Discover Tasmania - Western Wilderness

Discover Tasmania

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Guildford

Sandy Cape

Talbots Lagoon

Waratah

Lake Gairdner

B23

Savage River

LAKE CETHANA

Mole Creek

THE TARKINE Pieman River

Cradle Valley

Corinna

Rupert Pt

Dove Lake

Hardwicke Bay

Cradle Mountain

Lake

Conical Rocks Pt

Mackintosh

Tullah

Lake Rosebery

PIEMAN

LAKE

L Mackenzie

Lake Will

WALLS OF

Rosebery

Granville Harbour

LAKE ROWALLAN

Lake

Williamsford

JERUSALEM

NATIONAL PARK

Zeehan Trial Harbour

LAKE AUGUSTA

Murchison

L Plimsoll Overland Track

CRADLE MOUNTAIN -

B28

Trial Harbour

LAKE ST CLAIR

Lake Margaret

B27

LA

KE

Beach

AIR

CL

Gormanston

Queenstown

B11 ST

NATIONAL PARK

Lake St Clair

B24

Bronte Park

Derwent Bridge Laughing Jack

LAKE

Strahan

Ocean

Pump House Pt

LAKE BURBURY

Lagoon

KING M

WORLD HERITAGE

Sophia Pt

Bronte Lagoon

WILLIA

C Sorell Macquarie Hds

L Binney

WILDERNESS AREA

Liberty Pt MACQUARIE

Tarraleah

Tungatinah Lagoon

Sloop Pt

LIN R

Farm Cove

Kelly Basin

FRA NK

Gould Pt

Sarah Island

IVE

R

HARBOUR Gorge Pt

Rum Pt

WILD RIVERS

RIVER

Inlet

ERN S O UT H

Varner Bay

Wayatinah Lagoon Lake Catagunya

GORDON

Birchs

Birthday Bay

Wayatinah FRANKLIN - GORDON

Heritage Landing

Hobart

NATIONAL PARK

HIBBS BAY

Pt Hibbs SPERO BAY Endeavour Bay

LAKE

Strathgordon

High Rocky Pt

GORDON

OCEAN

LAKE

Low Rocky Pt

B61

PEDDER

ELLIOTT BAY

NYE BAY

Elliot Pt

Brier Holme Hd

Svenor Pt eck Wr

y Ba

Settlement Pt Payne Bay

Davey Hd North Hd PORT DAVEY Pt St Vincent

Hilliard Head Stephens Bay

2

The Western Wilderness

SOUTHWEST

NATIONAL PARK

BATHURST HARBOUR

The Western Wilderness From the vibrancy of cosmopolitan Hobart

the imagination of the adventurer can

to its gourmet rival Launceston, from

conceive, whether on land or sea. The

the untamed vastness of the south west

curious can discover and learn of our

to the agricultural Midlands, from the

heritage, and the foodie can enjoy fine

breadbasket of the north west’s red soil

wine, fresh produce and first-class cuisine.

to the white beaches and fishing villages

But for those who also have a passion for

of the sunny east coast, Australia’s Island

the beauty of landscape unadorned, and

State is a place of bewitching diversity.

crave the mystery of the forest, the majesty

Tasmania caters for a variety of interests,

of mountains, and the rush of wild rivers, it

and as many recreational pursuits as

is the Western Wilderness that awaits.

WORLD HERITAGE WILDERNESS AREA

4

CRADLE MOUNTAIN Reinvigorate or relax

6

THE TARKINE

14

WARATAH A town built of tin

15

CORINNA At home in the wilderness

15

TULLAH, ROSEBERY AND ZEEHAN 17 Towns rich in mining history STRAHAN AND THE GORDON RIVER Cruise capital of the wilderness QUEENSTOWN Living art in a mining town LAKE ST CLAIR AND DERWENT BRIDGE Leewuleena (Sleeping Water) and The Wall TARRALEAH Hydro meets art deco

18

24

25

26

For detailed information on things to see and do look for the official Western Wilderness Visitor Guide, available throughout Tasmania, and online at discovertasmania.com, or visit tasmaniasnorthwest.com.au

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Editorial by Tim Dub Design by Caramel Creative Managing Editor: Angela Taylor (left) Gordon River Cruises.

George Apostolidis

discovertasmania.com

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World Heritage Wilderness Area Whilst civilisation in all its glory is a reection of our achievements, wilderness is an expression of something immeasurably greater, that requiring nothing of us, provides relief from human bustle and if we are open to the experience, a window to our souls.

The area is judged so precious that no less than 1.38 million hectares have been given World Heritage listing.

