Pacific Passage Maker 2022

2022 ANNUAL

DEDICATED TO TRAWLERS, PASSAGE MAKERS AND CRUISING

Built for PURPOSE MV ISLA

TO RUSSIA WITH LOVE

INHOSPITABLE, YET STUNNINGLY BEAUTIFUL

ANCHORING FOR DUMMIES

THE RIGHT AND THE WRONG WAY TO ANCHOR

PERSONAL SAFETY DEVICES A FEW SERIOUS OPTIONS

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PA C I F I C

PA S S A G E M A K E R

2022

A N N U A L

C O N T E N T S

142 TO RUSSIA WITH LOVE In Part 3 on the voyage of the MV Strannik, Rodney Russ takes us further up the coast of Russia, from Anadyr into some of the most inhospitable, yet stunningly beautiful regions of Northern Russia.

148 MV ISLA - KIWI SUPERYACHT

154 ANCHORING FOR DUMMIES

Built in a yard overlooking the South Pacific, specifically to explore the oceans surrounding her island home, the 24.7m MV Isla is New Zealand’s newest superyacht launch.

Why do so many people find something so simple, so difficult? Rpn Czerniak endeavours to teach recreational mariners how to properly and safely anchor their vessels.

164 PERSONAL SAFETY DEVICES An EPIRB or personal locator beacon can take the search out of search and rescue. We look at a few of the best ones on the market.

2022 ANNUAL

DEDICATED TO TRAWLERS, PASSAGE MAKERS AND CRUISING

COVER: MV ISLA

Built for PURPOSE

148

MV ISLA

TO RUSSIA WITH LOVE

INHOSPITABLE, YET STUNNINGLY BEAUTIFUL

ANCHORING FOR DUMMIES

THE RIGHT AND THE WRONG WAY TO ANCHOR

PERSONAL SAFETY DEVICES A FEW SERIOUS OPTIONS

PowerboatMagazine.co.nz

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The Ultimate Adventure

The Ultimate Cruising Yacht Fleming Yachts represent the point at which adventure and luxury converge. From the efficient performance that offers unmatched range, to the durability of the construction, to the impeccable comfort found throughout our interiors, Fleming is the Ultimate Cruising Yacht.

Learn why at FlemingYachts.com/Research

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BE CAREFUL WHAT YOU DREAM

RUSSIA PART 3

e v o l h wit

In Part 3 on the voyage of the MV Strannik, Rodney Russ takes us further up the coast of Russia, from Anadyr into some of the most inhospitable, yet stunningly beautiful regions of Northern Russia IMAGES BY O.BELONOVICH & O.TITOVA

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s we departed Anadyr we started our journey into the deep north proper. Our first port of call was Egvekinot on the shores of Kresta Bay just a few miles south of the Arctic Circle. The township was founded in 1946 as a Gulag, the political prisoners were set to work building a road to a tin mine at Lultin some 120 miles inland. Today Egvekinot is an important road head for several gold mines operating in the region and is also a staging point for the winter conveys (trucks) which supply the numerous small settlements along the north coast of Chukotka via a network of winter roads.

In Kresta Bay we encountered a large pod of Humpback Whales.

Our interpreter Olga was studying this species and so we spent some time amongst them for her to get photographs that would allow her to identify individuals. On our arrival at Egvekinot, the Border Guards checked our papers before we were allowed ashore. The town has one of the best museums in Chukotka and so we visited here and soaked in the history.

Leaving Kresta Bay behind we headed southeast towards Komsol’skaya Bay and the town of Provideniya.

Provideniya was a former Soviet Military Port and the eastern terminus of the Northern Sea Route or NE Passage. The town has

experienced massive depopulation since Perestroika, the population has dropped from 6600 to about 1800. During the Soviet period, large conveys of ships or caravans as they were referred to congregated here before being assisted by icebreakers across the top of Russia to Murmansk.

These caravans were the lifeblood of the Russian Far East. Today the Northern Sea Route administration keeps icebreakers on station along the route to assist any shipping that might require it.

BORDER ISSUES

Because of its proximity to Alaska, the town is an important Border Guard base and they (6 of them) were our first visitors after we dropped anchor.

They wanted to check all our Border Crossings against our permit, their records and our logbook/charts. There was one small mistake that threatened to derail our plans. I had inadvertently transposed some figures for one of our earlier crossings putting us a few miles inland on the tundra Olga worked overtime to try and explain this was a simple typo, but Border Guards are trained not to trust anybody.

They eventually agreed to call it an administrative error and we parted friends.

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Providenyia is also headquarters for the recently formed Beringia National Park. This park includes large areas of Northern Chukotka and has some unique issues. Firstly the boundaries are discontinuous as a result of trying to take into account natural history values and traditional land use and secondly it includes control over some sea areas to protect marine mammals such as walrus, seal, gray and bowhead whales which are also hunted by the indigenous Chukchi and Eskimo peoples. We spent a leisurely afternoon around a fire with friends who work for the Park.

The weather map for the next few days looked good for a run through the Bering Strait so we farewelled Providenyia and headed north towards the islands in the Senyavina Strait and the famed whalebone alley on Yttygan Island. Whale Bone ally is an archaeological site, the age and function of which is debated by scholars. The consensus is that it dates from the 14th century and is either an important ceremonial site or a communal butchering and meat storage site. Whichever one of these it is still impressive. You can walk down an alley of gray whale jawbone to some platform areas constructed from the local rock. Numerous Gray whale skulls also adorned the site.

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One last stop before we continued north, the Gilmimyl thermal pool. It is not what you imagine hot pools to be, but they are one of my favourite sites in Chukotka. They are a simple wooden lined pool perhaps 2.5m x 1.8m beside a river in the middle of high arctic tundra. As they say, it is all about location location location and I agree. We soaked in the pool, plunged into the ice-cold river occasionally and literally chewed the fat with local Chukchi many of whom I knew from previous visits.

We worked our way slowly north along the western shoreline of the Bering Strait anchoring in the Mechigmenskiy lagoon with the intention of visiting the ancient and now abandoned Eskimo village of Mechigmen. The weather changed while we were here and we ended up spending a couple of nights. We were visited by some local Chukchi Reindeers herders who generously shared some of their fresh reindeer meat with us. The next stop was the village of Lavrentiya. It is on the southern shores of Lavrentiya Bay, named by Cooks 3rd Expedition as they arrived here on the feast day of St Lawrence in 1778. Lavrentiya is the administrative centre for this region, it also frequently hosts the annual Beringia Arctic games where teams from Chukotka, St Lawrence Island and Alaska compete in traditional games such as wrestling, bardara (traditional walrus skin covered boats) racing and dancing. It also hosts the Nadezhda dog sledding race, Chukotka's equivalent of the Iditarod.

I had attended both the games and

the race on previous occasions and knew many of the people in the village. Before we could land though the Border Guards checked and double-checked our papers.

The hospitality was genuine and it was tempting to stay but I wanted to visit the nearby abandoned village of Nunyamo. It is one of several Eskimo villages that the Soviet Government had forcibly closed and relocated in the 1950s. One of the more infamous ones was the village of Nauken perched on the hillside near Cape Dezhnev. The argument for relocating the villages was that they were too difficult to administer and service, the reality was that they were a perceived security risk being so close to Alaska.

We wandered around the remains of Nunyamo and tried to imagine what life would have been like for these people.

Back on board, we laid a course for Cape Dezhnev and the Bering Strait proper. Cook named the Bering Strait after Vitus Bering in the mistaken belief that he was the first European to transit the Strait on his 1728 expedition. However, the honour of being the first European to transit the Strait belongs to Semyon Dezhnev, a Cossack who had sailed east along the north coast of Russia from the Kolyma River in 1648. There is a monument to Dezhnev near the lighthouse on the Cape that bears his name.

The Border Guards stationed on nearby Ratmanov (Big Diomede) Island called us as we passed out of the strait. This island is the easternmost possession of the Russian Federation and the closest territory to the USA. The only inhabitants are

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THERMAL POOLS

Border Guards and military personal.

It is just 2 nm across the dateline to Little Diomede Island which is claimed and manned by American personal from similar agencies.

We turned west and followed the northern coast of Russia, we were close enough inshore to see the villages of Uelen, Inchoun, Emnytagyn, Enurmino and Neshkan. I had snowmobiled along this coast in the winter of 2017 and met many of the folk that lived in these villages. They were predominantly marine mammal hunters or reindeer herders. They are hospitable and very generous people and I was disappointed we didn’t have time to stop but we had agreed to be at Wrangel Island by a certain date and we still had 360 miles to go. However, there was one stop that I just had to make and that was at Kamakai in Kolyuchinskaya Bay. Just before the entrance to the Bay, we passed the point where the Swedish explorer Nordenskjold had wintered over during the first every transit of the NE Passage in 1878. Ice had stopped him just a few miles short of his goal and forced him to spend a winter here. How different conditions were today there was no ice for hundreds of miles according to the ice maps we had downloaded.

