MORALMODA ISSUE NO. 37/ 2021 THE WORLD'S 1ST SUSTAINABLE LUXURY MAGAZINE
MAGAZINE
Exclusive cover-story:
YAVUZ YÜKSELIR UNWTO Ambassador Travel & Luxury
Istanbul Geneva, & Paris H.R.H. PRINCE JUAN BAGRATIONMUKHRANI
GEORGIA
the Land of the moment
Çırağan Palace Kempinski 30 years of superior Turkish hospitality
15 YEARS OF PASSION AND DEDICATION Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues
MORALMODA | MAGAZINE
Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie: Breguet, Louis Moinet, Jacob & Co. - LVMH Watch Week: Bulgari, Hublot, Zenith
Elegance around the clock The new Adamavi FullCalendar by Carl F. Bucherer with silver dial and stainless steel bracelet. Courtesy of Carl F. Bucherer.
www.carl-f-bucherer.com
Cover-story: Yavuz Yükselir UNWTO Ambassador
TABLE OF CONTENTS ISSUE NO. 37 Editor's Note Contributors Art & Travel Çırağan Palace Kempinski, Istanbul Four Seasons, Geneva Four Seasons Private Jet Michelin stars Jodhpur, Architecture of India By Shalini Passi The Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporain The Fondation Louis Vuitton
Interviews Cover-story featuring Mr Yavuz Yükselir Georgia – the Land of Unlimited Opportunities 14th Anniversary Global Family Office Investment Summit By Liliya Tippetts H.R.H. Ioane Bagration - A prince for Georgia's future By Carlos Mundy Eddie Le Vian, CEO Le Vian Bernardo, CEO Bereve Timepieces Salmeen Al Ameri, CEO Al Dahra
8 10 12 42 42 42 44 62 62
14 23 27 28 39 70 74
SPECIAL THANKS TO OUR VALUED PRESS PARTNERS: ABU DHABI MAGAZINE, ARTELIA CONSULTANCY MONACO, BERIN ART MANAGEMENT - BERIN IGLESIAS ART, BUTTERFLY BALL MONACO, CAUDWELL CHILDREN, COYA GSTAAD & MONACO, ELITE CLUB INTERNATIONAL, GREEN COFFEE MONACO, GROVE REAL ESTATE, IMPERIAL COSMETICS, INTERNATIONAL FOUNDATION FOR HIGHLY GIFTED CHILDREN, JACOB&CO., MANERA YACHTS MONACO, MASH, PIAGET, PIRANESI FINE JEWELLERY, POLO BEAUTY GROUP, SIR RITOSSA GLOBAL FAMILY OFFICE INVESTMENT SUMMITS, ULTIMA GSTAAD, WPC.CO LTD, YALIHAN INTERNATIONAL.
ISSUE NO. 37
Art & Travel The world's 1st sustainable island: Greece
30
Prada Cup The Saudi Cup UNESCO & World Marine Heritage H.S.H. Prince ALbert II of Monaco Galerie Chantal Crousel Paris
67 69 70 72 72
By Ulrike E. Schlenter
BRANDS Breguet Greubel Forsey Boucheron Carl F. Bucherer Chanel By Raquel-Elena Hernández Díaz Louis Vuitton Spring- Summer '21 Ulyana Sergeenko Couture Ralph & Russo ELIO BERHANYER By Francisco José Pavón Chisbert The princely state of Patiala By Renu Choudhary “Secret Egypt”, Luxury Art Book By Estelle Arielle Bouchet
BRANDS Louis Moinet Jacob & Co. LVMH Watch Week Van Cleef&Arpels MB&F Gübelin Piaget Alexis Mabille Zuhair Murad YFA Yachts
32 33 34 35 36 50 51 52 54 68
36 37 38 42 46 48 55 57 58 64 60
DEAR RESPECTED READER, Thank you for your attention to the topics highlighted in our 37th issue. It is a true honour to unveil the exclusive cover-story, featuring Mr Yavuz Yükselir, Chairman of the Board of Directors of the Yükselir Group and the UNWTO's latest Ambassador. Once again we are honoured to present new article featuring H.R.H Prince Juan of Georgia, by Historian carlos Mundy. We invite you also to discover art and savoir-faire of fine Swiss watchmaking, artists, as well as teams of leading luxury Maisons oriented towards conscious and sustainable luxury. We are excited to introduce our new global partner, Sir Ritossa Global Family Office Investment Summits, and new partnerships in Turkey with the Future of Luxury Property Bodrum partner. We aim to highlight incredible individuals, philanthropists, artists, strong women, as well as teams of leading luxury Maisons oriented towards conscious and sustainable luxury. The issue opens with the inspiring multi page interview with r Yavuz Yükselir, who puts an emphasis on the sustainable approach in his global business. We are excited to share with the reader the values and knowledge presented in this exclusive coverstory that Mr Yavuz Yükselir agreed to participate in, right after his UNWTO diplomatic appointment in Madrid, Spain. The average luxury customer is getting more conscious and more demanding, which is clearly transforming the offer of numerous luxury brands. French luxury brand Louis Vuitton has created an odyssey to present its spring 2021 menswear collection with a renewed energy and fortified strong statements. The unprecedented year has reshuffled the status quo. The creativity is not at stake but the access to knowledge has been impacted as numerous cultural, religious and civic institutions closed down across the world. Now with the reopening of the libraries, museums and other fundamental institutions of the civilisation, we remain optimistic for the further moral development and prosperity of the society, accelerated by the strong support from individuals and philanthropists such as Yavuz Yükselir, H.R.H. Prince of Georgia, Shalini Passi, and others mentioned in this issue.
YOURS TRULY, Nermin Ahmet CEO/President
COVER IMAGE: SANDA STRUGAR. MAKE UP & HAIR: JELENA ILINČIĆ. STYLING: SARA STRUGAR. MALE MODEL: LUKA ĆOSOVIĆ. PHOTO CREDITS © NIKOLA PEJOVIĆ.
from the editor
Courtesy of Michael Cinco.
MORALMODA
MAGAZINE
EMRE ERTÜRK (VICE PRESIDENT ISTANBUL) Emre Erturk New York is an aclaimed artist who has been painting ever since he was two years old. It is no wonder how far he has come, being born into a family of creativity and entrepreneurship. His parents were at the top of their fields respectively; his father was partner of one of the largecst meat distribution companies to Turkey and his mother was in leather business making leather wear for all of Europe. He continues their legacy of excellence and love today. By the age of fourteen, Emre won several international prizes for his paintings. In 1992 he moved to London, where he studied fine arts and design at the International Schiller University and the American College of Arts. He continued his academic education in Istanbul at the Marmara University of Fine Arts. Erturk has had major art shows throughout Europe during his studies and after his graduation. He has also designed an exclusive line of handbags and tshirts under his own name for the famous fashion house Vakko Vakkorama during the period of 1994-1997. Nowadays, anyone familiar with the fashion scene in Istanbul, London and New York or simply googling ‘’ EMRÉ Erturk NewYork’’, recognizes the famous fashion designer and painter to celebrities and jet-set on two continents: Europe and North America. His celebrity list ranges from Hollywood to Aristocracy. Milla Jovovich, Teresa Heinz Kerry, Paris Hilton, Kerry Kennedy, Michelle Obama, Padma Lakshimi, Ginnifer Goodwin, Tori Spelling, Michael Bolton, Catherine Keener, Micheal Sheen, Robert De Niro, Geena Davis, Beyoncé, Marc Anthony, Carmen Electra, Britney Spears, Famke Janssen, Kevin Kline, Danny DeVito, Martin Sheen, Shaun Tobb, Joy Behar, Alec Baldwin, Kathleen Kennedy, Princess Nilufer, Princess Irine, Anne Lynne McCord, Paula Abdul, Alec Baldwin, Catherine Keener, Micheal Bolton, Jennifer Coolidge, Jennifer Lopez, Olivia Culpo, Ahmet Ertegun, Cherie Blair and Meera Gandhi are just some of the names among his celebrity clientele. Emre has had a number of media and press accolades. Most notably, he was the IT handbag designer for the 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010 Oscars. He combines his knowledge of art and design to create styles that standout. He knows how to merge the fine art of expert stitching with finished leather and fabrics to produce a versatile and functional collection. Specializing in fine leather goods and accessories, Emre's creative spirit has branched out into many areas from handbags to sunglasses. Emré New York raised the bar in fashion world with his organic sunglasses designed with the well known Italian Mazzucchelli organics. Emré New York sunglasses are skin friendly ,yet very chic. Emré Erturk NewYork is also being used as a case and as a role model at New York Parsons School of Design, by Professor Michelle Alleyne under The Ethical Fashion topics in the Manufacturing Classes. Emré Erturk NewYork, also designed a line of natural skin care, dedicated to his Mother SerpilDonna Güzey who has lost her life from the skin cancer, Melanom just two years ago.Emre Erturk is celebrating his 25th year, in Fine Arts with solo Arts shows to honor his art collectors. www.emrenewyork.com
Monaco based entrepreneur earned her BA in International Finance and Accounting and MA in International Business Management. Liliya splits her time between Monte-Carlo and London where she worked for six years at a London family office, managing various investment projects before setting up her ArteLia (Monaco | London) company that provides clients with art advisory, media communication for brands and business advisory. Liliya established ArteLia Gallery (London and Monaco) in 2008, focusing primarily on Eastern European nonconformist art, but after graduating with Diploma in Modern and Contemporary Art and Art Business at Christie’s Education in London, she expanded her art advisory into modern, post-war, and contemporary art. In 2018, Liliya was appointed as the CEO of Luxury International Magazine for Monaco and Cote d’Azur regions. In 2020, Liliya shifted her expertise to expand ArteLia Consultancy into a fully independent operation: • Art Advisory offers private consultation for collectors of modern, post-war, or contemporary art. • Media Services • Capital Raising Business Advisory for investment funds and individual projects • Premium Property Investments in Monaco, Cote d'Azur, premium European ski resorts • Luxury Lifestyle Management Services for individual clients.
www.ArteLia-Consultancy.com
LILIYA TIPPETTS (VICE PRESIDENT MONACO)
ESTELLE ARIELLE BOUCHET (FRANCE) Estelle is an international journalist specialized in Art, Costume and Fashion, thus she collaborates with editorial groups as Conde Nast supervising the entire reportage, photos, style and text: Vogue, AD, GQ, World of Interiors. Besides Moralmoda Magazine, she contributes to www.theluxurychronicle.com, and was in charge of Fashion for L'Orient le Jour, she wrote for Qatar Airways magazine Oryx, and MarieClaire Italia. Based in Provence, where she managed the Press department of Fondation Calvet, in Avignon which gathers the most important museums of Avignon and Cavaillon. She recently created the Association and publishing house "Méditerranée en Lumière" whose mission is to protect the Peoples, Cultures and the Sea of the Mare Nostrum. Méditerranée en Lumière will publish “Secret Egypt” art book in 2021. Estelle is also the author of two Carnets de Voyage at Flammarion “Mes Carnets d’Egypte" and “Mes Carnets d’Italie”. Estelle is asked to consulting as writer and art director for brands as Acqua di Parma, Hermès Cuirs Précieux, Mini-stère de la Culture & de la Communica-tion, Montblanc, Region Provence Alpes Côte d'Azur, Group Hotels Tournier Courchevel, Van Cleef & Arpels and wines Chateauneuf du Pape. She owns the press office EAB Press & Image and manages international press campaign, branding and identity, monitoring budgets, and international management. Recently as Art Director for KLEIN KAROO INT. (the South African partner of HERMES). www.mediterranee-en-lumiere.com
MORALMODA MAGAZINE is the world’s first & only publication dedicated to art and sustainable luxury. Exclusive insight with interviews and luxury news from world's top luxury destinations, thanks to teams in Monaco, Geneva, Madrid, Dubai, Istanbul, London and Paris. Copyright 2021.
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NERMIN AHMET, CEO & FOUNDER, LILIYA TIPPETTS, VICE PRESIDENT - MONACO | E-MAIL: LILIYA@ARTELIA.CO.UK EMRE ERTURK, VICE PRESIDENT - ISTANBUL JOSIP GRABOVAC, FASHION EDITOR ITALY, ESTELLE ARIELLE BOUCHET, LIFESTYLE EDITOR, PHAM N. DIEP, DESIGN DIRECTOR, MIHANE SADIKU, VICE PRESIDENT BODRUM, RENU CHOUDHARY, FINE JEWELLERY, SHALINI PASSI, ART & DESIGN CONTRIBUTOR, POUL-ERIK LIMQUIST, DEPUTY EDITOR, PER NIELSEN, CONTENT STRATEGIST, ANWAAR A, PR OPERATIONS, DUBAI, UAE, MARWAN HAFFAR,RESEARCH EDITOR, TOVE MCCNEY, DIGITAL PUBLISHING
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Renowned Contributors Renu Choudhary is a Mumbai based 4th generation Diamonds & Jewellery enthusiast, who is strongly influenced by her ancestral city, Jaipur’s rich heritage of exceptional gems and exquisite craftsmanship. After persuading a Diamond Graduate Program from GIA (New York), Renu has worked with leading diamond manufacturing companies in India such as RAQUEL-ELENA HERNÁNDEZ DÍAZ Rosy Blue (India) Pvt. Ltd and Hari Krishna (SPAIN & TURKEY) Exports Pvt Ltd. Raquel-Elena was born in Madrid (Spain), but With the idea to promote the Gem and Jewelry has North American ancestry. She completed Industry on a digital platform, Renu started her her primary and secondary education in blog “The Diamond Talk”; and over 2.5 years, boarding schools in United Kingdom, United Renu has achieved remarkable success in her States and Germany. Having a Masters Degree journey: in Advertising and Public Relations, she also She was a Panellist at the Global Trends has university studies in Journalism and discussion talk at NYC Jewelry week 2020, a Economics and a Masters degree from Harvard jury member of the Social Symphony Awards in World Literature. Sept 2020 as well as for Jewellery Eminence She began her journalism and TV career in the Awards, March 2020. She covered Jaipur popular show "Supermodelo 2007" (Spain's Jewellery Show, the biggest B2C Gems and Next Top Model), originally created by Jewelry Show and the second biggest B2C show American Supermodel Tyra Banks. Hereafter, on her digital channels. she hosted a popular TV Show in the De Beers Group of Company invited Renu, to nationwide channel “Cuatro TV”, specializing in attend De Beers Diamond Week in Botswana media and lifestyle. Díaz published 2019 and a visit to De Beers Damtshaa and autobiography “Raquel, Supermodelo por Orapa diamond mines. She also had the dentro” (Raquel, supermodel inside), sold on opportunity to witness Christie’s Maharajas and Amazon.com and major bookstores, and Mughal Magnificence Jewels auction in June launched her successful T-Shirt line and thus 2019, New York. appeared in some of the most prestigious Renu has attended the Forevermark India magazines: Vogue, Glamour, Vanity, El País... Forum Bangalore in July 2019 and multiple In 2010, she became the Director of international Jewellery trade shows such as JCK International Relations for "The Diplomatic Las Vegas, Couture Show and HongKong 2018 World" an organization, subscribed by 68 September Show. ambassadors and chaired by Her Majesty, Doña In the current time of “New Normal” which is Sofía de Grecia, Queen of Spain. about going Digital, Renu is curating a series of In 2011, she moved to the Gulf and worked as a informative and educational Instagram LIVE journalist specialized in economics, finance and CHAT with jewellery brands, museum, foreign policy for the Financial Times Germany, connoisseurs. She strongly believes in creating having interviewed several members of the educative and informative blogs and content royal family, ministers, governors, CEOs and for her global digital family! most decision makers in the State of Qatar. At that time, she also wrote extensively about the Gulf for different Spanish publications. After returning to Spain she co-organized the Spanish-Russian political forums, in Munich, Prague and Madrid, where relevant figures, such as the ex-president of Spain and the vicepresident of Russia, attended as ponents. She has always loved and been very passionate about women's right and empowerment.
RENU CHOUDHARY (AMBASSADOR, MUMBAI)
SHALINI PASSI (INDIA) Founder, Shalini Passi Art Foundation & MASH (My Art Shalini), as well as MASH Magazine launched in 2020. Shalini is a recipient of The 21st Century Icon Award Combining her great love and dedication to arts and philanthropy, Shalini Passi is Delhi based artist and Arts Patron, who sits on the Advisory Board of KHOJ (the not-for-profit contemporary arts organisation based in Delhi), is a Patron of FICA (Foundation of Indian Contemporary Art), and is also an important Patron of the Kochi-Muziris Biennale. Having been actively involved in designing her home, Shalini has amassed a formidable collection of the most coveted names of Indian contemporary art, including Bharti Kher, Anita Dube, Sheba Chhachhi, Zarina Hashmi, Subodh Gupta, Atul Dodiya, and Riyas Komu, alongside significant international artists such as Jeff Koons and Damien Hirst. Shalini’s passion for art and design is evident in her vast collection of furniture, tapestries, and rare antiques, which are juxtaposed with cutting-edge contemporary design, including important pieces by Ron Arad, Vladimir Kagan, and Herve Van Der Straeten. Located within Shalini’s Delhi home, (as featured in renowned international publications), the collection evokes and celebrates a powerful individual narrative that speaks of Shalini’s connection with each piece, each history, and each artist. As a patron and collector, Shalini actively supports emerging artists, and fosters arts education through the Foundation’s yearround programming. She is regularly invited to speak prominent international art and design events, like India Art Fair and she has recently moderated a panel discussion at India Design ID 2019. www.mashindia.com
www.ShaliniPassiArtFoundation.com
Image: Mr Ralph Radtke, Courtesy Kempinski.