4

The Western Wilderness

With its jagged mountains, wild tannindark rivers, ancient forests and heath, the Tasmanian wilderness is a place of spectacular beauty, much of it so remote and inaccessible that only the intrepid or the foolhardy will ever enjoy its secrets.

But the more sedentary also have a chance to witness the wonders of wilderness by driving along the Lyell Highway, which traverses the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park for 60 or so kilometres between Derwent Bridge and Lake Burbury.

Follow the Murchison Highway and the road eventually leads to Cradle Mountain, at the very heart of this extraordinary region.

The area is judged so precious that no less than 1.38 million hectares have been given World Heritage listing, meeting seven of the 10 possible criteria for inclusion, one of the highest ratings of anywhere in the world.

There is a profusion of rare plants found only in Tasmania, and the animal kingdom achieves superlatives too, with the Tasmanian devil and quolls representing

the world’s largest carnivorous marsupials, and the platypus and echidna its earliest mammals. Aboriginal sites have been dated back to 36,000 years, even before the last Ice Age when inexorable glaciers shaped the deep valleys and buttongrass moorlands.

But there is something more special about wilderness than mere facts can convey. (clockwise from top) Lemonthyme Lodge; Cradle Mountain Lodge; Bird River. Glenn Gibson

discovertasmania.com

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Cradle Mountain Reinvigorate or relax He called the chalet “Waldheim”, meaning “Forest Home”, and it became a welcoming destination to many visitors over the years that followed.

6

The Western Wilderness

Gustav Weindorfer’s vision for Cradle Mountain The incomparable beauty of Cradle Mountain and its surrounding area is enjoyed by countless thousands every year. This is possible, largely due to the selfless idealism and enduring vision of one man - Gustav Weindorfer who emigrated from Austria to Australia in 1900 at the age of 26, where he quickly discovered a passion for the Australian bush. In the summer of 1910, Gustav and his wife Kate climbed Cradle Mountain, and Weindorfer gazing all around at the spectacular view made his famous pronouncement, “This must be a national park for the people for all time. It is magnificent and people must know about it and enjoy it.” His epiphany was to transform their lives.

They purchased 200 acres of land in a valley near Cradle Mountain and Gustav started to build an alpine chalet next to an ancient forest of King Billy pines. By Christmas 1912, they were ready to receive their first guests. He called the chalet “Waldheim”, meaning “Forest Home”, and it became a welcoming destination to many visitors over the years that followed.

Tragically, Kate died in 1916 after a long illness, and Gustav moved permanently to Waldheim. With the hospitality and generosity of this exceptional man as a recurring theme, their story is told through exhibits in a replica chalet, on the same spot as the original building, not far from Gustav Weindorfer’s grave where he has rested since 1932.

In May 1922, an area of some 6,400 hectares from Cradle Mountain to Lake St. Clair was declared a “scenic reserve and wildlife sanctuary”. The work that had begun on the mountain top was completed in December 1982, when the area was added to the World Heritage list, ensuring its unique wonders are protected for “all time”. (left) Cradle Mountain and Dove Lake.

Paul Sinclair

discovertasmania.com

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The surface of Dove Lake can sparkle with mirror-like clarity, or ripple and writhe blackly in the breeze, in service to the mountain as a moat to its castle.

CRADLE MOUNTAIN CRADLE MOUNTAIN WILDERNESS VILLAGE

Cradle Mountain Wilderness Village is in a secluded bush setting in Cradle Valley on the edge of the World Heritage listed Cradle Mountain/Lake St Clair National Park.

8

The Western Wilderness

Our private, self-contained cottages have been carefully sited in the natural bushland so you are surrounded by native plants and wildlife. We offer a variety of cottages catering for the travelling couple up to larger family groups.

Cradle Mountain Wilderness Village Cradle Mountain Road, Cradle Mountain Tasmania 7310 Ph: 61 3 6492 1500 Fax: 61 3 6492 1076 Web: cradlevillage.com.au

Day walks at Cradle Mountain The 10 or more day walks within the domain of Cradle Mountain must rank as the finest in Australia. Wild open moorlands are cut though by plunging gorges where waterfalls rush into streams that burble through forested valleys, and innumerable lakes and tarns delight, some surprisingly located hundreds of metres up the mountain’s flanks. With terrain of such variety and exceptional beauty, there is a walk here for everyone. An invaluable aid is the Day Walk Map, and good boots and rainwear are essential items for most outings.

