The LaLee

The LaLee The Cadogan

LONDON

Words: Matt Turner Photography: © Thomas Alexander

IN A BITE Owner: Cadogan Estates Operator: Belmond Interior Design: Russell Sage Studio F&B Consultant: Gorgeous Group Art Consultant: Artefact Main Contractor: Beck Executive Chef: Chris Hill F&B Manager: Domenico Pizzo Head Bartender: Andrea Taiuti Head Sommelier: Leonardo Barlondi www.thelalee.co.uk

Chelsea institution The Cadogan, now operated as a Belmond hotel, has long been associated with London’s theatreland, most famously in John Betjeman’s poem ‘The Arrest of Oscar Wilde at the Cadogan Hotel’. So it’s entirely appropriate that dramatic tableside service is at the heart of its new restaurant The LaLee, which takes both its name and inspiration from Chelsea socialite and actress Lillie Langtry. And her spirit still pervades the glamorous Art Deco interiors of this latest addition to the hotel, comprising an all-day street-facing café and gilded dining room with plush leather seating, intricately designed cornicing and floral motifs.

Executive Chef Chris Hill has taken his cue for the menu from Langtry’s European travels. The roll call of classic dishes traverses the continent, from the Lobster Bisque of France’s West coast via Parisian bistro favourites such as Steak Frites and Croque Monsieur, to Italian highlights such as Aubergine Parmigiana and Tiramisu. Beef Tartare, Caesar Salad and Dover Sole are all artfully assembled at the table in the traditional manner with added theatrical élan.

Similarly each of the 15 signature cocktails takes influence from a European city frequented by Langtry and her bohemian friends, with a highlight being the Mimosa al Garibaldi, a floral combination of Italy’s most iconic drinks blending prosecco, Campari and Italicus Rosolio di Bergamotto. The wine list meanwhile includes an iconic Gevrey-Chambertin – one of only nine Grand Crus of its kind in Burgundy – and a single vineyard Barolo from Piedmonte. There’s also a bespoke English sparkling wine created exclusively for the hotel by Sussexbased Rathfinny Wine Estate.

“Lillie Langtry would entertain the brightest stars of society, including the Prince of Wales, at 21 Pont Street – her elegant townhouse that became part of The Cadogan,” says Xavier Lablaude, General Manager. “Now, The LaLee brings Langtry’s spirit back to life, paying homage to the cuisine she adored during her epic travels.”