Kamakai is not a village, it is just a single very simple hut where two very dear friends Vasili and Galina live.

They were reindeer herders who have retired here and live the simplest of lives on the tundra. We had stayed with them on our snowmobile trip in 2017 and had made lifelong friends.

We took fresh food and some special treats for their grandchildren who

were living with them and spent an enjoyable couple of hours. Their closest neighbours are some 60 miles away at the village of Neskan. They keep in contact with their reindeer herding family by radio.

WRANGEL ISLAND

We said our farewells not sure when we would see them again and sailed back to the open sea, from there we had 250nm to Wrangel Island. Our course took south of Kolyuchin Island.

On the western end of the island, we could just make out the remains of an abandoned Metrological and Research Station. It was one of over 100 stations built and manned by the Soviets to provide data and information for the caravans transiting the NE Passage.

The majority are now derelict.

We enjoyed a good run to Wrangel Island and arrived at 0800 on the 24th of September. The Island is a Federal Nature Reserve. The Islands existence was speculated upon by the explorer Von Wrangel in 1764 after he saw birds flying north from the Russian mainland. The island was named after him when the Island was eventually

discovered in 1867. An archaeological site was discovered on the island which suggests that Paleo Eskimos had at least visited the Island before European discovery. Russia formally claimed the Island in 1924. Although that didn't stop both Canada and USA from making claims.

The island is probably best known as a breeding ground for Polar Bears, it is often referred to as the Polar Bear maternity ward. As the climate warms and the sea ice recedes further and further north each summer, more and more polar bears are forced to seek refuge here. (In 2017 we counted 158 polar bears feeding on a dead bowhead whale.) Muskox from Canada were liberated onto the island in 1975 and progeny from this herd have

recently been taken to central Siberia in an attempt to re-establish a Siberian herd as they had become extinct there.

Snow geese breed here and migrate to North America in the winter. Arctic foxes and wolves roam the Island and a remnant population of reindeer exists, albeit in very small numbers.

Reindeer along with Reindeer Herders were brought to the Island in 1926 as part of the Russian claim. We landed at the old village of Somnitelnaya in Krasin Bay where the Reindeer Herders once lived. Their houses are delict but the Nature Reserve maintains a summer base here and it was here we caught up with Alexander Gruzdev the Director of the Park and discussed our plans to pick up the film crew who were based at Draggi Bay on the

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eastern end of the Island.

The Island has always played an important strategic role for the Russian military. At the height of the cold war, the island was an important military base for both the air force and army. There are no natural or sheltered harbours on the island and as it was often icebound year around, it precluded the navy. The Russian Federation has recently re-established a military base at Ushakovskiy in Rogers Inlet, this was a no-go zone and our permit stated we had to keep 12 miles off the coast when passing it which meant a significant detour moving from Kasin Bay to Draggi Bay. Rogers Bay where the Military and the Park headquarters are is synonymous with one of the greatest Arctic shipwreck and survival stories. In 1914 the Karluk, (Capt. Bartlett) was crushed in the ice and sunk. The survivors struggled ashore across the ice and built a camp at Draggi Bay. The party was to split later and a second camp was established in Rogers Inlet. In the meantime, Bartlett and an Eskimo guide walked across the Long Strait to Chukotka eventually finding their way to Nome Alaska to get help for the crew. They were eventually rescued by a vessel called the “Wing and Ding”. The expedition organiser, who had abandoned Bartlett and the vessel when it first became trapped in ice off the Alaskan coast, Vilhjalmur

Stefansson mounted a second expedition in 1921 to lay claim to the Island for Canada. A young Alaskan girl, Ada Blackjack (who had been employed as a seamstress on the Karluk Expedition) signed up for this ill-fated expedition. The stories of the Karluk Expedition and the second expedition are best told by Jennifer Niven in her books "The Ice Master" and "Ada Blackjack"

DRAGGI BAY

We arrived at Draggi Bay at 1130 hrs and made radio contact with the film crew. The sea conditions were far from ideal for a pickup but the weather forecast wasn't much better, so we choose a spot on the beach close to the Karluk monument where the surf seemed a little less wild. Two trips in the RIB with a mountain of gear and four people and the job was done.

It was late in the season and with strong South Easterly winds forecast we decided to run for it, there had been talk of going via Herald Island a remote island some 35 miles east of Wrangel Island but that idea was soon dropped in favour of heading to Anadyr.

The first 24 hours of our run south were good but then 3540kt headwinds (the southeasterly which had been forecast) came away. We opted to turn and run into Kolyuchinskaya Bay where we

The Gilmimyl thermal pool is not what you imagine hot pools to be.

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remained at anchor for 24 hours until the weather eased. We didn't make any further stops until we got to Anadyr where the film crew disembarked. Autumn had definitely arrived, daylight hours were considerably shorter, snowstorms were frequent and chunks of ice were floating down the Anadyr River. We took on stores and fuel and left for Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskiy sad, but glad to be leaving, in the knowledge that we would be back. We sheltered from the weather in Bukta Paval for a couple of days and also briefly at Karaginsky Island. The Border Guards continued to take an interest in us and kindly pointed out that our cruising permit had expired, which meant that we had to stay with 12nm of the coast, there was no cutting corners. Taking a risk that they wouldn’t see us wasn’t even a consideration because we knew Moscow was watching us.

On arrival in PetropavlovskKamchatskiy on the 19th of October we had completed 4800nm in the two months we had been away. We stayed just long enough to complete departure formalities take on a few stores before leaving for Japan.

Yokohama next (official) stop.

the o villages that several Eskim of e on s. is 50 o, unyam d in the 19 d village of N and relocate The abandone forcibly closed d ha t en nm Soviet Gover

The au thor w ith two friends very d Vasili a ear nd Gali reinde na tha er herd t w e ere r s to Kam who ha akai an ve retir d live t ed he sim lives o plest o n the t f undra.

Egvekinot on the shores of Kresta Bay just a few miles south of the Arctic Circle. The township was founded in 1946 as a Gulag, the political prisoners were set to work building a road to a tin mine at Lultin some 120 miles inland.

Polar bears m aking a meal of a de ad bowhead wha le.

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B O AT R E V I E W > M V I S L A

MADE FOR THIS.

MV ISLA Built in a yard overlooking the South Pacific, specifically to explore the oceans surrounding her island home the 24.7m motor yacht Isla is New Zealand’s newest superyacht launch, and the epitome of built for purpose.

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F

irst impressions are of an elegant, strong superstructure - sturdy enough to withstand the vagaries of Pacific cruising and New Zealand’s varied cruising grounds - and that first impression holds true on deeper inspection. With the steel of a Swedish naval landing craft woven into her DNA, Isla has a powerful, substantial hull, heavy enough to deliver safety and stability.

Her semi-displacement planing design means steady, strong performance underway. A bespoke build, custombuilt by New Zealand craftsmen, Isla is ready for ocean passages, with an easy burst of muscle that sees her power up to a top speed of 17.6 knots and cruise comfortably at 13 knots.

Designed to be ocean-going and sea worthy to move between the cruising grounds of her region - from the shallow atolls of the Pacific, to the rugged fjords of New Zealand’s south - she’s tough and stylish with exceptional sea-kindliness. Featuring plenty of space for comfortable family living onboard, Isla is equipped

with an island-cruising draft; coupled with outstanding steadiness underway courtesy of her steel hull, for nolimits adventures.

Plenty of expert thought has gone into the systems, with backups of secondary systems to ensure ocean passages are safe. These systems have been designed to keep the owner and family secure and comfortable, with design and installation overseen by two superyacht captains drawing on their world cruising experience to create an ultrareliable yacht.

That shallow draft of 1.55m encourages exploration; tempting her owner to edge a little further into the next bay, or investigate hidden atolls at closer range. Once there, a big, generous swim platform at the stern will become a favorite spot for watersports, lounging, or taking off in the tender for further adventures.

A large lazarette has been created as a multi-functional space for the owner to make their own, with room for dive equipment, toys, and an ensuite and plenty of space to convert into a live-aboard captain’s cabin.

MV Isla is one of the few brand new vessels available immediately on the New Zealand brokerage market.

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B O AT R E V I E W > M V I S L A

A bespoke custom build by New Zealand craftsmen, Isla is ready for ocean passages.

The pilothouse will become a much-loved spot onboard.

A family-style galley encourages relaxed hospitality and socialising after long days taking in southern hemisphere adventures.

The airy upper salon is complemented by a warm, inviting second lounge in the lower saloon.

HI TECH SYSTEMS Her pilothouse will become a much-loved spot onboard. Equipped with high-tech systems, it’s also fitted with a double settee to allow guests to gather and observe the helm chair and control console, with a solid wood chart table for passage planning and charting the next adventure.

