Esprit de Corp by Monica Miller

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Esprit was the bouncy, youthful, fresh, trendsetting clothier that led a wave of environmentally sensitive “green marketing.”

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Esprit was the brand that mixed high-spirited fashion photography with social awareness.

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Esprit was the purveyor of an internationalist, progressive, casual-high-style sensibility that, for some people, defined a certain time period, and a certain type of Californian.

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CONTENTS

01 02 03 04

BRAND HISTORY

UNVEILING THE BRAND

VISUAL STANDARDS

BRAND EXTENTIONS

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01 BRAND HISTORY

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We figured things out and step by step we started the business. It was a lot of ‘winging it’. We never had a big plan, we were just kids trying things out.

SUSIE TOMPKINS BUELL

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BRAND HISTORY EARLY HISTORY Esprit was built primarily by Doug Tompkins and Susie Tompkins, a husband-and-wife team whose personal and political values informed the company’s early business strategy. The couple met outside Lake Tahoe in 1963, when Susie Russell offered the hitchhiking Doug Tompkins a ride in her Volkswagen. Both Susie and Doug were from wealthy backgrounds and had dropped out of high school to explore more Bohemian lifestyles. After several months of travel together in Mexico and the western United States, they married and settled in San Francisco. There they embraced the social causes and fashions of that city’s active counterculture. In 1964 Doug, an enthusiastic skier and rock climber, invested $5,000 to start a retail business devoted to mountaineering equipment. Called North Face, the store was established in a prime location across from San Francisco’s popular City Lights Book Store, and it quickly achieved success. Because of his capable staff, who oversaw daily operations, Doug was able to spend much of the year on international rock climbing and skiing expeditions. Susie remained in San Francisco, raising the couple’s two children and occasionally assisting at the North Face store.

Schwartz and Tise sold their shares to the Tompkinses in 1976. Although Schwartz left the company immediately thereafter, Tise remained as chief fashion designer until 1979, when she reportedly became dissatisfied with the lack of input allowed her by the Tompkinses. That year Susie took charge of the design department. By this time the company had expanded its product line under several different labels to include pants, blouses, and skirts. These different divisions of the company were soon reorganized and consolidated, and Plain Jane was renamed Esprit de Corp. The company’s trademark loose-fitting casual designs in bold colors caught on, and Esprit rapidly evolved into one of the most popular clothing companies among 18- to 24-year-old women.

THE BRAND BECOMES AN IMAGE IN THE 1980S

During the early 1980s Esprit swiftly expanded and distinguished itself in the business community through both its sales and the way in which it reflected the eclectic tastes of Susie and Doug Tompkins. An art and architecture enthusiast, Doug Tompkins spent a great deal of time and During this time, Susie Tompkins became interested in a business venture money to renovate the San Francisco winery that would become the company’s new headquarters. Featuring skylights, wood floors, and Amish proposed by her friend Jane Tise. Together they formed the Plain Jane Dress Company, which offered puffed-sleeve, acrylic minidresses that Tise quilts on the walls, the brick building gained national recognition among architects and interior designers. The facility offered Esprit employees designed and Susie distributed. After the Plain Jane dress line became access to tennis courts, a running track, and a trendy café. Seeking successful locally, it was marketed to New York department stores by to create an enjoyable work atmosphere to match the spirit of Esprit Allan Schwartz, a salesperson who became a partner in the company. clothing, the Tompkinses encouraged employees to dress fashionably Late in the 1960s, having sold the North Face operation for approxiyet casually; high heels were not permitted on the easily scuffed wood mately $50,000, Doug Tompkins joined Plain Jane as a partner. While floors of the headquarters building. Furthermore, the Tompkinses offered Tise and Susie designed the product and added new designs and a unique benefits package. In addition to a 52 percent discount on Esprit labels to their popular line, Doug and Schwartz handled the marketing clothing, employees received subsidized tickets to the theater, ballet, and and sales responsibilities, targeting affluent California households with opera, as well as free vacations in the mountains and foreign language colorful, oversized catalogs. lessons. Employees came to refer to their workplace as “Camp Esprit” and “Little Utopia.”

GROWTH IN THE 1970S

By 1970 Plain Jane had sales exceeding $1 million a year. Doug and Susie Tompkins owned roughly 45 percent of the company, while Tise and Schwartz held the other 55 percent. At this time, some observers allege, Doug Tompkins stepped up his interest in the company, making bold decisions concerning the company’s direction and professing an interest in taking charge. He was instrumental in steering the company’s focus to more contemporary designs as the American “hippie” look subsided. In 1972, after he and Susie visited several countries in Asia, Doug decided to move manufacturing operations to Hong Kong, where clothing could be produced less expensively.

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From 1979 to 1985 the company’s sales grew from $120 million to $700 million. As design director, Susie approved all drawings and fabrics, while Doug held the titles of president and “image director.” During this time, Esprit became the first clothing company to require department stores to relegate a part of their sportswear section specifically for use as a “shop within a shop.” While the concept called for a relatively large amount of floor space, expensive track lighting, and special signage, many department stores complied because of the Esprit line’s high sales volume. Catalogs also served as an important marketing strategy in the early 1980s. Oversized, glossy booklets featured pictures of employees and other “real people” modeling Esprit clothes, alongside written personal

statements. In an interview, Doug Tompkins asserted that the Esprit customer is of “above-average intelligence and knows the difference between ‘substance and superficiality’” “Women who wear Esprit,” he concluded, “are the new feminists.” Between 1984 and 1986 the company borrowed nearly $75 million to open several retail stores, the first of which was a superstore in Los Angeles that showcased Doug Tompkins’s design taste. The store cost about $15 million to build. Subsequent stores were established in New Orleans, San Francisco, and Aspen, Colorado, and by 1987 there were 14 Esprit retail stores nationwide. While owners of department stores that carried Esprit clothing protested that these retail outlets represented unfair competition, company executives disagreed.

