68 appendix

1. Consumers

Lush

The Lush customer is interested in sustainability, animal rights, and ethical practises, has a sense of humour and is politically left-wing (Lush, 2019 a).

2. Place

3. Product

4. Price

Online The product imagery is simple and the branding has an unstaged, natural feel. They also feature video clips to show the product in use for customers to get a better feel for the product features. The web-site includes a very in-depth policy page and showcases customer reviews clearly for each product re-sulting in a very transparent marketing approach (Lush, 2019 a).

App The apps purpose is to showcase the latest innovations, news and updates from the #LushCommuni-ty. It also allows insight into developments across products, communication and technology. This gives customers a sense of belonging to make them feel valued by the brand (Lush, 2019 b).

Spas Lush also offers spa services in 8 locations across the UK that focus on body and mind. This gives cus-tomers an experiential offering to enrich the brand’s value propositions (Lush, 2019 a).

Stores Lush has over 900 stores in 49 countries (Burn-Callander, 2015).

All products are 100% vegan, handmade, ethically sourced and are not tested on animals. The brand also show altruistic values through nonprofit charity products. They pride themselves on offering the freshest cosmetics online and putting the customer at the forefront of their product offering by invit-ing them to give opinions on new launches and new product suggestions.

Lush also offers colourfully wrapped gift sets, seasonal items and compilation albums as part of their product range. This helps to broaden their offering to appeal to a wider set of customers and increase sales potential. The brand also responds to customer needs by re-releasing products from the past as limited edition products.

In terms of their packaging-free makeup range they sell: • Highlighter • Foundation • Concealer • Lipstick • Primer

Other sustainable products include 78 plastic free products and vegan makeup. All products are given humorous names to make them memorable to the customer and strengthen Lush’s fun brand image. (Lush, 2019 a) • Refillable lipstick: £10-£12 (£8 for case) • Plastic free foundation: £17 • Plastic free concealer: £12 • Plastic free highlighter: £12-12.50 • Liquid eyeliner: £15 • Mascara: £15.50 • Translucent powder: £15 • Primer: £10-£26 (Lush, 2019 a) 57 B.E.A.M bettering environment and mind

The brand uses bright imagery and has a friendly, casual tone of voice to create a playful image. Real people are used to model products, which encourages inclusivity so that customers can relate to the brand. In-store parties also add to this personal feel and act as a great experience-led touch point for the brand to become even more connected to their customers.

Sustainability underpins much of Lush’s promotional strategies through offering naked packaging; in-centivising waste reduction by offering a free face mask for returning 5 empty product pots; and providing waste-free and sustainable lifestyle advice via a blog. The brand has built up a socially ethical image too through writing articles on their blog to introduce the individuals involved in developing their products; hosting annual awards to give financial backing to social change groups; and creating their own charity fund to invest in projects making a positive change for children living in challenging environments. (Lush, 2019 a)

s1. Consumers

2. Place

3. Product

4. Price

Kjaer Weis

The target customers for the brand are professional women, earning a good income. They are also fashion-focused and have an interest in wellness and sustainability. (Kjaer Weis, 2019)

Online Kjaer Weis use very simple, clean product imagery to give a sleek magazinelike feel. The models’ makeup looks are fresh and natural to show the ways that the makeup enhances the consumer’s nat-ural beauty. In the product description the brand has listed all the product benefits and all ingredients are listed in detail, this transparency is appealing to the target market as it gives an impression of au-thenticity. Each product also has a tutorial video attached to demonstrate how to apply each product. This service helps the brand appear modern and informative. The products are also sold on other international online websites such as net-a-porter. (Kjaer Weis, 2019)

Stores Kjaer Weis does not have any of its own stores but it appears in the stores of 131 US, UK and European stockists instead. (Kjaer Weis, 2019) Kjaer Weis’ (2019) products combine sustainable and luxury beauty, through offering high-end refilla-ble cosmetics. They personally inspect each new batch for consistency in colour and texture, which helps them to maintain a consistent image. The ingredients used are organic and “remains free of parabens, silicones, petrochemical emulsifiers and synthetic fragrances”. As a result, these products have natural benefits such as UV protection and helping boost collagen. This is an attractive premise for customers as the growing wellness trend has led people to opt for products that offer holistic health benefits. Kjaer Weis have also ensured the majority of their products are Certified Natural or Certified Organic by the standards of Italy’s certification body, the Controllo e Certificazione Prodotti Biologici.

