featuring four of the planet ’ s finest wave zones:
11
charterboats +
12
indonesia, mentawais, pacific, maldives
camps+resorts +
76
surfspots
when to go, where to stay, what to expect, how much will it cost?
and much more...
Andaman Sea
C HE N N A I KOCHI
C O L O M BO
Maldives*
Flying to the best surf in Asia, Europe and beyond. Fly direct to KL then on to heaps of great breaks throughout Asia, the UK and France. Best of all, you can bring your board for just $35. Book now at airasia.com Holiday package deals at airasiago.com
HONG KONG
Hainan Island
CLARK Philippines
HO C HI M I N H C I T Y PHUKET
BANDA AC E H
K UAL A LUMPUR
PADA NG Nias
Sumatra
JAK A RTA
BA L I
BANDUNG
Krui
AIR AI A IIR R11117 R 172 72 7 2 RH RHP R HP
Mentawai Islands
advertising National Sales Manager Scott Chapman (07) 5520 9167 scott@morrisonmedia.com.au Sales Co-ordinator Heidi Stewart (07) 5520 9131 heidi@morrisonmedia.com.au QLD Advertising & mag manager Ash Witty 0433 795 595 ashley@morrisonmedia.com.au NSW Advertising ASH WITTY 0433 795 595 ashley@morrisonmedia.com.au VIC Advertising HAYDEN JARVIS (03) 9214 2705 haydenj@morrisonmedia.com.au
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contsruction editor nick lawrence nick@ndlawrence.com extra research RYAN JONES ryanj@morrisonmedia.com.au digi work tom dawson tom@surfinglife.com.au design mac monkey 4220 straighttothefolio@mm.gov.org PUBLISHER CRAIG SIMS craig@morrisonmedia.com.au
disclaimer The features inside the ASL Travel Bible have been paid for by the operators: the articles have been researched by ASL, with the bulk of the information gleaned through exhaustive interviews with operators, employees and guests. The Travel Bible will be an annual publication, and while this year we are presenting four surf zones, in future years we will add other regions. If you’re an agent or surf travel operator and we missed you this year: we’re sorry! Contact us (details at left) to be in next year. Prices quoted by operators and agents are all subject to change due to currency fluctations, fuel surcharges etc. All prices are in Australian dollars unless indicated otherwise, and indicate the baseline price. Sincere thanks to Scardy, Shaun, Stu, Hutch and Jamie – gentlemen and scholars of all things travel – for their help with the forthcoming ASL tropical travel app.
on the cover Is there a more sublime pleasure than being ferried back to the mothership after a late session? Nah, we didn’t think so. pic courtesy: quest 1
this pic Josh Dowthwaite travelled from his Surfer’s Paradise home on the Gold Coast to find the Real Thing in Sumbawa. pic: shieldsy
introduction
04 The things to be learnt from a life on the road…
region1
indonesia
10 Just Dreaming 12 Banyak Island Lodge 14 Banyak Islands Surf Charter 16 The Chillhouse 18 Ombak Indah Losmen 20 Sri Noa Noa Charters 22 Quest One Surf Charters 24 Indo Directory
u r a happy ending every time d e t o26 ASL’s wandering physician Mike Frood regales us with some medical mustdos (and must don’ts) for keeping everything under control on your exotic adventures
region2
mentawais*
30 Indies Trader IV 32 Arimbi 34 Surging Waters 36 Barrenjoey 38 Togat Nusa Retreat 40 Kandui Island Villas 42 Macaronis 44 Mentawais Directory
*yeah, we know the Ments is in Indo, but she gets her own zone ’cos she’s specy alright?!
u r lab-rat living d e t o48 There are as many ways to earn a crust and save for surf sojourns, as there are ways to skin a cat. It all comes down to what you’re prepared to live with.
region3
pacific
52 PNG Frontier Surfaris 54 Matanivusi Eco Beach Resort 56 Tavarua Island Resort 58 Namotu Island Resort 60 Pohnpei Surf Club 62 Pacific Directory
u r up the creek, with a paddle
d e to
contents
66 There’s plenty to see out there on the open road and it doesn’t always have to be only about the waves. Roland Prianto takes you on a trip with a difference.
region4
maldives
70 Ocean Dancer 72 Liquid Destination 74 Holiday Inn Kandooma Resort 76 Pacific Directory
it’s all online at www. surfinglife.com.au/travelbible asl travel bible 003
Two flights, an overnight layover and bumpy bemo ride later and all Mick Fanning wants to do is take to the air again. pic: shieldsy
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intro
what are you
looking for?
Ever since the dawn of time man has travelled in one way or another. Sometimes with purpose. Sometimes for the sake of wandering. As humanoids, we’ve come a long way from roaming simply to hunt, gather food or find shelter. That said, there are still people out there with a nomadic mindset deeply ingrained in their psyche; people searching out new and barely-explored areas of the world, setting up shelter and “colonising” far away islands so others (namely you) can come see and surf these remote places for yourself. Indeed, there are more than a few of ’em, profiled and awaiting you within the folds of this mag. So why do we travel? What are we expecting to achieve out of it all? Hell, it’s a question almost as broad as Dwight Howard’s shoulders, but there are a few common motivations that go beyond our base surfer’s instinct of “I wanna get shacked off my face, man”. It probably starts with a dream. And dreams usually stem back to some kind of hope; an element of possibility that there’s something out there on the road which could take your current existence to another level. A spiritual enlightenment, brothers! Hallelujah! It could also be a whole lot less complicated; long, rifling, warmwater barrels, tropical paradise and the spicy tang of foreign environments. Foreign transport, foreign languages, exotic foreign women…
Some travel to inspire others; to document these places and show you what you’re missing out on – to show you what’s OUT THERE – all to be trialled from the comfort of your day bed at home. Vids, DVDs, magazines like this one. Once you’ve had a taste of the radness life on the road can bring, you’ll generally want to share what you’ve seen and we’re certainly all living in a great age to be doing just that. Facebook, Flickr, the Interweb as a whole; it’s never been easier to spread the good word.
As much as it may be one of the world’s most clichéd clichés, it’s about the journey of getting there sometimes too. Although long haul flights ain’t never a whole heap of fun, the overnight boat ride and the pangs of anticipation do bring waves of excitement with ’em – especially knowing you’ll be waking up the next day to waves after a long stint in transit. As you look out the window of your car/boat/ place, there’s no better place to let your mind unravel; something you probably rarely get a chance to do at home. Inventing stories about the people you pass, contemplating life like a modern day Aristotle. Strokin’ your chin like a man wrestling with the meaning of life itself…
Often – no matter what you approach your travels looking for – you’ll end up learning and experiencing things that you’d never have thought of, in the world as well as in the waves. Patience (flight layovers), perseverance (waiting for the tide to drop so those fat walls start grinding), respect (for Mother Nature when those same grinding pits slice you up on the reef). Probably as much as anything, you’ll learn to be gracious. As surfers especially, it’s hard not to feel an overwhelming sense of gratitude at being privy to this life we get to live. One minute you’re riding over ocean swells on a boat, the next you’re riding those same ocean swells as they meet with shallow reefs and shorelines; back to that base instinct of wanting to get “shacked of ya face, man”.
Some of us travel because we’re curious. Variety be the spice of these perpetually restless cats’ lives, and no matter how perfect things are at home – the waves, the living conditions, the ladies – there’s a permanent itch they can’t scratch until they find ’emselves back out on the open road in a new place. Maybe it’s the colours of life in foreign and exotic places. The seasonal differences. The strange customs. Who knows what makes these crazies tick?
And whatever your reasons to travel, it doesn’t get better than that.
Nick Lawrence – Travel Bible Ed
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Desert Point. Glory Be. pic: ord/cameraelectronic.com
GREENLIT LEFTS, NASI GORENG, TERIMAH KASIH, THE BOOTIES DILEMMA, DISTANT VOLCANIC PEAKS.. asl travel bible 008
indonesia
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time in transit
surf season stats
perfect match
culture conscious
open door
in the air: Sydney to Jakarta 8hrs on the ground: Jakarta to Anyer 3hrs on the water: Overnight sail, wake up to first break
prime time: April/May/June/July in season: March/August/ September/October surf trips operate from march to october
Plenty of guys come back for more. Others get a taste of true One Palm or Apocalypse and they’ve had their fix. These waves can scare some people, but don’t fret! There are plenty of other waves in the area to cater for every level of surfer.
Local villages on surrounding mainland and islands are more than happy to have guests visit and show them their way of life. It’s always advised to show respect; cover up and don’t drink alcohol on their land.
Girlfriends and wives have often come on past trips – they suntan, fish, dive, explore and shoot photos. Youngsters often come on father and son trips too. Owen Wright jumped on board with his dad and younger brother a couple of years back.
get your grits
sustainable shredding
cast away
what’s new
The galley boasts a mix of Chinese, Indonesian and Western dishes to keep any palate pleased. Their specialty dish is straight out of the water – fresh Tuna or Spanish Mackerel – with the perfect mix of wasabi, vinegar and beer (of course). All food, drink and meals are included in the cost, and guest’s booze requests can be accommodated (or purchased in Anyer) before they set sail.
All rubbish and waste is kept on board and removed back at Anyer Harbour. Any guests that take part in land/ island visits are encouraged to make as little impact as possible. John and the crew know the fragility of this rare, pristine environment and as the Just Dreaming crew are the only ones around, they like to keep their presence close to invisible.
Say “hola” to Spanish Mackerel; a 35kg monster once jumped on-board without a hook in its mouth! Guest catches are regularly cooked up that day and you can lap up some instant sashimi if you get on to Tuna or Mackerel.
Just Dreaming has changed the flag as requested by the Indonesian Government. This has given JD full access to all bereaks around the area
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JUST DREAMING
It’s a combination of experience and raw wave potential that makes Just Dreaming a boat adventure not to be missed. With world-renowned spots like Apocalypse and One Palm Point on the itinerary, it’s barrels ahoy on this exclusive expedition that may well leave you in a surfed-out stupor. The stats Just Dreaming has been navigating Indonesian waters for almost 20 years, sailing up from Bali in 1991 and becoming the first charter in the area. John and his crew know this area like no one else and they’re currently the only charter vessel sailing in and around Panaitan Island, getting their guests well and truly barrelled.
Tailor-made for you? You’re pining to set sail on the open seas, chasing down a mix of fast, heaving slabs and tropical fun. You wouldn’t mind throwing some uncharted territory in there too and garnering a tale or two that few others could hatch or match. West Java’s a unique area and a less-frequented part of the Indo coast, after all.
Gimme the basics, real quick Eight guests is perfect, and although they can accommodate more, eight is the most comfortable on the boat and in the water. As it is a remote area, JD comes with all safety equipment: Satellite phone, GPS depth sounder, flares, EPIRB, VHS/HF/27meg radios, life raft, life jackets, safety harnesses and man-overboard equipment. Also a zodiac tender with outboard.
bragging rights Did you see the latest Hot 100 DVD Trip with Freestone, Crews, Cathels, Standlick, Bowen and Parkes? Those perfect lefthand barrels, rippable right-hand runners and playful beachies were all surfed after jumping overboard from the deck of Just Dreaming!
extra action
expedition essentials
Krakatoa is a favourite and one of the only easily accessible live volcanoes for a surf charter in Indonesia. Bush walking, snorkelling, fishing, beach cricket and football are all regularly partaken in too.
hardware: A normal short-board, a mid-sized board and a larger board for the paddle and drop at One Palm and Apocalypse. Ding repair kit too; the reefs can pack a punch! non-surf: A good book, iPod and a sense of adventure! medical: Travel insurance is compulsory. Helicopter and fast boat are available for evacuation, dependent on extent of injury and weather conditions. No mosquitoes on the boat, although hepatitis/tetanus shots are a good idea. Other travel injections and medication are up to the individual, none are currently recommended.
5
of the best
waves you want to ride
One Palm Point In short? A shallow and relentless, barrelling left. Wave of your life material and can be a scary, dredging beast when bigger. Heaviness? Can be up to 10/10 depending on size. Fun? 10/10 if you’re up for it. Crowds? Mostly Just Dreaming guests only. Suits? Experienced surfers. SS/Apocalypse In short? A right-hand pit comparable to Backdoor Pipe, but longer. Can also be a scary, dredging beast when bigger. Heaviness? Can be up to 10/10 depending on size. Fun? 9/10 Crowds? Just Dreaming guests only. Suits? Upper intermediate to advanced surfers. Napalm In short? A smoking left that makes for goofy-foot paradise. Heaviness? 7/10 Fun? 10/10 Crowds? Just Dreaming guests only. Suits? Intermediate to experienced surfers.
where do I sign? Best bet is www.justdreamingsurfsafaris.com and through their friendly agents, Surf Travel Co, Perfect Wave and Freeline Surf. Cost is approximately AU$150 a day, and there are a combination of 10 and 12 day trips offered throughout the season. (Cost does not include international airfares, or beers and extra snacks).
Illusions In short? A grinding right-hander with a great barrel. Not as hectic as Apocalypse or One Palm, but just as perfect. Heaviness? 6/10 Fun? 8/10 Crowds? Just Dreaming guests only. Suits? Everyone. Pussy’s In short? A long left that goes forever. Picks up any swell and turns it into an incredibly playful wall, perfect for a fun session. Heaviness? 5/10 Fun? 9/10 Crowds? Just Dreaming guests only. Suits? Everyone.
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all photos: brandon ancier
lolok point gunturs
time in transit
surf season stats
perfect match
culture conscious
open door
in the air: Oz to Singapore 7hrs Singapore to Medan 1hr on the ground: Overnight stay in Medan in the air: Medan to Singkel 1hr on the water: Singkel to lodge 1-2hrs in speedboat, 3hrs in wooden boat.
prime time: May to Sept in season: Nov to Feb can get waves: year ’round The team is adamant that November to February offers great conditions, with only lodge guests surfing the entire Banyak chain. No charter boats operate in this time.
They’ve only been running a coupla years, but already 15% of guests are return visitors. 75% of their staff are local Indonesians and a vast majority of guests are surfers (it’s a long way to come just to hang in the jungle, after all). Waves suit competent to intermediate shredders, with the ability to travel to spots that will challenge even the most battle scarred Indo veterans.
As it’s a Muslim region, the lodge is only allowed to provide alcohol for sale to the tourist market and they ask that guests don’t give alcohol to locals or workers.
It’s an open door – all are welcome. They have double rooms for couples, and with only 10 guests, they can really cater the food and activities to suit your group’s desires.
dindo’s
secret left
get your grits
sustainable shredding
cast away
The BIL staff strives to provide four-star food, mixing Asian specialties with western favorites and all using fresh, healthy ingredients. Main meals include fish ’n’ chips, chicken sauté, burgers and mi goring. Specialties range from sushi, fresh picked mussel chowder and steak with lobster topping, to beef rendang and chicken kiev. The beauty of their 10-person lodge is they can cater the food to suit your tastes, just let ’em know prior to your arrival. Bintang beers and local whiskey are also available at reasonable prices.
Set in a nature reserve, the lodge is built almost solely from materials on the land. The government has charged ’em with protecting the reefs and preserving the resources of the Banyaks and they pride themselves on keeping the place as untouched as when they first came across it.
Good fishing abounds with mahi, sailfish, tuna, white tuna, trevally and GTs, getting caught on the reg. The lodge has two 6.5-metre Dolphin boats with Yamaha motors to tame the open seas whenever guests like. They are equipped with Spanish made Abu Garcia rods, Penn reels from the USA and Repala lures from Sweden; a combination proven to maximise the chances of you catching the big one.
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region1 indonesia
Ban yak Island Lodge
If a touch of jungle isolation and truly UNCROWDED surf sounds enticing for your next surf adventure, take a journey to one of Indonesia’s last frontiers with the Banyak Island Lodge. Hosting three world-class set-ups visible from the terrace, this roots-based eco resort offers the personalised experience and uncrowded perfection you search for. The stats Dean Kosky and his wife Friska founded and established Banyak Island Lodge a couple of years back in 2009. Prior to this there were no land-based operations in the Banyaks and BIL is still the ONLY one in the region offering surfers the comfort and space of staying on land. The eco-resort camp is located in “The Bay of Plenty” on Tuangku Island, just off the west coast of North Sumatra in the province of Aceh.
Tailor-made for you? Obviously, you want uncrowded waves, but you’re also after something more. There’s a little bit of a Christopher Columbus gene inside you and when you think holiday, you think somewhere new, somewhere remote; a place rife with the possibility of discovery. A place where you could be the first one to surf a new wave! This is the place for you to unleash your inner-explorer. pat curren
Gimme the basics, real quick It’s a small resort catering for a maximum of 10 guests at one time, and being the only land camp on the island they’ve got no neighbours. The lodge is situated in a national park reserve and as a result it’s a place with ancient mangroves and 100m tall trees that is literally untouched since the beginning of time.
bragging rights Tom Curren and two sons were in the Banyaks around early September 2010, and scored Treasure Island Point pumping from dawn til dusk. With only eight guys on it and three or four barrels per wave being business as usual, it was nothing short of EPIC!
extra action
expedition essentials
Exploratory missions to nearby semisecret caves are popular flat-day fun, as is fishing, snorkeling and local village expeditions, as well as the usual TV, DVDs and video games. For $400 AUD you can also take home professional documentation of your trip, in the shape of a disc of professional photos, or an edited HD movie. See the website for more details.
hardware: A three board quiver should see you sorted; they recommend a 6’0”, a 6’3” and a 6’8”. Pack a ding repair kit too. non-surf items: Booties, travel insurance, cash for extras (alcohol, photos, local souvenirs). medical: There’s a small hospital 30mins away and the camp has comprehensive first-aid supplies. Malaria isn’t prevalent in the Banyaks, but nearby regions such as Nias are infected so it is up to you to decide on inoculations or not. Chopper is also available from Medan in case of emergencies.
5
of the best
waves you want to ride
Gunturs In short? Super consistent right-hand pits directly in front of the lodge.. Heaviness? 4-9/10 depending on size. Fun? 8/10 when small – more serious with size. Crowds? BIL guests only in the mornings, sixto-eight peeps on average after 10am. Suits? Intermediate surfers who want to get shacked. Also has softer section for turns. Lolok Point In short? 300m+ long, left-hand point break with one of the longest walls you’ll find, and visible from the lodge. Get four-to-eight turns in on the face before you decide if you’re man enough for the four-to-six-second inside barrel. Heaviness? 6/10 Fun? 7/10 Crowds? Averages five surfers, with up to 12 on the biggest days of the year. Suits? Intermediate level surfers and upwards. Dindo’s In short? One of the most playful lefts you’ll find. Bending around a perfect Macaroni’s shaped reef, it has an easy take-off and long rippable walls that tube at low tide. Fiveminute paddle from lodge. Heaviness? 3/10 Fun? 9/10 Crowds? Four surfers average with 10+ on the big days when everyone seeks refuge from the swell. Suits? Everyone. Treasure Island In short? A 30-minute boat ride gets you access to this 300m+ right point offering high-speed walls, an easy take-off, three-tofour flawless barrel sections and no booties needed. Could be the easiest wave in the world to get multiple tubes on a single ride. Heaviness? 6/10 Fun? 10/10 Crowds? Average of 10 surfers as is open to charters in the region as well as lodge guests. Suits? Everyone.
what’s included?
where do I sign?
Deluxe package includes all flights and transfers from Medan (and overnight accom in 4/5 star hotel in Medan). All food and drinks at the lodge are included, as well as three beers per day. Free Gsm telephone coverage and international calls for only 10c a minute, Internet access ($5 per hr), satellite TV with live rugby and AFL, and other western channels.
Check the website http://www.banyakislandlodge.com, or email ’em direct contact@banyakislandlodge.com. The team are offering all people who mention the ASL Travel Bible $100 off their stay, so be sure to mention us and sava da money. For the all-inclusive deluxe packages, seven-nights are $2490, 10 nights $2940, and 14 nights $3490 (all in Aussie dollars). Standard package prices available on the website.
Cobra Logs In short? A 40-minute boat ride to this lefthand swell magnet that usually has at least a shoulder high wave on offer. Can handle eight-foot plus in good south swells and offers eight-second-plus barrels on its day. Heaviness? 7/10 Fun? 7/10 Crowds? Average of eight surfers, although the crowd dwindles when it gets bigger. Suits? Everyone when small, advanced only when big.
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pic: www.kalebsmith.tv
time in transit
surf season stats
perfect match
culture conscious
open door
in the air: Oz to Singapore or KL 7hrs Singapore to Medan 1hr on the ground: Transfer to charter flight in the air: Medan to Simeulue 1hr on the water: Overnight crossing to the Banyaks 8hrs
prime time: May to August in season: March April September October can get waves: November December January February
There are five staff on the boat (including Marcus and his wife Ayu). 80% of staff are indigenous to the region and 40% of the staff are surfers. 30-40% of their guests are return business and most picked up on the charter via word of mouth.
