Farm and Ranch — Summer 2014 by MonettTimes

A LOOK AT BARRY/LAWRENCE COUNTY AGRICULTURE | SUMMER 2014

Farm and Ranch

TOP STORY: WELL-TRAINED HORSES PROVIDE SMOOTH RIDE — Page 3 COVER: FROM THE FARM TO TABLES IN 2 COUNTIES — Page 5 MAN’S CO-OP WORK STILL REWARDING AFTER 40 YEARS — Page 9

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The Monett Times • Cassville Democrat

Page 2 • Summer 2014 | Farm and Ranch

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Cassville Democrat • The Monett Times

Farm and Ranch | Summer 2014 • Page 3

Well-trained horses provide smooth ride

Rough and ready shows soft hand when training horses

BY SHERRY TUCKER oy Creed has endured a lot of rough riding – but not all on the back of a horse. Even though he has been around horses since he was 10 or 12 years old, he once got his thrills riding fast on a dirt-bike touring motocross events. “I was born and raised in Monett, and I loved racing, and I loved motorcycles,” said Roy. While racing on the motocross circuit, Roy also became an avid arm wrestler. He worked hard, rode fast and pushed his body to the max, “I would do 600 pushups daily.” He traveled the country competing and winning races and competitions, all while also working full-time as a sanitation manager for Tyson. Then his future in racing took a turn, “I hurt my wrist, and it hurt me to ride bikes, and I lost the grip I needed.” Roy then turned his attention to horses, and calf roping in the late 70s. “I met Roy Durfee, he is a true cowboy, he trained horses all his life. We roped and rodeo-ed together, and he helped me, he taught me more than anyone else about horses, ever.” Roy credits Durfee with pointing him in the right direction with training his own horses. “Durfee taught me to train horses, cutting, riding, and he just got me on the right track. He taught me the concept of horses.” “It takes a lot to understand the mechanics of a horse. I like to train my own horses. It’s the only way to train them the way you want them. Because, once a horse or mule has created a bad habit, it’s almost impossible to break it – they always want to go back to that bad habit.” Roy believes in patience and taking the time necessary to train each horse.

On his ranch north of Verona, Roy holds bull-riding and calf-hoping competitions from October thru April. Sherry Tucker “I have a program that I put all my horses through when I train them. I can have a horse trained in 30-60 days, but to get them seasoned it takes 1-4 years.” Roy not only trains them, but fits each horse in a custom saddle and bit. In horse training, the mouth bit plays an important role in training the horse, “A horse is very sensitive. How heavy is a fly? A horse can feel a fly land on it, and can feel even the gentlest move of a bit in its mouth.” Once Roy has trained a horse, it can be led by just a halter by slight movements of

the reins, or a voice command. Most of his saddles are built in Arkansas or Oklahoma, and Roy measures and fabricates most of the custom bits for his horses. Roy built a large arena in 1999 from an existing barn on his farm north of Verona. From October to April, Roy, with help from his girlfriend, Karen Rogers, host bull-riding and calf roping competitions monthly. “We usually have 750-1000 people here, and have as many as 80-100 bull-riders a night. We start with pee-wees that

ride calves, and have juniors and an open division too,” said Roy. “Steve and Kay Hayworth, of East Purdy, do a great job at providing bulls.” Karen explained, “The competitors pay each time, and we keep track of points for each event and during the finals at the end of the season, we give out trophies, coats, buckles, and other prizes each year in all the divisions.” Though Roy has endured physical injuries, and even won a battle again esophageal cancer in 2008-2009, he CONTINUED ON PAGE 19

The Monett Times â&#x20AC;˘ Cassville Democrat

Page 4 â&#x20AC;˘ Summer 2014 | Farm and Ranch

Gene Halbert also grows and sells ornamental plants and herbs as well as the usual produce. Steve Chapman

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Cassville Democrat • The Monett Times

Farm and Ranch | Summer 2014 • Page 5

Fresh from the farm to tables in 2 counties Local grower enjoys providing fresh produce at farmers’ markets