The product range is extensive: • Face: Cream Foundation, Pressed Powder, Powder Bronzer • Cheek: Cream Blush, Highlighter • Lip: Lipstick, Lip Pencil, Lip Tint, The Lip Balm, Lip Gloss • Eye: Mascara, Cream Eye Shadow, Eye Shadow, Eye Pencil • Face: €52- €61.00 • Cheek: €49 • Lip: €27- 52 • Eye: €27-€43

1. Consumers

2. Place

3. Product

4. Price

5. Promotion

Sales promotions are used by the brand through offering 10% off in return for an email sign up, “free shipping on orders over $50” and a “free deluxe sample on orders over $125” (Kjaer Weis, 2019). This helps encourage consumers to spend more money with the brand. The refillable packaging is designed by award-winning creative director, Marc Atlan, to create stylish compacts “similar to jewellery boxes”. This timeless design gives the compacts enduring appeal that will encourage customers to look after the refillable packaging, thus reducing waste. The brand makes it simple for their consumers to refill their products too as they provide advice via a step-by-step online guide. A shoppable online magazine featuring a range of lookbooks and stories also helps the brand reinforce their fashionable and luxury brand image.

Elate

The typical Elate customers are free-spirited females living a zero-waste lifestyle. They are passionate about sustainability and are big animal lovers. (Elate, 2019) Online Elate’s online store has a blue and earth tone colour palette that reference the colours of nature and link to the brand’s sustainable values. Elate also promotes a cradle to cradle product cycle online by listing how to recycle items at the end of their life. This educational material helps them to build an ethical reputation. They incorporate transparency into their online store through a customer reviews tab and detailed information on the sourcing of their ingredients. The brand also links their Instagram into their online store through using customer imagery and showing the number of Instagram likes each product has received. This technique helps to create a sense of community as by using customer imagery from social media they feel connected to the brand. The use of likes helps customers to make purchasing decisions as it is an authentic way of promoting the most popular products. (Elate, 2019)

Stores Elate does not have stores itself however it sells its products through stockists in Australia, Hong Kong, theUS and Canada. (Elate, 2019) The brand sells refillable makeup products that are cruelty-free, organic and fair trade. The refillable compacts, tools, and palettes are made from bamboo as it is a “self-regenerating natural resource” (Elate, 2019). The products are therefore, extremely ethically conscious as they “don’t compromise the health of any person, animal or the planet”. They also sell products that come in the form of a capsule beauty collection to reduce waste products further. By creating products with versatility it also allows customers to reduce the time spent on makeup routines, thus appealing the increasingly time-poor consumer.

There are three main product categories with a large variety of sub products: • Face: Prep primer, Pressed foundation, Refresh foundation, Uplift foundation, Concealer, Loose powder, Creme blush, Powder blush • Lips: Better balm, Lipsticks, Lip gloss • Eyes: Eye shadow, Mascara, Eyeliner, Brow balm • Lips: $21-$22 • Eyes: $16-$37 • Face: $4-$42 Elate uses sales promotion to encourage larger sales, for example they offer free standard shipping on orders over $75. There is the choice of one free sample with every order too. This is a clever promotional method as it introduces the customer to more of the brand’s products by allowing them to trial them first. As part of the capsule beauty collection Elate developed a questionnaire to suggest product selections. This helps the customer make purchasing decisions by reducing the amount of products to choose from and the tailored set of products creates a more personalised feel. The brand also builds on their sustainable brand image as each product refill is packaged in seed paper to sprout wildflowers. This adds value to the product by adding a unique touch to enhance the customer’s sustainable lifestyle. (Elate, 2019) 59 B.E.A.M bettering environment and mind

3. Product

4. Price

5. Promotion

Giella

Giella appeals to middle-class women who have a desire to be different and are interested in the world of luxury. (Giella, 2019) Online The online store carries a fresh and minimalistic presentational style with product imagery at the forefront. Models appear on the website in abstract, editorial makeup looks that help to give a fashionable impression. The website also displays products as paint-like swatches. This links to the customizable nature of the brand’s products, as much like paint mixologists, Giella creates the perfect bespoke shade. Giella also clearly explains the benefits and aspects of each customizable aspect of the products so that customers can make a more informed purchase decision.