It’s predominantly a Muslim country, so just be respectful.
All are welcome, but most often they’re accommodating hardcore wave-hunters.
pic: www.kalebsmith.tv
get your grits
sustainable shredding
cast away
included in the cost
You’re well and truly covered when it comes to feeding your face. They pride ’emselves on excellent food, with some of the following being their favourites: marinated roast lamb and steak with homemade sauces, freshly caught lobster on the Webber, and fresh sashimi. They also have a selection of homemade cakes and beer and red wine, of course.
Rainwater is caught from the roof and stored in tanks to be used for showers. All toilets run on salt water. All rubbish is taken away and cans recycled.
A 1.5m Spanish Mackerel was the most recent catch, more than enough reason to bring your fishing game face.
20 cases of beer for the 12-day charter are included, along with four bottles of red and extra spirits if the captain is happy, (otherwise purchased at cost price).
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region1 indonesia
banyak island surf charters If treasure be what ye in search of, thar be no need for a map with an X marking the spot. Banyak Island Surf Charters can take you right to the jewel-filled chest, a rippable right-hand gem called Treasure Island. The stats Twas dreams of the legendary right-hander, Treasure Island that saw Marcus Keeshan and his brother Myles establish Banyak Island Surf Charters almost a decade ago, back in 2001. The charter is based on Simeulue and it’s an eight-hour crossing over to the Banyaks, just off the west coast of North Sumatra.
Tailor-made for you? Awesome surf. Amazing scenery. A relaxed vibe. These are the things you’re looking for in a surf trip. Possibly you’ve even heard the legend of Treasure Island; a right that’s as long as Long John Silver, with multiple barrels sections to boot. Yarr, climb aboard me mateys!
Gimme the basics, real quick Straight off your charter flight, you’re greeted on the boat with cold beers and dinner being served and usually arrive in the Banyaks around midnight, set to sleep and get amongst the waves as soon as the sun’s up! The boat caters for a max of eight guests at one time, sleeping in bunk bed accom with windows and fans, TV and Internet.
pic: www.kalebsmith.tv
extra action
expedition essentials
Fishing and snorkelling are the most popular non-surf pastimes. Aside from that there’s everything from elephant trekking in the jungle, to orangutan parks. There’s plenty of ancient culture on Nias, and Lake Toba is a massive lake the size of Singapore in a volcanic crater; a must see. Hot springs, bat caves, the largest flower in the world. The list goes on.
hardware: A three board quiver should see you sorted; including a shortboard, a mid range board and a gun. non-surf items: Toothbrush, clothes and passport are all you really need. medical: There’s a qualified nurse on board for sutures, etc and antibiotics and anaesthetics are also on board. No inoculations necessary but always good to check with your doctor before you depart.
5
of the best
waves you want to ride
Treasure Island In short? Flawless perfection. Long rides. Multiple barrel sections. Paddle from the boat. Heaviness? 6/10 Fun?10/10 Crowds? Average of 5-10 surfers in the line-up. Suits? Everyone. Cobra Logs In short? Slightly more challenging than Treasure Island, but still perfect with not too many people on it. Heaviness? 7/10 Fun? 7/10 Crowds? Average of 5-10 surfers. Suits? Everyone when smaller, advanced only when big. Bay of Plenty Lefts In short? Long walls at this left-hand point break in the same bay as the rights. Heaviness? 6/10 Fun? 8/10 Crowds? Averages five surfers. Suits? Everyone.
pic: www.kalebsmith.tv
what’s new?
where do I sign?
They currently have a new boat under construction – a luxury 73ft Power Cat. Average cost for this charter will be $AUD 3300, and once finished the current boat will move to some newly discovered areas not far away.
Visit their website www.banyakislands.com, or email ’em direct info@banyakislands.com or call ’em on +61 409 422 149. The average package costs AUD$2950 per person for 12 surfing days, and includes return internal charter flight. International airfares are approx AUD$1000 ex east coast Oz.
Bay of Plenty Rights In short? Nice barrelling right hand reef break from 2 feet to 10 feet.. Heaviness? 6/10 Fun? 9/10 Crowds? Five surfers or less. Suits? Everyone. Bay of Plenty Lefts (on the inside) In short? Better for intermediate riders. Nice, three-foot glassy peelers with no one out. Heaviness? 4/10 Fun? 7/10 Crowds? Minimal. Suits? Intermediate surfers.
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all pics by brad sawatzki
time in transit
surf season stats
perfect match
culture conscious
open door
in the air East Coast Oz to Bali 6hrs on the ground Airport to Chillhouse 1hr max
prime time: June/July/ August/September in season: March/April/ May/October very few waves: November/December/ January/February
They have 36 staff in total, with 22 hospitality based and 14 surf coaches. Only one staff member is a non-local; her name is Petra and she is from Switzerland and is the manager when Alex and Sabina are in Austria riding powder. All the rest are Indonesians, and the majority speak English well. All surf coaches are obviously surfers, none of the hospitality staff surf.
Being of Hindu origin, the population of Bali are somewhat more relaxed than the rest of the mostly Muslim Indonesian population, however one must be respectful of the locals and local customs at all times.
About 20% of guests do not surf; most of them are girlfriends, wives or mothers. They love chilling out. Most families come with kids between six and 16; about 20% of their guests are families. About 40% of all surfing guests are female. About 60% of guests are return visitors, and the majority of their clientele heard about The Chillhouse via word of mouth (not anymore!)
get your grits
cast away
culture bonus
Mick Jagger was wrong! You can always get what you want, at The Chillhouse. A breakfast-lunch buffet runs from 5am until 1pm, plus afternoon snacks, fruits and water all day. For dinner you can choose between different meat, fish and vegetarian four-course dinners, buffets and BBQ’s. And don’t panic – it’s all organic! Their specialty dish is their legendary seafood BBQ each Friday and they offer a large range of beer and wine (although not included in the cost).
The largest recent haul was a 120kg Yellowfin Tuna – we reckon that’s a pretty good reason to dip your line!
Tanah Lot Temple (one of the most important as well as most famous temples on Bali) is just a 15-minutes drive from The Chillhouse. They offer cultural tours every afternoon to different places and have a full day tour every Sunday.
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region1 indonesia
The CHILLHOUSE BALI
The dream was to live in Indo, go surfing every day and have a source of income that would support that dream. Doesn’t sound too bad does it, and Alex and Sabina implore you to come share in their dream, staying in one of the most wave rich regions on the planet in complete comfort, being ferried back and forth from perfect surf every day. The stats The Chillhouse was established in 2004 by Alex and Sabina, a husband and wife team, both skiers and snowboarders from Austria who have now been in Indo since 1998. Based 2ks from Canggu Beach, 30-minutes away from Kuta. Over the past four years they’ve built six bungalows, and a house with four rooms, a big kitchen, a restaurant/lounge and pool. They’ve also educated 14 surf-coaches.
Tailor-made for you? You’ve seen the flight offers to Bali for less than it costs you to fuel your car for a week. Screw it, do it, it’s off to Indo for a quick surf trip. Booked, paid, sorted. Now, where to stay? How does a place with 12 waves on offer, and all within 10mins walking distance from Canggu Beach sound? There’s everything from barrels to easy longboard waves, and potential access to all spots on Bali. You in?
Gimme the basics, real quick It’s complete with all the mod cons: Air-con, minibar, JBL iPod docks, and free unlimited wifi all over. There’s a TV/DVD corner, chillout bales, heaps of cultural activities and membership at The Canggu Club (yoga, fitness, sauna, child care, large swimming pool, etc). 22 guests at a time are housed in bungalows with ensuite open-air bathrooms, queen, double or single beds & private gardens.
bragging rights It’s Bali, so the world’s best call this place home for at least a month during the prime season each year. At times you might be sharing the local waves with a handful of the top 44, but much of the time you’ll have ’em all to yourself!
extra action
expedition essentials
Apart from three in-house massage facilities, The Canggu Club membership is included in all premium packages. Facilities are: sauna, fitness, yoga, large swimming pool, aqua gymnastic, step aerobics, child care, children’s pool, football and rugby field, and draught beer (find out more at www.cangguclub. com)
hardware: One regular shortboard with squash tail for semi beachbreaks or sometimes blown out afternoon surf. Maybe a rounded pin for regular days at Canggu, and a larger one to be ready for the big days at the famous long lefts at the Bukit. They have heaps of boards to rent, everything from 10’0” logs to 5’6” fish. non-surf items: Sunscreen, sports shoes, iPod. medical: First world standard hospitals as well as dental care are about 20-minutes from The Chillhouse. Naturopaths and homoeopaths are good friends of The Chillhouse and are just down the road. The basic Hep A and B vaccinations are enough. There’s no malaria, hardly any dengue.
5
of the best
waves you want to ride
The Warung Left In-short? Fun to challenging left, five minutes by car/bike from The Chillhouse. Heaviness? 8/10 Fun? 10/10 Crowds? 10 surfers on average. Suits? Advanced surfers. Pererenan In-short? The Canggu Right, a rippable, occasionally hollow, but always-fun wave, five minutes from The Chillhouse. Heaviness? 8/10 Fun? 10/10 Crowds? 20 surfers on average. Suits? Intermediate to advanced surfers. Old Men’s In-short? A playful A-frame, five minutes by car/bike from The Chillhouse. Heaviness? 3/10 Fun? 10/10 Crowds? 30 surfers on average. Suits? Longboarders, and beginner to intermediate surfers. Tugu In-short? Playful left-hander, five minutes by car/bike from The Chillhouse. Heaviness? 3/10 Fun? 10/10 Crowds? 30 surfers on average. Suits? Longboarders, and beginner to intermediate surfers. Brawa In-short? Hollow, heavy right-hander, 10 minutes by car/bike from The Chillhouse. Heaviness? 9/10 Fun? 10/10 Crowds? 10 surfers on average. Suits? Advanced surfers.
sustainable shredding
where do I sign?
Greener than Don Burke’s thumbs, The Chillhouse have three core areas of eco-focus: EDUCATION of their team, community and guests – separation of garbage, no trash burning, no littering, no beach littering, no cigarette butting, no extensive use of plastic bags, weekly beach cleanings, car and bike pools, and no excessive use of air-con, water, electricity. They also encourage guests to be aware of what they eat and where it comes from. RE-USE of biodegradable soaps, cleaners and detergents and washing balls instead of washing powder and softener. They give their sheets to the only certified eco-friendly laundry on Bali, provide their guests with bio-degradable shower gels and hand soaps, do not use pesticides and have eco-septic tanks, collect rainwater, and continue to ride surfboards even though they get yellow, eventually passing them on to stoked local kids. REFUSE to buy products with excessive packaging, have hardly any one-time use plastic bags, say no to cheap prices of large retail chains, and avoid overseas products with heaps of pollution due to transportation.
Hit up their website www. thechillhouse.com. Packages range between 415, and 730 per person per week (quoted prices in EUROS) and there are never any worries to extend stays for as long as guests want – dependent on availability of course.
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time in transit
surf season stats
perfect match
culture conscious
open door
in the air: Oz to Jakarta 7hrs on the ground: Overnight stay in Jakarta in the air: Jakarta to Sumatra 45mins on the ground: Airport to the camp 6hrs (Best bet to get a pre-booked package that ends in Jakarta. They’ll do the rest.)
prime time: May to September in season: April, October and November can get waves: December to March
20% of guests are return business. Anyone who wants to see Indonesia how it really is and loves to surf quality waves would fit right in. Maybe not so suited to a vegan city slicker who is addicted to digital gadgetry, has never surfed over reef and doesn’t drink Bintang.
The area hasn’t been exposed to much tourism (only us surfers) and is fairly devout Muslim. Subsequently, visitors need to be respectful of this. Women should cover up appropriately in public and guys should wear a singlet or tee shirt when visiting villages or the main town.
Everyone welcome.
get your grits The camp has a variety of Indonesian and western style dishes to suit all tastes. Local fruits, plenty of rice, plus pasta and chips for carbs. The speciality dish is grilled fish of the day with sambal, eggplant a la ‘Krui’, corn fritters and rice. Cold beer is the only alcohol available so if you want spirits it’s BYO.
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region1 indonesia
ombak indah losmen
This is the place where you come to get away from it all; to escape the television and Internet, and indulge in a bevy of perfect waves and cold Bintang served from idyllic garden surrounds. Surfing in style, with no digital world to encroach on your relaxation. Tailor-made for you? Day job getting you down? Too much time spent burning your retinas in front of a lappy? All you want to do right now is surf and swap story with fellow surfers. Lucky for you Nev’s vision is the same. “We’re trying to keep the place in sync with the stunning location – nice gardens and plenty of quiet areas to chill out from our busy and increasingly digital lives.”
Gimme the basics, real quick They take 30 guests at a time in a mixture of rooms for one, two, three or four people. All rooms have fans, mosquito nets, linen provided, and limited Internet access and good mobile reception (if you want it). Most people travel with their mobiles or buy a local sim card, which is a lot cheaper.
The stats Ombak Indah Losmen was set up in 2001 by five Aussies, including Nev Hines and Stu Horstman, current owners of Freeline Indonesian Surf Adventures. Nev had been doing small group tours to the area since 1994. Groups used to stay at a hotel in the town Krui, about 30min by car from Ujung Bocur, the main wave in the area. “That drive was a real pain in the arse so we eventually secured some land right in front of the break and started building,” says Nev. Ombak Indah Losmen is based in a coconut plantation in Sumatra – just over 300km west of Jakarta.
5
of the best
extra action
expedition essentials
There’s no shortage of activities when the waves go flat. There’s nature treks through local agricultural areas still utilising centuries old farming practices, jungle treks through virgin rain forest, hot springs, elephant treks and walking through local villages and palm plantations. Snorkelling down in the bay is awesome. Partners can enjoy great beach walks, watching ikat weaving and the local dance group regularly performs. There are occasional wedding ceremonies and also market days.
hardware: Bring whatever you normally surf on at home and a board you’re comfortable on in bigger surf, say 6-8ft waves. For your third board, bring either a bigger gun in case you need it, or a spare in case of snapping. non-surf items: Book/magazines, a bottle of duty-free spirits, an open mind. medical: They have some basic first-aid supplies and local doctors are close by who can look at most minor injuries. Otherwise they’ll help call the emergency number on your travel insurance policy and take it from there.
waves you want to ride
Ujung Bocor In short? Long reeling left with barrels and workable walls. Heaviness? 6.5/10 Fun? 7.5/10 Crowds? 20, but thins out when it’s bigger. Plenty of take-off zones though. Suits? Competent surfers not wanting death-defying situations (although this is possible when big). way Jambu In short? Heavy left. Heaviness? 9/10 Fun? 3/10 Crowds? Non-existent. Suits? Confident surfers chasing pits. Krui Left In short? Mellow lefty. Heaviness? 3/10 Fun? 9/10 Crowds? Average of five per session. Suits? Anyone prepared to have a go. Jenny’s Right In short? A fun right. Heaviness? 3/10 Fun? 9/10 Crowds? Average of 10 surfers. Suits? Competent natural-footers who want to mix it up.
sustainable shredding
where do I sign?
The team reckons they’re pretty good on the green front. Hell, they even use banana leaf packaging for some of their meals.
Check out the bigger surf travel agents (Freeline Indonesian Surf Adventures, World Surfaris, The Perfect Wave) who do the ex Jakarta packages, and see the website for more info: www. ombakindahsurfcamp.com. The standard package ex Jakarta is 13 nights, and with a group of four or more it’s AU$1260 per person. Minimum stay is seven nights, with no maximum stay, (subject to availability).
Jimmy’s Right In short? The heavy alternative to Jenny’s. Heaviness? 8.5/10 Fun? 4/10 Crowds? Average of eight surfers, although the crowd dwindles when it gets bigger. Suits? Confident surfers in pursuit of pits.
asl travel bible 019
time in transit
surf season stats
perfect match
culture conscious
open door
in the air: East Coast Oz to Bali 5-6hrs on the ground: Transfer to Bali Marina 1hr on the water: Overnight sail to waves (For trips to Rote and Sumba, you need to fly to Kupang in West Timor, where the trips start, so add another day for those destinations.)
prime time: May-September in season: April/October/ November can get waves: December/January/ February/March
Sri Noa Noa is a classic Indonesian boat - she has class and comfort. The crew are Indonesian, so you get a slightly different experience than if you were on a boat with a western captain or guide. The boat has been operating in these waters for over 30 years and is well known by the locals, so you’re getting a little piece of history when you’re on board. No wonder 20% of guests are return visitors!
Anything goes onboard for the most part, and just the usual stuff when visiting the islands. Cover up and show respect.
Everyone’s welcome and about 30% do cruising, non-surfing itineraries. They’re mainly families doing something different.
get your grits
sustainable shredding
You’ll be provided with a variety of Indonesian and western style dishes to suit all tastes. Local fruits, plenty of rice plus pasta and chips for carbs. Indonesian style meals mostly, with the odd western style dish for variety (steak, pasta etc), and plenty of seafood. They also have cold beer on board and you have an allocation of three per day (although you’re welcome to buy more!)
The team have recently put up four solar panels to run the refrigeration, which has reduced their generator usage to almost zero. They’ve also just replaced the engine, resulting in extra speed, less noise and better fuel efficiency. All their organic waste goes back to the sea and all other waste is given to local villages for recycling (e.g. aluminium cans, plastic bottles).
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region1 indonesia
sri noa noa
The classic Indonesian boat trip experience awaits you aboard the Sri Noa Noa, and with 30 years of experience sailing Indo’s waters, this slightly smaller vessel can tuck you into little places you’d never explore otherwise. The stats Sri Noa Noa is based in Benoa Harbour, Bali and operates anywhere between Bali and West Timor. The owner acquired the boat in 2002 and does mainly surf charters to Lombok-West Sumbawa, Rote and Sumba, and non-surfing charters to places like Lombok, Komodo and Flores. The vision was to design a boat that could handle the seas and access small lagoons and reef passes that larger boats can’t. And she still does this, often exploring places where other charters don’t go.
Tailor-made for you? You’re looking for the quintessential Indonesian boat experience, and on a classic like the Sri Noa Noa, that’s just what you’ll be getting. You’ve heard about the likes of Desert Point and Scar Reef too; tales of 20-second barrels and walls that goad you to come play with them, forever, and ever, and ever… Upward and onward to Indo exploration!
Gimme the basics, real quick Sri Noa Noa is a 50ft twin master schooner, of wooden construction. She’s a cruising boat and not really suited to frothers always wanting to be somewhere else. There’s all the modern navigational and safety equipment, a tender with 15hp outboard and beds to accommodate a max of six people, although the crew suggest five is better for long trips (five single beds and one double, spread over three cabins). All beds have fans, linen provided, Internet available on smart phones, and a good stereo. There’s a good digital camera on board too and Heri, the Captain, is an accomplished photographer (many of the pics provided are his work).
5
of the best
extra action
expedition essentials
Fishing, snorkelling, reading and drinking are the best ways to take a break from the waves and reenergise. Village visits in places like Sumba and Raijua are also popular for buying local handcrafts like weavings and carvings, etc.
hardware: Bring whatever you normally surf on at home and then a board you’re comfortable on in bigger surf, say six-to-eight foot waves. For your third board you can either bring a bigger gun in case you need it, or a spare in case you break a board. There’s basic repair equipment on board, but good to BYO. non-surf: Book/magazines, a bottle of duty-free spirits, favourite fishing lures. medical: They’ve got a comprehensive first-aid kit on board and strongly encourage travel insurance in case of emergency, as well as the standard injections recommended by your GP for Indo.
waves you want to ride
These waves are on the Lombok-West Sumbawa circuit. Shipwrecks (Nusa Lembongan) In short? A perfect right-hander over coral reef grown over an old shipwreck. Heaviness? 5/10. Fun? 9/10. Crowds? Average of 20. Suits? Everyone. Desert Point (West Lombok) In short? This infamous left-hand point can throw up hollow grinding barrels, which are so long you’ll be doing time checks in the pit. Heaviness? 7.5/10 Fun? 6/10 Crowds? Lots of surfers when it’s pumping. Suits? Confident surfers chasing long barrels, easiest for goofy footers. Mawi (South coast Lombok) In short? A mega-fun left and right peak, which can also be challenging when it’s got some size. Heaviness? 6/10 Fun? 8/10 Crowds? Five surfers on average. Suits? A user-friendly wave to suit everyone, but picks up a lot of swell and is challenging when big. Scar Reef (West Sumbawa) In short? This shallow left point ain’t named Scar Reef for nothing. Heavy and hollow pits with sharp repercussions if you come off. Heaviness? 7.5/10 Fun? 5/10 Crowds? Average of 10 surfers. Suits? Confident surfers used to sharp reefs.
cast away
where do I sign?