BY STEVE CHAPMAN f you have ever frequented the farmers’ markets in Purdy or Monett, chances are you have come across Gene Halbert. A retired trucker and former city employee for Monett, Halbert grows asparagus, tomatoes, beans and squash on his four-acre spread near Purdy. Halbert, who has been a regular vendor at farmers’ markets for four years now, says his taste for farm-fresh vegetables is what led him to start selling produce. “It’s something I’ve always enjoyed myself. I like eating fresh produce and I enjoy growing it for people, and I try to bring as big of a selection as I can to people and provide a variety to choose from.” While Halbert does grow a lot of his own stock, he also sells produce he gets from other vendors. However, he only buys from those who grow produce in Missouri. “Everything that I bring in from other areas is from Missouri,” he said. “I get peaches from Campbell, Missouri, and bring in Amish grown tomatoes from Tipton, Missouri; and I bring sweet corn from Granby.” In addition to produce, Halbert also sells garden plants such as tomatoes, squash and peppers for those who wish to grow their own vegetables. Additionally, he also sells herbs and ornamental plants as well. “I always try to bring a few herbs; I’ve got basil, rosemary, mint, thyme, all kinds of herbs. And I also try to bring along a few ornamental things like wave petunias, and a few flowering annuals.” Halbert typically sells his produce in Mt. Vernon on Wednesdays from 8 a.m. to noon in the Missouri Rehab Center parking lot and on Saturdays in

Gene Halbert sells local produce that he has both grown and traded for throughout Barry and Lawrence counties. Steve Chapman the Mt. Vernon town square.“This is a regular Wednesday and Saturday thing here in Mount Vernon, and then I go to Purdy when I have a chance.” According to Halbert, he and other vendors do a lot of business on Saturdays. “I think the Mount Vernon market here is pretty popular; we have a lot of regular customers, especially on Saturdays down on the square, and we have several more vendors who are there on Saturday, so there’s more selection and a lot more customers as well.” When Halbert sells goods in Purdy, he sets up shop in the parking lot of the gas station at the intersection of Highway 37 and Highway C. At around the end of June, he tries to spend more time in Purdy. “In the spring, when it’s more

plants and flowers, I usually try to sell Sundays in Purdy, and after the end of June or so, when I start getting summer produce like peaches and melons; I try to be there on Thursdays and Sundays.” Halbert also sells produce in Monett, though usually closer to autumn. In Monett he sells items that are more decorative, for fall. “Later in the season, I’ll go to Monett when I have ornamental stuff like pumpkins, mums, and that kind of stuff,” he said. Produce sold at a farmers’ market might cost more than what can be bought at a grocery store, so why should anyone shop at a farmers’ market? According to Halbert, the reason is the quality. “I think you’re going to get a fresher product, and a lot of the items that

you’ll get at a farmers market just have more flavor because they’re ripened naturally as opposed to being ripened in transit while they’re being shipped over a long distance; so you get a better tasting product than you would compared to what you get at a grocery store.” Halbert also believes it is beneficial to shop at farmers’ markets repeatedly because it increases shoppers’ chances to find new products. “Everybody ought to come down and check out the farmers market because the variety changes every week and we’ve got different vendors that come at different times; it’s always a good place to look for farm-fresh eggs and all kinds of locally grown produce and every thing’s always made or produced here in Missouri; it’s all good, local, fresh produce.”

The Monett Times â&#x20AC;˘ Cassville Democrat

Page 6 â&#x20AC;˘ Summer 2014 | Farm and Ranch

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Cassville Democrat • The Monett Times

Farm and Ranch | Summer 2014 • Page 7

Natural repellent solutions for the home gardener BY DORI THOMAS It’s a dilemma that has plagued gardeners, growers and farmer for centuries; how to co-exist with nature and still have a beautiful bountiful yield. Through the recent decades, many of our food sources have become very industrialized, and therefore, drastic measures have been utilized to stay one step ahead of some of nature’s cruelest creatures. Deer, raccoons and insects are just a few of today’s troublesome neighbors. Gardening and co-existing with these wild creatures, large and small, takes some ingenuity and persistence. And to do it naturally, takes just a little extra effort with a huge payoff. Natural pest control is less expensive than buying and applying pesticides, and it is safer for your garden and lawn, as well as your family, pets, the environment and the natural wildlife. Each year North American homes use approximately 136 million pounds of pesticides on lawns and gardens. In fact, homeowners use about three times the amount of pesticides as farmers. Most wildlife pest poisonings, and most surface water contamination from pesticides, come from single-family homes. There are a few tried-and-true natural remedies that all gardeners and homeowners should know. Most have heard that boiling hot water poured on weeds will instantly kill them, and natural, diatomaceous earth will help with certain pests. But did you know that many kitchen pantry items such as vinegar, baking soda, cayenne pepper, and even dishwashing liquid, are also wonderful, safe and natural pest control and plant disease remedies? Check the utility drawer for things like adhesive tape and copper strips, which are very useful for removing and deterring pests. Essential oils, herbs and garlic can be a growers best friend. Even recycling glass bottles can keep the creepy crawlers out of your yard and garden. Economical and easy, these homemade recipes, tricks and tips will help your garden and lawn be pest and disease free. Without chemical pesticides our homegrown food can be safer and our

