Art & Couture

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MORALMODA HAUTE JOAILLERIE ISSUE NO.30/2020

MAGAZINE

2020 Haute Couture and Haute Joaillerie

Leona König

Guardian of Art in Monaco cover-story

Photographs by Irina Valeri adorned with Chopard Haute Joaillerie

I Francesca Cartier Brickell nterviews:

Margo Raffaelli Jatin Patel Contributors:

Shalini Passi Elisabeth von Thurn und Taxis MORALMODA | MAGAZINE


WWW.CHOPARD.COM

T R I P S

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D L R O W D E R C A S

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M I L L E N I A L

T S U L R E D N A W

T R A V E L

B A C K P A C K E R


WWW.CHOPARD.COM

EXPECT NOTHING LESS Since 1854

PERSONAL DELIVERY

T R A V E L

T R I P S

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M O R E

D L R O W E H T

Gübelin’s gift to you – Personal Delivery Service and a floral greeting. All the jewellery pieces presented here are available in Gübelin boutiques as well as the Gübelin E-Boutique. With this free service, trained Gübelin employees bring your order directly to your door – at any address in Switzerland. Ideal for having Valentine`s Day gifts delivered to special locations, such as a snowcovered chalet or your favourite hotel. In addition, all “Personal Delivery” orders placed at this time will include a floral surprise especially created to accompany your selection. We offer this special service on the same day for all orders placed before 10 a.m.

F O S T O P S T O H D E R C A S From 1 February to 14 February 2020, the House of Gübelin offers free Personal Delivery Service for every order from its E-Boutique along with a floral greeting especially created to accompany the product.© 2020 Gübelin - All rights reserved

Gübelin Boutique Schwanenplatz 7 6004 Lucerne Switzerland www.gubelin.com


© FONDATION DU GRAND PRIX D'HORLOGERIE DE GENÈVE

WATERLILY I WHITE GOLD 18K (FAIRMINED)

RED CARPET COLLECTION

Chopard 1 Place Vendôme WWW.CHOPARD.COM


CHOPARD.COOM /2020 PARIS COUTURE WEEK

Exceptional Stones Triangular-Shaped Paraiba Tourmaline 34.63 cts

HAPPY HEARTS BANGLES I WHITE GOLD 18K (FAIRMINED)

RED CARPET COLLECTION 2019

Chopard

HAUTE JOAILLERIE WWW.CHOPARD.COOM


GOLDEN OASIS HIGH JEWELLERY COLLECTION

©

PIAGET.COM©

MOC.TEGAIP

WWW.PIAGET.COM


Table of Contents

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Swiss Maison Jeweller Chopard unveils new designs for Haute Joaillerie 2020

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IMF: 21 BULGARI 34 IRIS VAN HERPEN

SUBSCRIPTIONS PLEASE DIRECT ALL SUBSCRIPTION INQURIES AND ORDERS TO EMAIL: DESIGNERSYOU@YMAIL.COM. or by WhatsApp, Instagram DM or directly to: Telephone: +46767012609

Ed. Letter

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The Opening of Art Season in Gstaad

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Interview with Francesca Cartier Brickell

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Cover-story: Leona König - IMF

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Interview with author and consultant Margo Raffaelli

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The Cartier's symbol la Panthère 19

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THE ANIMAL BALL 2019

Interview with designer Jatin Patel 21 Paris Haute Couture week 2020 New Haute Couture 2020 in Paris 22 Interview: Zhang Egli in Zürich 28 Frieze Art. Review: Shalini Passi 29 The IMF – Foundation for the Musically Highly Gifted Children 30 HEALTH: Princess Elisabeth von 31 Thurn und Taxis 32 Burbiskis Manor: ‘The Great Gatsby’

MORALMODA MAGAZINE is World’s first & only publication dedicated to sustainable luxury & art; with exclusive interviews and luxury news from world's top luxury destinations. Teams in Dubai, Geneva, Los Angeles, New York, Istanbul, London and Paris, To order this issue or subscribe mail: moralmodamag@gmail.com Digital issues on Webpage: www.issuu.com/moralmoda Unique visitors at web-site MJanuary 2020 143589. Layout: Canva Design Print: Majornas Grafiska. Printed in Sweden Copyright 2020. NERMIN AHMET MANAGING EDITOR & FOUNDER EMRE ERTURK LIFESTYLE EDITOR PHAM N. DIEP DESIGN DIRECTOR RAQUEL H.H. DIAZ FINE JEWELLERY SHALINI PASSI ART & DESIGN CONTRIBUTOR POUL-ERIK LIMQUIST DEPUTY EDITOR PER NIELSEN CONTENT STRATEGIST ANWAR SUNALLAH AD OPERATIONS, DUBAI, UAE MARWAN HAFFAR RESEARCH EDITOR TOVE MCCNEY DIGITAL PUBLISHING ISSUU, INC. PREIDENT JOE HYRKIN, PRESIDENT ROLF USSING, JOHN ST URINO, VP OF PRODUCT MANAGEMENT AND OPERATIONS, E RIK JUHL VP OF ENGINEERING, PALO ALTO, CA, OFFICES IN COPENHAGEN, BERLIN AND NEW YORK CITY.


© The cover page Leona König in Haute Couture. Photographed by Irina V.

Editor's Letter Dear reader, thank you for taking part in the information provided in this issue highlighting art and high jewellery. This issue dedicated to extraordinary friends of art, and philanthropy, we are most grateful to be able to feature our second exclusive Monaco cover-story, (featuring Chopard's High Jewellery on the cover for the second time), where DI Chairwoman Leona König unveils the 2020 programme of her art Foundation and 2020 Goldene Note prize design by Maison Chopard. This partnership is significant, since social responsibility remains top of mind for luxury customers and encompasses more than just environmental impact: according to latest study by the Italian Altagamma Worldwide Luxury Market Monitor by Bain & Company, "80 percent of luxury customers say they prefer brands that are socially responsible." In 2019, both the total luxury market and personal luxury goods segment increased by 4 %, to an estimated total of €1.3 trillion globally out of which €281 billion came from the latter segment. The average luxury customers are getting younger and more demanding with brands which will force them to innovate both their business models and value propositions (18th edition of the Bain & Company Luxury Study). For our readers looking to obtain great insight in s ustainable luxury travel and leisure we cover most anticipated new resorts and openings in 2020 around the globe, news and lifestyle events; priceless Renaissance art, rarest and responsibly sourced gem stones, exhibitions and art programme for the collectors.

of luxury '80 % customers say they prefer

The cover page featuring Leona König in Monte-Carlo, Monaco, which is not only most glamorous setting, but also world´s pioneer Principality in sustainable development. All rights reserved to the image holder. (All reproduction illegal). Photographer: Irina Valeri.

This collectors Issue no. 30, holds our careful selection from world´s leading eco-luxury brands. For the reader we unveil not only luxury progress but also the ethics and the moral discourse within the industry and we as World's first magazine dedicated to sustainable luxury and art, have narrowed our selection to few of world´s leading brands that share our values for sustainable luxury and moral, such as Maison Chopard, Gübelin, Piaget, Six Senses, Sacher Hotels, Jumeirah Group, Boutallion, Anna Hu, and all who demand high ethical standards. Last but not the least, I am most grateful and proud to feature images by Irina Valeri and text submitted from world renown and esteemed experts, our contributors Mrs Shalini Passi, based in New Delhi and HH Princess Elisabeth von Thurn und Taxis, based in Rome and Ms Raquel Helena Hernandez Diaz, based in Madrid. Special thanks to the Jewellery Expert and Historian Adriano Davoli.

oneandonlyresorts.com

Moralmoda Magazine© takes no responsibility for claims made in advertising in this magazine. No images may be reproduced or copied in any way.

OPENING JUNE 2020

www.oneandonlyresorts.com

brands that are socially responsible"

Thank You for reading Nermin Ahmet Managing Ed./Executive M.


Gstaad hosts Holzer & Picasso

CinemArt A cinematic journey into the world of art 29 Decemeber 2019 - 21 February 2020 Ciné-Theater Gstaad Suterstrasse 6, 3780 Gstaad, Switzerland

Center image and below: Jenny Holzer. A LITTLE KNOWLEDGE Tarmak 22, Gstaad27 December 2019-22 January 2020 Courtesy all images: © Jenny Holzer. ARS, NY and DACS, London 2019

Holzer’s texts address war, oppression, gender, power by presenting them in media associated with advertising. Holzer will unveil new projections on the Gstaad Palace in 2020 but her first outdoor xenon projection on the bank of the Arno River in Florence was in 1996. Since then her powerful art has illuminated culturally significant locations including the Spanish Steps in Rome, the Musée du Louvre in Paris, New York’s Rockefeller Center, London City Hall, and the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao. The projections for Gstaad, A LITTLE KNOWLEDGE , include Holzer’s Truisms in Italian English, French and German language. Tarmak 22 exhibits a varied selection of Holzer’s artworks, including the LED sign SWORN STATEMENT, which includes text from a 2004 United States Army Criminal Investigation Command document that looked into reports of abuse at Gardez Fire Base, an American outpost in Afghanistan. Various witnesses were interviewed – Afghan detainees, doctors, and American soldiers, but in the end, investigators ruled in favour of the US soldiers and concluded no wrongdoing had taken place. Holzer extracts these statements and displays them on the LED, in scrolling text.

CinemArt is a film series presented by Hauser & Wirth in collaboration with the Ciné-Theater in Gstaad. A special programme open to the public will offer unique insights into the lives and work of significant international contemporary and modern artists, including a selection connected to Hauser & Wirth’s programme. Featured artists and well-known personalities from the art world include Jenny Holzer, Alberto Giacometti, Wilhelm and Anka Sasnal, Dieter Roth, Frida Khalo, Rashid Johnson, Pablo Picasso and Joan Miró. More information on the website: www.cine-theater.ch/programm Art lights up Gstaad Holzer's art will light up the Gstaad and landscape: she will project large, scrolling texts in light on the iconic Gstaad Palace Hotel white castle-like facade, projections will then take place daily between 7 – 8.30 pm until 17 February 2020. The projections are made possible with the generous support of Maja Hoffmann of the Luma Foundation and Alex Hank. Beginning in the 1970s with posters throughout New York City and continuing through recent light projections, her practice rivals ignorance with humour, and violence with kindness.