FISCAL STUMBLING IN THE LATE 1980S As Esprit grew, some critics charged that the company was overextending itself. In late 1986 and 1987, Esprit experienced losses for the first time in its history. Earnings fell from $62 million to $10 million, representing an 83 percent downturn. Several reasons were given for the abrupt reversal. The San Francisco Examiner suggested that competitors were copying Esprit designs and offering them at lower prices and further reported that some retailers were complaining of inferior quality and design in new Esprit lines. The Tompkinses maintained that while the company may have tried to expand too rapidly, its spring lines were selling well. They pointed to the decline of the U.S. dollar as the primary reason for the company’s losses. Furthermore, they maintained, while international sales were escalating, Esprit’s foreign operations were jointly owned with local investors so that profits were reinvested in the foreign market. In 1986 Doug Tompkins turned Esprit over to Corrado Federico, who became the company’s president, while Doug remained as Esprit’s CEO and chairperson. Exploring ways to cut the company’s costs and consolidate its operations, Federico implemented a freeze on hiring and bonuses that year. Although employees were soon required to pay for coffee and phone calls made in the office, the Tompkinses ensured that some of the unique benefits that made up Esprit’s image as a fun, creative workplace remained. The following year the Esprit work force was cut by 30 percent, and Doug Tompkins brought in experts from rival fashion companies to manage the newly consolidated divisions. It soon became apparent, however, that Esprit’s downturns were more than just temporary. Critics cited both Esprit’s failure to stay abreast of fashion trends, as well as irreconcilable differences that had developed

between Susie and Doug Tompkins, as reasons for the company’s troubles. Specifically, the Tompkinses had begun to argue about the direction the company should take. Susie regarded the company’s image as too young, maintaining that customers were seeking a more sophisticated look. She believed Esprit’s original customers had grown up, and she suggested introducing a line of corporate wear for the loyal Esprit buyer. Doug, on the other hand, argued that the company’s youthful image was too important to change and that corporate women would not purchase Esprit. In March 1988 the Wall Street Journal reported on the rift between the Tompkinses. While the column focused on the couple’s relationship and Doug’s alleged extramarital affairs with women in the company, it also reported that weak financial management and the design department’s failure to note the fashion world’s shift to a more traditional look were hurting business. In addition, interviews with former Esprit employees revealed that tension in the workplace was being fostered by two factions--those who sided with Doug and those in Susie’s camp. The article also revealed that Doug was seeking minority equity partners to help maintain the struggling Esprit retail stores.

DOUG TOMPKINS TAKES OVER IN THE LATE 1980S When Susie Tompkins petitioned a San Francisco court to appoint a third director to help run Esprit in March 1988, a judge advised that she and her husband resolve the situation without legal intervention. The following month, hoping to reverse the stalemate, the Tompkinses appointed three new directors — Peter Buckley, Isaac Stein, and Robert Bartlett — to turn Esprit around. By May of that year the new board recommended that Susie and Doug each remain 50-percent owners of Esprit but that they give up their operating control of the company. Under the plan Esprit president Federico became chief executive officer. Doug was given the title of chief executive officer of Esprit International operations and was required to abandon the idea of expanding Esprit’s retail establishments through outside financiers. While many of Doug’s duties at Esprit remained the same, Susie’s role at the company changed dramatically. No longer the chief fashion designer, she was effectively out of the business. As a “fashion consultant” to Esprit she kept in close contact with the management team but announced that she would also spend time away from Esprit, concentrating on her volunteer work for such social causes as AIDS awareness. Early in 1989, Susie and Doug Tompkins filed for divorce. That year Doug pursued his growing interest in environmental conservation within the parameters of the fashion industry by instituting a

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new marketing strategy in which the company actually advised the customer not to buy Esprit clothing if she did not need it. Doug argued that consumerism in general, and especially in the fashion industry, was leading to the destruction of natural resources and that Esprit should thus introduce clothing that would outlast the seasonal fads. Doug’s “buy only what you need” campaign included hang tags with the warning on each article of clothing, as well as a new line of fashions in more traditional, muted colors. Initially the line was profitable, but it eventually declined, and, during this time, critics noted that Doug seemed to be more interested in ecology than fashion.

journals, newspapers, and magazines depicted her as the victor in the war to control Esprit. Some observed, however, that the recession of the early 1990s could prove particularly challenging for the company and her leadership. Under Susie’s ownership, Stein was named Esprit’s chairperson. Federico remained president until his resignation in April of the following year; Stein subsequently assumed the presidency. Appointing herself creative director, Susie brought back the design team with which she had worked before leaving Esprit in 1988. Expressing the desire to produce casual fashions that exuded social awareness, she stated that her mission was to ensure “that Esprit inspire good values.”

The Esprit customer is of above-average intelligence and knows the difference between ‘substance and superficiality’. Women who wear esprit are the new feminists. While Esprit had recovered from the previous two years’ losses, the company was still regarded as unsteady and lacking a corporate vision. In July 1989 Esprit announced a new plan to refocus Esprit under one Tompkins. Doug was given the option to buy out Susie’s 50 percent within 120 days of the agreement. If he did not, both halves of the company would go up for sale at auction. Clothing and footwear manufacturing giants Benetton and Reebok became interested in acquiring Esprit, when, after the requisite 120 days, Doug had not exercised his option.

In 1991 the recently appointed “image director,” Neil Kraft, produced the “What would you do?” advertising campaign that surveyed young people about how they would like to change the world. The $8 million campaign featured quotes from America’s young people on such issues as racism and abortion. Although the advertisements won several awards and generated a great deal of media attention, sales figures were nevertheless disappointing. The following year Kraft left Esprit, and his duties were taken over by Fritz Ammann, who was named chief executive officer while Stein remained chairperson.