lawns harmless for families, friends and pets to enjoy. Look to nature for solutions to problems, nature is always willing to comply and supplies us with many answers.

Vinegar Pour white or cider vinegar on weeds or add clove or cinnamon essential oil to vinegar to kill poison ivy. Apply once per week to 10 days destroy the plants root system.

Essential Oils and Herbs Mix a few drops in 10 oz. distilled water and spray on foliage. Cedarwood: deter snails and slugs Clove: deter deer Peppermint: deters ants, aphids, caterpillars, flies, moths, bean beetles and mice. Lemongrass, Rosemary, Melaleuca, Myrtle, Citronella and Lavadin blend: deter carrot flies, fleas, gnats, mosquitoes, nemotodes and ticks. Plant basil, sage, lavender, rosemary and mint in your garden to help fight harmful leafhoppers, aphids, cabbage loopers, mites, cucumber beetles and other pests. Make a herb tea, mix with a few drops of liquid soap, shake and spray on foliage.

Garlic Water Pesticide/Fungicide: Blend one small head of garlic until smooth, add two cups water, then pulse a few times. Store in a dark place, in a covered glass container for one day. Strain off all solids, and dilute with more water until you have a gallon of solution. Spray tops and bottom of each leaf in the infested area once a week until problem ceases. Apply once every two weeks or after it rains as a preventative. Apply to vegetable, fruit, ornamental and indoor plant foliage to treat and prevent powdery mildew, to deter aphids, beetles, whiteflies, cabbage worms, spider mites, moths, ants and termites. Soak infected soil thoroughly once a week for elimination of fungus gnats

Fungus gnats are small, dark, short-lived flies, whose larvae feed on plant roots or fungi and aid in the decomposition of organic matter. or nematodes. Add one jalapeno or one tablespoon cayenne pepper to blender to deter mice, rats, deer and elk. To prevent voles, pour the solution around garden plants every two weeks.

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Dislodge aphids, mites and spittlebug nymphs with a strong blast of water or use adhesive tape to remove the pests from the plant leaves. Simply wrap a long piece of tape around your fingers, sticky side out, and blot off the bugs.

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Wrap inexpensive, thin copper (the kind found in craft stores) around pots, plants and trees to create a protective barrier by giving slugs and snails a shock. Pine needles, crushed egg shells and coffee grounds form a scratchy barrier. Be sure to reapply after a rain. The better you take care of your garden and lawn, the better your garden and lawn will take care of you.

The Monett Times • Cassville Democrat

Page 8 • Summer 2014 | Farm and Ranch

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Cassville Democrat • The Monett Times

Farm and Ranch | Summer 2014 • Page 9

Man’s work at co-op still rewarding after 40 years

John Marney has been on the job since 1974, has seen many changes BY STEVE CHAPMAN ccording to information from the Bureau of Labor’s website, most people can expect to hold about 11 to 12 jobs in their lifetime. John Marney has spent the last 40 years holding only one. Marney was hired as general manager of Barry County Farmers’ Co-op, located in Exeter, in 1974. He’s been general manager ever since. Over the last 40 years, Marney has seen numerous changes at the Co-op. “When I came, we had a lot of small dairies,” Marney said, “and we got a fertilizer business in the late ‘70s, and mainly we sold feed and fertilizer to that point, and in ’85, we put the Co-op at Stark City, together with Barry County, here in Exeter, and made it all one company. “And when we did that, we expanded into the propane business. The propane has grown to be the bigger part of our business over the years, and it continues to be so. When the broilers came in the late ‘80s and early ‘90s, that’s when our propane business really grew. We phased the bulk feed business out in the ‘80s and concentrated on propane and fertilizer.” Today, the Co-op sells propane, diesel, bag feed, fertilizer and other farm supplies to its members. Marney has about 15 employees he supervises, and he, in turn, is supervised by a seven-member board of directors whom are elected by Co-op members. His job is easier now, but Marney still remembers some of the challenges the Co-op faced when he first came on board. It was a struggle,” he said. “The Co-op was young…we were still trying to get on our feet and it’s just grown