Her range will take her to the Pacific and she’s been designed to be handled by an owneroperator. Though the size of a superyacht, Isla is a yacht to jump onboard and set out as the feeling strikes.

A gantry crane will load a tender to the bow and her technical equipment and engine room have been specified to a commercial standard, with technical systems to support cruising in a multitude of conditions, and weeks in the islands.

Built at Harbourside Boat Works in Whangarei, supported by the superyacht expertise of Auckland-based JP Marine’s project management for construction and fit out, Isla was finished to a high standard, by a team which also included Marine and Industrial Electrics and Marine and Industrial Rebuilds.

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“This is a vessel with toughness and highquality workmanship built into her DNA,” says JP Marine director, Jonathan Edgar.

“It’s great to see vessels continue to emerge from New Zealand, built specifically for the adventurous waters of the South Pacific with the draft and sea-kindliness for serious cruising in mind.”

EYE FOR DETAIL Fully-custom, Isla displays a clean, luxurious beauty in simplicity. This is no production boat, and there’s a lack of ostentatious extras for the sake of extras. Move through the interior and it becomes clear that this is a one-off; each fitting, finishing, and aspect of the layout has been chosen with care to encourage a relaxed, barefoot luxury that doesn’t leave room for stress. It’s the Kiwi way of life condensed into a luxury vessel, and it works.

An eye for detail is apparent throughout the interior with subtle layers of natural texture introducing a calming, relaxed luxury approach. The interiors, by JP Marine interior, bring a contemporary feel throughout, with

neutral finishings which provide a calming, airy feel and invite guests to enjoy the vistas passing by.

That precision simplicity shows up again in her operation.

Designed with care for ease-of-operation, she’s responsive, making Isla easy for a couple to operate alone without the need for crew onboard - step aboard on a sunny Friday evening and take off for the weekend - little planning, few worries.

The vessel is equipped with four cabins including a full beam owners’ suite, and an open salon on the main deck, with a family-style galley to encourage relaxed hospitality and socialising after long days taking in southern hemisphere adventures.

A full beam master’s suite has been created to be comfortable for long voyages with plenty of storage and a generous ensuite, while a separate owner’s office doubles as a spare single cabin.

Twin VIP ensuite cabins to port and starboard provide further accommodation for four more guests, and the lazarette can be turned into a fifth ensuite cabin at the stern to house crew or additional guests. When more guests appear, the lower salon table will convert into a comfortable double bed, sleeping an additional two people.

Dometic air-conditioning and a Sonos sound system throughout add to the sense of easy comfort on board and the airy upper salon is complemented by a warm, inviting second lounge in the lower salon, which will become a favourite space for family movie nights, spreading out board games or curling up with a book.

A full beam master’s suite has been created to be comfortable for long voyages with plenty of storage and a generous ensuite.

Twin VIP ensuite cabins to port and starboard provide further accommodation for four more guests.

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B O AT R E V I E W > M V I S L A

Isla is brand new and an open book, ready to be personalised and styled according to the new owner’s preferred way of spending time on the water.

A large sun deck boasts plenty of space to gather, while plotting the next day of exploration, and there’s more sunny spots to be enjoyed with aft deck dining, and space for sunpads on the bow. All of which makes for great entertaining - there’s different zones to allow the family to spread out - allowing unique spaces for kids to play as loudly

as they like without impinging on the quiet adult sundowner time.

She has been built to Australian survey (NSCV 1D) and MNZ restricted limits.

This allows the new owner to easily transition Isla into a successful charter yacht, giving the ability to offset the vessel’s running costs. Having been launched under full time management, Isla comes with an owner’s manual and has been through a full warranty list, so is completely fine-tuned for a seamless transition to her first owner.

“We’re pleased to announce M/Y Isla is now available on the brokerage market ready to take a new owner on the exploration of a lifetime,” says Edgar.

“She is one of the few brand new vessels available immediately on the New Zealand brokerage market, and ready for an owner to put their mark on her.

There are only a small number of vessels available like this - adventurous, elegant, and capable - and we’re looking forward to seeing Isla take her new owner on the adventure of a lifetime.”

T E C H N I C A L S P E C I F I C AT I O N S Design Name: MV ISLA Year Launched: 2021 LOA: 24.765 m LWL: 5.55 m Beam: 6.3 m Draft: 1.55 m Displ (light): 58.9 t Displ (heavy): 66.7 t Fuel: 7000 L Water: 1650 L Fuel Efficiency: 70L per hour at 10 knots Hull material: Steel Superstructure: GRP with balsa core

Engines: 2 x Detroit diesel Series 60 Winch: Quick Roy Hatches: Lewmar Davit: Oceanlift Transmissions: ZF IRM 350AL Propellers: Briski 4 Blade Nibral MFD: Raymarine Generators: Cummins ONSM Invertors: Victron 4kW Watermaker: Aqua Whisper Bow thruster: Lewmar Air Con: Dometic Cruise speed: 10 knot

Knots 7.4 9.0 10.7 12.0 13.0 14.2 17.0

L/h 26 44 72 112 164 232 320

L/NM 3.5 4.9 6.7 9.3 12.6 16.3 18.8

17.6 knots 1000NM at 10 knots/ 1400NM at 8 knots 70L per hour at 10 knots Australian survey (NSCV 1D) and Maritime New Zealand restricted limits Contact: Isla McKechnie

Ph +64 22 406 7058 sales@jpmarine.co.nz www.jpmarine.co.nz

The interiors, by JP Marine interior, bring a contemporary feel throughout, with neutral finishings which provide a calming, airy feel.

P E R F O R M A N C E D ATA RPM 1000 1200 1400 1600 1800 2000 2200

Top speed: Range:

Fuel Efficie ncy: Certification:

Range (NM) 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

The flybridge is all about entertaining space, with no secondary helm.

Note: Range is based on 90% of fuel capacity, in calm conditions.

There is plenty of different deck spaces to allow the family to spread out.

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ANCHORING FOR DUMMIES Why do so many people find something so simple, so difficult?

TEXT BY RON CZERNIAK - MARINE CONSULTANT

When it comes to boating, two of the most fascinating voyeuristic pleasures to be had are watching people launch and retrieve their trailer boats at a boat ramp and observing people anchoring their boats, whether for a few hours of fishing or diving, to anchoring for the night at the conclusion of a voyage.

While the former activity is worth an article unto itself, this article is an endeavour to teach recreational mariners how to properly and safely anchor their vessels.

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L

iterally thousands upon thousands of articles have been written regarding how to properly anchor your recreational vessel, whether it be a 5 metre runabout to a 50 metre plus Superyacht. In fact, a quick Google search reveals about 11,900,000 results on how to anchor a recreational vessel!

After a lifetime around boats and having owned sail boats, trailer boats and launches, in addition to over twenty years as the Sales Manager of Maxwell Marine based in New Zealand, I feel I know a bit about anchoring. When it comes to safe and proper anchoring there are only two things you need to achieve. 1) Avoid dragging. 2) Don’t crash into other anchored boats while you’re swinging on your anchor.

Yes, it really is that simple!

SO, HOW DO YOU GO ABOUT SAFELY AND PROPERLY ANCHORING YOUR BOAT? First you need to keep in mind the following guidelines in order to achieve the two criteria mentioned above.

1. Determine the water depth and sea (lake) bed type in the location where you want to drop your anchor.

2. Calculate the correct amount of anchor scope* (a minimum 7:1 ratio is recommended).

3. Lower (feed out) the anchor and rode (don’t just ‘dump’ it all off the bow) and let out enough scope. Then secure the rope to a bow cleat or chain stopper. Do NOT anchor off your windlass!

More on this later.

4. Ensure there is no drag—use landmarks or onboard electronics to judge movement.

5. If need be, reset the anchor. * Scope is defined as the ratio of the length of deployed anchor rode to the depth of the water.

Yes, it really is that simple!

SO, WHY DO SO MANY PEOPLE DRAG THEIR ANCHOR AND SWING INTO OTHER BOATS WHILE ANCHORED IN A BAY FILLED WITH OTHER BOATS? Before proceeding with actual anchoring “technique” let’s discuss the two important components required in order to safely and properly anchor your boat.

• Anchors • Rodes (all chain, all rope or a combination of chain and rope)

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ANCHORING FOR DUMMIES

Anchors There are lots of different anchors but I have sorted most of the common anchors into five major categories; the Hook, Plough, Fluke, Claw and Scoop which are, for the most part, what you will find.

So what are these anchors types, how do they work and which is best for your particular boat and your typical anchoring? There are no easy answers and I can only provide guidelines

Manson Plough anchor

Lewmar LFX Fluke anchor A typical hook anchor.

