Haute Couture meets Metaverse

M ORALMO DA VOL 3 ISSUE NO. 47 SPRING 2022 THE WORLD'S 1ST ART & ECO-LUXURY MAGAZINE

MAGAZINE

HAUTE

COUTURE meets

METAVERSE Spring-Summer collections

High Jewellery special:

BOUCHERON new HJ Collection Texts by Adriano Davoli Art Calendar:

TEFAF Maastricht Fondation

Cartier pour l'art

contemporain

Milan

HOMO FABER Venice

LOUVRE

Abu Dhabi & Paris

Courtesy of Patou

Moralmoda is available online and in Asia, Europe & the USA, including;

Signature Flight Lounge Nice Europe's biggest VIP private Jet Aviation

Downtown Dubai

Courtesy of Chaumet

High Jewelry Collection

Chaumet “Déferlante” Bague Déferlante

High Jewelry Collection

Chaumet Bague Transformable Chaumet Déferlante Chaumet.com

38

Contents Cover storyser & Wirt

Contributors p 13

Editor’s Letter p 14 Exclusive Cover Story featuring:

Elite Events 58 St- Moritz Snow Polo

By Corinna Nebgen von Klitzing

34

Haute Horlogerie & High Jewellery 24 Gübelin Jewellery 25 Piaget fine jewellery and cinema

ART The 2022 art guide

by N. Ahmet 16 Homo Faber, at Fondazione Giorgio Cini, by Michaelangelo Foundation, Venice, Italy

18 25 'Versailles & the World' Vacheron Constantin Exhibition at the Louvre Abu The Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Dhabi, UAE 25 Parmigiani Fleurier the 25th anniversary 28 Jacob & Co. and Bugatti Automobiles Jean Bugatti Collection 34 Boucheron High Jewellery 2022 collection, Indian Splendor

by Adriano Davoli

20 TEFAF Maastricht 20 'MOTIF'; 4oth anniversary exhibitio of Sadberk Hanım Museum Istanbul 21 'Seventy Years of The Second Sex' Hauser & Wirth Zurich 22 Interview with curator Dr. Sophie Berrebi, Hauser & Wirth Zurich

71 Style 38 Special from Paris - Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2022 Collections: Valentino, Georges Hobeika, Zuhair Murad, Alexis Mabille, Rami Kadi, Victor & Rolf 59 Paris Fashion Week RTW FW 22/23

57

60 Milan Fashion Week RTW FW 22/23 Social pages: 56 Dubai, Rami Kadi NFT, Louis Vuitton Dinner 57 Paris Fashion Week guests Women of the Year Awards, Vienna

Lifestyle & ART 23 Raymond Depardon at Triennale Milano by Fondation Cartier pour l'art contemporain Yusuke Akamatsu: latest digital artworks, "First Human or Last Human" 24 Artgeneve, Geneva 26 CONCORSO D’ELEGANZA VILLA D’ESTE 20TH TO 22ND MAY 2022, Rolls- Royce ft. Bovet 1822 29 BUGATTI - Monaco 32 WHIMSICAL & WONDERFUL, A MOMENTUS YEAR FOR ROLLSROYCE BESPOKE 65 MUSE art programme by RollsRoyce

29

Crédit photos : L’École des Arts Joailliers.

International Contributors & Editorial Board Members 2022:

©Michelangelo Foundation

Adriano Raquel-Elena Davoli Hernandez Díaz Italy Spain Adriano is an Italian freelance International author,Relations a jewelry for historian "The Diplomatic and a collector, World"a refined connoisseur of magnificent In 2010, she became jewels Director and unique of International gemstones.Relations for A GIA "The graduate Diplomatic in gemology, World" an Adriano organiza-tion, writes subscribed as Jewelryby Expert68and ambas-sadors Consultantandfor Moralmoda chaired by Magazine Her Majesty, since Doña 2019, Sofía on the de Grecia, most important Queen of highSpain. jewelry SheMaison co-organized such as Bulgari, Spanish-Russian Mellerio, Piaget political and Vanforums, Cleef &inArpels.

Munich, OnPrague pages 34-7, and read Madrid, hisattended most recent by the editorial ex-President on the new of Spain elegant and and theevocative Vice President High of Jewelry Russia.

Collection by Boucheron.

Corinna Nebgen von Klitzing Switzerland

Estelle Arielle Yana Leonova, PhD Bouchet United Arab Emirates France

Corinna is Founder and Creative Director of: Deluxe-Dynasty.com, an elite platform focusing on Luxury, Fashion, Lifestyle and Art. She is a Luxury Consultant to the world’s wealthy and Brand Ambassador for several selected high-class brands.

As a fashion and luxury enthusiast she loves to present exclusive style to her clients and audience in well selected environments of Switzerland.

Business Communication Dir. "Méditerranée en Lumière" Moralmoda, The GCC Region mediterranee-en-lumiere.com Estelle is a writer and an Dr.international Leonova journalist. is a strong She has believer in disruptive technospecialized in Art, Costume and logyFashion, transforming modern thus she collaborates industries andNast businesses.

Shethe with Conde supervising provides knowledge-based entire reportage on major issues. consultancy to multitinational She founded the publishing startups, R&D teams in en the house "Méditerranée UAE.Lumière" whose mission is to Dr. protect Leonova is a frequent the Peoples, Cultures speaker and co-organiser and theaSea of the Mareof high-end events devoted to Nostrum. technology (G20 en Foundation Méditerranée Lumière event in Hamburg published “Secret 2017 Egypt”and art during Davos World Economic book, in 2021.

Forum 2020).

Shalini Passi India

Emré Erturk Turkey

Shalini Passi Art Foundation & MASH (My Art Shalini) mashindia.com shalinipassiartfoundation.co m Shalini Passi is the founder of MASH and SPAF (Shalini Passi Art Foundation).

She is an India-based Art and Design collector; Patron; Philanthropist; Advisor and Artist.

See more on instagram.com/mash_india instagram.com/shalini.passi/ en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shali ni_Passi

Designer, VP Moralmoda, Istanbul emrenewyork.com In 2021, Emré Erturk NewYork, celebrated the 25th anniversary with solo Arts shows to honour his art collectors. His design, art and brand are celebrated from Hollywood to India.

Erturk was the IT-handbag designer for the Oscars.

Emré Erturk NewYork is also being used as a case and as a role model at the New York Parsons School of Design.

Liliya Tippetts Principality of Monaco VP Moralmoda, Monaco marlidresses.com ArteLia-Consultancy.com Liliya has an art & business consul-tancy company between London and Monaco (media communication, art & business advisory). She was previously involved in capital raising and wealth management at a London family office. Liliya is also Co-Founder of sustainable fashion label MARLI Dresses (Monaco-London), focusing on designing eco-luxury wardrobe essentials.

Carlos Mundy Spain

Carlos Mundy was born in Spain. From an early age, he was fascinated by music and history.

An art advisor by profession, Carlos Mundy is a published author of several novels and historical essays and currently collaborates as a writer with V Magazine and MoralModa Magazine. Mundy is the co-founder of Moralmoda Special issues that focus on world regions.

EDITOR’S NOTE

D

ear reader,

Thank you for your attention to the topics highlighted in our 47th Exclusive cover. It is a true honour to unveil the 47th issue featuring art and artcrafts.

In anticipation of the Watches & Wonders Geneva edition, April 2022, this issue's concentration is put on the world of Swiss watchmaking in different ways.

You'll notice that we've started the issue off with art pages and the most anticipated fine art events, as we always do.

Artgenève and artmonte-carlo is distinguished by a select group of leading international galleries, showcased in a meticulously designed exhibition space, enriched by a programme of special exhibitions that encourage dialogue between the market and the institutional world.

The two fairs, one inaugurating the annual European calendar of contemporary art fairs during the Geneva winter season and the other starting the beautiful Monegasque season, bring together two important European axes, rich in art spaces and place of residence for numerous art lovers and collectors.

Hauser & Wirth's Zurich gallery hosts an exhibition related to Simone de Beauvoir, who argues for the importance of a shift in our perception of the body as a (living) situation. This is a reciprocal process; the author recognizes that the problem occurs if we don’t acknowledge the reciprocity. One describes oneself as neutral and doesn’t admit the other‘s right to subjectivity. She believes that women are at a higher risk of being threatened as these other women or as objects when they are regarded as assential as opposed to essential.

Beauvoir's ethics, based as it is on an analysis of human temporality and the concrete bonds between particular individuals, ends up being one that is very sensitive to the context of moral choice. Her publications influenced numerous contemporary artists, and you can read more about this discourse in our art pages.

We are very thankful to all our contributors and can proudly share article by Mr Adriano Davoli about the Maison Boucheron, truly Parisian jeweller on Place Vendôme, the address in Paris where Frederic Boucheron was the first to open jewelry store in 93. The Maison records over 150 years of savoir-faire, E i s t h e w o r l d ’ s f i r1s t8& i c a t i o n d e d i c a t e d th o iagr th l i g h t e d i n B o u c h e r o n ' s n e w e s t H i g h J e w e l l e r y C o l l e c t i o n .

. Exclusive insight with news from world's top n k s t o t e a m s i n M oTnhae co, i s s u e p u t s f o c u s o n e n g i n e e r i n g a n d I h o p e I s t a n b u l , L o n d o n , tNee c wh n o l o g i e s w i l l o f f e r c l e a r a d v a n t a g e s i n d a i l y d Paris. correlation to the development of moral ethics and

No. 47 MORALMODA MAGAZINE WWW.MORALMODA.COM NERMIN AHMET, C E O & P R E S I D E N T, LILIYA TIPPETTS, VP MONACO A D R E Q U E S T S: L I L I Y A @ A R T E L I A . C O .

R A Q U E L - H E L E N A H E R N Á N D E Z D Í A Z, FASHION/DESIGN EDITOR-AT-LARGE CARLOS MUNDY, DEPUTY EDITOR, DR. YANA LEONOVA, BUSINESS COMMUNICATION DIRECTOR ESTELLE ARIELLE BOUCHET, STYLE EDITOR, COURCHEVEL A D R I A N O D A V O L I, SENIOR HIGH JEWELLERY EDITOR, RENU CHOUDHARY, J E W E L L E R Y C O N T R I B U T O R, SHALINI PASSI, FINE ART & DESIGN MARGARITA POGOSYAN, RESEARCH EDITOR, MARIA HALL, BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIR. GCC, R O S I T A B H A G W A N D I N, DIGITAL ADVERTISING DIRECTOR, NETHERLANDS AND LUXEMBURG, CORINNA NEBGEN VON KLITZING AMBASSADOR, SWITZERLAND DYNA FAYZ, TRAVEL EDITOR, LONDON B A R O N E S S I S A B E L J I M É N E Z - S Á N C H E Z, DIGITAL PUBLISHING/LUXURY EVENTS MONACO P H O T O G R A P H E R S : S T E F A N A L T E N B U R G E R, STEFAN DIESNER, RAYMOND DEPARDON, MATTEO DE FINA, MICHAEL FURMA, BARBORA GERN, ELISABETH LECHNER, JM M A N A Ï , M I C H A E L M E T T L E R, L U I S A L B E R T O R O D R I G U E Z , P A T R I C K S A W A Y A (C O V E R)

that the new lives, and in discourse.

Although technological progress now occurs at the speed of light, t 2021 ©. o p a r t o f t h e m a t e rI i ahl o p e t h a t o u r m o r a l f o u n d a t i o n s w i l l h e l p u s r e m a i n c o m m i t t e d notice may be prod u c egdo o d a n d s u s t a i n a b l e p r a c t i c e . to

rm or by any means, sion from the Publisher. d o r s e i n c o r r e c t i n fA o so ra l w a y s , their respective brands hose of the publisher.

I wish you a lovely moment with this new issue.