“It is a great honour for us to have kept this legend alive together with all our team for precisely 30 years. We would like to express our gratitude to all our valued guests and business partners for their trust and loyalty. In addition to inspiring the travel and hospitality industry, we hope that we will be able to celebrate these important historical dates together enthusiastically in healthier days. We will continue to curate special experiences for our 30th anniversary throughout the year.” - Ralph Radtke, Çırağan Palace Kempinski Istanbul General Manager and Regional Director of Kempinski Residences in Turkey.
"Life should be lived with style"
Çırağan Palace Kempinski marks 30 years of superior Turkish hospitality
Moralmoda Magazine | Travel 12
"Life should be lived with style"
Çırağan Palace Kempinski marks 30 years of superior Turkish hospitality
Istanbul unites Asia and Europe, literally, as it links the two continents. The city was the imperial capital of three empires. Its location and rich cultural heritage means that Istanbul is something more than a city, it is a destination. The unique blend of European and Asian aesthetics and shared history is omnipresent in its culture, people, but even in the magnificent architecture. Palaces, ancient churches like Hagia Sofia, minarets and skyscrapers crown its skyline, which follows the magical Bosporus, as the locals describe it. Formerly a waled-up Byzantine city, Istanbul became an open harbour city in the heart of themOttoman empire. From the mid-1850s sultans built their own palaces instead of using those of their ancestors. This period produced opulent palaces that are aligned like pearls around the strait. Çıragan Palace is the last example of this tradition. Its immediate exposure to the seaside, has benefit of cool air during hot Turkish summers. Since 30 years Çıragan Palace Kempinski has been transformed into luxurious resort, featuring all the luxury that a guest might expect at an Ottoman palace.
The Palace to Stay The former 19th century Ottoman palace, belonged to Sultan Abdülâziz, who enjoyed travelling in Europe and composing music. Its travel spirit and superior Turkish hospitality are today revived by Europe’s oldest luxury hotel group founded by Berthold Kempinski - the Kempinski Hotels.
As Çıragan Palace Kempinski marks its 30th anniversary with a unique resort ambiance, it retains the superior hospitality and luxury of a genuine Ottoman Palace. Besides the lavish interior decor in the Second Empire style, with ornamentation and chrystals used for staircases and chandeliers, it offers big, extravagant palm tree garden with heated outdoor pool. Its original construction took four years, and additional five years were spent on interior finishes, featuring gold, Bohemian and Baccarat crystal, and stones such as Marmara marble and Egyptian alabaster. Since 1897 the Kempinski creates lasting memories, and at Çıragan Palace the brand revives palatial grandeur and pays homage to Turkish design and hospitality tradition. The overall splendor of this palace is juxtaposed by older palaces built across the Bosporus in the same Second Empire style, such as the Dolmabahçe palace. For hotel’s 30th anniversary throughout the year guests can book '30 Years Berthold Package' and '30 Years of Appreciation'. Discover more on www.kempinski.com/istanbul “It is a great honour for us to have kept this legend alive together with all our team for precisely 30 years. We would like to express our gratitude to all our valued guests and business partners for their trust and loyalty. In addition to inspiring the travel and hospitality industry, we hope that we will be able to celebrate these important historical dates together enthusiastically in healthier days. We will continue to curate special experiences for our 30th anniversary throughout the year.” - Ralph Radtke, Çırağan Palace Kempinski Istanbul General Manager and Regional Director of Kempinski Residences in Turkey. Moralmoda Magazine | Travel 13
In an inspiring interview with
YAVUZ YÜKSELIR
The newly appointed World Tourism Ambassador for the United Nation World Tourism Organization
Y
ükselir Group was established in Turkey in the year 2005, by the Chairman of the Board of Directors Mr. Yavuz Yükselir. The Group is active in nine different sectors in Turkey and abroad, including oil, aviation, energy, logistics, marina, infomation technologies, construction and livestock industries. The Group's international portfolio is globally diversified across more than five sectors and is currently employing 45,000 employees in more than 20
countries. Yavuz Yükselir was newly appointed as the Special Ambassador by the United Nation World Tourism Organization, while he continues his leadership as the President of the Group that is widely renowned as a reliable and one of the most reputable groups in his country. Outside Turkey, the Group is active in top economies of Europe, including Austria, Belarus, Canada, Czech Republic, Denmark, England, France, Germany, Greece, Iran, Iraq, Italy, Libya, the Netherlands, Russia, Singapore, Spain, Switzerland, Ukraine, the US and more.
Moralmoda Magazine | Cover-story 14
exclusive COVER story featuring:
Mr Yavuz Yükselir, President of Yükselir Group, and the newly appointed Special Ambassador for the United Nation World Tourism Organization
All images courtesy of Yavuz Yükselir. Image above: Yavuz Yükselir, in Geneva, Switzerland in front of the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues Geneva.
MM: Yavuz Yükselir Bey, thank you to take your time to share your views and insight in the following interview. As the Chairman of Yükselir Group, you are responsible for many projects in 24 countries on 4 continents. In addition to Turkey; you consider Dusseldorf, Geneva, Madrid and Moscow as your second home. How often do you stay in these cities each year and what makes these destinations important to you? Yavuz Yükselir: As you mentioned, Yükselir Group is a group that operates in different countries on different continents with numerous companies within the group. We spend most of the year in important cities of the world due to our business. I spend almost half of the year in Düsseldorf, Geneva, Madrid and Moscow. Along with Istanbul, these cities are also special for me. These cities have been among the important cities of art, commerce, finance, literature and fashion both in the past and today. In addition to their richness in the past, they have a multi-cultural structure today and display very important examples in terms of the vision of the future society. I really enjoy losing myself in this cultural mess. These cities are the most significant cities of continental Europe and contain people who will shape the future of our civilization together. Being a part of this experience makes me very happy. Yükselir Group's new projects focus on renewable energy. Why do you think the renewable energy sector is so important? YY: Sustainability is one of the principles of Yükselir Group, as it is the case for the rest of the world. Our group has various plans and commitments regarding our carbon emission level and sustainability for the future. As a group that has adopted the position as a pioneer in the sectors we are in, transforming the sectors is among our goals. We are trying to make pioneering projects in the field of sustainability in the energy sector, which is in the fields of activity of our group. We have significant investment plans for the spread of renewable energy. In this framework, we feel responsible both as a company and as an individual. With the arrival of my newborn daughter to our world, I think it is the most important duty for all of us to leave a cleaner, safer and more livable world for all children in the world.
You invest heavily in renewable energy. What do you think about hydrogen? YY: Hydrogen is the subject of today and the future, especially in terms of renewable energy. Very important studies are carried out on this subject. Various countries, especially the People's Republic of China, spend billions of USD on the technology of cheapening its use as fuel. We, as Yükselir Group, follow this process closely. We work with TUBITAK (The Scientific and Technological Research Council Of Turkey) to develop and finance joint projects. Some car manufacturers have already begun to release their hydrogen fuel based products to the market. We hope that hydrogen fueled car sales will surpass current expectations in the 2030s, and we have concentrated our investments in this field. MM: As a citizen of a country with a high yearly averages for the number of sunny hours, what do you think about Turkey's solar energy? YY: Turkey is one of the luckiest countries in the field of solar energy with respect to its sunshine duration and radiation intensity. The government has been providing incentives on these issues for a long time. It also issues additional incentives for domestic production panels and other technologies. With the newly arrived YEKDEM (Renewable Energy Resources Support Mechanism), we have switched to a more dynamic pricing infrastructure. I think that the interest of domestic and foreign investors in the solar energy in Turkey will continue for a long time. Currently, there exist solar power plants with an installation capacity of over 7,000 MW. I personally expect this figure to reach 20,000 MW towards the end of the 2020s.
"Sustainability is one of the principles of Yükselir Group, ...We have significant investment plans for the spread of renewable energy. In this framework, we feel responsible both as a company and as an individual. With the arrival of my newborn daughter to our world, I think it is the most important duty for all of us to leave a cleaner, safer and more livable world to all children in the world." - Mr. Yavuz Yükselir, Chairman of the Board of Directors of Yükselir Group.
"Tourism sector, which has been heavily damaged by the global pandemic, must meet the possible crises in the future much more astutely. In this context, as in every sector, the tourism sector needs to invest in areas such as big data, artificial intelligence and protection of personal data." -
Yavuz Yükselir, in Geneva, Switzerland in front of the United Nations Office.
Mr. Yavuz Yükselir, Chairman of the Board of Directors of Yükselir Group.
Moralmoda Magazine | Cover-story 16
"We started to prioritize technology in our investments. Technology is a field that we both internalize and see as an investment tool. Besides, we have social responsibility projects in the field of arts and sports." - Mr. Yavuz Yükselir, Chairman of the Board of Directors of Yükselir Group.
Moralmoda Magazine | Exclusive cover-story 17
About UNWTO: The United Nation World Tourism Organization (UNWTO) operates as organ of the United Nations to drive wider positive change, and promote the opportunities that sustainable tourism offers for the advancement of the 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). UNWTO’s membership includes 159 Member States, 6 Associate Members and over 500 Affiliate Members representing the private sector, educational institutions, tourism associations and local tourism authorities. Mr. Zurab Pololikashvili is the Secretary-General since 1 January 2018 after being elected by the 22nd Session of UNWTO General Assembly. He was Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of Georgia to the Kingdom of Spain, the Principality of Andorra, the People’s Democratic Republic of Algeria and the Kingdom of Morocco and Permanent Representative of Georgia to the World Tourism Organization (UNWTO) up to December 2017. UNWTO members have endorsed the Management Vision of the Secretary-General which seeks to position tourism as a policy priority, lead in knowledge creation, enhance the Organization’s capacity through building new and stronger partnerships, and offer better value for existing Members while also expanding membership. At the begining of 2021, Mr Zurab Pololikashvili has appointed Mr. Yavuz Yükselir as the Special Ambassador for the United Nation World Tourism Organization. UNWTO Ambassadors have all achieved outstanding public recognition for their work and association with UNWTO and core United Nations values.
"I think that the future of the oil industry and prices will be determined by the petrochemical industry rather than transportation."
- Mr. Yavuz Yükselir, Chairman of the Board of Directors of Yükselir Group.
MM: Again, congratulations on your election as the United Nation World Tourism Organization's Special Ambassador by UNWTO Secretary General Zurab Pololikasvili. Within the framework of your new role as the Ambassador, what kind of projects do you have for Turkey and Spain?
MM: You are very successful in the oil industry. Your company supplies oil to many countries of the world. There has been a considerable amount of drop in oil prices recently. What is your opinion on oil prices and the future of the industry?
YY: We operate in different sub-sectors in the field of tourism within Yükselir Group. Digitalization had already penetrated the company's genes before the corona virus epidemic. During the epidemic, we saw how correct these investments were. Spain and Turkey are among the most important countries in the world in the field of tourism. Tourism sector, which has been heavily damaged by the global pandemic, must meet the possible crises in the future much more astutely. In this context, as in every sector, the tourism sector needs to invest in areas such as big data, artificial intelligence and protection of personal data. We will have important projects on standardization that can be established in these areas together with UNWTO. Thus, we will move closer to the goal of creating a sustainable global tourism industry.
YY: Oil was the most affected commodity in terms of its price due the supply-demand balance which deteriorated during the pandemic. Although the oil industry represents a great deal of employment, governments may have different priorities on their agenda. I believe that we would see some decrease in oil demand due to environmental impacts. Today, one out of every two new cars sold in Norway is an electric car. It is no longer a secret that the use of oil as fuel will decline. On the other hand, governments want to meet the increasing electricity demand with renewable energy. If this balance cannot be achieved, the oil industry may shift to energy production, as we have seen in Japan. Besides, I think that the future of the oil industry and prices will be determined by the petrochemical industry rather than transportation. MM: Science, Art and Olympic sports are important parts of our lives. Which of these categories do you highlight through your work and which sector do you invest in primarily according to your dedication to help other people and high degree of social awareness
MM: For potential investors and tourists, which messages would you like to convey about Turkey? YY: Turkey is a unique country in terms of its history, geography as well as human resources. Turkey is located in the center of a region with an intense section of the global economy, that became the center of civilization, hosted empires within the history. It has a dynamic, educated and young population. Its economy is competitive and open to innovation, just like it is the case for its human resources. Turkey provides a very good environment for foreign investors to invest. I'm sure that not only investors but also tourists will have an enjoyable experience in Turkey that they have never had before. Moralmoda Magazine | Cover-story 18
YY: As Yükselir Group, we started to prioritize technology in our investments. Technology is a field that we both internalize and see as an investment tool. Besides, we have social responsibility projects in the field of arts and sports. We evaluate them as social entrepreneurship. We support creative young people focused on social issues, without prioritizing profit. As Yükselir Group, we are proud to take part in the training of new individuals in the field of arts and sports.
"As Yükselir Group, we started to prioritize technology in our investments. Besides, we have social responsibility projects in the field of arts and sports."
Mr. Yavuz Yükselir, Chairman of the Board of Directors of Yükselir Group.
Moralmoda Magazine | Cover-story 19
You recently had a daughter. Her name is Ysabel-Kamile. What legacy (in a sense of behavior or culture ) would you like to leave to her? What kind of world do you think your daughter will be in? YY: Of course, I want my daughter to be a conscious, fair and sensitive person, but if we are to set a principle, it should be based upon the sense of responsibility. The concept of responsibility is a little different for me. The sense of responsibility I want to convey to my daughter is on what she has to do for the things she has. For example, if my daughter is living in a good financial situation, she is responsible for those who are not well-off. If she has a good education, she is responsible for those who cannot get a good education. If she is in good health, she is responsible for those who are in bad health conditions. This understanding of responsibility will tell her what she has to do for herself and remind her of what she should do for people who are less fortunate than her.
"I want my daughter to be a conscious, fair and sensitive person, but if we are to set a principle, it should be based upon the sense of responsibility." - Mr. Yavuz Yükselir, Chairman of the Board of Directors of Yükselir Group.
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"I want my daughter to be a conscious, fair and sensitive person, but if we are to set a principle, it should be based upon the sense of responsibility." - Mr. Yavuz Yükselir, Chairman of the Board of Directors of Yükselir Group.
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This is actually the legacy I want to leave to my daughter. In addition, I hope that the world of the future will be a place where the people would respect each other, environment- friendly and the differences in terms of the levels of human development would disappear.
We are grateful to Mr Yavuz Yükselir for taking Your time and to share the great insight and Your experience in this interview.
"As in every sector, the tourism sector needs to invest in areas such as big data, artificial intelligence and protection of personal data. We will have important projects on standardization that can be established in these areas together with UNWTO. Thus, we will move closer to the goal of creating a sustainable global tourism industry." - Mr. Yavuz Yükselir, Chairman of the Board of Directors of Yükselir Group.
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Georgia – the Land of
Unlimited Opportunities Georgia, which sits in the foothills of Greater Caucasus mountains, between the Black and Caspian Seas, is a country with great history and rich culture. Georgia is best known to the rest of the world for its great wines, artists, and rugby team. Although previously lesser known to foreign investors, Georgia is one of the best places to do business in the world. Over the last two decades, the country has become synonymous with successful reforms and rapid development. For eliminating a large part of the bureaucracy and implementing business friendly policies, Georgia is recognized by international organizations and is even hailed as a “top reformer”. As a result, the small country at the crossroads of Europe and Asia is rapidly becoming a regional hub for business. The World Bank Group ranks Georgia among the world’s top 10 economies for Ease of doing Business, and the country maintains this superior rank among all the European countries.
To dive deeper, here are just some of the benefits that Georgia offers international companies today: - Georgia provides customs duty-free access to 2.3 billion market.* - Georgia has strong European aspirations, with the aim of becoming a full-fledged member of the EU within the nearest future. The country has taken some major steps in this direction, in pustular, signing and ratifying the Association Agreement with EU in 2014, including Deep and Comprehensive Free Trade Agreement (“DCFTA”). - In 2016, Georgia also signed a free trade agreement with EFTA countries, giving Georgian products duty free access to markets of Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway and Switzerland. - Since then, Georgia has concluded free trade agreements with the People’s Republic of China (including Hong Kong) and most recently with the UK, which came into force after the Brexit.
* Additionally, Georgia has signed the FTAs with the CIS countries that include Belarus, Kazakhstan, Russia, Ukraine, Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan, as well as all its neighbors, Turkey, Azerbaijan and Armenia. As a result, Georgia provides duty-free access to 2.3 billion market. All images courtesy enterprise.gov.ge, below landscape of Georgia.
Images courtesy of Louis Moinet.