Stores Giella stocks its products in 18 locations in the US, with the founder herself offering private appointments in one store in New York. (Giella, 2019) The main selling point of the brand’s products are their customizable aspect. Each product has a number of variables to choose from including pigment; coverage; scent; level of oil-control; anti-aging properties; moisture levels; and anti-blemish options. The final blend is kept on record so that customers can re-purchase products with ease. Other appealing selling points include the use of minerals in the cosmetic’s base, allergy-friendly ingredients and the PETA cruelty-free certification. Giella also promise to mix their products by hand as they argue that this is the key to controlling the quality of the final product. This process, combined with the bespoke service allows them to situate themselves in the luxury market.

The custom blend cosmetics cover the following product categories: • Foundation • Mineral Powder • Bronzer • Blush • Highlighter • Cheek Tint • Lipstick / Lip Gloss • Nail Polish (Giella, 2019) • Foundation: $50-$60 • Mineral Powder: $45 • Bronzer: $45 • Blush: $45 • Highlighter: $35-60 • Cheek Tint: $34 • Lipstick / Lip Gloss: $35 • Nail Polish: $25 (Giella, 2019) Giella provides a number of in-store services to offer unique experiences for their customers. These include custom-blend events, professional makeup lessons, custom bridal looks and appointments with the founder herself. The varied nature of these events means that customers have many opportunities to connect with the brand in a physical setting. This also means that the brand can get first-hand feedback from their customer base, which will allow them to refine their service to more appropriately meet their needs. Giella also use sales promotions online as they offer 3 free samples and free delivery on orders over $50. This increases revenue potential of the brand by incentivising larger sales. The free samples also exposes purchasers to as many of the brand’s products as possible, resulting in an increasing likelihood of future sales. The brand communicates with their consumer through a lifestyle blog too. This brings the brand to life in and helps them build an authentic connection with their customers across all aspects of their lives. (Giella, 2019)

2. Place

3. Product

4. Price

5. Promotion

Trinny London

The Trinny London customer is a fashion-conscious woman. She is a busy, professional who is always on the move. (Trinny London, 2019) Online Trinny London’s website uses a bright pink and purple colour palette to mimic the sunny personality of owner Trinny Woodall. The site also features a lot of imagery and information about Trinny Woodall. This is because she was a famous TV personality and as a result she is a crucial part of the brand’s image because the brand is an extension of her personality. Trinny is known for being an advocate for female empowerment and self-love. The website is therefore extremely inclusive as the brand uses over 100 diverse models wearing over 600 specially selected makeup looks that complement their natural beauty. The use of such a large variety of models means that the customer is able to relate to the features of at least one model, which will help them to easily choose products that will complement their complexion. They also provide application tips and videos that have come from Trinny herself. As she has personally built up a reputation for giving trustworthy style advice in the public eye, customers are likely to believe in the integrity of her advice.

Store Trinny London has four stores across four cities: London, Newcastle, Dublin and New York. (Trinny London, 2019) Trinny London is a very inclusive makeup brand that creates tailored capsule makeup collections based on the unique blend of the consumer’s skin, hair and eye colour. All of their products are cruelty free and some are also vegan-friendly. The packaging of some of their products is refillable, making them more appealing to the sustainability-conscious consumer. The stackable sets also lend themselves to frequent travellers as they fit neatly inside a makeup bag.(Trinny London, 2019)

The brand focuses on four product categories and has a large number of products under each umbrella as seen below: • Face: Skin Perfector,Foundation/Concealer, Contour, Highlighter,