slowly over all the years.” So, how did the Co-op grow to over a thousand members? According to Marney, the answer is actually quite simple. “Just be efficient, live within your means and don’t spend more money than you’ve got.” While many people might suffer from burnout after so many years, Marney still enjoys his job. He credits his longevity in part to good employers. “I’ve always had a good board to work for,” he said, “and you know, 40 years is a long time for this kind of a job. So you do have to have a good board to work with or things wouldn’t work that well for that long.” So, what are Marney’s future plans? Retirement isn’t one of them; at least, not yet. “I’m going to work as long as I feel good,” he said, “and the board’s willing to have me. But I’m getting there; I’m going to have to give it up one of these days.” Though Marney answers directly to the board, he explains the Co-op ultimately belongs to its customers, and being a customer of the Co-op comes with certain advantages. “We’re an independent Co-op; we’re owned by the farmers. We have about a thousand members and about half of those are active members that we do business with all the time. We pay our profits back to our members at the end of each year. “This year we’re going to pay out nearly $600,000 in patronage to members that we did business with the last year and then we’ll retire about $150,000 of members’ equity; so this year were going to pay out $730,000 back to members. If we have a good year, then we pay back enough to make a difference.” How much each individual member gets back is based on what he or she purchases from the Co-op. “It depends on the product that they buy. We have three different categories; we have propane, fertilizer and then miscellaneous… and we pay different percents on each commodity depending on our profits in each area.”

Throughout his 40 years as manager, Marney has witnessed changes in the local agricultural economy. Steve Chapman Though the Co-op is based in Barry County, Marney explains a farmer doesn’t have to reside in the county to become a member. “You can earn your membership by doing business here,” Marney said. “So we’ve got members in probably four or five counties and some members in Arkansas. You can be anywhere; it’s

not a closed membership.” As for Marney, he is glad to be part of the Barry County Farmers’ Co-op. “I’m just proud of the progress the Co-op has made over the years. And we’ve grown and been a part of the community. We live in a great community; a lot of good people around. It’s a pleasure to work here.”

The Monett Times • Cassville Democrat

Page 10 • Summer 2014 | Farm and Ranch

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Cassville Democrat • The Monett Times

Farm and Ranch | Summer 2014 • Page 11

A new pest has shown itself in southwest Missouri BY NAHSHON BISHOP Recently, a new pest has been discovered across the state of Missouri that is cause for concern for small-scale home horticulturalists and commercial producers alike. The Spotted Wing Drosophila (SWD), which is an invasive fruit fly, was found in Mt. Vernon, Missouri, at the Southwest Research Center in 2013. The insect has also been positively identified and consistently trapped in Northwest Arkansas and Southeast Kansas, which means that it is safe to assume that fruit growers in Barry County should be mindful of this pest throughout the 2014 growing season.

Crops Most Affected Spotted Wing Drosophila (SWD) attacks most small fruit crops grown in southwest Missouri. The crops at greatest risk are raspberries, blackberries, blueberries and grapes. Stone fruits such as cherry, nectarine and peach are also susceptible to larval infestation. At this time, tomatoes are listed as fruit susceptible to infestation. Particularly, grape or cherry tomatoes are cause for concern because of their thinner skin, which makes them more easily accessible to the female SWD. Wild hosts include pokeweed, elderberries, autumn olive, crabapple,

mulberries, Amur honeysuckle and wild grapes. These wild hosts allow significant numbers of this pest to build in early to mid-spring and then transition to fruit crops grown for sale or personal consumption in late spring with continuing chances for infestation until the first fall freeze.