EDITOR, GENEVA, SWITZERLAND

SPECIAL THANKS TO OUR VALUED BRANDS AND PARTNERS: ABU DHABI MAGAZINE, ALDO COPPOLA, AL HABTOOR POLO CLUB, AMBER LOUNGE, ART IN TIME, ARTELIA CONSULTANCY MONACO, BOUCHERON, BOVET 1822, BUGATTI, BRAEMER HOTELS, BUTTERFLY BALL MONACO, CAUDWELL CHILDREN, CHAUMET, CEO CLUBS NETWORK, ELITE CLUB INTERNATIONAL, ETIHAD, FOUR SEASONS, FRANCK MULLER, THE FUTURE OF LUXURY TRAVEL, GREEN COFFEE MONACO, GÜBELIN, IMMERSION4, IMPERIAL COSMETICS, INTERNATIONAL FOUNDATION FOR HIGHLY GIFTED CHILDREN, JABOY PRODUCTIONS, JACOB&CO., LEVIAN, MARLI, MASH, MB&F, METROPOLE MONACO, MONACO ART WEEK, ZUHAIR MURAD, PIAGET, PIRANESI FINE JEWELLERY, PITTI UOMO, ROLLSROYCE, STEFANO RICCI, YALIHAN INTERNATIONAL.

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© Louvre

The trust believes the Maldivian manta population is now stabilized, but that the global picture continues to be one of decline. Its work continues. Carl F. Bucherer is proud to support the trust and its mission to conserve the manta ray. All images courtesy of Carl F. Bucherer.

C

arl F. Bucherer's motto simultaneously incorporates the brand's corporate strategy–"Rooted in the heart of Switzerland but at home everywhere in the World"- with its sustainable aim, through dedicated support to protect animals and the environment even on the other side of the World.

Carl F. Bucherer has been supporting the Manta Trust since 2013 and its remarkable commitment to preserving endan-gered manta rays and the ecosystems and habitats they need to survive.

Since 2017, the brand has produced Patravi ScubaTec watches in support of the trust’s activities, including most recently the 44.6 mm stainless-steel Patravi ScubaTec Maldives (above). A high-performance dive watch has been created to raise awareness of the Manta Trust.

The funding raised by the watch manufacturer has helped raise awareness and enabled crucial research about the eco-systems in which mantas live. As a result, the Manta

Trust team of researchers and educators were given the necessary support "to visit some of the country’s most remote coral reefs and islands, and to gain new insights into the regional populations of manta rays and connect with local communities,” says Guy Stevens, founder and chief executive of the Manta Trust, a British-based charity.

.

This ongoig support form the side of Carl F. Bucherer has culminated in the most recently completed research expedition, led by Stevens, consisting of an international team of 16 researchers, educators and journalists - the Manta Trust Far North Maldives Research Expedition, which concluded on the 17th of November 2021, after 17 nights at sea, 1400 kilometers, 200 manta ray sightings and 35 new manta IDs registered.

The findings from the project, which was entirely funded by the luxury Swiss watch manufacturer Carl F. Bucherer, will support manta conservation efforts for years to come.

Find out more at instagram.com/carlfbucherer and Carl-FBucherer.com.

San Giorgio Maggiore Island. Image: Matteo De Fina ©. Courtesy of the Fondazione Giorgio Cini.

Homo Faber: Arts and Crafts, in Venice Jaeger-LeCoultre HERITAGE ATMOS ATLANTIS from 1999.

Far left: Jaeger-LeCoultre HERITAGE ATMOS NEWSON CALIBRE 566-B from 2010. Jaeger-LeCoultre ©

The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer Jaeger-LeCoultre is one of fifteen luxury Maisons participating in the Homo Faber Event in Venice this spring, which is organised by Michelangelo Foundation for Creativity and Craftsmanship, set to take place on the island of San Giorgio Maggiore from 10 April to 1 May. The 2022 edition highlights craft’s role in creating a more sustainable and inclusive future. World-renowned curators and designers, will curate different themed exhibitions at the magnificent spaces of the Fondazione Giorgio Cini.

This year's edition accommodates an extensive variety of exhibitors in a new unprecedented scope and scale. Thus the event brings together 15 exhibitions, showcasing the work of more than 350 designers and artisans from more than 30 countries. With each exhibition dedicated to a different aspect of craftsmanship, the event will feature exceptional master artisans from Europe, alongside 12 Japanese Living National Treasures – holders of the highest award in the Japanese arts.

Celebration of savoir-faire In 2022, Homo Faber highlights the value of safeguarding craftsmanship by making these time-honoured skills

economically viable and ensuring their transmission to new generations – thus promoting a more human, inclusive and sustainable future.

Homo Faber celebrates the savoir-faire and unique stories of talented artisans from around the globe, honouring the priceless human skill behind the creation of exquisite objects.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Chosen for its exceptional savoir-faire in watchmaking, Jaeger-LeCoultre is one of luxury Maisons featured in the Genealogies of Ornament exhibition, the other 14 are, Alaïa, Couture SculptureA. Lange & Söhne, engraving; Aquaflor, perfumery; Buccellati, fine silversmithing; Cartier, glyptics; Chiso, yuzen kimono; Dolce&Gabbana, Alta Sartoria – Men’s tailoring; Hermès, the “velours au sabre” technique (velvet cut); Maison Lemarié, feathers, flowers, couture sewing and pleating; Piaget, gold crafting; Serapian, Mosaico leather goods; Vacheron Constantin in partnership with The Musée du Louvre, watchmaking, gem-setting, enamelling and engraving; Van Cleef & Arpels, jewellery; and YOOX NET-APORTER Group and The Prince's Foundation, responsible luxury garment making.

Masterminded by Judith Clark, a renowned exhibition-creator and fashion curator, the exhibition highlights the connections between craft, the wider arts and the design world, demonstrating the transformative power of craftsmanship and revealing the lineage – or genealogy -

of each craft: specific traditions handed down from generation to generation.

Running on air - the Atmos clock Mankind has long been fascinated by the idea of perpetual motion machines – devices that work autonomously and forever, with no external source of energy But nobody has ever succeeded in making one, for the simple reason that, according to the laws of physics, it is impossible.

An icon in the true sense, the Atmos has become recognised around the world as a symbol of Swiss craftsmanship and ingenuity.

However, Jaeger-LeCoultre is able to produce a device that comes closer to perpetual operation than any other mechanism.

In 1928, Reutter, a Neuchâtel-born radiological engineer, introduced a prototype clock – now known as Atmos 0 – that seemed to defy the laws of physics: with no need for batteries, electricity, or routine rewinding, it could operate for centuries without wearing out or requiring any external intervention.

The mechanical principle behind the Atmos is simple, albeit extremely difficult to execute: the energy required to drive the clock is supplied by normal, everyday fluctuations in air temperature. Thermal energy is transformed into mechanical energy, which drives the movement of the balance.

The slightest temperature variation - a change of just one degree Celsius can power the clock for 48 hours.

By N. Ahmet Information and tickets, at Homofaber.com.

Moralmoda Magazine ART | 17

'Versailles & the Wo Louvre Abu Dhabi, UAE, from 26 January - 4 June 2022 Pursuing Louvre Abu Dhabi’s aim of showcasing exclusive artwork collections to a broader public, the visitors in Abu Dhabi can discover the universe of Versailles, its rich cultural heritage and mechanisms of power execution, featuring a selection of masterpieces from the collections of the Palace of Versailles, along with major artworks from other French collections (Louvre Museum, National Library of France, Museum of Decorative Arts, etc.), and items on loan from renowned international institutions, such as the British Royal Collection.

The exhibition is organised by Louvre Abu Dhabi, in partnership with Musée national des châteaux de Versailles et de Trianon with the support of France Muséums, the exhibition will showcase the history of the royal court at Versailles and gathers unique art objects, paintings, furniture, and sculptures from Versailles and other French and international collections.

This gives the public the opportunity to understand how the Sun King’s palace played a key role in the Ancien Régime.

A Palace open to the World As the seat of royal power, the Palace of Versailles received visitors from all over the world, which fuelled the Court’s fascination with other civilizations it was beginning to discover.

As Manuel Rabaté, Director of Louvre Abu Dhabi, said: “This exhibition sheds new light on the complex network of diplomacy, commerce and creativity that helped shape the culture of a globalising age.”

world. The appeal of this “unrivalled palace” and its huge gardens designed by Le Nôtre resulted in a relentless parade of travellers, princes and ambassadors, artists and merchants, architects and scientists, philosophers and adventurers from every continent.

Versailles acted as a key diplomatic instrument in the policy of promoting the Crown’s grandeur abroad, by amazing special ambassadors and foreign royalty with grand ceremonies.

At the same time, acquiring scientific knowledge about the world became a political issue for Louis XIV and his successors: their initiatives in the fields of botany, zoology, astronomy, or in launching great expeditions, and so on, enabled the Kings of France to highlight their modernity and power.

Exoticism at Versailles The exhibition’s second part focuses on exchanges and fascination with the East.

Versailles became the focal point of East-West artistic exchanges, resulting in the development of Turkish and Chinese decorative art and objects.

These encounters contributed to changing the tastes of the French Kings and the entire Court, thereby fostering the birth of new trade exchanges – the exoticism was everywhere.

The first part of the exhibition explores the cultural diversity of visitors who came to Versailles from all over the world, marking the birth of modern-day tourism in the 17th century. Based on the principle that King Louis XIV should be constantly visible, the palace was open to visitors and became truly open to the

Attributed to Étienne Allegrain (1644-1736) ca. 1695 Oil on canvas Palace of Versailles © Château de Versailles, Dist. RMN © JM Manaï. © Succession Ivan Morozov.

Between the Heavens and Earth The third section of the exhibition highlights the scientific policy implemented by France in the 17th century, driven by Colbert, as the Royal Court became aware of the diplomatic, strategic and commercial importance of developing a genuine scientific policy.

The exhibition co-curators Hélène Delalex, Heritage Curator and Bertrand Rondot, Chief Curator at the Department of Furniture and Decorative Arts at the Musée national des Châteaux de Versailles et de Trianon, said: “Curiosity was the driving force at Versailles in the 17th and 18th centuries (…) ideas and motifs were appropriated, not just from the Islamic and oriental worlds, but from other European nations such as England and Italy.”

The creation of the French Academy of Sciences in 1666 brought together the greatest scientists in Europe, and led to the discoveries that would shift people’s conceptions of the world, where the Versailles estate became a microcosm of hotspots. By N. Ahmet Discover more on, Louvre.com.

© Department of Culture and Tourism Abu Dhabi. Louvre Abu Dhabi

rld'

All images courtesy of labiennaleparis.com.

Wildenstein & Co. Inc. Showcases Exquisite Gouaches of Versailles, circa 1680, attributed to the artist Henri Gascar (1635–1701). Gouache and gold on vellum laid on oak panel. 22.4 x 42.8 cm.

The Sèvres Brings Limited Edition Work Signed by Doshi Levien. A new dealer to TEFAF and one of the most venerated porcelain manufacturers in Europe, Sèvres will offer Chandigarh Cabinet, 2017, from Doshi Levien. Enameled porcelain, porcelain biscuit, 24 carats gold, lacquered wood, metal, and brass 100 x 45 x 81 cm. Al images courtesy of TEFAF 2020 edition.

The European Fine Art Foundation (TEFAF) confirms today that the 35th edition of TEFAF Maastricht will take place Saturday, June 25 – Thursday, June 30, 2022 (by invitation only June 24 and until 2PM on June 25) at the MECC in Maastricht.

TEFAF Maastricht will accommodate an extensive variety of exhibitors in a new floorplan for this 35th anniversary edition. Details of exhibiting galleries and further announcements on the June fair will be announced shortly.

th TEFAF Maastricht

Originally due to take place in March, TEFAF Maastricht was postponed. The dates were agreed by TEFAF’s Board of Trustees and its Executive Committee, which comprises 13 dealers who represent the interests of the fair’s exhibitors and seven non- dealers.

TEFAF Chairman, Hidde van Seggelen, said "We are proud to join several other leading art fairs in June for a key moment in the art world calendar this year."

Since 1988, the fair is platform for leading antique dealers and among collectors is renowned for showing exceptional works of art, the fair presents unique artworks as a not-for-profit organization that champions expertise, scholarship, and variety in the global art community and is highly respected for its meticulous vetting standards. By N. Ahmet. See also Tefaf.com.

Cartier Art Deco natural pearl and diamond necklace, circa 1930, presented by FD Gallery, New York, is a one-of-a-kind creation from the most sought after period of Cartier’s storied history.

Asking price, US$300,000–500,000.Natural pearls, diamonds, and platinum, 15 x 19.5 cm.