Hook:

These are your best option for large rock and coral bottoms, but are lousy in other environments. The classic reef version has light prongs that can bend under strain to release or have a trip ring, whereas the grapnel is available with folding flutes for ease of storage (particularly in dinghies). They’re also good for retrieving primary anchors that may become fouled.

Plough:

Also known as a CQR (‘secure’), the plough-style design is a good allrounder that generally sits neatly in a boat’s bow roller, but can be a pain to store otherwise. They have a hinged shank that allows the anchor to turn with direction changes. Another style, known as a Delta, employs a rigid shank. Thanks to their weight they tend to set easily, particularly in mud or weed. The addition of a roll bar prevents the anchor from lying upsidedown (refer below).

Sometimes known as the Bruce, after designer Peter Bruce added three claws to the basic plough design to improve self-orientation and holding power when tide or wind changes were prevalent. Being fairly blunt, the claws don’t perform well on certain bottom types and are prone to fouling.

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With flat, triangular-shaped pivoting flukes, the ‘Danforth’ or sand anchor has great holding power per pound of any style of anchor. The lightweight and compact design also makes it easy to retrieve and store. They don’t like gravel or weeds, having a tendency to skate over the bottom, and on some occasions they might drag instead of resetting.

SARCA classic galvanised anchor

Savwinch Claw slider anchor

Claw:

Fluke:

Scoop:

As with most things marine, there are specialised versions of a basic theme.

The Sand and Rock Combination Anchor (often referred to as the SARCA, for example, rolls over to allow its toe to penetrate like a fluke, and it incorporates a self-tripping mechanism to ensure recovery making it a good all-rounder.

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There are others, of course such as the traditional stock anchor (the type most of us still probably visualise today when someone mentions an anchor), naval stockless anchor (mainly used on naval and commercial vessels) and the mushroom type, but these are seldom used by recreational boaters these days.

A old style traditional anchor.

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A mushroom anchor

SO, WHICH ONE DO YOU SELECT? Well, in many cases you may want to consider having a primary anchor (the one you use to anchor safely and stress free overnight) and a ‘day anchor’, used for temporarily anchoring your boat while fishing, for example. The most common ‘day anchor; is probably the Hook type, often referred to, funnily enough, as the fisherman hook anchor. From my experience, probably to most commonly used anchor now a days is the scoop type and most anchor manufacturers supply a variation of this sort of anchor. It is popular as it allows secure anchoring in wide varieties and types of seabed. Ultimately there is not a ‘one type suits all conditions’ anchor. When it comes to an opinion as to which is the best type of anchor to use, like fundamental orifices, everyone has one. Opinion, that is. And often it is a case of trial and error to find out what suits your type of boating and where you most often anchor. At the end of the day, if you end up with two or three different anchors on board your vessel, there is nothing wrong with having a backup.

And as with most things maritime, all are only as good as the operator. Anchoring is a skill that can be improved with practice and performed perfectly when the appropriate hardware is at hand. The reward is peace of mind and a restful sleep.

At the very least boaties should always have the primary anchor ready to drop in an emergency. When all else fails, the cheapest part of the boating equation will suddenly become the most valuable.

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ANCHORING FOR DUMMIES

Rodes The word comes from the old name for the anchor warp or cable of a coasting schooner. The term is said to be derived from roadstead, the place where such craft normally anchored.

For this discussion think of the rode as a chain, a rope or a chain and rope combination, that connects the anchor to your boat. By the way, always make sure that the bitter end of the rode is securely fastened to your boat.

Duh! Sounds obvious, right? But, you would be amazed how many times I’ve witnessed someone anchoring and not realising they were at the end of their rode and that the bitter end was not fastened to the boat, let go all their rode, consequently often losing both their anchor and rode onto the sea bottom. An expensive replacement exercise to say the least, if said ‘anchoring package’ could not be salvaged.

As an interesting aside, we have probably all heard of or used the expression; “to the bitter end”.

Fascinatingly, the term comes from nautical origins: To pay a rope or chain out to the bitter end means that all has been paid out and no more remains to let go.

There are three types of rodes, rope only, chain only and the combination of rope and chain. There are advantages and disadvantages in using one of the above three rodes. So which is best? Well, that really depends on a number of factors. But in simplistic diagrammatical terms, first see the illustration below.

Possibly, the only word you may not be familiar with is ‘catenary’. Yet this

is a vitally important consideration for successful anchoring.

So, what does it mean? It is the curve of the anchor cable as it lies between the anchor and the sea bottom and the vessel which lies to it. The deeper the curve, the more the catenary. A good catenary is essential for two reasons, the first being that the eventual pull on the anchor is as horizontal as possible, which tends to bury the anchor flukes deeper into the ground: the second being that with the elasticity provided by a deep curve in the cable a vessel is prevented from snubbing * her anchor as she rides to a sea. It is for this reason that most anchor cables, except in very small craft, are made of chain, where the weight of the chain tends to form a natural catenary.

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Another simple way of improving catenary is with a ‘kellet’.

Among the cruising sailor’s bag of tricks is a ‘kellet’, a weight lowered via a retrieval line to halfway along the anchor rode, thereby dampening the shock.

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*Snubbing. Is the word used to describe the action of a ship when she pitches while at anchor and the cable tautens to such an extent that it holds the bow down at the top of the pitch. It is apt to occur when there is insufficient scope to the cable and is easily corrected by paying out more rode.

Having said all this, it should now be fairly obvious that the best rode is all chain of appropriate length and diameter best suited for your boat and your usual anchoring circumstances. However, as with everything in life, compromise is often necessary. For example, you may have a 7 metre trailer boat on which you’d really like to have about 150 metres of all 8 mm short link chain on board; because a lot of the time you’re out fishing in deep water and you don’t want to drift off your favourite “fishing spot”. Rewind. “Hmmm, I’m going to anchor on this 25 metre fishing spot for the morning, when the advice is that I should lay out seven times the amount of rode compared to the depth of water I’m anchoring in. Damn, that’s 175 metres of all chain and I can barely get 140 metres of chain in my chain locker as it is. In addition, with all that chain up forward, my bow is dramatically dipping down when underway and I’m constantly having to use my trim tabs to keep the boat on the right plane”. Solution? A combination chain/rope rode.

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Before proceeding, it will be valuable to discuss the very important “sea bottom” aspect of anchoring. Although it may seem obvious; how you anchor and what type of anchor you might most often use is very dependent on what the sea bottom is like. Is it sand, mud, shell, rock, gravel, weedy or a combination of several of the aforementioned? When I started sailing many decades ago, satellite navigation (never mind GPS navigation) was in its infancy and we relied solely on marine charts (those old detailed paper things with topographical drawings of the coast line conveying a plethora of information, if you were prepared to take the time to learn how to read them).

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ANCHORING FOR DUMMIES

On recreational boats up to about 20m, a rope/chain rode has become the most popular choice over the last couple of decades. by the, then, newly developing anchor winches. What is commonly now known as a Rope/Chain Anchor Winch.

tell you what type of bottom you can expect when it comes to anchoring in an unknown bay for the night.

The table below not only shows the various bottom types but also the abbreviations used on nautical charts.

In addition, the bottom texture and colour texture are also illustrated.

Taken all together, you are given a valuable insight into how best to set your anchor in any given seabed, which is very important for securely setting your anchor. Dragging your anchor in the middle of a dark night, with the wind howling, the rain pouring down, the kids screaming, the wife turning pale, bearing down on other anchored boats and getting ever closer to the wave beaten rocks is definitely not what you want!

Rope/Chain Rodes:

It is safe to say that on recreational boats up to about 20 metres, a rope/ chain rode has become the most popular choice over the last couple of decades. There is good reason for this. Basically, many of the advantages of an all chain rode combined with the advantage of less weight in the bow and the ability to get a lot more rode in a given anchor (‘rode’) locker space.

About 25 years ago the accepted wisdom regarding rope/chain rodes was that the chain was connected to the rope by means of a chain shackle and eye spliced rope.

However, back in the mid-nineties, anchor winch manufacturers started experimenting with a spliced rope to chain connection for a more or less seamless rope/chain combination anchor rode that could be retrieved

The table not only shows the various bottom types but also the abbreviations used on nautical charts.

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Interestingly, just prior to the advent of the now widely accepted and used rope/chain windlasses, the New Zealand company, Maxwell Marine (back in those days known as Maxwell Winches) had developed, patented, manufactured and sold an automatic rope/chain windlass in the early nineties that was able to handle a conventional rope eye splice/thimble and chain shackle connection. It was extremely innovative technology which actually worked very well, but was quite expensive. And, although it was manufactured and sold for a few years, its limited sales eventually halted production and it was withdrawn from the market.