A massive GT was hauled in back in 2010; so big in fact that no one could lift it off the deck on their own. The crew reckon the waters further east of Bali have especially good fishing.
Check out http://www.cruisebali.com, or you can also book through a couple of the bigger surf travel agents (Freeline Indonesian Surf Adventures, The Perfect Wave). An eleven night surf trip costs about AU$2200 per person, but on average it costs about AU$1000 per night (for the whole boat), so for longer or shorter trips, divide that by the number of guests. Because they cover a few different destinations they operate a flexible schedule on a first in, first served basis. It’s just a matter of setting your dates and checking availability before booking. All trips are exclusive, so you need to fill the boat with mates/family, etc
Yoyo’s (West Sumbawa) In short? A beach-break style wave that’s a little more forgiving and built for fun. Heaviness? 5/10 Fun? 8/10 Crowds? Average of five surfers. Suits? This is an all rounders wave, but it does pick up a lot of swell. Can get blown out by late morning.
asl travel bible 021
time in transit
surf season stats
perfect match
culture conscious
open door
in the air: Oz to Jakarta or KL 7-8hrs Jakarta or KL to Padang 1hr on the ground: Padang to port 30mins on the water: Passage to waves 10hrs
prime time: June to September in season: April May October November don’t bother: January
With about 50% of customers being return business, the Quest 1 crew is on the money and has 75% indigenous staff and a few staff joining in on the shredding too, but rest assured you’ll get priority!
Just the usual welcome to Indonesia. We have to respect the locals and hope they respect us also.
All are welcome, but most of their guests have one thing on the mind; surfing ’til they can’t surf no more.
get your grits
sustainable shredding
They have a Western head chef and an Indonesian chef and provide a mix of Western and Asian Food. The Western menu can be catered to guests’ needs and dietary requirements. Fresh sashimi is their speciality. Wine is on request, and beer is all inclusive.
Although they don’t have any certification to save the planet, they focus on doing their best to keep the ocean clean, the waves uncrowded, and support the locals in the areas where they operate. They ran an aid mission immediately after the Tsunami on October 25th in the southern Mentawais, to support the local villagers with food, medical, tools, and other emergency supplies financed by funds from Rip Curl.
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region1 indonesia
quest 1 surf charter
If these guys can keep the Rip Curl international surf team happy – scoring new uncrowded waves and finding the fellas pits and peaks regardless of the conditions – the Quest 1 crew shouldn’t have any problems making sure you leave surfed out with a massive smile on your dial. The stats Quest 1 is a luxury surf charter boat operating mostly in the Mentawais, but with trips all over Indonesia possible and planned in the future, as seen in Rip Curl’s recent Tip2Tip (T2T). Quest 1 is ex INDIES TRADER 2. Neptune adventures bought the boat and are operating under their own management since 2010. Their vision is to provide the ultimate luxury surf charter and high-class service to everyone that can afford it.
Tailor-made for you? You want it all and don’t mind spending a little extra to get it. Uncrowded waves, maybe even some new spots, first-class service and all with a small crew of friends and some friendly and experienced staff. If it’s good enough for Rip Curl’s international team… well, you know…
bragging rights The Quest 1 had Rip Curl’s whole international team on board for their recent “Tip to Tip” adventure. Check Ripcurl.com under the T2T section for more on the waves they scored and a taste of how you could be rollin’ on the Quest 1.
Gimme the basics, real quick The boat is mostly based in Padang. From here they operate Mentawais charters, but can also reach the Telos group, or northern or southern Sumatra areas. Their plan for the future is to also operate charters in different areas of Indonesia like Bali and Nusa Tengara, or even further east. They usually carry eight guests in four double AC cabins with TV and DVD, two private shower bath rooms and toilets. There’s a satellite phone, daily swell report, saloon with big sofa hang out area (fully air-conditioned), a home cinema entertainment system, DVD library and outside dinner area. There’s a sun deck on top deck in back of the boat too.
extra action
expedition essentials
SUP, recreational paddling, island exploring, fishing, trawling, speargun fishing, and snorkelling. Diving is also possible, as are jet-ski tow-ins.
hardware: 6’0, 6’2 and a 6’4. Ding repair stuff is onboard. non-surf items: Passport and a desire to get shacked! medical: We provide Med Evac insurance (incl.) from SOS international Group for eight guests. We can communicate via Internet and other satellite phone, and also radio to get help if needed. Tetanus vaccination is recommended and maybe Hepatitis.
5
of the best
waves you want to ride
Lance’s Right/HT’s In short? Right hand pits from here to Christmas. Heaviness? 8/10. Fun? 8/10 Crowds? Average of 10 dudes. Suits? Intermediate to advanced surfers. Lance’s Left In short? As if the rights weren’t enough… Heaviness? 6/10. Fun? 8/10 Crowds? Average of 10 dudes. Suits? Intermediate surfers. Macaronis In short? A goofy-footers wet dream, with left walls and pits on tap. Heaviness? 5/10. Fun? 10/10 Crowds? Average of 10 dudes. Suits? Everyone. Rifles In short? Some of the longest right kegs you can imagine. Heaviness? 8/10 Fun? 8/10 Crowds? Average of 10 dudes. Suits? Intermediate to advanced surfers.
cast away
where do I sign?
The fishing is good times. A 1.2m Tuna was the most recent big catch.
Best bet for booking this glorious vessel is as follows: Email info@neptune-charter.com, visit www.theneptuneadventures. com or phone +62 (0) 361 750 465. Otherwise you can visit Ripcurl. com and follow the link to T2T, then follow the link to their Neptune Adventures web site. A two-week package for a full charter for eight guests is US $40,000 including all taxes and service charges, food and beverage. That’s about US $5,000 a head.
Thunders In short? Super fun lefts ’til the cows come home. Heaviness? 8/10 Fun? 8/10 Crowds? Average of 10 dudes. Suits? Intermediate surfers.
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indonesia
region1
directory
A friendly monkey leans in for a pat. pic: shield
OPERATOR
Baneng Retreat Sjalina Banyak Island Lodge Bohemian North Sumatra Panaitan Island Eco Surf Mangalui Ndulu Nomad Charters Resort Latitude Zero ‐Telos Sumatran Surfaris Surf Camp Sumatra Bali Hai Tide Huts Batu Besar Losmen Just Dreaming charter Bobby’s GLand Indocean Surf Charter Ellie’s G-Land Joyo’s Surf Camp Lakey Peak Houses Medewi Beach Cottages Pondok Kencana Surf Lodge Bobby’s Surf camp G‐Land Dreamview Villa KLM “Moana” Novotel Coralia Lombok Partama Uluwatu Resort Uluwatu Luxury Villa Villa Tanah Damai Bungalows Aman Gati Hotel Bali wave Hunter Batu Karang Lembongan Resort
asl travel bible 024
LOCATION
North Sumatra North Sumatra North Sumatra North Sumatra West indo Sumatra Sumatra Telos Sumatra West Indo East indo West Java West Java East Java Bali Lombok Bali Java East Indo Bali West Java East Java Central East Indo East Indo East Indo Bali Bali Central South Sumatra East Indo Central Indo East Indo
AGENT
FRE STC, FRE, PW STC STC, AT, PW, WS direct WS WS WS direct direct STC FRE STC, PW, FRE PW, STC PW, GO STC WS WS , STC WS, PW, STC STC, GO PW, STC, GO, FRE, AT STC STC WS, STC STC, FRE, PW STC WS, PW STC PW, FRE WS, PW, STC STC WS, PW
OPERATOR
Blue Point Bay Villas Dreamweaver Gajah Mina Resort Heaven On The Planet Lembongan Beach Villas Moggy Catamaran Nemberala Beach Resort Nusa Lembongan Packages Ombak Indah Losmen Padang Padang Surf Camp Paus Charters Nomad Surf Resort Secret Villas Bali Sri Noa Noa Charters Surf Sumbawa The Chill House Villa Tranquil VIP Villas Lombok Guided Surfaris South Sumatra Surf Camp Bali Hotels and Villas
LOCATION
Bali East Indo Central Indo East Indo East Indo East Indo West Timor East Indo South Sumatra Bali East Indo Sumbawa Central Indo East Indo East Indo Bali Central Indo Central Indo East Indo South Sumatra Bali
AGENT
WS, PW, STC PW,GO, FRE PW WS, PW, STC WS, PW, STC PW, FRE AT WS PW, FRE, WS PW, STC WS AT, PW direct PW, FRE direct STC, PW PW PW WS WS WS,STC, PW, GO, FRE
KEY
WWW.
WS PW STC AT FRE GO
worldsurfaris.com theperfectwave.com.au surftravel.com.au atolltravel.com.au freelinesurf.com surftheearth.com.au
World Surfaris The Perfect Wave Surf Travel Company Atoll Travel Freeline Indonesian Surf Adventures Surf The Earth Go Tours
disclaimer: This list is intended to showcase all known operators in select regions and match them with reputable Australian agents that represent them. It was compiled in consultation with major Australian agents, and to the best of our ability and knowledge. It is as accurate as possible at the time of going to press (March 2011) and does not purport to be a complete final representation of all operators and all agents in all regions at any time. But it’s a bloody great source of reference and a useful starting point. Suggestion: Check the directory on the Travel Bible mini site located on www. surfinglife.com.au for direct links and up-to-date contact info. Request: If you are a reputable operator or agent and have been left out of this directory, send your details and credentials for consideration in next year’s edition to craig@morrisonmedia.com.au
tips & wisdom from asl’s wandering physician mike frood Turns out money can buy you happiness after all. The aptly named Moneytrees section at G-Land. pic: shieldsy
HOW TO GET A HAPPY ENDING EVERY TIME
No, this is not a lengthy dissertation on the tricks and trade secrets of a Balinese massage parlour. Well not all of it anyway. What follows are a few travel tales that hopefully might make your next surf mission go a little smoother. Long-time ASL scribe Mike Frood has spent plenty of time wandering the coasts of the world and had his fair share of mishaps. He’s tried his hand at many ventures and at the end of this year will graduate as a doctor. So having now been on both sides of the stethoscope he’s combined a few pearls of wisdom gleaned along the trails with a bit of medical info that’ll help keep you happy and healthy… and out in the line-up. Shit out of luck So there we were in the wilds of remote Java, holed up in a one-donkey town waiting for a swell to light up this bit of reef that had the potential to be the Holy Grail at the end of months of brutal feralling. It was just me and my longsuffering yet ever-patient and beach-loving girlfriend. We’d been staying in this beachfront hut for a week and while I’d been glued to the hammock out front waiting for The Revelation, she’d been glued to the squat toilet. Now as you all know, one of the joys of rough travel is the bouts of diarrhoea that go with it, so neither of us was particularly concerned. Fuck, I hadn’t done a solid shit in months. After a few days though she started to deteriorate a bit, fired up a fever and began to wonder aloud if there was something more sinister afoot. I, confident in my ignorance and with my heart set on this set-up, decided all would be fine; she just needed to focus her mind and fight it. As a compromise we moved to the slightly fancier losmen down the beach that had western toilets. By now my sweetheart was starting to vomit reasonably frequently, but the doctors’ was miles away and I sensed the swell was closer. I stood over the bed explaining to her I was sure this was nothing and she’d be fine in a day or two, “just eat and drink some more for strength so you can fight it,” I reasoned. I’ll never forget her response. She sat bolt upright in bed, the fastest she’d moved in days, and let fly an exorcist-style power chuck that hit my chest with such force I staggered backwards. As I stood there dumbfounded, dripping in the 45 kilos worth of spew that had just come out of my 50kg lover, I nodded my head in agreement that we were going to the doctors. Within two minutes of hitting the doctor’s surgery we were racing off to the hospital for emergency surgery to remove her appendix that was about to burst and potentially kill her… Reckon I ever lived that one down? The lesson from all this is not only to never let a swell get in the way of not killing a loved one, but that if you are going to be an intrepid wanderer and escape the shackles of the modern world, then don’t just rely on dumb luck – prepare yourself for the potential troubles you might face. As someone wiser than me put it, “thorough preparation makes its own luck.” Obviously you don’t want to waste all your time preparing or you’ll never get around to the doing, but there are a few simple things you could do that, when the shit goes down, could make the difference between life and death. And it’s not just your own arse you might save – there’s no better way to pull women or earn priority in the line-up than by saving someone’s life!
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Do a first aid / basic life support course Not only will these skills come in handy when you’re in the wilds of some third world country, but if you’re dragging a shark attack victim to the beach at your home break and are the only thing standing in the way of the poor bastard bleeding to death, wouldn’t it be cool to have had some training. Courses like this also show you how to deal with bites and stings and fractures and dislocations, all fairly common mishaps in surf travel (the common thread with bites and stings is they’re all treated with hot water, hot as you can handle without burning yourself – this goes for stone fish, sting rays, even jelly fish and other stingers). You could always go one step further and get someone to show you how to stitch up a wound – befriend a medic and ask your doc for some suture materials; practice on a banana and then take your gear with you and save the day when shit goes down and there’s no one around to help. If you are going remote it can’t hurt to travel with your own needles in case you need an injection of some sort and can’t rely on getting clean equipment. Get your shit together Before you go, make sure you’ve had all your immunisations and you’re fit and well. Take a good first aid kit. Depending on where you’re going it can also be a good idea to take anti-malaria tablets and travel with some anti-diarrhoea medications and some broad-spectrum antibiotics from your doc in case you get crook and can’t get to a doctor. Temember if you are taking meds, take a letter from your doc so you don’t end up shacking up with Schapelle. Know when to panic Chances are if you travel enough you’re gonna get crook sooner or later, but when should you worry? Gut instinct is usually pretty good but as my tale highlights, sometimes there are external forces (i.e. swell) that will persuade you to ignore your gut, or your partner’s! A first aid course will prepare you a bit, and the internet has revolutionised access to good info if you know where to look (sites such as www.betterhealth.vic.gov.au are gold) but there ain’t always internet in the jungle, so it’s worth equipping yourself with a bit of knowledge. Most gut pain is going to be benign, but things like appendicitis or ectopic pregnancies in girls are life-threatening. Generally any pain in your guts that starts to localise to a specific spot and gets sharper spells trouble. But even our old friend ‘tap arse’ can kill as well if it gets violent enough and you don’t replace your fluid losses. Chest pain is never a good one to ignore. Just have a good yarn with your doctor before you head off and ask for info on the things that might affect you.
detour
Chilli tarts This next one’s a beauty, so allow me to set the scene… This time it was a mate (honestly, it was!) who after a fruitless night out at the Bounty decided to stimulate the local economy via a lady of the night. Without going into details, one thing led to another, as it tends to do with such exchanges, and in the heat of the moment disaster struck… no the hooker did not turn out to have a penis, the other disaster – the franga broke. Now what happened next cannot be condoned, nor can it be verified as there were no other witnesses, but seeing as we’ve made our mate re-tell the story so many times for the sheer hilarity of it, I’ve got a pretty good mental picture that I’ll attempt to convey to you, dear reader. So boom, deed’s done, clean-up pack-up time and old mate realises his tarp has torn. His eyes bulge out of his head, his nuts leap up into his guts, a cold sweat breaks out and his brain swirls through a haze of jungle juice to try to deal with the situation. Before the young lass knows what’s happened he’s leapt up, whipped his shorts on and barricaded her in the room, dead-bolting the door behind him. As she hollers and tries to kick the door down, he’s flying off down the stairs into the night. ‘To do what exactly?’ I hear you ask incredulously. Well of course he’s charging into a medical clinic in downtown Kuta demanding the clinic nurse accompany him back to the hotel to swab his recent acquaintance to see if she’s carrying any nasty trophies of her trade. HIV is top of his list of concerns. But despite his pleading and attempts at bribery none of the several clinics he marches into at these wee hours of the morning, bare-chested and wild, to explain he has a captured prostitute he’d like examined… no one is keen to join him and perform the deed. Dejected, despondent and admittedly fucking terrified, he reluctantly heads back to the hotel to free the poor girl who he left there several hours prior. Bali is a land of karma, and our friend the captor was on the receiving end of this ancient philosophy thanks to some modern technology – to wit, the mobile phone he’d left with the dazed harlot. Naturally she hadn’t taken too kindly to her treatment and had called the Polisi who were at the hotel waiting to return the favour of captivity to our friend, down at the local cop shop. The long and short of it was a night in the slammer, an embarrassing retelling of the story to the law and an even more embarrassing retelling to his parents back home so they’d send up some cash for the hefty out-of-court settlement he got away with instead of jail time. More importantly he escaped the harsh penalty of HIV from his misadventure, when he finally got the results after the three-month waiting period. These days HIV is no longer a death penalty, but it is a serious life-long disease and one of a host of infections that have tarnished the good name of free love. HIV is rife in Asia; including the places we hit up on surf trips and after dropping off dramatically in Australia is now actually back up on the rise here, thanks to
lax attitudes and from crew picking it up from unprotected sex abroad. And the rest of the smorgasbord of genital-warping nasties you can bring home as souvenirs aren’t much fun either. ASL would never be one to espouse celibacy, making new friends is one of the beauties of travel! But just play it safe. Get ya froth on Hopefully you’ll be frothing at the bit with the waves you’re scoring, but if you see a dog doing the same you might want to give it some space. Rabies is back on the scene in Bali and elsewhere, and while the authorities have got it mostly under control it’s still worth keeping an eye out for. Dengue can be a problem in Bali and throughout Asia and malaria is rampant in many farther flung locations. The more remote you go the more you start to come across diseases long-forgotten in Australia, things like measles, polio, and the like; so again make sure you’ve had your immunisations and know what diseases are about and what symptoms they present with. I spent days curled up on the bathroom floor of a losmen in Eastern Indo, shitting and spewing like it was an Olympic sport, determined I couldn’t have malaria ’cause I didn’t have the typical shakes I’d seen in the movies only to be told by the guy driving me the three hours to hospital once I’d started slipping out of consciousness, that of course it was malaria – ‘stomach malaria’ as the locals called it when it’s presented this way. Two years later I finally returned to the same weight and strength as before I’d contracted the two separate malarial strains. A final thought It’s worth noting in a piece like this that all the nasties you need to avoid – and generally will be able to be cured of once you come back home to our firstworld health system – are a grim reality of life for the locals in many of our neighbouring countries. Preventable diseases are rampant and the good health we take for granted can often be a luxury people can’t afford. I’ll never forget the tragedy in the face of a local I worked with at a surf camp who had just lost his seventh and final grandkid – all had died before reaching school age, due to either malaria or chronic diarrhoea, both easily preventable diseases. So bear this in mind; savour your health and if you feel inclined, take some extra supplies with you to leave behind in remote spots or give some coin to the aid agencies working in the field. And finally, after all that - go and have a fucken good time. There’s nothing in life more rewarding than going forth and exploring this amazing world of ours. Go get amongst it. Froody would like to thank Dr Phillip Chapman, Emergency Physician and head of the Surfing Doctors Association for helping out with the medical side of this article. For more info on how to stay safe in and around the surf check out www.surfingdoctors.com
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Jordy Smith squares off the base of the pendulum. pic: agustin munoz
overnight sails, hollowed-out trees, gudang hits, hidden gems, restless tectonic plates.. asl travel bible 028
mentawais
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time in transit
surf season stats
perfect match
culture conscious
open door
in the air: Oz to Singapore 7hrs Singapore to Padang 1hr on the ground: Padang to port 30mins on the water: Overnight sail to waves
prime time: May/June/ September/October in season: April/July/ August/November can get waves: December/January/ February/March
Of the 50 staff, 85% are indigenous to the region. 20% of the staff are surfers themselves, and with 97% of guests being return visitors, you best jump online now and make a booking before it’s booked out.
Be polite and respectful – as always in life. Boys should wear long pants when transiting through the country and when visiting government offices, banks etc. Girls, think conservative clothes.
35% of guests are nonsurfing guests – wives, girlfriends, families will all love the facilities and service of the Indies Trader 4. 25% of guests are groms under 16 and 25% are female surfers; there are waves to suit everybody, after all.
get your grits
sustainable shredding
cast away
Turns out employing a qualified and experienced chef, and trained stewards can really pay off. Using only the freshest and best ingredients available – including imported meats and dairy products, freshly caught seafood and bread baked onboard – the IT4 crew guarantee that dining will be one of the highlights of your day. Let’s not forget the fully stocked (and open) bar too, with a huge variety of beer, and quality international wines and spirits.
