HOTEL FOOD & DRINK
FAIRMONT WINDSOR PARK • JEAN-GEORGES VONGERICHTEN • PUBLIC – NEW YORK
CreativeCocktails
SPECIALTY ICE
CONTENTS ISSUE 27 098
046
STARTERS The Maybourne Bar
046
Isa
048
Cabra
050
The Maybourne Los Angeles
Four Seasons Hotel Madrid
The Hoxton Los Angeles
067
MAIN COURSES 052
Xenodocheio Milos
058
The Aubrey
063
Public
067
St Pancras Renaissance London
Athens
Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park London
New York
© Liz Clayman
Booking Office 1869
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CONTENTS ISSUE 27 SERVICE
063
Chef’s Table
030
In Search of Perfection
032
California Dreaming
038
Spanish Spirit
044
Acclaimed British chef Simon Rogan shares a snapshot of his life in food.
French culinary powerhouse Jean-Georges Vongerichten is expanding his global empire with new openings in Marrakesh and Nashville.
US chef, author and restaurateur Nancy Silverton reflects on bringing her signature Cal-Ital cooking to the UK, Mexico and Singapore.
© Lateef Photography
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086
Laura de Vega González, Head of Global F&B Development at Meliá Hotels International, discusses chef partnerships and sustainability.
DINING Piece of Cake
078
The much-loved pastime of afternoon tea is being given a creative makeover by operators keen to meet evolving consumer appetites evolve.
SIPPING © Alan Keohane
Shaking It Up
REGULARS Entrée
021
Events
106
Appetisers
025
Spotlight
108
Signatures
084
Petits Fours
113
Cocktails
096
Washing-Up
130
Drinks
004
101
088
A new generation of mixologists are helping to drive innovation from behind the cocktail bars of London’s most prestigious grand dame hotels.
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“We don’t sell anything”, Valda states, “we help people to achieve what they want to see on their table”.
Creative Vision As restaurant concepts change continually, so does the way tableware is bought and incorporated into the concept itself. We have seen an incredible evolution in tableware over the past few years with ceramics and glassware becoming so creative they are almost works of art themselves. It is little wonder then that the best chefs seek out the most creative people to help them realise their vision for food presentation. Goodfellow & Goodfellow Ltd. has become the go-to place for chefs and restaurateurs in London and the U.K. The idea that the design ethos of a beautiful restaurant concept, combined with an amazing menu can be brought together with tableware, requires deep understanding and empathy with each individual client. From creating a unique bowl or plate with artisan producers; to advising on how to bring different materials together to express a chef’s personality, has become a discipline in itself. Valda & Paul Goodfellow curate their portfolio of products through a diverse collective of design-driven producers; each one representing an individual style. ‘We don’t sell anything’, Valda states, ‘we help people to achieve what they want to see on their table’. The G&G customer list is like a roll-call of the U.K.’s most successful restaurateurs and chefs. It’s brand portfolio is equally impressive with names like Hering Berlin, Studio Mattes, Montgolfier & Jacques Pergay offering haute couture for tableware; while trendsetting casual dining is served with trend-led brands including Costa Nova, Bonna, Figgjo and Serax. Offering the ability to help create tableware concepts has set G&G apart from all other distributors or suppliers in the sector. Their ambition is to extend that capability beyond the U.K., and soon. Exciting times ahead.
Call: 0844 334 5232 Shop: www.goodf.co.uk Email: sales@goodf.co.uk
To see creativity in action scan the QR code with your camera app, click the link and watch the magic unfold.
@fine2dine
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at www.fine2dine.com
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ENTRÉE
ON THE COVER Eton Mess at Moreish, Fairmont Windsor Park © Viktor Kery
The Art of Agility
F
uture gazing has always been an imprecise science at best,
and elaborate tasting menus are practically designed on the
but trying to predict what lies ahead seems increasingly
fly, changing to reflect the produce available. In New York, we
absurd in the current climate. World events seem to be
head to Ian Scharger’s ever-evolving, continuously-inspiring
lining up to make a mockery of even the most robust market
Public, where the pandemic merely provided the opportunity
forecasts, yet the hospitality sector – on the back foot for so
to overhaul the F&B offering, with the addition of a Peruvian
much of the last two years – does have one trick up its sleeve
eatery, an experiential nightclub and a cocktail bar inspired
when it comes to anticipating and responding to consumer
by the Jazz Age. What these projects have in common is an
behaviours and trends.
ability to convey an outward-looking vision while remaining
While opinions on what the next decade holds might differ – are we looking at a rerun of The Roaring Twenties or The Great
rooted in their locations, creating a unique sense of place, and – perhaps most importantly – fun.
Depression? – there’s no doubt that agility will be fundamental
This issue we also had the privilege of interviewing the
to survival and success. To this end, purpose-driven hotel
acclaimed chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, whose global
drinking and dining hotspots that have unique selling points
portfolio spans restaurants at The Connaught in London, The
and can adapt quickly to emerging trends might just have the
Mark in New York and The Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills. He
edge on larger, overstretched F&B multiplexes. Corporate hotel
knows all about the importance of agility, having pivoted
groups have often been criticised for an inability to be agile,
in the pandemic to open new outposts in heritage hotels in
but the global uncertaintly we’re experiencing makes it more
Marrakesh and Nashville. In both destinations, he infuses his
important than ever before.
signature Asian-inspired gastronomy with regionally-popular
The theory was discussed in depth at To The Table in Ajman this March, with several industry experts championing the the
dishes and flavours to strike the balance between the global and the locally-relevant that is trending today.
commercial benefits of smaller, more focused outlets that can
As the hospitality sector gets back on its feet, streamlined
be tweaked and modified as necessary to meet the needs of a
concepts will not only be more economically viable, but they
fast-moving landscape. Agility is now a major selling point.
will likely create more memorable experiences for diners, too.
There’s a freedom in this fluid approach that’s trickling
Unique design, playful execution, inventive food and drink:
into the concepts themselves. In this issue, we take you to
these are the things that keep guests intrigued, and you’ll find
Booking Office 1869, the achingly glamorous new restaurant
plenty of examples of them on these pages. Supper is served.
and bar at London’s St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, where the design swings between Neo-Gothic architectural details and eight-metre high palm trees, and the menu is equally uninhibited. At Grace & Savour, a country house restaurant on a mission to redress the imbalance in the food supply chain and champion a more resilient farming model, the ingenious
Shanna McGoldrick • Deputy Editor
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THE BRIGADE
@SupperMag
EDITORIAL
DESIGN
FINANCE
Editor-in-Chief Matt Turner
Design Manager David Bell
Finance Director Amanda Giles
Managing Editor Catherine Martin
Production Mel Capper
Group Financial Controller Sarah Healey
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c.martin@mondiale.co.uk
d.bell@mondiale.co.uk
m.capper@mondiale.co.uk
Deputy Editor Shanna McGoldrick
s.mcgoldrick@mondiale.co.uk
Editorial Assistant Eleanor Howard
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PORTFOLIO
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Group Credit Controller Lynette Levi EVENTS & MARKETING
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CORPORATE
Content & Research Olivia Mavers
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APPETISERS
The Architecture of Cognac Daniel Libeskind is best known for his architectural landmarks,
The blend itself is made from some of the scarcest eaux-de-vie
bringing his angular forms to hospitality developments, cultural
in Hennessy’s reserves, carefully selected and preserved in The
institutions and commercial centres around the world. Now, the
Founder’s Cellar on the family estate. For this reason, Richard
Polish-American architect has turned his hand to an altogether
Hennessy cognac has been produced in an extremely limited
different expression of his creative talents, having joined forces
quantity of just 12 tierçons; it is presented in Libeskind’s striking
with Maison Hennessy to design a new bottle for Richard
decanter – a piece of art in its own right – and can be accessorised
Hennessy, the rarest cognac in the collection.
with matching glasses and a serving tray.
In tribute to Richard Hennessy – the group’s founder –
“There is a complexity, process and structure to cognac, just
Libeskind immersed himself in the rich history of the brand,
as there is in architecture,” comments Libeskind. “I am inspired
crafting a bottle that is as visionary as the man who inspired it. He
by the interplay of history and the future – a particular magic
started with a classic cognac receptacle, imbuing the geometric,
happens when the two come together. And I relish bringing
crystalline forms of Baccarat crystal with soft, organic curves
a myriad of ideas from different areas to the design process,
that bring new energy and complexity to the cognac it contains.
because I believe it elevates and brings new meaning to design.”
APPETISERS
A V-edgy Move Meat is officially off the menu at Ovolo Hotels, which is committing to a vegetarian-led offering following a successful trial period.
026
Following a year-long trial campaign that saw
anticipated, and we now find ourselves part of a
the Hong Kong-based brand remove meat from
new wave of plant-based pioneers. The one big
several of its in-house menus, Ovolo Hotels has
lesson we have learned from our bold experiment:
officially gone vegetarian. This February, the
never underestimate your guests. A key focus for
contemporary accommodation group launched
us has been ensuring we are creating something
its new vegetarian-led F&B offering Plant’d,
that still appeals to everyone - from vegans to
pledging to take an ethical and cutting-edge
flexitarians, and those who are simply keen on
approach to hotel dining.
expanding their palate.”
“It’s been a strategic move, but Ovolo
In a bid to offer industry-wide support, the
prides itself on being an industry leader,”
group has also launched a Plant’d Playbook
comments Ovolo Group’s founder and CEO,
whitepaper, packed with information and
Girish Jhunjhnuwala. “We believe that the world
resources for other hotel brands curious about the
changes, therefore we continue to evolve – we
practicalities of making the transition to plant-
want to ensure we are doing our bit to help
based dining. Featuring data, tips on defining
preserve our environment, promote healthy
food and beverage menus and acumen gained
eating and enhance the image of amazing
along the way, the paper will be publicly available
vegetarian and plant-based dining.”
online. Concludes Jhunjhnuwala: “There have
The group’s Creative Culinary Partner Ian
also been a lot of learnings along the way, and
Curley worked with the hotel’s restaurants in
we want to share those insights with others in
Hong Kong, Australia and Indonesia to help
the industry and outside the industry considering
devise new menus. “Our move to vegetarian
making the switch to a vegetarian-lead offerings
dining has been even more successful than we
or integrating it into their existing offering.”
F
or decades, the UK hospitality industry
a better work/life balance. The scheme will first
has struggled with labour shortages and
be implemented in the hotel’s Winter Garden
attracting and retaining staff, particularly
Restaurant, with the potential to be rolled-out
in the kitchen. Widely regarded as having long,
across other kitchens if successful. Productivity
unsociable hours, low wages and a stressful work
will be maintained through a recruitment drive
environment, a career behind the stove has earned
that will increase the number of kitchen staff that
itself a bad reputation. And those that persevere
the hotel employs.
can often expect burnout as a consequence. So it’s
“The creative change in work days will relieve
hardly surprising that around 20,000 chefs leave
some of the current pressure the team is under
the profession every year in the UK according to
which is something they are very excited about
a 2019 study by Centre for London.
and engaged with,” explains Klaner. “It shows
To counter such a staggering annual loss, the
The Landmark London’s serious investment in
industry has relied heavily on Europeans, who
our employees and the commitment to providing
see hospitality as a respectable career path,
a healthy work life balance for them.”
in order to bolster the workforce. In fact, EU
In a bid to further improve the working
nationals made up 43% of hospitality workers in
environment in hospitality kitchens, the hotel
Working 9 to 5 As the hospitality staffing crisis reaches breaking point in the UK, hotels are searching for new ways to keep chefs on board.
2019, according to research by Fourth.
art kitchens and back-of-house areas including a
global pandemic, and the UK staffing crisis
staff restaurant with its own open-plan kitchen
has reached breaking point. Travel restrictions
and designated team, a new academy for team
imposed in response to Covid-19 saw the
members to learn and develop a variety of skills,
industry lose more than 90,000 EU workers over
as well as development programmes for those
the past two years; many returned to their home
entering the industry.
counties, while others left the sector altogether
Other chefs in the capital have also been
in search of a more stable future. What’s more,
vocal about tackling the issue of poor working
repeated lockdowns put huge financial strain on
conditions. At Wild Honey, Chef Anthony
businesses, forcing mass redundancies followed
Demetre’s Michelin-starred Sofitel London St
by difficulties in finding staff once they finally
James restaurant, a strict 48-hour working week
reopened. Hotels have been known to close off
is in place. The venue also closes on Sundays,
entire guestroom floors while restaurants have
Mondays and Tuesday evenings to allow staff to
had to cap covers or reduce operating hours.
plan their own time. “It’s about striking a work
Now, as the sector starts to recover, hospitality
028
owners have also invested £10m in state-of-the-
Add in the complexities of Brexit and the
life balance,” says Demetre.
businesses are looking for new ways to keep their
It remains to be seen whether programmes
workforce happy and healthy. One hotel leading
such as the four-day work week will have the
the charge is The Landmark London, where
desired impact on hospitality’s staffing crisis;
Executive Chef Gary Klaner has devised a scheme
only time will tell. What is clear is that employers
to allow its chefs to work a four-day week with
have a responsibility to invest in their teams and
increased wages as part of an ambition to deliver
support them in achieving a balanced lifestyle.
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CHEF’S TABLE
Simon Rogan The British chef’s Lake District restaurant-with-rooms won a coveted third Michelin star this year – but Simon Rogan’s culinary empire stretches from London to Hong Kong. Here he shares a snapshot of his life in food.
When did you first fall in love with cooking?
It’s Sunday evening at home: who’s cooking
How often do you dine out?
My dad worked in wholesale fruit and veg when
and what’s on the menu?
Not as much as I’d like to. But I had a fantastic
I was growing up; most evenings he would
Most Sundays it’s a full roast dinner with all the
meal at Brat in London recently with my team.
come home with a box of weird and wonderful
trimmings, usually cooked by Penny or myself.
produce, so early on I developed an interest in
The kind of roast that when you’re finished, you
Are you an easygoing or a demanding diner?
seasonal ingredients.
have to lie down for half an hour!
I’m very easygoing. When I go out to eat,
What’s your favourite hotel restaurant?
What’s your go-to cooking soundtrack?
The Pig in Brockenhurst, in the New Forest,
My taste is pretty eclectic, but I have quite a
UK. Their ethos is very similar to what we do
few friends who are DJs so I listen to a lot of
Healthy dishes or full-fat indulgence?
at L’Enclume – it’s unpretentious cooking in a
house music.
Full-fat indulgence.
I’m there to relax, not to be judgemental or demanding.
beautiful location. Which chefs have inspired you?
Sweet or savoury?
Restaurant dining or room service?
Marc Veyrat – his use of foraged ingredients
Savoury.
Restaurant dining.
from the mountains around Annecy in France has really inspired the approach at my
Who is your favourite person to cook for?
What’s your favourite dish and who cooks it?
restaurants. I had the most memorable meal
Other than guests, it’s my wife Penny. I find
My favourite dish is a fragrant Thai green curry.
of my life at one of his restuarants, La Ferme
cooking for her at home really relaxing.
My wife Penny, my son Michael and I all love to
de Mon Père, in Megève. Which cookbooks can we find on your shelf?
make it. We’re quite competitive when it comes Where do you get the creative inspiration for
There’s Herbs, Spices and Flavourings by Tom
your dishes?
Stobart, Food for Free by Richard Maybey and
And something to drink with that?
A massive part of what guides our menus is
White Heat by Marco Pierre White. I also have
It has to be a Singha beer.
what is thriving at Our Farm [Rogan’s farm in
Essential Cuisine by Michel Bras, and Great
Cartmel Valley, in the heart of the Lake District,
Chefs of France by Anthony Blake and Quentin
which provides the ingredients for his dishes].
Crewe.
to deciding whose is the best… I think it’s mine!
When a particular ingredient is tasting its best, it goes on the menu.
Which city is food heaven for you? Hong Kong, because it’s constantly evolving
NOTABLE PROJECTS L’Enclume, Cartmel, UK; Rogan & Co, Cartmel, UK; Aulis, Cartmel, UK; Aulis, London, UK; Aulis, Hong Kong; Roganic, Hong Kong; The Baker & The Bottleman, Hong Kong www.simonrogan.co.uk
Which new restaurant are you eager to try out?
with new food places popping up every day.
Moxie in Hong Kong. It’s a new restaurant
From fine-dining to the street food scene, it
by a great friend of mine, Shane Osborn. The
has it all.
menu is vegetable-centred with a focus on sustainability.
