calcagnini-style platform shoes feature the surprise element of a rose bud–printed insole (Mower, 2016). This decision to feature the roses on the inside of the shoe was an interesting choice as it updated the original 1970s design and gave the product a unique selling point in a world of generically bland products (Mower, 2016).
15. Gucci S/S 2017 Details (INDIGITAL, 2016) 16. Elton John London (GETTY, 1978) 17. Ziggy Stardust (Rock,1972)
On reflection, it is clear that by taking inspiration from a number of historical fashion sources Michele has created an eccentric collection. These designs would appeal to the typical Gucci customer as the brand’s target consumer is experimental and eccentric in the way that they dress (Blanks, 2016). The clothes have been given a contemporary twist from the fabric, to the silhouette and the design detailing but they are underpinned by vintage inspiration. The collection invokes a sense of nostalgia by evoking garments you might be likely find in an eclectic dressing-up box. This aspect adds greater appeal to the collection as the consumer may experience the same sense of excitement as they felt as a child whilst rooting through a dressingup box. It is clear that maintaining history in design is important because rejuvenating past iconic designs adds a new dimension to a contemporary collection.
18. Tiger Drawing (YeDraw, no date)
Armstrong, L. 2016. Every look from the Gucci AW16 catwalk show. [Online]. [Accessed 11 April 2017]. Available from: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/milan-fashion-week/every-lookfrom-the-gucci-aw16-catwalk-show/ Blanks, T. 2016. Following The Gucci-Striped Road To Fashion Oz. [Online]. [Accessed 11 April 2017]. Available from: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/fashion-show-review/just-ingucci-springsummer-2017 Ellison, J. 2016. Gucci AW16 show report Milan Fashion Week .[Online]. [Accessed 11 April 2017]. Available from: https://www.ft.com/content/f5bf4246-daf0-11e5-98fd-06d75973fe09 Gucci, no date. Gucci Website. [Online]. [Accessed 11 April 2017]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/?gclid=CLTcm9e0q9MCFbMy0wody30FjQ&gclsrc=aw.ds&dc lid=CITKq9e0q9MCFRquUQod7skMbQ Herald, J. 1992. Fashions of a decade. The 1970s, New York : Chelsea House Publishers
Jones, J. 2016. Milan fashion week spring/summer 2017: 10 key shows. [Online]. [Accessed 11 April 2017]. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/gallery/2016/sep/24/milanfashion-week-springsummer-2017-10-key-shows-in-pictures Kasprzak, E. 2012. Vintage style: The rise of retro fashion. [Online]. [Accessed 11 April 2017]. Available from: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-17667524 Mower, S. 2016. Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear Gucci. [Online]. [Accessed 11 April 2017]. Available from: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/gucci Mower, S. 2016. Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Gucci. [Online]. [Accessed 11 April 2017]. Available from: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/gucci Piercy, C. 2015. Gucci’s Geek-Chic Beauty Is a Breath of Fresh Air. [Online]. [Accessed 11 April 2017]. Available from: http://www.vogue.com/article/runway-beauty-trends-braids-curls-guccispring-2016-milan-fashion-week Reed, P. 2012. Fifty Fashion Looks that Changed the 1950s London: Design Museum Stansfield, T. 2016. What went down at Gucci’s SS17 show. [Online]. [Acessed 11 April 2017]. Available from: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/33001/1/what-went-down-at-guccis-ss17-show
Threads, 2016. Gucci SS17. [Online]. [Accessed 11 April 2017]. Available from: https://www.threadsstyling.com/inspire/gucci-ss17/ Trepanier, D. 2015. A guide to men’s loafers. [Online]. [Accessed 11 April 2017]. Available from: https://articlesofstyle.com/60825/a-guide-to-mens-loafer-styles/ Werlin, K. 2011. Ruffs. [Online]. [Accessed 11 April 2017]. Available from: http://www.thefashionhistorian.com/2011/11/ruffs.html Westover, A. 2012. Glossary of Renaissance Fashion. [Online]. [Accessed 11 April 2017]. Available from: https://historyofeuropeanfashion.wordpress.com/2012/01/19/glossary-of-renaissance-fashion/ Wilson. E, 1985, Adorned in Dreams, London: Virago
1. Gucci. 2016. Spring Summer 2016 Campaign. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/us/en/st/stories/article/agenda_2015_issue03_spring_summer_adv_campaign 2. Gucci. 2016. Spring Summer 2016 Campaign. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: https://www.gucci.com/us/en/st/stories/article/agenda_2015_issue03_spring_summer_adv_campaign 3. INDIGITAL. 2016. Gucci A/W 2016 Ready-To-Wear Collection. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/autumn-winter-2016-ready-towear/gucci/collection/ 4. Raffaello, S. 1509. Portrait of Cardinal Alessandro Farnese . [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pope_Paul_III
5. Unknown artist. 1575. Queen Elizabeth I Darnley Portrait. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: http://www.fallonburner.com/blog/?p=185 6. Lichtenstein, R. 1969. Modular Painting. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: http://into-the-fashion.com/30673/parisian-stroll-17-roy-lichtenstein-retrospective/ 7. GETTY. 2016. Gucci A/W 2016 Ready-To-Wear Details. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/autumn-winter-2016-ready-to-wear/gucci/details/ 8. Topshop. 2017. Jodie Foster 1970s. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: http://www.topshop.com/blog/2017/03/cool-style-icon-loafer-looks-recreate
9. Bettman/Corbis. 1970. Francis Ford Coppola in Gucci Horsebit Loafers. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: http://www.gq.com/gallery/gucci-loafers-horsebit-worn-bycelebrities 10. Vlamos, Y. 2016. S/S 2017 ready-to-wear Gucci. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-towear/gucci/slideshow/collection 11. Green, M. 1952. Suzy Parker Life Magazine cover. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: https://nenasnotes.com/2016/11/11/fashion-flashback-4/ 12. McKinley, R. 1954. Marilyn Monroe sings for the soldiers in Korea. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: http://www.yogallerymagazine.com/es/marilyn-forever 13. Met Museum. no date. Chopines. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/156120 14. Pamigianino. 1524. Antea. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: http://www.nytimes.com/2008/02/22/arts/design/22fric.html 15. INDIGITAL. 2016.Gucci S/S 2017 Details. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/spring-summer-2017-ready-to-wear/gucci/details/ 16. GETTY. 1978. Elton John London. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: http://mt.sohu.com/cul/d20170225/127261167_480010.shtml
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17. Rock, M. 1972. Ziggy Stardust. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/8a/5f/47/8a5f4727a644602938a1d832617ce784.jpg 18. YeDraw. no date. Tiger Drawing. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: http://www.yedraw.com/how-to-draw-tiger.html#.WPTSyIjyvIU