The visionary Spanish chef behind StreetXO at One&Only One Za’abeel, Dabiz Muñoz shares his culinary inspirations and food memories.
Back to the Future
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Celebrated Catalonian chef Joan Roca reminisces about his decade-spanning career and looks ahead to a slew of new ventures.
North Star
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A search for identity has defined Adam Reid’s career, and with his latest challenge, the distinctly northern rhythm that characterises his dishes finds its full expression.
A Delicate Balance
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Daniel Moran considers how Como Hotels & Resorts develops its culinary programme to serve the best of both.
DINING
Meals on Wheels
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As guests continue to seek memorable dining experiences, London’s luxury hotels embrace the theatre of the tableside trolley.
SIPPING
Message in a Bottle
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Bringing natural effervescence to the role of Head Sommelier at One&Only Cape Town, Luvo Ntezo muses about the unparalleled wonders of wine.
Tequila Takeover
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ENTRÉE
Space to Grow
There was a time when the bright lights of the city were the ultimate draw for hospitality hopefuls, whether it be first-time hoteliers seeking to build an empire or chefs and restaurateurs chasing culinary fame and fortune. In much the same sentiment as the classic song lyrics, the long-held belief has been that if you can make it in notoriously difficult markets such as New York, London, Paris and Singapore, you can make it anywhere; for that reason, F&B ventures typically make their debut in city centre locations – where there’s guaranteed demand, high footfall and a varied mix of tastes and preferences.
However, this isn’t necessarily the case anymore. Though there’s still appeal to having a name in lights, the reality of running a restaurant in any of the world’s top cities is tough, as evidenced by the number of closures citing rising costs as a key contributor to their demise. As a result, hospitality professionals have been turning their backs on the metropolises in favour of smaller cities and suburban locations, where rents are lower and there’s less competition.
This has come to the fore in this year’s AHEAD Americas awards, with entries in the F&B categories coming from less typical destinations such as Savannah, Kentucky and Portland. And it has also been acknowledged by the people and projects featured in this issue of Supper. Real estate developer Method Co, for example, has ventured to an Atlanta neighbourhood for its latest property, opting to bring its varied culinary concepts to an underserved market rather than open in the more densely-populated Downtown area. The F&B-driven hotel and social club has quickly become a new meeting place for locals, thus driving better returns than perhaps if it were amongst a multitude of venues in a city centre location.
As well as there being less competition for business, there’s less competition for staff too. Also featured in this issue, the Culinary Director for Como Hotels & Resorts reveals that employee recruitment and retention is most challenging at its city centre properties, where there’s greater reliance on part-time temps.
Recent years have undoubtedly seen a rise in dining destinations in rural locations, which come with the added benefit of space; it could be gardens for growing herbs and vegetables to be served in the restaurant, or farmland for raising rare breed beef cattle. Or as in the case of Joan Roca, who speaks to Supper about his new restaurant-with-rooms in the mountains outside Girona, the extra square-footage is being utilised in a range of innovative ways that contribute to the growth of the business and its people. There’s a vast wine cellar holding 80,000 bottles that will eventually become a storage hub for all Roca restaurants, and an exhibition gallery that tells the Roca family story – components that just wouldn’t have been possible in the heart of the city. More importantly, there’s space for an academy to train upcoming talent, as well as an onsite distillery, enabling the Roca brothers to experiment with liquid cuisine and produce their own spirits to be sold at retail. As Joan puts it, there’s space to continue the development of the Roca story; space to grow.
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China’s colossal culinary landscape is as boundless as its geography, with every jagged mountain and gently undulating sand dune offering inspiration for a different take on a particular dish. Renowned documentary director Chen Xiaoqing has made it his life’s work to explore the correlation between these two themes, and now he’s teamed up with Marriott International in the creation of Taste of Wonders, Flavors of North and South, a short film that explores the vibrant characters and culture behind Chinese cuisine.
The documentary, which delves into the many-layered meaning of the Chinese word, Xian – which can mean both ‘fresh ingredients’ and ‘delicate flavour’ – forms an integral pillar
campaign catering directly to its customers. “I am thrilled to once again team up with director Chen Xiaoqing to take food enthusiasts on a journey through the vast and diverse landscape of China,” says Michael Malik, Chief Operations Officer, Greater China at Marriott International. “With this campaign, we will spotlight our Chinese restaurants and talented chefs to offer guests multi-faceted dining experiences that allow them to connect with one another.”
The campaign also spotlights China’s gastronomic evolution, with growing emphasis on seasonality and quality, a shift that’s spearheaded by an expanding middle class population. This trend and more were contemplated by China’s leading F&B critics at the campaign launch,
Culinary Journeys
Marriott International combines China’s soaring domestic travel rates with the country’s rich culinary history in its latest marketing campaign.
of Marriott’s wider ‘Taste of Wonders’ F&B campaign, in which more than 300 restaurants across Greater China are set to create special menus based on themes such as seasonal cuisine, wine and tea pairings and home-style dishes. Each interpretation will then serve as an invitation to guests to embark on a cross-country voyage of culinary discovery.
The campaign comes at a time when rates of domestic travel within China are soaring. In the second quarter of 2024, approximately 1.3 billion domestic tourist trips were made, up 140 million from the same period in 2023 – a growth of almost 12%, according to Statista. Meanwhile, the country’s Transport Ministry reported staggering figures over a five-day holiday period this May, including 92 million rail trips; almost 10 million flights; and 1.25 billion highway journeys. International arrivals have fallen since the pandemic, but domestically, the industry has never been stronger.
Using that intel, Marriott has created a topical
where a panel of industry insiders unpacked the perspectives shaping the current industry landscape and shed light on the group’s future localisation strategy for catering.
Those changes are still in flux, but one certainty is the close connection between food and emotion, the intricacies of which Chen Xiaoqing uncovers in Taste of Wonders, Flavors of North and South. “Our ancestors took inspiration for the word Xian from the harvests of the land, lakes and seas,” he says. “This single word represents not only a rich history, but also a philosophy about the cyclical rhythm of nature’s four seasons and their association with people’s longing for home.” Enjoying a steaming hot, lovingly prepared plate is a visceral experience that has the power to conjure complex memories and emotions. Brands do well to take note.
B for Brilliant
Mauro Colagreco continues to tear up culinary traditions, this time by securing a distinguished B Corp certification for his restaurant, Mirazur – the first three-Michelin-stared venue in the world to achieve the accolade. Awarded after an intensive 18-month process, the highly lauded label is testament to the Argentinian chef’s rigorous, lifelong approach to social and environmental performance. It has added to Mirazur’s already bulging trophy cabinet, which includes one of the World’s Best Restaurants (2019), the very first Zero-Plastic certification (2020), a Michelin Green Star (2020) and a nod for Mauro himself, who was named the first UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador for Biodiversity. Colagreco’s respect for people and planet was instilled at a young age, and as his career has flourished, he’s become the figurehead for the circular gastronomy concept. Respectful and visionary, it encompasses a series of actions spanning produce, recycling, carbon footprint
and more, that prioritise our connection with nature and commit to giving back to society. The goal is evolution of our relationship with cuisine and the safeguarding of the world’s resources and biodiversity for future generations. The demanding B Corp certification is the latest vital step on that journey. “We’re committed to supporting local economies and promoting education,” Colagreco says. “We also aim to improve the health and wellbeing of our community, adopt sustainable practices, and take our responsibility to protect seriously.”
The B Corp movement measures these factors and more, and encourages continuous improvement, with reassessment every three years to guarantee ever-higher standards. For a community determined to contribute to the ecological and social transition of today’s economic systems, it’s all par for the course. “By choosing what we eat, we choose the world we want to live in,” the inspirational chef concludes.
Life Tastes Sweet
Stanley Tucci is a man of many talents. Oscar-nominated, Emmy-award winning actor, director and producer; high-achieving scribe; deft hand with a cocktail shaker. In his latest venture, he combines all of the above, inviting readers on a 12-month journey through a cherry-picked collection of mealbased memories as he trots around the globe. ‘What I Ate In One Year’ is a personal, diarised ode to the profound role that food plays in our lives. Unfolding across restaurants, kitchens, film sets and press junkets, alongside friends, family and strangers, Tucci dissects the sometimes mouthwatering, sometimes inedible plates in front of him as a means of reflecting on life and our intimate evolutions as the seconds tick past. Equal parts poignant, funny and heartfelt, expect anecdotes about duck a l’orange eaten with fellow actors and cooked by singing Carmelite nuns, steaks barbequed at gatherings with friends, and meatballs made by his mother and son, then shared at the dining table with three generations of his family. An assortment of musings about the way meals add shape and emotional depth to our everyday existence, it’s a memoir that marks and mourns the passing of time.
Nostalgia is a trend that shows no signs of abating and the latest venture from The Wigmore in London taps directly into the theme. The modern British pub, located within The Langham and overseen by Michel Roux, has launched its Toastie Takeover series for a second year due to popular demand, giving the school lunchtime favourite a luxury upgrade courtesy of a slew of celebrated chefs. The initiative is a tribute to the ultimate, soul-soothing comfort food, while also paying homage to the pub’s famous (and foot-long!) XXL Stovetop Three-Cheese & Mustard Toastie, a menu must-have that’s been beloved by regulars for years.
José Pizarro, owner of the eponymous Spanish restaurants and newly opened Lolo, kicked things off with a toastie inspired by his Spanish heritage, combining manchego cheese, jamón ibérico and tomato jam. Meanwhile, Mexican chef Adriana Cavita has adapted a popular taco recipe using slow smoked beef shin marinated in a guajillo adobo sauce and served with raclette cheese. Indian-born restaurateur Asma Khan, chef and owner of Darjeeling Express, rounds off the series with a takeover just in time for Diwali. The Karai Paneer Toastie is prepared on Ancient Bread, spread with butter and mustard, stuffed with the tasty karai paneer filling and presented with a chutney and chopped coriander garnish.
What’s more, £1 from each toastie sold is being donated to The Burnt Chef Project, a non-profit that provides support and education on mental health issues to those working in the hospitality industry.
Life and Lim
Afternoon tea just got an artistic makeover at Bvlgari Hotel London, thanks to a new collaboration with emerging sculptural artist, Hannah Lim. At the heart of the project from the London-based, British-Singaporean designer is a reimagining of the classic tea stand, transforming it into an intricate work of art that pays homage to Lim’s heritage.
Drawing from 18th-century Chinoiserie, the designs blend Asian motifs including flowers, plants and mythical creatures, with vibrant colours and fluid forms. In another twist, the hotel façade has also been transformed by Lim’s signature style, turning the building itself into a sculptural experience. “The pieces are a mix between ornamental, creaturely, animistic and intricate - inspired by my research, imagery and objects that have become symbols of my heritage,” Lim explains. “The tea stands are an opportunity to recreate a meeting of different cultures.”
Executive Pastry Chef-in-Residence Salvatore Mungiovino has curated an afternoon tea menu that complements Lim’s beautiful designs. Expect playful bites like La Fiamma, an indulgent cocoa sponge with jasmine tea, ganache and a hint of grapefruit, or La Tigre, where caramel sponge and black sesame cream are married with orange jam and dark chocolate. This joyful menu is served in The Bvlgari Lounge, offering elegant all-day dining in the comfort and glamour of an Italian-style living room with a cosy fireplace for cooler days.
CHEF’S TABLE
Dabiz Muñoz
The visionary Spanish chef behind StreetXO at One&Only One Za’abeel shares his culinary inspirations and cherished food memories.
When did you first fall in love with cooking?
From a very young age – my earliest memories as a child revolve around cooking.
What’s your favourite hotel restaurant?
Plénitude at Cheval Blanc in Paris. It’s the perfect balance between cuisine and hospitality.
Which chefs have inspired you?
Abraham García of Viridiana in Madrid. He’s considered one of the pioneers of fusion cuisine and his creativity is a source of great inspiration.
How often do you dine out?
Once a week and every day during vacations. Sometimes I try two or three restaurants on the same day!
Which new restaurant are you eager to try out?
I’m very eager to visit Barro in Ávila, Spain, which opened earlier this year. Led by Carlos Casillas, it’s a Michelin Guide restaurant that focuses on ecologically-minded ingredients, adopting a zero-waste philosophy while also supporting local and small-scale producers.
Tell us about your most memorable meal.
The most memorable meal would be the one I had in Mugaritz, a well-known restaurant in the Basque Country, Spain. It was playful, avantgarde and highly innovative.
What’s your favourite dish, and who cooks it? Papaya shrimp and nutmeg flower curry by David Thompson.
And your favourite drink to wash that down?
A glass of champagne – Jacques Selosse Substance Blanc de Blancs.
It’s Sunday evening at home: who’s cooking and what’s on the menu?
What’s your go-to cooking soundtrack? Anohni and the Johnsons.
Which cookbooks can we find on your shelf?
A wide variety in all languages, editions, versions and cultures, by many chefs and writers. It’s an obsession of mine.
Restaurant dining or room service?
Restaurant dining.
Are you an easygoing or a demanding restaurant customer?
Easygoing.
Sweet or savoury?
Savoury.
Healthy dishes or full-fat indulgence?
Full-fat indulgence.
Which city is food heaven for you?
Singapore, Bangkok, Tokyo, Mexico City and Madrid.
NOTABLE RESTAURANTS
DiverXO, NH Eurobuilding Madrid; StreetXO, Madrid; StreetXO, One&Only One Za’abeel Dubai; RavioXO, Madrid www.diverxo.com
So far, 2024 has been a big year for Joan Roca, the eldest of the brothers behind the world-famous three-Michelin-starred El Celler de Can Roca. The unstoppable trio has already launched Esperit Roca – a restaurant-with-rooms concept that seeks to reinterpret the iconic dishes of their world famous flagship in an impressive location. Then came Vii, a wine bar in the centre of Girona. And still to come later this year is TimeSpirit at The Macallan distillery in Scotland, marking their first venture outside of Spain. All this in the same year that Joan celebrated his sixth decade.
“Even though I’ve turned 60, I’m still so excited to work with my brothers and to continue cooking,” says Joan. “The three of us have a very special relationship and I feel that we still gain so much energy from working together. We are excited to open more restaurants and to continue doing what we love. I have no plans to stop!”
The brothers now preside over a mini empire in Girona, but it’s El Celler de Can Roca that made them global superstars. Since opening in 1986, the restaurant has been showered with awards, winning three Michelin stars and twice named number one on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list – it now claims hall of fame status alongside previous winners like Noma and The Fat Duck. And while the cuisine has always been rooted in humble Catalan traditions, it’s the cutting-edge creativity and technical wizardry that it’s best known for – though there are multiple strands to the restaurant’s success formula, as Joan explains. “In the beginning, I was interested in innovations like cooking at low temperatures,” he says. “Later, I became obsessed with produce and having high quality ingredients that were seasonal and locally sourced. And today, we are very focused on the team, making sure they’re content and well taken care of. So now, all three stages of our past have combined to create what we are today.”
Seasonality
and quality produce are at the
This multi-phase journey is celebrated at Esperit Roca, the new 15-bedroom hotel, restaurant, distillery and gallery located in an old 19th-century fortress atop the picturesque Saint Julia Mountain high above Girona. An exhibition space displays artefacts that regale the Roca family story to date, while the essence of El Celler de Can Roca can be seen and tasted on Esperit Roca’s menu, which reimagines classic dishes from the restaurant’s past.