The Dove Lake Loop Track is a perennial favourite. In a perspective that constantly changes, Cradle Mountain soars high above the lake, its jagged spires reaching up from sheer walls with gothic splendour. The surface of Dove Lake can sparkle with mirror-like clarity, or ripple and writhe blackly in the breeze, in service to the

Day Spas in the Wilderness

or pools in beautiful surrounds, as well as pampering treatments such as facials and body scrubs. Both men and

mountain as a moat to its castle. The

If climbing the summit is not your thing

women are catered for and swimwear

track winds around the lake to return

Cradle Mountain offers some genuine

is required for the hot pools. Advance

along the western shore for an easy

rejuvenation in the form of day spas.

bookings are recommended as both

two hours of pure magic, and deep

‘Calm Day Spa’ at Cradle Mountain

spas are proving to be very popular.

satisfaction.

Chateau, and ‘The Waldheim Alpine Spa’ at Cradle Mountain Lodge offer

Cradle Mountain. Joe Shemesh

massages, steam rooms and hot tubs

The Waldheim Alpine Spa, Cradle Mountain Lodge. George Apostolidis

discovertasmania.com

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People walk in the door thinking they are vicious and savage, and walk out with an entirely different perception.

A Devil’s Playground “Raising a joey devil is an amazing experience� says Tasmanian Wade Anthony, owner of the Devils at Cradle sanctuary. “Working with them every day,

in a landscape where devils were a familiar part of the wilderness. Several years later, when Wade discovered a devil that had died from devil facial tumour disease on the road near his home at Cradle, he determined to try to save his childhood companions, work that is now his passion.

you realise it is an absolutely extraordinary

The conservation facility he founded

animal, and something you just don’t want

rehabilitates orphaned devils and operates

to lose�.

breeding and camera-based research programs, with tours for the public that

Wade spent much of his childhood ďŹ shing,

include the transforming opportunity to

bushwalking and camping with his father,

stroke a devil.

(top) Tasmanian devil. Garry Moore; (above) Infant ‘joey’ devil. Rick Eaves.

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10

The Western Wilderness

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Morning tea on a perfect crescent of white sand. In the footsteps of piners and miners. Imaginative art in historic spaces. A massage in the wilderness. This is the real Tasmania. Imagine it. Discover it. Experience it.

12203

Tasmania’s iconic destinations are just a click away. Call 1800 656 111 or book online.

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...a timely reminder of just how beautiful our world can be for those with the eye to perceive.

The Wilderness Gallery The Wilderness Gallery would be a signiďŹ cant attraction in any of the major cities of the world, but its actual location is somehow completely appropriate.

With displays of 250 pictures in 10 linked rooms arranged around a central enclosed garden, it is the largest privately-owned gallery dedicated to photography in the southern hemisphere, rivaled in the northern hemisphere only by the Ansel Adams Gallery in Yosemite National Park, California. In 2003 Peter Dombrovskis

followed Ansel Adams as an inductee in the International Photography Hall of Fame, and was the ďŹ rst Australian to achieve that honour. His deďŹ nitive work featuring the Tasmanian wilderness is recognised with a permanent display.

A changing program of exhibitions by leading contemporary photographers from around the world showcases the very best of environmental photography, and in a perfect prelude to spectacular Cradle Mountain down the road, is a timely reminder of just how beautiful our world can be for those with the eye to perceive.

Nestled in National Park Sites from $25 Cabins from $112 Backpacker Beds from $30 $BNQ LJUDIFO Â&#x2026; 4IPQ .PVOUBJO CJLFT *OUFSOFU BDDFTT 12

The Western Wilderness

The Wilderness Gallery, Cradle Mountain Chateau. George Apostolidis

HOLIDAY PARKS

Cradle Mountain $SBEMF .U 3E $SBEMF .PVOUBJO

Phone: 03 6492 1395

www.discoveryholidayparks.com.au

The world-famous Overland Track The â&#x20AC;&#x153;Overland Trackâ&#x20AC;? is one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s great walks. At approximately 70 km from Cradle Mountain to Lake St. Clair, it lies entirely within the World Heritage Wilderness Area, reaching through moors and rainforests, and past waterfalls, lakes and mountains.

Much of it is board-walked, and the trail is now so popular that in the summer months, a permit system limits the number of walkers at any one time.

There are several choices of how to go. You can earn your stripes as an uncompromised adventurer carrying 20 kg or so, with tent and supplies for the six day duration, perhaps ďŹ nding room to overnight occasionally in the public huts along the way. Or you can book the more indulgent option to join a guided tour carrying no more than a light pack, and enjoy excellent meals with ďŹ ne wines in private cabins with hot showers, a pleasure greatly enhanced by a hard day on the trail. Though the emphasis clearly differs, both options are equally satisfying.