MOTIF; Sadberk Hanım Museum 40th anniversary exhibition from the Sadberk Hanım Museum Collection, Ístanbul 9 November 2020 - 29 May 2022 Sadberk Hanım Museum's collection has grown rapidly from around 3000 objects when the museum was founded four decades ago to now over 20,000 objects.

Archaeological items representing the material culture of the numerous civilisations that arose in Anatolia date from between 6000 BC up to the end of the Byzantine period (1453), are shown

Moralmoda Magazine ART | 20

in the Sevgi Gönül Building, while the predominantly Ottoman period Islamic works, are exhibited in the Azaryan Yalısı, in Turkey's first private museum.

Sadberk Hanım Museum Library The museum welcomes academic researchers conducting research in its collections or museum's leading private

specialist library, with a collection of 11,389 printed and 668 manuscript books. Of particular importance are the 421 rare sâlnâme yearbooks, which is the largest sâlnâme collection in any private library in Turkey and ranks among the top five collections in all libraries in the country. More about the 40th anniversary exhibit, Sadberkhanimmuzesi.org.tr.

'Seventy The Second Sex' Years of Hauser & Wirth Zurich, Limmatstrasse 24 March - 21 May 2022

Hauser & Wirth’s Zurich gallery presents an exhibition curated by Dr. Sophie Berrebi that examines the dialogue between artists like Louise Bourgeois, Geta Brătescu, Eva Hesse, Roni Horn, Zoe Leonard, Lee Lozano, Annak Lou Pitteloud, Cindy Sherman, and Lorna Simpson with Simone de Beauvoir’s moral ideas and their legacy.

The works on display relate in some way to Simone de Beauvoir’s moral approach proposed in "The Second Sex" (1949), either by appropriating the author's ideas, "complicating them or underlining the blind spots in Beauvoir’s thinking. In all cases, they continue the conversation," says Dr. Berrebi.

‘The Second Sex’ At the very centre of the conversation is the author's work, which inspired many to develop radical new artworks and expressions.

The artist's contribution is based on how we define and describe women in art.

The exhibition in Zurich puts on view the precise manner in which artists have approached the use of terms such as woman, female, and womanhood; through art, they seek to emancipate women from social construction and propose new ways of thinking that are non-objective; and the relationship between art, society, and the individual.

Ethics of Ambiguity The exhibition explores artworks from the perspective of moral discourse, founded on the existential ethics of French philosopher Simone de Beauvoir. The setting for Simone de Beauvoir’s existential ethics is the post-war era of the 1940s, which was characterised by great uncertainty. This era brought up the question of our mere human existence.

Not only were people irresolute about what tomorrow would bring, but they were also questioning whether they had the right to hope for a tomorrow. This meant that society was lacking a course to adhere to in the question of how to continue living in such an unstructured era. And how should individuals interact in society and relate to each other after social change, like French women's right to vote in 1944?

Nevertheless, men reclaimed their ordinary jobs by the end of the decade, in an approach to the role of a man as a "bread-winner" during the development of the post-war welfare society.

This relapse of mindset contributed to the development of the author’s views in The Ethics of Ambiguity (1947). Emphasising Kantian moral philosophy, Beauvoir stresses the importance of human freedom in her existential ethics, holding that all of us are responsible for each other and every being, but the moral obligation is context-sensitive, and we can’t always judge what is good and what is freedom for others.

In her 1947 work, Simone de Beauvoir lays out the framework of an existentialist ethics. One of the central tenets of existentialism is that all values spring from human freedom.

From these previous quotations, one can safely infer that Beauvoir’s ethics is strongly anti-paternalistic. Whatever an individual's happiness may turn out to be, it is not something that can be determined by someone else and imposed from the outside. The good of others is "an absolute end," Beauvoir states, "but we are not authorized to decide upon this end a priori."

Yet, by postulating two levels of freedom, Beauvoir avoids the overly rigorous position that one may never intercede in the decisions of others.

Transcendence can help women and other repressed groups shape their own futures and create possibilities if they are given the possibility to do this. But in order to achieve this, it is required of them to reach out for their legal rights, even if they are not given. Women have not organized themselves, and de Beauvoir is concerned

Above left: Cindy Sherman, Untitled, 2019, Dye sublimation print, Courtesy the artist and Hauser & Wirth © Cindy Sherman. Right: Louise Bourgeois, Femme Maison, 1994, White marble, 12.1 x 24.4 x 7.6 cm. © The Easton Foundation / 2022, ProLitteris, Zurich.

Moral freedom Thus, an existentialist ethics must be founded on a person's freedom.

Whereas all humans are perceived as free within existentialism, according to Beauvoir, the moral person takes a certain stance towards his or her freedom. If one wills himself free by affirming one’s freedom instead of running from it or denying it, one can achieve what Beauvoir calls genuine or moral freedom: "To will oneself free is to effect the transition from nature to morality by establishing a genuine freedom on the original upsurge of our existence."

In postulating two different levels of freedom like this, namely, natural freedom and moral freedom, Beauvoir was undoubtedly influenced by the moral philosophy of Immanuel Kant.

about why. In her view, they have been subdued to positions which prevent them from taking part in history by staying in the household and being subordinate to men, thus losing their subjectivity and individuality. De Beauvoir’s ethics is opposed to a society that didn’t manage to ensure transdence happened for women and even other groups.

The concepts used by the author are ontological freedom (where all are free), moral freedom, and freedom in a situation, which enables one to define a woman and a feminine body when the body as an object is perceived from another point of view. As a result, understanding the body's potential or lack thereof in the lived context becomes crucial. The problem emerges when the body is reduced to being an object. By Nermin A. Moralmoda.com

Hauser & Wirth presents 'Seventy Years of The Second Sex', a group exhibition in one of its galleries in Zurich. This show aims to instigate a conversation about Simone de Beauvoir's groundbreaking study, 'The Second Sex" with and through contemporary art.

We talk to the exhibit’s curator Dr. Berrebi about intentions and wishes to present these works to the Zurich public.

Dr. Sophie Berrebi: When I proposed this exhibition to the gallery, I was teaching students about De Beauvoir and ‘The Second Sex’ and I felt this urgency, speaking to a younger generation, of inviting them to read the book, of inviting them to constantly be aware of how patriarchy is still a dominant force in society and that it is too easy to fall back into traditional roles and attitudes ascribed to women in society rather than explore, invent, create other roles and behaviours.

At the same time, I felt that this exhibition topic echoed the DNA of Hauser & Wirth, and its emphasis on female artists, an emphasis that goes back to Ursula Hauser and her collection. I remembered seeing a film, in which Ursula Hauser explains her admiration for older female artists whom she met when she began collecting: Meret Oppenheim (who is an important reference for Lou-Pitteloud) and Louise Bourgeois. This statement is beautiful, and rather radical if you think of the way in which the art world has tended to favour younger female artists (and young artists in general). So for me, to invite visitors to keep in sight Beauvoir's discourse as well as feminism as it has developed in the seventy years since the publication of her book.

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MM: This exhibition features pieces by Louise Bourgeois, Geta Brtescu, Eva Hesse, Roni Horn, Zoe Leonard, Lee Lozano, Annak Lou Pitteloud, Cindy Sherman, and Lorna Simpson, which you curated.

How did you select this particular collection of artists, other from the obvious pairing of Hesse and Bourgeois?

Dr. S. Berrebi: The artists in the show are all, first of all, amazing artists whose works span the second half of the twentieth century until the present day.

Further to this, they are all artists that have accompanied me over the years.

Louis Bourgeois and Eva Hesse I discovered as an art student, Lorna Simpson and Roni Horn, later on, as a young art critic. Cindy Sherman, I discuss with my students at university, Zoe Leonard I wrote about in my first book, and Annaik Lou Pitteloud is someone with whom I have daily discussions nowadays about feminism, art and politics. So together, these artists are part of my life, which means that they are part of discovering the world. They constitute an aesthetic and intellectual horizon.

M. M.: What art movements were the first to be influenced by Beauvoir's moral philosophy and ideas? Do you believe that Simone de Beauvoir was influenced by any particular art movements?

Dr. S. Berrebi: Thanks for your question. It is hard for me to answer in general, although I would argue that works of art philosophise in a way that is different but equivalent to the way that philosophers do. When it comes to making a thematic exhibition, it's crucial that art works are

not there to illustrate the theme in any way. Here my aim was to present works that simply, in their very existence, claim a space, claim a creative path, and develop an independent intellectual and formal endeavour.

The selection of the works is quite personal, these are works that I intuitively went towards when thinking about ‘The Second Sex’. Reading back some portions of it very recently, I was amazed by the way in which she writes very frankly about sex, about power relations within heterosexual intercourse, and that is why the works by Lee Lozano are so important in the exhibition. They are the first works that the viewer sees in the show and they engulf them in an incredible maelstrom of sensuousness, power, violence and intimacy that for me echoes passages of ‘The Second Sex’ about sexuality. But Lozano's work also have a dark humour that is not present in the book .

MM: Dr. Berrebi, you write: "The works on display in this exhibition, in some cases, appropriate ideas from "The Second Sex." In others, they might illuminate, muddle, complicate, or underscore the blind spots in Beauvoir’s thinking. In all cases, they continue the conversation." Could you elaborate on this?

Dr. S. Berrebi: So, I guess that my ideal viewer would be triggered into thinking about what it means to be a woman and what it means to be an artist when they see the show, that they will respond to the works imaginatively, viscerally, that the work will in different ways, take the viewer in a journey. I also hope it will make people who have not read ‘The Second Sex’ want to read the book, or read other feminist texts, and those who have read it, to remember it. We have installed a reading corner in the bookstore of Hauser & Wirth Publishers, exactly for this purpose.

Above: Lee Lozano. No title. 1963-1964.Oil on canvas, two parts 175.3 x 254 cm. © The Estate of Lee Lozano. Courtesy Hauser & Wirth. Photo: Stefan Altenburger Photography Zürich.

Below: Lee Lozano, No title, 1963, Conté on paper: 27.4 x 35 cm. ©The Estate of Lee Lozano. Courtesy Hauser & Wirth. Photo: Barbora Gern.

Yusuke Akamatsu, Rainy Night, 2022, 1708x1280.jpeg Tokyo, €12.000.00. © Yusuke Akamatsu

MM: Being an award-winning author and art historian, you are launching your first novel, "The Sharing Economy" (Simon & Schuster) in 2023. Will this novel have a link or be inspired by themes studied in this exhibition?

Dr. S. Berrebi: My novel, ‘The Sharing Economy’, is very much inspired and triggered by ‘The Second Sex’. It is a reflection about sexual freedom and womanhood in the digital age, and in the story this reflection takes place, among other ways, through the contemplation of works of art, and notably a work by Roni Horn which is not in the exhibition.

And yet, the presence of Roni Horn in the exhibition and the novel is an important connection between one and the other, and so is the short story that I wrote especially for the exhibition, which is a way of marking the continuity between the spaces of curating and of fiction writing. Info, HauserWirth.com.

Paris-based artist Yusuke Akamatsu unveils his latest digital artworks, which are part of his body of work under new theme "First Human or Last Human".

'La Vita Moderna',

at Triennale Milano by Fondation Cartier pour l'art contemporain Milan from 15 October 2021 to 10 April 2022

Raymond Depardon Fondation Cartier pour l'art contemporain is pursuing the Fondation’s mission of showcasing at Triennale Milano to a broader public. Now in its second year of collaboration with Triennale Milano the Foundation presents 'La Vita Moderna' a solo show by French photographer and filmmaker, Raymond Depardon.

Bringing together three hundred photographs and two films, La Vita Moderna is the largest exhibition of the artist who, since the 1970s, has profoundly renewed the world of the contemporary image. Specially created for Milan, the exhibition reveals, through many of his most emblematic series, how much Italy inhabits his work.

The exhibition La Vita Moderna shows the richness of Raymond Depardon's work, the diversity of his subjects, and the coherence of his journey, through eight photographic series, two films, and all the books he has published.

Raymond Depardon. © Fondation Cartier

Borrowing its title from the film that concluded the Profils paysans trilogy in 2008, the exhibition leads the visitor through a succession of questions that run through the artist's entire body of work: Which subjects call for colour and which call for black and white? How can the transformations of a landscape be evoked in an image? Where should the photographer stand and what is the ideal distance from the subject? How can we detach ourselves from the event to reveal the margins and borders?