“El Celler has been open for 38 years, so we had a lot of dishes to choose from when creating the menu,” Joan explains. “Seasonality and quality produce are, of course, always at the forefront, but we also wanted a chronology that showcases each stage and decade of El Celler. So Esperit Roca is a means of understanding and acknowledging our history, and the dishes and concepts that have brought us to where we are now.”
Joan laughs when asked to pick a favourite dish from the past four decades – perhaps that question is firmly embedded in the ‘name your favourite child’ territory! Gamely, however, he suggests the apple and foie timbale, a steamed parcel of foie gras, duck, vanilla oil and caramelised apple, which takes pride of place on Esperit Roca’s opening menu. “It’s one of my first dishes and one of our most successful to date, so it’s a nice choice,” he adds.
Other favourites on the primary greatest hits menu (entitled 6/2 because it comprises six savoury dishes and two desserts) include All The Prawn, a sensational dish of red prawn marinated in seaweed vinegar, and Turbot Trilogy, featuring grilled turbot fin, loin and carpaccio, seasoned with Kalamata oil and served with semi-dried tomatoes.
The menu is notable for having only one meat dish, an intentional decision on Joan’s part, who employs the same ethos across all the group’s
“We wanted to create a chronology that showcases each stage and decade of El Celler, so Esperit Roca is a means of understanding and acknowledging our history, and the dishes and concepts that have brought us to where we are now.”
encompassing the castle, plus there’s an exhibition and the wine cellar. All this makes it very special.” In fact, guests pass through the wine cellar on the way to the dining room. A vast underground bunker lined with row upon row of racks, it will eventually hold 80,000 bottles, becoming the central storage hub for all the Roca restaurants.
Esperit Roca is the brothers’ second hotel, having opened Hotel Casa Cacao in central Girona in 2020. Although they weren’t especially looking to open another, the opportunity came to take over the St Julia fortress, which had been converted into the Sant Metges hotel in 2018, only to close during the pandemic. “As with El Celler, Hotel Casa Cacao is nearly always full, so this was a great opportunity for us to be able to host more guests,” notes Joan.
restaurants. “Most of our dishes are made from vegetables, with just small elements of fish or meat on offer,” he says. “It’s all part of our effort to be more sustainable and conscious of the impact we have on the world.” Meanwhile, sweet-toothed fans can opt for the 2/6 menu, which features two savoury dishes followed by six desserts. “That was Jordi’s idea,” laughs Joan. “He is an exceptional pastry chef so his desserts are spectacular – very light, very low on sugar. You can eat six and still survive!”
Although Esperit Roca is inspired by its predecessor, the dining experience remains unique. “The biggest difference is the setting,” Joan explains. “There are incredible views
Much of the hard work was already done too. The old hotel structure, which features a stunning curved concrete building sunk into the old fortress, rusted Corten steel roofing, and an L-shaped outdoor swimming pool, was ready to go. The interiors, which had previously been themed around precious gems and stones, needed more work, however: “We remodelled a few spaces, repainted and replaced the furniture, lighting and artworks to bring our personality to the property.”
The distillery is the final pillar of Esperit Roca’s appeal. Products include gin infused with rock tea, a botanical that grows in the rocky landscape around Girona and a liqueur made from Carob tree pods. “They represent the essence of the landscape,” Joan says. “We’ve been experimenting a lot over many years, and now, we can finally sell our first products in the market.”
This close connection to the surroundings has been a key theme throughout the Roca brothers’ careers, and perhaps part of the reason that,
forefront of the Roca approach, with dishes at the newly opened Esperit Roca a reimagination of classic dishes from El Celler de Can Roca
“The three of us have a very special relationship and I feel that we still gain so much energy from working together. I have no plans to stop!”
despite their international fame, they have never ventured far from home – their various businesses are all in and around Girona, where they grew up and still live. Indeed, multiple offers to open international restaurants have been received over the years, but Joan and his brothers have always turned them down. “We decided to stay here because our history is here, and a sense of place is the background to everything we do. It makes sense for us to live and work here, to create our own ecosystems not only between our own businesses but with all the other partners and producers we work with. That way we can ensure the quality of everything is 100% how we want it to be.”
Which of course begs the question, why choose a whisky distillery in the Scottish Highlands as your first international foray? Joan is tight-lipped on TimeSpirit’s specific menu details, but the project seems to be driven by a genuine passion for Scotland and a mutual
respect between Macallan and the brothers. “We have worked with Macallan and been visiting Scotland for 12 years now, so this is a plan that’s been a decade in the making. Macallan is a very professional company, and the location is just stunning. Plus Scottish produce is among the best in the world.”
So, if there’s no sign slowing down anytime soon, what could be next on the horizon? “Well, we still have so much to do on our current projects,” Joan concludes. “We still need to develop part two of our exhibition, where we can thank all the people that have been a part of our story. And there is another idea that each brother will have his own room to do what he likes with! After that, who knows? I want to keep working, keep leading and keep passing on our passion to our team and our guests team. We are thrilled to also have my son and nephew in the kitchen now too. This is very important to us – for our future, and for our legacy.”
North Star
A search for identity has defined the career of Adam Reid, and with his latest challenge, the distinctly northern rhythm that characterises his dishes finds its full expression.
Like most kids, when Adam Reid got home from school, he planted himself in front of the TV with a snack. Unlike most kids however, he settled in for a session of Ready, Steady, Cook! and tucked into a nutritious bowl of salad, albeit one that was drenched in dressing. “I absolutely smothered it in salt and pepper and about half a bottle of salad cream,” he laughs. “So it wasn’t as healthy as it sounds!”
A lifetime later, and we’re at the showcase for Aether, the new private terminal at Manchester Airport, where Reid is now responsible for feeding hopefully less weary travellers. Dinner includes a choice of three mains, each served with creamy mash and drum roll… salad dressed in homemade salad cream. It’s an apt encapsulation of Reid’s down-toearth approach to cooking: an upscaling of heritage dishes that’s entwined with his Mancunian roots, something he describes as modern British with a northern accent. He’s spent his entire career perfecting it.
“As a chef, I think you have to tap into something,” he explains. “And that’s either a passion that you have, or it’s just who and what you are. The challenge is how to bring some personality to what I do; what’s the message?”
Anyone familiar with his work could probably answer that in a heartbeat, especially if they’ve eaten at The French, where Reid has been behind the stoves since 2013, initially under the guidance of Simon Rogan, and then flying solo when he became Chef Patron in 2016, eventually relaunching the restaurant as Adam Reid at The French. His first move was to begin dismantling the stuffiness often associated with fine-dining restaurants, aligning it more with his personal style. That meant replacing pin-drop silence with music, adding a chef’s counter and completely revising the menu to spotlight a Lancashire-focused flex.
“When I took over, I had an opportunity to showcase northern hospitality,” he continues. “I didn’t really know what that meant at the time, but I wasn’t comfortable with just doing what was expected of me, so I started with the environment. I knew that the food would follow.”
The foremost goal was to make The French more accessible: “Any restaurant in the world can be pretentious if you feel like you don’t fit in” he notes. “But I wanted everyone to feel welcome. In hindsight, it probably took a while to figure out that’s what I was trying to do – but I’ve learnt that it takes time to find out what your ‘thing’ is.”
Reid wasn’t plagued with any such uncertainty when deciding to become a chef – two weeks after finishing school at 16, he enrolled at Paul Heathcote’s School of Excellence in Manchester to start a catering apprenticeship. He credits his mum with nurturing his innate interest in food growing up, and reminisces about fond memories of going out with his extended family for meals. “It was nothing special, just down the local pub,” he says. “But I’d always have half a roast chicken with peas, roast potatoes and loads of gravy. A roast is my favourite meal in the world.”
Later, he began working at Bridgewater Hall under the guidance of Robert Kisby, a stint that laid essential foundations for the rest of his career. “Robert is a classically trained, traditional chef but he had quite a modern way of working, so I learnt a lot about French cuisine,” Reid says. “Looking back, it was a really good grounding.”
A year in Germany with friends followed, where he passed as much time drinking beer and doing roly-polies across dancefloors as in the kitchen (he describes it as his gap year), and it was only after he came back to the UK and spent another year working for Kisby at a different venue that his interest in Michelin-level cooking was piqued. One day, without much thought, he typed ‘Michelin star restaurant job’ into Google, and before long he was choosing between roles at The Chester Grosvenor and Mallory Court in Leamington Spa, which both boasted one star at the time. After some deliberation, he plumped for the latter, preferring to work with a tight-knit team in a more intimate venue.
“Before working at the Mallory, I’d been used to doing good food but in the context of volume,” he explains. “But this was a traditional country house hotel so we had room to use really interesting ingredients, which meant the food
“I’m proud of all that I have accomplished. If the accolades come from doing what I do then great, but if they don’t, then so be it; I’m most interested in the feedback that comes from customers as well as my peers.”
we were making was amazing – really precision. It wasn’t just about feeding people anymore; it was about excelling at that.” The next three years were spent immersed in this world of hyper attention to detail, but eventually he became restless, feeling the call of home.
Reid returned north and in a seeming twist of fate, was offered a position at The Chester Grosvenor again, under the stewardship of Simon Radley. But after years spent diligently honing his skills, this time he felt ready for the challenge. “I think I would have been eaten alive if I’d gone there a few years before, because it was another level up again,” he smiles. “It was demanding – I did six months in the pastry section and we would often still be up at 2am cleaning pots!” He eventually moved up to the main kitchen as sous chef, a role he says he wishes he had stayed in for longer. “I suppose I was a bit young, brash and impatient,” he admits. “But after two years I was eager to start my own thing. I see now that I made the wrong decision at that point.”
Even so, life has a way of naturally ironing out the ripples, and in 2013 things took another serendipitous turn when Reid was put in touch with Simon Rogan, who was about to take over The French at The Midland in central Manchester. He was given his first head chef position, and has been there, under various guises, ever since. He’s bagged 4AA rosettes and myriad other accolades during his tenure, and twice appeared on BBC2’s Great British Menu, winning a prestigious place at a banquet at Westminster Palace to celebrate Great Britons of Her Majesty The Queen’s reign with his memorable dessert, The Golden Empire.
All these achievements aside, it’s hard not to wonder what the absence of a much-coveted Michelin star for Adam Reid at The French means for someone with an overtly driven and
Adam Reid took the helm at The French in 2017, crafting a menu described as ‘fine-dining made local’
competitive nature. “It’s something to work towards,” he says after pausing for thought. “You need to refine in order to progress. But I’m proud of all that I have accomplished, especially because it comes from how I operate and the way I want to be. If the accolades come from doing what I do then great, but if they don’t, then so be it; I’m most interested in the feedback that comes from customers as well as my peers.”
Reid is preparing for a new batch of that with the arrival of Aether, a reimagining of the custom airport experience that offers all passengers, regardless of their ticket type, access to an exclusive, Scandi-inspired lounge with front-row runway views. It’s a first in the UK, and Reid’s contribution is a specially curated menu spanning breakfast, lunch and dinner. He developed the concept by blending high-quality dining with convenience and typical aplomb, plus a smidgeon of the wisdom he’s amassed after so long in the industry.
“I’ve grown up enough to realise that it’s not
all about me,” he says. “It’s about the people who come here to start or end their journey in the best possible way. So I’m bringing a food offering that contributes to that experience, alongside a bit of Manchester identity that gives passengers a sense of place.”
Unsurprisingly then, the resulting dishes have a distinctly northern twang. Think hot smoked salmon and scrambled crumpet for breakfast; mincemeat gravy on toasted malt loaf for lunch; and stewed beef cheek with crispy sage, onion and bread for dinner. Classically humble but with elevated flavours, it’s what you might have come to expect from Reid. Crucially for him, it’s providing an unrestricted stage for his ongoing vision. “With experience, you figure out what matters to you and how you’re going to use what you do to reflect that,” he says. “I don’t think it’s normal to only appeal to a very small amount of people. So yes, the lounge is plush, but if you want to come, you can because everyone’s welcome. We’ll be really glad that you did.”
Dishes at Aether have a distinctly northern twang, and include the likes of smoked salmon crumpet and mashed avocado and rocket on fried rye
PROFILE
Daniel Moran Culinary Vice President Como Hotels & Resorts
Australian chef Daniel Moran earned his stripes in one of Sydney’s busiest kitchens, cult restaurateur Neil Perry’s trendsetting steakhouse Rockpool Bar & Grill. A strong sense of wanderlust led him to Europe in 1998 and later to London, where he worked at Damien Hirst’s Pharmacy restaurant, among others. Eventually, a friend working at Como Parrot Cay in Turks and Caicos persuaded him to move to the Caribbean, where he became the resort’s Sous Chef. He has remained with Como Hotels & Resorts ever since, helping to launch multiple hotels all over the world and rising through the ranks to become Executive Chef and Group Chef, before transitioning to the company’s corporate arm and taking the reins as Culinary Vice President, a position he has held for six years.
A Delicate Balance
Today’s guests expect holistic wellness seamlessly combined with luxury. Daniel Moran considers how Como Hotels & Resorts develops its culinary programme to serve the best of both.
Words: Shanna McGoldrick
The Como Hotels & Resorts portfolio comprises 19 properties worldwide, and the group’s reputation for unbridled opulence and unwavering commitment to wellness has established it as a leader within the luxury sector. Its properties, which are divided into the boutique brands, Como, Como Metropolitan, Como Uma and Como Shambhala Estate, span contemporary urban hotels, family-friendly resorts and sumptuous destination retreats in far-flung locales, with each venue offering a guest experience that champions the Como philosophy while reflecting the idiosyncrasies of its specific geographic location.
KEEPING IT CLEAN
Holistic wellness serves as the backbone of the Como experience, with the group taking a 360-degree approach to health and wellbeing via a multifaceted offering that spans innovative spa treatments, top-notch fitness facilities and nutritious, nourishing cuisine. Its signature Como Shambhala Kitchen concept promotes healthy whole foods that are low in sugar and salt and completely free from artificial additives, with dishes crafted specifically with the aim of benefiting various physical objectives. Improved blood sugar stability and sustained energy are amongst the wellness intentions, as are craving control and the support of brain and
cardiovascular health. Consequently, dishes such as supercharged bone broths and hearty raw salads appear regularly on menus, but the overall approach refrains from being punitive, instead encouraging a healthy and enjoyable culinary outlook. “We have never been about a caloriecounting style of cuisine,” clarifies Moran. “We’re here to cook very good, simple food, keeping it clean and making sure that produce is fresh. We regularly work with nutritionists on the dishes we create.”
Como was an early pioneer when it came to integrating clean eating into the luxury hotel experience. Its cookbook ‘The Pleasures of Eating Well: Nourishing Favourites from the Como Shambhala Kitchens’ was released by founder Christina Ong in 2021, and in today’s landscape of increasingly sophisticated wellness proposals, its cuisine stands out for its relatively accessible ethos. “It has moved into the mainstream and is becoming a lot more technical,” says Moran of the evolution of clean eating as a concept. “Guest preferences are changing; dietary restrictions are changing. People 20 years ago didn’t have as many dietary restrictions as they do now.”