This trend of opening up more and more markets is ever expanding for the country, with General Schemes of Preference for Georgia being applied by the US, Canada, and Japan, resulting in lower tariffs on 3,400 goods exported from the country. With this, a proposed series of FTAs, including Georgia-Israel, Georgia-India and Georgia-U.S., are also in the works. All of this, paired with strategic location and well developed infrastructure, 4 sea ports, 3 international airports, internationally connected railway (connecting China and Turkey), highway from border to border, give investors all the opportunities to capitalize on the possibilities arising from the FTAs and trade flows passing through the country. With the perfect blend of skilled workforce and fresh talent pool, Georgia has historically been educational center of the region. A good testament to this being the fact that today the country has more than 60 Higher education and 65 Vocational education centers. The Higher education institutions have produced a fresh set of
Moralmoda Magazine | In focus: Georgia 24
these professionals, with over 150 thousand students who graduated over the last 5 years. Although impressive when compared to the small size of the country, Georgia is yet set to strengthen its position, as further projects with the new Kutaisi International University, which, at full capacity will host 60 thousand students. KIU operational model was developed in partnership with Technical University of Munich and will offer vocational, undergraduate, graduate, and post-graduate degree programs as well as research possibilities in science and technology. KIU will join other high profile universities of regional importance, such as Tbilisi State University, Tbilisi Technical University and Tbilisi Ilia University, in a new collaboration with San Diego State University. Coupled with multilingual capabilities, well reflected in booming international business services sector, Georgia is ready to offer investors a skilled workforce and highly motivated talent pool that are ready to help companies reach their goals and achieve success.
One of the lowest operational costs Being a business friendly country is also reflected on low operational costs. Today, the country holds some of the lowest utility costs in the Europe, competitive salaries and one of the lowest taxes, which make Georgia one of the most cost effective locations in Europe and the wider region. Over 75% of electricity is generated from hydro and wind, making electricity not only cheap but also green. Since 2017, corporate profit tax on reinvested profit is 0% and social security contribution is only 2%. Georgia’s stripped-down and streamlined tax scheme has produced the 3rd lowest overall tax rates in the world according to World Bank Group. Paying taxes is simple and transparent. Companies pay taxes online, through commercial banks, minimizing procedures and bureaucracy. Furthermore, the country has four free industrial zones, offering additional tax incentives. Taxation is just one of many examples of the ease of doing business. In fact, one of the first things that you notice while getting started in Georgia is how simple and transparent everything is. Georgia ranks 7th in Ease of Doing Business index by World Bank 2020. This is not just a ranking, but rather something you can feel. For example, starting a business or registering a property takes only hours and can be done by visiting a single authority. The same easiness and simplicity can be experienced while dealing with any government organizations.
Getting permits or licenses or dealing with customs, everything is transparent, fair and most importantly, does not take much time. The fact that Georgia ranks 1st in terms of - least need to interact with government while doing business - according to Trace International Matrix 2020, is one more proof of the low bureaucracy and pro-business environment that Georgia has created.
Additional financial support mechanisms Companies in following sectors, manufacturing of electrical and electronic products; manufacturing of aircraft parts and components, aircraft repair and maintenance (MRO); manufacture of auto parts and components; export of business services / business process outsourcing (BPO); development of warehouses and logistic centers; can apply for a special FDI grant program from “Invest in Georgia”. The program is designed to reimburse the part of the costs inquired for employee training and infrastructure upgrades. Together with FDI grant, manufacturing projects can acquire state owned property (land or building) free of charge. As for IT and marine companies, looking to service clients from Georgia, corporate profit and personal tax will both be reduced to 5%. Additionally, for manufacturing or hospitality projects, subsidizing loan interest payment or loan collateral is also available. If we tally up all the above mentioned Georgia’s value proposition looks strong, and yet, there is still more.
Additional financial support mechanisms Companies in following sectors, manufacturing of electrical and electronic products; manufacturing of aircraft parts and components, aircraft repair and maintenance (MRO); manufacture of auto parts and components; export of business services / business process outsourcing (BPO); development of warehouses and logistic centers; can apply for a special FDI grant program from “Invest in Georgia”. The program is designed to reimburse the part of the costs inquired for employee training and infrastructure upgrades. Together with FDI grant, manufacturing projects can acquire state owned property (land or building) free of charge. As for IT and marine companies, looking to service clients from Georgia, corporate profit and personal tax will both be reduced to 5%. Additionally, for manufacturing or hospitality projects, subsidizing loan interest payment or loan collateral is also available. If we tally up all the above mentioned Georgia’s value proposition looks strong, and yet, there is still more.
Welcoming people, unique culture & amazing nature Distinguished with its biodiversity, Georgia boasts rich natural and cultural resources and is home to more than 12,000 historical and cultural monuments, four of which are included in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Georgia has something for everyone, the mountains, the sea, ancient cities, protected areas, more than 500 varieties of unique wines and one of the best cuisines in the world. Anyone, either with family or on their own can find their type of activity, be it hiking, skiing, sunbathing on the beach or raving until early morning, Georgia will leave you wanting more and fortunately, you can find that more in Georgia again. For Companies looking to find a place with great access to global markets, talented people, cost competitiveness, ease of doing business or maybe all of the above; Georgia is the right place. We would like to invite you to Georgia, since seeing with your eyes will make you a believer Georgia is truly a place where it is a pleasure doing business., see more on: enterprise.gov.ge. Moralmoda Magazine | Investment 17 For Companies looking to find a place with great access to global markets, talented people, cost competitiveness, ease of doing business or maybe all of the above; Georgia is the right place. We would like to invite you to Georgia, since seeing with your eyes will make you a believer Georgia is truly a place where it is a pleasure doing business., see more on: enterprise.gov.ge.
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Moralmoda Magazine | Investment 27
The World’s No.1 Investment Summit
14th Anniversary Global Family Office Investment Summit Left to right: H.E. Dr. Thani Al Zeyoudi, Minister of State for Foreign Trade, Minister in charge of Talent Attraction and Retention at at Ministry of Economy, UAE, with Sir Anthony Ritossa.
Right: Grand Ambassador Mohamed Al Ali, CEO of Al Ali Holdings, UAE.
Sir Anthony Ritossa's Conference Dates in 2021: 14th Conference, Dubai, March 28 to March 30 - DubaiSummit.org 15th Conference, Riyadh, May 30 to June 1 - SaudiSummit.org 16th Conference, Monaco, July 18 to July 20 - MonacoSummit.org 17th Inauguration Conference, Singapore, November 16 to 18
Recognised as the world's most influential gathering of elite family office decision-makers, Sir Anthony Ritossa’s Global Family Office Investment Summits launches in Dubai with the 14th edition, followed by Summits in Riyadh in May and Monaco in July. Hosted by Ritossa Family Office, a family business dating back 600 years, to the time of the Venetian Empire in Europe, and with close ties with the Middle East, this is the 14th event in a Global Series covering Dubai, Monaco, Riyadh and Miami and the 9th one in Dubai. Its network of family offices promotes uniting together to build a better world through strategic investments and open discussion about, “the most critical issues facing our planet.“ said Sir Anthony Ritossa, Chairman of Ritossa Family Office & Host of Ritossa Global Family Office Investment Summits, UAE.
Themed "Family Offices Investing For A Brighter Future", the Dubai Summit will act as a bridge between Middle East families and their European, U.S., Asian and Latin American counterparts to meet, and network in a safe-harbour environment. During the past 5 years, Sir Anthony has hosted 1,500+ elite family offices, prominent business owners, royal families, private investment companies, sheikhs and sovereign wealth funds from over 30 countries, representing US$4.5 trillion in wealth. His events have been responsible for US$1 billion+ in investments in companies ranging from start-ups to major global corporations. Sir Anthony’s background includes 30 +years of international financial markets and investment experience, including senior executive positions at Nomura, Barclays Capital, Morgan Stanley, BNP Paribas, and Bankers Trust (acquired by Deutsche Bank), DubaiSummit.org.
ELITE EVENT CALENDAR
UNDER THE HIGH PATRONAGE OF THE UAE MINISTRY OF ECONOMY, 28-30 March 2021, Dubai
Manera Monte-Carlo Yacht
74, boulevard d’Italie c/o Sun Office - MONACO 98000 - tel : +33 6 78 63 55 10 e-mail: info@maneramcgroup.com
www.maneramonte-carlogroup.com
A real demonstration of lifestyle
on the French Riviera, the film «Costa azzurra»
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is available on our instagram. Several actors from different sectors of luxury collaborate to produce this Court métrage. Model: Julien Guirado. Production: Fly & Dive. Yachts: Manera Monte-Carlo Yacht. Car: Emotion Automobiles. Clothing: Crisoni Monaco.
Ioane Bagration
By Carlos Mundy Photos Irma Sharikadze
A prince for Georgia's future
Years ago, I had the honor of meeting T.R.H. Prince Bagrat and Princess Carmen Bagration of Georgia for whom I have always felt a sincere affection. I am writing this article about their son Prince Ioane for whom I have great admiration and who has all the qualities of a prince of the 21st century. I think it is important, dear readers, to share with you some notes on the history of a country, which I will be for the first time visiting soon. The country of Georgia had suffered. Ottoman and Persian invasions and occupations for centuries. In 1783 King Erekle II signed
the Treaty of Georgievsk with Catherine the Great, the Empress of Russia, whereby the country of Georgia became a Russian protectorate in which the Bagration royal dynasty was to be guaranteed with its territorial integrity and the crown. In return, Russia would conduct the foreign policy and Georgia's enemies would be Russia's enemies. Despite their agreement, Russia did nothing to help the Georgians during the disastrous Battle of Krtsanisi in 1795, which left Tbilisi sacked and Georgia devastated. On 14 January 1798, King Erekle II was
succeeded to the throne by his eldest son, George XII who, on 22 February 1799, recognized his own eldest son Prince David, as the official heir. However, fighting broke out between King George's numerous sons and those of his late father over the throne, as Erekle II had changed the order of succession at the behest of his third wife, Queen Darejan Dadiani, favoring the younger brothers of the future kings over his own sons. Georgia lost its sovereignty, the king did not lose the throne, but the dynasty was mediatised under the Russian Tsars.
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Continuous pressure from Persia prompted King George XII to request Russian intervention. The Tsar provisionally accepted this offer, but before negotiations could be finalized he changed his mind and issued a decree on 18 December 1800 annexing Georgia to Russia and deposing the Bagration family, forcing the dynasty and its descendants to become part of the Russian nobility. In 1921 Soviet forces invaded the country forcing most of the members of the dynasty to seek exile. H.R.H. Prince Irakli BagrationMukhrani was born in 1909 when Georgia was part of the Russian Empire. From exile, he played a leading role for Georgia and remained in a firm opposition to the Soviet rule in Georgia. After his father's death in 1957, Prince Irakli succeeded him as Head of the Royal House of Georgia. He had a son, Prince George by his first wife Maria Antonietta Pasquini dei Conti di Costafiorita who died in childbirth. After the tragedy, Prince Irakli settled in Spain and married H.R.H. Infanta Maria de las Mercedes de Bavaria y Borbon, niece of King Alfonso XIII and had two children: Princess Mariam and Prince Bagrat. On his death in 1977, Prince Irakli designated Prince Bagrat, who was married to Carmen de Ulloa y Suelves, as his dynastic heir, and not his firstborn son Prince George. This decision gave rise to a dynastic split, that at the time did not seem to be important, as the recovery of Georgia's sovereignty and its independence from the Communist Soviet yoke still seemed to be a mirage. Interestingly, Prince George did as his father had done and named his second son Prince David as his dynastic heir and not his first-born son Prince Irakli. However, this article is not about the dynastic dispute over the Georgian throne but about one of its most charismatic members. Ioane was born on 18 August 1977 in Madrid. In 2014, fulfilling the dream of his father who passed away in 2017, he moved his residence to Tbilisi to serve the country. That same year he married the Georgian sociologist Kristine Dzidziguri under a civil wedding held in Spain, Ronda. On the 3rd of June 2018, with the blessing of His Holiness and Beatitude Ilia II Catholicos-Patriarch of All Georgia the royal couple married religiously in Svetitskhoveli Georgia’s most ancient Cathedral. On the 19th January 2021 their first child, Prince Bagrat, was born in Tbilisi. Since his first visit to the country of his ancestors, for Prince Ioane Georgia became his great passion. With the awareness that it is his duty to work actively for the good of the country and the Georgian people, he is actively involved in different projects. Therefore, using his network of international contacts he contributes to the promotion of Georgia as an
international investment and touristic destination. Ioane is proud of Georgia's long and rich history, a tolerant Christian nation where all religions and ethnic minorities live together in harmony. He is also a fan of the exceptional Georgian gastronomy and as a tribute to Georgia being the birthplace of wine, Ioane embarked on the adventure of creating his wines under his brand “Prince Ioane Bagrationi” symbolizing love for his heritage and respect for the country's sacred traditions. In addition to his successful winemaking venture, he is the Founder and President of the “Georgian Foundation”. His empathy for the disfavored and his fascination for culture have been the pillars for establishing a charitable foundation in 2014. Together with Princess Kristine, his main supporter, he is realizing his dream of contributing to the development of Georgia by supporting education, culture and different social projects. As a result of his charisma, generosity, empathy, loyalty, honesty, courage, closeness, integrity, strength, dedication and exemplarity, he and Princess Kristine, day by day, earn the affection and respect of their compatriots. They are a dream couple, a true reflection of the new generation of Georgians and the best ambassadors a country could have. www.georgianfoundation.ge www.princeioane.com Moralmoda Magazine | Foundation and philanthrophy 29
ECO EVENT HIGHLIGHTS
The World’s 1st sustainable island German Volkswagen Group & the Greek government turn island into a climate neutral model
Greece in the 70s
Words: Ulrike E. Schlenter, Interior Design, Art, Decoration - International specialist in eco- friendly materials, sustanability
Astypalea: Smart, sustainable island.
Being an interior design myself who is active in sustainability and who, when choosing materials and products, selects those that offer low environmental impact and lower pollution, waste and energy consumption, it is with great delight when I heared about Astypalea becoming a smart and sustainable island. Astypalea up until now is probably only known to insiders. The small butterfly-shaped island is located exactly where the Dodecanese meet the Cyclades, boasting a centuries-old history, whitewashed villages and sun-drenched beaches. It has a population of approx. 1,300, covers an area of some 100 square kilometers and is visited by some 72,000 tourists each year. Astypalea currently only has a very limited public transport service with two buses that only operate on a small area of the island. At present, energy demand is almost entirely met by fossil fuel sources. This is likely to change in the future: Astypalea will become a model for
Moralmoda Magazine | High-end sector energy 30
smart, emission-free mobility. The current transport system on the island will transition to electric vehicles and renewable power generation. Astypalea will become a model for smart, emission-free mobility. The island has just the right size to test transport systems efficiency. A memorandum of understanding to this effect was signed in Wolfsburg, Germany and Athens, Greece in November 2020 by Konstantinos Fragogiannis, Deputy Minister of Foreign Affairs for Economic Diplomacy and Openness, and Dr. Herbert Diess, CEO of the Volkswagen Group, Germany. The new mobility services such as vehicle sharing or ridesharing will help reduce and optimize traffic. Energy will be primarily generated from local green power sources such as solar and wind. The project initially will run for six years. In total, around 1,000 electric vehicles of various types, from electric scooters through to electric cars that would replace about 1,500 conventional cars on the island today. The first e-vehicles are expected to be government vehicles and are expected to be deployed in the first half of 2021, followed closely by the first private vehicles delivered to customers. This will be combined with a dense charging network by Volkswagen's Elli subsidiary offering about 230 private and several public charging points.
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summer to Greeks’ islands hotspots in the main summer months. However many islands have been struggeling to keep up with the all the tourist and reaching their breaking points in terms of water and electricity supply. Let alone the high emissions of the various cars, scooter, and boats in those months.
All images this and opposite page courtesy of Volkswagen Group.
It was 1971 when I had travelled to Greece for the first time. Together with a good friend of mine we had taken a plane from Frankfurt, Germany to Athens, hopped on a ferry in Piraeus direction IOS, a Greek island in the Cyclades group in the Aegean Sea. I fell in love with Greece, its culture, natural beauty, its pristine beaches and its hospitable and friendly inhabitants. Everything was so different from my home country, Germany. When we arrived at the Port of IOS, the inhabitants were waiting with their carriages and their donkeys for the goods that were delivered by the ferry, for the curious travellers to whom they could rent out their rooms. At that time there were only a few simple hotels available on the island; most of us were led up a path to the nearby hill to the Chora, which is the Greek word on every island for the main village. The Chora is a white cycladic village, full of stairs, narrow paths that make it inaccessible for cars of any kind. In those days the living was extremely simple. One morning, the running water on the whole island was completely gone! Interesting moments followed, island hopping included, some more adventures.In 1976 I returned to Greece, this time to Crete, Heraklion to explore the island on a bike. Strolling around in Matala, in the South where the faded Hippie flair of the 60's could still be sensed, experienced at various locations. The charme of Greece hasn't changed. I always get inspired by my lifelong love of travelling, fascination with the natural world. So I had to see more countries, diversity, curiosity, always to explore new, different things. So I only came back in 2016 how much Greece had changed !I became a member of the Yacht Club of Greece/ YCG. In 2019 I had been invited to join the Spetses Classic Regatta in June, starting in front of the Poseidon Grand Hotel, Spetses. For me as a Hamburg native, enthusiastic sailor - what an amazing event. During these days I had also the opportunity to visit with an architect the Anargyrios & Korgialenios School of Spetses: a Foundation established in 1923 on a picturesque 120.000qm ground. An enclave of unique natural beauty, surrounded by pine forests and olive groves. Absolutely an idyllic natural setting. Another area of our continent that's needs to be preserved.Of course a lot has changed since then, many tourists are now flocking every
ENERGY NEWS
The electric fleet will be powered entirely by green renewable electricity consisting of wind and solar power systems, which the Greek government will install on the island.