031
In Search of Perfection Culinary powerhouse Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s global empire of restaurants includes some of the most exclusive brand names and postcodes in the hotel business. Currently on his radar are new openings in Nashville and Marrakesh. Words: Ayesha Khan • Portrait Photography: © Francesco Tonelli
J
032
ean-Georges Vongerichten’s career has been
Outhier’s next move was to export the concept of the
shaped, to some extent, by his obsession with
curated hotel restaurant to some of America’s swankiest
perfecting the art of the hotel restaurant –
cities, with Vongerichten’s help. “In 1986 I was at The Drake,
something he believes began during his childhood
Daniel Boulud was at Hôtel Plaza Athénée and hotels in New
in Alsace, France. “My house growing up was like
York really started realising they needed to compete with the
a hotel,” he recalls. “With my grandparents, my
private restaurants; people would stay there, but then go
parents and my aunts, there were about 18 people living in
elsewhere to eat,” Vongerichten says. He believes the desire
the house across three generations.”
to be well-fed is universal: “If you look back through history,
Living in such a bountiful region of the country, the family
Auguste Escoffier escaped Paris to go and work at The Savoy
naturally took an interest in produce and the culinary arts,
in London. And even further back than that, you either ate
exposing the young Jean-Georges to the most sophisticated
at home, or, when were riding in your horse-and-carriage,
local eateries. Indeed, it was a trip to the triple-Michelin-
stop off somewhere for food and rest.”
starred Auberge de l’Ill on his 16th birthday that really kick-
After opening two more casual standalone restaurants in
started his passion; he was so taken with the experience that
New York, by now the epicentre of his restaurant empire,
he immediately asked to be enlisted as an apprentice to the
Vongerichten was courted by General Electric to really flex
venue’s legendary chef, Paul Haeberlin.
his culinary muscle at a new hotel restaurant. The fine-
Vongerichten rose quickly through the French culinary
dining venue Jean-Georges was born on the ground floor
ranks, even securing a stint with Paul Bocuse, the godfather
at the Trump International Hotel & Tower overlooking New
of the nation’s cuisine. And it wasn’t long before another
York’s Central Park: to this day, the double-Michelin-starred
chef and mentor, Louis Outhier, took him to Asia to introduce
eatery remains Vongerichten’s flagship.
him to the art of the hotel restaurant. “Back in the seventies
These days, the chef’s empire encompasses 28 restaurants
and even the nineties, hotels had a bad reputation for food,”
in total, including both standalone venues and outlets within
says Vongerichten. His foray into Asia – where he headed
hotel developments. He is quick to point out the advantages
10 hotel F&B outlets across Bangkok, Singapore, Hong Kong
of the latter. “If you don’t have to pay rent, your money is
and Osaka – showed him how to break that stigma. He also
focused purely on creativity,” he quips. He’s also grateful
gained an appreciation for incorporating the aromas and
for the acute business acumen instilled in him by the hotel
flavours of the East into his cuisine – a skill that would
industry. “Before I moved to Bangkok, I didn’t know how
become his signature.
to run a business,” he says. “I knew how to make the best
SERVICE
© Daniel Christopher Rivera
© Alan Keohane
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SERVICE
Vongerichten has recently introduced his cuisine to Drusie & Darr at The Hermitage Hotel and L’Italien Restaurant at La Mamounia
“Before I moved to Bangkok, I didn’t know how to run a business. I knew how to make the best scrambled eggs, but not how to manage people, how to please the customer and stay profitable.”
scrambled eggs, but not how to manage people,
This chapter of the story needs little
L’Asiatique and L’Italien at La Mamounia
how to please the customer and stay profitable.”
explanation; on 17 March 2020, the US city –
were designed in close collaboration with
His portfolio includes Jean-Georges Beverly
battling the first wave of its Covid-19 outbreak
Jouin Manku. Both venues embrace the hotel’s
Hills at The Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills, Jean-
– came to a screeching halt. “I had nothing
Moorish heritage and boldly look forward
Georges at The Connaught in London, and Paris
open, and my heart just stopped,” recalls
into a world of modern design with custom
Café at the TWA Hotel in New York. In January
Vongerichten. “I thought, that’s it, I’m done.
furnishings and statement lighting elements.
this year, he opened his first restaurant in the
I’m going to just pack my suitcase and move
Drusie & Darr also boasts strong design
American South in the form of Drusie & Darr at
somewhere else. But Asia was closed, America
credentials. Interior designer Thomas Juul-
the storied Nashville property The Hermitage
was closed; I honestly didn’t think I would be
Hansen was charged with rejuvenating the space,
Hotel. He also recently opened a brand new
able to save my existing restaurants so decided
blending his signature aesthetic of pared-down
Asian restaurant, L’Asiatique par Jean-Georges,
make a deal with La Mamounia.” Still visibly
contemporary decor with historically-sensitive
at La Mamounia in Marrakesh, and took the
harrowed by that moment in time, the chef
touches that complement its position in the
reins at the hotel’s existing L’Italien Restaurant.
says he would never have made it without the
112-year-old Hermitage Hotel. The restaurant’s
intervention of the government.
moniker is also a reference to its legacy, being
That project, in particular, came about in an unexpected way. “The King of Morocco came
Despite the challenges, Vongerichten is
named after brother and sister Drusie and Darr
to ABC Kitchen in New York with the General
grateful for the lessons of the past two years.
Hall, who lived at the property with their father
Manager of La Mamounia,” says Vongerichten.
“The pandemic has really helped how we
and General Manager Dick Hall in the 1960s.
“I was there that night and they called me
communicate,” he says. “Before, we would
For his first venture in the South US,
over to the table to tell me how amazing the
put a call in to our restaurants once a week,
Vongerichten sought to create a menu showcasing
food was, and how they would like to bring it
but now with Zoom, we can speak to everyone
some of his best-known signature dishes, such
to Morocco. The General Manager gave me his
together. We had been working for years on
as his gingery tuna tartare and regionally-
business card and I said ‘oh, isn’t La Mamounia
teambuilding, but have accomplished more in
relevant classics that spotlight Tennessee’s
owned by the King of Morocco?’ He gestured
the last two years alone. For once, it wasn’t
seasonal produce. The modern American menu
over to his guest – it turns out he was the King.”
about construction and travel, it was about
features signature Asian influences, and offers
Vongerichten met the General Manager again
people,” he explains. Another valuable skill he
elevated yet approachable cuisine. “We brought
in Shanghai. “He showed me some visuals of
acquired was in opening an overseas restaurant
all the essential Southern comfort foods: fried
La Mamounia and said it was being designed
almost entirely over video-call. “We hired our
chicken, barbecue, dumplings, collard greens,”
by Jouin Manku from Paris and insisted I get
chefs on Zoom; we developed the recipes over
says the chef. “I love the town of Nashville. I
involved. I pushed my next meeting with him
Zoom. We were in the kitchen with masks and
bought my first cowboy boots from there and
in Morocco to March 2020 – and then New York
face shields videotaping our recipes and sending
danced until 3am on Broadway!”
went into lockdown.”
them over to the team in Morocco,” he recalls.
In addition to Juul-Hansen, Vongerichten
035
SERVICE
“We always want to be part of the whole process; to design the entire experience. Every tabletop, every chair, every salt shaker – I’m there.”
Drusie & Darr in The Hermitage Hotel, designed by Thomas Juul-Hansen, is the chef’s first outpost in the American South
has worked with myriad celebrated designers,
challenging undertaking yet. Set in what was
including Christian Liaigre at The Mercer in New
once New York’s go-to fish market on South
York, John Heah at The Connaught in London,
Street Seaport, the Tin Building boasts 53,000ft2
and architect Lord Norman Foster at his outpost
of space, and is set to house 12 different food
atop Four Seasons Hotel Philadelphia. “Working
venues – among them, a Japanese restaurant
with designers is an amazing process,” he
that transforms into a late-night izakaya, a
says. “We always want to be part of the whole
clandestine Chinese fine-dining eatery and a
process; to design the entire experience. Every
French brasserie. It’s the perfect way to sum
tabletop, every chair, every salt shaker – I’m
up the broad reach of Vongerichten’s global
there.” He is, however, often irked by what he
cuisine – and in many ways, it’s the culinary
calls ‘F&B syndrome’ – refering to the moments
personification of the man himself. It also
that hotel General Managers and F&B directors
brings his over 35 years in New York full circle.
take it upon themselves to modify the design of
“When I came to New York City for the first
hotel restaurants. “The problem in hotels, if you
time in 1985 – a trip that launched my career
have the wrong kind of contract, is that a new
– I went straight to the Fulton Fish Market on
General Manager will come in and suddenly he
my second day and immersed myself in the
wants red pillows,” he explains. “Then another
market’s thriving activity,” he recalls. “This
new manager comes in and says he wants some
project is an opportunity for me to recreate
green lamps. We are all creatures of habit, we
such a meaningful experience.” Proud as he is
expect the same things, people come back for
of his present, the culinary powerhouse remains
the essence of what is there.”
equally grateful for the challenges and lessons
Vongerichten’s latest project is not a
of his past.
hotel venture – but it just might be his most
© Daniel Christopher Rivera
036
trade.lsa-international.com
Metropolitan collection
MAKING CONNECTIONS Time to come together
LSA_SUPPER_Advert_CMYK_MAR22_AW_V01.indd 1
10/03/2022 11:08
SERVICE
California Dreaming US chef, author and restaurateur Nancy Silverton is renowned for shaping the evolution of Cal-Ital cooking on the West Coast. Now, fresh from the launch of two new international restaurants, the culinary star is exporting her brand of sun-drenched flavours and flawless dough globally. Words: Lauren Jade Hill • Photography: © Milo Brown Photography
N
ancy Silverton is widely credited with
This passion for provenance and seasonality has guided
helping to shape the modern-day perception
Silverton’s culinary career ever since, taking her on a journey
of Californian cuisine – but sitting at the
that saw her train at Le Cordon Bleu London, before getting
new London outpost of her Pizzeria Mozza
her big break in 1982 when Wolfgang Puck hired her as the
restaurant brand at Treehouse Hotel London,
opening pastry chef for his Los Angeles restuarant Spago,
the acclaimed chef admits that she didn’t
which quickly gained cult status on the local food scene. In
grow up a food-lover.
1989, inspired by a trip to Italy, she and her then-husband
“In retrospect, my mother was a good cook, but I didn’t
Mark Peel opened the restaurant Campanile – which the
appreciate her food growing up,” she says. “I grew up in the
Los Angeles Times credited with helping to shape the city’s
era of convenience food and that’s what all my friends were
gastronomic landscape, and won the James Beard Foundation
eating, so that’s what I wanted to eat too. My mother was
Award for Outstanding Restaurant in 2001. The launch of her
not that kind of cook – she made proper meals.” But college
adjacent La Brea Bakery, which played a fundamental role
years changed her outlook. “It was when I started cooking in
in popularising sourdough and sparking the artisan bread
my college dorms that I not only fell in love with the process
movement in the nineties, consolidated her star status.
of making food and the joy that it brought people, but that
Asked about the impact people credit her with having on
was also when I became very passionate about the source of
the culinary world, Silverton says: “I think I was probably
food and seasonality.”
influential in taking the approach of chefs like Alice Waters
A seminal moment in Silverton’s culinary journey came
to food and continuing that. I was not a founder of that
the first time she ate at Chez Panisse, the pioneering farm-
movement, because it goes back further than when I started
to-table eatery in Berkeley, California, run by chef and
cooking – but I definitely helped bring attention through
restaurateur Alice Waters. “I was interested in how the way
the food I was making, as well as my approaches and
she sourced food influenced the way she cooked, and I didn’t
philosophies, which were a continuum of that foundation.”
know it really until I ate her food,” she says. “I found that
Silverton’s food marries her Southern Californian heritage
philosophy really influential, and it paved the way to how I
with the recipes and traditions of her beloved Italy, finished
approach cuisine. That era of pioneering Californian chefs
with a personal twist that showcases her flair for flavour.
like Alice Waters was around the time of my coming-of-age
“I have a special place in my heart for Italy and I’ve had a
– the movement was just starting up around me.”
home there for the last 20 years,” she says. “What I bring
039
040
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Silverton’s London menu introduces diners to some of her most popular dishes – including pizzas with structured crusts made using her signature dough recipe
“What I bring is not authentic Italian food, but the flavours of Italy paired with the seasonality of California.”
is not authentic Italian food, but the flavours of Italy paired
California. Last August, she took the Pizzeria Mozza brand
with the seasonality of California,” she clarifies. “Something
to the UK, marking a third restaurant at Treehouse Hotel
that’s attractive to me about the Italian table, in the small
London, before turning her attention to Mexico with the
towns I spend my time in, is the seasonal products they
launch of Mozza at Costa Palmas in Los Cabos. In 2022 she
work with alongside preserved items like vinegars, capers
returns to Singapore – where she previously had a restaurant
and salted anchovies.”
at Marina Bay Sands – with the imminent opening of a new
And even after all this time, the country still proffers
Osteria Mozza at Hilton Singapore Orchard, and during our
inspiration. “I always say that I can’t return to Los Angeles
meeting in London, she also hints at a potential new project
without one idea or new dish that I’m passionate about,”
in Saudi Arabia.
she says. “Last summer it was the most perfect panzanella
Silverton has come a long way since her days as a trainee
salad that I had in the tiny Umbrian town of Bevagna. It was
chef in the British capital. When the restaurant launched,
very simple but everything about it was right, so that was
she said in a statement: “Opening here at the Treehouse in
the gift I brought back to my restaurant; in my own way, I
Marylebone is like a wonderful homecoming for me. In 1977,
recreated that.”
44 years ago, I was a student at London’s revered Le Cordon
This passion for consistently seeking out fresh flavour combinations has certainly paid dividends. In 2014, Silverton
Bleu culinary school, mere blocks away on Marylebone Lane, and now I am back with my Pizzeria Mozza.”
won the James Beard Foundation’s highest honour, the
The venue is a grown-up and polished affair, offering
Outstanding Chef Award, before going on to star in an episode
high ceilings and plenty of light. Designed by Ward & Gray,
of the Netflix series Chef’s Table in 2017. She has written
the space features timber panelling, vibrant blue leather
nine cookbooks, including the prominent tome Breads from
upholstery, terracotta floor tiles and a polished marble bar,
La Brea Bakery, in which she shares her secrets to baking
along with verdant greenery that echoes the hotel’s character
the perfect loaf at home. She has also appeared as a judge on
and emanates a Mediterranean garden vibe. The designers
MasterChef and several other cooking shows.
worked predominantly with Italian vendors, highlighting the
In partnership with the restaurateur Joe Bastianich, Silverton now co-owns two Pizzeria Mozza venues in Los
work of the Venetian glass blower Sogni di Cristallo and the Milanese furniture maker Soto.
Angeles and Newport Beach, as well as a smattering of
Silverton’s London menu introduces diners to some of her
additional LA eateries including the upscale restaurant Chi
most popular dishes from across the pond – including, of
Spacca, the Michelin-starred Osteria Mozza, and its takeout
course, the famous pizzas with structured crusts made using
branch Mozza2Go. There’s no slowing down for the duo,
her signature dough recipe. What would she recommend?
who opened the wine bar and pizza restuarant Pizzette
“From the antipasti, try the chicken liver with capers, parsley
in California’s Culver City in 2020, before launching a
and pancetta,” she says. “It’s very different to the chicken
steakhouse called The Barish at The Hollywood Roosevelt
liver you get elsewhere – it’s more Italian. You should
in April 2021.
definitely get a salad, too; Nancy’s Chopped Salad is the one
But Silverton’s sphere of influence extends beyond
that really packs the punch with all the flavours intertwined
041
SERVICE
Treehouse Hotel London’s Pizzeria Mozza features timber panelling, terracotta floor tiles and vibrant blue upholstery
042
in one forkful.” The diverse pizza toppings
Mandarin Oriental property on Orchard Road.
include prosciutto di Parma with tomato, fior
The eatery will pair bestselling items from
di latte and rucola, as well as a ‘nduja option
Silverton’s existing restaurants with new dishes
with friggitelli peppers, tomato and smoked
made specifically for the Asian venue: diners
scamorza. “We put all the greatest hits on the
can expect old favourites such as prosciutto di
menu with a few other seasonal options,” the
Parma and comice pear, smoked mozzarella di
chef explains.
bufala, and primi and secondi plates ranging
In Mexico, meanwhile, Silverton’s new
from butternut squash tortellini to grilled quail
Mozza venue sits within the 1,000-acre Costa
wrapped in pancetta. For dessert, highlights
Palmas resort and residential community on the
include torta della nonna with local honeycomb
East Cape of Los Cabos as the anchor in the first
and Sicilian pine nuts.
phase of the Costa Palmas Marina Village. The
Wherever Silverton goes, her restaurants offer
eatery combines elements of the chef’s Osteria
the enticing fusion that comes from these Italian
Mozza, Pizzeria Mozza and Chi Spacca concepts
and Californian foundations. What makes diners
with local references, using seafood sourced
connect with this cuisine to such an extent? “It
from the area. The design features a wood-fired
is food that’s accessible,” she says. “It’s not
oven and grab-and-go counter reminiscent of
a mystery and the flavours are familiar. When
a timeless Italian deli, with the venue divided
people eat, they want to be nourished. My food
into a series of interconnected spaces designed
nourishes. I don’t have any gimmicks in what
to complement the natural setting.
I do. I just try to make dishes that taste good
In Asia, the Singapore outpost of Osteria Mozza will sit within the new Hilton Singapore Orchard, which is replacing the former
and are memorable, so even after a diner leaves, they want to return.”
french family-run company since 1768 revol1768.com
SUPPER.indd 1
Photo : Studio Saison
DESIGN
18/03/2022 15:59:48
Spanish Spirit As Meliá Hotels International strengthens its portfolio, Laura de Vega González, Head of Global F&B Development, discusses chef partnerships, new concepts and a focus on sustainable sourcing. Words: Jenna Campbell
044
PROFILE Laura de Vega González Head of Global F&B Development Meliá Hotels International
The last few years have seen Meliá Hotels
SPANISH SPIRIT
International raise its game in the hotel F&B
Whether it’s a starry UK-wide partnership with
space. The announcement of a collaboration
Gino D’Acampo or foodie experiences closer to
between the Innside brand and Italian chef Gino
home, it is always “Spanish warmth and passion”
With more than 20 years’ experience in the hospitality industry – including stints as a general manager in various lifestyle hotels – Laura de Vega González’s career has developed to specialise in F&B. Tasked with defining and strategising F&B concepts for all properties across the Meliá Hotels International portfolio, in particular for luxury and lifestyle brands, de Vega González is constantly on the lookout for partners and products that bring innovative dining experiences to the market.
D’Acampo claimed a place in the UK’s competitive
that defines the food offering at Meliá hotels,
hospitality market while a period of growth back
and the group’s new concepts are geared towards
home in Spain saw far-reaching diversification of
finding the exceptional elements of Spain in
its F&B concepts across sprawling resorts, urban
locales near and far. As de Vega González notes:
outposts and wellness retreats, from the hip
“Gastronomy at a premium hotel is no longer
biophilic bohemia of ME flagship Terrenal – its
just something to complement the experience,
first five-star hotel opening in Barcelona in over
it’s now one of the main drivers.”