Physiology SWD are fruit flies, but, unlike other fruit flies, this particular pest has the ability to attack sound ripening fruit. Adult male flies are 2-3 mm long and may be seen on the outside of fruit. The male SWD has two distinctive black spots on the tips

of their wings (females do not have these wing spots); the name “Spotted Wing Drosophila” is derived from these two dark spots. Male flies also have two dark bands around their forelegs. The female SWD has two serrated appendages called ovipositors that give her the unique ability to cut into the outside of healthy, under-ripe fruit, and successfully deposit eggs. The ovipositor present on the female is the primary cause for concern for individuals growing fruit in southwest Missouri. Traditionally, native species of fruit fly only feed on overripe or compromised fruit, because of CONTINUED ON PAGE 19

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The Monett Times • Cassville Democrat

Page 12 • Summer 2014 | Farm and Ranch

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Cassville Democrat • The Monett Times

Farm and Ranch | Summer 2014 • Page 13

‘Ask a Master Gardener’

BY ANGELA JONES Q: Why do they say to sprinkle beans with inoculants before planting, and is it necessary? A: Legumes grow best and produce more net nitrogen if inoculated with a special bacteria culture. Plants take nitrogen in from the air, but bacteria, which form nodules on the roots of legumes such as peas, beans, peanuts, lentils, vetch, Austrian peas, cowpeas, garbanzo beans, alfalfa and clover, are the creatures actually responsible for “fixing” the nitrogen into a form available to the plant. Inoculants are especially important when planting one of these crops for the first time. These cultures are plant specific, so be sure to select the correct one for your crop. Put seed in container and mix in few drops of water; just enough to lightly moisten seeds. Add inoculants and mix until all seeds are coated. You may also sprinkle inoculants directly in the

furrow along with seeds using about 1 teaspoon every 2 feet of row. You will need to plant and cover immediately. Bacteria will die if exposed to heat and sun. Storage: Keep cool as possible; between 34 and 70 degrees F is best. Do not expose to extreme heat or direct sunlight. Do not leave outside exposed to the elements or allow freezing and thawing repeatedly. Caution: Avoid breathing dust. Fungal Inoculants Fungi (Mycorrhizae) are absolutely necessary for your garden’s health; their networks are an essential part of any healthy garden soil. They will harmonize with the plant’s root system and greatly expand the surface area of the root mass. They improve most plants’ growth and vigor. They also promote environmental resistance to disease, pests, heat and drought through their critical role in nutrient

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cycling, mediating plant stress and protecting against transplant shock. Storage: The fungi are pretty hardy. Nevertheless, it is important to keep these inoculants dry. Excessive heat or cold is never of benefit. Q: How do you eradicate a wild morning glory problem in the garden? A: Wild morning glory is also known as creeping jenny and several other names not used in polite circles. Do not confuse wild morning glory with the annual morning glory vines that are easily controlled and bloom beautifully all summer. Wild morning glory grows in almost every part of the world and is one of nature’s most smothering, persistent plants with roots penetrating the soil to a depth of eight feet or more. In addition to its tenacious perennial nature, seeds are produced each year that may germi-

nate over a 20-year period or more. Wild morning glory is a tough problem in your yard, but you can do several things to battle the invader: 1. Some research has established that by removing the top growth every 12 to 14 days the plant will deplete its food reserves in the root system without a recharging effect from photosynthesis. This means that pulling or cutting the stems at ground level every two weeks, during the growing season, will significantly reduce wild morning glory vigor. It may take a season or two of work to eliminate morning glory in this manner. There is no need to dig up the entire plant; you’ll never get all the roots anyway. Simply use a push-pull hoe and slice off the tops just below ground level; but you must do it regularly or the plant will have a chance to rejuvenate itself. 2. Wild morning glory will not grow CONTINUED ON PAGE 15

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The Monett Times • Cassville Democrat

Page 14 • Summer 2014 | Farm and Ranch

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Cassville Democrat • The Monett Times