All images outdoor of the Palace Hotel: Jenny Holzer ‘A LITTLE KNOWLEDGE CAN GO A LONG WAY’ 2019 Light projections on the Gstaad Palace© Jenny Holzer. ARS, NY and DACS, London 2019 Courtesy the artist and Hauser & Wirth

'A LITTLE KNOWLEDGE’ is part of three major exhibitions by Hauser & Wirth across Gstaad and St. Moritz. Starting with ‘Calder’, a solo presentation by Alexander Calder at Hauser & Wirth St. Moritz, on view from the 13 December 2019 to 9 February 2020. In Gstaad the gallery hosts an exhibition of Picasso’s ceramic works alongside photographs taken of the artist in his studio by David Douglas Duncan at Le Vieux Chalet, open from 3 February through to the 28 February 2020 (open to the public on Wednesdays and Thursdays 2 – 5pm and by appointment). MORALMODA MAGAZINE - ART


THE SAGA OF THE CARTIERS HOW AN EMPIRE GOT BUILT ON JEWELS UNVEILED BY FRANCESCA CARTIER BRICKELL

Francesca Cartier Brickell, decade-long independent research of "The Cartiers: The Untold Story Of The Family Behind The Jewelry Empire" is the great-great-great-grandaughter to Louis François Cartier, the founder of Cartier luxury brand in the year 1847. In her publication the author presents results of her decade-long research about the groundbreaking jewellery brand and the four generations of the Cartiers, initiating with the founder and his three sons Louis, Pierre and Jacques Cartier. One can write history on luxury, and who made what, but this generation of the Cartiers is still remembered for its contributions, their story states how Cartier became famous, through unique inventions and research in savoir-faire that established Cartier's business, and evolved luxury design in general.

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oday, still as iconic as when they were created by younger Cartiers, their design ideas remain relevant even over a century later. Still celebrated today is Santos de Cartier - the first wristwatch for men, which Louis Cartier made for an aviator friend of his, Alberto Santos-Dumont. Santos was unable to check his pocket watch with his hands on the controls of his flying machine. And Louis got the idea of attaching a first timepiece to the wrist. Santos then, in his role of brand ambassador, made it acceptable for a man to wear a watch. This was huge catalyst for the evolution of watch and luxury industry. The Cartiers' motto was 'Never copy, only create', so anything could be used for inspiration except existing jewelry. Pierre Cartier who was the middle brother, had phenomenal trading skills, like selling a double-stranded pearl necklace for a building in New York, which today houses Cartier's 5th Avenue headquarters. And Jacques travelled in India, bringing back gems and inspiration from the East. MM: For this book, you were researching the history of your ancestors for over a decade. What was the most surprising to learn for you? FCB: There was so much to learn! After all, I was studying the lives of four generations of Cartiers, trying to unravel the story of the family and the firm they owned for well over a century. This involved deciphering long-forgotten documents, often with spidery French handwriting. Along the way, I discovered intriguing stories of robberies, affairs, tragic, hushed-up deaths and arranged marriages. But perhaps most surprisingly, I learnt how important the Cartier women were to the history. Though it is often assumed that Cartier’s success as a family firm was down to

MORALMODA MAGAZINE NO. 30

2 THE CARTIERS offers a behind-the-scenes look at the firm's most iconic jewellery—the notoriously cursed Hope Diamond, the Romanov emeralds, the classic panther pieces—and the long line of stars from the worlds of fashion, film, and royalty who wore them. It is also a compelling family story. It tells of Louis Cartier, the visionary designer who created the first men's wristwatch to help an aviator friend, and Pierre Cartier, the master dealmaker who bought the New York headquarters on Fifth Avenue for a double-stranded natural pearl necklace. And Jacques Cartier, the globetrotting gemstone expert whose travels to India gave Cartier access to the world's best rubies, emeralds, and sapphires, inspiring the celebrated Tutti-Frutti jewellery.

the talents and ambition of the Cartier men (and I include myself in having had that assumption), actually, if it hadn’t been for the Cartier women and the strategic marriages that were made, the business likely would not have survived the early years, and would not have made it into the big league, catering to European kings and queens, the Maharajas and the Romanovs As an example of the impact of strategic marriages, when John Pierpont Morgan heard that the then-relatively-unknown Louis Cartier was about to marry the 16-year-old grand-daughter of his late friend, the couturier Charles-Frederick Worth, he called for the groom, bought $50,000 of jewels on the spot and promised him his good custom going forward. MM: Maison Cartier grew to become one of the most renowned luxury brands ever. How could the family business reach such success internationally (in an era when the luxury news spread much slower)? FCB: In the period of family ownership, it was mostly the third generation of Cartiers, the three brothers Louis, Pierre and Jacques, who managed to elevate the small family firm out of Paris and onto the international stage in the early 20th century. They went global before the era of globalisation. They had a magic mix of complementary talents – Louis was a creative genius coming up with innovations like the figurine mystery clocks, Pierre was a master salesman who famously swapped the New York store for a double-stranded string of pearls and Jacques, my great-grandfather, was an artistic gemstone expert who bought back gems from the East - but, as well as that, they also shared a very close bond. It was this bond, my grandfather told me, that was the secret to their success. It meant they could open branches in different corners of the globe, each as master of his own kingdom, while working together for a common goal. They shared everything - from designs to gems to clients - as they worked together to fulfil their shared childhood dream: “to build the leading jewellery firm in the world”. MM: You describe the fantastic libraries that your family built, and you are a literature fan yourself, nevertheless were you surprised by the extent of research that this book required? FCB: Yes! There was a vast amount of research involved – the history of the family and its firm spanned earth-shattering events from World Wars to revolutions to the Great Depression.And I wanted to know the social context in which each character was acting to better understand their decisions and motives, but also to bring it to life for the reader. So, in early 20th century France, I wanted the reader to feel what it was like to be with Louis Cartier in the fashionable Parisian restaurant Maxims, filled with courtesans and


other beautiful ladies. During the First World War, it was a different picture entirely: the brothers feared their dream might never be realised, one of them was gassed at the Front, the others tried to hold together the business in 1 near-impossible circumstances. For Jacques’ trips to India, meanwhile, I hoped to convey a sense of that awe that he felt while traveling around the country – the depth of the history, the beauty of the temples, the opulence of the palaces, the vividness of the colours. All that involved diving into literature to learn about the history of India and the Maharajas, and of the gem trade at the time.

Left page clockwise: 1. The Author, Francesca Cartier Brickell. 2. The Cartiers' Book Cover. 3. Author looking at 1920s photos (credit: Jonathan James Wilson). Right page clockwise: 1. Author's Grandfather, Jean-Jacques Cartier (credit: FCB). 2. Sir Yadavinder Singh wearing the Patiala Necklace. 3. Cartier diamond watch (private collection). 4. Belle Epoque Cartier tiara (credit: Wartski). 5. Tutti Frutti designs and jewellery (credit: JJW / private collection). 6. Author looking through family archive (credit: JJW). 7. Cartier's Founder, Louis Francois Cartier (credit: FCB).

MM: If the Cartier brothers could read your book, what would you hope they’d think of it? FCB: That is a good question! Because I did try to write the book with them in mind. Reading their personal letters as well as other accounts about them, I came to feel as if I almost knew the three Cartier brothers myself. And I admired them and respected them enormously. Yes, they weren’t perfect (who is?!) but they had a dream and they followed it through to the very best of their ability: they didn’t cut corners and they didn’tsit back being critical of others, they got on with pursuing their ambition. So I hope they would 2 be pleased with how I tried to follow their example. Not by making jewels, but by following my passion – researching and telling their story – and taking the time to do it properly. The Cartiers were true perfectionists:“the best 7 is good enough” was one of the catch phrases that was often used in Cartier. That was in my head as I edited and re-edited and reedited my book! In fact, I could have kept going for months – or years – as there’s always more to add or edit, but my publisher wisely called time! MM: Cartier has very profound links to India. Can you tell us why, and what are you excited to see there next? FCB: Yes, my great-grandfather Jacques Cartier travelled to India many times. He was inspired by the country, espe-cially with what he called his ‘Hindou jewels’ (a style now known as ‘tutti frutti’). I love this quote of his: “Out there everything is flooded with the wonderful Indian sunlight. One does not see as in the English light, he is only conscious that here is a blaze of red, and there of green or yellow. It is all like an impressionistic painting. Nothing is clearly defined, and there is but one vivid impression of undreamed gorgeousness and wealth”. A couple of years ago, when researching the

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book, I travelled around India literally following in his footsteps using his diaries to visit places like Delhi, Mumbai, Baroda and Mussoorie, meeting descendants of those he had known. I was so touched by how welcoming everyone was and I understood why Jacques had fallen in love with the country. This time, it will be great to see again some of those people I met then, but I am also over the moon to launch my book in India! It feels like coming full circle in a way. I have been blown away by the amazing reception the book has received so far - from the likes of the New York Times, the Economist, Forbes, Elle and Harpers - and am very flattered to have been asked to speak about it at the 2020 edition of the Jaipur Literature Festival. Considering my great-grandfather often travelled to Jaipur, I like to think he would be pleased too! Thank You Francesca! 'The Cartiers', is now available in the USA, Europe and India, via Amazon or leading bookstores.