This lighthouse project Astypalea will be the first smart, green island in the Mediterranean with energy autonomy.
The electric fleet will be powered entirely by green renewable electricity consisting of wind and solar power systems, which the Greek government will install on the island. This lighthouse project Astypalea will be the first smart, green island in the Mediterranean with energy autonomy. The green and sustainable action plan will have a positive impact on the everyday life of the islands’ inhabitants. The island will become a model for climate-neutral mobility and a pioneer for sustainable tourism over the coming years.It could be the first region in the world to achieve completely emission-free traffic. Moralmoda Magazine | Energy 31
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25
Louis Moinet debuts
'Chichén Itzá' tourbillon and the new “Marvels of the World“
collection of timepieces
'Chichén Itzá' tourbillon. Images courtesy of Louis Moinet.
Ateliers Louis Moinet builds on the exceptional heritage of Louis Moinet (1768-1853), the master watchmaker and inventor of the chronograph in 1816. ‘Wonders of the World’ is a new series of eight pièces unique to commemorate the brand’s new partnership status with the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH). The brands previous Mexican inspired creations include ‘Only Mexico’, timepiece as part of “Mechanical Wonders” collection. This unique piece treasures the oldest-known material in the world, Allende meteorite, found in the State of Chihuahua. This time another Mesoamerican monument is selected for the new one-of-a-kind Chichén Itzá tourbillon. The Temple of Kukulkan pyramid in Chichen Itza (from 8th-12th c. AD) is scaled to occupy upper half of its spectacular dial. It is depicted in red gold and Burmese jade, against a sunset colored 96 rubies and baguette-cut sapphires. The dial features the most typical symbols of Mayan civilisation,
which are depicted with precious gemstones and sophisticated gold engravings, celebrating the heritage and savoir-faire of the Maison. The Chichén Itzá Pyramid and the engraved deity aptly protect a precious manually-wound movement that beats at 21,600 VPH and has a power reserve of seventy-two hours. As Ateliers Louis Moinet joins the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, it signifies an important step aptly celebrated with an exceptional timepiece for the new Marvels of the World collection. The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie was established in 2005 by Audemars Piguet, Girard-Perregaux and the Richemont group and includes 43 prestigious partner-brands, like BOVET, Breitling, Bulgari, Carl F. Bucherer, Cartier, Chanel, Chopard, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, Greubel Forsey, Hermès, H. Moser & Cie, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Kari Voutilainen, Laurent Ferrier, Louis Vuitton, MB&F, Montblanc, Officine Panerai, Parmigiani Fleurier, Piaget, Van Cleef & Arpels, Zenith and many more. See more on louismoinet.com.
Images courtesy of Jacob & Co.
“Inspired by the Impossible”
Astronomia Tourbillon Five Minute accelerates the iconic Jacob & Co.'s
triple-axis tourbillon movement The luxury watchmaker Jacob & Co. represents a pinnacle of fine Swiss watchmaking in the 21st century. The brand is renowned for revolutionary movements and extraordinary melange of craftsmanship from sport and jewellery watches. Jacob & Co.’s iconic Astronomia watch collection blends uniquely the sophistication of movement engineering with extraordinary gem-setting techniques. This quality of the Maison’s savior-faire is masterfully presented by Jacob & Co.‘s limited Astronomia series, often available as pièce unique only. Since Jacob & Co. transformed the tourbillon in 2014, into a vertical, 3D, moving structure on display for Astronomia series, the brand has also created a series of unique movements that bring to life the extraordinary and fully handmade dials of the Astronomia Art time pieces. Previous Astronomia series feature signature customized dials, including world cities, the Dragon, the Astronomia Spider, the Astronomia Octopus, the Astronomia Three Monkeys, and recently the mythical Phoenix.
Reflecting on the savoir-faire in these creations the Swiss team continued its extensive research that has led to enhanced movements and revolutionary engineering. As a result of two years of research and true to its motto “Inspired by the Impossible” the brand founded in 1986 by Jacob Arabo, presents the Astronomia Tourbillon Five Minute. Powering this incredible timepiece is the iconic Jacob & Co. double-axis tourbillon movement, featuring additional axes in which the tourbillon turns. The Astronomia's tourbillon is triple-axis - turning in two axes: one in 60 seconds and the second in just 1 minute and 15 seconds. This increases the complexity of the movement and its revolution across a dial invisibly set with 257 baguette diamonds ~8.27 cts.). The iconic 288-facet Jacob-cut diamond on the second satellite, and respectively the magnesium lacquered globe on the fourth satellite, rotate on themselves in just 15 seconds. This enables a full revolution of all four satellites around the central axis in five minutes. If the reflection from diamonds doesn’t make your mind spin these specs will, jacobandco.com.
Moralmoda Magazine | Haute Horlogerie 33
Zenith, world record holder in number of precision timekeeping awards, counting 2,333, since 1903, dedicates year 2021 to the iconic Chronomaster. LVMH’s first digital watch week was mix of physical presentations and one-to-one meetings as well in 15 countries. For Zenith, and during the LVMH watch week, the focus is on its evolved version of the El Primero, allowing for 1/10th of a second time measurement. In the words of Zenith CEO Julien Tornare shares, “the Chronomaster Sport sets a new standard of precision, performance and design for the staple Zenith automatic chronograph.“ The Chronomaster line has been one of the most emblematic chronograph collections of the 21st century; steeped in Zenith’s traditin of making exceptional, standard-setting automatic chronographs. Now, the all-new Chronomaster Sport puts forth an entirely redesigned aesthetic.
The result of over 50 years of working and perfecting the El Primero, the Chronomaster Sport line is equipped with the newest version of the legendary calibre, the El Primero 3600. With its high frequency of 5 Hz (36’000 VpH), the movement is able to precisely offer a 1/10th of second that’s easily readable, displayed directly on the bezel as well as the dial. Its autonomy has also been rendered more efficient, with an extended power reserve of 60 hours. Visible through the sapphire display back, the newarchitecture is strikingly evident, revealing a blue column wheel and open rotor marked with the five-pointed star Zenith.
DEFY 21 URBAN JUNGLE Reference: 49.9006.9004/90.R942
New emblematic models at
LVMH Watch Week
Bulgari has interpreted its Serpenti models over the years in fine jewellery creations and like seen here in the new Serpenti Spiga watch adorned with matelassé pattern, diamonds and know-how of Bugari's jewellery-making artistry. Spiga, the Italian word for spike, is well descriptive for a contemporary watch that reflects Roman design tradition and symbolism. Serpenti Spiga watch holds quartz movement, winded by rose gold crown set with a cabochon-cut rubellite, and white or black mother-of-pearl dial and single-spiral 18 kt rose gold bracelet set with diamonds. LVMH Watch Week also saw the launch of the now iconic Octo Finissimo line, which gets updated with Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT. Powered by the world's thinnest automatic movement - the line is now updated with an unprecedented stainless steel monochrome edition. It blends practicality with mechanical complexity. The latest model with a silver vertical-brushed dial looks particularly contemporary and striking against the radial brushed bezel.
For the first time since success in Dubai, the LVMH group stages three brands in Geneva Bulgari, Hublot and Zenith. Bulgari presents new models from five iconic watch series for ladies and men. Divas’ Dream is updated with three strikingly innovative and regal models, thanks to the intoxicating colours of fauna world, Divas’ Dream Peacock Dischi and Divas’ Dream Peacock Tourbillon Lumière (see above). Both limited editions blend prestigious decorative techniques and jewellery-making know-how with rare Swiss watchmaking expertise. Presented in exclusive metiers d’art, bringing the animal’s colour magic to life on the exceptional natural peacock feather marquetry dial.
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Courtesy left and above Bulgari, Octo Finissimo model from 2019.
Savoir-faire in Paris
From the Chef to the Master Jeweler: HandsOn Excellence Created by the initiative of Van Cleef & Arpels, L'ÉCOLE offers introductory and experimentation courses à la carte, in France and abroad, focusing on unlocking the secrets of the world of jewelry. L'ÉCOLE offers an exclusive program, revolving around three main themes: savoir-faire, history of jewelry, and the universe of gemstones. This year Van Cleef & Arpels partners with the legendary Ritz Paris offer exceptional courses to participants who wish to combine learning about the secrets of fine dining and fine jewellery. A day long course takes place at the Place Vendôme in Paris, where the guests will be welcomed at Ecole Ritz Escoffier to discover the techniques of the greatest Chefs. While preparing two seasonal dishes, guests will learn how to master the techniques of carving and cooking meat and fish with due respect to the rules of the art. Then, the discovery journey of the French ‘savoir-faire’ will continue at L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts, where guests can become familiar with the multiple “métiers” involved in creating a high jewelry masterpiece. Seated at the traditional and authentic jeweler's workbench, guests will try out the jewelers’ gestures hands-on, and thus experience all the richness of these artistic professions.
"I want my daughter to be a conscious, fair and sensitive person, but if we are to set a principle, it should be based upon the sense of responsibility." - Mr. Yavuz Yükselir, Chairman of the Board of Directors of Yükselir Group.
Dates : From January on Fridays, 26 March, 30 April 2021 Price : 420€/person, language French. inscriptions on www.lecolevancleefarpels.com
Image above: Façade du Ritz © Vincent Leroux. Left: L'École des Arts Joailliers Atelier de joaillerie Avec l'aimable autorisation de Yatzer
Moralmoda Magazine | Leisure 35
MB&F breaks the
sapphire ceiling with an impossible accomplishment
MB&F ©
Horological Machine N°9 ‘Sapphire Vision’
Breguet
Inventor of the Tourbillon In 2021, Breguet celebrates the 220 years since its founder Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747–1823, a man of the Enlightenment) invented the celebrated Tourbillon. Maisons unprecedented quest to produce the world’s most accurate fine watches, resulted in the groundbreaking innovation by Breguet, post French revolution. Moving to exile in Swiss alps Breguet used his unvoluntary Swiss intermezzo very efficiently. The groundbreaking invention was developped during his years in Switzerland. Aware of the importance of his invention the French watchmaker applied for a patent in 1801. When it expired after ten years, the tourbillon became omnipresent part of haute horologerie. The very first tourbillon models sold from the start of the 19th century, enabled a groundbreaking development of the watchmaking and timekeeping up to today. This year, the House of Breguet will commemorate its founder’s ingenuity, with new Tourbillon model announced for June 26th, and preceded by a series of celebratory events. The achievements of the luxury watchmaker Breguet are per se an integral part of the history in more than one sense. Furthermore many pocket watches went to historic personalities, and royal and museum collections. Among Breguet’s first tourbillon creations was No. 1188, Tourbillon timepiece, sold in 1808 to Prince Antonio de Bourbon of Spain, (right), Breguet.com.
Moralmoda Magazine No. 37 | Haute Horlogerie 36
MB&F’s unique movements in watch series of Horological Machines seemingly lean on the extraordinary automotive and aeronautic designs of the 1940s and 50s, cherished by the founder himself. The latest Horological Machine N°9, unveils completely the adapted movement inspired by the epoch’s aerodynamic lines, aptly encased in a transparent shell. HM N°9 ‘Sapphire Vision’ – aka HM9-SV is a result of two years of research. It embodies the most contemporary engineering and savoir-faire of Swiss watchmaking, while celebrating the period’s design. Initially the uncompromising HM9 case in sapphire crystal was regarded as theoretically impossible. The new HM9 proves that ‘where there’s a will there’s a way’. MB&F’s impossible craftsmanship underlines why this métier recently got recognised by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. The end result meets its match in dedication by the MB&F’s team of specialised Friends to realize the impossible – whilst respecting the minimum requirement for any MB&F case to withstand pressure equal to 30M deep. The new HM9 is part of award winning watch series, which recently marked 10 years of HM3 Frog, with the latest “FrogX” anniversary editions. Ten years ago the watchmaking world also saw the launch of one of the most radical Machines from the Swiss luxury brand: the HM4 Thunderbolt. Even though HM9’s external appearance initially draws most of the attention, MB&F doesn’t only breaks the sapphire ceiling but does it so elegantly with what Maximilian Büsser, CEO of MB&F, described as “the most beautiful movement we’ve created to date”, mbandf.com.
Breguet's earliest timepieces are preserved in some of the world’s most acclaimed museums, including the British Museum, the Topkapi Palace Museum in Istanbul, Louvre and of course the Breguet Museum in Paris. Below: No. 1188, Breguet ©.
Boucheron©
Boucheron
Exceptional Timepieces His love for the volume and fluidity of materials is beautifly represented in the creations of the Maison Boucheron's Haute Joaillerie and Exceptional timepieces collections, such as the Cicada secret watch.
Courtesy of greubelforsey.com
Greubel Forsey unveils the groundbreaking
GMT Quadruple Tourbillon in a new and limited titanium edition The groundbreaking GMT Quadruple Tourbillon is now available in a limited titanium edition of 11 pieces. The
situations, especially in stable wristwatch positions. To achieve this, the original tourbillon has been elevated to
GMT series which debuted in 2013, highlight a 24 second inclined tourbillon, which is tilted at 30º in the new
realise its full potential: inclined at 30°, doubled and then quadrupled.
model. Positioned at 8 o'clock is a very beautiful spherical model of the Earth which rotates once every 24 hours, and which is driven by the same gearing that drives the GMT
The result, two synchronised Double Tourbillon 30° mechanisms, where a first cage, inclined at 30° and rotating in one minute, is nested within a second
complication on the back of the watch. The spherical dial is an original Greubel Forsey
horizontal cage, completing a full rotation in four minutes. A spherical differential transmits the average timing rate
creation debuted in 2011. Its blue surface plays very elegantly with the new titanium case and sapphire side
of the four tourbillon cages, improving the overall chronometric performance of all the regulating organs.
window. The GMT Quadruple Tourbillon's second chapter is
Greubel Forsey cleverly avoids the traditional precious metals, by presenting a case in titanium which on its
loaded with new materials, new colours and new finishes. The GMT Quadruple Tourbillon is radical in all its aspects and it is considered an example of a horological
hand has numerous qualities: it is both stronger and lighter than steel, while also being extremely resistant to corrosion and magnetic fields. Its sixth quality is lightness
breakthrough. The Quadruple Tourbillon is Greubel Forsey’s second Fundamental Invention, which enables to
of the material, providing a modern and dynamic feel on the wrist, paired with the new rubber strap, it fully
average out positional errors due to the gravity in all
underlines the new contemporary identity of the GMT. Moralmoda Magazine No. 37 | Haute Horlogerie 37
Exceptional Timepieces
The luxury Maison Boucheron combines exceptional savoir-faire of timepieces and haute joailleria. Disrupting traditional ideas of gem-set watches while displaying the new paradigm creatively. The son of cloth merchants, Frédéric Boucheron promotes designs often based on the episthemiology and the fluidity Moralmoda Magazine No. 37 | Haute Horlogerie 38
from fabrics. Boucheron creations challange the onthology of the classical watch design. His love for the volume and fluidity of materials is beautifly represented in the creations of the Maison Boucheron's Haute Joaillerie and Exceptional timepieces collections, such as the Cicada secret watch, boucheron.com
Courtesy of Boucheron.
Boucheron
Le Vian
Family owned jewellery house Le Vian can trace its lineage back 500 years. While the family's first brush with royalty was in 1746, today Le Vian is the custodian of a museum-worthy collection of treasures including jewels and bejewelled objects dating back to 1501. Moralmoda interviews CEO Eddie LeVian.
"When in 1746, the Persian ruler Nadir Shah conquered India, he chose the LeVian family to guard the royal jewels, including the legendary Koh-I-Noor diamond." - Eddie LeVian, CEO Le Vian. Courtesy all images Le Vian.
New York headquartered family jeweller and trusted treasurers of Persia's 18th century royal jewels
MM: What are the origins of the Le Vian jewellery house? Eddie LeVian: We LeVian's hail from Persia. When in 1746, the Persian ruler Nadir Shah conquered India, he chose the LeVian family to guard the royal jewels, including the legendary Koh-I-Noor diamond. This invaluable stone is currently a part of the British Crown Jewels. My family history inspires my work and everything I do. Preserving precious treasures, traditional methods of jewellery making and upholding our legacy are at the centre of Le Vian's mission. Royalty still influences our modern designs and in the 80s and 90s, the Duchess of Windsor's collection inspired our designs significantly. Today our biggest fans include Hollywood royalty, like Rihanna and Jennifer Lopez, who are regular wearers of Le Vian. In 2019, for Le Vian's 10th anniversary in the UK, we invited guests to a private event at the Tower of London, where we showed guests, (some of whom had flown in from the US), the Koh-I-Noor diamond. This was a hugely meaningful and rewarding experience. MM: How important is the family spirit of your brand and the commitment to new retail technologies? EV: I am grateful to run the company alongside my family members who
include Liz, who heads up merchandising, Jonathan, who works on marketing and digital, Pamela on design, Joshua on e-commerce and real estate and Brandon on e-commerce. My brother Moossa’s organizational, financial and strategic executional skills complement my creative skills, embracing of technology and future thinking vision. Together, this enables us to effectively manage an adaptable organization that has supported our dramatic growth and enabled us to
navigate and weather the storms of the pandemic and its effect on our retailers, collectors and staff. We are committed to balance our desire to create the world's most beautiful and desirable jewelry with our mandate to give back 10-20% of our pre tax profits every year to charity.