Upcoming Openings: Gran Meliá Menorca, Balearics (2022); Tenuta di Artimino, Tuscany (2022); Paradisus Salinas, Lanzarote (2022); Gran Meliá Kish, Iran 2022; Gran Meliá Cordusio, Milan (2023)
a decade – to the upcoming luxury restaurant
Reflecting this sentiment, at the soon-to-be
offerings at Villa Le Blanc in Menorca. Elsewhere,
launched Villa Le Blanc in Menorca, a culinary
a flair for design statements like those at the
space dedicated to local produce will follow
refurbed Hotel Colón Gran Meliá in Seville, where
traditional fishing techniques, giving guests
a new bar has been created beneath a classical
a chance to enjoy authentic delicacies, while
green ceramic dome, have kept the group firmly
behind the bar, Joan Canals – an ambassador of
in the minds of guests.
Balearic brand Gin Xoriguer – will showcase the
Overseeing this evolution, Laura de Vega
best homegrown spirits and creative cocktails.
González, Head of Global F&B at Melia Hotels
Throughout the portfolio, de Vega González
International, has risen through the Meliá
is keen to experiment with different techniques
ranks, progressing from receptionist to the head
and concepts at the group’s new outposts.
of the table. Having weathered the storm of
“Following demand for high-quality produce we
Covid-19, she is now working to usher in a new
are embracing ancient cooking techniques, which
gastronomic chapter for the group. Supper spoke
respect the raw materials and their properties, be
to her about the group’s sustainability efforts,
it the firing, grilling or smoking of vegetables,
the chef appointments across its kitchens and
fish and meat,” she notes. “Also, the demand
what can be learned from F&B disruptors.
for luxury relates to high-quality, local produce,
SERVICE
and the best way to show this is with our new
within its own ranks. “Being an international
Meaningful steps have also been taken towards
raw bars, where tartares, ceviches, fresh seafood
company with talented chefs around the world,
reducing waste and championing low-impact
and salted meats are offered.”
we always give preference to internal talent in
kitchen techniques with an aim to becoming
order to develop their career,” she explains. “If
a circular hospitality model that reduces the
we build our employees up they will help build
group’s impact on the environment. These
When it comes to the delivery of these F&B
our business too. Offering this international
practical measures have also been rolled out
concepts, collaboration with world-renowned
experience gives our chefs a global vision and
against the backdrop of the pandemic. “All
talent raises the game across the board. “Guests
base of knowledge that is really appreciated when
of the experiences around dining moved into
are expecting top-quality experiences and
managing teams in different F&B environments,
more of a mindset behaviour – guests seek a
incredible flavours every time they eat, and as
and also reinforces the creativity in menu design
higher quality of product, with seasonal and
a result the chefs are becoming stars of the new
and culinary offers.”
healthy ingredients, sustainable sourcing and
STAR APPEAL
openings to a degree,” says de Vega González
fishing,” explains de Vega González. “Brands
of this strategy. “When we collaborate with
GREEN CREDENTIALS
celebrity chefs who have a lot of experience and
Topping industry lists for sustainability
soul, and train their employees in this manner,
knowledge, our own chefs get to train with some
credentials, Meliá’s focus on responsible
are increasingly sought after.”
of the best in the industry.”
operating practices extends to its F&B offering
Working towards the reduction of food waste,
As a result, high-profile partnerships have
too, informing the sourcing of ingredients as well
Meliá has partnered with companies built on
developed with chefs like triple-Michelin-
as the longevity and footprint of a menu’s impact.
sustainability principles including Leanpath and
starred seafood specialist Ángel León at Meliá
“We are tapping in to global trends including
Too Good To Go, amongst others. “We want to
Sancti Petri in Cadiz, and Íñigo Urrechu, the
biodiversity, taking up ingredients that were
protect biodiversity and the natural capital of
‘master of coal’ at Marbella’s Gran Meliá Don
used in the past such as herbs and wild fruits and
our destinations, so an example of this is our
Pepe and Meliá Frankfurt. “There’s also Luciano
incorporating those which were previously not
partnership with We Like Fish to promote species
Monosilio, who will join as Executive Chef at
being used,” explains de Vega González. “With
caught by the organisation’s vessels including
Villa Agrippina Gran Meliá in Rome, having been
the green, plant-forward trend, we are taking
toothfish, brotola and mullet found in West
called the ‘king of carbonara’ by The New York
inspiration from traditional recipes of various
African waters. We want to turn our hotels and
Times,” adds de Vega González.
countries and creating delicious recipes; being
restaurants into generators of social value and
green doesn’t mean that you have to lose the
positive impact.”
And yet, Meliá has not lost sight of the importance of nurturing emerging talent
with sustainability at their core, which also have
sophistication of incredible flavours.”
045
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The Maybourne Bar The Maybourne LOS ANGELES
Words: Eleanor Howard Photography: Courtesy of André Fu Studio
IN A BITE Owner / Operator: Maybourne Hotel Group Interior Design: André Fu Studio Chef: Kaleo Adams Head Mixologist: Chris Amirault www.maybournebeverlyhills.com
046
ince acquiring Montage Beverly Hills in
S
Art Deco-style lamps accompany high bar
2019, Maybourne Hotel Group has been
stools in Yves Klein blue, while handmade sheer
steadily upgrading the property in line
panels by French artisan Pietro Seminelli lighten
with its London portfolio. Having introduced
the look. Precious materials carry through to
The Terrace – an al fresco restaurant that brings
the flooring, where an intricate mosaic of white
the Californian countryside to the city – and the
terrazzo sits alongside silver Emperador marble.
handsome wood-panelled Cigar and Whiskey
The
beverage
programme
meanwhile
Bar, the hotel has now expanded its food and
showcases seasonal variations of cocktail
beverage offering to include The Maybourne
classics. Handcrafted by Head Mixologist Chris
Bar, designed by André Fu Studio.
Amirault, libations include Slow Dance – a
Located in the lobby, the jewel-box of a
vibrant highball with clementine and rosehip –
bar marks Fu’s first hospitality project in the
and Killer Joe, an Espresso Martini made with
US, and promises to bring the quintessential
coffee from the LA roaster Maru. There are also
Maybourne cocktail experience to the West
elevated bar snacks such as caviar, tuna tartare
Coast. For the interiors, Fu sought to unite
and a Maine lobster roll with smoked trout roe.
different cultures through design, introducing
“The Maybourne Beverly Hills bar embraces a
the geometric patterns of the Art Deco era
truly authentic spirit of hospitality, reimagined
alongside the vibrant colours of Californian
into a setting of contemporary opulence,”
landscapes. Surrounded by walls of burr walnut
comments Fu, who has worked with Maybourne
panelling in charcoal grey and ivory, the space
Hotel Group on various projects for over a
is anchored by a bar carved from solid Turkish
decade. “I am delighted to be part of the
silver onyx with polished nickel accents and
group’s ongoing journey, creating the very best
inset lighting that casts a seductive glow.
of hospitality experiences.”
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Isa Four Seasons Hotel MADRID
Words: Shanna McGoldrick Photography: © Christian Horan
IN A BITE Owner: OHLA, Mohari Hospitality Operator: Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts Architecture: Estudio Lamela Interior Design: AvroKo Chef: Jhonny Setjo F&B Manager: Sophie Larrouture Head Bartender: Miguel Pérez www.fourseasons.com
048
A
recent spate of high-profile hospitality
Ōchādo – a combination of Choya plum wine,
launches across Madrid means the
lacto-fermented purple carrot and citrus – and
Spanish capital is currently enjoying a
Oniwa, which is made with Seedlip Garden and
moment in the global culinary spotlight. Four
citrus gazpacho water. Naturally, sake is well
Seasons Hotel Madrid is contributing to this
represented; in fact, Isa claims to stock the only
momentum with the introduction of Isa, a sultry
barrel-aged sake to be found in Europe.
gastrobar that promises a vibrant and multisensory epicurean experience.
Accompanying the drinks offering is a sophisticated and creative tapas menu devised
The venue, which serves up Asian-inspired
by Head Chef Jhonny Setjo. The dishes nod
tapas and avant-garde cocktails, is set out
to the cooking codes of both Asia and the
across multiple rooms that have the flexibility
Mediterranean, with highlights including
to be closed off for private events. Designed
pickled carrot and trout caviar, and bao with
by New York-based studio AvroKo, each area
baby squid in their ink. The occasionally
comes with its own distinctly seductive and
surprising flavour combinations also include
artistic aesthetic.
roasted golden garlic aioli, fried oyster with
Isa’s centrepiece is its dramatic circular bar
kataifi, and black truffle and oscietra caviar.
crowned by a statement painting on the ceiling
Taking the guest experience a step further
above. It’s here that renowned Head Bartender
is the bar’s onsite Himiko Lab, which offers a
(and homegrown Madrileño) Miguel Pérez
first-hand exploration of the creative process
rustles up cocktails that reference the concept of
behind the cocktails. Curious minds satiated,
the Japanese haiku by employing a minimalist
the bar turns its attention to playtime; come
approach that produces complex flavours.
sundown, Isa transforms into a sleek, polished
The drinks bear Japanese monikers such as
nightlife spot for locals and hotel guests alike.
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Cabra The Hoxton LOS ANGELES
Words: Shanna McGoldrick Photography: © Stan Lee
IN A BITE Operator: Accor, Ennismore F&B Operator: Boka Restaurant Group Chef: Stephanie Izard Beverage Director: Daniel Dooreck www.thehoxton.com
050
P
isco sours, Peruvian eats and panoramic
year in a bid to shine the spotlight on local
views certainly pack a punch at Cabra Los
produce and ingredients.
Angeles, the peppy new restaurant that
Beverage Director Daniel Dooreck has tapped
opened its doors on the rooftop of The Hoxton,
into the vibrancy of the food with a cocktail
Downtown LA, in January.
menu that puts pisco front and centre, with
Helmed by acclaimed chef Stephanie Izard in
the classic Pisco Sour and frozen Pisco Fever
partnership with Boka Restaurant Group, the
incorporating vodka and guava leading the way.
new venue marks the second opening for Cabra
A Llama Llama Tonic with cilantro-infused rum
– Spanish for ‘goat’ – following its successful
and green mango syrup is another standout
debut at The Hoxton, Chicago.
concoction, as is the Peruvian Passion, which
The Californian venue picks up where its
features fresh passion fruit honey and bourbon.
Midwestern counterpart leaves off, serving
The wine list spans smaller, organic producers
up colourful and shareable food inspired by
– many from South America’s wine-growing
the bold and zesty flavours of Peru. Menu
regions – and natural wines with acidity to
highlights include quinoa and tuna salad,
complement the menu’s ceviches. The beers
which is invigorated by candied pecans and a
highlight both local breweries and imported
cilantro-yuzu dressing, and a layered shrimp
Peruvian lagers such as Cusqueña.
causa that features aji potato and a limey
A joyful interior reinforces Cabra’s spirited
huacatay. Ceviches range from salmon to bass,
aesthetic, with gutsy patterns and rich textures
and empanada fillings include Swiss chard and
incorporated throughout the indoor and outdoor
kale, as well as aji de gallina – a Peruvian classic
areas. The finishing touch is provided by the
of spiced, creamed chicken. Izard also plans to
Downtown Los Angeles skyline, visible from
add seasonal speciality dishes throughout the
every angle thanks to the wraparound glazing.
Booking Office 1869 St Pancras Renaissance LONDON Station-side dining gets a glamorous makeover in London’s King’s Cross neighbourhood. Words: Shanna McGoldrick Photography: © John Carey (unless otherwise stated)
I
nternational travel might have lost some of its allure over the last two years or so, but there isn’t so much as a hint of perturbance at Booking Office 1869. Instead, the
destination restaurant and bar, which pulled up to the station at St Pancras Renaissance Hotel in London’s bustling King’s Cross last November, is a tribute to the time-honoured romance of voyaging. Under the generously creative eye of the hotelier and developer Harry Handelsman – whose Manhattan Loft Corporation portfolio also includes the British capital’s hotspots Chiltern Firehouse and The Stratford – the hotel’s cathedral-like restaurant space has been revamped into an all-day, late-night dining, drinking and dancing spot that almost defies categorisation. “In the midst of Covid, I just thought, why don’t I create something amazingly glamorous?” explains Handelsman of the new venture. “I believe I have one of the most beautiful buildings in London, but I really felt like the former restaurant didn’t do the architecture justice. It was very nice and a commercial success, but lacked glamour.” It’s certainly no longer in short supply. Booking Office 1869’s high windows look onto the platform of London’s international rail hub, giving diners tableside views of the trains gliding by on their way to and from mainland Europe, carrying the promise of sunlit terrasses and leafy boulevards. But even the most committed trainspotter would struggle to tear their eyes from the venue’s captivating interior,
052
MAIN COURSE
© Michael Sinclair
053
054
MAIN COURSE
The menu combines familiar brasserie classics with elegant and surprising flavour combinations
moulded and reconfigured by the Franco-Mexican
spicy tartar sauce. For feasting, the slow-roasted lamb
designer Hugo Toro into a breathtakingly bold homage
shoulder cooked in chermoula spices fits the bill –
to both the building’s Neo-Gothic Victorian heritage,
it’s designed to serve two but could easily feed four.
and to the nostalgic charm of globetrotting. The room
One of Powell’s favourites is the cured salmon with
is dominated by multiple eight-metre high palm
potato rösti, sesame, citrus and seaweed, which he
trees that stretch up to the ceiling in a nod to the
cites as an example of how an approachable dish can
Victorian penchant for winter gardens; a tropical touch
be elevated with seasoning and texture. “The idea is
reinforced by the presence of a turquoise bamboo-
that the salmon is cold and the potatoes are hot and
clad 22-metre bar that runs the length of the room,
crispy,” he explains. “I think it’s quite a clever, fun
encircling the station’s original ticket office.
thing to eat, and the flavour profiles are unexpected.”
The fabrics and patterns are lively and eccentric,
It’s a free-spirited culinary offering, and one that
based on a colour palette of plush teals, deep blues
suits the venue’s uninhibited surroundings. “I went
and spicy reds that was inspired by the hotel’s historic
a bit wild with the menu, in the sense that it’s not
grand staircase. Victorian architectural details brush
constricted by anything,” says Powell. “It had to cater
up against Seventies-style arc lamps and enormous
to everyone and be very versatile, because it’s a hotel
pendant lights – each composed of 267 brass leaves
bar at the end of the day.”
– while the floor space is arranged into large booths,
Indeed, slotted between a fashionable hotel lobby
intimate tables for two and shared dining spaces that
and an international train station, Booking Office
make the room simultaneously intimate and convivial.
1869’s location makes for a varied clientele. “It’s quite
“I want people to feel wonderful when they’re
interesting looking at the crowds at night time; people
here,” says Handelsman. “As your eyes drift through
are very glamorous and dressed-up, but then there’ll
the space, you see so many details of the design – it
be an old lady reading a newspaper in the corner,” says
feels comfortable yet exciting.”
Powell. “I quite like that. There are business lunches
It’s an oxymoron that could also be applied to the
during the day, hotel guests for breakfast in the
menu, which was overseen by acclaimed chef Patrick
morning, and then come night time, the atmosphere
Powell, who helms the city’s beloved eatery Allegra at
takes on a clubbier vibe.”
The Stratford. The culinary offering combines familiar
A similar level of adaptability needed to be built into
brasserie classics with elegant and surprising flavour
the drinks list, which has been meticulously curated by
combinations, adopting an international outlook that
Bar Manager Jack Porter, formerly of The Mezzanine
encompasses Japanese seasoning, Peruvian inspiration
at The Stratford and The Library Bar at The Ned. His
and Middle Eastern influence. Highlights include juicy
non-alcoholic and cocktail menus draw heavily on the
barbecued carrots served with braised grains, yoghurt,
heritage of the building, celebrating the achievements
pistachio and dukkah, as well as a silky cashew
and values of Victorian design.
hummus, which is cut through with pickled and raw
“I chose to look at the materials involved during
radish and dished-up with a soft boiled egg. There
that era of architecture: mainly steel, copper, wood
are tender tuna skewers dressed with daikon, white
and glass,” says Porter. To that end, glass and copper
soy and miso, and a relaxed fried fish sandwich with
decanters top the bar, while the house martini is
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© Michael Sinclair
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served in individual glass carafes. The alcohol-
is a nod to the god of travel, while monikers
free mocktail is centred on teas that were
such as The Ol’ Signalman and Arrived on
popular during the period, which are balanced
Time are a wink to the trackside location. The
with herbaceous ingredients.
Adorer, a mix of Belvedere vodka, hibiscus and
But when it comes to technique, Porter’s
lemon syrup and sparkling, was inspired by the
vision is rooted firmly in the 21st century. With
Victorian tradition of gifting hibiscus flowers to
the help of ultrasonic technology, he fast-tracks
the object of one’s affection. “I had a lot of fun
the ageing process of gin to achieve a depth and
naming the cocktails,” says Porter. “I wanted
complexity of flavour that would usually take up
to make a menu that held up against such a
to four months in a matter of hours. There’s a
beautiful room.”
technicality to the drinks that adds a theatrical
Handelsman concurrs. “The idea was to
flourish to the experience: the team laboured
design something timeless, that represents the
over capturing the ultimate ‘dry’ experience
glory of old and the contemporary of where we
for the martini, while the clear margarita sees
are now at the moment, in terms of St Pancras
the traditional lime juice replaced with a citric
as a gateway to Europe,” he surmises.
solution that makes the liquid completely
With DJs playing late into the night at
crystal clear. “It’s kind of a trick,” says Porter.
weekends and brunch potentially on the cards
“The eye gives you one impression, but then you
for the future, it’s difficult to determine whether
taste it and it’s so familiar.”
Booking Office 1869 is a bar, restaurant,
The ingredients used in the drinks are
or something else entirely. Whatever its
predominantly British, but a thread of
categorisation, it’s a coup: a tribute to bygone
wanderlust still runs thorugh the offering. The
times and faraway places that is, at the same
Hermes Fizz, a spin on a classic gin and tonic,
time, brazenly modern – and utterly Londonian.