Sharing a sense of real achievement, the probability is that companions will become friends as the walk unfolds through an area of outstanding natural beauty and unimaginable antiquity. The sustained physical effort of a multiday hike strengthens, cleanses and invigorates the body, calms the chatter of mind and creates space for the more subtle and powerful experience that immersion in nature can allow; a deep harmony of spirit, a rediscovery of nothing less than the miracle of life, and a sense of joy.

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(top) The Overland Track; (below) The Overland Track overnight camp. Don Fuchs

discovertasmania.com

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The Tarkine These trees, some 60 metres high and 1000 years old are pure antiquity.

Temperate rainforest is extremely rare.

As the largest temperate rainforest in Australia, and the second largest in the world, the Tarkine is a precious place indeed. But there is even more in the treasure trove of the Tarkineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 377,000 hectares than rainforest alone. Dry eucalypt forest, mixed forest, riverbank, heathland and moorland are all included too, with over 2000 hectares of wet eucalypts, where trees average more than 40 metres high.

Rare huon pine can be found growing at the Tarkineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s southern reaches along the Pieman River, and its northern boundary is marked by another river - the Arthur River. The Murchison Highway loosely deďŹ nes the eastern boundary, and the wild west coast is its western extremity, where gigantic waves from the Southern Ocean pound rugged rocks or burst on to kilometres of deserted ďŹ ne-sand beaches and undulating dunes. These coastal heathlands conceal Aboriginal middens, accumulated by the Tarkiner people over 30 millenia.

From exposed mountains to intricate caves, the Tarkine is vast and rich, but the most enduring memories are forged in the rainforests. Step from the track and immediately there is quiet.

The air is suddenly cooler, the musty dankness of decay intermingles with the pungent fragrance of cool-climate herb and spice. Every surface is home to a shade of green, as fungi, mosses and lichens, lustrous in the gloom, cloak fallen branch and living trunk in a celebration of life. Sassafras, celery-top pine and leatherwood reach skyward but are dwarfed by the grand old men of the forest - the great myrtle-beech. These trees, some 60 metres high and 1000 years old are pure antiquity, so enduring that often great burls or galls erupt from their trunks. Somehow in their passive magniďŹ cence, in their simple â&#x20AC;&#x153;beingnessâ&#x20AC;?, they hold the stillness of the forest, and the spirit of the Tarkine itself, intact.

For more information visit tasmaniasnorthwest.com.au

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14

The Western Wilderness

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Waratah Corinna A town built of tin The charming hut in the middle of Waratah, once occupied by James ‘Philosopher’ Smith, is a relatively modest monument to a man whose discovery of tin in 1871, at the foot of Mount Bischoff, led to the establishment of the world’s richest tin mine. To service the mine, Waratah quickly developed into a substantial town with three hotels and a population of some 2000 people, and when a 78 km rail-link to the port at Burnie was completed in June 1884, the town enjoyed a rumbustious prosperity, at least until the mine closed in 1935.

Day walks and guided walks in the Tarkine There are many walking choices in the Tarkine. To experience the majesty of wilderness by immersion in the forest, or along the coast, consider a fully supported guided tour over several days with the passionate founders of Tarkine Trails. Alternatively, stay at Corinna and do some easy short walks or pack a lunch and enjoy one of the many longer self guided walks.

Tarkine Lookout. Eli Greig

Though smaller scale mining developments continue, there is in Waratah a sense of faded glory, but the town is rescued from the forlorn by one extraordinary and dominant feature in its centre - the Waratah Falls. If you look one side of the bridge across the Waratah River, you will see a serene lake that overflows gently in a puddling current beneath your feet. Look the other side, or better, continue on around the curving road to the lookout provided for the purpose, and you will see a gushing torrent that divides and fans into separate channels that crash down a blackened cliff face to feed the river below in a great forested ravine that reaches to a distant bend.

Near the bridge is the notable Bischoff Hotel, and an excellent display in the site of the Kenworthy Stamper Mill gives a good account of the town, its mining history, and an insight into the cheerful resilience of its people.

Native Waratah. Ken Boundy

At home in the wilderness Heading north from Strahan, the road stops abruptly at the southern bank of the Pieman River, where a prominently displayed button summons the “Fatman” barge for the 130 metre crossing to the tiny township of Corinna on the other side. Sometimes the rain falls with an insistent thrum, but often the resort is shrouded in a cathedral-like stillness so complete that any chance sound reverberates across the mirroring surface of the Pieman with a bell-like clarity.

It was once much noisier. At its peak from the mid 1870s to the early 1880s, Corinna was home to 2,500 people, two hotels and a post office, but when the gold ran out, the population was reduced to just one person, the ferryman, for 38 solitary years. Encircled by the ancient trees of the Tarkine, the township has been revitalised as a remote eco-tourism haven in the rainforest, where a converted roadworker’s shack and several original miners’ cottages are complemented by self-catering accommodation in 14 modern cabins, and meals are served in the newly-built Tarkine Hotel.