Analysts speculated that by forcing the auction of the company Doug had initially hoped to acquire Esprit for a lower price than he would have paid to buy out Susie’s share. However, as Reebok and Benetton became interested in purchasing Esprit, the price would have escalated. Furthermore, during this time, Susie was recruiting financial backing from the venture capitalist Bruce Katz, Esprit’s head of Far East operations Michael Ying, and Isaac Stein. One day before the bidding on Esprit was to close, Doug and Susie worked out a deal, and Esprit never went to auction. Industry observers believed that Doug had been concerned that both he and Susie would lose the company to higher bidders, and, in order to keep Esprit in the family, he accepted Susie’s offer in return for some interest in the company’s international division.

Pursuing her goal of promoting a socially responsible work force, Susie Tompkins replaced the employees’ free vacation program with a lunchtime lecture series featuring controversial figures speaking on current issues. She also established a volunteer program that paid Esprit employees for working ten hours per month at a nonprofit organization, providing that the employee matched that amount of time on his own. Furthermore, the ecological soundness of Esprit’s manufacturing practices was monitored by a new environmental and community affairs department in the company called the “EcoDesk.”

SUSIE TOMPKINS: SOLO IN THE EARLY 1990S Susie Tompkins returned to head Esprit amid much publicity. Trade

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The Ecollection line of Esprit clothing and accessories, touted as both ecologically sound and fashionable, was introduced early in 1992. The line featured buttons made from reconstituted glass or carved from nuts, organically grown or vegetable dyed cloth, and purses handwoven in a Mexican cooperative. Also that year Susie introduced the adult clothing line she had conceived years before. Tompkins referred to

the designs as “creative career” wear for the Esprit customer who had matured. The tailored trousers, sophisticated, pleated skirts, jackets, and vests were manufactured in earth tones such as plum, green, brown, and burgundy. Tompkins maintained that these clothes were functional as well as fun and appropriate for the business world. The unconventional fashion show at which the Susie Tompkins collection debuted received mixed reviews. Rather than provide a runway and models, Susie commissioned Reverend Cecil Williams of San Francisco’s popular Glide Memorial Church to give a sermon on the troubled lives and deplorable living conditions of youth in America’s inner cities. The show, featuring videotape and choral accompaniment, cost more than $5 million to create. While some reviewers were entertained, others reportedly were offended by Esprit’s tactics. Nevertheless, the company reported that the line had generated $13 million in sales.

FINANCIAL STRUGGLES AND NEW LEADERSHIP Soon thereafter, however, Susie Tompkins stepped down, or was forced out, as creative director of Esprit. In formal statements both she and the company contended that she was leaving wwin order to focus on her outside interests. Despite her lack of corporate title at Esprit, Susie remained involved as an advisor and consultant. From a public perspective, Esprit may have fumbled, but the damage was recoverable. More telling of things to come was the state of the financial end, which was described as a disaster by industry analysts and insiders. Forced to restructure its loans in 1992, Esprit saw a succession of CEOs and fashion failures. In 1993, the company made a short-lived foray back into the mail-order business with a catalog devoted to the Esprit Ecollection. Although loyal Esprit buyers seemed willing to spend $18 for an organic cotton t-shirt, the catalog alone was not enough to change the company’s fortunes. In 1994, on a whim, the company picked up the master apparel license for Dr. Seuss and produced a few t-shirts and hats to sell in Esprit boutiques during the holiday season. Intended for the children’s market, the Dr. Seuss items were wildly popular among adults and served as the one bright spot in the company’s mid-1990s slump. Meanwhile, Esprit’s U.S. sales shriveled from $360 million a year to about $200 million. Then, in 1996, Jay Margolis, a former vice-chairman at both Tommy Hilfiger and Liz Claiborne, came to the helm. Backed by Oaktree Capital of Los Angeles and Cerberus Partners of New York, he bought Esprit’s defaulted loans for $80 million dollars, severing Susie Tomkins’s fiscal ties to the company. Although Tomkins and Esprit de Corp. would wrangle over tax indemnities issues in legal battles drawn out for years, the

Margolis era had begun. Bolstered by a Women’s Wear Daily poll which ranked Esprit as 28th in a list of 100 most recognized fashion brands, Margolis refocused marketing to attract a slightly older clientele, moving to more expensive fabrics and quality control. At the end of Margolis’ first year, Esprit had added ten “shop-in shops” in departments stores around the country and two retail stores, and, more significantly, had shown a profit for seven straight months. In 1997, Margolis stepped up the pace of Esprit’s turnaround even further. The company started by announcing a new catalog, a tool for consolidating Esprit’s made-over image as “modern and sophisticated, yet distinctly fun.” Margolis expressed hope that the catalog might follow in the footsteps of Esprit’s ground-breaking catalog of the 1980s. Unafraid to use what had proved to work in the past, the company added 14 new retail stores that retained signature design elements, such as exposed ceilings, industrial lighting, and stained concrete floors. In a bold, new move, however, Esprit de Corp. purchased Moonstone Mountaineering, Inc., a manufacturer and distributor of technical performance apparel and sleeping bags. Further consolidating its active-oriented sportswear products, Esprit also made a licensing pact with Beach Patrol Inc., to gain immediate entry into the highly specialized swimwear industry. The late 1990s saw further diversification of Esprit’s product line as the company looked into adding menswear, sleepwear, and intimate apparel. The end of the decade also saw market diversification as Esprit established itself in e-commerce. In celebration of its 30th year anniversary in 1998, Esprit launched an on-line store. The Dr. Seuss merchandise earned an Internet site of its own, at www.seusswear.com, and Esprit’s subsidiary, Moonstone Mountain Equipment, earned a “Gold Award” in the World Wide Web/On-Line Advertising category from SF Interactive, a digital marketing agency. Esprit stepped up efforts to diversify the age of its consumer base as well. In 1999, it launched the “I Am Esprit” advertising campaign, a series of close-up shots of customers ranging from women in their 40s to 12-month-old infants. The ads were featured in established trade publications and in “wild postings,” on construction sites and vacant store fronts to reach middle-aged and junior consumers. The campaign was well-received as were most of Esprit’s attempts to reinvigorate itself under Margolis’ tutelage. By the end of the 1990s, Esprit de Corp. seemed to have recovered its lost market share and to have assured its place among a new generation of buyers. The company continued to open new stores, and the speed with which the new Esprit catalog grew to become a $15 million dollar operation left even the tongue-wagging fashion industry speechless.