IN A BITE Owner: Harry Handelsman Operator: Marriott International Developer: Manhattan Loft Corporation Architecture: Richard Griffiths Architects Interior Design: Hugo Toro Graphic Design: Alexander Kellas, Dror Cohen Menu Consultant: Patrick Powell Head Chef: Andres Garcia Bar Manager: Jack Porter www.booking-office.co.uk
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Xenodocheio Milos ATHENS Chef Costas Spiliadis applies his ‘less is more’ culinary philosophy to his debut hotel, a gastronomic boutique property in his native Greece. Words: Heidi Fuller-Love • Photography: © Dimitris Poupalos
W
ith six Michelin-starred restaurants, Greece’s
a luxury yacht. From high thread-count linens to Bulgari
ancient capital has been enjoying something of
toiletries, Spiliadis – a noted perfectionist – was involved in
a culinary renaissance in recent years. So the
curating every aspect of the space. The result is a fusion of
decision by the Estiatorio Milos restaurant chain Founder
elegance and simplicity – an aesthetic that perfectly mirrors
and Executive Chef Costas Spiliadis to open his first hotel-
the Milos ethos.
restaurant venture in the heart of Athens this January was a timely one.
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This sleek simplicity is reflected in the hotel’s destination fine-dining restaurant, Estiatorio Milos, which is located on
“Returning home is always a special moment,” says
its ground floor. The brand, which was founded in Montreal
Spiliadis, who is known for his pioneering role in promoting
in 1979, has spent decades developing a reputation for elegant
Hellenic cuisine across North America and globally. “Opening
yet unpretentious Greek cuisine with a pescatarian slant, and
Estiatorio Milos in this historic part of the centre of Athens
now counts global outlets in London, Miami, New York, Las
was a special moment in my career.”
Vegas and, most recently, Los Cabos. Seafood is the star of
Housed in adjoining listed Neoclassical buildings that
the show – and at Xenodocheio Milos it takes the limelight at
date back to 1880, with front-row views of the city’s storied
the restaurant’s open kitchen, which features a market stall-
Old Parliament House (now Greece’s National Historical
style display of fish on a generous bed of ice. Spiliadis and his
Museum), the property comprises 35 rooms and eight suites.
team aim to provide diners with the freshest Mediterranean
Its sensitive conversion was handled by A1 Architects and
seafood possible, sourced directly from fishermen, farmers
Dimitris Agiostratitis, while Divercity Architects, whose
and producers located all over Greece.
recent projects also include St Mortiz’s soon-to-open Grace
Inspired by the timeless minimalism of Cycladic art, the
La Margna hotel and the keenly-anticipated Moxy Athens
restaurant’s sheer walls – as white as the lunar landscapes
City, took the lead on the interior design.
of the spectacular Sarakiniko beach on the island of Milos–
Inspired by locally-relevant maritime elements combined
are pierced with high, narrow windows that help to create
with the purity of Cycladic architecture, the light-filled
a sense of intimacy in the vast space. Ancient amphoras
guestrooms feature soaring ceilings, Aegean Sea-blue
and wicker baskets full of fresh-skinned oranges and blush-
statement walls and cosy cushioned window alcoves that
red pomegranates add to the farmer’s market atmosphere,
provide the ideal space for watching the world go by. There
which is reinforced by fishing net-themed ceiling artwork
are statement handcrafted oak headboards, and opulent
crafted by Greek sculptor Dimitris Fortsas. The main dining
marble bathroom counters wouldn’t look out of place on
area is also linked – via a sweepingly magnificent black and
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Spiliadis’ signature dish is a blini-like pyramid of gently-fried zucchini and eggplant wafers
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white marble staircase that has become a design
helping him achieve a great deal of success,
signature across all of the Milos restaurants –
with several new international venues now in
to a cosy mezzanine area that features its own
the pipeline. “I am already committed to six
oyster bar.
new Estatorio: downtown Los Angeles, Century
“Across all my restaurants, the dining
City Los Angeles, Santa Clara in the middle of
experience focuses on the food and the
Silicon Valley, Palm Beach, Toronto, Dubai and
tabletop,” says Spiliadis. “I purposely interfere
Singapore,” he reveals.
minimally with the space so that I can avoid
Despite the impressive plans for further
distractions and allow the guest to fully
expansion, the chef’s culinary philosophy
immerse in the experience of the food.” He
remains unchanged. Perhaps because he
adds: “Similarly, in my latest Estiatorio Milos
hails from Patras, a bustling port town in the
in Athens, I left the urban Neoclassical building
northern Peloponnese that is famed for the
intact while I focused on ingredients, food and
quality of its native wine and olive oil, Spiliadis
Greek hospitality.”
prides himself on taking a low-interventionist
Spiliadis started his career in the seventies
approach to the high-quality produce he
with the launch of a pub called Filoxenia in
showcases in his cuisine, wherever possible.
Montreal’s Mile End, which he once told the
“Nature’s ingredients are so beautiful that any
Greek magazine Ellines was a bid to “prove that
attempt to tamper with them is philosophically
Greek cuisine and Greek culture were not as bad
and pragmatically wrong,” he is quoted as
as everyone believed.” He places ‘philoxenia’–
saying on the Xenodocheio Milos website.
a term given to the sacred art of making a
Meals at Xenodocheio Milos begin with an
stranger feel at home – at the heart of every
ode to this trademark penchant for simplicity in
Milos experience. As a formula, it seems to be
the form of a basket of warm, crusty homemade
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bread served with a dipping plate of extra-virgin
Spiliadis’ culinary ethos isn’t restricted to
olive oil that is decorated with oregano clipped
the hotel restuarant; guests can also order the
fresh from a potted plant tableside.
fine-dining menu to their rooms, which come
Menu highlights include loup de mer ceviche,
furnished with polished wooden dining tables
which features plump cubes of sea bass tossed
centred beneath statement pendant lights,
in a finely chopped flavoursome dill, mint and
allowing for a more intimate and relaxed
coriander confetti, alongside showstopping
version of the gastronomic experience. Even
dishes such as wild red Madagascar shrimp.
the mini-bars are stocked with locally sourced
Lightly-grilled grey mullet is filleted at the
treats, including traditional jelly-like Mastiha
table, with the briny butter-soft fish married
loukoums sweets from the Greek island of
with a warm tangle of stamnagathi (wild
Chios, dried figs from the coastal town of Kymi,
greens) dressed with lemon and olive oil, and
and a selection of local herbal teas.
served with a citrus-scented glass of organic
Like many prophets returning to their
Malagouzia white wine from the vineyards of
homeland, Spiliadis was initially unsure as
Xristos Zafeiraki in the renowned winemaking
to how his project would be received. “It
Tyrnavos region near Larissa. The dessert menu
is a challenge to persuade Athenians that
is a celebration of the nation’s favourite sweet
Xenodocheio Milos represents genuinely the
treats, with karidopita walnut cake and syrup-
creative synthesis of tradition and modern
soaked baklava both making the cut. Spiliadis’
Greece,” he concludes. “I am very happy to see,
signature dish is a blini-like pyramid of gently-
from the way the restaurant has been received in
fried zucchini and eggplant wafers; the light-
Athens, that this is the case. It is a reaffirmation
as-air vegetable chips are served with a creamy
for my lifelong work.”
yoghurt tzatziki for dipping purposes.
IN A BITE Owner: Intrakat Operator: Epoque Collection Architecture: A1 Architects, Dimitris Agiostratitis Interior Design: Nikolas Travasaros, Divercity Chef: Costas Spiliadis Head Sommelier: George Spiliadis www.xenodocheiomilos.com
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© Steven Joyce
The Aubrey Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park LONDON An artistic and eccentric twist on the traditional izakaya goes all out on classical cooking techniques and creative cocktails. Words: Shanna McGoldrick • Photography: © Lateef Photography (unless otherwise stated)
T
he Japanese izakaya is enjoying a moment
immersive. “We really embraced the notion
in the spotlight in London, which appears
of fully transforming the space, making it feel
to have well and truly developed a taste
inherent to British eccentricity,” says Shayne
for the casual drinking and snacking spots.
Brady, Co-Owner of Brady Williams.
Naturally, the British capital has put its own
Located in the basement of the upscale
spin on the trend, taking the laidback concept
Knightsbridge hotel, the venue – which was once
to sophisticated heights, and in February,
a gentlemen’s club – is divided into multiple
Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park threw its hat
distinct and individually decadent areas. Entry
into the ring with the launch of its highly-
is via the bar, a statement structure crafted
anticipated venue, The Aubrey.
from Verde Pavone green marble, while further
The bar and restaurant – which replaces the
exploration reveals a library, salon, a curio
hotel’s cherished eatery Bar Boulud – is being
lounge, private dining room and an omakase
billed as an ‘eccentric izakaya’. A whimsical and
bar – each boasting its own look and catering
romantic ode to the Japonisme art movement
to a variety of clientele. Large tables for groups
that swept across Europe in the mid-1800s,
are countered by intimate nooks and booths that
its name is a tribute to the 19th century British
ensure that duos and solo diners are equally well
artist and illustrator Aubrey Beardsley, who was
looked-after. “The idea was that you would have
closely associated with the aesthetic.
different experiences depending on the time of
The Aubrey is the first UK venture for the
day, and also depending on your mood,” Brady
award-winning Hong Kong-based restaurant
explains of the layout. “It’s also important to
group Maximal Concepts, who worked with
make sure that people in ones and twos feel
interior design studio Brady Williams to create
really comfortable and loved, so oftentimes they
a space that was both transformational and
have the best seats in the house.”
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The Aubrey’s food menu spotlights the classical techniques of edomae sushi, tempura and robata
The architectural bones of the venue have been carefully restored, with reclaimed fireplaces reinstated
capture the eccentricity and genius behind so many of our favourite experiences.”
and cornicing refurbished. This historical authenticity
This plurality extends to the soundtrack, with
underpins an opulent interior that incorporates
Japanese trap music, funk and disco transporting
sumptuous hues, rich textures and charming
drinkers to nights out in Tokyo’s Ginza neighbourhood.
tapestries, wall hangings and specially-commissioned
But when it comes to food, it’s the classical techniques
murals. The colour palette shifts between dusky pinks,
of edomae sushi, tempura and robata that take centre
deep greens and jewel-toned plums and golds, while
stage. Head Chef Andre Camilo’s menu features
surfaces are clad in velvet and marble, with inviting
elevated snacking food such as silky Japanese oysters,
and flatteringly low lighting throughout.
the venue’s own-label caviar and charred, juicy
The London iteration takes its cue in many ways
charcoal chicken karaage with yuzu mayo. There is
from the original Aubrey, which opened its doors at
crab korokke with tonyu béchamel, a wagyu sando and
Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong in 2021 – but while the
a rich, lip-smacking wagyu oxtail and bone marrow
British space doffs its cap to its Chinese counterpart,
fried rice. For hungrier diners, larger plates include
both Maximal Concepts and Brady Williams were keen
premium cuts of Iberico pork and saikyo sablefish
for it to tell its own story.
cooked over hot coals for a deliciously smoky finish.
“The overall design language is a continuation
The sashimi is prepared nigiri-style, with Head Sushi
and expansion of the Hong Kong venue,” says Matt
Chef Miho Sato showcasing fish varieties ranging
Reid, Co-Founder of Maximal Concepts, pointing out
from mackerel and sea bream to eel, while desserts
that the floorplate and original architecture brought
incorporate traditional Japanese flavours and include
contrast. “The spaces have very different light, so
black sesame cheesecake with citrus marshmallow and
they deviated naturally. In London, we’ve also added
comfort food in the form of a fluffy miso soufflé.
a library and a separate omakase bar, which really is a special experience.”
Drinking, of course, is the heart and soul of the izakaya experience, so Bar Director Pietro Rizzo has
Brady was also keen to develop a distinct identity. “I
crafted a menu of signature and seasonal cocktails that
always said it would be a cousin to The Aubrey Hong
spotlight sake and premium Japanese spirits: think
Kong, as opposed to a twin sister,” he explains. To that
sweet potato shochu, wasabi liqueur and umeshu,
end, certain key design elements have been imported
among others. “Japan is a treasure chest for unique
from Hong Kong, such as warm timber tones, patina
beverages and master distilleries,” says Reid. “From
brass and a combination of twisted green and warm
the much loved highball to the lesser known shochu,
amber colourways, which Brady Williams layered
we want to exhibit a menu that explores the flavours
with additional hues such as the aforemenetioned
and experiences found in Japan.” Creative concoctions
showstopping dusky pink. A unique art collection
include The Black Cat, made with Ki No Bi gin, yuzu
brings together Japonisme and the venue’s past as
liqueur and tonic reduction, and Torii – a combination
a gentlemen’s club via an impressive collection of
of rice shochu and homemade grapefruit soda. Should
meticulously-sourced antiques.
none of these fit the bill, the omakase bar’s extensive
Eccentricity runs like a vein through both the
collection of bottles can be relied upon to create
aesthetic and the mood of the venue. “Japan is so
bespoke libations, for a true replica of the Japanese
rich in culture and food,” says Reid. “We wanted to
hospitality experience.
IN A BITE Operator: Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group, Maximal Concepts Interior Design: Brady Williams Brand Identity: Maximal Concepts Head Chef: Andre Camilo Head Sushi Chef: Miho Sato Bar Director: Pietro Rizzo Head Sommelier: Winnie Toh www.mandarinoriental.com
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Public NEW YORK The evolution continues at Ian Schrager’s Big Apple brainchild, where a moody subterranean playground adds to the drama. Words: Ben Thomas Photography: Courtesy of Public
F
ew people have made an impact on New
visionary wasn’t about to let the opportunity go
York’s hospitality scene quite like Ian
to waste, and so set about rethinking the Public
Schrager. From the heyday of Studio 54 in
experience. “We didn’t want to reopen with the
the 1970s to the creation of the boutique hotel
same offer,” Schrager explains. “We needed a
movement with Morgans in 1984, the visionary
different energy and fresh ideas, surpassing
has undoubtedly left his mark on the city that
what was there before.”
never sleeps.
As a result, he added the Peruvian restaurant
More recently, Schrager’s focus in the Big
concept Popular, a Cantina & Pisco Bar, and
Apple has turned to Public, the brand he created
an improved fast gourmet food bazaar – all
in 2017 as a ‘luxury for all’ concept, where
overseen by chef Diego Muñoz, who previously
style and service combine with a sense of fun
took Astrid & Gastón in Lima to number one on
for a new kind of indulgence that comes at an
Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list.
affordable price point. The flagship has become
But in true Schrager fashion, he wasn’t
a popular spot among the city’s night owls,
finished yet. Having strengthened the hotel’s
and has also garnered industry recognition,
culinary credentials last summer, the designer
scooping a trophy at AHEAD Americas in 2018
introduced House of X, a subterranean nightclub
for best lobby and public spaces – thanks to
and performance venue that exudes a similarly
an Anish Kapoor-inspired escalator with an
playful personality to Studio 54. And then came
inviting amber glow that transports guests up
Bar Chrystie, a moody cocktail den inspired by
to the lively F&B venues.
The Bar Hemingway at The Ritz in Paris and
Little did Schrager know that three years later
Harry’s Bar in Venice. “Public is a project that
he would be forced to close the hotel’s doors.
will never be complete,” says Schrager of the
But despite the challenges of the pandemic, the
new additions. “We’re always evolving and
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© Liz Clayman
At Bar Chrystie, a cocktail menu crafted by mixologist Rob Krueger salutes barrel-aged spirits, while a sparkling wine selection has been curated by sommelier Amy Racine
bringing in new things, it’s the very nature of the hotel and what we do.” What he doesn’t often do, however, is hand over
and the clubs of East Berlin – they’re all in the same
the creative reins – an approach that changed for
zone of benign mayhem. House of X channels that
House of X thanks to forward-thinking nightlife
edgy attitude and provocativeness while adding a
entrepreneurs Anya Sapozhnikova, Kae Burke, Ilan
sense of sophistication.”
Telmont and Justin Ahiyon from Brooklyn events
Sticking with the theme of decadence, jazzy cocktail
venue House of Yes – the psychedelic alter ego to its
lounge Bar Chrystie invites guests into the lobby level
Manhattan counterpart. “It was nerve-racking as we
with rich blue velvet banquettes, crystal candelabras
wanted to improve the hotel but at the same time not
and a crackling fireplace. Here, Muñoz has teamed up
detract from what made it a success in the first place,”
with Michelin-starred chef John Fraser and mixologist
Schrager admits. “I’ve always handled the design as a
Rob Krueger to create bespoke tipples like Carmina
means of reinforcing the Public message. With House
Granada – a blend of tequila, pomegranate, cardamom
of X, it was smart of me to step aside.”
and vanilla – and Black Tie Optional that evoke New
Injecting a decadent character into the dimly-lit
York’s cocktail culture as well as 1920s Hollywood
space, House of X pairs rich leather banquettes with
glamour. “Bar Chrystie needed to have personality,”
Baroque-style elements such as gilded mirrors, which
Schrager confirms. “In a restaurant the food is
purposely create tension with the exposed brickwork.
paramount, whereas in a bar, it’s all about the spirit.
Enveloping the space, floor-to-ceiling theatrical red
It’s much more difficult to design a great bar than to
curtains serve as a backdrop to the carnival-esque
create a great restaurant, because if the food tastes
nightly performances, which Schrager believes give
good, that’s half the battle.”
the club “more depth, longevity and shelf life” in a market now driven by DJ appearances.