The essential Corinna experience is a 20 km (and return) day-trip along the Pieman in the 1939 huon pine river cruiser Arcadia II to Pieman Head, where the river meets the storm-wracked Southern Ocean at a white sand beach.

Alternatively, kayaks can be hired allowing visitors an even more intimate river experience.

Corinna. Tony Sermack

discovertasmania.com

15

1 HOUR FROM

THE TOP OF THE WORLD

13 17 13 www.rex.com.au

Tullah, Rosebery and Zeehan Towns rich in mining history With the hills around it often shrouded in mist, Tullah sits peacefully next to Lake Rosebery, at the foot of a 712m mountain.

In common with most of the other nearby towns, Tullah owed its origins to mining when silver-lead ore was discovered in 1892 by Thomas Farrell, who gave his name to the mountain, and initially to the township too. These days after a pleasant drive along the Murchison Highway, it’s surprising to learn that until 1963, the only mechanised access to Tullah was by the

Emu Bay Railway, an experience that can be relived aboard the “Wee Georgie Wood” steam locomotive, for a 1.6 km train ride from the middle of town.

Tullah is mentioned in the novel “The Sound of One Hand Clapping”, by Richard Flanagan, who grew up in the still active mining town of Rosebery, home to Tasmania’s highest waterfall, Montezuma Falls. Interviewed in November 2008 by Philip Adams, Flanagan observed: “A writer belongs to two countries. He belongs to the place where he was born and grew up, and that marks you for ever…but you also belong to the universe

“A writer belongs to two countries. He belongs to the place where he was born and grew up, and that marks you for ever … but you also belong to the universe of books, and you must be open to both those things”. Richard Flanagan

of books, and you must be open to both those things”.

In an extended family united by a passion for story, the sensibilites of this great Australian writer were fashioned by the dense mysteries of the rainforest, the savage beauty of the rivers and the stark majesty of the mountains that shaped the world of his childhood in Rosebery, and gave inspiration to his imagination.

Zeehan is the third in this triumvirate of mining towns. Little remains to suggest the history of many west coast townships, but in the late 19th century, Zeehan was Tasmania’s third largest town. This status is evident in some of its buildings, most notably the restored Gaiety Theatre, and in the extraordinary museum that records not only Zeehan’s past, but also the origins and fates of many other west coast mining ventures too.

Some 25,000 people every year visit the West Coast Pioneers Museum, and leave inspired by the passion that has achieved this great collection. Its 13 galleries include a priceless collection of crocoite amongst many other exotic mineral crystals, exhibits on flora and fauna and photography, to great steam locomotives in the sheds outside.

(clockwise from top) Lake Rosebery.

Joe Shemesh; West Coast Pioneer Museum. Rick Eaves; The Gaiety Theatre.

Rick Eaves

discovertasmania.com

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Strahan and the Gordon River Cruise capital of the wilderness The nineteenth-century terrace of buildings, now used as pubs, shops and cafes, are dwarfed by the giant catamarans moored at jetties across the street, as the sun sets over the silky black vastness of Macquarie Harbour and the street lights flicker on in picture-pretty Strahan. This is truly a place of stories, but as the sleek Gordon River cruisers attest, hearing them is made easy for the visitor, adding layers of interest to experiences that would be worthwhile for their recreational content alone. Since the Europeans arrived, many of the forces that have shaped Tasmanian history in general, have found particular expression in this remote west coast township, starting with the discovery of Macquarie Harbour by the whaler/adventurer, Captain James Kelly, in 1815.

For tens of thousands of years, Aboriginals had lived in small groups or “bands”,

18

The Western Wilderness

identifying with a larger community or “tribe”, through language, customs, and intermarriage. Though the area was also visited by other bands, the “Toogee” or “South–west” tribe” lived in the Macquarie Harbour region, migrating every year along the coast to the far north and back, crossing waterways with canoes fashioned from bundles of bark. Living in harmony with the land and its seasons, they ate shellfish, seals, penguins and mutton birds, and were among the last to actively resist the loss of their homelands.

A harsh convict settlement was established by the British on Sarah Island in Macquarie Harbour in 1822. Logging and boat building became the convicts’ trade using the Huon pine that grew abundantly in the area, though after the penal colony closed in 1830, the forests continued to attract timber workers. By 1900, Strahan had became Tasmania’s third-largest port servicing the inland copper and lead mines, but the population declined to 300

after the facility was closed in 1970, leaving fishing for abalone, crayfish and shark as the major commercial occupation. Tourism was limited mainly to some cruising on the Gordon River.