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1968 Susie marries Doug Thompkins and together begin selling their own line of clothes out of the back of a station wagon in San Francisco. Their energy, enjoyment and enthusiasm for creating unusual styles under their own label gives birth to the Esprit brand. Meanwhile Doug is establishing athletic equipment retail brand, The North Face.

mid-1960s

1971

1976

1979

Susie Quincey Russell (later, Susie Thompkins) and Jane Tise founded Plain Jane clothing company, selling puffy-sleeved bohemian dresses to local boutiques.

Esprit is incorporated under the name of Esprit de Corp. and seven lines (including apparel, footwear, accessories, jewellery, and housewares) are created, each with its own label.

1967

In Hong Kong, Esprit Far East Group is born when Susie and Doug Tompkins meet Michael Ying, the group’s former chairman and shareholder of Esprit.

Esprit is incorporated under the name Esprit de Corp. in Duesseldorf, Germany. The young fashion sportswear label Esprit quickly develops into one of the most successful apparel brands in the European market.

John Casado designs the famous Esprit stencil-effect logo. Despite worries that the triple bar “E” would not be legible to customers, the new logo became one of the most recognized and memorable in international fashion.

Susie and Jane were making dresses in lots of 100 and had filled a $15K order from Joseph Magnin.

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1981 Esprit brought the Shop in Shop concept to America: a self-contained space, complete with distinctive fixtures, staff, music and shopping bags, all created within the larger department store.

1986 Doug and Susie’s powerhouse working partnership turned Esprit and its overseas divisions into $800m in yearly sales. Esprit’s first freestanding retail store opened in Hong Kong and Cologne.

1990 Esprit took out an ad in the Utne reader challenging over-consumption. The ad’s “buy only what you need” message triggered praise from the environmental movement and uproar from everyone else.

2000 Esprit Holding Ltd. becomes a constituent stock of Morgan Stanley’s MSCI Hong Kong Index. The new millenium opens with Esprit asking: “How much faster can we grow?”

This was also the year that Tom and Susie parted ways, both personally and professionally, unofficially marking the beginning of the end for the fashion giant.

1987

1992

1995

2008

Esprit devoted a page of its seasonal mailer to a letter from Doug and Susie urging the public to confront the growing AIDS epidemic. Praise and outrage followed.

Esprit dedicated an in-house design and research team to finding more environmentally and socially responsible way to make clothing, resulting in the Ecollection range.

Despite extensive coverage in the fashion, lifestyle, ecological, agricultural and business press, Ecollection struggled to establish itself as a financially viable business and was discontinued.

Esprit celebrates its 40th birthday with a number of activites across all divisions and license partners worldwide.

In the same year, Esprit Europe committed to exclusive use of organic cotton in its clothing.

2012 Although Esprit enjoyed huge success in the international market, it was announced that all North American retail stores would close as they had failed to stay competitive in this market.

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SIZING UP THE COMPETITION When it comes to the fashion industry, there is an over abundance of competition in the market. With our new rebrand, Esprit has forged a path of its own and managed to distinguished itself from a crowd saturated with trendy imitators. Many of these brands won’t last the test of time and others have found a speciliazed niche that will ensure their longevity. And then there are some that remain successful despite their questionable practices. Contrary to most business strategies, it is these “violators” that Esprit wants to reach out to the most. As a brand that embraces the idea of community and improving the way we conduct our industry, it behooves us to extend goodwill and work with our competitors to cultivate healthy working relationships that bolster productivity all while changing attitudes and alleviating the burden created by exploitative and degradating processes. Esprit has already made strides in many areas that are affected by practices within our industry but our work is never quite done. As manufacturing laws and regulations tighten, and the developed world expands, new problems arise that require our attention. It is estimated that within the next 10 years, our 5 DESKS will triple in size in order to keep up with the growing demand our expertise. Of course, the future is bright and Esprit is happy to be of service where ever we are needed.

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RESPONSIBLE Goodwill

ESPRIT (NEW)

The Body Shop Burt’s Bees

Levi’s

Benetton Patagonia

North Face ESPRIT (OLD) Tom’s Urban Outfitters

REPUTABLE

OBSCURE

Salvation Army

American Apparel

Hollister Abercrombie & Fitch

Zara H&M

Forever 21

UNSCRUPULOUS

Dolce & Gabbana Walmart

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02 UNVEILING THE BRAND

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30°– 60°– 90° Triangle

Rounded Corners

Pinwheel Blade

Anchor Point

60˚

Rotate & Duplicate

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ANATOMY OF A MARK The new pinwheel logomark for Esprit is based upon the brand soul’s three defining ideas: individuality, spontaneity, and responsibility. Each individual “blade”, has its own color, but when combined, creates a whole that is greater than the sum of its parts. It is given dimension, comes to life and realizes a functionality it couldn’t achieve independently. Pinwheels are spontaneous, they move at the will of the wind which has no rhyme or reason. It is extemporaneous, impulsive and not bound by any contraints. It is also these lack of contraints that lends it a responsible quality. It doesn’t rely on a power source except that which occurs naturally. The pinwheel is fun and whimsical and treads lightly by its simplistic nature. The even rotation speaks to equality — the varying colors to diversity — and they mix and mingle unimpeded.

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ALTERNATES The stacked logo configuration is the most commonly used version of the logo. If space permits use this configuration. The horizontal variation of the logo can be used in narrow spaces where the original configuration does not fit. Its primary function is for web use. The wordmark should be used when the x height is smaller than .25” or the wordmark would serve the design better than the previous options.