Bronzer,Mattifying Balm, Lip And Line Filler, Serum Concealer • Cheek: Lip2cheek, Blusher • Lip: Soothing Balm, Lip2cheek, Lip Gloss, Lip Colour, Metallic Lip, Lip

Transformer • Eye: Eye Shade, Eye Liner • Stacks: £55-£100 • Face: £25-£35 • Lip: £16-£58 • Eye: £18-£70 • Cheek: £25-£55 (Trinny London, 2019) Much like the other competitors, Trinny London also offers sales promotions such as Free UK delivery on orders over £50 and a free makeup bag on orders over £150. This technique is a simple way to increase the size of customer orders and boost revenue. The brand uses an in-depth questionnaire to find the perfect match for their online consumers. This technique acts as a quirky customer experience that makes the online shopping process memorable. Trinny London also has a blog covering a wide range of topics from beauty, to fashion and lifestyle. This is a perfect tool for the brand to enhance their friendly, approachable brand image. In-store promotional activities include one-to-one makeup classes. This helps brands to connect with the customer on a more personal level and enhances the brand’s value proposition. (Trinny London, 2019)

Economic

Social

Technological

Environmental

Aims have been made by pressure groups to encourage governments to reduce excess waste. For example, the government funded group, Zero Waste Scotland, said that “that consumers should refuse all needless single-use items” (Allardyce, 2019). This interest in reducing waste has gained more traction following shows such as Blue Planet which shone a light on the catastrophic impact plastic had on the marine environment.

One of the main factors effecting Britain’s current economy is the exit from the European Union. Milliken and Schomberg (2019) noted that in 2019 “the annual rate of GDP growth slowed to 1.1% from 1.3%” and this downturn may be worsened as Prime Minister Boris Johnson threatens “to take Britain out of the EU by Oct. 31, without a transition period if necessary”. This could have a major impact on businesses as it “risks causing major disruption to imports” and may lead to drops to industrial output. It is therefore evident that businesses should aim to focus on refining their manufacturing processes to minimise costs and avoid jeopardising service to their customers.

Another important economic consideration is the strength of the ‘silver economy’. Shibata (2019) stated that “the number of people aged 80 years or older is projected to triple, from 143 million in 2019 to 426 million in 2050”. This means that the population will be living healthier lives for longer and in turn “grows a group of consumers, workers and innovators”. This group are key contributors to boosting the economy as The Boston Consulting Group highlighted, “by 2030, the 55-plus population in the US will have accounted for half of all domestic consumer spending growth since the global financial crisis”. There has been an increase in levels of spirituality recently among millennials, Gen Xers and Gen Z. Rather than becoming involved in traditional forms of religion they are now “embracing more spiritual beliefs and practices like tarot, astrology, meditation, energy healing and crystals” (Roy, 2019). This shows that society is looking to find new ways to bring them peace in their increasingly more hectic lives.

Also, research shows that “a total of 12.8 million working days were lost because of work-related stress, anxiety and depression in 2018-19” (Palmer, 2019). This shows that it is becoming more difficult for people to find a healthy work-life balance and that increased pressure at work is having a very detrimental effect on people’s mental health. This will impact businesses as consumers will desire products enhance their mental wellbeing. They will also require products that are easily accessible as they have less time to spend searching for the right products. 3D printing technology is a hot topic at the moment, particularly in manufacturing. For instance, it can help companies to “become more responsive to customer demands” (Oliver, 2019) through the ability to personalise products to customer needs; enable localisation of production, thus shortening supply chains, reducing labour costs and limiting carbon emissions; and allow for batch production to minimise waste.

Augmented reality is equally as topical. The immersive technology has several applications from a brand perspective including Experiential Marketing, which is becoming very important as businesses are discovering that “superior brand experience is the key to creating long-term relationships” (Fade, 2019). AR is also driving sales through “interfaces that allow customers to try products prior to purchasing”. The technology has manufacturing benefits as AR can be used “to design, build and test products”, thus saving costs and streamlining the design process. The Extinction Rebellion campaign gained media attention in 2019 and helped highlight the critical need for a global sustainability shift. The aim of the group is to get governments to become more transparent in regards to the “climate and ecological emergency” (The Guardian, 2019). This shows that the general population are becoming more enlightened regarding the needs of the environment.