The worldwide publicity from environmental protests in 1982 over the plan to dam the Franklin, and the declaration of a World Heritage Area on its doorsteps, were to change Strahan yet again. These days, Strahan teems with visitors, the sky buzzes with the sounds of seaplanes or helicopters, speedboats and yachts ply the harbour, and people fly from interstate to spend a day on the renowned ‘Piners and Miners’ guided day tour of the west coast.

The popularity of these activities necessitates forward planning by visitors to ensure they allow enough time in Strahan, and that they book both their accommodation and activities in advance.

Macquarie Harbour, Strahan. George Apostolidis

Macquarie Harbour & Sarah Island Through a wilderness of compelling beauty, a Gordon River cruise transports passengers to another world, with amazing stories of the many different people who have lived in and around Strahan, and of the invincibility of the pioneering spirit.

The commentary entertains and informs as the boat speeds across the sheltered waters of Macquarie Harbour which, though six times the size of Sydney Harbour, is connected to the tempestuous Southern Ocean beyond by a channel of just 80m in width, with the evocative title of Hellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Gates. After a ride on the high seas, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s back for a fast crossing of the length of the harbour, before the speed drops dramatically at the mouth of the Gordon River. Darkened by tannins that have leached into the water from deep within the SW Wilderness, the riverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surface reďŹ&#x201A;ects the rainforest in mirrorperfect symmetry during a tranquil glide to Heritage Landing. Here, passengers disembark for a board walk stroll through the ancient trees. Incredibly, one 2000 year old giant, though it has fallen, still has saplings growing strong.

At Heritage Landing passengers can witness the departure of guests who have elected to break away from the cruise for a guided kayak tour back down the Gordon.

Awe, fascination, relaxation and pleasure, the emotions are many as we return to Strahan...

A buffet is served on the boat, before an interlude on Sarah Island, to walk amongst the ruins of one of Australia's most hellish convict settlements. The experience is enriched by the guide, whose performance has enough feeling, vigour and conviction to resurrect a colourful cast of characters and add life to their sometimes horrible histories.

Awe, fascination, relaxation and pleasure, the emotions are many as we return to Strahan, to complete a day of magic and of promise fulďŹ lled.

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Sarah Island Guided Tour. Rick Eaves

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discovertasmania.com

19

Sawmilling and Woodworking Snowy Morrison left school at 14 to join his father in the Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill on the waterfront, one of just four that still mill the precious timber.

His own son works alongside him now, the fourth generation of Morrisons in the family business. In his 60s, Snowy has seen changes over the years, though the timbers remain the same. “Now you have the craft industry, everything is used”, he explains.

The Strahan Woodworks Gallery is as smooth, opulent and subtly lit as the mill next door is rough, ready, and open.

Sensuous shapes, polished and inviting in sassafras, huon pine and myrtle are formed into platters, bowls, spoons, vases and occasional oversize statuary, so inviting as to compel a caress.

Timmy Halton is 27 and has worked as woodturner for the past eight years.

Myrtle is his favourite. “ It can be cricketball red, or yellow, grey, green, pink or brown. You don’t know what you’ve got till you cut it open - it’s like opening a present every day”.

West Coast Wilderness Railway The West Coast Wilderness Railway is an engineering marvel. It was built to carry heavy equipment out to the mines in Queenstown and bring copper back to Strahan, covering 35 kilometres and crossing no fewer than 40 bridges.

Some of the intervening hills are very steep, but with an ingenious toothed third rail that engages with a cog system under the locomotive, known as the “Abt” after its Swiss inventor, it can pull itself up inclines impossible for ordinary trains. After 67 years of operation the railway was dismantled in 1963, nature rapidly reclaiming the line as its own.

The sawmill and gallery are open seven days.

Strahan Woodworks. Rick Eaves

Cosy & comfortable Sites from $25 & Cabins from $95 $BNQ LJUDIFO *OUFSOFU BDDFTT 1MBZHSPVOE ##2T

HOLIDAY PARKS

Strahan $OS "OESFX *OOFT 4USFFUT 4USBIBO

Phone: 03 6472 6200

www.discoveryholidayparks.com.au 20

The Western Wilderness

The clackety-clack, billowing clouds and shrieking whistle from the steam engine make for an unforgettable day trip.

Now the railway is restored, the formidable terrain that originally presented such difďŹ culties ensures an exhilarating journey through dense rainforest, past cavernous gorges, rushing rivers and toy-town stations.