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esprit 5

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LOGO & WORDMARK __ I NCORRECT USAGE 1

CHANGING COLOR & FILLS

2 ADDING EFFECTS

It may seem like a good idea, and changing color or fills doesn’t necessarily look bad, but the pinwheel has been designed to remain as a process color mix or .5pt black or white stroke only. Adding alternative fills detracts from the individuality of each blade from which the pinwheel is composed. It can also add a busy appearance to the logo which was intended to be a simple composition constructed from even simpler parts. Busy fills add another dimension to the logo that is overly complicated and introduces problems with identity color matching.

As a general rule of thumb, shadowing, skewing, beveling and any other effects or filter that can be applied to the logomark should be strictly avoided. In the interest of simplicity, the absence of unneccessary details serves to strengthen the brand and its mission without subtracting from the subtle nuances of the logomark’s structure. When in doubt, consider the old adage “Less is more” — a concept that is wholly embraced in every aspect of the Esprit de Corp brand and identity.

3 ALTERNATE TYPEFACES

4 ALTERATION OF MARK

The Esprit wordmark has been specifically constructed for maximum compatibility with the pinwheel logomark. Proportions and curves have been carefully considered and paired to ensure a harmonious balance. As such, it is imperative that only the designated Esprit wordmark be paired with the pinwheel. Alternative lock-ups exist, as you will learn, but employing the use of non-related typefaces will only create confusion and conflicting designs.

Changing the dimensions, curves and proportions of the pinwheel is an easy adjustment to make, but should not be attempted unless already provided by this manual. Every aspect of its composition has been carefully considered and any variation to these elements renders the mark less effective in conveying its intended message. As previously mentioned, there are allowances for variation on orientation, based on the mark’s usage and environment, but these have been provided for you and should not be deviated from for any reason.

5 ORIENTATION DEVIATION

6 JUSTIFICATION

Do not reflect, rotate, or shear the mark. Scaling is acceptable, as discussed within the guidelines, and must be adhered to in order to retain optical consistency. In some instances, the size of the mark will prohibit you from utilizing the wordmark. In such instances, you are permitted to remove the wordmark. For more information, see the section on correct usage of the mark.

It is unaceptable to change the justification of the logo when used in conjunction with the wordmark. Their symmetry provides balance and stability to the overall composition. Though asymmetry can often produce beautiful results, for the purposes of our mark, it is insisted that its alignment remain centered in all matters of reproduction.

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03 VISUAL STANDARDS

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COLOR STANDARDS COLOR US VIBRANT Color is a vital element in creating the tone Esprit de Corp would like to convey to the viewer. It has always played a major role within our identity, functioning to link particular information, as well as offering the viewer visual cues for continuity and/or differentiation. The following color palette helps lend consistency to Esprit’s communications and strengthens the memorability of our brand. We encourage our design team to have fun with them and explore the possibilites that such a dynamic palette offers. There are three approved color palettes that include neutral, primary and blended colors. Each palette of carefully selected colors has been composed so that the colors can be used singularly or in conjunction to yield energetic and complementary results. They are represented in PANTONE PMS®, CMYK, and web-safe Hexadecimal (RGB) values for ease of approximation. The most recent version of the PANTONE® color formula guide should be used for matching PANTONE PMS® and CMYK color values. Hexidecimal color values have been provided for usage on-screen and on the web. Please note that the colors may appear different depending on specific monitor settings. Do not attempt to match these colors to those displayed on a monitor, as it will not yield acceptable results.

NEUTRAL COLORS The neutral color palette to be used is black and white with an allowable variation in gray within the limited color palette. These help break from the heavy use of the primary palette and create negative space.

PRIMARY COLORS The primary color palette is simply derived from the 4-color printing process (CMYK) and the 3 screen colors (RGB). This is the palette that will set the tone for the Esprit identity. They are used heavily to to call attention to details, create focal points, and as general spot color. They are meant to be used freely and without restraint.

BLENDED COLORS The blended color palette results from the blending of the primary colors within the pinwheel logo. These colors provide a bit more variation on the primary palette and should be used sparingly and not given prominence within a design.

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NEUTRAL COLORS

Coal Black

Smoke Gray

Vapor White

PMS: Black

PMS: 430

PMS: White

C/M/Y/K: 0/0/0/100

C/M/Y/K: 0/0/0/60

C/M/Y/K: 0/0/0/0

HEX: #000000

HEX: #808284

HEX: #FFFFFF

PRIMARY COLORS

Candy Red

Sun Yellow

Grass Green

Sky Cyan

Sea Blue

Magic Magenta

~PMS: 1795

~PMS: 803

~PMS: 7738

~PMS: 306

~PMS: 7687

~PMS: Rhodamine Red

C/M/Y/K: 15/100/100/0

C/M/Y/K: 0/0/100/0

C/M/Y/K: 75/5/100/0

C/M/Y/K: 100/0/0/0

C/M/Y/K: 100/90/10/0

C/M/Y/K: 0/100/0/0

HEX: #D12229

HEX: #FFF100

HEX: #40AD48

HEX: #00ADEF

HEX: #24408E

HEX: #EC008B

BLENDED COLORS

Blend #1

Blend #2

Blend #3

Blend #4

Blend #5

Blend #6

~PMS: 123

~PMS: 7738

~PMS: Green

~PMS: 299

~PMS: 7678

~PMS: Rhodamine Red

CMYK: 0/20/90/0

CMYK: 75/0/90/0

CMYK: 80/5/70/0

CMYK: 75/20/0/0

CMYK: 75/90/0/0

CMYK: 0/100/10/0

HEX: #FFCB31

HEX: #34B458

HEX: #00AB79

HEX: #00A0DB

HEX: #623F98

HEX: #EC0080 040 __ 041

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a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 042 __ 043