MORALMODA MAGAZINE NO. 30 EXCLUSIVE ART COVER-STORY

CHAIRLADY DI

LEONA KÖNIG UNVEILS NEW GOLDENE NOTE PRIZE AND 2020 PROGRAMME

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n the year 2020, Chairlady DI Leona König, the heart and soul of the International Music Foundation for Highly Gifted Children (IMF), will substantially increase the funding of highly talented up-and-coming musicians within Austria and internationally. Ms König, the founder and chairwoman of the IMF will continue to support the training of young talents regardless of their origin. In addition to the annual funding awards the young finalists and the winner of the talent competition “Golden Note” can in future expect experience alongside invaluable stage established greats of classical music such as Valentina Nafornita, Lidia Baich and Hyung-ki Joo, and even appearances at the Cannes Film Festival and at the Pannonian Forum Kittsee, alongside further musical training in the form of IMF Masterclasses, which are hosted by the Foundation throughout the year. The IMF thus resources to provide dedicates great continuous and long-term support for young talents and the classical music itself. IMF and the Austrian broadcaster ORF III Furthermore, DI Leona König, together with Dr. Alexander Wrabetz announced the media cooperation of the IMF with the culture and information broadcaster ORF III. From Monday, 11 May, ORF III will be presenting the six finalists in short portraits every week at 19.45 in the framework of its weekday culture magazine “Kultur Heute”, and calling for members of the public to vote for an audience award which was first created this year. ORF III will be recording the award ceremony of the “Golden Note” on Friday, 19 June, and broadcasting a 60-minute summary on Sunday, 21 June, in ORF III. The IMF will thus be presenting the young talents to a broad culturally interested audience and supporting its aim of raising awareness of classical music and boosting the enthusiasm of young highly gifted musicians. IMF and Swiss Maison Chopard DI Leona König is also very happy to welcome the Swiss watch and jewellery brand Chopard as a new sponsor of the Foundation. and presented Chopard’s sketch of the trophy for the “Golden Note” 2020 at Foundation's press meeting held recently at the iconic Hotel Sacher in Vienna. Leona König hosted the unveiling of the news and new prize design in the presence of eminent guests, including Juan Diego Flórez, Chamber Singer; Dr. Alexander Wrabetz, General Director of ORF; Lidia Baich, violinist; Hyung-ki Joo, pianist/composer/cabaret artist; Bernhard Ramsauer, member of the Supervisory Board of the National Bank of Liechtenstein; Konstanze Breitebner, actress and script author; Martin Traxl, ORF Head of Culture; Alexandra Winkler, owner of the Hotel Sacher;

“I AM EXTREMELY PROUD TO HAVE BEEN ABLE TO REALISE THIS IDEA SO SUCCESSFULLY AND TO HAVE BEEN ABLE TO GET SO MANY GREAT PEOPLE INTERESTED IN IT, SUCH AS ARTISTS, SPONSORS AND UNIVERSITIES. THE POTENTIAL THAT LIES DORMANT IN THESE YOUNG PEOPLE, THEIR PASSION AND MOVING MUSIC, MUST BE BROUGHT TO A BROAD AUDIENCE – I AM THEREFORE VERY PROUD OF THE MEDIA COOPERATION WITH ORF AND GRATEFUL TO THE MANY OTHER SUPPORTERS.” - DI LEONA KÖNIG, CHAIRLADY IMF Desirée Treichl-Stürgkh, publisher; Ekaterina Mucha, publisher; Arturo Aste, international PR manager; Johannes Ifkovits, photographer; Clemens Unterreiner, opera singer; Elisabeth Himmer-Hirnigel, grande dame of PR and many others. Since our very first interview with Leona König, in Monte-Carlo in 2018, we have noted remarkable results that her Foundation has accomplished not only in terms of Foundation's support of youngest classical music talents, but Leona has now redefined the framework of her Foundation; announcing new national partnerships for the 2020 and new programme. Last but not the least, Foundation's music prize is completely updated with new musical prize redesign by Swiss noble Maison Chopard, the same ethical prize maker of the coveted Palme d'or prize handed at the Cannes Film Festival. The Foundation initially hosted the award ceremony of concerts and the annual Music Prize, Goldene Note, at prestigious Wiener Konzerthaus in Vienna. Now with the 2020 prize trophy redesigned by Maison Chopard and scheduled live broadcast of the concerts and award ceremony itself by the Austrian TV, is something remarkable and precedent per se. It underlines the immense support for the future talents of classical music from the major contributors to arts, the Austrian TV ORF, Maison Chopard and Leona König herself. Fine arts and artistic achievements of the humanity remain close to Leona’s heart, and therefore it is not a surprise that Leona is passionately involved internationally in art and philantrophy.


MORALMODA MAGAZINE - ART

COUTURE ISSUE#28

High Jewellery by Maison Chopard


MORALMODA MAGAZINE ART COVER-STORY

Applying on: im-foundation.com/ Highly gifted children (piano, cello and violin) will this year again have the opportunity to make video application for audition, from December 2019 to March 2020. A high-class jury under the jury leader Tamás Varga, solo cellist of the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra, will choose 6 finalists on the day of the audition, which will take place on the 18 April 2020. At the gala concert “Golden Note”, which will be going into its fourth round on the 19 June 2020 at ORF Radiokulturhaus, the finalists will be facing the honorary committee with, among others, Valentina Nafornita, Lidia Baich and Hyung-ki Joo. The winners can look forward to a trophy, provided by Maison Chopard, further musical training and ageappropriate master courses sponsorship prizes, and concert appearances.

Images above: Leona König, photographed at the Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo in Monaco by international fashion photographer Irina Valery. Leona adorns her look with Maison Chopard High Jewellery from the latest Green Carpet Collection, with responsibly-mined emeralds and gold. Among the creations composing this varied repertoire is a majestic diamond and emerald ensemble made up of a necklace, a ring and matching earrings. Another necklace unfurls its diamond lacework across a delicate cleavage, enhanced by the radiance of diamond. Image left: Chopard’s sketch of the trophy for the “Golden Note” 2020. Design and Copyright No. 9574

About Maison Chopard's GREEN CARPET COLLECTION Chopard marked a major new milestone in its Journey to Sustainable Luxury when for the first time it enriched its Green Carpet Collection of High Jewellery with responsibly-mined emeralds. Today, iconic jewellery models in this collection are set with these precious green gems. By adding coloured stones to its roadmap towards sustainable luxury, the Genevabased Maison continues to blaze the trail and play a pioneering role in the jewellery industry - guided by central moral that: "ETHICS AT THE HEART OF AESTHETICS". Source: chopard.com

About the International Music Foundation The non-profit International Music Foundation (IMF) for the Promotion of Musically Highly Gifted Children, of Chairlady DI Leona König has since 2016 been supporting musical talents aged from five to sixteen – regardless of social and cultural origin – and organising, among other things, the gala concert “Golden Note”, which will be going into its fourth round on 19 June 2020 on ORF Radiokulturhaus. Highly talented up-and-coming musicians are chosen at an audition for the solo instruments violin, piano and cello by a first-rate expert jury, consisting of Tamás Varga – solo cellist of the Wiener Philharmoniker, Univ.-Prof. Klaus Sticken – Private University of Music und Art Vienna, Roland Lindenthal – solo cellist of the Vienna Volksoper, Ao. Univ.-Prof. Regina Brandstätter – University for music and performing arts Graz, Snežana Kiš – J. G. Albrechtsberger Musikschule Klosterneuburg, Mag. Natalie Baich – Private University of Music und Art Vienna. The 2020 IMF jury has been selected from Austria’s most important music institutions. At the concert on the evening of “Golden Note”, the finalists will be showing their abilities and will then be awarded prizes by an honorary committee consisting of Valentina Nafornita, Lidia Baich and Hyung-ki Joo. In 2020, there will also be a reunion with the winners of the previous year, who will be appearing under the artistic direction of Lidia Baich together with Valentina Nafornita, Lidia Baich, Hyung-ki Joo and the ORF Radio Symphony Orchestra Vienna (RSO). The RSO will be conducted by Hyung-ki Joo among others. IMF holds age-appropriate masterclasses at the highest level and thus enables the gifted children and young people to take specific and individual lessons, depending on their need for support, and to learn from experienced professional musicians. As well as the “Golden Note Music Award”, the IMF organises concerts and other events at which the young talents can acquire stage experience. The projects of the IMF are made possible by DI Leona König, among others, thanks to the assistance of committed supporters. The International Music Foundation therefore thanks the National Bank of Liechtenstein, and also Chopard, the Kronen Zeitung newspaper, the Austrian Lotteries and ORF, and valued practical sponsors Hotel Sacher, Steinway and Kattus.


CHOPARD.COOM /2020 PARIS COUTURE WEEK

Exceptional Stones

HAPPY HEARTS BANGLES I WHITE GOLD 18K (FAIRMINED)

RED CARPET COLLECTION 2019

Chopard

HAUTE JOAILLERIE WWW.CHOPARD.COOM


The Haute Joaillerie world has been a part of genuine interest of the world elite. But what exactly should we pay most attention for speaking about that precious field? To understand the topic more deeply, we asked world-known jewelry expert Margo Raffaelli for the interview. Read our conversation below.

Arunashi scorpio brooch 2 tanzanites weighing in total 60.4 cts, emeralds, diamonds, cachalong opal and corian set in platinum. The piece can be transformed into pair of earrings.

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steemed author and consultant Margo Raffaelli is an expert on contemporary Fine and High Jewelry. She specializes in the private consultations, jewelry selection assistance, lectures, and professional support to the companies in shaping the correct positioning of goods and services in the international jewelry market. Today Margo and her team of specialists travel around the globe in search of the most beautiful jewelry , creations from independent jewelers from Beverly Hills and New York to Paris and Istanbul. In our exclusive interview she unveils secrets in choosing right jewelry piece and shares her opinion about investment in precious objects. More information can be always seen at Raffaelli's personal website www.margoraffaelli.com and @hernameismargo Instagram account.

Margo Raffaelli is wearing Karen Suen sapphire and diamond jewelry. Image above: © Evgeny Pakhol.