This interest in sustainability is also filtering across to large conglomerates. Unilever aimed to half “its use of virgin plastic, by reducing its absolute use of plastic packaging by more than 100,000 tonnes and accelerating its use of recycled plastic” (Unilever, 2019). This step towards a circular economy is a move that many businesses will be looking to make in order to reduce their environmental impact New legislation in France has tapped into tackling street harassment. This new law covers “sexist insults, degrading or humiliating comments, or hostile and offensive sexual or sexist behaviour towards a person in public areas, schools or workplaces” (Willsher, 2019). As a result, the police have issued 447 fines since the new law was put into place. This is a positive step towards female empowerment by enforcing harsher punishments for everyday sexual harassment.

Appendix 4: Reflections

Initial Reflection

The first week lecture and seminar helped open my eyes to wider global emerging trends. By looking at the most innovative marketing strategies from a range of marketing and business awards I was able to identify potential ways to tie the trends together. This helped me to consider how to solve new marketing problems and serve consumer groups that have been overlooked. Having reflected on my personal interests and strengths I decided to explore how I could link the sustainability macro trend to the mental health and diversity trends. This led me to look into refillable, bespoke makeup. I wanted to create a makeup range that was tailored to customer needs so that the stress involved in purchasing makeup was reduced. This would give customers more time back in their day to spend on doing the things that make them happy. Purchasing guilt would be reduced too as the refillable aspect would make the products environmentally-friendly, thus creating wider appeal. I also learnt about the fourth industrial revolution and so I started to consider how I could incorporate new technologies into my marketing plan, such as using Augmented Reality.

By week five I had refined my concept further and started to explore competitors and target consumers. Having carried out a SWOT analysis of each competitor, I found that there was a gap in the market for bespoke, refillable cosmetics in the luxury sector. This clarified to me that my idea was innovative enough. I then started to define the types of customers that might like to buy my product and the level of demand in the market. I discovered that the beauty industry was booming and that there was a growth in the sustainable beauty sector. Once again this research reassured me that there was a real need for my cosmetic brand.

We also had a guest lecturer for our week five lecture and seminar. Rebecca Stevenson, a Leeds School of Design alumni, is a Marketing Leader for WGSN. The lecture Rebecca delivered gave me some invaluable information. In relation to consumer trends she noted that society was interested in buying less but buying better; interested in product lifecycles as recommence has become more popular; and are more tuned-in to market failures as social media accounts are created to hold brands accountable for their actions (Stevenson, 2019). These findings were useful to me as it showed that customers would be interested in buying a high quality makeup product that has a cradle-to-cradle product lifecycle. It also showed me that transparency and honesty was important in branding.

During the seminar I summarised my concept to Rebecca to gain some feedback. This was a useful practise as it helped me define my initial idea further and made me consider potential gaps in my research. I was given some very useful advice from Rebecca as she helped me refine my USP and product offering. She said that the main element of my in-store offering should be having highly-trained makeup artists that have an understanding of skin conditions. These sales staff could then tailor the makeup formulas perfectly to each customer. This was very useful feedback as I understood that this service would help increase footfall into stores as the one-to-one experience would help create customer demand and differentiate B.E.A.M from competitors. Rebecca also made me consider how I could deliver the bespoke offering for online sales. I had not thought about this detail fully yet so I was grateful for the prompt. By Rebecca questioning me on how my model would work for each distribution channel I was able to create a more fullproof marketing plan. I decided that my business model should first start by encouraging customers to have a consultation in-store. Then once the product formulas had been created and logged on an internal system the customer could then purchase future refills online using their unique barcode. In week 7 we had another guest lecturer, Paul Young, who is co-founder of brand agency A New Kind of Kick. I had just started to think about my communication strategy at this stage so it was the perfect time for me to think about my brand’s tone of voice and the overall brand message. The lecture was very useful as by following the path Paul took to create a brand strategy I was able to understand the most important brand principles. These included creating an engaging story, ensuring the message is cohesive, and keeping the customer’s interests at the forefront. I made sure to think about these key points when building my own branding.