Farm and Ranch | Summer 2014 • Page 15

Gardener: Roundup recommended to kill broadleaf and other grassy plants

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 13

through a black plastic sheet. However, it will find and escape through any holes that develop within the plastic and around the edges. Black plastic should be considered in non crop areas or with widely spaced plants. Shrubs, trees, or vegetables like squash, tomatoes, or melons can be planted through small holes in the plastic. Pull the wild morning glory that emerges through the planting hole. 3. Bark and other organic mulches are not a solution to wild morning glory control because it will emerge through several feet of sawdust, bark or shavings. Chemical Solutions: It would be much to your advantage if plants and wild morning glory were not combined. This is especially true of perennial plants such as raspberries, strawberries, grapes, ornamental shrubs, and flower plantings. Delay planting, to get control of wild morning glory, if that option is available to you. Glyphosate (Killzall, Roundup)

is the chemical of first choice. It is non-selective and kills all broadleaf and grassy plants. Roundup has no “carry-over effect” in the soil: it becomes inactive when it comes in contact with soil particles. Roundup must be sprayed directly on green, living, “dust-free” leaves. Roundup will not harm plants that have not been directly sprayed with the herbicide. Once sprayed on leaves, it travels deep within the plant into the root system. The biggest drawback of using Roundup is the fact that it takes up to two weeks for plants to die, since the chemical is traveling throughout the plant. However, the wait is worth it when controlling morning glory because you are trying to kill the entire root system. Roundup is environmentally friendly and has low human toxicity, so it is relatively safe to use. Finale is another product that kills wild morning glory. It is similar to Roundup in that it is non-selective: it kills anything it is sprayed on. Finale

kills plants in a similar fashion to Roundup; it is absorbed by the leaf and then travels within the plant. Finale kills weeds much faster than Roundup does, but finale does not travel as deeply into the root system as Roundup does. Finale is a good chemical to control young morning glory plants that have not had a chance to develop a deep root system. 2, 4-D and Trimec are two other homeowner chemicals that can provide control of wild morning glory if used correctly. These chemicals are commonly found in Weed Beater, Weed B Gone, Weedout, Lawn Weed Killer and many other brands of lawn weed killers. These chemicals will kill broadleaf weeds and plants but they will not kill grass-type weeds. These herbicides are somewhat soil active, which means they can be absorbed by the root systems. Be Selective – careful spraying of wild morning glory plants among desirable plants will help reduce its presence. Herbicides will

affect any green-growing vegetation so keep them off plant foliage. Tank Sprayers, trigger spray bottles are good ways to apply the weed killers. Q: Can I grow tomatoes in the same place every year? A: Tomatoes are probably the most labor-intensive vegetable crop grown in Missouri. Tomatoes require hand-labor operations such as staking or trellising, pruning, tying, fertilization, cultivation, irrigation and harvesting. Tomatoes are subject to a number of diseases that can limit yield and reduce fruit quality. Most authorities recommend rotating tomatoes and other crops in the garden on a four-year cycle. This means not to grow the same crop (or a crop in the same family) in the same place more often than every forth year. Tomato, pepper, eggplant and potato all belong to the same plant family. Crop rotation helps to prevent the build-up of disease inoculums in CONTINUED ON PAGE 17

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The Monett Times • Cassville Democrat

Page 16 • Summer 2014 | Farm and Ranch

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Cassville Democrat • The Monett Times

Farm and Ranch | Summer 2014 • Page 17

Gardener: Reader wonders how to eliminate black spots on their roses

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 15

the area immediately surrounding the tomato plant. Q: How can I get my soil tested? A: University of Missouri Extension Offices can take your samples, however the testing of soil takes place in Columbia, Missouri, in the soil and plant testing lab on the University of Missouri campus. There is an extension office in every county, however each county has different pricing, please call your local Extension office for exact pricing for soil samples. Keep in mind that there are 114 counties in Missouri with Extension offices, so the length of time to get your results will vary; most are completed within 7 to 10 working days. Q: When should I divide my Iris? A: Both clump forming irises and those with rhizomes (fleshy stems at soil level) can be divided. Irises that are grown from bulbs are not suitable for division. Rhizomatous irises (having fleshy stems at soil level) are divided just after flowering. Clump forming irises are divided in early autumn or early spring. Irises can be kept healthy and full of flowers by dividing clumps before they get congested. This is also a good way to increase stocks of plants. Q: How do I get rid of black spots on my roses? A: Controlling black spot on roses is crucial to any rose grower. Black spot is a fungal disease characterized by black spots on the upper side of leaves. Tending to occur in warm, wet weather, usually during wet summers, the leaves of infected roses turn yellow and fall off. This weakens the plant by making it more susceptible to other diseases or opening it up to injury for the next winter. The organism responsible for black spot spreads quickly and can move from plant to plant if proper care is not taken. Plant black spot resistant roses, many beautiful rose varieties are