MM: For introduction can you please recall for readers how did you enter the world of high jewelry and what is your most precious jewelry memory? MR: In short: a family business. Already at 14 years old I was allowed to work with the most serious clients of my parents. It seems that I intuitively felt what

MORALMODA MAGAZINE NO. 30

Image left: © Evgeny Pakhol for Margo Raffaelli www.margoraffaelli.com

FINE JEWELRY - INSPIRED BY GLOBAL DEMAND FOR EXTRAORDINARY, RARE AND THE RICH HERITAGE OF HAUTE JOAILLERIE TRADITION

kind of jewelry I should offer. I and our clients, we always found a common language. Over time, my contact list has expanded decently, satisfied customers recommended me to their friends and acquaintances. But in 2014, I got an idea to write a book about jewelry and it was then that my publisher said: “Great, Margo, you have a beautiful content and many customers who know you. But we need you to be known on the Internet! You should be on-line!” It was then that I decided to found the margoraffaelli.com — a bilingual platform about jewelry art, where I published the most interesting, in my opinion, finds around the world. Readers liked it :) MM: You are in Moscow renown as the jewelry expert to go to — who are you customers, what high jewelry expertise do they seek from you? MR: Most of my clients are Muscovites, but they also come from the USA, European countries and the Middle East. If we talk about the demographics of my readers, the United States leads, then, in descending order, there are India, Russia, Turkey and Brazil. What exactly are customers looking for is an individual question. Someone wants a diamond ring with the best value for money, someone is looking for a unique one-of-a-kind jewelry piece that can be hardly seen on anyone else. Each client has his own unique desire, which we strive to satisfy. MM: You collaborate with most exquisite contemporary high jewelry brands across the world, what is you criteria for partnering? MR: I choose jewelry what I personally like. Explaining such tactics is easy: when you are in love with something, it is usually easier to sell. High quality of craftsmanship is a very important point to me — unfortunately, even the most exclusive brands do not always meet this requirement. And I like to work with small family-owned companies, not as well-known as Place Vendôme jewelers. These people not just do, but live their own business. They have excellent workmanship, unique and extraordinary design, and, not last important point is, more pleasant pricing policy. To me, it’s also very important that the brands I work with are available in a very few places in the world. As a rule, they produce jewelry in a single copy. In this way, purchasing one of these items, you can be sure that you will not find such a second one.


EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW

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Moscow based international high jewelry expert Margo Raffaelli knows a lot about the most extraordinary precious objects in the world. In her interview to Moralmoda Magazine Margo talks about her the most favorite gemstones and high jewelry creations.

MM: How do you experience client´s primary criteria for investing in high jewelry collection? MR: All clients are different. And each of them is guided by a variety of criteria when purchasing jewelry. Most seek to acquire jewelry with some rare and valuable minerals: from diamonds and rubies to red spinel and Paraiba tourmalines. Others pay more attention to the unique design and creativity of the jeweler. I never dare to give predictions about what will grow in price and what will not. Let’s be honest, investing in jewelry is unpredictable. And no specialist can give a 100% guaranteed forecast. There is always a chance to deceive yourself and mislead the client. Therefore, it is much more important for me to provide the client a piece within his planned budget and give him an incredible thrill from the process of both choosing and purchasing jewelry, and after from wearing it of course. Jewelry should evoke positive emotions, give joy, and if the client is happy - I did the job perfectly. And if, over time, that jewelry also grows in price, well, there is just an endless happiness! MM: Which is the most exciting recent high jewelry collection in your catalogue? MR: We do not have any special catalogue. But I have a large network of contacts from designers, stone dealers and cutters to jewelers and vendors of antique jewelry. And when a new request comes from the client, I involve the maximum number of people in search of that very unique piece. This is not always fast. But after all, the winner is usually the one who knows how to wait. With regards to some specific collection of high jewelry art, I have no favorites. Absolutely in every collection there are both successful works, and not so nice as well. One thing is for sure: when I see beautiful rare emeralds or Paraiba tourmalines in the jewelry piece, it has a big chance to be marked as special one. MM: Are there specific stones that appeal to customer from certain region and how popular are lab-grown gems, what are their primary qualities besides the price? MR: Frankly, I have not sold even one laboratory diamond yet. I like this topic, I often talk about it with clients. They are open to discuss, but it still needs time. It is generally accepted idea, that when purchasing natural diamonds, a person makes an investment. But is it really so? What is he investing in? In a financial field? No sure. He invests in image and good mood. The stones grown in the laboratory still lack competent marketing. That’s the one and only problem. We don’t tell the Chanel client, who bought costume jewelry, that she wears fake pearls? Not! Because it's Chanel! But why laboratory diamonds are considered something cheap and imitative? This is exactly the same jewelry material as, for example, rubies or amethysts — each of them simply has its own price range. I'm sure that in maximum 10 years, all the big brands will begin to experiment with laboratory diamonds in their collections.

"When a new request comes from the client, I involve the maximum number of people in search of that very unique piece. This is not always fast. But after all, the winner is usually the one who knows how to wait. With regards to some specific collection of high jewelry art, I have no favorites."

© Rami Kadi Maison de Couture.

How do you perceive that the luxury customer is influencing the high jewelry supply and trends? MR: Of course, the demand of customers creates the offer of jewelry companies. But I'm not sure that it creates trends. A true jeweler is primarily an artist who, through metal and stones, seeks his self-expression. And finding the own style, he or she, as a rule, remains in it for many years. Even Giampiero Bodino, who initially said that his jewelry is not connected in one style, still has a signature that makes his designs recognizable at first sight. I myself do not pay any attention to trends at all: it is too fleeting. And when you get the jewelry, especially expensive one, it is much more important that it reflects the style and individual perception of the client — if so, I can be sure that my customer will often wear that jewelry piece, and he will do it with a great pleasure!

alancing the art of high jewellery

MM: Who do you think offers most impressive options and collections based on the lab-grown diamonds? MR: At the moment I know only one brand what produce jewelry with lab-grown diamonds — that’s Shiphra. They are not fist, and of course, not last, but with that guys I had a personal working experience. Their jewelry items have high-level of craftsmanship, they are beautiful, welldesigned, and absolutely indistinguishable from if they were with natural stones.

Image top above: BAYCO necklace, ring and earrings, diamonds and hand-carved emeralds set in 18K white gold. Image above: Shiphra bracelet. Lab-grown diamonds set in 18K white gold. Image below: Arunashi ring 12 cts Kashmir sapphire, Paraiba tourmalines, turquoise, diamonds set in platinum.

All images right reserved: © Evgeny Pakhol for Margo Raffaelli www.margoraffaelli.com


Historic icon in High Jewellery the Cartier's symbol la Panthère -merges world of Cartier with India's fauna

MORALMODA MAGAZINE

Words: Raquel Helena Hernandez Diaz

Today, Cartier is a worldwide recognised brand, known by its luxurious precious gems, unique designs and a legacy of beauty and symbolism, that remains in the eyes of those who admire the art behind their work. Between these lines, I wish to share some of its most emblematic pieces, which are not only a living form of elegance and savoir-faire, but also as jewelry, they represent a gift from love, in its highest form.

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The birth of the symbol of Cartier: can be traced back the panthère: The Panthère pattern was first spotted in Cartier wristwatch from 1914, when its signature pattern appeared in diamond and ebony. Toussaint, who joined Cartier around 1913, had earned the nickname of “La Panthère” from Louis Cartier, perhaps because she wore a full length panther coat, perhaps because she was ferociously opinionated and intelligent; perhaps, some say, for other reasons. Toussaint had bigger plans than a postcard for the animals in her kingdom and pushed her team for more figurative three-dimensional pieces. Many visits to the Paris zoo at Vincennes ensued. In 1927 designer Peter Lemarchand joined her team, ready to pounce with the technical skill to realize her vision of three dimensional panthers. Twenty years later, the Duke of Windsor walked in the door. The first threedimensional Cartier Panthère was created in 1948 for his wife, the Duchess of Windsor, using a

Windsor panthère brooch The Duchess of Windsor was not the only woman prey to the panthère: Daisy Fellowes, the Singer sewing heiress who made Cartier’s Tutti Frutti necklace famous, had her own sapphire and diamond Panthère brooch. Aline

"The first three-dimensional Cartier Panthère was created in 1948 for his wife, the Duchess of Windsor, using a 116.74 carat emerald from the Duke’s own collection. The cat, in gold and onyx, was perched right above the enormous stone. New year, new Panthère."

116.74 carat emerald from the Duke’s own collection. The cat, in gold and onyx, was perched right above the enormous stone. New year, new Panthère. In 1949 the couple commissioned another Cartier brooch, this time coupling a diamond cat with a sapphire. The Duchess is said to have had a preference for blue. It brought out her eyes. Cartier Savoir-faire For Cartier, the most important part of savoir-faire is the hyphen between “savoir” and “faire”: the free-flowing movement between jeweled creatures and their craftsmen, the fruits of creative dialogue and productive exchanges. The major design challenge is making the iconic Panthère. Accentuating its muscles, head and paws through stylizing and detail releases the power of the feline. The design becomes an animal, the panther comes to life. Source: Cartier.com


MORALMODA MAGAZINE CARTIER IN FOCUS

The Tutti Frutti and India as an inspiration In 1901, Pierre Cartier was commissioned by Queen Alexandra to create a custom piece for her. The necklace was to be worn with three Indian gowns given to her by the wife of the Viceroy of India at the time. Cartier, being the masterful jeweler that he was, successfully blended the the vibrant colors typically used in Indian textiles with techniques of modern jewelry craftsmanship to create a unique and celebrated custom piece. This necklace was such a success that it led to future Royal commissions and also became the basis for future works by the House of Cartier. Jacques Cartier’s new pieces were created in the 1920s using the finest richly hued sapphires, rubies, and emeralds, with diamond accents. During his trips to India he inspired himself and floral themes started to be used in abundance. The traditional vine of Mughal art is depicted using a ribbon of diamonds. The gemstones and jewels were set in platinum, that became

standard for high jewelry at the time, after Louis Cartier introduced platinum-mounted, harder tiaras which almost appeared lace-like. In 1936, a socialite named Daisy Fellows, the Singer sewing machine heiress, commissioned and enormous and extravagant tutti frutti necklace from Cartier. Fellows was well known for her elegance and taste, and the extraordinary piece turned heads, just as she hoped it would. The design then became even more sought after, specially bracelets. B ut it was not until 1970 that the collection was named “Tutti Frutti” which means “many fruits” in Italian, as a symbol of a joyous celebration of color, texture, and form that the design encapsulates. The red rubies remind us of a strawberry or a cherry, according to the intensity of it, the green is pretty much like a grape and the blue could very well be a blueberry. The designs are considered the perfect mix of East and West because they are made up of brightly coloured gemstones carved using Indian techniques and set in French platinum and diamond mountings.