BUSINESS SYSTEM A comprehensive new identity requires an equally comprehensive business system to help establish the new look and feel of the brand in the public sphere. The new Esprit de Corp. has opted for a clean, streamlined look that conveys the modern, fashionable sensibilities of the brand. A delicate touch of color help the create the right amount of “pop” while the clean white ground incorporating the 60° pinstripe motif to provide a more professional appeal. Business cards should be set with the standard 2” x 3.5” dimensions, formatted with a portrait orientation.. Printing is double-sided with the pinstripes set to full bleed. The envelope is a standard number 10 window envelope with a full bleed pinstripe motif on the inner portion and able to be viewed through the address window when empty. The outer flap of the envelope will also be printed with pinstripes that bleed off the bottom edge. The wordmark and address should align with the window. The official letterhead is standard 8.5” x 11” letter-sized dimensions with a pinstrip border that bleeds off every edge. the stacked logo mark is used on this example with contact information centered, similar to the business card. At the discretion of the designer, variations of the logo mark can be made to suit alternate types of correspondence, as long as all rules for for clearspace and proportions are observed.

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SUSIE TO��INS BUELL Chief Executive Oﬃcer t. 415 829 3433 f. 415 730 8395 c. 415 530 3930 chiefexec�esprit.com Esprit de Corp. 840 Minnesota Street San Francisco, CA 94107 www.esprit.com

Esprit de Corp. 840 Minnesota Street San Francisco, CA 94107

SUSIE TO��INS BUELL Chief Executive Oﬃcer

Esprit de Corp. 840 Minnesota Street San Francisco, CA 94107 info�esprit.com

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04 BRAND EXTENSIONS

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IN WITH THE NEW FASHION WITH INTEGRITY As a fledgling brand, Esprit de Corp. stepped on the scene with a fresh perspective, embracing a philosophy that, for its time, was innovative and introspective and managed to turn the entire fashion world on its head. We were leaders in a new movement — one with a focus on individualized spirit — defined by playful impulsiveness and lighthearted whimsy. But more than that, Esprit was a brand that exuded moxie. We took stances on issues that were deemed controversial and brought them to light, and got people talking and taking note. The larger we grew, the more it became apparent a closer look needed to taken at the our company’s own inner workings. Strides were made in the implementation of responsible practices, many of which were eventually adopted by our competitors industry-wide. The Esprit name became synonymous with environmental stewardship and ethical ambassadorship, while leveraging diverse media to promote our ideals and agenda. It was only in the last couple decades, as the company grew large and unwieldy, faced with numerous financial setbacks and management mishandlings, that it became abundantly clear we had lost sight of our values and needed to return to our roots. Not simply because of any vested interest, but because at the bottom of it all, we endeavored to make a difference doing something that we loved.

SPIRIT OF REINVENTION Having taken ample time to reflect upon the values which carried Esprit to the height of its success, we acknowledged it would only serve our brand further to equally examine the underpinning of our noted decline. Amending the fundamental flaws within our business model, restructuring corporate holdings and redirecting our focus towards the future were all vital steps towards reestablishing Esprit’s reputation for quality fashion with an emphasis on conscious production. In a world of fast fashion and trends with lifespans reduced to a matter of months, Esprit is responding in only a manner that makes sense for both the consumer and the planet alike. Rejecting downgraded fabrics and workmanship for quality pieces, featuring timeless design that live beyond the season, not only eases the strain of our customers’ pocketbooks, but reduces the impact of manufacturing process on the environment. With forecasters predicting the demise of disposible apparel and synthetic fabric in favor of recycled styles and versatile, organic fibers, Esprit has chosen to take proactive measures to help curtail obsolecence and textile waste through every channel of production. This

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begins with the supply chain in which we operate and ends with disposal of textile waste. We hope that by establishing an early lead in this arena, we can set the benchmark, instituting a model that can be applied to the industry as a whole.

EXTENDING OUR REACH The early dynamic of the Esprit de Corp. brand could be interpreted as having had its primary focus on individuality and spontaneity while social and environmental responsibility, though important to our identity, played a more subordinate role. With a new shift in priorities, we maintain that individuality and spontaneity now work in the service of responsibility, the overarching principle now guiding the brand. In keeping with our guiding principles, Esprit de Corp has devised a five-pillar strategy that extends across the full life cycle of our business, ranging from raw material sourcing and the supply chain to product creation and our employees, customers and consumers. Each of the five pillars, or as we call them, DESKs, plays its own specific role in achieving our brand’s mission. Though functioning independently, they have been organized to work together; a strategy that ensures attention and care will been given to every activity in which we involve ourselves. From the factory floor to the point-of-sale, there is a DESK assigned to manage and oversee the work being done, how it falls in line with our mission, and providing a measure of accountability. Anyone who is familiar with Esprit will instantly recognize the considerable transformation the brand has undergone. We like our assure our customers that Esprit is still in the business of fashion design and retail, but by extending our scope into these new diverse territories, we can be confident that we are providing the most conscientious apparel on the market today. We hope that with time, our efforts will catch on both with the consumer and merchandisers, ultimately providing another dimension to the fashion industry that it has been long overdue.

ecoDESK

RESPONSIBILITY 19

SPONTANEITY 17

Eco-Initiatives Lobbying Aggregate

Sustainable Raw Materials

Smart Fiber Development

Fashion Recycling Lab

Personalized Wardrobe Planning

Fashion Library

Pop-up Store

socioDESK

5 9

INDIVIDUALITY

THREADS Network

Trade Shows

Fashion Swap Community

Cultural Exchange

18 6

fashionDESK

Best Practices Outreach

2 14

consultDESK

Certification & Credentialing

Ethical Advocate Partnering

Consumer Education

ESPRIT Classroom

adDESK

Product

Service

Environment

Experience

Education

Event

Green Marketing Agency

Beauty & Body Image Council

Greenwatch Campaigns

Samsara Festival

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eco DESK Esprit’s brainchild of the mid-1980s, ecoDesk was clearly ahead of its time. Recently revived with a fresh perspective and clearly outlined goals, Esprit’s answer to social responsibility, environmental protection and corporate transparency starts here.