Moralmoda Magazine | Fine Jewellery 39
At the same time, innovation has always been just as crucial to our success. Back when we decided to create the branded jewellery collection of Le Vian in the late 70s, many believed this was a counter-intuitive move. At the time, many were sceptical about the efficacy of diamond branding. Our small family business had no large bank loans to help us operate. So, we were forced to think creatively in order to work with the limited funds we had. Extensive trunk shows, and grassroots campaigns were employed to build our brand from the ground up. While it certainly was an uphill battle in those early days, it was this kind of innovative thinking that paved the pathway for success. In the 2010s, we worked closely with important retailers in strategic marketing agreements and launched successful TV campaigns. Now, we are proud to say that more than 40% of Americans recognise Le Vian's name. We know that the key to our success has always been a combination of our family values and our entrepreneurial, innovative spirit and we are keen to foster both of these traits. In early 2020 we launched Le Vian TV, a series of educational programs and shopping shows featuring industry experts and influencer guests. The company has hosted 100s of shows allowing us to engage directly and achieve an audience reach 1 million on some shows. In September, we launched a new geofencing technology which targets Le Vian collectors, letting them know when they are within a specific mile radius of
it is validating to have these efforts recognised and rewarded. I am personally of the belief that our commitment to innovation is what really sets us apart. In recent years, we have successfully transformed our brand into an efficient and effective omnichannel retailer. From creating Le Vian TV, to implementing Style Bars which can display the entire Le Vian vault to customers via tablets in many of our retailers, we continually seek to incorporate state of the art technology and thinking into our sales and marketing strategies. Recently we have turned our attention to maximising our social media engagement, creating short form video adverts specifically designed to increase traction. These videos have been garnering over 10.000 views daily and receive hundreds, even sometimes thousands of likes and comments. In terms of democratising luxury, our goal is to create jewellery that works at every price point. We want royals, millionaires and billionaires as well as middle-class people who never before dreamed of acquiring pieces of such high quality, to love their Le Vian jewels. MM: How did the taste of contemporary Le Vian customers evolve over time? EV: As part of our dedication to innovation, we are always on the lookout for new, upcoming trends and styles to popularise. Jewellery fashions have changed considerably over the years, and so too has Le Vian jewellery.
Le Vian Couture Peacock Aquaprase pendant. Courtesy all images Le Vian.
to be absolutely confident it will drive $20 million in sales going forward. We look at different sources of data to help our decision making. Celebrities and influencers give us clues as to what will be popular. Le Vian’s trunk shows are also an enormously important source of knowledge – when trunk shows have been taking place in nonpandemic conditions, there might be 10 trunk shows across the US on one day
"From creating the aforementioned Le Vian TV, to implementing Style Bars which can display the entire Le Vian vault to customers via tablets in many of our retailers, we continually seek to incorporate state of the art technology" - Eddie Le Vian, CEO Le Vian. a participating independent store, generating a pop-up digital impression on their smartphone. This new retail technology has allowed us to support our brick-andmortar independent retailers, many of whom have experienced unprecedented challenges as a result of the pandemic. Innovation allowed us to grow into the brand we are today, and we are confident it will help see us into the future. MM: In pursuit of excellence, Le Vian was recently honoured with the prestigious international JNA award? EV: We were absolutely delighted to have had a JNA award for innovation bestowed on us in 2020. We invest so much time in trying to create new and exciting ways to elevate our brand and
Moralmoda Magazine | Fine Jewellery 40
The 1950s was the Le Vian classic epoch. In the 1980s and ’90s however, our collections adapted, and our jewels were frequently inspired by the Duchess of Windsor's collection. The 2000s was a big game-changer for us. It was then that we launched our Strawberry Gold collection and our signature, Chocolate Diamonds. The Chocolate Diamonds collection, made from high quality, natural fancy colour brown diamonds, remains our most successful and bestknown range of jewellery today. We are always proactive in seeking out new styles, rather than reacting to current trends. When determining future trends, we use an evidenced based model to ensure that the styles we select will definitely become the fashion of tomorrow. For example, for an item to be selected as a gem of the year or any trend of the year, we need
and 3 across the UK. We’ll be closely tracking what is garnering interest and selling, and in this way we can gather a strong sense of what is working for our customers. Then social media engagement also allows us to measure the appeal of the items we are showcasing. Nowadays, we believe that many of our most ardent loyalists are interested in acquiring unusual and rare classifications of stones. Some fans already have large collections of classic pieces, and are enticed by the more unusual pieces. For them, we have many exciting stones on offer, such as exotic, colour changing, Chameleon Tourmalines or Blood Raspberry Rhodolites. The Peacock Aquaprase was the Exotic Gem of the Year for 2020. Le Vian added value to this already compelling offering by purchasing a significant part of the gemstone’s entire production, enabling
Le Vian to benefit from its exclusivity and economies of scale. This being said, there is definitely a core of continuity that can be traced through our earliest creations up to our most recent one. Our loyalists have always had refined and sophisticated tastes, and we have always and will continue to always create suitably elegant jewellery that they would feel proud to wear. MM: Which are the biggest challenges for Le Vian during the current pandemic, and how do you navigate in the digital age in terms of branding and appeal to modern customer? EV: I’m fairly sure most CEOs would agree that the past year has to have been one the most challenging on record. Le Vian has always cherished interacting with and learning from our customers. In the past, we’ve relied on international cruise ships and travelling trunk shows to sell our jewellery and to engage with our clientele. Lockdowns have naturally made all of this impossible. Yet, as a family business, we have always had the long term in mind and this clear sense of direction propels us forward. In many ways our longstanding commitment to modernisation has rendered us uniquely ready for this trying moment. The technological innovations we’ve employed, such as geofencing technology and Le Vian TV have allowed us to mitigate the negative effects of the pandemic on our business. In fact, by adapting our inperson trunk shows into virtual appointments with collectors we have hugely increased the number of appointments leading to people treating themselves or those they love to a piece or pieces of Le Vian. Currently, almost 100% of people who come on a virtual appointment buy at least one item. Facing the pandemic head-on was something we decided was important for the Le Vian brand.
We recently launched a new range of invigorating and meaningful jewellery in response to the Covid pandemic in order to soothe our collectors and inspire them to take on the future. Our new Symbols of Protection range, launched exclusively at Kay Jewelers features a panoply of different iterations and interpretations on the theme of protection. This ranges from religious symbols, like Stars of David or Crosses (our Infinity Cross has been the fastest-selling item in the collection to date), symbols of love such as hearts and symbols of unity and togetherness like our Stronger Together jewel, which shows two hands clenched together. We wanted to design jewellery that speaks to the contemporary moment. The collection has been very well received by loyalists and new buyers alike. I am personally of the opinion that one of the best ways to speak to the modern consumer and reach new audiences is through social media. Many consumers - especially Millennials and Gen Z predominantly engage with media via online platforms. these days, rather than broadcast TV, which the luxury industry has long relied on for advertising.
"Le Vian is inspired by the desire to preserve rare, underappreciated single mine gems with unique, original designs. We hope to preserve the dying art of hand workmanship in jewellery. We believe a finely crafted, lovingly made piece of high jewellery can make the special moments in life all the more valuable." - Eddie Le Vian, CEO Le Vian.
The LeVian family. CEO Eddie LeVian is 5th from the rightt. Courtesy of Le Vian.
With this in mind, we released a series of 6 and 15-second, social media-ready adverts to celebrate 20 years of our signature Chocolate Diamonds range, as well as a traditional 30-second advert for television. I firmly believe that digitising is the way forward, and it's undoubtedly true that Covid 19 has accelerated this process. We have now gathered over one million customer email addresses, a staggering feat considering that even a few years ago many of our customers didn't even use email. MM: What is the role of high jewellery? EV: While high jewellery is fundamental to our business model and our brand, it is first and foremost, our greatest passion. I developed my dedication to the jewellery industry at a very young age, when I realised that what Le Vian was doing was so much more than about jewellery itself. In fact, it was a ruby ring that belonged to my late grandmother that inspired this devotion When I saw how much it meant to family members, as a tangible way of retaining a connection to its original owner, who sadly is no longer with us, I realised that an object could hold enormous sentimental value. Jewellery is to me, the most powerful way to mark life's most precious moments; a symbol of love, of familial attachment. As far as I'm concerned there is no better way to represent these most treasured experiences and emotions than with precious gems. Their rarity, resilience and purity render them the ideal symbol of commitment, longevity, and devotion. Le Vian is inspired by the desire to preserve rare, underappreciated single mine gems with unique, original designs. We hope to preserve the dying art of hand workmanship in jewellery. We believe a finely crafted, lovingly made piece of high jewellery can make the special moments in life all the more precious. MM: Thank you for valuable insights. Do you plan fine jewellery auctions? EV: We are extremely excited to announce that we will be hosting our first ever high jewellery auction for Le Vian collectors on 15th April 2021. Over 50 Le Vian originals, deriving from a broad range of collections, will be offered to loyalists and top collectors. Prior to the event, the pieces will be debuted to top collectors via a digital catalogue. We are organising virtual assistance for interested parties and buyers before they make their silent bid. The sale will culminate in a live auction finale. We want this event to be as fun, exciting, and glamorous as possible, and as a result will be offering our pieces with a very low reserve. See more: levian.com.
Moralmoda Magazine | Fine Jewellery 41
Private Jet experience is offered since 2015, Guests can anticipate new and fascinating destinations around the world. Discerned travelers with Four Seasons will be among the first guests to board the new Airbus A321neo. Private Jet will land, for the first time, in Mexico City, Easter Island, Athens, and October 5–28, 2021, start Miami and finish in Madrid, Four Seasons Hotel.
FOUR SEASONS debuts 2021 as the most awarded luxury brand with 19 of its venues honoured by 27 MICHELIN STARS Michelin’s most prominent guides unveiled in January, honour 19 exceptional restaurants of Four Seasons with the total of 27 Michelin stars. Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris leads in Europe once again with a total of five stars across three restaurants. Le Cinq*** under the visionary leadership of Chef Christian Le Squer for sustainable culinary practices, fourseasons.com/paris Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong is brand’s global culinary leader, with an impressive 8 stars, fourseasons.com/hongkong
Haute Horlogerie and Haute Cuisine with Carl F. Bucherer Carl F. Bucherer is one of the few Swiss watch manufacturers that is still owned by its founding family. The brand seeks to spoil its collectors in innovative ways, this year with a voucher for Fine Dining Experience, available at all IGNIV restaurants – from the Grand Resort in Bad Ragaz, to Badrutt’s Palace in St. Moritz, Marktgasse Hotel in Zurich, and St. Regis in Bangkok. IGNV venues serve imaginative, award-winning dishes consisting of up to 30 components,. The voucher is valid up to end of 2022. Carl F. Bucherer will also participate in Watches and Wonders 2021. See more on carl-f-bucherer.com Moralmoda Magazine | Travel 42
15 YEARS OF PASSION AND DEDICATION
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL DES BERGUES GENEVA THE CITY'S ICONIC LANDMARK
Nestled in the storied 19th century building which was the first Geneva’s hotel, the guests of Four Seasons can expect abundant offers adapted to contemporary lifestyle and demands. As the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues Geneva celebrates 15th years of passion and dedicated Swiss hospitality, it launches new bespoke packages for guests to enjoy. From exceptional menus served at the elegant Michelin star Il Lago restaurant to bespoke treatments at the top floor Spa Mont Blanc, from the moment of check in, a new world opens to the guests from sumptuous interiors to unrivaled service by the staff and exclusive outdoor activities organized by Concierge,. The latest exclusive offer for the guests who seek ultimate privacy and lead healthy lifestyle are two Private Fitness Suites, cosy workout rooms where guests can train and keep fit while benefiting from the expertise of the Hotel’s Club des Bergues trainers. Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues Geneva has launched two concept fitness rooms, bookable to recharge the body, or nurture the mind.
Image courtesy fourseasons.com/geneva.
Four Seasons Private Jet for 2021
The Body Suite Equipped with a range of strength training and cardio workout equipment, including: - Technogym Elliptical Cross Trainer, for low-impact cardio workouts; - Technogym MyRun, a state-of-the-art treadmill with personalised training programs and instant running feedback - Free weights, for strength training; - A weight bench, for chest press exercises and squats; - Boxing gloves, to increase fitness and stamina. The Mind Suite Equipped with machinery that trains the mind to be in full control of the body and emotions, with workouts designed to build both physical and mental strength. The Suite includes the newly launched: - BonPilates Reformer Curve, which offers endless exercises to reinforce core muscles and tone the body. - Technogym Skillrow, a rower designed to improve rowing skills, increase cardiovascular fitness and boost mental resilience; - Yoga equipment, including mats and bricks; - A medicine ball, for endurance and core strength. Complimentary Alpine scrubs and facial products with detailed instructions on antiageing massage techniques are provided for guests to reset and recharge, while they enjoy a Spa-like experience following their fitness session. A QR code can be scanned to access information on how to enjoy a routine facial by Dr Burgener. Guest can also engage with the Spa team contactless using the best-in-class Four Seasons chat. Both Suites have private garden-facing terraces where guests can sit back and unwind. As part of Four Seasons' global health and safety program Lead With Care, which ensures to put the safety as the Hotel’s top priority, the Suites are equipped with air purification and filtration systems by AirOasis designed to eliminate pollutants and clear the air of any allergens, providing optimal indoor air quality.The Private Fitness Suites are available upon reservation to all Hotel guests and Club des Bergues members only and can be booked at any time of the day. For further information, contact the Hotel on +41 (22) 908 77 00 or visit fourseasons.com/geneva.
25
500 YEARS OF
JODHPUR THE INDIA'S ICONIC BLUE CITY
There were many Brahmin followers of Shiva in Jodhpur throughout the history who believed the color blue was sacred. I believe this is the most likely reasoning for the blue color. Blue paint is a mixture of limestone and copper sulfate. Limestone is a common construction material in Jodhpur and has been used in many of the palaces and homes. There are also many indigo plantations in and near Jodhpur, which could have been capable of creating the blue color to the paint. So with a few possible explanations as to why Jodhpur is blue, you can do your own investigation and draw your own conclusion. The old city circles the fort and is bounded by a wall with several gates. However, the city has expanded greatly outside the wall over the past several decades.
HISTORY OF THE BLUE CITY
Image above and opposite page: Shalini Passi at Umed Bhawan palace.
Text and Image courtesy: Shalini Passi Jodhpur is celebrated for its bountiful culture, traditions, and aesthetics. The city is popular for the History, Art and Architecture of Forts, Palaces, and Temples set in the stark landscape of the Thar Desert. Jodhpur is often called the "Sun City" for the bright, sunny weather it enjoys all throughout the year. And in order to keep the houses cool, colour Blue is used to paint the houses. Hence, the city gets the title as the "Blue City" for the vivid blue-painted houses around the Mehrangarh Fort. The fascinating blue colour of the city is captivating. There are many blue cities around the world. Chefchaouen in Morocco, Juzcar in Spain, Santorini in Greek island and Sidi Bou Said in Tunisia are some of them.
Images above: The blue aesthetics of Jodhpur. Overview from the Mehrangarh Fort.
Why are the houses blue in Jodhpur?
There are a number of valid theories that would explain the blue paint, but they are all speculation. Blue is the colour of serenity and calmness. In psychology, Blue colour is considered as one of the most soothing. The local residents of the city consider it to be sacred. There could be many prospective reasons for the use of the specific colour Blue. One of the reasons being the capacity of the colour blue to reflect the heat back, leaving the walls of the houses cool. Besides, the blue colour paints are affordable and easily available. Lord Shiva is a holy god associated with the color blue. Moralmoda Magazine | Travel 44
Jodhpur The city is named after Rao Jodha. The city’s history revolves around the Rathore Clan. Rao Jodha, the chief of the Rathore clan, is credited with the origin of Jodhpur in India. He founded Jodhpur in 1459. It was previously known as Marwar. The Rathores were driven out of their original homeland, Kaunaj, by Afghans. They fled to Pali, near to the present day Jodhpur. Rathore Siahaji married the sister of a local prince. This helped the Rathores to establish and strengthen themselves in this region. In some time they ousted the Pratiharas of Mandore, just nine kilometers from today's Jodhpur. Initially, Mandore served as their capital, but, by 1459, Rathores felt a need for a secure capital. This led to the formation of Jodhpur, the Sun City, by Rao Jodha. The Rathores enjoyed good relations with all the Mughals, except Aurangzeb. Maharaja Jaswant Singh even supported Shahjahan in his struggle for succession. After Aurangzeb's death, Maharaja Ajit Singh drove out Mughals from Ajmer and added it to Marwar (now Jodhpur). Under the reign of Maharaja Umed Singh, Jodhpur grew into a fine modern city. During the British Raj, the state of Jodhpur was the largest in Rajputana, by land area. Jodhpur prospered under the British Raj. Its merchants, the Marwaris, flourished endlessly. They came to occupy a dominant position in trade throughout India. In 1947, when India became independent, the state merged into the union of India and Jodhpur became the second-largest city of Rajasthan.