Panthère earrings From its first appearance in a jewel created by Jeanne Toussaint and then as a motif in examples of art deco, mid-century, 1980s and contemporary jewels, the Panthère has been reinvented by Cartier just as the tweed suit has been reinterpreted by Chanel. It has respected the DNA of the original inspiration while updating it for modern tastes. All images: courtesy H. Diaz.

High Jewellery the Cartier

From its first appearance in a jewel created by Jeanne Toussaint and then as a motif in examples of art deco, mid-century, 1980s

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and contemporary jewels,

An icon in High Jewellery the Cartier and its unique design

the Panthère has been reinvented by Cartier just as the tweed suit has been reinterpreted by Chanel.

Note from the editor: More on the iconic brand and the family behind

the jewellery empire is recently published in The Cartiers,

a remarkable collection of anecdotes and historic references by the third

generation child and book author Francesca Cartier Brickell herself. Esteemed author of "The Cartiers", opens up about her family, the founding fathers of the empire, and the reader is invited to discover how "the three Cartier brothers turned their grandfather’s Parisian store into a global icon", an unmissable reference and research loaded publication.


MORALMODA MAGAZINE/DESIGNER

BRITISH DESIGNER JATIN PATEL ENCORPORATES THE RICH BRITISH BESPOKE TRADITION WITH THE INNOVATION OF MILLINERY HERITAGE

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he UK based brand Kalikas Armour celebrates wild life since 2013, along with 20 other Fashion Houses, who all designed and donated masks and headpieces at the latest Animal Ball, held for the Elephant Family Charity. The annual ball set up to raise funds, excited all the eminent guests, including the British royals. We asked the mastermind behind some of the stunning, technological couture millinery creations, the designer Jatin Patel to tell us more about his designs and his charitable support to the Animal Ball since it was inaugurated in 2013. JP: The premise of the Animal Ball for the Elephant Family Charity was to host an extravagant society ball where the fashion and art worlds came together to celebrate and raise awareness and funds for the conservation work. My brand Kalikas Armour was amongst 20 other Fashion Houses who all designed and donated masks and headpieces including Prada, Kenzo, Sabya Sachi Official, Temperley London, Charlotte Olympia and Julia Haart. These masks where purchased by guests attending the ball ensuring that the event was full of a jungle of different animals, exotic birds and magnificent creatures all in the purpose of fundraising. My chosen animal was always going to be the Elephant, Inspired by Ganesh , The Hindu god of Good Luck and Fortune. The Regal Elephant is an animal that is so close to my heart full of Love, Adoration and respect. The mythological symbolisms and ancient wisdom feature heavily throughout my inspiration, work and practice. NAMASTE NAMA - Bow; AS - I; TE - you. Thus, I bow to you. - Sanskrit …“The Divine in me Honours the Divine in You”… To celebrate the magical greeting and interaction between the revered Elephant and the Human recognizing that the life force within us as individuals is the same as that within everything and everyone. The automated lowering and raising of the trunk represents the gentleness, intellect, honour and respect of the elephant bowing and reaching for connection allowing for a physical touch. Awakening the desire and need for the protection and conservation of these majestic creatures. Igniting empathy, Love and compassion to achieve a harmonious peaceful co existence of humans and the Animal Kingdom…

"Conservation, Sustainability and Eco fashion is something I am very passionate about too and will continue to support relevant organisations and I aim to implement as much as possible into my practice." Jatin Patel It began as an idea which I translated into 3d model form, working and moulding wire, building many, many frames. Constantly trying it on and developing until I reached my desired shape and design which had to take into consideration the housing of the electronics, the weight and the comfort of wearing it for an entire evening. I was fortunate to be surrounded by a very small dedicated team including welders, engineers, cutters, assistants who worked tirelessly and with great determination to make the trunk of the headdress with the flick of a switch behind the ears to move and lower itself down and then raise back up, effortlessly. … really giving the feeling of the greeting from the elephant.

I was honoured to have been fully supported by Swarovski for the Gold and crystal dorado Crystal fabric to produce 12 bespoke Elephant Headdresses’. MM: It seems that element of ethics inspired your contribution to this ball? JP: This was my Third Animal Ball with the Elephant Family. I began supporting them with their 1st Ball at Clarence House back in 2013 again with Elephant Masks. The charity was created by the late Mark Shand, who is a true pioneer and advocate of the conservation of Elephants. It was his Love for his beloved Tara the elephant that kick-started the Charity.

"I have been privileged to be involved and support in my creative abilities and talents and will continue to do so." Jatin Patel

Of one-of-kind animal masks were admired by the royal guests attending the ball, and purchased by guests for charity, Including Charles, Prince of Wales, and Camilla Parker Bowles. Image courtesy: Kalikas Armour.

Every two years, the royal couple hosts Animal Ball to its annual charity event, which is dedicated to conservation of nature and endangered animal in India.


I have been privileged to be involved and support in my creative abilities and talents and will continue to do so My intention was to highlight the plight of the elephants in Asia and to help raise awareness and funds in the charities ambitions to build a safe coexistence in the habitats of the elephants and humans. They are working on great initiatives including the elephant corridors, The Elephant Parade and travels with my Elephant. What I truly love about the charities work is the realistic and practical approaches that protect and benefit everyone achieving long lasting results. MM: It is safe to say that, the opening night of the Animal Ball, your Elephant headdresses wowed even the royal couple, how special is it to you, as a designer to be represented at such an event? How would you describe your impressions from that night?

My studio is in one of the bonded warehouses by the river Medway, a city steeped full of history, Rochester Castle, the cathedral and maritime past great sources of inspiration and beauty. It’s an amazing space for creativity to flourish. We are 35mins outside of Central London, St Pancras and have a wonderful High speed train links. Many clients love to come and see the process of creation along with the many archive pieces.

MANEMALS - Leather handcrafted animals made to order, available in an array of fabrics and colours including sustainable pineapple leather. Image: Rikard Osterlund

MM: Where can we expect to see more Kalikas Armour exceptional creations in the future? JP: I am extremely ambitious and have big long term plans for where I would like to see my label grow, with the ever changing landscape of fashion and the arts anything is now possible and the cross collaborations of the disciplines it’s a very exciting time. I will continue with the Slow Fashion movement and create high quality, luxurious investment pieces. I am also investigating the tech and wearable’s aspect and integrating that into fashion so that there is a much deeper purpose to clothing. Conservation, Sustainability and Eco fashion is something I am very passionate about too and will continue to support relevant organisations and I aim to implement as much as possible into my practice. I am always open to new opportunities, commissions and collaborations… Often it’s the most unusual and out there pairings that bring out the best results …Please do get in touch and let’s make some magic!

All images rendering courtesy Jatin Patel and Kalikas ©

My inspiration is drawn from so many JP: I was in absolute awe to see my creations various sources, be it a film, a piece of presented to the Royal Family at Clarence music, a poem, a painting, an event or House and to see their reactions of the moving situation, a theory or a current global issue. I am British born with a very rich Indian trunk was just priceless. As a creator much of my satisfaction is in the Heritage and ancestry along with being reactions to my work and that brought me raised in the age of technology and much joy and happiness. And satisfaction that information overload. It’s these Amalgamation of differences, my vision was truly realised. It was an honour that the image of HRH Prince clashes, similarities in culture along with Charles and the Duchess of Cornwall global exposure that allow me to have an interacting with my mask was distributed unique point of view across various media channels. The ball itself I like to research as much as possible and was spectacular and such a surreal gathering of then allow that information in written, verbal and visual form to gestate in my mind Thank You people all wearing different animal masks. T H E N E W F O U R S E A S O N S R E S O R T L with O S Clots A B Oof S Amood T C Oboards, S T A P Asketches L M A S , Sand I T S OClients N T Hcan E also P R select I S T I aNdesign E from the Archive Collection which concepts. I have always been creative form MM: DoS you create HOR E S Ofor F Tcertain H E S Eluxury A O F customer C O R T E Z , A D E S T I N A T I O N J A C Q U E S C O U S T E A U can T EbeRmodified M E D to “ Tsuit H Epersonal taste for any occasion. an early age and fell into fashion at art in mind or are you inspired by the event itself All consultations and fittings are carried out by Jatin and can be A Q U Aschool RIUM O F T H E toW Oa R LBA D ” Hons degree leading arranged in the studio or at the client’s residence/ hotel. for making designs? www.kalikasarmour.com following and eventually a masters in @JatinKalikasArmour Fashion Design with the creation of my JP: As we create bespoke fashion pieces it’s a +44 07787572700 Label Kalikas Armour. Studio 103, The Bonded Warehouse, Hulkes Lane, Rochester, Kent, combination of both taking into consideration ME1 1EE England. UK where the outfit will be worn to what kind of I love to be hands on and am fully versed in statement they would like to make along with pattern construction, draping, and garment creation I love to get fully involved and the practical aspects. My joy is in working with a client and their getting on my sewing machine and bringing requirements and desires from the initial cloth together and transforming it into a 3d consultation and seeing a garment form design wearable garment bringing my vision to sketches to sampling to final creation. With this life…. kind of personal service it’s a wonderful experience for the client to have assisted in MM: We would like to learn more about the creating something they are proud and founding of your brand? confident to wear. We design and create for both Women, Men JP: Kalikas Armour is a luxurious British and children from evening gowns, cocktail Fashion Label specialising in high-quality dresses, Bridal gowns to sharp statement conceptual design and bespoke, made to tailored jackets along with special commissions measure pieces with a unique aesthetic. for pets! I conceived the brand after a MA Distinction in Fashion Design. I have over I have been very fortunate to have been 15 years experience in the fashion commissioned for some very special and Industry, from high fashion to high street exciting projects… Currently working on some including showcasing RTW collections at very opulent outfits for the ill Ballo de Dodge, the Royal Academy, for London Fashion for Venice Carnival 2020. Anything is possible… Week and at Pret-a Porter in Paris, FFC Gala show in Seattle, USA. The creations echo a timeless beauty and combine classic elegance embodying luxurious embellished fabrics and cloth with a hand-finished couture quality aliened with perfect fitting in harmony with individual body shapes and the skills in handcrafted tailoring. From the Atelier in Rochester, Kent, I along with my talented team cut and craft the finest garments for both Women and Men, creating to every individual desire. MORALMODA MAGAZINE / INTERVIEW