The group takes a controlled approach to certain, more extreme aspects of the movement, he explains, stating: “We don’t tend to follow too many trends but it’s important to acknowledge what’s going on in the dining sector. For
example, all our menus have plant-based options alongside a balance of other dishes because we believe that the body can eat meat and fish; we don’t need to go plant-based all of the time.”
A BALANCING ACT
Indeed, a respect for balance underpins the entire Como ethos, which is why at each of the group’s properties, the Shambhala Kitchen eatery is complemented by a signature restaurant that typically falls on the more indulgent side of the gastronomic scale. This twin-pillar approach is particularly evident within Como Metropolitan, whose sleek hotels in dynamic global cities often feature headline destination restaurants such as the beloved Japanese-Peruvian brand Nobu at Como Metropolitan London and the Michelinstarred Thai eatery Nahm in Bangkok. Accolades are important to the group – La Torre at Castello Del Nero in Tuscany also has a Michelin star, and Moran singles out Como Le Montrachet in Burgundy as the property the group hopes will catch the Michelin inspectors’ attention next. High-profile chefs are equally as important. Como Metropolitan Singapore, for example, boasts a Korean steakhouse helmed by the Michelin-starred chef Simon Kim, and a fanciful patisserie from the illustrious pastry maestro Cedric Grolet. “Celebrity chefs bring excitement to the hotel and that’s very important,”
underlines Moran. “This is part of our group as well - it’s not all health and wellness.”
The principles of balance also apply to the bottom line, and business needs must be weighed dispassionately against the cachet of household names. “Of course, we’re always trying to work with these people – it’s great to bring them on board,” he elaborates. “But at the same time, that comes with a financial burden. You have to do the numbers and the covers to support these celebrity chefs.” He continues: “The goal is to have Michelin stars and successful busy restaurants. Often the chef wants a Michelin star, while the owners want to generate revenue, and a lot of the time we need to find the balance between having a successful restaurant, paying the bills and actually creating a profit.”
One solution involves nurturing and developing existing talent to cultivate top-level professionals. “We’re now starting to look within the company to create our own Michelin-starred chefs,” he says. “But that takes time.”
PLAYING THE NUMBERS GAME
Talent, it transpires, is one of the most pressing issues facing Como’s culinary division – and the wider hospitality industry. “Staffing is a real challenge,” confirms Moran. Perhaps surprisingly, given the group’s range of remote geographic locations, the global metropolises
are proving to be the trickiest when it comes to employee recruitment and retention. “City locations are the hardest because there’s so much competition out there,” he says. “There are always companies offering more money. The labour market can be difficult to navigate.”
For Moran, the answer lies in providing attractive opportunities for progression within the company, allowing and encouraging employees to transfer between properties and destinations as they gain experience. This is particularly important, he believes, when it comes to opening up leadership and management pathways. “We have destinations in Indonesia, Thailand, Bhutan – places where we have young, passionate people that really enjoy cooking,” he says. “We train them up, so we have staff that have been with us for 20 years and might have been through four different hotels. We like to have that cross exposure.”
Additional priorities include harnessing more guests to boost the overall portion of group-wide revenue that stems from F&B. It’s a figure he estimates currently sits at approximately 30% but would like to see bumped to 35% or more. After all, he points out, everything comes down to balance. “A successful restaurant needs to have a balance between high standards, good quality food and making money,” he concludes. “That’s the most important thing.”
TWords: Catherine Martin
Photography: Courtesy of Raffles at Galaxy
IN A BITE
Operator: Raffles
Interior Design: Kinney Chan & Associates
Founding Chef: Masaaki Miyakawa
Executive Chef: Hironori Satake
www.galaxymacau.com
he Japanese art of wabi-sabi – an approach that values the beauty of simplicity – has found an unlikely home on Macau’s bustling Cotai Strip, courtesy of a new restaurant from chef Masaaki Miyakawa. Located within Raffles at Galaxy Macau, Sushi Kissho by Miyakawa is an exclusive dining experience that seats just ten guests, serving cuisine that blends Hokkaido influences with the centuries-old tradition of Edomae sushi.
The venture marks the first international outpost for Miyakawa – one of only six sushi masters in Japan to be awarded three Michelin stars – with the artistry of his highly skilled team taking centre stage; every chef has undergone rigorous training, ensuring each piece of sushi is crafted with precision and care.
In line with wabi-sabi, Miyakawa’s cuisine uses the finest fresh ingredients sourced directly from Japan; each is selected for its quality and distinctive character, then meticulously prepared to allow the natural flavours and textures to shine. The experience begins with
seasonal appetisers such as seared alfonsino served with mountain wasabi and ponzu vinegar, and black abalone with liver sauce –a signature dish from Miyakawa’s restaurant in Sapporo. This is followed by delicacies of kuruma ebi (Japanese tiger prawn), Kohada – a staple of Edomae sushi – and chutoro (tuna), which is aged for a week before being marinated in a home-brewed soy sauce.
Interiors are also guided by wabi-sabi, translated here through a minimalist aesthetic and the use of natural materials. The openplan design fosters a connection between chef and guest, with the sushi counter itself a key feature; crafted from a 300-year-old Kiso Hinoki Cypress tree sourced in Nagano Prefecture, it is characterised by a signature maple leaf inlay by master craftsman Mr Tomita. Completing the look, intricate artworks reflect the precision of sushi preparation, while ceramics by the Miyagawa family, renowned ceramicists since the Edo period, are complemented by antique Ikebana baskets from Kyoto.
Annette Kolb probably didn’t plan to make the original Hotel Cayré in Paris her home when she arrived with suitcases in 1944. Then again, she probably didn’t expect to stay for the following 17 years either. But both things eventually came to pass, and in tribute to the French-German writer and pacifist’s extended tenure as a resident, a restaurant has now been named after her. It’s housed within the revamped Le Grand Hôtel Cayré – the first property from new lifestyle brand, Miiro – and it’s both a celebration of French cuisine and testament to her inspiring endeavours.
with dark oak flooring. Intricately tapestried stools hug a bar adorned with burnt orange tiles that’s topped with cream vintage lamps emitting a warm glow; tables and chairs are the colour of walnut, and cushions in shades of ochre and dark yellow are strewn among the cosy booths.
The open, welcoming ambience was all part of the plan, of course. “The use of soft furnishings and sporadic placement of photographs encourages a home from home atmosphere,” Gregoriou says. “That makes it a place for our guests to relax and unwind.”
IN A BITE
Owner: InterGlobe
Operator: Miiro
Interior Design: Michaelis Boyd
Head Chef: Bruno Brangea www.miirohotels.com
When designing Annette, the team at Michaelis Boyd gathered references from the local neighbourhood. “The restaurant pays homage to and complements the traditional Hausmannian style of Saint Germain,” explains Christina Gregoriou, Partner at Michaelis Boyd. “Simplicity and intricacy are visible in the details.” This fact is evident on first glance, when the eyes are met by a neutral colour palette that blends cappuccino-shaded walls
Diners can also enjoy Bruno Brangea’s fresh interpretation of a brasserie menu, with the former Head Chef for Alain Ducasse offering contemporary twists on classic French dishes including the croque monsieur, tartare du boeuf and crème brûlée. Take a seat on the terrace, with unparalleled scenic views of Boulevard Raspail, and raise a crisp glass of French wine to Annette Kolb, whose existence made moments like this possible.
French refinement meets the mystique of the deep sea at La Méditerranée Robuchon, one of the new dining concepts unveiled by Four Seasons Resort at The Pearl-Qatar. Helmed by Michelin-starred chef Joël Robuchon, the restaurant has been designed by Avroko to honour its proximity to the sea.
“We aimed to create a luxurious French seafood restaurant where guests are immersed in a space of bohemian elegance and the fantastical sea,” explains Avroko Design Director Alex Reed. “The design includes elements that mirror the gentle ebb and flow of ocean waves and underwater currents, contributing to a fluid, aquatic sensorial experience.”
lighting includes a jellyfish chandelier and sea creature-like table lamps that act as whimsical characters from an aquatic scene.”
The Mediterranean influence meanwhile can be seen in the materiality of the space, with ribbed plaster columns and archways featuring alongside marble and terracotta. “One of the standout features is the artisanal flooring, created using traditional laying techniques known as Palladiana mosaic,” Reed adds, explaining that the technique involves interlocking marble pieces to produce a seamless finish reminiscent of ancient Italian floors.
IN A BITE
Operator: Four Seasons
Architecture: Dara Architects
Interior Design: Avroko
Graphic Design: Joël Robuchon International
Executive Chef: Eric Gonzalez
Head Bartender: Sebastian Gonzales
Head Sommelier: Luisa Oliveira
www.lamediterraneerobuchondoha.com
Free-flowing forms set the tone of the space, along with a reflective metal ceiling that mimics the ocean’s surface; more playful touches come in the details. “Surprise is introduced through unexpected design elements,” reveals Reed. “Bespoke furniture inspired by ocean coral and seashell forms is upholstered in red and teal shades derived from the reefs, while custom
Freshness is a hallmark not only of the interiors, but the menu too. Guests are greeted by an extravagant display of seafood on ice, complete with live lobsters that are later prepared by Executive Chef Eric Gonzales in the open kitchen. Further French-Mediterranean signature dishes at La Méditerranée Robuchon include crispy langoustines, lobster spaghetti with Coraline sauce and a tender beef filet with Malabar black pepper.
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Wonder Room
The Singapore Edition
SINGAPORE
Words: Abby Lowe
The barometer for luxury is changing. No longer does it signify brash extravagance; in today’s design world, the concept comes in more refined packages. But at places like Wonder Room at The Singapore Edition, that downscaling hasn’t come at the expense of opulence. The micro-club, tucked behind the hotel’s signature spiral staircase, uses every inch of space to dramatic effect. “We aimed to capture the essence of refined glamour,” says Giovanni Graziadei, Director of Beverage at The Singapore Edition. “The designers drew inspiration from timeless elegance to create an intimate yet lively atmosphere.”
and a gold-fringed ottoman that serves as a definitive accent piece.
IN A BITE
Owner: Granmil Holdings
Operator: Marriott International
Architecture: Safdie Architects, DP Architects
Interior Design: Ian Schrager Company, Cap Atelier
F&B Manager: Ang Kye Seng
www.editionhotels.com
Setting the scene, the journey begins with a mesmerising walk through a bronze mirrored tunnel. Inside, Wonder Room is a characterised by dark-hued walls and a charcoal-domed ceiling, with an extravagant gold bar stacked with premium spirits taking centre stage. There’s a stylish antique pool table – an Edition signature – and sumptuous red velvet stools positioned around polished dark wood tables,
The surprises continue with Pink Room, a secret speakeasy seating just 20 people. Decorated in soft blush tones, the exclusive space is tailored for more intimate gatherings, allowing guests to kick back and savour caviar and cocktails. On the menu are signatures including Clover Club – a blend of gin, blanco vermouth, lemon and egg whites – and the smoky El Diablo, combining mezcal, ginger beer and lime. Classics like Paloma, Old Fashioned and Cosmopolitan are also expertly crafted. Meanwhile, the party back in Wonder Room continues apace with performances from resident DJs and dancers alongside showstopping projections and imaginative lighting. “Wonder Room stands out from the crowd among Singapore nightlife, but it can also be transformed to suit any occasion,” Graziadei concludes. “We aim to ensure that this captivating space infuses every event with a sense of the extraordinary.”
Forth
ATLANTA
Method Co develops a range of culinary concepts for its new venture – a luxury hotel and social club in Atlanta’s historic Old Fourth Ward.
As an entertainment and sports hub, Atlanta has quickly become an American gateway city on par with New York and Los Angeles. With a host of residential and hospitality developments sprouting throughout its neighbourhoods, the charming southern capital’s culinary scene has also evolved significantly. Enter Forth, a boutique hotel and members’ club concept located at Old Fourth Ward, one of the city’s oldest and trendiest districts.
The property has been envisioned by Philadelphia-based Method Co, which cultivates its own impressive culinary concepts. Behind those at Forth is Food & Beverage Director, Omari Buncum. “As vast and talented as Atlanta’s dining culture is, we only started taking ourselves seriously about five years ago,” he explains. “It was mostly southern here; very local. Old Fourth Ward is a mostly residential neighbourhood and there’s a luxury scarcity here, so we wanted to fill that gap.”
Buncum’s first order of business was to scour the Atlanta culinary scene for specific talent. He found this in Executive Chef John Adamson, a New Jersey native who knows his way around seafood and steak and is well-versed in the nuance of Italian cuisine. Next came Executive Chef Jonathan McDowell, who honed his Mediterranean prowess at Atlanta hotspots Delbar and Barcelona Wine Bar; and Executive Pastry Chef Carelys Vazquez, whose previous experience at James Beard and Michelin-starred restaurant Lazy Betty equipped her to occupy the luxury niche at Forth. “We knew we needed three different minds to bring all this to life,” Buncum says
Forth’s culinary programme includes Il Premio (previous page) and poolside eatery Elektra (above), serving pan-Middle Eastern fare
of his culinary dream team. Filling the gap in the market with unique concepts was intuitive for Buncum who, as a native Atlantan, had seen the city’s food scene flourish. “We knew we needed to run a bakery programme but we also needed to be nimble enough to create high-end plated desserts,” Buncum continues.
“We also knew that we needed a more traditional steakhouse chef that had enough depth to be able to navigate an Italian menu. We wanted a more purist approach than what is prevalent in Atlanta; a northern Italian offer with fresh seafood, butters, housemade pasta and the best prime cuts we could find.”
The day begins at breakfast with two venues – an ambitious move for the 196-room count. Viennoiserie is served in Bar Premio – the hotel’s espresso and aperitivo bar that has streetside presence – and a more involved menu is served poolside at Elektra, the panMiddle Eastern venue. Cuisine runs the gamut from an Israeli shakshuka to Turkish eggs and a traditional Lebanese breakfast hummus. A standout is the olive oil pancake with whipped saffron butter.
This fresh fare is served in a space where design is a veritable pan-Mediterranean bazaar of influences.
“The aesthetic is influenced by the relaxed sophistication of the Amalfi coast and can be seen in the choices of rattan lighting, Thonet leather chairs and fluted Tambour tables,” explains Method Co Creative Director, Daniel Olsovsky. “Materials are natural and span leather, honed marble and indigo linen. There’s a collection of wool and cotton Persian Malayer, Sarouk and Oushak rugs in an assortment of pale raspberry and dusty rose across the floors.” An expansive electric blue mural of Elektra herself was painted by Reverend Michael Alan.
All-day poolside bites like harissa fries and a refreshing tomato and feta salad are available to guests and club members, while outside guests can partake in salads and panini at Bar Premio. Forth’s culinary scene truly shines in the evening hours with two distinct offerings, ideal for multi-night stays. After grabbing an Aperol spritz at Bar Premio, guests are invited to Il Premio which, according to Olsovsky, is a visual celebration of music and Milan in the 1970s. Its anteroom features a second bar adorned with a mural celebrating the iconic Palio di Siena bareback horse race – the winner of which is presented with Il Premio,
or the ultimate prize. Olsovsky says of the main dining room’s design: “The décor, colour palette and furniture is nuanced, stylistically influenced and pulled from early 1970s Milan – a popular time for Pink Floyd throughout the country. The influence of incredible designers like Gio Ponti, Carlo Mollino and Osvaldo Borsani can be felt throughout the custom banquettes, carpet, tiling and lounge seating. Music is a critical element in all of our projects and was something I really wanted to nail with Il Premio. I pulled inspiration from musicians like Bryan Ferry and Giorgio Moroder, curating a celebration of victory and life.”