Text and images courtesy: Shalini Passi.
CHANEL MEETS NEFERTITI AND THE ANCIENT EGYPTIAN
CIVILIZATION
by Raquel-Elena Hernández Díaz
STYLE It's not the appearance, its the essence. It's not the money, it´s the education. It´s not the clothes, it´s the class. These were some of the applauded premises of Madame Coco Chanel, who not only revolutioned fashion but revolutioned women's lifes. The late designer Karl Lagerfeld, brought the best of Chanel and the ancient Egyptian civilization at the Dendur Temple, in the MET of New York. Coco Chanel was born in 1883 in Saumur, a small village and had a hard chilhood.
As an orphan, she learned how to sew in an auspice among nuns, which later proved to be a talent of great use. Gabrielle was not willing to take on the life of precariousness and submission that, due to her condition and surroundings, seemed to have been destined for her, so she transformed herself into Coco. Coco was the nickname that Gabrielle was given in the “Moulins cabaret” where she became very well known. Her failed career as a singer, allowed her to discover all her creative potential and as Coco Chanel she opened her first hat shop in Paris in 1910. Her unique and elegant hats captured the attention of the ladies, in the Parisian high society. On the “Rue Cambon” began the legend of Coco Chanel and her brand.
The avant-garde 1920s The flapper style of the 20s was the most “avant-garde” female fashion trend: young women dared to trim their skirts, listen to new musical styles and cut their hair a few inches more. Coco Chanel further modernized that vanguard with a look of comfortable clothes and masculine lines. She liberated women from the oppressive corsets and created a mythic perfume, Moralmoda Magazine No. 37 | Style 46
“Chanel number 5”, which up to today is still one of the most renowned in the world. Golden Hollywood Era icon, Marilyn Monroe affirmed, she slept only with a few drops of the mythic perfume, Coco invented. Coco Chanel wanted her unique designs to become classics. And she achieved it, thanks to the timelessness of her creations and her extraordinary sense of elegance. The arrival of the “Kaiser” Karl Lagerfeld to the creative direction consolidated the Maison founded by Coco Chanel, as a reference of style and ready-to-wear, updating each fashion piece, according to different eras. Thousands of years before Chanel reached her success, Nefertiti, was born in Egypt and grew up to be married to the powerful pharaoh Akhenaton. The name Nefertiti means “the beauty has arrived” and, although the canons of beauty from one era to another can vary, when her sculpted portrait was discovered in 1912, it was recognized as a piece of unparalleled beauty. One of the enigmas that surround Nefertiti, is what happened to her after the death of her husband. .
STYLE
One theory says that Nefertiti became the new pharaoh, under a new masculine name. It was common for women in power to adopt masculine attributes such as Queen Hatshepsut, who even wore a fake beard and men's clothes, during her reign. It is also said that Nefertiti was the mother of Tutankhamon (the famous boy-pharaoh who ruled a few years and became a part history when British explorer, Howard Carter discovered his grave in 1922 and his gold mortuary mask). All these magical elements came together in the last collection of Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel: from gold, pharaonic eyeliner
makeup, large necklaces, long tunics, hieroglyphs, and “minaudière” bags, shaped as a precious scarab. Tweed jackets were combined with golden hats, such as the regal blue crown Nefertiti used to wear. Models walked through a mysterious runway that resembled an Egyptian temple, surrounded by powerful sphinxes. The most remarkable piece was a glamourous Chanel bag, in striped gold and black leather, resembling the immense pyramids of Khufu, Khafre and Menkaure. After several millennia, Egypt, Nefertiti and Chanel meet in New York, astonishing the world, with a collection, which is a true tribute to the ancient civilization and the essence of Chanel at its finest.
by Raquel-Elena Hernández Díaz
J Dimas. 2014. Nefertiti Replica. Images opposide page courtesy of Chanel
Influence of the Ancient Egypt
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Tokyo
LOUIS VUITTON Men’s Spring 2021 collection
Virgil Abloh's research for the latest collection illuminates our understanding of the cultural appropriation and underlying mechanisms that lead to its consequences. Men’s Artistic Director Virgil Abloh explores the unlimited seas of the imagination, setting his fashion show on the sea shore, he insists on realizing his fantasy because Abloh holds it dearly as the faculty of imagining the impossible. Recognizing that what is embedded within our upbringing, and defined by societal notions where certain patterns are followed blindly from one generation to the next, with his collection Abloh proposes an alternative to rationalism that was established during the Industrialization period and colonial times: in order to break the chain — to achieve the impossible — the mind must journey into the subconscious and cross the borders of reason. The characters disembark in Tokyo, and stir up the hypnotizing parade of inclusivity and unity. Modelled by the local humanity of the port, the collection celebrates multiculturalism and the memory of a historic cross cultural exchange.
Women’s Spring-Summer 2021 Accessories
NOTTIUV SIUOL
Although the Louis Vuitton Men’s spring 2021 collection presented in Tokyo, explores the dynamics of power in society. The Women's collection puts an emphasis on the subjects that the French sociologist Bourdieu described in his theory of social stratification that deals with status and the reproduction and exercise of power.
This and opposite page all images Spring-Summer 2021 Fashion Show © Louis Vuitton – All rights reserved.
One of Bourdieu’s key contributions was the relationship between different types of such capital, including economic, cultural, social, and symbolic, (1986). The collection explores these references through different accessoires with or without the classical brand details, new styles are introduced but paired with familiar yuppie 80s looks or fresh 90s rebelious music culture symbols and prints. louisvuitton.com
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The Gübelin Gem Lab offers
Gemstone Rating
for high-quality natural coloured gemstones
Images courtesy of Gübelin..
The House of Gübelin is renowned for its high-end jewellery and gemstone expertise, but also a high level of transparency. Founded in 1854, the Swiss, family-owned firm remains relevant today with a series of exquisite collections and projects that assist industry insiders, buyers and collectors to grade their high valued gems. Recognizing the need for a standardized grading system which diamonds always had, but gemstones didn’t until now, Gübelin proposes a tool which promotes assessment of high-
quality natural coloured gemstones with the help of the Gübelin Gemstone Rating, available from the Lucerne laboratory. The Rating enables the assessment of coloured gemstones according to three key factors; quality, rarity and salience. The rating is offered for numerous varieties of highquality natural coloured gemstones, including rubies, sapphires, emeralds as well as padparadscha sapphires, paraiba tourmalines,. Collectors can learn more about gemstones, by taking the Gübelin Academy’s new online course “Coloured Gem Professional: The Basics”. It presents a broad range of knowledge from experts in Lucerne, Hong Kong and New York for online learning. The course offers exceptional insight from the curator, who manages the Gem Lab’s reference stone collection comprising more than 27,000 samples.
Dates and info on artgeneve.ch
Gübelin boutiques are found in Zürich, Lucerne, Geneva, Basel, Lugano and St. Moritz, plus the Salon Hong Kong or online at www.gubelin.com/virtual-salon.
Moralmoda Magazine No. 37 | News 50
Love declaration with
Piaget rose Named after Yves Piaget, the large blooming Piaget rose of 80 layers of petals in pink shades and fragrant hints of citrus, is an award-winning flower suitably celebrated in the new collection. Roses are a universal symbol of affection and love, and the new Piaget Rose Collection from the Swiss Maison is a celebration of love, beauty and nature. The new Piaget Rose Collection features 18K white gold Piaget Rose bracelet, necklace, sautoir, and earrings. In classic design Piaget rose petals are outlined with the finest diamonds that sparkle like sunshine on the morning dew. A Piaget Rose pendant, ring and earrings are also available in 18K rose gold. The collection references to the rich history of the Swiss Maison founded in 1874 near the French border in La Côteaux-Fées and its present headquarters, todaysurrounded by the very Piaget rose flower in the beautiful Swiss Jura.
Discover more bout Piaget Rose Collection, adorning Shiva Safai, friend of the brand on www.piaget.com Piaget Rose Earrings - 18K white gold - Set with a total of 282 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 1.48 cts) G38U0082
Image courtesy Piaget.
Piaget Rose Ring - 18K white gold,
and decided to refocus on training to improve Maison’s emblematic models. For the second edition of Bulgari, Hublot and Zenit unveil a total of xx models
Images courtesy of Mabille.
One-of-a-kind creations:
Haute Couture Week
explore the new Spring-Summer 2021 couture collections
Alexis Mabille Haute Couture SS2021 is an Odysssey that incorporates new Greek inspiration that were intriduced during the former seasons. Hellenic theme is further omnipresent in the core of the haute couture collection as the Artictic Director .Alexis Mabille explains: "Daughter of Psyche and Eros, the goddess Voluptas inspired me a woman whose beauty is striking and emotional, at once earthly and celestial. To clothe her, I let my desire for a cinematographic and poetic allure, for a moving architecture, for structured flou. To highlight her sensuality, I wanted feminine lines with my masculine twist, soft and voluptuous materials, of emblematic drapes. I worked contrasting colors with relish to reveal her multiple facets, cutting midnight and blacks with springtime pastels, floral mirages and sparkling sequins. This collection is my amorous gaze for divine women."
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The lines that he describes are inherently feminine and with the four models standing in the image above, they seem to refer to the ancient Greek architecture of Erechtheion temple, in Athens in Greece, namely the famous "Porch of the Maidens", with six draped female figures (caryatids) as supporting columns. The spring couture collection is strikingly free from embroidery yet it blends delicate materials and delicate embroidery in contrasting colours. Divinity has always played an important role in Mabille´s couture, and he is renowned for couture that has evident lightness but emits strength from a woman that wears it. His couture is admired by American artists and the Gulf buyers. Mabille is never merely creating a distant fairy tale, his woman is irrevocably contemporary and confident. Her way of dressing is only seemingly poetic and nostalgic, yet uncompromisingly powerful with an eternal elegance and allure.
All images courtesy of Zuhair Murad.
Zuhair Murad honours prima ballerina Maïa Plissetskaïa
The Zuhair Murad Pre-Fall 21 Collection opens up a universe of art and poetic hommage in honour of prima ballerina Maïa Plissetskaïa, who was so beautifully portrayed through the artistic lens of late fashion photographer Deborah Turbeville. This collection captures the synergy of performance arts such as ballet with fluid and airy monochrome gowns or colorful floor length dresses. Lebanese couturier has focused to present a stoic portrait of fine art similar to his haute couture that requires aboundsnt discipline and resources. Taking attention to flexible cuts, puff sleeves, and dreamy slits the collection articulates couture craftsmanship together with sheer black looks and dresses made of embroidered silk tulle. matic color palette that goes from red, plum and burgundy, to shiny golden and moonlight greige, with statement pieces in petrol and midnight blue. Murad’s support for the art and the artists is reciprocal. After the Beirut explosion in August 2020, in which his ateliers too were damaged, the designer initiated a global fundraising campaign for affected Beirut's communities including the Lebanese Red Cross. Zuhair Murad has yet agin made clear that the art and good will always prevail.
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Ulyana Sergeenko
anniversary Art-Déco couture collection
Ulyana Sergeenko celebrates ten-year anniversary, with an exquisite, Art-Déco, couture collection for the Spring-Summer 2021. Sergeenko‘s handmade collection pays homage to Russian and international artists of the 1920’s, New York’s Empire State Building, the Lenin Library in Moscow, Vera Mukhina’s sculpture “The Worker and the Kolkhoz Woman,” Moscow’s “Aeroport” metro station and others. The timeless beauty of the anniversary collection is a tribute to Vera Kholodnaya, the most famous Russian actress of silent film. Vera’s iconic beauty is paired with the sophistication found in the period’s art and design. Artists like the sculptor Demétre Chiparus or Roman Tyrtov—renowned though graphic artworks, inspire handwork, design and rich details on dresses. This season, the fashion house is working together with more Russian traditional crafts than ever. All the crystal details were created at the Gus Khrustalny factory, the miniature buttons and brooches for suits and dresses were hand painted by the artists at “Rostovskaya Finift”, the lace elements for evening wear were concocted by master craftswomen at “Lace Land” atelier from Yelets and the Kadomsky Veniz factory, the geometric ornaments were embroidered by Krestetskaya Stitch. Ulyana Sergeenko wearing a fur coat made of marabou feathers and hand knitted cardigan with interwoven silver beads (right). Model with a white headpiece and face mask embroidered with Yelets lace and wearing a white dress decorated with Gus Khrustalny crystals (above). Red dress, shoulder-mantle embroidered with Yelets lace (above left). All images courtesy of Maison Ulyana Sergeenko.
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© Piaget
Maison Piaget names new brand Ambasadors Piaget is irrevocably tied to the cinematic art and red carpet at film premier, either in Monaco, Moscow or Hollywood, it is thus a great pleasure to discover Piaget’s new Ambassadors. Paulina Andreeva graduated from the Moscow Art Theatre School and Fyodor Bondarchuk, who is known as the director of such blockbuster Russian films as Ninth Company, Stalingrad, Prityazhenie, and Vtorzhenie. Paulina, who debuted in 2019, as a director and screenwriter said on her new partnership with Piaget, “I'm happy to partner with Maison Piaget. The brand's jewellery has accompanied me through the most meaningful and beautiful events in my life over the years, and it's nice to know that there will be more of that to come now that our friendship has grown deeper.
Linda Farrow and Ralph & Russo
© Ralph & Russo
To me, Piaget represents elegance and style.", her male colleague added on the new partnership, “I have to admit that Piaget's jewellery is natural, organic and beautiful, fitting both into my daily life and on the red carpet. I am overjoyed to start on our shared journey. I am confident that it will be a beautiful one." said Fyodor Bondarchuk, founder and co-founder of Art Pictures Studio and Art Pictures Vision respectively. Certain is that both the new Ambasadors will keep entertaining us on screen and off screen with joint projects with Swiss hueritague Maisons. Bondarchuk a Founder of the Movie and Television School Industria, the Chairman of the Board of Trustees of the Kinotavr RSCF, a member of the Russian Academy of Cinematic Arts Nika, and member of the National Academy of Cinematic Arts and Sciences of Russia Zolotoy Orel. Being one of the most popular actors in Russian cinema with over 80 roles to his name, he was awarded the Order of Alexander Nevsky for his contribution to the development of Russian culture and art in 2018. He is a member of the Presidential Council for Culture and Arts. piaget.com
unveil SS21 capsule collection The unprecedented times that we live in have reshuffled the Paris Fashion Week calendar in more than one way. The Maison Ralph & Russo has taken the difficult decision to skip the presentation of its haute couture collection this season, due to the pandemic and restrictions in the UK. Until Ralph & Russo are back again with their next sublime couture collection, the brand has another treat in store for this spring. Watch out for a wonderful collaboration with iconic British eyewear brand Linda Farrow scheduled for laun- ching on the 8th February. The collaboration is designed together with Tamara Ralph, CoFounder and Creative Director of Ralph & Russo. Luxurious sunglasses are comprised of two timeless and glamorous styles, The Robyn and The Watson. See more on ralphandrusso.com
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The first time I saw him in person, was in a fashion show
MY GREAT FRIEND ELIO BERHANYER By Francisco José Pavón Chisbert, CEO & Editor-inChief at “Pasarela de Asfalto, Luxury Edition” Photography by Julieta E. de Zulueta Top image: Elio Berhanyer and Francisco José Pavón Chisbert, middle: Elio Berhanyer, the Viscountess of Garci-Grande and Francisco José Pavón Chisbert, viewing the serigraphs and sketches. Right: Serigraphy Tribute sketch to Cristóbal Balenciaga.
in Madrid, he was the honour guest, I was just 20 years old. I remember how I felt; just nervous and excited about the idea of being in front of one of the highest icons of the Spanish fashion: Mr. Elio Berenguer Úbeda, better known as Elio Berhanyer. But it was not until a long time later when we got a great friendship, so, let's talk about this decisive moment: I really wanted to know Elio Berhanyer in depth, his anecdotes, his personal experiences and to discover his dream world, but Elio was a person with whom it was very difficult to meet at an event, to get his contact and much less to be his friend. Elio Berhanyer was from another era, from the golden age of Spanish fashion, being a contemporary of Cristóbal Balenciaga, who even asked Elio to work next to him after discovering his immeasurable talent and creativity. However, due to my great interest in meeting the great master of the Spanish fashion, I dusted off my agenda and I contacted a great friend, the Viscountess of Garci-Grande, with whom Elio shared an amazing friendship. It was she who told Elio about me, and one day, he invited the two of us to his house to meet each other, I went there with my adorable father. It was one of the most beautiful moments that I have ever experienced in fashion, without any kind of doubt. From that moment and until Elio's death, he became another member of my family, a kind of "grandfather" to whom we used to visit. Who could have imagined that the famous Elio Berhanyer would become not only a friend but also part of my family? Elio Berhanyer, marked an era and as a result of this, he achieved great prizes and recognitions, such as the National Prize for Fashion Design or the Gold medal for Fine Arts, both in Spain. He also achieved great international fame, even dressing Queen Sofia, Ava Gardner and Cyd Charisse. The stage in which I met Elio, he was already an advanced age, so little I could enjoy him, our beautiful friendship lasted less than a decade, until on January 24, 2019, at the age of 89 his last breath expired, leaving the fashion world in mourning. There are many things that I keep from Elio, perhaps the most representative is the series of serigraphs that he made named "Tribute sketch to Cristóbal Balenciaga" and that I treasure with great affection; However, my greatest memory is thinking about the wonderful moments we spent in his house every time my father and I visited him.