RAMI-KADI.COM ©

SPRING/SUMMER 2020 WWW.RAMI-KADI.COM


Hommage to Schiaparelli with Double Fantasy

MORALMODA MAGAZINE

(All images rendering courtesy: Schiaparelli©)

Elsa Schiaparelli herself. "She was a dreamer, but not in the drifty, careless sense of the term: Her dreams were active, propulsive, exuberant, extravagant, rebellious, ambitious. She created (and dressed) for no one but herself."

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Designer's nod to Elsa’s groundbreaking 1938 silk crepe Skeleton Dress. "Here, jewelry is not an accessory or an appendage, but an organ, as essential and vivid as a heart or a lung. My own dream, always, is to make the women I dress feel seen. Not just for what they look like, but for who they are within—the persona they want to show the world, but also the one they save for just the ones they love. These are clothes for the realm of the fantastic—but they are also ones that reveal the truth." Daniel Roseberry

Designer explains that "these two personas as the Surrealist and the Seductress, and it is

these two personas—and the fictive space between them—that I celebrate in this collection. For the daytime, Surrealist, side of the woman, I created slouchy suits in drapey, summer-weight wool that project an almost louche carelessness, all rendered in a rich, subdued palette: chocolate, butterscotch, cream, navy, black. And for the

nighttime Seductress, I made coolly glittering gowns in overdyed silk faille and satin in

crisp blacks, whites, and hypersaturated royal blues. Uniting these two versions of thewoman—day and night; witty and sensual—are a dedication to the tactile: in the suits’ dry wool that crinkles in the hand like leaves; in the bijoux that embellish not just ears, throats, and fingers, but everywhere. I wanted to pay tribute both to the Surrealists’ and Dadaists’ fixation on body parts—the eye, the back, the torso— Alberto Giacometti’s forms." Daniel Roseberry Artistic Director - Maison Schiaparelli.


ULYANA SERGEENKO'S PINK COUTURE COLLECTION AT THE BISMARCK'S PARISIAN MANSION

(All images rendering courtesy: Ulyana Sergeenko©)

Ulyana Sergeenko tells captivating stories through her collections. Season after season, she follows the adventures of a restless heroine whose hunger for life is interpreted by the way her wardrobe morphs and evolves as her experiences grow.

Mixing irony with glamour Designer dresses her heroine in airy feathers and fancy money-print capes... A feline theme runs through: cat paws are scattered on leopard prints - a first for Sergeenko - or turn into embroidery on gloves and dresses; the image of a cat becomes a structural element on corsets and dresses. Money is another motif, as banknotes of the Ulyana Sergeenko Bank are printed on organza and gathered on boas, coats, trains, becoming an amusing substitute to fur. Money becomes a print, too, or is rendered in hand-knitted Vologda lace. The season’s flower is the gladiolus - a memory of the bouquets given to the hostess of the party appearingon jacquard skirts, dresses, and bright green and red pointy shoes. Mohair sweaters areembellished with appliqué of embroidered roses; dresses are entirely covered with colored feathers.

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MORALMODA MAGAZINE

Ulyana Sergeenko heroine returns from the last season’s trip to Samarkand. The explorer muse of Ulyana Sergeenko celebrates her homecoming with a big, lavish party of pure, undiluted fun. Her character is inspired by Shirley MacLaine in the movie What a way to go (1964), which on its turn was an homage to Countess Mona von Bismarck, who used marriage as a pass to high society, befriended Truman Capote and loved pink. The show itself happens in Bismarck’s Parisian mansion, the interiors bathed in pink, and is an amused and amusing ode to love, a force way stronger than money. a dreamer, but not in the drifty, careless sense of the term: Her dreams were active, propulsive, exuberant, extravagant, rebellious, ambitious. She created (and dressed) for no one but herself."

Direction: Alexandre de Betak Production: Bureau Betak Models Casting: Barbara Nicoli and Leila Ananna Hair: Odile Gilbert 
 Make-up: Val Garland PR: KCD Lighting Design: Light Design - Franz & Fritz

Precious material such as silk organza, coated silk, silk crepe, chiffon with a shiny coating, wool and lace come in a voluptuous palette of shades of pink, from bright to muted, mixed with green, blue, light blue, yellow, gold and silver, plus white and black. Accessories play with the idea of illusion: shoes sprout cat ears, a wine glass becomes a handbag, a diamond tiara becomes a headband with a cat face, and a cocktail glass. High heel shoes are studded with rhinestones. Boas are mandatory, as are diamond-studded tiaras and voluminous hairpins-bows. As the protagonist of the most amusing and glamorous party, the Ulyana Sergeenko woman enjoys life through the sheer joy of dressing up, adventure after adventure.


MORALMODA MAGAZINE HAUTE COUTURE

Maison Georges Hobeika’s Spring-Summer 2020 Couture collection debuts its first men's couture and brings together some of the designer's favorite stylistic moods: the force of nature, the ecstasy of freedom and the philosophy of entertainment, expressed in elegant and sparkling outfits that invite us to the shores of Sardinia illuminated by the Virgilian sky, the reflections of the turquoise Mediterranean and the glistening sensuality of golden sand.

GEORGES HOBEIKA MAISON COUTURE

SPRING/SUMMER 2020

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For its Spring-Summer 2020 Haute Couture collection, Maison GEORGES HOBEIKA evokes the good summer times of legendary parties at the Mediterranean sea the essence of the Italian dolce vita in a fashion show that had guests erupt in five minutes long standing ovation

Maison Georges Hobeika's latest couture collection is an ode to joy and liberty, large flowers of assertive volume thrive on exceptional creations designed for formal celebrations and fantastic parties. Silhouette busts feature ruffled fabric flourishing in overflow and embroidered petals rising up on graceful suits and majestic dresses. A rich palette of inventive colors shines on luxurious materials: at times, soft and voluptuous to evoke the charm of an enchanted garden and, at other times, lively and invigorating in playful reminiscence of the multicolored stripes of umbrellas that adorn sunny coasts. Shimmering transparencies beckon the flirtatious dancing that energizes a frivolous atmosphere. Shiny fringes studded with glittering sequins celebrate the mysterious force of gold and silver stars illuminating hot summer nights. The summer 2020 unveils audacious laser cut, openwork patterns compose hypnotic and daring geometric figures. A well deserved standig ovation from the audience for the depth of detail, mastery of overlay and delicacy of movement given to the fine fabrics for both sexes. The spring/summer fashion show was among the most beautiful couture shows I was invited to, and it is per se an attest to the Maison's renowned work: a precious craft of tailored grace and bliss!


MORALMODA MAGAZINE HAUTE COUTURE SPRING/ SUMMER 2020

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Paris Haute Couture week Spring /summer 2020 haute couture collection by famous couturier Iris van Herpen, named ‘Sensory Seas’ Presented on the first day of the Paris Haute Couture week, at Cirque d'Hiver, Paris. For this collection, Iris van Herpen draws inspiration from the sensory processes that occur between the intricate composition of the human body, mirrored with the fibrous marine ecology of our oceans. The first threads of inspiration came from the Spanish neuroanatomist Ramón y Cajal. He wanted to uncover something that no one had yet understood. He questioned; how does the brain engage in conversation with its counterparts? Exploring our central nervous system in microscopic detailing, Cajal documented his revolutionary findings through anatomical drawings that are considered amongst the world’s greatest scientific illustrations. Other inspiration stemmed from diving into the deep depths of the Hydrozoa, a class of delicately branched sea-life organisms. Shifting between a polypoid stage and a medusa stage, the Hydrozoa embroider the oceans like aqueous fabrics, forming layers of living lace. ‘Sensory seas’ holds a microscope over the indelible nuances between the anthropology of a marine organism, to the role of dendrites and synapses delivering infinite signals throughout our bodies. It enchants the attention of how two processes of torrential messaging exist in an uninterrupted state of flux. The collection consists 21 silhouettes that illustrate a portrait of liquid labyrinths, where dresses spill onto the floor in elegant train and pigments gather in clouded blues and lilac. The flickers and curves of Cajal’s anatomical drawings are revealed in the ‘Labrynthine’ technique; 3D lasercut silk dendrites are heatbonded to blossoming leaves of black transparent glass-organza, to then be hand-embroidered ontolasercut pearlescent exoskeletons. The 'hypertube' looks are 3D printed from a single-lined web using white silicone thread, that is printed onto black silk-chiffon, twisting down the body. For the ‘Hydrozoa’ technique, cellular aquarelles of dark purples and turquoise were oil-painted and multi-layered into hundreds of transparent lasercut PetG bubbles. The glass organza halos were digitally printed, heatbonded and then hand-stitched into voluminous splashes. The file-work of each layer is drawn to hang upwards, blooming aquatically with each movement. The ‘Morphogenesis’ technique is carved by thousands of white screenprinting mesh layers, in collaboration with Philip Beesley. 3D twisted vortex models were created in Rhino software, numbered and sliced into 3mm distance, to then be cut on the KERN lasercutter with a triangulated grid of chevron-holes. Grasshopper scripts smoothened the processes of lofting, slicing and nesting. Each layer was embellished by hand with a grid of minuscule transparent chevrons, creating vibrant coral textures that expand and contract around the body.