The first to acknowledge the environmental impact of using a diesel fuelled vessel to hunt perfect waves, Martin and the Indies fleet are constantly looking for new ways to reduce their ecological footprint and give back to the environment.
The fishing is great wherever the Indies Trader 4 travels, the biggest recent catch being a 70kg sail fish.
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indies trader 4
Maybe you heard by word of mouth? Or maybe you saw her in your dearest surf DVD, or while flickin’ through the folds of your favourite mag. Whatever the case, this vessel’s rep precedes her. For Christ’s sake, she’s got a freakin’ helicopter! The stats Martin Daly has been running Indies Trader charters for over 20 years. In the beginning it was simply so he could go surfing and he admits this is still the best part of the job. Based in Padang, the Indies Trader 4 specialises in luxury, high-performance surf charters. It’s not unusual for trips to deviate into lesser-known areas too, thanks to the crew’s expert knowledge on spots that many people don’t know exist and the conditions they need to pump.
Tailor-made for you? Typically, you’re looking to ride out your days onboard as follows: wake up at dawn, go surfing, come in, have breakfast, go surfing, have lunch, take a nap or watch a movie while motoring to another break, wait ’til sun gets lower, go surfing till sunset, drink beer on bar deck watching sunset and tell huge lies about barrels conquered, eat till you want to explode, drink till you fall over, go to bed.
Gimme the basics, real quick 14-day charters in some of the most perfect waves on earth. 20 guests max, with 12 cabins offering everything from queen and double beds, to bunks. Ensuites in nine cabins, TVs and DVDs players in eight cabins and phones in four cabins. This jib is fully air-conditioned, with an open bar, Apple TV’s loaded with movies, broadband Internet available at extra cost and the chopper available for extra (depending on location).
bragging rights A veritable who’s who of pro surfing have graced the deck of the Indies Trader 4 – but it’s tough to wipe images of Kelly Slater and the Quik Young Guns from your mind when thinking about this mammoth vessel.
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expedition essentials
When you’re not basking in the glory of the boat you’re on, or the waves you’re surrounded by, or talking crap while getting loose there’s plenty to do. Fishing, diving, snorkelling, jetskis, kayaks (not goat boats!) SUPs and a tin boat for exploration, all at your fingertips.
hardware: Regular short board, plus something about four inches longer than that, which can handle steep, hollow and larger waves. A spare for your regular short board could come in handy too. The crew can help out with dings and cracks, but materials for repairing snapped boards are hard to come by. non-surf: A good attitude, sunscreen and wax. medical: SOS medivac insurance included, full medical and surgical kits on board with immediate access to ex-pat doctors via phone. Inoculations are not required, but left up to the discretion of the client.
waves you want to ride
Martin Daly and the Indies Trader charters have the best reputation in the world for uncovering and surfing some of the world’s most perfect waves in this region. Hell, if you’d been scouring these parts for 20 years you might pick up a thing or two. The majority of high profile and highperformance waves have been found and surfed in the Ments. You know ’em and hell, that’s probably why you’re on your way there! But with experience and ocean knowledge like Martin’s, you’ll be sure to be surfing the right waves, in the right conditions with the least crowd… with maybe a few little surprises here and there!
where do I sign? Check out www.indiestrader.com or shoot an email through to indiestrader@indiestrader.com. Pricing is from $300 to $1000 a day depending on class of accommodation. Bookings are usually for 14 days, but can be reduced or extended as per request of the individuals/ group. Price is all-inclusive apart from telephone calls made from the vessel and international flights.
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time in transit
surf season stats
perfect match
culture conscious
open door
in the air: Oz to Singapore or KL 7-8hrs Singapore or KL to Padang 1hr on the ground: Padang to port 30mins on the water: Passage to waves 10hrs
prime time: April/May/ September/October in season: March/June/ July/August can get waves: November/December/ January/February
With about 50% of customers being return business, the Arimbi team seems to be pretty good at keeping their guests happy in a consistent wave-filled paradise.
The Mentawai Islands are a mixture of Christian and Muslim religions and the difference between the villages and families vary greatly. Patience, a good healthy attitude and a clean appearance will help ease any tensions if they are around. Women should be aware that it is a predominantly Muslim country and appropriate clothing will be required to wear in public.
All are welcome and but they mostly cater for wave-hungry barrel junkies.
get your grits
sustainable shredding
It’s all about keeping you fuelled for hours and hours of shredding, and with a bevy of healthy low GI foods designed to keep energy levels at a premium, the staff in Arimbi’s galley have got you covered. Indo dishes are their speciality, plus and allocation of three beers a day per person are supplied. Guests can also purchase more beer prior to departure in Padang.
An eco friendly operation, they try their best to support the environment in a sustainable manor the best we can. Introducing best practises for the environment throughout the Mentawai Islands is something all operators and guests should be encouraging.
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arimbi
With 10 years’ experience cruising the Ments, The Arimbi crew’s offer to you is simple; a near guarantee of scoring all those big name spots you’ve dreamed of for years, as well as the possibility of indulging in a few well-kept secrets. The stats The Surf Travel Company first established the Arimbi charter boat over a decade ago back in 2000 with an initial vision to support the first surf comp in Mentawais. They saw a gap in the market for a mid-ranged priced vessel and sure enough they’re still going strong in 2011. There are five crew aboard the boat, plus Darren Rogers, you’re über-experienced surf guide.
Tailor-made for you? When it comes to surf trippin’, you’re a man with simple needs. Surf, eat, surf, eat, surf eat, sleep, with possibly the occasional lazy beer in between. The Ments is one of the most wave-rich zones on the planet and the your Arimbi crew know it better than anyone. Grab some mates and hop aboard!
Gimme the basics, real quick Based in Padang and travels anywhere off the Sumatran mainland, mainly through the Mentawai Islands and up through the Batu and Hinako’s island chains. The boat holds a max of 10 surfers at one time, with three separate cabins, a saloon and separate kitchen. Full aircon, entertainment system, flat-screen TV, DVD and external hard drive with over 12,000 songs and 100’s of movies. docking station to cruise around the ship with.
bragging rights Jim Banks has been a surf guide and currently they have Darren Rogers who is sponsored as a free surfer for D’Arcy Surfboards. He’s the resident shredder and surf guide, pictured in a few of the images on this spread.
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Bintang beer challenges can be common on small or flat days. Beach BBQ’s can also be arranged if the elements align. There’s also bird watching of certain species only found on Siberut Island. The Surf Aid HQ is at Tua Pajet, the capital of the Mentawai Islands. Fishing, snorkelling, island and village visits are popular, as are cultural tours through remote villages and river systems.
hardware: Your normal board times two and one bigger board for the big stuff. BYO ding repair stuff. non-surf items: A good attitude, as some things won’t always run to plan. Some rupiah, to buy things in the islands from the locals, or at their shop outposts. Your own medical kit… Who was it that said, “Always be prepared?” medical: They’ve got a fairly comprehensive kit on board for minor cuts, lacerations and common sports injuries. See your family doctor for advice on any inoculations, as everyone’s ideas are different. Best bet is to take out Sure Save Travel Insurance with STC or Cover More Travel Insurance. Both have Medivac components.
waves you want to ride
Lance’s Right/HT’s In short? One of the world’s greatest rights. Barrels abound. Heaviness? 6-8/10. Fun? 8-10/10 Crowds? Often crowded, but still possible to get uncrowded sessions. Suits? Intermediate to advanced surfers. Macca’s In short? An incredibly consistent left and again, mechanically perfect. One of the most fun waves in the world. Heaviness? 6-8/10. Fun? 8-10/10 Crowds? Often crowded, but still possible to get uncrowded sessions. Suits? Intermediate to advanced surfers. Rifles In short? It ain’t named Rifles for nothing, with right-hand barrels “rifling” down the reef for several hundred metres. Heaviness? 8-10/10 Fun? 8-10/10 Crowds? Often crowded, but still possible to get uncrowded sessions. Suits? Intermediate to advanced surfers.
cast away
where do I sign?
Flat day fishing fun holds huge potential. A 1.5m Sailfish was the most recent big catch.
Your best bet is to call STC (Surf Travel Co) on +6129222 8870 and they will do the rest for you quickly, easily and as painlessly as possible. The Arimbi Charter costs approx AUD $2,990.00 per person as the flights vary so much depending on the route taken to get to Padang and the time of booking. Approximately $1200 - $1,800 per person once on board. Best to book flights as early as possible to score the best deals. Charter dates are scheduled, but can be lengthened prior to confirmation of the charter for extra. Inquire when booking.
Thunders In short? Shreddable lefts and rights to suit everyone. Heaviness? 6-8/10 Fun? 6-8/10 Crowds? Less crowded, but can still get busy. Suits? Intermediate to advanced surfers. The rest? Although they’re keeping their cards close to their chest, the Arimbi crew assures us there are still some secret spoils to be had in the Ments. It’s all part of the service and the happiest of happy days if you luck into ’em.
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time in transit
surf season stats
perfect match
culture conscious
open door
in the air: Oz to Singapore 7hrs Singapore to Padang 1hr on the ground: Padang to port 30mins on the water: Overnight sail to waves
prime time: May/June/July/August in season: March/April/ September/October can get waves: November/December/ January/February
With 80% of customers being return business, they must be doing something right. The Kaimana was fully booked for 2011, except for October charters, and all on board crew are Indonesian (except for surf guide and part boat owner, Shayne).
Although there are no cultural sensitivities on board, guests are always briefed with regards to respecting everyone in and out of the water. In their words, “The locals are gracious enough to let us use their priceless resources – in terms of their reefs, waves and beautiful island location – so they’re treated with the utmost respect.”
It’s a free-forall! Bring your better half. Bring your youngsters. Groms (under 16) must be with a parent or guardian, but aside from that, everyone’s welcome.
get your grits
sustainable shredding
cast away
Closely followed by their ability to score you uncrowded perfection is their ability to tantilise your taste buds with culinary gems. With dishes ranging from Western cuisine classics to Indo specialities, they reckon their food is the best in the Islands. Sashimi, Beef Rendang, Nasi Goreng; it’s all up to you and your belly. Included in the cost are three meals per day, plus fresh fruit and some snacks. Drinks include water, juices, soft-drink, tea and freshly brewed coffee every morning, and most importantly, beer! (Choice of Bintang and Heineken).
All rubbish is stored on board and taken back to Padang.
Dunkin’ your line is always an option and with huge Mahi Mahi having been caught in the past, you best be bringing your fishing A game.
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SURGING WATERS MENTAWAI CHARTERS
The crew at Surging Waters pride themselves on an ethos of scoring you uncrowded waves and their experienced crew will go to great lengths to assure this. All the while, you’ll be residing in absolute comfort and exploring the magic of the Mentawais onboard Kaimana. What could be better? The stats Built back in 2004, The Kaimana is the pride of Surging Waters Mentawai Charters. Joe, Amy, Shayne and Ferry founded the charter business around the same time and haven’t looked back since. The Kaimana operates throughout the whole of the Mentawais, from the far north, to the far south. Hell, they’ll sail you to the Telos if you wanna go.
Tailor-made for you? You’ve spent far too many years watching footage of the Mentawais, on every surf flick known to man. The Campaign vids, Thomas Campbell’s Sprout, any number of ASL DVDs; you’re sick of watching other people surf their brains out, and live like kings of the Indo oceans. It’s time to get involved
Gimme the basics, real quick They keep things tight, catering for a maximum of ten guests accommodated in twin cabins. Aircon, lounge room, bar, sundeck; it’s all there. Minimum peeps for a charter is six, and charters are generally 10 days/11 nights in length. They’ve been in operation for seven years now, so you can rest assured they know their stuff.
bragging rights They’ve had a swag of big names call through in years passed, including Taj Burrows, Yadin Nichol, Jordy Smith and Ry Craike.
what’s new?
expedition essentials
Ever keen to please their guests and keep ’em coming back, the Surging Waters crew have two new tenders in 2011 and two freshly reno’d bathrooms. “The Black Pearl” is a 5.2-metre, fibreglass centre console powered by two 40hp engines. It has a ski bar and rope and a shade canopy. The other ride is a threemetre inflatable with fiberglass hull, powered by a 15 hp engine.
hardware: Simply bring the tools of your trade; two short boards and a slightly bigger board would be the ideal recommendation. Ding repair kit can come in handy too. non-surf items: Sunscreen, hat, iPod and lappy. medical: SW base in Padang can organise a chopper if needed. The speedboat (based in Bungus Harbour) is an adequate backup and with three 200 hp engines it can get you where you need to go in a few hours (weather permitting). There’s an extensive first aid kit on-board with Shayne having completed first aid training and competent with any medical situation. Other travel injections and medication are up to the individual, none are currently recommended.
included in the cost
where do I sign?
Three meals per day, plus snacks and drinks, airport transfers to and from Kaimana and use of all onboard equipment, including snorkelling and fishing gear. Government and harbour permits are also covered.
Email charters@surgingwaters.com or check the website at www.surgingwaters.com Individuals start from USD$2400 per person. Discounts are given for group bookings and trips usually have the option to be extended by one or two days if you can’t bear to leave just yet.
best of the best
waves you want to ride
The Mentawais is one of those glorious places on earth blessed to be inundated with spots. Too many to name, truth be told. The Surging Waters team will be more than happy to take you to all the big name spots. HT’s, Telescopes, Rifles; if you’re keen, if it’s on, or if they think it will be uncrowded, these legendary waves await your arrival. There’s also plenty of exploration and discovery to be had in these here parts, and the Kaimana crew are self-confessed specialists at getting you on the most pumping waves, without the big name crowds that often go with the big name spots. After all, you came here to surf, right?
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time in transit
surf season stats
perfect match
culture conscious
open door
in the air: Oz to Singapore 7hrs Singapore to Padang 1hr on the ground: Padang to port 30mins on the water: Overnight sail to waves
prime time: April/May/June/July in season: March/August/ September/October can get waves: November/December/ January/February
With 75% of customers being return business, the friendly skippers and the four Indonesian crew do a great job of keeping customers happy.
Culturally, Padang is a great insight into the Indonesian and Muslim way of life. There’s often the chance to go on island and village visits; the Indonesians love visitors! Cultural sensitivity must be shown in Padang, and everyone should cover up, as it’s very different to Bali. The Mentawaians are a little less strict, but one should always wear a shirt in villages and always show respect.
All are welcome and there have been plenty of non-surfing guests, mostly wives and girlfriends, who are always well looked after. They’ve had plenty of father/son trips and more and more family trips too.
get your grits
sustainable shredding
cast away
included in the cost
With a mix of Asian and western dishes, the chef – Elvis – will make sure your appetite and taste buds are well sated, with lots of fish, rice, chicken and heaps of fruit. There are usually two breakfasts, snacks whenever you want, and a big lunch and dinner. 30 cases of beer are also included in the price! (Not per day, silly.)
All rubbish is stored on board and taken back to Padang. As well as all recyclables being –imagine this – recycled.
There’s always the chance to throw a line in, with an extensive range of fishing gear and tackle available.
Three meals per day and use of all resort facilities (SUP, kayaks, snorkel gear etc) and boat trips to local surf breaks, for snorkelling and fishing in the local area. All transfer assistance on Fiji is also provided free-ofcharge.
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the barrenjoey
When your skipper’s more excited than you are to find the best waves (and he’ll probably beat you into the line-up once you’re there), you know you’re giving yourself the best possible opportunity to rack up serious water time in the best salt around. Hello helloey, Barrenjoey. The stats John McGroeder has been in the Ments for 12 years, working on the Katika and the Indies Trader before meeting his wife Belinda and setting up the Barrenjoey, which is now into its ninth season. John or Ben Hiller are the two skippers you’re likely to have guiding you through the isles, and are both notoriously mad frothers when it comes to waves.
Tailor-made for you? You’re probably looking to tally up about six months worth of waves in the 10 days allocated. Your ocean hours have been limited of late and you’re looking to make up for lost time. Maybe you’ve got a bunch of mates who want to surf their brains out on the best waves they can find too? Climb aboard!
Gimme the basics, real quick The Barrenjoey is based in the Mentawais, with charter HQ in Padang. 10 guests are catered for on the boat, with the accommodation set-up consisting of two double cabins and one large cabin with six bunks. Luxuries include TV and DVDs, plus jet-skis and a large tender.
bragging rights Just over 12 months ago the Mt Woodgee team jumped aboard for a charter, including Bede Durbidge and Kong – hell, ASL even ran a feature story on it! Over the past eight seasons the Barrenjoey has seen it all, from renowned big wave hunters, to seasoned pros and average Joe’s – everyone gets a slice of the action on the ‘Joey.
extra action
expedition essentials
Non-surf activities include fishing, diving, snorkelling, wake-surfing behind a ski, exploring the islands and anything else you can think of that comes with being on a charter boat in one of the most beautiful places on earth. Guests are encouraged to hit dry land and mix with the locals too, an experience not to be missed.
hardware: Take a mix, three boards recommended. Normal short board, something mid-range and a larger gun. non-surf items: iPod, camera and a good book. medical: There’s a medivac procedure with SOS or the travel insurance company that guests choose before they come (this is mandatory). If necessary, we can speed them to the nearest port and fly out from there. There’s a first-aid kit on-board and all staff are trained. Inoculations are as per your doctor’s advice.
5
of the best
waves you want to ride
Lance’s Right/HT’s In short? Consistently voted one of the top ten waves in the world, it’s a fast, hollow and mechanically-perfect right-hander. Heaviness? 8/10, depending on conditions. Fun? 10/10 Crowds? Can get very busy, but still the chance to score it on with no one around thanks to your clever captain. Suits? Intermediate to advanced surfers. Macaronis In short? An incredibly consistent left and again, mechanically perfect. One of the most fun waves in the world. Heaviness? 6-8/10, depending on size. Fun? 10/10 Crowds? As above. Suits? Intermediate level surfers. Rifles In short? Dead-straight, right-hand barrels for several hundred metres. It’s an intense take-off area and all about speed, but still makeable and escapable. Heaviness? 7-10/10 Fun? 8/10 Crowds? As above. Suits? Intermediate to advanced surfers.
local knowledge
where do I sign?
Under unfortunate circumstances, the Barrenjoey played a large part in the aid efforts after the October 2010 Tsunami that rocked the Mentawai island chain. The efforts have only helped to foster a deeper love and appreciation of the islands and their people.
The easiest way to book is through www.sumatransurfcharters.com. au, with the average cost at $3200 per person (excluding international flights). The Barrenjoey’s friendly agents at Atoll Travel can help you out as well. Additional charges are the Mentawais tax ($3 per person per day) and the Indonesia entry tax (around $25).
Telescopes In short? Perfect and hollow left barrel. Bigger and faster than it looks from the boat, mind. Heaviness? 7/10 Fun? 8/10 Crowds? Busy, as above. Suits? Intermediate to advanced surfers. The rest? If you want the big name Ments breaks (as above) you can have them, but the crew will also be hell bent on getting you into the best and most uncrowded surf to suit your crew’s ability.
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time in transit
surf season stats
perfect match
culture conscious
open door
in the air: East coast Oz to Kuala Lumpar airport 8hrs KL to Padang 1hr on the ground: Padang to Ambu Ambu ferry: short drive on the water: Overnight ferry to Tuapajat Tuapajat to retreat 30mins
prime time: May to August in season: March, April, October can get waves: All year ’round (December is worst month)
2011 is their first year of operations, and out of their 12 staff, 10 are from the local village, ensuring a truly Indonesian experience.
As West Sumatra is a Muslim community, some cultural sensitivities must be maintained when travelling through Padang and on the ferry. Men must always wear a shirt, for women knee-length shorts/ skirts are best as are t-shirts, not tank tops. Be sure to shake and wave with your right hand too.
Everyone’s welcome and so far they’ve had a mix of men and women, and surfers and nosurfers, all whom have enjoyed their stay.
get your grits
sustainable shredding
what’s included?
With an emphasis on locally sourced produce, as well as home-baked breads and pastries, their experienced Indonesian chef combines traditional and western recipes to create the most delicious meals. For the early bird, there’s fruit, yogurt, homemade granola and coffee and tea. Or you can order what you like; omelettes, pancakes, French toast, bacon and eggs. Lunches and dinners are served buffet style with pizza, burritos, pasta, curries, Indonesian dishes, fresh fish, roast chicken and fresh salads. Home made cakes, donuts and fresh fruits round out your feast for dessert.