Notable dishes here include octopus with squid ink and potato, which pairs well with a burrata and mission figs. Pasta, all made in house, of course, includes a hearty short rib agnolotti and lobster rigatoni. Prime cuts, from filet to dry-aged Kansas City strip, sit alongside Cotoletta Milanese, a true nod to northern Italy. But what truly makes menu special is the inclusion of a range of Japanese Wagyu, plus
Middle Eastern favourites like honey harissa chicken and Baharat-doused ribeye.
Rounding out the night and featuring stunning views of the Beltline is Moonlight, a venue that further pays homage to 1970s with an added retro kick. “With Moonlight, we wanted to celebrate the energy of an Italian discoteca, the space race and tricked out automobiles,” Olsovsky says.
“We envisioned a 1976 Cadillac Coupe de Ville parked on the 16th floor overlooking the historic old Fourth. The space features a replica of the HK Diplomat ‘Rocketman’ sofa that Elton John had on his private jet, along with a mirror-tiled bar that was inspired by home cocktail culture of the late 20th century. Illuminated glass brick columns flank an exotic marble fireplace and a Pop Art-inspired full moon painting. Signature cocktails like Moonshadow – featuring bourbon, Jamaican rum, coffee beans and Red Eye Bitters, and Flyby – with pistachio-infused gin, butterfly pea flower and rose – bring the space to life and provide the perfect end to the culinary adventure.
Like a kid in a candy store, the Portuguese chef Nuno Mendes, who has worked in London for several decades, is feverishly preparing to open Santa Joana – his latest and potentially most exciting project to date, promising to upend Lisbon’s already seismic food scene. “I have been a chef for almost 30 years, working across several continents,” the chef explains from Cozinha das Flores, his restaurant in Porto. “But now I’m settled between London, Porto and Lisbon, where I was born. I’ve done some nice projects in my life that I’m proud of but I continue with my passion and I’m excited about launching Santa Joana in my hometown. I love Porto, but I miss being in Lisbon; this is really coming home.”
Housed in the cloisters of a 17 th century convent, the project forms part of Locke de Santa Joana, the new aparthotel from Edyn. Mendes helms the hotel’s eponymous flagship restaurant, just a cobblestone’s throw from
upscale Avenida Liberdade and its chic boutiques and swanky terraces.
The F&B venue, conceived by London hospitality and restaurant incubator White Rabbit Projects, is nestled at the epicentre of the buzzing 370-apartment complex, which is spread across two restored convent buildings and a new wing overlooking a courtyard garden with large pool.
White Rabbit doesn’t see Santa Joana as a fine dining venue with a tasting menu but a relaxed and fun space, more in line with the hotel’s other cluster of contemporary F&B outlets. There’s all-day dining Mediterranean restaurant, Santa Marta overlooking the outdoor terrace; Café Castro’s, a relaxed lobby café and co-working space; Spiritland, a subterranean music-led space; The Kissaten, home to Lisbon’s largest whisky collection; and O Pequeno, an intimate champagne and martini bar – all curated by London-based music venture, Spiritland.
Design studios Lázaro Rosa-Violán and Post Company collaborated to transform Santa Joana’s monastic setting, taking inspiration from its history and retelling the story with bold modern lighting installations and specially commissioned works by local artisans, like Sebastião Lobo and Ana Teresa Barboza, whose pieces reflect the site’s chequered heritage.
“Despite being located inside the hotel, Santa Joana operates as an independent entity and has a direct street entrance via Rua de Santa Marta; this sets the tone of the experience,” Mendes explains. “We are now the custodians of this amazing space so we have to honour and celebrate it. The restaurant is based around conviviality and having fun, so hopefully we will achieve that and guests will engage with the space. I would personally like our guests to remember us for the fun times they’ve had fuelled by good food, good drinks, great music and amazing hospitality.”
Despite considering himself an Alfacinha –literally a salad eater (an endearing term to
denote a person from Lisbon) – Mendes did not always consider being a chef. “When I was growing up, I didn’t think it was a possible career path,” he says. “But my first food memories are from Lisbon and the Alentejo, and it was these flavours I tried in my youth that inspired me to cook and to eventually choose cooking as a profession.”
Years later, this has played into the creation of the Santa Joana menu. “Ingredients always come first, and then ideas based around Portuguese gastronomy follow,” he explains. “Adding to that is inspiration from my travels. It’s also the product of a dialogue between my fellow chefs Maria Ramos, Mauricio Varela and our extended team.”
As you enter the museum-like restaurant, an open kitchen bar focuses on raw and cold preparations such as lightly marinated fish and seafood, including oysters from Ria Formosa, Ria de Aveiro and the Sado Estuary. “The starting point is always the raw product,” Mendes says. “Contemporary Portuguese
Helmed by Nuno Mendes, Santa Joana sits at the heart of Locke de Santa Joana – a former 17thcentury convent
cuisine is based on amazing local ingredients from small producers. It’s inspired by the country’s gastronomic culture but also reflects the cosmopolitan nature of Lisbon today.”
A larger than life character, full bearded Mendes has no shortage of ideas when he is with his Executive Chef, Varela, who previously ran Lisbon’s revered riverside Dahlia bar. “I really like the energy he has in the kitchen,” he affirms. “I felt a great affinity with him.” Ramos, meanwhile, previously worked with Mendes at the acclaimed Bairro Alto Hotel restaurant, Bahr. “She is someone I trust implicitly so I want her to feel that this project is also hers.” Another partner, Nuno Dinis, also worked at Bahr, and is now the Executive Chef responsible for the entire hotel.
Beyond the Santa Joana entrance, a cavernous two-level dining room serves more elaborate dishes like Farinheira flour pimenton sausage toasties with prawns and seaweed, or chicken hearts with spicy Pica Pau sauce. Entrees include smoked squid and Portuguese curry, or beef
heart tomato with Algarve sweet potato, while main course highlights include turbot broth, and Alentejo pork tusk with a walnut sauce.
For lighter snacks, Santa Joana’s antipasti menu includes Alentejo acorn-reared black pig ham, charcoal grilled clams and Portuguese pastéis de massa tenra, as well as handmade tagliolini with yellow courgetti, and pappardelle with beef ragu. Desserts are inspired by the vision of Locke’s dedicated pastry chef, who’s also responsible for the local beers, Mediterraneanfocused wines and classic cocktails on offer at Café Castro’s.
Having had so much success in London with Michelin-starred outlets Mãos and Viajante 87, Mendes ruminates on his approach to this new project. “You are only as good as your last gig so I don’t take anything for granted,” he says with a smile. “I approach each new challenge ready to learn and grow. Utimately, it’s all about passion for food and the ability to share this with others – for me, this is always the most critical thing!”
Renowned architecture firm Foster + Partners unveils its most sustainable project to date in celebration of the richness of Italian food, wine and art.
Found at the end of a meandering journey along winding, country tracks and up verdant hillsides, Monteverdi feels entirely set apart from any other town or village in this pocket of rural Tuscany, which lies within the famously scenic UNESCO-designated area of Val d’Orcia.
Created in 2012 by American lawyer and professor, Michael Cioffi, Monteverdi has transformed the once dilapidated and mostly abandoned village of Castiglioncello del Trinoro into a culturally enriching design-led retreat celebrating Italian food, wine and the arts. Inspiration taken from the Tuscan countryside is seen in every corner of the peaceful hideaway, from restored stone houses and former public spaces like the village school, to a 700-year-old church.
A decade after opening, the thoughtfully curated resort underwent an extensive expansion featuring stylish new accommodation. The unveiling of a Roman-inspired Monteverdi spa and contemporary art gallery followed, and the latest enhancement to the resort is a brand new restaurant. Named after a matriarch of the village, Zita was designed by prominent architectural firm Foster + Partners, whose primary aim was to blend the sustainable, aesthetic and hyper-local values present elsewhere in the resort.
“Zita celebrates rural Tuscany and the unique area of Val d’Orcia, where gently cultivated hills give way to small hamlets and there is a rich gastronomic tradition,” says Annamaria Anderloni, a partner at the firm. “We designed a welcoming and relaxed restaurant where the ultimate luxury
is the slow pace at which guests can enjoy the beauty of the landscape and the richness of the food.”
Describing the project as the firm’s most sustainable yet, Anderloni and her peers endeavoured to use local and reclaimed materials in restoring and reimagining the interiors of several abandoned stone houses, found just off the village piazza. In the end, as much as 90% of the materials used, such as timber, textiles and stone, were sourced from the surrounding area.
“We made extensive use of reclaimed local materials, including the beautiful 300-year-old Pietra di Trani stone seen across the floors,” says Anderloni. “We used reclaimed bricks for the vaults and reclaimed solid timber planks for the tabletops. All newly-sourced materials were then selected from local suppliers, such as the distinctive, greenveined Cipollino marble, which was quarried in Carrara and used for the bar counter.”
Traditional wine cellars of the region provided inspiration for the restaurant’s interiors, which combine original structural elements, such as sweeping arches and stone walls, with new additions like a modern vaulted ceiling, theatrical lighting system, sleek marble bar and state-ofthe-art kitchen. Several intimate dining rooms span the space, which also showcases artefacts and artworks like an Etruscan vase that hints at the village’s historic roots. The restaurant’s furniture also fits the hyperlocal nature of the site, having all been sourced from within a 100-mile radius.
Upon starting the project, Foster + Partners undertook a thorough survey of the surrounding area to seek out local artisans. “We were immediately captivated by the work of the blacksmith, Giordano Giulianini,” says Anderloni. “There is an ancient tradition of iron craftsmanship in Italy, so we decided to use it in the archways and fixed furniture. For the loose furniture, we combined it with leather, another example of traditional Tuscan craftsmanship, while the timber furniture was handmade by talented local, Giancarlo Neri.”
“A key aspect of the design is the flexibility we built into the project,” she continues. “The choice of finishes and bespoke lighting design completely transforms the spaces between day and night, allowing the restaurant to fulfil its all-day-dining mission. The dining rooms –which on one side spill out across an al fresco terrace – feel fresh and inviting for breakfast and lunch, and later in the day, they evolve into a sophisticated space for dinner, wine tasting, apéritifs and private dining experiences.”
On the culinary side, Zita is led by newly-appointed Executive Chef Riccardo Bacciottini. Hailing from Tuscany, he previously worked in the kitchens of Gordon Ramsay’s restaurant Maze and with Renè Redzepi at Noma. “Our intention is not only to honour and serve traditional Tuscan dishes, but also to really focus on sustainability through our ingredients and producers,” he says. “Another fundamental pillar of our philosophy is to elaborate on the story and background behind dishes of Etruscan origin. We want our guests to experience the culture of Tuscany by trying the dishes that are influenced by the many and varied groups that have characterised our territory over the years.”
As such, menu standouts include Casentino ravioli made with flour from Terre Casentinesi and served with seasonal mushrooms; wild boar cooked on coals with herbs, onions, nettle cream and grilled aglione flowers; and wellington quail, a dish inspired by Bacciottini’s childhood memories of hunting in the woods with his father and family dog. Meanwhile, delicious desserts include a creamy reduced sheep’s milk tartlet, and wild ice cream flavoured with
elderflower and served with emulsified toffee and spruce essential oil. “I’m in love with the ingredients we produce here in Tuscany,” notes Bacciottini. “Our Amiata mountain is famous for having a beautiful variety of products. We are surrounded by mushrooms and truffles, and very particular fruits and vegetables like the Picciola pear and Scosciamonaca plum. Of the producers we work with, our neighbour and Pecorino producer Giancarlo Pìu is one of the most notable. His ethos aligns with ours in his dedication to staying authentic to the land.”
These products come together with a touch of culinary innovation in Bacciottini’s vision of modern Tuscan gastronomy. “We have a team who are dedicated to researching and developing creative new ways to cook, while also bringing the Tuscan experience into each dish,” he says.
Unparalleled design and gastronomy combine at Monteverdi, which succeeds in its mission to celebrate Tuscany’s rich culinary culture and traditions with its guests. As Bacciottini concludes: “We use the menu as a platform to pay homage to celebrated dishes of the region and the methods and stories behind them.”
IN A BITE
Owner: Michael Cioffi
Architecture: Ilaria Miani, Archiloop (Zita)
Interior Design: Foster + Partners
Menu Design: Cecilia Melli
Executive Chef: Riccardo Bacciottini
F&B Manager: Jan Kerkoff www.monteverdituscany.com
As guests continue to seek memorable dining experiences, London’s luxury hotels embrace the theatre of the tableside trolley.
Words: Shanna McGoldrick
London restaurant Dovetale’s interiors might be described as luxuriously low-key; natural textures, wooden tones and plush booth seating combine to create an elegantly muted aesthetic. So first-time visitors to Tom Sellers’ produceled venue might be surprised by the sight of a delightfully incongruous ice cream-hued trolley roving the floor, adorned with jars of sprinkles and serving up joyfully retro knickerbocker glories.
“It’s opulent, it’s theatrical, it feels personal and more importantly, it’s fun,” says the two-Michelin-starred chef, who launched Dovetale at 1 Hotel Mayfair in the summer of 2023. “There’s something really comforting about nostalgic desserts, and food should bring warmth and happiness. Already, the knickerbocker glory at Dovetale has become something of a cult dish – undoubtedly in part due to the visual impact the trolley makes in the room.”
Indeed, trolley service is firmly back in fashion, and London’s chicest hotels are outdoing one another when it comes to putting the wheels in motion. While many of the capital’s grande dame establishments have been flambéing and filleting tableside for decades, several newer hotel
restaurants are also adopting the concept, keen to inject a dash of old-school glamour into the contemporary finedining experience. From the bespoke tuna trolley being rolled out at Raffles London at The OWO’s hot new restaurant Kioku by Endo, to the ‘Long Lunch’ dessert trolley that Ham Yard Hotel unveiled earlier this year, increasingly innovative offerings are proving that there’s no menu item that can’t be boosted by the fun factor of four wheels.
For traditional hotels such as The Goring, whose historic restaurant The Dining Room offers a comprehensive trolley service spanning champagne, desserts and a signature Beef Wellington experience, the practice remains as important as ever. “In The Dining Room, we’re all about creating experiences that are memorable, and the trolley service plays a big part in that,” says Jeet Chauhan, Director of Food & Beverage. “It brings this fun, almost theatrical vibe to each part of the meal, making everything more interactive and engaging.” Though the restaurant underwent a complete refurbishment earlier this year, there was never any question of revising the trolley service. “The silver trolley we use for the Wellington, in particular, is iconic,” says Chauhan. “It’s woven into the very fabric of The Dining Room, and we wouldn’t dream of changing that.”
Trolley service has long been a fixture of classical luxury dining rooms, but its recent reinterpretation places an emphasis on creating fun, visually impactful moments and is driven, at least in part, by the power of social media. “We are seeing a resurgence with trolley service becoming very much part of the London high-end dining scene, thanks to customers who appreciate a little bit of theatre when dining out, in addition to fulfilling their needs for social media content,” says Luca Gaeta, Maître d’ at The Stafford’s upscale restaurant The Game Bird, where Sunday roasts are
“We are seeing a resurgence with trolley service becoming very much part of the London high-end dining scene, thanks to customers who appreciate a little bit of theatre when dining out.”