(All images rendering courtesy: Gübelin©)

During the show, the models emerge from three 'immaterial' lightwave sculptures, designed by Paul Friedlander. Each sculpture is made from one thread only, that transforms frequency into shape. Illustrating a sea of structure, they encircle the models by weaving light around them, creating a metaphorical maze of sensory waves. CREDITS all images by Maison. Press: Alexandre Malgouyres | KCD Paris. Styling: Patti Wilson. Special thanks to collaborating artist: Paul Friedlander.Collaborati ng Artists: Philip Beesley, Shelee Carruthers, Duke Morse, Perry Hall. Music Direction: Salvador Breed Including tracks: Joep Beving & Maarten Vos - Apophis (Henosis Deutsche Grammophon) Kuedo-Bend Moon


MORALMODA MAGAZINE - ART

PABLO PICASSO Through the Lens of

David Douglas Duncan Le Vieux Chalet, Gstaad 3 February–28 February 2020 Open to the public on Wednesdays and Thursdays 2–5 pm and by appointment www.hauserwirth.com

Image: David Douglas Duncan. Picasso peignant la série Pepe Illo à l'aquatinte [Picasso painting the Pepe Illo series with aquatint] 1957, Villa La Californie, Cannes. Vintage gelatin silver print 20.8 x 31.5 cm / 8 1/4 x 12 3/8 in All 3 images: © David Douglas Duncan © Succession Picasso/DACS, London 2019 Courtesy the estate David Douglas Duncan Left:David Douglas Duncan Pablo Picasso et Jacqueline dans le salon de La Californie [Pablo Picasso and Jacqueline in the living room of Villa La Californie] 1957, Villa La Californie, Cannes Vintage gelatin silver print Ed. 1/223.5 x 35.2 cm / 9 1/4 x 13 7/8 in. Below: Pablo Picasso Femme au foulard 1956 Painted and glazed ceramic; square tile Unique 20.5 x 20.5 cm / 8 1/8 x 8 1/8 in. © DACS.

Discover a period of unprecedented access to the artist’s studio Opening at Le Vieux Chalet in Gstaad on the 2 February 2020, ‘Picasso Through the Lens of David Douglas Duncan’ gives a remarkable insight into the work and life of Picasso. Ceramics and paintings by the artist are presented in tandem with vintage photographs taken by the legendary photographer David Douglas Duncan during a period of unprecedented access to the artist’s studio. The works on view, created concurrently with the photographs, can be encountered as an ‘intervention’ throughout the domestic spaces of the chalet. The photographs, some of which have never been exhibited before, give an intimate portrait of the artist at work and at home. The project has been organised in close collaboration with the artist’s son, Claude Picasso, and James Koch, Partner at Hauser & Wirth. Duncan a renowned war photographer and Picasso's close friend David Douglas Duncan was a renowned war photographer, photojournlist, and a self-described nomad. He was among the most influential photographers of the last century, capturing World War II, the Vietnam War, and photo essays for Life magazine. The resulting images filled more than 25 books, including eight on Picasso. Duncan’s first encounter with Picasso happened in February 1956 when he infamously rang the doorbell of La Californie, Picasso’s home in Cannes. The artist’s wife, Jacqueline, led him upstairs and he met Picasso in his bathtub, who allowed Duncan to photograph him. From that starting point, the photographer developed a lasting friendship with Picasso over the course of 17 years during which time he captured an astounding visual archive of the artist’s life at La Californie. Imagine their conversations on art, life and war.

‘Zhang Enli, New Paintings’

Biography Born: Jilin, China, 1965. Education Arts

Hauser & Wirth Zürich

& Design Institute of

17 January – 29 February 2020

Wuxi Technical

Hauser & Wirth’s European programme, features major presentations by Alexander Calder, Jenny Holzer, Zhang Enli, David Zink Yi, Don McCullin, Not Vital, Picasso, David Douglas Duncan, Isa Genzken, Alina Szapocznikow and Henry Moore. Discover our interview with Chinese artist Zhang Enli. The presentation will showcase a series of paintings that reflect on the artist’s progression to looser and freer brushwork, expressing his own emotive intuition. While these pieces are explorations of Zhang Enli’s work in abstraction, many are anchored in figuration with descriptive titles.

University, China, graduated in 1989. Resides: Lives and works in Shanghai, China. SELECTED SOLO EXHIBITIONS 2020 Hauser & Wirth, Zurich, Switzerland. 2019: Xavier Hufkens, Brussels, Belgium. K11 Foundation, Shanghai, China, The

MM: Your exhibition explores abstract expression. How do you reflect on it? ZE: After many years of exploring figurative and symbolic painting, it was only recently that I began to dedicate my work to abstraction. I wanted to think about approaching colour and form more intuitively in my work, focusing on the essence of an object rather than its realistic, tactile depiction. Through this I believe my work has advanced in expressing the deceptively poetic aspects of everyday life: whether that is the banal object or overlooked characters from everyday narratives, such as ‘The Accountant’, ‘The Single Mother’ and ‘The Flower Arranger’. MM: What was the 1990s art scene like in China in your province? ZE: I was born in the province of Jilin in China. In 1989 I graduated from the Arts & Design Institute of Wuxi Technical University and relocated to Shanghai to teach at the Arts and Design Institute of Donghua University.

Moving to Shanghai was a life-changing experience for me, it was nothing like the region where I am originally from. In my mind, when I first arrived it was more like a European city. There was a wave of development happening during the 1990s. The art scene was still largely underground, but the number of contemporary artists was growing. During this period I was observing the people in the city and painting them in their normal guises. MM: Since this period your works express newfound dynamism; blur of boundaries between the internal and the external, (in the current exhibition; ‘A Young Man’ ? ZE: As I moved away from realism, my brushwork has become more varied, looser and freer, and the compositions more abstract. By blurring the boundaries between the external and the internal, I hope I can generate some scrutiny in new ways of seeing. From the audience’s side, I hope that my new paintings in Zurich envelop the viewers in an uncanny sense of recognition in the objects and characters I have depicted.

Uccelliera at Galleria Borghese, 'Bird Cage'' Rome, Italy. Photo: Thomas Alexander. Courtesy the arist and Hauser & Wirth

MM:Through layering and collage-like techniques your recent paintings offer a complex treatise on subject and the inner, how much is this in contrast to the contemporary digital cultures? ZE: Although my primary medium is paint, I work from photography, sketches as well as memory to create larger scale works. I am still drawing from contemporary digital culture, however my aim is that the end result of my work can offer something else in contrast to the digital representations of objects, places and people. I am still influenced by Chinese traditional paint techniques and the tradition’s approach to the mastery of the brush, the control between mind and hand is something that has inspired my practice.

The application of paint on the canvas is for me very physical, visceral even. I think this combined with my interpretations of subject matter creates a sense of affect that I believe is made possible from the physical object.

The display in Zurich focuses on Zhang Enli’s expressive new possibilities, the canvases do not depict an object or person as a truthful representation but instead as their essence. New works for the exhibition such as ‘The Single Mother’ (2019) and ‘The Strong Labourer’ (2019) are made with a diverse palette and application of dynamic brushstrokes are overlaid with colourful spheres, indicating a new style in the artist’s painterly aesthetic In these works, Zhang Enli projects his own concerns and recollections onto the canvas, fusing the real and the imagined, in highly personal impressions. Stylistically the paintings owe a debt to his threedimensional works, known as ‘space paintings’. In these installations Zhang Enli paints directly onto the walls of a room to create an immersive environment of abstract


MORALMODA MAGAZINE NO. 30

Frieze London and PAD London Image right: Shalini Passi 2020

Two Art Fairs Showcase Global 20the Century Art and Design Icons

Image right: HIMALI SINGH SOIN – WE ARE OPPOSITE LIKE. THAT. Image below: Shalini Passi with artist Ron Arad. Image center: MRINALINI MUKHERJEE – KUSUM. (All images rendering courtesy: Shalini Passi©)

One of my favourite people to see at the fair was Ron Arad - a long-standing friend and talented artist, architect, and industrial designer. To me, Ron encapsulates the magic of art and design; I love that he does not limit his creativity to one discipline, but finds inspiration in eclectic sources like old British cars, the Bat Cave, and busts of Albert Einstein.

E

Words: Shalini Passi

very autumn, Frieze Art Fair arrives in London, bringing with it a frenzy of excitement and an array of spectacles to shock, awe, and delight its viewers. Frieze London, now in its 17th edition, is one of the most highly anticipated international art events of the year. Featuring more than 160 of the world's leading galleries, collectors and enthusiasts travel from across the globe to attend this agenda setting event - myself included. Frieze is the rare art fair which not only provides a platform for producers and consumers to meet and mingle, but introduces the world to the leading ideas and expressions of global contemporary art making. This year, as with most years, I travelled to London to explore Frieze, along with the rich and diverse programme of ancillary events that has now developed around the landmark event. I was also there for PAD London - a boutique fair which seeks to create an intimate atmosphere that inspires collectors, art consultants, museum experts, interiors specialists, design practitioners and the public alike. While quite a different pace and energy to Frieze, PAD London plays an important role in signaling collector priorities and trends with respect to twentieth-century art and design.