What is modernity in photography when you walk through a rural area or cross the streets of a post-industrial city?

Here the dualism – between black and white and colour, between faces and landscapes, between ancestral land and modernity – does not lead to antagonism, but reveals an attention to the world, a curiosity in motion, an open approach to the diversity of our age.

La Vita Moderna has been specially created for the Triennale Milano with the participation of the artist JeanMichel Alberola and set against a scenographic backdrop designed by Théa Alberola. See other shows from the Fondation on FondationCartier.com.

Set to explore profoud existential themes, Akamatsu awakes his inherent curisity and poses questions, what is important to humans?

When it is lost, humans begin to disassamble, he argues, which leads to new questioning. Are we the first Human beings? Or will be the last Human? See also artpage, YusukeAkamats.com.

Yusuke Akamatsu, At the Border, 2022, 2798x3770.jpeg, Paris / London / Milan mix, €9.000.00. © Yusuke Akamatsu

The exhibition is not intended as a manual for the book, but rather takes into account the fact that its ideas have been disseminated so widely that anyone who has some sense of what it is to be a woman, a man, or to be non-binary, will sense something in the show.

Beyond that, to give some pointers, Lorna Simpson and Roni Horn address issues that intersect feminism, a reflection on gender or race that Beauvoir does not address, especially not in her book. The works of Brătescu, Hesse and Pitteoud reflect on the woman as artist, which is the subject of a long passage at the end of volume 2 of ‘The Second Sex’.

And Bourgeois' theme of the ‘Femme Maison’, a woman whose head is replaced by a house, is a simple and powerful image of a woman blinded by her domestic environment.

Gübelin at artgenève Gübelin Jewellery is once again a partner of the artgenève international art fair in Geneva, Switzerland.

Artgenève offered an extensive programme of modern and contemporary art as one of the inaugural events in the annual European calendar of contemporary art fairs during the Geneva winter season.

Courtesy of Gübelin.

At artgenève's 10th anniversary edition, Gubelin Jewellery, a family-run company with a base in Lucerne, unveiled a high jewellery creation, the Flaming Grace cocktail ring, and a collaboration with the Geneva-born artist Thomas Liu Le Lann, who presented the glass sculpture "Before Shade and Indifference; Kunstbot IV; Aurora Capsule". The two works of art take their inspiration from the inner world of the padparadscha sapphire.

We seek to actively contribute to promoting and supporting creativity. It is fully in keeping with our company philosophy to share our inspiration.

The artgenève fair offers an exciting venue for an exchange of ideas and inspiration.”

Le Lann (above second on left) continues his work in the medium of glass, with his new artwork in the style of 80s-era space robotics. Again, the choice of colours is based on the padparadscha sapphire with the sculpture consisting of blown glass in translucent pink and opaque orange.

Art collectors can look forward to the next edition of artmonte-carlo that will take place from the 14th to the 16th of July 2022 at the Grimaldi Forum Monaco.

The VIP Preview will take place on Wednesday, July 13.

Raphael Gübelin, President of the House of Gübelin.

Pink-orange padparadscha sapphire As in the artwork, the inner world of the pink-orange padparadscha sapphire from Sri Lanka weighing over 9 carats inspired Gübelin Jewellery to create the Flaming Grace cocktail ring. The unique structures and shapes contained within this superb padparadscha reminded the designers of the elegant plumage of the flamingos that are also native to Sri Lanka.

This sculpturally crafted cocktail ring is set with the oval padparadscha, pastel-coloured sapphires and diamonds totalling more than 17 carats in a refined mix of cuts.

By N. Ahmet.

What is padparadscha sapphire?

Sapphires glitter in all the colours of the rainbow. Blue sapphires are the best known, but the rarest is the orange-pink variety, which is even referred to under its own name: padparadscha.

This highly sought-after gemstone displays a mixture of delicate pink and orange. Its subtle play of colours is reminiscent of a sunrise on Sri Lanka, the island in the Indian Ocean where padparadschas were first discovered.

Moralmoda Magazine Art/Haute Joaillerie| 24

See more on, Gubelin.com.

The early months of 2020 saw unprecedented changes in the movie industry as Hollywood attempted figure out how best to respond a global crisis. Two years later the movie is back in business and Piaget is participating as the exclusive watch and jewellery partner to star-packed The 355, (Universal Pictures, January 7, 2022), which cost $40 million to produce, and landed in third place on USA domestic box office charts.

International all-star action tale turns up the glamour with Piaget’s iconic creations, award winning Altiplano timepieces, and High Jewellery, that adorn the star cast, Jessica Chastain the Academy Award® nominee, Diane Kruger, (In the Fade), Oscar® winners Lupita Nyong’o and Penélope Cruz (right). The film also stars Bingbing Fan, Édgar Ramirez and Sebastian Stan.

Directed by genre-defying filmmaker Simon Kinberg (Dark Phoenix, The Martian, X-Men and more films). Produced by Chastain and Kelly Carmichael for Chastain’s Freckle Films and by Kinberg for his Kinberg Genre Films, the film is executive produced by Richard Hewitt (Bohemian Rhapsody), Piaget.com.

COURTESY OF UNIVERSAL PICTURES

Piaget celebrated in star-packed The 355

Vacheron Constantin sublimely pairs craftsmanship and Haute Horlogerie

Grand Complication - Bacchus 9700C/000R-B755

The Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication is a one-of-akind edition that showcases Vacheron Constantin's savoir-faire in big complexity powered by Calibre 2755 GC16. Comprising 839 parts and measuring a total 33.90 mm in diameter and 12.15 mm thick, this movement endowed with a 58-hour power reserve represents a technical feat that is all the rarer in that it displays all its functions in a perfectly legible manner on both sides.

Housed in a 47 mm-diameter 18K 5N pink gold case, of which the characteristics been specifically designed to provide the best possible sound quality for the minute repeater, with 16 complications, primarily astronomical and calendar-related it is a technical marvel, Vacheron-constantin.com.

Parmigiani Fleurier celebrates 25th anniversary and new purist design The Swiss watchmaker's makeover combines pure aesthetics, a new monogram logo, and the maison's most iconic in-house movements, as symbolized by the one-of-a-kind TONDA PF series, which celebrates the maison's 25th anniversary.

Through balanced geometry, sense of detail, pattern, shape, and curve, Parmigiani Fleurier's cutting-edge watchmaking is combined with sharpness, precision, and uncompromising design to improve wearability and deliver the best experience for the user. This is the brand's most recent and forwardthinking collection, which coincidentally marks the 25th anniversary of the premium watchmaker.

Images courtesy of Parmigiani Fleurier.

TONDA PF affirms its place in the Haute Horlogerie of today and tomorrow as a timepiece that sacrifices nothing to the excellence of Swiss watchmaking craftsmanship. The rebranding has completely eliminated the unnesesary design solutions. Thus the case band is not straight, but slightly bassiné, i.e. wider near the bezel and narrower on the wrist. This provides the overall design with a sense of increased slimness. © Parmigiani.com

We notice increased wearability in polished finishes on the new integrated bracelet, as well as aesthetics. The limitededition, all-platinum Tonda PF Split Seconds Chronograph is the collection's crown jewel (left). It also features an awardwinning split-seconds chronograph, which has been upgraded for the limited anniversary edition, Parmigiani.com.

Moralmoda Magazine Haute Horlogerie | 25

Image courtesy of rolls-roycemotorcars.com

The world’s most exclusive and traditional heritage event for historic automobiles and motorcycles will be held once more on the shores of Lake Como, Italy, in 2022.

The most beautiful classic vehicles will be presented at Cernobbio in Northern Italy from 20 to 22 May 2022.

Images copyright Rolls-Royce Motorcars.

COACHBUILT MASTERPIECE 'BOAT TAIL' in COLLABORATION with BOVET1822 DURING ITS 2021 GLOBAL DEBUT AT VILLA D'ESTE

Rolls-roycemotorcars.com

JACOB & CO. AND BUGATTI AUTOMOBILES CELEBRATE JOINT PASSIONS QUA

JEAN BUGATTI TIMEPIECES Jacob & Co. and Bugatti Automobiles.'s joint passion for watchmaking excellence, debuted in 2019, as the two limit-breaking brands joined forces in a quest for hyper luxury performance in an unprecedented collaboration between car manufacturer Bugatti's team with the watch manufacturer team of Jacob&Co. They astounded at Baselworld 2019, with two collections-that highlight the masterful savoir-faire of both brands-the 110year anniversary Twin Turbo Furious edition watch and the EpicX Chrono. The companies rewards us already with an all-new line of exclusive co-branded products after launching recently Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon in 2020, that reflected in the most impressive and detailed way the heart of Bugatti Emirates’ First Class private suites have remained the Chiron car, revealing an industry gold standard since it was first introduced in 2003, irresistible surprise for and this ultimate experience in luxury and privacy has been car enthusiasts and any regularly enhanced and refined. watch lover; the floating movement recreated in Jean Bugatti (above) was a Renaissance man, versed in 578 components Bugatti all knowledge, he was a racer, an engineer, an Chiron's heart. automotive designer, and a business leader. He had inherited the qualities of all sides of his family, which wasn't short on geniuses. His artistic mind came from his grandfather, furniture designer and craftsman Carlo Bugatti. His sense of design was shared with his uncle, sculptor Rembrandt Bugatti. And his instinctive understanding of all things automotive he took from his father, Ettore Bugatti. As the eldest son of founder Ettore Bugatti, born in 1909, the same year when Ettore set up his new company in Molsheim, Alsace, in north-eastern France he went beyond this incredible heritage and created automobiles and engines in his own, unique way. At the helm of the company his father founded at age 27, he took charge of developing street-legal cars and race cars that left a mark on their era, such as the Type 50 series.

Jean Bugatti With Jean Bugatti, the Swiss watchmaker is celebrating a man who is remembered as an iconic carmaker for his revolutionary design.

Yet its powerful manual winding movement Calibre JCFM09 features a pair of one-minute flying tourbillons. A high frequency, double retrograde chronograph with split hands and a digital jumping 30min counter, pairs the iconic Bugatti design with Jacob & Co's art of watch-making. It exists in two collections of 57 pieces each.

On a quest though history

a real historic Jean Bugatti Collection A revolutionary chronograph When the start/stop pusher is activated, the first hand starts moving from 0 to 10. As it reaches 10, it jumps backwards Emirates to 0 and starts its course while theof sustainability Pavilion’s construction phasesanew followed a number using non-hazardous, regional, reusable andtime recyclable materials other handprinciples, has jumped forward, from 00 to 01. As in itsfirst overall structure, andhand incorporated solutions to reduce advances, the retrograde keepsdifferent movingdesign up like energy and water consumption. the rpms on a dash board counter and back as the gears change. The other one soon reaches 60, at which point it also jumps backwards to 00.

Images: (left), the legendary Type 57SC Atlantic (center), 1938 Type 57 Atalante, (below) 1936 Bugatti Tank.. ©Michael Furman

At that point, in the oval medallion at 6 o'clock, a disc with gilded numerals has instantly jumped from 00 to 01.

This 30-minute counter is made of sapphire in order not to dim the view on the pair of tourbillons. This separate second with double retrograde hands and a digital jumping minute disc is a completely unique feature.

A delicate energy management Furthermore, when the chronograph is stopped and reset, the seconds' hands cannot jump backwards as the spring that propels them backwards hasn't gathered sufficient energy. To manage this very complex and unique chronograph, calibre JCFM09 is

fitted with a double set of regulating organs. A small balance wheel is located at the back of the movement. It's dedicated to the chronograph operation, as is a separate barrel. Together, they allow a two-hour power reserve of high accuracy measurement. Coordinated by a column wheel of extremely fine construction, this chronograph has been designed to offer the smoothest running possible and the best haptic return. The strength required to engage the pushers is minimal.

A unique challenge To conclude that Jean Bugatti may just be Jacob & Co.'s most demanding watchmaking project ever is not an overstatement.

Even for the creator of uber-complications such as the Astronomia, Twin Turbo Fast & Furious or Bugatti Chiron, the development and manufacturing of calibre JCFM09 presented a series of intense challenges.