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Photo: Olga Jakovleva @olgajakovleva Location: the Carré d’Or Suite at the Hôtel Metropole Monte-Carlo
"SECRET EGYPT"
All images: courtesy of Publisher Méditerranée en Lumière..
Publisher Méditerranée en Lumière presents 'Secret Egypt' book, soon available on Amazon and main book sites
"Secret Egypt" Luxurious Art book soon available for pre-orders: medlumiere@gmail.com or www.mediterranee-en-lumiere.com Art book of 300 pages ISBN : 978-2-9570080-0-1 Price : 49,- €
"Secret Egypt" tells a love story between a French woman and an Egyptian aristocrat, love for a man, love for a land, Egypt, and love for its people, the Egyptians. It is also describing birth of a son, Nazem Shah, to whom Estelle pays tribute in this book. Estelle Arielle Bouchet, author and journalist offers an initiatory path in this Egypt, where she lived and loved. She tells of a secret Egypt seen from the inside, in the manner of Lady Mary Montagu, exploring these mysterious and confined topoi, which refer us to a universe, both aesthetically pleasing and profound. One of a civilization which pharaonic avatars remain still very significant. "Secret Egypt" opens a timeless and impenetrable space, such as a rebellious citadel. First book announcing the trilogy, 'Secret Provence' and 'Secret Italy', dedicated to her youngest son Leonardo, from the French publishing company Mediterranée en Lumière setting its mission to foster exchanges between Peoples and Cultures of the Mediterranean. It is the path of the heart opening doors of the knowledge and this journey to the heart of the oriental Femininity is also yours.
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Estelle Arielle Bouchet, the author,
This is a sequence of my life as a woman. There are in the lives of women Seasons and Colors.... And also a permanency with children, with the birth of this son which gave my young life its whole centrality. Here is then the Egypt as I lived through Her in the years of 1990, through this journey which spontaneously led me to a space of which I had always dreamt as a child. While in Lyon, where I was born, in this city and its austere, studious and cold Latinity, I would gaze, as a little girl, at anatomy plates that my father meticulously drew. They would soon conjure the symbolic significance of the organs which Isis desperately attempted to recreate a scattered Osiris. I could foresee then that Egypt would play an important part in the path of my life, and would feel a deep anchor, still not knowing future yet, to this civilization ardently leaning towards the afterlife. Here also are a few figures, for the most part older persons, today having passed away, whom I met in Cairo, with enthusiasm, while I was a 20-year-old and to whom I pay tribute in this book. Last bastions of a vanished Egypt, a Secret Egypt, one of a far away Orient which disappears alongside my own balanced and nomadic path.
By Estelle Arielle Bouchet
Ante Vrban:
Croatia’s World Expo pavilion in Dubai
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Hauser & Wirth Zürich
Courtesy Michael Cinco, Dubai, UAE.
puts lockdown art on the wall
Hauser & Wirth Zürich highlights the themes of lockdown with two new exhibitions titled ‘small worlds’ and ‘Mary Heilmann. Past Present Future’. Featuring two artists, retrospectively Phyllida Barlow and Mary Heilmann, the exhibitions are also online at hauserwirth.com from 6 February until 14 May. Through these two exhibitions Hauser & Wirth puts the attention to the pandemic and the way it has reshuffled all spheres of our everyday including the art. How do we experience and continue through this period of great transition? Phyllida Barlow and Mary Heilmann are a couple of artists who have dealt with the immediate effects of the pandemic through their art. Visitors are invited to study Barlow's most recent opus, including new sculptures and drawings, all made during the first London lockdown in 2020. The exhibition, Barlow's first in Zurich coincides with the major survey show at Haus der Kunst in Munich, opening just a month later, on the 4 March 2021. Upcoming artist projects include: ‘Another Energy: Power to Continue Challenging’ at Mori Art Museum, Tokyo, opening on the 22 April. A new publication of her writings will be released by Hauser & Wirth Publishers in autumn 2021. Barlow has also designed the stage for Mozart’s ‘Idomeneo’ at the Prinzregenten theater in Munich, which will premiere in July 2021. Image left: Phyllida Barlow untitled: smallmodernart, 8; 2020 lockdown
ELITE ART EVENTS
JOAN MITCHELL CARL ANDRE SPACE LOUIS VUITTON - OSAKA
FRAGMENTS OF A LANDSCAPE SELECTED WORKS FROM THE COLLECTION 10 February - 4 July 2021
Vincent van Gogh Seascape at Saintes-Maries, Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, 1888, Oil on canvas, 44,5 × 54,5 cm, Pushkin Museum, Moscow, courtesy Foundation Louis Vuitton.
For its inauguration, the Espace Louis Vuitton Osaka presents the exhibition ‘Fragments of a landscape’, featuring the opus of two major American artists: Joan Mitchell, who began painting in the 1950s and is representative of post-war Abstract Expressionism, and Carl Andre, a sculptor who was an active member of the Minimalist movement in the early 1970s. This exhibition, part of the Fondation Louis Vuitton’s “Hors-les-murs” programme, will be showcasing previously unseen holdings of the Collection at the Espaces Louis Vuitton in Tokyo, Munich, Venice, Beijing, Seoul and now Osaka. American painter Joan Mitchell (1925-1992), who split her time between Paris and New York (where she took part in the Artists’ Club also known as the “Eighth Street Club”, est. by Conrad Marca-Relli, Willem de Kooning and Franz Kline). Her abstract expressionist art unveils her desire to faithfully translate nature counterbalanced by a subjective and violent expressive force. Mitchell refocused her paintings on the landscape in the 1980s, as evidenced by Untitled (1979) and Cypress (1980). The Fondation Louis Vuitton’s “Hors-lesmurs” programme invites American artist Carl André (1935) with his recent oeuvre which seeks intimacy with the material, rather than symbolic execution. His works melt in with their surroundings and, he asserts, have no meaning of their own and bear no trace of his intervention. Among his most famous pieces, the thin plates placed on the ground to be walked upon facilitate the desecration of the work of art: like any object, they can and should wear out. fondationlouisvuitton.fr.
THE MOROZOV COLLECTION
200 OLD MASTER PAINTINGS FOR THE FIRST TIME OUTSIDE RUSSIA 12 MAY - 10 OCTOBER 2021, PARIS
In conjunction with the public health context, the Fondation Louis Vuitton has postponed its landmark exhibition "The Morozov Collection" to May, which gives the international art audience a rather admirable time frame to explore one of the world’s foremost collections of Modern and Impressionist art, during the warmer months of the year. The highly anticipated exhibition, part of the Icons Of Modern Art series, has been originally scheduled to open during the Paris fashion Week this February. The length and the impressive size of the exhibit will not be impacted however, counting 200 masterpieces of modern French and Russian art, never before presented outside of Russia. It will be an extraordinary event even for the Fondation Louis Vuitton. Its Icons Of Modern Art series were debuted with the Shchukin Collection in 2016, which attracted nearly 1.3 million visitors. This time the visitors will be invited to a universe of Old master painters of the 19th and 20th centuries, foremost lead by Manet, Rodin, Monet, Pissarro, Lautrec, Renoir, Sisley, Cézanne, Gauguin, Van Gogh, Matisse, and Picasso. From the Russian art masters the exhibition presents Repin, Vrubel, Korovin, Golovin, Serov, Larionov, Goncharova, Malevich, Mashkov, Konchalovsky, Utkin, Saryan, Konenkov and more, all collected by the brothers Mikhaïl Abramovich Morozov (1870-1903) and Ivan Abramovich Morozov (1871-1921), who dominated Moscow’s cultural life at the turn of the 20th century. In a competition to secure the most splendid art, in much the same way as the Tretyakovs, Mamontovs, Riabouchinskys and Shchukins did, on the advice of Parisian leading art dealers – Paul Durand-Ruel, Ambroise Vollard, Georges Bernheim, Eugène Druet, DanielHenry Kahnweiler - their art acquisitions led to the international reputation of modern French painters named above. In order to present this major collection, for the first time outside Russia, the Fondation Louis Vuitton has partnered with the State Hermitage Museum (Saint Petersburg), the Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts (Moscow), and the Tretyakov National Gallery (Moscow). It also secured loans from the State Russian Museum in Saint Petersburg, the National Art Museum of the Republic of Belarus (Minsk, Belarus), the Dnipropetrovsk Art Museum (Ukraine), the MAGMA Moscow, and the private collections in Moscow of Petr O. Aven and Vladimir and Ekaterina Semenikhine. This remarkable collection of canvases that are emblematic of the French Impressionist, Post-Impressionist and Modernist movements will be joined by works by emerging artists from the Russian avant-garde, together forming an extraordinary body of artworks never exhibited before in Paris. This exhibition marks a new step in the Franco-Russian cultural friendship. It continues the close collaboration between the countries’ cultural institutions initiated in 2015, fondationlouisvuitton.fr.
THE FONDATION CARTIER POUR L’ART CONTEMPORAIN UNVEILS LANDMARK COLLABORATION PARIS & MILAN
Triennale Milano and the Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporain entered a landmark 8 year collaboration to present a rich and shared program of exhibitions and live shows. The partnership was inaugurated in 2020 with the exhibition La lotta Yanomami (The Yanomami Struggle) by the Swiss born artist Claudia Andujar (Neuchâtel, 1931). The Fondation debuts 2021 with highlight exhibitions for Paris, including the world premiere of ‘Nature’, the new film by legendary filmmaker Artavazd Pelechian, after 15 years of research and production. Commissioned in 2005 by Fondation Cartier and ZKM Filminstitut in Karlsruhe*, the oeuvre is a culmination of fifteen years of work of a director whose filmography is as infrequent as it is celebrated. The foundation also announces important exhibitions in Milan and Shanghai, fondationcartier.com.
25 SEPTMEBER 2015 | ISSUE 05
EXHIBITIONS SPRING 2021
All images courtesy Six Senses.
One-of-a-kind hotels:
Six Senses Kaplankaya explore the heart of the Turkish Riviera
Six Senses Kaplankaya offers serenity with a combination of privacy and a sense of community, at the heart of splendid Turkish nature, together with highest safety and well-being conditions. Around the world, Six Senses is recognized for conservation and regeneration. For Six Senses Hotels Resorts Spas, sustainable travel is the first step in establishing a collaborative relationship with nature. Regenerative travel takes the idea of sustainability a step further to consider a more reciprocal relationship with future ecosystems and generations. While the future of travel remains uncertain, the appeal of traveling more consciously and carefully is growing among guests. Initiated in 2012 and led by the group’s Vice President of Sustainability Jeff Smith, all properties monitor and measure their actions closely. Six Senses integrates this mantra into the entire guest journey in the hope that, through experiences and programming, it leaves a lasting impression on the traveler even on their return home. Each Six Senses resort and hotel features an Earth Lab, which promotes sustainable living in inspirational and innovative ways. The space is used to host workshops that empower guests and community members to learn about and connect more closely with the natural world. .For further information, please visit sixsenses.com
Senses Hotels Resorts Spas brings its trademark unique and quirky take on hospitality to two restored Ottoman-era mansions in Istanbul, Turkey. Six Senses Kocataş Mansions, which also incorporates next-door Sait Paşa Mansion, is located in the prosperous Sariyer district of Istanbul’s European side, famous for its “Pearls of Bosphorus” waterfront properties. The urban resort recreates historic architectural features and artifacts from the site’s former 19th century Kocataş Mansions, which were devastated in a fire years ago, paying homage to its original footprint.
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THE PRINCELY STATE OF PATIALA’S JEWELLERY
Sir Yadavinder Singh. Credit Francesca Cartier Brickell.
By Renu Choudhary, Author at The Diamond Talk Bhupinder Singh, Maharaja of Patiala (1891-1938), ruled the princely state of Patiala from 1900 to 1938. Known for their extravagant lifestyle, the Maharani and the Maharaja
Renu is a GIA certified, 4th generation diamantér and journalist from Mumbai. She writes about the rich heritage of exceptional jewelry and gemstones. Renu believes in curating value-adding and informative content for a global audience. Visit, The Diamond Talk @thediamondtalk on Instagram and her website www.thediamondtalk.in to learn more!
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wore invaluable jewels from the Treasury of Patiala, which included large and important diamond necklaces, ropes of natural pearls and head ornaments embellished with precious diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and sapphires. Perhaps the most extravagant was the famous Cartier Patiala Necklace, (left image ft.: Sir Yadavinder Singh). In the mid-1920s, The Maharaja had brought boxes of gemstones from his treasury to Cartier Paris and commissioned the jewellery Maison to make spectacular jewels such as necklaces, head ornaments, nose rings, armlets, anklets and more from the gemstones. The piece that outshines the rest was the Patiala Necklace which was styled on the traditional Indian “Panch-Lada” which means five strands, comprising five rows of diamonds and a collier covering the neck and torso, creating a rather grand effect. The Patiala Necklace was made in 1928, and was studded with 2,930 diamonds weighing over a thousand carats. It had the world's seventh-largest diamond; the size of a golf ball weighing 234.6cts "De Beers" diamond placed in the centre, which was the largest cushion-cut yellow diamond and the second largest yellow faceted diamond in the world, bought by Maharaja of Patiala from De Beers Group in Paris. The necklace was also embellished with several other large diamonds weighing 18 to 73 carats, and enhanced with Burmese rubies. It was so extravagant that it couldn't have gone unnoticed even when Maharaja sat on his elephant. Soon after the British Raj was abolished in India, it disappeared from the Royal Treasury of Patiala around 1948. The "De Beers" diamond appeared in 1982, at a Sotheby's Geneva auction. In 1998, sixteen years after the auction, a part of the necklace was found at a local jewellery shop by Cartier associates in London, with the majority of the large diamonds missing. Cartier purchased the necklace with the missing stones, and replaced them with simulated stones, and mounted a replica of the original "De Beers". Meanwhile this replica necklace is the subject of a documentary by Doc & Film International. Looking at this image of the necklace we can get a glimpse of the grandeur and extravagance of the past, the lost glory of the Maharaja of Patiala. It is assumed if the necklace was still in its original form it would be valued at over USD30 mio. Read more on Cartier‘s magnificent creations for the royals in 'The Cartiers' (2019) by Francesca Cartier Brickell, www.the-cartiers.com, Instagram/Twitter: @creatingcartier.
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After over three years of waiting, the PRADA Cup starts on January 15 with the three Challengers competing. The PRADA Cup consists of 17 racing days starting with a multiple Round Robin format where the three Challengers - Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli, New York Yacht Club American Magic and INEOS TEAM UK face off each other for four times. The team with the most points at the end of the Round Robins moves directly to the PRADA Cup Final, while the remaining two teams compete in a best of seven wins, head-to-head, Semi-Final between the 29th January and the 2nd February. The PRADA Cup Final, between the 13th and the 22nd February, is a best of thirteen race series where the first team to reach seven wins will win the exquisite PRADA Cup trophy and be awarded the rights to be the Challenger for the 36th America’s Cup presented by PRADA and to race the Defender Emirates Team New Zealand.
To win the America’s Cup, first you have to win the PRADA Cup
21th of February 2021 the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli sailed to victory in the PRADA Cup Final. The Italians winning the Series 7-1 over INEOS TEAM UK, now move onto the America’s Cup Match, the ultimate goal four years in the making, starting in 12 days time. For the second time in their six attempts, Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli have their name included in the exclusive list of just 36 challengers in 170 years that have made it to the America’s Cup itself. As happened 21 years ago, the Defender Emirates Team New Zealand will face Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli on the Hauraki Gulf to decide who will win the oldest trophy in international sport.Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli Team officially became the Challenger of Record of the 36th America’s Cup. The team, established in 1997 by Patrizio Bertelli, CEO of the PRADA Group, is now at their sixth attempt to win the America’s Cup and is led by two times Cup winner Skipper and Team Director Max Sirena. © COR36/ Studio Borlenghi. All images courtesy of Cor36.
New York Yacht Club American MagicChallengerFormed in October 2017 by Bella Mente Racing, Quantum Racing and the New York Yacht Club, American Magic represents a joint vision to win the America’s Cup.The team brings together two highly successful racing programs with one of the foremost yacht clubs in the world. The name, American Magic, is a nod to the New York Yacht Club’s storied America’s Cup history; a combination of the boat the trophy is named for, and the first boat to defend it. Challenger INEOS TEAM UK was formed in 2018 to bring the America’s Cup home to Britain and will race for Royal Yacht Squadron Racing that is regarded as one of the most prestigious yacht clubs in the world. Before relocating to New Zealand, the team was based in Old Portsmouth, led and backed by INEOS Founder and Chairman, Jim Ratcliffe. Sir Ben Ainslie, a previous America’s Cup winner (AC34) and the most successful Olympic sailor of all time is the Team Principal and Skipper.