They be green as the jungle surrounding ’em and John and Ainsley have worked hard at leaving a small footprint. Their staff housing runs off solar power and they’re looking at the possibility of running the whole place off bio-diesel in the future. A majority of the retreat has been constructed using driftwood and recycled timber, as a result of John’s artistic flair and creativity with wood. They compost, recycle and catch their drinking water from the rain (then filtered). All showers are also pumped out of a fresh-water well on the island.
All meals and food including most snacks and daily speedboat transport to optimal surf breaks on that given day. One refillable bottle of water is also provided.
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region2 mentawais
togat nusa retreat
Sometimes you’re so busy chasing waves you need another vacation to get over your trip. Togat Nusa Retreat makes sure that won’t be necessary, offering yoga, massage and relaxation (not to mention waves out front!). Ringed by beautiful white sand beach, this privately owned, 12-hectare island can be circumnavigated in just half an hour, making for the perfect escape. The stats It’s located on Pitojat, an island just off the North Western corner of Sipora Island, 80kms off the west coast of mainland Sumatra. It is part of the Mentawai Island chain. Along with the support of Pak Bangun, founders John and Ainsley Ocean established Togat Nusa Retreat back in 2008 and had their first year of guests in 2010.
Tailor-made for you? You’re probably due for a break from your fast-paced lifestyle, keen to get away for some rest and relaxation with not too many other people around. You might even take the missus with you. In between surfing yourself silly, you figure some fishing, diving, massage and yoga will be perfect to round out your meditative escape.
Gimme the basics, real quick The vision was to create a unique, soulful and sustainable destination with personalised service & surf. Three twin-share bungalows cater for a maximum of six guests at one time (unless organised otherwise). All have fans, private bathrooms with hot running water and interior design with hand-built custom furniture and antique lighting and fixtures.
good wood The pair previously built and ran Kandui Resort “from the jungle up” back in 2004, and John is renowned in the Ments for his building skills, incorporating traditional design and driftwood, and milling his own wood.
extra action
expedition essentials
The emphasis is on relaxation, so when you’re not surfing it’s time to chill out and take in the surrounds. Swimming, snorkelling and fishing are popular, as are yoga and meditation classes, massage and local village visits.
hardware: Most people bring between two-to-four boards, riding shortboards most of the time, and occasionally reaching for the gun. BYO ding repair kit too. non-surf items: Yoga mat, long and light pants and shorts for mosquito protection, and don’t forget your up-to-date passport and visa! Health insurance is mandatory as well. medical: The retreat is only half an hour away from the Mentawai Hospital. They have supplies for minor cuts and bumps and can arrange speedboat or plane to Padang if necessary.
5
of the best
waves you want to ride
Scarecrows In short? A long lefthander straight out front, which wraps around the front of the Island for rides of up to 200 metres. Consistent and surfable on almost all swells and tides. Heaviness? 6-9/10 (depending on swell size) Fun? 8/10 Crowds? Average of four people. Suits? Everyone. Suicides In short? A short boat ride from the resort, this hollow right-hander breaks over a shallow and very live reef and is best on high tide. Heaviness? 8/10 Fun? 7/10 Crowds? Just you and your friends. Suits? Intermediate to advanced surfers. Telescopes In short? A 20-minute boat ride from the resort, this long left-hander is a sight to be seen on the right swell direction, offering 200m walls with section after smashable section. Heaviness? 7/10 Fun? 10/10 Crowds? Average of eight guys in the water. Suits? Anyone and everyone. Icelands In short? 30 minutes in the boat will see you arrive at this super-consistent left. Short walls and pits when smaller, with steep take-offs and a heaving barrel when it’s bigger. Heaviness? Anywhere from 8/10. Fun? Anywhere from 7-10/10. Crowds? Just you and your friends. Suits? Intermediate to advanced surfers, depending on size.
not included
where do I sign?
$25 visa fee on your arrival, $10 departure tax, transportation fees (exact fee for 2011 is $350 per person), travel insurance (which is mandatory), soft drinks, juices, bottled water, beer and hard liquor. There is also wireless and a house computer in the bar/restaurant area for guests to email, Skype and check surf reports. See website for costs.
Go direct, via their website at www.togatnusaretreat.com, or contact Ainsley Ocean on info@togatnusaretreat.com, or through their Australian booking agent World Surfaris www.worldsurfaris.com Surfers staying for seven nights are $1750, plus the $350 transport fee. Non-surfers are $1575 plus the $350 transport fee. All prices are in US dollars.
Seven Palms In short? Good option for some fun on small days and only 10mins from Togat Nusa, this left peels off along the reef in front of a scenic, limestone-covered beach. Heaviness? Anywhere from 3/10. Fun? Anywhere from 7/10. Crowds? Just you and your friends. Suits? Suitable for all skill levels.
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pic: billy morris
time in transit
surf season stats
perfect match
culture conscious
open door
Seven to eight hours from the east coast of Australia
best 4 months? May, June, July, August second best 4 months? March, April, September, October can get waves? Rest of the year round
80% of their previous guests have been return business and a majority of staff are local Mentawai people, making for the quintessential Indo experience.
In general, the Mentawai people are very friendly and laid back, and besides the Islamic culture in transit through Padang, the Mentawai culture is dominantly Christian, and very relaxed.
Everyone’s welcome. They have plenty of non-surfing guests (sometimes 50-60%) meaning all the more waves for you.
get your grits
sustainable shredding
cast away
Kandui Villas Restaurant features fine dining, with influence from Italian, French, Japanese, Indonesian, and Cajun Cuisine. There’s a special emphasis on fresh seafood and barbeque and their specialty dish is Mud Crab. Their bar also features a wide variety of alcoholic drinks available including spirits, cocktails, wines, and beer.
They compost all of their organic waste for use in an onsite organic green house. They use moorings instead of anchors wherever possible, and have worked with the police to help protect the reef from illegal fishing practices (such as fish bombs, and cyanide), which has directly helped the reef in areas near our resort to start regenerating from previous damage.
One of the staff speared a 20-kilo dogtooth tuna only a few weeks back. It’s the kind of thing that happens daily, so be sure to bring your fishing froth.
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region2 mentawais
kandui villas
No surfer’s life is complete without a visit to Mentawais, and this is the resort if you want to do it in style; a place where you can bring partners or family along for the ride and there’s no way they’ll get bored when you’re out shredding. The stats Kandui Villas was established by the founders of Kandui Resort, in partnership with a group of Indonesians and Americans with many decades of experience. The new owners have built ‘the ultimate upmarket surf resort’, opening May 30, 2011. Kandui Villas is located in an area known as ‘Playgrounds’, just South of Siberut in the Mentawais Island chain.
Tailor-made for you? You want to surf the world’s best waves and live it up a little at the same time. It’s all about surf, surf and more surf. The Ments is known as “surfing’s playground”, after all. There’s even a little tree-huggin’ hippie inside you somewhere and you’re down for some organic livin’ in your escape too.
Gimme the basics, real quick The villas are designed to accommodate up to 48 people, but mostly for non-surfers, wives, children, girlfriends, etc, to keep the crowds in the surf down to a minimum. Rooms boast air-con, hot water, mini bar, bathroom facilities, and house phone. Kandui Villas also has a large infinity-edge swimming pool surrounded by a massive wooden deck, which connects to a pool-side bar and games room, and two-story restaurant.
bragging rights Plenty of big names have called through Kandui over the years, including Ozzie Write, Josh Kerr, Tom Carroll, Shane Dorian, Jack Johnson, and Kelly Slater, to name only a few. Remember A Fly in the Champagne, featuring Kelly Slater, and Andy Irons (R.I.P)? All filmed at Kandui.
extra action
expedition essentials
The nearby jungle in Siberut is home to the indigenous Mentawai people, many of whom still live by ancient tribal, hunter-gather traditions, and jungle tours are available by special request. They’ve also got volleyball, billiards, ping-pong, snorkelling, board games, a rad library, satellite television and the fastest Interweb connection in the Ments.
hardware: Take along whatever boards you feel most comfortable on. Most people bring a short board, a mid size board, and one for bigger surf, but mid-sized boards are likely to get the most use. non-surf items: Lappy, iPod and some reading material. medical: Kandui Villas maintains a first aid kit, and will have a doctor, or medic on site most of the time. Inoculations are recommended for travel to the Mentawais, although they’ve had no cases of Malaria, or other disease outbreaks in the seven years they’ve been on the island.
5
of the best
waves you want to ride
Kandui Right In short? Otherwise known as Rifles, this could be one of the best rights in the world. Heaviness? 6/10 Fun? 10/10 Crowds? Low. Suits? Anyone looking for the best tube ride of his or her life. Kandui Left In short? Otherwise known as Nokandui this fast tube is a major adrenaline rush. Heaviness? 10/10 Fun? 10/10 Crowds? Small. Suits? Intermediate to advanced surfers.
pic: billy morris
4-Bobs In short? Another gem that’s suitable for just about anyone who can catch a wave, stand up, and bottom turn. Heaviness? 3/10 Fun? 9/10 Crowds? Average of four surfers when it’s on. Suits? Everyone. Playgrounds Left and Right In short? Long, easy left, providing good times for all! Heaviness? 2/10 Fun? 8/10 Crowds? Low. Suits? Everyone.
included in the cost
not included
where do I sign?
Luxury Uma accommodations, all meals, and non-alcoholic drinks with meals, welcome drinks, speed boat transportation to over 20 breaks depending on the conditions, and one traditional Mentawai Shaman ceremony.
Alcoholic beverages, Internet, spa services, fishing excursions, surfboard rentals, souvenirs and jungle tours.
Contact their exclusive Aussie agent, Ian Lyon from Atoll Travel, ian@atolltravel.com. He’ll be able to answer all your questions.
Baby Kandui In short? A left or right that suits all levels of surfers depending on the conditions. Heaviness? 5/10 Fun? 8/10 Crowds? Miniscule. Suits? Everyone.
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time in transit
surf season stats
perfect match
culture conscious
open door
in the air: Oz to KL 8hrs (stopover) KL to Padang 1hr on the ground: Padang to Ambu Ambu Ferry 45 mins on the water: Ambu Ambu Ferry to Sikakap Port, Overnight 12hrs Sikakap Port to Macaronis Resort 1hr by speedboat.
prime time: March to October can get waves: Rest of year round
Most staff are Indonesian, hailing from the Ments, Sumatra and Java. There is usually one surf guide, one owner-resident and one videographer at the resort responsible for hosting guests during the peak season and a large variety of peeps visit, with about 35% of guests being return customers.
Local villagers are friendly and accommodating, but its always advised to wear a T-shirt when visiting a populated area and only use your right hand. Keep in mind also that visitors to Silabu should respect local tourism laws designed to encourage sustainable tourism in the area. The local village manages two boat moorings in Macaronis Bay, charter boats usually need to book a mooring in advance, so remember to make sure your boat is booked at the beginning of your trip to secure your preferred days surfing Macas.
Everyone’s welcome, and they have plenty of families, couples, singles, and groups comprised of both surfers and non-surfers.
macas resort in its prime before the tsunami; the new design will offer a larger main building with elevated bedrooms and entertainment area downstairs and around the lagoon swimming pool.
get your grits
sustainable shredding
ch ch changes
Three epic meals a day should keep you fuelled for smashing out plenty of time in the water. Start with a cold buffet continental breakfast (with a choice of hot breakfast options). For lunch and dinner the menu is written up on the board daily and people can inquire about other options if they’d prefer something different to suit their diet. Local Padang food, or freshly caught Chilli Mud Crab are their specialities and there are a selection of beers and wines available at extra cost, of course. Drinking water, tea coffee and juices are available free of charge. Alcohol at standard prices.
Most cans and bottles are recycled and as much local produce as possible is sourced to avoid additional transport costs, while also supporting the local village economy.
They no longer use the Indies Explorer inclusive in their packages. Instead – to offer some variety during the trip – they now operate aluminium 6.8m and 7.3m speedboats (plus three other small aluminum runabouts for local transfers). Greenbush is a favourite wave, as is Roxies, Thunders, Rags and Bat Cave. Occasional trips are made to Lances depending on weather and preference of our guests.
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region2 mentawais
macaronis resort
What do you do when your resort – which is situated on the doorstep of one of the world’s best and most consistent waves – gets wasted by a tsunami? You rebuild him! Make him bigger, stronger, and more robust. And that’s exactly what the team at Macaronis are in the process of doing right now. Tailor-made for you? Sometimes you lie awake at night, staring at the ceiling, counting not sheep, but shreddable left hand pits with wackable walls to boot. Chances are you’re dreaming of Macaronis, that most consistent of Mentawaian lefts that you’ve no doubt seen on many a DVD and in many mag. Lucky for you, they weathered the storm in 2010 and await your arrival in 2011!
Gimme the basics, real quick Although they can’t turn out exact numbers yet, they’re in the process of working towards 16 private suites on the second level of the main building for each of their visiting surfer guests, each with air-conditioning, a queen-sized bed and private ensuite bathroom, as well as other modern facilities.
The stats Mark Loughran founded Macas resort back in the year 2003, and although there’s been some dilution of ownership since the October 25 tsunami, Mark said they’ve been fortunate to move forward with rebuilding, thanks to the support of many of their past and future guests, and some new members of the Macaronis Resort family. The new construction plan involves finishing off the lagoon-style swimming pool located next to the main building and landscaping around it. The initial objective is to remodel the main building, which in the future will offer 16 private suites over-looking the swimming pool, Silabu tidal lagoon and Macaronis Bay. The second floor, elevated 8m above sea level and left undamaged by the October 25 tsunami, is being renovated, expanded from 14m to 27m in diameter, making room for new guest suites and resulting in a more robust and compact structure; also offering peace of mind in the event of a future tsunami.
5
of the best
extra action
expedition essentials
Tours of Silabu or Betamonga Village are popular. It’s also worth trying some traditional Padang food either in Sikakap or Padang while passing through these towns. Sea kayaking in the lagoon is a favourite, trawling for various fish varieties, snorkelling, stand up paddle boarding, island exploring, crocodile spotting, table tennis, and billiards. There’s plenty to keep you entertained, not to mention the 1.5km white sandy beach nearby, which is ideal for swimming, jogging or working up a suntan.
hardware: Two short boards and a medium sized board. You don’t need big boards in the Mentawais, especially at Macaronis. non-surf items: iPod, sunscreen, camera/video camera and a travel insurance policy are all necessary non-surf items. medical: Medivac procedure is up to individual travel insurance policy. They’ve had people evacuated by helicopter before using “Cover More” travel insurance in Australia, whom they recommend (www.covermore.com.au). Inoculations should be discussed with a health professional, however in the past six years, no one has caught Malaria whilst staying at Macaronis Resort in the past six years.
waves you want to ride
Macaronis In short? Incredibly consistent, perfect, long and rippable. Can be the funnest wave of your life if smaller, can be a scary, dredging, hollow beast when bigger. Always fun and only five mins speedboat from camp. Heaviness? Up to 8/10 Fun? 7/10 Crowds? Can be busy, 16-20 tops. Suits? Intermediate upwards. Maccas Right In short? A more mellow option when compared with Maccas. Five minutes from camp. Heaviness? 7/10 Fun? 8/10 Crowds? Six-to-eight people max. Suits? Everyone. Silabu Left In short? Fun, forgiving left and a good warm up for some of the other Macas spots. Heaviness? 6/10 Fun? 8/10 Crowds? Six-to-eight people max. Suits? All skill levels.
what’s new?
where do I sign?
Since April 2010 the Mentawai Govt. have implemented a maximum two boat rule for visiting Teluk Pasongan, more commonly known as Macaronis Bay. All visiting boats are required to use the two moorings provided to regulate the number of surfers in the bay and to promote sustainable co-existence between Macaronis Resort and the charter boats that operate in Mentawai. This ensures that all surfers visiting Macaronis get a fair go to surf the wave, regardless of whether they are young old, pro or intermediate. This has resulted in a positive atmosphere in the line up with surfers sharing the wave rather than fighting over it.
Hit their website www.macaronisresort.com or contact booking office direct by emailing mark@macaronisresort.com. Prices range from AUD$2250 for eight days/nine nights, or AUD$3600 for 15 days/16 nights. Non-surfer and kids rates are also available. Full Resort bookings are also available at a discounted rate (please inquire). Additional Note: To inquire about ownership in the new Macaronis Resort, please
Greenbush In short? Mesmerizing left-hand barrels, 30 mins by speedboat. Heaviness? Can be up to 10/10 Fun? 8/10 Crowds? Six-to-eight max, unless word gets out early. Suits? Advanced tube junkies. Bat Cave In short? Long, fun point-break style wave, suited for longboarders, or those wanting some length of ride to link some fun, easy turns together. Heaviness? 7/10 Fun? 8/10 Crowds? Six-to-eight people max. Suits? Intermediate up.
contact mark@macaronisresort.com
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mentawais
region2
directory
Patience, my pretties! pic: agustin munoz
OPERATOR LOCATION AGENT
Coconuts Mentawaii D’bora Surf Charters Peluru Indo Odyssey Saraina Koat Charterboats Botik Resort Santa Lusia Charters Addiction Charters Arimbi Barrenjoey Charters Bintang Huey 1 Aileoita Charters Aloita Resort Kandui Resort Star Koat 1 Charters Kuda Laut Melaleuca Kandui Villas Naga Laut Nusa Dewata Nusantara Quest 1 Pitstop hill Surging Waters Tengirri Wavepark resort Electric Lamb Macaronis Surf Resort Siloinak Island Resort Togat Nusa Retreat Indies Trader 4 The Oasis The Nusantara
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mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais Mentawais
PW, STC PW PW STC WS PW, STC, AT STC AT STC, PW PW, FRE PW, FRE STC WS FRE FRE WS, PW AT PW PW, STC, FRE, GO PW, FRE STC, WS , AT direct direct PW, STC, FRE PW PW, AT GO WS direct PW PW, FRE
KEY WWW. WS PW STC AT FRE KEY GO
World Surfaris The Perfect Wave Surf Travel Company Atoll Travel Freeline Indonesian Surf Adventures Surf The Earth Go Tours
worldsurfaris.com theperfectwave.com.au surftravel.com.au atolltravel.com.au freelinesurf.com surftheearth.com.au
WS PW STC AT FRE GO SST
World Surfaris The Perfect Wave Surf Travel Company Atoll Travel Freeline Indonesian Surf Adventures Surf The Earth Go Tours Snow and Surf Travel
www.worldsurfaris.com www.theperfectwave.com.au www.surftravel.com.au www.atolltravel.com.au www.freelinesurf.com www.surftheearth.com.au www.snowsurftravel.com.au
disclaimer: This list is intended to showcase all known operators in select regions and match them with reputable Australian agents that represent them. It was compiled in consultation with major Australian agents, and to the best of our ability and knowledge. It is as accurate as possible at the time of going to press (March 2011) and does not purport to be a complete final representation of all operators and all agents in all regions at any time. But it’s a bloody great source of reference and a useful starting point. Suggestion: Check the directory on the Travel Bible mini site located on www.surfinglife.com.au for direct links and up-to-date contact info. Request: If you are a reputable operator or agent and have been left out of this directory, send your details and credentials for consideration in next year’s edition to craig@morrisonmedia.com.au
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Surf Travel Company New Destinations Madagascar French Polynesia (Tahiti, Moorea and the Tuamotu’s)
Philippines Sri Lanka
enquiries@surftravel.com.au
02 9222 8870
Surf Travel Company
Talk to the experts. surftravel.com.au
travel bible editor nick lawrence’s get rich quick scheme Just over the ditch from England lies the Emerald Isle. After a couple of weeks smashing placebos you’ll be able to afford a few months in a van getting stuck into a far sweeter kind of medicine. pic: lawrence
lab rat living
Here’s the reality. You walk in. You sit on your arse for one-to-three weeks. You do absolutely nothing. That’s a requirement right there; no physical activity, whatsoever. You walk out. What’s changed? Just the sweet £2000 pounds sterling (about 4k AUD) in your pocket, soon to be exchanged for flights, foreign flags and fun times. What’s the catch? The occasional heart palpitation or finger falling off? Allow me to elaborate… I’ve always had a taste for travel, but haven’t we all? That nomadic gene is about as common in surfers as techno in Berlin; that constant daydreaming of far away lands, wild frontiers, brave new worlds, and of course, new and exciting waves to slide. The main differentiating factor is how far each of us will go to fulfill these soapbox dreams of adventure. What God-awful things would you do? How many dishes would you wash? What degrading, soul-destroying tasks would you endure? How long could you stand working for a boss like David Brent? How much sin can you live with?! It was some Australian buddies that first introduced me to the infamous
asl travel bible 048
“med trials”; two or three good mates that I’d met on past travels abroad. Previously, I’d been happy to work summer jobs to fund my travels. Dish-pigging at a local restaurant, life-guarding the local beaches while the waves were shite. A splash of surf coaching here and there. They all faded to distant memories once I caught wind of this ingenious concept. These guys would fly to London, all amped up for European adventures, but skint as all hell and psyched to get PAID in the quickest and easiest way possible. Enter the med trials… Once I was introduced to the concept, I obviously had my reservations. What are the risks? Are there any side-effects? The fellas were nonchalant
detour
and brushed aside my concerns quickly with some true “this is the bottom line” advice. “You chill in a bed for two weeks, you walk out with as much cash as you’d probably save doing a whole summer washing dishes”. Call me a pushover, but it was all I needed to hear. From that day forward, “the trials” proceeded to fund the next four years of my life, from age 17 to 21. Hawaii, Tahiti, Indonesia, America, The Canary Islands, Scotland, Ireland; the world was my oyster. Most of my stints were pretty standard; two weeks, for about £2000 squid (GBP), but I’d heard of guys getting more. I knew of one mate that did a 35-day trial for £3200 (the equivalent of about $7,000 AUD back then!), which just seems crazy for sitting around… The drugs we tested varied a bunch, from asthma drugs, to blood thinning and diabetes pills. We did hear of a few dodgy stories, but ignorance can indeed be bliss on that front. The worse we’d heard of was a pretty well-publiscised incident, and
definitely on the hectic side of things. Apparently they fucked up the dosages and turned all the subjects into mutants. Swollen heads. Fingers falling off. It was pretty dark, some scary shit. Then I had a bit of a scare myself. They constantly have heart monitors on you, and one night when I was sleeping I had some kind of heart palpitation, so they took my straight off the trial and did a heap of tests. Apparently it was totally normal for me, and I ended up getting paid a lot more than usual, but it was the straw that broke the camel’s back for me. Ignorance was no longer bliss. Like I said in the beginning, it all comes down to your perspective on things and how much risk you’re prepared to live with. If you’ve got yourself a lappy, some HBO series, a hard drive full of movies and online access, those two weeks can fly by. Hell, by the team you walk out, all cashed up (and with all your limbs intact, of course), you can have your itinerary for the next few months set in stone. The hot nurses certainly make up for the needles too.