“CONSCIOUSNESS” ABOUNDS Esprit whole-heartedly believes that it is our responsibility to give back to society in any way we can. This focus includes, but is not limited to, charitable contributions of time and funding, a duty to provide environmentally friendly products and services, and a desire to improve the lives of individuals, both locally and around the globe. And it should go without saying that these principles permeate every aspect of our daily pursuits and activities. We strive to stand out among other retailers as a prime example of how social responsibility can be productively coupled with sound strategies to advance goodwill, while building a sustainable and profitble business. And at the heart of all our efforts to increase our effectiveness and improve productivity is ecoDesk.

CATALYST FOR CHANGE From its inception, responsibility has played an integral role in the advancement of the Esprit brand and EcoDESK has undoubtedly been the driving force behind all such ethical endeavors. This unique and talented team has worked tirelessly to develop the standards and guidelines that have served to establish ESPRIT as a leader in the “green” fashion movement and an innovator of sustainable solutions. We began by teaming up with non-profits, such as The Sustainable Apparel Coalition, defining a comprehensive Best Practices list which was adopted and implemented by all active members, revolutionizing the industry as a whole. From there, leaps in technology and material sourcing were made that would situate ESPRIT at the forefront of one of the most important and notable undertakings in recent history. The following sections are managed and maintained under the ESPRIT ecoDESK division:

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Best Practices Outreach Eco-Initiatives Lobbying Aggregate Sustainable Raw Materials Sourcing Smart Fiber Development

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SMART FIBERS & INNOVATIVE TEXTILES Technology and textiles go hand in hand. Esprit has been saying this for years and now we have evidence to back our claims. Leading scientists with ecoDESK have developed the latest in sportswear that will literally power your day. You heard correct. Clothing that generates its own energy based on your movements and solar rays. So now you can power your electronics on the go, even when you’ve inconveniently misplaced your charger. But there’s more. Water and dirty resistent activewear will leave you feeling fresh even after the most vigorour workouts. Not a gym hound? That’s okay, we’ve tested these fibers on the biggest couch potatoes and found it took 3 months before washing became a necessity. So now you can put off the laundry, no one will ever be able to tell. We are truly living the future The only question left is what else can your clothes do for you?

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SYNTHETIC GEMS CULTIVATION The plight of the conflict diamond, or blood diamond, crisis in Africa is a tragic reality that we as Americans often neglect to consider when making what seems like a commonplace purchase of precious metals and gemstones. So far removed from the horror of the atrocities committed in the name of diamond procurement, we fail to register just how great of an impact a simple piece of jewelry could have on the lives of others. Esprit’s Sustainable Raw Materials Sourcing Agency has now developed a state-of-the-art laboratory with the specific task of cultivating synthetic diamonds through advanced production methods. By creating a high-pressure, high-temperature environment we can now control crystal formation to create cultured diamonds that are virtually indistringuishable from their naturally excavated counterparts. Only through microscopic partical examinations could a scientist actually ascertain these laboratory-grown diamonds from those geologically produced. Wearing diamonds never felt so good and now you can buy luxury with a clear conscience, knowing that you’ve done your part to abate a serious issue that results in thousands of deaths and widespread human suffer. It should also be noted that for every purchase of an Esprit Laboratories Diamond that is made, a portion of the profits go towards charities that are working hard to reform this heartbreaking problem and help stabilize these countries and their support development. So go ahead and get your bling.

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fashion DESK Here at Esprit, fashion is our lifeblood. From our meager beginnings out of the trunk of Susie’s station wagon, to our sensational flagship stores, our vision has remained a constant; to infuse cutting-edge style with the highest standards of design and sustainability.

SIMPLICITY IS OUR GAME We love fashion. It makes us feel good and it makes our customers feel good. However, the fashion industry faces serious challenges regarding the production methods that bring every article of clothing to the consumer. From our offices to our factories, manufacturing processes have a lasting impact on the environment that has a cumulative effect. Easing the burden of this industry on the planet has become our priority as we move forward as a brand. We consider ourselves champions of the environment, and as such, we would be remiss not to respond accordingly. Therefore, Esprit has devised multiple solutions in addressing the problem at its core, and the key: simplicity.

ESPRIT IS RESPONSIVE For the last couple decades, Esprit has been dedicated to the development of a production line that is consistent with our beliefs and values. Now, thanks to the countless hours of research and development by our friends over at ecoDESK, we are proud to unveil fashionDesk, our division committed to bringing only the best in ethically sound fashion acquisition. From our Fashion Recycling Lab, that upcycles and renews vintage, deadstock, and surplus materials to create totally one-of-a-kind pieces, to our Personalized Wardrobe Planning (PWP) services that provide clients maximum diversity of style with the absolute minimum of necessary pieces, fashionDesk aims to reduce the amount of waste and destruction that has become a result of mass fashion production. The following sections are managed and maintained under the ESPRIT fashionDESK division:

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Ecollection Renewal Fashion Recycling Lab PWP Services Bibliothèque de mode Esprit Pop Up Esprit!

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TO LIVE ARTFULLY, SIMPLY & PASSIONATELY IS MORE SATISFYING THAN BEING A CONSPICUOUS CONSUMER.

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socio DESK In the past, the ESPRIT brand has placed emphasis on fostering the individualized spirt, but in our rapidly changing technological landscape, where we’ve become an interconnected “Global Village”, our priority has shifted to an ethos of cooperation and knowledge exchange.