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“The nightclub business has evolved since the Studio 54 days,” he reflects. “Look at Burning Man
The food is certainly a triumph at Popular, described by Schrager as a “sanctuary in the midst of concrete
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© Nikolas Koenig
© Nikolas Koenig
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© Liz Clayman
070
surrounds” thanks to its jungle-like ambiance
It’s this progressive approach that ensures
and al fresco terrace. The menu is again a
guests return to Public time and time again,
collaboration between Muñoz and Fraser,
allowing them to spend the night in one of the
whose Peruvian-inspired cuisine celebrates the
newly-introduced venues, or hole up in the
nation’s multiculturalism – Incan, Spanish,
calming interiors of the guestrooms. On whether
Moorish, African, Italian, Chinese and Japanese
he has a treasured spot himself, Schrager
influences – through seafood, rotisserie meats
responds: “I don’t have a favourite – they’re
and vegetables, together with a dedicated
like my children! Despite being so different,
ceviche programme and a drinks offer focusing
they all come together as the totality is greater
on Peru’s most iconic spirit, pisco.
than the individual parts. It’s a symbiosis.”
Muñoz oversees the kitchen, cooking up
And he’s right. Though each space takes on a
dishes like wood-fire roasted pollo a la brasa
distinct personality and type of entertainment,
and a New York strip steak, but cuisine isn’t
they combine to create an all-encompassing
the only thing he rustles up. Honouring the
destination, catering to every personality, every
tradition of El Bulli in Catalonia, where he
mood and every occasion.
worked with Spanish chef Ferran Adrià, Muñoz
With more properties in the pipeline including
also prepares cocktails – from pisco sours to a
Los Angeles, Miami and London, Schrager plans
play on the traditional Peruvian highball – as
to build on what he’s created here. “New York is
natural extension of the food.
a blueprint for the Public brand and will serve as
“Our aim for Popular was to develop
a prototype for future openings,” he concludes.
something that is Peruvian in spirit but avoids
“Every hotel will have a completely unique
all the clichés associated with the country,” says
inspiration but encompass the same attitude –
Schrager, hinting at new dishes to come.
elegant, edgy and provocative.”
IN A BITE Owners: Ian Schrager, Steve Witkoff Operator: Ian Schrager Company Architecture: Herzog & de Meuron Interior Design: ISC Design, Bonetti/ Kozerski, House of Yes (House of X) Chefs: Diego Muñoz, John Fraser Mixologist: Rob Krueger F&B Director: Nick Porpiglia www.publichotels.com
VIBES CAN YOU FEEL IT?
WWW.SCHOENWALD.COM
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23.02.22 12:01
Grace & Savour Hampton Manor WEST MIDLANDS A country estate in the heart of the UK is hoping to redress the imbalance in the food supply chain, one seasonal dish at a time. Words: Shanna McGoldrick • Photography: © Fjona Hill
I
t’s a blustery February afternoon in the West Midlands countryside, and the kitchen garden at Grace & Savour is putting on a rather muted show. A row of parsnips are
among the roots and tubers peeking gingerly out from beneath the earth, but as Head Chef David Taylor leads guests around the neatly-curated grounds on a guided tour, the walled vegetable patch isn’t giving away many of its secrets. “You’ll have to come back in summer,” he jokes. Following the rhythm of the seasons is the central premise at Grace & Savour, which opened this year on the 45-acre Hampton Manor, a self-proclaimed ‘foodie estate’ that has been run by husband and wife James and Fjona Hill since 2008. Thanks to an onsite Michelin-starred fine-dining restaurant, Peel’s, and a second acclaimed eatery called Smoke, the property boasts impeccable culinary credentials – matched by a sumptuous design ethos that blends heritage touches with laidback luxuries, resulting in an easygoing country house vibe. Grace & Savour is the estate’s third food venue, and it might be its most intriguing yet. Set apart from the main house in what was formerly a timber yard, the restaurant is a stripped-back affair overlooking a historic one-acre walled garden planted with fruit, vegetables and herbs, with an
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The menu evolves according to what’s in season and what’s available, with the culinary team constantly pushing the boundaries of what they can create
apiary nestled into the far corner. It also comes with
restorative 24-hour stay, guests move cyclically
five plush, generously-appointed bedrooms, designed
between the garden, the restaurant and the bedrooms,
by Fjona and each spotlighting regional artisans and
as the changing light casts sundial-like shadows on
craftspeople. Blessed with high ceilings, natural
the restaurant floor. There’s a tour of the garden,
light and freestanding bathtubs, the bedrooms are a
a luxuriously languid 15-course dinner and, the
calming haven of soft tones, rustic textures and earthy
following day, a laidback workshop in which everyone
hues that root the decor to nature.
recreates a dish from the previous night’s menu,
Because, make no mistake, nature is the headline
cooking and eating their own lunch.
act here. David – who came to Hampton Manor
Working with what they’ve harvested from the
from the triple-starred Maaemo in Oslo – helms the
garden and sourced from trusted suppliers, the
restaurant alongside his wife Anette, in the role of
culinary team perpetually respond to what’s in season
House Manager, and together the two have created
and what’s available. The menu evolves accordingly
a 24-hour immersive epicurean experience centred
in the restaurant’s development kitchen, with staff
around provenance. But this is no ubiquitous farm-to-
constantly harvesting, pickling, fermenting or
table joint: the couple are championing a progressive
preserving, and pushing the boundaries of what they
farming and growing model that they believe lays the
can create.
foundations for a more diverse and naturally resilient
The kitchen garden follows organic principles, and
future, and yields food that is richer in both nutrients
the emphasis on sustainability extends to the supplier
and flavour. Their aim is to help redress the balance in
network: fish, for example, is sourced from fishers
a ‘broken’ food chain that often penalises suppliers, by
using vessels that are a maximum of 10 metres long.
sourcing directly from farmers and producers across
It’s an environmentally sensitive method, but one
the UK, enlightening diners along the way.
that leaves the menu vulnerable to weather-related
If it sounds preachy, it’s not: the focus is still very
disruption, as the boats can’t go out in bad conditions.
much on gastronomy, and guests are free to learn as
“If a storm comes along, there’ll be no fish,” explains
much – or as little – as they like. “We leave room for
David. “We have to take it off the menu.”
people to ask the questions, so they’re not having a
As a business model, it sounds fairly stressful. But
full on discussion at the table,” says Fjona. “I think
it helps that before opening, David and Anette spent
if it provokes curiosity in people and they go away
12 months touring the UK, building relationships with
and learn or read a little more, that for me is a mark
farmers, fishers and growers incorporating principles
of success.”
such as rewilding, diversification, agroforestry and
Grace & Savour’s talents lie, as its name suggests,
arable farming into their work. The experience taught
in the twin philosophies of unexpected generosity
them a lot about the issues faced by producers in the
and unhurried appreciation. Over the course of a
modern food chain system – “we had so many mind-
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blowing moments,” says Anette – and how
leaven is topped with tartare of wild boar from
Grace & Savour could have a positive impact.
nearby Shropshire. It even makes an appearance
For David, whose time at Maaemo instilled in
at dessert, where it takes on the sticky, honeyed
him the art of telling a cultural story through
consistency of cake and is accompanied by
the craftsmanship of food, the tricky moments
silky-smooth brown butter ice cream.
are where the magic lies. “I think that’s what
Grace & Savour’s principles are driving
makes it exciting,” he says. “I find it easy to
a cuisine that seems almost unreasonably
be creative in that situation, rather than when
lavish, and though there are unlikely to be any
you’ve got loads of options.”
complaints from diners, it seems a difficult
It’s certainly paying off. Despite its subdued
road to take. Is it worth it? The response is
appearance, the winter kitchen garden more
unequivocal. “It’s 100% worth it,” says David.
than delivers: an exquisite February tasting
“The produce that comes in has just been taken
menu champions produce in its entirety,
out of the ground. There’s a different level of
featuring gratifyingly crispy Jerusalem
care and love that goes into what we’re seeing.”
artichoke skins filled with artichoke and bay leaf
He adds: “The carrots we receive are a bit
pickle, carrots cooked in their own juices, and a
wonky, but they’re so fresh and flavoursome,
velvety-rich dish of Welsh black beef simmered
you can’t really question it.”
in a sauce of roasted beef bones. Nowhere is
“This is the story we want to tell, to work
the team’s creativity more impressive than in
with nature to really create something special,”
the inventive repetition of ingredients: for one
adds Anette. “We wouldn’t do it any differently.
course, sourdough appears hot and seeded in
We’re undoubtedly going to face challenges that
miniature loaves, served up with a slab of grain-
we’ll need to figure out, but we’re willing to
infused butter; in another, fried sourdough
want to face them.”
IN A BITE Owner / Operator: Hampton Manor Interior Design: Fjona Hill Head Chef: David Taylor House Manager: Anette Taylor Restaurant Manager: Tamsin George www.hamptonmanor.com
DINING
Piece of Cake Afternoon tea is a staple of the hotel F&B experience, but as consumer appetites evolve, operators are getting creative in modernising the much-loved pastime. Words: Jenna Campbell
I
t’s more than 150 years since Anna Russell, the
sentiment that has surely been strengthened by the
7th Duchess of Bedford, inadvertently invented
behavioural changes brought about by the pandemic.
afternoon tea to quell the hunger pains she
Covid-19 has taken at-home dining to new heights,
experienced between lunch and dinner. She found
making grab-and-go options an even more attractive
that a light meal of sandwiches and cakes suitably
prospect for hoteliers.
curbed her appetite, or so the story goes, and began
In Hong Kong, The Peninsula – first opened in 1928
inviting high society to join her in what soon became
– has been savvy in keeping with the times, having
a quintessentially British social ritual.
transformed its basement into an intimate boutique
Despite its enduring popularity, the format isn’t
and café offering a more informal alternative to the
immune to change. Increased competition, evolving
seated afternoon tea experience. Envisioned by Conran
tastes and a shift in the way consumers shop, dine and
and Partners, the open-plan emporium includes
gather have inevitably led to an overhaul. No longer
a central counter display for take-outs, as well as
seen as a dated tradition for the golden age, it’s the
an area for tastings, a café and a bookstore. “The
desires of the younger generation that are, in part,
Boutique and Café offers a more fluid, immediate and
driving innovation. Owing to to increased spending
relaxed access to a similar level of experience, but in
power and an appetite for the experiential, there’s
a different setting and atmosphere that guests can
been a notable rise in the emergence of alternative
easily dip in and out of,” says Tina Norden, Partner
afternoon tea concepts geared to every demographic
at Conran and Partners.
of hotel guest.
© Calvin Courjon
The new dining-meets-retail space has also been
The shake-up can also be explained by a move
designed to extend the brand’s reach. “Often grab-
towards casual dining and convenience. A 2020 study
and-go or more casual offers – though The Peninsula
carried out by the US marketing practice Culinary
Boutique is definitely a very upmarket version of the
Visions found that 62% of consumers would consider
type – are an entry into a brand, in particular high-end
buying take-away items from a hotel point of sale – a
aspirational ones,” explains Norden. “These smaller,
© Henrik Hui
© Laszlo Sifter
DINING
As operators adapt to evolving consumer tastes, the boundaries of the traditional afternoon tea experience are expanding
more immediate customer-facing elements also allow for some experimentation; whilst they are an extension and reflection of the core brand, these more informal settings can also be a place to test out new flavours, offerings and designs.” The hotel’s Afternoon Indulgence tea sets feature ceramic Peninsula bears and 3D printed chocolate alongside its famed scones and Deutz Champagne, appealing to a younger audience. Meanwhile, finger sandwiches, artisanal chocolates and seasonal delicacies cater for those on the go. “It’s easy to come in and take-away, or stay and enjoy a coffee, but neither requires a long time commitment,”
“Having become renowned in the city for its afternoon tea offering, La Pâtisserie was a natural progression, allowing city-dwellers to make Aman part of their daily routine.” HUGO SANALITRO
Designed by Tokyo-based Bond Design Studio, the venue takes inspiration from the hotel with a counter crafted from the same basalt stone found in its cocktail bar. Diners can watch the chefs at work in the glass-enclosed kitchen, which serves as a theatrical focal point to the space. Alongside handmade cakes, breads and French pastries, customers can buy take-away lunch items and celebration cakes packaged in traditional Japanese kōbako boxes. “As the world emerges from the pandemic and begins to turn once again, people’s time becomes more precious – and therefore hotels and resorts are challenged with finding new ways to engage with prospective guests,” explains Sanalitro.
says Norden. In London, The Berkeley’s Prêt-à-Portea
“A pastry shop allows us to extend our brand
concept – which has famously paid tribute to
to a different type of clientele, who then have
the artistry of Dolce & Gabbana, Burberry and
the potential to become future guests.”
Simone Rocha – continues to attract fashion-
Some hotels are eschewing the traditional
forward afternoon tea lovers. This year
afternoon tea format in favour of a dessert-
however, the hotel has upped the stakes with
focused concept. Earlier this year, The Bulgari
the launch of an in-house patisserie fronted by
Lounge at The Bulgari Hotel London launched
pastry chef Cédric Grolet. As well as offering
a signature Dolci experience, overseen by the star pastry chef and chocolatier-in-residence
two gourmet experiences throughout the day – a ‘petit déjeuner’ breakfast and a ‘goûter’ snack
the body and swivel to support total comfort,
Gianluca Fusto. “When the hotel opened in
menu – diners can purchase Grolet’s famous
encouraging people to linger and take time to
2012, the take-away items from the pastry
trompe-l’oeil fruit and flower delicacies to take
luxuriate in their pastries,” explains Rogers.
counter were very popular straight away,”
away. The lab-like space will also offer globally
“This focus on the consumer experience,
notes Matteo Vanzi, Food & Beverage Manager
exclusive tasting menus, illustrating the variety
crafting the space to make them feel considered,
at Bulgari Hotel London. “When you love a
that creative pastry concepts can bring to hotels.
helped to carry through the hotel’s attention to
brand, you want to take a little home with you,
detail and customer care.”
so many local residents from Knightsbridge,
In fact, Maybourne Hotel Group has already
Kensington, Mayfair and Chelsea pop in to pick
gained recognition for its pastries. In 2020,
Such concepts can also be an effective means
The Berkeley’s sister property The Connaught
of driving brand strategy – as with the new La
opened The Connaught Patisserie, where Ab
Pâtisserie by Aman Tokyo in Japan, a standalone
Focusing on three-ingredient creations, Fusto
Rogers Design drew inspiration from intricately
take-away concept located in the same building
layers flavours boldly and unexpectedly. His
crafted jewellery boxes to create a café-style
as the hotel. “Having become renowned in the
menu encompasses torte, mono porzioni (cakes
extension to the hotel – a more relaxed
city for its afternoon tea offering, La Pâtisserie
for one), desserts and il cioccolato bespoke
alternative to the Afternoon Tea at Jean-Georges
was a natural progression, allowing city-
handcrafted chocolate gems, representing an
experience next door. The interiors take on a
dwellers to make Aman part of their daily
informal yet elevated take on afternoon tea.
frosted pink hue, accompanied by an elegant
routine – whether grabbing a coffee, enjoying
“Crafted at my development kitchen laboratory
marble display counter and a playful sculpted
a light lunch or taking home a delicious cake
in Fusto Milano, the menu I’ve created is
clock that tells the time according to which
for a special occasion,” says Hugo Sanalitro,
entirely unique, developed from finding elegant
freshly-baked sweet has just emerged from the
F&B Director at Aman Tokyo. “While many
new flavour pairings, which provide harmony
oven. “We hung pink, hand-blown crystal lights
guests still enjoy the refined atmosphere of
and balance when added together,” he explains.
over long, supple leather benches in pink and
Afternoon Tea at The Lounge by Aman, there
Highlights include Maya, the chef’s signature
grey and surrounded intimate circular marble
is also demand for our pastries and cakes to be
dish of Tulakalum dark chocolate, Ispica sesame
tables with voluptuous curved chairs that cradle
enjoyed in the comfort of home.”
seeds and caramel, and Sicily, a light, subtle
up something sweet.”
081
DINING
“When you love a brand, you want to take a little home with you.” MATTEO VANZI
In Tokyo, Aman has opened a new patisserie as a standalone take-away concept that caters to city-dwellers
082
pastry combining the refreshing flavours of
destination for locals and guests,” explains Kerry
fennel and almond. “My minimalist Italian-
O’Connor, F&B Director at Hotel Café Royal.
style patisserie looks very different from
“The pandemic encouraged the hospitality
traditional English pastries and there is less
industry to adapt to new ways of providing
reliance on cream and sugar,” reveals Fusto.
special experiences outside of their venues.
But imaginative doesn’t need to mean
We started offering a delivery service during
informal; at Mayfair’s Hotel Café Royal, two
lockdown and noticed an uptick in revenue.
distinct afternoon tea concepts offer elevated
Even post-lockdown our customers and visitors
culinary experiences. Acclaimed pastry chef
love having the option of experiencing the magic
Albert Adrià, who helms the hotel’s Cakes &
of Cakes & Bubbles at home.”
Bubbles dessert restaurant, is behind one of
For luxury hotel brands looking to stand
them; his diners can indulge in mesmerisingly
out from the glut of independent and artisan
creative sweet treats, from a ‘rose’ made of
bakeries, establishing a balance between
lychee, raspberry and rosewater, to an optical
the nostalgic value of existing afternoon tea
illusion cheesecake made with Baron Bigod
experiences and imaginative new retail-led
cheese, hazelnut and white chocolate. The Oscar
approaches is proving increasingly important.
Wilde Lounge, meanwhile, has partnered with
Harnessing the star power of in-house culinary
the immersive Van Gogh digital art exhibition to
teams and world-renowned pastry chefs will
offer a multi-sensory tasting journey through
continue to raise the bar, but the true challenge
the artist’s seminal works.
will be redefining the scope and scale of the
“Every afternoon tea experience is completely different, each drawing on the hotel’s rich cultural history whilst providing a modern
model in response to evolving consumer appetites in the post-pandemic era.