LUCA GAETA – THE GAME BIRD
carved tableside on handsome handcrafted carts. “Trolley service elevates the dining experience to the next level and is the ultimate in showmanship.”
Chauhan agrees that capturing content-worthy moments is a draw for many diners. “Guests love the whole show –seeing the dish being prepared and served right in front of them,” he says of The Dining Room’s Beef Wellington, which is cooked for two and carved tableside. “And let’s be honest, in the age of social media, people can’t resist snapping a picture or making a reel when something like that happens! It’s interactive and memorable.”
Helpfully, the concept also adds depth to the real-life experience, particularly when it comes to creating a sense of anticipation. “Guests love to be able to see the trolley being wheeled around and to eye up dessert during their meal,” says Pedro Paulo, Food & Beverage Manager at Ham Yard Hotel, while Chauhan adds: “It’s like the old saying ‘you eat with your eyes first’ – the trolley brings that to life.”
John Williams MBE agrees. The Executive Chef of The Ritz London – arguably one of the most famous destinations for classic tableside theatre – believes that the intricate dance of trolley service is one of the reasons for its recent comeback. “It has this platform of theatre – where the fun begins,” he says. “Where part of the enjoyment of eating is teasing the customer before they eat.”
As for the trolleys themselves, they provide a valuable opportunity to make a design statement. Dovetale’s knickerbocker glory apparatus is a feat of engineering: collaboratively conceptualised and designed by Sellers and Seymourpowell, the agency that worked on Virgin Galactic’s commercial spacecraft Unity 22, each cart is capable of keeping multiple ice cream flavours cold and chilling glasses instantly, despite not being connected to electricity and
At The Stafford (previous page) and The Ritz (bottom right), a trolley service plays an important role in creating a memorable dining experience
“The knickerbocker glory at Dovetale has become something of a cult dish –undoubtedly in part due to the visual impact the trolley makes in the room.”
TOM SELLERS – DOVETALE
being completely mobile. The Goring’s silver Beef Wellington trolley, meanwhile, features a built-in hot water system that keeps it perfectly warm until carving time, while The Stafford has invested more than £27,000 over the years in its bespoke collection of trolleys, which are handcrafted in either walnut or oak sourced from managed forests, and feature satin brass detailing. “They are as functional as they are beautiful,” says Gaeta.
The concept is also widely popular with serving staff, who often welcome the chance to showcase specific culinary skills and enjoy deeper interaction with their guests. At The Ritz, Williams says that tableside service is a great way for staff to be able to hone additional
techniques. “They’re so proud of what they do and proactive when it comes to innovation and staying a step ahead,” he says. “Their standing has moved up a grid or two; they really love it.”
Chauhan points to a similar effect at The Goring, stating: “The team really loves that moment when guests realise their Beef Wellington is made specially for them. Our staff thrive on that connection.”
Of course, behind every smooth trolley service is a well-oiled team; the approach requires meticulous planning and specific staffing to work successfully. Williams points out that consistent communication between staff is key, as is ensuring that each trolley is fully stocked with the correct equipment. “It is a more laborious service,” he confirms. “For instance, the canard or pigeon à la presse takes a lot of work in front of the guests. Three waiters work on the dish; one carving, one pressing to get the juice out of the carcass, and one finishing the sauce. It can take 10 to 15 minutes.”
Timing is also crucially important, especially during a busy service, Chauhan reveals, with the team required to coordinate seamlessly with the rest of the main courses being served. And as Gaeta highlights, food waste and health and safety also need to be taken into consideration. “We’re very conscious about waste; food cannot be refrigerated on the trolley so any items not consumed have to be discarded,” he says of The Game Bird’s service.
Despite the additional logistical requirements, the general consensus is that trolley service is more than worth the extra work it necessitates, boosting customer satisfaction and providing a fun and engaging talking point for diners. And in a culinary landscape as competitive as London’s, every differentiator counts. As Sellers concludes: “The most desirable carts can help put restaurants on the map.”
As luxury hotels embrace the theatre of tableside service, product manufacturers are crafting trolleys that are both stylish and practical.
Mogogo Roll’n Service Cart
The Mogogo Roll’n collection of service carts is a product range that balances aesthetics and practicality. Built to the core values of elegance, functionality and durability, what sets the Roll’n collection apart is its thoughtful details such as the hand-stitched leather handle, quiet-ride casters for smooth movement and quick-change covers available in a variety of colours to suit any décor. Additionally, with versatile add-ons and accessories, the carts can easily be transformed for specialised service, such as cheese or cocktail carts. Available with a stainless-steel handle and heavy-duty bumper option, the collection continues to deliver both functionality and flair.
www.mogogo-buffet.com
Rewthink Bespoke Products for Front-of-House
With an expertise that comes from creating front-of-house products for chefs and restaurateurs for over a decade, every aspect of Rewthink’s designs are carefully considered to ensure its products are as durable and functional as they are aesthetically pleasing. The group’s restaurant and bar trolleys bring theatre, excitement and anticipation to the guest experience; each is custom-designed and made in Rewthink’s Kent workshop using sustainable timber sourced from managed forests. The trolleys are typically 40cm wide – enabling them to be used in narrow spaces – while quality materials include Cumbrian stone, solid brass, stainless steel, copper, glass, leather, silicone and acrylic.
www.rewthink.co.uk
Sea Scallop Tartare
Jean-Georges
The Leinster
DUBLIN
As Jean-Georges Vongerichten continues to make his indelible mark on the global culinary stage, his latest venture, Jean-Georges at The Leinster, brings a fresh perspective to Dublin’s evolving food scene. Already pushing boundaries in London, Paris and Kyoto, the chef’s first foray to the Emerald Isle weaves a tapestry of Irish tradition, French finesse and Southeast Asian vibrancy. This culinary philosophy reaches its zenith in the Sea Scallop Tartare with Plum Sesame, Kohlrabi and Shiso. Born from the creative synergy between Jean-Georges and Head Chef Ross Bryans, it is the continuation of a dish conceived in New York and perfected on Irish soil.
“The scallops in Ireland are second to none, so this preparation works well to showcase them when paired with Asian flavours,” Vongerichten explains. “We use the shiso and kohlrabi as a wrap to bring even more freshness to the dish.” Local sourcing is central to the chef’s approach, and this dish is no exception. The hand-dived scallops are sourced from Irish waters by Glenmar Seafood, while the shiso and kohlrabi are procured from Keelings Farm, a family-run business in Dublin. Vongerichten concludes: “There are no special techniques involved; its simplicity of flavours and quality products that make it special.”
At Agos, a vibrant restaurant within the newlyopened Kimpton Bem Budapest, Mediterraneaninspired dishes are complemented by subtle nods to Hungarian culinary tradition. Emblematic of this approach is the Lemon Ricotta Ravioli, a light and refreshing dessert that combines both familiar and unexpected flavours. Italian-style Cassatelle dough balls – deep-fried to a golden brown – are filled with lemon-flavoured ricotta and served with a citrus gel and yoghurt-honey ice cream. In honour of the locale, there’s also a surprising
secret ingredient. “To add a Hungarian twist, I incorporated sweet sour cream, a common ingredient in a well-known national dessert,” explains Frank Nógrádi, Pastry Chef at Agos. “I experimented with the combination and was pleased with the result, it was the first dessert I developed for the menu and it perfectly captures the flavours and presentation I was aiming for.”
The dish is topped with a delicate honey tuile shaped to depict bees on a honeycomb, and garnished with a sprig of lemon verbena.
Lemon Ricotta Ravioli Agos Kimpton Bem
APÉRITIFS
A Journey Through Time
Whisky is undeniably enjoying a renaissance in the spirits realm, and Aria Resort & Casino in Las Vegas is poised to capitalise on this trend with it latest proposition. The hotel’s Lobby Bar has been transformed into a bespoke Macallan tasting lounge, providing an opportunity for guests to sample some of the rarest and most coveted whiskies – bottles that were previously reserved for private collectors.
Undergoing a complete metamorphosis to welcome one of Scotland’s most renowned distilleries, the venue combines moody lighting and elegant finishes, complemented by a striking red tonal palette that stands in vivid contrast to the bustling casino floor. Design elements marry raw textures such as wood, stone and verdant plants with sinuous shapes, while futuristic origami-inspired motifs subtly reference the unique forms of The Macallan’s specialty bottles.“Aria is
known for delivering exclusive events and unique experiences not found elsewhere in Las Vegas,” explains Mark Gilbert, Aria’s Vice President of Food & Beverage. “The Macallan is recognised worldwide for having an incredible portfolio of high-end whiskies, and this experience celebrates their 200 years of perfection as our resort provides the atmosphere, first-class service and hospitality that will deliver a showstopping sipping locale for our guests.”
Founded in 1824 by Alexander Reid, the maker champions the philosophy that smaller stills yield superior flavour and character. Among the selections available is Time: Space, a rare 1940 vintage matured for over eight decades and the oldest whisky ever released by the brand. Other offerings during the tasting experience include the Macallan Rare Cask 2024 and the Macallan Harmony Collection.
PROFILE
Luvo Ntezo
Head Sommelier, One&Only Cape Town
Head Sommelier at One&Only Cape Town since 2011, Luvo Ntezo is responsible for the resort’s 5,000-bottle wine cellar, and is widely considered one of the foremost wine maestros in the world.
Message in a Bottle
Bringing natural effervescence and humility to the role of Head Sommelier at One&Only Cape Town, Luvo Ntezo muses on the world of wonders encompassed by wine.
Ask Luvo Ntezo a question about wine and he can poetically riff on the subject without pausing for breath. The South African sommelier, born to modest surroundings in a small town in the country’s Eastern Cape, has a natural gift for both oenology and the considered art of talking about it. “There are a lot of things that fascinate me about wine,” he says, his eyes closed in contemplation. “It’s a bottled culture; it brings together people from different backgrounds, countries and continents. It’s more than just wine; it’s connection.”
None of this is hyperbole. In a career spanning over two decades, Ntezo has discovered firsthand the power of searching for the perfect drop. It’s what led him from a life of “just doing a job” to pursuing one of personal purpose. “Wine made me realise that a career should be about what gives you joy,” he explains. “I guess smart people call it passion.”
Though he fell into the world of viticulture by accident, in some ways Ntezo’s ascent seems pre-ordained. His affinity for the complexities of the drink were picked up by chance by winemaker John Loubser, who went on to become a mentor and teacher. He was later sent to study at the Cape Wine Academy in Stellenbosch by the general manager of a hotel he was working at, having also noted Ntezo’s innate talent. Proving the point, he won first place in the Young Sommelier category
at the 2008 Chaîne des Rôtisseurs competition in South Africa, and that same year, he entered an international competition, placing fourth overall. The trajectory continued, and in 2011, everything came together when he was named Head Sommelier at One&Only Cape Town. Ntezo is now considered one of the world’s foremost wine maestros. “I’m given a front row seat in celebrating and changing the dynamics of the culinary space in South Africa,” he says. “It’s a dream come true. And I’m not just saying that because I work here!”
The role of sommelier contains a multitude of intricacies that are as much about understanding natural and human history as about pairing wines with certain flavours, and it’s when delving into these principles that Ntezo really shines. “I am fascinated by vintages: the stories of yesteryear and how they transcend a bottle of wine and the barriers of time,” he explains. “So I’m on a constant journey here, one where I get to meet amazing people, and travel locally and all over the world to share my passion.”
For One&Only Cape Town guests, this translates as truly memorable dining and drinking experiences guided by Ntezo’s wide-reaching knowledge and warmth. In the cosmopolitan resort’s new Rooi restaurant, for instance, where the onus lies in spotlighting the beauty of South African ingredients and traditions, Ntezo called
on old friends when compiling the wine list. “I had to think deeply – I needed a selection that people cannot buy themselves,” he explains. “So I tapped into my relationships with owners and asked them to release a handful of bottles especially for us.” The result is a unique collection of vintages that cannot be bought anywhere else; little treasures cherry-picked by Ntezo.
Meanwhile, in the Wine Studio, Ntezo hosts four-course immersive dinners featuring Cape classics, global standouts and plenty of anecdotes from the man himself, who waxes lyrical on prominent topics like women in the industry and the growth and continued success of boutique farms – subjects close to his heart that also inform his selections for the resort’s impressive 5,000-bottle collection. He describes the process as a beautiful nightmare.
“Have I showcased enough regions? Is there enough focus on family-owned farms? Did I include women winemakers? These are the questions that inform my choices,” he says, reflecting on his quest to represent a full spectrum of places, tastes and faces in the One&Only Cape
Town cellar. “Then I move onto things like diversity of price, a range of iconic vintages and bottles that celebrate local winemakers, plus so much more.”
In fact, it’s a constant balancing act that Ntezo approaches with glee, not least because it means he can offer a platform to lesser-known winemakers – “I want every single woman winemaker or owner to be represented by our wine list, and to continue to ask my industry colleagues to do the same,” he states, but also because it means he can open the door to a new world for his guests too, whether they’re already experts in wine or complete novices.
“Wine shouldn’t be exclusive,” he continues. “It’s a beautiful beverage that is made to be enjoyed by everybody. So, at One&Only, we aim to demystify it; to make it accessible so that everyone can really enjoy it.” That might mean offering a guest a wine they’ve never tried before or delving into their past experiences to discover their preferences and then challenging them.
“The plan is not to give them what they know,” he says. “But rather, to give something different
that builds on their knowledge and in doing so, we make sure that wines aren’t just stored in the darkest corners of a cellar.”
Perhaps this is what it ultimately comes down to for Ntezo – visibility: seeing things where others don’t and in the process, making people feel seen – a skill that elevates traditional dining experiences to the realm of exceptional.
“Wine is a unifying liquid,” Ntezo reveals. “You can find wine that’s been stored in the same vault since World War I and taste it in the knowledge that amid the destruction and carnage of war, people still made wine. Then 100 years later, a diverse group of people came together to drink it, and for a moment, you can tap into the love with which it was made. That’s special.”
Ntezo weaves time-and-space-spanning yarns like this with ease, and somehow it seems to help makes sense of the world’s wild but inexplicable beauty. “Some of the most unforgettable vintages come from the most hostile conditions,” he concludes. “But that fruit, that wine, it’s teaching us patience. It’s saying that even a difficult life is preparing us for something extraordinary.”
THE ITALIAN COFFEE LIQUEUR present s TELL ME MORE WITH AGED BRANDY AND 12 OF HANDMADE ESPRESSO AT A PRESSURE OF 9
COCKTAIL
Plum Oudh
Silverleaf
Pan Pacific
LONDON
They say that we eat first with our eyes, but at Silverleaf at Pan Pacific London, you sip with all your senses. That’s thanks to the introduction of Texture is Everything, a cocktail collection that takes guests on an olfactory journey.