SHAPING PERSPECTIVES THROUGH COMMUNITY ESPRIT believes in the power of community. Bringing people together to institute positive change and improving the social fabric is the ultimate mission of socioDESK. By connecting like-minded people across sectors, and harnessing individual strengths into larger concerted efforts, results can be achieved that were never previously thought possible. Rather than just showing people the world, Esprit wants to actively engage them in collaborative projects that challenges their sensibilities and work towards ecological sustainability, economic justice, human rights protection, political accountability, corporate transparency, and peace — issues that are systemically intertwined.

CROWDSOURCING SOLUTIONS At ESPRIT, we understand the value of untapped inspiration. It is with this understanding that socioDESK was conceived. Their expert insight into collaborative partnerships has been the driving force behind several new crowdsourcing initiatives that have proven successful in generating innovative and truly inspired solutions to real life problem. socioDESK has been tasked with establishing multiple platforms for advancing the global movement of people and organizations fighting for a more just and sustainable world. Most notably, the THREADS network, has taken social media to a space where people can assemble to raise awareness of issues while nurturing individual talent and ideas to achieve real results that benefit everyone. Here, members are clients and creatives who provide and curate content. Additionally, our ESPRIT Cultural Exchange Program (ECEP), delivers these solutions to those who may not have access, while working to preserve indigenous rights, traditions, culture and artforms. The following sections are managed and maintained under the ESPRIT socioDESK division:

* * * *

THREADS Network Trade Shows ESPRIT Fashion Swap Community ESPRIT Cultural Exchange Program

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consult DESK Esprit’s internationally recognized programs through consultDESK, provide manufacturers, retailers and educators with a framework for identifying and implementing practical and measureable green fashion design, operations and maintenance solutions.

STAND UP TO STAND OUT All companies strive to boost their bottom line and increase their desireablility and competitive edge while doing something that makes them look good. Esprit’s consultDESK offers several means by which they can now acheive this. Based on a model we developed, implemented and maintined with the help of LEED and The Sustainable Apparel Coalition, we can now reach out and apply the same practices to partners who desire to manufacture and educate with an emphasis on responsibility. Comprehensive and flexible, consultDESK addresses the entire lifecycle of fashion production through third-party verification processes designed specifically for our clients’ needs.

TRANSFORMING THE INDUSTRY Esprit has assembled top consulting profressionals from today’s leading companies specializing in environmental conservation and ethical advocacy to work with our industry counterparts to revolutionize the way we, as a whole, approach manufacturing and commerce. Through our Ecolabel Certification and Credentialling program, we can help lower operating costs, streamline processes, reduce waste, conserve energy and water, and help businesses qualify for tax rebates, and other incentives. Our Ethical Advocate Partnering program connects wholesalers, suppliers, contractors, retailers, etc. to ensure the best quality, conflict-free materials and serivices are being furnished. Esprit Classroom has developed the most ethically sound workshops, curriculum, and pilot programs being taught today. By being proactive and imparting our knowledge with the next generation of creative professionals we can instilling good habits that will create a brighter, more promising future for fashion as well as the world at large. The following sections are managed and maintained under the ESPRIT fashionDESK division:

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Ecolabel Certification & Credentially Ethical Advocate Partnering Consumer Education ESPRIT Classroom

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ad DESK Esprit has often received recognition for having paved the way for environmentally sensitive “Green Marketing.” By instituting adDESK, Esprit hoped to continue the tradition of exploring new territory and reinventing the way consumers are presented responsible advertising.

AVOIDING THE “GREENWASH” In the marketing world, terms such as “sustainability” and “eco-friendly” have gone bankrupt. That is to say, they have become gimmicky and questionable as consumers grow ever more skeptical of their usage. As the market becomes over-saturated with deceptive ploys to promote non-existent green practives, adDESK aims to stands apart. In order to earn credibility, Esprit doesn’t just talk about our commitment to the sustainable practices, we want to show it. adDESK is our primary vehicle for delivering our message of dedication to conscientious global citizenry.

OUR ACTIVE PURSUIT OF TRUTH We like to think we hold ourselves up to the high standards our customers deserve. To us, the best way we can display our respect for the consumer is by avoiding the use of exaggeration and subliminal messages to manipulate the public into buying the hype. In the ongoing search for authenticity in green marketing and building a sustainable brand, highly vetted institutions like Esprit’s Greenwatch Campaign, are constantly forging relationships and with businesses that champion responsible practices and promoting their good works. Through the Samsara Festival, we bring green vendor and the public together for a once in in a lifetime experience that has steadly grown every year. Often compared to Burning Man, Samsara is an event that brings people from every walk of life together to experience culture, tradition, community, and new ways of thinking without the distractions of modern technology. Our PERCEPTIONS Council researches and records the effects of advertising on self-image and works with outside advertising agencies to address fundamental issues associated with their ad campaigns. They also do wonder work reaching out to youth who may be struggling to cope with their own perceived imperfections. The following sections are managed and maintained under the ESPRIT fashionDESK division:

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Green Marketing Agency PERCEPTIONS Beauty & Body Image Council Greenwatch Campaign Samsara Festival

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COLOPHON DESIGN SEMESTER CLASS INSTRUCTOR TYPEFACES

MONICA MILLER SPRING_2013 GR 604_NATURE OF IDENTITY HUNTER WIMMER NEUTRAFACE SLAB DISPLAY NEUTRAFACE 2 TEXT EAMES CENTURY MODERN

PRINTING & BINDING PAPER CUTTING

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MONICA MILLER RED RIVER PREMIUM MATTE ECO COPY

TO OUR READERS: In the interest of complete and total transparency, Esprit is happy to share all information contained within this manual. We hope that we can continue to provide our loyal customers and all interested parties any and all requested information. To that end, please use this responsibly and respectfully. If any errors or misinformation is discover, please contact our design team and they will be happy to amend the problem in question. Thank you for your readership.

SPIRITOFTHEGROUP.COM 078â&#x20AC;&#x160;__â&#x20AC;&#x160;079

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