The clackety-clack, billowing clouds and shrieking whistle from the steam engine make for an unforgettable day trip, a unique fusion of fairground fun, immersion in nature and history revisited. The train runs in both directions between Strahan and Queenstown.

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West Coast Wilderness Railway. Image courtesy of Pure Tasmania

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Advance bookings are highly recommended.

discovertasmania.com

21

Tasmania’s most regarded writer, Richard Flanagan worked as a guide on the Franklin River.

river in a rubber raft in 1976, its precious

past and prophesying its future in massive

beauty gave him the resolve to spearhead

gorges slicing through mountains and cliffs

the successful fight against the plan to dam

so undercut they call them verandahs, and

For many, rafting the Franklin is even more

the river, a campaign that saw him give up

in eroded boulders and beautiful gilded

than the sum of its parts. The wilderness

his career as a GP and become a committed

eggs of river stone, and in beaches of gravel

is at its most magnificent as the river flows

environmental activist and Green politician.

that shift year to year, flood to flood...”

Tasmania’s most regarded writer, Richard

Today expedition companies are busy

of 1400m down to almost sea level. A wild

Flanagan worked as a guide on the Franklin

guiding interstate city dwellers and

land of proud mountain peaks with skirts of

River. Inspired by his own transformative

international visitors down the Franklin to

dense rainforest and steep-walled gorges

experiences he wrote a novel, “Death of a

experience the river’s majesty first-hand.

gashed by untamed rivers that can flow as

River Guide”, that became an international

raging torrents - this is nature at its least

bestseller. In it he describes the river thus:

Rafting the Franklin

for 120km from the Cheyne Range to join the placid Gordon River, from an altitude

forgiving, and the rewards for accepting its challenge are commensurately high.

“This is the river. Rising in the Cheyne Range. Falling down Mt Gell. Writhing like

Some speak of the experience as life-

a snake in the wild lands at the base of the

changing. For Bob Brown, who rafted the

huge massif of Frenchman’s Cap. Writing its

Franklin River Rafting. Matthew Newton

Hidden treasures Beds from $25 & Private rooms from $35pp $BNQ LJUDIFO ##2T *OUFSOFU BDDFTT 22

The Western Wilderness

HOLIDAY PARKS

Strahan Backpackers )BSWFZ 4USFFU 4USBIBO

Phone: 03 6472 6211

www.discoveryholidayparks.com.au

Explore the World Heritage Wilderness Gordon River, Strahan

Photographer: Joe Shemesh

Photographer: Joe Shemesh

Have an adventure in pristine rainforest Montezuma Falls, Rosebery

Lakeside, Tullah

Miners Siding Queenstown

Amazing towns entrenched in mining history

West Coast Wilderness Railway Station, Queenstown

Uncover the riches of Queenstown

West Coast Pioneers Museum, Zeehan Photographer: Joe Shemesh

www.westernwilderness.com.au West Coast Visitor Information Centre ph. 1800 352 200

Queenstown Queenstown greets visitors with an ingenious sign, its letters cut through a sheet of untreated iron, the ochres, reds and oranges of the rust echoing the more muted tints of the bare mineralrich mountains that surround it. As the ďŹ ne museum amply records, it is ďŹ rst and foremost a mining town, whose main street resembles a movie set with the occasional example of creaking nineteenth century pub, or more substantial civic building. At one end is the Abt Railway terminal past the Empire Hotel, at the other end is the mountain.

the human intervention so extensive it provokes marvel at its wantonness as if deďŹ antly appropriate to the grandeur of the topography. With the soaring shapes of the mountains laid bare in the way that a B&W photograph emphasises form over texture, a rich palette of creams and lilacs are revealed in the subtle hues of the stone. Above it all is Mount Lyell, dressed in salmon pink and waiting for the sunset to suffuse it with a display of brilliant colour, in an unlikely and glorious collaboration of the industrial and the natural worlds.

After the lushness of west coast forest, the ďŹ rst sight of Queenstownâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s barren surrounds can be unsettling. The hills around are the antithesis of wilderness, yet have an airy wildness and a liberating sense of scale that stirs the imagination,

Underground and above ground mine tours are available and bookings are recommended.

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(above) The Galley Museum, Queenstown. Rick Eaves

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24

The Western Wilderness

Living Art in a Mining Town As a tutor and lecturer at the Tasmanian School of Art in the eighties, Raymond Arnold had ample opportunity to indulge his passion for bush walking and nurture an increasing familiarity with the south and west coasts of Tasmania. His interests, reďŹ&#x201A;ected in his art at that time, concerned the relationships between industry and nature, and the interaction of human activity and landscape.