But back to the rope/chain splice solution. It is no exaggeration to say that the acceptance and subsequent wide spread use of the rope to chain splice absolutely revolutionised the use of automatic anchor winches on small trailer boats beginning in the early nineteen nineties and continuing through until today on boats up to about 15 to 20 metres.

Basically splicing the rope portion of the anchor rode directly to the chain portion, thus eliminating the cumbersome eye splice/thimble and shackle connection almost universally used up until this point in time, but problematic in regards to automatic windlass retrieval of the anchor. These days, all windlass manufacturers offer a wide range of rope/chain windlasses for every type of recreational (and often commercial e.g. fishing) boats.

Learning to safely anchor your boat is an important and fundamental skill of seamanship that every boat owner needs to master. The ability to moor safely comes from the ability to firmly set an anchor. Setting an anchor is not difficult, it just takes a little time and

patience. You can’t just roar into an anchorage and throw your anchor over the side as soon as you have decided where you want to be parked up. There are some simple rules and etiquette that you should observe to make the anchoring task that much easier, safer and certainly less embarrassing.

Before deciding where you want to anchor, slowly cruise around the anchoring site and check the boats already at anchor, to ensure you have enough room to swing. The usual custom when anchoring in a bay is ‘first in, first served’. If you’re late to the anchorage and the wind and/ or tide changes and you get too close to someone else who was there first, you are the one expected to move, not them.

Allow adequate room around the spot where you wish to anchor. Remember that power vessels swing differently than yachts. Boats on rope rodes swing around more than those on chain.

Wind affects launches with big flying bridges more than low profile boats.

And yachts are affected by tidal flows

A typical example of a rope/chain drum reel anchor winch from Viper, suitable for use on a trailer boat.

sooner and are more reactive, due to their keels, than are launches. These factors all mean that boats will hang off their anchors differently.

As you cruise around the bay slow down and keep the bow into the wind, or current, whichever is stronger and as your boat comes to a complete stop, start to lower the anchor. Emphasis is on ‘lowering’ the anchor, not dropping it off the bow.

As you lower the anchor (feeding it and the rode out either by hand or with the use of your anchor winch, depending on your boat size) either drift back or slowly reverse while paying out the anchor rode, in order to ensure the anchor is set (holding firm). If you do

this properly you will know when your well hooked in as your boat will jerk to a standstill and then pull forward before it settles into its final position for the night. Knowing what type of sea bottom lies below you will be an important factor when ‘setting’ your anchor. For example, a deep, firm mud bottom is far preferable to a hard rocky, boulder strewn bottom.

The amount of anchor rode you pay out should always be at least five to seven times the depth of water in which you are anchoring. Refer also to catenary section of this article below.

Remember, you’ve already bought all your rode, so it is not costing you any more money to lay out lots of it! All things considered, generally the more the better.

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ANCHORING FOR DUMMIES Do not switch off the engine until you are sure the anchor is set (holding firm). The engine may not restart.

Use buoys as reference points if they are available or, if close to shore, use prominent landmarks to check you are holding your position. Selecting at least three distinct landmarks allows you to triangulate your position and monitor any drag. And don’t forget to continually check on other boats around you; they may drift in the wind and tide quite differently than you do.

The sailboat that seemed well off to your port bow once you’ve anchored, may suddenly be almost on top of you.

being transmitted up your chain and onto your boat, but dampened by the rope snubber. Even if you are using a chain stopper with an all chain rode, the use of a snubber will eliminate noise and help alleviate the annoying jerking at the bow as your boat pulls up on the anchor during wind gusts, etc.

Using a snubber on the chain portion of your rode when you are underway, with the anchor secured in the bow roller is further insurance that your anchor will not self-launch itself as you crash through a heavy sea.

Your boat should always be anchored via the bow. Although it is not uncommon (especially in Scandinavian countries) to anchor a vessel both bow and stern.

Once anchored, secure your anchor rode with the chain stopper or secure to a deck cleat or bollard with a hitch that is easy to cast off. Do not anchor off your winch. The anchor winch is designed to retrieve and launch the anchor and rode, not act as a mooring post, cleat or bollard. On the other hand, windlass manufacturers love people who anchor off their winch as eventually this will lead to damage to the windlass and expensive repairs.

Not to mention, that no matter how hard you secure the chainwheel on your windlass, there is a chance that the chainwheel may slip and the rode slowly (or quickly) pay out, especially if the wind gets up in the night and your anchor is well dug in. Always take the load of the rode off the anchor winch and onto a cleat. That is easy with rope but if you have all chain, get a chain snubber. A snubber is a length of rope, often with a chain hook on the end.

Anchor Chain Snubber You’ll be pleased you did. When your boat bounces on the rode (especially a chain rode) the winch and gearbox don’t like the hammering they get.

Fitting a chain snubber is much cheaper than replacing worn gears or having to replace a bent windlass shaft.

Another bonus for you is that if you are anchored on a rocky or boulder bottom, you will effectively eliminate the noise of the chain scrapping across the rocks all night as the noise is not PACIFIC PASSAGEMAKER ANNUAL 2022

Fitting a chain snubber is much cheaper than replacing worn gears or a bent windlass shaft.

Have a small buoy handy, which you can tie to the end of your anchor rode in case you have to slip your anchor.

You will then be able to hopefully recover your anchor and rode later.

Always consider an exit option just in case the weather conditions change overnight and you have to move out to another anchorage. When doing this you should also take note of the tides, because when the tide is low it may not be possible to retrace your same passage into the bay. The process of retrieving an anchor is nearly the reverse of placing it. If everything is right in the world, the rode will be vertical in position and the flukes of the anchor will come free of the bottom.

If the anchor doesn’t come free immediately, there are a couple things that can be tried. Have the operator reposition the boat to give the anchor stock a pull from a different direction.

A couple of pulls from different angles is usually enough to solve the problem.

Another trick is to use an anchor trip line. Most anchors have an attachment point for a trip line. It is at a point on the anchor where a pull on the line will back the anchor out of the bottom.

If the anchor catches, don’t force it.

The windlass circuit-breaker is likely to trigger if you do. Snub the line and 162

release the windlass clutch to reduce the pressure. Motor gently forward with the snubbing rope attached and the anchor should break out - if not, try steering at 45-degrees to one side or other. A ‘trip line’ system can be deployed, comprising a ring that goes down over the crown of the anchor; you can then either pull from the dinghy or use a flotation buoy. If all else fails, cut the line at its lowest point and weight the bitter end to prevent other boats tangling with it.

Use your anchor winch only with the boat motor running. Winches are gluttons for amps and will very quickly flatten the batteries, given a chance.

If you have given the winch a good run it can be advisable to run the boat motor for a bit to top up the batteries again afterwards. Anchor winches are made to pull up anchors from the seabed and not boats to the anchors.

If you are anchored in a breeze or tide, use the motor to idle up to the anchor and then use the winch to pull up the anchor. Winching the boat up to the anchor puts the winch (and batteries) under unnecessary load, causing circuit breakers to blow and excess winch wear at best. Over the years I have constantly been amazed by the number of boaties who use a 1,000 watt electric winch motor to pull their 10 ton launch up to the anchor when they likely have a cronking great 500 hp diesel motor powering their vessel!

Finally, always continue to check your position frequently when at anchor.

You may still drag despite all your precautions. Your boat’s electronics can also serve as a sentry. If your GPS has an anchor alarm, set it to alert that the boat is swinging too far from the original position, the concern being that the anchor will have to reset itself.

Electronic compasses and autopilots can also tell if the boat’s heading changes radically, while a depth sounder should have an alarm for minimum depth.

At night, anchor lights must be switched on so other vessels can see you. It’s an all-round white light with a visibility of at least two nautical miles. Remember too, it is illegal to anchor in shipping channels or tie up to navigational aids such as channel markers or buoys.

I trust that this article will prove valuable and by employing the suggestions and guidelines presented, you will enjoy secure, safe anchoring and sleep peacefully at night.

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5

SAFETY & SURVIVAL DEVICES for 2022 AN EPIRB OR PERSONAL LOCATOR BEACON CAN TAKE THE SEARCH OUT OF SEARCH AND RESCUE

Historically, among the last equipment on boaters’ lists to buy are devices that can save their lives and those of their passengers. In most cases the reason is simply that capsizing at sea and treading water for who knows how long is uncomfortable to think about — and besides “that will never happen to me.”

Boaties who’ve grown up on the water know differently. It can and does happen, usually with no warning — and then it’s too late to prepare. Safety and survival equipment works. And as Coast Guard search and rescue teams remind us: it’s cheap insurance.

Below are two Emergency Position-Indicating Radio Beacons (EPIRBs) and a pair of Personal Survival Devices that will make sure all onboard make it home safely.

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EP I R Bs MCMURDO SMARTFIND G8 The world’s first EPIRB with dual distress alerting, using 406 MHz to contact professional search & rescue via CospasSarsat, while simultaneously using AIS (Automatic Identification System) to alert nearby vessels to support localized recovery.