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North Narrabeen lifeguard and charger Sean Woolnough on a precarious Fijian treadmill. He got over this one. “Super lucky” reckons photographer Stu Gibson.
screaming reels, BLUSTERY trades, parked in passes, GLASS-BOTTOM BARRELS, polynesian pathfinders.. asl travel bible 050
pacific
region3
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time in transit
surf season stats
perfect match
culture conscious
open door
in the air: East coast Oz to Port Moresby 4hrs Port Moresby to Kavieng 1.5 hrs on the ground: Kavieng to PNG Explorer 5 mins once aboard: Sailing until first surfable break 6 hours
prime time: December to March in season: October, November & April don’t bother: May to September
50-60% of guests are returning customers. Of the eight crew onboard the Explorer, four are PNG locals.
Be sure to respect the locals’ way of life and traditions. Dress is modest for women especially (bikinis are sweet on the vessel, but not on the island). Best to keep alcohol consumption to PNG Surfaris vessels only.
The PNG Explorer can accommodate up to four non-surfing guests with their maximum of eight surfers on board. It’s child friendly, and also a good option for female surfers, with mellow waves and no crowds.
get your grits
sustainable shredding
cast away
included in the cost
Fresh bread baked daily and an onboard barista to keep you high on caffeine, as well as on life. Specialty dishes include the Captain’s sundown sashimi, a traditional lamb roast and barbequed lobster.
All plastics, cans and containers are recycled. All organics are disposed offshore, all other waste disposed responsibly in landfill – the region benefits as all fresh produce is sourced locally.
The fishing weighs in really well with 5 to 20kg spanish mackerel being most common. Yellow fin tuna, Wahoo and sizey GT’s also get reels screaming and the heart pumping. All fish are cooked up and guest catches are often on the menu.
All meals, snacks, soft drinks and bottled water are included, plus two beers per day. Use of all recreational and fishing gear, kayaks, SUP and snorkeling is also at no extra charge. PNG FS tee, laundry, airport transfers and surf transfers.
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region3 pacific
PNG FRONTIER SURFARIS
Think most boat trips these days include hordes of other charters rocking up at the same spots? Many might, this one does not. If fun, uncrowded surf in a perfect and untouched location sounds up your alley, read on. The stats PNG FS is based in Kavieng, New Ireland Province – the island region of Papau New Guinea. It operates from Kavieng to the outer islands of New Ireland. Established 2006 by Andrew and Jude Rigby. The first surf charter vessel of its kind in PNG. Their new vessel – the PNG Explorer – is still New Ireland’s only dedicated surf and dive live-aboard.
Tailor-made for you? Put simply, PNG is perfect for the avid explorer wanting to escape the crowds in comfort and style, with just a few mates. Variety is the spice of PNG life too, with a diverse range of right and left set-ups. From peeling point breaks, to blowout barrels, there’s something to suit everyone.
Gimme the basics, real quick There’s accommodation for 12 guests, but a limit of surfers to eight onboard. All twin share rooms boast standard size beds. Rooms are serviced daily. There’s full air-con, sat phone, huge outdoor dining table to seat 14. Indoor lounge/entertainment area has comfy lounge, bean bags, board games, plus a large movie and book selection. The vessel also runs two high-speed tenders, so groups can split the breaks, or surf, or fish.
local knowledge The PNG Explorer accesses a number of areas managed by the surf management plan (Niu Ailan Surfriders Alliance, www.surfingpngnewireland.org.pg), designed to maintain the surfing numbers at a manageable 15. They also now charter to a chain of islands (which we will keep unnamed) that are ONLY accessed by the PNG Explorer. There, you are assured no other surfers with 9 amazing breaks at your fingertips. Plus you have Explorer’s own dedicated surf guide/ instructor to ensure you’re always in the best spot.
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expedition essentials
River trips and guided island tours are the most popular non-surf activity. There are also stunning waterfalls, local singing/dancing displays and snorkelling at WW2 shipwrecks or pristine reefs. Game fishing is also popular – from marlin, to mackerel and tuna.
hardware: Shortboard and a fish would be ideal, plus a longboard if you like to get your log on. BYO small ding repair kit. non-surf items: Sunscreen, insect repellent, first aid and any of your own meds. medical: Guests must have emergency medical evacuation insurance before they step on board. Anti-malaria inoculations are also necessary.
5
of the best
waves you want to ride
Valavala In short? Friendly and super-fun righthander for all abilities, with 30-to-40metre rides. Heaviness? 3/10 Fun? 8/10 Crowds? Usually PNG Surfaris guests only. Suits? Everyone. Korangai In short? A button of reef in the middle of a bay, with a well-shaped barrel. Heaviness? 7/10 Fun? 9/10 Crowds? Usually PNG Surfaris guests only. Suits? Intermediate level surfers and upwards. Malilli In short? A picture-perfect left-hand point break, only 300 metres from Valavala and Korangai. Heaviness? 3/10 Fun? 8/10 Crowds? Usually PNG Surfaris guests only. Suits? Everyone. Apostles In short? Left-hand point breaking on a super-fun flat bed of rock. Heaviness? 4/10 Fun? 8/10 Crowds? ONLY PNG Surfaris guests. Suits? Everyone.
not included
where do I sign?
Diving, beer over the daily quota, Aussie beers and wine.
Going to www.pngsurfaris.com is the easiest way to book. The latest rates and schedule are available on the website. 2011/2012 rates are from $2890 AUD for seven nights, or $3490 AUD for 10 nights per surfer (ex flights). You can also book through: www.worldsurfaris.com www.theperfectwave.com.au
Nuggets In short? Long right-hand point break; up to 100 metres of tubes and walls on offer. Heaviness? 4/10 Fun? 8/10 Crowds? ONLY PNG Surfaris guests. Suits? Everyone.
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time in transit
surf season stats
perfect match
culture conscious
open door
in the air: East coast Oz to Nadi airport 4hrs on the ground: Nadi airport to resort 2hrs
prime time: June to September can get waves: All year ’round! Summer cyclone swells and the rights fire up with tropical glassy conditions. Winter with the SE trade winds and solid ocean SW swells is heaven for goofy footers.
Approximately 20-30% of guests are returning customers, with heaps of referrals. All staff (excluding the owners) are Fijian, the majority coming from the local village.
Women must cover their shoulders in villages and are not to wear pants or shorts. Neither sex is to wear hats in villages. Best bet is to take a staff guide with you, so as to remain safe and unobtrusive.
Half the guests are usually nonsurfing and the aim is to maintain this ratio (sounds good to us!) There’s a real family focus too, meaning everyone wins.
get your grits
sustainable shredding
cast away
included in the cost
The resort offers a diverse, allinclusive, three-meals-a-day menu. Start with a cooked continental breaky, lunch it up with anything from beef stir fry on crispy noodles to sesame seed crumbed tofu with garden salad, and round out your day with some sunset snacks, followed by a three-course meal with your choice of main.
It ain’t called an Eco Resort for nothin’, and the team at Matanivusi Beach have worked hard for their eco tourism rating. There’s been minimal clearing, with the resort largely built above ground using post and beam construction. All timber is plantation timber. They use gas for hot water and tank water all ’round, as well as a biolytix waste water management system to drip feed irrigation. They’ve also switched to four-stroke engines for their Frigates boats to minimise environmental impact.
The fishing weighs in well, with 5kg trevally, emperors and coral cod being very common. All fish are cooked up and guest catches are often on the menu.
Architecturally designed beachfront accommodation, three meals per day and use of all resort facilities (SUP, kayaks, snorkel gear etc) and boat trips to local surf breaks, for snorkelling and fishing in the local area.
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region3 pacific
MATANIVUSI BEACH ECO RESORT
Planning the ultimate surfing holiday with others has always been riddled with compromise; that dirty word, which basically means doing things you don’t want to. Thankfully, Matanivusi Beach Eco Resort says, “compromise no more, friends”. Catering for everyone’s desires – coupled with a surf-your-brains out focus, of course – they provide all the answers to all your getaway quandaries. The stats Matanivusi BER is located on the Coral Coast of Fiji, around the SW corner of Fiji’s Veti Levu island. Founders Brian and Donna McDonald have been living in Fiji for 14 years now, and realised a lifelong dream when they established the resort almost four years back (striking a deal with the local Vananiu elders around a Kava bowl, no less).
Tailor-made for you? You’re the kind of guy who wants to get away from it all and shred yourself silly. You don’t mind the thought of a tropical holiday either, and being the generous soul you are you know the latter will put a smile on the dial of your significant other (and/or kids). Does a short, four-hour flight seal the deal, per chance?
Gimme the basics, real quick The “wow” factor is applied everywhere.. location, buildings, service, surf boats. It’s a resort not a surf camp! MBER has eight rooms ( 2 more under construction) so it caters to a maximum of 16 guests . Rooms are stylish and individual, with absolute beach frontage and a focus on keeping the partners happy.
local knowledge With the recent “Fiji Govt Surfing Decree”, Matanivusi now has access to a couple of new spots this season. There’s a mechanical right-hander called Serua, which has an easy, fat takeoff before doubling up and jacking on the inside allowing you to backdoor the bowl section. Brian tells us of a few other sneaky spots as well.
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expedition essentials
Village visits to show how the locals live and visiting the local pre-school. In keeping with the eco vibe, there are also plantation-walks to look at all the medicinal plants, explaining how and why they farm, and how it all works. No shortage of non-surf activities either, including waterfall walks, ping-pong, SUP tours up the rivers, kayaks, snorkelling and fishing.
hardware: Shortboard and a wider fishy board are recommended. A larger, semi-gun could serve you well on the larger, punchy days too. non-surf items: A camera for the memories and a sense of adventure to make the most of your stay. medical: All staff are trained in first-aid and a medical centre is only three kms away. No inoculations are advised currently; it’s very safe with no malaria and minimal mosquitoes. Heli evacuation is available, but has never been needed.
5
of the best
waves you want to ride
Shifties In short? Only a short boat ride from the resort, this predominant right is very consistent, peaky and can be surfed on all tides. Heaviness? 6/10 (depending on swell size) Fun? 7/10 Crowds? No crowds, still secret spots that need boat access and local knowledge. Suits? Intermediate level of surfer and up. J’s In short? Also a short boat ride from the resort, this hollow, fast right-hander is best on high tide. Heaviness? 7/10 (depending on swell size) Fun? 7/10 Crowds? No crowds, still secret spots that need boat access and local knowledge. Suits? Intermediate level of surfer and up. Pipe Also a short boat ride from the resort, this short and barelling left-hander is best on high tide. Heaviness? 7/10 (depending on swell size) Fun? 7/10 Crowds? No crowds, still secret spots that need boat access and local knowledge. Suits? Intermediate level of surfer and up.
not included
where do I sign?
Trips out to Frigates are $50 Fijian per head, with a minimum of three peeps required. Any booze is also extra.
Best bet for booking is direct via www.surfingfiji.com. Listed with all major surf travel agencies in Australia, (Surf Travel Company, World Surfaris, Atoll Travel) WaterWays Travel in the States and Om Tours in Japan. Cost is all inclusive apart from transfers, bar tab and trips to Frigates.
Frigates In short? Situated 20 km off-shore, this world-class wave rivals Cloudbreak for, size, power and consistency. Can produce a long, workable wall, a heaving barrel and everything in between. Heaviness? Anywhere from 5-10/10, depending on swell size. Fun? Anywhere from 5-10/10, depending on swell size. Crowds? Not exclusive to resort guests, but even on crowded days it is less crowded than a perfect day at your local. Suits? Intermediate level of surfer and up. UM... NOT TELLING Nup, you’ll have to visit to find out for yourself, friends.
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time in transit
surf season stats
perfect match
culture conscious
open door
in the air: East coast Oz to Nadi airport 4hrs on the ground: Nadi airport to resort (car and boat) 1hr35mins
bigger: March to November can get waves: rest of the year round
With 70% of guests being return business, it’s highly likely that you’re going to leave a happy camper (or not want to leave at all!). 99% of staff are indigenous to the area, making for a truly Fijian experience.
There are no cultural sensitivities to be aware of on Tavarua Island, only if visiting villages on the mainland.
Tavarua is set up with families and children in mind and you can feel safe as houses leaving the kids on the island solo. They offer inexpensive childcare and discounts for children under 15 accompanying adults, not to mention a swag of activities for kids of all ages.
get your grits
sustainable shredding
cast away
included in the cost
Healthy cuisine is provided buffet style for all meals, including breakfast, lunch and dinner. They pride themselves on great food, so when each meal is announced with the blowing of the Davui shell, all you need to do is bring your appetite.
All their waste water is ran through their waste water treatment system and the end by-product is odorless and bacteria/nutrient free. All their toilets run on salt water and they have moorings installed around the island and at each surf spot (no anchors are used on the reefs).
With a 25kg Giant Trevally and 35kg Wahoo being the biggest recent hauls, it’s fishing even Old Gregg’d be getting down with.
Three meals per day and use of all resort facilities (SUP, kayaks, snorkel/fishing gear etc). Boat use for daily trips, plus any number of sporting activities. There’s a tennis court, basketball, an air-conditioned gym, a swimming pool and Jacuzzi, and even a skate ramp. Arrival and departure boat transfers from the mainland also included.
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region3 pacific
tavarua island resort
With an unrivalled position that puts them closest to the legendary Cloudbreak and Restaurants, you could say Tavarua Island Resort is holding pocket aces at all times. In their words, they aim to offer “great waves, great ocean-based activities, great food, great staff and great atmosphere; a true Fijian experience”. The stats Tavarua Island is located off the SW coast of Viti Levu, Fiji, on a 24-acre island. Druku’s Clan (the owners of Tavarua) along with Dave Clark and Scott Funk founded the camp back in 1983, with a vision to develop a sustainable eco-surf resort with the native community.
Tailor-made for you? What do you want from your vacation? You want to DO STUFF! Of course you want pumping waves, but if it’s not good every day you want to keep active. Tennis, fishing, a spot of diving, perhaps? It’d be nice to leave the wife and kids to their own devices without any drama too. Does a luxurious tropical island setting seal the deal?
Gimme the basics, real quick Having been in business over 26 years now, the Tavarua Island Resort crew know these waters and waves intimately, and they pride themselves on delivering a safe and guided surf and water-sport experience. Regular and family-size bures (rooms) are available and all come with AC, ceiling fans and private bathrooms.
bragging rights It’s next to impossible to nail down best-ever sessions at Cloudbreak and Restaurants; such is its revered and longstanding place in surfing history. Magazines and videos are littered with almost all the great surfers you can think of attacking the joint at one time or another over the past 20 years.
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expedition essentials
Plenty on offer when the surf’s not pumping, including tennis, basketball, shredding the skate ramp, snorkelling, fishing or SUP paddlin’. Getting bored will be the least of your concerns, that’s for sure. Scuba diving is also popular, as are Sigatoka River Cruises. Scuba diving is also popular for certified divers.
hardware: Ideal quiver would combine the lot, including a small performance board, medium big-wave board and large gun, or longboard. BYO ding repair kit too. non-surf items: Sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat. It gets toasty! medical: There are top-notch medical facilities on the island and a medivac procedure in place for when necessary. No inoculations currently required.
5
of the best
waves you want to ride
Cloudbreak In short? Infamous Fijian left only a 10-minute boat ride from your doorstep. Pack your figs and prepare to get shacked! Heaviness? 8/10 Fun? 10/10 Crowds? This is the place peeps come to score. Usually at least 15 cats in the water though. Suits? Advanced surfers. Restaurants In short? If Cloudbreak is the main meal in these parts, this racy left is your goodsized entrée, with some long, long barrels to be had. Heaviness? 8/10 Fun? 9/10 Crowds? Anywhere between 10 and 20 when it’s on. Suits? Intermediate to advanced and up. Namotu Left In short? Also a short boat ride from the resort, this long, open faced wall sometimes has a hollow section. Heaviness? 6/10 Fun? 10/10 Crowds? Average of 10-to-15 surfers. Suits? Beginner to advanced depending on the day.
not included
where do I sign?
Any bar expenses, or boutique items. Telephone and Internet services are also additional costs. Tavarua has supplies for ding repair and offer this service at additional cost.
See www.tavarua.com for more info on this glorious place. Stays are from Saturday to Saturday for seven nights are $2,525 AUD + international airfares to Nadi. Your best bet for booking is via one of the two options: Atoll Travel Toll Free: 1800 622 310 Local: +61(03) 5682 1088 ian@atolltravel.com
WaterWays Surf Adventures 001 310 584 9900 sean@waterwaystravel.com
Swimming Pools In short? More playful rights than you can poke a stick at, and perfect for when you want a break from Cloudbreak and Retaurants’ size and power. Heaviness? 5/10. Fun? 10/10. Crowds? Average of six-to-eight surfers. Suits? Beginner to advanced depending on day. Wilkes Pass In short? Rights that provide a happy medium between the fun and the fear. Heaviness? 7/10. Fun? 10/10. Crowds? Average of 10-12 riders. Suits? Intermediate level of surfer and up.
asl travel bible 057
pics courtesy: namotu/stu gibson
time in transit
surf season stats
perfect match
culture conscious
open door
in the air: East coast Oz to Nadi airport 4hrs on the ground: Nadi airport to resort (car and boat) 1hr35mins
bigger: March to November can get waves: rest of the year round
75% of guests are return business and although Namotu is owned and operated by Aussies, 99% of staff are indigenous to the area, making for a truly Fijian experience.
Although there are no cultural sensitivities to be aware of on Namotu, if you’re visiting villages on the mainland you’ll need appropriate attire; cover up and no hats allowed.
Namotu in general is not set up to accommodate kids. Think of it as the perfect place to escape some of life’s responsibilities (including your grommies!) and treat yourself to the upscale bar, restaurant, lounge private island experience that is Namotu.
get your grits
sustainable shredding
cast away
included in the cost
With international chefs on rotation, you know you’re likely to get some good gritting. They serve a cold breakfast early, and a hot breakfast later. Lunch, appetizers, dinner and desert provide a wide variety of food options; lots of beef, chicken, fish, prawns, sushi, pasta, salads and rice, etc.
The island utilises water catchment for all water purposes including showers, toilets, sinks and drinking water. There is a contained septic system, which is pumped every four months to be certain no “leach fields” could damage the island or local reefs.
Some Rex Hunt style hauls have gone down in the past, so you’d best be prepared for a fight. A 600lb Marlin and a 140lb Yellowfin Tuna!? What are they putting in the water over there?