After several years based in Paris, this internationally recognised artist now lives in Queenstown where he has established â&#x20AC;&#x153;Landscape Art Research Queenstownâ&#x20AC;?, (LARQ) a cultural landmark in the town. This not-for-proďŹ t studio/gallery exists as a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;wildernessâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; art space where Arnold can pursue his own art practice. The gallery is open to the public February to June. (above) Landscape Art Research Gallery, Queenstown. Rick Eaves

Lake St Clair Leewuleena (Sleeping Water) There are some places which though they are in landscapes of exceptional loveliness, are more than just beautiful.

They have a quality of signiďŹ cance too, their location is not arbitrary, but intended and satisfying. Lake St Clair is such a place.

Is it history that speaks, or some other energy, as the breeze ripples the surface, etching dancing lines across Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s deepest freshwater lake? Teasing the summits, the blue sky holds an occasional ďŹ&#x201A;uff of candyďŹ&#x201A;oss cloud, an ethereal companion to residues of snow in the scratched gullies on the mountain ďŹ&#x201A;anks, above the eucalypts that frame the lake.

The trees gently sway, their branches lightly touching as a loverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s caress, to the music of the leaves that whisper and hum the secrets of the forest.

There are walks here, most famously the Overland Track, but shorter options too. Trout ďŹ shing is popular in season with a permit, and a ferry runs the 13km to Narcissus Bay from near the visitorsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; centre, with its restaurant and informative displays.

The Aboriginals, attuned to its mysteries, called the lake â&#x20AC;&#x153;Leewuleenaâ&#x20AC;? or â&#x20AC;&#x153;Sleeping Waterâ&#x20AC;?. They, too, would have looked across at the same mountains under the same everchanging sky. In a world transformed, Lake St Clair slumbers on.

Derwent Bridge The Wall When wood-sculptor Greg Duncan, visiting from South Australia, ďŹ rst saw Derwent Bridge, he had the strong sense that this was where he should live.

He made an offer on land which was accepted, fully nine years later.

He has called it â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Wallâ&#x20AC;? and this work in progress, is open to the public to view.

His work is phenomenally affecting, achieved by reconciling impossible opposites, with masterful technical precision. The scenes are highly stylised and not true to life at all, but have so much tactile realism and ďŹ&#x201A;uidity that if the ďŹ gures were to step from the wall, it

In 2005, Greg started a monumental

would hardly surprise - an extraordinary

art project - a great frieze illustrating

achievement, and a landmark on the

Tasmaniaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rural life and history, carved

road from Strahan to Hobart.

in huon pine. Each panel is 3 metres high and when completed in 10 years time, it will be 100 metres in length.

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discovertasmania.com

25

Tarraleah Hydro meets art deco Turning off the Lyell Highway at the sign to Tarraleah, two silver gray pipes, each a couple of metres in height, run parallel for a kilometre in front of you, plunging over the crest of a hill as abruptly as they had appeared. On the hill-top is a quaint township of gleaming weatherboarded houses, bright and fresh in pastel shades of pink, lilac, and mauve, with a lodge

and tiny church arranged around a village square, complete with statue and bubbling fountain.

In this land of forest and scrub, mountain, lake and rushing river, it is the power of water, and its transmutation to electricity, that were the reasons for Tarraleahâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s creation. The town was built in the 1930s by the Hydro-Electric Commission and was home to many thousands of immigrant workers. They came to build the dams and canals supplying the huge turbines of

Tungatinah and Tarraleah power stations in the valleys below. When the work was done most of the dwellings were demolished.

In 2002 a chalet was leased by "Leah from Tarraleah", a professional dominatrix, but before long she left, presumably having failed to â&#x20AC;&#x153;whip upâ&#x20AC;? sufďŹ cient interest.

Tarraleah is now a leading resort offering ďŹ&#x201A;y ďŹ shing, golf and a bar that boasts 120 malt whiskeys.

Highland Cattle. Image courtesy of Tarraleah

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26

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Read a good book before you go on holiday Tasmania is extraordinarily diverse, ďŹ ve unique Holiday Planners are available to help you explore the best experiences that Tasmania has to oďŹ&#x20AC;er.

discovertasmania.com | 1300 TASSIE THIS BROCHURE IS PUBLISHED BY Cradle Coast Authority (CCA) and Tourism Tasmania on behalf of the Western Wilderness Zone Marketing Group. CCA has made every endeavour to ensure that details are correct at the time of printing (January 2009) but can accept no responsibility for any inaccuracy or mis-description contained in this brochure as a result of information supplied, and can accept no responsibility for subsequent change or withdrawal of details or services. Š2009 CRADLE COAST AUTHORITY.

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