The thinness of many components is so extreme, the pressure Diameter: 41.55 mm. Components: 470 Functions: Peripheral Hours and Minutes; Chronograph with Retrograde, Separate Tens andUnits of Seconds' Hands; Digital, Jumping 30-Minute Counter at 6 o’clock.

Images courtesy Jacob & Co.

Movement Power Reserve: 48 Hours Frequency: 21’600 vph Chronograph Power Reserve: 2 Hours Frequency: 36’000 vph (5 Hz) Jewels: 92

Finishings: Black Chromium, Circular-grained Mainplate; Polished and Beveled Bridges; Openworked, Beveled and Horizontal-grained Levers and Clutches; Gold-Plated, Openworked Balance-wheel Bridge; Sand-blasted Barrels. Mirror-polished, Beveled, EB-shaped Tourbillon Cages. Retail price: $250,000 each version

they're under so high and so frequent, the management of forces and energy within the movement so complex, it can at times have felt almost unfeasible. This sophistication is immediately visible as one flips the Jean Bugatti to take a look at the caseback and the movement.

A peripheral vision of time The dial's center is occupied by the chronograph hands, so where are the hours and minutes hands? Pointing inwards, located on the extreme rim of the dial, two short, red hands provide that essential indication. As they run on the same scale, and cross paths as the minute pointer catches up with the hour pointer, adjustment in their elevation allows for smooth passage every hour.

Hours and minute hands are directly linked to the movement's time-operating parts, regulated by a pair of one-minute tourbillons, running at 21'600 vp hand operating side by side.

Their timing information may differ slightly, as is the purpose of twin tourbillons. A spring-clutch located between them averages out their running and provides the movement with unified, chronometrically enhanced timekeeping.

Twin tourbillons - a dual brain Calibre JCFM09 is made of a total of 470 components. This unusually high number is a direct consequence of the movement's dual structure. On the same main plate, two different and interconnected systems co-exist. One is the timekeeping part, with a dedicated barrel, gear train, twin tourbillons, all of which drive the peripheral display. The other construction followed a number is the chronographEmirates part. ItPavilion’s possesses its ownphases barrel, stacked on of sustainability principles, using non-hazardous, regional, reusable and recyclable materials top of the other toinshare access to hand-winding operated its overall structure, and incorporated different designby solutions to reduce the crown. This barrel is and linked a dedicated regulating organ, energy waterto consumption. with a short hairspring, allowing the smooth balance wheel to oscillate at 36'000 beats per hour, or 5 Hz. It sits in between the flying tourbillons. When the elaborate system of clutches are engaged by the pushers and coordinated by the column wheel, the balance wheel immediately reaches its optimal amplitude and frequency to drive the chronograph hands with maximum precision.

An inner beauty of Calibre JCFM09 But the complexity of the chronograph operations is even higher than that. A star-shaped wheel drives the instantaneous jump of the 30-minute counter disc. Overall, the graphic impression left by calibre JCFM09 is impressive.

The openworked components are highly-polished and beveled.

They stand out against the backdrop of a circular-grained, all blacked-out main plate. A forest of springs, levers, clutches and impressive mirror-polished bridges create a dense technical environment that draws the eye and arouses the viewer's curiosity. In that respect, as in many others, the Jean Bugatti would impress the very person whose name and legacy this timepiece celebrates. See also Jacobandco.com. By N. Ahmet

Bugatti and Segond Automobiles Group new partnership story,

based in the Principality of Monaco Monaco and motor racing have inseparable history. Since 1929, when the legendary Circuit de Monaco hosted its first Grand Prix, Bugatti's racing pedigree has been a part of the Principality's history. William "Williams" Charles Frederick Grover, in his Bugatti Type 35B, was the winner.

On that day, Bugatti proved the Type 35's superiority by taking five of the top six finishing positions. Since since, the infamously small and twisty race circuit has become synonymous with motor racing's peak.

Today, Bugatti partners with Segond Automobiles Group to strengthen its ties with the Principality of Monaco, Bugatti.com.

Image courtesy Bugatti.com

Moralmoda.com

Image courtesy Bugatti.com

WHIMSICAL & WONDERFUL, A MOMENTUS YEAR FOR ROLLS-ROYCE BESPOKE

PHANTOM ORCHID AN INSPIRATIONAL SYMBOL FOR OUR TIMES This one-of-a-kind Phantom Orchid has been designed for Singapore. The orchid was selected as an inspirational theme for resilience, beauty and strength. Orchids have long been a focal point for art through the ages, but this is the first time they have been chosen for a Rolls-Royce commission.

Helen Amy Murray and her team of six have undertaken pioneering bespoke work with Phantom’s Gallery – luxury reinterpretation of a motor car’s fascia and instrument panel area, requiring over 200 hours of work. By N. Ahmet

Moralmoda.com

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laire Choisne has intensively studied the historical Maison's archives, on the occasion of her ten-year anniversary as Creative Director for Boucheron, reinterpreting the original 1928 jewels into new ones with a more contemporary allure and aesthetics. The large flat collar of the Maharajah has been reduced in scale, split into two separate sections, obtaining a pair of splendid diamond and cabochon emerald half-moon shaped créole earrings, elegantly contemporary yet maintaining its sophisticated Indian mood.

Haute Joaillerie Spring-Summer 2022

I ndian Splendor Text by Adriano Davoli

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the time, and, above all, for another of his immoderate passions: the one for the endless collection of gems and ancestral Indian jewellery he owned, often worn on official occasions at court and, with immense panache and splendour, during the Dehli Durbar of 1911 in front of King George V and Queen Mary, proclaimed on the occasion as the new Emperors of India. A gemstone collection that Louis Boucheron, son of the Maison’s founder, Frédéric, had never seen before, both in terms of quantity and quality: 7570 diamonds, 1430 emeralds, along with a large number of rubies and pearls. The flamboyant Maharajah decided to entrust six metal safety trunks full of the above gems to Boucheron, to set them on the more trendy, almost invisible and super light platinum, a metal that became de riguer since its use, at the very end of the nineteenth century, by the most important Parisian jewellers.

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oucheron reworks its historical archives to create a new High Jewellery Collection inspired by the legendary gems of the Maharajah of Patiala.

Paris, August 2nd, 1928.

Sir Bhupinder Singh, the immensely wealthy, imposing and fascinating Maharajah of Patiala has booked for him and its retinue of forty guards and servants thirty-five suites at the Hotel Ritz, on the elegant Place Vendôme.

The Prince was famous as a keen polo and cricket player, with a penchant for a life of unparalleled luxury, based on Rolls-Royce cars, a private plane, a very unique boy's toy at

3 At today, this is the biggest and most important private grand order ever received by the Maison from a single client: a total of 149 sets of jewels that took ten years to be completed, before Buphinder Singh passed away in 1938.

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Boucheron reworks its historical archives to create a new High Jewellery Collection inspired by the legendary gems of the Maharajah of Patiala

T

he incredible scene witnessed by Ritz employees at the time, astounded by the Maharajah's servants crossing in line the Place Vendôme, carrying his entire treasure in the direction of the jewellery Maison's headquarters, just opposite on the other corner of the square, remains vivid in the annals. It is with this fabulous fairytale vision and anecdote in mind that Claire Choisne, Creative Director of Boucheron since 2012, has attentively examined with passion and undoubted amazement the Maison’s secret archives, with thousands of preparatory sketches submitted to the Patiala prince in that fabulous 1928, to get now inspired for its most recent High Jewellery Collection.

Recently unveiled in Paris during Haute Couture Week, “New Maharajahs - Histoire de Style” is the evocative name she has chosen to present her new creations, fourteen new pieces divided into five different sets.

As the Patiala historic jewels were conceived for a man almost two meters tall, imposing and often overwhelmed with gems, she has decided to recreate the same sensational effect of those jewels, yet 5 on a lower scale. She has also privileged a more monochromatic palette of precious stones: diamonds, touches of green thanks to a selection of superb Colombian emeralds, rock crystal to obtain luminous liquid-like effects, mother-of-pearls and, of course, pearls, to better adapt the Collection to a more contemporary context, colou Moralmoda Magazine Haute Joaillerie | 36

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colour scheme and mood. Both the transparent and frosted rock crystal, a material often favoured by Boucheron, has also been used following the glyptic ancient oriental technique of engraving gems, in association with diamonds or with the iridescent mother-of-pearl.

The large ceremonial collars of the Maharajah originally conceived to adorn a so imposing man, have been updated by Choisne into more gentle and elegant sets now, still maintaining their Indian flair, for both ladies or for very sophisticated men, dedicated to today’s new Maharanis and Maharajahs, hence the name chosen for the collection.

One of the most important pieces is the “Maharajah Necklace”, designed as a perfect circular line of modular elements all paved in diamonds, with a central section of baguette-cut emeralds that add movement to its sparkling circumference.

All around it, instead of the emeralds originally present on the 1928 necklace, a sequence of diaphanous cabochon rock crystal drops are cleverly backed with micro pavé diamonds, conferring on the piece a very light and subdued scintillating allure. The centre of the necklace features an important motif en cascade mounted with octagonal step-cut Colombian emeralds of the best velvety green and with emerald boules of the same origin (6). The lower section of this dangling element, perfectly detachable to be worn as a superb clip, is also fringed by large transparent rock crystal drops decreasing in size, again backed with diamonds (3).

6 Perfectly wearable by contemporary men in accordance to their attitudes, strong personalities and latest trends, the detachable motif suggests a cravate or a modern jabot, ultrachic and very glamorous. We must in fact remember that in princely India, the most stunning jewels were worn mainly by men rather than by women, to outline their royal status, immense power over their dominions and as a statement of their once immense wealth.

Another emeralds and diamond ceremonial necklace, originally worn by Bhupinder Singh of Patiala, in the new creative process made by Claire Choisne has been reduced in size and split in two, to create an impressive pair of half-moon shaped créole earrings, with a diamond lattice in its inner section and zig-zagging emerald drops in the outer one, with the green gems gently caressing the face. Very modern in scale, they are truly sensational (1).

“The Lotus Necklace”, all in diamonds and detailed with rock crystal drops, is shaped like a splendid lace characterized by this typical oriental flower motif: it can be worn as a very slender choker or as a wider collar, both ways are extremely elegant, so very perfect to enhance the neckline of the new princesses of today. A pair of pendant earrings complete this set. Once paired, they form a lotus flower in full bloom, with important marquise-cut diamonds next to the lobes, mimicking the pistils (7).

The Maison has also re-edited the superb sarpech, the typical Indian jewel that decorate the frontal part of the turbans, as created in 1906 for Jaghatjit Singh, the statuesque and magnificent Maharajah of Kapurthala, another great Boucheron client and good friend of Bhupinder Singh. The slender shape of the brooch is completely paved with diamonds of various cuts and recalls the sinuous tail feathers of the lyre bird, as softly moved by a gentle wind. The new contemporary version, if worn on the hair as a large comb or on the peak lapels of a dressy men’s dinner jacket, expertly offers a new way of sporting it (4).

A further selection of long sautoirs and swag necklaces, some with the traditional Indian silk cord on the back, now rendered with a white gold rope, allows the piece to be better adjusted in length. Between-the-finger rings, earrings and bangle bracelets in diamonds, pearls and rock crystal complete the Collection.

Certainly a very dreamy one that, thanks to the great creativity and unique savoir-faire of Boucheron and its skilled workshops, help us to travel back to the most legendary periods of fairytale India, daydreaming of oriental princes and princesses, of mysterious hidden treasures of gems and jewels, now expertly redesigned in accordance with the Maison’s new mood and contemporary aesthetics.

They are all fantastic and very stylish, absolutely superb.

Adriano Davoli

7

Moralmoda.com

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VALENTINO NATOMY OF COUTURE Haute Couture show by Pierpaolo Piccioli for Maison Valentino questions the feminine figure as a socio-anthropological construct.

Appreciating how the latter is more fluid, Piccioli adapts new cuts, savoirfaire, and mixes of materials to cut to the bone (no pun intended) and present a silhouette as unbiased as possible.

Held at Valentino’s gilded salons on the Place Vendôme, the intimacy of the show (in contrast to past couture shows staged in Venice) allows guests to appreciate its message and silhouettes, which are made possible by the Haute Couture ateliers, where everything is unique and finely tailored to fit each individual.