Combined with its dual GPS & Galileo GNSS (Global Navigation Satellite System) receivers for a truly globally accurate location fix and a 121.5-MHz homing frequency, the design is focused on accelerated rescue. With a minimum 48-hour activation, water or manual activation switch, 10-year battery, optimized MEOSAR (Mid-Earth Orbit Search and Rescue) capabilities and internal carry strap, the G8 is one of the most powerful distress beacons on the market.

SIMRAD EP70

Simrad’s EP70 GPS-EPIRB safety and rescue locator beacons maximise the chances of user survival and recovery by providing rapid notification to rescue authorities of distress situations, enabling them to use satellite location technology with extreme accuracy anywhere in the world. Highly rated by maritime professionals as well as recreational users, the Simrad EP70 range of EPIRBs is designed to be used as a primary alarm for vessels in distress, and when activated, transmit the ID of the ship in distress. The unique high-intensity LED built into the top of the antenna ensures optimal visibility in the toughest conditions.

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P e r so nal Sur viv al Devices

GARMIN GPSMAP 86SCI Cast off confidently with the GPSMAP 86sci. This premium, floating handheld has a sunlight-readable 3-inch color display and preloaded BlueChart g3 coastal charts with integrated Navionics data. Stay in touch anywhere with inReach satellite communication capabilities, two-way text messaging and interactive SOS. Share your position using GPS-based location tracking. Wireless connectivity makes GPSMAP 86sci a virtual extension of your onboard marine system, displaying boat data from compatible chartplotters and instruments. It also functions as a remote control for convenient operation of your Garmin autopilot and Fusion marine products. Its adjustable GPS filter smooths speed and heading indications over swells. The internal, rechargeable lithium battery provides up to 35 hours of operation in 10-minute tracking mode and up to 200 hours in expedition mode.

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ACR ELECTRONICS RESQLINK ACR Electronics next-generation ResQLink Personal Locator Beacons (PLB) is the latest evolution of the world’s best-selling PLB. Bringing the benefits of ACR’s unique digital display capabilities to ResQLink users for the first time, the ResQLink View with Optical Display Technology adds even more reassurance and peace of mind to outdoor enthusiasts. The screen displays all the beacon’s operational activities, including GPS coordinates, operating instructions, usage tips, transmission bursts, as well as battery power.

The PLBs also include a new infra-red strobe light in addition to the ultrabright strobe light to assist rescue crews using night vision goggles.

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MCMURDO FASTFIND RLS The world’s first PLB (Personal Locator Beacon) to offer the Return Link Service (RLS) reassurance signal back to the user, confirming with a blue flashing light the receipt of your distress call and that the user’s location is known.

The FastFind Return Link uses the familiar false alert three-stage activation process, but has added a new pouch and belt clip design and includes the global location accuracy of combined GPS and Galileo GNSS receivers to ensure greater global coverage and accelerated location detection.

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BUCCANEER Buccaneer 440 Esprite Buccaneer 550 Billfisher Bucccaner 550 Enforcer AB RIBS Buccaneer 550 Classic AB 15VST Buccaneer 565 Classic ADVENTURE Buccaneer 565 Exess Adventure 1450CC Buccaneer 565 Billfisher Adventure 1430D Buccaneer 605 Exess ALLENCO Buccaneer 630 Enforcer Allenco 6.25HT Buccaneer 635 Exess HT AMF Buccaneer 650 Billfisher AMF Pro Sport 660 Buccaneer 650 Esprite AMF 720 Pro Sport Buccaneer 685 Exess AMF 660 Hardtop Buccaneer 685 El Dorado ASIS Buccaneer 735 Billfisher Asis 8.4 Amphibious (video) Buccaneer 735 Exess AQUALINE Buccaneer 735 Sportsman Aqualine 595HT CAMPION Aqualine 645 HT Campion Victoria 627 Aqualine 545 CC CHALLENGER AQUALITE Challenger 565 Aqualite 665HT Challenger 680 HT AGAPI Challenger 680 WA Agapi 800 CHAPARRAL AQUAPRO Chaparral 244 Sunesta Aquapro 1401 Seamaster Chaparral 210 Sun Coast ASSAULT CHRIS CRAFT Assault 1050HT Chris Craft Launch 29 Assault 850 Mid Cabin Chris Craft Launch 27 Assault 890HT CIRCA Assault Pursuit 11 Circa 950 ATOMIX COBALT Atomix 820 Cobalt CS22 Atomix 600TT Cobalt R5 WSS Surf BARCHETTA COBRA Barchetta 409 R Cobra TS2 Barchetta 502 EC Cobra Statesman 770 Barchetta 502 XR COMMANDO Barchetta 552 XC Commando 3.9 Scout BAYLINER Commando 3.9 Cuddy Bayliner 1700 OB Commando Trooper 5.4 Bayliner 175 Flight COUGAR Bayliner 175BR Cougar R8 & R9 RIB Bayliner 185 Bowrider CROWNLINE Bayliner 195 BR Crownline 220SS Surf Bayliner 225 Crownline E235 Surf Bayliner 642 Overnighter Crownline E275XS Bayliner VR5 Crownline 264CR Bluefin 665HT Crownline 290CR BENETEAU CRUISE CRAFT Beneteau Barracuda 9 Cruise Craft 685 HT BIG EYE Cruise Craft Explorer 625 Big Eye 585 HT CSB HUNTSMAN BLADERUNNER CSB Huntsman 500 Bladerunner 8.5 Powercat CSB Huntsman Crusader BLUEWATER CSB Huntsman Dorado Gen1 Blue Water 550 Cuddy CSB Huntsman Dorado Gen3 Blue Water 650 CSB Huntsman Explorer Blue Water 750 Gamefisher CSB Huntsman SD7 Blue Water 770 CSB Huntsman Sotali Blue Water 930 CSB Huntsman Xcalibur BLUEFIN CSD Huntsman Centurion Bluefin 525 Fisherman DICKEY Bluefin 525 CC Dickey 750XS Bluefin 665 Offshore DIYNO Bluefin 600 Fisho DIYNO 701 Bluefin 620 Hardtop DNA Bluefin 720 Lockup DNA 450C Bluefin 780 Weekender DNA 480XC BONITO DNA 500 CC Bonito 485 Sprint DNA 550 Sport Bonito 485 Chico DNA 570 XHT Bonito 535 BR DNA 590 XHT Bonito 535 Cabin DNA 630 XHT Bonito Sting 550 DNA 730 HT BOSTON WHALER DNA 801 Custom Boston Whaler 285 Conquest DNA 821 HT Boston Whaler 315 Conquest DOMINATOR BRIG Dominator 720CC Brig 7000 Navigator DORAL

Grady White Journey 258 Doral 185BR Grady White Freedom 275 ELLIOTT HAINES HUNTER Elliott Evo 660 Haines Hunter SF485 ENDURO Haines Hunter SF635 Enduro 4100 Haines Hunter SF700 Enduro 6400 Haines Hunter SF725 EURO HAINES SIGNATURE Euro Sport Series III RIB Haines Signature 485SF EVERYMAN Haines Signature 520 Everyman 650 Profish Haines Traveller TF185 Everyman 750 Gamefisher Haines Traveller TC540 EXPLORER HAMILTON JET Explorer Panther 340 Jet Explorer Viking 420 Jet RIB Jet 470 Explorer 6000 Bluewater RIB HIGHFIELD Explorer Bluewater 610 RIB Highfield 5.4 Patrol Highfield 660 Patrol Explorer Bluewater 7m RIB HURRICANE EXTREME Hurricane Fundeck 196 Extreme 620 Sportfisher Hurricane Fundeck 236F Extreme 635 Sport fisher.