India´s leading contemporary artists at 17th Frieze London Frieze never fails to surprise and inspire me; it is a source of radical thinking and a place for new ideas. For me, one of the greatest highlights of the fair this year was seeing the works of Mrinalini Mukherjee - one of India's leading contemporary artists, who has recently gained widespread international recognition due to the successful retrospective of her work at the Met Breuer, New York, which opened this summer. Known for her distinctly contemporary style and unconventional use of dyed and woven hemp fibre for sculpting, Mukherjee creates work that is sensual, suggestive, and frequently visceral. I've been collecting her work for many years, and Kusum (1996) is one of my favourite pieces in my collection. I have found Frieze to be consistently noteworthy in its support of novel ideas and innovative perspectives. About Shalini Passi

"I was particularly excited to see the work of Himali Singh Soin, who was presented with the Frieze Artist Award 2019..." - Shalini Passi, the Founder and Director of the Shalini Passi Art Foundation, and of MASH

I was particularly excited to see the work of Himali Singh Soin, who was presented with the Frieze Artist Award 2019, which is a unique opportunity for an emerging international artists to present an ambitious work at the fair. It's the first time the Award has focused on film, and Singh Soin used the medium to dramatic effect in her short, which hauntingly posed questions about sense of place and our notions of an alien 'other'. In the art world, Frieze is the best of the best; it is superlative, like a constellation of stars. It is no wonder therefore that I found myself equally inspired by the people as I was by the works themselves. One of my favourite people to see at the fair was Ron Arad - a long-standing friend and talented artist, architect, and industrial designer. To me, Ron encapsulates the magic of art and design; I love that he does not limit his creativity to one discipline, but finds inspiration in eclectic sources like old British cars, the Bat Cave, and busts of Albert Einstein. Pad London Then onto PAD London, set in the heart of Mayfair, in the picturesque Berkeley Square. Here I was delighted to see Herve Van Der Straeten, who is as much an artist as he is a designer. Having first become known for his jewellery collections, he has since gained worldwide recognition for his collections of furniture and lighting. Van Der Straeten creates masterpieces of scale and form, which are instantly recognisable from their contrasting materials and defiant volumes perfectly balanced with clean, elegant lines. The pieces are made with such precision - seeming at once to be jagged and perfectly geometric. Ultimately, I came away feeling energised and inspired: having fully immersed myself in the world of contemporary art and design, my thinking has been refreshed, my enthusiasm renewed. There is an energy I feel when in the company of pioneering artists and designers, and it feels exactly as heady and memorable as discovering a new piece of art in itself.

Shalini Passi is an Indian Arts Patron, philanthropist, artist and art collector based in Delhi. Mrs Passi sits on the Advisory Board of Khoj Studios since 2012 and serves as a longstanding Patron of FICA (Foundation for Indian Contemporary Art) and the Kochi-Muziris Biennale. Her collection includes some of the most coveted names in contemporary art, including Bharti Kher, Anita Dube, Sheba Chhachhi, Zarina Hashmi, and Atul Dodiya, alongside significant international artists such as Jeff Koons and Damian Hirst and Indian modernist masters, such as M.F. Husain, Manjit Bawa, and Ram Kumar. Shalini’s passion for art and design is evident in her vast collection of furniture, tapestries, and rare antiques, which are juxtaposed with cutting-edge contemporary design, including important pieces by Ron Arad, Vladimir Kagan, and Herve Van Der Straeten. Located within Shalini’s Delhi home, which has been featured in prominent publications, the collection evokes and celebrates a powerful individual narrative that speaks of Shalini’s connection with each piece, each history, and each artist. As a patron and collector, Shalini actively supports emerging artists, and fosters arts education through her namesake Foundation, a non-profit organisation's year-round programming. She is regularly invited to speak at world´s prominent art events.


S

tart your day; truly healthy

Its a breakfast classic - but even princess approved! We

like a real Princess

are pleased to unveil a easy way to get a daily dose of

PS: our editorial team has tasted this wonderful recipe

essential vitamins and minerals, taking inspiration from

and we are loving it, and the best thing is that you can

Elisabeth von Thurn und Taxis breakfast recipes, and the

improvise it for each day, adds Elisabeth.. Ennjoy!

simplest way to prepare it..

Elisabeth von Thurn und Taxis, more info on: elisabethtnt@me.com Instagram: @elisabethtnt where you can find more inspiration on healthy quality of life.

Smoothie bowls are one of my favourite ways to start the day because I have a sweet tooth and its a great way to get in all my supplements and super powders in a healthy way. Again no smoothie bowl is ever the same but recently I had:

Hotel Sacher Wien, Haupteingang Nacht II © Hotel Sacher

Words: Elisabeth Thurn und Taxis

Here you go! I mix my breakfasts up a lot in order not to get bored and sometimes I skip breakfast all together and fast until noon. It really depends but it is most definitely my favourite meal of the day. I am a breakfaster.

cooked squash frozen berries tsp spirulina powder 1 scoop chocolate protein powder 1 tsp soaked linseeds 1 tsp psyllium husk 1 tsp reishi powder couple spoons of greek yog1rt ice cube small dash of oat milk (for shake to be very thick) topped with a grain-free paleo granola mix 2 tsp almond butter

Image right: canva.com Canva images purchase provides support to fighting the catastrophic bushfires in NSW, Australia.

MORALMODA MAGAZINE - HEALTH

www.sacher.com


MORALMODA MAGAZINE - ART

THE IMF – FOUNDATION FOR THE PROMOTION OF MUSICALLY HIGHLY GIFTED CHILDREN IMF Chairlady DI Leona König hosted the press meeting of the International Music Foundation (IMF) at the Hotel Sacher in Vienna, on 21 November 2019, and was happy to announce the many items of news about the “Golden Note” 2020, together with KS Juan Diego Flórez, and the support of ORF General Director Dr. Alexander Wrabetz.

KS Juan Diego Flórez, Chamber Singer: “The opportunity to play with big artists is very important for young musicians. They profit not only from learning their techniques, but also from a life changing experience being on stage with them. I founded my organization ‘Friends of Juan Diego Flórez’ in Peru 2011 and can see a great impact of our work on these children. One example: the pregnancy rate amongst the girls that take part in the program has diminished 75%. Not only for the children, but also for me as an artist, it is a life-changing experience to watch those children develop. Music changes lives, in every aspect.”

ORF General Director Dr. Alexander Wrabetz: “ORF is Austria’s biggest cultural platform and offers the best of Austrian cultural life on TV, radio and online for all Austrians. I am therefore especially pleased that, in cooperation between the International Music Foundation and ORF III, we are offering a platform to promote young musicians and thus rendering a contribution to the development of the talents of the future. I thank IMF for the good cooperation and ORF III, the Radiokulturhaus, and the RSO for supporting the ‘Golden Note’.”

All images: courtesy of IMF Leona König by Photographer Clemens Unterreiner.

For 2020, Leona König, has managed to substantially increase the funding of highly talented up-and-coming musicians within Austria and internationally, and thus to support the training of young talents regardless of their origin. In addition to the annual funding awards the young finalists and the winner of the talent competition “Golden Note” can in future expect invaluable stage experience alongside established greats of classical music.

Image above: KS Juan Diego Flórez, Leona König and Austrian ORF General Director Dr. Alexander Wrabetz

Aline

Image far left: Alexandra Winkler, owner of the Hotel Sacher and Leona König.

Eminent guests from the fields of business and art attended the get-together at the Hotel Sacher and enjoyed live music from the Trio Blümel-Gergov (Soley Blümel, 11; Kai Gergov, 9; Rey Gergov, 7), three participants from previous years. Eminent guests: Juan Diego Flórez, Chamber Singer; Dr. Alexander Wrabetz, General Director of ORF; Lidia Baich, violinist; Hyung-ki Joo, pianist/composer/cabaret artist; Bernhard Ramsauer, member of the Supervisory Board of the National Bank of Liechtenstein; Konstanze Breitebner, actress and script author; Martin Traxl, ORF Head of Culture; Alexandra Winkler, owner of the Hotel Sacher; Desirée Treichl-Stürgkh, publisher; Ekaterina Mucha, publisher; Arturo Aste, international PR manager; Johannes Ifkovits, photographer; Clemens Unterreiner, opera singer; Elisabeth Himmer-Hirnigel, grande dame of PR and many other.

The projects of the IMF are made possible by DI Leona König, among others, thanks to the assistance of committed supporters. The International Music Foundation therefore thanks the National Bank of Liechtenstein, and also Chopard, the Kronen Zeitung newspaper, the Austrian Lotteries and ORF, and our valued practical sponsors Hotel Sacher, Steinway and Kattus.


MORALMODA MAGZINE PARTIES

Burbiskis Manor

As Burbiskis Manor is an aristocratic, noble and elegant place we love to surprise our guests by delicious food, interesting program, special drinks and much more. We are happy to welcome the people from abroad and to represent Lithuanian culture, by also introducing the history of Burbiskis Manor.

Kicks Off the 2020s with ‘The Great Gatsby’ 3

Burbiskis Manor hosts first

‘The Great Gatsby’ themed party

As Burbiskis Manor is an aristocratic, noble and elegant place we love to surprise our guests by delicious food, interesting program, special drinks and much more. We are happy to welcome the people from abroad and to represent Lithuanian culture, by also 4 introducing the history of Burbiskis Manor. We are the first to create an unique event and parties such as ‘The Great Gatsby’ and James Bond 007, inspired parties for members of Manor only. Burbiskis manor is an architectural monument, dating bacjk to the mid 19th century. The manor was built in 1853 by Anupras Venclo-vavicius. However, the spirit of the manor is represented via the continuation of its former tradition, as well as concerts, art exabitions, board metings, theme parties like this one.

2

7

6 5

Guests attending the lavish party incl.: H.E. Japanese ambassador Shiro Yamasaki and his wife Yuko Yamasaki. Akinori Nagano, Mitsubishi Corporation GM, Biruté and husband Rimantas V, ex opera singer and Chile consultant. Image top above from left: Ieva G., sales manager at Utopia jewellery, Orinta E. H. host and manager of Burbiskis Manor, Simona K., CEO Tuscany bu 1st Class,


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