Acknowledging that there is no "one size fits all" ideal of beauty, silhouette, or age, while remaining faithful to the Maison's aesthetics, (continued on page 40)

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ANATOMY OF COUTURE Spring/ Summer Haute Couture show by Pierpaolo Piccioli for Maison Valentino questions the feminine figure as a socio-anthropological construct.

Appreciating how the latter is more fluid, Piccioli adapts new cuts, savoirfaire, and mix of materials to cut to the bone (no pun intended) by presenting a silhouette as unbiased as possible.

Credit: courtesy of Valentino

Moralmoda Magazine Haute Couture | 39

VALENTINO Piccioli takes Valentino couture one step further and proposes a variety of looks that are not constrained by old social notions about women.

His new silhouette is a tribute to feminine anatomy in all of its forms and variations. And the atelier brilliantly brings his vision to life in a variety of individually fitting styles, such as Lara Stone's sequin tiny dress under an oversized white embellished jacket, revealing her black stockings, and Kristen McMenamy's plunging black dress,

which she wore to begin the show. Marie Sophie Wilson, who is still modeling in her 70s, wore a blousy couture Tshirt in wool crepe over a glittery fishtail skirt to underline the show's message. Piccioli's candid portrayal of woman necessitates a reassessment of the status quo of beauty ideals and underlines how the body is the starting and ending point of the whole process. By N. Ahmet

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ANATOMY OF COUTURE Spring/ Summer Haute Couture show by Pierpaolo Piccioli for Maison Valentino questions the feminine figure as a socio-anthropological construct.

Appreciating how the latter is more fluid, Piccioli adapts new cuts, savoirfaire, and mix of materials to cut to the bone (no pun intended) by presenting a silhouette as unbiased as possible.

Credit: courtesy of Valentino

Moralmoda Magazine Haute Couture | 41

Stéphane Rolland

V

oluptuousness is in season for this new summer collection, Stéphane Rolland masters voluptuousness throughs exquisite Haute Couture show that plays with black and white contrasts, shadow and shimmering fabrics.

Inspired by the he young ItalianSpanish painter Viani and his abstract expressionism the collection evolves from "rich minimalism", embodied in airy tunics and kaftans, to fine tailoring Sleeves caress the floor, immense draped hoods and head veils add some mystery, some protection. As airy as impressive, chiffons glide and move on draped toga dresses.

Metallic weaves lighten long sea jackets. Trousers and extra-large jumpsuits sculpted in white wool gazar define a new balance above highe hells with thick sole and pointy toe. Couture is the embodiment of a movement revealing a thought, Stéphane Rolland unveils the feminine beauty in a very sensual way and plays with oversize shape and fabric texture and cuts to deconstruct the extensions of the body as he seeks to express a new balance, full of reminiscence.

He remodels and outsizes. Yes, the movement reveals who we are. Curves are added to the embroideries or leather coated jewelries, made from gigantic stones; as precious as emeralds, aquamarines, topazes and citrines in crystal blown and chiseled by Théophile Caille, the French flame glassmaker.

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ANATOMY OF COUTURE Spring/ Summer Haute Couture show by Pierpaolo Piccioli for Maison Valentino questions the feminine figure as a socio-anthropological construct.

Appreciating how the latter is more fluid, Piccioli adapts new cuts, savoirfaire, and mix of materials to cut to the bone (no pun intended) by presenting a silhouette as unbiased as possible.

Moralmoda Magazine Haute Couture | 45

Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2022

Zuhair Murad "VERS LES JOYAUX DU TEMPS"

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urad proposes long dresses made for next summer's yacht parties and short cocktail dresses adorned with fine chains and exquisite pendants for Murad's conquers, as he dresses new explorers inspired by courage to discover the joyful future and almost pirate-like bravery and thrill for a quest.

The hat style became a signature look at the royal court of King Louis XIV, who made it fashionable throughout Europe, both as civilian and military dress. Tricorn hats, now playfully combined with pleated organza couture looks, give the wearer a sense of regality and majesty, sending her to a world of secret hidden islands and restoring the opulence of the high seas era.

As one of the few couture maisons to unveil a live couture show, Murad's extravagant vision of maritime explorers and skilled navigators is brought to life with numerous style accessories associated with the period. And Murad tops the modern piratesse evening and cocktail looks with matching monochromatic tricorn hats. The famous tricorne arose from the evolution of the broad-brimmed round hat worn by Spanish soldiers in the 17th century.

Murad combines all this in a collection featuring a bouquet of pleated organza shirts with balloon sleeves, brocade waistcoats, midi skirts in sunray-pleated lamé fabric, cascades of tulle enveloping shorts, long dresses in silk chiffon, jumpsuits, and fitted jackets in crepe cady, as well as jewels incorporated into the textiles.

As the show progresses,in the elated interior of the Westin Paris, the very selected invited guests for this intime show are overwhelmed by sensual pirates bedecked with ornate jewels, emerging from a spectacular wreck to set off once more to conquer uncharted lands.

The collection silhouettes were perfectly fitted to a seemingly longer-legged cast than what you normally see on a Zuhair Murad couture catwalk—that was enhanced by asymetric dresses, often with a dramatic thigh-high slit, as in looks like draped bourgundy red and a strapless black velvet gown, with sculptural neckline ruffles, a bustle, two diamond clips, and a wraparound belt around an asymmetrical bodice.

His signature asymetric lines and Hellenistic drapery morphed into shapes that were more dynamic, more 21stcentury, and more glamorous.

The floor-length dresses are so long and light that they touch the front row seated as they fly in the air after the model, and it is possible to admire up-close silver embroidery on their outfits that is darkened on purpose, in striking contrast to the tangles of gold chains and pearls slung from the models' slender waists.

In an all-encompassing palette dominated by the aged pink of maritime dawns. Front-row seated guests included Heart Evangelista, who admired Murad's couture up-close with the pallid red of canopies faded by sun and salt, the sand of beaches and deserts, and the rust of oxidized metals, along with traces of the blue or green of the water when it reflects the sky, brocades and embroideries bring back to life the flamboyance attenuated by the passage of time.

See more on Zuhairmurad.com.

Moralmoda Magazine Haute Couture | 47

Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2022

Alexis Mabille

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lexis Mabille's Spring/Summer Haute Couture show that was unveiled during his scheduled sow at the official Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week with fresh and sophisticated looks.

Courtesy of Alexis Mabille.

Alexis Mabille's line is elongated almost divine and often Greek inspired incorporation of timeless woman who choses elegance of comfortable dressing with sense for carnal Couture.

Haute couture is many things today. Back in the 90s, couturiers would compete to present the most elegant suit pieces and ballgowns that would fit into their clients' and the French Chambre syndicale de la haute couture's requirements, however which are today vastly different.

Mabille, however, insists on keeping up the standard with every collection and look. As usual, the designer proposes lines that he describes as inherently feminine, timeless, and trend-proof as ancient Greek architecture, which finds its way into column-like pleated dresses and brightly colored couture.

The spring couture collection is strikingly free from embroidery, yet it blends delicate materials, embroidery and finishes like on backless dress in duchess satin adorned with 45 bowties that took 300 hours to make.

Mabille's couture is known for its lightness, but the woman who wears it exudes strength. His couture is admired by American artists and Gulf buyers alike, and his woman is undeniably modern and self-assured. Her way of dressing is seemingly poetic and nostalgic, yet uncompromisingly powerful with an eternal elegance and allure.

Moralmoda.com

Image courtesy of Georges Hobeika

Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2022

Georges Hobeika

More than flawless craftsmanship and luxury materials mixed in an iconic design define haute couture. For those fortunate enough to afford it, haute couture is as significant for the emotion and feeling you experience from wearing a haute couture piece. It's a one-of-a-kind and unique experience, as well as a difficult endeavor for any designer to master. Hobeika celebrates in its new spring-summer 2022 couture collection the delicious feeling of euphoria and the wonderful impression of invincibility produced by the first kiss.

An unforgettable moment of tenderness, emotions and the sensation of butterflies in your stomach is translated into couture creations for evening and daywear.

Victor

& Rolf

Viktor&Rolf's Haute Couture SpringSummer 2022, showcases spectacular beauty, utilizing their work to transform the notion of fear—which the present currently offes—into something positive.

The notion of fear made fashion artists Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren think of the glamorous allure of old Hollywood Dracula movies, where dramatic effects of light and shadow transform reality and create a feeling of alienation and suspense. Dracula symbolised a fear of societal change, one that is prevalent again in today's world. The duo emphasizes the modern era's ambiguity with colour blocking and use of ambiguous colours like purple in several looks and gowns. Their approach, as always is underpinned by a strong sense of humor and parody in execution.But once the overdramatized shoulders are flatened, the collection reveals exquisite monochrome summer dresses often in silk moire that are light and relatively easy to wear, when compared to some previous creations from the creative duo.

CORNFLOWER BLUE SILK MOIRE IS CRAFTED INTO A SLEEVELESS, EXAGGERATED SHOULDERLINE DRESS THAT IS ENCIRCLED BY A WHITE SILK MOIRE WAISTBAND BOW, CREATING AN ELONGATED HOURGLASS SILHOUETTE. THE DRESS FEATURES RUFFLE DETAILING AROUND THE SHOULDERS AND NECK AND AN UNDULATED RUFFLE VOLANT UNFOLDING BELOW THE WAISTLINE .

CHALK WHITE FAILLE IS PLEATED INTO A BODICE WITH RUFFLE SLEEVES AND A SIGNATURE VIKTOR&ROLF WAIST BOW AND PAIRED WITH A LOW-RISING MULTILAYERED TULLE SKIRT.

Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2022

H HA AU UT TE E M ME ET TA A --

VERSE "LUCID ALGORITHMS" Rami Kadi’s Collection Couture Spring Summer 2022, disrupts the boundaries between the physical and the digital. On the following pages British actress Amy Jackson, models Sofia Resing, Alexandra Ola and Olivia Arben are wearing Rami Kadi for the collection shooting in Paris.

Rami Kadi always keen on adapting new technologies to convey the couture to clients has been pioneering several innovations, like being the first designer to introduce a cyber fashion show before COVID-19. With his new collection, Rami Kadi invites us all further into a world of codes, NFT, and metaverse.

In what just might be the first-ever human-computer couture collaboration of this scale, Rami Kadi has created the elements which would come to designate the base of his new theme. He then fed those elements into an algorithm, in an attempt to understand how the artificial mind comprehends our beauty. The result was an array of new and unprecedented visuals that combine the creativity and perception of both humankind and machinery.

Rami Kadi reinterpreted those visuals to design all but one of the Collection Couture Spring Summer 2022. As for that final dress, Rami Kadi used one of the visuals, as is and unchanged in a clear nod to the capabilities of artificial intelligence. What resulted was an astonishing window into a whole new genre of design, where colors open up new bridges between seasons, universes, and realities, and amplify the singularity of "savoir faire."

“To me, the discussion is not about whether we see this change as something positive or negative. To me, it is inevitable. It is a change that has already started to happen and just as I seek beauty in everything around me, I also see beauty in algorithms.”

For the first time in Dubai, Lebanese-American fashion designer Rami Kadi launched his first NFT collection, entitled Lucid Algorithms, on the Cardanoblockchain, in what represents the first ever human-computer couture collaboration of this scale. Kadi’s NFT collection launch event took place on February 2nd at the Theatre of Digital Art in Dubai, UAE.

Yesmin Ben Hammouda

Victoria Lopyreva

The event encapsulated the portrayal of the 120 NFTs that Rami Kadi created, after feeding Rami Kadi Isabel Jiménez Diala Makki Hala Reda the Algorithm with Kadi’s patterns, designs, and colours.

The event ambiance came to represent an out-of-this-world experience; on every wall of the theatre had a continuous stream of Rami Kadi NFT patterns that transitions along all parts of the venue. With the reflections of the digital art on the screens, a feeling of virtual inclusion was created by delving into the patterns of Lucid Algorithms,NFTs reflections that designated a space theme that signifies the trespassing of physical boundaries into the metaverse, 30 Rami Kadi dresses were on display for guests to re-examine the reinterpretation of Lucid Algorithms NFTs into physical couture pieces. One of the dresses on display represented the replication of one of Kadi’s NFTs in real life, as an example for Kadi’s NFT utilities. During the start of the event, the 120 Rami Kadi NFTs were officially launched for sale on the official website, Rami-kadi.com.