Each creation brings together cutting-edge techniques and sensory artistry to create a visceral experience that is categorised into six taste profiles: Delicate, Effervescent, Rich, Smooth, Creamy and Tannic. A highlight in the Tannic sectionwhich draws inspiration from woody flavoursis Plum Oudh. This variation on a Manhattan is influenced by the Pomegranate Noir fragrance from perfumer Jo Malone and features Glenfiddich 15 and vermouth. “The drink was inspired by my girlfriend’s favourite perfume,” explains mixologist and Head of Research & Development, Rueben Clark. “It is very complex with contrasting flavours like fruit, wood, smoke and spice with a structure similar to that of a Manhattan.”
The cocktail’s flavour profile offers smoky notes complemented by gentle sweetness from spiced plum cordial, garnished with a spritz of edible perfume made from oudh, amber and labdanum. “We spritz the stem of the glass with it, so the drinker has a lingering scent on their fingers throughout and after the drinking experience,” concludes Clark. The result is a cocktail that’s as much about aroma as it is about taste.
Down Under Brooksy Bar
Amora Jamison
SYDNEY
Sydney’s bar scene just got a little jazzier with the arrival of Brooksy Bar at Amora Jamison Sydney. Inspired by the Roaring Twenties, this sophisticated speakeasy is all about opulence, Art Deco style and drinks that make a statement. Brooksy’s menu, curated by mixologist Brendon Hill, takes patrons on a liquid journey through the golden age of travel with each cocktail a passport to a different destination.
The star of the show? Down Under – a drink that nods to Australia’s rich landscapes and eclectic flavours. The cocktail balances creamy Calpis syrup with eucalyptus-infused Tanqueray Nº10, while blood orange and Giffard Pamplemousse liqueur add a zesty kick, making each sip as refreshing as a dip in the waters of Bondi.
“The entire menu is inspired by the golden age of travel in the 1920s, a time when embarking on a journey was a luxury and an exploration of the world’s most enchanting destinations,” explains Michael Thom, Director of Food & Beverage. “Our Down Under Expedition cocktail captures this spirit, blending Australia’s rich flavours and diverse cultures into an elegant taste of adventure. The goal is to transport the drinker to their favourite Australian landscape, where they can take in the view, almost as if they were enjoying a scoop of gelato in the sun.”
Tequila Takeover
Evolving into a multidimensional, sophisticated spirit that’s challenging stereotypes, tequila is gaining populairty in Mexico’s hotels and beyond.
Words: Daniela Toporek
Anew era of tequila is upon us.
Gone are the days when the spirit was associated with late-night partying and overconsumption.
Tequila and its agave sibling, mezcal, have undergone a rebrand, increasing in popularity as premium beverages in bars and restaurants across the globe. As a result, Mexican hotels are tapping into their heritage and creating new experiences to showcase the cultural significance and versatility of the nation’s iconic spirits.
“Tequila’s rise to stardom began when Hollywood stars started launching their own brands,” says Amparo Andaluz, Bar & Restaurant Manager at Andaz Mayakoba Resort Riviera Maya in Playa del Carmen, Mexico. A quick online search and stars including George Clooney, Dwayne The Rock Johnson, and Breaking Bad duo Aaron Paul and Bryan Cranston pop up, each with their own brand and twist on the spirit.
“Tequila was starting to be seen as a premium
drink and its production process became heavily respected,” Andaluz continues. “Celebrities gained interest when high quality, 100% blue agave became the standard in the early 2000s.”
Andaluz adds that the resort’s tequila sales have increased annually by at least 5-10%, cashing in on experiences like Tequila University, a course that covers everything from indigenous history and production, to the differences between tequila añejo – aged for at least a year in oak barrels, and reposado – aged for between two months and a year. Those who pass the course receive a courtesy Bachelor of Spirits degree.
Another factor in the rise of these spirits was the Covid-19 pandemic. According to Steffin Oghene, Vice President of Business Development at Casa Salles, a boutique hotel in the Jalisco town of Tequila, the period resulted in an influx of tourists from within the bar and hospitality industry. “Mexico didn’t close during the pandemic, so hospitality workers came over here to learn,” says Oghene. “For many years,
people only associated tequila with moments of fun and consumption, taking shots at parties. Few understood that tequila is actually one of the most regulated spirits in the world; you must wait at least six years for agave to be ready and every part of the process is monitored.”
Casa Salles offers two-hour tours to explain every part of that intensive process, from grinding and cooking the agave to fermentation and distillation of the final product. A tasting follows, in which experts teach guests how to assess different tequilas by visual appearance, aroma and overall taste. “The experiences we offer are bespoke according to each type of guest,” says Oghene. “Some people just want to relax and sip a tequila, others want to learn about the intricacies of what they’re drinking. We’re a small company, so we can adapt to anything.”
Casa Silencio, an eco-minded distillery and luxury retreat designed by architect Alejandro D’Acosta in the Xaagá valley of Oaxaca, is centered around the ancestral mezcal-making process. Unlike tequila, which can only be produced with the blue Weber agave plant, mezcal can be made from any agave, allowing for a sweeter, smokier flavour. “Mezcal has been booming for the past eight years,” says Maria Fernanda Rodriguez Velazquez, Casa Silencio’s General Manager. “It’s finally becoming globally known, so it’s great to see that people are enjoying it. We now welcome guests that are both beginners and experts, who come to learn about mezcal on a deeper level, or to enjoy a relaxing cultural experience in the valley.”
“For many years, people only associated tequila with moments of fun and consumption, taking shots at parties. Few understood that tequila is actually one of the most regulated spirits in the world; you must wait at least six years for agave to be ready and every part of the process is monitored.”
STEFFIN
Casa Silencio is designed with mezcal and Mexico’s natural landscapes in mind. The hotel’s signature Red Rooster cocktail mixes Silencio’s mezcal with pineapple, orange and ancho chillies for a spicy, citrus-filled welcome. The property was built on an old mezcal factory site and blends the ancestral making processes with new and sustainable energy practices. “Normally, there’s a donkey pulling a big rock to grind the agave plants,” says Rodriguez. “Instead, we have a huge stone machine that works with gravity and solar panels to grind the plants. There’s no other distillery that works like us.”
At Four Seasons Resort Punta Mita in Nayarit, Jalisco, tequila and mezcal tastings are becoming more popular. “Our sales are increasing by around 10-15% each year,” says Enrique Alejos, the resort’s cultural concierge and tequila specialist. “My vision is to teach about every aspect of the drink, like you would with a fine wine – the aromas, the flavours and the colours. Wine can encompass 100 aromas; tequila can comprise as many as 50, each one hinting at the drink’s origin. A bottle of these spirits is an open book, so I teach you how to read it.”
The hotel is using events like El Dia de los Muertos, or Day of the Dead, to further enhance guest curiosity about the spirit, hosting special-themed mezcal and tequila cocktail parties, demonstrations led by renowned mixologists and exclusive dinners. Elias Ramirez, Director of Restaurants & Bars at St Regis Punta Mita, believes that their popularity is proof of the spirit’s increaing acclaim. “Instead of taking
OGHENE – CASA SALLES
Tequila and mezcal form part of the experience at hotels in Mexico and beyond, including (clockwise from top left)
Andaz Mayakoba Resort Riviera Maya in Playa del Carmen, The Standard London, St Regis Punta Mita and NoMad London
“We welcome guests that are both beginners and experts, who come to learn about mezcal on a deeper level.”
MARIA FERNANDA RODRIGUEZ
VELAZQUEZ – CASA SILENCIO
shots, guests are asking questions,” he says. “They have a drink and ask how many kinds of agave we have, and the differences between tequila and mezcal. Once they discover these new flavours, they’re hooked.”
The popularity surge is spreading beyond Mexico too. Hotels across the globe are embracing the tequila trend with more extensive spirit menus and experiences. At NoMad London, Side Hustle offers Latin American fare with an impressive selection of tequila and mezcal, alongside an array of Mexican-inspired cocktails under Bar Director, Liana Oster. Pop in on a weekend and you may even stumble upon a lively tasting session like Agave-Go-Go, where drinks from agave-focused bars like Candelaria in Paris, Leyenda in New York and Licorería Limantour in Mexico City are spotlighted. Decimo, located within The Standard London, also blends Spanish fare with Mexican spirits,
flights and cocktails. “Tequila and mezcal are on the up and continuing to grow,” says Zoe Burgess, The Standard’s Beverage Consultant. “Especially among those who aren’t new to agave spirits and are keen to explore what they have to offer. Our range of mezcal martinis in particular has proven very popular.”
While the boost in sales is certainly a reason to celebrate Mexican spirits, it’s their unique heritage that makes an imprint beyond the fad, which means they stand alongside the likes of whisky, scotch and gin in esteem. “People don’t just buy the spirit,” concludes Oghene. “They buy into the culture and its fun, colourful vibrancy. In Mexico, every state has something to offer, from the food to the drink to the music. Oaxaca is different from Jalisco, which is different from Baja, for instance. Ultimately, people embrace the culture, and tequila comes as part of that.”
At Casa Silencio, a distillery and luxury retreat in Oaxaca, mezcal is made through a combination of ancestral and innovative techniques
Timelessly elegant, simple and beautiful.
DRINKS
Casa Coracho Coracho Tequila
Casa Coracho is a sophisticated new brand specialising in a range of premium tequilas. With Coracho, the brand brings together unique flavours from the Jalisco valley and sea of Nayarit – the largest blue agave producing region in the world – to represent the authentic taste of the ancient ancestral territories of the Coras and the Huicholes, two cultures today united by a common language, Corachol. The brand’s full portfolio currently comprises six tequilas: Blanco, Blanco Rosa, Reposado, Añejo, Añejo Cristalino and Extra Añejo. Coracho has received high-level industry recognition, securing three golds and one silver medal in the Global Spirit Business Tequila and Mezcal Masters 2024, as well as six medals in the International Spirits Challenge 2024. www.coracho.com
Courvoisier Courvoisier XO Cognac
Maison Courvoisier has emerged from the cocoon of a multi-year restoration project that reinforces its legacy of excellence and craftsmanship. Founded in 1828 by Félix Courvoisier in Jarnac, France, the renowned brand is testament to a joyful spirit rooted in the art of cognac-making. Central to this legacy is Courvoisier XO Cognac. Overseen by expert Master Blender, Thibaut Hontanx, and crafted from a blend of different crus: Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne and Borderies eaux-de-vie, it offers a velvety texture and aromatic bouquet, laced with hints of candied orange, crème brûlée and iris flower.
The recent restoration, led by design agency Gilles & Boissier, transforms the historic Maison into a vibrant venue celebrating both the rich terroir and the artistry of cognac production. The exterior is inspired by Paris’ Pavillon de Flore, while equally grand interiors are poised to host global guests, echoing its founder’s vision of conviviality and shared joy.
From a captivating Bar Lounge filled with curated artefacts to a Cognac Tasting Room adorned with beautiful artworks evocative of the surrounding vineyards, each space narrates a chapter of Courvoisier’s rich history.
www.courvoisier.com
Antica Distilleria Quaglia
Ninebar Italian Espresso Coffee Liqueur
The latest creation from Antica Distilleria Quaglia, Ninebar is a liqueur that combines aged brandy and 12 cups of hand-brewed coffee at a pressure of nine bars. This rich and smooth liqueur celebrates the Italian spirit of sharing, the bar tradition and the rituals that distinguish the Bel Paese. Made with single origin 100% Arabica Santos coffee beans from Brazil, it is gently toasted over a low heat using only birch wood. The Santos variety coffee comes from the Cerrado Mineiro region, where it is grown on volcanic soil at an altitude of 8501,000m above sea level, delivering sweet notes of chocolate, caramel and toasted hazelnuts. The pleasantly complex liqueur is characterised by hints of freshly roasted coffee, cocoa, vanilla and caramel. The combination of espresso coffee and aged brandy creates a distinct mix, with a velvety sip and a persistent, bitter finish. Ninebar’s versatility means it can be enjoyed neat, in a luxury Espresso Martini or simply in addition to espresso coffee. Antica Distilleria Quaglia was established in 1890 in Castelnuovo Don Bosco, Piedmont, Italy, by Carlo Quaglia’s family who still runs the business and creates distinct spirits, liqueurs and vermouths.
The distillery believes strongly in tradition and pursues quality through craftsmanship, innovation and creativity, growing its own botanicals and always giving value to time as a primary ingredient.
www.distilleriaquaglia.it
Champagne Palmer
La Réserve Nature
Champagne Palmer & Co unveils its first Brut Nature, La Réserve Nature. According to the brand, the founding idea is to create an intense, pure and racy wine that would extend La Réserve, the house’s timeless signature towards a more mature palate while preserving its beautiful energy and balance.
As with every Palmer & Co creation, time is at the heart of the subtle equation between the freshness and fullness of the great terroirs of the Montagne de Reims, and the art of blending. La Réserve Nature ages six years on its lees for the wine to reveal its full range of aromas, with delicious notes of citrus fruit, brioche and toasted almonds. “Although technically it is a zero dosage wine, one would never guess it by tasting it blind – there is nothing missing,” says Xavier Berdin, Cellar Masterat Champagne Palmer. “That is because initially, the idea behind La Réserve Nature had nothing to do with creating a wine with less sugar, but rather with more time and more flavours.”
Tasting notes are described as complex, precise and pure. Beautiful mineral tension is underpinned by notes of citrus fruit, chalk and candied lemon. Delicate roasted notes are combined with a persistent and saline finish. The champagne’s blend includes 50-55% Chardonnay, 30-35% Pinot Noir, 20-25% Meunier and 30-35 % Reserve wines. www.champagne-palmer.fr/vins/la-reserve-nature
To The Table MEA
7-9 October 2024
ABU DHABI
Specifiers and suppliers from across the region united in Abu Dhabi for three days of curated connection.
It was an inspiring meeting of great minds in Abu Dhabi this October, as senior decisionmakers and F&B suppliers gathered for To The Table’s MEA 2024 edition. The engaging threeday event hosted at the spectacular Fairmont Bab Al Bahr, was seamlessly hosted by Debbie Wilson and Justin Wall of Snap Events, a pair who continue to prove that there’s nothing like the power of in-person connection when it comes to getting ahead in business.
Attended by esteemed names within the industry – all specialists of the region –groups including Accor, Hilton and Marriott International once again sent top-tier talent from their F&B, culinary and procurement teams to discuss their latest projects. They also had sights on diving into curated, oneto-one meetings with attending suppliers, who were each on hand to showcase collections spanning everything from tableware and uniforms to sustainable cutlery and kitchen equipment. Reinforcing the delicate symbiosis that underpins the success of every project, these focused meetings – alongside plenty of networking opportunities – reconfirmed their relevance for both buyers and suppliers alike.
“The event offered the perfect mix of networking and meaningful business discussions that sparked new ideas,” says Andrea Frignani of Valor Hospitality. “We walked away with some great connections and insights.”
With the temperature still pushing 38 degrees come nightfall, delegates were eased into the programme gently on the first evening with a welcome reception at the hotel’s Marco Pierre White restaurant, featuring plenty of crossproject chat, fresh pasta prepared on demand, plus bespoke, ice-cold cocktails served courtesy of the famously excellent hosts at Pernod Ricard. Greetings exchanged and long overdue catch-ups satiated, it was early to bed for most, in preparation for the forthcoming schedule.