MyGlassStudio
SIGNATURE
Eton Mess Moreish Fairmont Windsor Park WINDSOR
Eton Mess – perhaps the most symbolically English of desserts
with a sprinkling of chocolate soil along with lemon balm and
– is known for its deliciously chaotic composition, featuring
mint cress for freshness. It is served on a Villeroy & Boch plate
a heady jumble of pulpy strawberries, whipped cream and
created exclusively for the hotel.
crushed meringue. But diners might be surprised to receive
“We looked at what goes into an Eton Mess and how we could
an altogether slicker version at Moreish, the all-day dining
play around with the ingredients to elevate it to the next level,
restaurant at the newly-opened Fairmont Windsor Park.
thinking of taste, texture and presentation,” explains Brega.
Executive Head Chef Mark Brega’s adaptation of the summer classic – which is believed to have emerged from the historic
“We decided to break it down to its basic elements and turn it into a delicately presented dish full of flavour and textures.” The seasonal pudding will return to the Moreish menu in
and textures of the original, yet is served in a new way. English
late spring, and Brega looks forward to playfully confounding
strawberries are blitzed with cream from Jersey cows to create
expectations when it arrives tableside. “It makes people rethink
a smooth mousse, which is combined with vanilla chantilly
what a dish is all about,” he concludes. “Until they taste it and
cream, coated in a glossy strawberry pectin glaze, and finished
recognise familiar tastes and see what we did.”
© Viktor Kery
Eton College in the late 1800s – retains the spirited flavours
SIGNATURE
Vegetable Garden Tenjin, Roku KYOTO
During Japan’s Edo period, a medicinal plant garden called
hotel’s own garden, the dish is suggestive of a vegetable
Yakuso-en thrived at the foothills of the Takagamine
parfait, arranged to showcase the colours and textures of
mountains, northwest of Kyoto. Today, the region is home
the produce.
to the luxurious new hotel Roku Kyoto and its fine-dining
Ingredients change with the seasons; a spring version
restaurant Tenjin, which is named after the ancient river
might include asparagus, bamboo shoot and rape blossom,
that cuts through the district. Helmed by Chef de Cuisine
while summer diners will feast on tomato, zucchini, mint
Akira Taniguchi, Tenjin uses seasonal ingredients to pay
and rosemary. Lyophyllum shimeji mushrooms and Kyoto
tribute to the motifs of nature, art and cuisine – and to
eggplant take centre stage in the autumn, and lotus root
continue a tradition established centuries ago.
and ebi-imo make an appearance in the colder months.
Historically, vegetables harvested from Yakuso-en
“We carefully choose the method for cooking depending
were offered to the shogunate. At Tenjin, Taniguchi pays
on the type of vegetable in order to bring out their best
tribute to the custom with his signature dish, aptly named
natural flavours,” explains Taniguchi. “This could mean
Vegetable Garden. Featuring seasonal Kyoto vegetables,
boiling, grilling, or serving them fresh. Guests should be
as well as edible flowers and fresh herbs grown in the
able to taste the beautiful seasons of Japan on the plate.”
SIPPING DINING
Shaking It Up Tradition meets innovation at London’s grand dame hotels, where a new generation of mixologists are shaking up the cocktail scene. Words: Jenna Campbell
L
ondon certainly knows a good
Best Bars ranking for the second year running
cocktail: after all, it has a drinking
– a testimony to the enduring appeal of its
history stretching back centuries, and
approach, which includes the famed martini
a rich lineage of some of the most
trolley from which concoctions are crafted
recognisable bars in the world. Little
tableside using the hotel’s own gin. But it isn’t
wonder, then, that some of its best
the only long-established British hotel bar to
are to be found in the capital’s most prestigious
shine bright in the annual rankings; Artesian
grande dame hotels, which cater to the classic,
at The Langham and The American Bar at The
the contemporary, and everything in-between.
Savoy have both held the title in the last decade.
These historic watering holes lay claim to
When it comes to hotel cocktail bars, then,
some of society’s most famous libations,
older really can mean wiser. But decades
from the original ‘shaken, not stirred’ Vesper
of experience and cultural heritage haven’t
Martini conceived at Dukes Bar, to the Hanky-
rendered London’s treasured drinking dens tired
Panky, created by Ada Coleman at The Savoy’s
– quite the opposite. In a metropolis straining
American Bar in 1903.
with the creative, the fun and the avant-garde,
Of course, a top-class drinking establishment
no establishment can afford to rest on its
requires a great deal of ingredients: ambiance,
laurels – not even the grandes dames of the
menu, service and surroundings are all crucial.
city’s illustrious hospitality scene. Thanks to
But for many there’s also a certain imperceptible
a raft of shrewd, skilful and adroit bartenders
artistry to the finest venues that sets them apart
and mixologists, the city’s most storied bars are
and holds them steady through the tests of time.
often, these days, among its most innovative.
Perhaps nowhere is this more evident that
Here, Supper sits down to speak with the
at The Connaught Bar – the pre-eminently
fresh faces at some of the capital’s oldest
popular Art Deco drinking den nestled into the
establishments, charged with pushing the
prestigious Mayfair hotel of the same name.
boundaries of bartending to keep their edge in
In 2021 it took the top spot in the World’s 50
one of the world’s most competitive bar scenes.
SIPPING
Giulia Cuccurullo Head Bartender Artesian, The Langham
“We feel that building a strategy to win awards
to the table,” says Cuccurullo. “It uses rum, a
is not the best course of action,” asserts
distillate made with chocolate malt and mezcal
Giulia Cuccurullo, Head Bartender of Artesian,
and some bitters, plus a layer of coconut cream
The Langham London’s flagship drinking
with a little bit of lime grated on top.”
establishment. “We naturally always keep
And while the menu includes a dedicated
an eye on the competition, but we think that
sustainability section, Cuccurullo’s commitment
most of all it’s important to look inwards, to
to the issue is much more than a box ticking
establish how we can translate our creativity
exercise. “For me, sustainability is something
and passion for cocktails and hospitality into a
that needs to be considered regardless,” she
drinking experience that is enjoyed by seasoned
says. “It doesn’t need to be shouted loudly but
aficionados as well as hotel guests popping in
it always needs to be considered.” She adds: “In
for a drink after dinner.”
the case of Treat Yourself 2.0, we use techniques
Following in the footsteps of Marco Corallo
where the only wastage is in the solid part,
and Remy Savage, Cuccurullo, an architecture
which is created when we separate the liquid
graduate from Naples who joined Artesian in
from the yoghurt and strawberries. That part
2018 and was promoted to Head Bartender
doesn’t go to waste though – we dehydrate it
in 2021, brings a fresh approach to cocktail
and blitz it to decorate the glass.”
making; one that is rooted in a respect for
As well as employing the latest bartending
balance, form and structure. “I like to create
techniques – think centrifuging, distillation
drinks that look effortless,” she says. “My
and vacuum-sealing – to create Artesian’s
style could be described as quite simple with
contemporary menus, Cuccurullo keeps her
presentation that is easy-on-the-eye, but at
finger on the pulse of consumer preferences
the same time a lot of thought has gone into
in wake of the pandemic. “Sugar content on
it. I also like to find ingredients that are not
menus is something I have noticed recently, and
commonly paired together or, if they are, I aim
it relates to how guests are now drinking,” she
to build on that.”
explains. “Before the pandemic, there wasn’t
While she may not be chasing awards, her
as much interest, but now we have people
drinks are certainly prize-worthy. A shining
enquiring about calorie content, so that can be
example is Artesian’s 2021 Connections menu,
taken into consideration. We’ve also had a big
which was inspired by the shared experiences
increase in requests for non-alcoholic versions
that brought the UK together during successive
because people are now more conscious of what
lockdowns. Divided into five sections – Wellness
they’re eating and drinking, where ingredients
& Mindfulness, Celebration, Community,
come from and how things taste.”
Sustainability and Happiness – the drinks list
This year Artsesian will launch a follow-up
encompasses a variety of serves and ingredients
to its showstopping Connections menu, and
from low- and no-ABV variations, as well as
while Cuccurullo remains tight-lipped about
CBD-focused concoctions and upcycled drinks
the finer details, it promises to respect themes
created using produce from the hotel kitchen.
of the past, while also focusing on the future.
From the joyful Treat Yourself 2.0, an homage
“We work hard to develop drinks that surprise
to strawberries and cream featuring Grey
and delight,” she reveals. “We are currently
Goose, strawberries, Regal Rogue Rose, milk
looking at what makes Artesian, Artesian, and
punch and Taittinger Rosé Champagne, to the
want our new menu to be a translation of that.
decadent Layer Cake, an assembly of dark rum,
Watch this space.”
stout syrup chocolate malt and whipped cream, each cocktail brings its own sense of identity. “Layer Cake is one that I really like to make, as it’s so satisfying to look at when you send it
090
“We work hard to develop drinks that surprise and delight. We are currently looking at what makes Artesian, Artesian, and want our new menu to be a translation of that.”
SIPPING
Angelo Sparvoli Head Bartender Sofitel St James
In January, Sofitel London St James announced
For his new menu, Sparvoli plans to build on
the appointment of Angelo Sparvoli as Head
the success of the bar’s current Imagination
Bartender at St James Bar, a decadent and
offering, which uses unique flavour profiles,
intimate cocktail destination in the heart of
molecular techniques and sustainable processes
London’s West End. It signalled the latest
to create a sensory cocktail experience. “We
chapter in an adventurous career for the Italian-
are looking at bringing in some new tools
born bartender, whose professional journey
and trending techniques, which will allow
began in his home region of Le Marche and has
us to express our creativity at best, such as
since taken him around the globe in pursuit of
fermentation and ultrasonic infusions, with a
fresh inspiration, flavours and connections.
focus on sustainability,’’ explains Sparvoli. “I
After developing his craft in Italy and Portugal,
believe that there can’t be innovation without
Sparvoli joined the team at The American Bar
tradition. Future menus will feature drinks
at The Savoy in 2016, progressing from barback
inspired by some of the all-time classics,
to bartender under Bar Manager Declan McGurk
giving people the chance to relate new and
and Head Bartender Erik Lorincz. During this
innovative drinks to their taste and usual choice
time, the venue garnered multiple awards,
of cocktails, making the process easier.”
winning World’s Best Bar at the Spirited Awards
Keeping tabs on the wider drinks industry and
in 2018 and taking the number one spot at the
the categories expected to grow in popularity
World’s 50 Best Bars 2017 edition. While at The
is par for the course. Sparvoli believes that the
Savoy, Sparvoli travelled extensively, spending
ready-to-drink, sherry and mezcal categories
time researching and building on his knowledge
are the ones to watch. “People used to be a little
in locations such as the US, Peru and Japan.
scared of tequila but our role is to help people
“I believe travelling gives you a different
understand that it can make for a great drinking
perspective of how things are done, especially
experience,” he notes. “I also think sherry will
in the bartending community,” says Sparvoli.
become more popular; it’s something I see every
“I’ve been to New York, Washington and New
day and even more in cocktails. I personally love
Orleans and each place has its own way of doing
it – it’s an incredibly versatile product to use
things. I was also really impressed by Peruvian
as it brings a nuttiness and minerality that has
culture when I visited Lima in 2018, particularly
a little body.”
the way it has influenced the F&B scene. As a
The mixologist also believes the future of bars
bartender, I feel it’s really important to travel
will be defined by striking the right balance
and see how others work.”
between theatrical drinks made for social media
St James Bar’s soft lighting, antique mirror
and the more refined classics on which many
tables and rich mohair velvet banquettes set the
famed London bars built their reputations.
tone for a highly refined drinking experience,
“I can see from my own research that tastes
and one that Sparvoli is hoping to take to the
are returning to more classic drinks – I think
next level. “We bring to the table some of
we’ve reached a peak with the experiential,”
the latest trends in terms of cocktails, with
says Sparvoli. “I don’t necessarily mean simple
the objective of making the guest experience
in terms of preparation, but neat and clean,
entertaining and pleasant, without going too
serving drinks in elegant glassware with ice and
technical with the risk of being overwhelming,”
a garnish that isn’t too out there. Because of
he says. “I strongly believe that a good bar is
the increasing number of low- and no-alcohol
first and foremost about people, with cocktails
options there will be a lot of preparation, but I
being the tools that deliver an experience. We
believe it will be much more straightforward – a
aim to provide a friendly yet professional service
return of sorts to minimalism.”
to make people feel comfortable and guide them through their choices.”
092
“I strongly believe that a good bar is first and foremost about people, with cocktails being the tools that deliver an experience.”
© Tom Elms Photography
SIPPING
Nathan McCarley-O’Neill Director of Mixology Claridge’s
Nathan McCarley-O’Neill earned his stripes
the archives looking at past dinner parties,
heading up cutting-edge bars on both sides
menus and everything you could imagine
of the Atlantic, working as bar manager at the
about Claridge’s and produced this beautiful
former Mondrian London’s Dandelyan and The
book, giving a timeline from when Claridge’s
NoMad New York before taking up the role of
Bar opened 30 years ago right through to The
Director of Mixology at the legendary Claridge’s
Painter’s Room,” reflects McCarley-O’Neill.
in May 2021. The Belfast-born drinks specialist,
As you might expect of someone named
who also became Assistant Director of Food &
World’s Most Experimental Bartender at the
Beverage at the hotel in 2021, has wasted no
Glenfiddich Global Competition and Bartender
time in re-ingratiating himself in London’s
of the Year 2017 at Heaven Hill’s National
fast-paced bar scene, taking the reins at the
Bartender competition, McCarley-O’Neill takes
property’s bars The Fumoir and Claridge’s Bar.
innovation very seriously. How does this extend
He has also successfully overseen the launch
to Claridge’s? Thoughtfully-considered low-
of the hotel’s first standalone cocktail bar in
and no-alcohol options are one example. “I
more than 25 years, The Painter’s Room, which
wanted to make sure non-alcoholic drinks are
opened last September and approaches its
looked at with the same focus and threshold
drinks through a European prism. “We wanted
as alcoholic drinks,” he says. “Instead of
to highlight how important Europe has been
replicating the feeling of alcohol, we’ve looked
from a drinks perspective, because when you
to create drinks that are completely original
look back at cocktail history it’s geared towards
and taste different from alcohol, because what
the United States, yet a lot of ingredients come
I find when I’m not drinking is that I don’t
from Europe,” explains McCarley-O’Neill.
want to have the reminiscence of alcohol. I want
The drinks menu at The Painter’s Room sees its four chapters – Light, Interpretations,
complex and stirred down.”
Complex and Clean – draw inspiration from
He also has sugary cocktails in his sight. “I’ve
European art, culture and design. “One of our
been researching how sugar affects the body
signature cocktails is Almost A Bellini, which
and to what extent each type is digested,” he
we created to focus more on rosé wine and the
says. “We’ve been looking at whether we can
peach flavours within,” notes McCarley-O’Neill.
work with sugar that occurs naturally in fruit;
“We use a wine from Provence made by Château
through cooking, reducing, dehydrating and
La Coste, flavour it with peach, and carbonate it
distilling we can make something that doesn’t
to achieve the same effervescence, texture and
necessarily have the sweetness, but a textural
feeling as drinking champagne.”
element within the drink that brings something
As well as developing new menus for The
quite unique.”
Painter’s Room and The Fumoir, McCarley-
There’s no slowing down for 2022, either:
O’Neill wrote and edited ‘Claridge’s: The
this year will see the launch of Claridge’s Gin,
Cocktail Book’, which launched last autumn.
a project McCarley-O’Neill worked closely on,
Spanning 150 years of expert mixology and
selecting everything from ingredients to the
400 recipes, this boozy bible is an ode to the
label and bottle cap design. “We wanted to do
hotel’s enduring reputation for crafting the
something in the nature of Claridge’s, taking
most drinkable concoctions. From icons such
into account the last 100 years of history to
as the Martini and Brandy Crusta to newer in-
produce a tipple that can be toasted over the next
house classics like The Flapper – the signature
century,” he notes. “What makes Claridge’s so
Crème de Cassis-spiked champagne cocktail
special is that when you walk in, it’s always so
created for the unveiling of Claridge’s Bar in
welcoming, you can feel the history within.”
1998 – the book pays homage to the hotel’s cocktail making legacy. “We went back through
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something that’s beautiful and refreshing, or
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COCKTAIL
Passionate The Bar Aman Venice VENICE
“The great art of life is sensation,” wrote the eminent Romantic, Lord Byron. It is an edict taken seriously by The Bar at Aman Venice, a sumptuous canalside drinking spot that serves as an homage to the legendary English poet. Each beverage on the menu draws inspiration from the eccentricities of Byron’s character, but none epitomises the wordsmith so succinctly as its masterpiece cocktail, Passionate. A combination of London Dry Gin, lychee liquor, lemon juice and rose syrup, Passionate is crafted using the traditional shake-and-strain technique, before a cold smoker is employed to create a rose vapour that acts as the finishing flourish. “When we serve this cocktail to our guests, we open a glass bell jar in front of them so they can fully appreciate the perfume effect of the rose before drinking,” explains Aman Venice’s Head Mixologist Antonio Ferrara. “It’s wonderful to see their surprise and delight as the scented smoke pours out of the bell jar as if by magic.” The coalescence of sweet and acidic flavours makes for an invigorating concoction, and as Ferrara points out, Passionate’s low alcohol content makes it an approachable and appealing choice for many. An alcohol-free version that replaces the gin and liquor with Seedlip Groove and lychee syrup is also available, meaning everyone can partake in the heady experience. For as Byron himself declared: “Life’s enchanted cup sparkles near the brim.”