HOW TO WATCH GLOBALLY Fans of the America's Cup all around the world will be able to enjoy coverage via all forms of media on every screen in 2021. Alternatively just connect your device to Internet as the races will be streamed live on Youtube, Facebook and americascup.com in almost every country around the world without the need to download an app. americascup.com will provide all the live contents including on board camera footage, Virtual Eye graphics, behindthe-scenes storytelling and more.
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The aluminum hulls and composite structure & superstructures are designed to travel the world. This cruising yacht evolves at a cruising speed of 12 knots with a maximum speed of 18 knots. As comfortable in coastal navigation as in ocean navigation, 4Ever has a transatlantic autonomy. All images courtesy of JFA Yachts.
JFA Yachts unveils:
Long Island 78’ Power The architecture of JFA produced boats allows for many dream destinations as it’s 85’ sailing Long Island catamarans proved in recent years. They sailed to Antarctica, West Coast, the Pacific Ocean, the Baltic Sea or even the Middle East. Now with the delivery of the Long Island Power 78’. 4Ever, the 1st Power catamaran version in the Long Island range the travelling becomes a whole new experience, with amazing sea sight wherever you are on board. The very new model is about to leave Concarneau, its home port. First destination will be Mediterranean Sea, then a crossing to West Indies before reaching Pacific, the owners’ dream destination. Beyond an uninterrupted ocean view, the catamaran features a natural stability, equally navigating and mooring, allowing to live on board in comfort and serenity. The deck surface adds a lot of living spaces. The Long Island Power 78’ main deck offers a lounge area and a sea water bath, providing a safer alternative to sea bathing. This relaxing space is directly connected to the saloon, creating a continuity and blurring the lines between interior and exterior. This combination brings a breathable and smooth circulation on board, multiple spaces can be enjoyed in various ways, creating a peaceful retreat or a welcoming spot for a family or friends gathering. The main aft deck is divided between a lounge, a dining area with a table for 8 persons and sunpads on both sides.
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Aboard 4Ever, the association of the interior layouts entirely designed and made to measure by JFA Yachts and the presence of furnitures from renown brands (Valdenassi, Tribu, Moroso, Poltrona Frau, Cassina, Berto Salotti) make this first Long Island Power particularly personal and endearing. This power catamaran offers boundless possibilities. Features of Long Island 78’ Power: Overall Length: 23.72 m – Waterline Length: 23.06 m - Beam: 11.17 m - Draft: 1.24 m - Displacement: 54 T light Naval architect: Marc Lombard Yacht Design Group Interior designer: Darnet Design Engines: 2x 500hp Cummins – Range 3 400 Nautical millesGensets: 2x 17.5 kW Onan Construction : Aluminium hulls, Composite deck, bulkheads and superstructure Cruising speed: 12 knots - Maximum speed: 18 knots (half loaded)
The upper deck has been rethought as an enclosed wheelhouse and a “Portuguese deck”, offering an added innovative space for a boat of this type and size. This space, dedicated to navigation, provides relaxation and calm, where the owner can enjoy the 360° view. A long seat separates the main aft deck from the hydraulic platform.It can be fully protected from disturbed weather, creating an additional indoor space. Discover more on JFA-Yachts.com
The World’s Most Valuable Race
the Saudi Cup Second Running February 1920 2021 was a celebration of Saudi culture
(Left) Abdullah Al Jumah in a custom contemporary ‘Dagla’ design by HINDAMME made from a deep midnight blue velvet devouré fabric paired with a traditional gemstone adorned belt, blending both past and present within its aesthetic. The Dagla is a traditional robe worn on formal occasions in various regions of Saudi Arabia. (Right) Mohammed Khoja in own design featuring ornate print of ‘Al Qatt Al Aseeri’ patterns under a sheer wool black and gold traditional ‘Bisht’. The ‘Al Qatt Al Aseeri’ are patterns native to Saudi’s Abha region typically drawn by women to decorate the formal salons. The ‘Bisht’ is a prestigious traditional outer cloak that typically features a wide metallic thread trim. Courtesy of HINDAMME.
Puts The Kingdom on Global Calendar
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Travel
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Haute couture
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Time pieces
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Dubai guide
1 Full Flat pips Mishriff at the post Samba This February Saudi Arabia hosted a series of internatiSaudi Derby CREDIT Neville Hopwood onal horse racing events culminating with the showpiece Saudi Cup worth $20 million. A vision of the country’s leadership made reality by Jockey Club of Saudi Arabia (JCSA) Chairman, Prince Bandar Bin Khalid Al Faisal, the Saudi Cup is a pioneering event in the country’s sporting and social history. It represents a meeting of people, artists, athletes, aristocrats, investors and more who participate on a global stage where the best horses in the world compete for some of the largest purses in racing.
Among many guests attending the Saudi Cup were, notable Saudi lawyer and writer Abdullah Al Jumah in a custom contemporary ‘Dagla’ design by HINDAMME, seen above with Saudi Fashion designer Mohammed Khoja, founder of HINDAMME. Khoka is wearing one of his own label’s jackets, a neoprene bomber jacket adorned with a contemporary and ornate print of ‘Al Qatt Al Aseeri’ patterns under a sheer wool black and gold traditional ‘Bisht’. Moralmoda Magazine | Elite Events 69
www.thesaudicup.com.sa Twitter: TheSaudiCup
Bereve
the watchmaker of most complicated Grand-Feu dials The Swiss watchmaker Bereve is an independent brand of Haute Horlogerie, which fosters all the values of the Swiss watchmaking and family tradition. Its true essence of hand made Bereve watch, the collector can expect unique Swiss timepiece hand made without compromise. The handcraft of the dials and the manufacturing of all the components reveal the high quality of its 100% Swiss Made timepieces. The company has a long experience in designing and the “Grand Feu” dials (including the Champlevé, Coisonné, Plique Jour, Miniature techniques). Bereve combines different techniques, such as Micromosaic in spun enamel, with the most precious and unique decorative stones and minerals in the world. Bereve's 50-year-old savoir-faire enabled the company to enhance its creativity and go beyond the limits of regular handcrafting techniques. We asked Bernardo to elaborate on the brand's know-how, bereve.ch. BERNARDO: We create Enamel Grand Feu dials watches, the true Grand Feu enamel. This is the way we also create an emotional message combining métier d`art and high-quality Swiss Made components. The Grand Feu technique is a very intimate family know-how inherited and kept from generation to generation, and my mother could be named as an example of it. She has been making enamel dials for about 50 years. MM: In the 2019 Grand Feu collection you gather exemplary precision? BERNARDO: Indeed, precision is fundamental as it affects the most important part of Bereve dials, and if you want precision you need time. The watches you saw at Baselworld 2019 requires not only months of research but also between 80 and 150 hours of work for each dial if you want a result without mistakes. MM: What is the essence of handmade Bereve watch, the client can expect one of a kind Swiss timepiece without compromise? BERNARDO: In the family we do have one common thought which tell us do not sell anything which is against your principles or does not reach standards you have set. The unique enamel Grand Feu dial is undoubtedly our hallmark, and therefore compromises are not part of our vocabulary. There are two or three watchmakers in the world able to produce handcrafted enamel Grand Feu dials in this high quality. Moralmoda Magazine | Watches 70
"The unique enamel Grand Feu dial is undoubtedly our hallmark, and therefore compromises are not part of our vocabulary. There are two or three watchmakers in the world able to produce handcrafted enamel Grand Feu dials in this high quality." Bernardo, CEO Bereve.
About 15 instances of firing the enamel, oven temperature between 750° and 850° Celsius, individual cells manually worked and bent on a gold or silver base, engraving procedures and many other little secrets do not leave any room for compromises. MM: You mentioned two or three other watchmakers with the same quality? BERNARDO: Yes indeed. In Switzerland there are three of us, enamelers, creating this sort of artistic dials for the watch industry. If I have to name renowned watchmakers with in-house production, and a good quality, I say Jacquet Droz and Ulysse Nardin. At Baselworld 2019 there was only another watchmaker presenting Grand Feu dials, namely Patek Philippe.
MM: Bereve is not only focused on a unique dials, but on inest luxury watch? BERNARDO: The dial is the hallmark of a BEREVE timepiece, but a luxury watch is not all just about the dial. Bereve cases are designed and manufactured in La Chaux des Fonds, automatic movements based on the Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier VM-3002 calibre, with an impressive power reserve over 50 hours, and anti-reflective sapphire crystal. This is BEREVE Timepieces, ancient techniques combined with high-end watchmaking. MM: What has Baselworld 2019?
happened
since
BERNARDO: At Baselworld 2019 we had the opportunity to introduce our first collection to the international audience and encountered many positive and interesting feedbacks. Afterwards, we gained international acknowledge through the GPHG. Notwithstanding the international situation we did not lose our passion and have kept on doing what we can do best: improve our creativity. We have created some thematic dials like Yeux du Desert, Year of the Rat and recently Year of the Ox for the Chinese market. MM: What do we have to expect from Bereve Timpieces? BERNARDO: There are many projects due this year. We are introducing a new tonneau case, finalizing a chronograph and a woman watch is on our table. Within a few weeks, we will create a section on our website, completely dedicated to our "unique piece" references. MM: I think you have heard that the Craftsmanship of Mechanical Watchmaking and Art Mechanics has received UNESCO Heritage Status, what is your opinion? BERNARDO: Yes, and I was glad to hear it. I think it is a kind of award for many independent watchmakers, for sheer time invested, skills and craft difficulty. It is a praise for the craftsmanship of people like the engraver, the enameler, the designer, and many others. Eventually, it is a way to keep all of what those people have done in a book of watchmaking history. And I see it as a praise for my family as well.
Right: REF. F1.BV02.B5B 01.Y.W1DLI MITED SERIES NUMERED: 5 Pieces
Below: REF.A1.BV0 2.02.X1.W1: 300 Pieces © BEREVE.
Right: REF. C1.BV02.11.X2.U1LIMITED SERIES NUMERED: 8 PiecesE.
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"Protect UNESCO's World Marine Heritage thanks to scientific research" Monaco puts Ocean art on the wall
from January 07 to March 01, 2021 Principality of Monaco highlights the themes of clean oceans and sustainability with the new exhibitions titled "Protect UNESCO's World Marine Heritage thanks to scientific research ”. the exhibit is made up of 21 photographs from the Monaco Explorations missions, displayed at the gates of the St-Martin gardens in Monaco and online at hauserwirth.com This exhibition is part of the United Nations Decade for Ocean Science in the service of sustainable development (2021-2030), the preparation of which is coordinated by the UNESCO Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission (IOC). The launch of this major operation was marked on January 28, 2021 by a meeting of high-level supporters and in the presence of H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco.
Images from the inaguration of the exhibition: H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco. 2021. © Courtesy of INSTITUT OCEANOGRAPHIQUE - FONDATION ALBERT IER - PRINCE DE MONACO MUSEE OCEANOGRAPHIQUE | AVENUE SAINT MARTIN MC 98000 - MONACOMAISON DES OCEANS | 195 RUE SAINT-JACQUES 75005 - PARIS
Galerie Chantal Crousel Paris unveils the spring art programme Mimosa Echard's art is presented through a range of mediums from fabrics to water and recycled materials, exploring areas of contact and contamination between the organic objects and consumer items. Image right: Mimosa Echard, Untitled, 2021. Courtesy of the artist and Galerie Chantal Crousel, Paris. Photo: Martin Argyroglo. Far right: I Still Dream of Orgonon, 2016. Courtesy of the artist and Galerie Chantal Crousel, Paris. Photo: Florian Kleinefenn.
and its 40th anniversary book
Galerie Chantal Crousel hosts French artist Mimosa Echard’s first solo exhibition titled, Numbs, which presents a selection of her new works. Mimosa Echard’s practice is inspired by the creation of hybrid eco-systems where the living and the non-living, the human and the non-human coexist. The Palais de Tokyo, Paris will host Erchard's solo exhibition in summer 2022. Her works are among others in the collections of CNAP-Centre national des arts plastiques, Musée d'Art Moderne de Paris, Fondation Louis Vuitton, Fondation d’entreprise Galeries Lafayette, Sadami Art Foundation, Ettore Fico Foundation, IAC Villeurbanne, FRAC Corse, and FRAC Ile-de-France.
"Swear That You'll Play", the 40 years anniversary book Marking the 40th anniversary of Galerie Chantal Crousel, this extensive publication of over 700 pages looks back at the history of the gallery, considered as a major actor in the contemporary art scene, both in France and abroad. It does so by going through a period of nearly four decades, describing the creation of a gallery, the creation of several visions, that of a long exhibition, thus reaffirming the place of the gallerist’s work in the recent history of art. EXHIBITION, Numbs, FROM MARCH 6 TO APRIL 10, 2021 BOOK, Swear That You'll Play, Is-Land Édition 10 RUE CHARLOT, PARIS, and online CROUSEL.COM
www.zenith.com
Courtesy zenith.com
Food Crowd Platform by Salmeen Al Ameri, CEO at Al Dahra Agriculture.
Moralmoda Magazine talks to Mr Salmeen Al Ameri, CEO at Al Dahra Agriculture, about the launch of Food Crowd; the first UAE owned grocery delivery platform focusing on sustainable packaging, community values and promoting the nation’s food security vision. MM: What is the background to the new Food Crowd online platform? Salmeen Al Ameri: Food Crowd is a fresh food and groceries delivery platform launched in October 2020. The company is one Al Dahra Group’s recent ventures. Headquartered and based in the UAE, Al Dahra is a multinational food commodities and supply chain management company catering to more than 45 markets in the Middle East and across the world. By providing products directly from producers and growers within the same day, Food Crowd will be using reusable packaging and offering contactless delivery. The platform also places emphasis on community building through a designated Community Page (https://blog.foodcrowd.com/) with curated recipes and free value oriented educational content. MM: Why was the platform founded? SA: The last few years has seen a surge in fresh food and grocery delivery platforms in the UAE. Food Crowd aims to serve this space in a never before way by focusing on 3 key aspects: community, sustainability, and freshness. Food Crowd is the UAE’s first food and grocery delivery platform with an emphasis on community. MM: How do you ensure high-quality farm to home platform throughout your supply chain? SA: Food Crowd is based on the concept of “fresh from the farm, right to your doorstep”. Our farms in the UAE and other countries like Serbia, Egypt and Morocco, are well established, and have been serving the UAE with high quality products for a long time. Food Crowd is a community-based platform under the umbrella of Al Dahra ventures; one of the largest supply chain management companies in the region. Our storage facilties, supply chain process, along with the same day delivery options ensures that the customer receives the freshest of produce. MM: Why is it important for you to work with local farms and experts in agriculture from Abu Dhabi? SA: The UAE is still in its nascent stages of developing its agriculture industry
and Al Dahra has been at the forefront of it for many years. When we think about a sustainable, large scale agriculture industry, the Middle East might not be the first to come to mind; but thanks to increased investments from local and international companies and others; there Is a determined focus in overcoming food and water scarcity issues. Diminishing ground water reserves, largely arid conditions and low levels of water reusage are all factors that are driving the fast-paced growth of innovative sustainable agricultural methods and technologies, or ‘AgTech’ in the UAE and wider GCC. Perhaps the most significant reminder that the UAE needs to embrace big change quickly on the agricultural front is that it currently still imports 87% of all its food, while at the same time food makes up 55% of all its produced waste which is already at unsustainable levels. With the convenience of a delivery platform, Food Crowd aims to fill this gap in the market and promote locally grown food alongside it’s variety of internationally sourced food. MM: How does Food Crowd enhance a consumer’s shopping experience? SA: Food Crowd offers same day delivery for all orders, and this is also part of ensuring quality, efficiency and customer satisfaction in supply of goods. Customers are also encouraged to be part of its “crowd community.” MM: Why is sustainability an important aspect of Food Crowd? SA: Sustainable production and consumption is a growing global concern and with the advent of ag-tech technologies; we are much better equipped than ever before, in creating a sustainable production and consumer culture. Growing global issues in food waste, non-degradable waste, climate change, air pollution have all contributed to the need for a global sustainable model. UAE imports 87% of its total food supply, and with so much food being brought in expensively from abroad, only to have so much of it wasted, AgTech is fast becoming an essential part of the UAE’s drive to change a long-established status quo of unsustainability around food.
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. MM: How do you differentiate Food Crowd from similar platform? SA: With that being said, as a UAE owned brand, Food Crowd aims to play an important role, in line with UAE’s National Future Food Security Strategy (2018). Food Crowd will be the first UAE owned grocery delivery platform focusing on sustainable packaging, community values and promoting the nation’s food security vision.
"UAE imports 87% of its total food supply, and with so much food being brought in expensively from abroad, only to have so much of it wasted, AgTech is fast becoming an essential part of the UAE’s drive to change a long-established status quo of unsustainability around food." - Salmeen Al Ameri
CEO Al Dahra Agriculture
Salmeen Al Ameri is the Chief Executive Officer at Al Dahra Agriculture where he is responsible for all commercial and operational functions, leading, turnaround and growth plan implementations. He counts with global experience on strategy, portfolio monitoring and corporate development. Furthermore, Salmeen is a board member in various companies such as Agthia and Agility Abu Dhabi. Salmeen holds a master’s degree in Management from Paris-Sorbonne University in Abu Dhabi and a bachelor’s degree in Business Administration from United States of America.
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Courtesy Watches&Wonders/Piaget.
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