December 2009/January 2010 Winter scene photo by Becky Hart
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Vol 26 No 2
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Wiley Dog Truffles Are Definitely For People Not for Doggies By Gail Jokerst Like many Montanans, JoAnn Kimbrough grew up in a family that, during the holiday season, took its candy making as seriously as its gift giving. Whenever JoAnn’s mom donned her apron to whip up a batch of toffee bars, divinity, or peanut brittle, JoAnn would appear by her side ready to assist in any capacity.
“Mom was a fussy cook and followed recipes to the letter. She watched her temperatures right to the degree,” recalls JoAnn, who learned the importance of precision from her mentor’s example and developed a love for the culinary arts at a young age. It didn’t matter whether her mom asked her to blend melted butter and sugar together; mix chopped nuts into bowls of liquid chocolate; or nestle treats in tins for friends and family, JoAnn enjoyed every phase of the candy production process. Several decades later, making candy by hand still enchants JoAnn. Only now, as part of her budding food business, Wiley Dog Truffles… & More, she creates glossy truffles filled with creamy smooth ganache centers and she makes her confections year-round, not just for the holidays. But taking the leap from stirring together a batch of homemade fudge to turning out professional-quality bonbons was not something that happened overnight for this Billings chocolatier.
“Before this, I’d never made more than fudge or divinity. I soon discovered the techniques for truffles were far more demanding. People who make good food know that it’s about patience and being willing to take on the learning curve to get the best product possible without skimping on quality,” states JoAnn. “Creating truffles is a skill. You have to learn to use a piping bag and molds and how to gently melt the chocolate and hold it at the right temperature so it stays malleable to work with. The whole process requires precision every step of the way and takes awhile to master. In the beginning, I needed five hours to create fifty truffles. Now I can triple that output in less than half that time.” Aside from the gorgeous sheen and fun shapes of Wiley Dog Truffles, what really makes these candies stand out in a crowd of chocolates are JoAnn’s unique flavor combos. While you would expect to - and happily can - bite into classic caramel, coffee, and mint fillings, you’ll also find she offers an array of surprising flavors to give those popular stand-bys some competition. Everything from chili pepper, curry, and cranberries to ginger, cinnamon, and balsamic vinegar reductions add intriguing nuances to these truffles. Granted, some people may consider such chocolate pairings odd. But anyone with an adventurous palate has no problem appreciating Wiley Dog Truffles’ delectable (Continued on page 52)