COCKTAIL
Crystal Healing Sweeties The Standard LONDON
At Sweeties, London’s new Seventies-style cocktail spot, it isn’t just the modish velvet sofas, leather banquets and giant disco ball bringing the good vibes: the drinks list has been designed to chase away the blues, too.“We’re currently exploring the medicinal properties of different plants and foods,” explains mixologist Jack Sotti, who, along with his colleague Todd Austin, has curated a beverage offering that focuses on mood-boosting ingredients and energising adaptogens and nootropics. Take Crystal Healing – a reimagined whisky highball inspired by the rugged coast of Scotland. The vivid blue cocktail opens up with an ocean-like saltiness, thanks to a base of whisky that has been infused and distilled with the seaweed pepper dulse. The concoction is livened up by a dash of citrus cordial featuring concentrated bergamot – which adds a floral note – and filled with electrolyte-rich blue spirulina and coconut ice. It is then topped with a ‘sea salt foam’ created by using a foaming agent with coconut, bergamot, salt and water, to accentuate the existing flavours. The potential benefits are multifold; in addition to Crystal Healing’s cosmic appearance, studies suggest that bergamot may help reduce anxiety, inflamation and fatigue, while pepper dulse is an iodine-rich antioxidant. Coconut water moderates blood sugar and maintains hydration levels, and blue spirulina is a rich source of nutrients. It also happens to be as refreshing as they come – or, as Sotti puts it, “like having a dram in a rock pool”.
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DRINKS
Martin Miller’s Gin Summerful Gin With the Spring/Summer 2022 season on the horizon in the northern hemisphere, Martin Miller’s Gin is presenting a new limited batch of its first-ever seasonal variant. Known as Summerful, the tipple is created from the same blend of Martin Miller’s Original Gin – a signature balance of citrus and juniper – with added freshness that encapsulates the season. A third distillation of botanicals from England and Iceland – including Arctic thyme and rosemary – is added as a further homage to the brand’s dual heritage, which sees its English distilled gin blended with the purest Icelandic spring water. To the nose and confirmed by the palate, Arctic thyme brings a floral bouquet and distinctive earthy notes with hints of citrus and mint, and combines perfectly with the fresh flavour of lemon and pine aromas found in rosemary. Ever since the gin’s inception, transformation, experimentation and the pursuit of excellence have been at the heart of the brand; Martin Miller’s Summerful Gin is an illustration of how it continues to innovate in an ever-changing sector, whilst remaining true to these values. www.martinmillersgin.com
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DRINKS
Consorzio Tutela Prosecco DOC and Prosecco DOC Rosé A representation of Italian excellence, Consorzio Tutela occupies a distinct territory stretching between Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia; it is rich in tradition with a favourable climate that gives the Glera grapes unique elegance, balance, and contemporary flair. Prosecco DOC Rosé is a combination of Glera (minimum 85%) and Pinot Noir grapes (between 10 and 15%). It boasts the title Millesimato due to containing more than 85% of grapes of the vintage declared, and is produced sparkling and dry, from Brut Nature to Extra Dry. Prosecco DOC has built an identity by embracing its territory’s history and traditions, with olfactory elegance and moderate alcohol key to its continued commercial success. Consorzio di Tutela – the consortium for the protection of Prosecco DOC – works diligently to promote and protect the uniqueness of the DOC denomination. The group boasts 24,450 hectares of vineyards, 11,609 grape growers, 1,169 winemakers and 347 sparkling wine houses for a yearly total production of 627.5 million bottles, of which 71.5 million are Prosecco DOC Rosé. www.prosecco.wine
Gin d’Azur Gin d’Azur was created by master distiller Paul Caris in 2019 to capture the flavours and feelings associated with the Côte d’Azur. Taking inspiration from the famous beaches of southern France and inspired by the landscapes of Provence, Gin d’Azur is bursting with botanicals found in the region. Packed full of juniper, lavender, thyme, marjoram, star anise and rosemary from the fields of Provence together with Menton lemon peel and Sel de Camargue from the mouth of the Rhône, the spirit captures the essence and personality of the region. Each Provencal ingredient is harvested at its optimum ripeness and aromatic peak, distilled separately in copper pot stills over an open flame and then blended to form a distinctive and flavoursome product, a distillation process more common with Scotch and Cognac. www.gindazur.com
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THE PERFECT SCORE AWARDED TO 2016 GRANGE BY WORLD OF FINE WINE MAGAZINE Our flagship, Grange has been awarded over 25 perfect scores from global wine critics.
MEET EXTRAORDINARY
DRINKS
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Avión Avión Reserva Cristalino
Nyetimber Nyetimber Classic Cuvee Multi-Vintage
Pernod Ricard is tapping in to the soaring demand for prestige tequila by expanding its exclusive Reserva range with the launch of Avión Reserva Cristalino – the second release to join the Avión Reserva line-up. Distilled in the highlands of Jalisco, Mexico, using mature, hand-selected agave grown at the highest elevations, Avión Reserva Cristalino is crafted using a unique blend of the finest 12-month-old Añejo and a touch of three-year-old Extra Añejo Reserva. The liquid then undergoes double-charcoal filtration to achieve a clear tequila with a fruity, floral character, which carefully balances the citric nuances of agave with the signature taste and aroma of barrel ageing. www.pernod-ricard.com
A perfect balance of elegance and intensity, the signature wine of Nyetimber is a classic blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, all from Nyetimber’s vineyards and across several vintages. The pale golden hue and fine bubbles make the flagship Classic Cuvee Multi-Vintage the ideal occasion-ready drink – whether it’s toasting a big birthday or simply finishing a busy week. Following extensive ageing in the cellar (usually more than three years), the Classic Cuvee Multi-Vintage has distinctive toasty and spicy aromas. A palate of honey, almond, pastry and baked apples gives it a hint of decadence. The flagship cuvee pairs well with smoked salmon, oysters, scallops, asparagus and sushi. www.nyetimber.com
Drink responsibly There is an entire world of tradition, beauty and style inside every bottle of Prosecco DOC. That’s why Prosecco DOC is more than just sparkling. The Prosecco DOC Dreamland welcomes you to www.prosecco.wine
To The Table MEA 7-10 March 2022 AJMAN
Decision-makers and suppliers reunite in the UAE to talk all things business and hospitality. Words: Shanna McGoldrick Photography: © Richard Pereira
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It was with enthusiastic anticipation that senior
ones forged, To The Table MEA 2022 kicked off
corporate decision-makers and suppliers from
with the first of four seminars addressing the
the Middle East and Africa’s hospitality sector
pressing issues within the region’s hospitality
convened this March, for the first To The
sector. Chaired by writer, editor and media
Table MEA event in three years. The location:
consultant Devina Divecha, each session
Fairmont Ajman, a beachfront destination
featured diverse expert viewpoints and invited
boasting luxurious event spaces and sea views.
audience participation in a lively and immersive
The purpose: getting back to business.
discussion of the issue at hand.
More than 100 delegates congregated for the
Entitled The Culinary Perspective, the opening
invigorating three-day programme of tête-
seminar explored the region’s emerging trends.
à-têtes, industry seminars and networking
On stage were Andreas Krampl, Senior Director
dinners. Returning companies among the 44
of Culinary EMEA at Marriott International;
buyers in attendance included hotel groups
Naim Maadad, Chief Executive and Founder of
Accor, Hilton and Marriott International, all
Gates Hospitality; and Johan Scott Valentine,
of whom were represented by new delegates.
Corporate Director of Culinary at Rotana
Those present at the event for the first time
Hotel Management. The subject of food waste
included Jumeirah Group, Radisson Hotel
reduction sparked an enlightening debate, with
Group and Wyndham Hotels & Resorts. On the
Maadad stating: “This is not about food saving –
supplier side, Craster, Pernod Ricard, Steelite
it’s about saving humanity.” The environmental
and Villeroy & Boch were among the returnees,
impact of the breakfast buffet also came under
while Drinique, Modbar and Mogogo attended
scrutiny; asked about the future of the model,
for the first time.
Krampl highlighted an opportunity to focus on
After the initial buzz of a welcome dinner
smaller, fresher buffet menus, while Valentine
that saw old friendships reignited and new
emphasised the possibility of integrating live
EVENTS
cooking stations for a more targeted dining
offerings across the region. “Dubai is at maturity
final seminar – a pertinent topic, given the
experience. The trio also explored incorporating
and costs are not decreasing,” commented
sector’s current worldwide staffing shortages.
cloud kitchens within the hotel F&B model, and
Chalfoun. “Smaller, more efficient concepts
Inspiring the Next Generation of Hospitality
underlined the growing importance of compact
that offer a more focused approach is the only
Professionals saw David Singleton, Coach,
kitchens designed to handle multiple concepts,
way to go.”
Strategic Advisor and Partner at Socius Group,
particularly in an economic landscape that
Sustainable Strategies for a Changing
Michael Kitts, Director of Culinary Arts at The
Landscape was the topic of the third seminar.
Emirates Academy of Hospitality Management,
An engaging second seminar titled The Roaring
Jeffrey Smith, Vice President of Sustainability at
and Greg Wright, Co-founder and Managing
20s: Hospitality Trends and Projections for the
Six Senses; Philip Halanen, Head of Sourcing and
Partner at Food People, offered their thoughts
Decade Ahead saw Christian Abell, Founder
Sustainability EMEA at Wyndham; and Shahbaz
on how to motivate and attract the next
and Creative Officer at Architaste, and Joseph
Tiavar, Vice President Procurement Global at
generation of regional talent to the industry.
Chalfoun, Area Restaurants & Bars Director
Accor, discussed the complexities involved in
With the majority of the UAE’s workforce falling
MEA at Radisson Hotel Group, put forward their
introducing truly sustainable practices into
into the millennial age category, the topic of
analysis of the seismic shift in the hospitality
F&B supply chains within the region. Smith
opportunities for F&B businesses to adapt to a
sector over the last two years, and looked to
and Tiavar both pointed to the efforts their
candidate-driven market sparked an engaging
the future to pinpoint emerging narratives.
respective brands are making to tackle waste,
and wide-ranging discussion that touched on
The duo explored the importance of flexibility
with Accor committed to eliminating single-
the importance of long-term rewards, equity
in front-of-house design in a fast-moving F&B
use plastics by the end of 2022, and Six Senses
share to boost employee investment, and better
landscape, emphasised the enduring importance
aiming to become completely plastic-free
work-life balance. And with that, it was off for
of social media and touched on the burgeoning
within the same timeframe. Halanen underlined
a final evening of dinner, drinks and discussion.
trend for homegrown concepts being exported
the importance of data in driving sustainability,
internationally. Once again, ‘building smaller’
from communicating the benefits of new
was a key takeaway, with both professionals
practices to suppliers, to tackling greenwashing.
asserting the importance of more streamlined
All too soon it was time for the fourth and
prices space at a premium.
The next To The Table events take place in Bangkok from 4-6 October, and Malta from 21-23 November.
www.tothetablemea.com
107
Machinery that focuses on barista performance is a priority for manufacturers such as Modbar (top) and Cimbali Group (bottom)
The New Machine Age With the coffee machine sector growing globally, we explore how design is adapting to meet the needs of the horeca sector.
T
he 21st century has been a transformative one for
steam wands to allow for ease of movement. The machine
the coffee industry: perhaps no other F&B pillar has
also automatically measures the correct amount of coffee
seen such a dramatic shift in consumer expectation,
grind needed for each cup, minimising the risk of wastage
which has in turn driven rapid technological progress when
108
and human error.
it comes to equipment and machinery. According to the
Another area where efficiency is paramount is hygiene,
market research company Mordor Intelligence, the global
particularly in the post-pandemic era. Cleaning espresso
coffee machine market was valued at US$5.11 billion in 2020
machines can be a complex process and there is risk in the
– a figure projected to rise to US$6.36 billion by 2026 - with
potential for human error that could result in either hygiene
North America currently the largest market and Asia Pacific
lapses, or damage being caused to the equipment. It’s an
in particular driving growth.
issue the German automated coffee machine specialist WMF
The natural parameters of the hotel F&B model make the
is tackling via technology, with a WMF AutoClean solution
horeca sector a natural pioneer when it comes to pushing
that the company first added to its 5000 S+ model last year.
the boundaries of the coffee experience, with hotels and
Billed as the industry’s first fully automatic cleaning system,
cafés accounting for the majority of the global automatic
the AutoClean sanitises both the coffee and milk systems
coffee machine market space. Powered by fast-moving
in accordance with HACCP requirements, without external
developments in technology, engineering and design,
assistance from employees (save one intervention that can
manufacturers are stepping up to meet the needs of owners,
be performed when filling the milk container). An integrated
operators, employees and guests.
timer can be programmed to ensure that the machine starts-
Arguably the most essential currency in the modern-day
up and self-cleans by opening time, with additional options
F&B economy is time – and with coffee consumers demanding
available for programming the necessary after-work tasks.
seamless, efficient coffee experiences that don’t skimp on
With space increasingly at a premium in hotel F&B outlets,
quality, there is little margin for error. Heritage comapny
the need for compact and multi-functioning units is greater
Cimbali Group, which operates globally and manufactures an
than ever: particularly when it comes to full-scale, self-serve
average of 200 machines daily from its production centres
beverage stations in high-traffic areas. To this end, Franke
across Italy, has addressed the issue with its new LaCimbali
Coffee Systems recently launched a compact version of its
M200 traditional coffee machine, specifically developed to
Speciality Beverage Station SB1200, designed to fit into a
enhance barista performance. An illuminated work area
variety of point of sale environments. The fully-automatic
allows staff members to work quickly and accurately, and the
machine includes all the tech-forward features of the original
coffee dispenser units have been placed far enough from the
model (which recently won the Coffee Preparation Equipment
SPOTLIGHT
© Robilant Associati
109
© Ksawery Oroczko
110
SPOTLIGHT
Enhanced hygiene, smaller footprints and inclusive design are being championed by WMF (far left), Franke Coffee Systems (left) and Schaerer (bottom), while Fracino’s Romano model (right) is both attractive and material-conscious
category at the Melbourne International Coffee
the right tone in coffee outlets. Great coffee is
visual guidance through the processes, for a
Expo’s MICE Product Innovation Awards), but
now a guest expectation, and with that comes
frictionless experience.
comes with a smaller footprint, thanks in part
a need for equipment that is accessible, user-
Stylish equipment will always have the edge,
to a redesigned refrigerator area.
friendly and aesthetically pleasing – particularly
and in design-forward F&B spaces, the espresso
in self-serve spaces.
machine is as much a part of the interior as
Space-saving solutions are also a speciality of the US company Modbar, whose sleek
Swiss brand Schaerer has been making inroads
the furnishings. Whether the aesthetic takes the
designs provide a stylish alternative for
in this field, having recently given its signature
form of sleek, contemporary lines or vintage
spaces that don’t suit traditional countertop
Coffee Soul machine a sleek new makeover that
touches, the market has plenty to offer, and – as
machines. The brand’s minimalist espresso
includes the introduction of a ‘Select’ concept
with any hospitality hardware – sustainability is
taps and accessories are centred on the design
allowing owners to customise their interface to
key. British manufacturer Fracino understands
philosophy of clearing the countertop, opening
complement coffee outlets’ individual design.
the importance of attractive and material-
up the bar to give baristas the space to move
The machine comes in two different models
conscious design, having long eschewed
around and focus their energies on providing
– a Schaerer Coffee Soul 10, featuring a 10.4-
plastic trim or panel finishes for its machines,
top-notch customer service. Its Steam System,
inch display screen, and a Schaerer Coffee Soul
and implemented polished or coloured finish
which allows F&B owners to add steam taps
12 with video-capable 12.1-inch display. Both
stainless steel as standard across its product
to the workspace to boost throughput without
models feature an eye-catching Graphical
line. But Romano, its newest development,
the need to purchase additional machinery, is a
User Interface that displays large beverage
takes things up a notch. The machine features
particularly adaptable concept, and the refined
icons to make the process of selecting drinks
a steam valve and filter holder handles crafted
aesthetics of the brand’s product range mean
as visually easy and inclusive as possible for
from real wood, lending it a sophisticated and
that its models grace the F&B spaces of hotels
users. The processes and displays can also be
slightly retro edge that is further enhanced by
internationally, including The Standard London
adapted to work in different modes for guests,
LED edge lighting along the side panels in cool
and Four Seasons Hotel Budapest.
staff and frequent users – taking into account
white or blue. With both style and substance,
Because if there’s one thing that hasn’t
the specific requirements of the respective area
it’s a fitting metaphor for the coffee industry’s
changed, it’s that design remains key to striking
of application, and providing the user with
trajectory as a whole.
111
difference as an evidence Couzon’s designs are instantly recognisable by their unique shapes and luxury quality look and feel. For the must exigent tables around the world who love modern, exclusive designs, our tactile products perfectly combine form and function for Professionals. Our stylish collections not only enhance table settings but also create conversation pieces with their unique designs. www.couzon.com
benoit.desoutter@amefa.com
SPECIFIER
PETITS FOURS
Fine2Dine Curvo Inspired by the diversity of the human body – and the body-positive trend that has swept through society in recent years – Fine2Dine’s new Curvo collection aims to challenge pre-existing and established beauty standards. Rather than lean on fine lines and slender forms, the Curvo collection is characterised by bold, graceful shapes enhanced by a dark, earthy colour palette. Each highquality porcelain tableware piece comes finished with a reactive glaze that catches the light and means every product looks slightly different but fits seamlessly into the collection. Made from extremely strong and durable porcelain, Curvo items add a daring element to the dinner table. www.fine2dine.com
PETITS FOURS
1.
2.
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3.