LOUIS VUITON SOIREE IN DUBAI

After Louis Vuitton's launched an immersive See LV exhibit in Dubai, in February, the Luxury Maison celebrated with views to the iconic Burj Al Arab, with fabulous food, drinks and music at Jumeirah's.

Summersalt Beach Club.

SEPTMEBER 2015 | ISSUE 05

25

Isabel Jiménez

Basil Alhadi

The winners Leona König, © Elisabeth Lechner.

The winners at the WOTY Gala that was again live in-person event this year. © Stefan Diesner

Women of the Year award ceremony in Vienna

On International Women's Day, March 8, 2022, outstanding women were honored for their special achievements! The "Women of the Year" award took place under the motto "Strengthen Together". Ten women and one man were celebrated as having achieved remarkable success and achieving extraordinary things in the past few months.

Award gala honoured Leona König, Producer of Classical TV Show and Founder of Goldene Note music prize, Sophia Thomalla, actress, Nadja Swarovski, President of Fashion Council Germany and Chair of the Swarovski Foundation, and leading Austrian and German personalities were honored on this evening.

Heart Evangelista & Liliya Tippetts Leila Ben Khalifa by @visiulisation

Paris Fashion Week

The best sartorial looks from Paris Fashion Week Jwana Karim

_Liliya Tippetts, Rami Kadi

Couture collection launched on all official online platforms along with a private viewing during PFW in Paris, where he will bridge the gap between traditional couture and new-age technology.

25 SEPTMEBER 2015 | ISSUE 05

The world gathers again in Paris to celebrate the this Paris Fashion Week, where more designers could present collections live to larger audience. On 25 January 2022, Rami Kadi Maison de Couture launched the SS2022 “Lucid Algorithms” couture collection of 40 dresses, that were designed using the visuals he co-created with the algorithm.

Image courtesy of www.snowpolo-stmoritz.com©Michael Mettler

St. Moritz

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Snow Polo World Cup and White Turf St. Moritz 2022

ajestic mountains of Engadin in South-East Switzerland set the background to the noble polo sport as the Snow Polo World Cup St. Moritz Opens and the polo action fires up.

Unlike many other cultural events and gatherings (even the annual Economic Forum in Davos had to be postponed), the winter sports season has not been canceled, and athletes and fans are gearing up for the world's most luxurious and magnificent snow polo tournament.

Corinna Nebgen von Klitzing, the Owner and Creative Director of Deluxe Dynasty, shared her impression and why she cherishes the world-class winter destination, "It is a sunny place in the Swiss Alps with amazing hotels and Michelin starred restaurants, where amazing clients and friends meet from all over the world and anything is on top level." Nebgen von Klitzing, who is residing in Switzerland, added, "The beauty of the Engadin mountains with the frozen lake of St. Moritz are a nice complement and the Engadin people are very warm and welcoming."

Swiss precision and world-class performance This annual event is a highlight on both the St. Moritz and Swiss calendars, and it was completely sold out this year, with VIP and Chukka Club tickets all sold out and resort hotels reporting record bookings.

The event runs with Swiss precision and efficiency, with 120 horses arriving from all over Europe, securely stabled in fully heated luxury, and 2'600 spectators.

Moralmoda Magazine Elite Event | 58

114 Years of International Horse Racing on Snow gathered more than 13,000 spectators on the final Race Sunday to a magnificent show by gallopers, trotters and skijorers in the races with the highest-prize money.

First and foremost was the Spanish 14:1 outsider Furioso ridden by the Czech Vaclav Janacek, who won the LONGINES 82. Grosser Preis von St. Moritz, which had a purse of 100,000 Swiss francs. In the Grand Prix Genesis, Kiss Forever H.C. trotted to first place. The new "King of the Engadine" is Jakob "Köbi" Broger on Vienna Woods. The coveted Credit Suisse Skijoring Trophy was presented to him by surprise guest Roger Federer. By Nermin A.

Top left: Roger Federer ©Michael Mettler. Center and right: Corinna Nebgen von Klitzing.

Courtesy of Courrèges

ANATOMY OF COUTURE Spring/ Summer Haute Couture show by Pierpaolo Piccioli for Maison Valentino questions the feminine figure as a socio-anthropological construct.

Appreciating how the latter is more fluid, Piccioli adapts new cuts, savoirfaire, and mix of materials to cut to the bone (no pun intended) by presenting a silhouette as unbiased as possible.

COURRÈGES Fall-Winter 2022/23 Collection pays tribute to youth and brand’s heritage, presented during the Paris Fashion Week, the collection celebrates encounters between eras, worlds and people. It mixes brand’s code with workwear and clubwear inspirations.

This is Nicolas Di Felice’s second Fall season collection for the iconic brand. The models including Kendall Jenner looked stunning in strapless dresses. By N. Ahmet.

Moralmoda Magazine PFW | 59

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Milan Fashion Week - Autumn/Winter 2022-2023

M6 Maison Margiela’s Autumn/Winter 2022-2023 collection features footwear capsule collection in collaboration with Salomon.

The collaboration premiered on the runway on February 24, between the French outdoor apparel label synonymous with technical savoir-faire and performance quality. On the other hand MM6, is renowned for conceptual all-gender wardrobe essentials that MM6 Autumn-Winter 2022 show underlines with new capsule sneakers with a twist.

The MM6 Maison Margiela x Salomon capsule will be available in select store from October 2022. The Salomon's are paired with boxy suiting and dry wool peacoats elicit the spirit of city commuters, their FinancialDistrict-severity counterposed by campily exaggerated peak lapels. These dusky silhouettes are styled with brazen-hued Salomon's most iconic sneaker styles, here reimagined by MM6 Maison Margiela’s distinct lens.

Lug-sole trail-running shoes in flame red and powder pink echo MM6’s mainstay ‘6’ heel ankle boot, with a pronounced block heel, a high top and exposed lacing. Elsewhere, a low-top model is fitted with a fluorescent gaiter, allowing for a more conventional sneaker silhouette. By N. Ahmet. Discover all looks on Maisonmargiela.com.

Moralmoda Magazine MFW| 60

He skillfully mixes texture and cut to provide warm rays of light a filter even through the frigid color pailete when selecting materials to indicate a transition to a lighter, more vivid atmosphere.

Al Ali uses his craft to convey the beauty of this seasonal shift by capturing the essence of the morning sun. The collection's delicate yet wonderfully formed contours give it a mysterious tone. The house's sculptural and tactile tailoring is brilliantly highlighted by modern forms. Al Ali's seamless demonstrates a structural shift, shifting from moulded to fluid in one effortless design, demonstrating his technical abilities once more. Between elegant cylinder forms and voluminous multi-layer skirts, silhouettes dance.

Al Ali's savoir-faire as couturier and sensibility is felt through the incorporation of designer's signature use of delicate fabrics including muslin, tulle, satin, silk and organza.

Photo Credit: Luis Alberto Rodriguez

Copyright Rolls-Royce.

WHIMSICAL & WONDERFUL, A MOMENTUS YEAR FOR ROLLS-ROYCE BESPOKE

WRAITH IN PEBBLE PARADISO Rolls-Royce Bespoke commissions set record levels in 2021.

Rolls-Royce Motor Cars delivered the highest-ever annual sales results in the marque's 117-year history. The company delivered 5,586 motor cars to clients around the world, up 49% on the same period in 2020. This overall figure includes all-time record sales in most regions, including Greater China, the Americas and Asia-Pacific, and in multiple countries across the globe.

A Shanghai based client commissioned a unique Bespoke Wraith in Pebble Paradiso blue – her very own ‘Shanghai seaside inspired paradise’. A hand-painted coachline in a Seashell hue features a delicate orchid motif, symbolising her passion for elegance.

Inside, an artwork featuring a baby girl’s footprints is depicted on the Piano White monitor lid, a tribute to the client’s long sought-after bundle of joy. The two-tone interior features Charles Blue and Seashell in natural grain leather, Rolls-Roycemotorcars.com.

ID: P90392914 THE WRAITH KRYPTOS COLLECTION A LABYRINTH OF COMPLEX CIPHERS CO2 emission: 369-357 g/km ; Fuel consumption: 17.3-17.9 mpg / 16.3-15.8 l/100km. All images courtesy of Rolls-Roycemotorcars.com.

An interview with

Gianfranco Pizzuto Chief Executive Officer, Automobili Estrema S.R.L.S. Modena HQ - ITALY

G. P.: Our first model, dubbed "Fulminea" (which translates to "lightning fast" in Italian), is expected to be delivered to our first customers by the end of 2023.

MM: What is the first feature that distinguishes this hypercar from other electrically powered vehicles?

G. P.: Automobili Estrema (Estrema = extreme in English) wants to stand out as a new car brand for its uncompromised amazing Italian design and outstanding electric performance, the most advanced battery technology and the best power-to-weight ratio.

Gianfranco Pizzuto talks to Moralmoda ahead of the upcoming launch of exceptional Hypercar from Modena, Italy.

Pizzuto is a visionary leader who leads Automobili Estrema to give car drivers new experience in the market.

MM: What is the story behind Automobili Estrema?

Gianfranco Pizzuto: It all started with the first COVID-19 lockdown. A group of friends of mine, all engineers and designers, were sitting idle at home without doing much. I so I decided to create a WhatsApp group called "progetto Hypercar" (project Hypercar) and started to exchange thoughts about designing a full-electric Italian hypercar.

Finally, in October 2020, we decided to launch a real company, "Automobili Estrema", from what started as a game.

MM: How long did this hypercar spend in R&D? G. P.: From inception to production, it will take 36 months.

MM: What are some of the environmental considerations that you take into account at your company site?

G. P.: By the time Fulminea goes into production, our aim is to have a zero carbon footprint for the entire company. We pay a lot of attention to using, as much as possible, sustainable materials for the manufacturing of every Fulminea.

MM: How does Fulminea adhere to or embody the company’s values and founders' visions?

G. P.: We wanted Fulminea to be shaped using a completely new design language (see for example our rear lights), blending the typical DNA of Italian design that needs to be recognized as such. It also needed to be sustainable in all possible ways. This is why we opted for a zero-emission electric power train.

MM: What will the Fulminea hypercar be able to offer car enthusiasts accustomed to traditional hypercars, and how will this improve the driving experience?

G. P.: We want to offer our customers all possible levels of customization, the sky is the limit. Although we are aiming to have the best power to weight ratio of all hypercars, allowing Fulminea to be a true track beast for the maximum enjoyment of its drivers.

MM: What additional customization options are available for this vehicle?

G. P.: Our designers and engineers will work closely with every single customer to make their dreams and wishes come true. As said, the sky is the limit.

MM: Where is the production site, and how many partners are involved in the production?

G. P.: The Fulminea will be assembled in Modena at our headquarters, while our three main partners supplying all major components are located at locations within Italy.

We will produce 20 units per year (61 in total, with #61 reserved for myself since it’s "my number" being born in 1961) followed by another model that we have not disclosed yet, see also automobiliestrema.com.

MM: Who will be the future drivers of hypercars like the Fulminea?

G. P.: A new generation of wealthy, socially responsible, young and successful entrepreneurs with no interest in burning fossil fuels.

Moralmoda Magazine Issue No. 46 | 61

The 101st Edition of PITTI UOMO:

Images courtesy of Pitti Uomo

Images courtesy of Art-in-time

Stefano Ricci debuts the 50th anniversary celebrations

FERDINAND BERTHOUD Model : FB2RS2 Complications : Regulator skeleton, tourbillon, fuseeand-chain transmission, power reserve indicator Case Material : Platinum Diameter : 44mm Piece Unique between 20 calibers

At the 101st PITTI UOMO, Stefano Ricci, the international luxury fashion and lifestyle brand known for its authentic 100% Made in Italy credo, unveils a modern and refined fall-winter 2022/2023 collection.

On top of this, celebrating the city of Florence and its iconic heritage, Stefano Ricci launches a new masculine perfume.