resistant to the disease and fungi. Control black spot by not planting varieties that are prone to it. A specific list of disease resistant roses is online, and most nurseries likely have their own list. Roses vary by region, so it’s a good practice to do a local check of the varieties that grow best on your area. Choose rose-growing locations carefully. The best tactic to control black spot is to plant roses in locations that benefit the rose and thwart fungus. Roses should get 6-8 hours of sunlight daily. Morning sunshine is best: it quickly dries night time dew. Locations should get plenty of air circulation. Space rose bushes far enough apart to allow for good circulation and prune out some of the branches in the center if need be to allow ample air circulation. Prepare the soil well to ensure that it is rich in broken down organic matter and that it drains well. Well rotted compost is a good soil enhancer. Water roses appropriately. Excess moisture encourages black spot, so it is important to water and care and not to over water roses. When its cooler, water weekly with a deep soak at the base. For hot, dry weather, more frequent watering will be required, without wetting the leaves. Use of soaker hoses or drip irrigation at the roots for frequent watering. Water roses only in the morning. Be careful when watering black spot spores gets moved by splashing water. That’s why soaker hoses are encouraged. Prune regularly to remove any weak or damaged branches and leaves. Q: What is the best mulch? A: Most garden centers are going to try and sell you some kind of wood mulch: ‘triple premium shredded bark’, root mulch or dyed mulches, which may contain chipped-up pallets, and old pressure treated wood, and construction debris. They can be harmful to your landscape and can cause discoloration of your homes siding or brick, and can attract other pests. The best mulch is compost;

high-quality bulk compost (for delivery) and premium, branded, bagged compost products for smaller jobs. I recommend staying away from retail stores; if you choose to go that route, read the bags carefully, try to use natural wood mulches or compost. There are a few places in Springfield that you can buy quality compost by the truckload. I am on staff at the Botanical Center, and we use McMullen Landscape Center in Springfield and there is Pitchfork Landscape Material Company in Ozark. Q: What is the best time to plant trees and shrubs? A: According to the MU Horticulture Guide: trees can be planted any time of the year. Container-grown trees suffer minimal root disturbance during transplanting. If they are carefully watered after planting, trees can be successfully planted even in midsummer. Bare root trees are generally not available for planting except in their dormant condition, during late winter and early spring. However, research at the University of Missouri has shown that bare root trees can survive summer planting in certain conditions. Bare root trees with up to 2 inches of stem caliper can be planted with excellent survival during the midsummer if preconditioned in a bed of irrigated pea gravel (called the Missouri Gravel Bed) for 10 to 12 weeks. If harvested and stored properly, trees can also be planted at any time of the year. However, since conditions during midsummer are often stressful to plants, most nursery professionals recommend planting in spring or fall. Q: How do you suggest storing seeds through the winter, and how long do they keep? A: When storing seeds for the future, be aware that different types of seeds should be stored under different conditions. Their ability to produce a plant depends on the time of seed harvest and the conditions of storage. Most seeds should be stored

in a sealed, airtight container and kept in a cool, dark area. Mark the container with indelible ink including the plant and variety name, the date stored and other identification information. There are three categories of seed storage based on the life of the seed. A viable seed is one that remains alive and is able to produce a live plant. Short-lived seeds are those that are viable for short periods, such as a few days or months under the right conditions. Medium-lived seeds are viable for two or three years if stored at low humidity and low temperatures. Long-lived seeds have hard seed coats. They are impermeable to water and can remain viable for up to 15 or 20 years. To determine if stored seeds are still viable, take few of them, count them and place them in a pot or flat tray filled with potting mix. Water the seeds well and give them plenty of light. Keep the potting mix moist, and see how many seeds sprout. If more than half to three quarters of the seeds sprout, then the seeds have a good chance of germinating in the garden. Hybridized seeds, which are developed from a complex genetic process, are grown and sold for superior characteristics like large flowers and very tasty fruit. Seeds collected from these plants will seldom produce similar desirable plants from their seeds. Do not save or store these seeds; in most cases, the resulting plants will be a disappointment. Angela Jones is on staff at the Botanical Center in Springfield, and she is a member of the Master Gardeners of Greene County class of 2014. She received her bachelor’s degree in business from Louisiana State University. Angela is now living in Southwest Missouri after relocating from her native Louisiana where she retired from 25 years of retail management. She is also a licensed florist and talented in wedding planning. She is making her home in Mt. Vernon with sons, Sean and Brandon and husband, Roger Keith. She can be reached via email at adjones@springfieldmo.gov.