Just about everything. Accommodation, airport transfers, all your meals, water, tea, coffee, all surf transfers whenever/ wherever you want to go, snorkelling, kayaking, fishing, and SUP use. The island has satellite TV for sports and news, a beautiful bar/restaurant, swimming pool, pool table, ping pong, darts, Jacuzzi, hammocks and karaoke to get your sing on.
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region3 pacific
NAMOTU
Namotu Left is straight out front, and the legendary Cloudbreak and Restaurants are just around the way. Pack your bags and boards, friends. It’s time to escape the rest of the world on this private, tropical paradise. The stats Namotu Island is located off the SW coast of Viti Levu, Fiji. The camp was established in 1995 by then professional windsurfers Scott O’Connor (Australian), Mike Waltze (American) and their good mate Geoff Doig (Australian).
Tailor-made for you? You’ve got a taste on your tongue for some tropical treats and an island getaway. Possibly, you’re a goofy-footer with a keenness to test yourself in some sizeable salt at Cloudbreak or Restaurants, but wouldn’t mind some leisurely cruising on the more mellow waves Namotu Left and Pools wrapping either side of the island. Short flights from Oz and a location that will keep the missus smilin’; are you sold yet?
Gimme the basics, real quick Originally intended to be a windsurfing camp – as Scott and much of the Maui crew had been coming to Fiji for years to windsurf. However, over time the windsurfing quickly took a back seat to surfing. Namotu has accommodation for up to 24 guests in a variety of villas and bures (bungalows), which are nicely furnished and air-conditioned with private bathrooms, hot/cold running water and bangin’ views.
bragging rights A group came through back in May 2006 under the name of Hanch – a crew of 35-60 year-old guys, all who were good surfers – scoring a 15-20foot swell (on the face) with perfect conditions and mostly surfing Namotu Left. They made such a good video from the trip they ended up playing it in a couple of the smaller coastal cinemas in Southern California. This could be you, people!
extra action
expedition essentials
Take time to relax if the swell skips out for a day or two. Hop on a village tour on the mainland, or just chill around the camp. There’s fishing, snorkelling and massage all at your fingertips.
hardware: Ideal quiver would combine the lot, including a small performance board, medium big-wave board and large gun, or longboard. BYO ding repair kit too, (though Namotu has ding repair materials and offers a ding repair service.) non-surf items: Sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat. It gets toasty! medical: The medical clinic is only a short ride away and a medivac procedure is in place for when necessary. No inoculations currently required.
5
of the best
waves you want to ride
Namotu Left In short? Super-close to the resort, this long left offers open-face walls suited to any craft and approach. Too much fun. Heaviness? 6/10 Fun? 10/10 Crowds? Average of 10-to-15 surfers. Suits? Beginner to advanced depending on the day. Cloudbreak In short? Infamous Fijian left only a short boat ride from camp. Pack your figs and prepare to get shacked! Heaviness? 8/10 Fun? 10/10 Crowds? This is the place peeps come to score. Usually at least 20 cats in the water though. Suits? Advanced surfers. Restaurants In short? If Cloudbreak is the main meal in these parts, this racy left is your goodsized entrée, with some long, long barrels to be had. Heaviness? 8/10 Fun? 9/10 Crowds? Anywhere between 10 and 20 when it’s on. Suits? Intermediate to advanced surfers and up.
not included
where do I sign?
It’s mostly the off island activities carry an extra charge such as the helicopter tours, scuba diving and golf. Bar tab, massage and phone calls/communications will also cost you extra. Connection to the island Wi-Fi isn’t included (but try to keep your work at home).
See www.namotuislandfiji.com for more info on this glorious place. Stays are from Saturday to Saturday for seven nights are $2,500 AUD + international airfares to Nadi. Your best bet for booking is via one of the two options: Atoll Travel Toll Free: 1800 622 310 Local: +61(03) 5682 1088 ian@atolltravel.com
WaterWays Surf Adventures 001 310 584 9900 sean@waterwaystravel.com
Swimming Pools In short? More playful rights than you can poke a stick at, and perfect for when you want a break from Cloudbreak and Retaurants’ size and power. Heaviness? 5/10. Fun? 10/10. Crowds? Average of six-to-eight surfers. Suits? Beginner to advanced depending on day. Wilkes Pass In short? Right-handers only three minutes from camp that provide a happy medium between the fun and the fear. Heaviness? 7/10. Fun? 10/10. Crowds? Average of 10-12 riders. Suits? Intermediate level of surfer and up.
asl travel bible 059
time in transit
surf season stats
perfect match
culture conscious
open door
in the air: Cairns to Guam 4.5hrs Guam to Pohnpei 3.5hrs on the ground: Short drive to camp from the airport
prime time: December-February in season: October or April can get waves: Rest of year don’t bother: May to August
With 40% of guests being return business, they must be coming back for a reason! As Dave puts it, “Most guests that come to Pohnpei Surf Club are here to enjoy a trip; one they have been dreaming of for a long time.”
Visitors are asked to respect the local culture. Men to keep their shirts on in public places and the same for girls!
Most of the travellers are surfers chasing waves, they do have alot of non surfers though too. Pohnpei has alot to offer adventurous non surfers!
get your grits
cast away
sustainable shredding
what’s included?
Although breakfast and some snacks and drinks are all that’s included in your camp costs, there are plenty of food options close by including seafood you caught yourself while out fishing, a sushi train and restaurant downstairs, and a variety of bars and restaurants from five to 15 minutes away.
Pohnpei is rife with sea life just waiting to be snagged on your line. Make sure you’re prepared for a battle though, as 300-pound Marlin and 50-pound GTs don’t just jump into the boat.
PSC know this precious resource needs some special attention to preserve it for years to come. They’re on the board of directors of the Conservation Society of Pohnpei and helped to install and maintain all the surf buoys at P-Pass and other breaks in Pohnpei, to avoid reef damage. They also do an annual surf school for kids in the summer.
Package includes all flights ex Cairns, accommodation and breakfast each morning, and all transfers on the island including all boat trips for fishing and surfing.
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region3 pacific
p o hnpei s u rf club
If you’ve ever seen photos or footage of the legendary P-pass doing its thing, you’ll know exactly why you’ve travelled a few thousand ks to arrive at this dot in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. Hell, If the best surfers in the world claim “Best Ever’s” time after time again it pretty obvious that this place is not overrated! Be prepared for your own trip of a lifetime. The stats PSC is located in Pohnpei, in the Federated States of Micronesia. That’s a tiny island in the middle of the Pacific Ocean NNE of Oz and PNG. After 10 years of Micronesian dreaming and four years of back and forths surfing the place, Allois Malfitani set the camp up back in 2004, claiming “there were too many waves going unridden and I needed people to surf with”. Go figure…
Tailor-made for you? If you’re considering a trip to PSC, chances are you’ve got one of the world’s most flawless right-hand barrels on your mind; the legendary P-Pass. More specifically you’re probably a natural-footer (or a guy who loves to pig-dog), with a penchant for getting shacked off your face. If the stars align this could be the trip of your life.
Gimme the basics, real quick The camp caters for a maximum of 18 surfers at one time, however the average number of guests is usually closer to 10. All the rooms have twin beds that can be made to doubles, and each room has a bathroom, A/C, TV, veranda, wireless, telephone and a fridge. Having the only surfer living in Pohnpei year round at your service means unmatched local knowledge too.
bragging rights Shane Dorian, Mark Mathews and Dan Ross had the best of it a few years back. The late AI, Taj Burrows, Wade Goodall, Dean Brady, Dylan Longbottom; the wrap sheet reads like a who’s who of the world’s best.
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expedition essentials
The ancient ruins of Nan Madol – a ruined city that lies off the eastern shore of the island – make for a rad flat-day expedition. There’s plenty of diving and fishing to be done between surfs, and any number of hikes to waterfalls and the like. The Rusty Anchor Bar is the perfect way to while away an afternoon and evening too.
hardware: Your normal short board and then a longer board by a couple of inches. Make sure they’re strong boards too. non-surf items: Camera and a stubby cooler. medical: Travel insurance is mandatory and the two best and biggest clinics in Pohnpei are located 200 meters from the Pohnpei Surf Club. You can see your GP with regards to inoculations, but it’s mostly very clean and safe with no malaria.
best of the best
the wave you want to ride P-PASS In short? There are many waves in Pohnpei, but the one everyone wants to surf is called “P-Pass”. It’s one of the BEST rights in the world, but can produce lefts too. Heaviness? Depends on size. 2-4ft 4/10 4-6ft 6/10 6-10ft 8/10 Fun? Again, depends on size. 2-4ft 8/10 4-6ft 10/10 6-10ft 8/10 Crowds? Average of around 10 surfers in the water. Suits? If you want to surf any reefbreak over fourfoot you need to be a good surfer, and the same applies here. Usually its two-to-fourfoot and they get six-to-eight-foot swells once or twice a week in peak season.
where do I sign? Call David at World Surfaris on 07 5599 4444 or email david@ worldsurfaris.com. Prices are around 3K AUD for 10 nights, including flights from Cairns. Prices will vary on departure date and depending on what specials they’re running, so best bet is to ask ’em for a quote!
P-pass truly is one of those waves to “surf before you die”. No doubt you’ve seen many of the sessions that have gone down, right here in ASL (check this very issue, in fact). World Surfaris’ Dave Scard has seen it all though. “The craziest session was when Shane Dorian flew over and met up with Mark Mathews and Dan Ross. It was in the massive realm; 12-foot-plus and some of the biggest and best tubes ever in Pohnpei were surfed that day. Our guests at the time were so stoked when the swell backed off to six-foot and the boys didn’t surf, leaving them to clock up some of the best waves of their lives. it’s one of the best rights in the world, and there can also be a left on the opposite side of the pass.
asl travel bible 061
pacific
region3
directory
The travelling surfer sees things few others do. pic: stu gibson
OPERATOR LOCATION AGENT Batiluva Beach Resort Matanivusi Eco Surf Resort‐Fiji Seashell @ Momi Tavarua Island Resort The Resort Walu Beach Namotu Island Resort Waidroka Bay Surf Resort Yanuca Island Resort Liquid Body Tours Kosrae Surf Tours Turtle Bay Resort Kuare Catamaran Nekweta Surf Camp Ouano Surf Camp PNG Frontier Surfaris Surf Solomon Tours New Caledonia charters Tahitian Surfaris Tiki Tu ‐ Adventures in Paradise Pohnpei Surf Club Rubio Plantation Retreat Ocean 101 Sagana Resort Cloud 9 Clem’s Place Nusa Island Retreat Lissenung Resort Tupira Surf Club Palikir Marine Adventures Beqa Lagoon Resort Funky Fish Flashpackers Musket Cove Resort Plantation Island Resort Rydges Hideaway Resort
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Fiji Fiji Fiji Fiji Fiji Fiji Fiji Fiji Phiippines Caroline islands Hawaii New Caledonia New Caledonia New Caledonia PNG Solomons New Caledonia Tahiti PNG Caroline Islands PNG Philippines Philippines PNG PNG PNG PNG N Pacific Fiji Fiji Fiji Fiji Fiji
SST WS, PW, STC, AT, GO PW, GO STC, AT STC, WS STC, AT STC, GO STC, GO PW PW PW WS, WS, PW, STC, WS, PW, STC, WS, PW PW PW direct WS, PW, WS WS, PW, GO STC STC WS, PW, STC WS STC PW PW PW PW, STC PW, STC
OPERATOR LOCATION AGENT AquaSamoa WaterSports Coconuts Beach Club Maninoa Surf Camp Salani Surf Resort Sa’Moana Resort ‐ Samoa Savaii Surfaris Sinalei Reef Resort Gizo Hotel Surf Solomon Tours Maravagi Lodge Fatboys Resort Sanbis Resort Zipolo Habu Resort Marks Place Moorea Vanira Lodge Ha’atafu Beach Resort ‐ Tonga Otuhaka Beach Resort Breakas Resort Vanuatu Nagigia Island Resort ‐ Fiji Papatura Island Retreat
Samoa Samoa Samoa Samoa Samoa Samoa Samoa Solomon Island Solomons Solomon Island Solomon Island Solomon Island Solomon Island French Polynesia Teahupoo Tonga Tonga S Pacific Fiji Solomons
GO PW, STC, GO STC PW,AT WS WS, AT STC, PW, AT GO PW GO GO PW, GO GO STC STC, PW WS GO WS PW, STC GO
KEY
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worldsurfaris.com theperfectwave.com.au surftravel.com.au atolltravel.com.au freelinesurf.com surftheearth.com.au
World Surfaris The Perfect Wave Surf Travel Company Atoll Travel Freeline Indonesian Surf Adventures Surf The Earth Go Tours
disclaimer: This list is intended to showcase all known operators in select regions and match them with reputable Australian agents that represent them. It was compiled in consultation with major Australian agents, and to the best of our ability and knowledge. It is as accurate as possible at the time of going to press (March 2011) and does not purport to be a complete final representation of all operators and all agents in all regions at any time. But it’s a bloody great source of reference and a useful starting point. Suggestion: Check the directory on the Travel Bible mini site located on www. surfinglife.com.au for direct links and up-to-date contact info. Request: If you are a reputable operator or agent and have been left out of this directory, send your details and credentials for consideration in next year’s edition to craig@morrisonmedia.com.au
Buy a TravelSIM before you leave and: enjoy low cost international roaming^ access over 190 countries with one SIM card get Australian based customer support access our live language translation service take your existing mobile phone# TravelSIM is an easy to use prepaid service, designed to greatly reduce the cost of using your mobile phone when travelling overseas. With TravelSIM you get a new number and SIM card that you place in your existing handset when you leave Australia. TravelSIM has great international roaming rates for calls, text and data and is the perfect travel companion to take overseas.
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Surf Solomon Tours
www.theperfectwave.com.au
a story in two parts by roland prianto
all pics: prianto
up the creek, with a paddle
Weak, tired, shaky, feverish, light-headed, delirious. These are all symptoms I am experiencing from the parasitic worms currently living in my liver. The scientific name is Bilharzias. I contracted the parasite on a surf trip I took six months ago. Not just a surf trip, it was more a chance to give back. Here is a story, a story of two parts; the first an adventure with a cause, the second a wave with amazing potential. It all started three years ago in a lineup somewhere in South Africa. It was there that Sydney-sider Danny Blackwell met Bondi boy Dan Berger. The two were stoked to meet each other so far from home, had a chat, shared some waves and left it at that. A year later while surfing in Bondi, the two crossed paths again, and as happens so often in life a simple coincidence created a bond of friendship. The two began discussing travels and the desire for adventure. Danny had previously done some fundraising for a couple of African charities and wanted to continue the campaign. Soon, a plan to kayak Lake Victoria was hatched; the proposal to paddle 235 kilometers from east to west, from Kenya to Uganda, crossing the second largest lake in the world unassisted; a task only one man had ever done before. Move forward another year. In a small pub in Manly, Danny and a group of friends sat and chatted over a few cold ones. It was here that I met Danny, and here he revealed his goal of paddling across Lake Victoria to me. I didn’t really know where Lake Victoria was (who does?), or, in fact, anything about it. All I knew was that it was somewhere in Africa, and that the paddle would be for a good cause, which were exactly the two personal goals I had recently set myself. The instant I heard the idea come out of Danny’s mouth, I was in. Part One “You’re going to die” was the general response we got from almost anybody we told about the trip. It didn’t seem far off, either. All we had heard about the lake were horror stories regarding huge storms, giant man-eating crocodiles, parasitic worms that bury themselves in your liver, poisonous snakes, and the deadliest animal in Africa, the hippopotamus. Not only that, but we had no proper maps of the lake beyond blurry snapshots from Google earth, had no idea if the islands were inhabited or not, and if they were, what the inhabitants would be like. We wouldn’t see the kayaks we were paddling in until the day we left for the lake, and the three of us had never actually even been in the water together. I don’t think any of us had any idea what we were getting into when we committed to it, but there we were six months later, sitting in a hostel in Nairobi, sorting through our gear just hours away from picking up the kayaks and heading to the lake. I remember thinking that all I wanted to do was get the damn kayak over with so that we could go score some untouched waves on the coast. But, the reality was we were about as far away from that little pipe dream as I had ever felt from anything. It might sound stupid, but the day we left I felt like an ancient explorer, heading out into the unknown, sailing to the edge of the world. Or at least that’s
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what I imagined they felt like. Have you ever headed out into the unknown? On a journey where there would be no turning back, or where there was a small chance you might not come back? It’s scary, but it feels good; gets the blood pumping, the mind racing, and most of all it makes you feel alive. All the fear disappeared the instant we got the boats in the water and started paddling for the hazy silhouette of our first target island. Six months of worrying and anxiety were replaced in an instant by excitement and adrenalin. The adrenaline quickly dissipated and soon there was just the silence of the lake and the constant paddle strokes – right, left, right, left – to keep us company. We all had smiles across our faces and a sense of urgency to get to the next island, but clearly the weight of anticipation had been lifted from our shoulders. We were doing it. We were paddling across Lake Victoria. The entire trip took nine days; nine days to paddle roughly 235 kilometers. There are islands every 15-30 kilometers so we were able to stop every threeto-four hours to cook lunch, rest on solid ground and soak up the experience. Sitting in a kayak paddling for four-to-eight hours a day is a long time, but we soon got into a routine, and the time flew by. Our routine was simple; wake up, cook breakfast, break camp, pack up the gear, load the boats then say goodbye to the mob of villagers who had surrounded us during the entire process. Back in the boat, we’d paddle across open water all day, ’til we arrived at a new village, with a new mob of observers asking millions of questions, cook dinner, set up camp, sleep. The most mundane tasks, and often the funniest, were the questions we had to answer every time we landed. “Where had we come from? Where were we going? What were the boats made out of?” and the most confusing for the locals, “Why were we doing it?” We would spend hours at every stop answering the questions, allowing the few English speakers in the village to translate to the others, to which the common reply was often just a simple “Aaaiieee.” It’s amazing how many meanings this simple sound can have for the East Africans (Kenya, Uganda, and Tanzania; the three countries that border Lake Victoria). Changing the pitch, length and volume of the sound could manipulate the meaning from surprise, to humour, to questioning, to even a very simple congratulations. By the end of the trip I think we could even tell the difference between them. We thought we would be remote, away from civilization and from contact with other people, but the reality was the opposite. Nearly every island, every beach and every piece of flat coastline was occupied by fishing villages. There were nights we would opt for a rocky chunk of land, or a small bird shit covered island so as to avoid the villages and the mobs, just for some peace and quiet
detour
and the chance to get out of society as we’d thought we were going to. No doubt, I think we were all quietly keen for a chance to feel like real adventurers in the wild, as well. But even on the few nights we accomplished this, visitors would come – sometimes out of nowhere – as if some sixth sense had informed them of our presence, for a chat and an explanation of our presence. Part Two There’s a big difference between surf trips and strictly travel adventures, but discovering that there was warm water and swell on the Kenyan coast, the possibility of surfing on this trip was icing on the cake. The next time you’re sitting on the Internet, watching YouTube videos of kids dancing crazy or turtles getting randy with tennis shoes, try and Google “surf in Kenya.” You’ll soon find that there isn’t much information, and the information that is out there is vague. The reality is, once you are in Kenya it’s is even harder to find and even more unclear. After over a month not spent in the surf, we were all super keen to get some waves. We arrived on the coast at five am after an eight-hour overnight bus from Nairobi and as the sun rose we were hit with a beautiful sight. The coast was completely different from the interior; you’d never realise you were in Africa. Beautiful beachside resorts and restaurants, turquoise blue water, and some of the whitest sand I had ever seen. It definitely isn’t the Africa you see on the news. The little information we could gather led us to a small town on the central coast of Kenya called Malindi. Apparently it picked up the most swell, and had the largest surfing community. Our expectations were still pretty low, although the problem isn’t swell; it’s the wind. Kenyan swells come from the Indian Ocean and unfortunately the season for swell is also the season for SE-S trade winds, which are almost always howling and completely onshore or side-shore. We scored a few decent morning sessions at the local beach break, surprisingly larger than we thought, with sets rolling through at just above head high. But we knew that with the swell size and the almost endless outer reefs, there had to be better waves around. Where was this expat surfing community, why hadn’t we seen anybody yet? When asking about the waves, all we could get from anybody was simple answers: “Not much around here,” or “better to go to Mozambique,” or “prepare to be disappointed”, and always accompanied by an air of cockiness and attitude that left us thinking, “What an arsehole.” Lucky for us, there wasn’t much else to do in this town but look for waves. After a few more days of interrogation, we learned of a consistent reef break about 2km out in the marine park. “But beware” we were warned, “the locals are pretty protective.” We would have to take a dhow (Kenyan style wooden sailboat), so we headed out once again in search of a boat captain. Again, lucky we had time
on our hands as this took another day or two to accomplish. We finally found our man and although he didn’t speak hardly any English, it was apparent that he was the guy that everybody used. We were even told when we could and couldn’t go out, depending on whether or not other surfers had reserved his boat. Nonetheless it was our only option, so we gladly took the slot allotted for us. Although not necessarily a wave that you would travel half way across the world to surf, it definitely was a long, fun, right-hand reef, with potential to be amazing. A large soft outer bowl allowed an easy takeoff and a few mushy cutbacks, and led into a fast and wally inner bowl with barrel potential. Every wave left me dreaming of what it would be like with a morning glass off and some solid swell. Obviously, I would’ve loved to keep this spot a secret were it not for all the unhelpful assholes that tried so hard to keep us from surfing it, although I doubt anybody would be rushing to the airport to buy the next available ticket to Kenya, just to surf here. Just in case you are though, head to Malindi Marine Park and ask for Hassan; you can’t miss him with his shaved head and flaming red goatee. He speaks very little English and beware, he will tell you that the waves are pumping everyday, even when they are not. You should pay 500 Kenyan Shillings (roughly seven Aussie dollars) for a roundtrip ride out on his sailboat. Oh, and the little secret that we learned our last day surfing it, its much much better about an hour before dead low tide. Say hi to the locals for us! The truth of the matter is, I hate kayaking. Dan hates kayaking and even Danny Blackwell will admit that he would rather be surfing. So why go so far, pay so much, work so hard to score average waves? It’s simply because there is much more to Indonesia than just perfect waves, there is much more to Hawaii than big heavy powerful barrels, there is much more to Mexico than deserted perfect right-hand point breaks, and there is much more to Africa than J-Bay. So the next time you’re deciding where to take your next surf trip, consider what other gifts the country might offer. Surf trips can be more than just sitting in a surf camp, eating pizza and cheeseburgers, drinking beers and sitting and bitching for days about the crowds and the waves and how there’s better surf where you’re from. Sometimes it can be a life changing experience. In the end, we raised over $16,000 Aussie dollars for three charities; Mission in Action based in Kenya, Hands of Help based in Uganda, and Global Alliance for Africa based out of Tanzania. We braved class V rapids on the Nile, spent three days amongst lions, cheetahs, leopards, zebras, elephants and giraffes, and saw a part of the world extremely different and yet not so far off from ours. Not to mention the many sessions with not another surfer in sight. Oh, and as for the parasitic worms living in my liver, I just swallowed the pills that will eliminate ’em from my body. The only souvenirs I’ll be keeping from this trip are priceless memories.