To The Table MEA 2024 kicked fully into gear the following morning with the first of four panels hosted by resident media guru, Devina Divecha, who for the event’s opening panel was joined by Olivier Harnisch, founder of Lunasole Hospitality; Tony Chisholm, Vice President of F&B for MEA and Asia at Accor; and Johan Scott Valentine, Vice President of F&B at Rotana Hotels, to discuss the future of hospitality in the MEA. The region’s unique dynamism was highlighted,
as was the importance of meticulously crafting a brand for a destination to attract new tourists –with Saudi Arabia pinpointed for its impressive efforts and constant evolution of ideas.
Carefully planned meetings between buyers and suppliers followed, then after lunch it was back into the seminar room for more industry analysis from Sebastien Brunel, Senior Vice President of Procurement at Accor; Liviu Raulea, Director International Procurement at Marriott; and Noel Attard, CEO of Kempinksi Trading. The trio shared ideas on responsible sourcing in the Middle East, with Brunel remarking: “By being aware of how much waste you make, you produce less, so looking at the entire supply chain is essential. Ten years ago, sustainability was a niche market, but today it’s across the company within Accor.”
The unique challenges of localisation also formed part of the wide-reaching debate, with panellists agreeing that the issue is just as much about educating and managing guests’ needs as it is about sourcing local suppliers.
More invaluable meetings took place in the afternoon, before delegates were whisked away to Rotana Saadiyat Resort, where a cocktail
reception and al fresco feast was served at the grand property’s Nasma Beachfront Bar.
The eye-opening dialogue continued apace on the final day, with attendees gathering for a penultimate seminar on how best to reach environmental targets for a sustainable future. Led by influential figures including Constance Maillard de la Morandais, Director of Sustainability MEAT at Accor; Philip Halanen, Head of Sourcing & Sustainability at Wyndham Hotels & Resorts; and Amruta Kshemkalyani, Director at AK Sustainability Advisory, it was agreed that the hospitality industry has a responsibility to inform its customers about pertinent issues like climate change, while also acknowledging that the global tourism industry has progressed significantly in recent years, successfully reducing its carbon footprint since 2019. “The good news is that when you’re building from scratch you have the opportunity to build lessons in,” Halanen commented, when contemplating how the industry can continue to advance.
Come afternoon, the final panel saw Robert Tabbal, Vice President of Global Guest Technology & Innovation at Accor; Antonio Ducceschi, Chief
Commercial Officer at Starhotels Group; and Ally Northfield, Managing Director at Revenue by Design in an exchange about technology and its role in the evolution of hospitality. Its effects on cleaning, reservations and loyalty programmes were considered, while Ducceschi pointed out that ultimately, technology can be tweaked to suit specific requirements when harnessed correctly. “Some of us are visual; some of us are vocal – it can help us adapt how we learn, and that can only be a good thing.”
One last round of collaborative meetings ensued, and then it was time for the final hurrah out on the hotel’s seafront pool deck. Guests reflected on a productive three days while sipping drinks and admiring the daring moves of fire-eating dancers. “I couldn’t be happier about attending this event,” one delegate was heard saying. “It’s really helped me garner a better understanding of what is available in our sector from all corners of the globe. I’m already looking forward to my next attendance.”
The next To The Table event will take place in Budapest from 1-3 April 2025. www.tothetablemea.com • www.tothetableeurope.com
Endless Solutions
Portuguese ceramics brand Costa Verde reaches a milestone in sustainable porcelain production by embracing innovative waste management techniques.
In a sector known for its high consumption of natural resources and energy, Portuguese ceramics company Costa Verde is setting a new standard with its innovative Endless project. The initiative aims to revolutionise porcelain production by embracing sustainable practices that reduce environmental impact while maintaining product quality.
The Endless product line is the culmination of years of dedicated research and development. At its core lies a commitment to redefining how industrial waste is managed within the manufacturing process. Rather than disposing of production remnants, Costa Verde adopts a circular economy model, reintegrating leftover materials back into the production cycle to create new porcelain pieces. By doing so, the company minimises waste, and by using a unique firing technique, reduces energy consumption and carbon emissions by a significant 35%.
The creation of porcelain conventionally relies on raw materials like kaolin, feldspars and sands extracted from natural reserves, while excess water typically ends up in industrial treatment plants. In contrast, Costa Verde’s approach with Endless ensures that these materials are reused, promoting efficiency and sustainability throughout the manufacturing process.
This is not just a solo endeavour, but one that Costa Verde sees as pertinent to the entire sector. “Sustainability is extremely important in the hotel industry, given the impact that each unit can have on the surrounding environment, so we want to share environmental responsibility and minimise this footprint,” explains Marketing Director, Paulo Pinto Santos. “The key to saving resources is to use them efficiently, and in turn this attracts customers who are increasingly involved and aware of environmental concerns, and the image that a particular hotel or restaurant conveys.”
Moreover, the incorporation of industrial waste into porcelain doesn’t just benefit the environment; it also results in distinctive, high-quality products. Collaborating with ClementinAtelier, a ceramics studio based in Lisbon, Costa Verde has developed a range of decorative items crafted from this waste. Each piece is unique, marked by variations in shape and colour that highlight its artisanal craftsmanship and sustainable origin.
“In line with these principles, Costa Verde decided to go ahead with the development of a line of decorative items for hotels that fulfils our environmental responsibility and respects the environment,” Santos reveals. “We feel it
is a completely different and even disruptive range that varies from the rest of our portfolio.”
Since its inception in 1992, Costa Verde has evolved into one of the world’s most advanced porcelain factories. Its commitment to innovation and sustainability has positioned it as a frontrunner in the industry, serving markets across 50 countries worldwide. This extends beyond its production processes, having been recognised with the National Sustainability Award in 2024, acknowledging its leadership and dedication to environmental stewardship.
Aligned with the United Nations’ 17 Sustainable Development Goals, Costa Verde actively supports initiatives that promote sustainability across various fronts. From environmental conservation to social responsibility, the company spotlights initiatives that contribute to a more equitable global community by prioritising planet, people, prosperity, peace and partnerships.
With the Endless Collection, Costa Verde goes a step further in demonstrating that sustainable practices can harmoniously co-exist with quality and design, paving the way for a future where environmental responsibility goes handin-hand with ceramic production. www.costa-verde.com
PETITS FOURS
Ariane Fine Porcelain Privilege
Since its inception in 2014, Ariane Fine Porcelain has become a key player in the tableware industry. The European brand creates collections tailored for industry professionals, by industry professionals, merging artistry and practicality. The crockery is handcrafted by artisans at a state-of-the-art facility in India, using quality materials and time-honoured techniques to create pieces that will last for years to come. Today, the Privilege collection has been designed to live up to its namesake with a sleek design and focus on simplicity, allowing chefs to express their creativity in presentation. The 15-piece line includes plates, coupe bowls and more. www.arianefineporcelain.com
1. Orrefors
More – Nick & Nora
This old-school martini glass is the latest launch from Orrefors as part of its More collection, a series inspired by the specific needs of restaurateurs. The design by Erika Lagerbielke holds 5.7oz and is crafted to complement cocktails including Martini, Cosmopolitan and Manhattan. The piece pays homage to the stylish fictional detective, Nick Charles, and his wealthy wife, Nora, charactersied by American writer Dashiell Hammett in his famous novel The Thin Man. As the story goes, famous bartender Dale DeGroff was searching for a small cocktail glass and found this elegant style displayed, picked it up and began to call it Nick & Nora. www.orrefors.us
2. Modbar
Modbar Espresso AV
The result of years of collaborative research and development between Modbar and La Marzocco, the Espresso AV by Modbar is an espresso machine that blends sleek design with high performance. The under-counter solution serves to elevate the aesthetics of a workspace, creating a barrier-free interaction between guests and baristas. This technology gives professionals complete control and the ability to choose between multiple brewing modes, pulses, mass, or brew ratio to fine-tune the espresso volume. There is the option to set up one or two taps per module and the system features an easy-to-use lever with four programmable positions. www.modbar.com
3. Franke Coffee Systems
Mytico Vario Precision Foam
Franke Coffee Systems’ Precision Foam technology offers an innovative new approach to milk frothing. Designed for Mytico Vario, the system allows baristas to focus on engaging with customers while dispensing foam at the preferred consistency, temperature and volume, operating in tandem with the brewing process. This not only enhances the efficiency of service but maintains the theatrics that coffee drinkers have come to expect. In addition to foam directly from the Precision Foam spout, milk can be frothed traditionally using the automatic steam wand, allowing latte art to be created according to the preferences of hospitality teams. mytico.franke.coffee
4. Costa Nova Madeira Collection
Drawing inspiration from the natural world, Costa Nova’s Madeira collection features three vivid colours and a distinct crackled surface, echoing the effect of dappled light. Each piece is crafted with quality in mind and showcases unique handcrafted designs with a speckled reactive glaze. The line’s contemporary aesthetic is designed to suit modern dining spaces, offering a casual yet sophisticated atmosphere to hotels and restaurants looking to create memorable dining experiences. Madeira Collection’s ability to integrate with various décor styles while maintaining distinctiveness makes it a versatile addition to table settings.
www.costanovaprofessional.com
1. Vista Alegre Chef’s Collection
In designing its new line of plates for fine dining, Vista Alegre turned to those with the most discerning knowledge of this refined world: internationally renowned chefs. The outcome is a collection of distinct pieces that reflect the synergy between Vista Alegre’s hallmark design and the creativity and functionality required by world-class culinary masters. The project has already established a footprint in several countries, underscoring the company’s commitment to expanding its presence within the hospitality sector and solidifying its standing as a benchmark in innovation, elegance and quality, fostering a close relationship with hospitality experts. www.vistaalegre.com
2. Corby Hall
Onda Porcelain Dinnerware
Corby Hall, a family-owned business based in Randolph, New Jersey, has supplied the international hospitality industry with high-quality flatware, holloware and bright white porcelain dinnerware for the past 40 years. With designs ranging from traditional to contemporary, Corby Hall supplies F&B outlets that offer a full-service operation. A global distribution network coupled with production facilities in Europe and Asia allows for seamless service for both restaurant opening orders and re-supply. Onda, made for fine-dining and high volume with a white porcelain body and subtle organic design, is the latest dinnerware collection.
www.corbyhall.com
3. MyGlassStudio Super Slim Small Plates
MyGlassStudio’s latest collection is a sophisticated set of thin plates designed for those who appreciate the finer details. Each plate, crafted from ultra-thin 3mm durable glass, displays a sense of luxury and precision, and is designed for presenting gourmet dishes like sushi, desserts, amuse-bouches and petits fours. Available in finishes such as Milky White, Pure Gold and Licorice Black, these plates are not only functional but also serve as a statement piece to elevate table settings. A sleek, minimalist design enhances the presentation of culinary creations, while the interplay of light and texture adds a visually striking element to the dining experience.
www.myglassstudio.com
Turkish porcelain brand, Bonna, unveils the Albus Collection, a harmonious blend of elegance and simplicity. This refined collection brings a timeless aesthetic to professional dining settings. Characterised by its flat and oval forms, the Albus line is thoughtfully crafted for culinary leaders who seek to elevate their presentations. The pristine white porcelain serves as a blank canvas, enhancing the visual appeal of dishes. While offering hotel and restaurant chefs a large, open space where they can showcase creativity, each piece also ensures durability with a lifetime edgechipping guarantee, scratch resistance and a stackable design.
www.bonna.com.tr
4. Bonna Albus
Greener by the Plate
Ariane Fine Porcelain balances aesthetics, functionality and environmentally responsible design.
Sustainability is no longer an optional pursuit in hospitality – it’s reshaping the way hotels and restaurants operate, from kitchen to table. F&B professionals are now expected to align their decision-making with eco-conscious principles, seeking solutions that not only reduce environmental impact but enhance the guest experience. In response, Ariane Fine Porcelain has embraced sustainability in its approach to crafting tableware that expertly balances aesthetics, functionality and environmentally responsible design.
Since the European brand’s inception in 2014, ecological practices have been integral to its vision. Today, its state-of-the-art factory in India, powered in part by solar energy, stands as testament to this eco-centric philosophy. The journey begins with responsible sourcing – 50% of raw materials are locally procured, a figure set to rise to 70% by 2030 – and a move that reduces transportation emissions while also reinforcing support for local economies. The commitment to sustainability continues with rigorously tested, lead-free and cadmium-free tableware, and 99% recyclable packaging. Elsewhere, and the core of Ariane’s approach is a timeless and durable design ethos. By creating pieces built to last, the company
reduces the need for frequent replacements, helping professionals minimise waste while maintaining aesthetic excellence. Yet, sustainability extends beyond just the brand’s product lines. Strict waste management processes see 100% of green, non-fired materials and bisque reused. And in an upcoming phase, the brand plans to also repurpose glaze-fired waste, setting new benchmarks for waste reduction in the sector. The commitment to a greener future isn’t limited to internal practices either. Through consumer education initiatives, such as the Slow Fast collection, the company encourages restaurants to replace disposable packaging with elegant, reusable porcelain, reinforcing sustainable dining practices. Meanwhile, community engagement, including the donation of solar panels and water conservation tools, illustrates a deep investment in social responsibility. Looking ahead, Ariane’s investment in cuttingedge R&D reflects a longer-term vision. Ongoing development of energy-efficient infrared kilns, which consume less energy and produce minimal heat waste, showcases the brand’s forward-thinking approach to reducing its overall carbon footprint. www.arianefineporcelain.com
Arthur Price Stainless Steel Holloware
Established in 1902, Arthur Price is a British, family-owned cutlery and serviceware manufacturer that has served the hospitality industry for over a century, with clients including royal families, cruise ships, hotels and restaurants. The company has recently launched its new stainless-steel holloware range, comprising teaware, serviceware and barware. A decade in the making, the range can also be silver plated allowing the company to now have three price points and qualities of holloware product: stainless steel, silver-plated stainless steel and UK-manufactured silver plated. Since launching earlier this year, Arthur Price has received positive feedback and order volumes from its global customer base. With international supply capabilities, the manufacturer doesn’t require a minimum order, maintains high stock levels and offers super-fast turnaround.
www.arthurprice-hotelservices.com
Goodfellow & Goodfellow
Bamboo Amuse Bouche
The Bamboo Amuse Bouche is a novel approach to food presentation from Goodfellow & Goodfellow. The stoneware, created as a lid and base combination and finished in an eyecatching vert bronze glaze, is designed to surprise and delight the recipient. It is available in a range of colours and glazes.
At its core, the UK-based company offers a spectrum of food presentation solutions that range from a single oyster dish to the grandeur of high-end hotel cuisine.
Through tabletop innovations, Goodfellow & Goodfellow engages extensively with global hospitality partners, tailoring bespoke options and branding solutions – from creating cutting-edge tableware pieces to transforming dining concept ideas into reality. With a growing focus on international projects, the business leverages video conferencing for collaborative consultations, adeptly managing both individual and group hospitality ventures.
A London showroom in Little Portland Street is not only a place of tableware inspiration but also a project workshop for hospitality teams to consult and compose concepts surrounded by a plethora of products.
www.goodf.co.uk
2. Fine Dining & Living
3.