L.U CHOPARD Model : LUC PERPETUAL T Complications : Tourbillon, Perpetual calendar, 7 days power reserve indicator. Case Material : white gold. Diameter : 43mm. Limited edition number 7/10

Art In Time Monaco

debuts in Courchevel 1850 Art In Time, the fine watchmaking gallery in MonteCarlo, launches a collaboration with Swiss watchmakers such as Ferdinand Berthoud, Bovet 1822, Chopard, H. Moser & Cie., Around Five, JohnMikael Flaux, Greubel Forsey, John-Mikael Flaux, L'Epée 1839, MB&F, Ressence Reuge, Urwerk, for an exhibition of rare timepieces in Monaco and Courchevel from the end of 2021. Discover the latest timepieces here and see more at Art-in-time.com.

®CourchevelTourisme.

STEFANO RICCI Firenze (right) is a sublime fragrance in a bottle inspired by Architectural Masterpieces in Florence, the birthplace of Renaissance architecture, StefanoRicci.com.

Muse,

the Rolls-Royce Art Programme As a biennial initiative, the Spirit of Ecstasy Challenge invites emerging design visionaries to create unique works inspired by Rolls-Royce and the Spirit of Ecstasy, the sculptural figurine that

The three finalists will be invited to unveil final works later this year before proceeding on a global tour – including to Rolls-Royce showrooms. To stay upto-date follow @rollsroycemuse.

adorns the bonnet of every Rolls-Royce motor car.

An esteemed jury of design experts will select three designers to participate in the first ever Spirit of Ecstasy Challenge. The jury members include, Anders Warming, Director of Design, Rolls-Royce Motor Cars; Yoon Ahn, Director of Jewellery at Dior Men (left) and Founder of Ambush; Tim Marlow, Chief Executive and Director at the Design Museum, London; and Sumayya Vally, Founder and Principal at Counterspace Studio, Johannesburg (right).

Moralmoda Magazine New Trend | 67

Luxury in Numers

FOUR SEASONS The strategic expansion of Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts' portfolio of hotels, resorts, and residential developments in 2022 will further consolidate the company's leadership position.

Private Retreats, the company's portfolio of luxury villa and vacation home rentals; its bespoke Private Jet experience; and the Four Seasons at Home luxury products collection are all part of the company's luxury lifestyle offering.

Despite industry-wide challenges posed by the pandemic, Four Seasons' outlook for 2022 builds on the company's recent successes, which include the opening of highly anticipated new hotels, resorts, and residences in key markets, as well as the expansion of its standalone residential collection with new properties in Los Angeles and San Francisco last year.

For more than 60 years, the strength of Four Seasons has been grounded in our unmatched commitment to service excellence. As we grow with intention, so too do the opportunities for our people, ensuring we create an environment in which they can flourish.” says John Davison, President and CEO, Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts.

Any property brand new or historic is valued by visitors due to its character which comes from the people that work behind scenes to give the guest a bespoke and seamless stay, and Davison highlights the importance of “investing in our greatest competitive advantage – our people," adding that, "the deep connection between the success of our employees and the service delivered to our guests has never been more important to Four Seasons long-term success.”

New standalone Private Residences, developments not connected to a hotel or resort, set to open in the coming years include Four Seasons Private Residences Dubai at Jumeirah – a project that fully sold out before public sales began – Four Seasons Private Residences Lake Austin and Four Seasons Private Residences Marrakech at M Avenue. Images courtesy of Four Seasons.

Supporting this growth, the company’s longstanding shareholder, an affiliate of Cascade Investment, L.L.C. (Cascade), closed this month on its acquisition of a majority stake in Four Seasons from its long-term investment partner, an affiliate of Kingdom Holding Company (KHC).

The transaction marks a pivotal point for the company, further demonstrating Cascade’s commitment to provide Four Seasons with resources to accelerate growth, support the company’s properties and owners, and expand its strategic goals. KHC retains a 23.75% stake in Four Seasons and remains strongly dedicated to the company’s considerable opportunities.

Elevating Four Seasons Global Portfolio The brand is building on the momentum of its successful 2021 openings in strategic markets, including in Napa Valley, California; New Orleans, Louisiana; and Taormina, Italy (far left).

The company continues to accelerate expansion plans worldwide with four openings planned for 2022, including exciting new developments in Tamarindo, Mexico; Fort Lauderdale, Florida; Nashville, Tennessee; and Minneapolis, Minnesota.

Four Seasons has more than 50 new projects under planning or development, including in Italy, Spain, China, Japan, Colombia, Belize and across key markets in the US, all of which will add to the company’s existing portfolio of 122 hotels and resorts and 48 residential properties in 47 countries around the world.

“Four Seasons has a strong, strategic growth trajectory – an extensive pipeline of projects that will open in key global destinations, with visionary development partners who share our commitment to excellence,” says Bart Carnahan, President, Global Business Development and Portfolio Management, Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts. The brand's residential business in particular is a key pillar in our growth plans, with a five-year pipeline of USD 7 billion in gross sales value comprising more than 30 projects worldwide, Carnahan underlines how the brand's leader position in residential offer since 1985, testifies "our deep understanding of the luxury consumer – those who want to live and experience the Four Seasons lifestyle.”

These new standalone developments join the company’s current collection in London, San Francisco and Los Angeles. Other upcoming residential developments connected to an existing or soon-to-open Four Seasons property include Fort Lauderdale, Minneapolis, Nashville, Mumbai, Cartagena and Belize.

Four Seasons' growth respects ESG priorities The brand's portfolio growth globally, takes into the consideration Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) priorities, being committed to sustainable hospitality.

To further its commitments to address waste and protect local ecosystems, the company aims to remove all singleuse plastic from the guest experience by the end of 2022.

The brand has a long history of employee care, community support and philanthropy.

Find out more at FourSeasons.com.

Moralmoda Magazine Travel | 65

Piaget Rose - An iconic collection

Piaget Rose Earrings - 18K rose gold - Set with 144 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 1.28 cts)

celebrating nature,

by Piaget Left: Piaget Rose Ring 18K rose gold - Set with 72 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.64 ct)

These new Piaget Rose creations present bouquets of roses that are brought to life with a mix of textures, diamonds, and Piaget’s extraordinary savoirfaire.

“EXTRAORDINARY ENCOUNTERS” CAMPAIGN PIAGET CELEBRATES EXTRAORDINARY WOMEN Following last year’s successful Extraordinary Women international campaign, Piaget unveils its second cohort of women who continue the celebration of what it is to be an Extraordinary Woman.

The Extraordinary Women international campaign was created in 2020 to celebrate 10 women who are exceptional in their respective fields, ranging from cinema to art, music, design, and artistry. Perceptions of femininity are constantly evolving, and these Extraordinary Women represent a new dynamic that inspires and empowers other women to have the courage to blaze their own trails.

Piaget Rose Ear Clip - 18K rose gold - Set with 12 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.17 ct)

Left to right: Wendy Yu is an award-winning Chinese investor, the Founder and CEO of Yu Holdings and is recognised internationally for her philanthropic work in the world of fashion. She is the Chinese Ambassador of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, has created a prize for emerging Chinese fashion designers.

And Momoko Ando is a Japanese film director.

All images courtesy of Piaget.

A second pair of earrings in rose gold present a different bouquet design with one large open bloom fully set with diamonds, and a second smaller bud with a diamond in the centre, totalling 134 brilliantA generous bouquet ring and cut diamonds. matching earrings are decorated with Piaget’s signature Two ear clips offer a bold and “Décor Palace” which accentu- different way to wear earrings. ates the reflection of light on They can be clipped anywhere each rose petal. Beautifully set on the ear for an elegant and diamonds and polishing bring a daring look, and they come in a further note of generosity to choice of rose or white gold and the bouquets. are set with 12 brilliant-cut Available in rose gold, the ring diamonds. and the earrings are set with Discover all the rose designs on brilliant-cut diamonds. piaget.com.

This year sees the arrival of a new group of Extraordinary Women who are featured in Piaget’s “Extraordinary Encounters” Campaign that explores the meaning of mentorship. Clémence Poésy, Wendy Yu, Balqees Fathi, Katherine Pooley, Noella Coursaris Musunka, Momoko Ando and Yeol Eum Son discuss women empowering women on YouTube and piaget.com/lp/extraordinary-women.

Katharine Pooley (right) is one of the world’s most famous interior designers. Her eponymous London-based design studio was established over 15 years ago. Katharine is also a partner of the charity Childhood Trust, offering her company’s services to redecorate the bedrooms of children living in severe poverty in London. She is also an ambassador for the women’s health charity, Lady Garden.

Right: Balqees Fathi is an Emirati singer with three record-breaking albums. She holds the title of United Nations Champion for Women’s Rights in the Middle East.

Moralmoda Magazine Fine Jewellery | 72

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Try print subscription 5 x Moralmoda printed issues with complimentary gift card WE CONVEY ARTFUL LIVING IN A SIMPLE YET POWERFUL WAY The world's first & only magazine dedicated to art and sustainable-luxury.

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“I believe that fashion in the metaverse will be as important as it is today, if not more so. Of course I look forward to designing for metaverse avatars. You cannot limit art to one certain world or one certain code of conduct. Art transcends boundaries that sometimes scare us.”

Rami Kadi, Creative Director Maison Rami Kadi and UNEP goodwill ambassador for sustainable fashion,.

Jacob & Co. Unveils 86, Rue du Rhône New Flagship Boutique

H o r l o g e r i e N e w s

Jacob & Co. unveils a new Geneva address in the city’s most historic neighborhood, at the prestigious Rue du Rhône. 86 Rue du Rhône is not only part of Geneva's most prestigious luxury shopping street, but number 86 is also a tribute to the founding year of the brand, which its founder, Mr. Arabo, established in 1986.

The city of Geneva offers an unparalleled offering of highend watchmaking brands. The new location puts Jacob & Co. in the heart of the action by being neighbors with toptier fashion and jewelry brands such as Chanel, Saint Laurent, Bucherer, Richard Mille, and Patek among the other industry giants. For watch collectors, it provides an opportunity to be immersed in the experience of design innovation, luxury watchmaking and jewelry art at their its finest.

Swiss luxury watch manufacturer laboratory marks a decade since its first MB&F M.A.D.Gallery has opened to art and watch collectors.

After three successful years at the city's most illustrious hotel, the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, the new space is reaffirming Jacob & Co.'s close connection to Swiss and international clients.

This unique concept went global, from the heart of Genev's Old Town, introducing M.A.D.Galleries in Taipei, Hong Kong, Dubai and MB&F shop-in-shop in Bangkok. The later two are the first with the new architectural identity. The other galleries and new shop-in-shops will follow suit in 2023.

Courtesy of Jacob & Co.

H a u t e

MB&F Unveils New M.A.D.GALLERY Concept Globally

The iconic 1,500 square-foot two-floor contemporary space features black and white interiors with silver highlights consistent with Jacob & Co. boutiques, including white marble floors and furnishings. Geneva store's personal Art Deco touches are designed by Jacob Arabo.

A grand ultramodern stairway leads to a more exclusive area on the second floor with a bar and private spaces for VIP clients, discover more on JacobandCo.com.

Moralmoda Magazine | 69

ART

Index of brands in this issue:

The Foundations: Fondation Cartier pour l'art contemporain International Music Foundation for Highly Gifted Children Fondazione Giorgio Cini Michaelangelo Foundation The Prince's Foundation Swarovski Foundation

Index of brands: maison-alaia.com alexismabille.com aquaflor.it blancpain.com boucheron.com

bovet.com buccellati.com bugatti.com cartier.com chaumet.com chiso.co.jp courreges.com dolcegabbana.com doshilevien.com georgeshobeika.com gubelin.com hermes.com immersion4.com jacobandco.com jaeger-lecoultre.com jumeirah.com alange-soehne.com/en lemarie-paris.com

longines.com louisvuitton.com maisonmargiela.com marlidresses.com metropole.com parmigiani.com patou.com piaget.com rami-kadi.com rolls-roycemotorcars.com serapian.com stephanerolland.com vacheron-constantin.com valentino.com viktor-rolf.com zuhairmurad.com vancleefarpels.com watchesandwonders.com Photo Credit: blancpain.com

Courtesy Issey Miyake FW 2022

Ref. no. G0A46219

Piaget.com

Photo Credit: piaget.com

Photo Credit: Louvre

Altiplano – Rose Bouquet Métiers d’Art