After I pitched my concept to Paul Young he gave me some more feedback. I was told that I had over-complicated my concept as I tried to explain several problems that my product could solve such as mental health issues, cutting down on single use plastics and the need for personalisation. Paul helped explain to me that I needed to tie up the various elements under one core brand mission. This would help to create a more purposeful objective which would help create a clearer brand message. By scaling back my idea I realised what I was offering was a fully waste-free makeup brand. The makeup range reduces waste mental energy by simplifying purchasing decisions as products are tailored to customer’s skin and lifestyle. This helps reduce waste consumption as the customers can buy the capsule makeup collection which covers all of their needs. It also reduces waste in the environment as the refillable feature taps into the circular economy. By defining my brand in this way I was able to create a more appropriate marketing strategy that reinforced the overarching waste-free brand message, which helped give my concept more integrity.

In week nine I attended a tutorial with Sara in which I discussed my progress and ask some questions that I had. Beforehand, I identified three main discussion points to raise in the meeting so that I could use the tutorial time more wisely. This was a good decision as I gained a lot of useful feedback during our discussion. I first asked for help with the development of my customer research. I was uncertain about how best to define my target customer as my customer spanned multiple generations. Sara suggested that I should first identify who is currently buying this type of product by looking at overall market data. Then I could group my target customer in terms of psychographic characteristics. This was helpful as I could combine quantitative market data with qualitative information to create a more comprehensive customer profile. The psychographic segmentation was particularly useful as I could define the overall lifestyle and attitudes of my target customer rather than grouping them by age.

The next discussion point was my competitor research. As my main competitors were grouped by either being a bespoke makeup brand or a refillable makeup brand I was struggling to find a way to analyse them as a whole. Sara suggested I use a brand conceptual map to visualise the gap in the market for my brand. This diagram was a simple way to incorporate the various features of all the competitors such as being high-end or high-street, sustainable or unsustainable and bespoke or generic. It also signalled to me that there was a definite space for a sustainable, bespoke makeup brand in the luxury market.

I lastly presented my product plan to gain some advice on how to improve it. Part of my plan was to mould the shape of the makeup packaging to the individual’s hand to increase the level of personalisation. However, Sara suggested that I should consider the end applications of the products. This helped me to make most appropriate design decisions. I realised that if the products packaging was not entirely flat it would make it difficult to rest products on a makeup table. I therefore, decided that I should allow customers to customise the pattern of the packaging instead. This would still allow for personalisation but would not jeopardise the ergonomics of the product. I was also overcomplicating my product offering as I was considering linking the products to customers’ star sign. However, Sara suggested that I should have a simple core product range to start with. This would ensure that the product meets the needs of the customers and the less fussy the product is the more it fits in with the waste-free brand concept.

The presentation assessment took place in Week 10. This was a good opportunity to gather all of my existing work into a concise set of slides. This helped me pinpoint the most important elements of my concept, which made it easier for me to form my executive summary. It also made me think about how I was going to present my work in my final project document, which saved me some time later. I made sure to time myself and practise presenting. This helped me deliver my pitch more confidently and also ensured that I did not exceed the time limit.

During the feedback I was told that I had come up with an innovative idea that addressed a wider problem. However, there were a couple of aspects that I needed to improve. My summary of my USP was inaccurate and Maria helped me realise that my real competitive advantage was the quality of the product and the experiential offering. This was useful as I could correct this before handing in my project report and I now have a better grasp of the elements that makes a product stand out in a market. I included a brand perceptual map after listening to Sara’s advice however, I had not considered all the comparative elements. Maria suggested that I should look at the experiential offerings of the competitors and whether they were high-end or high-street. For my final project I decided to include multiple diagrams, which helped me visualise the market opportunity more clearly and prove that there was a place for my brand in the luxury sector. There was also confusion surrounding the price of my products. I had stated the price of the makeup refill and the refillable packaging separately. Eunsuk suggested that I combine the price of the two components. By doing so it made it more evident that my products were high quality, and positioned in the luxury market.

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