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Picture-postcard stuff, and judging by that shadow in the foreground, the mobile reception’s pretty good too. pic: shieldsy
surreal aquas, indian affinity, dhoni designs, high speed lines and low-lying atolls.. asl travel bible 068
maldives
region4
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time in transit
surf season stats
perfect match
culture conscious
open door
in the air: Oz to Singapore/KL 7-9hrs Singapore/KL to Malé 3-5hrs once in malé: Met on arrival by surf guide, short transfer to Ocean Dancer anchored in the harbour near the airport where you’ll stay overnight before steaming one hour out to the surf the next morn.
prime time: July to October in season: March to June don’t bother: November to February
Of the dozen staff, 70% are locals. Only the skipper surfs, which means all the more waves for you. 30% of customers are return business and that number’s always on the rise.
The Maldives is a Muslim region, so respect is needed when visiting the mainland in terms of being covered (women especially). No consumption of booze on land either.
Anyone who wants to live a life of luxury really and it’s no surprise that significant others and nonsurfers are happy to tag along and make up 40% of guests.
get your grits
sustainable shredding
what’s new?
It ain’t just the accommodations that are five-star, this floating fairy tale will take your tastebuds’ breath away too. As well as a great variety of dishes, many with an especially French touch, the bar can cater for the finest booze connoisseur, with a full wine list, French champagne and plenty of hard liquor from whiskey to cognac.
Rather than providing bottled water like so many charters, the OD crew has a water desalinator that produces clean drinking water from salt water. No need for plastic here.
As if this glorious vessel wasn’t pimped out enough, they’ve recently added new deck furniture, luxury cutleries, new decoration in the living room and a shiny new tender boat (a 52 footer!)
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region4 maldives
ocean dancer
Spoil yourself. Two simple words that so aptly describe what you can expect from seven days on Ocean Dancer, the floating Ritz Carlton of the Maldivian seas. Only problem is you’re probably not going to want to get off. Ever. The stats Ocean Dancer did its first charter back in 2006, under the captaincy of owner David Mesnard, and is renowned as the best boat in the region. OD operates in the Malé atolls in the Maldives and with up to 10 different setups at your fingertips, you won’t get bored. Dave has worked in the Maldives for over 20 years now (mostly in the dive business), and knows the area as well as anyone.
Tailor-made for you? You’re looking for a little luxury and have a definite taste for the finer things in life. Gone are your days of roughing it on your wave-chasing adventures; you expect to have your cake and eat it to, scoring shreddable waves in tropical paradise, while living in five-star comfort. Well climb aboard!
Gimme the basics, real quick Did someone say five star? Now you’re talkin’! The Ocean Dancer is a biggun’ and can house up to 14 guests (max of 12 surfers allowed), all in glorious, air-conditioned double staterooms with ensuite bathrooms. This, friends, is living.
bragging rights Seems like everyone is a champion of something on board, with past guests including the likes of Pat Rafter, Suzie O’Neill and any number of surf teams, the Quiksilver camp being the most recent mob to roll through.
extra action
expedition essentials
Snorkelling, SUPs and fishing are popular, and with Dave’s previous diving experience combined with the Maldives crystal clear water, there’s a whole underwater world waiting for you. Speaking of extra: Ocean Dancer also goes to the South Atoll in November to February. Email info@ worldsurfaris.com for details.
hardware: It’s mostly fun waves rather than death-defying slabs in these here parts, so your usual short-board quiver should see you sorted. BYO ding repair kit too. non-surf items: Snorkel gear, iPod and a good book. medical: Evacuation is by speedboat (15mins away) to the hospital on Malé, flights from Malé if necessary. There’s a first aid kit on board for basic cuts and abrasions. Inoculations as per your GP’s advice.
5
of the best
waves you want to ride
Chickens In short? Long left that’s arguably the fastest wave in the North Malé atoll, holding swells of three-foot, to 10 foot, for up to 500m. Heaviness? 6/10 Fun? 10/10 Crowds? Boat anchors in the channel, 10 surfers max. Suits? Intermediate surfers and above. Cokes In short? Renowned right-hand point, the hollowest wave in the North Malé atoll and protected from the south winds. Heaviness? 8/10 Fun? 10/10 Crowds? Boat anchors in the channel, 10 surfers max. Suits? Intermediate surfers and above. Sultans In short? A more user-friendly right with a forgiving take-off that then reels down the line to an intense and wrapping end bowl. Heaviness? 5/10 Fun? 10/10 Crowds? Boat anchors in the channel, 10 surfers max. Suits? Intermediate surfers and above. Honkies In short? A super-speedy, down-the-line left, with a bending and hollow end section. Heaviness? 5/10 Fun? 10/10 Crowds? Boat anchors in the channel, 10 surfers max. Suits? Intermediate surfers and above.
where do I sign? World Surfaris are the exclusive worldwide surfing agent. Go to www. worldsurfaris.com or email info@ worldsurfaris.com. Seven nights stay costs $2750 AUD per person including all meals, transfers and your expert surf guide. (Excludes international airfares). All trips are seven days, but you can extend for another seven if there’s room. Rates can be reduced for group bookings.
Jailbreaks In short? Warm water JBay. This classic right-hander smokes down the line for up to 300m, with three distinct sections to belt to pieces, or sneak into the shade. Heaviness? 7/10 Fun? 10/10 Crowds? Boat anchors in the channel, can vary on the day. Suits? Intermediate surfers and above.
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time in transit
surf season stats
perfect match
culture conscious
open door
in the air: Oz to Singapore 7hrs Singapore to Male 4.5hrs
prime time: April/July/ August/September in season: March/May/ June/February very few waves: October/November/ December/January
With 14 staff, 80% of whom are indigenous, you’ll get the full Maldivian experience. Only 20% of staff are surfers, so they definitely don’t crowd out the line-up.
Guests are reminded that it’s a strict Muslim country so when visiting local islands, one should always cover up and never take any alcohol.
Anyone and everyone! As a general rule, 5% of guests are non-surfing guests, 5% of guests are grommets under 16 and 10% of guests are female surfers. Each year, the crew designate one trip for couples whereby they try to get a group together where they have non-surfer activities, and leave the surfers to go for it.
Central Atolls on the ground: Male to port 30mins Outer Atolls in the air: Male to Outer Atolls 1hr
get your grits
cast away
Feeding time is always awesome on the Nautilus One with a combo of Maldivian and western meals a plenty. Breakfast is usually a choice of eggs, omelette, toast and fruit, etc. Lunch and dinner are both buffet style with regulars including chicken, fish, beef, rice, pasta and veges. The on-board specialty – and always a favourite – is Maldivian night with a buffet of traditional food. They have San Miguel, on tap too, as well as all spirits, red and white wine and cocktails (booze is an extra cost).
The fishing is great. The crew are exceptional fishermen and seem to find the best spots for guests to pull in huge hauls. Most recently, one charter group caught four big Sailfish in one session.
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region4 maldives
LIQUID DESTINATION
All aboard the Nautilus One for a Maldivian experience with a difference. Liquid Destination will take you into the lesser-explored atolls of this exotic region, and make sure you return home with photos and footage to match (or nullify) all your tall tales of shredding success. Always the first boat to fully book, so get in quick! The stats
Tailor-made for you?
Gimme the basics, real quick
Liquid Destination is based in the Maldives, and frequents both the Central and Southern/Outer Atolls depending on the charter. They’ve been running the charter for four years now, on the glorious Nautilus One; truly one of the most comfortable and intricately designed boats in the Maldives. Louis Harris is the man managing the operation and his love for finding uncrowded Maldivian gems is unrivalled.
You’re dedicated to heading away from the sheep-ship masses and getting pitted in uncrowded waves. That said, at the end of your trip you wouldn’t mind taking home a few reminders of the good times. A DVD perhaps, to re-live the memories over and over and to stoke the fire for your next trip.
LD offers 10, 11 or 14 night trips, with a max of 12 guests on the boat. Accommodation is in eight cabins, three with double beds, two with single beds and three with bunks (bottom bunks are double beds). All rooms have ensuites and hot showers, as well as aircon. There’s a telephone, Internet, TVs, DVDs, a 40-foot Dhoni for fishing, and also a 12-foot tender for running around in.
bragging rights They’ve had their fair share of professional longboarders, and female shortboard shredders grace their deck and waves, but their specialty is getting everyday punters into the waves of their lives and documenting it for ’em. Louis reckons it’s funny that more shortboard pros don’t venture up, as they regularly see empty lineups at six-to-eight foot. He’s not complaining, mind you.
extra action
expedition essentials
The lads on board are heavily into surf photography and video, providing many guys who have never seen themselves surfing with photos and a full-blown surf movie of their trip. They’ve just upgraded with a heap of new gear too, so there’s no place for the camera shy. Snorkelling and SUPs are a given and guests often enjoy a banquet on the beach of a deserted island. The crew will even rip out the bongos if you’re lucky.
hardware: Two short boards exactly the same as you usually ride (a back-up in case of breakage) and one fun board for something different to ride, or a bigger wave board if you’re not comfortable on your normal short board in big stuff. non-surf items: iPod, snorkelling gear and a fishing rod. medical: Each island/break has a doctor on it and in extreme cases, seaplane evacuation is on hand at all times. There’s a comprehensive first aid kit on-board. No inoculations are mandatory, although tetanus is often a good idea.
5
of the best
waves you want to ride
(name censored) In short? One of the best lefts in the island chain when the swell is up. Take off, pull in and stall in the barrel the whole way. The boat moors in the channel. Heaviness? 7/10 Fun level? 10/10 Crowds? Usually just charter guests. Suits? Intermediate to advanced level surfers. Resorts In short? Right-hander with a great barrel. No barrel dodgers allowed! Boat moors in the channel. Heaviness? 6/10 Fun Level? 10/10 Crowds? Usually just charter guests. Suits? Intermediate to advanced level surfers who can ride ze barrel. Beacons In short? Right-hander that’s considered the heaviest wave in the Maldives on its day. Boat moors in the channel. Heaviness? 8/10 Fun Level? 8/10 Crowds? Usually just charter guests, with maybe one other boat. Suits? Intermediate to advanced level surfers.
sustainable shredding
where do I sign?
All rubbish is stored on board and taken back to port.
Booking is simple. There’s a booking form on the website in the “Book Now” section on www.liquiddestination.com. Cost is $4600 for 10 nights, and includes all flights, boat accom, etc. The only extra cost is your bar bill. Remember, book early homies.
No Names In short? Incredibly long, fun and rippable right located a fair way south, away from the crowds. One of the longest waves in the Maldives. Boat moors in the channel. Heaviness? 8/10 Fun Level? 9/10 Crowds? Usually just charter guests. Suits? Intermediate to advanced level surfers. Chickens In short? Long, fast, excellent yet challenging left, with two sections. Boat moors in the channel. Heaviness? 7/10 Fun Level? 8/10 Crowds? Up to 25 surfers occasionally, but drastically reduced when it gets bigger. Suits. Intermediate to advanced level surfers.
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time in transit
surf season stats
perfect match
culture conscious
open door
in the air: Oz to Singapore 7hrs Singapore to Male 4hrs on the water: Speedboat transfer to resort 45mins
prime time: July/August/ September/October in season: April/May/ June/November can get waves: December/January/ February/March
It’s a big ’ol place, with over 300 staff, many hailing from the local island Guraidoo as well as other parts of the Maldives. There are only about three surfers that work there (blowing it!) and the resort has been running for three years now, with plenty of regular return business.
The Maldives is a strict Muslim country and alcohol is prohibited outside of the resorts and charter boats.
Kandooma is ideal for partners and families with about 10% of guests being children under 16 and 50% of guests being female, or female surfers.
get your grits
sustainable shredding
cast away
included in the cost
There are four food restaurants serving up a variety of buffets and a la carte menus daily, not to mention great coffee in the morn. There’s also a BBQ option at your villa, which is a special way to enjoy a private dinner. The food and BBQ are delivered and set up at your villa for you to cook yourself lobster, crabs, prawns, steak and many more wonderful options. There are all-inclusive packages, or you can just order your food and beverages as you go. Needless to say there’s a huge range of booze available too.
KR has a water plant on the island, which provides unlimited free water.
Sport fishing is available and you can catch Wahoo, Sailfish and Marlin.
Return speedboat transfers to/from Male Airport and resort. Welcome drink on arrival. Daily buffet breakfast. Free use of snorkel gear and kayaks Complimentary snorkel trip. Service charge, Maldives GST and Maldives Bed tax.
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region4 maldives
holiday inn KANDOOMA RESORT Luxury land-based living in the Maldives is what it is. And with waves to suit everyone – many within spitting distance – you’ll be calling Kandooma your home away from home in no time. This place is bangin’! The stats Kandooma Island is 13 hectares of resort goodness, located two thirds of the way down the southeastern edge of the South Male Atoll, and only a 45-minute speedboat ride from the capital of Male. The property is owned and was built by HPL (Hotel Properties Limited, a Singapore based property company), and has been running for three years now.
Tailor-made for you? You’re looking for the vacation version of MTV’s Pimp My Ride (sans Xzibit and hair braids). Crystal clear water, five-star resort living (without the price tag) and everything that comes with it, PLUS cracking waves. You may even bring along your significant other for the ride (if she’s lucky!) It’s all here waiting for you.
Gimme the basics, real quick The resort has 160 villas in four main categories; Beach and Garden villas, Duplex villas, Family villas and Water villas. The Perfect Wave runs the surf program at Kandooma and with their expert Aussie surf guide on hand, you’re certain to be scoring the best waves on offer. Kandooma has beautiful white-sand beaches around a third of the island, or there are always the sunloungers around the pool.
bragging rights The biggest swell that had hit the Maldives in known history was on 22 July 2010 and there were only 12 surfers on the island. For three-to-four days everybody had their fill of four-to-eight-foot waves at Kandooma and Tucky Joes. On the biggest day of the swell Kandooma was peaking at 10-to-12-feet and maxing the place out, with waves taking out a row of bungalows; that’s the closest accommodation to take off zone in the world that we know of!
extra action
expedition essentials
There’s a near-endless list of water sports on offer, including snorkelling, fishing, dolphin trips, diving, water-skiing, wakeboarding, windsurfing, catamarans and many different power boats for all variety of activities. There’s also a gym, a pool, tennis and computers. The local village trip to Guraidoo Island is great way to see how the local people live and a trip to the capital Male is always interesting.
hardware: Fish for the smaller days, hybrid shortboard and a spare for breakages. non-surf items: Camera, partner/wife and credit card. medical: Male hospital is only 45 minutes away by speedboat and there is an in-house doctor on hand. There are no inoculations necessary or required.
5
of the best
waves you want to ride
Kandooma Right In short? Closest wave to the resort, just a short paddle from camp. You’ll be the first on it and last off it everyday. Heaviness? 7/10 (when above 4ft) Fun? 8/10 Crowds? 5 to 10 people max. Suits: Intermediate surfers. Rip Tides In short? Fun right for all levels of surfers, and only a 10-minute Dhoni ride from the resort. Heaviness? 5/10 Fun? 8/10 Crowds? 8 to 12 people max. Suits? Intermediate surfers and above. Foxy’s/Natives In short? A challenging left-hander only a 10-minute Dhoni ride from the resort. Heaviness? 7/10 Fun? 7/10 Crowds? 5 to 10 people max. Suits? Intermediate to advanced surfers. Outside Quarters In-short? A playful right-hander for all levels of surfer, 30-minute Dhoni ride from camp. Heaviness? 2/10 Fun? 10/10 Crowds? 5 to 10 people max. Suits? Beginners and longboarders.
where do I sign? Packages are available through The Perfect Wave www.theperfectwave.com.au. Seven nights in a beach villa (twin share and including flight) will cost you $2275 per person (based on two persons). All bookings are totally flexible and can be extended for as long as there is availability.
Tucky Joes In-short? Another challenging left that’s a 40-minute Dhoni ride from the resort. Heaviness? 7/10 (when above 4ft) Fun level? 8/10 Crowds? 10-to-15 people max. Suits? Intermediate to advanced surfers and above.
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maldives
region4
directory
pic: shieldsy
OPERATOR LOCATION AGENT “Bolero” of the Grand Safari Atoll Adventures Carpe Vita Charter Chaaya Island Dhonveli Club Med Kani Resort Cola’s Surf Camp Four Seasons Resort Kuda Huraa H.I Kandooma Resort Hariyana Horizon Surf Charters Hudhuranfushi/Lohifushi Liquid Destinations Ocean Dancer luxury charters Paradise Island Resort Sunset Queen Cobia Charter Handhu Charters Haira Charter Hamathi Charter Manta charters Theia Blue Shark
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Maldives Maldives Maldives Maldives Maldives Maldives Maldives Maldives Maldives Maldives Maldives Maldives Maldives Maldives Maldives Maldives Maldives Maldives Maldives Maldives Maldives Maldives
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worldsurfaris.com theperfectwave.com.au surftravel.com.au atolltravel.com.au freelinesurf.com surftheearth.com.au
World Surfaris The Perfect Wave Surf Travel Company Atoll Travel Freeline Indonesian Surf Adventures Surf The Earth Go Tours
disclaimer: This list is intended to showcase all known operators in select regions and match them with reputable Australian agents that represent them. It was compiled in consultation with major Australian agents, and to the best of our ability and knowledge. It is as accurate as possible at the time of going to press (March 2011) and does not purport to be a complete final representation of all operators and all agents in all regions at any time. But it’s a bloody great source of reference and a useful starting point. Suggestion: Check the directory on the Travel Bible mini site located on www.surfinglife.com.au for direct links and up-to-date contact info. Request: If you are a reputable operator or agent and have been left out of this directory, send your details and credentials for consideration in next year’s edition to craig@morrisonmedia.com.au
Gravelle Surfboards custom shapes for Indo …
Carrick Robinson
– 11 seasons in the Mentawais, Navistar Skipper chooses Gravelle Surfboards Contact: Paul Gravelle 1800 061 248 – www.gravellesurfboards.com Want to get barreled in Indo contact – www.navistar-surf.com
GravelleSurfboards TMJan10.indd 1
10/11/2009 3:35:29 P
Andaman Sea
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