Pioli porcelain tableware, produced in Turkey, is designed to display quality and refined foods and provide an elegant tabletop solution for various hotel dining service areas. The brand introduces the Prisma collection, inspired by kaleidoscopic shapes with a seamless fusion of porcelain patterns and the richness of mosaic art in mind. Prisma blends the heritage of yesteryear with the sleekness of modernity, imparting distinctive charm. Every Prisma piece tells a story, transforming tables into a canvas of artistic expression. The collection includes items suited to a range of occasions including pasta and salad plates, tea and coffee cups. www.pioli.co
Belgian tableware brand Chic enriches its existing Perla collection with shades of burgundy and grey, in addition to classic, elegant white plates. The extended line in various colours offers reams of possibilities for creating a unique table setting by mixing shades and blending minimalist design with contemporary influences. Each piece is crafted using an innovative SiloxiHT formula which combines thinness, light transparency and durability. Chic embodies added value in hospitality driven by a passion for uniquely designed and elegant tableware with a subtle, timeless sophistication, while also embracing contemporary gastronomy. www.finediningandliving.eu
As the global demand for coffee continues to rise, so too does the interest in exploring innovative ways to enjoy it. Coffee-based drinks have evolved far beyond the traditional cup, with new trends emerging that cater to both adventurous palates and environmentally conscious consumers. For horeca partners seeking to provide guests with a truly sustainable coffee experience, Julius Meinl’s organic cascara tea products offer a solution. The name cascara comes from the Spanish word cáscara, meaning husk, which refers to the dried outer layer of the coffee cherry. In the past, cascara was often considered waste and discarded or composted, but its recent rise in popularity has opened new doors for both consumers and coffee farmers. By utilising this byproduct of coffee production, cascara offers an additional income stream for producers, making it a win-win for both the environment and the communities that grow coffee. What was once overlooked has now become a sought-after ingredient, and when brewed, cascara transforms into a sweet, fruity tisane with a unique flavour profile, offering the gentle caffeine kick of black tea with a refreshing twist. Known to have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, as well as being low in sugar, Julius Meinl’s premium cascara products are organic and fairtrade certified, with cascara sourced from Peru. It can be enjoyed as a hot or cold beverage.
www.juliusmeinl.com/for-business
1. Pioli Prisma
Chic – Perla
Julius Meinl Cascara Tea
Winter Wonders
Francéclat takes a deep-dive into the most noteworthy tableware trends for the cooler days ahead.
Winter’s arrival brings more than just a chill, it welcomes an evolution in the world of tableware, as French innovators Francéclat has unveiled with this season’s new styles. Showcasing the artistry poised to take centre stage during the colder months, the collective has set the scene for enchanting moments, special meals and memories with loved ones. From luxe materials to delicate designs, this is a curated look at what’s set to define l’art de la table as the year draws to a close.
Noble Emerald
A new take on festive elegance emerges as deep emerald tones meet opulent gold, creating a mood reminiscent of turn-of-thecentury grandeur. Lavish textiles, richly coloured glass and organic shapes are at the forefront, where nature’s influence is unmistakable. Think fine china adorned with intricate peacock
feathers in a mix of greens and deep blues from JL Coquet; nature-inspired ceramics from Bernardaud, and sumptuous cutlery from Jean Dubost all encapsulating this trend.
Crystal Clear
Crystalline structures take centre stage in winter 2024, with glass and metal intertwining to create a sparkling, silvery palette. Tables are transformed by intricate cut-glass patterns, reflective surfaces and geometric motifs etched into china. Multi-dimensional designs add depth, as Dior demonstrates with delicate, detailed plates, while glassware from Arc and Degrenne shimmers in the spotlight. www.franceclat-international.com
La Marzocco
New hospitality space in Shoreditch
Founded in 1927 by Giuseppe and Bruno Bambi, La Marzocco had its beginnings in Florence, Italy, birthplace of the Italian Renaissance and home to such geniuses as Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo and Brunelleschi. In 1939, it was La Marzocco that developed and patented the first coffee machine with a horizontal boiler, now an industry standard. Since the beginning, La Marzocco has been a pioneer in espresso machine craftsmanship, establishing itself as a brand synonymous with reliability, quality and continuous innovation in the coffee industry. The company later broadened its reach with Modbar, a cutting-edge addition to the luxury coffee equipment brand, which creates sleek, under-counter machines that foster closer interaction between baristas and guests. With modular, flexible designs, Modbar enhances a venue’s aesthetic and functional flow, allowing for an efficient and tailored coffee experience that complements various hospitality settings. La Marzocco’s commitment to nurturing the coffee community was marked by the
establishment of its UK branch in 2012, which sought to create a space where those passionate about the craft could connect. The initiative was further strengthened with the opening of a showroom in Leeds, serving as a regional hub for the northern coffee scene. Now, the company embarks on a new chapter with the unveiling of a hospitality centre at New North Place in Shoreditch, London, just steps away from its previous home. This new venue is envisioned as more than just a showroom and will serve as a meeting point for the coffee community, offering a welcoming environment for enthusiasts to come together, exchange ideas and celebrate coffee culture. Over the coming months, the space will host a series of events, including cuppings and a screening of documentary film The Rise of Espresso. For those outside of London, the company will host roadshows across the country and holds events at its Leeds showroom, bringing together home baristas, coffee lovers and hospitality professionals in one space. www.lamarzocco.com
Mogogo Cantine Display Cart
International design brand Mogogo unveils the Cantine Display Cart, a modern take on the classic market wagon. A fresh reinterpretation of the timeless cart, which has been used for transportation for centuries, this new product has been crafted for style and functionality and is made for both movement and showcasing goods to end users. While based on a traditional concept, Mogogo has updated the design and revives the product with modern materials and aesthetics to suit contemporary needs. Additionally, in line with Mogogo’s sustainability principles, the Cantine Display Cart features a lightweight yet durable bamboo structure complemented by decorative metal accents for a sleek finish. Designed to suit a variety of hospitality settings, the cart serves to enhance culinary presentations and helps create a unique atmosphere for a variety of occasions.
www.mogogo-buffet.com
Established in 2014, Istanbul-based design brand Nude creates contemporary glassware made for modern living. Each collection is crafted with simplicity in mind, made up of crystalline glassware for the retail and service industries. Now, Nude Glass presents the Islands collection, a refined range of whisky and beer glasses that merge aesthetic appeal with practical design. Expertly handcrafted from lead-free crystal, each glass in the collection embodies a minimalist elegance with a subtly flared rim that guides the liquid toward the tip of the tongue and enriches the tasting experience by drawing out complex flavours.
The tulip-shaped design, characterised by its broad base and narrow mouth, further enhances the olfactory experience. This thoughtful construction helps concentrate aromas while reducing the dissipation of fumes. The collection offers three variations of whisky glasses: tall, medium and short, each catering to different preferences. Complementing this range, the collection also introduces a new beer glass that carries the same stylishly distinctive silhouette.
www.nudeglass.com
John Jenkins Havana
British glassware manufacturer John Jenkins presents Havana, a collection of handmade cocktail glasses comprising four distinct shapes: a straight-sided glass for either a cocktail or water; a balloon shape for cocktails; a flared version for Martinis, and finally, a traditional shape for cocktails or sake. John Jenkins is known for its diverse and extensive range of both handmade and machine-made glassware that runs the gamut from wine and cocktail glasses to classic tumblers, all of which are available for immediate delivery. The company also has an in-house design department that can create bespoke pieces and exclusive patters to suit specific requirements. Each pattern in the portfolio benefits from the latest advancements in glass-making technology, which are implemented to enhance the product’s clarity, durability and scratch-resistance.
www.johnjenkins.co.uk
Nude Glass Islands Collection
XLBoom Rondo
Founded by Geert-Jan Van Cauwelaert and Ann De Cock in 1997, Belgian brand XLBoom delivers elegant pieces designed to elevate both indoor and outdoor settings. The Antwerp-based company maintains its commitment to craftsmanship through a process that ensures each item is handmade from start to finish, with all pieces brought to life in one of its international atelier spaces. XLBoom’s mission is to produce objects that in addition to fulfilling a functional need, also evoke intense emotions. This corporate philosophy is encapsulated by the Rondo collection. Envisioned by the design studio Sascha Sartory, the range spans multiple different pieces including a stainless-steel wine chiller designed to keep drinks at the perfect temperature. The collection also comprises a statement tray that can be used to display wine and ice buckets with the option to stack two different sizes, and a generously proportioned ice bucket that comes in three different colours and two sizes. A pair of tongs completes the series which is available in three different finishes: copper, black, and pure stainless steel. XLBoom’s extensive collections are available to view by appointment at its European showroom near Antwerp. www.xlboom.com
Pordamsa Gastro Bowls
Pordamsa’s designs have earned a place alongside the culinary creations of some of the world’s most renowned chefs, offering not only a visually striking aesthetic but also practical, creative solutions for even the most demanding hotel design projects. Since its founding in 1975, in La Bisbal d’Empordà, Girona, this family-run business has been driven by a passion for craftsmanship, blending inspiration, creativity and technique.
Among its creations is the Gastro Bowls collection, which features two sizes of meticulously hand-carved bowls, each a unique expression of nature’s beauty. These bowls are crafted from whole pieces of wood and shaped by hand, one-by-one. In a world where uniformity often dominates, these pieces stand apart as singular works of art, created with a respect for nature in its purest form. The wood’s natural patterns and textures are preserved and highlighted, turning each bowl into an unrepeatable masterpiece. Every curve and line is testament to the tree’s origin, fusing art and nature into an everyday object that elevates the dining experience. These bowls embody a perfect balance of craftsmanship and natural beauty, elevating them beyond just practical tableware.
www.pordamsa.com
Rona2Serve
Linea Umana
Maurizio Filippi, named Best Italian Sommelier by AIS in 2016, has poured his extensive expertise as both a sommelier and restaurateur into crafting a collection that balances elegance with practicality. Every curve and detail of these glasses has been carefully considered resulting in soft lines that enhance the wine-drinking experience. At the same time, Filippi has kept the needs of professional buyers in mind, ensuring the products are as functional as they are beautiful. The Linea Umana collection is intentionally streamlined, featuring only six wine glasses and two water glasses. Carefully chosen designs can accommodate the wide array of wines produced globally. Although machine-made for consistency and durability, these glasses retain the look and feel of handcrafted items and provide the best of both worlds: the reliability of modern manufacturing paired with the artistry of traditional craftsmanship.
www.rona.glass
Steelite International Distinction and Performance
Steelite International has been a major player in the field of tabletop, buffet and lighting solutions since its establishment in 1982. Dedicated to pushing the boundaries of technology while prioritising sustainability, Steelite caters to over 140 countries with a commitment to delivering industry-leading quality, serviceability, and innovation in the face of evolving customer tastes. Steelite’s philosophy of ‘made for life’ is woven into every piece in its Performance and Distinction collections. These product lines embody the company’s commitment to creating long-lasting, functional products that reflect contemporary design trends. The Distinction collection, which includes the Willow series, ensures elegance and style with body strength for lasting durability. Meanwhile, the Performance collection, featuring the popular Craft series, comprises smart, functional and affordable pieces in a variety of designs. Steelite’s production facilities in England underscore the company’s dedication to quality craftsmanship. Whether in a fine-dining setting or a casual restaurant, Steelite’s products are designed to stand the test of time and are backed by a lifetime edge chip warranty.
www.steelite.com
Govert Deketh General Manager
London Marriott Hotel County Hall
A London General Manager ruminates on the finer details that enhance guest experience and lead to favourable reviews, with Nespresso Professional topping the list of essentials.
What kind of atmosphere do you aim to create as guests arrive?
At London Marriott Hotel County Hall, we aim to convey warmth, elegance and attentiveness the moment guests step through the doors. We want them to feel welcomed, valued and at ease, with a sense of anticipation for their stay. The space is designed to exude refined luxury while remaining approachable, inviting guests to relax and enjoy their surroundings. Every detail, from the décor to the service, is crafted to leave a lasting impression, fostering a connection to the hotel that resonates in the positive reviews guests share after their visit.
Guests often read reviews before making a booking – is there a direct link between the guest experience you offer and the reviews you receive?
Absolutely. In hospitality, every touchpoint – from the moment guests enter the property to their departure – shapes the perception of their stay. If we deliver a seamless, thoughtful, and memorable experience, it naturally leads to positive reviews. Guests are quick to share when they feel genuinely valued, and this feedback plays a critical role in influencing future bookings. Reviews serve as a powerful indicator of our success and offer insights into areas for continuous improvement, ensuring we consistently exceed expectations and maintain a high standard of service.
What role does coffee play in contributing to positive reviews?
It plays a significant role in enhancing the overall guest experience, as it’s often intertwined with moments of relaxation, focus and connection. Whether it’s the first cup in the morning, a midday pick-me-up or a leisurely coffee in the lounge, offering high-quality coffee adds a sense of care and comfort to a stay. When guests enjoy thoughtful touches like excellent coffee, it elevates their perception of the hotel’s attention to detail. These moments contribute to favourable reviews, where guests frequently mention small but memorable aspects that made their experience feel special.
Why have you partnered with Nespresso Professional in the creation of those moments in your venues?
To ensure that the coffee experience across all areas of our hotel consistently meet the highest standards of quality and convenience. Nespresso’s commitment to delivering rich, flavourful coffee effortlessly aligns perfectly with our goal of providing seamless guest experiences. With Nespresso Professional, we can offer the same premium coffee in every corner of the property, from guest rooms to meeting spaces, creating memorable moments without compromising on quality. This consistency adds a sense of refinement and care that our guests appreciate, enhancing their overall experience, which translates into positive reviews highlighting these thoughtful details.
Does that make coffee an invaluable investment in guest experience?
Yes, because it enhances moments, creating a sense of luxury and care that resonates with our guests. Offering high-quality coffee is a simple yet impactful gesture that reflects our commitment to excellence. By investing in premium coffee, we create memorable experiences, which lead to positive reviews. This attention to the finer details helps to build loyalty, while positioning our hotel as a destination that prioritises guest satisfaction. www.nespresso.com
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Mandalay Bay transports guests to a Las Vegasstyle English country golf club, where pitch-and-putt meets dynamic dining for an immersive experience.
Experiential leisure is hitting a hole-in-one as a sector, and now it’s making its way into hotels too. In an innovative partnership, the acclaimed crazy golf brand Swingers is teaming up with Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino to introduce its first ever hotel-based venture. Building on outposts in New York and Washington DC, the soon-to-open Swingers Las Vegas offers a multi-sensory extravaganza that combines 36 holes of entertaining match play with dynamic dining, inventive cocktails and live DJs.
Occupying a sprawling 40,000ft 2 space, the venue is set to elevate the hotel’s leisure facilities, boasting a multi-level experience where guests can tee-off among an English country golf club-inspired setting, reimagined through a bigger-is-better Vegas lens. Notable design features include a traditional country
house façade with portico terrace, putting greens surrounded by landscaped gardens and LED hotair balloons that seemingly float up above. The restaurants and bars meanwhile are adorned with woodland wallcoverings and whimsical beehivestyle lighting, reinforcing the outdoors nature of the game.
Conceptualised by Zachary Pulman Design Studio, renowned for its expertise in competitive socialising environments, the design captures the decadent spirit of the Roaring Twenties. “This project isn’t just about crazy golf; it’s about crafting an immersive environment that transports guests to another era,” explains founder Zachary Pulman. “Drawing from the allure of the 1920s, Swingers Las Vegas is set to be a fully engaging and theatrical experience for guests. We can’t wait to see it in action!”