IMAGE Extreme 745 Game King Image 7.08 Pontoon Extreme 885 Game King Image 8.5 Fishmaster FAT CAT Image 8.75 Fishmaster Fat Cat 4000 Image 930 Fishmaster Fat Cat 5000 Image 9.25 Cruisemaster FC BOATS INNOVISION FC 430 Innovision Sports 515 FC 500 CC Innovision Explorer 585 FC 535 CC Innovision Explorer 606 FC 540 Innovision Explorer 616 FC 580 Cuddy JP RIBS FC 595 Cabin JP Ribs Custom 800 FC 597 Hardtop KINGFISHER FC 600 CC Kingfisher 650 Striking FC 610 HT KING WATERCRAFT FC 700 HT King Watercraft 4.3 FENTON KIWI KRAFT Fenton 770 AMPH Kiwi Kraft 520 Fisherman FI GLASS Kiwi Kraft 590 HT Fi Glass Cavalier Kiwi Kraft 620 HT Fi Glass Ski Angler LAMONT Fi Glass Dominator Lamont T430 Fi Glass Fireball LARSON Fi Glass Firestar Larson 240 Cabrio Fi Glass Lightning Larson Senza 206 Fi Glass Warrior LAZERCRAFT Fi Glass Warrior 640 HT Lazercraft GT 580 Sport FINLAY Lazercraft 580 Dive Master Finlay Sports 5900 Lazercraft 620 Finlay Escape 5900 Lazercraft GT 640 Sport Finlay Ignite 6300 Lazercraft 650 HT Finlay Ranger 8000 Lazercraft 700 HT FINNSEEKER Lazercraft 720 Sports GT Finnseeker 220CC Lazercraft 930 HT FOUR WINNS Four Winns 205 Sundowner Lazercraft 996 MALIBU FREWZA Malibu Wakesetter VLX Frewza F14 Fisher MARCO Frewza F16 Marco 460 Frewza F18 Fisher Marco 530 Frewza F21 Hardtop Marco 550 BR FYRAN Marco 625 Souwester Fyran 550 Marco 650 WA Fyran 580 Horizon Marco 760 Souwester Fyran 599 Pontoon Marco 800 Souwester Fyran 600 Horizon Maxum 1800 SR3 Fyran 645 Pursuit MAGNUM Fyran 660 HT Magnum F15 Fyran 695 Pursuit Magnum 1650 Fyran 760 Pursuit GT MAVERICK GEMINI Maverick Renegade Gemini 850 Wave Rider MCLAY GLASTRON McLay Softie 470 Glastron GC185 McLay 581 CrossXover Glastron GTL205 McLay 591 XL Sportsman GRADY WHITE Grady White Adventure 208 McLay 610 Sport McLay 651 CrossXover 2 Grady White 226 McLay 690HT Grady White 228 Grady White Fisherman 236 McLay 701 Premier HT Grady White Fisherman 257 McLay 701 Gen 2 Cruiser

McLay 725 Cruiser HT McLay 741 Raptor McLay 735S Cruiser McLay 775 HT McLay 851 Gen 2 MERCURY Mercury 4700 MIDWEST Midwest 5.8 MODA Moda C-8000 Powercat MONTEREY Monterey 217 Blackfin MUSTANG Mustang 2000 Bluewater Mustang 2150 Walkaround Mustang 2250 Bluewater NAIAD Naiad-Kirby 10m CC NAUTIQUE Nautique Air 210 Nautique Air 220 Nautique Air SV -211 NULINE Nuline 4.5 DG Nuline 48CC OFFSHORE Offshore 650 ORCA Orca 6.2 Sportfisher POLYCRAFT Polycraft 410 & 455 PINNACLE Pinnacle 720 PROFILE Profile 635 HT PUREKRAFT Purekraft 550 CC Purekraft 600 CC Purekraft 650 HT Purekraft 700 HT Purekraft 770 Diesel QUINTREX Quintrex 440 Renegade SC Quintrex 510 & 580 Legends Qunitrex 470 Coast Runner RAELINE Raeline 185 Raeline 186 Raeline 205 OB RAMCO Ramco Profisher 1700 HT Ramco Interceptor 580 Ramco Fisherman 601 HT Ramco Sportfisher 650 Ramco Explorer 760 Ramco Predator 620 RANGER TUGS Ranger Tug 29 RAYGLASS Rayglass Legend 650 Rayglass Legend 850 Rayglass 2200 Rayglass 730 Rayglass Cruisemaster 850 Rayglass Legend 2350 Rayglass Legend 2500 Rayglass Legend 2800 Rayglass Projet Rayglass Protector 9m REFLEX Reflex Chianti 485 Reflex Cobalt FX Reflex Chianti 585 Reflex SZ585 Reflex Reefrunner REGAL Regal 2000 BR RIBCO Ribco R28 ROBALO

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Robalo R222EX Robalo 247 RINKER Rinker 212 Festiva SARONIC Saronic SX6 SAVAGE Savage 580 Bluewater SCORPION Scorpion 470 Mk2 Scorpion 195XS Scorpion 535 Cuddy Scorpion Crusader 605HT SCOUT Scout 222 Sportfish SEA NYMPH Sea Nymph 480 Sport Sea Nymph 580 Regal Sea Nymph 640 TT Blazer Sea Nymph 620 Hustler Sea Nymph 635 Oasis SEA RAY Sea Ray 190 BR Sea Ray SPX 210 Sea Ray 230 Wake Sea Ray 265 Sundancer Sea Ray 280 SLX Sea Ray Sundancer 370 SEALEGS Sealegs 6.1 RIB Sealegs Electric E4 Sealegs RS 7.1 RIB Sealegs 7.5 Semi-Cab RIB Sealegs 750 Hydrasol RIB Sealegs 8.5 Alloy Cabin Sealegs 9000 Interceptor RIB SEALVER Sealver WB525 Sealver WB656 SEABOSS Seaboss 620HT Seaboss 700 SEAFARER Seafarer 4.3 RIB SEAFORCE Seaforce 430 Winna Seaforce 530 Skipa Seaforce 530 Ute Seaforce 530 Mate Seaforce 575 Seaforce 645HT Seaforce Discovery SEASWIRL Seaswirl 1851 WA Seaswirl 2101 DC Seaswirl 2601 WA SENATOR Senator 1700 ProSport Senator RH 690 Senator RH 650 Senator RH 800 SMUGGLER Smuggler Bowrider 570 Smuggler Sting 570 Smuggler Multisport 570 Smuggler Hardtop 620 Smuggler Stealth 665 Smuggler Kingfisher 670 Smuggler Stealth 689 XS Smuggler Stealth 720 Smuggler Strata 750 Smuggler Strata 750 MidCabin Smuggler Strata 550 Smuggler Strata 770 Smuggler Strata 780 SS Smuggler Strata 820 RIB Smuggler Strata 770 MidCabin Smuggler Strata 900 SOUTHERN Southern 646 XP HTO Southern XF676

ONLINE BOAT REVIEWS Southern XP716 Southern TT756 Southern HTO XP 776 Southernsportz 770HTE Southern XP816 Southern XP856 Southern XP 896 SOUTHERN PACIFIC Southern Pacific Prodigy 490 Southern Pacific Cormorant 550 Southern Pacific Cormorant 600 Southern Pacific 750 Vortex RIB STACER Stacer 429 Seamaster STABICRAFT Stabicraft 1600 Frontier & Fisher Stabicraft 2050 Superca Stabicraft 2100 SC Stabicraft 2100ST Stabicraft 2600 Supercab Stabicraft 409 Fish’r Stabicraft 509 WXR Stabicraft 533 Stabicraft 589XR Stabicraft 593XR Stabicraft 759 Supercab Stabicraft 2250 Ultracab WT Stabicraft 2500 Ultracab XL STEADECRAFT Steadecraft 635 Capreece STEALTH Stealth 605 SURTEES Surtees 5.5 Hardtop Surtees 610 Hardtop Surtees 610 Game Fisher Surtees 6.7 Weekender Surtees 6.7 Coastal Explorer Surtees 700 Gamefisher Surtees 7.3 Gamefisher Surtees 750 Open Cabin Surtees 750 Gamefisher Surtees 8.5 Game Fisher Surtees 750 Gamefisher TAKACAT Takacat T460LX TERMINATOR Terminator 755SF TRISTRAM Tristram 640 Cabriolet Tristram 641 Offshore Tristram 661 Millennium Tristram 690 Cabriolet Tristram 701 Vanquish Tristram 741 Offshore Tristram 781 Ultimo Tristram 881 Offshore ULTIMATE Ultimate 21 Ultimate 21 Elite VIPER Viper 1800 BR WHITE POINTER White Pointer 7.5 Sport HT White Pointer 730 Sport White Pointer 750 Hardtop White Pointer 970 Cruiser White Pointer 1050 Hardtop YAMAHA Yamaha Waverunner GP1800

LAUNCHES & CRUISERS ABSOLUTE Absolute Navetta 48 Absolute Coupe 48 Absolute Navetta 58 ACTIVA Activa 5100 Activa 5400