1. Monno Modular
2. Bonna Spring
3. Zieher Table-Tree
Combining traditional ceramic production methods with intricate and precise detail, Monno’s Modular collection is the embodiment of the design edict ‘form follows function’. The brainchild of the brand’s Creative Director Billy Lloyd, Modular is an adaptable range of stackable bone china tableware spanning bowls, plates and more, that can be used in a variety of combinations to meet numerous and varied horeca requirements. Stylish and elegant, each item is crafted with finesse and developed with the understanding that a collection’s versatility at the table is a key element in achieveing the optimal contemporary dining experience. www.monno.com
Bonna’s Spring collection brings the freshness and energy of the spring season to professional table presentations. Bright and breezy, the range adds a touch of nature to the drinking and dining experience, breathing life into tablescapes through the use of specially-designed patterns and stylish ivory colourways. As with all Bonna products, each item in the collection meets the requirements of international standards, including edge breakage resistance, sudden heat change resistance, superior light transmittance, scratch resistance and stackability. Bonna Spring, with its calming textures, acts as a symbol of harmony with nature. www.bonna.com.tr
Zieher’s Table-Tree range offers the opportunity to present filigree delicacies in an elegant and surprising manner, even when working with minimal space. Featuring six organic-shaped leaves, the Flower Table-Tree can be used to showcase various desserts, mezzo courses or amuse bouches. Fruit, pastry or pralines can also be arranged on the leaves. The Pin Table-Tree model, meanwhile, is designed for serving finger food or small snacks on six skewers placed at different heights, with each delicacy held securely by an artfully-shaped spiral that prevents slippage. The 30cm high Table-Trees are completely handcrafted using stainless steel, and polished to a high gloss finish. Both models are suitable for use as part of the buffet, or as an addition to the larger examples of the brand’s Flower-Tree range. A stalwart of the hospitality design sector, Zieher’s extensive product portfolio spans buffetware, catering equipment, serveware, glassware, barware and decorative accessories, placing an emphasis on premium materials such as glass, stainless steel, slate and porcelain. www.zieher.com
PETITS FOURS
1.
2.
3.
116
4.
1. Dibbern Fine Bone China
2. Front of the House Artefact Indigo
3. Craster Link
4. Nude Glass Round Up
At the luxurious Four Seasons Hotel Madrid, the F&B outlets are supplied with customised fine bone china from Dibbern, which has been creating premium tableware pieces at the Dibbern porcelain manufactory located in the Bavarian town of Hohenberg for decades. At Dani, the hotel’s rooftop dining destination from acclaimed chef Dani García, elegant Dibbern pieces in white or Golden Lane colourways decorate the tables. Each of Dibbern’s Fine Bone China collections is manufactured to the highest quality standards using traditional, centuriesold craftsmanship methods and a contemporary design approach, resulting in a superior quality offering. www.dibbern.de
Designed in Miami, Front of the House’s Artefact Indigo collection beautifully combines the organic, hand-thrown feel of one-of-a-kind pottery with the strength and durability of commercial-grade porcelain. This collection combines the art of slow kiln firing with the beauty of reactive porcelain glazes, resulting in a varied colour spectrum that means no two pieces bear exactly the same finish. Indigo’s blue-hued finish warmly complements the range’s raw corners and organic details, and help it to seamlessly merge with any collection. Front of the House has been dedicated to transforming tabletops for two decades, in more than 80 countries. www.frontofthehouse.com
The new Link table from Craster is a beguilingly sleek and mutable events table. Created to support full F&B services, seated presentations or hospitality lingering points, the range has been designed to complement the brand’s Line system for a seamless aesthetic across and between spaces. Link features a slender, round leg profile with a central folding mechanism for easy storage, and an intuitive setup that offers three height different options. The system is available in a range of sizes with hygiene-conscious HPL or toughened glass tops, offering flexible, wipe-clean solutions that make it a stylish and practical choice for events spaces. www.craster.com
The Nude Round Up collection is characterised by artfully-rounded silhouettes, enhanced by sweeping vertical lines that create texture and depth. The series encompasses red, white and sparkling wine glasses – all handcrafted from lead-free crystal and designed to enhance taste and flavour. The flute glass features a gently curved shape, tapered rim, long, slender stem, and eye-catching vertical pattern, while the coupe glass is also decorated with sweeping vertical lines. The simple yet sizeable silhouette of the white wine glass allows wine to breathe, and the red wine glass is shaped to retain the drink’s aromas and flavours. www.nudeglass.com
PETITS FOURS
1.
3.
2.
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1. Couzon Neuvième Art
2. LSA International Cloche
3. Goodfellow & Goodfellow Narumi Aso and Ena Rock Plate
Over more than 75 years, Couzon has developed a reputation for being a French leader in cutlery and tableware. From the traditionally elegant to the daringly modern, the brand offers a wide-ranging choice of design-forward cutlery and table accessories. Developed in partnership with the French chef behind double-Michelin starred restaurant Le Neuvième Art’ in Lyon, France, the Neuvième Art collection focuses on comfort of use and purity of design. An embossed stamp on the tip of the handle highlights the pattern’s individual personality, while the knife features a unique shape that allows it to be balanced on certain objects. www.couzon.com
Luxury glassware brand LSA International is focusing on bringing people together, with Spring/Summer collections centred on the themes of connection and shared moments. Its three-piece Cloche line is particularly stylish: inspired by the contours of tagine dishes, the collection of glass domes has been mouthblown into distinctly different shapes – one curved, one bell-shaped and one conical. The long, tapered handles create seamless and contemporary silhouettes. Each dome sits on a base of natural oak that has been sourced from sustainably managed European forests, before being sanded by hand to offer a finish that is soft and smooth. www.lsa-international.com
Forming part of Goodfellow & Goodfellow’s innovative portfolio of stylish tableware for chefs, the Aso and Ena Rock Plates by Narumi are elegant and contemporary plinth and pillow style plates. Inspired by the natural rocks and pebbles found in Zen gardens, the plates come in two different finishes: a delicate textured, matte white with brown speckles and a metallic two-tone rust brown. The smaller 10cm plates are the ideal size for showcasing amuse bouches and hors d’oeuvres served up as part of tasting menus, with the raised plinth working beautifully in combination with the larger pillow plate when used in a presentation arrangement, or singularly as part of a section of smaller dishes. The larger 21cm plate, meanwhile, can easily be used to present starters or desserts. Founded by UK-based husband-and-wife Paul and Valda Goodfellow, the brand specialises in providing design-focused solutions for hotels, restaurants and contract caterers. www.goodf.co.uk
Intelligent Design Exceptional Experiences
FEATURED: LINK TABLE IN GLASS North Building Stand 7257
Shot in Battersea, London, additional furnishings kindly provided by Hay Design, Silvera Official, Modern Art Hire and Hasa Architects Visit us at Craster.com
PETITS FOURS
1.
2.
120
3.
1. Stölzle Lausitz Swing and Twist
2. MyGlassStudio Bento Dinner Plates
3. Schönwald Vibes
Inspired by the exuberance and glamour of the 1920s, German glass manufacturer Stölzle Lausitz’s new release Swing and Twist provides a modern interpretation of the classic champagne saucer. Featuring a distinct cubic shape, the goblet gently merges with the high, filigree-pulled stem, contrasting charmingly with the voluminous opulence of the bowls. The result is that both the large Swing and the smaller Twist glass exude elegance. Made from lead-free crystal glass, the champagne saucers feature a gracefully thin rim, and are versatile enough to be used for drinking champagne, sparkling wine or showstopping cocktails. www.stoelzle-lausitz.com
With the Bento Dinner Plate set, MyGlassStudio has reimagined the dinner table. This collection of covered dinner plates – which spans soup bowls, appetiser and main course plates – brings together the concepts of both the Asian bento box and the European fine-dining dinner set. Designed for professional use, the collection is oven and dishwasher safe, leak-proof, chlorine bleach resistant and highly durable. Playful and versatile, it can be used to service hotel outlets from in-room dining and meetings to restaurants, bar food, lobby lounges, high tea, and more. Bento dinner plates come in 11 colours, meaning there is sure to be a shade for every interior. www.myglassstudio.com
Schönwald’s tableware pieces are characterised by a simple, elegant design language and stylistic understatement. Its pieces can be used flexibly to adapt to changing themes at the table, making them just as suitable for classic menu compositions as for casual modern dining formats. Manufacturers at the brand’s in-house creative centre translate international food trends into sleek new products crafted from high-quality hard porcelain and filigree noble china. The brand’s Vibes collection embodies this philosophy, bringing a vibrancy to table settings. The radial design of the relief captures the light, highlighting the warm white hues of the china and playing with long, delicate shapes to draw the eye to what really matters: the presentation of the food. Creating a balance between traditional and modern, the pieces from the Vibes collection have been designed to fit into multiple F&B concepts. www.schoenwald.com
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D I S C O V E R
M O R E
PETITS FOURS
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2.
122
3.
1. Hoshizaki America Specialty Ice Machines
2. John Jenkins Atlantic
3. Chef & Sommelier Séquence
Bartenders know that ice is an essential part of a successful cocktail programme: being equipped with the right ice options is just as important as having the right spirits, garnishes and mixers. Hoshizaki speciality ice provides optimal chilling with minimal dilution, and its selection of award-winning specialty ice machines offers options for both undercounter or back-of-house placement. The undercounter machines have a small footprint, making them easy to incorporate into whatever space works best for operation. They make ice more efficiently than ice moulds and offer a cost effective alternative to purchasing vendor-made or third-party ice. www.hoshizakiamerica.com
John Jenkins specialises in supplying the hospitality industry with handmade crystal and glass for the table and bar. Founded in London in 1901, the brand’s products can be found in luxury hotels and restaurants around the UK, as well as internationally in cities across Asia, the Middle East and the Americas. Responding to a demand for more specialised glasses, the group’s William Yeoward Crystal brand has supplied hotel chains such as Rosewood, Mandarin Oriental and Four Seasons. Collections such as Atlantic (pictured) and Bella have proven to be particularly popular in high-end dining environments. www.johnjenkins.co.uk
The Séquence collection by Chef & Sommelier is remarkable for its balance. The classic tulip-shaped bowl has been given a modern makeover with this generous yet slender design: well-proportioned and seamless, the leg is just the right length, making it a practical choice for restaurants as well as for wine bars and banqueting. The complete collection facilitates the optimal tasting experience for all wines, beers and liquors. Each Séquence item is made with Chef & Sommelier’s highperformance, lead-free crystal glass material, Krysta – a material known for its lasting brilliance and shock resistance, as well as its impressive transparency. Chef & Sommelier’s luxurious Krysta and fine porcelain product lines incorporate the expertise of wine tasting with the elegance and the strength of innovative materials. Its ranges can meet the latest fast-moving culinary trends, from mini portions to wine by the glass and more. www.chefsommelier.com
TOUCHED BY 20 PAIRS OF HANDS
Discover more at denbypottery.com/hospitality For further details please contact: sales.admindept@denby.co.uk Tel: 01773 740700
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PETITS FOURS
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1. Rona Linea Umana
2. Mogogo Modular – Pro Bar
3. Absolute Lifestyle Urban Collection
4. Steelite International Forager by Robert Gordon
Representing 125 years of glassmaking skill, leading Slovakian glass manufacturer Rona’s collaboration with the award-winning Italian sommelier Maurizio Dante Fillipi has resulted in a collection that ticks all the boxes when it comes to balancing functionality and sophisticated elegance. Fabricated using the brand’s pulled-stem technology, the ultra-light pieces feature a distinctive flared edge and smooth interior, which has been designed specifically to encourage the release of the drink’s aromas. The Linea range encompasses four wine glasses and two water glasses, each featurung the same soft and generous lines. www.rona.glass
Mogogo’s flagship collection, the Modular System, allows users to employ the same components in a combination of ways, in order to create different product configurations. The Modular Banquet Stations line is composed of the brand’s Classic and Creative range, alongside a large variety of complementary accessories. As with all of Mogogo’s banquet stations, the Pro Bar station has been meticulously designed to strike the right tone between high functionality, durability, and mobility. It features a stainless-steel working surface, an ice bin and a speed-rail, and represents a natural symbiosis between high design standards and practical F&B solutions. www.mogogo-buffet.com
Taking its cue from the fashion world, where accessories are designed to complement garments, Absolute Lifestyle’s accessories aim to complete and enhance a room’s interiors while making a statement. The brand’s products are designed to accentuate brand essence and experience, and with a focus on eye-catching colour palettes and bold patterns, the range shines a spotlight on form, function and aesthetics. Calibrating and curating the right pieces and understanding the dynamic of how choices best interact with the interiors and guests using the space is a subtle art, and one that Absolute Lifestyle has been mastering for several years. www.alhkg.com
Forager by Robert Gordon is designed with a reactive glaze that free-flows over each shape, resulting in a unique finish that differs slightly between every piece. Featuring an unglazed base, the collection uses exposed stoneware to highlight the rich appeal of raw materials that have been handcrafted into organic-feeling objects. The collection was created by the designer Robert ‘Andy’ Gordon, who compares the line’s signature tray design to “tree bark once used to gather things such as forage seeds, berries, and roots from the forest”. These enduring and functional shapes are finished with a stamp of Andy’s handwritten signature. www.steelite.com
IN A CLASS OF THEIR OWN
THE No1 CHOICE FOR BARISTAS
ROMANO Style and Quality Our strikingly stylish Romano – the fusion of contemporary design and technology. Featuring a full length Touch Screen Selection Panel and LED Display, it’s stunning design is enhanced with Real Wood Handles, LED Edge Illumination and Barista Lighting in the coffee preparation zone. Available in 2 or 3 group versions, the Romano boasts all the power, technical qualities and reliability synonymous with Fracino’s equipment range
R
W / www.fracino.com E / sales@fracino.com T / +44 (0)121 328 5757
PETITS FOURS
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126
3.
1. Franke Coffee Systems Franke Digital Services
2. Julius Meinl Coffee 1862 Vienna
3. Revol Yli
Franke Touchless Ordering is the safe way to order and enjoy coffee, allowing users to select drinks using their personal smart devices, rather than needing to use the buttons on the coffee machine’s touchscreen. An extension of Franke’s IoT telemetry solutions, Franke Digital Services, it uses a QR code, displayed on the coffee machine screen, that immediately and conveniently shares the coffee menu directly to customers’ personal smart devices. And, because no app or registration is required, customers can trust that their personal data stays safe too. Franke’s Touchless Ordering solution complies with strict data protection laws. www.franke.com
Some 160 years after it first entered the coffee scene and began to shape today’s modern coffeehouse culture, Julius Meinl is relaunching its premium coffee blend 1862 Vienna to the horeca sector. The move reflects the brand’s strong and storied heritage when it comes to leading the way for the future of the coffee industry. The 1862 100% Arabica blend has already achieved a three-star Superior Taste Award from the International Taste Institute in Brussels, and each coffee is presented in a cup designed by Matteo Thun, adding a dash of luxury to the serving experience and giving outlets the opportunity to score top marks for their coffee presentation. www.juliusmeinl.com
Organic, primitive and sensual, the Yli collection designed by Ferréol Babin for Revol has broken free of tableware norms to question the relationship between people and material. In doing so, the product line fully awakens the senses. The range’s furrows, grooves and other subtly rough design details are testimony to the material’s nature – one that is very much alive. These pieces require an artisan’s skill and a patient, meticulous working process. In its black, unglazed version, Yli almost resembles forged iron, inviting diners to look beyond appearances and question the origins of items – just as the designer intended. Its vocation is to offer new and more respectful perspectives on dishes: sculptural yet minimal in both shape and finish, it takes a step back to allow the chef – and the ingredients – to fully express themselves. Revol, a ninth-generation family business is based in the South of France, has been a leading manufacturer of professional kitchenware, tabletop and buffetware solutions since 1768. www.revol1768.com
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ADVERTISING INDEX ISSUE 27
Absolute Lifestyle
117
Mogogo
Aerts
20
Monkey 47
Amefa
112
Monno Design
027
Arc
85
MyGlassStudio
083
BHS
071
Nude
029
Nyetimber
097
Orderlina
127
Bonna Castel Frères
014-015 099
012-013 006-007
Craster
119
Orrefors Kosta Boda
131
Denby
123
Penfolds
103
Dibbern
024
Prosecco DOC
105
Fracino
125
Revol
043
Franke
016-017
Ron Colon Salvadoreno
100
Frenchefs
121
Rona
047
Front of the House
132
Schaerer
077
018-019
Steelite
049
Gruppo Cimbali
062
Steelite
008-009
Hoshizaki
002
Stolzle
051
To The Table Europe
087
G&G Goodfellow
John Jenkins
115
Julius Meinl
057
To The Table MEA
128
La Marzocco Modbar
066
Tom Gast
023
LSA International
037
WMF Professional
005
Martin Miller’s Gin
095
Zieher
010-011
129
WASHING-UP
All Aboard
Legendary champagne house Veuve Clicquot celebrates a historic journey with a vintageinspired Italian pop-up.
130
All roads lead to Rome according to the old
blankets were dotted over the terrace – just the
adage, and back in 1772 it was the house of
ticket for a high-altitude culinary journey with
Veuve Clicquot making the journey to the Italian
a side order of people-watching, champagne-
capital. The route from the champagne capital of
sipping and panoramic views.
Reims would have taken the now historic French
The cuisine also drew inspiration from the
brand through the splendour of the Alps – so
mountains, with Hotel Eden’s Executive Chef
to mark the 250th anniversary of its inaugural
Fabio Ciervo curating a menu of traditional,
Roman voyage, the maison recently installed an
hearty dishes with classic alpine flavours. The
alpine inspired F&B pop-up at Hotel Eden, the
experience began with Valdostana fondue and
Dorchester Collection property located a short
potatoes, followed by a first course of canederli
stroll from the legendary sights of the city.
dumplings served with spruce-flavoured
For the month of March, the hotel’s rooftop
consommé. Wild boar stew, polenta taragna,
terrace, Il Giardino Ristorante, played host to
mixed mushrooms and black truffle formed the
two private Veuve Clicquot cabins inspired by
main course, while Annurca apple and aged-rum
the aesthetic of vintage train carriages, painted
strudel ended the meal on a sweet note.
in midnight blue with accents of the brand’s
The glamorous pop-up is likely to be the first
signature mustard yellow hue. In addition to
of many festivities for Veuve Clicquot’s birthday
the four-seater cabins, outdoor armchairs and
year, so here’s to letting off more steam in 2022.
Street Designed in Sweden and inspired by the Streets of New York
NYC Showroom, 41 Madison Ave. | (800)-351-9842 | info@orrefors.us | www.orrefors.us
67661-011 Orrefors - Ads - Supper Magazine - Street - 236x275mm.indd 1
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YEAR ANNIVERSARY