The Monett Times • Cassville Democrat

Page 18 • Summer 2014 | Farm and Ranch

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Cassville Democrat • The Monett Times

Farm and Ranch | Summer 2014 • Page 19

Horses: Also competes in roping

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 3

has been a champion in the calf roping competitions. “In 2004, I went back to roping after breaking my pelvis. I won the U.S. calf roping Association’s national competition in Stevensville Texas. There were 577 competitors, and every day we’d rope three calves and eliminate competitors. We kept coming back every day until there 4.75 in. were only 12 of us left.” Roy has a horse trailer

that he brought home as part of the winnings for that championship success. Besides horse training and competitions, Roy also has a herd of black Angus beef cattle in which he uses his trained horses, and trained dogs to work. Later this month, Roy will also retire from over 44 years of work with Tyson Foods, “I retire on June 26,” said Roy who

has been committed to the quality of his work during his years at Tyson, “In 1990, I won “The Grand Idea” award Tyson gives out each year. I developed a sanitation idea that saved them millions of dollars. They awarded me $5,000 for that, and I trained people how to use the new system.” Roy plans to continue training horses and competing in calf roping.

Pest: Conventional pesticides work

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 11

their inability to puncture a healthy and intact piece of fruit. The life cycle of SWD is relatively short, with a new generation able to lay eggs in just 55 days. The pupation cycle can take as little as four days with a 15-day maximum window depending on ambient air temperatures. The insect then enters adulthood and lives for 20 to 30 days. Each female can lay up to 350 eggs, which will transition into larvae within 72 hours. The larval stage lasts seven days with a transition into pupa, and the cycle begins again.

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Currently, the only means of controlling this pest is by applying specific insecticides at the correct times. Determining the correct times starts with monitoring for the insect. Several different monitoring systems and baits have been tested for SWD, including studies from Cornell University, Michigan State, the University of Vermont and the University of California. The particular system I have found to be effective was one of the most successful methods used during the trials.

For our monitoring system, a peanut butter jar or a clear deli cup works best. Take the thoroughly cleaned container and place five, 3/16” diameter holes around the top of the cup under the threads of the peanut butter jar. At this point place two strips of red tape around the container, one at the bottom of the container, and the other near the newly made holes at the top. For the lid, make a hole large enough for 14 gauge wire to snugly fit through, the hole should be in the center of the lid. Allow 2-3” of wire to hang out of the bottom of the lid. Seal the hole with silicon or glue to ensure that once inside, the insects cannot fly away. On the wire coming out of the bottom of the lid, attach a yellow monitoring sticky card for the insects to land on. Once inside of the trap, the insect will mistake this yellow card for food and land on it becoming stuck in the process. Finally, a simple mixture of ½ tablespoon of dry active yeast, 2 tablespoons of sugar, and 6 ounces of water should be mixed thoroughly in the bottom of the container.

The yeast mixture will draw flies in because of the fermentation process activated by adding water and having sugar present for the yeast to feed on. This monitoring trap should be placed at fruit level directly by the plant itself. Check the trap once every seven days throughout mid-May and twice weekly after pollination has occurred and fruit has been set.

Control The SWD insect has no natural enemies in the United States. Conventional insecticides shown to control this pest include: Malathion, Mustang Max and Sevin. Current OMRI approved organic insecticides include: Azera, Entrust/ Green Light, and Pyganic. As always, when applying any pesticide it is important to read the label. Not all products listed here are labeled for use on all fruits in the state of Missouri. Once SWD is caught and positively identified, applications of the insecticides previously mentioned should be applied throughout the harvest season to protect your fruit from larval infestation.

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The Monett Times • Cassville Democrat

Page 20 • Summer 2014 | Farm and Ranch

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Cassville Democrat • The Monett Times

Farm and Ranch | Summer 2014 • Page 21

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The Monett Times • Cassville Democrat

Page 22 • Summer 2014 | Farm and Ranch

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Cassville Democrat • The Monett Times

Farm and Ranch | Summer 2014 • Page 23

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The Monett Times • Cassville Democrat

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