ADMIRAL Admiral 10m ALAN TONGS Elite AT43 ALASKA Alaska 46 FB Gen II Alaska 46 Sedan Gen II Alaska 47 Sedan Alaska 49 Sedan Alaska 57 PH ALLOY YACHTS Como VVS1 AQUABAY Aquabay 70 AQUILA Aquila 36 Sport Cat AZIMUT Azimut Atlantis 34 Azimut 50 Azimut 62E Azimut Magellano 66 BACK COVE Back Cove 34 Back Cove 37 Back Cove Downeast 37 Back Cove 390 BELIZE Belize 54 Daybridge Belize 54 Sedan Belize 66 Sedan BERTRAM Bertram 670E BOSTON WHALER Boston Whaler 285 Conquest Boston Whaler 315 Conquest BRAVA POWERCATS Brava 45 CARTER Carter 56 CATALYST Catalyst 15m CABO Cabo 40 FB Cabo 40 Express Cabo 48 Flybridge CARBON CAT Carbon Cat 20 CARIBBEAN Carribbean 47 FB CARVER Carver C37 Coupe Carver C43 CHAPARRAL Chaparral 327 SSX CHEOY LEE Serenity 68 CIRCA Circa 24 - Mollymauk CLIPPER Hudson Bay 32 Hudson Bay 39 Hudson Bay 50 Explorer 43 Cordova 45 Cordova 48 Explorer 50 PH Cordova 52 Cordova 60 COMPOSITES CONST Cape 50 DICKEY Dickey 32 Semifly Dickey 36 Semifly Dickey 45 Semifly Dickey LRC 58 DORAL Alegria XL ELANDRA Elandra 53 ELITE Elite 12m - Mazara Elite 13m - Bell Aria Elite 13m - Tasman Jewel

Elite 14.8 - Vacanza Elite 15.2m - Luana Elite 15.2m - Sahara Elite 15.5m - Humdinger Elite 16m - Joandra Elite 16m - Maeve Elite 16m- Boudica Elite 17m - Convivial Elite 17.2m - Highlander Elite 18m - Antipodes Elite 18m - Antiquity Elite 18m- Coastal Cowboy Elite 18m - Vanquish Elite 18m - Crazy Diamond Elite 19.2m - Westpoint Elite 19.8m - Lady Alison EVERYMAN Everyman 1080 EXPLORER Explorer FB Sedan 52 FAIRLINE Fairline Targa 47 Fairline Phantom 48 Fairline Squadron 65 FLEMING Fleming Corvette 340 Fleming 58 Fleming 65 Classic Fleming 78 Classic Fleming 78 FOCUS Focus Power 33 FORMULA Formula Icon 42 Formula Icon 54 Formula Icon 58SF FOUNTAINE PAJOT Summerland 40 Motor Yacht 44 Cumberland 47 Fountaine Pajot 67 Power FUSION Prowler 10.4 Prowler 10.8 SF GALEON Galeon 460 Galeon 510 Fly GENESIS Genesis 400 Targa Genesis 52V Cruise GRADY WHITE Grady White Marlin 300 Grady White Express 330 Grady White Express 370 Grady White Canyon 376 GRAND BANKS Grand Banks Heritage 41 Grand Banks Heritage 47 Grand Banks GB53 Grand Banks GB54 Grand Banks GB60 Grand Banks Aleutian 65 HAMPTON Hampton 680 Pilothouse Hampton 700 Skylounge Hampton 680 Pilothouse Hampton 720 Skylounge Hampton 750 Endurance Hampton 750 HATTERAS Hatteras 45 Hatteras GT54 Hatteras 60 HERLEY Herley Electric 3400 HIGH SEAS High Seas 54 HORIZON Horizon PC52 Horizon 52 Tournament Horizon Vision E54 Horizon PC60 Horizon 65 Horizon 66 Bandido Horizon 68 Vision Horizon V68

Horizon E70 Horizon E73 Horizon EP77 Horizon V81 Horizon 84 Horizon FD85 Horizon FD87 Skyline ICON Icon 433 Sportfisher Icon R533 Icon R545 ILIAD Iliad 50 Iliad 70 INTEGRITY Integrity 320 Sedan Integrity 330 WH Integrity 340 XS Integrity 350 MKII Integrity 380 FB Integrity Aspire 42 Integrity 426 ES Integrity 460 GS Integrity 490 GS Integrity 530 GS ISLAND GYPSY Newport 460 JP RIBS JP RIBS 10m JP RIBS Project K Island Gypsy 400 Twin Cab KING CATS King Cat 38 LAZERCRAFT Lazercraft 996 LEOPARD Leopard 43 PC Leopard 474 PC Leopard 51 PC LOMOCEAN Seawolf Black Pearl MAKAIRA Makaira 35 King Bank MARITIMO Maritimo 440 Offshore Maritimo M45 Maritimo C47 Maritimo M48 Maritimo M50 Maritimo S50 Maritimo FB550 Maritimo X50 Maritimo S51 Maritimo S55 Maritimo M56 Maritimo M58 Maritimo M59 Maritimo X60 Maritimo 60 Offshore Maritimo A60 Aegean Maritimo M61 Maritimo M64 Maritimo M65 Maritimo S70 Maritimo M73 MARLOW Marlow Explorer 53 Marlow Explorer 70 MUSTANG Mustang 32 Mustang 43 MERIDIAN Meridian 441 MOCHI CRAFT Mochi Dolphin 54 MONTEBELLO Montebello 12.5 Sedan MULDER Mulder 53 - Dutchess NAIAD Naiad-Kirby 10m RIB NEW OCEAN New Ocean 640 New Ocean 68 FB NEXT GENERATION

Corsair 44X Corsair Cabriolet Next Generation 49 Euro Corsair 53 NIMBUS Nimbus C9 Nimbus 305 Nimbus 365 Nimbus 405 NORDHAVN Nordhavn 43 Nordhavn 52 Nordhavn 55 OCEAN ALEXANDER Ocean Alexander 52 Ocean Alexander 60 Ocean Alexander 64 Ocean Alexander 70 E Ocean Alexander 85 Ocean Alexander 100 OFFSHORE Offshore 72 OUTER REEF Outer Reef 63 Outer Reef 70 PACHOUD Voodoo 17.5m Pachoud 26 - Rua Moana PARAGON Paragon 25 PALM BEACH Palm Beach 45 Palm Beach GT 50 Palm Beach 65 PAMA Pama 54 Pama 62 Pama 6400 PH PATHFINDER Pathfinder 17m Cat PERGIVA Pergiva 33 PELORUS Pelorus 44 PERSHING Pershing 56 POWERCAT Powercat 3400 Partycat POWERPLAY Powerplay 56 Powercat PRECISON Precision 58 PRESTIGE Prestige 500S PRINCESS Princess F45 Princess F55 Princess V60 Princess V62 Princess 67 FB Princess 21m RAYGLASS Rayglass 4000 RIBCO RIBCO Venom 44 RIVIERA Riviera 3600 SY Riviera 39 FB Riviera 43 FB Riviera 41 Riviera 445 SUV Riviera 45 Riviera 48 Offshore Express Riviera 4800 Platinum Riviera 4800 SY Riviera 50 FB Riviera 5000 SY Riviera 50 SMY Riviera 51 Enclosed Riviera 515 SUV Riviera 53 FB Riviera 5400 SY Riviera 5400 Platinum Riviera 575 SUV Riviera 5800 SY Riviera 6000 SY

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Riviera 6000 Platinum Riviera 61 Series II Riviera 63 EB Riviera 64 SMY Riviera 645 SUV Riviera 68 SMY Riviera 70 Riviera 72 SMY Riviera 77 EB ROBALO Robalo R305 ROBSON DESIGN Robson 1131 Robson SF 50 ROGER HILL DESIGN Hill 12m - Maggie Hill 13.8m - Raptap Hill 15m - Equinox 7 Hill 16m - Gulf Explorer Hill 16.4m -Sea Star Hill 17.5m - Voodoo Hill 18.3m - Mystica Hill 20m - Tenacity Hill 20m - Lola SABRE Sabre 48 Salon Express SACS SACS Strider 13m SALTHOUSE Salthouse 52 Pacific Pearl Salthouse 65 - Ruben Jane Salthouse 65 - Halcyon VI Salthouse 68 Salthouse 68 - Ekara SCOUT Scout 345 XSF SEA RAY Sea Ray 265 Sundancer Sea Ray 280 SLX Sea Ray 350 SLX Sea Ray 370 Venture Sea Ray 450DA SEABANDIT Seabandit 400SF SEALEGS Sealegs 9000 Interceptor SELENE Selene 40 Selene 55 SOUTHSTAR Southstar 37 SQUADRON Squadron 58 STEBER Steber 3800 Twin Cab Steber 3800 Open Steber 3800 Sportfisher Steber 47 SUNSEEKER Sunseeker Predator 62 SUPERIOR Superior 1050 Sedan SYMBOL Symbol 63C Classic VAN DUTCH Van Dutch 40 VOODOO Voodoo Xf60 Expedition Foiler VOYAGER CATS Voyager V1250 Conquest Voyager V1270 WATSON Watson 48 WHITE POINTER White Pointer 1050 HT WHITEHAVEN Harbour Classic 40 Whitehaven 6000 Coupe Whitehaven 6000 FB Whitehaven 6100 Coupe Whitehaven 7500 MY

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NEVER BEFORE SEEN ON A SINGLE OUTBOARD THE NEXT GENERATION IN DIGITAL BOAT CONTROL

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